Calibre Magazine October-December 2021

W W W. C A L I B R E M A G A Z I N E . C O M

TA G H E U E R

VOLUME 16 ISSUE 134 / OCT - DEC 2021

CONNECTED BRIGHT BLACK EDITION

HAUTE CONNECTIVITY TAG Heuer pulls all the stops on their brightest connected watch yet

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Minutes October-December 2021

Editor's words

Are we in a renaissance period for watches?

M

itja Borkert, the design head of Lamborghini, has said rather famously that we have been in the modern Renaissance period for the automobile. Are we in something similar for watches?

In its most base form, the word renaissance is often used to mean a period of renewed interest. If that is the case then definitely for watches but arguably not for cars. But a deeper definition includes the desire and effort to surpass previous standards and ideas. Yet another use of the word is in the phrase “renaissance man” which is meant to identify someone who is extremely good at many things. Think Leonardo Da Vinci.

For any one of the uses or definitions, there is no question that we are in a renaissance period of watches, and of cars, and indeed of many different things. Definitely, the interest in wristwatches has grown tremendously in the last decade. The argument against this is that you don’t need a watch to tell time when you have a phone with you all the time. But look back at the actual renaissance periods, and you will see that there was the ability to appreciate and develop past the mere utility or use of a product. New thinking and new attitudes brought forth new concepts and executions in art, in

architecture, in social structures, even in how we communicate. The last ten years, we definitely had development in how we communicate.

But back to watches. Right now you have huge interest in the “usual suspect” watches. The Rolex and Patek Philippe pieces that are so hard to get because, basically, so many people want them.

Why? Because everyone follows where the algorithms point them, which will be kind of the easiest answer for things.

What caused this? A revolution in how we communicate.

Yet at the same time there are segments of the watch industry that almost didn’t exist before, at least not at the levels they are right now. Small makers and companies and indeed people are making small runs of watches (and pens, and knives, and so on) that are not stratospherically priced but desirable nonetheless. Many of these new watches use commercial movements, which based on what the industry has told you in the last two decades or so is a big no-no. Yet remember, almost all the industry did exactly the same thing for generations. They bought calibres from ETA and Unitas and Zenith and others and created their own brand of watch around them.

These new makers want to create their vision, but in a way they can afford to do and people can afford to buy. So they will make extremely interesting

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief

carsandcalibres

2 www.calibremagazine.com

dials or wonderfully shaped and finished cases but use a commercial movement from Switzerland or Japan or elsewhere.

Many purists will shy away from these, but many also see this as a way to get wonderfully creative and well executed pieces without the price tag of big brands and their movements. And with, by the way, the easy ability to have their watches serviced.

Where else is there growth? From that big behemoth that scared the whole Swiss industry, the smart watch. There was a whole generation (or two) that just didn’t wear watches at all. Then the fitness trackers and smart watches started getting time on their wrists. And what is the logical step up then? Add to this the fact that the latest generations have been more attuned to how they look and how they express themselves than it has been for a while. Just like their bags and jeans and shoes and body art, the watch is a way to express their individuality. Their person. Their soul.

So yes. Yes to Mitja Borkert of Lamborghini and yes to those that try and do something new and yes to those that think there is more than what they used to see. We are in a world where people redefine how they define themselves, a world where sentience itself may need to be rethought.

We aren’t just in a Renaissance period of watches or of cars. We are in a renaissance period of everything.

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October-December 2021

Contents Cover Watch

C OV E R WAT C H TAG HEUER

CONNECTED

26

TAG Heuer

Raises the bar on electronic luxury

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October-December 2021

Contents Features

34

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 Watches to Wish For

42

Patek Philippe

Fortifies their position with the chronograph

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October-December 2021

Contents Features

46

Rolex

Options for men and ladies

50

A. Lange & Söhne

Bathes the ZEITWERK in a new honey golden light

54

Girard-Perregaux

The second installation of the GP-AM partnership

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October-December 2021

Contents Features

58

Panerai

Swiss precision meets German engineering

62

Glashütte Original

Continues its excellent perpetual calendar

66

Bvlgari

When minimalism meets elegance

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October-December 2021

Contents Features

70

Alpina

Watches to conquer the air and sea

74

Breitling

Heads out on the highway

78

Oris

The third installation of Big Crown Rega watches.

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October-December 2021

Contents Features

82

SINN

Becomes a denizen of Damascus

86

Urwerk

Hits the open road with the Aggregat

90

Only Watch

The One-Off Watches

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October-December 2021

Contents Regulars

02

Minutes

Carl S. Cunanan

16

Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas

18

Back to Basics

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

20

Vintage Explorer Jose Martin V. Ursúa

22

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World

96

Timeframe

Pictures in time as we travel the world

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MASTHEAD

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief

Mayette L. Asis Vice President

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher

Executive Editor Joseph Peter C. Calimbas

Advertising Manager Leslie G. Maxilom

Chairman Michael L. Lhuiller

Senior Editor Hernan C. Mapua

Advertising Traffic Manager Mary Jane O. Salazar

Managing Director Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Collections Editor Jason S. Ang

Board of Directors Michael L. Lhuiller Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco

Associate Editor Kit O. Payumo Senior Staff Writer Alberto E. Casal

Senior Accountant Merline B. Urdas

Editor-at-Large Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Credit and Collection Officer Mary Ann M. Benito

Design Director Charie L. Biaden

On The Cover

Senior Designer Mark David A. See

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. 14th floor , 88 Corporate Center, 141 Valero corner Sedeño St., Salcedo Village Makati City 1227 Philippines Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 Visit: www.calibremagazine.com

Designer Mary Ann E. Marcelo Contributing Writers Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich Santos Dominique O. Cerqueda

Legal Counsel Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office

Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition Volume 16 Issue 134 October-December 2021

#5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City Tel: (+632) 7945-5089

Contributing Photographer Keith Sundiang @calibremagazineph

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Copyright © 2021 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.

Calibre 134

Tempus Incognitum October-December 2021

Buyer Beware!

T

he secondary market has experienced an exponential growth in recent years and with it, the proliferation of replica (AKA fake) watches have also experienced some sort of renaissance.

Thanks in part to the substantial uptick of online sales, several marketing studies have reported that as much as 40 million fake watches are sold around the world annually with sales reaching USD$1 Billion.

Unless you can purchase a timepiece from an AD or from a trusted source, there will always be a chance one can fall victim to a clone of the genuine article particularly with the so-called “superfakes,” watches that seem to mimic even the minutest detail of the original.

It would seem that the makers of such can now forge up to certain extent the

security features that brands have put in place to identify theirs as real versus the copycats. As for the hand movement, clones are now able to replicate the smooth and precise sweep of the hands that used to be a surefire way to spot a fake. Unless you open the back case or spot the shabby finish through an open caseback, it will be pretty difficult to spot a fake. Even the papers and accompanying documentation have been copied to match the real deal. Probably the biggest tell would be their texture, font and ink consistency.

One would argue that there is a silver lining to this in that there is no longer a need to get the real one with fakes being so close to the original enough (they are not cheap to with some getting into the mid-tier watch prices) to fool people.

To this we say: JUST NO. You are only

JP C. Calimbas Executive editor

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fooling yourself. There is no place for fakes whether watches, mobile phones, Airpods (these are literally everywhere) or even underwear. Just no. One importer of prized German wheels printed out stickers that sums it up best: F**k Your Fake Wheels.”

At the end of the day, the only way for fake merch to go away is for consumers to cease patronizing them. When people get over the mentality that a fake Rolex is better than strapping on a genuine but lower priced watch (I deliberately avoided citing an example).

We are well into holiday shopping season and with the economy opening up, everyone is in a spending mood.

Hopefully, you can keep safe health-wise and wallet-wise.

Have a great end to 2021 and hope to see you in 2022, in print form or digital form.

Calibre 134

Back to Basics October-December 2021

Christmas and COVID

I

t’s that time of the year again.

Christmas season is in full swing, and while we’re busy preparing for that special day, we also can’t help but look back at everything that’s happened this past year. It was a year full of ups and downs for the entire world — even for the watch industry.

According to Merriam-Webster, the consensus ‘Word of the Year’ is something so ubiquitous in daily life during this 2nd year of the pandemic: vaccine. It’s a word that carries many emotions and implications, and literally changed the lives and fortunes of numerous countries throughout the world.

While lockdowns were the prevalent theme of 2020, this year it was all about gradually opening up the economy by vaccination (and its corresponding effect on the number of COVID cases for a particular location).

This year we’ve seen different countries open their borders and welcome visitors again. To some extent, people have started to accept that learning to live with COVID is the only practical solution in our current reality of pandemic living.

Even in our own shores, people who initially

retreated to their homes at the start of this pandemic last year have also started to go out and try to look for some semblance of normalcy in these highly irregular times.

It hasn’t been all roses this year, with COVID surges and waves now part and parcel of this new reality. However, watch enthusiasts are nothing but resilient. The world (and the watch industry) survived with online shopping last year, yet things are a bit better this time around. Many collectors supplemented their virtual purchases this year with actual visits to watch stores. Even some watch groups restarted having traditional physical meet ups in some parts of the world.

What does 2022 have in store for the watch world? Most likely more of the same ups and downs. Europe is now experiencing another COVID wave, and some countries are thinking of imposing new lockdowns once again as cases surge in their part of the world. Despite this, people will still look forward and (virtually) attend next year’s Watches and Wonders.

Enthusiasts will still buy online, and even some will risk life and limb to physically go to an authorized dealer and buy their next grail watch in the middle of a pandemic.

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large

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Calibre 134

Vintage Explorer October-December 2021

Live, Die, Bond Again

I

t’s been a rough couple of years for the entertainment industry, with fear and lockdowns keeping movie theatres empty. Big cinematic events are rare, but one of the most anticipated films of the year was No Time to Die, which is both the 25th James Bond outing and Daniel Craig’s final go as 007. Every new Bond movie since Goldeneye has been accompanied by its own Omega Seamaster, and this time is no different.

Allow me to simultaneously review both NTTD and the Seamaster 300M Diver 007 Edition, as they are far more intertwined than previous tie-ins.

The No Time to Die Seamaster was first announced in December 2019, just a few months before the world turned upsidedown. There would be a nearly two-year gap before its namesake was released. The watch’s design was a bit of a surprise: For his first four adventures, Daniel Craig mostly wore various Planet Oceans and Aqua Terrae. Then for Spectre, he switched to a special edition of the 50s-retro Seamaster 300, which also played a critical role in the plot i.e. it exploded! Perhaps this explains the all-new watch in NTTD, one that references several eras of Bond, and more.

I see the NTTD Seamaster as a kitchensink design with too many inspirations.

There may not be 007 logos perched on the second hand, or spiral rifling grooves all over the dial and caseback, but I believe more subtlety would have helped. It takes the same basic case and face as the Seamaster 300M popularized

by Pierce Brosnan — good start. It then appears to take cues from 1) the Goldfinger Submariner, via its striped fabric strap, 2) the British military W.W.W., with which it shares the “Broad Arrow” mark, and 3) the Rolex 1680 “Red Sub,” which set the trend for red text on dials. What pushes the watch over the top is the heavy use of beige lume and markings. It’s a jarring choice for what is essentially a 1990s design. Either white, or the pale yellow of the Spectre Seamaster, would have been more appropriate and visually pleasing.

I mostly enjoyed No Time to Die the movie, though large parts of it were unsatisfying and sloppily written. I also have serious misgivings about its final act. (Spoilers!) In a towering act of narcissism, it seems that Daniel Craig wanted the end of his run to be paired with the unprecedented on-screen death of James Bond. I found it an unearned, contrived, and ultimately selfish bit of mythologizing. When he says his last emotional farewell, it felt completely out of character for the Bond we’ve known since 1962’s Dr. No. That was Daniel Craig talking, but it was James Bond who

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

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was engulfed by the fireball. This makes for great press, but it leaves the makers of the next film (for Bond WILL return) in a bind that they’ll need to write themselves out of. (Or ignore entirely.) Bond’s demise follows a depressingly common trend in entertainment these days. The current stewards of a long-running franchise will write a story that elevates their creation over everything that came before, usually while deconstructing and diminishing past heroes. Just look at Star Wars, Star Trek, Dr.Who, and many others.

James Bond dying casts doubt on the nature of the long-running and beloved character, which may be the malicious motive of the writers in 2021.

But let’s get back to the NTTD Seamaster, and what I believe to be its greatest sin: It is a massive plot hole. Per Q’s instructions, twisting the watch’s He valve would activate an EMP emitter that destroys electronics. In fact, Bond uses this feature to dispose of the bionic-eyed henchman, Primo. However, Bond chooses death because his blood is infested with nanobots that would kill his loved ones with a single touch. Are nanobots electronic devices, or were the writers being lazy? Yes and yes. Positively shocking.

October-December 2021

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

CARTIER

THE SEVEN WONDERS OF CARTIER Why the Tank is simply a Must

M

aking its debut in 1976, Les Must de Cartier is a more accessible line of the original Cartier Tank that, for many, opened the door to the previously unattainable Cartier experience. Indeed, with its colorful lacquered dials that did away with the Tank’s signature railway track and Roman numerals, the Cartier Must de Tank was an instant best seller with many of the original models remaining collectible to this day often selling for more than $1,000.00.

“The Must watches are part of the Maison’s heritage and legend,” says Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage at Cartier. “They have withstood the test of time thanks to their instantly recognizable style, but also their excellent craftsmanship, which Cartier applies to all its creations right down to the smallest detail.”

The Extra-large model of the Tank Must powered by the 1847 MC manufacture automatic mechanical movement with the date at 6 o'clock.

The watch of artistic royalty as well as actual royalty, the Cartier Tank has indeed been unstoppable over the years, and has been seen on the wrists of many prominent individuals including movie stars Clark Gable, Fred Astaire, and Rudolph Valentino, whose Tank Cintrée made its movie debut when he wore it in his final film, The Son of the Sheik in 1926.

Other fans of the Tank include Princess Diana, First Ladies Michelle Obama and Jackie Kennedy whose Tank Ordinaire was gifted to her by her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw “Stas” Radziwill in 1962, and would later break the record for the most expensive Cartier Tank ever auctioned, selling for $379,500.00 in June of 2017.

Even Andy Warhol was inseparable from his Tank, who wore it not for its intended purpose but for the statement it made. “I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time,” Warhol is famous for saying. “Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear.”

So iconic is the design of the Cartier Tank, in fact, that for 2021, the Cartier Design Studio saw fit to rework Louie Cartier’s classic design and create the new Tank Must, Cartier’s latest essential timepiece that remains faithful to…well, all the historic Tank models.

