W W W. C A L I B R E M A G A Z I N E . C O M
TUDOR
VOLUME 16 ISSUE 133 / JUL - SEP 2021
B L A C K B AY F I F T Y ‑ E I G H T B R O N Z E
Bronze Matters Tudor now ships the Black Bay 58 bronze with a bronze bracelet too!
PHP275
ISSN 1908-4994
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Minutes July-September 2021
Editor's words
W
e like the unexpected. Funnily enough, Tudor has been teaching us to expect the unexpected from them. Some things would seem like obvious directions, such as building on successes and so on. The boutique edition bronze for example, a clear winner when we talked about it even before the launch. But as a boutique edition? And not one tied to only one boutique, so that’s good. Or their silver cased watch? The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925? Unexpected, but the watch of the (virtual) show. That’s who Tudor is nowadays, they can take chances where the more conservative brands (or brand) cannot. That is why, over the years when there was a Baselworld (sigh) we would go to see what we would be surprised with at Tudor. Parachute straps? Different materials? A nod to the past or a look to the future? Their Ceramic is interesting, but not just because it is ceramic. It has a look that does stand out, and it has a movement that is making a statement about where they think the future will be going. Where is the future going, by the way? There is a whole wave of enthusiasm going to the smaller brands and unknown independents. Which is great. There is excitement about pieces that are not just about price and exclusivity and bragging rights. People are learning about finishes, and case design, and engraving and more. They are making connections with new or unknown watchmakers and artisans. We have been told that younger buyers care about authenticity and connection past what the brands just say. And we are now seeing that in watches. All this means is that there is renewed interest in what we have loved for a very very long time. Which is definitely yet another step in the right direction.
" W H E R E I S T H E F U T U R E G O I N G , B Y T H E WAY ? T H E R E I S A W H O L E WAV E O F E N T H U S I A S M GOING TO THE SMALLER BRANDS A N D U N K N OW N I N D E P E N D E N T S . W H I C H I S G R E AT. "
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief
carsandcalibres
4 www.calibremagazine.com
Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker
Longines boutique 2F SM Mega Fashion Hall SM Megamall Mandaluyong City
The Longines Legend Diver Watch
July-September 2021
Contents Cover Watch
C OV E R WAT C H Tudor
BLACK BAY 58 BRONZE
30
Tudor
The Pursuit of Imperfection
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July-September 2021
Contents Features
38
A. Lange & Söhne
Craftsmanship in the extreme
42
Bvlgari
Another year, another world record
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July-September 2021
Contents Features
46
Rolex
Presenting a face from outer space
50
Patek Philippe
Ensures the proliferation of tradition
56
Chopard
Is sleek and contemporary in gray
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July-September 2021
Contents Features
60
Panerai
Harboring designs from 1936
64
Hublot
Turquoise keeps it fresh
68
Carl F. Bucherer
Is truly the expert at peripherals
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July-September 2021
Contents Features
72
TAG Heuer
Satisfy your inner child
76
Oris
An Aquis for the Wadden Sea
80
Ulysse Nardin
Breaks the sound barrier
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July-September 2021
Contents Features
84
Hermès
Presents a man’s watch with a feminine touch
88
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Métiers Rares handiwork on display
92
Bremont
Adds an addendum to the pilot’s watch story
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July-September 2021
Contents Regulars
04
Minutes
Carl S. Cunanan
20
Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas
22
Back to Basics
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
24
Vintage Explorer Jose Martin V. Ursúa
26
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World
96
Timeframe
Pictures in time as we travel the world
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Editor-In-Chief
Carl S. Cunanan Executive Editor Senior Editor
Joseph Peter C. Calimbas
Hernan C. Mapua
Collections Editor Associate Editor
Jason S. Ang
Kit O. Payumo
Senior Staff Writer
Alberto E. Casal
Editor-at-Large
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Design Director
Charie L. Biaden
Senior Designer
Mark David A. See
Designer
Mary Ann E. Marcelo
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc.
Contributing Writers
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Katherine S. Cunanan, Jose Martin V. Ursúa,
Salcedo Village, Makati City 1227 Philippines
Leonard Vincent L. Ho, Edrich Santos & Dominique O. Cerqueda
Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 URL: www.calibremagazine.com
Contributing Photographer
Keith Sundiang
Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. #5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City
Vice President for Advertising Sales
Tel: (+632) 7945-5089
Mayette L. Asis Advertising Manager
Leslie G. Maxilom
Advertising Traffic Manager
Mary Jane O. Salazar Copyright © 2021
Publisher
The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties,
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Managing Director Directors
guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.
Carl S. Cunanan
Carl S. Cunanan, Kevin C. Limjoco,
Michael L. Lhuiller & Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Senior Accountant
Credit and Collection Officer Legal Counsel
FOLLOW AND VISIT US ONLINE!
Merline B. Urdas Mary Ann M. Benito
Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office
Calibre Magazine PH
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@calibremagazineph
@calibremagazineph
@calibremagph
Calibre 133
Tempus Incognitum July-September 2021
Picking Up the Pieces
A
couple of months back, I got an email from Baselworld’s Press Service that after a two-year hiatus, they are coming back in early 2022 albeit very different from the biggest watch and jewelry fair we have been so familiar with. From 1917-2019, it was the biggest watch fair in the world with attendance peaking in 2014. That year, 150,000 people attended the fair. About 500 watchmakers ranging from one-man operations to the titans of the watchmaking industry presented their novelties to the media and ordinary watch enthusiast who flew in from the four corners of the world. Us included. 2014 was actually the seventh Baselworld I had attended. I would attend three more succeeding shows before I made way for other people in our team to take my slot. Little did I
know that there would only be 2 more shows before the MCH Group would shutter Baselworld down indefinitely. It was a combination of several main attractions leaving one by one and ultimately the pandemic that made Baselworld no longer viable for Brands, visitors and the media alike to attend. It had become too big for its own good. The organizers had planned to put up a smaller, more “intimate” show this year but with the pandemic still raging on, that plan was eventually scrapped. Along with other Baselworld veterans, we had thought that the final footnote to an epic show was already put in print. Then the email with the subject heading Baselworld is Back pops up in my inbox. Just like a Phoenix rising out of its own ashes, the show is slated to be held next year BUT in a very different guise. As stated in the email and I quote, “Instead of
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
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focusing on the spectacular appearance of luxury brands in the watch, jewellery and gemstone sector, the new BASELWORLD will primarily be a B2B platform in the mid-range luxury segment. The future concept combines trends in the experience marketing market with the needs of the entire community in the mid- and highend segment of the watch, jewellery and gemstone industry.” A pop-up version is actually taking place at the time I am writing this with ten brands exhibiting at the Geneva Watch Days probably to try out how the new concept works. That of a meeting place for an exchange of ideas and business, an opportunity to make network connections. Personally, this sounds more like an incubator to me. Very far from what Baselworld was. Maybe a pigeon rose from the Phoenix’s ashes.
Calibre 133
Back to Basics July-September 2021
Of Trends And Preferences Going beyond the hype
W
hen you’ve been around for a certain number of years, you start to see that life isn’t just a straight line all the time. There is a popular saying that goes, “the only thing constant in life is change.” However, I don’t think this is entirely true. Culture, art, and fashion can be cyclical at times. This is certainly true for watches. Just like music or any other art form, the watch industry also has its own trends and popular styling cues at any given time. A couple of years ago, massive watches with sizes of 45mm and above were immensely popular. Panerai was at the peak of its popularity, and every upstart micro-brand would borrow inspiration from this formerly obscure Italian military watch. Even some well-established watch brands would come out with new models
that catered to this insatiable demand for oversized watches. After several years of people clamoring for everything big, this trend reached its saturation point and later reversed itself. People eventually started to look for more reasonably/classically sized watches appropriate to their respective wrist sizes. Aside from this size correction, vintage styled models also caught steam and entered the consciousness of the mainstream market as venerable watch brands raided their archives for inspiration for their next release. Designs that were in vogue decades ago were again in demand and given a new lease on life. At times, certain colors would dominate the latest models for a particular year. When I was in Baselworld a few years ago, blue was the color of choice for many of the biggest brands present there. This year, green seems to reign supreme as
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large
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every watch brand of note has a new green colored model in their catalogue for 2021. The use of alternative materials for watch cases — such as bronze — already had its day in the sun in the past. However, it's made a comeback in recent years and has gained even more acceptance from the watch community than ever before. With watch trends changing on a regular basis, how does a person determine if one should get into it or not? Let’s not complicate things — if you really like it, buy it. Just try to imagine yourself wearing that watch 5, 10 years from now. If you still see yourself wearing it even after the novelty has worn off, then it’s probably for you. At the end of the day, your watch is a reflection of your personal preference and style. Trends come and go, yet each of us will most likely gravitate to those that fit us best.
Calibre 133
Vintage Explorer July-September 2021
Skeletons in the Closet
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or how long must a man account for his past? While reading about the life of watchmaker Helmut Sinn, I came across concerns in watch forums about his wartime record. The question posed was blunt: “Was Helmut Sinn a Nazi?” Furthermore, the poster said that if the answer was yes, and even if Sinn later disavowed Nazism, he would still be uncomfortable with Sinn Watches. This line of thinking is becoming increasingly common: As a society, we are losing the ability to forgive past transgressions, regardless of the circumstances. As it turns out, the wartime career of Helmut Sinn was remarkably clean for a young man who joined the Luftwaffe in 1936. His desire to fly was sparked by the sight of French pilots, garrisoned near his childhood home in occupied Rhineland. First training with gliders, he would later become an observation and transport pilot, deploying to theatres like northern France, the Balkans, and the Eastern Front. Sinn flew reconnaissance aircraft like the Ju 88 and Fw 189, as well as the venerable workhorse Ju 52, one of which he would crash in Russia. Due to injuries sustained, Sinn would then become a flight instructor for the remainder of the war, attaining the rank of Oberfeldwebel (roughly Sergeant). It should be noted that Sinn, the future watchmaker, is often confused with the
identically-named Oberleutnant Helmut Sinn, who would receive the Knight’s Cross and the Luftwaffe Honor Goblet. This higher-ranked and more decorated Sinn died in 1988, whereas “our” Helmut was with us until 2018. Perhaps it is this mistaken identity, and the apparent contradiction between prestigious awards and claims of limited combat experience, that stokes curiosity about Sinn’s record. But let us pretend that “our” Helmut Sinn had flown a Messerschmitt into combat, escorting the Heinkel bombers that rained death on England, and downing Soviet pilots in the east. Would he be deserving of criticism for following legitimate orders of war? It should come as no surprise that most of this backlash is focused on Germany. The Third Reich is, after all, considered the primary antagonist of World War 2, and the collective guilt of post-war Germans persists to this day. However, years before the blitzkrieg into Poland, Japan had already invaded China, where it committed many atrocities. Has this fact made any Asian watch collector reconsider buying from Seiko, who supplied the Imperial Japanese military? There is also little stigma associated with Soviet watches like Poljot or Vostok, despite the horrific acts of the communist regime. It is also not difficult to find fault with the other Allies. This is not a moral relativist argument that all nations are equally bad. Rather it is the recognition that every
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
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nation/company/individual has skeletons in its closet. What we must do is judge them as they are today, including how they’ve addressed said skeletons. In a previous column, I discussed Hans Wilsdorf and the remarkable stance that he took alongside the Allies in World War 2. Unlike other Swiss companies, Rolex would not deal with the Axis; in fact, it publicly denounced its tyranny in advertisements. I admire Mr. Wilsdorf for his conviction and humanity, but does that feeling extend to Rolex and its management today? Of course not. Conversely, I would not chastise Swiss watchmakers that provided watches to both sides of the war, per the national policy of neutrality. Considering none of its employees were alive back then, anyone refusing to buy an IWC today for filling orders from Nazi Germany would be nursing quite the grudge (but within his rights to do so). It is dangerous to criticize the past using the morals of the present, just as it is foolish to condemn a company today for decisions made by its past management. Judge them on a case-by-case basis, then buy or don’t buy what you want. Most importantly, do not allow anyone — whether it’s a company’s critics or its own marketing people — to rewrite history now considered problematic.
July-September 2021
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
CARTIER
SOLID AS A TANK
Cartier elegance embodied
F
or the casually uninitiated, the Cartier Santos and the Cartier Tank are often mistaken as the same watch. Both are rectangular in shape, and both are icons of elegance and design. Both feature the same type of Roman numerals, and the same squared-off minute tracks that emanate from the center. Most importantly, both models were designed by Louis Cartier, with both watches boasting deep historical significance.
