THE LUXURY OF TIME VOLUME 17 ISSUE 136
Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
PERFECT 10
Patek Philippe Revels a High-Beat, High-Precision Chronograph PHP275
I SSN 19 0 8 - 49 9 4
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MINUTES E DITOR' S
WO RDS
We Are Having The Wrong Conversations
W
e are talking too much about, and hearing way too much about, waiting lists and drops and the word grail, about prices and sellers and flippers. We should be talking about craftsmanship, about passion, about history, about responsibility past a balance sheet and a yearend figure. And all that is there. And it can be had and seen in the same people and groups and companies that also have all the conversations we shouldn’t have. Which is confusing. We should be talking about Rolex, for example, not because we complain about who gets a watch or who doesn’t but about how one person understood decades ago that people, individually and as a whole, needed better timepieces. We take for granted the reliability and robustness and even the ability to service watches when before that wasn’t even a possibility. Many people speak of the costs of service at an authorized Rolex Service Center, but love the fact that their watch has increased tremendously in secondary market value with no work on their part. But guess what? Those go hand in hand. The historic secondary market strength of Rolex watches is hugely influenced by the commitment of the foundation (please do
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remember, Rolex is actually a foundation) to provide proper levels of service and experience to those that buy their product. There is serious cost to doing that in major cities all over the world. Before a watch is released or a part is changed, for example, the technicians need to be trained, the parts need to be bought, moved and stocked, the tools need to be procured and more. And all this is thought through even during the design process. At Rolex, those that have to service have regular conversations with those that design engineer, plan and fund.
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief
carsandcalibres
There is so much past the simple piece that algorithms are telling you what everyone else in the world thinks and wants. Even for the brands and names and reference numbers you are familiar with, there is more to talk about and understand. And much more with those names you may not know yet. So let us talk about how hard it is to bevel the edge of a piece smaller than half a fingernail, and why you want to do it. Let us talk about why some people love ETA handwound movements (I do) even though they are not “manufacture” and let us even talk about how “manufacture” will actually affect you. Let us show that there is design and engineering and ergonomic nuance that goes into the shape of a bracelet link or the side of a case. We recently had two meet-ups, one mostly about independents and one mostly about Tudor, so a wide range of pricing between the two and even within the independents. We looked at intelligence of design and value to the end user. We talked about how small details make big changes. We talked about how simplicity and complexity can coexist. In both those groups, the unobtanium “grail” waitlist watches were there, they never made it out of the cases. You have no idea how refreshing it is to have those conversations again.
IWC TOP GUN.
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN.
surge of adrenaline it delivers. Housed inside the rugged
Ref. 3891: Developed for the elite pilots of the TOP GUN
case made of ceramic is an automatic, IWC-manufac-
aviation school, our TOP GUN Chronograph goes from
tured 69380-calibre movement. All in all, a precision in-
success to success. Its secret? Functional design, ultra-
strument for individuals destined to excel themselves.
tough, high-performance materials and the exhilarating
I WC . E N G I N E E R I N G D R E A M S . S I N C E 1868 .
IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland · www.iwc.com
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Contents COVER WATCH
30 Patek Philippe Striking Back: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P
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5,500 MILES On 5th October 1931 Clyde Pangborn and Hugh Herndon, Jr., two daring American aviators, completed the world’s first nonstop, transpacific flight from Japan to the United States. They took off and landed 41 hours later in Wenatchee, Washington, having covered a distance of 5,500 miles. At the time, it was the longest flight ever made over water.
LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME
LONGINES BOUTIQUE 2/F, MEGA FASHION HALL SM MEGAMALL, MANDALUYONG CITY
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Contents FEATURES
38 Vacheron Constantin Gives their Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar a touch of the blues
42 Rolex
What’s the buzz all about? Check out Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual GMT
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Contents FEATURES
46 Omega
Goes deep…O-MEGA deep
50 A. Lange & Söhne Welcomes a new era in sound
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Contents FEATURES
54 Tudor
A new technical model with new aesthetics
58 Panerai
Continues its powerful collaboration with BRABUS
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Contents FEATURES
62 Bulgari
A modern interpretation of the sundial
66 IWC
Discover the new Pilot watches in new armour
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Contents FEATURES
70 Jaeger-LeCoultre
Enriches the Master Control
74 TAG Heuer
Grows diamonds in a lab
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Contents FEATURES
78 Zenith
A new iteration of the chronograph
82 Hermès
Travels the world as only the French powerhouse can
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Contents REGULARS
86 Oris
Is animated in cloisonné enamel
90 Longines
Keeping the heritage up to date
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2022
Contents FEATURES
94 Chopard
Chronometer chic
02 Minutes
Carl S. Cunanan
24 The Wind-Up
18 Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World
20 Back to Basics
28 Parallel Passion
22 Vintage Explorer
96 Timeframe
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Pictures in time as we travel the world
Jose Martin V. Ursúa
Pictures in time as we travel the world
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MASTHEAD
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief
Mayette L. Asis Vice President
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher
Executive Editor Joseph Peter C. Calimbas
Advertising Manager Leslie G. Maxilom
Chairman Michael L. Lhuillier
Senior Editor Hernan C. Mapua
Advertising Traffic Manager Mary Jane O. Salazar
Managing Director Paolo M. Puyat-Martel
Collections Editor Jason S. Ang
Board of Directors Michael L. Lhuillier Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco
Associate Editor Kit O. Payumo Senior Staff Writer Alberto E. Casal
Senior Accountant Merline B. Urdas
Editor-at-Large Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Credit and Collection Officer Mary Ann M. Benito
Design Director Charie L. Biaden
On The Cover
Senior Designer Mark David A. See
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. 14th floor , 88 Corporate Center, 141 Valero corner Sedeño St., Salcedo Village Makati City 1227 Philippines Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 Visit: www.calibremagazine.com
Designer Mary Ann E. Marcelo Contributing Writers Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich Santos Dominique O. Cerqueda Contributing Photographer Keith Sundiang
Legal Counsel Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office
Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph Volume 17 Issue 136 June 2022
#5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City Tel: (+632) 7945-5089
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Calibre Magazine PH
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Copyright © 2022 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.
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20 22
TEMPUS INCOGNITUM
State Of Affairs
W
ith the end of the pandemic seemingly within reach, many industries are enjoying a great renaissance during the first quarter of the year. Revenge spending is occurring in various sectors especially travel, dining (much to the dismay of the heroic food delivery specialists everywhere) and even the timepiece market which has shown a return to prepandemic turnover levels. According to a report published by the Federation of Swiss Watch Industry FH last March, the industry as a whole breached the CHF2.1 Billion in exports or an 11.4% growth rate for the same period last year. The growth was buoyed by a strengthening market in the United States posting a 31.8% growth that negated the slowing markets of China (-27.6%) and Hong Kong (-9.3%). Interestingly, data showed that exports in March slightly dipped down on a monthto-month basis. Possibly due to the Russian export ban? Russia has always been a strong market for Swiss watches and a prohibition on sales in Russia will definitely hurt. In a surprising turn of events (said no one ever), Rolex continued to dominate Swiss watch exports with a whopping 28.8% market share. Omega kept its hold on the number two spot
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“According to a report published by the Federation of Swiss Watch Industry FH last March, the industry as a whole breached the CHF2.1 Billion in exports or an 11.4% growth rate for the same period last year. ”
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
followed by Cartier despite the latter posting bigger sales numbers. Other notable facts shown on a study done by the Morgan Stanley research department shows Patek Philippe drop to number 6 from its previous fourth place in terms of sales revenue in 2021. Quite possibly, the closure of its manufacture during the pandemic hurt its ability to produce timepieces. Meanwhile, the secondary or grey market continued to enjoy brisk movement during the COVID era. Now a USD20 Billion industry that could double by 2030, the demand for certain timepieces that cannot be procured from ADs or BNIB remain high and often changes hand with a 50%-100% mark up. Credit goes to hype generated on various social media platforms. While the surge in watch sales (particularly in the US and UK), boutique purchases or otherwise can be due to an increased online presence, it’s also due to the boom in crypto currency with those cashing in on their block chain gains opting for more tangible assets to hold on. It’ll be interesting to see if watch sales are impacted by the recent slide of the crypto market. That it for now, I guess. Time for my pandemic go-to G-shock GW-A1100 to go back into storage after 2 years and start winding up the mechanicals. Got to do some revenge spending.
Quality desrves time.
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BACK TO BASICS
The Social Aspect of Watch Collecting
T
hese past 2 years have been difficult for everyone. With all of the uncertainty brought about by the pandemic, the watch industry was very much affected by it in so many ways. Watch brands had to radically increase their online presence especially during the early days of the pandemic when widespread lockdowns and restrictions on movement were common around the world. Most collectors also had to change their spending habits depending on the stability of their respective sources of income, and even had to factor in the difficulty of getting some watches shipped from another country due to COVID restrictions. Given all of these previously mentioned challenges, I would say that getting physically cut off from people was probably the most difficult thing during the pandemic. For watch enthusiasts and members of the industry, attending virtual watch fairs and Zoom events were the highlights of our existence during the past few years. On the other side, it’s also true that information dissemination probably got better during the pandemic since everyone had to work and market online…. even traditionally brick and mortar companies such as certain watch brands. Despite these improvements in making online watch events a lot better than before, nothing beats the real, physical thing. The excitement of attending the online version of Watches and Wonders Geneva back in 2021
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“Despite these improvements in making online watch events a lot better than before, nothing beats the real, physical thing.”
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large
simply paled in comparison to being physically present at one of the many watch model or watch boutique launches I attended here in the Philippines before the pandemic. It’s just not the same. Probably one of the most important things in watch collecting is sharing your passion with a group of like-minded people. This simple yet important interaction with fellow enthusiasts was kept alive during the pandemic by social media, but then again, nothing beats the real thing. It may be a bit nostalgic, but I can still remember those ‘COVID-free’ days when my friends and I would meet up after dinner at one of our houses and stay up until well past midnight talking about watches and different hobbies. Just this Monday I was privileged enough to meet up with some old (and new) friends and experience again this priceless joy of physically being in the presence of other watch enthusiasts. Though my watch collecting has drastically slowed down over the years, seeing new and beautiful watches and talking about them with similarly passionate individuals in the flesh is more than enough for me to rekindle that childlike joy in this fascinating hobby. Watch collecting does indeed have a social aspect. Just like people say that there’s nothing like sharing a good meal with good friends, the same holds true with watch collecting. Appreciating and talking about watches together with friends is arguably the most enjoyable and important part of this hobby.
Time passes irrevocably.
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20 22
VINTAGE EXPLORER
The Wax and Wane of the MoonSwatch
O
n a quiet day in late March, the news came with such little preamble that some dismissed it as an early April Fool’s prank: Full-sized “BioCeramic” Speedmaster case, quartz, 11 variants, $260. The chatter started quickly: “Where would it be sold? For how much?” It didn’t take long before the questions were then asked with some alarm: “How many are being made? How many can I buy? And how many others are thinking the exact same thoughts as me?” That is how I found myself in line on a near-freezing Saturday morning, half-assing the attempted acquisition by arriving at 9:30AM, well behind the hundreds who had formed a line the night before. A defeated customer walked in the opposite direction, telling everyone that there’d been fewer than 100 watches — all now sold — and that the queue would only lead to a numbered scrap of paper. I believed him and left, but most remained. There was a rush for hot takes. By and large, the MoonSwatch was viewed positively by the media and collectors alike, myself included. I thought it was an ingenious way of, as clichéd as it sounds, increasing brand awareness. As watch enthusiasts, we kid ourselves about just how recognizable our beloved icons are in the culture. We assume that everyone must know the Speedmaster and its historically important connection with NASA and the Moon landings. Sorry to break it to you, but the percentage of the population who know what Apollo 11 was is dropping with each passing year. What was the world-unifying
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event of 1969 is a trivia night answer for younger generations. The MoonSwatch’s drastically reduced price point democratizes that piece of history, and rebuilds the original’s legend. The other ten variants are mostly fun and good-looking watches, but the Mission to the Moon is basically a quartz homage of the Speedmaster Professional, minus the stigma. As a bonus, news of the MoonSwatch’s hype jumped from the specialist watch press to become a mainstream story. For me, the greatest boon of the MoonSwatch was the ability to entertain this notion: How nice would it be to see a truly iconic and handsome watch on a shelf, and be able to purchase it for a few hundred dollars, without any consideration of scarcity or future resale value? The difficulty of obtaining many
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
things (exacerbated by COVID-19) means that we are irrationally compelled to buy something now, whether we want it or not. Speaking for myself, I intended to buy maybe three out of the collection, reassured that I wouldn’t feel pressure to get all eleven or else miss out on a big payday down the road. Despite my earnest and child-like wish, the MoonSwatch’s release immediately unleashed the less appealing aspects of our hobby. It’s possible that most who queued that Friday evening were genuine fans, and looked forward to wearing the new Speedy. But it is more likely that many were speculators/arbitrageurs/ scalpers who saw this as one of the greatest rainmaker events of the year. It wasn’t long before the pieces were listed on eBay for thousands of dollars. But the faithful among us believed that all would be resolved in the long term. Omega/Swatch repeatedly stated that this would not be a limited run, and that all models would eventually be sold online. Be patient; all would be right. Here is where our hope turns into anger and regret. The Swatch Group has reneged on its promise and has decided to keep selling limited quantities at selected stores. The speculation will continue. What Swatch have done is democratize the frustrating process of securing a desirable watch. Now, the average Joe understands the pain of collectors who have tens of thousands of dollars to spend, but can’t seem to get their hands on that Nautilus or Daytona. But in all seriousness, this was a golden opportunity to give the masses a taste of luxury watch ownership. As of May 2022, it has been squandered.
“Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter.” — Gay Talese, Author
parallel passion
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THE WIND-UP Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
BLUE SKIES
The sky’s no longer the limit for the new Air-King
T
he brand-new Oyster Perpetual Air-King just dropped at the recent Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022, and we have
to say Rolex has another winner on its hands. The original 34 - 36mm Air-King took flight in 1958 and was geared to pay tribute to the pilots of the golden age of aviation. As such, it catered to a very specific and discerning clientele. The new Air-King does that and more! And that’s because Rolex updated pretty much every single element of the watch, while keeping the design safely familiar, and it’s amazing how a few “adjustments” can change everything. The result is the epitome of evolution…Rolex-style evolution. Welcome the new Oyster Perpetual Air-King (Ref. 126900); a new model that looks great on paper but looks even better in the metal. Best of all the adjustments weren’t just aesthetic. The new Air-King has been repositioned and moved into the hallowed halls of the brand’s Professional watch line, which means A LOT. For starters, it gets a completely new Oyster case with the sharp edges and slab sides that mark the majority of Professional category models. This means the new Air-King now comes with crown guards even while retaining its smooth, polished (albeit thinner) bezel. Yes, many will do a double take when they see an Oyster case with crown guards but with no functional or informational bezel. But somehow it all works here.
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This being a Rolex, the 40mm Oyster case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosionresistant alloy, while the caseback, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with the special tool only available to Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Oyster case also boasts a Twinlock winding crown, which screws down securely against the case, is fitted with a double waterproofness system, and is protected by an integral crown guard. All of which guarantees the new Air-King waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), making it a paragon of robustness and reliability. Morphing the Air-King into the brand’s Professional category also means it finally feels and functions like a real pilot’s watch. Premier of which, is an upgraded and larger black, glossy dial thanks to the thinner bezel. It has also been re-balanced with the addition of a ‘0’ before the ‘5’ on the minutes scale. This means each five-minute interval is now marked with two digits, a small adjustment that goes a long way for dial symmetry. Further, previous incarnations featured Arabic numerals without luminescent material. The new Air-King dial is optimized with a Chromalight display with the hour and minute hands and triangular hour marker at 12 o’clock filled with the new luminescent material. As are the robust 3, 6 and 9 numerals, which were previously made entirely from 18K white gold, and are
5mm. In addition, a concealed attachment
Parachrom hairspring manufactured by
now also visible in the dark thanks to this
system ensures seamless visual
Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy.
exclusive and innovative Rolex material.
continuity between the bracelet and case.
Even the bracelet benefitted from a few
In the end, the new Oyster Perpetual
The Air-King’s old engine has also
Air-King is still not a Rolex for everyone.
adjustments. Thanks to a wider center
been swapped with the modern calibre
There are a lot out there who will still go
link, the three-piece link Oyster bracelet is
3230, which incorporates the patented
with the more traditionally popular (read:
about 0.5mm wider on the new Air-King,
Chronergy escapement to combine high-
obvious) models that the brand has to
and now comes with the Oysterlock safety
energy efficiency with great dependability.
offer. But for those who want to stand out,
clasp to prevent accidental opening, and
The movement is made of nickel-
and add a more distinctly styled Rolex to
the Easylink comfort extension link, which
phosphorus, is insensitive to magnetic
their collection the Air-King is the Rolex
allows the bracelet to extend by around
fields, and is fitted with an optimized blue
to have.
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THE WIND-UP
ROOT BEER GMT Tudor takes a sip of nostalgia with the new Black Bay GMT
Sporting a 41mm, satin-brushed, 316L stainless steel case, the new Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G pours on the charm with a yellow gold bidirectional rotating bezel highlighting a matt brown and black insert with a 24-hour graduated scale, the color scheme of which is fondly reminiscent of the classic Rolex “Root Beer” GMT
T
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wo-tone watches were all
models of yore. These are bolstered by
the rage back in the 70s,
the familiar domed, grained, matt-black
which was when Rolex
dial with applied markers, which also go
released the first wave of
the warmer route with gold surrounds. A
what has become fondly
signed gold crown also joins this wave,
known as Root Beer GMTs. Fast forward
as well as gold center links on the Tudor
to 2022 and in a wave of nostalgia Tudor
riveted bracelet.
has decided to take a sip of the proverbial
Once again, Tudor has employed
soft drink by giving their reliable Black Bay
the time-keeping services of its ever-
GMT the steel & gold (S&G) treatment,
reliable Manufacture Calibre MT5652,
and not only does it add a welcome
which has served the platform since
element of warmth to the model, it also
2018. Having long since proven itself
serves as another indelible connection to
with its adaptable architecture capable
the brand’s big brother, Rolex.
of adapting new functions…all without
resorting to additional modules, calibre MT5652 features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, and a healthy "weekendproof" power reserve of about 70 hours, all while being certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Best of all, the movement’s GMT function allows the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G to indicate up to three time zones. On the dial, the reference time is indicated by the main angular “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of Tudor, which makes a lap around the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is connected to the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day, a very practical and technical detail for the user. These are all enhanced by the 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and “24-hour” hand, as well as the anodized aluminum disc of the bezel, the graduations for the twelve daylight hours of which are goldcolored on the brown section, while the night-time hours are on the black section. Further driving the nostalgia is a brown leather strap with contrasting lightcolored stitching and a steel folding clasp, which seems to have been tailor made for the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G, and comes as an option instead of the stepped steel bracelet. But it’s the Jacquard-woven fabric strap, which has become one of the signature hallmarks of Tudor that seems to truly capture the spirit of the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G. It has been especially designed by the hundred-andfifty-year-old Julien Faure company, and for the new watch comes in black with a central gold-coloured band. All these enhancements allows the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G to successfully tap into everything that the word “nostalgia” implies, and that includes the romantic notion of traveling to far-off, exotic lands, walking in fields of gold, and just getting away from it all.
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20 22
PARALLEL PASSION Desirable Diversion
Wearing history, passion and enthusiasm Words by
Carl S. Cunanan
W
e do love our stories, our touches to history and to greatness and to cool. Not just in the watch world of course, but all over. A conversation on which watch would be technically the correct James Bond watch started off the conversation. From the book or from the movie? Which movie? That’s a rabbit hole unto it’s own. This led us to the men’s store Signet, a place very familiar to the Calibre Community. They love touches back in history as much as we do, but what really does that mean? And how important really are things like accuracy, authenticity, spirit? The Julius Tart Optical glasses for example. Their AR frames are based on an original design from the 1950s that was made extremely popular by James Dean. Many companies say that they are the original maker of those glasses, but in this case that isn’t what we are looking for. This limited run interpretation of those glasses uses the same thick shape but with gold furniture instead of silver. They also do a line called FDR after the US president Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Baracuta is an English clothes maker perhaps most known and loved for a jacket that was seen on Steve McQueen. The G9 Archive Fit model is based on the same Harrington jackets introduced in the 1950s as well, and that draws a particular niche of enthusiasts. The company also produces more modern fits and styles.
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Julius Tart Optical AR Gold
Baracuta 1007 Mist (G9 Archive)
Photo by John Raymond Lim
Pieces, provenance and just plain fun
The Real McCoy's Type A-2 / Canyon Road (MJ21001)
Alden Indy Boot (405)
Photo by John Raymond Lim
A favorite piece of many is a beat up old leather jacket most would call a flight jacket or a bomber jacket. There are many iterations and many makers. A company named The Real McCoy’s tries to recreate many “workwear” type items of general historic significance as closely as possible. Their version of the A-2 Flight Jacket tries to follow as closely as they can the original leather jackets worn by pilots in World War II, and in movies about that era. Some companies recreate pieces using specific people as inspiration. Papa Nui is a cap and clothing company that calls itself a state of mind, named after an atoll in the South Pacific. You can see writer Ernest Hemingway wearing a long-billed cap in photos, the better to keep the sun out of his eyes as it was low on the horizon when he was fishing. The “Hemingway” cap is a regular item now. One of our favorite companies is Alden, the American Shoe Maker. While they have been around for quite a while, they may well be best known by most for a boot that ended up on Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones movie series. This is an example of a regular product at the time, the Alden Truebalance walking boot, being used in the movie and in this case even though it was supposedly chosen over other more well-known brands like Red Wings by Ford himself because, well, they were actually the boots he bought himself. Those boots are now called the Indys and remain a popular item in the catalog of the Massachusetts shoemaker. Some of these pieces try to be true recreations, some clearly try to be modern takes. Sometimes the prose of the company is so flowery you can’t be sure if they are stating facts or just channeling their inner enthusiast. But there is vision behind them, and fun in using them, and that is what counts more than anything else really.
Papa Nui Hemingway Cap
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COVER WATCH
Striking Back The Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P Words by
Jose Martin V. Ursúa
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COVER WATCH
Is there a manufacturer that is more scrutinized at every horological trade show than Patek Philippe?
Yes, there will be the annual complaints about Rolex’s glacial pace of innovation, but a recurring theme in recent years has been Patek Philippe’s challenge in broadening its appeal to a younger demographic, while simultaneously fending off accusations of playing it too safe. In 2022’s Watches and Wonders, the announcement of Patek Philippe’s novelties put vocal enthusiasts on an emotional roller-coaster for watches that most of them would never consider buying. For example, reactions to the tarmac-dialed Calatrava were decidedly mixed, with many dismissing it as a hugely expensive Hamilton Khaki. However, Patek Philippe recovered impressively with this watch, the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph. Reactions to the 5470P have been overwhelmingly positive—again, from people who will likely never see one in person, but it is good to be loved, regardless. Here is a chronograph that starts with a traditional appearance, gives it a fresh new coat of paint, and offers substantive technical bona fides in an area that is an undiscovered country for Patek Philippe: high-beat movements. Perhaps a definition is in order: What is a high-beat or high-frequency movement? In common usage, the term refers to any watch calibre that vibrates at a rate higher than 8bps (or 4Hz), which some laymen refer to as “the Rolex Sweep.” High-beat movements are appealing for two main reasons: aesthetics and precision. A seconds hand that smoothly traces
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▲ Its primary color scheme makes the 5470P the most contemporary-looking Patek Philippe chronograph.
⊲ A simple crown bearing the Calatrava Cross charges the 48-hour power reserve.
the circumference of a dial looks beautiful to someone who grew up among cheap quartzes. Similarly attractive are the visually perfect (or near-perfect) arcs of, say, a high-frequency tuning-fork movement like the Bulova Accutron or a hybrid electro-mechanical movement like the Seiko Spring Drive. For purely mechanical watches that can be worn daily, 10 bps (or 36,000 bph) is about as good as it gets, other than some very specialized timepieces by the likes of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Chopard. As far as precision benefits, we intuit that the more often a balance can work, the better it can offset the effects of gravity and impacts of the type felt on a wrist at the end of a swinging arm. As with the rationale for the tourbillon beloved of enthusiasts, this intuition is backed by theory, but in practice there are many other factors contributing to ultimate accuracy.
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COVER WATCH
▲ Two hands track seconds and tenths of a second, with the red Silinvar sweep lapping the dial five times per minute.
⊲ One flawless diamond between the lugs marks this as a platinum case.
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⊲ The movement is beautifully decorated in a traditional Côtes de Genève finish, but the visual highlight is the starfish-like clutch wheel.