The Large Tank Louis Cartier models above, which incorporate the blue and red colors that are so indelible to Cartier's DNA.

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With its beautifully proportioned rectangular case and rounded angles, the new Tank Must takes direct inspiration from the Tank Louis Cartier, considered the "definitive" Tank model from 1922. It is available in an extra-large model with the 1847 MC manufacture automatic mechanical movement, with large and small models powered by quartz movements. All feature the signature rounded brancards, revisited dial proportions, precious pearled cabochon winding crowns, interchangeable steel bracelets with curved links, and the return of a traditional ardillon buckle on the black grained leather strap versions.

Further the large and small models also come with cases set with brilliant-cut diamonds: 0.48ct for the former, and 0.39ct for the latter, and can be fitted with optional non-animal leather straps in black, blue and light green colors, which are composed of 40% plant matter made from apples (that’s right, apples).

Most importantly, these Tank Must quartz models can also be equipped with the latest photovoltaic dials. Two years in development at the Cartier Manufacture at La Chauxde-Fonds, the photovoltaic principle uses the particular aesthetic of the Tank dial via the delicate and invisible perforation of the Roman numerals. These openings allow solar energy to energize the SolarBeat movement, which has an average lifespan of 16 years freeing the user from ever changing the batteries in that time.

The monochrome versions of the 1980s also make a comeback with three large models that are free from traditional watchmaking codes, opting instead for elegant simplicity.

Colored in hues indelible with the Cartier DNA, these red, blue, and green steel watches once again eschew traditional Roman numerals and “railway” minute tracks in favor of colored minimalist dials with matching straps for the full chromatic look. All three models boast autonomy of at least 8 years with the latest high-efficiency quartz movements.

Last but not least, is the reintroduction of the Tank Louis Cartier. Designed and introduced in 1917, the original Tank was reworked by Louie Cartier in 1922 to feature an elongated case, softer edges and refined brancards. This year, the Tank L.C. (Louis

The monochrome versions that are making a comeback from the 80s with three large models that are the epitome of elegant simplicity

Cartier) cultivates its timeless elegance in color, specifically in the blue and red that are so indelible to Cartier’s DNA. These large size models are powered by the manually-wound 1917 MC Manufacture movement, and feature cases in 18K yellow gold for the red model, and 18K pink gold for the blue version. Both models also feature gold detailed dials with matching colored highlights to enhance their graphic intensity, as well as matching colored alligator leather straps.

The Cartier Tank is an iconic design masterpiece that has been in production far longer than most other watches have been. And if for some reason you still aren’t convinced of the Tank’s indelible mark in fashionable history, here are seven reasons to embrace the new Tank Must: 01 It takes us back to the years of Must,

The Large blue Tank Louis Cartier for him...

...And the Small Tank Must Watch for her.

The large and small models of the Tank Must Watch with cases set with brilliant-cut diamonds: 0.48ct for the large model, and 0.39ct for the small.

which were synonymous with a period of festive hedonism that hasn't been experienced since.

02 It truly is “the watch to wear,” at least, according to Andy Warhol, who happened to be the godfather of pop culture.

03 The Tank Must is undeniably a design icon and is the watch of aesthetes, the simplicity of which is the ultimate mark of elegance.

04 The Tank Must is truly a watch without gender and can easily be worn by both men and women.

05 It is a return to great classicism, right down to the smallest details such as the pearled cabochon winding crown.

06 It captures the zeitgeist, perfectly in touch with its time and capable of storing light in its photovoltaic version.

07 Last but not least, the Tank Must is also innovative and has adopted a strap not made from animal materials but from 40% plant matter.

Indeed, the Cartier Tank is an original design tour de force that hasn't changed much since Louie Cartier sculpted its indelible lines more than a century ago. It is so iconic, that it has only grown more timeless over the decades, which only strengthens the argument that the Cartier Tank is most definitely a Must.

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The Wind-Up

TUDOR

UNDERWATER NAVIGATOR

TUDOR creates a special model that rekindles their years with the French Navy

T

he TUDOR Pelagos FXD differentiates itself from the rest of the brand’s offerings because of two unique features developed in conjunction with a special unit of the French Navy. The first are the fixed strap bars that are machined directly into the body of its 42mm case; and the second is its bidirectional 120-notch rotating

bezel with retrograde graduation from 60 to 0.

The former ensures increased robustness and reliability, and are shaped as an extension of the lugs making them key to the FXD’s characteristic silhouette; while the latter does not correspond to the ISO 6425:2018 standard for diver’s watches, but instead are designed to meet the specific needs of “underwater navigation,” a specialty of combat divers, and a particular requirement of the French Navy.

Indeed, TUDOR attained the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961 after the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), the scientific body attached to the French Navy based in Toulon, evaluated two TUDOR timepieces for waterproofness and “real-life situations” in 1956. At the time, the G.E.R.S. commanding officer deemed the TUDOR

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watches to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct.” This allowed the Genevan watchmaker to continually supply and develop specialized timepieces for the French Navy for almost two decades.

This included the famous Reference 9401 with its iconic blue dial and bezel, and the initials “M.N.” (Marine nationale) engraved on its caseback. Followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: the first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers, and the second, with triangular hour markers. This latter model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.

And although TUDOR has not supplied the French Navy with timepieces for some

twenty years now, TUDOR has re-joined forces with Marine nationale (French Navy) in 2021, re-igniting an historic relationship that dates back to 1956. And to commemorate this new association the brand has released the TUDOR Pelagos FXD, a model that brings back many of the features co-developed with the French Navy all those many years ago.

The color palette of the Pelagos FXD is thus, naturally, blue and has the characteristic square “Snowflake” hour markers and angular hands, which were introduced in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. It also features the aforementioned bi-directional, retrograde, rotating bezel with a sandblasted ceramic insert (also in blue) with luminescent material. Its 42 mm titanium case is waterproof to 200 meters and is entirely satinbrushed to produce a matte effect to limit light reflections. To highlight the watch’s official character, its case back once again bears the logo of the Marine nationale brand composed of an anchor topped with a sailor’s hat, as well as the historically inspired engraving of “M.N.21,” which stands for “Marine nationale 2021.”

Inside the Pelagos FXD ticks the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, which has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision. It features a variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge affixed at two-points.

This, along with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, assured its certification as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation of between -4 and +6 seconds in the daily running of a watch, TUDOR insists on only a -2 and +4 seconds’ variation when the watch is completely assembled.

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 also happens to be “weekend-proof” with an average power reserve of 70 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it. Finished in typical TUDOR fashion, its tungsten monobloc rotor is openworked and satin-brushed with sandblasted details; while its bridges and plate have alternate sandblasted and polished surfaces with laser etching.

And did we mention the French Navy had their TUDOR watches delivered without

bracelets or straps? That’s right, the Navy fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. Which is why TUDOR now supplies the Pelagos FXD with its own specialized fabric strap.

This new, highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR with the Julien Faure Company, which not coincidentally, also fares from the St-Etienne region of France. Founded in 1864, the French company specializing in 19th century Jacquard looms has for many years woven decorative ribbons bearing the names of French Navy ships, which formed an integral part of the

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legendary bachi, the red pompom hat worn by French sailors and quartermasters.

Adapted for the rugged nature of the French Navy divers’ work, the technical strap is made up of a 22mm navy blue polyethylene woven ribbon with a silver central thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system, which can be easily adapted to different wrist sizes and is very comfortable to wear.

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD also comes with an additional one-piece rubber strap with an embossed motif and buckle, and is the first time that this type of supple, and comfortable strap is being offered by TUDOR.

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C OV E R WAT C H TAG HEUER

CONNECTED

THE BLACK THE GOLD AND

TAG HEUER PRESENTS THEIR MOST SOPHISTICATED SMARTWATCH YET

Word s b y

KIT 0. PAYUMO

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C OV E R C O VC EH R WAT WAT CH Jaeger-LeCoultre TAG HEUER REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CONNECTED CALIBRE 185

R

emember the black and gold “John Player Special” color scheme of the Lotus F1 team back in the 1970s and early 80s? Remember how cool it was then, and how iconic it still is now? Aren’t you getting that tingly feeling of nostalgia, and that nagging feeling that, despite the wild overall excesses of 70s and the 80s, things were somehow better back then? Well, the black and gold color scheme is back in (of all things) TAG Heuer’s most sophisticated smartwatch yet. And if the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based watchmaker wanted their smartwatch to look more like a high-end mechanical wristwatch, well, they couldn’t have done a better job.

That’s right, in perfect timing with the holidays, the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based watchmaker is out to make things “better” by updating its popular TAG Heuer Connected watch, which originally made its bows in 2015, and transforming it into something more palatable to the watch connoisseur. With this third generation special edition, the brand has opted to work with very non-pedestrian materials such as titanium and ceramic. And by going as far as complementing it with genuine leather straps, TAG Heuer has given their smartwatch a new lease on life (as if it even needed it), and has transformed the already stylish and high-tech TAG Heuer Connected into something that even a watch snob cannot ignore.

The TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition, is an exclusive special edition that sees the smartwatch receive some exclusive and luxurious flourishes by giving pride of place to two colors that have traditionally gone very well together: black and gold. And it isn’t just an update in materials and finishing, TAG Heuer has gone the extra mile by giving the digital interface of the Bright Black Edition an upgrade as well, and this includes a brand spanking new dial called Eclipse.

True, the concept of an ultra sophisticated smartwatch may be anathema to most mechanical watch snobs, but the idea isn’t nearly as abhorrent as they would hope, at least, not for the rest of the world. Just take a gander at Apple’s collaborations with Hermès for the Apple Watch; or Montblanc’s fast-growing Summit line; not to mention the near-endless smartwatch iterations

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from Samsung, Garmin, Fitbit, Oppo, Huawei, and Suunto; or even the fashion smartwatch from Fossil, considered to be one of the best Wear OS smartwatches around. Whatever you may ultimately think of the smartwatch these, and a host of other examples, emphasize that it isn’t going anywhere anytime soon; a fact that isn’t lost to the watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Which is why to blow the rest of them out of the water, the new TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition smartwatch has gone the highend, sophisticated route by sporting a 45mm microbeaded case now forged from grade-2 Titanium. And that isn’t even the half of it: it’s also been sandblasted and coated with a deep black DLC finish to achieve what the brand calls a “Black Titanium” look.

To be fair, we’ve seen TAG Heuer hew its 45mm case from titanium and coated in black PVD before. In fact, we’ve seen this combined with a bold ceramic bezel in 2017’s TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45. But this is the first time we’ve seen this elegant matte black finish (which is also applied to the watch clasp) paired with a contrasting and highly mirror polished black ceramic bezel, which for all intents and purposes is the crowning glory of the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition. And that's because this time it is set off by graduations and markings in gold, gold-colored lacquer to be more specific, which are the same highlights echoed on the black DLC-coated pushers and crown. Say what you will of the color palette, but it undoubtedly adds elegance and sophistication to the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition.

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THE NEW TAG HEUER CONNECTED BRIGHT BLACK EDITION SMARTWATCH HAS GONE THE HIGH END, SOPHISTICATED ROUTE BY SPORTING A 45MM MICRO BEADED CASE FORGED FROM GRADE-2 TITANIUM...

SANDBLASTED AND COATED WITH A DEEP BLACK DLC FINISH TO ACHIEVE WHAT THE BRAND CALLS “BLACK TITANIUM”

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C OV E R WAT C H TAG HEUER

CONNECTED

In fact, with such sophisticated nuances, it’s easy to mistake the Connected Bright Black Edition for any number of high-end mechanical watches (provided it has on the drop dead gorgeous “Eclipse” watch face, of course – more on that later). Indeed, watches with the same color scheme such as the steel and gold Tudor Black Bay Chrono; Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold and black ceramic; and the rare vintage Rolex Cosmograph Daytona JPS, come to mind.

And as we previously mentioned, TAG Heuer didn’t stop at just aesthetic upgrades, they insisted the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition walked the walk too. Which is why, according to the watchmaker, the interface of the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition has been enhanced with “some beautiful new features.” Premier of which is the new specialedition-only “Eclipse” dial.

Again, to be fair, the Eclipse dial will be made available to all third generation TAG Heuer Connected watch owners in four different colors with subtle highlights: blue, red, green, and turquoise. Available in silver tone for the TAG Heuer Connected core collection, the special edition differentiates itself with an Eclipse dial customized with appropriately golden highlights to perfectly match the standout casing of the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition.

In addition, six of the most popular TAG Heuer Connected watch faces have also received the “Midas touch” to seamlessly coordinate with the special edition colors. This means the Helios, Classic and Porsche dials have been elegantly reimagined with gold elements to be more in tune with the design of the watch. Best of all, TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition wearers will have access to many perfectly matched dial combinations including the Synopsis, and Timekeeping dials from the core collection reworked to be paired with the golden accents of the new piece; and we haven’t even mentioned the Orbital and Heuer 02 dials, which already offer complementary colors within their wide range of personalization options.

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C OV E R WAT C H TAG HEUER

CONNECTED

These options extend to the watchstraps as well, with the incorporation of three new and interchangeable leather straps. Comfortable and wholly appropriate to the sporting vocation of the TAG Heuer Connected, these straps incorporate a resistant rubber base and are elevated by a soft calfskin leather covering in sporty chic blue, natural golden brown, and, of course, the classic and timeless black. Of the three, the black leather strap suits the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition best but all straps will be made available to meet every wearer’s unique taste.

As before, this third generation TAG Heuer Connected has been manufactured in the purest of watchmaking traditions. It embodies both elegance, with top-of-the-range materials and sophisticated finishes, and technological expertise to offer an almost-bespoke performance oriented experience.

Remarkably versatile, the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition goes hand in hand with everyday life with 50 meters of water resistance; connectivity that includes Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and

GPS; and access to a variety of connected services via Wear OS by Google.

Unparalleled sports experiences via the TAG Heuer Sport app is also (naturally) available.

This was not only developed in-house, but also provides detailed data on the wearer’s performance in a wide range of activities such as running, swimming, cycling, walking and fitness. Golfers will also appreciate the recent improvements to the TAG Heuer Golf app, which will help them refine and improve their game strategy. Last but not least, the new Wellness function enables users to stay in shape and provides feedback on changes in their biometric data during daily exercise.

Not exactly a limited edition, the TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Edition has been available in limited quantities at TAG Heuer boutiques worldwide since September 22, 2021, as well as on the brand’s e-commerce website. The brand hasn’t revealed exactly how many TAG Heuer Connected Bright Black Editions are being produced, but they are there, just in time for the holidays.