The Santos is renowned for being the first purpose-built tool watch designed specifically for Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904 making it the first known pilot’s watch; while the first Cartier Tank was presented as a victory watch to American general John Pershing in 1918. Tracing its design to the most unlikely of influences, the Tank was inspired by the small but mighty Renault FT-17, a French manufactured tank highly regarded as the first tank to house its weapon in a fully rotating turret during the first World War. But for all its elegance, the Santos is still a tool watch at its core, which it revels in with a larger size, squared off proportions and purposeful 8 screws on its bezel. With its signature parallel brancards inspired by a tank when viewed for above, on the other
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hand, the Tank has surprisingly nary a trace of that utilitarism, and expounds on this with infinitely slighter, and more elegant proportions, as well as a more sensual rectangular shape, making both watches as different as night and day. Indeed, many speculate that Louie Cartier designed the Tank as a reaction to the boldly square Cartier Santos, and proceeded to endow the Tank with signature Cartier flourishes. The watch of artistic royalty as well as actual royalty, the Cartier Tank has been unstoppable over the years, and has been seen on the wrists of many prominent individuals including movie stars Clark Gable and Fred Astaire. The Tank Cintrée even made its movie debut in 1926 when Rudolph Valentino insisted on wearing his Tank in his final film, The Son of the Sheik. Other fans of the Tank include Princess Diana, and First Ladies Michelle Obama and Jackie Kennedy whose Tank Ordinaire was gifted to her by her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw “Stas” Radziwill in 1962, and would later break the record for the most expensive Cartier Tank ever auctioned, selling for $379,500.00 in June of 2017. Even Andy Warhol was inseparable with his Tank, who wore it not for its intended purpose but for the statement it made. “I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time,” Warhol is famous for saying. “Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear.” 1976 saw the debut of Les Must de Cartier, a more accessible line that, for many, opened the door to the previously unattainable Cartier experience. Indeed, with its colorful lacquered dials sans railway track and Roman numerals, the Cartier Must de Tank was an instant best seller, and to say that sales were extraordinary is an understatement, with many of the original models remaining collectible to this day often selling for more than $1,000.00. “The Must watches are part of the Maison’s heritage and legend,” says Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage at Cartier. “They have withstood the test of time thanks to their instantly recognizable style, but also their excellent craftsmanship, which Cartier applies to all its creations right down to the smallest detail.”
Thus, for 2021, the Cartier Design Studio has reworked Cartier’s classic design by taking direct inspiration from the Tank Louis Cartier to create the new Tank Must, Cartier’s latest essential timepiece that stays faithful to the historic model. The new Tank Must, then, comes in an extra-large model with the 1847 MC manufacture automatic mechanical movement, and large and small models with quartz movements. All feature the signature rounded brancards, revisited dial proportions, precious pearled cabochon winding crowns, interchangeable steel bracelets with curved links, and the return
of a traditional ardillon buckle on the black grained leather strap versions. Further the large and small models also come with cases set with brilliant-cut diamonds: 0.48ct for the former, and 0.39ct for the latter, and can be fitted with optional non-animal leather straps composed of 40% plant matter (apples) in black, blue and light green. Most importantly, these Tank Must quartz models can also be equipped with the latest photovoltaic dials. Two years in development at the Cartier Manufacture at La Chauxde-Fonds, the photovoltaic principle uses the particular aesthetic of the Tank dial
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via the delicate and invisible perforation of the Roman numerals. These openings allow solar energy to energize the SolarBeat movement, which has an average lifespan of 16 years freeing the user from ever changing the batteries in that time. The monochrome versions of the 1980s also make a comeback with three large models that have been freed from traditional watchmaking codes, and exude, instead, elegant simplicity. Colored in hues indelible with the Cartier DNA, these red, blue, and green steel watches once again eschew traditional Roman numerals and “railway” minute tracks in favor of colored minimalist dials with matching straps for the full chromatic look. All three models boast autonomy of at least 8 years with the latest high-efficiency quartz movements. Last but not least, is the reintroduction of the Tank Louis Cartier. Designed and introduced in 1917, the original Tank was reworked by Louie Cartier in 1922 to feature an elongated case, softer edges and refined brancards. This year, the Tank L.C. (Louis Cartier) cultivates its timeless elegance in color, specifically in the blue and red that are so indelible to Cartier’s DNA. These large size models are powered by the manually-wound 1917 MC Manufacture movement, and feature cases in 18K yellow gold for the red model, and 18K pink gold for the blue version. Both models also feature gold detailed dials with matching colored highlights to enhance their graphic intensity, as well as matching colored alligator leather straps. The Cartier Tank is an iconic masterpiece that has been in production far longer than most other watches have been. It is an original design tour de force that, to this day, manages to marry its pure and precise design with contemporary principles. And with this latest Must collection, the Cartier Tank is assured of having a size, style, and price point for… well, for everyone! Best of all, to celebrate the launch of these new Tank interpretations in 2021, the Maison is offering limited complementary maintenance and repair service (subject to availability, of course) to any owner of the Tank watch, regardless of the year it was created. Cartier is located at Greenbelt 4; Rustan’s Shangri-La; and Solaire Resorts and Casino.
The Wind-Up
An aerial view of Sáo Jorge Island in the Azores. The Azores Archipelago has been named a new 'Hope Spot' by Mission Blue. © Greg Lecoeur
ROLEX
MISSION BLUE
Fighting to heal our oceans.
R
olex founder Hans Wilsdorf always believed that the world is like a living laboratory. From the 1930s, he began to use it as a testing ground for his Oyster Perpetual watches, sending them to the most extreme locations, supporting explorers who ventured into the far reaches of the globe, braving the unknown. But the word “perpetual’ isn’t just a stamp on a dial. It represents the vision and values of Hans Wilsdorf of continually seeking excellence in making watches, and to break boundaries and help build a better world. Rolex’s Perpetual Planet initiative helps key organisations and individuals find solutions to environmental challenges. In 2014, Rolex partnered with Mission Blue. Its aim is to create a global network of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) called Hope Spots. These are ecologically
important areas of the oceans considered vital to the preservation of species or places where communities rely on a healthy marine environment to survive. Mission Blue’s goal is to help protect 30 percent of the oceans by 2030. With the support of Rolex, Mission Blue is trying to ensure that Marine ecosystems in all their teeming diversity are not lost to future generations. Since 2009, more than 130 Hope Spots have been recognised around the world. Mission Blue now works directly with communities in more than 69
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countries to restore and protect their unique ocean environments. It implements communications campaigns through documentaries, social media, traditional media and tools. The latest designated Hope Spot is the Azores. The islands of the Azores harbour an important deep-sea ecosystem that attracts 25 species of cetaceans such as whales and porpoises that find rich feeding grounds among the archipelago’s concealed seamounts. Hundreds of species of fish, along with coral gardens and sponges, also thrive in the warmer waters delivered via a branch
July-September 2021
During the summer, mobula rays gather around the Princess Alice seamount situated 45 miles from Faial Island. © Greg Lecoeur
A humpback whale with the city of Horta in the background. Whales find rich feeding grounds in the area's concealed seamounts. © Nuno Sá - Atlantic Ridge productions
Legendary oceanographer Sylvia Earle, Founder of Mission Blue, photographed in the Azores. © Rolex/Reto Albertalli
of the Gulf Stream. This rich ecosystem is under pressure from human activities including fishing, coastal construction, marine transport, and agriculture. Sylvia Earle, President and Co-Chairman of Mission Blue said: “The Azores Archipelago was named a Hope Spot in recognition of the collaborative efforts of the government, University of Azores, organisations, and community members. Together, they are working to achieve increased marine protection and a growing comprehensive network of protected areas that extend from the surface of the sea all
the way down to the deep sea floor.” Rolex is also helping to protect the oceans through a variety of partnerships and grants. It has also supported individual expeditions such as Deepsea Under The Pole by Rolex in 2010 and Under the Pole III in 2017. Explorations are underway to improve understanding of climate equilibrium, bioflourescence, and the mesophytic coral ecosystems that exist between 30 and 150 meters, in addition to underwater exploration techniques. Please visit Rolex.org to learn more about Rolex's Perpetual Planet initiative.
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A blue shark in the waters off of the Princess Alice Bank, a seamount southwest of Faial Island in the Azores Archipelago. The archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean was recently named a 'Hope Spot'. © Greg Lecoeur
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C OV E R WAT C H Tudor
BLACK BAY 58 BRONZE
TUDOR
BLACK
B AY
FIFTY-EIGHT
BRONZE
THE PURSUIT OF
IMPERFECTION Wo rd s b y
A
JOSE MARTIN V. URSÚA
t the time of this article’s writing, the 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan have just ended. These games will long be remembered by the Philippines, not only for its one-year delay due to COVID-19, but also for yielding the country’s first gold medal, to Staff Sergeant Hidilyn Diaz for weightlifting. Tokyo 2020 also resulted in the Philippines’ highest-ever medal count, thanks to two silvers and one bronze. Gold and silver are always in demand, and appropriate for the most sought-after medals. But in the modern age, one hardly ever thinks about bronze unless a hunk of it is attached to a ribbon and awarded to the athlete on the podium’s lowest step. Watch enthusiasts are an uncommon bunch, and for us a new Bronze Age began around one decade ago. In 2011, Panerai unveiled its Submersible 1950 Bronzo (PAM 382), a 47mm hulk of a diver made of a metal that was both novel and oddly appropriate to the design’s nautical origins. It must be noted that the first bronze watch on record is Gérald
Genta’s Gefica Safari from 1984, though this quartz-powered oddity is largely forgotten today. In 2006, Anonimo released its own bronze watches that similarly failed to spark a metallic revolution. Thanks to Panerai, the appeal of untreated bronze was immediately apparent to visitors at SIHH 2011, who noted the patina that rapidly formed on the Bronzo’s surface. Today, nearly all of the major brands carry a bronze watch, including Oris, IWC, TAG Heuer, Longines, and many others. Tudor first dipped its toe into bronze waters in 2016, with its Heritage Black Bay. Since its introduction in 2012, the Black Bay has been a tremendous hit, thanks to its classic good looks, everyday usability, and great value. As with any popular watch, the next logical step was to offer as many variations as possible. 2016 saw the release of the full-size Black Bay Bronze, in 41mm. In 2019, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight was revealed, trimming 2mm from the diameter and becoming the Goldilocks of the BB family. Its size was just right for most wrists, and its appearance a handsome recollection of 1958's iconic “Big Crown” Submariners: The Tudor 7924 and the Rolex 6538 (as seen in Goldfinger). Unlike its conservative
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C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre Tudor
REVERSOBAY HYBRIS BLACK 58 MECHANICA BRONZE CALIBRE 185
big brother, Tudor has been refreshingly experimental, and just earlier this year produced a BB58 with a silver case. This new watch from Tudor is the unsurprisingly-named Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze (Ref. 79012M). It is 39mm in diameter, and it is made of bronze — both its case and, for the first time ever, its bracelet are cast from the brownish alloy. Unlike the stainless steel that is traditionally used on modern sport watches, the owner of a new BB58 Bronze will have much greater latitude in determining the look of his or her watch. Will it be regularly cleaned and polished like the fittings on a naval vessel, to preserve that as-new gleam? Or, more likely,
will it be allowed to patinate through intentional neglect and exposure to the elements? In fact, a cursory search of watch forums will yield many examples of people encouraging the formation of patina using eggs, urine, or any number of reagents. The results range from a dull, dark brown, oxidized sheen all the way to the bluishgreen of the Statue of Liberty. Tudor’s own materials refer to bronze as a “living” metal; while the wearer should be careful not to damage the watch with excessive wear, each BB58 Bronze will evolve into a reflection of the wrist that wears it. On its face, the BB58 Bronze features the 3/6/9 dial variant previously seen on other limited edition Black Bays. It is one of the highlights
of this particular model, as it melds the DNA of the legendary Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 with the round hour markers traditionally found on Submariners and previous Black Bays. The domed brown dial is very legible, even if it trades some of its readability for style, as it is shaded to lighten toward the center. The applied markers and Tudor’s familiar snowflake hands are in complementary gold. As with all current Black Bay models, the BB58 Bronze is powered by a chronometerrated movement. Beneath the dial is Calibre MT5400, part of the same family of smaller in-house movements that Tudor introduced in 2018. Like the larger MT5600 that preceded it,
“For the first time ever, both the case and the bracelet of the Black Bay are cast in bronze.”
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C OV E R WAT C H Tudor
BLACK BAY 58 BRONZE
this workhorse is distinguished by a generous 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification for accuracy. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph, which translates into a smooth 8bps sweep of the second hand. Although these movements are displayed on certain Tudor models, this one is hidden from view by a solid steel caseback, PVDcoated to match the rest of the watch’s color. Finally, Tudor has paired the BB58 Bronze with its vintage-styled, faux-riveted bracelet. But rather than simply remake the steel band in brushed bronze, Tudor is also introducing a newly-designed clasp that can be rapidly adjusted to five positions without tools. It will be curious to see how these all-bronze bracelets will fare in the long term, as they are the highest-wearing part of any wristwatch, and in constant contact
“Will it be regularly polished like fittings on a naval vessel, or allowed to patinate through intentional neglect?”
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with skin. As an alternative, Tudor also provides a brown jacquard fabric strap, along with a matching bronze buckle. It is often said that the perfect is the enemy of the good, and watch collectors can be uncompromising in their demands for perfection. How many times have we heard of new watch owners becoming suicidally despondent over the first scratch on their purchase? With watches like the BB58 Bronze, perhaps we can invert the old adage and consider the imperfect as a friend to the good. Happy is the watch enthusiast who seeks out wear-and-tear that makes a watch that is unique to him. As so many athletes discover at the Olympics, perfection is an exceedingly rare gift, but satisfaction can be had in the effort and the journey.
