Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-KingTHE LUXURY OF TIME VOLUME 17 ISSUE 137 AIR-KING BECOMES AN ACE Sky’s the Limit ISSN 1908-4994PHP275
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was with Raymond of El Kapitan Coffee learning more about the nuances of coffee and the machinery around it. He has some pretty strong views about people who talk about coffee from a position of authority. And his views were spot on. He felt that someone who is an authority has a responsibility to educate and bring people forward. Opinions have a place, he says, but they should be presented in a way that doesn’t too easily alienate or put people off. He was right. Of course many people will not feel that way, and that I guess is fine. But for a good portion of the world, responsibility comes along with how you communicate.
Yet in today’s world we are happy to see that there more people than ever who are interested in watches. And the age range is rather wide. I have seen care and joy as someone picked a watch from a stall in a mall and thoughtfully made their choice. I have seen people walk into a boutique and watched their eyes light I
I recently saw a chance encounter between a relatively new and young watch enthusiast, an academic traveling with a Ming watch on his wrist. He was talking to a very seasoned collector and enthusiast who had on his wrist exactly the type of watch people complain about not being able to get, but for this person it took all of a day to get. So two completely different enthusiast profiles. They met in a tiny watch shop in London that sold playful and inventive pieces that are generally around 200 or so US dollars, and had printed discs instead of hands. Everyone, including the very knowledgeable people in the shop, had a wonderful time talking together. What does this say? It says that the watch world is getting bigger and more diverse. If you limit yourself to what most people talk about, widen your field of vision. If you are buying the hot watch so you can tell people you have the hot watch, then maybe you aren’t buying a watch for the joy it brings you yourself. Switch thatThearound.most intelligent collectors and enthusiasts have always bought what they loved. Do the research, yes, and make good financial decisions, yes. But if you buy for what others will see, you are only discounting yourself. And if all you talk about is price, or retail, or where did you get one, then those are very narrow conversations. Talk about quality, talk about finish, talk about history, talk about journeys. Do what the smart people do. Make your time mean something to you and those you love.
What The Smart People Do
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief up as they picked up the watch they have been waiting for. One of those cost less than 50 US dollars, the other cost more than 10,000 US dollars. It was heartening to see both. We now have the ability, more than ever before, to find pieces that speak to us more specifically than in the past. Small makers are making small batches of watches, large makers are lowering their minimums. We as consumers are far more able to pick and choose as long as we are open. If you only want the same overhyped watch that everyone else does, then that’s fine. But there’s a whole world out there of things to choose from.
Raymond felt that those that have the honor of being able to speak to many people also have a responsibility to do so properly. So that was coffee, what does it have to do withIMuch.watches?haveoften been faced with loud voices that say all Swiss watches are overpriced, only Japanese are worth it. We have also had loud voices saying Swiss is the only way to go. Or a number of different variations on that theme.
THE MASTERLONGINESCOLLECTION Suzy Elegance is an attitude Longines Boutique 2F Mega Fashion Hall SM MandaluyongMegamallCity
Phase 2 of the TransformationAir-King 32 Rolex 4 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 COVER WATCH
A watch fit for an adventurous heart Welcome TUDOR’s legendary field watch. 4044 BulgariTudor 6 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 FEATURES
travelsTimethe world. ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR TIME, A HERMÈS OBJECT.
Jaeger-LeCoultreConstantin
Feels like a breath of fresh air Pays tribute to the great civilizations of antiquity Pays tribute to one of Japan’s greatest artists 485256Patek Philippe Vacheron
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Lets the complication do the talking Revisiting one of the brand’s iconic collections. Cements its affinity for cityscapes 686460 A. Lange & Söhne TAG GreubelHeuerForsey 9 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 FEATURES
Is out to save the mighty mollusk Reminds us of the little things Teaming up with an urban culture artist. 807672 Oris GlashütteRogerOriginalDubuis 12 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 FEATURES
Passing with FlyingT colors 3D printing done right Warps spacetime in titanium 928884 UrwerkSevenFridayMB&F 13 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 FEATURES
Chris Evans. And even if Evans tried his damned best to look as “off-kilter” as possible, not since James Bond has there been so many impossibly attractive and good looking “covert” secret agents in one place. And we haven’t even mentioned Ana de Armas yet. Thus, from the start to the very end of this two hour plus caper, Gosling’s Six is chased, beaten, shot, ambushed, pepper-sprayed, shot (again), trapped underground, handcuffed to a bench, shot (again), and knifed (repeatedly)… all without ever really breaking a sweat (perpetually gorgeous looking, remember?) And he did this because not only does Gosling’s super-trainedoperative character Six have massive skills, but he also had help. The first from Ana de Armas’ perpetually-gorgeouslooking CIA operative/assassin Dani Miranda, and the second from the newest TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5. That’s right, the same watch that Ryan Gosling made his TAG Heuer ambassadorship debut with. And this is the watch (in fact, the ONLY watch) that Gosling wears throughout the film.
n Netflix’s latest action blockbuster
The Gray Man, CIAlookingperpetually-gorgeous-RyanGoslingplaysoperative/assassin codenamed Sierra Six, who after a semibotched operation in Thailand comes into possession of damning evidence against a senior member of the covert agency. This results in Gosling’s character becoming “disavowed” and triggers a global manhunt with Six on the run from former CIA operative/assassin and sociopathicagent-killer Lloyd Hansen played equally-perpetually-gorgeous-lookingby CIA operative Ryan Gosling is on the run from Chris Evans in a high octane thriller I
GRAYTHEMAN
According to interviews during the movie’s premier in Los Angeles Gosling wasn’t exactly happy with the watch of choice for the movie, and insisted on wearing a very specific TAG Heuer watch.
“With this film, it really felt like there was a real opportunity, because watches are such a part of spy movies,” continued Gosling before the film's premier. “It was an opportunity to say something about this character, and we were trying to create a fresh take on a spy character. So I thought this particular watch was helpful in doing that.”
In the end, all the film’s lead actors survived without a scratch (well, almost all of them anyway). And come to think of it that includes the perpetually-gorgeouslooking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5, the only watch that could keep up with The Gray Man Joe Russo, Ryan Gosling, Frédéric Arnault, and Anthony Russo.
“We are thrilled to partner with Netflix for The Gray Man — not only does it star our very own brand ambassador in the form of Hollywood icon Ryan Gosling, but with a cast that also includes Chris Evans and Regé-Jean Page. With the Russo brothers directing, it already is the mustwatch movie of 2022. And what else would Gosling’s unflappable Sierra Six wear than a TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands — an iconic timepiece that is designed for those who don’t crack under pressure,” says TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault.
Gosling has been known to wear vintage 34mm watches before, so the Carrera Calibre 5 is just in that proverbial sweet spot that the actor personally requested it be used in the movie.
Gosling continued to say that it was important for the watch to remain a constant for Six, despite what his character was going through. “There’s like nine action set pieces in this movie, multiple different identities that are wildly different from each other,” said Gosling. “I’m in this kind of heightened red suit, then I go into this sort of tracksuit in the middle of the film, but the watch stays the same.”
SchlueterKristaPhoto:SchlueterKristaPhoto:
Indeed, the three-hander Carrera Calibre 5 is about as classic a sports watch as you can get. An iconic timepiece originally created for high-speed pursuits on the racetrack, this latest “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” TAG Heuer watch seemed tailor made for Sierra Six. Not only does it have a gorgeous yet clean and simple dial with a discrete date window at 6 o’clock for maximum legibility, it’s sized “just right” to be unobtrusive at 39mm.
“This was not the brand intended for the movie,” said Gosling. “And when I first tried on the brand that was intended, it was way too big and really impractical. It just felt like something this guy would never wear.”
Pictures in time as we travel the world Pictures in time as we travel the world Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World Jose Martin V. Ursúa Bryan Martin B. Zialcita JP C. Calimbas Carl S. Cunanan02192021223096 MinutesTempusBackVintageTheParallelTimeframePassionWind-UpExplorertoBasicsIncognitum 16 www.calibremagazine.com Contents SEPTEMBER 2022 REGULARS
Copyright © 2022 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher. Distributed Alphastreamby:Marketing Inc. #5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City Tel: (+632) 7945-5089 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King Volume 17 Issue 137 September 2022 C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. 10 Nathan St. White Plains Subdivision, White Plains, Quezon City, 1110 Philippines Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Visit: www.calibremagazine.com Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief Mayette L. Asis Vice President On The Cover C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher Executive Editor Joseph Peter C. Calimbas Advertising Manager Leslie G. Maxilom Chairman Michael L. Lhuillier Senior Editor Hernan C. Mapua Advertising Traffic Manager Mary Jane O. Salazar Senior Accountant Merline B. Urdas Credit and Collection Officer Mary Ann M. Benito Legal Counsel Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office Managing Director Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Board of Directors Michael L. Lhuillier Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco Collections Editor Jason S. Ang Associate Editor Kit O. Payumo Senior Staff Writer Alberto E. Casal Editor-at-Large Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Design Director Charie L. Biaden Senior Designer Mark David A. See Designer Mary Ann E. Marcelo Contributing Writers Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich DominiqueSantosO. Cerqueda Contributing Photographer Keith Sundiang MASTHEAD twitter.com/calibremagph@calibremagazinephCalibrefacebook.com/calibremagazinephMagazinePH
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an hour after opening, he was number 200+ on the wailtlist) and the commotion that usually accompanies a limited-edition sneaker drop bears down on Swatch shops that had stocks. In a few hours, every available piece is gobbled up. A few more hours later, they start poppingup on Ebay selling for as much as 8X the retail price. The highest price paid for one was USD$2,000 so I’ve read. Sheesh. Not something I like seeing and hopefully Swatch too. It’s not good to see a product end up being a cash cow in the hands of someone just wanting to make a fast buck rather than an actual end user. Again, welcome to the age of theFastHype.forward to today and the MoonSwatch pieces for sale are plastered wherever there’s an online seller ad being promoted. No waiting, no absurd mark up (need to pay for the boosted ad) and judging by their frequency, no takers. It looks like people were hoping to get more than what they were getting from a novelty item. Durability issues also have come up in various shapes so best check out the videos pointing these out rather than me going through them here. I think such shortcomings are to be expected given what the watch is and if you saw it as such. Like I said 4 months ago. So, am I still keeping the funds I allocated for a trio of MoonSwatches? Let me check the status of the piano black accessories I ordered for my Fortuner.
day (Manila time) prior to its scheduled global release date, we recorded a video for our Youtube channel wherein we talk about the Swatch and Omega collaboration watch called the MoonSwatch, a quartz-powered play on the iconic Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch that pays tribute to the Apollo moon missions. If I am not mistaken, there were eleven variants of the MoonSwatch representing the 10 planets and the sun and each comes in a corresponding colorway to match the destination. My personal favorites were Neptune, Jupiter and Mercury (the colorway of this is the closest to an actual Speedy Moonwatch IMHO). In the video, I said this Swatch will not and should not be taken as an alternative to THE Omega Speedmaster COSC-certified chronometer mechanical timepiece that pays homage to the Apollo missions. Period. Take it as a playful reimagination of a classic sports watch and you’ll be fine with the price tag. For those who belong to Gen X like me, this is a play on the watch we all wanted to have growing up. Admittedly, there were a select few who already had Rolexes when I was in Grade 5 so we can exclude them. A day later and the MoonSwatch goes on sale (only available through selected boutiques worldwide; the local boutique only took reservations and when a friend went to sign-up
A MoonFall
“For those who belong to Gen X like me, this is a play on the watch we all wanted to have growing up.”
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
prices have been going up. On the other hand, Citizen has been quietly producing some very attractive pieces at equally attractive prices. The hype isn’t there yet, though some models have developed a cult following and are trading at a Thepremium.Citizen Flagship Store did not disappoint — I was able to find there one last piece of the Citizen Promaster Godzilla (Gray) Limited Edition which was the primary reason I wanted to visit this store, and a new mechanical dress watch from Citizen with a beautiful blue and green urushi dial. Aside from this, the boutique featured other amazing brands owned by the Citizen group. I saw 20 |
apan has been my go-to vacation place ever since my first trip there almost 6 years ago. Though this initial foray to Japan was relatively recent, I think my affinity to the country started long ago. I grew up in the 80s exposed to the usual fare of American cartoons and also to some old school robot anime reruns. I enjoyed Disney movies, He Man, Thunder Cats and other cultural imports from the US, but not as much as I loved Robotech/ Macross, Daimos and Voltes V. Just a few weeks ago, I was privileged enough to go back to Japan for a business trip. Since Japan was not yet fully ‘open’ to tourists due to COVID restrictions, the requirements for my 9-day business visa was extensive and intimidating (to say the least). Thankfully, my colleagues in Japan were able to help me secure the needed documents without too muchThoughdifficulty.myprimary reason to go there was purely professional, I was able to squeezein a few days in my itinerary to go around both Tokyo and Yokohama. Needless to say, I included some watch hunting in the agenda. And as can be expected from the home of Seiko, watch hunting in Japan was – and still is — a fantastic experience. Upon arrival at Tokyo, I prioritized just 1 place that I absolutely had to visit that day — the Citizen Flagship Store in Ginza. For the longest time, Seiko was the usual answer to any person who wanted a good watch at an affordable price. Recently though, Seiko
Japan And Some Hidden Gems
J
some interesting timepieces from Bulova, Frederique Constant, Alpina, Arnold & Son and even Campanola. After checking out this store, I decided to have an early dinner. My very first meal in Japan was at a small, hidden and nondescript ramen restaurant that apparently appeared in the Michelin Guide as a Bib Gourmand restaurant some years ago. The following day, I was able to spend some time at the Seiko Museum learning more about the history of a brand I know and love. This was easily the most fascinating 2 hours of my stay in Japan this time around. The museum itself was very small and basic in comparison to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, but it was compact, and told the story of Seiko in its own uniquely Japanese way. After visiting the Seiko Museum, I decided to check out a huge pre-owned watch store called JackRoad at Nakano Broadway. This old building reminded me so much of the vibe of Virra Mall during the 1990s. Unlike Virra Mall though, this building was filled with numerous pre-owned watch stores, and toy stores for the young and the young at heart. The rest of my trip revolved around work, Japanese food, and the brief trips to Bic Camera and Yodobashi. Despite not being able to look around extensively and watchhunt to my heart’s content, this trip to Japan was a fascinating experience of trying to find that optimal balance between business and pleasure. More than anything else, I was glad to find out that even for seasoned travelers to Japan such as myself, there are still some hidden gems to discover.
