Vancouver Magazine May/June 2023

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Culture

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HOT TAKE

Let’s face it, we’re in vacation mode already: here are the most stylish travel accessories of the summer.

14

THE DISRUPTOR

Meet the Vancouverite combining coworking with on-site childcare, all in OneSpace.

THE TICKET

Locally drawn art prints you’ll fall in love with—spot your favourite restaurant in Mikayla Hong’s adorable portfolio.

ABOUT TOWN

Who’s who at the city’s biggest social events (and dates to mark on your calendar).

18 22 26 102

CITY INFORMER

Why doesn’t Vancouver have more rooftop patios? We search high and low.

34TH ANNUAL RESTAURANT AWARDS

31 81 24

THE GREATEST OUTDOORS

From great golf to serene campsites to mind-boggling kayaking, these six local getaways are your key to a stress-free summer trip.

ON THE RISE

Vancouver’s Free Label is constantly selling out of bras and underwear—here’s why it’s a cult fave.

NIGHTCAP

A refreshing cocktail recipe from our 2023 Bartender of the Year.

Never waste time debating “What’s for dinner?” again: simply make your way through the 50+ best restaurants in Vancouver. Our 2023 Restaurant Awards celebrate all that’s daring and delicious. Dig in.

MAY/JUNE 2023 VOLUME 56 // NUMBER 3
Features k ON THE COVER Photographer
captured the stunning dishes at Suyo Modern Peruvian. Read more on page 38.
VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 5
Leila Kwok
Contents

Editorial Director Anicka Quin

Art Director Stesha Ho

Associate Editor Alyssa Hirose

Associate Art Director Jenny Reed

Assistant Editor Kerri Donaldson

Editor at Large Stacey McLachlan

Wine & Spirits Editor Neal McLennan

Contributing Editors Frances Bula, Melissa Edwards, Amanda Ross

Editorial Interns Astrid Agbayani, Lydia Cotic-Ehn, Isabella Santamaria

Editorial Email mail@vanmag.com

Director of Sales Anna Lee

Senior Media Specialists Charie Ginete-Ilon, Brianne

Harper, Mira Hershcovitch, Amy LaJambe, Gabriella Sepulveda Knuth, Sheri Stubel

Production Manager/Digital Ad Coordinator

Kim McLane

Sales Specialist Roberto Diaz

Production Coordination/Design

Nadine Gieseler

Sales Email s ales@canadawide.com

U.S. Sales Representation

Hayes Media Sales Lesley Hayes

Tel 602-432-4868

Email le sley@hayesmediasales.com

European Sales Representation

S&R Media Sylvie Durlach

Tel +33 1 44 18 06 65

Email srmedia@club-internet.fr

Suite 130, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7 Tel 604-299-7311 Fax 604-299-9188

CEO and Group Publisher Ryan Benn

Group VP, Publishing & Operations Nina Wagner

VP of HR/Admin Joy Ginete-Cockle

Group VP, Finance Conroy Ing, CPA, CMA

VP of Finance Sonia Roxburgh, CPA, CGA

Executive Creative Director Rick Thibert

Director of Circulation Tracy McRitchie

Accounting Terri Mason, Eileen Gajowski

Circulation Kelly Kalirai

O ff ice Manager Lori North

Executive Assistant Hannah Dewar

Publisher Emeritus Peter Legge, OBC, ll.d (hon)

VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published six times a year by Canada Wide Media Limited Suite 130, 4321 Still Creek Drive, Burnaby, B.C. V5C 6S7. Phone 604-299-7311; fax

604-299-9188. Copyright 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material. Privacy Policy: On occasion, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened organizations whose product or service might interest you. If you prefer that we not share your name and address (postal and/or email), you can easily remove your name from our mailing lists by reaching us at any of the listed contact points. You can review our complete Privacy Policy at Vanmag.com. Indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index by Micromedia Ltd. and also in the Canadian Periodical Index. International standard serial no. ISSN 0380-9552. Canadian publications mail product sales agreement #40068973. Printed in Canada by Mitchell Press, 8328 Riverbend Ct, Burnaby, B.C. V3N 5C9. Distributed by Coast to Coast Ltd. BC VANMAG.COM Like us on Facebook @WESTERNLIVINGMAGAZINE Follow us on Instagram @WESTERNLIVING Visit us at WWW.WESTERNLIVING.CA

A Return, and a Welcome

The issue you hold in your hands is part of a 34-year history here at Vanmag—we have been holding our annual Restaurant Awards since 1989. In a typical judging cycle, our judges would dine out over the course of the year, and then spend months comparing, debating with each other, and finally gathering up their votes to send to our accountants (thanks, Crowe MacKay!). The judges would send us a final tally, and we’d start the work of assigning the profiles, stealthily photographing the winners... and planning out all the details of the big annual awards event we hold to celebrate these outstanding restaurants and restaurant professionals.