Features July-September 2021
Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
Feature
A. Lange & Söhne
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July-September 2021
Handwerkskunst Exquisite elegance from A. Lange & Söhne Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN
THE CABARET IS THE EPITOME OF EXTRAVAGANCE, THOUGH THE WORD ITSELF HAS MUCH HUMBLER BEGINNINGS. The word
originally meant a small space or a small room. Eventually the word became associated with theatrical entertainment, which was initially held in a small room and then in progressively larger rooms, with the audience being enthralled by music, dance, and drama. Things have evolved since then and now cabaret means amazing performances and lots of glamour. What is clear is this: when you say ‘cabaret,’ images of extravagance and luxury flow through your thoughts. And when you imagine luxury and elegance in timepieces, you automatically think of A. Lange & Söhne. The manufactory began with Ferdinand Adolph Lange thinking big in 1845. The pocket watches he created back then are still treasured and sought-after pieces to this day. The story of the brand took a turn for the worse after World War II, and the name was nearly lost forever. But — plot twist! — Walter Lange, great-grandson to Ferdinand Adolph, decided to re-launch the brand in 1990. It seems he inherited his great grandfather’s courage and love for timepieces too (lucky for us). Among the many important timepieces from A. Lange & Söhne, there is the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. The tourbillon is fascinating to see in action. Its main purpose is to neutralize the effects of gravity on a pocket watch that spent the
better part of the day tucked in a pocket. Gravity could take a toll on the watch and render the timekeeping inaccurate. The tourbillon isn’t a ‘need’ these days, since watches are generally on the wrist, not in the pocket. But a tourbillon is a fascinating mechanism to see in action. Especially when your watch is from A. Lange & Söhne. Handwerkskunst typically means handmade or handworked. But there is nothing typical about A. Lange & Söhne creations, as we’ll soon see in the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. When the Cabaret Tourbillon was first introduced in 2008, A. Lange & Söhne achieved the milestone of being able to instantly stop the balance inside the rotating cage and restart it just by pushing the crown. The Cabaret was the only rectangular watch model in the A. Lange & Söhne storehouse and it became the basis for the Cabaret Tourbillon. The Handwerkskunst series places a special premium on artisanal expression and for the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst the focus is the lozenge shape or pattern. The dial of the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is in solid white gold crafted in the manufactory and it is a thing of beauty. The color palette is elegant, and lozenge pattern in the center is intricate. The outsize date is framed, in a way, by the lozenge pattern. The master engravers needed focused time to work on the pattern because even the slightest deviation
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Feature
A. Lange & Söhne
would be noticeable. The lozenge shape is used as another design element in the hour markers, except for the 3, 9, and 12 Roman numerals. There are two subdials here, for the small seconds and the power reserve indicator. The tourbillon aperture at the 6 o’clock has parts that deviate from the grey/white gold color palette, but they add to the elegance instead of taking away from it. The two diamond endstones on the tourbillon are a nice touch too. The rectangular case measures 29.5 by 39.2 millimeters and is in platinum. The watch has a black leather strap with gray stitching and a platinum deployant buckle. A deployant buckle offers extra safety for your watch. Classic leather straps open completely, but a deployant buckle maintains the band or circle around your wrist. If for some reason the buckle opens unexpectedly, the watch is still held around the wrist and won’t tumble to the floor. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is not just pretty to look at though, it has the technical chops to satisfy the discerning horologist. As a
special edition of the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with stop seconds for the tourbillon, the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst has a lot to live up to. The calibre L042.1 is manually wound and Lange-manufactured. The twin mainspring barrel has a power reserve of 120 hours. Of the 370 parts, 84 are in the filigreed tourbillon, which weighs a quarter of a gram. The crown plays a special role in this watch — pulling it will trigger a lever that pivots a spring onto a balance wheel rim. The balance stops instantaneously and the spring controls the pressure exerted on the balance, making sure it is just enough no matter the position of the cage. This design preserves potential energy, thus allowing the balance to restart immediately when the spring is retracted as the crown is pushed home again. Strap on a beautiful A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, feel the luxuxy and appreciate the exquisite handcraftsmanship. This is a limited edition of just 30 watches, each one with a limitation engraving on the back.
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“The calibre L042.1 is manually wound and Lange-manufactured.” 41 www.calibremagazine.com
Feature Bvlgari
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TO INFINITY AND BEYOND
BULGARI GOES BEYOND THE CONFINES OF TIME WITH ANOTHER WORLD RECORD Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
Feature Bvlgari
FIRST, BULGARI GAVE US THE OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MANUAL WITH THE THINNEST HANDWOUND FLYING TOURBILLON MOVEMENT IN 2014.
Two years later, Bulgari gave us the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, with the thinnest minute repeater movement ever produced at just 3.12mm thick in the Calibre BVL 362 in 2016. Indeed, the Italian powerhouse has been acting as if they have something to prove and they have complied with one Octo Finissimo world record every year since. Starting with something relatively simple, Bulgari gave us the Octo Finissimo Automatic, the slimmest ultra-thin self-winding watch in 2017; then took it up a notch with an automatic version of the tourbillon model with a peripheral rotor in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic in 2018; the thinnest integrated mechanical chronograph with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic came a year later in 2019; and finally just last year, the same record breaking chronograph, but enhanced with a two-counter display, a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and in a new squelette form to boot came in the form of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic in 2020. Six Octo Finissimo timepieces, and six world records coming in practically one year after another, pretty amazing for a company still regarded by many as a jeweler that “occasionally” dabbles in watchmaking. Indeed, the Octo Finissimo has garnered more watchmaking records in the ultra-thin category than most other watch companies in their entire lifetimes. That’s right, the ultrathin watch category, a class that some contend is a complication in its own right. And while everyday watchmaking already employs a prodigious degree of miniaturization, ultra-thin watchmaking only ratchets that up exponentially. This is where the Octo Finissimo has hung its hat and made its own with six major watchmaking records for thinness to date, a pattern that Bulgari has obviously no intention of breaking because for 2021, Bulgari is giving us their seventh world record in almost as many years with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the slimmest perpetual calendar watch on the market featuring a total thickness of just 5.80mm. Indeed, despite its relatively short time in existence, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has had an impressive and triumphant history, one that has brought the Bulgari story so much further than anything the Roman “Dream Maker” had previously done. And by transcending the Italian brand’s previously defined scope, the Octo Finissimo has, indeed, paved the way forward into new horological territories hitherto unheard of
Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium
for the Rome-based Maison (or for most other watchmakers, for that matter). Penned by none other than the masterful Gerald Genta, the Octo Finissimo has, indeed, marched to its own beat since it was initially released with a singular design inspired by the architectural harmony of Rome (specifically the 310 AD Roman Massentius Basilica). Considered by many to be one of Genta’s most timeless horological creations, the Octo Finissimo’s multifacetted case has become another signature of the brand, and has propelled watch design firmly into the new millennium with a contradictory shape that has literally become iconic (most probably because people subliminally react to the soft round bezel that has a protective shield of angular armor around it).
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More importantly, its signature “not round and not square” aspects have paved the way for a new Italian renaissance by leveraging the Roman jeweler’s unique heritage and transforming it into modern and iconic timepieces. A renaissance that shows no signs of ebbing, by the way, with the introduction of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, a wolf in sheep’s clothing due to the fact that its razor-sharp simplicity belies the complexity of the movement within. Developed at the the Manufacture in Le Sentier, Bulgari’s movement engineers managed to fit no less than 408 components within the extremely limited confines of the slender 5.80mm case. Indeed, Calibre BVL 305 comes in at a ridiculously thin 2.75mm, and shares the same regulating organ, gear train, barrel with 60 hours
of power reserve, and winding mechanism as the movement it is derived from: the Octo Finissimo Automatic calibre BVL 138. And this all has to do with not only using a micro-rotor but also finding the optimal use of the space between the components without reducing their dimensions. Thus, the watchmakers arranged all the components on a horizontal axis instead of stacking them. This resulted in a fully integrated perpetual calendar movement that measures a generous 36.6mm in diameter. Testifying to true genius in the realm of miniaturization, Calibre BVL 305 drives the hours and minutes hands along with all the
perpetual calendar functions: retrograde-display date, day, month and retrograde-display leap years. These are adjusted by three correctors on the case flanks: the date at 2 o’clock, the month at 4 o’clock and the day between 8 and 9 o’clock. Bulgari also fully understands the need to fully integrate mechanics with style. Called L’Estetica della Meccanica, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, thus, follows the familiar monochromatic aesthetic that has distinguished every single model in the Octo Finissimo line: a hard, multi-angled 40mm case with the distinctive round bezel sporting an octagonal opening paired with its signature short-linked bracelet, all forged from
Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Platinum
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titanium, and all finished in sand blasted gray. This philosophy extends to the dial, which, as an essential part of the whole is finished and designed accordingly with the latter featuring a tight and symmetrical layout with no overlapping hands or functions that echoes the razor-sharp, multi-faceted aesthetic of the Octo Finissimo case and bracelet. Like the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, this layout serves the Octo Finissimo mission better than say, the squelette dials of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, and the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic. Best of all, for the first time, a second, more accessible, and less-severe version of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar can also be had in platinum, which in itself is pretty amazing due to the fact that platinum is a much harder material to machine than gold or steel. So machining the multiple facets of the Octo Finissimo case is a wonder in its own right. Thus, ref. 103463 features a satin-brushed and polished 40mm platinum case, white gold crown, a blue lacquered dial, matched with a blue alligator leather strap with a platinum pin clasp: more accessible, less distinctive, but simply remarkable just for even existing.
Feature Rolex
Adding a New Dimension to Cosmograph Rolex presents three exclusive versions of its Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. Words by
BERT E. CASAL
THE ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA IS A MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH DESIGNED TO MEET THE NEEDS OF RACING DRIVERS BY MEASURING ELAPSED TIME AND CALCULATING AVERAGE SPEED. The name “Daytona” refers to Daytona, Florida, where racing flourished in the early 20th century. Rolex became the official timekeeper of the Daytona International Speedway in 1962. The following year, Rolex released the very first Daytona chronograph. In addition to the chronograph, the wristwatch featured a bezel with a tachymeter scale. Since its first release, the Daytona has had three generations. The first generation of Daytona watches had a manual-winding movement. The second generation, which was launched in 1988, was equipped with a self-winding movement. And the third, introduced in the year 2000, came with an inhouse manufactured movement.
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Feature Rolex
Aside from its reliability, the Daytona was made especially popular by Hollywood actor Paul Newman. Although he was better known as an actor, Paul Newman also delved into the world of automobile racing. At one point, his wife, actress Joanne Woodward, gifted him with a Rolex Daytona. Mr. Newman was consistently seen wearing this watch as he was pursuing his racing career. He was a frequent competitor in the Sports Car Club of America, eventually winning four national championships. And in 1979, he participated in the 24 Hours of Le Mans, finishing in second place. This year, Rolex proudly presents three new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, the benchmark for those with a passion for driving and speed. All three feature a dial made from metallic meteorite - a rare natural material from outer space — with black chronograph counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. One version is presented in an 18 ct white gold case and is fitted with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic with a tachymetric scale moulded onto it. It is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet.
Another version comes in an 18 ct yellow gold case and a metal bezel engraved with a tachymetric scale on an Oyster bracelet. A third version has an 18 ct Everose gold case with a metal bezel. The tachymetric scale is engraved as well, and comes with an Oyster bracelet. The Daytona is a classic icon in itself. But what makes these new Daytonas even more special are the metallic meteorite dials they carry. Masses of rock drift in outer space. Some of the materials that make up these rocks are iron and nickel. As they make their aimless journey in the vastness of space, they are cooled down by a few degrees Celsius every million years or so, creating very unique and distinctive crystallisation within the material. These crystallisation patterns are impossible to recreate here on Earth. Metallic meteorite is very rare on our planet. As rare as it is, it is also very challenging to work with. But once it is cut into thin sections, and applied with a chemical treatment, the beauty of its interwoven internal structure is revealed. These varied formations are known as Widmanstäten patterns. As they are very difficult
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to work with, Rolex teamed up with leading experts to produce their dials. Only the sections of meteorite with a particularly well-formed surface, rich in different shapes and reflections, make the cut into a Rolex case. The white gold version, as mentioned earlier, comes with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic. Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics. Not only are these materials virtually scratchproof, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. The high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. All three versions come in Rolex’s Oyster case, a paragon of robustness and reliability. The case back is hermetically screwed down. The winding crown is fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system and is protected by an integral crown guard. It is screwed down securely against the case, along with the chronograph pushers. As such, these watches are guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), offering optimum protection for the watch’s movement. These new Daytonas are equipped with the calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It incorporates a chronograph function with a reduced number of components, thereby enhancing the movement’s reliability. It is engaged by a robust mechanism with a column wheel and vertical clutch, allowing an instantaneous and extremely precise start. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. Calibre 4130 offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification, redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch that leaves the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone, and passed, a series of tests conducted by Rolex. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is rated at -2/+2 seconds of deviation per day, a rate that is more accurate than that accepted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for official certification of a chronometer - on the movement alone. The tests that Rolex conducts are on the fully assembled watch (after casing the movement), guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international 5-year guarantee.