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Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large
BACK TO BASICS
www.calibremagazine.com | 21 SEPTEMBER 2022 VINTAGE EXPLORER
Founder Hans Wilsdorf’s intention was that testimonees give feedback on how his watches performed, and how they might be improved.
n this issue of Calibre we take a closer look at Rolex’s latest version of the Air-King. This model was reborn in 2016, with a dial that echoed the instruments of the Bloodhound Land Speed Record car. While the new Air-King became a surprise hit, the Bloodhound did not, falling short of funds and ultimate pace. Nevertheless, it is a shame that Rolex did not leverage this collaboration to bring back another defunct, but arguably more appropriate, name from its archives: the Oyster Speedking. Introduced in the 1940s, the Ref.6420 is said to be named after Sir Malcolm Campbell, dubbed the “King of Speed” after capturing and defending the world land speed record from 1924 to 1935. Born to the upper-middle class as the son of a diamond trader, Malcolm Campbell first started racing motorcycles and automobiles in the early 1910s. He painted his racing cars blue, christening each of them “Blue Bird” after a contemporary stage play. Once war broke out, he entered military service at age 29, first as a dispatch rider, and then transferring to the Royal Flying Corps to become a ferry pilot. He never saw combat, and his flying career was cut short when he was declared “Unfit General Service” in 1917. However, Campbell would still become a “Sir” in 1919, when he became a military Member of the Order of the British Empire. Campbell’s celebrity grew between the wars as he resumed his motorsports career, racing at Brooklands and twice winning the non-championship Boulogne Grand Prix. An above-average gentleman racer, Campbell found his true calling on the sands of a Welsh I Sir Malcolm and the Kings of Speed beach in 1924, taking a Sunbeam 350HP (Blue Bird #4) to a speed of 146mph, a new world record. Over the next decade, his Blue Birds would grow bigger and faster, culminating in the Campbell-Railton that was powered by a 36.7L Rolls-Royce V12 built for seaplane racing. The venue for the record attempts would later move to Daytona Beach, and finally the Bonneville Salt Flats, where Campbell would be the first man to break 300mph in 1935. Having achieved this goal, Campbell moved to powerboats, breaking and holding the water speed record from 1937 to 1950. His son Donald would follow in his footsteps by reclaiming these records for the Campbell name, from 1955 to 1964. Donald would tragically perish when his jet -powered hydroplane “Bluebird K7” lifted off the water at over 320mph during a 1967 record attempt. Sir Malcolm, by contrast, had died peacefully in his sleep in 1948, at the age of 63 — an extraordinary and ironic end for a “Speed King!” Sir Malcolm Campbell is also remembered as one of Rolex’s earliest brand ambassadors, or “Testimonees.” Then, as now, Rolex preferred its endorsements from sportsmen and pioneers like Mercedes Gleitze, its very first testimonee. Gleitze was the first person to swim the Straits of Gibraltar and the first British woman to cross the English Channel — while wearing a Rolex Oyster, of course.
Newspaper advertisements for “The Famous Rolex Oyster” featured Campbell’s smiling face and the hulking silhouette of his Blue Bird. Many ads even included snippets of telegrams that Campbell had sent, praising the watch (“Still going splendidly notwithstanding rough usage received.”) Although he can be considered a trailblazer in advertising, it must be noted that Campbell did not wear a Rolex for a quick paycheck. As was often stated in Rolex copy of the time, “We are indebted to Sir Malcolm for this opinion, more especially as he rejects the fee to which, as an expert, he is entitled.”Inmyresearch, I could not find any advertisement that featured both the Rolex Speedking and Sir Malcolm Campbell. The association may have been implicit, but it was strong. So given this long and successful history, why wouldn’t Rolex revive the name? Pure speculation on my part, but I believe it’s because the Speedmaster exists, and brand confusion is a terrifying prospect!
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
22 | www.calibremagazine.com SEPTEMBER 2022
OFMYSTERIESTHEORIENT Cartier explores yet another way of celebrating the diversity of culture T
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
THE WIND-UP
he Cartier Privé collection celebrates the Maison’s most iconic models through limited edition numbered watches that bridge the gap between Cartier’s watchmaking heritage and today’s aesthetic vision. Among the previous Cartier watches to have graced the collection are the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique and Cloche Cartier watches. The extraordinary Tank Chinoise watch, brimming with exclusivity and personality, will be the sixth special timepiece to write the next chapter in the acclaimed Cartier Privé story. Created in 1922, the Tank Chinoise follows after one of the most celebrated watches in the history of watchmaking: the Tank, created by Louis Cartier in 1917 after being inspired by a French Renault FT-17 tank from the first world war. Marked by an accuracy of design and timelessness in its pure lines, the Tank is one of the most indelible models of the Maison, and has become the template for a signature design that has served the Maison for over a hundred years. For the Chinoise, Louis Cartier took the lines of the Tank and plunged head first into the mysteries of the orient. In the process, he recognized the richness of other cultures, and how other forms of the arts were inextricably tied to jewellery and watchmaking. And having already designed precious objects such as vanities, powder compacts and clocks adorned with emblematic elements of Chinese iconography, Louis Cartier turned
The first of the three is made of yellow gold and features horizontal brancards
Also forged from 950 platinum, the final model is a dazzling number that features a case and buckle set with 161 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.70 carats, as well as a crown set with a .06 carat brilliant-cut diamond. It is matched with shiny blue or semi-matte red alligator straps, and is an even more exclusive numbered limited edition of only 20 pieces. swathed in black lacquer. It is matched with semi-matte black or red alligator leather straps. The second is made of platinum and is matched with semi-matte grey or blue alligator leather straps. Even more exclusive than the standard versions, both models are numbered limited editions of only 100 pieces each. But it’s the third and final model that takes the spotlight.
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The last time the Cartier Chinoise was paid homage to was way back in 2004, so to celebrate its 100-year anniversary this year, Cartier has created a waterfall of new Tank Chinoise models that will surely whet the appetites of Tank enthusiasts, premier of which is a model with an open-worked dial that reveals the inner workings of its signature movement.
Thus, the original square(ish) proportions of the Tank Chinoise paid tribute to the opulent architecture of Chinese temples. Indeed, the indelible geometry of Chinese porticos (that’s entry gates for you and me) were transposed into the Tank Chinoise via a pair of horizontal bars placed on top of the famous vertical brancards of the Tank
But first are the “standard” Cartier Tank Chinoise watches, of which there are three in yellow gold; rose gold; and platinum. All three come in 39.49 by 29.2 mm sizes, and are powered by the mechanical hand-wound 430 MC movement. And in case it isn’t immediately obvious, the new Chinoise watches now have a rectangular, rather than a square case. This has the benefit of opening up the design, which allows the portico-inspired horizontal brancards to add to the exclusivity and elegance of the design even more. Best of all, all three are limited editions of 150 pieces each. The versions that really invite comparison to Chinese architecture, however, are the three 39.5 by 29.2 mm models with the aforementioned open dials and skeletonized movements. Much like traditional Chinese windows, the openings on the dial of these Tank Chinoise models reveal the inner workings of the 9627 MC skeleton movement, which was developed by Cartier especially for the new Tank Chinoise. And working in conjunction with black and red lacquer in a traditional Chinese motif brings both preciousness and depth to the striking dial. Indeed, the combination has made the new Tank Chinoise the epitome of Chinese savoir-faire.
to the pliable canvass of the Tank as his next receptacle for oriental aesthetics.
A CLASS ACT
he new C-Class carries the latest innovations and modernisations that carry the same styling elements, substance, and technologies from the flagship S-Class. From the exterior design characteristics, headlamp and taillamp design, all the way to the flowing, seamless, and extensively digitised interior. And as such, the new C-Class has been lovingly dubbed as the “BabyThisS.”fifth generation model offers Comfort with its generous space, due to the larger dimensions compared to the previous models. The overall length was Auto Nation Group (ANG) launches the new C-Class. T
EngineCMercedes-Benz180AvantgardeandTransmission 4 cylinders, in-line 1.496 cc displacement 125 kW (170hp at 5,500-6,000 rpm 250 Nm at 1,800-4,000 rpm 9G-TRONIC (9-speed A/T) EQ Boost mild-hybrid Performance and Fuel Consumption 0-100 km in 8.6 seconds Top speed of approx. 231 km/h Fuel consumption 6.5-6.2 l/100km combined Combined CO2 emissions 149-141 g/km www.calibremagazine.com | 25 THE WIND-UP
The new C-Class is more energetic and more energy-conscious. It is more responsive yet more refined, advancing its sport-sedan legacy into a new era of funThedriving.new C-Class is available in one variant: the C 180 Avantgarde.
The new C-Class offers you the feeling of being in total Control. The driving experience offers both power and efficiency. It comes with an electrified drivetrain with EQ boost mild-hybrid technology. The integrated Starter Generator and 48-volt power supply supports the combustion engine by providing up to 15kW of additional power and up to 200nM more torque.
increased by 65mm, the width extended by 45mm, the wheelbase lengthened by 25mm, and the ground clearance was raised by 7mm. The cabin is fitted with a 64-color ambient lighting. A THERMATIC dual-zone automatic climate control allows passengers to set the desired temperature. And for their ease of mind, a charcoal filter reduces the harmful chemicals and substances that may enter theThecabin.new C-Class offers Connectivity. Nowadays, technology plays a big part in the total driving experience. For this reason, it is equipped with many driving assistance features such as connectivity with Apple CarPlay™ and Android Auto with access to applications such as Waze, Messages, and Spotify. It also has the latest generation NTG7 MBUX multimedia system that features a voice command system that can be activated by speaking the words “Hey Mercedes”. To assist you in controlling these features, an 11.9” floating central touchscreen display on the centre console is slightly inclined towards the driver. The 10.25” freestanding full digital instrument display can be customised to suit the driver’s taste.
lways tempered and measured when it comes to yearly model updates, Rolex took an unprecedented big swing this year by coming out with an update that not only forced the watchmaker to change the orientation of their go-to calibre 3285 movement, but also to reassess the final precision testing procedures carried out for the brand’s Superlative Chronometer certification, Rolex’s in-house “manufacturing standard” that allows each Rolex timepiece to stand head and shoulders above the competition.
And it comes in the form of the new Rolex GMT-Master II, which not only sports a new color way to the brand’s signature ceramic Cerachrom bezel, but also brings the brand’s story along significantly by being a “destro” (horological parlance for left-handed). Rumored to be a tribute to Rolex’s left-handed CEO Jean Frédéric Dufour, the new Rolex GMT-Master II (reference 126720VTNR) finds not only its signature crown and monolithic crown guards moved to the left-hand side of the case, but the date display and the Cyclops window have moved from the 3 o’clock to the 9 o’clock position on the dial as well. Also significant to the uniqueness of this model is the aforementioned new two-toned engraved ceramic bezel insert, which on the reference 126720VTNR sees the familiar black ceramic combined for the first time with a striking forest green; thus, earning the nickname “Sprite” (although in our opinion the nickname “Starbucks” would have worked just as well). This is in line with the other Rolex “collectibles” in the soda isle such as the red-and-black “Coke,” the red-and-blue “Pepsi,” and the brown-and-black “Root Beer.” This being a Rolex, there is the 40mm Oyster case; as is the 100 meters of water Rolex faithful: get your collecting shoes on! A resistance courtesy of the hermetically screwed down case back and Triplock winding crown; as well as the tried and true calibre 3285, which incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, and an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring. The movement is insensitive to magnetic fields, and displays an additional time zone. But best of all: being a lefty, the Rolex GMT-Master II is undoubtedly a rarity, which significantly turbo-charges its collectability by a hundred percent. Official Rolex retailers get ready for the stampede.
© Rolex/Alain Costa © Rolex/Alain Costa 26 | www.calibremagazine.com THE WIND-UP
DESTRO
The light yet sturdy Heure H combines its modern and sophisticated style with a mechanical Manufacture Hermès movement. Its large square titanium case is endowed with different finishes creating a play on contrast and light. The deep black and grey tones accentuate its graphic shape featuring beautifully balanced volumes expressed in a softly vibrant manner.
The dial with its slender gilded hands reveals the bluish shades sprinkled with yellow gold achieved by this unique method combining creativity and nanotechnology. A navy blue calfskin single or double tour strap crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops sets the final touch to the Cape Cod crépuscule watch.
ADVERTORIAL
Cape Cod Crépuscule
Heure H
A 41mm-diameter platinum version with a matt black DLC-treated titanium bezel and a 38mm steel iteration – are fitted with alligator or Swift calfskin straps made in Hermès Horloger’s own workshops using the House’s long-established saddle-making and leather craftsmanship expertise.
Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
28 | www.calibremagazine.com THE WIND-UP
ARCTIC RANGER
Driving the new Tudor Ranger is the in-house Calibre MT5204, initially released for the 39mm Black Bay line in 2018. This COSC-certified movement features a variable inertia balance wheel with a freesprung silicon hairspring; is non-magnetic; and boasts a 70-hour power reserve.
he British North Greenland Expedition was a twoyear scientific mission to study the ice sheets in Greenland. It left Deptford (an area on the banks of the Thames in London) on July 8, 1952. And on the wrists of the expedition members were brandnew Oyster Prince models, Tudor’s first automatic and waterproof watch. The main mission of these mainly British scientists and sailors was to conduct in-depth glaciological and seismic surveys at several sites in Greenland. At the behest of Tudor,
And just like the best multi-talented field watches, the time-only Tudor Ranger respects the aesthetic standards established throughout the course of history, especially with its ultra-clean, and highly legible dial with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.
Three bracelets in steel, hybrid and Jacquard are on hand for the new Tudor Ranger The first is an entirely satinbrushed steel bracelet fitted with the Tudor "T-fit" clasp equipped with a rapid length adjustment system. The second bracelet is in natural rubber and fabric-like textured black leather with beige topstitching and a folding clasp. While the third has become a signature for the watchmaker, and is in olive green with two red stripes and one beige stripe woven in a time-honored method by the Julien Faure company in the St-Étienne region of France. Muted and more tool-like for the man on the go, the new Tudor Ranger is one of the best do-anything, go-anywhere, everyday watches out there today. It was tested by the watchmaker fully assembled and to much tighter chronometer specifications of -2 and +4 seconds above and beyond the COSC certification.
Tudor marks the 70th anniversary of the British North ExpeditionGreenland T however, the expedition also gathered performance data for the 30 Oyster Prince watches that also braved the arctic conditions during the expedition. To mark the 70th anniversary of the expedition, Tudor presents the new Tudor Ranger, the watchmaker’s latest robust, practical, and affordable tool watch that celebrates the spirit of this daring adventure with a 39mm case, a Manufacture calibre, and a clasp with a rapid adjustment system.
Time passes irrevocably.
The entire process began when 25th president, Marc De Joya, approached N
Martin about producing a commemorative watch for the club’s anniversary. Martin’s primary condition was that he be allowed to produce a watch that was factory-made rather than just a modified version of an existing production model — the case for the previous 20th anniversary watch. Not long after, Martin decided to contact Sarah Ruhmann, from the German watch maker Laco whom he’d met at Baselworld 2018, about producing a limited number of watches for MCP. Sarah replied the very same day, referring a delighted Martin to
How Laco made the quintessential roadster watch Words by Edrich Santos
ow in its 25th year, the Miata Club Philippines, founded in 1997 by Eddie Salonga, has decided to commemorate history by producing an anniversary watch. One had already been produced to mark MCP’s 20th year, but for this their 25th, the primary watch proponent, Baselworld regular and avid enthusiast Martin Zialcita was more ambitious.
PARALLEL PASSION Desirable Diversion 30 | www.calibremagazine.com SEPTEMBER 2022 FLIEGERTHE25
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Finally, the watch will feature engravings on the case side showing the club’s institution, the series numbers on the case back and the caption ’25 YEARS LONG LIVE THE ROADSTER’ on the watch’s rotor — the last detail, a certified factory job.
The anniversary watch’s case is brushed, not sandblasted, to better cope with our tropical environment. Consequently, the new watch will be accompanied by two straps: a dark blue leather Flieger strap with subtly contrasting dark blue stitching and a new, as-of-yet-unreleased steel bracelet.
The Japanese Miyota movement suits the personality of the watch design well. The numerals are clear and very easy to read. Curiously, despite the absence of complication, the case itself sits rather tall — but far from being cumbersome, looks quite premium and interesting on the wrist with either bracelet. However, it is — to my eye at least — the optional Flieger strap that suits the watch’s personality perfectly. The 39mm case is just the right size for most wrists and the watch has just enough heft to denote quality without being uncomfortably heavy. The steel bracelet is comfortable with delightfully solid, flat links allowing it to conform easily to the wrist. The overall effect is that the watch feels many times more expensive than its asking price
Thesuggests.endresult is a handsome watch that is presented in a high-quality box wearing its steel bracelet — the Flieger straps are provided separately; the boxes have small stickers that reflect the series numbering of the watches within. The regulation warranty card and manuals are also included. The idea for the first twenty-five watches is that each president gets the corresponding series number for the club year that he's served — MCP presidents and their officers are elected annually.
Dorothea Gunther who became Martin’s contactEstablishedthereafter.in1925, and known for making timepieces for the Luftwaffe, Laco was an interesting choice for the club's commemorative watch because the aviation theme is echoed appropriately by the open top, volante driving experience of the MX-5. Laco is notable for using Japanese Miyota — apart from Swiss — movements, in their watches — a sort of cultural hybrid that somehow seems appropriate for the MX-5’s character — the MX-5 was after all a very European idea manufactured in Japan.
The commemorative watch would then be manufactured straight from Laco’s official production line featuring the numerals from a Type B model to show the number 25, applied to the dial from a Type A model. The club logo will be stamped right below the watch hands while the numerical lumes will feature in blue except for the 25, which is in green — a subtle nod to the anniversary
Laco and MCP have completed a great collaboration producing an exquisite anniversary watch that cleverly blends the heritage and values of both. And since such a rare and special watch deserves more than just a common identity, I’ve respectfully taken the liberty of calling this delightful little watch the unofficial name Laco, MCP Flieger 25 www.calibremagazine.com
year. This idea was suggested by Gino Reyes, one of the club’s many watch enthusiasts.
The start point for the commemorative watch was the Augsburg Blaue Stunde 39, powered by the robustly reliable Miyota 821A movement, produced in a sandblasted case finish and fitted with a grey Nato strap.
"The start point for the commemorative watch was the Augsburg Blaue Stunde 39..."
Phase 2 of the TransformationAir-King Words by Jose Martin V. Ursúa COVER WATCH GAMBITKING’S 32 | www.calibremagazine.com
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First Air-King, 1958 Hans Wilsdorf
einvention is a tricky thing. Chris Pratt famously transformed himself from a schlubby, comedic TV actor into one of the most bankable leading men in Hollywood, his action-ready physique debuting in Zero Dark Thirty and Guardians of the Galaxy. In the watch world, few brands are as cautious as Rolex, which is ever wary of spoiling a successful formula. Nevertheless, it has successfully reinvented familiar models, usually with the help of a Roman numeral. The Explorer II and Yacht-Master II stand out as the biggest departures from the originals, while the 1958 and 1967 iterations of the Milgauss may as well be different watches entirely. The Rolex Air-King, has now entered the second stage of its metamorphosis. This new version (Ref. 126900) doubles down on the fresh image that was presented by the reborn Air-King in 2016, just two years after the name had been discontinued. 2022’s Air-King retains the visual language of its predecessor, but leans harder into its new utilitarian appeal with a refinement of its dial and the striking addition of crown guards — a first for a Rolex without a functional bezel. In addition, the 126900 brings significant mechanical improvements with its new movement. All in all, it is a continuation of the Air-King’s rugged direction that cements its status as a go-anywhere alternative to the Explorer. For over half a century, the Air-King was the very definition of an entry-level Rolex and a perennial bestseller. The name first appeared in 1945, alongside the Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf was openly supportive of the Allied war effort, and launched these models to honor the pilots of the RAF. The early Air-King went through several iterations, all manual-wind and visually similar to contemporary Bubblebacks. Strangely, as far as the official Rolex history is concerned the Air-King line did not begin until the ubiquitous Ref. 5500 debuted in 1957. This Air-King would be the apple of the eyes of junior bankers looking to buy their first Rolex, and that remained true with its successors: 1989’s Ref. 14000 and 2007’s Ref. 114200. However, in its later years the Air-King was held back by a case size that had fallen out of fashion. 34mm, once fit for a man, was now considered “Boys Size” in a world where 40-50mm cases had become the norm. During its 2-year hiatus, Rolex would go back to the drawing board to reconceptualize what the AirKing was supposed to stand for.
Air-King, 2022
In 2016, the Air-King (Ref. 116900) returned with a case and movement that were shared with the Milgauss, another Rolex name that had lain dormant for two decades. Instead of a compact version of the legendary Oyster Perpetual, available in a spectrum of dress and semi-sporting dials, this refreshed Air-King discovered a sense of purpose befitting its heroic title. Only one dial was offered, with a stark design featuring iconic Rolex colors: yellow coronet, green seconds hand and text, against a matte black background. The face of this Air-King mirrored those of the instruments that Rolex had developed for the Bloodhound Land Speed Record car. Critics called it busy and polarizing, but everyone agreed that it was unmistakeable. Unlike any of its precursors, this Air-King sparked enough demand to create year-long waiting lists. The 2022 version of the Air-King brings several substantial updates, but Rolex has tried not to mess with its past success. Hence, the dial on the 126900 stays largely unmodified, with the most obvious and controversial difference being the replacement of the “5” minute marker with a “05.” Rolex contends that this added digit balances the dial, but already there are complaints that the upper third is an overwhelming array of zeroes and fives. More universally appreciated is the addition of Chromalight to all applied markers (numerals and triangle), making the Air-King far more useful, and distinctive, in a darkened cockpit. Familiar Mercedes hands point to the hours and minutes, while a green-lacquered lollipop indicates the seconds. This is the same corporate shade of cadmium green as on the “Rolex” printed on the dial, beneath the yellow coronet. Aside from these flashes of color and the playful “AirKing” script that is unchanged since 1957, the dial comes close to rivaling the Explorer’s in functional purity.
The case, still 40mm across and formed from 904L alloy dubbed “Oystersteel,” is where we find the most obvious changes to the Air-King. There are protrusions flanking the 7mm Twinlock, marking the first time that crown guards have appeared on a Rolex with a smooth bezel. Between these and
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"The addition of crown guards make this Air-King a tool watch unlike any Rolex before it."
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the slab sides (as opposed to the rounded lugs of the previous model), one can see a strong resemblance to the mid-case of the current Submariner No-Date. With the end of its lease on the Milgauss case, the Air-King also loses its two-piece caseback, which included an anti-magnetic, soft-iron Faraday cage. Offsetting this reduction in magnetic resistance is a 1.5mm slimmer case profile. Note this new case has had no effect on the Air-King’s water resistance rating, which stays at a conservative 100m. Aside from the polished bezel and edges, the entire case is given a satin finish that suits a proper tool watch. This brushed/polished look extends to the bracelet, which has been widened from 20mm to 21mm at the lugs before tapering to a 16mm Oysterlock clasp that carries a 5mm comfort extension link. Behind the caseback is the new Rolex Calibre 3230, replacing the Cal. 3131 that was also shared with the Milgauss. Introduced in 2020 on the Submariner No-Date, the automatic Cal. 3230 sees enhancements to precision, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. In fact, many technological advances in Rolex movements (e.g. Parachrom hairspring, nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement) have closed the anti-magnetic gap between the Air-King and a specialist watch like the Milgauss. To the end user, the biggest difference is the 70-hour power reserve, courtesy of efficiency gains and a barrel redesign. Compared to the previous watch, this adds nearly one day to the time between depletion and a full wind. Naturally, the Air-King is still a “Superlative Chronometer,” retaining its COSC certification that guarantees +/-2 -second dailyWithprecision.thisongoing reinvention of the Air-King, Rolex is slowly finding a way to differentiate it from stablemates that live on that uneasy divide between sport and dress watches — specifically, the Explorer. Both models are priced similarly (with the Milgauss priced Є1850 higher), so the choice will come down to visual preference and philosophical compatibility: How outwardly rugged do you want your tool watch? In its 2016 guise, the resurrected Air-King was a hybrid between the Milgauss and the Explorer. The 2022 Air-King sheds its Milgauss DNA, and can instead be viewed as an evolutionary off-shoot of the 39mm Explorer. With the Explorer returning to its traditional 36mm size, Rolex can be more adventurous with the Air-King, which now looks to even sportier watches like the Submariner for inspiration. It may have been a transformation that was six years in the making, but Rolex’s boy has grown to be a warrior king.
Quality deserves time.
Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
FEATURES
SEPTEMBER 2022
FEATURE
It was tried. It was tested. And it passed with flying colours.
Words by Bert Casal n the 8th of July 1952, The British North Greenland Expedition left London for a two-year scientific mission to study the ice sheets in Greenland. Greenland is the world’s largest non-continental island. To say that Greenland is cold is an understatement, as the lowest temperature ever recorded in the Northern Hemisphere was -69.6 °C in 1991 on this very island. The British North Greenland Expedition was a two-year expedition (from 1952 to 1954) that involved about 30 men (consisting of scientists and sailors), all of whom were supplied with TUDOR’s brand new Oyster Prince model. It was the brand’s first automatic and waterproof watch. The team conducted in-depth glaciological and seismic surveys at several sites. As the expedition’s “sponsor” TUDOR asked the team to gather performance data for the watches that they supplied to see how they performed under extreme climate conditions. The members of the expedition monitored variations in the precision of their Oyster Prince watches compared to the hourly signals emitted by the BBC, and recorded O them in notebooks specifically provided for this purpose. During the expedition, temperatures below -59.4 °C were recorded on numerous occasions. The lowest recorded value was at -66.1 °C in The1954.30TUDOR watches sent for this project were specially lubricated with “arctic”oil and provided with bracelet extensions so the watches could be worn over the sleeves of the parkas. Upon returning from Greenland, one of the members of the expedition wrote a letter to TUDOR saying that his watch “maintained remarkable precision” and “at no time did it need to be rewound by hand.” This letter was preserved in the brand’s archives.