It was this quest for precision, and for victory at the prestigious Neuchâtel Observatory Chronometer Competitions, that drove several manufacturers to create highbeat movements after World War II. 1959 saw the world’s first wristwatch-sized high-beat movement with the Longines Cal. L 360, which would eventually birth the Ultra-Chron family of watches. As the 1960s progressed, more high-beat wristwatches would debut on the market. Girard Perregaux unveiled its Gyromatic in 1966, with Longines’ consumer-grade Cal.431 bowing the year after. Seiko’s love affair with 36,000 bph began in 1968, with examples from its competing Daini Seikosha (King Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (Grand Seiko) factories. The decade ended with the introduction of the legendary El Primero. Not only could it claim to be the first automatic chronograph (a claim that could be credibly challenged by Heuer and Seiko), but Zenith has remained the most constant standard-bearer of the high beat since 1969. Which brings us to the caliber that powers this newest Patek Philippe chronograph: The CH 29-535 PS 1/10 is not only the brand’s first foray into high-beat movements, but it is also its first chronograph capable of recording elapsed time to the tenth of a second. Its design was entirely in-house, using
patented new technologies pioneered by Patek Philippe’s “Advanced Research” department, itself an innovation in the traditional company’s approach to watch development when it was established in 2005. This hand-wind caliber makes extensive use of silicon alloy (Silinvar) parts and yields a 48-hour power reserve—generous, considering the increased demands of the higher beat rate. Further growing the movement’s parts list are the two separate chronograph mechanisms that drive the 5470P’s headline features. The two independent mechanisms power a rhodium-plated steel sweep hand that tracks seconds, and a longer, red-lacquered Silinvar sweep hand that tracks tenths of a second. Despite the addition of these mechanisms, the movement only grows from a thickness of 5.35mm to 6.96mm, resulting in a case that is 13.68mm, front to back. The aforementioned chronograph hands are the centerpieces of the 5470P’s handsome, sporty, and modern face. The dial is lacquered in deep blue, with markings in white and red. The red “1/10 SECOND” script, sweep hand, and outer track markers are arguably the most contemporary features of this watch. Brightwork, in the form of applied Breguet numerals and circular minute markers, are in 18K white gold. Also in white gold are the leaf hour and minute hands, as well as the small sword hands in the running-seconds and minute-counter registers. Other than a few modifications to accommodate this model’s special features, the dial layout is characteristic of Patek Philippe chronographs of the last decade. Like the recentlydeparted Ref. 5170, the 5470P features two subdials sitting slightly south of the equator. The main difference lies on the outer railway track, which marks ten segments between the arc of every hour. These segments act as redundant scales for the red, tenths-of-a-second sweep hand. Wherever it lands on the railway track is the number of tenths elapsed, and added to the seconds tracked by the steel sweep hand. Note that the 5470P’s red hand completes a lap of the dial every 12 seconds, which allows for this simple reading of tenths. In contrast, the functionally-similar Zenith Striking Tenth spins around the clock in just 10 seconds, requiring a separate scale on the outer track.
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COVER WATCH
"Patek Philippe advances the state of the art, while respecting its rich tradition." “P” is for platinum, and anyone who forgets this letter designation, or fails to notice the 5470P’s extra heft, will surely see the diamond nestled between the watch’s lower lugs. This diamond (a flawless, Top Wesselton, for the jewelers out there) is a feature common to all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models. The design of the 5470P’s precious case does not depart significantly from those of other recent Patek Philippe pieces. It is a clean combination of simple surfaces, the most interesting of which are the indented, satin-finished flanks that are punctuated at each corner by decorative caps for the springbars. Distinguishing the case from other chronographs in the Patek Philippe catalog is the single pusher that starts, stops, and resets the twin stopwatch mechanisms. Sapphire crystals can be found both front and back, though the rear window can be substituted with a solid platinum caseback for those who prefer the weight and feel of platinum on the wrist. However, that would mean the loss of a spectacular view. The movement is, of course, finished beautifully, but the highlight is the big, golden, 10th-of-a-second clutch wheel, its spindly arms slowly rotating when the chronograph is running, the futuristic Gyromax balance whirring beneath it. Hitting the pusher will sap the power reserve faster, but the kinetic show is worth the price. The youthful, modern styling of the 5470P is echoed once more on the colors of its surprisingly informal strap. This is a simple, navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and contrasting red stitching. At first glance, it might be mistaken for a common “sailcloth” strap, a term associated more strongly with dive watches from other brands. This strap is then affixed with the customarily stunning Cross-ofCalatrava deployment, also in platinum. It is not difficult to imagine this watch paired with a more formal leather band. With a list price of CHF 380,000, the expense of strap changes will not trouble the 5470P’s wearer much.
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The Patek Philippe 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph may not have a name that is mellifluous or catchy, but it definitely grabbed the attention of enthusiasts at the conclusion of Watches and Wonders 2022. It is a stunning rejoinder by Patek Philippe to its critics, who have accused the company of long resting on its laurels and trotting out new color variants of the same old Nautilus. Here is a marker of the manufacture’s future. It can advance the state of the art while maintaining its strong traditions. But most importantly, the Ref. 5470P is an object of high desire, and one that renews excitement for the brand of Patek Philippe. It’s nice to have your watches looked after and passed on from one generation to the next, but it’s even better to attract new paying customers!
J U N E
20 22
FEATURES Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
FEATURE
SKELETONS (out of) THE CLOSET Vacheron Constantin enhances their Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar anew
Words by
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Kit Payumo
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FEATURE
B
ack in our August 2019 issue, we dared ask the question, “Does money equate to good taste?” We asked the same question just a year later. And it all had to do with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar, which we loved when it made its bows in 2016. Back then the ultra-highend sports watch rocked a surprisingly utilitarian 11mm ultra-thin stainless steel case that really matched up with its “sporty” vocation. Because of its success, however, it was just a matter of time before the watchmaker acquiesced to more “precious” metals. Which is exactly what happened in 2018 with the addition of 18K 5N rose gold to the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar line up. But they didn’t stop at that, because just a year later, the 260-year old Manufacture multiplied the piece’s inherent “bling” factor ten-fold by taking the 18K 5N pink gold case of the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar, and matched it with a bracelet made up of half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links also in 18K 5N pink gold. And to our chagrin this “Eastern
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European Oligarch Special” with its whisper thin 41.5mm 18K 5M pink gold case, its signature semi-tonneau profile, and its signature six-sided bezel evoking Vacheron Constantin’s famous Maltese cross emblem was surprisingly successful! Still, no matter how we may feel about all-gold watches, we can still acknowledge that there is still something about one of the sweetest complications ever created wrapped in one of the slimmest shimmering all-gold packages ever to come out of the Vacheron Constantin factory floors. And we hate to admit it, but there’s something aesthetically seamless about the allgold combination complementing an obviously ultra-high-end complication. To counteract the overall “blingy-ness” of the whole affair, however, Vacheron Constantin went the extra mile in 2020 to deliver the same Overseas model in Squelette form. That’s right, the downright blingy Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar was given the skeletonized treatment ratcheting its horological cred back up in one fell swoop. And since the solid gold bracelet fastened down an even slimmer case now just 8.1mm thick, well, it became a verified no brainer, especially when the watch won the Calendar
and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020. And it all had to do with the entirely openworked, 4.05mm thick, ultra-thin mechanical self-winding Calibre 1120 QPSQ movement, which began life as the Caliber 1120 QP/1 (Quantième Perpétuel) used in the original stainless steel version. And despite its extensive skeletonization, the movement could adeptly display the time, day, date, month, leap year, and moon-phase indications, while being “smart” enough not to require manual correction until the year 2100. Indeed, skeletonization is regarded as a watchmaking complication in itself and consists of finely “removing” and “hollowing out” parts of the movement without ever compromising its integrity. This is obviously an extremely difficult and complex undertaking requiring skills mastered by very few watchmaking artisans. Fortunately, Vacheron Constantin is one of the rare Manufactures capable of openworking calibres as complex as perpetual calendars and ultra-thin movements. Best of all, open working did nothing to detract from the calibre’s required legibility, and is, in fact, a showcase for the functional beauty of the mechanical movement with a design that ensures that the watch is perfectly legible as it reveals its mechanical intricacies with the help of applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers, the Maltese cross emblem, as well as day, date and month counter rings. Never content to rest on its laurels, though, Vacheron Constantin felt that its work on its Overseas Perpetual Calendar wasn’t done, and that the 1120 QPSQ movement could still profit from a few more enhancements under its belt…not that it really needed it. Never the less, for 2022, the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar benefits from a newly interpreted openworked dial with blue highlights. Thus, the pronounced calendar display rings, as well as the flange with a minute scale are now rendered in blue, and contrasts beautifully with the inner workings of the 1120 QPSQ movement to provide even more legibility to the perpetual calendar. Otherwise it’s the same movement as before with all its open spaces that allow the gaze to roam freely throughout the heart of the movement and admire all the specialized finishing entirely performed by hand. This includes straight-graining the surfaces to achieve a satin-brushed finish; beveling straight lines and curves to create those elusive and much desired light effects; circular
brushing, sunburst finishing, as well as circulargraining and polishing to ensure varied reliefs. The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the mainplate, bridges and openworked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold. Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (or 2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire caseback. Aside from the aforementioned bracelet in 18K 5N pink gold, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar also comes with two additional straps: the first in a hand-stitched blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with blue nubuck lining and a micro-perforated effect, as well as a third strap in blue textured rubber. The first two straps in gold and leather are no brainers, but it’s the third strap in rubber that may be the most interesting option. It offers an eccentric and offbeat contrast to the precious metal encasing the supremely executed movement, and is definitely the sportiest of the bunch. And didn’t the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection start off as a sports line to begin with?
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FEATURE
THE
GAME-CHANGER Rolex unveils the unexpected. Words by
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Bert Casal
FEATURE
R
olex recently unveiled a GMT watch with a surprising twist. On the Oyster Perpetual GMTMaster II, the crown and crown guard are on the left side of the watch case. And if that was not enough, they also moved the date window, and the cyclops lens, to the 9 o’clock position. What does this mean? Did Rolex design this specifically for left-handed people? More than 90% of the world’s population will not understand that left-handed people have difficulty using a pair of scissors. This is because scissors are designed in such a way that when right-handed people wield it, the pressure of the thumb and finger causes the blades to move closer to one another, making it easy to cut paper. But if the same pair of scissors is used on the left hand, the blades seem to “open up” or “separate” making it difficult, if not impossible, to cut. Cameras, whether they be DSLRs or simple point-and-shoot, are designed for right-handed
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“The new Rolex GMTMaster opens up new horizons in both time telling and wearability.”
people, as evidenced by the shutter button located at the right side of the camera body. The ergonomics of a camera is designed in such a way that the right index finger is used to press the shutter button. So is this Rolex’s answer to people who prefer to wear their watches on their right wrist? It can certainly be viewed that way. Or maybe it’s their way of giving you, the wearer, more options. Personally, I wear my watch on my left wrist. That is my normal. Call it instinct, call it a reflex action, but when I am asked the time of day, I don’t reach for my phone, I raise my left arm and look at my wrist. It’s something that comes naturally to me. The advantage I see on having the crown on the left side of the watch case is that the crown will not be touching the back of my hand when I flick my wrist backwards. Aside from the extra comfort that it offers, it can also be a great conversation piece. But despite this new architecture, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II still offers the same
qualities that the brand is well known for. It is equipped with the calibre 3285, a movement that is able to present an additional time zone in a 24-hour format. It has the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus to make it insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed, patented highperformance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Suffice it to say that this calibre is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, ensuring excellent performance. Its bidirectional rotating Cerachrom bezel displays the nighttime in black while the daytime is presented in green. These monobloc Cerachrom bezels are tough, virtually scratchproof, and the colours produced by it show a rare intensity. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD. The 40 mm Oyster case is guaranteed to be water resistant to 100 meters. Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of corrosion-resistant Oystersteel. The Triplock winding crown is fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard. The case back is hermetically screwed down and can only be opened with a special tool. This new version of the GMT-Master II is fitted with an Oyster bracelet. This three-piece link bracelet remains the most universal bracelet in the Oyster Perpetual collection. It features the Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding clasp that prevents accidental opening. It is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, giving an additional 5 mm so it can be worn over a wet suit. On your left or on your right, it makes no difference. But what matters more is the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is a true tool watch that continuously evolves to suit your preference and your needs, becoming an indispensable piece in your collection.
