THE LUXURY OF TIME VOLUME 17 ISSUE 135
TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary
“PICTURE THE AUTAVIA FLYBACK BEHIND THE WHEEL OF A PORSCHE 917K, OR IN THE COCKPIT OF A WEST GERMAN F-4 PHANTOM II.”
A RETURN TO FORM PHP275
I SSN 19 0 8 - 49 9 4
M A RC H
20 22
MINUTES E DITOR' S
WO RDS
Two watches? What’s it like?
W
hy? I was recently asked, again, about what it was like to wear two watches at a time. One of them, to be clear, is a smartwatch. I have worn a Suunto fitness/ health tracker, a Fitbit, a Fossil, a TAG Heuer Connected and a series of Apple watches over the years. The larger smartwatches such as the first Suunto and the more recent Fossil and Samsung and TAG Heuer smart/ connected watches would go on my left wrist while the smaller fitness watches like the different Fitbits and the Apples would go on my dominant right hand. So I could still use the usual suspect watches on my left wrist. The question most recently though was not about the choice to use two watches at a time, but rather the ease of integrating yet another charge-needing gadget into your life. Good question, and it came from someone in the watch industry. Much of the watch industry considered the arrival of the smartwatch as an very very bad omen. I didn’t necessarily agree to that. I thought that while yes it may move some previous watch-wearers from traditional to technical, it would also pull from the nonwatch-wearing group. Which would get more
2 |
www.calibremagazine.com
people used to wearing something on their wrist again. Which I thought was a good thing. Anyway so the question was about adding the charge-needing gadget, and it really hasn’t been an issue. In something like the more modern Apple Watches, the newer TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 and such, you have the ability to adjust power consumption pretty much to your liking so how often you need to charge is within your control. I have it down to
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief
carsandcalibres
once a day for about the time to take a shower or something when I am home. It is really a non-issue. This can change of course with travel, where smart and connected watches can shine, particularly ones like the new LV Tambour Horizon Light Up Connected. You can take advantage of the connected abilities but you also have to bring yet another charging cable with you, or two if you believe these cords are way too easy to lose. In general though, the technology for handling battery use has gotten much better and batteries themselves have gotten more efficient. So the charging part of the equation becomes less and less important in daily life. I have gotten used to, and like, wearing an Apple Watch on my right wrist and the usual suspects on my left. Some people comment, particularly in our car videos, that I am wearing two watches especially when they see focus on the steering wheel. But in general everyday life, in meetings and presentations and conferences and so on it is a non-issue. It is simply a way of using a particular technological tool for a particular task. Which, when you think about it, is what watches have been doing all along. Plus you get to play with twice as many straps.
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents COVER WATCH
30 TAG Heuer
Raises the bar on electronic luxury
4 www.calibremagazine.com
“You can’t cry on a diamond’s shoulder and diamonds won’t keep you warm at night, but they’re sure fun when the sun shines.” — Elizabeth Taylor
jewelry
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents FEATURES
38 Patek Philippe Resonates with a new minute repeater
44 Girard-Perregaux Takes the mysterious La Esmeralda to the next level
6 www.calibremagazine.com
MARC H
2022
Contents FEATURES
48 Bulgari
Sounds the gongs of chiming mastery
52 Panerai
A watch in honour of Geneva
7 www.calibremagazine.com
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents FEATURES
56 Omega
Defies expectations with an age-defying Speedmaster
60 Zenith
Springs a three-handed surprise
8 www.calibremagazine.com
MARC H
2022
Contents FEATURES
64 Louis Vuitton
Luxury connection at its finest
68 IWC
Presented in titanium and bronze
9 www.calibremagazine.com
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents FEATURES
72 Frederique Constant
A first-time color dial for its flagship model
76 Urwerk
Displays spacetime with a dark element
10 www.calibremagazine.com
MARC H
2022
Contents FEATURES
80 Oris
A watch fit for a King
84 H. Moser & Cie.
Collaborates with The Armoury
11 www.calibremagazine.com
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents FEATURES
88 Hamilton
Gives this Jazzmaster a shot in the heart
90 Rolex
The watch for the strong and beautiful
12 www.calibremagazine.com
“A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life.” — Oscar Wilde
parallel passion
M A R CH
2 02 2
Contents REGULARS
02 Minutes
Carl S. Cunanan
18 Tempus Incognitum
JP C. Calimbas
20 Back to Basics
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
22 Vintage Explorer
Jose Martin V. Ursúa
24 The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World
28 Parallel Passion Pictures in time as we travel the world
96 Timeframe
Pictures in time as we travel the world
14 www.calibremagazine.com
“Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter.” — Gay Talese, Author
parallel passion
MASTHEAD
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief
Mayette L. Asis Vice President
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher
Executive Editor Joseph Peter C. Calimbas
Advertising Manager Leslie G. Maxilom
Chairman Michael L. Lhuillier
Senior Editor Hernan C. Mapua
Advertising Traffic Manager Mary Jane O. Salazar
Managing Director Paolo M. Puyat-Martel
Collections Editor Jason S. Ang
Board of Directors Michael L. Lhuillier Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco
Associate Editor Kit O. Payumo Senior Staff Writer Alberto E. Casal
Senior Accountant Merline B. Urdas
Editor-at-Large Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Credit and Collection Officer Mary Ann M. Benito
Design Director Charie L. Biaden
On The Cover
Senior Designer Mark David A. See
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. 14th floor , 88 Corporate Center, 141 Valero corner Sedeño St., Salcedo Village Makati City 1227 Philippines Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 Visit: www.calibremagazine.com
Designer Mary Ann E. Marcelo Contributing Writers Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich Santos Dominique O. Cerqueda
Legal Counsel Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office
Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Volume 17 Issue 135 March 2022
#5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City Tel: (+632) 7945-5089
Contributing Photographer Keith Sundiang @calibremagazineph
Calibre Magazine PH
facebook.com/calibremagazineph
twitter.com/calibremagph
Copyright © 2022 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.
M A RC H
20 22
TEMPUS INCOGNITUM
The Hype Is Real
W
ithout a doubt, the Patek Philippe Reference 5711 steel Nautilus is one of the most iconic and desired timepieces out there. There was a time in a distant past that I was actually yet unrealistically deciding on picking one up since it is one of my grail watches. Back then, the price of the 5711 was reasonable and fair. Before social media became an actual market force. Before the “Hype” effect came into play. When Patek Philippe announced that the steel Nautilus was being discontinued after a 15-year run, watch enthusiasts knew its value would head north. But even the most optimistic Patek Philippe super fan couldn’t have possibly dreamed of the heights the 5711’s value would skyrocket to. I am not even talking about the $6.5M price the last of the 170-piece Tiffany blue editions went for at auction. To me, that was actually a steal because the proceeds were going to a worthy charitable cause. Paying 6,450,000 or thereabouts over retail and helping out nature conservation (I am uncertain if this is tax deductible too) is a win-win for the winning bidder in my opinion. The other Tiffany-branded brethren of the “chosen one” purportedly went to 169 of Patek Philippe’s dearest clients who likely paid
18 |
www.calibremagazine.com
“Good or bad, hype drives the market today”
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
retail and at this time, won’t be entertaining offers of ANY kind. Well, maybe at the amount in which Aurelio Bacs’ gavel came down would make them think about selling for a split second. As the news of this made its way around the world thanks to the wonders of highspeed internet and Starlink for those in areas unreachable by fiber optic cable, the prices of every other 5711 in existence started to reach for the stars as well. The last iteration of the 5711 was the olive green-dialed Ref. 5711/1A014 and was reported to have a MSRP of around $52,000. If I’m not mistaken, a wayward piece found its way to an auction and sold for $400,000. Pretty much the going price for it now. Chances are, whatever dial color 5711 you are lucky enough to find with an owner willing to part with it will not only cost you an arm and a leg, but the torso they’re connected to as well. Including organs inside. Thanks to the hype train, even the Rolex OP with a blue dial that is acknowledged to be similar to the Tiffany shade found in the 5711 has become in demand and able to command at least 6X its retail price. For the rest of us with no hope of snagging either an OP or a 5711, well there is the Casio Oak Tiffany-ish blue out there. But even that is selling higher than the other Casio Oaks. Ever so slightly higher but higher nonetheless. Such is the power of hype.
Quality desrves time.
M A RC H
20 22
BACK TO BASICS
Rolex, Patek Philippe, And Everything Else
A
s someone who has taken this hobby quite seriously for a number of years now, price increases are nothing new to me. In any given year, we would hear about a 10% price increase from the authorized dealer of brand A, then another increase from brand B. It’s normal and is even expected in certain cases. When the pandemic started 2 years ago, the world initially seemed to stand still as the watch industry tried to navigate as best as it could in this ‘new normal’ of virtual watch fairs. Of course, there was also the obvious need to focus on online marketing and/ or digital sales channels in order to survive. Despite these initial difficulties, the watch industry gradually recovered and prices never truly went down in any significant way. Since I’ve been more than just a little preoccupied with life outside of the watch world the past 2 years, I haven’t really paid too much attention to watch prices recently. I know that Rolex and Patek Philippe authorized dealer prices have gone up as usual, but I didn’t realize how crazy high gray market prices are at the moment. And quite frankly, there is no reason for these prices to go down any time soon. Previously attainable and available Rolex steel models such as the basic Oyster Perpetual and the Datejust are trading at a premium already at the gray market due to high demand. Even supposedly polarizing models such as the latest version of the Air King are
20 |
www.calibremagazine.com
“Despite all of these price increases, getting a bargain is still possible in this day and age. Just don’t look for one from Rolex and Patek Philippe.”
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large
frequently sold out at any authorized dealer. Demand for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Aquanaut has far outstripped supply for several years now. A small fortune was previously involved in the purchase of any of these timepieces from the gray market. Even if these models were already outrageously priced some years ago, now market prices have gone up to astronomical heights. A couple of years ago, Omega was usually a good place to start if you were looking for a well-made, well-priced pre-owned watch. Nowadays, that’s not always the case. Speedmaster prices have increased quite a bit at the gray market, and even their other product lines are no longer as inexpensive as they once were. Despite all of these price increases, getting a bargain is still possible in this day and age. Just don’t look for one from Rolex and Patek Philippe.
Time passes irrevocably.
M A RC H
20 22
VINTAGE EXPLORER For Your Reading and Viewing Pleasure
I
t is -16°C as I write this column, midway through the coldest winter I’ve experienced since moving to Toronto. Meanwhile, watch news has slowed to a trickle in the run-up to Baselworld and SIHH, or whatever terrible names they’ve been rebranded with. These are the doldrums, but I will refrain from writing yet another reaction piece to the outrageous prices of ordinary watches with turquoise dials. (Sadly, that is the biggest watch story of 2021!) Instead, allow me to recommend horological content in other media.
The Times of My Life: You Don’t Know Jack
Elsewhere in this issue of Calibre, we look at new watches unveiled by TAG Heuer to celebrate 60 years of the Autavia. Even more remarkable than this anniversary is the forthcoming 90th birthday of Jack Heuer, former principal of Heuer S.A. and greatgrandson of its founder. In 2013 he wrote his autobiography, titled The Times of My Life, which was published by TAG Heuer. Links to the free PDF can be easily found with a brief Google search. Swiss watch companies are notoriously secretive, so it is a rare treat to get a first-hand perspective from one of its brightest lights. We learn about Jack’s childhood and his endeavours post-Heuer, but the real meat of his story is the quarter-century in the family business. He gives detailed accounts on the creation of iconic watches, his pioneering forays into motorsports sponsorship, and much more. Less happily, Jack also recounts the desperation of the quartz crisis, eventual
22 |
www.calibremagazine.com
buyout by TAG, and his ouster as CEO. You can still sense the contempt that burns for Valentin Piaget, whose betrayal cut deepest. The memoir ends on an upbeat note, with his reconciliation with TAG Heuer and appointment as honorary CEO. The Times of My Life is a fascinating look into the man’s personality and attitudes, as well as a partial history of Heuer.
The Watchmaker’s Apprentice: Frustratingly Shallow
This entire piece was originally intended to be a review of the 2015 documentary, The Watchmaker’s Apprentice. It is about legendary watchmaker George Daniels, and Roger Smith’s years-long obsession to become his
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
apprentice. But the more I thought about it, the weaker my recommendation became. Yes, it is a fascinating glimpse into the eccentric nature of Daniels, who is an exemplar of the word “boffin.” Unfortunately, it loses its way after Smith wins that apprenticeship, and wastes time on freshman-level metaphysical musings about the nature of time. How ironic! It also helps if the viewer is already familiar with Daniels’ story and achievements; otherwise, there will be substantial gaps in comprehension. Narrator John Rhys-Davies is ill-served by a lightweight script, and drowned out by an obnoxious soundtrack. It is a missed opportunity, especially as Dr. Daniels is no longer with us. Happily, my frustration with this film did lead me to rewatch the last horological movie that I enjoyed: Longitude.