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Feature
Patek Philippe
PRESERVATION Patek Philippe refines six current models with beloved artisanal flourish Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
July-September 2021
NOT MANY WATCH ENTHUSIASTS HAVE REALIZED THIS BUT PATEK PHILIPPE IS ACTUALLY IN THE INSURANCE BUSINESS. That’s right, the watchmaker has made it their business to ensure that the precious artisanal skills used to decorate their finely made timepieces are handed down from one generation to the next, thereby ensuring that these precious techniques are never lost to time. Indeed, Patek Philippe is one of those rare watchmakers that have long considered its timepieces to be true works of art. Ever since the company was founded in 1893, the watchmaker has always made sure that the refined aesthetics and mechanical perfection of their watches are expressed right on the onset; bringing the synergy of mechanics and aesthetics to the forefront. This harmony is reflected instantly in the understated, elegant and timeless designs of Patek Philippe, and is further emphasized in the craftsmanship and manually executed finissage of the timepieces. And before anyone argues that Patek Philippe only endows these artisanal considerations to oneof-a-kind pieces or limited editions, rest assured that the watchmaker also applies these skills to its everyday collections, finishing watches from their current collections with rare artisanal flourish. Just take a look at the Ref. 5160/500 perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, the Ref. 5088/100 Calatrava “Volutes and Arabesques”, and the Ref. 5180/1 skeletonized Calatrava, these watches are enlivened with manual engraving. Or how about the Ref. 6300 Grandmaster Chime (the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch with 20 complications); or the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater decorated with guillochéd hobnail motifs just to name two more.
Indeed, grand feu enamel enhances the dials of certain grand complications, including several minute repeaters. The brand’s famous World Time watches feature dials with manual guilloching and decoration in cloisonné enamel. And then there’s gem setting, which is the “sparkling highlight” of a number of grand complications that transform haute joaillerie models into precious jewels. Make no mistake, Patek Philippe treats all its creations like works of art, and applies these precious artisanal skills to its everyday collections. And to emphasize this point, the watchmaker added six more “everyday” watches to this rich collection and presented them at the Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 exhibition, which ran in Geneva from the 16th to the 26th of June.
“Patek Philippe treats all its creations like works of art, and applies these precious artisanal skills to its everyday collections.”
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Feature
Patek Philippe
REF. 6002R-001 SKY MOON TOURBILLON HAUT ARTISANAT First up is a fascinating compendium of no less than 12 complications including a tourbillon and a minute repeater that chimes with cathedral gongs. Indeed, Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon is Patek Philippe’s second most complicated wristwatch, and is one of the brand’s most sought after grand complications coveted by collectors and enthusiasts. Powered by the Calibre RTO 27 QR SID LU CL Manufacture movement, it displays a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, a moon phase display and the leap year cycle on the front dial, and a celestial chart that shows the independent motion of the moon and stars as seen from the northern hemisphere. This grand ballet of celestial bodies is made possible by a system of three superposed discs moving in different, precisely calculated trajectories developed by Patek Philippe. Back in 2013, this double-faced wristwatch was made available with a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial (6002G-001), which was followed by another version with a black enamel dial (6002G010) in 2016. This year, the Sky Moon Tourbillon once again gets the rare handcrafts treatment with a new case, and new dial treatments combining the warm shimmer of rose gold with the earthy colors of brown grand feu enamel. Replacing the Ref. 6002G-010 in white gold with a black grand feu enamel dial, the new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon, sees the circumference of its main dial, its moon phase aperture, and the moon on the disc crafted in the age-old Grand Feu champlevé enamel technique. Its dial center, on the other hand, is enhanced by a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel décor traced with a thin gold thread. And as if that wasn’t enough, Patek Philippe went the extra mile with a spectacularly engraved case, crowns, slide piece, hour and minute hands, and fold-over clasp entirely hand-engraved with specially designed patterns of volutes and arabesques, a decoration that takes a master engraver over 100 hours of patient effort to complete. And if that STILL wasn’t enough, the new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon, also comes with a set of rose gold cufflinks hand-engraved with the same specially designed patterns of volutes and arabesques.
REF. 5304/301R-001 MINUTE REPEATER WITH RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR Transparency was the order of the day for the Ref. 5104 Minute Repeater with Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, the first Patek Philippe Grand Complication with a transparent sapphire dial made possible by an ingenious system that displayed the day, month, and leap year using transparent sapphire discs. Launched in 2006 as a platinum version with rose gold inserts, Ref. 5104 was subsequently released from 2014 to 2018 as a rose gold version with white gold inserts. This year, Patek Philippe is launching three new minute repeaters at the Rare Handcrafts
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2020-2021 exhibition, the first of which is another reinterpretation of the Ref. 5104. Once again forged in 43mm rose gold, Ref. 5304/301R Minute Repeater with Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is no mere “re-issue” but is a new 2021 novelty further augmented by a bezel, lugs and fold-over clasp enhanced with 80 baguette-cut diamonds (6.22 cts), as well as white gold inserts engraved with a leaf pattern that enliven the case flanks and the minute repeater slide piece. As before, all minute repeater action happens at the back of the dial as afforded by the equally spectacular view of the self-winding Calibre R 27 Q, which oscillates at a stately 21,600 semioscillations per hour (3Hz), and equipped with a
July-September 2021
REF. 5374G-001 MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
minute repeater striking two “cathedral” gongs. Indeed, movement finishing was paid particular attention to as evidenced by the off-center rose gold mini-rotor adorned with a “leaf ” pattern and rhodium-plated recesses. But it’s the view of the perpetual calendar out at front that really takes your breath away. Laid out bare for all to see, the surprisingly legible dial features the aforementioned transparent day, month, and leap year sapphire discs, which display their white indications via three gold apertures against a black background. The discs are mounted on tiny stainless steel axles, which required the development of an exclusive patented manufacturing process.
Further, leaf-shaped hands in black lacquered white gold help bring all this transparency to the fore, and are skeletonized in order not to obstruct the view of the movement. This includes various stainless steel components with beveled and polished edges that stand out against the rose-gilt baseplate with a circular grained décor. The perpetual calendar is completed by a retrograde date display, the central indication hand of which is tipped with a red half-moon that point to the numbers on the date scale around the circumference of the dial, and is complemented by a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock that also serves as the small seconds.
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Compared to the visual fireworks of the previous model, the Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is a more subdued affair, one that eschews the visual extravaganza by keeping its complications closer to the vest; and for many its all the better for it. The second minute repeater/perpetual calendar to be launched at the Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 exhibition, Ref. 5374G-001 originally made its bows in 2016 dressed to the nines in elegant platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial. Indeed, as classic Patek Philippe designs go, Ref. 5374G-001 is a winner, and the watchmaker isn’t about to break that formula, opting for a classic, “clean” design, instead of ramming the visual fireworks down our throats, all while managing to throw in a healthy dollop of hand craftsmanship. Which is why, this year, the watchmaker has reinterpreted this grand complication in white gold combined with a refreshing blue Grand Feu enamel dial. This classicism is evident in the design and finishing of the case as well with the subtle and truly harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers culminating in the concave profile of the bezel. This same refinement can be seen in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank, which contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs. Unlike the previous model, Ref. 5374G-001 is the paragon of legibility with applied white gold Breguet numerals and three slightly enlarged subdials for the day, date, month, and leap year of the perpetual calendar. Refined leaf-shaped white gold hands with luminescent coating contribute to this legibility, while the moon phase is highlighted by a champlevé white gold frame. Even the view from the caseback is less arresting but is assuring in its elegant classicism anyway. This can be seen immediately in the subtle yet tasteful decoration of the self-winding Caliber R 27 Q, which is paired with a 22K gold off-center guillochéd minirotor, and equipped with a mini repeater striking on two “cathedral” gongs that wrap around the movement almost twice to produce a deep, rich sound.
Feature
Patek Philippe
REF. 7040/250G-001 RARE HANDCRAFTS LADIES MINUTE REPEATER Back in 2011, Patek Philippe debuted what was reportedly one of the best kept secrets in high-end watchmaking: the “Ladies First” minute repeater in red gold with a cream-colored dial, and it was supposedly one of the best sounding minute repeaters Patek Philippe had ever produced, by far. The new Ref. 7040/250G Ladies Minute Repeater is a new refined white gold model that uses the same “Ladies First” movement, the selfwinding Calibre R 27 PS powered by a 22K gold eccentric minirotor recessed in the movement. Not only is the movement known for the musicality of its two classical gongs, but it also stands out with its extreme slenderness (5.05mm), endowing its slightly larger 36mm diameter officer’s-style case with hitherto unknown elegance. Further, its architecture and the lavish finissage can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back, which can be swapped with the solid back in white gold that comes with the watch. The third minute repeater, and the second in white gold to be launched at the Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 exhibition, the Ref. 7040/250G-001 is arguably the best looking of the three with a blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel dial and a diamond-set bezel. It also happens to be the purest because it is sans a perpetual calendar. Grand Feu flinqué is a rare handcrafts technique that involves the gold dial plate being entirely hand-guillochéd with (in this case) a swirling pattern inspired by the “Siamese Fighting Fish” pocket watch Ref. 992/137G, then coated with transparent blue enamel to reveal the underlying decoration. The resulting dial, in a word, is stunning, and is only enhanced by elegant spear-shaped white gold hour and minute hands, which are echoed by similarly shaped white gold transferred hour markers. A small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock completes this gorgeous ensemble. And that’s not all. The “sparkling highlight” of the Ref. 7040/250G001 comes courtesy of a bezel adorned with 168 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds set in two staggered rows that follow the Flamme technique, an exclusive gem setting technique that sees the artisan cut grooves in the gold between the stones with a sharpened flat graver. This allows light to illuminate the diamonds from below, while also giving a lighter appearance to the gem setting. The new ladies’ minute repeater Ref. 7040/250G001 is paired with a patinated ocean blue alligator leather strap secured by a white gold prong buckle also set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds.
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REF. 5738/51G-001 GOLDEN ELLIPSE HAUTE ARTISANAT Designed in accordance with the “golden section,” also called the “Divine Proportion” by Renaissance mathematician Luca Pacioli, the Golden Ellipse has the same beautifully balanced proportions seen throughout nature, as well as humankind’s greatest artistic and architectural marvels making it one of the brand’s most distinct and sought after models. And as a dress watch, the Golden Ellipse even managed that unenviable task of being simple but equally sophisticated, classic but at the same time innovative, leading the Golden Ellipse to consistently be one of the dark horse favorites of the brand. During its 50th anniversary in 2018, Patek Philippe graced the collection with a tribute to
July-September 2021
“Patek Philippe has always made sure that the refined aesthetics and mechanical perfection of their watches are expressed right on the onset.” REF. 7118/1450G NAUTILUS HAUTE JOAILLERIE
rare handcrafts, releasing a limited series of 100 sets of platinum pieces with matching cufflinks. To say that the series was instantly collectible is an understatement because on the occasion of the Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 exhibition, Patek Philippe has once again released another rare handcrafts version of the Golden Ellipse, this time with the same perfectly sized 34.5 x 39.5mm case in polished white gold, and with a new dial decoration. GOLDEN ELLIPSE Ref. 5738/51G-001 has a dial that combines two of the oldest techniques used to embellish timepieces: hand engraving and champlevé enameling. The former consists of first hollowing out the dial and the resulting raised areas hand engraved with the volutes and arabesques to form a floral
motif. The cavities resulting in the excavation forms the latter, with the empty spaces designed to receive the black Grand Feu champlevé enamel. Not surprisingly, this black and white gold combination is another winning match to the divine proportions of the Golden Ellipse, a match beautifully set off by fine white gold “hair”-type hands, and a crown set with an onyx cabochon. GOLDEN ELLIPSE Ref. 5738/51G-001 is driven by the self-winding Calibre 240 ultra-thin movement, with an off center 22K gold mini-rotor. It joins the Ref. 5738P-001 in platinum with a sunburst blue dial and Ref. 5738R-001 in rose gold with a sunburst ebony black dial already in the current collection.
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The “sparkling highlight” of the Nautilus’ entry in this group is a new version in white gold with diamonds in a random pavé setting. Indeed, Patek Philippe already released Ref. 7118/1450R-001 last April, a rose gold version with a case, bezel, and bracelet decorated with diamonds in the so-called snow settings. Now, the manufacture has released another version of this winning formula, this time in white gold. The result is simply brilliant, with the new Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie sparkling with the fire of 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds. Once again choosing the extremely elaborate technique of snow setting (also referred to as random pavé setting), the entire top portion of the watch is literally covered in 12.69 carats worth of diamonds in varying sizes. This randomness makes every Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie unique. Indeed, the gem setter “freely marries diamonds of different diameters, leaving a minimum of gold surface between the stones,” and this includes the bracelet and the dial, which even in an Haute Joaillerie timepiece, must still adhere to the Patek Philippe Seal. This means perfect legibility, and to ensure this the dial is enhanced by blackened white gold alpha-style hour and minute hands, as well as applied hour markers and Arabic numerals in the same metal, all of which are luminescent. Powered by the self-winding caliber 324 S with its meticulous finishing visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case back, the new white gold Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 7118/1450G-001 joins the rose gold Ref. 7118/1450R-001 in the current Patek Philippe collection.