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FEATURE
O-MEGA DEEP Omega owns the depths with titanium and O-MEGASTEEL Words by
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Kit Payumo
T
he average depth of the Arctic Ocean is 1,038 meters, or 3,407 feet deep; while the average depth of the Indian Ocean is 3,872 meters or 12,740 feet deep; the Atlantic Ocean is 3,872 meters or 12,254 feet deep; and the Pacific Ocean is 4,188 meters or 13,740 feet deep. But those are just the average depths; the deepest points in each of the Earth’s oceans tend to be much deeper. The Eurasian Basin in the Arctic Ocean is at 5,450 meters or 17,881 feet deep; the Indian Ocean’s Java Trench is at a depth of 7,725 meters or 25,344 feet; the Puerto Rico Trench in the Atlantic reaches 8,648 meters or 23,374 feet; and finally, at 11,033 meters or 36,201 feet, is the Challenger Deep, the deepest point of the fabled Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean and the deepest point of our planet. At nearly 7 miles down, if Mount Everest, the world’s tallest peak, were plunked down into the trench, there would still be approximately 2,000 meters, or 1.3 miles, of water above it. The Challenger Deep was first explored in January 23, 1960 by Swiss oceanographer and scientist Jacques Piccard and U.S. Navy Lt. Donald Walsh. They accomplished this by taking a five-hour journey in the “Trieste,” a US Navy owned bathyscaphe, which set a record of diving to a depth of 10,916 meters or 35,814 feet. And attached to the Trieste’s hull was the experimental Rolex Deep Sea Special with its 60s space-capsulelike bubble of a sapphire crystal, which reached the record depth and resurfaced in perfect working order; a feat that remained uncontested for almost 60 years. Indeed, over the years, the Mariana Trench has become the de facto location where “serious” watch companies go to test their flagship dive watches and lay claim to the title of “deepest diving watch.” In March 26, 2012, Filmmaker, Box Office King, avid deep-sea diver, and National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence, James Cameron, descended to 10,898 meters or 35,787 feet to reach the Challenger Deep piloting the DEEPSEA CHALLENGER submersible in a record-breaking solo dive. This marked the first time in 60 years that a human being had returned to the deepest part of the Mariana Trench since January 23, 1960. And strapped on the manipulator arm of the DEEPSEA CHALLENGER? Was not one, but three experimental Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Designed and developed
FEATURE
to descend to 12,000 meters or 39,370 feet with the exact same architecture as a “regular” Rolex Deepsea. However, Cameron only “managed” to take the experimental watch down to 10,898 meters. Never the less, it was still proof of concept that the monster 51mm x 28.5mm Rolex Deepsea Challenge could survive the challenge unscathed, thus, guaranteeing waterproofness at new and unprecedented depths. But while Rolex was resting on its nearly 60-year old laurels, Omega came out of the proverbial blue with a challenger in April 2019. It was called the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep,
“The civilian version Ultra Deep Professional is depth rated to an astounding 6,000 meters (7,500m if you count the 25% safety margin used during testing), and now measures a more “manageable” (if you happen to be The Rock) 45.5mm x 18.12mm.”
three “indestructible” units of which journeyed once again to the bottom of the Mariana Trench this time strapped to the Limiting Factor, Victor Vescovo’s submersible; two on its robotic arm, and another strapped to a data-gathering unit known as the Lander. Those three prototypes boasted cases completely machined out of forged Grade-5 titanium, featured robust “Manta Lugs” that provided an innovative way of securing the watches, showed off sapphire crystals with a conical loadbearing design inspired by a submersible’s viewport, and measured a whopping 55mm across and 28mm thick…each!
Thanks to their ingenious build and design, all three watches completed the 12-hour dive to record the deepest dive ever made by any human (or watch) at 10,935 meters or 35,876 feet, shattering the Rolex record by 62 feet. And did we mention that due to a technical issue experienced by the Limiting Factor one of the prototypes had to be left on the ocean floor? That’s right. And two and a half days later, it was retrieved in perfect working order having lost only 1 second of time. That’s a fact of enormous significance because three years on, any weekend warrior (that’s someone like you and me, by the way) can finally buy one. Yes, new for 2022 is the civilian version called the Omega Ultra Deep Professional, which is ISO 6425 certified via METAS, and designed for deep saturation diving without the need for a helium escape valve. This required a considerable amount of technological research and development from Omega, including four newly pending patents, the first of which is the 5.2mm thick sapphire crystal of a conical load-bearing design. It was created in a process called Edge-designed Film-fed Growth first developed by Harold LaBelle in the 1960s to create a defect free crystal. The specific location of the crystal gasket is the second pending patent, which together with the crystal forms a tight seal that prevents helium from entering the case in the first place. The load-bearing screw-in crown is the third patent, which combined with the crystal and gasket, is designed to withstand the eight tons per square inch pressure at the bottom of the Trench. Last but not least is the design of the two-piece caseback, which not only represents the fourth and final patent, but is also the last line of defense from helium or water entering the case. All these innovations were essential at ensuring the Omega Ultra Deep Professional’s extreme depth rating. Speaking of which, the civilian version Ultra Deep Professional is depth rated to an astounding 6,000 meters (7,500m if you count the 25% safety margin used during testing), and now measures a more “manageable” (if you happen to be The Rock) 45.5mm x 18.12mm. It comes in a collection of 7 models: six of which are rendered in a completely new, proprietary stainless steel alloy called O-MEGASTEEL (appropriate, no?), and a flagship model forged in sandblasted Grade-5 titanium. Of the seven, the Ultra Deep Titanium is the most faithful to the original 55mm Ultra Deep leviathan. Aside from the sandblasted Grade-5 titanium (which is black ceramised for that
ultimate tool watch feel), the production version boasts a streamlined asymmetrical case to aid in crown protection, a ceramic bezel insert with a Liquidmetal diving scale, and a titanium dial with blue Planet Ocean-style accents. Under the protuberant and domed sapphire crystal, the dial has been produced in black ceramised titanium with cyan colored numerals at the quarters and a blued gradient on the central seconds hand to provide just enough color to pop out of all that greyness; while a “Ti” engraving just below the dial’s center is subtle enough to suggest just how special this particular model is. Turn the watch over, and a Grade-5 titanium caseback featuring a black laser-engraved Sonar emblem is revealed. This is flourished with the iconic OMEGA Seahorse at its center, and the words “Divers’ watch 6000m for saturation diving” at its periphery. But the one feature that most separates the titanium version from the steel models is the distinctive “Manta Lugs,” which mimic the frontal lobes of a manta ray and makes the Ultra Deep Titanium only compatible with NATO-style straps. No metal bracelets or rubber straps need apply here. Naturally, Omega obliges with a cyan and black number made from polyamide yarn sourced from 100% recycled fishing nets. This is fixed to the wrist with a loop and buckle also forged from Grand-5 titanium. Then there are the O-MEGASTEEL versions called the Ultra Deep Steel, the six models of which are built with a brand new, high-performance stainless steel alloy that boasts superior strength, a whiter color, and an incomparable shine. O-MEGASTEEL also boasts a yield strength (which refers to the elasticity limit of metal before it begins to deform) more than twice that of 316L and 904L stainless steel, both of which would have been unsustainable for this application. O-MEGASTEEL is also 40-50% more scratch resistant to conventional stainless steel, and offers exceptional resistance to corrosion for a longer-lasting appearance. And while the Ultra Deep Steel is similarly specced with its titanium sibling, the steel models sport a beefier symmetrical case with traditional crown guards, a ceramic bezel with diving scale, as well as the aforementioned protuberant and domed sapphire crystal, which is neatly bevelled and designed for maximum strength under pressure. Three colorways are available upon launch: a blue-to-black gradient dial matched with a black bezel, and fitted with either an O-MEGASTEEL
bracelet or an integrated black structured rubber strap with cyan highlights; a white dial with a blue bezel, and fitted with either an O-MEGASTEEL bracelet or an integrated black structured rubber strap with dark blue highlights; and a grey-toblack gradient dial matched with an orange bezel and fitted with an O-MEGASTEEL bracelet. All seven Ultra Deep Professional watches are driven by the self-winding Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, which is
officially certified for precision, performance, and magnetic-resistance of 15,000 gauss by METAS, Switzerland’s premier independent testing body. We’ll leave this story with one last detail: not content with “just” laboratory testing methods, Omega actually returned to the Mariana Trench in 2021 to conduct more real world testing on the Omega Ultra Deep Professional. It mastered a depth of 6,269 meters with aplomb and resurfaced unscathed to tell the tale.
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FEATURE
The Chiming of the Bells A new minute repeater heralds a new age for A. Lange & Söhne Words by
M
aking its debut at the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, the new Richard Lange Minute Repeater is the first new minute repeater to be released by A. Lange & Söhne in the last seven years. Touted as the “absolute technical highlight” of the Geneva watch show by Anthony de Haas, director of product development at A. Lange & Söhne, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater is a case study in German classicism and understatement, and is a far (FAR) cry from the technical novelty that was the Saxon watchmaker’s last minute repeater, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater from 2015. For that watch, with its jumping digital hours and minutes, the watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne had to create an all-new kind of minute repeater that took advantage of the Zeitwerk’s mechanical jumping display mechanism; specifically the three discs utilized to indicate that display: the minutes disc, the hours disc, and most significantly, the ten minutes disc. The result was the first minute repeater in the industry that
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Kit Payumo
could chime the hours, the minutes, and the tenminute intervals (instead of the quarter-hours) called a decimal minute repeater. For 2022, A. Lange & Söhne has gone the traditional route with the new Richard Lange Minute Repeater, which was created without the extra baggage of additional complications to navigate (we’re looking at you, Zeitwerk). Further described by Anthony de Haas as, “A classical minute repeater but (made) to today’s standards,” the new watch puts the focus on a new and improved chiming mechanism and nothing else. Making the Richard Lange Minute Repeater the Saxon Manufactory’s purest iteration of a minute repeater yet. And how sweet purity can be. Operating like a “traditional” minute repeater, the chiming mechanism of the Richard Lange Minute Repeater is activated via the slider on the left case flank to strike the hours, quarter hours and the minutes on demand. More significantly, the mechanism utilizes two differently tuned gongs operated by a mechanical program capable of audibly indicating 720 different sequences of chimes (why such a
specific number? Because there are 720 minutes in every 12 hours). And like a “traditional” minute repeater, the hours are chimed at the lowest pitch, followed by the quarter hours with a double tone, and finally the minutes elapsed after the last quarter with the highest-pitched tone. The time 1:46 a.m. (or p.m.) then, would be audibly indicated with a low chime, three double chimes, and six high chimes. This is all made possible by the new manually wound calibre L122.2, which is the 69th in-house movement (you read that right: 69th) developed and released by A. Lange & Söhne since being reborn in 1990. It features a screw balance and a freely oscillating Breguet balance spring made inhouse with an overcoiled external Breguet terminal curve. It operates at the traditional frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 hertz), and boasts a power reserve of up to 72 hours. And this being an A. Lange & Söhne timepiece, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater is equipped with a number of innovations that go above and beyond the norm. Premier of which is a pause elimination feature: if the chiming mechanism
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FEATURE
is engaged anytime during the first 14 minutes of the hour (before the 1st quarter has passed) the master Saxon watchmakers have managed to eliminate the pause normally experienced between the chime of the hours, and minutes, when no double tone for the quarters is struck. The result is a continuous chiming sequence; a seemingly “small” achievement to be sure but significant for anyone with any experience using a minute repeater. Further, the Saxon watchmakers equipped the chiming mechanism with a safety device that prevents it from being activated while the crown is pulled out. Conversely, the crown cannot be pulled out when the chiming mechanism is active. Last but not least is a patented “hammer blocker,” a system that literally stops the hammers in their static positions in that fraction of a second after striking the gongs. This prevents the hammers from rebounding and inadvertently striking the gongs again. The Richard Lange Minute Repeater even displays its purity aesthetically. Indeed, the Richard Lange family of watches is known for high precision, unparalleled legibility, and putting technicity (and nothing else) at the fore. As such, the collection is permeated with somber and austere watches that happily consign extravagant decoration to its other, more “elaborate” in-house collections. The Richard Lange Minute Repeater is no exception. So imbued is the new watch with Richard Lange collection design codes, in fact, that it can be mistaken for a Richard Lange “Pour Le Mérite” time-only model. The Richard Lange Minute Repeater, then, is the paragon of sobriety and restraint with a conservative 39mm case, and a height of only 9.7mm made of (wait for it) 950 platinum, an extra dense, extra soft, and supremely ductile metal that’s known for absorbing sound rather than proliferating it. Its successful use here only speaks of the Manufacture’s expected mastery of one of the most traditionally challenging complications in the industry. And reflecting its status as a Richard Lange model, the case of the new watch has short domed lugs and polished and satin-brushed finishes. One caveat though: despite its unobtrusive proportions the heft of platinum will undoubtedly be perceived when wearing the watch. The in-house crafted white enamel dial with a solid-gold core is outstanding as well. It is made of three separate parts: an outer ring, middle part, and subsidiary seconds dial that were hand-
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crafted individually in an elaborate process before being joined together. Indeed, the white enamel assures a crisp contrast for the thermally blued steel hands, as well as the printed inscriptions burned onto the surface, which include the slender Roman numerals typical of the watch family, and the peripheral railway track minute scale. Of particular note, is the fine red line above the “XII” that adds a subtle color accent to the dial, and how the subsidiary seconds dial at six o’clock is placed, expertly truncating the “VI” and “VII” Roman numerals. Turn the watch over, and the sapphire crystal caseback reveals what A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers do best. Indeed, the artisanal finissage of the manually wound movement is extraordinary and includes the freehand engraving of the balance cock with its eye-catching whiplash spring, which with its lateral setscrew can be used to precisely adjust the interaction between the pallet lever and
escapement, also known as the “beat.” Further, the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver is decorated with Glashütte ribbing, and set in polished gold chatons, four of which are secured with thermally blued screws. The partially visible chiming mechanism features elaborately finished manually bent gongs, and hammers that are mirror-finished with black polish. All the bridges of the chiming mechanism are visually paired with solarization, while the bridge above the centrifugal governor is skeletonized, the generous openings of which reveal the most dynamic component of the movement: balanced with two mirror-polished gold weights, the centrifugal governor rotates at a speed of more than 2,000 revolutions per minute when the striking mechanism is running, thereby guaranteeing the uniform cadence of the strikes. Finally, since the watch is part of the Richard Lange family of watches, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater is designed to the highest acoustic quality
standards. It’s tuning, in fact, was akin to that of an exquisite musical instrument. Therefore, a lucid, clear, and reverberant sound is assured by the hand-tuned gongs that harmonize perfectly with the acoustic characteristics of platinum, a case material that as previously mentioned is traditionally the bane of minute repeaters. Indeed, a single Lange master watchmaker, who in this case, also doubled as a key harmonics expert, carefully harmonized all the components including the gongs and hammers with one another. This required multiple disassemblies, reworking, reassembly, and finally testing, all in pursuit of finding the perfect sound. The result heralds a new chapter in sound for A. Lange & Söhne. The Richard Lange Minute Repeater is fitted with a hand-stitched black leather strap with a deployant buckle also in 950 platinum, and is most significantly, a boutique exclusive limited edition of only 50 pieces, each of which is endowed with an engraving of its limited edition number.