Longitude: The Benchmark
Longitude is a TV movie from 2000, based on the bestseller by Dava Sobel. It is a gripping story about John Harrison’s quest to create a marine chronometer, and his decades-long political battles against the Board of Longitude for his just reward. I’ve written here about the subject before, but in brief: Determining longitude was the greatest scientific problem of its time, as both the lives of seafarers and the naval strength of empires depended on accurate navigation. There is also the parallel story of Cdr. Rupert Gould, a broken veteran who, between the wars, obsessed over the restoration of Harrison’s clocks. Sadly, this came at the cost of his family, his reputation, and the remnants of his mental health. This adaptation has a star-studded cast, featuring Michael Gambon, Jeremy Irons, Brian Cox, and Bill Nighy. It is tightly-written, very well-acted, and the story is surprisingly emotional considering the apparent dryness of the subject. Whether you have a deep love or just a passing interest in the Age of Sail or clockmaking, Longitude is compelling, enlightening, and the best movie on horology that I have ever seen. It is available on YouTube — not DVD-quality (let alone 4K), but more than acceptable.
“The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time.” — Bertrand Russell
M A RC H
20 22
THE WIND-UP Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
© Alfred Gregory/Royal Geographic Society
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their climb to the top of Everest.
© Alessio Romeo
Oköimo Yeuta caves in Auyan Tepui, Venezuela, a site studied by Francesco Sauro.
THE NEXT FRONTIER
Rolex gives another Explorer timepiece superlative trekking credentials
L
ast year, Rolex treated the Rolex-faithful with changes to their premier “trek anywhere” timepiece, the Explorer. These changes came on the heels of a full reworking of the entire Submariner
range, and included a welcome return to the Explorer’s original 36mm size. Indeed, the changes were vital in the brand’s pursuit to take exploration “further up the highest mountain peaks,” and “down to the most isolated of polar regions.” But unbeknownst to many another Rolex favorite also benefitted from those relentless pursuits. Marking its 50th anniversary in 2021, Rolex’s most eccentric sports watch, the handsome and
edged with fine fluting that is hermetically
of precision, power reserve, resistance
unconventional Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, also got
screwed down with a special tool; a
to shocks and magnetic fields, as well as
its due primarily with a new movement. Best of all, visual
Twinlock winding crown fitted with a
unparalleled convenience and reliability.
balance and harmony were “enhanced” (why fix what
double waterproofness system protected
isn’t broke?) thanks to a redesigned case and bracelet,
by integral crown guards that screw down
and manufactured by Rolex, the dual-
all of which were done very subtly, of course. Otherwise,
securely against the case; and a crystal
time Calibre 3285 made its debut in
its defining elements, including its “maxi” layout and
made of virtually scratchproof sapphire
the Explorer II in 2021, making it the
proportions, its oversized central 24-hour hand coated in
with a Cyclops lens fitted at 3 o’clock for
second timepiece to be powered by this
orange, its 42mm Oystersteel case, and its radial-brushed
the easy reading of the date.
superlative calibre along with the GMT-
bezel with a 24-hour scale, remained the same. This means the hardy Explorer II is still guaranteed
Further, this new-generation Explorer
Released in 2018 and entirely developed
Master II. The movement incorporates
II is equipped with the latest of the
a nickel-phosphorus Chronergy
water proof down to 100 meters thanks to a middle case
brand’s next generation of movement,
escapement patented by Rolex, which
crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel; a caseback
which offers fundamental gains in terms
makes it insensitive to magnetic fields;
24 |
www.calibremagazine.com
is optimized with a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring equipped with a Rolex overcoil to ensure regularity in any position; Paraflex shock absorbers for more forceful shock resistance; and a specially designed barrel, which combined with the escapement’s superior efficiency extends the power reserve of calibre 3285 to 70 hours. Oh, and did we mention the second time zone? That’s right, most other watches with a 24-hour display will use this capability “merely” to show a second timezone, but on a watch that was engineered primarily for explorers braving the most extreme conditions at the farthest corners of the © Rolex/JVA Studios
globe, this particular expertise takes on a whole other dimension. Indeed, the one-two punch of the orange hour hand and engraved brushed steel bezel of the 24-hour display on the Explorer II gives the wearer carte blanche to clearly distinguish daytime from night-time hours, a skill particularly useful in the extreme parts of the planet that the Explorer II regularly
Ed Viesturs climbed Lhotse in 1994. Having summited Everest seven days earlier, he was acclimatized to make a fast ascent in three days.
calls it’s back yard. That’s right, those far-flung corners of the world, which hardier individuals call their home, and where it is difficult (or even impossible) to distinguish between day and night, such as deep underground, or at the polar regions, which experience six months of daylight and six months of darkness every year. Additionally, that well-known threepiece affair developed at the end of the 1930s called the Oyster bracelet makes its appearance on the new Explorer II, here slightly wider at its widest point at 22mm for that improved visual balance and harmony. It is enhanced with an Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which was designed and patented by Rolex to prevent accidental opening, as well as the Easylink comfort extension link, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5mm. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case. Last but not least, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II remains true to its heritage
© Rob Hall
by being covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification as symbolized by that highly coveted green seal, which is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 25
THE WIND-UP
CERTIFIED BLACK TUDOR obtains a Master Chronometer certification from METAS
A
ccording to their official website METAS is where Switzerland, “Is at its most accurate,” and is, in fact, the appointed “Guardian
of measurement units” in Switzerland. Also known as the Federal Institute of Metrology, METAS is the federal body concerned with all issues related to measurement, measuring equipment, and measuring procedures. Indeed, a government institute of vital importance in a country like Switzerland, METAS is the governing body that TUDOR has tapped for the very first time. The timepiece in question is the new TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic, which we must admit is one fine looking watch, and that’s primarily due to the blackness of it all. Having slipped entirely (and quite comfortably) into the Dark Side, the Black Bay Ceramic presents a hitherto previously unknown side of the collection…that of a design forward timepiece that eschews any and all pretense of retro-nostalgia appeal. Instead, this new Black Bay stands proud with matte black textures that flash nary a spec of color anywhere (not even on the bezel). Indeed, there are no longer any vintage watch cues to be found here, only slick contemporary considerations that (uncharacteristically) shows an evolutionary design forward for TUDOR. And that’s with all the previous greatest-hits design cues from vintage TUDOR dive watches present and accounted for. That means the snowflake hand first introduced in the TUDOR diving watches in 1969 still makes its requisite appearance. As does the slab-sided case design, and big crown that first appeared in 1954. Except on the new TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic everything has been slickly rendered in matte black. Just like the rest of the Black Bay Ceramic, the METAS-certified Calibre
26 |
www.calibremagazine.com
THE WIND-UP
MT5602-1U is also darkly handsome in its black countenance with satin-brushed and sand blasted details all in black. This includes an openworked black tungsten monobloc rotor, as well as bridges and a black mainplate that have alternate sand blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. But all this dark “newness” is only the jumping off point for the comprehensive METAS Master Chronometer certification, which applies to the whole watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. And the new TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic has, indeed, achieved all the test and prerequisites for Master Chronometer certification, as summarized below: • Swiss made • Certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) • Precision at two temperatures in six The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U
different positions and at two different levels of power reserve: 100%, and 33% • Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure • Waterproofness to 200m (660 feet) in accordance with ISO standard 22810:2010 • 70-hour power reserve
Designed to ensure robustness and precision, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U features a variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge fixed at two points. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the movement is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0+5). Indeed, as part of the constant pursuit in the improvement of its products TUDOR has successfully obtained a Master Chronometer certification as specified by METAS. This marks the first time any standard of this kind has been applied to a watch in the TUDOR collection, and means that for the first time TUDOR can offer accreditation from an independent body, confirming the excellent quality of its timepieces. Best of all, it verifies that the TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic will never be in the red, but will always be in the black.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 27
M A RC H
20 22
PARALLEL PASSION Desirable Diversion
The Blue Hour Montblanc... ballpoint. When we pry ourselves away from proper nibs Meisterstück Solitaire Blue Hour Midsize Ballpoint Pen
Words by
Carl S. Cunanan
W
e do love our fountain pens. We love the way they feel when we use them. We also love the craftsmanship that goes into them. The lacquerwork or metalwork or guilloche of proper premium
fountain pens. During the last two years though, when we have been moving around far less than ever before, we found ourselves wanting for a good “non-fountain” pen. One that didn’t deviate too far from our tactile and aesthetic demands, one that felt the way it should. But not like the collection of bronze and titanium pens we have been collecting of late that look like they could and should be stopped at airport checks. It was quite a surprise then that we ended up with The Blue Hour… ballpoint. And it fit in quite well with the collection, thank you. It has a somewhat transparent blue lacquer over an engraved hexagonal-pattern surface, and what that does is it makes the pen look different in different light. It can be a little bling in direct sunlight, but is also quite sedate and regal in most situations. The name Blue Hour is supposed to remind you of the hour as day turns to night and things start reflecting differently in a darkening cityscape. That’s fine. Most of the time it looks pleasantly textured (though it is smooth to the touch) with a little brightness when the
28 |
www.calibremagazine.com
light hits the lacquer-covered engraving or the platinumcoated furniture (what pen geeks call the fittings, ribs, clips and so on). It is in the Meisterstück family, so there is heft. And it has the traditional snow cap/star surrounded in black and then platinum. So it has some nice pocket-peeking flex (if flex is still a word we can use) while still being rather subtle. It was surprising how well this ballpoint fit into the collection and into rotation of use. With all the different filling out of forms and contact traces and so on we have been going through lately, the sometimes delicate nibs of collectible fountain pens just weren’t really a good fit. And the need for constant cleaning could make many a maki-e collector cringe. But we have also moved past the roughtough-tactical pen stage that we were into at the start of the pandemic. This is a nice way to get back into the proper flow of things. And, happily, it also fits into the properly-sized pen slots of the Montblanc bags.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 29
COVER WATCH
A Return to Form TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary
Words by
Jose Martin V. Ursúa
www.calibremagazine.com
| 31
COVER WATCH
“A
utavia” is one of the oldest names in TAG Heuer’s history, first appearing on dashboard-mounted stopwatches in the 1930s. In 1962, at the start of Jack Heuer’s stewardship of the family business, the Autavia was transformed into a wristwatch. For the next 57 years, the Autavia performed chronographic functions befitting its name, a portmanteau of “automobile” and “aviation.” For most of its existence, Heuer was first and foremost a stopwatch and chronograph company. So it was to the chagrin of purists when, in 2019, the Autavia was reinvented as an “adventure watch” without any stopwatch at all. Three years on and TAG Heuer unveils three new models to the Autavia lineup: Two of these revive the chronograph from its brief hiatus, while the third adds a useful GMT complication to the regular Autavia. Together, the trinity are known as the TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary.
32 |
www.calibremagazine.com
The 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph comes in two flavors, each imbuing the Autavia with its own distinct character. The heart beating beneath the dials of both types is the same: Calibre Heuer 02, which debuted in the Autavia Heritage of 2017, and is now the flagship chronograph movement for the brand (not counting the limited Heuer 02T with tourbillion). This supplants Cal. Heuer 01 (aka 1887) that was controversially derived on a Seiko movement. The in-house Cal. Heuer 02 is a 28,800 bph, COSC-certified automatic movement featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch. The last two are features desired by many connoisseurs for aesthetic and mechanical elegance. A power reserve of 80 hours is generous, especially considering the calibre’s slimness at 6.9mm. This is a full 1mm thinner than, say, the ubiquitous ETA 7750. The most important feature is in the name: A flyback complication allows a reset to zero without interrupting a running stopwatch.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 33
COVER WATCH
34 |
www.calibremagazine.com
The silver Flyback addresses the automotive half of the Autavia name. It bears a traditional silver sunburst dial with contrasting hour and minute counters, all framed by a black ceramic bezel and stainless-steel case. The runningseconds subdial at 6 o’clock is also in silver, and is consequently less visible against its background. This may be intentional, as the overall appearance recalls the automatic Autavias that were sold from 1969 until the 1980s (e.g. classics like the “Jo Siffert” and “Viceroy”), most of which displayed only two subdials and have strong associations with motorsports. Luminescent material on the hands and hour numerals is in off-white, further highlighting the retro appeal of this model. A more modern-looking alternative can be had with the 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph in black. Yes, this variant’s full name is identical to the silver’s, but there is no mistaking its DLC-coated case, flat black dial, and even black stitches on its alligator strap. Hands and numerals are coated in green Super Luminova. Once again, there is surely no coincidence in how the black
Flyback echoes the military-inspired “Bund” Autavia of the 1970s. That much sought-after model was so named for its resemblance to watches issued in the Bundesluftwaffe. Out of the entire 2022 TAG Heuer catalog, this is the one model that comes closest to the Pilot Watch ideal. “Avia” — check. Last but not least in the Autavia 60th Anniversary lineup is the GMT 3 Hands. Its Calibre 7 is based on the venerable and all-but-
bombproof ETA 2892. Also COSC-certified, this 28,800bph movement offers a 42-hour power reserve and an independently-set GMT hand. Although it may look like a standard steel Autavia with blue dial at first glance, the GMT sets itself apart with a brilliant sunburst dial, flashes of orange, and a Batman-like blue-black ceramic bezel with hour markers. It is perfect for the collector who already loves the new Autavia, but wants a bit more utility.