Of course, the last few years threw that meticulous schedule right off the rails. If you’re thinking, wait, didn’t the Restaurant Awards just happen? you wouldn’t be wrong. In almost every year we’ve held these awards, we’ve announced the results in our May issue, but a couple of years ago we started delaying them to September as the restaurant world dealt with the trials of the pandemic. So yes, our last Restaurant Awards issue did appear less than a year ago, but now we’re thrilled to welcome it back where it belongs—along with a raucous in-person awards ceremony on May 15.

And, as fits the ever-evolving nature of the Restaurant Awards, we’re introducing a few new categories this year. Our talented associate editor Alyssa Hirose—who stickhandles the production of the awards each year—felt it was time to transition Best West Coast to a more relevant Best Contemporary (and you can see the results on page 46). The restaurants in this category celebrate the way we dine in Vancouver: fresh, local ingredients; creative execution of techniques; and a modern dining experience. Our new Best B.C. Wine category (page 61) celebrates the restaurants that have brought together a B.C.-dominant wine list that’s well rounded and well paired to their cuisine. And this year’s Best Middle Eastern category (page 40) was clearly overdue—the incredible calibre of the restaurants we’ve highlighted here makes them each well worth a visit (or three).

While we’re celebrating the idea of bringing in the new—I want to welcome Vanmag’s new editor-in-chief, Janine Verreault, who will officially introduce herself to you in the next issue on this very page. She’s as thrilled to be here as I am to have her on our Vanmag team, and I can’t wait to see her big plans for the magazine come to life in future issues.

Coming Up Next Issue

k The Home Issue

We’re putting the spotlight on local Vancouverites at home—their favourite rooms, collections and shops around the city. And speaking of shopping—get into our editor’s picks of the city’s design districts.

Vancouver’s Best Patios Summer is when our city really shines—and we’ve taken on the excellent task of picking out the very best spots in the city to while away the hours in the sun.

On the Web

Every Alcohol-Friendly Park and Beach in the City

Thank you, Parks Board, for bringing us into the modern world: we can permanently drink in over 30 parks, and summertime booze it in another 16. For the complete list, head to vanmag.com

5 Things to Do This Week

Our culture sleuth Kerri Donaldson discovers the best events in the city each week, from wrestling matches to wine fests and seafood feasts to art auctions. Get plugged into this city—and subscribe to our newsletter to get the scoop first, too.

8 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 PORTRAIT:
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Culture

Take a deep breath: it’s time for a reset. Turn the page for the best of spring style, new books from local authors and a peek inside the mind of the artist who illustrates your favourite restaurants. Plus, we cover a cult fashion brand that always sells out (productwise, never ethically) and a cool (and kid-friendly) coworking space.

In the Bag

In classic monogrammed cognac Vachetta leather, MCM’s new vintage-inspired heritage suitcase with 24K-gold-plated hardware recalls the golden age of travel. From $4,825, mcmworldwide.com

cVANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 11

Culture Hot Take

Boarding Pass

Summer travel is on the horizon; here’s your city sightseeing set-up.

ba&sh

925 W GEORGIA ST.

In the heart of bustling downtown, French fashion brand ba&sh opens its doors to offer up their particular mix of flirty Gallic je-ne-sais-quoi. Collections channel a worldly, resort-ready vibe, all with effortless feminine chic thrown in. ba-sh.com