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The Black Bay Pro Discover its new and unique aesthetic details. Words by
Bert Casal
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he Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic “Snowflake” hands from models that appeared in 1969. The crown is left “unprotected” to stay true to its heritage, and to remind the wearer of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches. This year, TUDOR presents the Black Bay Pro, a new technical model with a whole new aesthetic. Its details celebrate the spirit of the technical watches that the brand has produced for professionals throughout its history. TUDOR has been the watch of choice by some of the world’s boldest adventurers, like the thirty explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition 70 years ago, to study the Arctic ice. They were each supplied with a TUDOR watch. Hans Wilsdorf, the watch brand’s founder, had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch. He believed that the extreme climate of the Arctic would be the best environment to test his watches. The new Black Bay Pro is introduced with new and unique details, starting with the winding crown. It has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Another new feature is the applied hour markers on the dial. They are made from monobloc luminous ceramic. This feature increases the luminous surface of the hour markers, making them easier to read. Thirdly, the bracelet comes with a new clasp, the TUDOR “T-fit” rapid size adjustment system. This system offers five positions, allowing the wearer to instantly adjust the bracelet to fit snugly, offering a leeway of up to 8 mm. The Black Bay Pro’s engine is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with a built-in GMT function. It was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro specifically. Its architecture is capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements, rather than resorting to additional modules. It is designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability, and precision. Although this Calibre is a certified chronometer by the COSC, it goes beyond the standards set by this independent institute (which require an average variation of -4 and +6 seconds) by improving its precision to -2 and +4 seconds variation in its
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“The Black Bay Pro is a compact, robust, and sporty model that boasts new aesthetics.”
running when it is completely assembled. And with a power reserve of 70 hours, the watch can be taken off on Friday evening and worn Monday morning without having to wind it up. This new GMT model has four central hands: one to indicate the hour, another to point to the minutes, a third that sweeps the seconds, and the fourth, yellow hand to display another time in a different time zone. The indications of the fourth hand is found on the fixed steel bezel. When you unscrew the crown and pull it out to the first position, the first thing you will notice is that the second hand will not stop moving. At this crown position, you can adjust the short hand in 1-hour increments, forwards and backwards,
a useful feature when crossing time zones. To adjust the date, you simply must turn the hour hand twenty-four hours forwards or backwards. Take note that the GMT hand will not be affected when turning the crown in the first position. Pulling the crown out to the second position will allow you to adjust the minutes. At this crown position, the GMT hand will be affected by your adjustments. Take note that you can also adjust the time forwards and backwards without damaging the movement. The Black Bay Pro comes in a riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous
for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that holds the links together. You can also opt to have it in a hybrid rubber and fabric strap with a steel folding clasp and safety catch. Or you can go for the fabric strap, woven in France using a traditional 19th century method using Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the StEtienne region. It is a black strap with a yellow band woven at the centre. TUDOR has been creating watches that are robust, durable, reliable, and precise. Based on these qualities, TUDOR is confident in offering a five-year guarantee for all its products. The watch need not be registered to avail of this guarantee, and it is transferable.
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Blue Shadow Panerai powers on with BRABUS for another limited edition timepiece Words by
Kit Payumo
C
oming off the success of last year’s Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Black Ops Edition, which took its cues from the aggressive BRABUS’ ultramodern Shadow Black Ops line of sport boats, Panerai and high-end automotive and boating aftermarket tuner, BRABUS, is continuing their dynamic and avant-garde collaboration with another powerhouse timepiece, and to differentiate it from the first full Carbotech limited edition, Panerai and BRABUS have set their sights on a decidedly different type of watercraft albeit also from the Shadow series. Going the more luxurious route for their second limited edition, the new Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition has taken its inspiration from a luxury day boat with a dark navy hull and blue carbon accents called the BRABUS Shadow 900 Deep Blue, which is making its debut at the 2022 Palma International Boat Show accompanied by the Panerai 200-piece limited edition timepiece. But don’t get us wrong, the new Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition still draws its inspiration from the signature design cues of the BRABUS Shadow series of boats. Which is why both watches are physically and technically similar. But unlike the first Black Ops Edition, which went the full Carbotech route, the new Blue Shadow Edition sports a new 47mm titanium
case with only the unidirectional rotating bezel and signature crown protector lever made in Carbotech, that distinctly striped, carbon fiber-based material that has quickly become synonymous with the watchmaker, and which gives each watch a unique character. The former was shaped by a completely novel manufacturing process called Direct Metal Laser Sintering, a new method of 3D printing technology that produces volumes that are both strong and lightweight (that’s right: 3D printing, which, believe it or not isn’t confined to just
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plastic), and involves sintering (not melting) fine 20-40 micrometer wide metallic powder; a process that fuses the particles together to create pieces that are more porous than pieces created by the melting method (thus, the lighter weight). Simply add layer upon layer of the powder and continue the sintering process until the final shape is formed. This allows the printing of alloys containing materials with different melting points, and even allows the combination of metal and plastic materials. Further differentiating the new watch is the convergence of blue and grey tones (as opposed to the red tones of the Black Ops Edition). This adds cool highlights to the dial of the Blue Shadow Edition, which includes the tips of the skeletonized main time indicating hands; the hour indexes; the bezel lume pip; and the rehaut are all in the same light shade of blue; while the hour, minute and seconds hands are swathed in light blue Super-LumiNova. But what does make a comeback is the skeletonized version of the calibre P.4001, called P.4001/S that made its debut in the Black Ops Edition. This makes the Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition the second self-winding skeleton watch made by the Italian watchmaker. The product of three years of development, the P.4001/S caliber includes a GMT function, an AM/PM indicator and three-day power reserve and features a one-piece off-centered oscillating weight that allows for bi-directional winding; a tungsten oscillating rotor, a shiny, high density metal that results in a much thinner movement, and therefore a much thinner and lighter watch; as well as a stop balance wheel, and seconds reset
devices that allows the time to be synchronized with a reference time signal. The patented polarized date display, which offers a view of the date indication only through the opening at 3 o’clock without revealing the rest of the date wheel or concealing the workings of the movement also makes a welcome return, as well as the day/night indicator at 9 o’clock, and the multi-spoke, steering wheel-shaped bridge with the BRABUS logo at 7 o’clock. Further, the power-reserve indicator with
its clear rotating disc and fixed pointer as the indicator can once again be found on the caseback. Like the rest of the watch it now features blue details with a red colored "0" making it a nice counterpoint to the polarized date window out at front. Water-resistant to 300 meters (30 bar) the Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition is a limited edition of only 200 pieces, and features two straps, a bi-material option combining black rubber and leather, and a second in deep blue rubber.
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Beauty in Lines, Beauty in Light Inspired by the sun(dial) Words by
L
Katherine Cunanan
ight has always been fascinating. Light, or illumination, can be interpreted in many different ways. When discussing a concept, you shine light on something important. When uncovering something previously hidden, you bring it into the light. Certain professions focus on the light and the effect it has, too. Photographers aim for the ‘golden hour’ when the sun’s light is perfectly balanced: bright enough to enhance, but gentle enough not to blind. Actors are told to find their light on the stage and be sure they settle into it, so the passion and emotion they feel can be properly appreciated by the audience. And light has helped man mark the passage of time, too. Sunrises and sunsets marked the day for man in the beginning. When civilizations evolved, man needed a more defined sense of
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time. The creation of the gnomon can be tracked back to 3500 BC, some scholars say, and it was a pillar on a flat plane that allowed a shadow to fall. The length of the shadow gave you an idea of how much time had passed (or the concept of time at that, well, time). By 8th century BC, a more precise device was in use, the sundial (again, more precise at that time). The sundial had a little more sophistication to it, with the focus not only on a shadow, but on the shadow relative to the dial drawn around it. Where the shadow fell gave you the time. Sundials were initially crudely created instruments but slowly evolved into more sophisticated pieces of equipment. Trust me when I say someone back in the day probably saw it and thought, it works but I can make it work AND look more aesthetically pleasing. So the classic sundial was created — clean lines, even spaces, a meticulous person’s dream.
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And is that piece of organized perfection that Bvlgari has recreated on their latest offering, the Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio. The humble, but massively important, sundial has been the inspiration for the Lvcea watches. The classic round shape echoes the sundial shape, and through the years, the Lvcea models have been ideal watches. The classic shape allows for various artisan skills to be showcased. For this year, Bvlgari has chosen specific artistic skills to showcase on the new Lvcea models for the LVMH Watch Week 2022. As the name implies, the focus is on the light (lucea) and the intricate pattern on the dial, called intarsio.
TO MARQUET, TO MARQUET Marquetry is a skill typically associated with woodworking. The decorative technique is timeconsuming as it involves various types and colors of wood painstakingly chosen, refined, and lain out in an intricate design. Care has to be taken with each step because too much pressure or the following wrong angle can cause the pieces to break apart. While working with wood is already challenging, the master artisans at Bvlgari take it a step further by using this technique on aventurine and on mother-of-pearl. Aventurine is translucent quartz or quartzite gemstone and comes in various colors ranging from green to blue, but also occurs in orange, red, white, and gray. Mother-of-pearl is the beautiful lustrous interior shell of a mollusk and also ranges in color from gray to blue to white and pink. Both aventurine and mother-of-pearl are created in nature, so each piece is unique. Working with aventurine and mother-of-pearl will complicate the marquetry process further, since each material is even more delicate. Marquetry involves refining the cut pieces and such a fine dust is created when working with aventurine and mother-of-pearl that artisans need special safety equipment. All that hard work and dedication has paid off, and the resulting Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio watches are beautiful. Lucky for us, Bvlgari has four models for us to choose from, in two different sizes. Each watch also has a cabochon-cut rubellite and diamond on the crown. Two watch models have the darker palette while two watch models have the lighter palette. Why two color palettes, you ask? That is Bvlgari’s homage to the city of its heart, Rome: blue and pink are meant to reflect the colors of the sky. The blue models are bold and confident, while the pink models are feminine and delicate.
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⊳ LVCEA INTARSIO AVENTURINE 33MM Ref. 103620 ▼ LVCEA INTARSIO AVENTURINE 28MM Ref. 103617
BLUE IS THE SKY The Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Aventurine in 28 mm (ref. no. 103617) has a polished steel case and the aventurine dial with 12 diamond hour markers. The lugs are diamond set, and nicely pair with the blue alligator leather strap. This model has a quartz movement for the hours and minutes. There are 33 diamonds on this model, coming to 0.42 carats. The Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Aventurine in 33 mm (ref. no. 103620) also has a polished steel case but is paired with a diamond-set bezel and eleven hour markers. The date window at 3 o’clock takes the place of the missing hour marker. The calibre B77, a mechanical selfwinding movement, for the hours, minutes, seconds, and date. The extra real estate on the larger model is appreciated. This model has 55 diamonds, bringing the carat count to approximately 1.40.