Since 1962, the Autavia has performed functions befitting its name, a portmanteau of “automobile” and “aviation.”
www.calibremagazine.com
| 35
COVER WATCH
“Picture the Autavia Flyback behind the wheel of a Porsche 917K, or in the cockpit of a West German F-4 Phantom II.” The 2017 Heuer Autavia was an explicitly retro watch, copying many details of the original chronograph from the early 1960s. However, its basic proportions were big, chunky, and modern. The 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph is its opposite, with details that don’t quite line up with any historical Autavia. But despite a similarly large size (42mm case diameter), it has a delicacy that recalls watches of bygone eras. You could easily picture the silver Flyback behind the wheel of a Porsche 917K, and the black Flyback in the cockpit of a West German F-4 Phantom II. Meanwhile the GMT 3 Hand has a look that, like the base Autavia, is more uniformly contemporary, but with an added sprinkling of vintage details to delight the eye. After 60 years on the wrist, the Autavia has something for everyone.
36 |
www.calibremagazine.com
M A RC H
20 22
FEATURES Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
Fortissimo
FEATURE
Patek Philippe breaks another barrier of sound Words by
Kit Payumo
www.calibremagazine.com
| 39
FEATURE
T
he term “fortissimo” means “very loud,” or is a “very loud passage, sound, or tone,” and is a term used specifically as a direction or description of music; i.e. “The movement ends with a fortissimo coda,” or “Tchaikovsky’s fortissimos are given plenty of weight in the bass.” For our purposes here, however, “fortissimo” is a term that the engineers at the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” division took to heart as they developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system for their latest minute repeater. Founded in 2005, the Advanced Research division is responsible for many of the brand’s more technical innovations including high-end materials research. But Patek Philippe considers innovations to be meaningful only if they offer the user genuine added value in terms of quality, precision, and dependability in the long run. This is why among the divisions’ “greatest hits” is their pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar, a derivative of silicon that is not only temperature compensating, but is also lightweight, lubricantfree, and antimagnetic. The manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar in 2005, followed by the Spiromax balance spring in 2006. The Pulsomax escapement came in 2008, while the Oscillomax ensemble was launched in 2011. A further optimized version of the Spiromax balance spring was introduced in 2017 and is, in fact, standard equipment on all current Patek Philippe watch collections today. Most recently, the division has been working on extending minute repeater technology. Anyone even remotely familiar with the brand will know that Patek Philippe has substantial experience with the complication (to say the least), and has in fact, one of the most extensive collections of chiming watches (minute repeaters or otherwise) in the industry. And at the center of it all is the newly developed 342-component self-winding Calibre R 27 PS, a new 3Hz movement that boasts three new patents, and sees the basic architecture of the long-standing Calibre R 27 modified with an additional mechanical loudspeaker of sorts on the bridge side (that’s the side facing down) called the fortissimo “ff” module. Unlike normal loudspeakers, however, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm attached to the periphery of the module like the skin of a drum. Instead, the engineers at the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” division developed an oscillating wafer made of a 0.2mm thick
40 |
www.calibremagazine.com
synthetic sapphire that floats “freely” to amplify the sound transmission coming from the gongs of the minute repeater. That’s right, a wafer made of synthetic sapphire, and believe it or not, not only does this rigid and freely moveable wafer provide much better sound propagation transmitted from the confined volume of a wristwatch, but its transparency also provided an unobstructed view of the movement through the caseback. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, however, the engineers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production. Premier of which was how to transmit the sound from the gongs to the wafer. The answer (and the second patent filed by Patek Philippe) was to create a system composed of a steel sound lever attached to the middle of the oscillating wafer. Resembling, for all intents and purposes, a tuning fork, this lever features a 0.08mm thick
flexible attachment that transmits the vibrations of the gongs to the rigid oscillating wafer after they are struck. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer then excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass thereby producing a clearer and noticeably louder sound. But the innovations didn’t stop there. The sound engineers knew that they still had a couple more obstacles on the path to clearer and louder sound transmission. Which is why parallel to the development of the fortissimo “ff” module, the team had to find a better way of getting the sound out to the outside world. Classic minute repeaters utilize the entire case of the watch, including the case band, the caseback and sapphire crystal to transmit the sound created by the hammers striking the gongs. And there lies the problem: case material has a significant impact on the quality of the sound; rose gold, for example, is known to have the best sound propagation among the precious metals, while
Polished platinum case, 40 mm in diameter, inspired by Reference 5178 White gold dial with snailed black nickel-plated base, openworked spoketype decor, faceted applied hour markers in blackened white gold and rotating small seconds disk at 6 o’clock
FEATURE
platinum, with its higher material density, is known to be the opposite and is known to be one of the worst materials for sound propagation. This is why the engineers at the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” division decided to attack the problem from a completely different direction by eliminating the case altogether from the equation. For their latest minute repeater the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module is insulated from the movement by a ring made of a high-tech polymer. This acoustically separates the module from the movement and effectively disengages it from the case. The gong strike is, thus, first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer,
42 |
www.calibremagazine.com
which is then “sent” through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock in a titanium ring. The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band where a dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. This makes the case material a non-issue because it no longer influences the sound and its propagation, which will always be of the same quality regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum. And still that’s not all. Apart from the new fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and
design factors. The minute repeater hammers, for example were originally made of steel but in this case were replaced with (wait for it) platinum. Yes, we just finished saying that platinum is not exactly the best material for sound propagation but its higher density makes the heavier material ideal for the hammers and their striking function. This patented solution not only improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, but it also produces a softer strike without reducing its sonority. And the benefits of platinum don’t stop there: a platinum minirotor replaces the eccentrically recessed 22K gold minirotor, which, thanks once again to its greater material density, delivers the same winding power despite having a thinner design, an aspect that partially offsets the thickness of the fortissimo module. This resulted in the Calibre R 27 PS movement that is only 6.05mm thick, and one that created a distinctly louder and completely distinct chime from other minute repeaters as amplified by the fortissimo module. In fact, the new minute repeater sounds just as loud and harmonious from a distance of 60 meters as a classic minute repeater from a distance of only 10 meters. And realizing they had a winner on their hands the engineers went the extra mile by actually slowing the movement down. This created the benefit of longer chimes. The chimes of Patek Philippe minute repeaters are known for their long and resonant fade outs, usually around 17 to 18 seconds. The chime as amplified by
the fortissimo module was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the harmonious chimes of the gongs to linger and fade somewhat longer. Featuring the Gyromax balance spring in Silinvar developed in 2006 by the Patek Philippe Advanced Research division, the self-winding Caliber R 27 PS beats at the frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and boasts a power reserve of 43 to 48 hours. And to prove the effectiveness of their newly developed module, Patek Philippe chose to present their exclusive sound amplification system within the worst material known for sound transmission and propagation: 950 platinum. This is why, at launch, the 15-piece limited edition Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo Minute Repeater is being presented in a sleek 40mm x 11.1mm case machined from a single piece of 950 platinum with a slightly domed bezel, which was inspired by the classic Ref. 5178 Minute Repeater. Time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold, but it is the center of the elaborately constructed dial that steals the show. An openworked spoke-like pattern that, according to Thierry Stern himself, was inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles (a nod to the connection between high end horology and the automotive industry, perhaps?) allows the 15-piece limited edition Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo Minute Repeater to stand out. The pattern sharply contrasts against a background of black spiraling lines, and is complemented by a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock that consists of a rotating disc with the same openworked pattern and a small marker that serves as the hand. This mobile element creates a unique, and dynamic effect, and further bolsters the connection between watches and automobiles. Turn the watch over and at first glance the Caliber R 27 PS as viewed from the sapphire crystal caseback looks to be just like any other minute repeater movement. That is until the steel sound lever with its 0.08mm thick flexible tuning fork arm is noticed. This is also around the time that the 0.2mm thick synthetic sapphire of the oscillating wafer attached to the arm is noticed as well. Otherwise, the rest of the movement is Patek Philippe-business-as-usual including the hammers and gongs of the minute repeater; the pierced Calatrava cross that decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor ensuring the regular rhythm of the time strikes; the Gyromax balance spring in Silinvar; the large bridge with Geneva striping with carefully chamfered and polished edges; as well as the 950 platinum minirotor
“An oscillating wafer made of a 0.2mm thick synthetic sapphire floats “freely” to amplify the sound transmission coming from the gongs of the minute repeater.” sporting a spoked pattern in the style of the dial. This, by the way, was created using a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. Last but not least, the 15-piece limited special edition Ref. 5750P “Advanced Research” Fortissimo Minute Repeater is worn on a VERY shiny and VERY orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp that literally screams LOOK AT ME! (Or should that say listen
to me?) But considering the watch is literally an exhibition model that showcases the newest innovations in minute repeater technology, the color seems entirely appropriate. Price will only be available upon request but let’s be real: it’s a Patek Philippe minute repeater that features no less than four entirely new patents from the Manufacture’s Advanced Research division and is limited to only 15 pieces worldwide … the price will be astronomically high.
FEATURE
The Equine Mystery Girard-Perregaux salutes an iconic 1889 pocket watch Words by
Kit Payumo
I
n 1867, Constant Girard, a brilliant watchmaker who spent a significant portion of his life dedicated to the field of chronometry, entered the Observatoire of Neuchâtel competition where his tourbillon chronometer equipped with three nickel silver bridges won first prize. Later that same year, the same pocket watch won again at the Exposition Universelle, in Paris. Unbeknownst to Girard at the time, was that milestone was the beginning of what would become a storied journey of success for himself, and the company that would carry his name. Indeed, what was so distinct about the watchmaker and his timepiece was that Girard didn’t confine himself with technical details alone but also concentrated in refining the architecture of his movements. The result was the famous three bridges, which were not only functional, but were also designed to be part of the overall aesthetic of the timepiece. Thus, they were not only designed to be visible, but also designed to literally stand out. So distinct, in fact, were the three bridges that not only has the design stood the test of time, but also it has become the signature of Girard-Perregaux, the watchmaking company as it is known today. Further, it eventually became ennobled, transitioning from the nickel silver found on the early pocket watches to the now famous golden bridges, and has, in fact, become
44 |
www.calibremagazine.com
La Esmeralda watch
The most celebrated example of the Tourbillon with the Three Gold Bridges, Constant Girard's masterpiece, designed in 1889.
increasingly stylized over the years (even more so in this case, but more on that later). But it was in 1889 that Girard would visit Paris again to enter another pocket watch in that year’s Exposition Universelle. Called, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, the exquisite piece was fitted with a detent escapement, and housed in a sumptuous 56mm pink gold case elaborately engraved by Fritz Kundert, an acclaimed artisan
based in the Neuchâtel mountains. Needless to say the watch went on to take the top prizes at the Exposition Universelle, after which it was handed off to jewellery retailer, Hauser, Ziwy & Co, which operated ‘La Esmeralda’ stores in Paris and Mexico, and who was tasked with selling the prize-winning watch. In due time, the pocket watch itself became known as “La Esmeralda,” and was eventually sold to Porfirio Diaz, then president of Mexico (18301915). But in 1970, a descendent of the president offered the Manufacture the opportunity to “buy back” the watch, which now forms a significant part of the Maison’s museum collection. Indeed, La Esmeralda was a highly precise pocket watch, the charms of which were not merely restricted to its golden bridges. It also featured a sumptuous white grand feu enamel dial, and Poire Stuart hour and minute hands with a filigreed design. But it was the savonette case with a hinged dust cover that particularly stood out, because it was beautifully engraved with three horses, the significance of which has been lost over time. Indeed, despite the extensive archives at the disposal of the Maison, Girard-Perregaux can find no record regarding the significance of the said horses. And despite thorough research on the subject, any clue regarding the equine trio has led nowhere. Which is why over the years the elaborately beautiful but puzzling engraving has entered the annals of history as the ‘equine mystery.’
www.calibremagazine.com
| 45
FEATURE
To celebrate its 230th anniversary, GirardPerregaux is paying homage to this its most famous historical timepiece with La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition, a new 43mm x 15.10mm wristwatch that is so gobsmacking beautiful, it almost overshadows the sheer outrageousness of it all. Part of the Eternity Edition series, the new watch was unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week in November last year, and references many of the extraordinary refinements of the legendary 1889 La Esmeralda pocket watch but re-interpreted for a discerning and contemporary audience. Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, remarks, “La Esmeralda is unquestionably our most famous watch and as the current custodian of our Maison, I am always mindful that we should treat such a legend with due reverence. This year, the Manufacture is celebrating its 230th anniversary and we were keen to ensure this milestone did not pass by unnoticed. Already this year we have unveiled several fabulous watches, however, La Esmeralda "A Secret" Eternity Edition is without doubt the most ambitious creation we have released to date. It draws upon our vast knowledge of Haute Horlogerie, in particular tourbillons, embraces several types of artistic crafts and, at the same time, honors the history of La Esmeralda, a watch that continues to exhibit lasting appeal.” And treated with due reverence it certainly is. The new wristwatch is definitely a sight to behold, and is finished to an incredibly high standard. It naturally features the Maison’s signature three gold bridges on the dial. To salute the mysterious engraving on the legendary 1889 La Esmeralda pocket watch, however, the top and bottom bridges have been modified with two hand-engraved galloping horses, which have been re-tasked to form the right and left ends of the barrel bridge and tourbillon bridge. Each bridge takes 40 painstaking hours to finish with each featuring concave beveling, mirror polishing, and include flanks with horizontal ‘traits-tirés’ and rounded off arms. The additional engraving found on the barrel bridge and tourbillon alone takes an extra 50 hours to complete. But the beauty of La Esmeralda "A Secret" Eternity Edition is not merely skin deep, it also incorporates cutting-edge technology. The elaborately formed mainplate, for example, is made using a CNC-machine, and is spec’d to “infinitesimal tolerances” unheard of in the 19th century. The same goes for the mainplate on the caseback side, which is embellished with a new form of finishing called concave beveling. A first in the industry and exclusive to Girard-Perregaux,
46 |
www.calibremagazine.com
“The beauty of La Esmeralda "A Secret" Eternity Edition is not merely skin deep, it also incorporates cutting-edge technology.”