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RangerofReturnThethe
“The TUDOR Ranger is a tool watch that celebrates the spirit of the British North Greenland Expedition adventure.”
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The TUDOR Ranger carries the Manufacture Calibre MT5402. Its construction has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision. Its variable inertia balance is held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge which is anchored in two points, and is equipped with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring. This movement is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, with its performance going beyond that what is expected by the independent institute. A COSC Certification requires that a movement should have at least a -4 and +6 seconds variation. The Calibre MT5402 records an even more accurate result of -2 and +4 seconds completely assembled. Another notable feature of this movement is that it has a 70-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to be set aside for the weekend and worn when the week starts without having to wind it.
The origins of the TUDOR Ranger date back to 1929. This was the year when founder Hans Wilsdorf registered that name. The aesthetics that we now recognise as the Ranger did not appear until the 1960s, with its large Arabic numerals, generously coated with luminescent materials at 3 (for models without a date function), 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, as well as its uniquely designed hands.
The TUDOR Ranger is available in three types of straps. It can come with a Jacquard (fabric) strap, a satin-brushed steel bracelet, or a hybrid bracelet. The Jacquard strap is woven using a traditional method on 19th-century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in St-Étienne region of France. This year is the 12th year that TUDOR and the Julien Faure company have been collaborating with each other. The steel bracelet is equipped with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp that features a system for rapid length adjustment. Requiring no tools, it offers five positions to carry out a fine, instant adjustment with an allowance of 8 mm. The hybrid braclet is made with natural rubber and fabric-like textured black leather with beige topstitching and a folding clasp.
TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for its entire collection and does not require the watch to be registered or submitted for periodic checks, and is transferable.
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The new Ranger model respects the aesthetic standards established in the course of its history while incorporating new state-of-the-art technical elements. The 39-millimeter case and the bracelet of the Ranger are satin-brushed, creating an overall matte finish. Some elements are polished to strengthen the lines of the case, including the inner edge of the bezel. The hour markers are painted in a beige luminescent material to perfectly contrast with the grained, matte black dial. The arrow-shaped hands, rounded for the hours hand and angular for the seconds hand, are characteristic of Ranger aesthetics. A new design element was added to the tip of the seconds hand, presented in burgundy.
AdventureTheAwaits AMERIGO VESPUCCI: THE MAN, THE SHIP, THE WATCH Words by Katherine Cunanan FEATURE 44 | www.calibremagazine.com
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THE ADVENTURER Amerigo’s business ventures were struggling, so he decided it was time to give in to that call, that fire. And so began his life as an adventurer. His exploits were many and so were his patrons. Historical reports say his first exploration was funded by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain. Additional reports say that his later explorations were funded by King Manuel I of Portugal. People his say his third of six exploration trips was the most successful, because he confirmed that the land he discovered was neither Asia nor India (this concept comes in to play later on, you’ll Indeed,see).itwas a new world: the Americas. Fun fact, continents are said to be named with feminine names; thus the use of ‘America’ as the feminine form of Amerigo’s name. And it is interesting to note that Amerigo himself did not use the name ‘America’ when speaking of this new world. He used the term ‘Mundus Novus’ or new world. Was it his training under his Dominican friar uncle that taught him to be humble?
A
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merigo Vespucci was an Italian man whose travels and adventures led him across the globe. The family was a cultured one, with connections to the wealthy and influential Medici family. Amerigo was the third son in the family, and though his older brothers were sent to Tuscany to further their education, young Amerigo was given his education by an uncle who happened to be a Dominican friar, Giorgio Antonio Vespucci. Perhaps this different approach to his education lit the embers of a fire in him — a fire for knowledge, a fire for adventure. Family looks after each other, and anther uncle comes into the story of Amerigo, now a young man. His uncle Guido Antonio Vespucci was an ambassador of Florence and sent Amerigo to Paris on a diplomatic mission. Perhaps the uncle wanted his nephew to see the world and broaden his horizons. Aren’t uncles awesome that way? The trip further heightened his fascination with all things new and unexplored. The embers previously lit grew to a small fire. But that fascination had to be put on hold for a while as he gave in to pressure from his father to go into business. He started in Florence then moved to Seville in Spain. From his various business dealings, he learned of other men sailing out into the world, literally and figuratively, and perhaps he felt the call of adventure a little stronger. The fire was growing larger.
THE SHIP Amerigo Vespucci’s heart for adventure and successful exploits on the seas was understandably a source of pride for the country of his birth, Italy. The Italian Navy paid homage to this explorer by naming one of their training ships after him, the STS Amerigo Vespucci. Built and commissioned in 1931, this class A tall ship is three-masted and has a height 36.81 meters and a hull length of 82.38 meters. The ship was meant to look like a nineteenth century wooden warship, but created with a steel hull. Amerigo Vespucci the ship is a full square rigged ship and carries 24 sails across the three masts. The masts are imposing and strong enough to support the numerous sails, which in turn catch the wind that propels the ship. In case the ship is caught on a windless day, she has an auxiliary engine. Another fun fact, ships were traditionally dedicated to goddesses, so each ship was considered a ‘she.’ Even if this ship was named after a man, the ship is still a she. And this ship has a permanent crew of 250 to 270 people, plus up to 150 cadets who train on the ship. The Amerigo Vespucci serves two main functions: training campaigns for the Italian Naval Academy, and show-the-flag appearances in support of Italy. The training mission goals include seamanship, navigation, logistical management, and of course, ‘survival at sea.’ Aside from the rigorous training campaigns in the Mediterranean Sea, Northern Europe, and Atlantic Ocean, she has also sailed around the world and even participated in the America’s Cup. Fitting, isn’t it? The Amerigo Vespucci joining the America’s Cup.
The phrase ‘NAVE SCUOLA’ is seen on the back of the watch, and this means ‘training ship.’ a bit obvious perhaps, but somehow seeing it in Italian instead of English makes it more interesting. The ship’s motto is seen here in Italian too — “non chi comincia ma quel che persevera,” meaning “Not he who begins, but who perseveres.” Remember back in Amerigo Vespucci the man’s story about confirming that the land he discovered was neither Asia nor India? Someone may have gone a similar way before him, but he persevered to find the truth. This is perhaps the mark of a true explorer, and a trait shared with honorable sailors: not stopping until you find out the truth. And the truth is, this watch is a fitting tribute to the ship, the man, and the adventure. The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci Special Edition watches will number just 1,000 pieces for release. Each one with a mahogany presentation box engraved with the Bvlgari Aluminium signature and the sailing ship’s motto. Don the Amerigo Vespucci and be inspired to achieve adventure, audacity, and perseverance.
Knowing all this about Amerigo Vespucci the ship it comes as no surprise that Bvlgari has chosen to honor it with the launch of the Bvlgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci Special Edition. It goes without saying that Amerigo Vespucci the man is also worthy of honor, of course. Much as the ship is eye-catching on the water, the watch is eye-catching on the wrist. The combination of aluminum, titanium, and rubber is both sporty and adventurous. The 40mm aluminum case has a black DLC-coated titanium back with the name and motto engraved. The bezel and strap are in black rubber, and the strap has aluminum links and pin buckle. Powered by the mechanical self-winding BVL Calibre 192 movement, the watch has hours, minutes, and seconds functions, the date, and a GMT function with a second time zone indication. The 50-hour power reserve gets you through 2 days with a couple hours to spare. The case back reveals tributes to that audacity and strength embodied by the ship.
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THE WATCH
48 | www.calibremagazine.com FEATURE
Patek Philippe’s new Annual Calendar Travel Time
A NEW DAWN
Yes, right off the bat Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time is definitely less conservative and less classical, and is altogether more robust and more retro, speaking to a new generation of Patek Philippe clients while keeping one foot squarely within the Manufactures well-established staples of elegance andAndtradition.itallstarted in 1996 when Patek Philippe merged all of its Genevan ateliers in Plan-lesOuates under one roof and launched its patented Annual Calendar at the same time. It takes into account all the months in the calendar and only has to be manually corrected on March 1 to account for the shorter month of February.
Just a year later the Travel Time mechanism was launched in 1997, which featured a clutch based on a Patek Philippe patent granted in 1959. It indicates a second time zone via a second hour hand from the center of the dial and can be adjusted in one-hour increments in both directions (a rarity in the field of GMT and world-time watches) and is done via two pushers in the left-hand case flank without affecting the precise rate of the movement.
The caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a stop-seconds mechanism
Two complications, eight patents:
Words by Kit Payumo n yet another sure sign that the watchmaker has taken a turn in a new direction, Patek Philippe has released a first for the brand in the form of a new watch (and when we say new we mean BRAND NEW and not just a new dial color or case material). And not only does it have an overtly vintage vibe in the same vein as 2015’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524, it also features a granular dial reminiscent of the cases of old cameras (again, vintage), a modular case construction, and a more casual presence.
The new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H retains the 20% gain in barrel torque, the increased winding power of the minirotor thanks to the use of platinum, the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a reduction wheel that uncouples automatic winding when the watch is manually wound. Not only does this reduce wear, but energy-wise, the I performance of the new movement is further improved by a minute wheel suspended between bearing jewels to increase efficiency. But this all sounds easier than it actually is and accommodating both mechanisms “under one roof” came with its own set of technical challenges. The first being interaction: the date had to correspond with local time, or the time at the location of the wearer of the watch, which also had to adjust accordingly when the time zone is corrected.Thus,in the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function, and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar. This is like the principle of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater, which was the first of its kind to always sound local time because the World Time mechanism controls the minute repeater. And that’s not all, the Travel Time function of the new Ref. 5326-001 was also modified. For aesthetic reasons, Patek Philippe wanted a sleek design in the Calatrava style to emphasize the special motif on the case flanks (more on that later). Thus, the two common time zone pushers previously located at the left-hand side of the case were replaced with the same winding stem setting mechanism in three positions that premiered in 2021’s Aquanaut Luce Travel Time. The user merely pulls the crown to its middle position and turns it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the local-time hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Setting the time in the home-time zone, however, is done in the classic manner with the crown in the outermost position. Otherwise, the Travel Time functions just as it should with a pair of hour hands working independently from each other (solid hand for local time, pierced hand for home time).
In a first for Patek Philippe, these two patented complications have finally come together in one watch, thereby extending the Manufacture’s range of useful complication watches. That’s right, 2022 sees the introduction of the new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G-001 and it’s powered by a movement based on the one used to drive 2021’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236
And to properly accommodate this micromechanical wonder the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has been given an entirely new Calatrava case to reside within. Feeling like a breath of fresh air the new 41mm white gold Calatrava case features a slightly chamfered bezel and polished, inclined lugs, which underscores the sleek and timeless elegance of the Calatrava design while expressing its own distinct personality. In other words, the new Calatrava case is spectacular, and it has a lot to do with the case middle.
Another modification has to do with the Annual Calendar’s accelerated date jump, which reduces the usual 90-minute rollover time for the midnight date change to about 18 minutes. This allows users to see the correct date for longer periods of time and helps prevent accidental misalignment when mistakenly adjusting the time zone during this period.
Patek Philippe’s signature hobnail motif (a subtly shining pattern of tiny pyramids) was showcased on the bezel of the famous Ref. 3919 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 1985; it was produced for over 20 years to become one of the best-known models in the industry and was famously revived as the highly contemporary Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 2021. that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy but is only active when the crown is pulled to the outermost position. This prevents the movement from stopping when selecting a new time zone and preserves the rate accuracy of the movement. When not traveling, the pair of hour hands are superposed on top of each other looking for all intents and purposes like one hand.
In fact, to optimize the efficiency, precision, durability, safety, and operating convenience of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the engineers developed several technical innovations in the service of reducing wear and energy consumption that resulted in eight patent applications.
The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the architecture of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with the elegantly cut and gently curved bridges. It affords a better view of the wheels of the base movement and the exquisite manually executed finissage that reflects the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.
FEATURE
On the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time the hobnail guilloché motif embellishes the entire circumference of the case middle and even continues behind the sharp pyramid-like lugs, which are ingeniously attached to the caseback to accommodate the guilloché. This motif enhances the equally spectacular charcoal gray dial crafted entirely by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist owned by Patek Philippe since 2004. The dial boasts a vintage-camera-case-inspired granular texture and a gradient effect to the gray color, which darkens slightly as it reaches the outer periphery of the dial. Combined, these elements bring the retro theme to the fore, and are aspects associated with getaways, wanderlust, and exploration.
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Patek Philippe’s signature annual calendar dial arrangement once again makes an appearance here with the day of the week and month appearing on one line under 12 o'clock, while the date indication sits at 6 o'clock, all of which are highly legible with highly contrasting white backgrounds.
The new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time can be had immediately with two interchangeable straps. The first is in beige calfskin with a nubuck texture, while the second is a black calfskin affair with an embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching. Both enhance the vintage style of the case and dial, and both assure comfort and safety with a fold-over clasp in 18K white gold.
Further, this perfectly symmetrical arrangement is complemented by a subsidiary seconds that sweeps the moon-phase aperture at 6 o'clock. The calendar indications can be adjusted with the aid of small correctors in the caseband located near the respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o'clock. And in a final ode to vintage watches, the dial is protected by a raised box-design sapphire crystal.