PINK IS THE SKY
▲ LVCEA INTARSIO PINK MOTHER-OF-PEARL 33MM Ref .103618 ⊳ LVCEA INTARSIO PINK MOTHER-OF-PEARL 28MM Ref. 103619
The Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Pink Mother-of-Pearl in 28 mm (ref. no. 103619) has a polished steel case and the pink mother-of-pearl dial with 12 diamond hour markers. The lugs are diamond set, and the red alligator leather strap adds to the rosy color of the entire watch. This model has a quartz movement for the hours and minutes. Like the Aventurine in this size, there are 33 diamonds on this model, also coming to 0.42 carats. The Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio Pink Motherof-Pearl in 33 mm (ref. no. 103618) also has a polished steel case and is also paired with a diamond-set bezel and eleven hour markers. The date window is at 3 o’clock too. The watch has a mechanical self-winding movement, for the hours, minutes, seconds, and date. This model has 55 diamonds, bringing the carat count to approximately 1.40. The slightly larger model will sit better on some wrists.
BASK IN THE LIGHT The Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio brings together the classic round watch shape, the homage to the sundial, and two new color palettes. Bask in the light of perfectly executed skill and artisanship with the Bvlgari Lvcea Intarsio.
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Ceratanium and black ceramic joins the formation. Words by
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Bert Casal
ALL G
GEARED UP
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arlier this year, the 2022 edition of Watches and Wonders opened in Geneva. On this occasion, IWC launched the latest addition to the Pilot’s Watches collection. These watches are presented in Ceratanium® and in black ceramic. The first watch is the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium®, the first 41-millimeter chronograph in this collection in full Ceratanium®. It may be assumed that the material Ceratanium® is a combination of ceramic and titanium. But the truth is: it is not. Ceratanium® is a material engineered by IWC that has the hardness and scratch-resistance similar to that of ceramic, and the lightness and robustness of titanium. To create this material, IWC engineers start off by crafting the case with titanium then sandblasting it. The case is then placed in an oven and heated to a specific temperature for a very specific amount of time. This combination of
thermal heating and exposure time produces that black color that you see in the final product. It is also this process that gives the case its ceramic quality. This product is then taken to the assembly line. The pushers and crown of this watch are manufactured in the same process. The 41.1 mm case has a height of 14.5 mm and is water resistant to 100 meters. Encased within is the IWC-manufactured 69385 calibre, an automatic winding movement that beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 46 hours. This is a highly robust, reliable, and precise chronograph movement with a column wheel design. The black dial hosts three sub dials placed at the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The sapphire glass has anti-reflective coating on both sides to provide better legibility. To complete the all-black theme, it is paired with a black rubber strap with a textile inlay and fastened with a Ceratanium® pin buckle. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 TOP GUN features a case made of black zirconium oxide ceramic.
The ceramic used for the case offers maximum protection against scratches and it offers a water resistance of 100 meters. This timepiece is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82100 calibre movement. The Pellaton winding system has been fitted with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic, builds up a power reserve of 60 hours, and has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement is protected by a soft iron inner case to repel magnetic forces that may interfere with its precision. As a pilot watch, it may be subjected to sudden changes in air pressure. When this happens, the front glass may pop out. To prevent this, the glass is secured in place. This watch comes with a green textile strap that is equipped with the EasX-CHANGE® system, allowing the owner to effortlessly change the strap. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Ceratanium® and the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 TOP GUN are both eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefiting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.
“IWC Schaffhausen launches two new Top Gun models in its Pilot's Watches collection.”
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DEEPER IN BLUE Jaeger-LeCoultre brings new depth to the Master Control Words by
Kit Payumo
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he Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control collection’s raison d’être is that it is the ultimate representation of the Maison’s greatest commitment to the very highest levels of watchmaking excellence. Which is why it was the first collection chosen to undergo the brand’s pioneering in-house 1000-hour control certification, thus, becoming the Master Control collection. As such, the collection was pervaded with somber, albeit highly technical timepieces that were not short on horological benchmarks but (for some) were (somewhat) lacking in charm and allure. It’s been 30 years since the Master Control’s launch and while the rigorous testing is still significant today, it has since become the norm for ALL Jaeger-LeCoultre watches. So, to demonstrate that the Maison is still at the forefront of 21st century horological craft, Jaeger-LeCoultre has (in a way) acquiesced by allowing a (shall we say) softer side of the Master Control to come to the
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fore. Thus, the collection has been “enriched” with new limited editions of the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar, both of which are now deepened with charming and alluring dials in fascinating shades of blue. And what a difference a new dial can make. At once both the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar exhibit new personas: what was once subdued is now refreshing, and what was once formal and classic is now relaxed, and contemporary! Indeed, all the essential elements that make up the Master Control collection can still be found in the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar. These include the combination of applied Arabic numerals with faceted dart markers for the hours, faceted dauphine hour and minute hands, and in line with aesthetic upgrades conducted on the Master Control collection in 2020: the slimmer, sloping case bezels and the more pronounced curve of the bevelled lugs. These bring an open feel to the 40mm cases, and allow the watch to sit closer on
the wrist, respectively. Nothing extraordinarily new here to be sure, but somehow enhanced as if given a new lease on life. Indeed, the limited edition pair is more than just the sum of their enriched sunray-brushed dials. Both watches are better now and it wasn’t JUST because of a change in dial color. As always, God is in the details, and its in the details that make both the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar better than they were before. Specifically, legibility and readability have been improved and believe it or not, it had a lot to do with the shade of blue…different shades of blue to be more precise. The minute scales on both watches, for example, are rendered in a subtly contrasting lighter shade of blue from the rest of the dial. And when combined with distinct minute divisions intercut with dot markers in Super-LumiNova it makes for an intuitive, and more precise indication of the time. Further, the calendar windows on both watches reveal discs rendered in the same shade of blue as the dial,
making for a seamless transition from dial to calendar window. The date ring of the Master Control Calendar is also rendered in a different shade of blue, which is contrasted by white transferred Arabic numerals. Indeed, these contrasting day and month indications not only provide seamless aesthetic integration with the rest of the watch, but also enhance legibility by allowing the indications to pop out. Additional visual refinement can also be found in the snailed finish of the small seconds subdial, the upper half of which reveals the moon phase disc decorated with a star-studded background. Historically a movement supplier to many of the most significant watchmakers in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre has manufactured many of the most groundbreaking watch movements in the business. In fact, the Maison is home to some of the industry’s most diverse collection of movements, many of which are amongst the thinnest in their category. Obviously, the Master
“What a difference a new dial can make. At once both the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar exhibit new personas: what was once subdued is now refreshing, and what was once formal and classic is now relaxed, and contemporary!”
Control collection is the premier beneficiary of this and the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar is no exception. The Master Control Date, for example, is one of the thinnest in its category with a case that is just 8.78mm thick. This is courtesy of the calibre 899, which drives one of the most elegant time and date watches anywhere. Of the two limited edition watches, the Master Control Date is undoubtedly the more straightforward with its simplicity and styling working phenomenally with the slim case. And while it may be true that there is no shortage of “elegant” watches with blue dials out there, there is just something about how the applied Arabic numerals, faceted dart hour markers, and faceted dauphine hands combine with the blue sunray-brushed dial that is just the business. Don’t get us wrong though, the Master Control Calendar is outstanding as well. Powered by the in-house calibre 866, the Calendar is the more complicated of the two, which is evidenced by its busier dial and increased thickness at 10.95mm. The Maison, however, executes these “deficiencies” with aplomb making the Master Control Calendar one of the finest examples of a QUANTIEME à DATE SAUTANTE in the industry. On the dial, the jumping date indication makes a welcome reappearance on the Master Control Calendar, which now features a jumping function not found on the previous model. As before, the slender date hand ending in a redlacquered Jaeger-LeCoultre logograph extends outwards from the center towards the date on the outer periphery of the dial. But on this new blue sunray-brushed dial version, detail oriented observers would have noticed a large gap between the 15th and 16th day of the month. This is because the date hand now makes a 90° jump between the two dates to facilitate the optimal reading of the dual-display moon phase and small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. This means the date hand never obscures the subdial, and the starry night moon phase can be seen in all its glory all the time. Both the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar boast 70 hours of power reserve making both watches “week-end proof” with almost three days of autonomy. Both are fitted with matching blue calf leather straps trimmed in complementary blue stitching that feature a quick-change mechanism for easy switching. And, last but not least, both the Master Control Date, and the Master Control Calendar are limited editions of only 800 pieces each.
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ALPHA MALE TAG Heuer revolutionizes the men’s sports watch with Diamant d’Avant-Garde technology Words by
A
ccording to ScienceDirect.com, a website that reports on the latest in scientific, technical, and medical research, Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) is, “a process in which the substrate is exposed to one or more volatile precursors, which react and/or decompose on the substrate surface to produce the desired thin film deposit.” And if that description was just a tad too technical for most tastes, then maybe we should allow TAG Heuer itself to explain: According to Edouard Mignon, Chief Innovation Officer of the TAG Heuer & LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division, “Chemical vapor deposition technology, which we refer to as ‘Diamant d’Avant-Garde’ at TAG Heuer, enables us to explore the versatility of carbon in the form of lab-grown diamonds – to create a stunning timepiece where diamonds are used in very unique shapes and textures. Lab-grown diamonds allow us to innovate and experiment with this exceptional material, and this opens up a new realm of possibilities for designers, watchmakers and engineers.”
Kit Payumo
Got that? A revolutionary new technique that enabled the watchmaker, “To explore the versatility of carbon in the form of lab-grown diamonds.” That’s right: lab-grown diamonds. This means the diamonds were created at an industrial laboratory without the baggage of the words "blood" or "conflict" attached to it. And by carefully adding the cutting-edge possibilities of these type of diamonds, TAG Heuer has opened up an entirely different level of creative freedom and possibility. Indeed, with the creative potential of creating different diamond shapes, as well as the implementation of different design techniques, TAG Heuer is in the unique position to offer something that the often-jaded consumer has never seen before. To think, just about a decade ago the watchmaker began the long and arduous process of winding down its research and development of mechanically complicated “high-end” watches to expressly focus on their more “accessible” entry to mid-entry models. That corporate decision was not without its inevitable consequences
and resulted in, shall we say, “shake-ups” that the entire industry took notice of. The result, however, was a new and revitalized TAG Heuer that began offering an entire gamut of solid, well-thought-out products that are definitely within everyone’s reach. Today, the brand’s core collection consists of three iconic collections: TAG Heuer Carrera, Monaco and Autavia; and is rounded out with the contemporary Link, Aquaracer, Formula 1 and Connected lines. Which is why it was a bit of a surprise when we thought TAG Heuer was back to its old tricks at the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022. Fortunately, this turned out not to be the case, because the “trick” was not a new out-of-thisworld watch creation akin to those made by TAG Heuer of old, but a one-off, “experimental” version of one of its most iconic, working-man models: the TAG Heuer Carrera. And it wasn’t just any TAG Heuer Carrera but one made from ceramic, aluminum, and various forms of (you guessed it) lab-grown diamonds called the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma
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Tourbillon Nanograph, a one-of-a-kind, avantgarde, diamond-encrusted sports watch created by the watchmaker to be used and admired by men. Indeed, this piecé unique features not only a new aluminum case studded with diamonds designed and set in a new manufacturing process, but also a special polycrystalline diamond dial, which is undeniably the highlight of this new TAG Heuer timepiece. Best of all, the Carrera case was already highly faceted to begin with so adapting the specificallycut lab-grown diamonds to perfectly complement those sharp edges was a no-brainer. Indeed, this process could never be done with naturally occurring diamonds simply because the shape of the diamonds could never be completely controlled. With the Carrera Plasma, the watchmakers could embed the deliberately shaped diamonds to follow the bezels of the case perfectly. The result is nothing short of fascinating, especially when the 44mm case is made of sandblasted aluminum, a lightweight material chosen for its ability to be realized in a very deep and dark shade of black, a color that allows the facets and finish of the industrially created diamonds to really shine through. The same goes for the polished bezel, which is made of scratchresistant black ceramic, a very specific choice to complement the light effects of the lab-grown diamonds.. To think we haven’t even touched on the dial yet. Speaking of which, the TAG Heuer watchmakers engineered a polycrystalline diamond plate, a single piece of lab-grown diamond totaling 3.9 ct to cover the rhodiumplated brass dial base of the new Carrera Plasma. This one-piece diamond plate is made of crystals grown as one piece and is an excellent example of one-diamond morphology. In fact, with its spectacular reflections and light effects, this single piece has the same effect as multiple natural diamonds; while its shape and size is proof of concept of the newly unlocked potential of CVD technology, the ‘diamant d’avant-garde’ applications of which can potentially open new advancements in horological design and engineering. Further, the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock are each made of a single piece of labgrown diamonds, and consists of a contrasting black polycrystalline diamond plate equipped with a polished rhodium-plated hand to get the most of the glittering light effects. The 11 indexes in white gold are also set with a labgrown diamond each and sport a double index
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at 12 o’clock; while the polished, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with matte black lacquer are topped with white Super-LumiNova, and showcase a rhodium-plated central hand. The TAG Heuer logo with “Carrera” printed in black rounds up this sparkling dial, which is designed in perfect harmony with the rhodium-plated bezel. And as if all that wasn’t enough, the avantgarde-innovation didn’t stop there. The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph also features a completely unique crown…made entirely of diamond. Designed and created in conjunction with Capsol, a new start-up pioneering in the field of diamond design, the spectacular crown at 3 o’clock is also borne of
CVD technology, and is made of a single labgrown diamond totaling 2.5 ct. Indeed, the combination of technical aspects combined with CVA technology is definitely visually arresting, especially when the movement powering the new Carrera Plasma is concerned. And while not a single diamond can be found in the impressive TAG Heuer Nanograph movement, the calibre does feature the groundbreaking in-house hairspring. Developed by the TAG Heuer Institute and brought to life by the same CVD technology as the lab-grown diamonds, the carbon hairspring delivers exceptional levels of anti-magnetism, shock resistance, and stability across a wide
“TAG Heuer is in the unique position to offer something that the often-jaded consumer has never seen before”
temperature range; while its refined geometry is especially geared for excellent chronometric performance. And while the use of CVD technology represents the mastery of carbon in and outside the timepiece, it also represents the fusion and integration of carbon throughout the watch, thus showcasing the material in all of its forms within the avant-garde TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma. The HEUER02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, and operates at 4Hz, while boasting a 65-hour power reserve. It features the time with a 12-hour chronograph courtesy of a bi-compax, or should we say tri-compax chronograph layout: elapsed hours at 9 o’clock, and elapsed minutes at 3 o’clock. The running seconds, on the other hand, can be found where the third register is supposed to be: on the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which it shares double duty with. “Innovation and redefining frontiers is in our DNA.With the introduction of the TAG
Heuer Carrera Plasma, we want to expand the possible palette and designs for diamond watches and diamonds in general, and create a new and breathtaking vision of mastering carbon and diamond design as well as cutting-edge light effects.” — Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer. As mentioned before, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph is a one-of-a-kind concept. It also isn’t for everyone. However, there is no denying the design tour de force on display here and even if diamonds are not for every man, one cannot help but admire the time and effort that went into the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. And while it isn’t available for public consumption (at least, not yet), Frédéric Arnault has been quoted as saying that, “More than one, but less than a dozen” will be made. And while you’re contemplating on that, contemplate on this: right now one of those “less than a dozen” TAG Heuer Carrera Plasmas is priced at a whopping CHF350,000.00, each.