it involves creating a curved recess between the surface and flank that catches the light making the recess transition from one shade to another. The Secret in the name refers to a revelation courtesy of a specially designed hunter-style caseback, the cover of which opens to reveal the 323-part Calibre GP09600-1506 self-winding movement with a mainplate fitted with a motionwork bridge and marking plate. Both are made from pink gold and incorporate ‘traits-tirés’ and hand-polished angles to emulate the shape of the famous Gold Bridges on the dial side. But more significantly, the gold motion-work bridge is literally engraved with the word ‘secret,’ while the inside of the hinged cover is engraved with the same engraving found on the hidden case of the original La Esmeralda pocket watch. Naturally, the engraving can be personalized with any secret message or image of the owner’s choosing. The central area of the dial and mainplate, on the other hand, has been recessed to accommodate the barrel, center wheel and tourbillon cage. A rhodium-plated barrel sits in the upper portion of the dial and features golden engraved text
that recalls the text on the barrel of the original La Esmeralda declaring the model’s patented status. The white gold micro-rotor sits out of sight beneath the barrel to energize the mainspring. The tourbillon cage sits at the lower portion of the dial and features a lyre-shaped cage comprised of 78 components, while weighing a mere 0.3g. This low mass is a major contributor to the piece’s 50-hour power reserve. Further, both the barrel and the dial side mainplate are enlivened with various guilloché patterns created by a traditional rose engine, while the dauphine-type hour and minute hands are formed of pink gold. Not content to stop there, the new pink gold case is also incredibly and completely handengraved, honoring the original work of Fritz Kundert. Indeed, the bezel, caseband, lugs and buckle have all been engraved within an inch of its life with a beautiful leaf motif, while the outer edge of the secret cover has been adorned with a fluted pattern, as has the inside of the cover, which has also been graced with additional engraving. And yet, there is more, specifically with the use of Grand Feu enamel, a métier d’art that takes
much expertise to master to be sure. Indeed, Grand feu enameling is a long and arduous process to execute but when done correctly has the enduring benefit of retaining its luminous color forever. Which is why to make proper use of this art the Maison has gone the extra mile with this “Secret” Eternity Edition. The watchmakers have extended the enameling, which comprises a mixture of silica, minium, potash and soda with additional metal oxidants added to created different color enamels, then fired at around 800°C all the way out to the outer case sides and lugs, as well as to the rear of the watch. Indeed, the back of the blue enameled secret cover features three horses inspired by the original La Esmeralda and is adorned with a sunray guilloché decoration and blue grand feu enamel. A truly spectacular wristwatch that more than does justice to the original pocket watch, La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition is available worldwide through all authorized GirardPerregaux retailers and is being offered in seven different colorways, each produced upon request with a maximum of eighteen pieces per color.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 47
FEATURE
Pax Romana Bulgari opulently fuses Haute Horlogerie with Haute Joaillerie Words by
T
he roughly 200-year-long period of relative peace, order and prosperity in Roman history is known as Pax Romana (Latin for “Roman Peace”). Also known as the Golden Age, the time saw an increase in Roman imperialism, and regional expansion, and is traditionally believed to have commenced with the accession of Caesar Augustus, founder of the Roman principate in 27 BC and concluding with the death of Marcus Aurelius, the last of the “Five Good Emperors,” in 180 AD.
Kit Payumo
During this period of about two centuries, the Roman Empire was at its peak, achieving its greatest territorial extent and reaching its highest population of up to 70 million people. The Roman economy was also at its most bullish, as was its currency and finance. Naturally, a more prosperous economy translated to the higher quality of life for its citizens, which inevitably translated to the golden age of culture and the arts. Indeed, everything from architecture, painting, sculpture and mosaic work were at its highest during this 200-year-long period. In fact, people visiting the city, or city-states throughout the
empire would have seen art in a range of styles and media on a daily basis. Everywhere from public baths, where even a person of humble means could view wall paintings, mosaics, statues, and interior design of high quality; to private residences and spaces, where a wealthy person or patron of the arts would show his appreciation of culture through paintings, sculpture and decorative arts. More importantly, Pax Romana was arguably the first time in Roman history that an artist or artisan was truly acknowledged for his craft. Indeed, the level of skill required to produce quality works of art was finally recognized, and was even considered a divine gift. It was that Golden Age of the Roman Empire that reminds us of the growth and advancements made by Bulgari today. For those who have been living under a rock for the past couple of decades or so, the Roman-once-just-Jeweler-and-nowalso-watchmaker has established itself as the Master of the Estetica della Meccanica (“Aesthetics of mechanics” in English), in other words: a watchmaker (fledgling or otherwise) that has successfully balanced superior savoir faire with the innovative aesthetics of ultra-thin watches to create groundbreaking horological masterpieces. Indeed, this unique fusion of cutting-edge design combined with the technical expertise of Swiss watchmaking is an expertise that the Italian watchmaker has shown a surprisingly outstanding aptitude for, and can be seen in the brand’s mastery of highly complicated, award-winning chiming watches from the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater to the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie. So successful has Bulgari become, in fact, that on the occasion of the LVMH Watch Week, the Roman Jeweler and watchmaker is continuing on the Estetica della Meccanica path it set for itself with two spectacular additions to the brand’s Sinfonia della Meccanica collection (that’s the “Symphony of mechanics,” for you and me, and is Bulgari-speak for timepieces that allow the user to experience “the wonder of the mechanical heart of the watch through the pure and primordial emotion of sound”). The first of which is the opulently one-ofa-kind Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie, and the second is the sophisticated Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon, the latest editions to the brand’s growing list of masterful timepieces that prove the jeweler can stand shoulder to shoulder (and even rival) the best that Swiss watchmaking has to offer.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 49
FEATURE
The latest chiming piece to emerge from Bulgari’s Swiss workshops, the Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie brings the spotlight back to its identity as the preeminent Roman jeweler (more on that later). A unique piece (meaning there’s only one), the Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie is powered by the superlative BVL 703 self-winding movement, the 732 individual components of which are diligently assembled by only one master watchmaker over the span of nine months, and is the same technician who will be tasked to carry out any later adjustments or services. The tourbillonregulated calibre boasts a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a 4-hammer and gong Westminster chime, minute repeater (meaning it can chime on
50 |
www.calibremagazine.com
demand), and a power reserve indicator for the striking mechanism. On the dial, two semi-circles indicate the power reserves for various functions of the watch: the first at 1 o’clock indicates the power reserve of the chiming mechanism (24 hours in Grande Sonnerie mode, and 28 hours in Petite Sonnerie mode), while the semi-circle at 4 indicates the power reserve of the watch. An outer track features minute markers, as well as long green hour markers, while two green Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock complement the openworked green hour and minute hands. Finally, the Westminster chime can be activated and silenced on demand by a button at 8 o’clock marked G (Grand Sonnerie) for the former, and a button at
10 o’clock marked S for silence, for the latter. Indeed, the Grande Sonnerie with four hammers and gongs is Bulgari’s most complex timepiece to date, and makes the Maison one of only a handful of watchmakers capable of producing a mechanism of its kind that can sound the hours, quarters and minutes. But as technically excellent as the Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie is within, its technical prowess practically take a back seat to the glorious opulence happening without. And that’s because the dial, case and bezel of the piece are absolutely blanketed with copious amounts of baguette-cut diamonds and bright green baguette-cut emeralds. That’s right, leveraging their reputation as the consummate jeweler with a penchant for bright, bold colors and profuse amounts of large stones the Roman “Dream Maker” has bejeweled the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie’s massive 44mm x 15.42mm white gold case with the aforementioned gemstones in the brand’s trademark height-of-the-Roman-Empire style. Indeed, this is Bulgari at its very best: elegantly fusing Haute Horlogerie with Haute Joaillerie. More specifically: the Roman Dream Maker builds on the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie as it flourishes the piece with 72 baguette-cut Zambian emeralds (~ 7.28 cts) and 374 baguette-cut diamonds (~ 22.86 cts) totaling over 30 carats, aptly demonstrating that despite its advancements in Haute Horlogerie, the Roman Dream Maker will never stray too far from its indelible Haute Joaillerie roots. Indeed, setting gemstones of an octagonal shape is an exercise that requires consummate skill, which is why all the stones are invisibly set starting with the dial: baguette-cut diamonds of different sizes emanate from the center and grow in size as they reach the periphery; the surface and sides of the angular, sloping lugs of the case are encrusted with diamonds; the octagonal crown is set with diamonds all around it, with a large rose-cut diamond at its tip; and the central pusher at 9 o’clock has a compendium of baguette-cut diamonds within. The crowning glory of this particular Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie, however, are the green Zambian emeralds from where the Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie gets its name. They are set on top of the bezel instead of within leaving the emeralds au naturel, thus, making it easier to admire the top and sides of the stones. And as if all that green still wasn’t enough, the one-of-a-kind Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie is presented on an appropriately colored, vibrantgreen alligator strap to match its green colored details and its emerald-set bezel.
The thoroughly modern and contemporary Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is the second timepiece presented at the LVMH Watch Week, and as its name implies, is the “blue” counterpart of the blacked-out, and DLC titanium-cased Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon that made its debut in January of last year. Its name further suggests the watch also combines two essentially classic complications, a minute repeater and a tourbillon, redefining watchmaking tradition in a resolutely modernist approach. But unlike its green sibling to the left, which put its bedazzled prowess at the forefront, the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is a watchmaker’s timepiece through and through. Built around the highly skeletonized Calibre BVL428 hand-wound movement, the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon gets its name from the specifically designed blued bridges of the movement, and boasts three hammers and three gongs (unlike a traditional repeater with two hammers and two gongs), as well as a 44mm x 15.42mm platinum case surrounded by a blued titanium caseband. Now, as regular Calibre readers know by now, platinum doesn’t play well with chiming watches (pardon the pun), which is where the titanium middle case comes in. It has cavities within to reduce the amount of metal between the interior and the exterior, and three openings on the caseband that correspond to the three gongs, thus allowing the sound to exit the chamber, maximizing the sound and allowing it to spread as much as possible. The overall generous proportions of the case are also designed for maximum sound propagation, which (according to Bulgari) enables “increased torque” for greater sound production. To further reduce the amount of metal between the interior and the exterior the top plate of the movement does double duty as the dial, and has been coated in an ALD treatment, a high-tech carbon based vacuum-deposition coating in an elegant deep blue to match the titanium caseband that has also been blued. This has the added benefit of having the hammers and gongs on the dial side as opposed to the caseback (which we suspect benefits sound transmission as well). Further, the gongs are attached directly to the body of the case for the most efficient sound transmission, while the back has also been hollowed out and redesigned with a titanium grid that protects this resonant area and enables outward transmission of the sound. The gongs have not escaped scrutiny either, and have been hand crafted in several stages. They are bent and formed by hand before being hardened at a temperature of 900°C, then cleaned
before being reheated in a 500° kiln, a process that endows the metal with its crystal-clear resonance. Like some components of the striking mechanism they are drawn out with a file in order to refine the chords of the chime, the sequence of which is activated by the pusher at 9 o’clock, playing the C note for the hours; the E, D, and C notes for the quarters; and the E note for the minutes. The Calibre BVL428 hand-wound movement oscillates at a very traditional 21,600 VpH, which combined with a traditional barrel ensures a power reserve of at least 75 hours for movement. The functioning of the sound mechanism, meanwhile, is ensured by a spring contained in a barrel-shaped container drilled directly in the bridge.
The Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon is a limited edition of only 30 pieces; it features a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, and is water-resistant to three atmospheres. Lastly, it is matched with a blue alligator leather strap to match its elegant blue details, and is secured by a platinum triple-blade folding clasp. Both the Octo Roma Emerald Grande Sonnerie, and the Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon are primary examples of how far Bulgari has advanced in the field of Haute Horlogerie. More significantly, both watches cement the Roman Dream Maker’s already burgeoning credentials as the industry’s premier Manufacture of chiming watches.
FEATURE
52 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Special Edition
Luminor A new timepiece dedicated to the city of Geneva. Words by
Bert Casal
www.calibremagazine.com
| 53
FEATURE
54 |
www.calibremagazine.com
This new Luminor takes design inspiration from the city of Geneva.
P
anerai recently unveiled their new concept store in Geneva. Situated at 21 Rue du Rhône, one of the most prestigious streets in the world, Panerai’s boutique is called “Modularitá Espressiva”. The whole concept of the store is to deliver a unique sensory experience, and to redesign the brand’s relationship with its customers. Interaction with the products is highly encouraged, as evidenced by the glassless lightbox displays around the store. A lounge and a bar is available for patrons to enjoy. These areas can also be utilised as event venues for clients and the press.