Feature Chopard
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GRAY GHOST
Chopard gives their perpetual chrono a contemporary update Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Chopard
THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH WAS ONCE THE EXCLUSIVE DOMAIN OF HOROLOGICAL POWERHOUSES SUCH AS PATEK PHILIPPE, VACHERON CONSTANTIN, A. LANGE & SÖHNE, AND THE LIKE. Not so much of late
with the likes of IWC and Hublot (just to name two) also throwing their hats into that exclusive ring. Chopard with its high-end L.U.C line is another luxury watchmaker that recently joined that exclusive club with a perpetual calendar chronograph of its own. Launched in 2016 as a 20-piece limited edition, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is comparable to A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual in that, aside from the perpetual calendar, also features a large panoramic date, and a hand-wound, flyback chronograph; all while exhibiting a more distinctive design language making it more extroverted than both its Lange and Patek Philippe counterparts. Made of Fairmined 18K white gold, the 45mm Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono was by no means a small watch and was powered by the all-in-house L.U.C 03.10-L Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement. A COSC-certified chronometer, Calibre L.U.C 03.10-L is based on the L.U.C 03.07-L column wheel chronograph movement with vertical clutch, which was introduced in 2014 to commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of the Scheufele family’s ownership of Chopard, and is finished to such a spectacular degree that it was endowed with the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This year, Chopard dials back the bling by reintroducing the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in a lightweight grade-5 titanium case with a corresponding pared-down aesthetic. Once again a limited edition of only 20 pieces, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is one of the few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs in the market, and benefits from the lightweight material by transforming its considerable 45mm size into something surprisingly ergonomic, comfortable, and suitable for everyday wear. A pared-down dial makes the case, which not only gets a mild facelift, but also gets a corresponding color palette. Premier to this is a predominantly metallic slate-gray rhodium dial color, which enhances the sunburst guilloché pattern radiating outward from the brand logo at 12 o’clock. Eschewing the stylized Roman numerals for pointed arrowhead markers, the dial of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is suddenly equally refined and more contemporary, but one that suffers less legibility, especially when it comes to the two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, which
do double duty as chronograph counters and perpetual calendar displays. In the 2016 model, these counters were galvanized silver, but now they are the same matte gray as the rest of the dial, which makes the only non-gray colored dial element pop out: the blue high precision orbital moon phase display, which suddenly becomes the dial’s show piece. Indeed, the entire display rotates over the course of a lunar month, and is accurate for up to 122 years. As before, the left-hand subdial doubles as the chronograph hours, and the calendar days of the week, while a small upper left projection
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houses the day and night indicator. The right hand subdial, on the other hand, displays the chronograph minutes and the calendar months while incorporating the leap year indicator. Both the calendar date and chronograph minutes are instantaneous, which make for easier and more accurate reading. Further, in an unprecedented nod to practicality, the hours and minutes hands have been lumed, while points of red highlight the quarters of the dial and the tips of the chronograph hands, providing additional contrast to the sleek grayness of the entire affair.
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Powering the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is once again the L.U.C 03.10-L, a modern chronograph calibre with flyback function, and a column wheel and vertical coupling clutch architecture. The former precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while the latter ensures light to the touch but the utterly exact actuation of the chronograph, which can be run without any detriment to balance amplitude. The L.U.C 03.10-L is comprised of 452 parts and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour for a rated power reserve of 60 hours. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is still doubly certified, first as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) denoting superior performance in accuracy and reliability, and by the Poinçon de
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Genève, which acknowledges the highest levels of hand finishing throughout the watch. Indeed, the movement bridges are made of German silver and feature multiple sharp exterior and interior angles, the baseplate features an even perlage, the jewel countersinks are bevelled, the levers of the chronograph are straight grained and bevelled on their flanks, as are the bridges; all of which attest to the fact that the movement was clearly designed not just for functionality but also for aesthetic beauty. Finally, the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is matched with a soft, grey nubuck calfskin leather strap, which merely underlines the superior design and build of Chopard’s proud entry into the perpetual calendar chronograph sweepstakes.
Feature Panerai
THE COMING TOGETHER OF TWO LEGENDS
Combining two iconic designs into an elegant timepiece. Wo rds by
BERT E. CASAL
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July-September 2021
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Feature Panerai
“The Radiomir Eilean shares the same design cues as the famous yacht.”
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July-September 2021
GIOVANI PANERAI FIRST OPENED HIS SHOP IN 1860 IN FLORENCE, SERVING NOT ONLY AS A WATCH SHOP AND WORKSHOP, BUT ALSO AS THE CITY’S FIRST WATCHMAKING SCHOOL. Over the years, his shop became synonymous to high-quality watches. After having gained that reputation, the shop was able to acquire military requirements for the Italian Royal Navy, supplying them with precision instruments such as naval combat sights. In 1935, the Italian Royal Navy set up a secret programme of new underwater assault vehicles. As with all vehicles, they come with operators. These operators will, of course, need tools, specifically a diver’s watch. To meet the parameters required by the Navy, Panerai tested a number of diving watches. Prototypes were created and tested. The best result came from the Ref. 2533. The Panerai Ref. 2533 is the first Radiomir (named for the material patented by Guido Panerai to illuminate the dials and sights in the dark) with a wire loop handle case with no crown protecting bridge. The dial had no numerical indexes. It did have line segments on 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and double lines at the 12 o’clock position. Dots represented the rest of the hour indexes.
The shape of the case of this first Radiomir, released in 1936, has become the iconic design that we all know today. In that same year, a 70-foot yacht, called Eilean, was completed, designed by William Fife. It was built for the Fulton brothers, who were Scottish steel merchants. In the 1960s, the yacht was bought by Hartley Shawcross, who later on sold her to a yacht charter business in English Harbour, Antigua. In 1982, Eilean would be featured in the music video “Rio” by British pop band Duran Duran. In 2006, Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati saw the boat in English Harbour in a state of disrepair. Bonati purchased it and arranged for the yacht to be restored. It was launched in 2009 as part of an advertising campaign for the Panerai brand. She is now a regular on the international circuit at the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, and can be seen every summer, gracing the oceans around Antigua, Naples, Cannes, and Cowes. Having the same birth year, it seems to be the logical decision to have a Radiomir watch with design elements that reflect the design cues of the Eilean. Presenting: the Radiomir Eilean timepiece. The Radiomir Eilean has a 45 mm case,
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composed of patina steel with a matte finish that reflects light with a softer, warmer cluster than highly polished metal. Within the case, vintagestyle golden finish hands mark the time on a signature sandwich dial featuring numerals and indices in beige SuperLumiNova™ that emit a green glow, features that remain faithful to the appearance of early models. The surface of the dial features striations and a variegated brown finish that evokes the teak deck of the yacht, while the case back and strap bear an inscription that reads “Eilean 1936” and is identical to one located on the ship’s boom. The dragon emblem that decorates the boat’s hull was reproduced in an engraving on the lefthand side of the case. It is water resistant to 100 meters. Within the case is the P.6000 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement that produces 21,600 alternations per hour and carries a power reserve of 3 days. The watch strap is made from leather produced in Tuscany, the Italian region where Panerai was born. It features hand-applied stitching inspired by lacing found on the sails of the yacht. The Radiomir Eilean is available in only 449 pieces per year.
Feature Hublot
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July-September 2021
BEAUTY — of —
SUMMER R E L I V E
T H E Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN
M A G I C
Feature Hublot
SUMMER IS THE TIME FOR CAREFREE PURSUITS.
Trips to the beach are typically on everyone’s agenda, with plans for hitting the waves, catching some rays, and having lots of delicious food. You bring a little bit of each place you visit back with you, in a souvenir or in your heart. Summer is when you make the memories that will get you through the rest of the year. When you’re sitting at your desk that is overrun with files and you need a momentary mental getaway, it is the memory of summer fun that brings you that escape. Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO says it best: “What I love most when travelling is the amazement of the return, wrote Stendhal. This enchantment of the journey that we bring back with us transforms us a little, for the better… And even if daily life has not really changed on our return, our eyes being open to other horizons is enough to lend it new colour.” And even though our summers lately have been a bit more controlled due to the pandemic, we
can still dream and transport ourselves to That Perfect Summer Day. What better way to remind yourself of the beauty of summer than a gorgeous Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer timepiece? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer is a beautiful watch in a fun and exhilarating shade of turquoise. Not the turquoise of the mountains, but the turquoise of the seas and deepest lagoons. Turquoise is tranquil and yet enlivening, it is chill and excitement at the same time. As Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO says, “The Big Bang Unico Summer embodies the beauty of our summer experiences.We wanted to give you another shade for this year, to let you relive these magic moments any time you want.” This is not Hublot’s first foray into pastelcolored deliciousness. Remember the Big Bang Millennial Pink that we looked at in Calibre 129? That, too, was a pastel beauty, suited for anyone with a heart for a rosy outlook. Similarly, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer is a unisex piece. The vibrant turquoise would suit anyone with a light, airy demeanor, and a spirit of fun. Achieving the exact shade of turquoise was
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not a simple task, but with Hublot’s expertise in materials technology, it must’ve been a (summer) breeze for them. Anodization helped color the case and components, and guarantees that your watch will be free of scratches. No one would want to scar that beautiful case with any damage. Even the pushers and crown are in that turquoise shade. The 42-mm case might seem a bit large for some, but the anodized satin-finished and polished aluminum is lightweight so it will still be comfortable on the wrist. The dial shows the hours and minutes, plus the date in a window within the subdial by the 3 o’clock. The hours are marked in turquoise and white, except for the 3, 6, and 9. The hands are also a pairing of turquoise and white, and offer a break to the turquoise wave that is the Unico Summer. The skeletonized dial lets you see the inner workings of your watch, with the oscillating seconds clutch, a chronograph friction system
July-September 2021
with ball-bearing adjustment, and a column wheel all visible. The movement itself is just 6.75 mm thick, and fits nicely in the case, just 14.5 mm thick. And as expected of a watch that speaks the summer vibe, the Unico Summer is water resistant to 100 meters. The UNICO manufacture calibre (HUB1280) powers the Unico Summer and gives you a 72hour power reserve, perfect for a weekend escape. The chronograph gives you that stopwatch ability without needing another gadget, and really, it’ll be fun to play with even if you aren’t timing record-breaking laps. A watch this fun also gives you versatility. The Big Bang Unico Summer has two straps, both in the beautiful turquoise. There is the Velcro strap that comes with a sports buckle, and the natural rubber strap that comes with a deployant clasp. The deployant clasp helps keep that watch on your wrist throughout your different activities. Both the sports buckle and the plate on the deployant clasp are in turquoise anodized aluminum, with the HUBLOT logo engraved and lacquered in pristine white. That white is a fitting complement to the white we saw earlier on the dial. This watch also gives you ease and simplicity, in a sense. The Hublot patented “One Click” attachment system means you can switch from one strap to another, with, well, one click. This watch is a limited edition of 200 pieces available in the Mediterranean boutiques and the e-commerce site. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer is the watch to have to remind you of the summers that were, or inspire you for the summers that will be.
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Feature
Carl F. Bucherer
TRIPTYCH SYMPHONY
Carl F. Bucherer’s latest sets new standards in the field of peripheral technology Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature
Carl F. Bucherer
A TRIPTYCH IS DEFINED AS A PICTURE OR RELIEF CARVING ON THREE PANELS, TYPICALLY HINGED TOGETHER SIDE BY SIDE AND USED AS AN ALTARPIECE. But Oxford also defines triptych as a set of three associated artistic, literary, or musical works intended to be appreciated together. It is this latter definition that defines the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, a musical extravaganza in three parts. Indeed, the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is in fact the most complex watch ever created by the Lucerne-based watchmaker, and we’re thankful that it does not have the urge to show it. At first glance the Symphony looks for all intents and purposes, like a “regular” high-end dress watch, and it’s only certain elements on the dial that whet the appetite at the complexities hidden within. Premier of which, of course, is the tourbillon sitting at pride of place at 12 o’clock. While further south on the finely grained dial are the governor and the hammers of a repeater mechanism. That’s right, unlike other watchmakers that reverse the movement to show the repeater mechanism on the dial, the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer opted for a more subtle approach, only providing cut outs to tease of the Symphony’s musical talents. But that’s just the beginning because the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony true reason for being is not its musical prowess, but how it went about achieving it. Some watchmakers have come to “own” certain technical “solutions” in horology. And even if Carl F. Bucherer is by no means the inventor of peripheral technology, the watchmaker has nonetheless advanced the technology to such a degree that the Lucerne-based company has become synonymous with it. And it is an expertise expressed fully in the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, a COSC-certified chronometer that takes peripheral technology to places no watch brand has ever been before, with three peripheral movement elements: the rotor, the regulator, and a remarkable tourbillon that appears to float freely, all of which were developed in-house and patented by Carl F. Bucherer. “Clearly, our accomplishments in peripheral technology have become our flagship,” says Carl F. Bucherer CEO, Sascha Moeri. “When we secured our patent on the peripheral winding system back in 2008, it sparked the passion that ultimately led to the creation of this new watch.We are proud of what we’ve achieved and excited about sharing it with the world.” Moeri is referring, of course, to the A1000, the first in-house manufactured movement to
implement the peripheral concept successfully in series production. This was followed by the CFB A2000 series of movements, the logical evolution of the original in-house peripheral rotor movement designed and produced entirely within the watchmaker’s workshops. The T3000 premiered in 2018, and brought the Carl F. Bucherer peripheral story to its next chapter by bringing a peripherally mounted tourbillon to the proceedings. Supported peripherally by three ball bearings that were all but invisible to the user, this made the tourbillon look, for all intents and purposes, like it was floating on thin air. This year, Carl F. Bucherer has added a musical dimension to their peripheral saga with the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, which showcases openings on the dial that highlight the repeater workings, as well as the floating tourbillon of the MR3000 movement.