Features October-December 2021

Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 T H E

W I N N E R S

L I S T

Wo rd s b y

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN NOVEMBER IS ALWAYS AN EXCITING MONTH. THE END OF THE YEAR IS NEAR, CHRISTMAS IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER. But for the horology world, November this year meant the much-awaited Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize list, and even more sought-after “Aiguille d’Or” distinction, also known as best in show.

The awards night was held on November 4, 2021, and honored watchmaking excellence and

creativity and also marked the 20th anniversary of the GPHG. Hosted by French actor, director, and screenwriter Edouard Baer, the evening saw the awarding of 18 trophies that the 30-member jury deliberated on, plus the Special Jury Prize.

As announced in September of this year, Nick Foulkes, international authority on art, culture, and watchmaking, would lead the jury.

All nominated watches were on display at

the Musée Rath in Geneva until November 14, 2021. An added attraction is that the 20 previous “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix winners were also on display. Oh to be a fly on the wall at this event! In case Geneva wasn't on your travel list, you can also catch the winning watches for 2021 on display in Dubai, for the Dubai Watch Week (November 24 to 28) and in Paris (December 2 to 5).

Let us feast our eyes on this year’s winners:

Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO of Bulgari); Hind Seddiqi (Director General of Dubai Watch Week); Lititia Zhang Berruex (Representative of CIGA design in Switzerland); Eric Pirson (Director of Tudor); Jean Arnault (Marketing and Product Development Director, Watches, Louis Vuitton); Frédéric Bondoux (President of Grand Seiko Europe); François-Henry Bennahmias (CEO of Audemars Piguet); Benjamin Comar (CEO of Piaget); Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Co-president of Chopard); Eric de Rocquigny (International Operations & Métiers Director of Van Cleef & Arpels); Maximilian Büsser (Owner & Creative Director of MB&F); Julien Tornare (CEO of Zenith); Pierre Jacques (CEO of De Bethune); Daniël et Maria Reintjes (Owners and creative directors of Christiaan Van Der Klaauw); Andrea Furlan et Hamad Al Marri (Co-founders of Furlan Marri); Benjamin Comar (CEO of Piaget); Bernhard Lederer (Watchmaker & CEO of Lederer Watches), Carine Maillard and Raymond Lorean (GPHG)

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October-December 2021

AIGUILLE D’OR GRAND PRIX

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Why not start with a bang and lead with the Grand Prix watch? This prestigious award goes to Bvlgari, for their Octo Finissimo watch.

The “Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix” is well-deserved by this octagonalshaped titanium watch. The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is the slimmest watch in the world, and has the hours, minutes, and the perpertual calendar functions.

Perhaps what sealed the deal for this watch was that although there are several displays on the dial (retrograde-display date, day, month and retrograde-display leap years), the watch still looks clean and neat. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 60 hours. The 2.75mm calibre required the engineers to use a micro-rotor and optimize the space without sacrificing anything. Bvlgari rose to the challenge and the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo is a fitting winner of the Grand Prix.

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Feature

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021

LADIES WATCH PRIZE

MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZE

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow The Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow by Piaget is a delicate and delightful watch in pink gold. The self-winding mechanical watch is a reinterpretation of a vintage design from the 1970s, but the most enamoring part of this watch is the bezel and asymmetric lugs accented with sapphires and tsavorites. The combination of pink gold and the rainbow of gems is both elegant and playful.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic Lest we think Piaget only focuses on the ladies, here’s a reminder that they do quite well in other categories too. The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic is a combination of white gold and the Piaget blue — and believe me, this watch is gorgeous. The ultra-thin watch has an intricate openwork design with a perfectly clean aesthetic.

As expected of an Altiplano, this watch has the alternating double and single indexes and the off-center hour and minute display. The aesthetic is modern and ingenious.

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October-December 2021

LADIES’ COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Watch

Van Cleef & Arpels has stunned us again, this time with their Lady Féerie watch. The self-winding mechanical watch gives an innocent and playful rendition of a dainty fairy set against a beautiful blue dial. The fairy is dressed in sapphire and diamonds, dutifully watching over the VC&A Poetry of Time, with the fairy’s wand pointing to the minutes, while the hour is visible by the fairy’s knees. The white gold case and leather strap allow you to focus on the artisanship on the dial. Van Cleef & Arpels has combined guilloche, plique-à-jour, and grisaille enamel to create a work of art any lady would love. The case has slightly rounded sapphire glass allowing more light to illuminate the dainty fairy.

MEN’S COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE

MB&F LMX Titanium

The LMX Titanium from MB&F is a vision in symmetry and green, a wonderful watch to celebrate 10 years of the Legacy Machine. This watch has the expected 2 dials – each displaying the time. But there is the unexpected too, because the dials are tilted, which necessitated, “the transfer of energy from horizontal to vertical planes thanks to conical gears.” The bespoke balance wheel offers greater accuracy, and partners well with the watch’s threedimensional display. The symmetry of the watch is also visible through the sapphire caseback.

ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZE

MB&F LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around the Workd in Eighty Days’

MEN’S WATCH PRIZE

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5 The Grand Seiko HiBeat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5 is all steel and modern but has a gentle nod to nature with the textured dial inspired by the white birch trees that surround the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. The Caliber 9SA5 was released as part of Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary, and provides both power and precision. The movement is both efficient and beautifully finished.

The hands and hour markers provide added legibility. The watch design stays true to the Grand Seiko Style, defined in 1967 and adhered to ever since.

The MB&F’s next watch to take a prize this year is the LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around the World in Eighty Days.’ The watch has the expected symmetry and while the previously mentioned LMX looks futuristic, this watch pays homage to the past. Eddy Jaquet, master engraver, has the magical touch and can bring a story to life even on the dial of a watch. In this case (no pun intended), Jules Verne’s “Around the World in Eighty Days” served as the inspiration for this watch, with Jaquet engraving directly on the mainplate, gently yet deliberately creating a scene. The color palette and pink gold case add to the old-world look of the timepiece, and the blue hands add just the right touch of contrast.

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Feature

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021

CALENDAR AND ASTRONOMY WATCH PRIZE

ICONIC WATCH PRIZE

Christiaan Van Der Klaauw CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin from Audemars Piguet is a platinum watch with a deep green dial. The sunburst pattern on the smoked green dial gives an appearance of depth.

This combination has not been used previously with the 15202, and we sort of wonder why, since it is visually striking. The self-winding mechanical watch has the Manufacture Calibre 2121, with a 22-carat oscillating weight. The watch is 8.1mm in thickness and looks sleek on the wrist. The hands have been treated with luminescent coating, making it easier to tell time in a dark space.

The Audemars Piguet signature is just below the 12, while the AP initials are just north of the 6, adding to the visual balance.

“Reach for the moon and if you miss, at least you land among the stars.”

Thanks to the CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga

by Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, you won’t even strain yourself reaching for the stars because you can have a planetarium on your wrist. Yes, your very own planetarium, the smallest mechanical heliocentric planetarium in the world, on your wrist. The watch honors Mr. Eise Eisinga who built a planetarium in his living to prove that planets were not on a collision course with each other.

Look closely at the dial and you’ll see the small planetarium at the 6 o’clock — with the real time orbits of mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. This pink gold case with a hand-painted dial and leather strap is a limited series of just 6 pieces.

TOURBILLON WATCH PRIZE

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon Any tourbillon is impressive and more so when it is encompassed in a watch that can spin, well, like a tourbillon might. The DB Kind of Two Tourbillon from De Bethune is that watch. It has a titanium case that is reversible and thus, has two faces. So it’s like you get two watches in one. The first dial is sleek and contemporary with central hands and the tourbillon at the 6 o’clock. The deltoid-shaped bridge cements the modern look, and makes me think of sci-fi stories. The second dial has a more traditional feel, with a guilloche detail, though the tourbillon is not visible. The watch is elegant and gives you an easy way to pivot between the two faces.

CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZE

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

The Chronomaster Sport from Zenith is a sleek and strong watch, in a handsome steel case. The white lacquered dial has three subdials, each with a different color of blue, anthracite, and grey. The black ceramic bezel is polished and graduated in color, adding to the very cool-tothe-eye color palette. The watch comes with two strap options, an integrated steel bracelet or a textured rubber strap. Powered by the new high-frequency El Primero 3600 calibre, the Chronomaster Sport offers greater performance and precision while looking amazing.

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October-December 2021

DIVER’S WATCH PRIZE

JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZE

Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver Skyline Blue

Chopard Flower Power

The Tambour Street Diver from Louis Vuitton is a great diver’s watch. It continues the LV foray into things horological that began in 2002. The shape of the watch was taken from a drum and has become easily recognizable. The watch is built to survive different environments, may they be at the beach, or the gym, or back at the office. The watch is vibrant, with the shiny steel case and the sunray navy blue dial with a touch of light blue from 1 to 3 o’clock. The two-tone rubber strap adds to the sportiness. The internal rotating bezel allows the case to be clean to the eye, just like all Tambour watches. Keen eyes will spot the V on the minute hand and on the diving scale, and when these are aligned, they create an X. A nod to the sea perhaps, as X marks to spot, in this case, the start of your dive adventure.

The Flower Power watch from Chopard is simply dazzling.

Coming from the Maison’s Red Carpet Collection, this is one show-stopping sparkling watch with pink sapphires and diamonds.

Caroline Scheufele envisioned this Paradise-themed watch as reminiscent of the Garden of Eden – abundant, beautiful, and fanciful; a fitting creation for the 74th Cannes Film Festival when Chopard was an official partner. The beauty here goes beyond the surface though, because the white gold used has been Fairminedcertified, evidence of Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury.

This is a 1-piece limited series from Chopard.

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Feature

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021

AUDACITY PRIZE

HOROLOGICAL REVELATION PRIZE

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem

Furlan Marri Mr. Grey Ref. 1041-A

The beauty of a fascinating concept or design is that it lends itself to different iterations and reinterpretations. Such is the case with the Louis Vuitton Tambour, this time in the Carpe Diem model. It is indeed miles away from the Diver we just looked at it, but it is proof positive that despite having only started in horology in 2002, LV has stretched their artistic muscles effectively. The Tambour Carpe Diem creates a jacquemart on the wrist, with such detail and playfulness. Jacquemarts were originally automata for striking the hours on a churchbell. On this watch, the fun begins with the press of a button that lead a snake and skull to indicate the time.

The button activates the snakehead to reveal the hours on the skull forehead, while the rattlesnake tail moves to point to the minutes.

Both the dial and skull have the LV pattern, if you closely. The black alligator strap and folding buckle complement the pink gold case and dial well, and the whole watch would be suited for a pirate king.

This steel watch with a leather strap has a classic look to it, but it belies the truth behind the story. The brand was founded one year ago. Yes, you read that right, just one year ago. Andrea Furlan partnered with Hamad Al Marri to create this Mecha-Quartz chronograph. True to modern times, the first model was bankrolled by crownfunding, and in the middle of a pandemic at that. The Mr. Grey has the hours, minutes, and chronograph function, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. Considering this watch was been launched within just a year of the brand’s founding, Furlan Marri is definitely a team to watch.

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October-December 2021

INNOVATION PRIZE

“PETITE AIGUILLE” PRIZE

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic not only looks imposing and impressive, it is so. The 41mm case has a domed matte black dial with applied our markers.

The hallmark “Snowflake” hands have been used in Tudor diving watches since 1969, and the shape plus the luminescent treatment make it easier to tell the time. The Black Bay Ceramic has Master Chronometer certification, meaning it is Swiss made, has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) shows precision at two temperatures, six positions, and at both 100% power or 33% power. It can withstand an exposure to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and is waterproof to 200 meters. This impressive nearly all-black watch has a power reserve of 70 hours.

Ten years of hard work, focus, and dedication has resulted in the Central Impluse Chronometer from Bernhard Lederer.

The 44mm white gold watch with a leather strap is refined and elegant. The dial is a combination of a traditional dial with a little bit of openwork for the two small seconds. Each dial is treated slightly differently, and the difference makes the watch more interesting to look at. The Calibre 9012 uses a double gear train, a double remontoire, and a peerless escapement. The structure has a single crown leading to a pair of gear trains. The escapement is reliable and stable, with two anchor wheels working alternately.

An especially intriguing touch is this: the two seconds hands are in constant synchronicity. The Besançon Observatory and COSC have certified the Calibre 9012 as a chronometer.

Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

CHALLENGE WATCH PRIZE

CIGA Design Blue Planet

The Blue Planet from CIGA Design is a challenge, in a very good way.

It challenges us to think outside the box because when you look at the dial and search for the hands, you don’t see them.

What you do see the mariner symbol that will point to the hour chapter and the rotating minute chapter ring, giving you the time. The ocean and earth have been recreated on this watch though intricate carving, even showing the real altitude of the terrain. The watch also challenges us to take better of our planet. We’ve all felt the world change due to the pandemic, and this watch, with the earth and ocean depicted on the dial, reminds us to take care of our home. This watch is a limited series of 50 pieces.

SPECIAL JURY PRIZE

Dubai Watch Week And the Special Jury Prize goes to Dubai Watch Week. The Special Jury Prize goes to a personality or institution within the horology world. Dubai Watch Week (November 24 to 28) will have multiple brands on exhibit, and offer special masterclasses to participate in. Want to polish your drawing skills, or perhaps try your hand at creating a finishing brush? Maybe you want to paint your own watch dial, or delve into the common ground between watch and car design. The Horology Forum will be a space for leaders to come together and discuss insight and opinion while focusing on things both in and out of the world of horology. Dubai Watch Week is the place to be for all this and more.

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October-December 2021

CONTINUITY Patek Philippe is at its peak with three new versions of their most recognized complication Wo rd s b y

FOR AS LONG AS MOST PEOPLE CAN REMEMBER, PATEK PHILIPPE HAS SYMBOLIZED THE BEST THE HOROLOGICAL WORLD HAD TO OFFER. Indeed, the manufacture is known as the quintessential Swiss watchmaker, with products that are the envy that all the other watchmakers play catch-up to. Their fingerprints spread over all aspects of the production process, from the case, the dial, down to the leather strap; everything showcased the manufacture’s inimitable signature. Naturally, that meant Patek Philippe also made the hearts of their watches in-house, their magical calibres that have been endowed with the brand’s own indelible seal of quality. What many connoisseurs seem to have forgotten is that for the longest time, there was actually an exception to that rule.

When watch enthusiasts think of high-end chronographs, their minds immediately gravitate towards Patek Philippe. Indeed, the storied Manufacture is known to be one of the most significant contributors of the complication with many iconic chronograph models throughout their history. But what seems to be omitted (deliberately or otherwise), however, is that many of the historic and beloved Patek Philippe chronographs produced in the 20th century were made using outsourced calibres, and that the Manufacture didn’t make their own completely in-house chronograph movement until 2005.