The brand Panerai is a product that contains two distinct traditions rooted in two different countries. First is the sophistication of Swiss watchmaking artistry, and the second is the history of design inheritance from Italy. It was a clear-cut decision to have the brand open up a concept boutique in one of the most famous addresses in Geneva. To celebrate its Swiss soul, Panerai is proud to release a new limited edition timepiece dedicated to the Swiss city of Geneva. To coincide with the debut of the boutique, the brand released the Luminor Geneva Boutique Special Edition, limited to only 121 pieces. This wristwatch comes in a matte black 44 mm case composed of titanium with DLC coating. And for the very
first time in Panerai’s history, it comes with a grainy dial. The watch is powered by the P.5000 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement that measures 4.5 mm thick, contains 21 jewels, has two barrels, carries a Glucydur™ balance, beats at 21,600 alternations per hour, and armed with a KIF Parechoc™ anti-shock device. The P.5000 calibre has an eight-day power reserve. The titanium case back is screwed down, allowing for a water resistance of 300 meters. It has an engraving of the iconic Jet d’Eau, Geneva’s most famous fountain. The Luminor Geneva Boutique Special Edition comes with two straps: one in recycled-base PET and another in green rubber.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 55
FEATURE
56 |
www.calibremagazine.com
The Silent Sea Omega launches a new Speedmaster geared for the hardcore purist Words by
I
t was in 1957 when, as part of a trilogy of watches, OMEGA launched the Speedmaster to complement two other professional models, the Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster. But it was the Speedmaster that would ultimately leave its mark, going down in history as a wristwatch that had gone where no other wristwatch had gone before. And that probably
Kit Payumo
wouldn’t have happened if it weren’t for a certain lunar mission that brought two Speedmasters to the surface of our closest celestial neighbor. But walk on the moon with two OMEGA Speedmasters, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin did, and the rest, as they say, is history. Indeed, to say that this OMEGA chronograph with a deep racing heritage found a new vocation thanks to the Space Race in the 1950s and 60s is an understatement, to be sure. On the outset, the
www.calibremagazine.com
| 57
FEATURE
Speedmaster was already a solid chronograph, and a damn fine looking one at that. It was perfectly readable and easy to use, and it was also the first in the world to feature a tachymeter scale, not on the dial, but on the bezel. This feature was ideal for timing average speeds on the track, and complemented the watch’s sturdy, highly precise and water-resistant design. And then Apollo 11 happened, and the Speedmaster will forever be known as the Moonwatch. It was this first Speedmaster model, known as the CK2915-1, that has preoccupied the dreams and fantasies of OMEGA Speedmaster purists and enthusiasts for over half a century. Which is why for its first major release of 2022, OMEGA is introducing the new Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold, the latest variant in a long line of Speedmaster Moonwatch models that takes direct inspiration from the first 1957 model.
58 |
www.calibremagazine.com
“The latest variant in a long line of Speedmaster Moonwatch models that takes direct inspiration from the first 1957 model.”
To be fair, this isn’t the first time the Speedmaster has been revamped and reissued. Nowadays, Omega makes a lot of Speedmasters at an increasingly wide range of prices. Around this time last year, in fact, we already got an updated Moonwatch. And at the end of 2021, Omega sprung two variants of the surprising vintage-meets-modern Speedmaster Chronoscope. And what about all the Dark Side of the Moon models? Indeed, there is a Speedmaster for everyone, because at this point they come in all manner of sizes and materials. So what makes this newest one so special? First off, 2022 marks the 65th anniversary of the OMEGA Speedmaster so that alone is significant. Second, this new watch is a special non-limited model that will be offered exclusively from OMEGA boutiques, which, as we’ve mentioned before, takes direct inspiration from the enduring heritage (not to mention good looks) of the original Speedmaster chronograph CK2915-1. And we mean DIRECT, because the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold comes in at a very traditional 38.5mm in diameter with a case and bracelet made of OMEGA’s own proprietary Canopus gold, the brand’s own version of white gold. An alloy of 18K white gold, platinum, rhodium and palladium, Canopus gold is distinguished by its high brilliance, whiteness and longevity. Naturally, the famous tachymeter scale bezel makes its requisite appearance, but here distinguishing itself not only by also being made of Canopus gold, but also with a treatment of black Grand Feu enamel to fill in the scale. And that’s not all, the Speedmaster-faithful also gets a small collector-worthy detail: the bezel features the famous dot over ninety (DON) and a dot diagonal to seventy. Yes, that can be a “huh?” moment for the uninitiated. This refers to the dot that marks the tachymeter scale numerals that were the hallmark of pre-1970 Speedmaster bezels. Specifically the number 90, with the dot appearing at the above right and “over” the “0”, and the number 70, with its corresponding dot that appears at the lower right of the “0”; a small almost inconsequential detail to be sure, but one that the Speedmasterfaithful notice.
But the element that most differentiates this version from the historic model (or any other model in the current Speedmaster collection, for that matter) has got to be the dial. That’s right, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold has been endowed with a dial made of gorgeous deep black onyx, resulting in a luxurious and glossy dial with pitch-black contrast. Painstakingly cut by a special ultrasonic CNC machine and formed over a black DLC brass plate, the main dial, subdials, and external minute ring are made of black onyx making everything look deeper than deep, and blacker than black. An applied vintage OMEGA logo makes an appearance, as does special typography featuring an oval “O” for the word OMEGA, a detail unique to the first CK2915 models. Further, the hour and minute hands are forged in 18K white gold, while the applied hour markers are made from PVD-treated Canopus gold. But perhaps the most distinctive detail that excites vintage collectors the most is the famous movement powering the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold: it’s the original movement used inside the Speedmaster in 1957. That’s right, the Calibre 321 is a reproduction of the historic Lemania-based movement that equipped early Speedmaster models, and is the same calibre that powered the Speedmasters on the Apollo missions, including all of history’s six moon landings. In 2019, OMEGA announced that they had reverse-engineered and recreated the Calibre 321. This resulted in a movement with not only the exact same design and finish, but which is also mechanically identical, with only minor contemporary concessions. This means, the classic architecture with column wheel and horizontal clutch has been retained, and oscillation is still at a stately 18,000 vibrations/ hour. Power reserve, however, has been increased to 55 hours. Turn the watch over and another tribute to the collection’s anniversary is revealed: an engraving of the OMEGA Seahorse – a brand icon used on the Speedmaster since 1957 - has been added to the inside of the sapphire crystal glass. Its eye has been made from a sparkling blue sapphire, a precious jewel that traditionally marks a 65-year celebration. Finally, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is fitted with a historically accurate 19mm
brushed and polished flat link bracelet, this time made in Canopus gold, and which has been updated with a folding clasp with security pushbuttons and a comfort release adjustment system. This latest Speedmaster is presented in a special wooden box crafted with a Rosewood-like pattern in honor of the collection’s 65th anniversary, the shape and design of which is inspired by the original OMEGA Speedmaster boxes from 1957. And then there’s the price. Here at Calibre, we don’t like to get distracted with things like monetary value, although we believe we can make an exception in this case: price upon asking is north of $80K. That’s right, an almost staggering amount for a timepiece that for all intents and
purposes looks and functions (literally) identically to the original. But isn’t that the point? Correct us if we’re wrong but at 65, the Speedmaster has arguably never looked this good. And just like limited edition Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Aston Martins, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is targeted SPECIFICALLY at the wellheeled Speedmaster collector obsessed with everything Moonwatch. This collector has pretty much seen and experienced everything that the Speedmaster world has to offer, and is looking for a level of authenticity that OMEGA hasn’t yet provided, at least until now. And for people like that, well, money is usually no object.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 59
FEATURE
Skyline Zenith DEFIES expectations with a new kind of 5Hz sports watch Words by
Z
enith launched the Calibre 3019 PHC, which it christened “El Primero” in 1969. It was the only integrated chronograph calibre with automatic winding that stood out for being the world’s only chronograph with a heart beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz (compared to the 21,600 VpH, which was typical at the time). This endowed the chronograph calibre with an accuracy that is within the nearest tenth of a second. Even more astonishing is the fact that the movement is still being used today, albeit in a thoroughly modified form. Indeed, in its over 50 year-history, the El Primero has evolved in a number of directions. Incorporating improvements and optimizations to arrive at what we have today: the El Primero 3600 automatic movement (for 36,000 vibrations per hour), which debuted on the original El Primero’s 50th anniversary in 2019. Designed to take full advantage of its 5Hz frequency, the El Primero 3600 is the newest and most updated version of the movement with the ability to measure time down to 1/10th of a second, and was last seen in
60 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Kit Payumo
2021’s thoroughly upgraded Chronomaster Sport. This year, Zenith has taken that proof of concept to give us the new El Primero 3620, a new movement built around the architecture of the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second chronograph. This self-winding Manufacture movement is endowed with a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting and drives the 1/10th of a second hand directly from the escapement, which beats at 5Hz (36,000 vibrations/hour), thus making it a “natural” fraction-of-a-second indication. Incredibly, the movement architecture combined with the bi-directional automatic winding mechanism with star motif rotor is so efficient that the movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, despite that incredibly high beat rate. Best of all, the new El Primero 3620 makes its 2022 debut in the new Defy Skyline, Zenith’s newest flagship sports watch, which, in case you still haven’t realized is NOT a chronograph. According to Zenith CEO Julien Tornare, the Defy collection is, “The locomotive that’s pulling the brand forward.” Indeed, the collection has been the bedrock from where Zenith has launched many of
www.calibremagazine.com
| 61
FEATURE
their horological achievements since the collection was officially re-launched back in 2017. And the new Defy Skyline is another milestone in what will surely be a long, storied line of achievements. Driven by a variation of the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second chronograph the three-hand DEFY Skyline brings something new to the table that’s as much a demonstration of technical prowess as it is a visually captivating animation rarely ever seen on a wristwatch. This comes in the form of the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, which is not “merely” a seconds subdial, but a constantly running 1/10th of a second counter that makes steady jumps in fixed increments, completing one revolution every 10 seconds…EXACTLY like the central chronograph seconds hand on the Chronomaster Sport. This ballet of movement reminds the wearer of “the fleeting nature of time,” as well as the precision of the 5Hz movement within. But the launch of the Defy Skyline isn’t just about the introduction of a new movement, it also launches a new case design, as well as re-introduces an “old” concept that the original Defy timepieces started decades ago. Beginning way back in 1902, the original “DEFI” (“challenge” in English) line of rugged
62 |
www.calibremagazine.com
“The small seconds counter at 9 o’clock is not “merely” a seconds subdial but a constantly running 1/10th of a second counter that (completes) one revolution every 10 seconds…” and precise pocket-watches later inspired Zenith to reinterpret the same audacious spirit in a line of rugged but fashionable wristwatches in 1969 named DEFY. That’s right, launched a full three years before Audemars Piguet’s redefining (pardon the pun) sports watch (interesting how the 1970s Defy looks so much like the Royal Oak), the original Defy A3642 exuded an affirmed and resolutely modern aesthetic that complemented its hardy construction and reliable
performance, earning it the nickname of coffrefort, French for vault of safe. More importantly, the Defy A3642 was geared specifically to be a new type of sports watch. Indeed, it had enhanced water resistance up to 300 meters, and incorporated a shock absorbing suspension system around the movement that provided an unprecedented degree of impact resistance for the time. This is the timepiece that the new Defy Skyline takes direct inspiration from but does so in a way that updates it to contemporary standards. Coming off the recently launched limited edition Zenith Defy Revival A3642, the new Defy Skyline retains the same DNA of robustness and durability as the original A3642, while bringing an edgier and more architectural aesthetic to the table. Premier of which is a new 41mm stainless steel case (up from the original’s 37mm), and it is a marvel to behold. Not only does it embody the angular aesthetic of the Defy series with its sharply defined edges, but the case is topped by an unusually faceted bezel similar to those from early DEFY models. Similar but not a replica: because the bezel was redesigned with twelve sides (down from the original fourteen) to echo the position of the hour
markers. And what a bezel it is, just look at it! We don’t think there’s anything else like it! A single piece that incorporates numerous shapes and finishes, the bezel starts out as a brushed, circular frame for the dial but morphs into 12 crisply polished angles that connects the bezel to the case. Beautiful! Its hooded lugs are another classic feature of the Defy collection that works seamlessly with today’s popular integrated bracelet style. Which, by the way, is a two-link affair that takes the structural and angular aesthetic of the collection and runs with it. It seamlessly follows the contours of the multi-faceted case with each bracelet link marked by a satin-brushed finish. Like the bezel, however, each link is endowed with bevels that are polished completing the entire architectural ensemble. Speaking of metallic, the dial didn’t escape scrutiny either and is a brand new metallic job that complements the case and bracelet. This
newly designed star-studded dial with a sunburst finish is embellished with a perfectly aligned pattern consisting of engraved four-pointed stars except at 3 o’clock, which is where the colormatched date window resides, and small seconds at 9 o’clock, which is embellished with azurage decoration. Best of all, those stars are a new interpretation of the brand’s original star logo from the brand’s history. One of the more memorable “star” designs of Zenith, the new 4-pointed stars engraved in repeating rows on the dial is in fact a modern reimagining of the Zenith “double Z” logo of the 1960s, a design we personally think is very cool. Indeed, the logo literally takes two “Zs” from the original Zenith name and logo and merges them to form a unique 4-pointed star, and we honestly feel the brand should find a way to incorporate this original logo in future products. Because not only does it still work today, but it also happens to be a central element in the brand’s story, which can be traced back to the very beginning when the night sky was a major source of inspiration for brand founder GeorgesFavre Jacot, who fulfilled his dream of creating the most precise watch of the time and decided to name his manufacture after the highest point in
the night sky. And speaking of stars, the screwdown crown also features a robust and hefty new five-pointed star design in relief. It too goes the multiple finishes route with both brushed and polished surfaces. “We are so lucky to have one the best symbols as a logo,” said Julien Tornare. “A star is positive. It is everywhere, on flags, in Hollywood. A star is a great symbol.” The El Primero 3620 movement is finished in tones of grey and silver with elements in blued metal that is in keeping with the purely contemporary palette of the Defy Skyline. The watch itself is available with dials colored in silver, blue, and black, and can also be had with a second rubber strap with a starry sky pattern colored in green for the silver dial, blue for the blue dial, and black for the black dial. Finally, the Defy Skyline is equipped with the Defy case’s ingenious quick strap change mechanism consisting of secure buttons on the back.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 63
FEATURE
Light Up The Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up leads the way Words by
Katherine Cunanan
C
onnected watches are becoming more of a necessity these days. The need to stay connected and on point is important and we are continually finding ways to do this with ease and comfort. And the Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up is the most luxurious way to do this. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up is the third generation of connected watches from the Maison and it offers even more customization and personalization. The user experience is easy to learn, with the OS (operating system) developed specifically for this watch. Louis Vuitton has successfully brought art and technology together, with a good dose of luxury.