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Looking very much like a hand-wound movement, the MR3000 features a discrete 22K rose gold peripheral oscillating weight, and boasts a 65-hour power reserve. Premier of the dial openings is at 12 o’clock, which is where the tourbillon is proudly and prominently displayed. As before it is supported peripherally by three frictionless ceramic ball bearings to ensure stability and precise guidance. This is followed by the openings at 5 and 7 o’clock, which is where the striking hammers can be observed. But it’s the opening at 6 o’clock that is crucial here: it showcases the watch’s innovative regulator, which sets the beat of the chimes, and is also mounted peripherally, again via three lowfriction ceramic ball bearings. Further, the tourbillon and minute repeater have a built in mechanisms that allow exact synchronization of the watch, and a protection mechanism that prevents the inadvertent misuse
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of the crown. The former is a “hacking” stopseconds function that stops the tourbillon on command when the crown is pulled to allow for the setting of the time precisely to the second. While, the latter prevents its inadvertent use, thereby locking the crown automatically when the repeater is running. Conversely, the repeater cannot be activated when the crown is pulled out. This is visually verified via the discreet display at 9 o’clock, which displays a blue dot when the crown is pulled out, and a musical note when the minute repeater is activated. Limited to 88 pieces, the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony is clad in an elegant 43.5mm 18K rose gold case with openworked and hand-angled lugs tapered to follow the silhouette of the wrist. Not only do these spoke-shaped horns reduce the mass while adding a touch of sensuality to the case, they also amplify the repeater’s melodious sound. This elegance extends to the hand-galvanized 18K white gold dial, which features a fine grainé texture; 18K rose gold hands; and hour markers that reflect the warm hue of the case. The individual numbering of the model is engraved by hand on a small plaque in 18-karat gold at the 6 o’clock position on the dial.
Indeed, connoisseurs of sophisticated watchmaking will appreciate the elaborate finishing on display here. These include the carefully diamond-beveled and highly polished chamfers, the sandblasted crown, the handangled dial edges and windows, or the Genevastriped, angled, and diamond-beveled bridges that can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back. And aside from being presented on a handstitched alligator leather strap (the individual scales of which were finished by hand) and secured with an 18-karat rose gold folding clasp, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony also comes out-of-the-box with a stunning, specially designed resonator that looks like something from the original series of Star Trek. Crafted from spruce harvested from the forests in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains, the timber of the unusually shaped resonator is known for the qualities of its tone and is used in some of the world’s finest string instruments; it not only doubles the volume of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony but it also allows the user to share its unique brand of music. And to celebrate the unmistakable sound of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony,
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young Swedish composer Lisa Streich of the Lucerne Festival Orchestra wrote the piece “PERIPHERY,” which premiered at this year’s Watches and Wonders along with the watch that inspired it. Indeed, the 2 minute and 30 second composition takes the various elements of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony and reinterpreted them sonically. Recreated with a distinctive tick, tock, tick, tock, the repeater’s peripherally mounted regulator is reproduced by the striking and stroking of a triangle positioned vertically on a timpani. The complexity of the peripheral rotor is reinterpreted in the sounds of a violin bow drawn against the length the strings, as well as the breathing noises from the wind instruments, and the quirky drone of an instrument called a buzzing bow. While the floating tourbillon and its delicate cage find their counterpart in the brass section, the players of which tap the bells of their horns with a pencil, triggering the wiping motion among the strings. In doing so, the trumpet provokes a response from the higher strings, while the trombone stimulates a response from the lower ones; music in time with horology.
Feature TAG Heuer
S tay ac t i v e a n d C onnected with Super M a r i o
July-September 2021
Words by
KATHERI NE S. CUNANAN
Feature TAG Heuer
KEEP MOVING, THE DOCTORS SAY, STAY ACTIVE.
get even the most comfortably seated person out of their chair. This collaboration brings together horology enthusiasts and gaming world fans. Having spent countless hours in the adventure world myself, and even more hours in the karting version (sorry, Mom), this watch certainly caught my interest and makes me want to have that little Italian plumber on my wrist. I would love to add this watch to my rotation of TAG Heuers. I’m certain there are other Super Mario fans out there too, since Nintendo sold more than 370 million games. Super Mario, in his red cap, blue overalls, and infectious smile, is recognized across the globe. And now, Super Mario can become your own work out buddy. The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario will keep you active by encouraging you to get moving with Mario. Mario is always
BUILD YOUR IMMUNITY AND RESISTANCE. Easy
to say but hard to do, when sitting in front of a laptop and working remotely from home have become the norm. But TAG Heuer and their Connected smartwatch have just made it infinitely more fun to get moving. And they did it with the friendly Italian plumber we all know and love… It’sa me, Mario! A long-awaited collaboration has finally come to life: TAG Heuer and Nintendo have come together to offer us the cutest smartwatch ever. The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition is the pairing of a fantastic sports watch brand with the pop culture icon who led us through adventures both simple and complex. His animated moves and jumps, coupled with the famous Super Mario theme song, are enough to
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moving, with his iconic runs and jumps, and the more active you are, the more animated Mario becomes. It is a gamification of your day in the cutest way. As says Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, says, “The inspiration for this collaboration came from our desire to gamify and bring excitement to our new wellness application and Super Mario instantly came to our minds. And it’s not just his international and intergenerational appeal that clinched it. Mario is the ultimate super-active character whose perseverance and tenacity get him out of every situation. The
TAG Heuer Connected is the perfect companion for a connected life and every active person’s best friend. With this Super Mario limited-edition smartwatch, they can add a bit of fun and originality to their activities and wellness.” With the TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition, you start your day with a salute and doff of the hat from Mario. As you hit certain percentages of your daily goal (25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%), you are rewarded with a different animation (yes, Easter eggs!). Each animation features one of Mario’s special objects. At 3
o’clock you see the Super Mushroom that turns Mario into giant Mario. At 6 o’clock, you see the green Pipe that gives Mario a shortcut to faster travel. At 9 o’clock, you see the Super Star that gives Mario invincibility (is that available in real life?). And when you hit 100% of your step count, Mario will climb the Goal Pole in celebration. The interactive watchface is, of course, pre-installed on the TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition, but will be available on other TAG Heuer Connected editions in the future. Aside from the reminiscence this watch would bring, there is also the smartwatch aspect to it. The TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition is 45mm in diameter and just 13.5 mm thick. Full charging takes just an hour and a half, and will take you through a day of normal activity (assuming 1 hour of athletic activity) or 6 hours for sports use. The watch has sensors for a heart rate monitor, compass, accelerometer, metrics, and recorded activities. This doesn’t take the place of a doctor visit and monitoring, but it can help you track your daily activity. The chronograph-inspired limited edition watch comes with other Super Mario-ified reinterpretations too. There are four dials that each have special details taken from Super Mario’s world. The Timekeeping watchface has retro elements in pixels, similar to what you’d see in the game. The Heuer 02 watchface has two versions for this special edition: one that has the iconic red and blue, and another that has a more classic look with Super Mario’s red cap. The fourth watchface is the Orbital version with Super Mario’s elements in a rotating movement. The interface and reskins are exclusive to the limited edition. The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario has exterior changes too. The iconic red cap color is seen in the bezel graduation, push buttons, and crown logo. The 3, 6, and 9 icons on the bezel represent the animation you would see during the day — the Mushroom, Pipe, and Magic Star. The new-look steel case comes with two interchangeable straps with that Super Mario red color. The first strap is black leather on red rubber, and the second is red perforated rubber. Look closely at the buckles and you’ll see the M of Mario engraved on them, just as it is on the crown. The screw-down case back has a special inscription too, “TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition.” Making this Super Mario horological adventure even more desirable is the travel case in Super Mario red. The TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition is just the smartwatch you want to keep you active and young at heart.
Feature Oris
SAVING WATERS Words b y
BERT E. CASAL
Preserving the world’s largest tidal system.
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Feature Oris
ORIS’S CHANGE FOR THE BETTER CAMPAIGN IS AIMED AT CONSERVING OUR PLANET, JUST AS MUCH AS IT IS ABOUT IMPROVING PEOPLE’S LIVES. Over the past decade, they have worked with non-profit government organisations and clean-up movements all over the world. Change for the Better also covers social projects such as Movember, the Carl Brashear Foundation, and most recently, a partnership with the Roberto Clemente Foundation. The latest project of Oris is with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS), a trilateral organisation covering Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands, all of whom work to conserve and protect the Wadden Sea, the world’s largest unbroken tidal system. In 2009, UNESCO awarded it World Heritage Site status to reflect its importance to global biodiversity. The Wadden Sea covers an area of 11,500 km2 in the North Sea and has a 500 km coastline. It is hugely biodiverse, because at any one time, there are more than 6 million birds inside its borders. Each year, between 10 and 12 million migratory birds pass through it, and more than 30 species of breeding birds. The salt marshes host around 2,300 species of flora and fauna, and there are a further 2,700 species in the marine and brackish areas. This diversity makes it one of the most important natural properties on the planet. In fact, experts have calculated that biodiversity on a worldwide scale is reliant on the Wadden Sea. Also, it is one of the few remaining natural large-scale intertidal ecosystems where natural processes continue to function largely undisturbed. But the Wadden Sea is under constant threats from fishing, harbour development, oil and gas rigs, wind farms, maritime traffic, residential and tourism development, and the impact of climate change. This is why it needs protecting. Bernard Baerends is the executive secretary and head of the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat. The CWSS story begins in 1978 when Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands began cooperation to protect the Wadden Sea as an ecological entity and formed the Trilateral Wadden Sea Corporation. The CWSS was founded in 1987 and has been tasked with delivering all kinds of goals that support the Wadden Sea’s natural and sustainable ecosystem. In an interview, Baerends was asked about the importance of the Wadden Sea. His response was: “In simple terms, it’s the largest unbroken
tidal flat and barrier-island depositional system in the world. It’s recognised as being of global importance for the conservation of biodiversity and ecological and geological processes that still proceed mostly naturally. Ecologists have been documenting it since the early 20th century and it’s become a reference point for comparison with other tidal flats around the world. It’s a shallow environment which makes it of vital importance to the reproduction of many fish species. Overall, the Wadden Sea uniquely demonstrates how nature, plants and animals adapt themselves to constantly changing conditions.” “It’s an ongoing mission to raise awareness of the area’s importance, and to communicate its vulnerability,” he continued. “We also need more research and monitoring to understand the potential effects of climate change.
Bernard Baerends, executive secretary and head of CWSS
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Oris’s Change for the Better campaign fits so well with the efforts of the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat. To help them raise awareness and funds to continue their work, the Swiss watch brand presents the Oris Dat Watt Limited Edition, based on the Oris Aquis diver’s watch. The 2,009 pieces mark the year the Wadden Sea was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The 43.5 mm multi-piece stainless steel case with uni-directional rotating bezel houses the Oris 761 movement that features a centre hand moon phase, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop seconds. This automatic movement carries a 38-hour power reserve. The stainless steel case back is screwed down, allowing a 300-meter water resistance rating. Its stainless steel metal bracelet is equipped with a folding clasp with extension.
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Oris Co-CEO Rolf Studer said: “When we heard about the scale and value of the work done by the CWSS, we felt compelled to offer our support. As well as raising awareness, we will also be supporting the organisation’s conservation efforts with funds raised from sales of the Dat Watt Limited Edition. Why? It’s the right thing to do.” When asked about the origins of their partnership with Oris, Baerends said: “Oris approached us, which was much appreciated. Before we could enter into a partnership, we had to evaluate the company. We found that Oris follows the highest standards of sustainability, and that it has a strong track record of working with esteemed environmental organisations. The partnership is our first with a private company
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outside the Wadden Sea area, and it’s set to run for a minimum of three years. It begins with the specially developed Dat Watt Limited Edition - Dat Watt means ‘the Wadden Sea” in Low German. We’ll be running some events together to raise awareness, and, importantly, funds raised by sales of the watch will finance a project that we would not otherwise have been able to launch. We’re very excited to work with Oris.” Oris’s aim is to become climate neutral. This means taking action to recycle more, reduce emissions, improve their manufacturing facilities, and much more. Nature knows no borders, and neither does Oris’s campaign to bring Change for the Better. It’s a global, tangible mission to make the world a better place.