That’s right, the first Patek Philippe wristwatch chronographs in the 1920s were built using movements from the brand’s “external partners.”

This was the most efficient way of getting chronographs into series production, and saw the storied Manufacture partnering with movement makers such as Victorin Piguet, Raymond Frères (better known today as the Valjoux company), and Nouvelle Lémania to create some of the most well-known and sought-after chronographs (series

KIT O. PAYUMO

production or otherwise) the watch industry has ever seen.

This includes the Ref. 1415 World Time Chronograph of 1932, one of the most sought-after historic timepieces today executed by watchmaker Louis Cottier; Ref. 1518, the world’s first series perpetual calendar chronograph, which featured the Valjoux Caliber 13Q base movement, with modifications by Victorin Piguet for the perpetual calendar; as well as the Ref. 2499 Moon Phase Chronograph powered by the classic hand-wound Valjoux 23 movement.

Another notable calibre is the Calibre 27-70, acknowledged by many in the industry as “the world’s best and most beautiful chronograph movement,” and which found its base in the Lémania 2310. Never mind that the movement was produced exclusively for Patek Philippe, and built to the exacting specifications of the Manufacture. And never mind that the movement was also finished and assembled in Geneva within the very workshops of the Manufacture, it still wasn’t an in-house movement, developed and produced entirely by Patek Philippe.

Yes, all of the most significant Patek Philippe chronographs of the 20th century (those same watches that watch connoisseurs fight tooth and nail over) were made using outsourced calibres, and it wasn’t until the 21st century that Patek Philippe unveiled a new series of chronograph movements that were developed and produced entirely in-house.

Starting from scratch, the Manufacture launched a unique back-to-the-basics approach that subsequently saw the development of the Calibre CHF 27-525 PS in 2005, the Manufacture’s first in-house chronograph movement and the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph that powered the Ref. 5959, as

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well as the stainless steel, cushion-shaped single pushpiece Ref. 5950 of 2010.

2006 saw the release of the Manufacture’s second in-house chronograph movement, caliber CH 28-520, a self-winding chronograph movement that features a modern vertical disktype clutch system, a flyback function, a large single counter at 6 o'clock and a chronograph seconds hand that can be used as a permanent (running) seconds hand. Combined with additional complications it powered the Ref. 5905/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph, and the Ref. 5930P World Time Chronograph.

Third but definitely not the least is the CH 29-535 PS. Launched in 2009, it is most notable for combining the traditional architecture of a column wheel, horizontal clutch and manual winding with Patek Philippe’s predilection for filing patents. In this case: six patented innovations, which include optimized tooth profiles, improved adjustment of gear penetration, and self-adjusting reset hammers.

In 2011, this base caliber was interpreted in a Grand Complication version incorporating a perpetual calendar (CH 29-535 PS Q) in the Ref. 5270 and the Ref. 5271. Since 2012, it has powered the Ref. 5204 Split-seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (CHR 29-535 PS Q); and in the current collection, it made its debut in a ladies' model (Ref. 7150/250), and subsequently went on to power a men's model (Ref. 5172).

Indeed, these three “basic” Patek Philippe chronograph calibers are offered in the current collection in no less than 20 models in some variation or another, and to ensure the continuity of the Manufacture’s dominance of the chronograph complication Patek Philippe has release three more resolutely contemporary interpretations to their 2021 line up.

Feature

Patek Philippe

First up is the Ref. 5204R-011 Split-seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, the latest variation of the 5204 line of references, which has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions with either a silvered opaline dial with a chocolate brown strap (Ref. 5204R-001), or an ebony black dial with a rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet (5204/1R). Priced at over $300K, this latest Ref. 5204R-011 is presented again in an entirely hand-polished rose gold case (with its sophisticated architecture, concave bezel, and two-tier lugs), but is combined, for the first time, with a matching slate gray dial and strap (a standout for the Patek Philippe faithful by being the only piece in this top tier segment to offer a dial in that color).

As with the previously existing references, Ref. 5204R-011 is powered by the CHR 29-535 PS Q, the meticulous manual finishing of which can be viewed in all its glory from the sapphire crystal caseback. First introduced in this configuration in 2012 (on Ref. 5204P-001), the extremely complex movement operates at 4Hz and boasts a power reserve of somewhere around 55 to 65 hours depending on how much the chronograph is used or if the movement has to change a greater number of calendar displays at the end of the day.

It is distinguished by its traditional architecture (manual winding, two column wheels, horizontal clutch), and most especially by its seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism. Indeed, this complexity is belied by the relative simplicity of the dial, the legible layout of which has made the 5204 line of chronograph perpetual calendars so popular to begin with.

On the perfectly symmetrical dial, the day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock; the pointer-date “sub-dial” at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture; while the small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock. The 5204 dial is further exemplified by two small round apertures between 4 and 5 o’clock, and between 7 and 8 o’clock, these display the leap-year cycle and the day/night indication respectively and enable the accurate adjustment of the calendar. Indeed, whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all of which are swathed with luminescent coating. And for those rare individuals, the Ref. 5204R-011 can also be had with a solid caseback.

As previously mentioned, the new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern

and a rose gold fold-over clasp, and joins the two existing versions in rose gold.

Next up is the luminous Ref. 5930P-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph, which was inspired by the 1932 Ref. 1415 World Time Chronograph executed by watchmaker Louis Cottier. Priced at a little over $100K, this more “affordable” piece takes the industry standard in World Timers and presents it in the brilliance of platinum matched with a stunning green dial that seems greener than most other green dials out there.

The green dial center, in fact, is enhanced by a circular hand-guillochéd circular pattern, and is a color picked up on the snailed 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock. This evergreen theme is bolstered by an even greener leather strap, which is set off even more by the cities list on the periphery of the dial also in green. Don’t get us wrong, we have no problem with the color green, there’s just so much of it here. One thing’s for sure, if you’re the kind of person who loves this color the Ref. 5930P-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph is the watch for you.

Originally launched in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap, this

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latest version with an entirely hand-polished 39.5mm platinum case features the “wing-type” lugs typical of 1940s-50s World Time watches.

As is customary for platinum cases by the brand, the case is also set with a diamond at 6 o’clock, and protects the caliber CH 28-520 HU, which remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of the chronograph commands. Instead of a toothed wheel horizontal clutch, however, caliber CH 28-520 HU features a vertical disk-type clutch, a modern technical solution that causes almost no wear and tear, and enables the chronograph seconds hand to be used as a permanent running seconds display.

Running at 4Hz while boasting a power reserve of 50-55 hours, caliber CH 28-520 HU features a 4 o'clock pusher that enables the "flyback" function of instantly restarting a timing operation even when the central hand is already performing an operation or when it is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

Best of all, the World Time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones, and can be instantly adjusted via an exclusive patented mechanism that enables correction of

all displays by pressing the 10 o'clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement.

The new Reference 5930P-001 joins the white gold 5930G-010 version with blue dial and strap, and is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Rounding out the trifecta is the Ref. 5905/1A001 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph, which is a welcome and more laid-back respite after the two powerhouses of the 5204 and the 5930. Even its price tag is more relaxed, and at just over $59K, is well within the sub $60K category.

Originally launched in platinum in 2015, and then in rose gold in 2019, 2021 sees the 42mm Ref. 5905 presented in steel with a three-link integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial. To be sure, this is not the first time we’ve seen an annual calendar with flyback chronograph in a steel case and matching bracelet, that would be the spectacular Ref. 5960/1A with a black dial of 2014. But this is the first time this specific reference has appeared in steel, and we wouldn't be surprised if it is the most talked-about of all three new releases.

Thierry Stern has gone on record in saying that he believes the sudden demand for steel

sports watches is a merely a trend rather than a sign of a permanent shift in taste of Patek clients.

Still, knowing the scarcity of steel watches in the brand’s historical and current lineup, it occurs to us that its availability will open the doors to even more prospective clients, those who would have previously considered Patek Philippe unattainable before. And that can’t possibly be a bad thing.

The new 42mm case of Ref. 5905/1A-001 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph is, thus, made of polished steel, and features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. Further, the integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes of polished outer and satin-finished inner links, while subtly distancing itself from it with a bracelet underside and edges that are polished, just like the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

The case enhances the “extremely rhythmical” dial now rendered in an elegantly stunning sunburst olive green. This ensures the excellent legibility of all the displays including the large

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60-miunte subdial at 6 o’clock; the central chronograph hand; and the three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for the instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. These are further enhanced by the white gold applied hour markers and faceted dauphine hands with luminescent coating, along with a discreet day/ night indicator at 6 o’clock to ensure accurate date setting.

As before, Ref. 5905/1A is driven by the selfwinding CH 28-520 QA 24H, and like the caliber CH 28-520 HU powering the Ref. 5930P, is equipped with a column wheel and a modern disk-type vertical clutch that allows for a central chronograph hand that can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

This ensures minimal wear and tear on the movement without affecting its accuracy or power reserve, while the patented Annual Calendar automatically takes the 30 and 31-day months into account, requiring only one correction on March 1st.

The new Reference 5905/1A-001 joins the existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial, and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.

Feature Rolex

Three Kind of a

F I N D A W AT C H M O D E L T O S U I T A N Y W R I S T Wo rd s b y

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN

ROLEX FIRST RELEASED THE OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST IN 1945, TO COINCIDE WITH THE BRAND’S 40TH ANNIVERSARY. Forty years is quite an achievement, and Rolex decided to pull out all the stops with the Datejust — the first self-winding waterproof chronometer watch with the date display in the window at 3 o’clock. The Datejust’s classic design has made it an icon and every so often Rolex will adjust the Datejust to refresh it for the current times. One such adjustment was the addition of the Cyclops lens in 1955, resulting in better legibility for the date.

Another most welcome adjustment was the release of the Lady-Datejust in 1957. Though the original Datejust was 36 mm in diameter, the Lady-Datejust was a slender 28 mm diameter version. The technical know-how from the Datejust is also incorporated in the LadyDatejust, but in a smaller frame. The classic look and functionality translates well to a smaller size. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has the previously mentioned Cyclops lens at the 3 o’clock, for the date.

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© Rolex/Cédric Widmer

October-December 2021

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is a perfect and classic watch. The look is timeless and the style is updated every so often, just to keep things interesting. There are four new Datejust models this year, and the interesting part is the dial. Of course, the aspects we know and love about the Datejust are still here — the three hands, the date at the 3 o’clock. But now the dial has two new design options for us. The first is a palm motif, which is somewhat organic but still cleanly orchestrated. The second is a fluted dial, more structured in look. These new models are powered by the calibre 3235, which combines energy efficiency and dependability.

Two models have the Oyster bracelet, meaning a three-piece link, and you can choose the classic all Oystersteel version (pictured top left) or the Rolesor model of Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold. Both these watches have the palm motif on the dial but with different treatments for the bezel: olive green dial and domed bezel for the all Oystersteel, and golden dial with fluted bezel for the Oystersteel and yellow gold version.

Two models have the Jubilee bracelet, meaning a five-piece link, and you have the option of Oystersteel and Everose gold, or Oystersteel and yellow gold (pictured left). The Everose gold version has the palm motif on the dial, with a fluted bezel. The yellow gold version is the only watch here with the fluted dial, partnered with a fluted bezel too.

© Rolex/JVA Studios

© Rolex/Cédric Widmer

© Rolex/JVA Studios

DIALS THAT GET US EXCITED

Feature

© Rolex/Ulysse Fréchelin

Rolex

© Rolex/Cédric Widmer

© Rolex/Ulysse Fréchelin

© Rolex/Cédric Widmer

THIS IS THE DAY(DATE)

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For some of us, we plan our schedules based on the day of the week instead of the date. Monday is for meetings, while Wednesday might be for workouts, and Friday is always for fun. So the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is perfect, with the day window at the 12 o’clock. There are three models in different metals for the case, yellow, white or Everose gold.

In addition to the day on display, these Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 models are a burst of color and a dazzle with diamonds. There are 254 diamonds on the case and lugs, another 52 diamonds on the bezel, and a whopping 450 diamonds on the dial. The 6 and 9 are marked in Roman numerals, while the other hours have indexes, all are coated in specific enamel.

The 18k yellow gold model (pictured here) is complemented by the vibrant coral color on the hour markers and the coral alligator leather strap.

The white gold model has the striking turquoise enamel on the hour markers and the turquoise alligator leather strap. The Everose gold model has the elegant burgundy enamel on the hour markers and the burgundy alligator leather strap.

October-December 2021

THE GEM-IFICATION OF A CLASSIC

and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 2236 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

The President bracelet is dazzling and gem-set, but there is more to it that just the expanse of diamonds. Beneath the diamonds and 18k yellow gold lie the ceramic inserts within the links that enhance the bracelet’s flexibility, giving you a more comfortable fit. The concealed attachment system gives your Lady-Datejust a seamless look from the case to the bracelet.

The Lady-Datejust is stunning and precise, it has a nod to history but is also modern. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is the perfect watch for the lady who has everything, and deserves more.

JOY ABOUNDS Choosing a watch, for yourself or a loved one, can be a monumental task. Thankfully, Rolex makes it an enjoyable one, with many Rolex Oyster Perpetual models to choose from.

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© Rolex/JVA Studios

© Rolex/Ulysse Fréchelin

© Rolex/Ulysse Fréchelin

© Rolex/Ulysse Fréchelin

© Rolex/Cédric Widmer

The first thing you’ll notice about the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is the plethora of diamonds. How can you miss the dazzle and sparkle of all those gemstones? The 18k yellow gold watch has diamonds on every surface, save for the caseback and back of the bracelet. Just how many diamonds, you ask? Let’s start counting.

The case itself is set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, plus an additional 44 diamonds on the bezel, also brilliantcut. The President bracelet has 596 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn the semi-circular three-piece links. The dial is covered in diamonds too, 291 of them. The 18k yellow gold numerals are finished in black, all the better to see them against the expanse of diamonds. All in all, that’s 1,089 diamonds on your Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust.

The new version of the Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this selfwinding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, such as Syloxi hairspring and paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel,

Feature

A. Lange & Söhne

THE

GOLDEN COMPASS 50 www.calibremagazine.com

A. Lange & Söhne finds true north with their honeyed limited edition Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

October-December 2021

WE’VE SAID IT BEFORE, AND WE’LL SAY IT AGAIN: IN THE WORLD OF TRADITIONAL HOROLOGY, DIGITAL IS AN UGLY WORD. YET, THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT THE ORIGINAL A. LANGE & SÖHNE ZEITWERK OF 2009 WAS: A DIGITAL WATCH, ALBEIT A HYBRID MECHANICAL ANALOG ONE.