64 |
www.calibremagazine.com
The LV Tambour Horizon Light Up is new but aligns with the Maison’s design codes. There is exquisite hand-finishing and the crystal clear screen pours over the edge, akin to an infinity pool but for your watch. The added real estate, thanks to the case sides, is put to good use too. There are two dozen LED lights that, yes, Light Up when the watch is activated or shows a notification.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 65
FEATURE
Look to the Horizon Or ‘Horizons’ in this case, since there are three Tambour Horizon Light Up models to choose from. Each watch is 44mm in diameter and 13.2mm in thickness. The Tambour Horizon Light Up Polished Steel has a polished steel case and lugs. The crown is polished stainless steel with a black lacquered LV logo, while the pushers are in stainless steel. The case back is polished stainless steel with black polished ceramic engraved with the Monogram pattern. The Tambour Horizon Light Up Matte Black has a sandblasted stainless steel case with black PVD coating and contrasting crown and lugs in sandblasted titanium; the crown also has the a black lacquered LV logo. The case back here is in sandblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating and black polished ceramic engraved with the Monogram pattern. The Tambour Horizon Light Up Matte Brown is the most classic LV-looking of them all, thanks to the nod to the historic aesthetic of Louis Vuitton. The case, crown, and lugs are sandblasted stainless steel with brown PVD coating, though the crown has the addition of the black lacquered LV logo. The case back is also sandblasted stainless steel with brown PVD coating, with black polished ceramic engraved with the Monogram pattern. Bespoke creations are in the Louis Vuitton DNA, dating back to the founding in 1854. The Maison crafted travel trunks specifically to the client’s desires. This expectation of customization is reflected in the Tambour Light up, with so many options available. The watch face now has an always-on function, and eight built-in dials to choose from. A favorite is likely going to be the striped animation in the classic brown LV colors. Luxury deserves playfulness too, and the dial configuration with Vivienne, the LV mascot, is lively and adorable. A rainbow of colors is available in the animation options, and you could even add own initials with options of typeface and color, just to spice things up a bit. To build on the experience, LV will be adding watch face designs throughout the year to focus on collaborations, seasons, fashion shows, and certain holidays. A dragon perhaps for the Lunar New Year? Check. A sweet heart display for Valentine’s? Check. A tree and maybe a snowman for Christmas? Check.
66 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Swipe This Way Aside from the new and very engaging interface is an all-new LV custom designed operating system. The point here is to give the wearer a very easy and intuitive way to use the watch. Just like with some apps, a simple swipe brings you a different screen. Your day can start with a swipe right that brings you, well, ‘My Day.’ Your agenda, the weather, step count, heart rate, and air quality will be easily visible to you. A swipe down shows you the notifications, while a swipe up shows the control panel with functions, timers, alarms, and so on. A swipe left takes you to ‘My Travel’ which
has boarding passes, travel plans, and 30 of the LV City Guides. Be sure your LV Horizon 55 is packed and ready to go too. Though it might not exactly be a collaboration project, the LV Tambour Horizon Light Up’s operating system has been accredited as “MFI,” meaning ‘made for iPhone.’ In case you have an Android, fret not, the watch is compatible with that too. The internal hardware has the Snapdragon Wear 41000 processor and promises quick action when you need it. For the health and fitness focused wearers, the Tambour Horizon now has a heart-rate monitor, so there is no need for an additional gadget when you work out. And you can swim with the Tambour Horizon too, since the watch is water resistant to 30 meters. You can decide how you want to use your watches all-day battery too, by specifying which display level you want. Each display level corresponds to a different level of animation and battery usage. Choose Blossom for fullon animation, or Explorer for a slightly lower animation level; the Submarine gives a more quiet experience, while the Saver allows for minimal battery usage. Another new aspect to the Tambour Horizon is the push buttons on either side of the crown, which increase the functionality of the watch. A simple rotation of the crown changes the watch dial; the top pusher controls the watch face shuffle mode and the configuration settings while the bottom pusher is another spot of personalization — you can set a shortcut activation to your preferred app. The Louis Vuitton Connect app provides connection for all their devices, including an LV Horizon Light Up Speaker. You can adjust settings for your watch through the app on your smartphone. Isn’t in beautiful when all these things come together? The customization is not limited to the interface and settings though. The quick-change system for the strap means you can switch out one colorful strap for another with ease. Are there enough strap colors for all the things a wearer would want? Knowing LV, probably so. With the ease of use and amazing level of customization, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon Light Up will brighten your wrist and your day.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 67
FEATURE
THE BIG PILOT’S WATCH 43 IWC Schaffhausen launches two new models of the Spitfire Edition.
Words by
Bert Casal
68 |
www.calibremagazine.com
www.calibremagazine.com
| 69
FEATURE
T
his Swiss luxury brand has been manufacturing watches for the different branches of the British military for decades. In 1948, for example, they produced the Mark 11, a navigation watch designed for the British Royal Air Force. They also supplied watches to the British Army and to the Royal Navy. All these watches were armed with high-precision movements, extreme ruggedness, functional designs, and legible dials. The Supermarine Spitfire is a British-designed aircraft, designed to be a short-range, high performance aircraft. First produced in 1928, the plane went through numerous design updates such as the innovative sunken rivets that aid the craft to attain faster speeds. But its most iconic, and identifiable, feature is its elliptical wing design. Another British-made aircraft was the Hawker Hurricane, which shouldered most of the fighting against the Germans during the Battle of Britain. Though there were less Spitfires produced during that time, they were considered to be the main fighter plane of the Royal Air Force. Spitfires had a higher win-to-loss ratio and were assigned to deal with the German’s Messerschmitt BF-109Es. After the Battle of Britain, the Spitfire continued its service until the 1950s as a fighter-bomber, for photo reconnaissance, as well as a trainer. To continue to pay homage to this legendary aircraft, IWC presents two new models to add to its collection: the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, one in titanium, and the other in bronze. Reference IW329701 features a case, case back, and crown made from lightweight and robust grade 5 titanium. The dark grey matte color results from an elaborate surface treatment in which the components are first polished and then sandblasted. The design of the black dial was inspired by historical observation watches. Only the minutes and seconds are printed in white on the outer ring. The hours appear smaller and in a more discreet grey print on the inner ring. Traditionally, this layout made it easier for pilots
and navigators to read the minutes and seconds at just a glance. They needed this information to perform tasks like celestial navigation during visual flights. The distinctive field watch design is complemented with a brown calfskin leather strap with contrast stitching. Reference IW329702 features a bronze case and crown as well as a titanium case back. Alongside copper, the bronze used by IWC also contains aluminium and iron. This specific composition makes the alloy about 50% harder than standard bronze. Additional characteristics include the material’s exceptional biocompatibility and its ability to develop a unique patina over time. The warm color of the bronze harmonises with the military green dial and the gold-plated hands. Both the hands and hour markers have been coated with a luminescent material to facilitate readability at night. The timepiece is fitted with a green buffalo leather strap with a unique texture. These two new Spitfire models carry the IWC-manufactured 82100 calibre movement. This high-end automatic movement has been engineered with a focus on maximum precision and reliability. It features the efficient winding system developed by IWC’s former technical director Albert Pellaton during the 1950s, which uses the slightest movements of the rotor in either direction to wind the mainspring. Other components, like the automatic wheel or the pawls, are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. When fully wound, the mainspring holds a power reserve of 60 hours. They also feature the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system which allows the wearer to quickly and easily change the strap at the touch of a button, without the use of any tool. “What sets these new Spitfire models apart is their military aesthetic with closed gas backs, inspired by the rugged field watches from back when the iconic Spitfire graced the skies,” explains Christian Knoop, Creative Director of IWC Schaffhausen.
IWC launches two new Pilot's watches inspired by the functional design of historic "military-spec" watches.
70 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Reference IW329701
Reference IW329702
www.calibremagazine.com
| 71
FEATURE
Grey Matters
Frederique Constant unleashes a blue-grey dial in its flagship model. Words by
72 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Bert Casal
www.calibremagazine.com
| 73
FEATURE
T
he Highlife line of watches is one of Frederique Constant’s proudest collections. It was originally launched in 1999 bearing a new integrated bracelet. Its craftsmanship and design would go on to be one of its most distinctive models in the brand’s history. Two years ago, in the year 2020, Frederique Constant released new generations of Highlife watches that featured new integrated case designs, dramatically etched dials, and the brand’s first ever COSC certified chronometer. Since its first launch, the Highlife collection has embodied the values that contributed to the company’s success with its watchmaking design, high degree of finishing, and a particular care for a fair price that is easily accessible to its customers. This year, Frederique Constant is proud to present its newest addition to the Highlife family:
the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. For the first time in the collection’s history, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is adorned with a deep blue-grey dial, a symbol of chromatic harmony inspired by the seas, the skies, and space. This new dial guarantees perfect legibility, thanks to the contrast of the white typography and the mirror-polished and luminescent hour markers and hands. The day can be read at 9 o’clock, the months and leap years at 12, and the date at 3. The 6 o’clock position displays a moon phase complication. And of course, the signature guilloche motif of the Earth is found at the centre of the dial. The brushed and polished stainless steel case, measuring 41 mm, is designed with an integral three-link bracelet with alternating polished and satin finished surfaces. Bearing no lugs, it falls smoothly and naturally on the wrist. A special
feature of the Highlife collection is its bracelet interchangeability. The bracelet can be alternated with a navy blue textured and stitched rubber strap — delivered with the watch — without the need of any tool. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is powered by the FC-775, an in-house automatic calibre with perlage and circular Côtes de Genève decorations, a 38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, and a frequency of 28,800 alt/h. This movement may be viewed through its transparent case back. The Highlife makes an ideal accessory for any occasion and will accompany you in your everyday life — in style. Whether you have a busy day at work, eating out with friends, or spending some quality time with your loved ones, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture brings you added sophistication with a modern style that is both classy and classic.
“For the first time in the collection's history, the Highlife is presented with a deep blue-grey dial, inspired by the seas, skies, and space.”
74 |
www.calibremagazine.com
www.calibremagazine.com
| 75
DARK Matter
FEATURE
Urwerk’s “lonely satellite” takes a step into the Dark Side.