The dial is enhanced by applied Arabic numerals in white gold with beige luminous material, while the hours and minutes of local time are indicated by luminous white gold “Seringue” hands that resemble syringes with their long tips. Home time, on the other hand, is indicated by a pierced “Seringue” hand, which, interestingly, is not accompanied by a 24-hour track. Instead, two small round windows marked “LOCAL” at 8 o'clock and “HOME” at 4 o'clock are day/night indicators for local time and home time respectively: white for day, blue for night.
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Indeed, given the amount of useful information on hand, the dial is incredibly balanced, legible, and astonishingly uncluttered.
"These elements bring the retro theme to the fore, and are aspects associated with getaways, wanderlust, and exploration."
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EMPIRE BUILDING
A partnership with the Louvre inspires a Métiers d’Art series Words by Kit Payumo ndeed, Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art department is in a class of its own with the manufacture’s veritable inhouse army of master craftsmen producing genuine works of wearable art. The brand has, in fact, perpetuated these traditional and often rare skills and often used them to create one-of-a-kind horological masterpieces.Whichiswhy when it was announced that Vacheron Constantin was joining forces with the Louvre in 2019 it was such a no-brainer there were many who asked why the two didn’t simply partner up to begin with. Whatever the case, it was the beginning of an artistic and cultural enterprise and it opened the door for both institutions to further showcase their greatest assets both artistically and historically. Both watchmaker and museum, in fact, share a concern for conservation, restoration and archiving, with the promise of perpetuating the related arts and crafts of whatever they were showcasing. This shared attachment to the past and the transmission of its knowledge has already paved the way for several joint initiatives by the two partners. Vacheron Constantin, for example, supported the restoration of the clock named La Création du Monde, a masterpiece of 18th century precision horology presented to King Louis XV in 1754.Then there was the “Bid for the Louvre,” which made headlines in 2020 when it was announced that a special lot in a Christie’s sale comprising Les Cabinotiers pièce-unique (a single-piece edition) would be awarded to a winning bidder who would then be allowed to commission a special Vacheron Constantin timepiece based on any masterpiece from the Louvre collection. The I winner would get a private tour of the world’s largest museum by a senior expert who would help curate the piece before working closely with the Métiers d’Art craftsmen to create the watch. This year, Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art collection once again invites us to travel through time and space with a new series of four watches that allows us to revisit some of the most important chapters in antiquity. More specifically the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to great civilizations is directly inspired by some of the most emblematic masterpieces of the Louvre with each watch taking inspiration from a specific era in ancient history. Best of all, since the timepieces are an artistic and cultural symbol of these eras, each timepiece will feature ornamentation lifted directly from the decorative arts of the corresponding period. These are further embellished with written elements, and the choice of techniques, the rare talents required to implement them, as well as the original composition of these timepieces guarantees something truly unique in horology and offers a genuine link to the greatest civilizations our world has ever known. Indeed, the four ancient civilizations selected were the ones that had the most significant impact to civilization, as we know it today. These civilizations gave us writing, democracy, philosophical thought, monumental architecture and incomparable artistic achievements. In fact, our language originated from them; our customs were influenced by them; and our political organizations, as well as our vision of the world in general is inspired by them. These ancient civilizations are the Persian Empire under Darius the Great; the Egypt of the pharaohs from the time of the Middle Kingdom; the Hellenistic period in Greece; and the birth of
The Grand Sphinx de Tanis watch for example features an enamel dial with a mixture of deep blue and black enamels obtained after six firings in a kiln, the decorative dial elements of which are inspired by the necklace depicted on the cartonnage coffin of Nakht-khonsou-irou. An engraving made of carved gold applique of the head of the sphinx takes pride of place, while under it, a winged hawk with a ram’s head appears and the plumage of its wings is picked up on the dial – again in champlevé enamel. The last cultural component is the sapphire crystal bearing the gold applique engraved by metallization with hieroglyphic inscriptions from the cartouche of the pharaoh Menenptah.
Grand sphinx de Tanis Victoire de Samothrace Buste d’ Auguste Lion de Darius
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the Roman Empire with the advent of Augustus, the selection of which was based on four main themes encompassing as many great periods and ancient civilizations as possible. Thanks to the richness and originality of the themes, it was almost impossible for the four timepieces representing them not to be of remarkable quality andIndeed,execution.each of these great civilizations is represented by a major artistic work drawn from some of the Louvre’s masterpieces including Roman mosaics; a painted Egyptian coffin; painted or bas-relief sculpted Greek ceramics and vases; and a frieze of Babylonian-inspired bricks with colored glazes. A sapphire crystal bearing a sculpted gold applique depicting one of the four major works of ancient period art is then placed on the dial. This same slightly smoked crystal is also engraved using metallization with texts in cuneiform, hieroglyphic, ancient Greek and Latin script, depending on the model.
The Lion de Darius watch features an engraved metal & champlevé enamel frieze of a lion frieze, an important figure in Persian iconography found in the Palace of Darius in Susa. Its background is a decoration of glazed bricks affixed to a wall depicted by astonishing stone marquetry by the artisans. Further, the frieze surrounding the dial was inspired by the decoration of another well-known work from the Palace of Darius:
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with an oak wreath. Its dial is enamelled in bluegreen, while its periphery is adorned with stone micro-mosaic of a famous fourth-century mosaic discovered in Lod, Israel. This was extremely difficult to execute as any error in the positioning and gluing of no less than seven different types of stones (660 in all) would have required reenamelling the Grand Feu dial used as a base. For the outer frieze in white gold, featuring line engraving and patinated by firing in the kiln, another mosaic served as inspiration: the one depicting animals playing musical instruments, also from the fourth century and discovered in Sousse, a port city in eastern Tunisia. Last but not least, the Latin script engraved on the sapphire crystal are drawn from a dedication addressed to the Genius (divine protector) of the city of Rusicada (Skikda in Algeria). The text commemorates its installation by a local dignitary who opens his invocation with a tribute to the Becauseemperor.ofall the artisanal skills lavished on these four Tribute To Great Civilizations models, the watchmakers turned to the 2460 G4/2 calibre, which makes without the use of hands to convey the time, and instead displays the hours, minutes, date, and day via four discreet apertures placed respectively at the four “corners” of the dial to offer the most unobstructed view of these incredible wearable works of art. The four apertures are the hours between 11 and 12 o’clock, minutes between 1 and 2 o’clock, days between 7 and 8 o’clock and the date between 4 and 5 Thiso’clock.self-winding movement, entirely developed and crafted by the Maison, is indeed perfect for the types of dials made here, and has in fact been used extensively in the Métiers d’Art collection. This 237-part movement oscillates at a frequency of 4Hz (or 28,800 Vph), features 27 jewels, and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. Speaking of which. The oscillating rotor at the back of the movement has also received special attention. It features a depiction (based on an 18th century lithograph) of the east facade of the Louvre and its magnificent colonnade inspired by the work of Louis Le Vau and Claude Perrault, based on an 18th century etching. The matrix of the design was hand-sculpted and then used to stamp the twenty oscillating weights composing the series. These being Vacheron Constantin timepieces each piece in the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to great civilizations is certified with the Hallmark of Geneva, and is an extremely limited series of only 5 timepieces per model. the Frieze of Archers. This ornamentation, consisting of a juxtaposition of triangles, is made of engraved metal and champlevé enamel. The writing elements engraved by metallization on the sapphire crystal, on the other hand, are taken from a tablet inscribed in Old Persian. Indeed, this text in cuneiform script is one of the first written by Darius upon his arrival in power. Then there is the statue of Victory, which is a winged goddess resting on the prow of a Greek warship, an applied depiction of which features prominently on the Victoire de Samothrace watch. Indeed, the drapery of the statue, ruffled by the wind with a large flow of fabric falling in deep folds between the legs, represented a particular challenge to the engraver charged to reproduce all of its subtleties. The dial itself is enamelled in brown, a very difficult color to achieve and required the use of rare enamels no long in production, as well as six firings in a kiln. The periphery features grisaille enamelling depicting the decorative friezes taken from two Greek vases and is surrounded by a gold frieze adorned using the line engraving technique, inspired by that of the Vase of Pergamon, a first century BC masterpiece of marble sculpted in bas-relief. Last but not least, the ancient Greek script engraved by metallization on the sapphire crystal is a dedication to the Great Gods of Samothrace discovered in the Temple of Samothrace. Finally, the Buste d’Auguste watch features a carved gold appliqué bust of Octavian Augustus, the adopted son of Caesar, here shown crowned www.calibremagazine.com
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KISOJI NO AMIDA-GA-TAKIOKU
Japanese artists who elevated the ancient practice of woodblock printing from a popular, “low” art form to the highest form of the arts thanks to color, composition, and inventive selections of subject matter (he specialized in unique subjects, to say the least. See the woodblock print series, “The Dream of the Fisherman’s Wife” to understand what we Completedmean).between 1833 and 1834, Shokoku taki meguri is a series of landscape woodblock prints acclaimed for its innovative and expressive depictions, and was the first ukiyo-e series to depict the theme of falling water. Indeed, a waterfall scene dominates every single woodblock, dwarfing the humans that share each scene, and are powerfully rendered by Hokusai to reflect his animalistic beliefs.
For “The Amida Falls in the Far Reaches of the Kisokaidō Road,” Hosukai combines two different www.calibremagazine.com
Words by Kit Payumo he above title translates to “The Amida Falls in the Far Reaches of the Kisokaidō Road,” which is a wood block print and the bestknown work from Shokoku taki meguri (A Tour of Waterfalls in Various Provinces), a series of eight woodblock prints created in 1833-34 by Katsushika Hokusai, Japan’s most celebrated 19th-century artist. Perhaps more famously known for another landmark woodblock print series, “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji,” which includes the iconic print, “The Great Wave off Kanagawa,” Katsushika Hokusai, known simply as Hokusai, was a Japanese ukiyo-e artist of the Edo period between 1603 and 1867. Indeed, no other name looms larger than Hokusai in the history of Japanese art. Active between the late 1700s and early to mid-1800s, Hosukai was among a handful of T
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Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to Japan’s most celebrated 19th-century artist
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and skill. First, the dial plate must be held at a carefully calculated angle. Then, each of the 60 lines that make up the pattern requires three passages of the lathe for a total of 600 passages altogether. For every passage, the plate must be held at precisely the same angle to ensure that the lines are crisply etched and the pattern is perfectly symmetrical. This process alone requires around four hours of extremely focused work, and is followed by the application of at least six layers of translucent enamel, each of which requires separate firing, spanning more than a week. Once the enamelling has been completed, the final challenge is the faultless application of the indexes (which requires tiny holes to be drilled through the pristine surface of the enamel) and the transfer of the chemin de fer minutes register. Otherwise the 27.4mm by 45.5mm tonneau case of the manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘Amida Falls’ is pure, and classic Reverso. This includes the Streamline Moderne form with its signature short flowing lugs; its distinctive grooves at 12 and 6 o’clock; and the Reverso’s signature rotating central case assembly, rendered here in bright white gold. In his long and successful career, Hokusai produced over 30,000 paintings, sketches, woodblock prints, and images for picture books. Innovative in his compositions and exceptional in his drawing technique, Hokusai was one of a kind, and is considered one of the greatest masters in the history of art. Which is why to properly pay tribute to the master the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘Amida Falls’ is a limited edition of only 10 pieces and is initially offered only in his beloved Japan. It concludes the trilogy of Reverso Tribute Enamel timepieces that pay homage to Hokusai and his ‘Waterfalls’ series, and comes after the tribute to the artist’s most famous work, The Great Wave off Kanagawa (Kanagawa oki nama ura) in 2018; and Kirifuri Waterfall at Kurokami Mountain in Shimotsuke (Shimotsuke Kurokamiyama Kirifuri-no-taki) in 2021. Hosukai would approve. points of view within one scene. The first, at the top of the print, a round gorge is shown right before the falls, which many historians believe is meant to represent the head of Buddha. This is why they theorize that it was rendered slightly off-kilter, and with a sense of mystery by Hosukai, depicting it from a bird’s eye view. This contrasts wildly with the rest of the scene, which is shown from a “normal” perspective and shown from the front. Indeed, the print has been called “a masterpiece of landscape art.” This is why in continuing the dialogue between Eastern and Western artistic traditions that La Grande Maison has embraced throughout its history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘Amida Falls,’ which pays tribute to the Japanese master by featuring a caseback decorated and handenamelled with a miniature reproduction of the Kisoji no oku Amida-ga-taki (The Amida Falls in the Far Reaches of the Kisokaidō Road).
And that was no easy task, because not only did the in-house artisans have to capture the power of Hokusai’s original image and faithfully reproduce every single detail on a surface just three square centimeters small (that’s a little more than one-tenth the size of the original), but they also had to create the illusion of the woodblock printing technique, a very specific effect entirely different from enamelling. And they did this by developing a special technique that mimics the characteristic bokashi effect of the subtly nuanced and graduated colors that were originally printed on paper, while also capturing the vivid blues and yellows of Hokusai’s work. Indeed, this carefully orchestrated process with many stages represents a full 70 hours of work over the course of many weeks, and this includes a total of 12 to 15 separate firings in a kiln at 800° Celsius. But wait there’s more. The Reverso Tribute dial did its share in giving tribute. Complementing the miniature painting on the case back, the dial is decorated with a guilloché lozenge pattern, the texture of which is amplified by translucent Grand Feu enamel in a rich shade of green. Executed by hand and using a century-old lathe, the lozenge pattern requires great dexterity
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Second(Split)Time’sACharm
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The 1815 RATTRAPANTE once again puts the spotlight on the complication Words by Kit Payumo ince their relaunch in 1994, we’ve seen master watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne not only master the venerable rattrapante chronograph, they’ve put their own spin on it. Not only did we get the DATOGRAPH in 1999, but in 2004 we were given the DOUBLE SPLIT, a double rattrapante chronograph that extended the range of intermediate time measurements from 60 seconds to 30 minutes. Then in 2018, we experienced the TRIPLE SPLIT, which added a third, separately stoppable hand pair, which not only allowed the rattrapante chronograph to extend timing measurements to up to 12 hours, but also became the benchmark for rattrapante chronographs in the industry. But it was two years ago in 2020 that the premier Saxon watchmaker decided to go “back to basics” and put the focus back on the titular complication. And they did this by honoring Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the man who laid the foundations of Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry when he created his own manufactory in Glashütte in 1845…a manufactory that would become A. Lange & Söhne in 1868. Indeed, it can be argued that German watchmaking was born on February 18, 1815, the day Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born, and to pay homage to the watchmaker and legend, A. Lange & Söhne created the 1815 collection.