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FEATURE
Goandfor Gold then some Words by
Katherine Cunanan
H
ow do you improve on a watch so successful it won a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 prize? You go for gold. In this (watch) case, Zenith is making the sporty chronograph even more appealing. They’re keeping what works and throwing in a little more color. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport first caught our attention in 2021. It was sporty, handsome, and felt good on the wrist. The overlapping subdials in different colors was a fan-favorite aspect, and with the black ceramic bezel, the whole look was powerful without being overbearing. It seems others felt the same way, as during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport brought home the Chronograph Watch Prize. We described the watch back then as sleek and strong, with a coolto-the-eye color palette.
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Building on that success, Zenith CEO Julien Tornare said, “In just one year, the Chronomaster Sport has catapulted into becoming one of the most sought-after modern chronograph watches, as well as a significant pillar for Zenith that brings together our unique know-how in high-frequency chronographs with a distinctive aesthetic direction. Today, we’re pleased to expand the collection with new versions and materials that bring another dimension to the Chronomaster Sport."
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FEATURE
IF IT AIN’T BROKE As watch lovers know, and watch newbies will learn, a chronograph is a watch that has a stopwatch feature built into it. The pushers on the side, usually flanking the crown, are a telltale sign that the watch is a chronograph. The three subdials do more than just add visual detail, they are integral to the chronograph function. Each subdial provides relevant information. In this case, the subdial at the 9 is for the small seconds; the 60-minute counter is at the 6; and the 60-second counter is at the 3. For the Chronomaster Sport, the subdials are even more interesting because each one had a distinct color — grey, anthracite (or dark grey, almost black), and blue. Some features on this new watch are also familiar. Take the date window, for example. Even back in early 2021, we noted how the date window matched the dial color. These new models stay true to that and honestly, the design is so clean that you might miss seeing the date window at first (it’s tucked in at 4:30). Besides, you’re likely to be focused on the three subdials anyway. The tricolor is really eye-catching. If you feel like having little more multicolor on your wrist, then the only two-tone Chronomaster Sport here (reference 51.3100.3600/69.M3100) is for you. The pairing of the stainless steel and 18k rose gold is a little more showy, but it is a nice look. The silver-toned sunray patterned dial is a more sedate backdrop to the tricolor subdials. The gold bezel and pushers round out this look. Another interesting and somewhat familiar aspect is the bracelet. Back in 2021, there were more options available, but this year Zenith has chosen to focus on the 3-link metal bracelet. Good call, in my opinion, as the 3-link is a cleaner look than a 5-link style, and the metal creates a seamless aesthetic that allows the eye to focus on the dial (and those gorgeous subdials; can you tell I like them?). The Chronomaster Sport with the black dial (reference 18.3101.3600/21.M3100) is imposing but in a very good way. The black lacquered dial seems to suggest strength and power, especially as paired with the 18k rose gold. Rose gold and black are a classic and formidable combination. Adding interest to this powerful watch is the bracelet in rose gold with two different finishes.
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CHRONOMASTER SPORT 51.3100.3600/69.M3100
CHRONOMASTER SPORT 18.3101.3600/21.M3100
CHRONOMASTER SPORT 18.3101.3600/69.M3100
CHRONOMASTER SPORT BOUTIQUE EDITION 03.3103.3600/69.M3100
A LITTLE SOMETHING NEW Three of the four watches here are have the El Primero 3600 automatic movement. One Chronomaster Sport model (reference no. 18.3101.3600/69.M3100), the rose gold with a white dial, has the El Primero 3604 automatic movement. Both the 3600 and the 3604 movements are in-house, and are able to measure and display 1/10th of a second. The matte white dial of the Chronomaster Sport here seems a little stark, but the warmth of the rose gold evens it all out. All models have Zenith and Chronomaster Sport on the dial along with the Zenith star logo, right beneath the 12. The cases are 41 mm in diameter, resting right in the middle of the men’s watch size range. The 41 mm might be a tad large in case a lady were to borrow one of these Chronomaster Sports.
“...the Chronomaster Sport has catapulted into becoming one of the most sought-after modern chronograph watches.” WORTH IT And if I were to borrow one, it would definitely be the Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition (reference 03.3103.3600/69.M3100). Ironically this ‘go for gold’ plan resulted in a showstopping watch that has no gold. Remember the watch from 2021 with the black bezel? Perhaps that was an inspiration point for this model.
The Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition is stainless steel, with a tricolor ceramic bezel. Yes, another point of tricolor interest is on this watch: the bezel echoes the colors of the three subdials, and goes smoothly with the silver-toned sunray-patterned dial. It is pure perfection and synergy. The watch is flawless for the gents; for the ladies who decide to borrow it or purchase it for themselves, it might be a bit heavy on the wrist, since ladies watches are usually smaller, but it will be worth it.
LET’S WAIT AND SEE Will these new models of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport be award-winning as well? There’s a good chance, but we’ll have to see what the watch gods and goddesses decide. With or without an award, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is worthy of the gold.
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FEATURE
Long Distance Voyager Travel the world, the Hermès way Words by
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Kit Payumo
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L
et’s just get this out of the way: the new Hermès Arceau Le Temp Voyageur is an Hermès timepiece through and through. As such, it delivers its intended functions in the most enchanting manner possible. Indeed, Hermès is a Maison known for creating “objects” that transcend the monotony of everyday life. They do this as only the French are capable of doing by creating objects that stem from uncompromising expertise, while still radiating “a lightness of the unexpected.” These objects are true companions for those who wear them, and while they are functional, they are not necessarily designed to be practical because, well, that would miss the point entirely. Instead, Hermès goes out of its way to make everyday life a playground, imbuing each moment, and each INSTANT with unexpected delight designed to live forever in your memory. For Hermès, time is simply another venue for whimsy,
and rather than simply measuring it, Hermès dares to explore other avenues of expressing it. Indeed, much like the rest of their “objects” Hermès time is designed to arouse emotions, and open up interludes to create “spaces of spontaneity and recreation.” No easy task then, although, to be fair, the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur is probably the most practical of all the Maison’s most whimsical creations, and may we say: they’ve come out with another winner. According to Laurent Dordet, CEO of La Montre Hermès, “We seek to share with our customers and friends, a qualitative time rather than quantitative time.Which means that, of course, we target to create reliable and technical watches, but our watches must evoke fantasy, humor and nearness. And this complication that we have just unveiled, which is called Arceau Le temps voyageur — ‘traveling time’ — will address exactly how Hermès thinks about time, specifically conveying the idea of time and travel, as it stands for Hermès.”
And what stands for Hermès is something definitely “out of the box.” Which makes it all the more astounding that the origins of Hermès are deeply rooted in the world championship horses. That’s right, the Maison started life in 1837 as a producer of harnesses and saddles in Paris. This is why equestrian motifs have always played a major role in Hermès’ designs. This is no less evident that in the distinctive lines of the Arceau watch, which was designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978. The very essence of “Hermès style,” the Arceau watch is distinguished by its upper horseshoe-shaped attachments and dial marked by distinctively slanted, or ‘galloping’ Arabic numerals. “We started this project three years ago, just about the time we launched the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Models,” says Philippe Delhotal, Artistic Director of La Montre Hermès. “And this new watch today is an invitation to travel. It is really a way for us to pay tribute to the importance that travel holds within RMS Hermès.
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FEATURE
“We could say that this (is) a new expression of the World Time, an alternate technical and aesthetic take on the complication. The starting point for us was really to consider how we can display time in motion. We wanted to have an interpretation, which runs a bit counter to what you see in the industry. So we really pushed ourselves to take this horological challenge and take it on with a sense of playfulness that takes us around the globe.” Safe to say, then, that the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur is not exactly a GMT, nor is it a World Timer, but something in between. Safe to say, as well, that in the hands of the master craftsmen of Hermès the Voyageur is a travel watch like no other. Nestled squarely within the round Arceau case is a subdial or “satellite” that indicates the local hours and minutes. This satellite hovers over a fictitious and imaginary equestrian world map with landmasses named after equestrian terms such as “Éthologie Equine,” “Dressage,” or “Soins,” etc., the design of which was originally implemented by Jérôme Colliard on a giant globe for the 2016 Saut Hermès showjumping competition in Paris, and later re-interpreted by Colliard for the Hermès “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” silk scarf. The world is surrounded by a city ring, which like traditional world timers lists 24 major cities each representing one of the 24 major time zones. Further, the city ring is asymmetrical, and positioned below center of the dial to make way for an arched aperture at 12 o’clock that displays home time on a 24-hour scale. This eliminates the need for a day and night indicator. So far so well and good, but what truly sets the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur apart from “regular” GMTs or world timers is the way the time for each city or timezone on the ring is indicated. Because for Hermès “traveling time” is quite literal and the poetic manner in which the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur conveys this is truly quite magical. And by magical we mean the local time satellite literally glides over the world map and around the city ring as it “travels” and points to the relevant city or timezone. A pusher at 9 o’clock moves the satellite in one-hour increments as it moves along the 24 cities. A small red arrow on the satellite takes care of the pointing and, itself, moves around the satellite. The arrow even changes its orientation as the satellite makes its way around the ring.