Words by
Kit Payumo
www.calibremagazine.com
| 77
FEATURE
B
ack in 2019, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei dusted off their tried and tested orbital hour satellite system for another avant-garde masterpiece: the Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime, the inspiration of which was an antique pendulum clock made by Gustave Sandoz, one of France’s “Horologers de la Marine” from of 1727 to 1891. Created for the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago, Illinois, one of Gustave Sandoz’ more famous creations was an unusually tall pendulum clock, which Sandoz created to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ discovery of America; hinting at the true purpose of a clock that did not display the time. Endowed with a typical regulator layout, the main dial of Sandoz’ clock, which would normally display the central seconds, was marked to 100. The top subdial, which would normally display the hours or minutes, was marked to 10. While the bottom, and much larger subdial, which would normally display the minutes or hours, was marked to 40. So what did it measure if not the time? Apparently, it measured the distance traveled by
78 |
www.calibremagazine.com
a person standing on the equator as the earth rotated on its axis every 24 hours. The extralong pendulum (thus the unusual height) beats every 2.16 seconds, making every oscillation one kilometer. The main dial has a scale of 10,000 kilometers, marked in units of 100 kilometers, so each tick (half oscillation) indicates 500 meters. The top subdial is marked to 10 in increments of one kilometer. And the bottom subdial is divided in increments of 1,000 for a total of 40,000 kilometers, which is approximately the circumference of the earth at the equator. In 1996, this pendulum clock found its way into the hands of Geri Baumgartner, an internationally renowned but retired clock maker/ restorer who is responsible for the restoration of some of the world’s most significant timepieces
in the last century. Geri also happens to be the father of Felix Baumgartner, co-founder and master watchmaker of the German avant-garde watchmaker Urwerk, who gave Felix Sadoz’ pendulum clock as a gift. Which is why the Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime, not only displays the time using Urwerk’s three-prong orbital hour satellite system, but uses the other two previously “dormant” satellites to simultaneously display the speed of the rotation of the Earth at the equator, as well as to display the speed of the Earth’s revolution around the sun. Taking off from Gustave Sandoz’ own towering achievement (pun intended), the UR-100 uses the Earth’s orbital speed around the sun to display the distance travelled from two different
perspectives in the span of 20 minutes. So, instead of disappearing after 60 minutes like the usual orbital hour satellite system, the red-arrowtipped minute pointers in the UR-100 “reappear” from two cut out registers at the top half of the dial in addition to the time display at the bottom half of the dial. This means, for the first time, all three satellite arms are working at the same time. The register 10 o’clock indicates how far a person travels in 20 minutes if he were standing still anywhere on the equator for 20 minutes (555.55 km as indicated at the end of the register). It takes the circumference of the Earth at the equator (40,070 kilometers) and divides it by the length of a day (24 hours) to get an average speed of 1,670 kmh. The register at 2 o’clock, on the other hand, indicates how far the Earth has travelled in its orbit around the sun, which translates to some 35,740 km every 20 minutes. Admittedly, Baumgartner and Frei took quite a few liberties in interpreting the physicist’s ideas, and while it’s true that the additional spacetime indications have no practical use for anyone in everyday life, there is still no denying the towering achievement that is the UR-100 SpaceTime. This year, the titanium and steel of the UR100 SpaceTime makes way for another universal element: carbon, specifically High Resistance CTP Carbon, an extremely resilient material composed of 52 layers of carbon compressed in a resin of epoxy polymer. This ultra light material allows Urwerk’s latest spacetime bending timepiece, the new UR-100V C52, to tip the scales at a featherweight 11 grams despite having a titanium caseback. And it’s the unusual “folding” of the aforementioned carbon layers that gives this newest spacetime-bending timepiece its distinct character. "The curves enhancing the bezel of the UR-100V C52, tracing their way from the crown to the sides of the watch passing through the lugs, are a classic reference,” says Martin Frei, co-founder and chief designer of Urwerk. “We find this same motif on the ancient Greek columns. Striations drawn and dug in the stone almost 2500 years ago to channel rainwater and control its flow along these ageless pillars. This motif has become the symbol of classicism. I often play with this reference.” As before, this is all made possible by the wholly self-winding, and entirely unique Caliber UR12.01, which beats at 28,800 (or 4Hz), and boasts a power reserve of 48 hours. But what makes the movement interesting is the addition
“Carbon is a material dating back to the dawn of time. It is a raw material in the original sense of the term, a perfect UR-material,” — Felix Baumgartner
of a Windfäng (Swiss-German for “air trap”), a flat turbine that regulates the automatic winding rotor. It minimizes shocks to the rotor bearing and reduces over-winding, as well as overall wear and tear. The rotor, which is partially supported on its periphery by the flat turbine, also has a larger diameter, resulting in a lower mass and therefore less wear. With dimensions measuring 41mm (width), 49.7mm (length), and 14mm (thickness), the case of the new UR-100V C52 is a result of 52 layers of carbon precision-cut to form the unusual “striations” of the circular case, the design of which “continues” all around the wrist thanks to the original rubber strap specifically designed for
this watch, and made of textured flexible rubber for a comfortable fit. “Carbon is a material dating back to the dawn of time. It is a raw material in the original sense of the term, a perfect UR-material,” explains Felix Baumgartner, co-founder and master watchmaker of Urwerk. “Carbon was also revered by the Sumerians of Mesopotamia, the pioneers of defining time as we still know it today, and a strong reference at URWERK. Enclosing and protecting the cuttingedge technology used in our models in an ageless case is a contrast that I seek out and particularly appreciate. Our carbon has all the qualities: it is resistant, light, resilient, and revisits URWERK black by offering nuances like nothing else.”
www.calibremagazine.com
| 79
Spinning, Spinning
FEATURE
Subtle respect for a classic film Words by
Katherine Cunanan
80 |
www.calibremagazine.com
F
ilm as an art form is technical and beautiful at the same time. Telling a story, whether real or imagined, is a way to transport someone to a different time, a different life. Films can show history or myth, the past or the present, or even the future. Films tell stories to captivate you and pull you into that world. Animation is every bit an artistic skill and talent too. And animation offers a bit of freedom that is different from having real actors and actresses on screen. Animation is creativity and expression through the skill of the animators. Just as an actor brings a character to life on stage or on screen, so too does an animator. The animator gets to know the character he is creating, all the faults and foibles, all the triumphs and successes. He, or she, can add the quirks that make a hero more loveable, or a make villain easier to despise. They bring imagined characters to life and allow you to fall into their story.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 81
FEATURE
"With this vibrant redand-gold staff that he spins and swirls in battle, Sun Wukong defeats his enemies."
82 |
www.calibremagazine.com
One such animated feature film is The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven, which was released by the Shanghai Animation Film Studio, or SAFS, in 1961. SAFS is one of the oldest Chinese animation studios, and was founded in 1946. SAFS successfully blended Western animation with Chinese culture and artistry. Their animated films featured classic Chinese artistry such as shadow puppetry, ink-wash, and paper-cut animation. This all came to a head during the Second Golden Era of Chinese film industry. China has an extremely rich history and a veritable treasure trove of stories, and the Monkey King, or Sun Wukong, is no exception. Sun Wukong is a legendary mythical figure whose story captivated all those who heard it. The story was initially released as a novel, Journey to the West, in the 16th century. For creating the animation film, SAFS tapped director Wan Laiming. Wan Laiming and his brothers are considered the pioneers of animation within the Chinese film industry. The appeal of the Monkey King story was increased by Wan Laiming’s treatment and creativity that brought the mythical king to life on the silver screen. Legend has it that Sun Wukong was a monkey born from stone, and as the story progresses, he finds a red pillar with golden tips. Sun Wukong develops supernatural powers, and the pillar shrinks to the easier-to-use size of a staff. With this vibrant red-and-gold staff that he spins and swirls in battle, Sun Wukong defeats his enemies. Oris has partnered with the Shanghai Animation Film Studio to celebrate the 60th anniversary of this beloved film in a limited edition watch. The Oris Sun Wukong Limited Edition uses the Aquis Date watch as a starting point, and captures the lively energy of that monkey king and his staff without putting a monkey on the dial. It is a measured and subdued interpretation of the Monkey King story. The 41.5mm stainless steel case is classic and partners well with the gorgeous navy blue dial. The hour markers and hands have SuperLumiNova® for added visibility. The treasured red-and-gold staff is used as the seconds hand, and it is brilliant against the navy blue dial. But the staff interpretation doesn’t stop there. If you look closely at the dial, you’ll see that the dial has flashes of light and medium blue in a range of sizes that depict the flashing staff in the midst of battle. You can almost hear the swish and feel the brush of air as the staff spins. As this is an Aquis diver’s watch, the expected elements are here too. The ceramic bezel is uni-
directional when rotated, and continues the blue color from the dial. The screw-down crown, to help keep the movement safe from water, is here, as are the crown protectors. The watch is waterresistant to 30 bar, or 300 meters. The stainless steel bracelet is a three-row link style with a folding buckle. Powering this Oris Sun Wukong Limited Edition is the Oris 733 movement, an automatic winding movement also implemented in other models. The movement has a 28,800vph frequency and a 38-hour power reserve. The watch has the hours, minutes, and seconds hands, and a date window at the 6 o’clock. Perhaps if there is another collaboration here, the new watch
will feature the Monkey King on the dial, and have a new in-house manufacture movement in his honor too. Lest you think the red-and-gold staff is the only identifying mark of this limited edition Oris watch, there is a surprise that awaits on the case back. The Monkey King is engraved on the case back, with the fast-spinning staff behind him. As this watch is a limited edition of 2,000 pieces, the edition number is also engraved on the case back. The Oris Sun Wukong Limited Edition watch comes in a special presentation box and is limited to 2000 pieces. The watch is a subtle tribute to the fascinating world of Chinese animation in general and the Monkey King in particular.
"... red-andgold staff is brilliant against the gorgeous navy blue dial..."
www.calibremagazine.com
| 83
FEATURE
84 |
www.calibremagazine.com
TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE SUN
H. Moser & Cie is on a quest for ultimate elegance with The Armoury
Words by
Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. and Mark Cho, Co-Founder of The Armoury
“O
Kit Payumo
ur vision is to become a truly international men’s haberdasher and the byword for service, craftsmanship and soul in men’s clothing and accessories,” — The Armoury For the sartorially challenged among us, The Armoury is a menswear brand that believes in design, craftsmanship and personal style. The brainchild of Mark Cho and Alan See, The Armoury was founded in Hong Kong in 2010 and was borne out of a response to today’s trend of insubstantial, lifeless products that are too often masked by expensive advertising. Presently operating another two branches in New York aside from Hong Kong, The Armoury embodies Mark and Alan’s shared passion for classic styling, and interest in bringing classic tailoring to the modern man.
Born and raised in the UK, Mark Cho has lived and worked in the US, UK and Asia. Having fallen in love with suiting at 16, he has been developing his knowledge of gentleman’s clothing ever since. Alan See, on the other hand, has worked closely with the apparel industry throughout his career, and has come to understand more about the origins and process in which most garments are produced today. “We are passionate about what we sell,” says Cho, who together with See sources special items the world over to create their own distinctive products with the help of exceptional craftsmen and factories. The Armoury’s curated selection of products, in fact, includes an extensive range of custom and bespoke offerings. The stores in Hong Kong and New York regularly host outstanding tailors, shoemakers and other crafts people for customers who not only want the best, but who also want something unique. In fact, some of their most outstanding products have come from the brand’s collaborations with some of the best artisans in the world. These exclusive collaborations have produced products that carry their own aesthetic and functional design, which would not have been possible were it not for the deep and cherished relationships nurtured by Cho and See with artisans they trust. Which is where H. Moser & Cie. comes in.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 85
“The discreetly sized 38mm Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse looks for all intents and purposes like a representation of a total eclipse”
Indeed, The Armoury’s association with H. Moser & Cie., an exclusive and prestigious watchmaker that exudes elegance to an insider clientele, is nothing short of natural. And it all started when Mark met with Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., in New York in 2019. They quickly found a shared passion for clothing and watches, and the idea of collaboration began to emerge. Cho and See were most intrigued by the incredibly rich history of H. Moser & Cie., spanning almost 200 years, as well as its watchmaking expertise, and its desire to take risks with new ideas. The team at H. Moser & Cie., on the other hand, were drawn to The Armoury's roots in classic design, its promotion of craftsmanship, and its penchant for creating special, understated pieces, that sit on the cusp between classic and contemporary. “When Edouard and I first started talking about the idea of making a watch together, my main requirement was that it was small,” explained Mark
86 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Cho. “I like watches that are discreet but reveal a deeper complexity if you pay them some attention. To me, H. Moser & Cie.'s fumé dial and Vantablack dial are iconic and I wanted to work with one of them as a starting point for the design. Quickly, I started to favor the Vantablack and I had the idea to add markings to the dial somehow. My design partner: Elliot Hammer, suggested that we imagine the design with the theme of a total solar eclipse.” Thus, the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse was born, which indeed, looks like an astonishing representation of a total solar eclipse when the sun is completely hidden behind the moon. For those who have never experienced the sheer darkness of Vantablack, let’s just say there is black and there is BLACK, Vantablack is undoubtedly the latter. Consisting of rows and rows of carbon nanostructures, Vantablack is one the darkest synthetic materials ever made by man. Developed in 2012 by the UK-based Surrey NanoSystems Limited, Vantablack absorbs 99.965% of light, and
is composed of a “forest” of vertical nanotubes that are 10,000 times finer than a human hair. These nanotubes are “grown” on a substrate using a specialized chemical vapor deposition process. When struck by light, Vantablack does not bounce it off, instead the light becomes trapped and is continually deflected amongst the tubes, eventually becoming absorbed and dissipated as heat. Vantablack has been used in astrophysics for telescopes; by the military for thermal camouflage, and stealth equipment; and in civil engineering for solar panels. Even the German automobile manufacturer BMW used Vantablack to give their BMW X6 concept car another dimension of depth. It was this artistic potential that caught the attention of Schaffhausen-based watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. Indeed, the discreetly sized 38mm Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse looks for all intents and purposes like a representation of a total eclipse. And that has completely to do with the
Vantablack dial. Complementing this silhouette of the moon is the bezel in steel or red gold, which suggests the halo of the solar corona (that gaseous, outermost part of the sun’s atmosphere visible only during a total solar eclipse), most especially when combined with the polished inner bezel (flange). Further complementing these are the scalloped parts of the case band, which are intricately hand-polished and contrast beautifully with the brushed finishing on the rest of the case. This adds an air of timeless elegance to the watch. But this isn’t the same kind of watch with Vantablack dial that the watchmaker had created before.