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Meant as a testimony to Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s brilliance, the 1815 collection is an acknowledgment of the history and tradition passed down by Lange and his family. As a whole, the 1815 collection represents the mastery of Germany’s overall precision watchmaking industry in Glashütte, and is characterized by traditional German watchmaking elements, such as blued hands, Arabic numerals, and the railwaytrack minute scale. Indeed, the 1815 collection is a worthy ambassador of the master’s enduring watchmaking heritage. Which is why in 2020, A. Lange & Söhne once again turned to the 1815 collection to pay homage to the extraordinary man that started it all with the introduction of three limited edition models of the 1815 watch family. Crafted in the brandexclusive alloy called Honeygold, the three limited editions were called “Homage to F. A. Lange,” and made their debut at the 2020 edition of the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai. The first was the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD, and the third was the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD; but it was the second limited edition that concerns us today. The 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD was the only new watch of the threesome, and was a limited edition of only 100 pieces available exclusively at A. Lange & Söhne boutiques. But it was especially significant because this was the first time the Saxon watchmaker put the spotlight on the complication. Indeed, we’ve seen Lange rattrapante chronographs before, but this was the first time A. Lange & Söhne created a rattrapante-only timepiece. This year, the rattrapante chronograph takes the spotlight again, but this time it’s dressed to the nines in Platinum, and limited to only 200 pieces. 2020 sees the 1815 RATTRAPANTE in a noble 41.2mm platinum case, and in many ways is all the better for it. Indeed, the 1815 RATTRAPANTE’s entire reason for existence
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dark blued hands that assures perfect legibility; and peripheral tachometer scale that allows average speeds to be determined. Indeed, all the traditional German watchmaking elements including the peripheral railway-track minute scale and the classic Arabic numerals are present and accounted for in the 1815 RATTRAPANTE, which clearly reflects the historic Lange pocket watches that the 1815 collection pays homage to. Discretely ticking away inside its platinum cocoon is the equally new(ish) Calibre L101.2 movement, which precisely controls the measurement of elapsed and lap-times in the classic manner with two column wheels. Considered to be one of the most elaborate devices in modern precision watchmaking, the 365-part movement was extremely complex to design, manufacture, and calibrate, and takes over is to have a watch entirely devoted to the complication, and its case reflects that. Being an “old school” watchmaker, A. Lange & Söhne’s entire approach to watchmaking has always been to put the movement at the forefront. It makes sense then that their notion of case materials has that same old school point of view: to protect the movement.Thus,the 950 platinum case of the new(ish) 1815 RATTRAPANTE is as solidly constructed as anything the premier Saxon watchmaker has ever forged, and has resulted in a typically grey-blue colored watch that is as stunning as it is stolid. As a consequence the new watch looks even more traditional, and more in line with the 1815 collection than its 2020 Anniversary Honeygold cousin. This is made even more apparent with its bright argenté-colored dial; contrasting the from the Calibre L101.1, which used to power the Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
Best of all, the development of this new movement made it possible for the watchmakers to freely choose the positions of the subsidiary dials. Instead of the usual positions at 3 and 9 o’clock, the 30-minute counter and the subsidiary seconds dial are on the vertical center axis, at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively. This symmetric arrangement makes the 1815 RATTRAPANTE as balanced and expressive as they come.
In connection with the screw balance (also manufactured in-house), the freely oscillating Lange balance spring guarantees excellent rate accuracy at a frequency of 21,600 semioscillations per hour (3 hertz), while the mainspring barrel delivers a power reserve of 58 hours when fully wound. Naturally, the entire rattrapante chronograph mechanism has been made visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, thereby making the entire complex switching process to be observed in loving detail.
And this being an A. Lange & Söhne timepiece, the artisanal finish of calibre L101.2 is beyond reproach and recalls the historic pocket watches in the 1A quality category (the highest quality category of Lange’s pocket watches). These finishings include bridges and cocks made of untreated German silver, a screw balance, screwed gold chatons that secure the jewels and a hand-engraved balance cock. Paired with the latest-generation watchmaking skills, these traditional elements unite to form a micromechanical fusion of the arts.
Further, all the moving parts of the rattrapante chronograph, such as the levers, springs, and jumpers are decorated with straight graining while the peripheral chamfers are polished. In fact, bevel polishing re-entrant angles is a particular challenge for the finishing specialists, and only highly experienced artisans can polish the corners with such Indeed,expertise.asisthepractice of the Saxon watchmaker, the calibre L101.2 movement was manually assembled twice, and has a level of finishing that reflects a tradition began by Ferdinand Adolph Lange with movements that have always stood out with prominent design elements as well as incomparable aesthetic details. As mentioned previously, the 1815 RATTRAPANTE is a limited edition with only 200 pieces to be issued globally. This all silver affair is worn on a black alligator strap fastened by a platinum prong buckle.
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Revisiting one of the brand’s most iconic collections.
Words by Bert Casal ccording to Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer, there is a legend that tells of Jack Heuer’s 1958 Swiss rally race where he dropped from first place to third because he was unable to read the dashboard timer correctly. Infuriated by his loss, Jack Heuer was set on improving the readability of the timer. Fueled by his love of modern design, he set out to create an incredibly legible watch.
In 1962, Mr. Heuer heard about the most dangerous car race in the world: the Carrera Panamericana. The Spanish word “Carrera,” depending on how it is used, can either mean road, race, career, or course. He thought that this would be the perfect name for his new timepiece.
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The following year, in 1963, Jack Heuer launched the Carrera line. It had a radically different look from what the company had produced before. His new Carrera line focused on typography for better legibility. Its design language was so clear and minimal, the wearer could focus on reading the time with incredible ease with no chance of confusion. And from then on, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection has become the ultimate showcase for the brand’s fascinating motor racing heritage. Its timeless, sporty, and elegant designs have been a benchmark for motor racing timepieces.
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In the early 2000s, the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands version was introduced, and since that time, this line has been the embodiment of TAG Heuer’s unwavering quest for perfect readability and clarity. This year, TAG Heuer is proud to announce the updated version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands. The new collection features four versions, each with its own iterations to suit the wearer’s needs and preferences. The new generation Three Hands watches are equipped with he brand new H-shaped links, an innovative design which is more ergonomic and comfortable on the wrist. www.calibremagazine.com
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29 mm
The date is situated at the 6 o’clock position. It has 4 dial versions: a black sunray-snailed dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes, a black sunray-snailed dial with rose gold hands and indexes, a blue sunray brushed dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes, and a silver sunray-brushed dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm
The TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29 mm utilises the Calibre 9 automatic movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 40 hours. Its steel case is polished and carries a sapphire crystal with double antireflective treatment. It comes in four dial versions: two dials in sunray brushed blue (one with rhodium-plated indexes and the other with diamond hour markers), and two dials in mother-of-pearl dials (one with rhodium-plated indexes and the other with diamond hour markers).
The TAG Heuer Carrera 39 mm carries the Calibre 5 automatic movement that has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch has a new H-shaped bracelet for the steel version and a brown alligator leather strap for the leather version.
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TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41 mm
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This piece is equipped with the Calibre 7 automatic movement. The blue sunray brushed dial offers bolder hour and minute hands and has a refined Twin-Time hand tip. The elegant and sporty design is highlighted by a new, refined flange in bicolour, silver and blue, to indicate day andThisnight.model comes in only one variation and, as with the rest of the collection, carries the new H-shaped bracelet. www.calibremagazine.com
TAG Heuer Twin-TimeCarreraDate 41 mm
This model carries the Calibre 5 automatic movement that has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, a rapid date correction, and a power reserve of 38 hours. The day and date aperture is placed at the 3 o’clock position. It comes in four dial versions: two in black, with one having rhodium-plated hands and indexes while the other bearing rose gold plated hands and indexes; a blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes; and a silver sunray brushed dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes.
FOUNDATION AND ARCHITECTURE Greubel Forsey presents a city on the wrist Words by Kit Payumo 68 | www.calibremagazine.com FEATURE
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Described as a new convex conical frustrum shape by the watchmaker, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture looks like any normal round watch when viewed straight on from above. Things change radically, however, when the timepiece is viewed from any other angle. Suddenly, its convex, ovoid shape is revealed (one imagines a potato chip). And along with its large curved sapphire crystal, the case in its entirety was designed to mimic the curve of the human wrist and to ensure a snug and comfortable fit.
In the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture, the diameter around the caseback (47.05mm) is wider than it is around the bezel (45.50mm), thus once again combining the best of two worlds: It contains enough volume to fully showcase the movement architecture within, while at the same time giving the impression of being significantly smaller than it actually is. Finally, the 50m waterresistant titanium case features three-dimensional, “The real star of the show is the manually
ndeed, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is unlike any timepiece Greubel Forsey has ever created. It is almost urban-like in its planning with a cityscape of 354 parts sculpted and arranged asymmetrically yet harmoniously. Each component occupies its own three-dimensional space like the buildings and structures of a megametropolitan city yet are arranged technically and aesthetically, in harmony with all the other "buildings" around it. Indeed, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is urban and vibrant. It is a marvel of contemporary design and yet another physical manifestation of the Greubel Forsey Art of HeadyInvention.words, which even if paraphrased from Greubel Forsey’s own press material is not at all inaccurate. Those familiar with the watchmakers will know that they literally have one foot in the past and one foot in the future, and their timepieces are extreme representations of the two worlds Greubel Forsey occupies. And I this representation seems to take the form of structures and architecture. Take a look at any Greubel Forsey timepiece and this becomes immediately evident. Indeed, look no further than their own manufacture and corporate headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which is a disparate anachronism if there ever was one. Built into a 17th century farmhouse, the structure is an amalgam of the past and the future. On one end is the original 300-year-old farmhouse that was meticulously restored. This houses the corporate side of the company, while the expansion at the other end is a modern steel and glass enclosed structure with all the modern trappings of a state-of-the-art watchmaking atelier (think The Louvre with I.M. Pei’s glass and steel pyramid in the middle of everything.). It’s no wonder then that Greubel Forsey’s latest is yet another architectural representation of the past and the future. Just take a gander at the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture’s new(ish) ultra-modern titanium case, which, aside from the large opening on the dial side, features multiple sapphire crystal inserts that act as windows into the movement. And while lateral sapphire crystal apertures have become a Greubel Forsey signature, the watchmakers have never executed it to this extent. Thus, the movement is visible from every angle around the caseband, whether it be above, below, and from every side. And this is where things get visually arresting.
movement.SecondesTourbillonwound24ArchitectureItspolishedtitaniumbridgesemergeseeminglyoutofnowhereandimmediatelystandoutfromthefrostedfinishofthemainplate”
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variable geometry lugs, hand-polished with handfinished straight graining. These flow seamlessly into a rubber strap with an embossed text and finished with a titanium folding clasp. But new innovative case design aside, Greubel Forsey has always been about their movements, which is why the real star of the show is the manually wound Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture movement. Its polished titanium bridges emerge seemingly out of nowhere and immediately stand out from the frosted finish of the mainplate as they wind their way through the movement to stand proudly and almost flush with the sapphire crystal. At 6 o'clock, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes is inclined to defy gravity, while it compensates for it. The escapement is moored from a large spherical and openworked bridge, the base of which remains hidden by design. Indeed, to solve lacquered and circular grained, and contains three coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels, one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. At the center of the movement is where the two large curved, open-worked and polished hour and minutes hands reside. They are mounted on the brand’s signature tripod bridge, and are complemented at 8 o’clock by a small second on a cylinder with polished flanks, which mirrors all the other components within its vicinity.
Typical of Greubel Forsey’s attitude towards exclusivity, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is an extremely limited edition of only 11 pieces… this year! From 2023 to 2025, however, the watchmaker has conceded to add 7 pieces more every year for a total of 18 pieces per year. This brings the overall tally of 65 exclusive timepieces in the next four years. the problem of critical positions of the oscillator in relation to gravity, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes features a 25° inclination as well as a fast rotation speed. Combined, these two elements contribute to excellent chronometric performance, especially in stable Comprisingpositions.atotal of 440 parts (including the tourbillon cage), the manual-wound Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture movement oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, and has up to 90 hours of Chronomatic power reserve when fully wound as indicated by a moving red triangle over a conical disc at 3 o’clock, which is held in place by a polished titanium bridge. Speaking of which, the barrel bridge at 10 o’clock is sculpted with polished spherical surfaces, along with polished beveling and countersinks. The barrel cover is engraved, www.calibremagazine.com
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ORIS backs an ambitious non-profit aiming to restore New York Harbor Words by Kit Payumo nd they are doing this in a rather circuitous way by restoring something that LIVES in the harbor, which in this case are oysters. That’s right, oysters! Intent on reversing the effects of climate change, Oris has taken the challenge of cleaning up the world’s main source of life: water. “We’re passionate about cleaning, restoring and protecting water,” said the watchmaker. “We’ve brought stories and watches to life around a water monitoring station on Lake Baikal, coral restoration programs in Australia and Florida, and initiatives ridding our oceans of plastic.”