SOUND BREAKER ULYSSE NARDIN GETS EVEN LOUDER WITH THEIR MOST INNOVATIVE STRIKING WATCH YET Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO FROM THE GROUNDBREAKING GENGHIS KHAN
if the resulting sound wasn’t partially absorbed by the inner workings of the timepiece itself. That’s the way it’s always been and that’s the way it’s always worked, with various watch brands (including this one) finding ways around that sound absorption “problem.” But in 2019, the watchmakers at Ulysse Nardin not only found a way to tweak that particular formula but they also added an additional element to the mix: a titanium membrane. Indeed, in collaboration with French audio technology company Devialet (one of the co-founders of which is a direct descendant of the Ulysse Nardin family), Ulysse Nardin produced the Classico Hourstriker Phantom, an extraordinarily loud chiming watch with a volume of 85 dB (if measured from 10cm away). And owing to the fact that Devialet are masters of High Fidelity sound systems, the Phantom featured a gong connected by “torsion levers” to a 0.3mm thick titanium membrane, which moves air to amplify the sound like a speaker.
AND ALEXANDER THE GREAT WESTMINSTER TOURBILLON MINUTE REPEATERS (WHICH ARE TWO OF THE MOST COMPLEX AND EXPENSIVE LIMITED EDITION WATCHES PRODUCED BY THE BRAND), ULYSSE NARDIN HAS HAD A LONG TRADITION OF WATCHES WITH A “MUSICAL” SOUL. They even had an extraordinary 99-piece limited edition 18 carat rose gold musical watch that plays old blue eyes’ Strangers in the Night, called (appropriately) The Stranger. In fact, from dressy chiming watches that only chime the hours to erotic minute repeaters that highlight its suggestive movements via mechanical automata, the watchmaker from Le Locle has had a long and diverse history of all sorts of chiming timepieces. But it wasn’t until 2019 that Ulysse Nardin found a completely unique way to produce sound. Traditionally, “regular” striking watches would employ hammers that strike a wire gong wrapped around the movement. Which is well and good
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July-September 2021
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Feature
Ulysse Nardin
STEALTH TECHNOLOGY 2020 then saw the release of something completely different: the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon watch collection. As the story goes, when the conceptualization of the Blast collection was still in its infancy, Chief Product Officer Jean-Christophe Sabatier, showed a photo of the Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk stealth bomber to his R&D team as a point of reference. Incredulously, Christophe Sabatier wanted the Blast “to look like that!” Well, 2020’s Ulysse Nardin Blast didn’t exactly look like the F-117 Nighthawk but its case certainly did; with so many impossible angles that the watchmaker had to come up with entirely new methods to finish it. And they used lasers. That’s right, laser etching was utilized to polish those triangular, almost vertical facets that make up the case and lugs. Thing is, laser etching produces a uniform striped effect with evenly spaced, perfectly even lines that may look “laser sharp” but is entirely devoid of that “human” quality. Thus, to mimic the look of “genuine” brushing, an algorithm had to be developed that would randomize the laser pattern and achieve the uneven, yet elegant effect of traditional brushing. “We have two collections at Ulysse Nardin in which we express our disruptive interpretation of our own manufacture,” says Jean-Christophe Sabatier. “We have the Freak, where the philosophy clearly is that form follows function. One hundred per cent is given to the expression of our uniqueness in terms of the mechanical development of our movements.With Blast, the philosophy is a little bit reversed. The idea is that the most important thing for us is a design proposal that is just spectacular. Then we reverse the process and we try to think how we can bring and adapt the technical content in order to reach this level of spectacularity. The calibre architecture, the choices… they are made in order to support the design proposal.” So a minute repeater that uses a titanium membrane that acts like a speaker to amplify the sound, and a new case design that uses laser etching to finish it. What could they possibly come up with next, you might ask? Well, they could marry the two. Introducing the Blast Hourstriker, Ulysse Nardin’s latest chiming watch that not only taps into Devialet’s unique acoustical expertise to produce a gloriously loud sound but also inherits the Blast’s fascinating multi-faceted design language. Making its debut at the Watches and Wonders 2021, the Blast Hourstriker picks up where the Hourstriker Phantom left off. This means like its predecessor the new Hourstriker also employs a
gong connected by “torsion levers” to a 0.3mm thick titanium membrane coated in black DLC. As before, the membrane moves air to amplify the sound like a speaker and has resulted in a chiming watch that is just as loud as its predecessor. But that’s not all. “We are, with this version, at a level of decibels that is similar, comparable,” continued Sabatier. “But we also wanted to balance this with the quality level of the sound. So we have improved the system with some geometric tests that we have done on all its elements. We have also added, onto the back of the titanium membrane, a very little screw that allows us to set, more precisely, the sound quality of the membrane.” The resulting chime is said to sound “more like crystal,” which, according to Sabatier, is “maybe more respectful to what were the traditional chiming pieces of the past.” And now being part of the Ulysse Nardin Blast collection, the Blast Hourstriker’s gloriously angular case benefits from laser etching to get to those “hard to reach” areas. The result is a Blast
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Hourstriker that looks even more experimental than its predecessor. To think, the Hourstriker Phantom was hardly traditional looking to begin with; this new Hourstriker just amplifies everything to “11” (pun intended). To be clear, the Blast Hourstriker is not a minute repeater but a chiming watch that chimes the full hours and half hours. This explains the presence of only one hammer; a fact clearly in evidence because the ingenious Ulysse Nardin/ Devialet new movement architecture brings the striking mechanism to the watch’s dial side. In fact, on the Blast Hourstriker, there is no actual dial to muffle the UN-621 caliber, Ulysse Nardin’s first in-house automatic striking manufacture movement. Sleek and contemporary, and stamped with the now iconic “X” associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces, the UN-621 caliber is descended from the UN-610 calibre, and is (for now) used exclusively for the Blast Hourstriker. It oscillates at 4Hz (or 28,800 vibrations per hour),
boasts up to 60 hours of power reserve, and is powered by a flying tourbillon equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, and a hairspring, anchor and escape wheel made of silicium. And did we mention that this 330-part striking caliber is clearly seen on the dial side? Thus, when the striker is “ON,” the ensuing mechanical ballet is a spectacle to behold, striking each full and half-hour with a system of springs, levers, a hammer at 12 o’clock and the gong subtly shaped to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon. Powered by its own dedicated hand-wound barrel, the chiming mechanism is activated via a pusher at 8 o’clock and indicated by an “On” or “Off” indicator at the top right of the tourbillon; while a ‘Sonnerie au Passage’ or a ‘chime on demand’ is also on hand via the pusher at 10 o’clock. As with the Phantom, the black DLC-coated titanium membrane is connected to the heel of the gong with a torsion bar. Spanning the
tungsten oscillating weight, this torsion bar connects the gong and gong support to the rest of the movement. Further, the UN-621 caliber is fitted with a support back with circular cut-outs for sound to travel through, which also helps prevent deformation of the titanium membrane in the event of “extreme external pressure.” These are all protected by an 18K rose gold caseback cutout with the Blast line’s signature double “X,” which not only allows the sound waves to travel outside of the case, but also ensures the safety of the sensitive Devialet membrane. And then there’s the aforementioned 45mm “Blast” case, which is arguably just as complex as the movement. Made up of two materials, the middle case is forged in titanium for its highly resonant qualities and is coated in black DLC. Highly contemporary, the case is virtually identical to the Blast Skeleton Tourbillon that spearheaded the Blast collection from last year, and is capped with 18K rose gold (which also
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make up the multi-faceted lugs and crown guard), and topped by a box sapphire crystal. This allows for the rated 30 meters of water resistance despite the multiple openings on the caseback. Three straps are on hand, which (according to the Manufacture) brings the Blast Hourstriker’s multi-faceted personalities to the fore: a black high-tech, waterproof velvet option to emphasize its “aero dynamism;” an elegant alligator leather option to bring out its more sophisticated side; and a specialized rubber strap to emphasize its sporty personality. Indeed, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker is another breakthrough for Ulysse Nardin. Since the brand’s resurgence in the 1980s, they have become known as the high-end watchmaker of unpredictable and oftentimes whimsical timepieces. Their new Hourstriker is not only a “BLAST,” but it also continues that illusive spirit of originality and creativity that the watchmaker has carefully cultivated for the past 4 decades.
Feature Hermès
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Masculinity the Hermès way Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
Feature Hermès
MISTER AVERAGE JOE BE WARNED: THE MEN’S UNIVERSE OF THE HOUSE OF HERMÈS IS AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT DIMENSION THAN MOST MEN ARE USED TO. In fact, the men that patronize Hermès are often quite secure in their masculinity. Here, refinement is the rule where stylishness with a “design-forward” way of thinking takes center stage. Indeed, this kind of seminal approach is probably most obvious with their watchmaking, the division of which, the Maison has invested considerable amounts and resources in developing. Which is probably why Hermès has finally filled the gap in their product line-up to offer a casual everyday men’s watch distinct enough to stand amongst the brand’s other watch offerings such as the Arceau, Slim d’Hermès, Carre H Watch, and Cape Cod models, all while maintaining the Maison’s signature quirkiness and style. Designed as a versatile, all-terrain alternative to the brand’s more sophisticated offerings, the new Hermès
H08 made waves at the Watches & Wonders 2021, and that’s because French fashion power houses like Hermès don’t exactly follow the rules of traditional watchmaking. Aside from their own offerings mentioned above, just take a gander at the wares of other fashion houses if you don’t take our meaning: the Octo Roma from Bulgari; the Tambour from Louis Vuitton; or the double whammy of the Santos de Cartier and Tank watch both by Cartier, just to name a few. All follow a particular “designforward” philosophy that seems to prioritize aesthetics rather than technicity. Not to say that the actual watchmaking on display here is not on par with the best in industry, because it is. We’re just saying houses like Hermès seem to tackle their horological projects from a different point of view, and they’re all the more distinct for it. From a design standpoint, the H08 looks and feels like the logical evolution of the Maison’s original circle-within-a-square Carre H Watch but
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without the eccentric (but lovely) wire lugs and with even rounder edges. In fact, Véronique Nichanian (Hermès Creative Director), Pierre-Alexis Dumas (Hermès Artistic Director), and Philippe Delhotal (Hermès Horloger Artistic Director) have endowed the H08 with a more versatile and everyday “go-anywhere, do-anything” vocation. And with a lightweight cushion-shaped titanium case, optional rubber or woven straps, lumed displays, AR coating, and actual 100 meters of water resistance, the H08 has the watchmaking to back it up. Don’t get us wrong though, the Maison stresses the “all-terrain” aspect in the description, and by no means are they claiming that the H08 is an all out sports watch. This is still a timepiece from one of the premier fashion powerhouses on the planet, after all. Still, the H08 is definitely the Maison’s most accessible and wearable piece, even if its conception was mired in the brand’s usual philosophical rantings. That’s right, fashion powerhouses like Hermès tend to think of themselves “above it all,” and the conception of their latest timepiece is no exception. Which is why (according to Hermès) the enigmatic name of the Hermès H08, “hints at graphics, mathematics, and metaphysics.” And marching to the tune of this is the original font. Typical of Hermès, the font for the Arabic numerals is all new and designed specifically for this timepiece. Specifically, the font is designed to echo the design of the case. Thus, there is a physical and metaphysical play on the numbers 0 and 8, the shapes of which evoke the elements of the case. According to the Maison, the 0 embodies emptiness, while the horizontal figure 8 symbolizes infinity, “Like a journey between nothing and everything, as if echoing the mystery and depth of time.” This is also not a small watch to be sure, and at 39mm x 39mm it’s easy to understand why Hermès felt the need to categorize the H08 as a “men’s watch.” Still, the egalitarian design of the H08 is refined enough for it to easily slip into the uni-sex category, and we can imagine a lot of women wanting to wear this all-terrain alternative as a result. Beating to the rhythm of the Vaucher-based mechanical self-winding Hermès H1837 movement, the new Hermès H08 line has three large cushion-shaped variants with screw-down crowns to choose from, and the first is a doozy. It features an ultra-light graphene-filled composite case the likes of which we’ve only ever seen from über, and fellow French watchmaker Richard Mille with the ultra-expensive RM50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultra-light McLaren F1, and
here it is used again on the Hermès H08 at literally only a fraction of the price. Best of all, not only does the graphene provide a robust and sturdy base for the watch, it also provides the sleek black look essential for the model’s all-black aesthetic. This is enhanced by the satin-brushed and polished ceramic bezel that tops the case and frames the circular black gold-coated dial with black nickel-coated hands displaying the hours, minutes, central seconds. The dial itself is a study in contrasting shapes with circles within circles within the square cushion-shaped case. Even the finishing features grained and polished surfaces, the former to bring out the applied luminescent Arabic numerals in the original typeface developed specifically for the collection, and the latter to bring out the hour and inner minute track, all in contrastingly finished black, the monochrome design of which extends to the exhibition caseback (featuring
black-tinted sapphire) and the rubber strap secured by a titanium butterfly clasp. Overall a very design forward and wellexecuted dial with one glaring misstep: the date display. Not only is it positioned at the uncomfortable location of 4:30, it comes between the outer and secondary rings of the hour numerals and hour indices to ruin the perfect synchronization of concentric circles on the dial. Why do they do that, huh, why? Two other variants are also on hand and are virtually identical with the first in matte black DLC-coated titanium and the second in satinbrushed titanium. Both frame black nickelcoated dials but the black DLC-coated version gets complementing black nickel coated Arabic numerals and hands, while the satin-brushed model gets rhodium-plated Arabic numerals and hands. The satin-brushed model also gets an optional titanium bracelet, while both versions are teamed
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with a black or orange rubber strap, as well as a blue or black webbing band developed specifically for the Hermès H08 line. In addition to its ruggedness and comfort, this woven strap epitomizes a style that is as sporty as it is sophisticated. Indeed, those words “sporty” and “sophisticated” epitomize the new Hermès H08 line to a tee. And as “all-terrain,” go-anywhere, and do-anything watches go, Véronique Nichanian has certainly given us an egalitarian winner. Indeed, from the dash of orange on the tip of the seconds hand to the webbing of the strap that mirrors the texture of Hermès bags, Nichanian’s unique feminine touch is evident in every aspect of this “men’s” watch. Whatever the case, the Hermès H08 is a solid yet casual alternative to the brand’s more formal offerings and is distinct enough to distinguish itself from the other solid yet casual alternatives from the more traditional watch brands.