Originally the prevue of the quartz watch industry, the ZEITWERK displayed the time as a set of numbers rather than with the more traditional hands pointing at Arabic or Roman numerals. With the ZEITWERK, the master watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne incorporated a specially designed “Time Bridge,” a part of the movement that “penetrates” the dial and “frames” all the time indications including the double “digital” display windows on the left and the right of the bridge.

The former uses a disc to display the hours, while the latter uses two more discs to display the

minutes, thus the “hybrid” status. To top it all, both indications are instantaneous or “jumping,” meaning that when the hour or minutes changes, the next number instantly jumps into view as opposed to gradually moving into place making for a display that is always precise and unambiguous. Under the “digital” displays and incorporated into the bridge is a traditional analog subsidiary seconds dial. And above it all is a power reserve indicator, which in a manually wound watch, is an extremely useful function.

It must be said though, that the ZEITWERK isn’t the obvious choice when the average watch collector thinks of Lange. Maybe it’s the way it looks? Aesthetically, the typical ZEITWERK is a departure from the Lange 1 design codes that the German brand has perpetuated since its rebirth in 1990. Not that we’re saying that the collection is any less Teutonic, look closely and many of

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the familiar Lange design codes are present and accounted for. It just LOOKS different from anything else offered by the brand.

But the main reason for owning a ZEITWERK was that despite the “digital” conceit, it is as mechanical as could ever be. In fact, the ZEITWERK is considered the A. Lange & Söhne timepiece to own because it is a purely analog timepiece that belies its digital conceit, and given a choice, connoisseurs in the “know” will choose a ZEITWERK over the other A. Lange & Söhne collections. Indeed, a calculator the ZEITWERK is not, and since the ZEITWERK in its purest form already turned heads, any further updates automatically grabbed the attention of those same connoisseurs, which brings us to…2013.

Remember the oohs and aahs that greeted the GRAND LANGE 1 Lumen? Remember how it was such a big deal? For those who don’t, it was

Feature

A. Lange & Söhne

a big deal because the luminescent watch dials which we all take for granted are suspiciously absent from many classic luxury timepieces, and the watches from Saxon watch maker A. Lange & Söhne were among them. Yes, Super LumiNova, an ingredient that comes as defacto standard on many a modern watch dial was, for the longest time, not used by “classic” watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne.

The GRAND LANGE 1 Lumen was endowed with a platinum case and a stunning dial that, coupled with the GRAND LANGE 1’s “unique” assets, such as the off-center dial configuration, the outsize date, the three-day movement, made for an ultra-sophisticated watch, absolutely swimming in ingenuity and elegance. And that still was not the ace up A. Lange & Söhne’s sleeve. That ace came in the form of a new semi-transparent sapphire crystal dial that partly exposed the “ingenious” mechanism of the first luminescent outsize date display by the German watchmaker.

Why? Because the technical challenge during the development of the GRAND LANGE 1 Lumen was to ensure maximum luminosity, not just for the hours, minutes, and power reserve indicators, but also to the outsize date, a display with elements that are always completely covered by the dial. And they did this by using a semitransparent, tinted sapphire crystal dial from which UV light could pass through.

Fast forward to 2021, and the Saxon watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne have applied that same luminosity to their beloved “digital” watch in the new ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen,” a new limited edition of only 200 pieces that not only undresses the ZEITWERK dial in exclusive “Lumen” series fashion, but combines it with a newly developed manufacture calibre, and dresses it up in Lange’s own proprietary gold alloy, Honeygold.

Like the original model, the jumping numerals mechanism consists of a large hour

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ring that spans almost the entire diameter of the movement, along with two smaller discs: the larger for the minutes and on top of that the smaller tens disc: displays that (just like the outsize date of the Grand Lange 1) are completely covered by the dial.

In the ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen” the jumping numerals (all of which are the exact same size, by the way) are fully exposed beneath a dark tinted semi-transparent sapphire crystal treated with a special coating that blocks most of the visible spectrum of light. With the notable exception of the all-important UV light, this allows the luminous material on the numerals to be charged throughout the day, resulting in a “digital” analog display the rivals the brightest quartz electronic displays.

Driving all this newly found luminosity is the manufacture Calibre L043.9 manually wound movement, the second generation of movements that first appeared within the ZEITWERK family

October-December 2021

starting with the ZEITWERK Date in 2019. It is not only decorated and assembled twice by hand, but is crafted to the most exacting of Lange quality standards with features that include the exquisite artisanal finissage on the hand-engraved balance and escape-wheel cocks, the solarized winding wheels and the filigreed, straight-grained constant force escapement bridge that accommodates two recessed, screwed gold chatons.

New to the movement is a curved time bridge now made of black rhodiumed German silver to complement the dark sapphire crystal dial; as well as a pusher at 4 o’clock that allows the hour indication to be switched separately, the integration of which came with its own pros and cons. Pro because the pusher makes it easier to set the time, but con because its integration required considerable effort from the watchmakers and increased the number of movement parts to 462.

The cam-poised balance wheel with its freely oscillating balance spring beats at a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour or 2.5Hz. And best of all, the new movement boasts a 72-hour power reserve, which is double that of the previous generation, courtesy of a pair of mainspring barrels controlled by the integration of the company’s patented constant-force escapement. This, not only controls the complex switching process but also handles two important functions: it generates enough power to handle the “jump” well in advance of the actual jump; and drives the balance with nearly uniform power throughout the entire power reserve. This keeps the amplitude constant, which has a positive effect on rate stability.

Equally important, the new watch continues the revolution that began eleven years ago with another first: the 41.9mm case of the ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen” has been forged in Lange’s own proprietary Honeygold, marking the first time the material has been used in a “Lumen” model. The hands of the power-reserve indicator and of the subsidiary seconds as well as the Lange prong buckle are made of the same material, while various admixtures (known only to the manufacture) and a special thermal treatment endow the 18-carat gold alloy with extra hardness and an inimitably warm luster. Combined with the dark dial and a dark-brown leather strap, the Honeygold is an instant eye-catcher.

To be sure, the new ZEITWERK (and the collection in general) is certainly not for everyone.

But for those fully entrenched and in the “know” the ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen” is the best that the German watchmaker has to offer, making it the ultimate A. Lange & Söhne watch.

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Feature

Girard-Perregaux

Getting into Second Gear

T H E N E X T I N S TA L L AT I O N O F T H E G P - A M C O L L A B O R AT I O N .

Wo rd s b y

BERT E. CASAL

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Feature

Girard-Perregaux

GIRARD-PERREGAUX AND ASTON MARTIN JOINED FORCES EARLY THIS YEAR. Halfway through 2021, the watch brand released its first collaboration with the automotive maker with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges, an 18-piece limited edition watch, with the number resembling the same number worn by Aston Martin’s Formula 1 driver Lance Stroll.

Just recently, the watchmaker announced the second timepiece in the Aston Martin line: the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition.

But before we get into it, let us remind ourselves of how racing used to be back in the days.

In the early 1900s, various colours were assigned to racing cars to distinguish the different nationalities of the teams. As a result, French cars were presented in blue, Italian cars were famously red, Belgian cars were yellow, German cars were silver, and British cars were painted in British Racing Green. As a British marque, Aston Martin adopted green as its racing color, the most famous of which is the Aston Martin DBR1 that won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1959. From that car to the modern day Formula 1 car, Aston Martin’s racing color has remained green.

With Aston Martin’s history of its famous racing green color, it would only be fitting for the new Laureato Chronogrpah Aston Martin Edition timepiece to have it rendered in green, or shall we say “Aston Martin Green.”

Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition was created in collaboration with Aston Martin Lagonda. Its dial is suffused with a delightfully decadent application of what is now known as “Aston Martin Green,” achieved by painstakingly applying paint twenty-one times to the dial, forming distinct layers of paint as a result. The automotive influences also encompass cross-hatching, a diamond-like pattern first seen with the car maker’s “AM” logo from 1921 to 1926. This motif was also inspired by the quilted seats found in the British car’s numerous highperformance sports cars.

Three counters grace the dial, two chronograph registers and a small seconds display. Each counter features a partially open worked hand, perpetuating the design of the hour and minute hands. The central section of each counter is snailed. And finally, a date display is positioned at 4:30.

The watch is housed in a 42 mm 904L stainless steel case. This particular grade of steel is less common than 316L, and is more expensive.

The benefits of using 904L include superior corrosion resistance, improved scratch resistance, and a much brighter and luxurious appearance.

The use of this steel extends to the bracelet, which has a satin-brushed finish.

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Nesting within the case is the Calibre GP03300-0141, a self-winding chronograph movement that drives the two counters, small seconds, as well as the date display on the dial.

This calibre beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 46 hours. The movement is decorated with Còtes de Genève, in circular and straight forms, polished links, thermally blued screws and perlage. It bears the eagle emblem, signifying it as an in-house calibre. It can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back of the watch.

The profile of this watch honours the watch brand’s iconic Laureato of 1975. Upholding Girard-Perregaux’s design philosophy, the case masterfully plays with different shapes. Moreover, the numerous curves, facets and lines, along with satin-finished polished edges, delivers a wonderful play with light.

Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, said: “Our Manufacture has a long history of collaborations beginning with our founder Jean-François Bautte, who brought different ‘etablisseurs’ together under one roof, effectively creating one of the first Manufactures as we know them today. Not only has our partnership with Aston Martin yielded two exceptional timepieces

Girard-Perregaux CEO Patrick Pruniaux

Aston Martin Executive Vice President and Chief Creative Officer Marek Reichman

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now, it is indeed a meeting of the minds and marks the beginnings of a true friendship between both brands and our teams. The Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition is evidence of that mutual understanding and shared philosophy.”

To add on to what Mr. Pruniaux’s statement, Aston Martin’s Executive Vice President and Chief Creative Officer Marek Reichman added: “As Aston Martin and Girard-Perregaux strengthen our partnership, the same is happening with our common design ethos, geared towards discreet luxury. Evidence of it continues to appear in subtle touches throughout the watch, for instance in its partially open worked hour and minute hands, which have been purposely designed to evoke thoughts of racing cars, eschewing extraneous material to deliver superior performance. Likewise, the central chronograph seconds hand features a counterweight that resembles the sides strakes first seen on the 1958 Aston Martin DB4.”

The design of the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition delivers functionality and beauty. It celebrates the past while simultaneously embracing the future. It resonates with both companies, reinforcing the rationale for the ongoing alliance between the two prestigious brands. This timepiece is limited to 188 pieces.

Feature Panerai

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October-December 2021

BRAVING THE WATERS Panerai and BRABUS join forces.

Wo rd s b y

BERT E. CASAL

IN 1935, THE ROYAL ITALIAN NAVY SET UP A SECRET PROGRAMME OF NEW UNDERWATER ASSAULT VEHICLES. This project needed specially trained operators and specialised equipment to fulfil the job. The Navy then sourced out the proper tools to accomplish this mission. One of these tools was a proper dive watch. A number of high-strength diving timepieces were tested. The watch that best met all the requirements of the Royal Italian Navy was the one commissioned by Guiseppe Panerai — the Ref. 2533.

This creation was followed by the Ref. 3646, the watch that we know today as the Radiomir.

To improve its function, Guiseppe Panerai modified the structure of the dial with the use of overlapping discs, and also modified the upper part in anodised aluminium with perforated indexes and numbers in order to make the radium paste more legible and luminescent. To improve the legibility of the dial, its layout was redesigned with just 4 large Arabic numbers in the Cardinal points and 8 indexes at the hour markers.

In 1949, a patent was approved for use by Panerai with the name “Luminor” after all the luminescent and self-luminescent materials used.

But these materials had some drawback, namely the link with radioactivity it emitted and its effects to the wearer. The Luminor was then “re-fitted” with a new tritium-based substance with very low and harmless emissions. The Luminor gradually became the common identifier of the Panerai diving timepiece, characterised by the crown protection bridge.

BRABUS is primarily known as a German high-performance automotive aftermarket tuning company that specialises in Mercedes-Benz, Smart, and Maybach vehicles. But BRABUS also has a partnership with Axopar, a Finnish company that designs boats with great handling ability with killer looks to boot. Because of their high level of commitment and dedication, BRABUS and Apoxar create unique products, utilising the philosophy of sharing technologies to create functional and beautiful products.

Now, Panerai and BRABUS have joined forces to create a timepiece that celebrates their new partnership. The first result of this daring collaboration is the limited edition Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Black Ops Edition (PAM01240). This milestone also celebrates the watch brand’s first ever skeletonized automatic movement. The P.4001/s features a one piece off-centered oscillating weight that allows for bidirectional winding, whereby two spring barrels efficiently wind the watch as it is worn, offering a 3-day power reserve. The tungsten oscillating rotor enables the movement (and therefore, the watch) to be much thinner and lighter. The stop balance wheel and seconds reset devices enables the time to be synchronised with a reference time signal. The new movement was developed starting from the P.4000 calibre and designed and created at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchatel.

This collaboration timepiece is the product of 3 years of development, which resulted in features like a patented polarised date display that allows a view of the date only through the opening at 3 o’clock, without covering the mechanics of the skeletonized movement. The 47 mm watch features a unidirectional rotating bezel for the calculation of dive times, a GMT function and an AM/PM indicator.

The adaptation of the signature gunmetal grey, black, and red color palette of BRABUS enhances the similarities between both product lines. As a tribute to both brands’ frequent use of innovative and high-end composite materials, a dark grey Carbotech watchcase was chosen. Minute, hour, and small seconds hands are accented in BRABUS red. The BRABUS brand emblems are engraved on Panerai’s signature crown guard lever, the watch strap, the movement, and the case back.

Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué said: “When we speak about partnership, it’s not just about a logo, it extends to the highest levels and smallest details. We offer each other complementary skill sets and synergies in terms of products, sales and key markets. The ideas, materials and technologies of our brands will be a vehicle for developing concepts that are both disruptive and spectacular. All of these elements will come together to create results and added value to the benefit of our clients, in terms of service, retail concepts and calibres.”

The Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Black Ops Edition features two straps, a bi-material version and a second Panerai Sportech™ strap with a velcro closure. Included is a tool to allow interchangeability of the straps and a screwdriver for removing the buckle. This timepiece is limited to 100 pieces.

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“Panerai and BRABUS collaborate to bring together the brands' design DNAs and identities.”