Indeed, Climate Partner (a leading solutions provider for climate action) certified Oris as a climate neutral company in 2021. “We’ve since released our first sustainability report, a ‘square one’ that details our carbon footprint, how we’re offsetting it, and how we’re going to reduce it by 10 per cent a year for the next three years,” says Oris. “Today, sustainability and Change for the Better are a core attitude at Oris. They impact every product we release, every decision we make — everything we do.”
And one of the most important projects they have supported to date is the Billion Oyster Project, a non-profit organization intent on rehabilitating New York Harbor, once one of the world’s most polluted waterways. More specifically, the project aims to restore one billion oysters to the city’s waterways by the year 2035. And why such a specific animal? Because oysters are filter feeders, and an adult oyster can filter as much as 50 gallons of water every day. Not to mention oyster colonies create ecosystems for other marine life and the reefs oysters form help protect shorelines from storm surges making them natural storm barriers. Indeed, oyster reefs are to an ocean what trees are to a forest.
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Pete Malinowski, executive director and co-founder of Billion Oyster Project www.calibremagazine.com
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The Billion Oyster Project began in 2014 but was started by the students of the New York Harbor School on Governors Island, who started rehabilitating and restoring the oyster population in New York Harbor in 2008. Indeed, the school continues to be the main educational partner of the non-profit and continues to involve students through internships and waterfront experience via seven Career and Technical Education (CTE) programs. And to support the project and the school, Oris has released the New York Harbor Limited Edition, a 2,000-piece limited edition timepiece based on the high-performance Aquis diver’s watch. An appropriately all-green affair, the New York Harbor Limited Edition sits squarely in the collection’s medium-sized 41.5mm stainless steel case section. What seems glaringly odd though is the use of mother-of-pearl for the dial material. Sure, this speaks volumes about what the watch is trying to reference but isn’t it too much of an ironic reference? Aren’t they out to save the oysters to begin with? Say what you will about corporate “greenwashing” but once you get over the glaring irony the New York Harbor Limited Edition’s allgreen color way is actually quite pleasing to the eye. And this has a lot to do with the yellow green dial color chosen to mimic the color of the waters
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Unfortunately, as New York city grew into the trade, shipping, and financial juggernaut that it is today, the harbor became a dumping ground for sewage, industrial waste and other major pollutants. According to the Nature Conservancy (which also sponsors the Billion Oyster Project), “A staggering 85% of oyster reefs have been lost in the last 200 years due to pollution, disease, drought, and habitat loss.” Indeed, these factors have made oyster reefs the single most endangered marine habitat on the planet. In fact, the current population of oysters in the Hudson-Raritan Estuary (which includes New York Harbor) is estimated to be less than 0.01 percent from its peak. And we haven’t even mentioned the people yet! That’s right, the growing population developed a taste for (egad) oysters! Once again demonstrating that the greed and hubris of man knows no bounds.
Another difference from the “regular” Aquis is a stainless-steel bezel with a 60-minute dive scale executed in relief instead of the “basic” colored ceramic bezel. A solid caseback also executed in relief featuring the embossed profile of three oysters makes the cut as well. Otherwise, this is technically the same Oris Aquis including the Sellita-based Oris calibre 733 ticking away inside.
of New York Harbor. This is bolstered by a green rubber strap in the same hue, the combination of which is a refreshing alternative from the typical military shade popular today. Indeed, the mother-of-pearl provides a wave-like sheen when struck by light that makes its use quite fitting considering its aquatic inspiration.
“An appropriately allgreen affair, the New York Harbor Limited Edition sits squarely in the steel41.5mmmedium-sizedcollection’sstainlesscasesection.”
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As previously mentioned, the Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition is limited to only 2,000 pieces worldwide. Aside from the green rubber strap, it comes with a multi-piece stainless steel bracelet and a strap changing tool, and like any limited edition worth its salt is a significant upcharge from the regular non-limited-edition model. It’s all for a good cause anyway.
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WONDERSLITTLE
The thesignificantprovesPanoMaticCalendarthatlife’smostmomentsarelittleones
Words by Kit Payumo lashütte Original has suggested that significant events in our lives make us who we are. They further suggest that these milestones can be both great and small, as well as extraordinary and everyday. In fact, it may actually be the small and everyday moments that make the biggest impact in our lives because it is these little fleeting moments that afford a touch or a whisper of joy and happiness that make the most significant mark. Saxon watchmaker Glashütte Original wants to bring these special moments to the fore, and they are doing this by indelibly tying time with emotion. And to demonstrate just how special these milestones are, Glashütte Original has released a grand complication the watchmaker has never attempted before.
For Glashütte Original time comes in the form of modern mechanics implemented in an elegant and original manner. The latest and brightest iteration of which is the new Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar, the watchmaker’s first ever annual calendar, which in keeping with the signature design cues of the Pano line is a highly elegant balance between complication and simplicity. The latter is in the form of a complex yet surprisingly legible dial, while the former is in the form of a new in-house movement.
“The watchmaker’s first ever annual calendar, which in keeping with the signature design cues of the Pano line is a highly elegant balance between complication and simplicity”
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Yet it is no surprise that the new PanoMaticCalendar looks endearingly familiar since it shares all its aesthetic cues with the rest of the Pano collection, most especially its asymmetrical layout. This means the PanoMaticCalendar features an off-center layout with the main hour and minutes subdial at 10 o’clock; this is overlapped by a smaller seconds subdial at 7 o’clock; while the moon phase sits below the main subdial at 2 o’clock. Sound familiar? That’s because we just described the PanoMaticLunar, its equally distinct, and equally spectacular sibling. The PanoMaticCalendar, however, brings innovative calendar displays to theAsequation.mentioned before, the PanoMaticCalendar is an annual calendar making it less complicated but inherently more practical than a perpetual calendar. This is because an annual calendar also takes the different lengths of the months into account albeit with one catch: unlike a perpetual calendar, which can conceivably display the correct date mechanically for an entire lifetime, an annual calendar needs to be adjusted once a
Typical of Glashütte Original, the meticulously built movement is finished to an astoundingly meticulous degree. Indeed, it is built using innovative techniques, then finished and regulated by hand, all of which are then put on display via the sapphire crystal caseback. The result is the PanoMaticCalendar, Glashütte Original’s latest timepiece that ensures the littlest moments are forever remembered.
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year (thus the name) on March 1 to account for the shorter month of February. And for those who just slumped their shoulders in disappointment consider this: this less complex complication means an annual calendar is less sensitive than a perpetual calendar making it more efficient, more reliable, and most especially more suitable for everyday use…at a fraction of a perpetual calendar’s cost. On the PanoMaticCalendar the date is primarily indicated by Glashütte Original’s signature Panorama Date display at 4 o’clock. But the real star, however, is the 12-month indication at the periphery of the dial between 3 and 6 o’clock. This innovative indication required a larger diameter size of 42mm for the PanoMaticCalendar and recalls a retrograde time display in looks even if not in function. Instead it features a black disc set on a single ball bearing that slides underneath the dial to highlight the current month. Best of all, the presence of the 12 months in Arabic numerals reflect the numerals of the small seconds, the moon phase and the Panorama Date ensuring uniformity to the dial. The only thing missing here is a day-of-week indication but considering the elegant simplicity of the dial this might be too much to ask for. Curiously, gone are the German-language labels such as Mondphase and PanoramaDatum found on the PanoMaticLunar, which depending on personal preferences could be a bad or a good thing. A nice addition, however, is a sloping flange around the dial that adds a bit of threedimensionality to the PanoMaticCalendar that is not present on other Pano models. At launch, the PanoMaticCalendar can be had in two technically similar editions, but while both versions share the larger 42mm diameter compared to the other watches in the Pano collection, both editions couldn’t be more different. The first is the “standard” PanoMaticCalendar and is a red gold affair highlighted by a sublime silver opaline dial, and matched with a brown Louisiana Alligator nubuck leather strap. The second version, however, couldn’t be more aesthetically different and is a 150-piece limited edition forged in elegant platinum with a skeletonized galvanic black dial and matched with a black strap also in soft Louisiana Alligator nubuckKnowingleather.the Saxon watchmaker’s in-house manufacturing capabilities, the two new manufactory movements driving both versions appears to be modified versions of their own impressive caliber 90. Dubbed Calibre 92-09 for the red gold version, and the Calibre 92-10 for the partially skeletonized platinum model. The movements are rhodium plated with galvanized coats in an elegant shade of black rhodium making the limited edition particularly striking; otherwise both movements are technically similar. Both feature a silicon balance spring, which is unaffected by changes in temperature or magnetic fields; oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 halfoscillations per hour to deliver exceptional rate precision; and are paired with a remarkable running time of 100 hours courtesy of a single large barrel that ensures double the power reserve of the PanoMatic Lunar. Further, the new movement has been completely redesigned to ensure maximum user friendliness and durability. The retrograde month display, for example, combines contemporary design with complex mechanics and can be easily set, just like the date, via the crown (the moon phase, however, is adjusted via a stylus and pusher that’s set flush against the case above the crown).
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TRUE ART IN THE FINEST OF DETAILS A collaboration of fine watchmaking and Japanese artistry. Words by Bert Casal www.calibremagazine.com | 81
Roger Dubuis x Sorayama by LEON
Roger Dubuis recognised the opportunity to infuse his realistic and expressive signature design, so they invited Sorayama to the Manufacture to take on the creative challenge of reinterpreting the design of the Maison’s Urban Culture Tribe collection. Together, they produced the latest timepiece: the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. Reinterprating the Excalibur MB with hyper expressivity and sophistication, the artist chose to be provocative by breaking the Maison’s design codes. Curvy lines and a full shine finish contrast the sharp design and finishes Roger Dubuis normally applies to its watches. From his own iconic creations, Sorayama expressed his 3D sculptures within the polished titanium finish. This striking aesthetic required the Maison’s highly skilled watchmakers to develop unusual processes to replicate the desired shiny effect.
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oger Dubuis has been known to gather inspiration from the most unexpected places. That’s what makes them unique, what elevates them from the flock. This time around, their inspiration has led them to a Japanese urban culture artist who shares their values to “break the rules.” The artist’s name is Hajime Sorayama Hajime Sorayama is known for his fine art, his illustrations, and his industrial designs. He published his first book, Sexy Robot, in 1983. His inspiration for this book was taken from pin-up art, expressed as chrome-plated feminine robots. In the 2000s, Sorayama’s first-generation AIBO received the Grand Prize of Best Design award R in Japan. AIBO was a robotic dog, the robotics of which were developed by Sony’s Toshitada Doi. It was the first “artificially intelligent” mass market consumer robot for entertainment applications. Sorayama also got to work with Nike on the “White Dunk Project.” And in 2014, he was called upon by filmmaker George Lucas to create a spread of droid fantasy pin-ups for a tribute art book entitled Star Wars Art Concept This Japanese artist has showcased his expertise time and time again, continuing on what he has been doing since he was a young boy in school. His talent has been rewarded multiple times, and his artwork allowed him to collaborate with the biggest names in fashion, technology, and even music.
co-createdSorayama“Hajime a timepiece that merges one radical world with another.”
To add a little play with light to the timepiece, Sorayama reimagined the micro rotor to create a captivating and endless rippling effect. To achieve this required months of in-house prototyping, just to get the right combination of materials, decorations, and finishes. A touch of artistry from the Japanese master is seen on the extremely precise and optimal distance between each line of the stamped décor, which took a three hourlong guilloché technique on specific parts of the micro rotor, as well as an innovative assembly process placing a stamped sapphire dial above the reimagined micro rotor.
The Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier houses the RD720SQ automatic calibre. One of the improvements to this movement is the increase in power reserve to 72 hours. The micro rotor has also been optimised to minimise vibrations. The balance wheel was also modified to improve stability and make it less sensitive to shocks. Better efficiency and energy transmission was further increased through the use of a new lube, and by optimising the shape of the escapement wheel, pairing it with adjustable pallet stones and constructing both elements from diamond-coated silicon. This new timepiece is also the first Roger Dubuis titanium grade 5 bracelet to feature its Quick Release System for ease and versatility. The 42 mm case is crafted from titanium grade 5 as well. But the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier is not just a work of art, it is also awarded with the Poinçon de Genève — one of the most exclusive stamps of certification in the watchmaking world. This beautiful wristwatch is limited to just 28 pieces. Complying with the rules is not always the best course of action. There are very rare occasions when rejecting the rules to let creativity blossom works, as embodied by the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier.
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Colorful Beauty BRING VIBRANCE TO YOUR LIFE Words by Katherine Cunanan FEATURE 84 | www.calibremagazine.com
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Legacy Machine Flying T Tiger Eye Legacy Machine Flying T Malachite Legacy Machine Flying T Lapis Lazuli
We all benefited from the ‘creating for myself’ mindset because it turns we all want what he wanted — sculptural kinetic art. He envisioned
“...three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time.”
That is not a surprise though because back in 2019 with the initial release of the Legacy Machine FlyingT, we had watch lovers with the same reaction. The watch was definitely eyecatching, with the domed crystal and fantastic gems. It fulfilled the brief of MB&F creations: as Maximilian Büsser says, “I created MB&F to do what I believe in, making three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time. I was creating for myself, which is the only way we could have made all these crazy and audacious pieces over the years.”