Feature
Jaeger-LeCoultre
PRECIOUS BLOSSOMS Beauty on both sides Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN
AMONG THE MANY WATCHES FROM JAEGER-LECOULTRE THAT WE KNOW AND LOVE IS THE REVERSO. The story itself is legendary — a fine gentleman smashed his wristwatch while playing polo then challenged a friend to create a watch strong enough to survive the intense powerful game. Gentlemen rarely retreat from a challenge, and after some time (no pun intended) conceptualizing and designing, the Reverso was born in 1931. It was the ideal combination of form, function, and style. The dial could flip, thus protecting the glass from accidental impact. This solution created an unexpected benefit – more space available for use. The extra space afforded by the flipping case has gone through many versions of decoration and ornamentation. From simple engraving in the early models to full-on diamond setting in more recent ones. The ladies versions tend to have more ornate decorations, because of course beautiful ladies deserve a beautiful timepiece. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Flowers is the perfect timepiece for 2021. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) workshop has gone the extra mile to ensure that these pretty watches will bring a bit of beauty to the day and a smile to you or your beloved. The Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) workshop employed several artistic crafts for the four Reverso One models released this year. The enameling, engraving, and gem-setting enhanced the original floral designs and resulted in watches that are sophisticated and glamorous. Engraving takes definitive movements to ensure a lively interpretation of the flower. The gentle slope of a petal or the pointed end of a leaf
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Feature
Jaeger-LeCoultre
need to be evident in the design. Enamelling is another art form altogether, and it takes years to master the skill of knowing which exact pigment to use, how long to fire it, and how many layers are needed to create the richness and depth needed to bring the design to life. Gem-setting is a fine skill too, because even the most perfect stones could be lackluster if set incorrectly. The four Reverso One Precious Flowers models are an even split between white gold and pink gold. Each case is 40mm by 20mm, and the watch is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846, a manually wound movement with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch side shows the hour and minutes, and really, that’s all you need. Each dial is elegant, with the lustrous white mother-of-pearl and elegant hour numerals. What really takes center stage is the caseback. Each one is delicate and exquisitely detailed with a flower design. The language of flowers is also incorporated into each design, with certain flowers and colors conveying different messages. Just as choosing flowers for a bouquet is an inspired task, choosing
the flower on a timepiece is too. The flowers can convey love, admiration, or grace and strength. Each flower chosen is painstakingly recreated in enamel and engraving, and for some models, there are diamonds added for extra glamor. The Reverso One Precious Flowers featuring white lilies (Ref. No. Q3293420) is in white gold and has a shiny blue alligator strap. The caseback has the elegant white lily engraving and the enameled leaves on a mother-of-pearl background, and has 335 diamonds (total of 2.44 cts). Lilies, particularly white ones, symbolize purity, devotion, and honor. I can see this watch as a wedding-day or anniversary gift. The Reverso One Precious Flowers featuring pink arums (Ref. No. Q3292430) is in pink gold and has a shiny pink alligator strap. The caseback has the pink arum flowers and gem-set leaves on black lacquer, and has 409 diamonds (total of 2.59 cts). Pink arums symbolize admiration and appreciation, and this would make a nice gift for your sister (set the bar high, gentlemen, your sisters deserve only the best).
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The Reverso One Precious Flowers featuring purple arums (Ref. No. Q3292401) is in pink gold and has a shiny green alligator strap. The caseback is fully diamond-set with the purple arums and leaves, with 626 diamonds (total of 1.98 cts). Purple arums symbolize charm and passion, and this watch would make a nice courtship gift, or a gift for a best friend. The Reverso One Precious Flowers featuring blue arums (Ref. No. Q3293401) is in white gold and has a shiny blue alligator strap. The caseback is fully diamond-set with the blue arums and leaves, with 626 diamonds (total of 1.98 cts). Blue arums symbolize grace and refinement (and are perfect with the white gold); I can see this as a ‘something blue’ for an elegant bride, with a matching pair of watches for the mother of the bride and mother of the groom. Each model in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Flowers collection released this year is a limited edition of just 10 pieces The timepieces pay homage to beautiful and strong women everywhere.
Reverso One Precious Flowers White Lilies Ref. Q3293420
Reverso One Precious Flowers Pink Arums Ref. Q3292430
Reverso One Precious Flowers Purple Arums Ref. Q3292401
Reverso One Precious Flowers Blue Arums Ref. Q3293401
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Feature Bremont
EJECT! EJECT! Bremont gives its signature pilot’s watch a robust upgrade Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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July-September 2021
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Feature Bremont
MARTIN-BAKER (MB) IS A BRITISH MANUFACTURING COMPANY KNOWN THROUGHOUT THE AVIATION INDUSTRY AS THE LEADING MANUFACTURER OF AIRCRAFT EJECTION SEATS IN THE WORLD. Originally an aircraft manufacturer, Martin-Baker was co-founded by Sir James Martin, an Irish immigrant and innovative engineer who was producing aircraft as early as 1929. And with a history spanning over 80 years, Martin-Baker is still run by the late Sir James Martin’s descendants to this day. “My grandfather was an innovative engineer who began producing aircraft in 1929,” confirmed the founder’s grandson and present MartinBaker CEO, Andrew Martin. “He always had a great desire to invent and make things with his own hands and, by dint of hard work and continuous study, was an accomplished engineer even in his teens. Whilst producing the MB1, Sir James’ friendship with Capt.Valentine Baker was established, giving birth to Martin-Baker Aircraft Company Ltd. In 1942, during a test flight of the Martin-Baker MB3 prototype, Capt. Baker was tragically killed. His death greatly affected our founder, who dedicated the rest of his life, and the future of the Martin-Baker company, towards pilot safety.” According to company records, “intrepid employee,” Bernard Lynch was the first human to volunteer to have explosives placed south of his posterior to test the first MB ejector seat prototypes. This resulted in Lynch being shot five feet into the air in the first static ejection up a specially built tower of 24th January 1945. But the size of the explosive charge only increased as Lynch conducted the first mid-flight text ejection in a specially modified Meteor 3 at 320 mph and 8000 feet in the air in July 24, 1946. Lynch obviously lived to tell the tale, and subsequently survived another 16 ejections in the name of Queen and country. Thus, in July of 1946 the first aircraft ejection seat called the “pre-MK I seat,” was born, saving the life of another test pilot three years later in the first live, non-test ejection in 1949: Royal Air Force bomber pilot John Oliver Lancaster. To date, the Martin-Baker company has saved the lives of at least 7,650 air crewmen from more than 93 Air Forces, and is the only company worldwide to offer a fully integrated escape system that satisfies the very latest in pilot operational capability and safety standards. Indeed, with facilities spanning the globe, Martin-Baker has established an extensive range of unique, specialist engineering capabilities that has led to their safety systems being used in over 80 aircraft types, and has ensured that the iconic British company is the number one choice for over 88 air forces throughout the world.
To be sure, the ejection seat represents an aircrew member’s last chance to survive and every facet of the safety system must work perfectly to safeguard the precious lives of these intrepid airmen. Furthermore, aircrew members must reach the ground uninjured, especially in a hostile environment, and this goes for the equipment they are carrying, which is where Bremont came in. Because of their love of flying historic aircraft, Nick and Giles English supposedly approached Martin-Baker during the infancy of Bremont and pitched the idea of collaborating on a timepiece to Andrew Martin. Unfortunately, Bremont hadn’t even produced a single watch at the time, and as the story goes, Martin had to explain, “We
liked the idea, but if we were going to have our name associated with a watch it clearly had to be a watch that was up to the job and had already proved its worth, so we asked them to get the brand established and then come back to us.” “In the interim, we decided to take a selection of the best-known aviation watches on the market and put them through the sort of tests and stresses that our ejection seats have to endure as a matter of course – I don't want to name the brands we tried, but I can tell you that not one of them came close to the required standard.” But Bremont did return to Martin-Baker in late 2008 to submit several prototypes for testing, and the results were, in a word, impressive. Not
July-September 2021
only did the watches survive no fewer than nine live ejections at speeds of up to 600 knots and forces of up to 30G, but the main “mule” watch was subjected to hours on a vibration device to simulate the entire service life of a military helicopter. The pieces were also housed inside a corrosive fog exposure cabinet to simulate six months on the deck of an aircraft carrier and placed inside a special heat chamber that creates variances from -40° to 48°C. This resulted in the exclusive MB-I, which is made available to only those who have survived a live ejection using a Martin-Baker seat, as well as the civilian spec MB-II, which is available for purchase by anyone. The MB-III GMT came a few years later. Considered to be Bremont’s main technical
flagship, the MB line helped establish Bremont in the brand’s earliest days by offering a modern pilot’s watch with a distinctive style and more than its fair share of shock resistance, and it has only ever been available in stainless steel, until now. Appreciating that weight means everything to a pilot, Bremont presents the MB Savanna, the first version in the model’s history to use Grade 5 Titanium. As before the MB Savanna had to endure a battery of tests before it could pass muster. These include actual Live Ejection Testing, MFOS Crashworthy Testing, Extreme Temperature Endurance, Vibration Testing, Altitude Testing and Aircraft Carrier Deck Testing. The patented Trip-Tick case of Bremont sees the MB Savanna with an upper case (including
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the bezel and lugs); caseback; and screws all made of titanium, as well as an array of updated design elements to complement the case material change. These include an anti-reflective tactical protective case surface treatment called “matte tactical coating” by Bremont; a new color palette fit for “military purpose” that extends to the rubber strap and inspired by the harsh Savanna environment and military desert-camouflage colors; and an advanced ruthenium plated skeletonized rotor for the ETA 2836-2-derived BE-36AE automatic movement with increased shock resistance from a modified automatic winding bridge. This is mounted within a patented floating inner case element to ensure shock-resistance at a level that can survive the short but savage ride of an ejection seat. Indeed, the tactile matte effect across this 43mm lightweight Special Edition is a choice influenced by both aesthetics and practicality. And true to the MB range, the Savanna model is water resistant to 10 ATM, and features an inner soft iron anti-magnetic Faraday ring to protect the movement, as well as the distinctive knurled effect on the aluminum barrel (case middle) and crowns inspired by components on the ejection seats themselves. The anthracite colored dial is just as tactical with the same Savanna grey color palette and features a patented inner bi-directional RotoClick bezel operated by the crown with the Bremont propeller logo at 4 o’clock; the yellow and black loop at the end of the seconds hand, which is a direct reference to the ejection pull handle, and another design signature of the MB Collection; and sand colored Grade XI SuperLumiNova to coat the indexes and hands. “The MB Savanna is an eye-catching piece of military candy and a fitting tribute to arguably the most successful pilot’s watch in the market used extensively by real military squadrons,” said Bremont Co-Founder Nick English. “Following the success of our MB collaboration we wanted to create a more lightweight model and put it through the full spectrum of MB testing to coincide with the development of the new MB seat programme – ensuring the next generation of the Bremont MB is more robust than ever. Along with the extensive testing done in the UK, we’re proud to say all case finishing and manufacture has also been done in the UK.” Indeed, the MB collection of watches were already some of the coolest modern pilot’s watches in the industry, the brilliant MB Savanna simply ups that ante and is definitely another feather in Bremont’s cap.
Timeframe
Legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus leads a watchmaking class in Manila back in 2009. He developed an innovative perpetual calendar module that could go on functioning correctly for more than 500 years.
Photo by Bert E. Casal
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Parallel Passion
DESIRABLE DIVERSION
A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life. - Oscar Wilde