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Feature

Glashütte Original

A TRUE CHILD OF GLASHÜTTE E X C E L L E N C E Q U A N T I F I E D B Y O N LY 1 0 0 P I E C E S Wo rds by

KIT O. PAYUMO

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October-December 2021

Feature

Glashütte Original

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL HAS BEEN IN THE BUSINESS OF FINE WATCHMAKING SINCE 1845, AND IS SUCH A SPECIALIZED WATCHMAKER THEY ARE OFTEN MENTIONED IN THE SAME BREATH AS THE “OTHER” SPECIALTY GERMAN WATCHMAKER, A. LANGE & SÖHNE. And one of the ways the Manufacture has been propagating that business of fine watchmaking is through the creation of wholly attainable manufacture-made perpetual calendars; something that the brand has been doing for the past 22 years.

Indeed, Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar made its first appearance in 1999, and, over the years, has been continuously evolving with aesthetic tweaks and upgraded movements. The two things that have remained

constant, however, are its superior build, peerless finishing, and outstanding value for money.

As in-house perpetual calendars go, Glashütte Original’s entry has long been considered a towering achievement, not only because of its aesthetic beauty, which includes an industry-best perpetual calendar layout (more on that later) but since 2017, also by the incorporation of “unique” mechanical innovations designed to make this watch substantially easier to bear for the user at a relatively reasonable price point (understand that we use the terms “relatively,” and “reasonable” rather freely). These features include a universal corrector and an auto-winding rotor that powers a silicone balance spring and a single barrel capable of storing as much as 100 hours of power reserve,

two features that ensure the easiest of ownership experiences (at least as far as perpetual calendars are concerned).

Indeed, in its present guise, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar was last updated in 2017 with a new movement, the Calibre 36, which incorporated the aforementioned mechanical innovations, and a redesigned 42mm case. This year, as if to punctuate the excellence of their perpetual calendar, Glashütte Original has launched a special stainless steel Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition of only 100 pieces with a new rose opaline dial (which many call “salmon”) with dark blue colored accents and matching leather

“The dial transforms quite beautifully from a silky, pale pink to an intense salmon color resulting in probably the boldest color combination that the staid and conservative Senator Excellence family has ever seen.”

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October-December 2021

strap. And even if this is still the same watch that was updated in 2017, the new dial colors give the watch an even more sophisticated edge. And this is all due to the Manufacture’s very own dial manufacture in Pforzheim.

The galvanic rose opaline dial is crafted and decorated using the elaborate process of galvanization, the numerous individual steps of which have resulted in a unique silken hue rarely found on a watch dial. Best of all, it isn’t just one color. Depending on the kind of light that strikes it, the dial color transforms quite beautifully from a silky, pale pink to an intense salmon color resulting in probably the boldest color combination that the staid and conservative Senator Excellence family has ever seen.

Further, the silken hue contrasts splendidly with the hand-mounted blue of the Roman numeral hour appliques. This deep blue color is taken up by the finely stepped calendar windows, the moon phase display, and by the elegant poire hands and Louisiana alligator leather strap.

As previously mentioned, within the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition ticks the Manufacture Calibre 36-12, a movement developed to maximize both user-friendliness and ease of maintenance. It features a silicon balance spring that, according to Glashütte Original, guarantees exceptional precision, while robust stability is assured thanks to innovative “bayonet” mounting, which secures the movement within the case. And because user-friendliness was a top priority, adjusting the timekeeping functions of this watch can be done with ease via a single universal corrector on the caseband, which adjusts all the indications automatically, all at the same time. And did we mention the calendar will not need adjusting until the year 2100? Well, at least, theoretically.

Speaking of the calendar, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition is still one of the easiest perpetual calendars to read, and (believe us) some of them can be quite complex, even going as far as using the caseback to display some of its indications.

Not so with the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, which manages to keep all its indications at the front of its dial without succumbing to the extravagance of overt complexity.

Presented in a five-point “star” configuration, the calendar indications are the epitome of perfect layout and proportioning, which is typical of many German designs. The day and month apertures are presented symmetrically below 10 and 2 o’clock, respectively with the brand’s Panorama Date and its double discs in blue sitting at 4 o’clock. The moon phase with its

blue background and golden moon, on the other hand, sits between 7 and 8, while the recessed and snailed leap year counter with its blued hand sits proudly at the pinnacle of the five points below 12 o’clock.

Turn the watch around and the sapphire caseback window displays the award-winning calibre 36 movement here modified considerably to harness the full expanse of a perpetual calendar. Naturally, exceptional finishing is the order of the day with the newly designed winding rotor with the double-G logo now fully open taking center stage. This is enhanced by Glashütte stripes just like the three-quarter plate, while the hand-engraved balance cock, delicate perlage finishing, blued screws, and seemingly endless rubies all speak towards the matchless finishing on display here.

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Like all the models in the Senator Excellence collection, the exceptional precision, stability, and finishing of the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition is backed by an exclusive certificate confirming that each and every Senator Excellence has undergone 24 days of comprehensive testing in the Saxon manufactory.

A special engraving on the case back is the guarantee testifying to the quality of each watch; while an exclusive online portal gives owners access to the detailed test scores of their watch along with information regarding the individual tests and procedures performed on it.

The new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition in rose opaline and dark blue is limited to 100 pieces and is available exclusively at Glashütte Original Boutiques and authorized dealers.

Feature Bvlgari

Turning The Octo Finissimo in a clean aesthetic Wo rd s b y

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN

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Feature Bvlgari

THE OCTO FINISSIMO FROM BVLGARI HAS ONCE AGAIN CAUGHT OUR EYE. Anything from Bvlgari would, of course, but this iteration of the ultrathin watch is eye-catching for what is has and what is doesn’t.

Bvlgari has partnered once again with Japanese architect Tadao Ando to bring a Japanese aesthetic to the famed timepiece. Tadao Ando is a contemporary architect, known for his use of cement, glass, and light, and his buildings exhibit minimalism. His creations can be seen in Japan, like the Church of Light in Osaka and the 21_21 Design Sight in Tokyo, and in the US, with the Museum of Modern Art in Fort Worth, Texas. The Church of Light eschews stereotypical stained glass windows and instead uses unhampered windows to allow natural light to flood the inner space. 21_21 Design Sight is a gallery in the Roppongi district, and was a collaborative effort with fashion designer Issey Miyake. The Museum of Modern Art in Fort Worth is an elegant combination of concrete, glass, and steelwork, allowing featured collections to take centerstage.

Tadao Ando’s journey in architecture is a little unusual. He did not follow the typical path of an architect but instead dabbled in different fields that would allow him to travel and expand his outlook. He voraciously studied different books and did short-term apprenticeships to further his architectural and design knowledge. He considers his approach to education as based in experience and exposure.

Tadao Ando’s first collaboration with Bvlgari created a watch with a spiral on the dial, symbolizing the birth of time from a black hole.

This second collaboration puts a different spin on things, but the result is just as impressive.

Some say the work of Tadao Ando evokes the haiku effect. A haiku is a Japanese poem in just seventeen syllables, set in a five-seven-five pattern. Different from flowery expounding poetry, the haiku simplifies the thought into only what is essential. The seventeen syllables, not even seventeen words but just syllables, are wellchosen, curated, if you will, to fully encompass the thought and emotion in the simplest of terms.

This clarity is now also seen in the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando. The watch has a very clean minimalist look, thanks to the Mikazuki concept (三日月), but it does not appear austere.

Just like a haiku, what is shown is what is truly essential. Mikazuki shows the crescent moon, the beginning of the moon phases, and symbolizes the passing of time. The crescent moon symbolizes

hope and a future — that the best is yet to come.

On the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, that delicate gold crescent moon is at 5 o’clock, while the seconds hand is at the 7 o’clock, though there are no hour markers. The spiral seems to begin from the seconds hand. The hour and minute hands are in the center of the dial.

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando has the mechanical automatic ultra-thin Calibre BVL 138. Being a mechanical automatic means you do not have to wind the rotor yourself, because the rotor winds the mainspring as you go about your day. The movement of your wrist is enough to keep the watch going. And of course this Octo is ultra-thin, coming in at slightly more than 5mm.

The watch is a three-hander, with hours, minutes, and seconds.

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando case, dial, and bracelet are in black sandblasted

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ceramic. Ceramic is no longer limited to dishware or decorative pieces, and high-tech ceramic used in horological pieces is extremely scratch- and fade-resistant. The dial has the additional treatment of blue lacquer, which partners well with the black case and bracelet.

The caseback is transparent and features the laser-engraved signature of Tadao Ando. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando is the second collaboration with Tadao Ando and is a limited edition of 160 pieces.

As we said at the start of this article, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando is eyecatching for what is has and what is doesn’t. It has a pristine aesthetic and is an elegant presentation of time. While it doesn’t have gems or jewels, we don’t miss them because the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando is perfect in its modernity and elegance.

minimalistic essential and artistic Bulgari’s Octo

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Feature Alpina

AT HOME WITH THE ELEMENTS

THE HERITAGE COLLECTION OF ALPINA WELCOMES TWO NEW WATCHES TO CONQUER THE SEAS AND THE SKIES.

Words by

BERT E. CASAL

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Feature Alpina

FOR ALMOST 140 YEARS, ALPINA HAS EXPLORED REGIONS OF THE WORLD WHERE LITTLE TO NO MAN HAS GONE. This unparalleled experience emanates in their Heritage Collection, where two new watches join the family.

Nowadays, the term “tool watch” is being used both by collectors and enthusiasts. But what exactly does it mean? To put it in its simplest definition, a tool watch is a watch that was designed to do a specific function well, aside from telling the time. For example: the uni-directional rotating bezel of a dive watch tells the diver when it is time for him to swim to the surface. If we were to take this definition literally, all watches that have an hour and minute hand are a tool watch, because they could be used as a compass to determine where north and south are.

If we were to look back on the beginnings of the term “tool watch,” we would find that during those days, smartphones did not exist. Wifi and the Internet did not exist. The wonders of modern technology did not exist. So having a watch that, aside from telling the time, could provide you with another function, to use as a tool, was indeed very useful. So in essence, any watch that can offer additional functions, such as increased water resistance in dive watches, a chronograph function to accurately time events, are considered as tool watches, and proved to be an essential tool for people who need those special functions to complete their task.

Alpina, which was founded in 1883, built its reputation on creating watches that are water resistant, shock-resistant, anti-magnetic, and rustproof. It is this pioneering vision that still enables Aplina to be the benchmark for the “tool watch,” designed for explorers.

With that in mind, we move on to Alpina’s new reinterpretation of its famous Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage Automatic. The fifth timepiece from this successful line recalls that being passionate about the sea requires efficient, accurate, legible, and robust instruments.

The Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage Automatic is a diver’s watch that goes beyond today’s convention. Normally, a diver’s watch has a uni-directional rotating bezel to measure dive times. You will not find that on this watch.

Instead, to measure dive times, the diver needs to rotate the flange (located on the outer edges of the dial) via a crown positioned at 2 o’clock.

Its black lacquered sunray-brushed dial features gold plated luminescent hands, creating the contrast required to make it easy to read, even in low light conditions.

Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage Automatic

Alpina Diver 10 Seastrong 1969

Alpina Diver 10 Seastrong Advertising 1969

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Alpina Military Watch 1921

Alpina Military Watch Advertising 1921

Startimer Pilot Heritage Automatic

“Alpina built its reputation on creating watches that were water resistant, shock resistant, anti-magnetic, and shock proof."

Don’t be deceived by the looks of this watch, it is water resistant to 300 meters. This new 42 mm design with a steel case has its two crowns screwed down to ensure water tightness. This also protects the AL-520 movement, a modern automatic calibre with a 38-hour power reserve. This timepiece comes with two straps: one in brown calfskin and the other in beige topstitched rubber.

As far as flying is concerned, Alpina has also expanded its Heritage designs with the new Startimer Pilot Heritage Automatic. This piece was modelled on original creations from the 1920s. This new variation adds to the existing collection with blue and beige tones that evoke the sky and the historical counters used by aviation pioneers. Inside the 44 mm diameter case beats an automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve. This calibre drives the three hands and the date at 3 o’clock.

Alpina has kept the original look of its Twenties timepieces by sticking with the same Arabic numerals and luminescent beige hands as the dials from the era. Their generous proportions help make them easy to read with just a quick glance. On the dial, there is a 24-hour dial. At 12 o’clock, as well as at the tip of the seconds hand, you can find the manufacture’s symbolic triangle that represents the Alpine peaks. The final finishing touch is provided by an “onion” crown, the standard in the last century, designed for optimum grip when a pilot needs to correct the time while wearing leather gloves. A button at 4 o’clock opens up the Startimer Pilot Heritage Automatic’s steel back to reveal the AL-525 automatic movement through a glass, a typical feature of 1920s and 1930s pilot watches.

The Startimer Pilot Heritage Automatic timepiece is limited to 288 pieces.

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Feature Breitling

RACING WITH THE WIND BREITLING GETS ITS MOTOR RUNNING WITH THREE ICONIC AMERICAN SPORTS CARS Words by

KIT O. PAYUMO

THE 1960S WAS AN INCREDIBLE TIME FOR THE AMERICAN AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY, NOT ONLY DID THE DECADE SEE A VERITABLE BOOM IN PRODUCTION BUT IT ALSO PRODUCED SOME OF THE MOST ICONIC AMERICAN SPORTS CARS OF ALL TIME; ONE OF THE FINEST EXAMPLES OF WHICH IS THE SHELBY COBRA. As sporty and as American as they come, the Shelby Cobra was the brainchild of racecar driver, Le Mans winner, and car designer Carroll Shelby who, back in the early 60s, envisioned a sports car that combined British chassis design with strong American racing engineering. The result was the Shelby Cobra, one of the most iconic American sports cars ever designed, which ingeniously matched a small lightweight chassis with a strong, and powerful American big-block engine. It was introduced way back in 1962, and is still blisteringly fast and sought-after today.

Another iconic American sports car is the Chevrolet Corvette, the second generation of which was built from 1963 to 1967. Also known as the “Sting Ray,” the C2 version took everything good from the first generation “vette” and re-sculpted its sporty and open top 50s-oriented

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Feature Breitling

body into something sharp and slinky in both convertible and fastback form, this means the Corvette finally came with a roof. In coupe form the Sting Ray featured a distinctive tapering rear deck and hidden headlamps on a distinctly raked front end inspired by (can you believe it?) a Mako shark (of all things), which was caught by Chevrolet styling director Bill Mitchell while deep sea fishing. Another fun fact: did we mention carmaker Louis Chevrolet was a Swiss racing driver born in the watchmaking city of La Chauxde-Fonds? Indeed, of all the American-made sports cars, the gorgeous Chevrolet Corvette probably elicits the kind of fantasies usually reserved for Italian exotics.