Arc’teryx’s new Veilance Indisce Tech Wool blazer invites extreme exploring in a moisture-repellent, breathable shell crafted from responsibly sourced Hit the pavement with Allbirds’ new Riser, a retro-inspired sneaker made with 100-percent-organic canvas, eucalyptus-tree fibre, ZQ-certified merino wool and a sole made with sugarcane. $180, allbirds.ca 3. Have romper; will travel. Vancouver-based Duer’s new stretchy Live Free jumpsuit is made with plant-based material that inhibits bacterial growth, so it can be an excursion essential. $159, duer.ca These necklaces, charms and keychains double as literal lifesavers; when clicked, Telus SmartWear jewellery texts your GPS location to your contacts as well as to emergency services. Monitoring plans from $12/month; devices sold separately, telus.com 5. Pack light and liquidless with Beautycounter’s SPF30 water-resistant Countersun mineral sunscreen stick. $23, beautycounter.com 6. Inspired by big-city energy, Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s unisex 724 eau de parfum travel set lands with a gold vaporizer to swap scents (bergamot from Italy; jasmine absolute from Egypt). $425 , franciskurkdjian.com

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Culture The Disruptor

A Mother of an Idea

Meet the Vancouverite holding space for women entrepreneurs—and their most important stakeholders.

Like most co-working spaces, East Vancouver’s OneSpace has plenty of amenities for a working professional: hotdesks and private offices, meeting rooms and airy networking spaces, a lush array of leafy green plants. There’s one big

difference, however: as you’re typing away, you might also notice playful pitter-patter (and the occasional pounce) coming from upstairs, where the community’s youngest members spend their days.

Local entrepreneur Elizabeth Fisher dreamed up this space—where mothers can reserve time to focus on their careers while their kids are cared for on site—from a far less supportive place: a cramped coat closet under the stairs in her rented basement suite.

“I had no community,” Fisher says of 2016, the year she launched her first nonprofit organization while surrounded by winter wear and all the demands

of new motherhood. “I had no access to other moms. I had no access to entrepreneurs. I felt like I was doing it completely alone and it was hard—it really affected my mental health.”

Plus, she had a terrible time finding affordable care for her son.

Just months after incorporating her nonprofit, Fisher learned she was pregnant. Her son arrived just as she began facilitating programs for local at-risk youth. “He grew up in a lot of the places we were doing programs,” she says, “but there were times when I needed childcare.”

Unfortunately for Fisher, and for tens of thousands of

Vancouver parents, a shortage of licenced, affordable childcare spaces has plagued this city, (not to mention the province and the entire country) for generations. In 1970, the Royal Commission on the Status of Women urged the federal government to prioritize the implementation of a highquality universal childcare system in order to help Canadian women obtain social and economic equality. More than

14 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
PHOTO BY TANYA GOEHRING
The Kids Are Alright Elizabeth Fisher (above) created East Vancouver’s OneSpace for women to have access to a co-working space with childcare (opposite page).

50 years later, B.C. and the majority of the country remain in the early stages of rolling out a universal $10-a-day plan.

At the end of 2021, Vancouver’s existing childcare system met the needs of just 24 percent

Back when $10-a-day childcare was just a limited pilot program, Fisher jumped on a rare opening at an in-home daycare in her neighbourhood, but the price tag was unsustainable. “I was paying $1,200 a month, thinking, ‘I don’t need this much care.’”

Just four years into the juggle, with another baby on the way, Fisher made the tough decision to call it quits. She shuttered her nonprofit and took a leave in order to focus on welcoming her second child.

All the while, Fisher says, she kept returning to the same thought: Why doesn’t Vancouver have a co-working space that provides everything a working parent needs in one place?

In 2018, she got the push she needed to make her dream workspace a reality. While attending a gendered investing conference downtown, she casually mentioned her idea for a co-working space with childcare to a powerhouse female lawyer in attendance.

The response was immediate, Fisher recalls: “Are you doing it soon? Here’s my card. Call me when you do this.”

That was all the market research she needed. While businesses fled the city in droves at the start of the pandemic, Fisher made her way in. She scored a reasonable lease on a warehouse just a few blocks from her home and spent the rest of 2020 prepping the space for both adult and pint-sized members.

by its very design. A self-proclaimed introvert, Fisher says that many women don’t feel comfortable in traditional co-working spaces that prioritize open seating and networking. “I don’t like walking through a space and feeling like I’m being watched by a bunch of people. In a co-working space by men for men, that’s what it feels like.”

Instead, Fisher’s OneSpace aims to offer a work-from-home vibe. “Everyone has their own nook. Everyone has their own desk.” But there are also distinct spaces to gather—or take a much-needed break. “I will sometimes deliberately sit out in the open and watch TV shows, just to be like, ‘This is okay,’” Fisher says. “Radical permission to give yourself whatever you need.”