Previous models with the light absorbing material have been characterized by their absolute minimalist purity. Indeed, Vantablack is incredibly delicate and cannot come into contact with anything else. In fact, a Vantablack surface can be damaged by just a simple touch, which explains why previous Vantablack dials have all been unadorned with nary a logo or marker seen anywhere. It was such a welcome surprise, then to see exquisite marker dots for the indices on the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse dial, a small, normally insignificant detail to be sure, but one that lends definition and rhythm to the dial. A first for H. Moser & Cie., the dots highlight
the expertise the company has gained from working with the high-tech material. The Schaffhausen-based Manufacture even had to develop a special technique of drilling the dots onto the dial plate beneath before applying the Vantablack treatment, just to meet the requirements of Mark Cho and The Armoury. And looking at the watch the result is inescapable. Classic and contemporary almost to a fault, the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse looks especially stunning with Breguet-style hands especially prized by Mark Cho. These have been tweaked ever so slightly for this particular design with the hour and minute hands finished with a circle at the tips, and small-seconds hand adorned with a dot-style marker to echo the indices. And when taken as a whole with the marker dots results in a stunning dial, which most definitely evokes stars and constellations in the night sky that only serve to highlight the blackness of the Vantablack even more. Turn the watch over and the owner is treated to an astonishing view of the HMC 327 manually wound movement. And what a view it is; too many watches nowadays have movements that are way too small for their exhibition casebacks. Not so with the HMC 327 manually wound movement, which is practically overflowing out of its exhibition caseback. Reminiscent of old-school pocket watch movements, the HMC 327 is hand-finished with double-crested Moser stripes. It features hacking seconds, a power reserve indicator, a Straumann Hairspring produced by Moser’s sister Company Precision Engineering, operates at a classic 18,000 vibrations/hour, and boasts a three-day power reserve. "Absolutely everything in this model links back to this quest for ultimate elegance, combining classicism with a contemporary feel," explains Edouard Meylan. "Its 38- mm diameter is perfectly balanced.We opted for the smallest and finest of our movements, the handwound HMC 327 calibre, with an offset small second at 6 o'clock, reminiscent of the pocket-watch style." The Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse is available as two limited editions of only 28 pieces each. It is matched with a black calf leather strap especially designed and created by The Armoury, which combines two different textures of leather to enhance its elegance. It is available in The Armoury stores in New York and Hong Kong, as well as on the online sales platforms of both companies, and comes with a pocket square developed also by The Armoury for H. Moser & Cie., proving once again that sophistication and elegance resides in the smallest details.
www.calibremagazine.com
| 87
FEATURE
Sheer Gradiance Hamilton gives its Jazzmaster Open Heart a subtle upgrade Words by
Kit Payumo
N
ot many people are aware of this but despite its “budget,” and “more affordable” category, Hamilton has an amazing number of collections, and a staggering number of watches that, well, seem to be too good to be true…at least in terms of price point. Indeed, the care and resulting quality that goes into each and every Hamilton wristwatch contradicts its “budgetfriendly” status. And one of the areas where this is most evidently displayed is in the brand’s openworked models. That’s right, Hamilton has a surprising number of skeletonized models within their numerous collections, and is yet another example of how Hamilton quality belies its “entry-level” category. Indeed, watches from the brand’s many collections punch way above their weight and feature the kind of skeletonization usually reserved for mid-range to higher end watchmakers. A great example of this is from the Jazzmaster collection. Specifically, the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic, which has been in the collection for many years and, which has, in fact, been a consistent best seller for the brand. This has a lot to do with the aforementioned “Hamilton-brandof-quality,” something that the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic has in spades with a stainless steel case that’s tastefully finished with a mix of highly polished surfaces on the bezel and case side, set off against finely brushed lugs. Speaking of which, the lugs themselves are striking, they add visual interest to their structural necessity by extending up the sides of the stainless steel
88 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Reference H32675140
case. And with a case size of 40mm in diameter and a height of just 11.05mm, the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic can just about be worn by anyone. It’s the dial, however, that gives this model its bragging points. The true star of the show, the dial of the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic features an intricate pattern of openings that reveals the automatic movement within. And we’re not talking just any pattern here, nor are we talking a straight-on transparent dial. No, the openings on the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic are a novel take on the “open heart dial” and can only be described as bold and “eccentric.” In fact, the cutouts have a high-polish bevel, which transitions sharply to a brushed inside edge. Indeed, this is a perfect example of the kind of quality craftsmanship that defines the Jazzmaster line, as well as the rest of Hamilton’s many collections, for that matter. This year, the Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic has received a subtle upgrade with new dial colors in midnight blue, deep green and silver-white. The first two are executed with a gradient effect that adds depth to the dial, and evokes the tasteful ambiance of a fumé dial: dark on the outside and
slowly growing lighter towards the inside. These deep blue and green hues are set off by sword shaped hour and minute hands and markers, the former of which are nickeled and swathed in SuperLumi-Nova. The third silver-white dial, however, does not feature a gradient effect but is no less striking with the same shaped hour and minutes hands (also with SuperLumi-Nova) and markers, which have been blued making them pop out against the silvery background. Complementing the new colors are those aforementioned cutouts that reveal the Hamilton H-10 movement within, a modern calibre that benefits from a non-magnetic Nivachron balance spring and boasts a power reserve of no less than 80 hours. The movement runs at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour and can be viewed in its entirety from the sapphire crystal caseback. The Jazzmaster Open Heart Automatic models with green and dark blue dials are matched with dark brown leather straps with a smoked patina. The model with the silver-while dial, however, gets a dark blue leather strap that matches the blue accents of its dial. An optional Hamilton stainless steel bracelet can also be had for all three models.
Reference H32675540
Reference H32675160
“Hamilton has a surprising number of skeletonized models within their numerous collections, and is yet another example of how Hamilton quality belies its “entry-level” category”
Reference H32675150
Reference H32675650
www.calibremagazine.com
| 89
FEATURE
Confident Beauty The Lady-Datejust is meant just for women Words by
Katherine Cunanan
T
he world that existed in the 1950s was very different from our world today. And I don’t mean just technology and gadgets. I mean how people viewed each other, how society viewed women in particular, and more importantly, how women viewed themselves. Having survived the challenge of World War 2 meant women more clearly saw that they could be strong while the men in the family and community were off fighting the war. Women accepted that strength and beauty were not mutually exclusive, that women can excel in various fields while still exuding grace.
Women of Strength and Beauty One such woman of strength and beauty was Sylvia Earle. In 1957 she worked on completing her Master of Science, and through the years has become a celebrated oceanographer and explorer. She is a marine biologist and has been a National Geographic explorer-in-residence since 1998. Her research focused on threats to the oceans caused by overfishing and pollution. She also held the world record for the deepest untethered dive.
90 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Audrey Hepburn is another woman of substance and in 1957, her film career had taken off with previous releases of Sabrina and Funny Face. Hepburn would grace the silver screen for years to come and would be one of the few to lay claim to EGOT fame, meaning she has won an Emmy, a Grammy, an Oscar, and a Tony. Equally impressive is her stint as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador from 1989 to 1993. Equestrian Pat Smythe was achieving great success in 1957 as well. Having won the Leading Showjumper of the Year title at the very first Horse of the Year Show in 1949, she continued on achieving success in her chosen sport. The Olympic Games in 1956 were truly special, since women were finally allowed to participate in Showjumping. Smythe was the first woman to win an Olympic Showjumping medal. Fashion designer Adele Simpson was creating clothing for similarly strong and beautiful women. Her remastering of French couture into ready-to-wear clothing made her creations the go-to for classic pieces that were beautifully designed and very well made. Her pieces had clean lines in beautiful fabrics that were easy to take care of. Perfect for the modern woman.
The first Lady-Datejust, launched in 1957.
FEATURE
Lady-Datejust in an Everose Rolesor version, bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, chocolate dial set with 10 diamonds.
A Watch for the Ladies Women such as these were becoming the norm and they needed a watch that could keep up with them. Hans Wildorf, Rolex founder, answered that call. In 1957, Rolex introduced the LadyDatejust. It was based on the men’s version, but made intentionally for the lady. The smaller size meant Rolex had their work cut out for them and the model also received the COSC chronometric certification. Women needed excellence and reliability, just like the men did. The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust gave women more than just elegance and reliability though, it gave them freedom and independence. For the woman that already knew her own strength, the watch was an affirmation that she deserved all she was achieving, and could go on to do even more. For the woman who needed a gentle nudge, the watch was that encouragement she needed. If other women like me can do this, so can I.
American marine biologist Sylvia Earle has been a Rolex Testimonee since 1982.
British biologist and 2019 Associate Rolex Awards Laureate Emma Camp is committed to saving coral reefs.
© KEYSTONE/AP Photo/Str
© Rolex/ Franck Gazzola
Legendary golfer Annika Sörenstam has been a Rolex Testimonee since 1994.
Garbiñe Muguruza, a force in women's tennis, has been a Rolex Testimonee since 2016.
© Rolex/ Eddie Keogh
© Rolex/ Gianni Ciaccia
Rolex’s first Testimonee in the arts was New Zealand soprano Dame Kiri Te Kanawa in the 1970s.
Young pianist Yuja Wang has been a Rolex Testimonee since 2009.
Modern day achievers Just as marine biologist Sylvia Earle has a LadyDatejust on her wrist, so does biologist Emma Camp, who is working to protect coal reefs. These ladies have science, the oceans, excellence, and beauty in common. Isn’t the Earth lucky to have such beautiful warriors out to protect her? Amazing athletes and champions Annika Sörenstam for golf and Garbiñe Muguruza for tennis each have a Lady-Datejust accompanying them through their tournaments. Professional athletes have demanding training schedules and physically exhausting competitions. Good thing they have a watch that can keep up with them. The musical world has its fair share of excellent women too, with singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa, pianist Yuja Wang, and sitar virtuoso Anoushka Shankar. Music has the power to stir emotions and build feelings to a crescendo, and while many musicians are born with a talent for musicality, it also takes years of training to develop the skills to the level of excellence.
© Rolex/ Hugo Glendinning
© Nigel Luckhurst
www.calibremagazine.com
| 93
FEATURE
The Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.
The Inner Workings The details in the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are what make the watch such a perfect partner for strong women. The case is just 28mm in diameter, smaller than the men’s version and well suited for the female wrist. The middle case made from Oystersteel, a stainless steel alloy that is highly resistant to corrosion, or 18 ct. gold. The expected Rolex features are here too — the hermetically sealed caseback, the Twinlock winding crown, the sapphire crystal. These features are in place to protect the calibre 2236 movement inside the watch. The self-winding mechanical movement, fully Rolex developed and manufactured, carries several patents. Among the patents in action here is one for the Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which means it is not affected by magnetic fields, and is thus more stable and reliable. The watch is extremely precise, has a solid power reserve of roughly 55 hours, and is resistant to shocks and magnetic fields. It is clear why women in varying fields find this watch to be their chosen companion. It can withstand nearly everything.
The Details Though Rolex makes the watches that everyone wants, they also make the watches with so many possible combinations that you can sort of feel like you have your very own version of the watch. There are different dial materials to choose from, and in different colors or shades too. A classic choice is the mother-of-pearl dial, which by the nature of the material, is different on each watch.
94 |
www.calibremagazine.com
The Lady-Datejust is equipped with the Syloxi hairspring.
Yes, all have an impressive degree of luster, but sometimes the nuance on one dial is more appealing than another. Hour markers may be simple indices, or in Roman or Arabic numerals; or even diamonds. The bezel offers another opportunity to stand out. The bezel could be classically domed, or stylishly fluted, or dazzlingly gem-set. The metal alloy for the case and bracelet is also an opportunity for special preferences. There is the previously-mentioned Oystersteel; 18-carat yellow, white, or Everose gold; and a Rolesor option (meaning Osytersteel and yellow, white, or Everose gold). The diamonds and gemstones chosen for the Rolex watches are only the best of best, picked specifically for the perfect cut, intense color, and pristine clarity. Diamonds, for example, are ones
with no visible inclusions, and have been cut to bring out the inner beauty of each stone. Each aspect contributes to the perfect look and feel of the Rolex timepiece. Speaking of feel, the type of bracelet is also a variation that allows for choice. Different versions have a different bracelet type, and you might need to try on several models to see which one feels best on your wrist (what a great way to spend the day, trying on Rolex watches). Some models have the three-piece link Oyster bracelet with a folding Osyterclasp. For me, this one seems the most masculine of the bracelet options, perhaps due to the flat links. There is the five-piece link Jubilee bracelet, which was created specifically for the Datejust. And the three-piece link President bracelet with a crown clasp. The semi-circular links of the President bracelet seem more gentle to me somehow. Of the many Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust models available, perhaps the most sought after is the recently released one that is fully gem-set. The 18 ct. yellow gold model is covered in diamonds. To start, the dial is paved with 291 brilliantcut diamonds. Then we have 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, and an additional 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The President bracelet gets the special treatment too, with 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is the ideal watch for strong and beautiful women. Picking and choosing from the many design aspects allows you to choose one that suits your personal aesthetic. Enjoy the experience of finding the perfect one.
Lady-Datejust in a white Rolesor version with a fluted bezel and a dark grey dial with Roman numerals.
TIMEFRAME
CHECK MATE At the park in Geneve Switzerland park goers can use these XL chess and checkers pieces to challenge their mates to a game of wits.
Photo by Keith Sundiang
96 |
www.calibremagazine.com
Not yet a subscriber? For inquiries and subscription details visit: calibremagazine.com/subscription