Speaking of European designs, one cannot dismiss the Ford Mustang. In a 2004 interview, former Project Design Chief Joe Oros recalled the planning that went into the first generation: “I told the team that I wanted the car to appeal to women, but I wanted men to desire it, too. I wanted a Ferrari-like front end, the motif centered on the front…and I wanted air intakes on the side to cool the rear brakes. I said it should be as sporty as possible and look like it was related to European design.”

The result was a sports car that would help define the American automotive landscape: the Ford Mustang, a compact, affordable, and sporty automobile that defined the coolness of an entire generation (hello, Steve McQueen).

In continuous production since 1963, the “pony car” is the longest-production automobile produced by Ford, which is in sharp contrast with the fact that the first generation Mustang was developed and produced in a record 18 months.

A true automotive classic, it is the ultimate people’s sports car with some models geared more for families, and others designed specifically for the driving enthusiast. A true living legend (if there ever was one), the Ford Mustang is still in production, and is as relevant today as it was when it made its debut back in the 1960s.

These three iconic American sports cars are the inspiration for the new Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection, a series of three modern vintage-inspired chronographs that are themselves a nod to a classic Breitling collection, which, not coincidentally also hails from the 1960s.

Targeted towards a younger and “up and coming” demographic, the original 1960s Breitling Top Time collection was meant as an alternative to the utilitarian, aviation-inspired tool watchchronograph that the brand was known for.

“We are sweeping into the field of youth and we are going to speak their language,” said Willy Breitling who brought the original collection to life. “Our special models are particularly suited to the needs of

young professionals.We are designing a superb range of ultra modern chronographs led by a completely new model, the Top Time.”

Powered by the maturing baby boomer generation, the resulting Top Time collection was not only more affordable but was also a clear antithesis to the technical tool watches that were associated with Breitling chronographs. Stark, less complicated dials were a hallmark of this as evidenced by the range’s typical design of a simple black dial with two silver subdials; and with the watchmaker positioning these watches for anyone with a sporting and active lifestyle the Top Time chronographs were offered with three alternate outer scales: tachymeter, pulsometer, and decimal. Further, thanks to its “bold new lines,” “rare and distinctive air,” and overall

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elegance, the collection also attracted a solid base of young women, making the Top Time yet another alternative: this time to the dress watch.

Upon its release in 1964, the Top Time found instantaneous success with many celebrities from the sports and entertainment worlds, and in 1965 the Top Time became a permanent part of popular culture when it made its cinematic debut as the first Bond Watch. Strapped on Sean Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, the Scottish actor’s fourth outing as the iconic James Bond 007, the modified Top Time Ref. 2002 was fitted with a Geiger counter by Q to help Bond detect radiation in the film. This meant the Top Time was also the first Bond watch to double as a spy tool starting a cinematic trend of Bond “tool” watches that has lasted to this day. And did we

mention, this very same watch would become one of the most expensive Breitlings ever to be sold, selling at auction for £103,875 in 2013?

The Breitling Top Time has even been compared to the Heuer Carrera, the “other” sporty yet simple chronograph that also emerged in the 1960s alongside the Top Time. But while the Carrera has gone on to achieve “icon” status, the Top Time’s legacy has been virtually untapped, that is, until now. Taking off from last year’s Top Time “Zorro” Ref. 2003 41mm limited re-edition, which brought back many of the defining elements of the original Top Time collection (including those oversized pump-type pushers), the new and vintage-inspired Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection delves further into the range’s sporting and automotive roots.

Starting with the one-two punch of the red and black Breitling Top Time Chevrolet Corvette, based on the striking design of the Corvette C2, which is often referred to as the “Sting Ray” by classic-car aficionados; and the green and brown Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang, inspired by the car that sparked a new genre of compact and affordable sports cars; these new “disruptive” chronographs with a motoring twist sport 42mm cases and are powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 25, a self-winding 1/8th of a second chronograph movement with a power reserve of about 42 hours. Both watches feature a tachymeter scale and three black contrasting subdials with their respective car logos proudly displayed at 12 o’clock.

Rounding out the trifecta is the appropriately slightly smaller 40mm Breitling Top Time Shelby Cobra (a smaller watch made to pay homage to a small, lightweight sports/racecar), which is driven by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 41, a self-winding 1/4th of a second chronograph movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Further, the Breitling Top Time Shelby Cobra has a paint job inspired by the color scheme made famous by Carroll Shelby: blue with white racing stripes. Thus, this automotive-inspired Breitling features a blue dial with a white tachymeter scale and two white contrasting subdials, while the Cobra logo proudly sits at the 6 o’clock position.

All three watches stand out with their bold dial colors in green, red and blue with racing-themed touches thrown in for good measure. Watchstraps are all in racing-inspired calfskin leather, while the stainless steel casebacks are engraved to showcase each car’s logo in impressive detail. Finally, classic chronograph pushers punctuate the dials of all three watches, which are all water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Breitling Top Time Chevrolet Corvette

Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang

Breitling Top Time Shelby Cobra

Feature Oris

THE PROPILOT FLEET COMES FLYING INTO FORMATION Wo rd s b y

An exceptional series of limited edition watches for the Swiss AirRescue Rega.

BERT E. CASAL

October-December 2021

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THE SWISS WATCH BRAND IS NO STRANGER TO AVIATION. They have been making watches for

those pioneering aviators as early as 1910. These early pilots discovered that a watch was a vital tool and turned to Swiss pocket watch for tools they could refer to. In their archives are pocket watches with cases decorated with Blériot-style aircrafts. In fact, it was aviation that pushed Oris to develop their first wristwatches in 1917.

Then in 1938, the Big Crown was created for the airmen. It featured an oversized crown so pilots could adjust the hands, in flight, while wearing those padded leather gloves. This model has been in constant production ever since and has become their signature design, fuelling Oris’s reputation as the creator of ultra-reliable, ultraprecise watches.

Through the decades, Oris has partnered with may leading organisations, military units, and display teams linked to the world of aviation. And through these eras, innovations have come up to supplement the pilot’s watch, innovations such as the Worldtimer (with its push buttons that move the hour hand forwards and backwards in one hour jumps) and the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter.

Oris entered into a partnership with Swiss AirRescue Rega in 2016. The latter has been offering an aeromedical service for almost seven decades and is recognised worldwide for its excellence and professionalism. They are recognised by their iconic red helicopters and crew members in their

red uniforms. Today, they serve as an integral part of the Swiss healthcare system. They have a fleet of state-of-the-art aircrafts spread out through 13 strategically placed helicopter bases, allowing them to arrive at an emergency location in just 15 minutes. Each crew has a pilot, a paramedic, and an emergency flight physician that’s ready to go at a moment’s notice 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. They currently have 7 Airbus H145 helicopters, 11 AgustaWestland Da Vinci helicopters, and 3 Bombardier Challenger 650 ambulance jets.

Though famous for their high-altitude mountain rescues, Rega’s service covers all medical emergencies, from road accidents to

sudden illnesses. Rega said that its mission is to “provide assistance wherever a person’s life or health can be preserved or protected through our intervention.”

During the pandemic, the organisation’s role became even more significant. In 2020, it organised more than 16,000 missions and brought medical assistance by air to 11,000 people in distress. To this day, Rega remains privately run. They are a non-profit organisation funded by a patronage system, where private individuals make regular contributions to the running of the service.

Oris is extremely proud to be a partner with Rega. So for their next collaboration, Oris

October-December 2021

“ORIS EARNED THE REPUTATION AS THE CREATOR OF ULTRA- PRECISE AND ULTRA-RELIABLE WATCHES.”

decided to invite the crew of Rega to a workshop to ask them a simple question: What do you need in a wristwatch?

The results of the question led to features like having a clean and ultra-legible dial that can be read in a split second, a watch that would have little to no glare, and a watch that had a GMT and a function for recording logbook times and

a pulsometer that could serve as a backup to electronic machines. One pilot had the crazy idea to link watches to individual aircrafts, as each crew has a close bond with the air ships they work on.

Oris heard them. And they listened.

This year, Oris presents the third collaboration with Swiss Air-Rescue Rega: the Big Crown

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ProPilot Rega Fleet L.E. Its black dial has highcontrast white hands and numerals filled with high-grade Super-LumiNova®. Its stainless steel case and Oris-patented “Lift” clasp are coated in anti-reflective gunmetal grey PVD. It has a clearly indicated second time zone. And engraved onto its bi-directional rotating bezel are a red triangle for timing the “golden hour” (the first hour after injury during which a patient’s chances of recovery are highest), and a pulsometer scale, read off with a white-tipped central seconds hand.

Oris added all the functions that the Rega crew asked for, all but one: the pilot’s request to link watches to individual aircrafts. To address this, Oris created 21 different case backs (one for each of the 21 aircrafts of the fleet), each engraved with the outline of a Rega aircraft and its registrations.

To power this watch, Oris installed the Oris 798, an automatic winding movement with a 42 hour power reserve. It is encased in a stainless steel case with gunmetal grey PVD coating and a grey PVD-coated bi-directional rotating bezel.

The watch comes with a black leather strap with gunmetal grey PVD-coated stainless steel folding clasp and an additional quick-change red rubber strap and clasp-change tool.

The Big Crown ProPilot Rega Fleet L.E. comes in 21 models, each limited to 100 pieces.

Feature

DAMASZENER

SINN

SINN SPEZIALUHREN CREATES A 100-PIECE LIMITED EDITION FORGED FROM DAMASCUS STEEL Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

October-December 2021

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Feature SINN

CONTRARY TO POPULAR BELIEF DAMASCUS STEEL IS NOT A PARTICULAR TYPE OF STEEL THAT CAN ONLY BE FOUND IN DAMASCUS, SYRIA (THE COLLECTIVE GROANS OF THE FANS OF THE FICTIONAL METAL VIBRANIUM ONLY BEING FOUND IN THE FICTIONAL COUNTRY OF WAKANDA IS PALPABLE). In fact, it isn’t entirely clear why Damascus steel is called Damascus steel, and while its origins remain contentious among historians three popular theories to its origins have emerged: 01 It refers to steel made in Damascus. 02 It refers to steel purchased or traded in Damascus. 03 It refers to the similarity its pattern has to damask fabric.

But whatever its true origins what can be agreed upon is that Damascus steel is a famous type of dark-colored steel marked by a watery or wavy pattern. Aside from being beautiful, the steel is valued for its hardness and flexibility. In fact, weapons traditionally forged from Damascus steel are renowned for their toughness and sharpness with the steel’s remarkable characteristics becoming known to the western world when the Crusaders reached the Middle East in the 11th century. They discovered that swords made of this metal could split a feather in midair, yet retain their edge throughout many battles.

The reputation and history of Damascus steel has, indeed, grown over the centuries with each legend growing more preposterous each year: Damascus steel has been known to cut through a rifle barrel; Damascus steel can cut split a single

strand of hair. And although these legends have to be taken with a grain of salt what is known is that sharpness of the swords and blades made of this type of steel is legendary, and that the smiths and armorers who originally made them were highly secretive regarding their methods. But even if the process for creating true Damascus steel has undoubtedly been lost to time, there are, however, modern alternatives that can mimic and duplicate the qualities of Damascus steel. This is where the German watchmaker SINN Spezialuhren comes in.

According to the watchmaker, the modern equivalent of Damascus steel is actually the result of combining at least two different types of steel layered to create the mythical wavy pattern the steel is known for. Indeed, the traditional art of making Damascus steel is very elaborate and ultimately represents a unique combination of craftsmanship and application. But to actually produce its equivalent different types of steel have to be layered and forge-welded together. The resulting piece is then forged, then halved while in a glowing state, and then layered together again. According to Sinn, experts refer to this as ‘folding,’ and the combination of soft and hard steel ultimately creates a new kind of steel, one that displays the properties of both. But that’s not all.

To achieve the traditional Damascus steel water or wave pattern, the process of surface etching had to be utilized.

Believe it or not, the new forged steel is dissolved through

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“Because the form and design of the wave pattern cannot be deliberately manipulated, each and every case and dial is unique making each 1800 S DAMASZENER one of a kind”

varying degrees of acid. This “washing” is what ultimately reveals the wave pattern that Damascus steel is known.

For the new limited edition SINN 1800 S GG DAMASZENER, SINN Spezialuhren partnered with Balbachdamast GmbH & Co. KG, a metal forging specialist that has continuously developed and perfected this 2,000-yearold forging technique to supply and forge the two types of high-grade stainless steel into Damascus steel. The experts of Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte (SUG) are then responsible for the sophisticated process of manufacturing the 43mm case from this steel.

The 100-piece limited edition 1800 S DAMASZENER is made from genuine forge-welded Damascus steel, and marks the first time the German watchmaker has worked with the highly traditional material. It seamlessly represents the highest quality workmanship the brand has to offer and boasts a unique style that is reflected directly in its design and appearance.

And did we mention that the dial is part of the case?

That’s right, “integrated” is the word used for a dial that was forged as part of the whole. In order to completely bring the characteristic texture of Damascus steel to the fore SINN eschewed the traditional manner of designing the case and dial as separate components and, instead, forged both from a single steel block. Only the crown and the bow of the pin clasp, also forged from Damascus steel were formed separately.

The result: a continuous Damascus wave pattern that flows across the entire case and dial to create a fascinating and impressive whole. And that’s not all. Because the form and design of the wave pattern cannot be deliberately manipulated, each and every case and dial is unique making each 1800 S DAMASZENER one of a kind. And with the subsequent application of TEGIMENT Technology, the case has also been made especially scratch resistant, with the additional Black Hard Coating imbuing the Damascus pattern with unprecedented highlights especially when struck by different kinds of light.

The Damascus wave pattern on the dial is highlighted by the 18K gold appliqués hour markers meticulously attached by hand. These are echoed in the design of the skeletonized 18K hour, minute, and second hands, all of which have been imbued with luminous material making it possible to read the 1800 S DAMASZENER in the dark.

The new 100-piece limited edition SINN 1800 S GG DAMASZENER is waterproof and pressure-resistant up to 10 bar. It is powered by the SW300-1 self-winding mechanical movement, and is matched to a brown cowhide strap weathered to vintage effect. A second cowhide strap, this time in black but also weathered to vintage effect, also comes with the package. Speaking of which, the watch is presented in a special presentation box that includes a band replacement tool, spare spring bars, an Eschenbach watchmaker’s loupe, a care cloth and a SINN Spezialuhren brochure.

Feature Urwerk

T O I N F I N I T Y. . .