While she aims to expand to new locations in the future, Fisher says she has no illusions about single-handedly solving the city’s childcare shortage. “I think a really big part of empowering moms is giving them choice, and making that choice accessible,” she says. “We can’t be a full-time daycare, but we’re providing another option, another choice. It won’t work for everyone, but it’s one more option.”

On the heels of the space’s second anniversary, the community has grown to include women—and some men—working in a wide range of fields: videography and photography, architecture, law, physical and mental well-being.

of families with children three and under; 45 percent of families with children ages three to five; and 39 percent of families with children ages five and up, according to the city’s most recently published estimates.

Parenthood is not a prere quisite for joining OneSpace. However, members with children ages 10 months to five years can take advantage of the onsite Children’s Atelier space. Staffed by early childhood educators, the program offers fourhour childminding sessions for as little as $14 per hour. Single-hour bookings range from $20 to $25 per hour.

Fisher also wanted to create a space that’s geared to women

Still, figuring out how to draw women out of isolation, especially post-pandemic, has been a challenge. “As moms, we don’t allow ourselves to prioritize ourselves—and prioritize community connection. So if we can get by working from home, we try to get by working from home,” Fisher says. “But you can get by a lot better here because you can chat to other moms; you can have a way broader range of support.”

VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 15
PHOTOS
BY
BRITNEY BERRNER CREATIVE
I think a really big part of empowering moms is giving them choice, and making that choice accessible. We can’t be a fulltime daycare, but we’re providing another option, another choice. It won’t work for everyone, but it’s one more option.”

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Culture The Ticket

Prints Charming

Local artist Mikayla Hong creates beautiful illustrations of iconic Vancouver buildings.

Looking through a gallery of Mikayla Hong’s art feels like playing a special Vancouver edition of I Spy. There’s the rosy concrete of Welk’s General Store, the Naam’s classic green awning, the glowing string lights of Tacofino’s

Gastown patio. “Drawing local businesses was my way of showing support,” explains Hong, who started posting her illustrations of Vancouver storefronts and restaurants on Instagram (@artbedo) at the beginning of the pandemic.

Hong was completing her master’s degree in biomedical engineering (!) online when she posted the drawing of Mount Pleasant’s Federal Store that started it all. The post got a lot of attention, most notably from the Federal Store team, who shared it to their own audience. Since then, she’s created an impressive collection of Vancouver-focused

art—some commissioned work, but also lots of illustrations that resonate with her specifically.

“I not only consider how the building looks visually, but how it emotionally connects with people,” says Hong. “Some of these longstanding businesses,

although they are not the most architecturally stunning, people in the neighbourhood recognize and connect to them.”

Hong’s portfolio of local drawings includes both buzzy local spots like Phnom Penh (“I love their chicken wings!”) and nowclosed neighbourhood faves like Wo Fat Co., a Chinatown bakery that her own great-grandfather opened in 1923. Her mother and aunt helped her with the latter, advising on shelf placement and suggesting the addition of fresh-baked almond cookies in the window.

Beyond her joyfully specific art, Hong supports the places she draws by donating a portion of her proceeds from selling prints, stickers and arts to local charities like the Downtown Eastside Women’s Centre and the Vancouver Chinatown Foundation. Find her portfolio of work online at artbedo.com

18 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
I not only consider how the building looks visually, but how it emotionally connects with people.”
C MORE IN STORE Mikayla Hong’s illustrations of Kitsilano storefronts (left) and her great-grand-father’s bakery (below).

Culture The Ticket

cCANDLELIGHT: 100 YEARS OF WARNER BROS.

DATE June 9

VENUE Christ Church Cathedral

COST From $30

Where else are you going to hear live music from The Wizard of Oz, A Star Is Born, Scooby Doo and The Lord of the Rings in the same night? Expect the greatest hits from Warner Bros. movies at this candlelight concert performed by the Listeso string quartet: it’s likely the most romantic way you’ll ever experience the Batman theme song. candlelightexperience.com

FIRST MÉTIS MAN OF ODESA

DATE May 25 to June 4

VENUE The Cultch’s Historic Theatre

COST From $25

This new play tells the modern love story of Canadian playwright Matthew MacKenzie and Ukrainian actor Mariya Khomutova—and both play themselves on stage. The show spotlights moments of happiness and humour as the couple persists through very difficult circumstances, including the COVID pandemic and the war in Ukraine. thecultch.ca

It’s Lit

Balance romance with fun at this candlelit concert that features songs from your fave cartoons.