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So one can only imagine the complexity of the mechanism orchestrating all this, and we have Jean-François Mojon to thank for it. The CEO of Chronode SA, a specialist developer of mechanical watch movements and complications, Mojon partnered with La Montre Hermès to develop and execute the exclusive 122-piece “traveling time” module integrated within the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement, which oscillates at 28,800 VpH to give the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur 40 hours of autonomy. And setting the time couldn’t be simpler (at least, for anyone familiar with world timers). First, use the pusher to position the satellite opposite the city closest to your home, and if the city of choice uses Summer time, position the arrow at the “S” next to the city. This is where another Hermès-centric feature is revealed: for non-English speaking countries, the letter isn’t an “S,’ but the first letter of whatever the word for Summer is in that country’s native language, such
as “V” for verano in Spanish, or “K” for kalokairi in Greek. Cool. Next, pull the crown out to the second position to set the correct time on the satellite. Then, push the crown into the first position and turn it until the same time is displayed in the Home Time window. From this point on, you can “travel” the world by simply pressing the same pusher at 9 o’clock to move the satellite around the city ring in one-hour increments, making the Arceau Le Temp Voyageur more of a dual timezone watch rather than a traditional world time or GMT. “It is important to understand again that, when we take on a complication — a traditional complication — we always try to bring something different to it. Otherwise, we have no reason to pursue it,” continued Philippe Delhotal. “If we were to present the complication the same way as do the rest of the industry, that would not make sense to us. It is really key, for us, to bring a new idea to this multi-timezone concept. But we also kept ourselves
constrained to create something that will be very easy and intuitive to use. “We have a certain expertise established with the idea of the floating satellite, it is really an Hermès signature now.We used this approach, technically speaking, with the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune. It still took us three years to develop the traveling time module with Mr. Mojon, but at least we have this experience, and it has become a real signature for us. “What I personally love about the Arceau Le temps voyageur is that floating dial which gives a mystical feeling to the timepiece. I love this idea when you can’t really see what lies beneath and what makes it all work. It’s also about triggering our curiosity, you know? You’re thinking, ‘How is it showing the time? How is it floating over the imaginary planet?’ This is something I really love because it is really this wonderment that brings La Montre Hermès’ storytelling intentions to life.” The absolutely unique Arceau Le Temp Voyageur comes in two versions: the first is a dark, charcoal grey affair with a 41mm platinum case and grade 5 titanium bezel both bead-blasted and treated in matte black DLC. Its galvanized dial features light grey transferred continent names and contours; oceans laser-engraved then lacquered; and charcoal-grey transferred meridians and parallels. Its city flange is sandblasted black with silver-toned transferred city names. And its sandblasted mobile satellite features a black gold-lacquered rim with silver-toned powdered transferred Arabic numerals, and black gold hands coated with Super-LumiNova. The second version is a smaller albeit brighter affair and comes in a 38mm case in 316L stainless steel. It’s galvanized dial features blue transferred continent names and contours; and blue transferred meridians and parallels. Its city flange is satin-brushed blue with white transferred city names. And it’s sandblasted mobile satellite features a blue-lacquered rim with white transferred Arabic numerals, and rhodiumplated hands coated with Super-LumiNova. And while the larger 41mm Arceau Le Temp Voyageur is considered the flagship version, it’s the smaller (and brighter) 38mm stainless steel model that seems to get most of the attention. The Hermès Arceau Le Temp Voyageur is proof that even old dogs can be taught new tricks, and is another stunning addition to the Hermès Arceau collection.
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FEATURE
THE MONKEY KING ORIS once again pays homage to Sun Wukong with another Aquis Limited Edition Words by
Kit Payumo
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FEATURE
T
he Monkey King is one of the most enduring Chinese literary characters known today, and is a legendary mythical figure famous for being one of the main characters in the 16th century Chinese literary epic Journey to the West. Traditionally known as Sun Wukong in Mandarin Chinese, the Monkey King was born from a stone and later acquires supernatural powers through Taoist practices. The Monkey King, thus, possesses many abilities, the least of which is amazing strength. Indeed, the Monkey King is able to support the weight of two “heaven” mountains on his shoulders while running “with the speed of a meteor.” Needless to say, the Monkey King is also phenomenally fast and is capable of running 54,000 km in “one somersault.” Sun Wukong is also capable of 72 “Earthly Transformations,” more commonly known as shape shifting, giving Sun Wukong the ability to transform into various animals and objects. A skilled fighter, the Monkey King is capable of defeating the best warriors of heaven, and
has supernaturally powered hair, the magical properties of which allows Sun Wukong to transform it into various weapons and animals, as well as using it to make copies of himself. Last but not least, the Monkey King has various magical spells at his disposal, which he uses to command the wind, conjure protective circles against demons, and freeze humans, demons, and gods alike with a single word. Using the phenomenal Aquis as its base, Oris has collaborated with the Shanghai Animation Film Studio Co. to create a very special limited edition called the Sun Wukong Artist Edition, which takes inspiration from the seminal 1961 Chinese animated feature-length film The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven. Also translated into “Havoc in Heaven,” the Chinese donghua (animated) feature film was directed by Wan Laiming and produced by the venerable Wan Brothers, the self-made founders and pioneers of the Chinese animation industry. The stylized animated film borrows heavily from Peking Opera traditions, and was made during the Second Golden Era of the Chinese film industry in the 1960s. Most
"A unique hand painted cloisonné dial depicts the entrance to the imposing Dragon King’s underwater palace where Sun Wukong finds the red and gold staff."
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importantly, the animated film expands upon the epic Journey to the West, and recounts how The Monkey King uses his supernatural powers to acquire a red and gold staff from the Dragon King’s Palace, before rebelling against heaven. This is the second limited edition piece that pays homage to the titular character and follows last year’s Sun Wukong Limited Edition. Also based on the Oris Aquis, the former 2,000-piece limited edition showcased a red and gold central seconds and a blue dial that featured a repeating motif designed to capture the rapid spinning motion of the Monkey King’s staff as he uses it to defeat his enemies. Of the two, the new Sun Wukong Artist Edition undoubtedly better captures the heart and soul of the Monkey King as it features an image that comes straight from the 1961 Chinese animated feature-length film. Indeed, a unique handpainted cloisonné dial depicts the entrance to the imposing Dragon King’s underwater palace where Sun Wukong finds the red and gold staff. And this is when the double take usually occurs. Wait, what? An Oris Aquis dive watch with a
cloisonné enamel dial? As regular Calibre readers already know, a hand-painted cloisonné dial is an métier d’art, or rare handcraft usually associated with high-end, classical watch companies, and not proud, workingman watchmakers like Oris. The decision to apply it to the hardwearing Aquis diver’s watch, then, speaks of the watchmaker’s continuous desire to create solid and distinctive pieces that transcend the test of time. An Aquis like no other, the Sun Wukong Artist Edition is limited to only 72 numbered pieces, reflecting the number of “Earthly Transformations” the Monkey King can transform into. Better still, each cloisonné enamel dial is produced by a single highly skilled Swiss artist, and can take up to three days to complete. And while they all show the same scene, it is impossible to produce every single dial in exactly the same way, making each dial practically unique. Indeed, this is the charm of any enamel dial with its natural imperfections and idiosyncrasies, the process of which begins with a silver wire shaped into the outline form on a white-gold plate to create compartments or ‘cloisons’ in French. Each compartment is then filled with colored glass powder and individually fired in a kiln at around 800°C. One can only imagine the level of difficulty in this, as the failure of a single compartment results in the failure of the entire dial. The resulting enamel dial, however, must be seen to believe, and is endowed with the shiny, magical finish that has made hand-painted cloisonné legendary. Otherwise, this is the same workingman’s luxury diver’s watch from Oris including the 41.5mm multi-piece stainless steel case, the stainless steel screwed-in caseback, the screw-in security crown, the multi-piece stainless steel bracelet with security folding clasp and extension, and the 300-meter water resistance. The only difference for this limited edition is a special engraving of the Monkey King on the caseback, and a bezel that features a matte metallic insert with a tone-on-tone scheme and minimalistic 60-minute scale designed to put the unique handpainted cloisonné dial at the fore. This means no precious metals are to be found here just the same proud, utilitarian, working-class stainless steel that is the backbone of many a workingman’s watches. Last but not least, powering the Sun Wukong Artist Edition is the very capable Manufacture Calibre 400 with its highly anti-magnetic properties, phenomenal 5-day power reserve, and extended service warranty.
The very first Oris with a cloisonné dial: an Aquis like no other.
The 72-piece limited edition comes in a special cherry wood presentation box with specially colored blue lining to match the dial of the Sun Wukong Artist Edition.
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FEATURE
The Longines Legend Diver Watch Presented to you in an array of colours.
Words by
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Bert Casal
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FEATURE
T
he Longines Legend Diver Watch was first introduced in 2007. But the word “Legend” wasn’t just a name that they came up with to sound nice. The company actually has a long and proud connection to the sport of diving. Its history of diving watches can be traced back to 1937 when it introduced the world’s first chronograph with waterproof push buttons, an innovation that was patented the following year. When Longines released the Legend Diver Watch in 2007, it carried on a proud legacy. It was based on one of the very first diving watches of the brand, a SuperCompressor from 1959. The range has expanded over the years, but each model from this collection retains the spirit and the clean lines of the original. This year, Longines launched new interpretations of this “legendary” watch in a choice of colours and in two different sizes. It has the classically proportioned 42 mm models as well as 36 mm references. They have two crowns positioned at 2 and 4 o’clock. The former unscrews to adjust the internal bezel while the latter adjusts the time and date. Each timepiece features a box-shaped sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective coating and a screw-down case back that is decorated with an embossed emblem of a diver. The shaded dials feature polished rhodium-plated hands with
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“Longines's line of dive watches continues, this time in modern, attractive colors.” Super-LumiNova® for enhanced visibility. These diving watches have a water resistant rating of 300 meters. The 42 mm models in stainless steel are powered by the Calibre L888.5 (ETA A31.L11) mechanical self-winding movement. It has a silicon balance spring, contains 21 jewels, beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour, and has a power reserve of 72 hours. The 36 mm stainless steel models carry the Calibre L592 (ETA A20.L11) mechanical selfwinding movement, also with a silicon balance spring. It contains 22 jewels, vibrates at 28,800 per hour, and has a power reserve of 45 hours. These watches are called “Legend” for a reason. They have been around for some 85 years, and to this day, continues to attract divers and dive watch lovers with its dynamic and clean expressions that solidify the company’s dive watch heritage.
FEATURE
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Happy Heart of Gold Goodness in all aspects Words by
Katherine Cunanan
C
hoosing the right watch is sometimes a challenge. Deciding which functions you need or want, picking the metal you prefer, even finding out which size case best fits on your wrist. Do I want diamonds too? If so, do I want a plethora of diamonds, or a sprinkling? Thinking of sustainability, the bigger ecological picture, also comes in to play. This is where Chopard and the Happy Sport Chrono make the decision a little easier for you. The 18-carat rose gold used for these chronometers is ethically sourced. As part of the brand’s commitment and their Journey to Sustainable Luxury, Chopard began using only 100% ethically produced gold in 2018. The sourcing of this ethically produced gold involves verifying that the gold is freshly produced in an ethical manner and that the chain of custody from the source to the Manufacture is unbroken.
BEAUTY The Happy Sport Chrono comes in two models: an 18-carat rose gold version, and a bi-material version with stainless steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold. Both models are 40 mm in diameter and quite beautiful to see on the wrist. The warmth of the rose gold case is well-partnered with the sunburst satin-brushed gilded or silvertoned dial with guilloché centre. The pristine whiteness of the hour markers and hours and minutes hands is a nice counter point, as is the oversize 12 o’clock in Roman numerals. The
navy blue transfers add depth to the design. The rose gold watch (ref. no. 274653-5001) has a navy blue alligator leather strap with a rose gold buckle, and the rose gold and stainless steel watch (ref. no. 278615-6001) has a blue calf leather strap with a stainless steel buckle.
INNER POWER The Happy Sport Chrono is powered by a COSC-certified chronometer chronograph movement. The self-winding mechanism has a power reserve of 54 hours. This being a chronograph, there are pushers here on the right side of the case, flanking the crown. The pushers are sleek and do not overpower the classic round shape of the case. The stopwatch function is both fun and functional. And one thing to note for the
Happy Sport, each subdial is actually labeled with the function. The counter at 9 o’clock is labeled with ’30 minutes’ and the counter at the 6 o’clock is for 12 hours, with the 60 seconds counter at 3 o’clock. It may seem unnecessary but the discreet labels would help a chronograph newbie get the most use out of the watch with ease. The watch also has a date function, quietly tucked in at 4:30.
HAPPY-NESS Although technically not a function, the seven Happy diamonds are an integral part of the Happy Sport aesthetic. The free-moving diamonds that are "happier when they are free" add a youthful yet elegant touch to the watch. The Happy diamonds and the ethically sourced gold will indeed keep you Happy.
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TIMEFRAME
TIME TO REST A small area along the Rhône for you to take a break or take a snack after a stroll. The Rhône is a major river in France and Switzerland that flows to Lake Geneva. Photo by Keith Sundiang
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