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e are more than halfway through this year, and maybe we need a little pick-me-up. A little something to pique our interest, make us catch our breath, and spark our joy. Thanks to Max and his Friends at MB&F, the recent editions of the Legacy Machine FlyingT fit the bill quite nicely.
W timepieces that were out-of-the-box (to put it mildly) and incredibly luxurious. His stint in the jewellery industry exposed him to the best gems and he saw no need to work in horology with less than that. The watches from MB&F have the most dazzling perfect gemstones. It is interesting that the creative cycles in the MB&F world seem to follow the number seven. Aside from being a prime number, seven is also related to our memory capacity and attention span. Research done in 1956 showed that people could retain up to seven points of information. The number seven also has religious implications too, with seven days, seven churches, and seven steps among the different doctrines in various religions. The Legacy Machine collection was released in MB&F’s seventh year. Some years later, seven to be exact, the Legacy Machine FlyingT was launched. But there is more to the year-cycle and seven. When you are wearing the FlyingT, the smaller dial is placed at the 7 o’clock spot and at a 50° tilt, making it easier for the wearer alone to check the time. Why the fascination with seven? We don’t need to know, we just need to enjoy the creations. Lest we forget, the T in FlyingT is for tourbillon. The tourbillon was created to combat the ill-effects of gravity on a pocketwatch when stored vertically in a gentleman’s vest pocket. It’s not a necessity these days since we use wristwatches more than pocketwatches, but it sure is amazing to see the tourbillon in action. A flying tourbillon takes the artistry to another level, since the mechanism is supported by just one pillar instead of the typical two. As Büsser says, “I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. At the same time, there is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of lifegiving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”
MB&F did more than just prettifying the Legacy Machine for the ladies by adding more gems and coloring it with pastels. The Legacy Machine FlyingT was completely redesigned to suit a smaller feminine wrist. The lugs were made slimmer and the bevels were deepened for added elegance. The initial three editions of the Legacy Machine FlyingT focused on white gold and diamonds, either brilliant-cut or baguette-cut. The color palette was clean and clear — black, white gold, and spectacular diamonds. MB&F has added three diamond-set editions to the collection, this time choosing different gemstones to enhance the design and give us a little color on ourTheFlyingT.lapis lazuli dial is eye-catching and playful, with the intense blue dial paired with a bright green leather strap. Lapis lazuli is a metamorphic semiprecious stone, and ranges in color from pale blue to the deep vibrant blue seen on the FlyingT dials. The malachite dial is energizing and elegant, nicely matched with a light color leather strap. Malachite is a mineral gemstone that forms in shallow depths in areas that also have copper deposits. The copper is what creates the organic lines within the green stone. The tiger eye dial is marginally more subdued (not usually how an MB&F watch is described, but in this case, it works) with the brown colors on the dial and the darker strap. Tiger eye, or tiger’s eye, is quartz gemstone that ranges in color from light amber to darker brown. The chatoyant nature of the stone is due to the fibers within that create that narrow band of color resembling an eye. All these editions have the three-dimensional architecture and the central flying tourbillon. The hours and minutes functions are visible on the smaller internal dial. The lapis lazuli and malachite dial versions have cases of 18k white gold and diamonds, while the tiger eye dial version has a case of 18k yellow gold and diamonds.
Legacy Machine Flying T Lapis Lazuli Legacy Machine Flying T Malachite Legacy Machine Flying T Tiger Eye
The MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT continues to excite us, and bring a dash of color to our wrist.
NEW EDITIONS
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decade is an achievement worth celebrating, and SevenFriday has done so in great style. Ten years ago SevenFriday was established by Daniel Niederer, Founder and CEO, and Arnaud Duval, Head of Design. The global lifestyle brand sought to bring a bit of freedom to the world of horology. In a mere ten years, it’s safe to say they hit the mark. What is the meaning behind the brand name SevenFriday? It’s a nod to the ‘seize the day’ power of carpe diem, and the wish that every day would be a Friday. Isn’t Friday the most-awaited day of the week? You have work to finish, giving you a sense of accomplishment, but the beloved weekend is just around the corner, so you’ll get to relax and celebrate soon. Seize the day, and live every day with that Friday spirit.
Cutting edge In the decade since its establishment, SevenFriday has taken its creativeness all across the globe. Their watches are creative expressions of time, often using the most cutting edge of technologies and industrial elements, with influences from architecture and engineering. Their first offering in 2012 was limited to 1,000 pieces, but due to strong demand, they actually released and sold 12,000 pieces. Is SevenFriday a microbrand? A niche brand?
An independent watchmaker? They create more than only watches though, with sunglasses, and bracelets bearing the sleek 7F logo. It seems they do not define themselves as one thing alone. They are not uncommitted, but they also want that freedom to do things as they please. Just like you would on a Friday.
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Another aspect that prevents the toy feeling is 90
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Free-D SevenFriday has released the Free-D to commemorate their 10th anniversary. And yes, it is a 3D printed watch (See what they did there? 3D and Free-D, nice.), or rather, a watch with several 3D printed parts. The case itself is made of titanium, and the crystal is sapphire, but the some external parts are made of 3D printed PA11 polyamide, which is sustainable and castor-based. The material is gray and pairs nicely with the titanium. There is a bit of give or flexibility to the 3D printed parts, but not so much as you’d worry about damaging them easily. Some of the 3D printed parts also have nice grained texture to them, so you don’t feel like you’ve got a kid’s toy on your wrist. The texture is also a nice pairing with the leather strap.
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that the technology used to create the polyamide pieces for the watch is actually also used for space exploration. Yes, really. 3D printed tools and pieces created in plastic mean a space shuttle can bring tools and parts that serve the same purpose as metal items but weigh far less. So maybe there are a mere six degrees of separation between your SevenFriday watch and the newest spaceship. Tech savvy For the most tech savvy watch lover, the Free-D has an NFC chip in the case back of the watch (look for the ‘NFC’ on the case back). NFC, or Near Field Communication, is an evolution of the RFID technology (radio frequency identification). NFCs just have a shorter range in order to prevent accidental pairing or triggering. For the SevenFriday Free-D, the NFC serves to provide the warranty details of the watch, and to provide the provenance of the piece. After all, these watches are a work of art. The Free-D is a bit big when you see it, measuring just under 53mm by 55mm in diameter and just under 24mm in height, when you include the wings. It sounds big and you’d think it would feel heavy on your wrist. But you’d be mistaken – thanks to the lighter 3D printed parts, the watch doesn’t feel heavy when you put it on. The Free-D is powered by the self-winding Sellita SW300-1 movement, and has the hours, minutes, and seconds. The time display is, as expected, rather unexpected. It takes getting used to but is still simple once you get the hang of it. The crown is at the 12 o’clock instead of the 3 o’clock, but you’ll get used to that too.
The Free-D 1 was released earlier this year, and the Free-D 2 and 3 are welcome extensions of the collection. The Free-D 2 is even more eye-catching with the red palette. And for those among us who prefer a stealthier look, there is the Free-D 3 in black. The watch comes in a presentation box that does look somehow otherworld-y and organic at the same time. Unboxing the watch will be an enjoyable experience.Theoverall look and feel of the SevenFriday Free-D is definitely one of freedom and expression. It’s the perfect Friday watch, signaling the coming of the weekend. But honestly, it is well-suited for any day of the week when you need that gentle reminder to be free. The SevenFriday Free-D watches are fun and functional, and a fitting way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary.
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Suffice to say the new URWERK UR-100V certainly does the job! And it all started back in 2019 when Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei dusted off their tried and tested orbital hour satellite system for another groundbreaking masterpiece: the Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime, the inspiration of which was an unusually tall antique pendulum clock made by Gustave Sandoz, one of France’s “Horologers de la Marine” from of 1727 to 1891.
The extra-long pendulum (thus the unusual height) beats every 2.16 seconds, equating every oscillation to one kilometer. The main dial has a scale of 10,000 kilometers, marked in units of 100 kilometers, so each tick (half oscillation) indicates 500 meters. The top subdial is marked to 10 in increments of one kilometer. And the bottom subdial is divided in increments of 1,000 for a total of 40,000 kilometers, which is approximately the circumference of the earth at the equator.
And it wasn’t just another pendulum clock. Despite its typical regulator layout, the main dial of Sandoz’ clock, which would normally display the central seconds, was eccentrically marked to 100. The top subdial, which would normally display the hours or minutes, was marked to 10. While the bottom, and much larger subdial, which would normally display the minutes or hours, was marked to 40. And this was because the clock apparently measured the distance traveled by a person standing on the equator as the earth rotated on its axis every 24 hours.
The URWERK UR-100V is made even more intense in a new material Words by Kit Payumo nd not just any material, but BLACK titanium. “Black is black,” says Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, co-founders of URWERK. “It’s been our signature since day 01 of URWERK and it always will be. Our newest creation, the UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket is plain yet brimming with life and adrenaline.When a piece is dressed in black, it has to deliver its message straight to the heart. It has to be striking, intense. That's what we wanted to do here. The beauty of UR-100V in its raw, pure state.”
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This year, the titanium and steel of the UR100 SpaceTime makes way for another universal element: titanium, which for the UR-100V was coated in black DLC. In fact, the entire watch is made of titanium and coated in black DLC including the shot-blasted and sanded crown and crown guard; bracelet; and caseback.
The register at 10 o’clock indicates how far a person travels in 20 minutes if he were standing still anywhere on the equator for 20 minutes (555.55 km as indicated at the end of the register). It takes the circumference of the Earth at the equator (40,070 kilometers) and divides it by the length of a day (24 hours) to get an average speed of 1,670 kmh. The register at 2 o’clock, on the other hand, indicates how far the Earth has travelled in its orbit around the sun, which translates to some 35,740 km every 20 minutes.
Taking off from Gustave Sandoz’ own towering achievement (pun intended), the UR-100 uses the Earth’s orbital speed around the sun to display the distance travelled from two different perspectives in the span of 20 minutes. So, instead of disappearing after 60 minutes like the watchmaker’s usual orbital hour satellite system, the red-arrow-tipped minute pointers in the URa few liberties in interpreting the physicist’s ideas, and while it’s true that the additional spacetime indications have no practical use for anyone in everyday life, there is still no denying the incredible achievement that is the UR-100 SpaceTime
Under the carousel carrying the watchmaker’s trademark three-satellite configuration of wandering hours and minutes is the new Calibre 12.02, a new movement that according to Baumgartner, “enabled a redesign of the carousel, 100 “reappear” from two cut out registers at the top half of the dial in addition to the time display at the bottom half of the dial.
Thus, the Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime not only displays the time using Urwerk’s threeprong orbital hour satellite system, but uses the other two previously “dormant” satellites to simultaneously display the speed of the rotation of the Earth at the equator, as well as to display the speed of the Earth’s revolution around the sun.
Admittedly, Baumgartner and Frei took quite “The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime not only displays the time using Urwerk’s threeprong orbital hour satellite system, but uses the other two previously “dormant” satellites to simultaneously display the speed of the rotation of the Earth at the equator, as well as to display the speed of the Earth’s revolution around the sun”
The result is a perfectly symmetrical URWERK timepiece that recalls the independent brand’s classic first models. “We have adopted some of the stylistic features of our first constructions, and then deconstructed them,” explains Martin Frei. “For example, the steel dome of our early models is now in transparent sapphire crystal. The hard outlines of the titanium and steel case highlight its perfection. Because I’m always at odds with the dictates of symmetry, I have used different proportions to catch the eye.”
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This carousel, as well as the structure on top of the hours, is forged from anodized aluminum then sanded and shot-blasted, while the satellite screws are each circular sanded. The satellites themselves rest on a sanded brass-plated ruthenium carousel, while the structure on top of the hours display is in sanded and shot-blasted aluminum.
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bringing the hours closer to the minutes as they travel in succession along the 60-minute scale. The result is an easier and more intuitive reading of the time.”
“From my first sketches for URWERK until the present day, I have always envisioned and designed our creations on a metal bracelet,” continued Martin Frei. “The latter is an extension of the watch around the wrist and in my mind, it complements the design perfectly. I like the fact that the material — in this this instance titanium — is quite cold when you put it on your wrist. It warms up slowly on contact, acclimatizing to you and gently embracing your skin. This extremely light bracelet also makes a special sound when you play with its links. It feels good. It is beautiful. To me, this watch is a real success and I am happy to see it come to life for real.”
But what makes the movement interesting is the addition of a Windfäng (Swiss-German for “air trap”), a flat turbine that regulates the automatic winding rotor. It minimizes shocks to the rotor bearing and reduces over-winding, as well as overall wear and tear. The rotor, which is partially supported on its periphery by the flat turbine, also has a larger diameter, resulting in a lower mass and therefore less wear. The beauty of it all is that this is probably the most comfortable all-metal timepiece URWERK has ever produced. “Our goal was to make the most comfortable watch to wear. The UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket is a perfectly ergonomic watch. Its bracelet is ultra-light and incredibly soft against the skin. It’s a bracelet synonymous with pleasure,” added URWERK co-founder and masterwatchmaker Felix Baumgartner. Made of 32 black DLC-treated sandblasted titanium links, this very special bracelet is indeed supposedly very comfortable (we have yet to see one “in the metal” to verify this), ensuring “a perfect aesthetic result.”
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Photo by Carl S. Cunanan
The National Firefighters Memorial just outside St. Paul’s off the Thames in London. Sometimes when we are surrounded by those who use public service as a means of personal forward movement it is good to be reminded about those who anonymously work for others. The ones who rush in and actually do the work.
“The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time.” — Bertrand Russell