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URWERK ADDS A DRIVER’S WATCH TO THEIR SPECIAL PROJECT COLLECTION

IN LESS THAN 60 SECONDS Wo rd s b y

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KIT O. PAYUMO

Feature Urwerk

ACCORDING TO THE CAMBRIDGE ONLINE DICTIONARY, AN “AGGREGATE” IS SOMETHING FORMED BY ADDING TOGETHER SEVERAL AMOUNTS OR THINGS. MERRIAM-WEBSTER SAYS THAT AN “AGGREGATE” IS FORMED BY THE COLLECTION OF UNITS OR PARTICLES INTO A BODY, MASS, OR AMOUNT. It can be said, then, that an “aggregate” is formed by adding together two or more amounts; or is the entire sum or amount. In other words: the aggregate is the SUM TOTAL of different things, which is basically the textbook description of Felix Baumgartner’s and Martin Frei’s latest horological masterpiece.

The latest addition to URWERK’s Special Project collection, a think tank-type laboratory where follies are encouraged to ultimately offer horological freedom, the UR-112 “Aggregat” is a compendium of sorts, which like the textbook description brings together disparate elements to form a whole. And listening to both Baumgartner and Frei, it sounds like URWERK had its own little Frankenstein-like project going when developing the UR-112.

“We nicknamed this watch the Aggregat because the UR-112 brings different elements together,” confirmed Felix Baumgartner. To which Martin Frei added, “The sources of inspiration for this UR112 are many and diffuse. The grille of the Bugatti Atlantique is the most obvious. Some Middle Eastern influences are also vivid in my mind. The memories, the smells, the experiences during my travels nourish my imagination and are found in all my creations.”

Indeed, anyone with even just a passing familiarity with the brand knows that URWERK has made a name for itself by its avant-garde way of displaying time. Primary of which is the watchmaker’s wholly contemporary application of an old watchmaking concept known as the wandering hours, which in typical URWERK parlance not only sees the minute hand incorporate the hour display, but also places the hours on threedimensional rotating arms called satellites (see any of the brand’s other offerings such as the UR-210 if any of that sounds too confusing).

But for the new UR-112, which URWERK has been developing for 10 years, this concept is pushed even further. In fact, it departs from the company’s signature wandering hours. Instead, the UR-112 is equipped with double flying carrousels with jumping triangular prisms to bring you the digital hours and minutes in a novel yet quintessential three-dimensional URWERK format: on the left side of the case are the hours; while on the right are the minutes, both of which are separated by a central seam. According to

the watchmaker, “Each are displayed on triangular prisms operating under transparent cylinders, which appear as levitating mechanisms to be admired through the crystal.”

The movement of the UR-112 is ensconced within a hunter-type case with a hinged titanium protective cover. Pressing the pushers on either side of the case unlocks the cover to reveal the only analogue display of the UR-112: the 48-hour power-reserve indicator. This sits on the left side of the case across from an elaborate display of digital seconds, the tiny numerals of which are etched on tiny silicon wafer disks and parade under a magnifying lens framed by a bright red surround with a white arrow. Further, all the hour and minute numerals are engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova, while the hour prism moves in sharp, precise jumps like those old airport splitflap Solari displays. Interestingly, the "dragging" minutes is the exact opposite, and advance in 5-minute intervals with minute markers making

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the reading of the time wholly intuitive.

And have we mentioned that the hours and minutes are placed all on the “active” side of the watch to face the inside of the wearer’s wrist? This is becoming the defacto avant-garde configuration for watches designed specifically for drivers since it makes for the easy reading of the time while the driver’s hands remain on the steering wheel… which brings us back to the Bugatti Atlantique, an “exceptional automobile” with a contrasting spine that Martin Frei says, “emphasizes absolute symmetry.”

Built in 1936 by Ettore Bugatti and inspired

by his earlier 1935 Bugatti Aerolithe concept, the Bugatti Atlantique was built of lightweight aluminum to enhance speed. More importantly, the curvaceous and aerodynamic Bugatti Atlantique featured a seam running down its central body to exalt its symmetry (sound familiar?). It also featured a vertical grille with speed lines so often featured on objects made during the Streamline Moderne period of the mid-1930s (the Pan-Pacific Auditorium in Los Angeles, and the Electrolux Vacuum cleaner of 1937 are great examples of this).

Taking its cues from the Bugatti, the hunter

“DOUBLE FLYING CARROUSELS WITH JUMPING TRIANGULAR PRISMS BRING YOU THE DIGITAL HOURS AND MINUTES IN A NOVEL YET QUINTESSENTIAL THREE-DIMENSIONAL URWERK FORMAT”

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case of the UR-112 Aggregat features a streamlined body, which was industrially designed with sweeping and rounded curves and a hunter cover flourished with speed lines. And like the Atlantique, it is made of a lightweight material, this time titanium, and even boasts a central seam traversing the case from one end to another.

The 42mm x 51mm x 16mm dimensions do not reveal the complex architecture of the case, which is made of black and gunmetal PVDcoated titanium, by the way. Viewed on the wrist, the armor-like, rectangular body of the case tapers from front to back, and features the central seam on the “caseback” where it transforms into the floating lugs when it reaches the extremities on both sides of the case.

Best of all, the watch only weighs 25.2 grams, which belies its complexity as a heavyweight mechanical tour de force that utilizes eight titanium planetary gears. Even more technically astounding is that the basic power (mainspring) and regulation of the self-winding UR-13.01 movement is on a traditionally horizontal plane while the display is perpendicular to it, with power being distributed by something akin to a driveshaft.

“From a single source of energy, we power all displays and mechanisms of this UR-112,” continued Baumgartner. “This force is distributed sparingly, some even "recycled" so that from the digital second at the top of the dial to the dragging minutes and the jumping hours at the opposite extreme, each display receives precisely its required dose of energy with none wasted.”

This “driveshaft” is a long, thin rod known as a cardan shaft that horizontally spans the central area between the left and right sections of the Aggregat to transmit the power required by the jumping hours, minutes and seconds. The shaft is geared at each end and transmits all the energy required from the barrel to the perpendicular “digital” time displays through a complex set of cogs and gears whilst hidden by that specially designed seam that runs the gamut of the case.

Additionally, despite the traditional finishes, which include circular and straight graining, sanding, côtes de Genève, and polished screw heads that decorate the movement, this, nor the automatic motor are anywhere to be seen, and are completely covered up by the hunter style case.

This first edition UR-112 Aggregat is limited to 25 pieces, and like most first editions from the brand, is presented in a matte finish with an anthracite body with black sides complemented by a cover in the same color, beautiful and elegant in a typical URWERK industrial-design way.

Feature

ONLY WATCH

THE ONLY WATCH FOR YOU U N I Q U E , P R E C I O U S , I N D I V I D UA L

Words by

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN

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Feature

ONLY WATCH

BY DEFINITION, ‘ONLY’ MEANS ‘AND NO ONE OR NOTHING MORE.’ One of a kind. Solitary. Unique.

And with that uniqueness comes exclusivity, distinction, and inimitability. Such are the watches from ONLY WATCH 2021.

The Only Watch auctions began years ago under the auspices of Luc Pettavino, Founder/Organizer of Only Watch and President of Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy). Watch brands were asked to create and donate a one-of-a-kind watch and the results have been breathtaking. For this year’s auction, Luc Pettavino said, “as the world emerges in the post-pandemic era, it is both humbling and gratifying to see how Only Watch’s message of hope, determination and confidence in the future has again resonated so strongly both with the community of watchmakers who contributed such masterpieces and the community of watch aficionados and generous donators who participated from around the world.”

This year’s Only Watch auction raised 30 million Swiss francs (30 million CHF). All in all from the nine years the auction has been in place, they have raised more than a total of 100 million Swiss francs, the equivalent of 95 million Euro, or 110 million US dollars, for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy is a genetic disorder characterized by progressive muscle degeneration and weakness, due to changes in a specific protein called dystrophin. Duchenne

Muscular Dystrophy, or DMD, is typically an early-childhood onset disorder and primarily affects boys, but in some cases, girls are also afflicted. The disorder was first noticed in the 1860s but until as recently as the 1980s, no specific cause could be identified. Current research shows that the degeneration or mutation of one specific protein seems to cause the cell weakness.

Research has been developing a drug in hopes that it will address that specific protein weakness.

The 53 watches had been on tour, the Only Watch World Tour, to showcase the magnificent timepieces in different cities: from Monaco, to Dubai, then Tokyo, Singapore, then Hong Kong, then to the cradle of all things horological, Geneva. With 850 people in attendance, it was an evening of fun and excitement led by Christie’s.

Having a good cause such as this to support is all the more reason to loosen the purse strings and aim high during an auction. Aside from getting to bid on, and hopefully win, a fantastic, one-of-akind watch from the most notable names in the horological world, you know the money is wellspent on funding worthwhile medical research.

As H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco declared open the 9th Edition of Only Watch, “We don’t often take the time to reflect on the progress that’s been made. But today, we should: we’ve come a long way. We are at the dawn of a clinical trial of a therapeutic solution that’s been elaborated thanks to ONLY WATCH funding. In the very near future, 12 boys and young men will be given a drug which researchers believe will alleviate the

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disease. To you all, Only Watch community… you have my gratitude.”

And loosen the purse strings these people did on the evening of November 6 in Geneva, as evidenced by the auction amount of 30 million Swiss francs (or 32.1 million US dollars).

The night saw 850 watch enthusiasts from 25 countries bidding, waiting, and bidding again, in hopes of getting The Watch. From the 53 watches on offer, each person had The One that made their eyes widen and their pulse beat faster.

Let’s take a closer look at some of these exquisite timepieces; yes, timepieces, because as you’ll see, there are some clocks amidst the watches.

The Complicated Desk Clock from Patek Philippe was inspired by a clock given to James Ward Packard, of the Packard Motor Car Company, back in 1923. The original is now in safekeeping at the Patek Philippe Museum. This clock for the Only Watch Auction, Ref. 27001M001, has a perpetual calendar, moon phases, week-number display, and a power-reserve indicator. The case is sterling silver with American walnut inlays, and vermeil decorative elements, with a yellow-gilt opaline dial. Powered by the 86135 PEND IRM Q SE, this clock was estimated at 400,000 to 500,000 CHF; it surpassed that estimation and had a final auction bid of 9.5 million Swiss francs.

The name Francis Ford Coppola might be familiar to the film buffs, and it might be surprising to know that he has spread his wings, so to say, and collaborated on a watch

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Feature

ONLY WATCH

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with François-Paul Journe. This year’s Only Watch offering from F. P. Journe, the FFC Blue, celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Octa Calibre 1300 and was inspired by the mechanical hand drawn by Ambroise Paré, father of modern surgery. You could say this was a collaboration across the ages and industries.

The most intriguing part of this watch is the hand. Yes, hand, singular. Instead of the typical hands pointing to hour and minute markers, there is a beautiful blue hand whose fingers will change positions to indicate the time. It’s fascinating to see, really. As François-Paul Journe narrates, “This watch was born in 2012 while having dinner at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in the Napa Valley. He asked me if it could be possible to tell time with a hand in a watch. I replied that the idea was interesting and required thinking about it. But how to display 12 hours with 5 fingers? It was not an easy matter and this complex challenge inspired and motivated me.

Once I figured it out, Francis immediately sent the sketches for the fingers positions. After more than 2 years, I could finally focus on “Fecit”.

After 7 years of development, I am proud to present the FFC prototype.” Estimated to pull in 300,000 to 400,000 CHF, this watch had a closing bid of 4.5 million CHF. The La Réciproque, Trilobe par Daniel Buren clock is entrancing to see. The black and white stripes make it seem basic due to the neutral color, but the watch is anything but once you take a closer look. Trilobe partnered with sculptor Daniel Buren to create a stunning piece of art.

The case is made of black and white sections, and it seems the dial is too. Once the rings move in a seeming dance on your dial, the true beauty of the watch is evident. It looks simple, but it really isn’t. Each circle indicates either hours, minutes, or seconds. The circles will continue to move throughout the day until the exact time when they align to create the solid columns of black and white, at precisely 2:13 PM. The clock can be set on a table or fixed on a wall. Estimated at 35,000 to 45,000 CHF, this clock had a closing bid of 100,000 CHF. The Ajourée Masy le Caméléon watch from Boucheron is dazzling and playful. A spirited chameleon is recreated in a mix of gemstones – diamonds, multicolored, sapphires, tsavorites, and ruby adorn the gentle white gold body. In the history of Boucheron, they have successfully created other animals on watches, such as a hedgehog, a cat, and a swallow. This year the craftsmen got to bring a chameleon to life.

This gentle chameleon had bidding close out at

“AS THE WORLD EMERGES IN THE POST-PANDEMIC ERA, IT IS BOTH HUMBLING AND GRATIFYING TO SEE HOW ONLY WATCH’S MESSAGE OF HOPE, DETERMINATION AND CONFIDENCE IN THE FUTURE HAS AGAIN RESONATED SO STRONGLY” 75,000 CHF. Not bad for a new best friend to have on your wrist.

For the motorsports fans, the Richard Mille watch for the Only Watch auction must have been of particular interest. The Formula 1 season for 2021 is coming to a close, with just 4 races left and Ferrari driver Charles Leclerc sitting in 6th position of the driver standings (as of this writing). The RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype is proof of the close partnership, and Richard Mille wanted to create a watch that would feel like a second skin to the driver. As those who follow F1 know, synergy between man and machine is critical. The watch is strong and sporty, with incredible shock resistance.

The white case with the red strap and accents is eye-catching, and as a nod to Leclerc himself, the titanium dial is painted in the colors of his

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flag. Estimated at 270,000 to 330,000 CHF, the watch had a closing bid of 2.1 million CHF. Why so high? Perhaps the accompanying passes for two to the next F1 race in Monaco, plus being VIP Guests of Scuderia Ferrari and getting to meet the man behind the watch, rather, the wheel, Charles Leclerc, explain the final bid. Definitely worth it for a Ferrari Tifosi and horology fan.

THE ONLY WATCH All these watches from the Only Watch auction are intricate pieces of art and master craftsmanship. There is something to appreciate about each one of them, but more important is the medical research that will be done as a result of the auction. After all, what better way to put to use your hard-earned money that by funding a way to improve life for others?

Timeframe

WORK HARD AND DREAM. Luxury in your home. This store drives great interest from a lady in Geneve, Switzerland.

(Heritage Geneve is a luxury brand which is best known for its unique patterned cushion collections.)

Photo by Keith Sundiang March 17, 2018 / 12:09 AM

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Parallel Passion

DESIRABLE DIVERSION

A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.

- Oscar Wilde