7 GENERATIONS CUP

DATE June 10 and 11

VENUE Langley Events Centre, Langley

After a stellar inaugural event in 2022, the 7 Generations Cup is back. If you missed this Indigenous-hosted pro skateboarding fest last year, this is your chance to flip out over trick battles, street and transition skateboarding and more jaw-dropping spectacles performed by radical risk-takers. 7genskate.com

2

Stick your nose in these local books.

Leigh Joseph

This is the first book from Squamish-based ethnobotanist Leigh Joseph—you might know her as the founder of cult fave skincare brand Skwálwen Botanicals. Learn to identify and harvest plants, as well as how to use them topically and for food (recipes included!) using this beautiful full-colour guide. banyen.com

ATOMWEIGHT

Emi Sasagawa

Vancouver-based Emi Sasagawa’s debut novel tackles the struggle of being a “good girl” in a major (and violent) way. Main character Aki is a perfect student and daughter, but after moving from Vancouver to London, she finds unexpected stress relief in an age-old, alcohol-fuelled exploit: barfighting. massybooks.com

THE DAUGHTER OF DOCTOR MOREAU

Silvia Moreno-Garcia

Remember H.G. Wells’s Dr. Moreau, the mad scientist hellbent on transforming animals into people? This new work of historical fiction from Vancouver author Silvia Moreno-Garcia tells the story of Moreau’s daughter, Carlota. It’s a fresh take on the sci-fi/ horror tale, and takes place in 19th-century Mexico. irondogbooks.com

20 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
(FIRST MÉTIS MAN OF ODESA) PHOTO BY NASTYA GOOZ
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Culture About Town

Spring Flings

The Canadian Cancer Society’s Daffoil Ball was in full bloom and 50th-anniversary celebrations offered the sweet smell of S.U.C.C.E.S.S.

CANADIAN CANCER SOCIETY’S DAFFODIL BALL

1. Vancouver firefighters Brandon Davies and Austin Dickson’s “Fire in the Kitchen” live auction packages fetched $90,000.

2. Sarah McLachlan and Joshua McVeity were among 530 guests—local philanthropists and business leaders—who attended the black-tie affair at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver.

3. Meghan Brown, Jill Arias and Jennifer Traub chaired the 27th annual Daffodil Ball, which raised a record-setting $3 million for the Canadian Cancer Society to support research and treatment options for people diagnosed with brain cancer.

4. Blue Rodeo’s Jim Cuddy performed following the successful night of fundraising.

THE SOCIAL CALENDAR

MAY 9

Y.W.C.A. Women of Distinction Awards Premier event honouring extraordinary businesses and women leaders making a difference across Metro Vancouver. ywcavan.org

JUNE 15

Brilliance Gala

Celebrating the enduring legacy of Gordon Smith, this art auction and dinner will support the Gordon Smith Foundation and the Artists for Kids program. smithfoundation.co

S.U.C.C.E.S.S. FOUNDATION’S BRIDGE TO S.U.C.C.E.S.S. GALA

5. S.U.C.C.E.S.S. CEO Queenie Choo welcomed B.C. Premier David Eby and some 600 guests to the annual Bridge to S.U.C.C.E.S.S. Gala.

6. Setting political partisanship aside, MLAs Anne Kang and Michael Lee collaborated on a Parliamentary live auction package that raised muchneeded funds to assist new immigrants adjusting to life in Canada.

7. Gala co-chair Stephanie Li and S.U.C.C.E.S.S. chair Terry Yung helped mark the 50th anniversary of the Vancouver immigrant services agency.

8. Founding chair of S.U.C.C.E.S.S. Maggie Ip and foundation board chair Jason Lam saw more than $500,000 raised to benefit programs and social services unaided by government funding.

JUNE 24

Momentum Gala Ballet BC’s marquee fundraiser returns for an evening of fine food, philanthropy and dance supporting Canada’s foremost contemporary dance company. balletbc.com

22 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
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Culture On the Rise

Moral Support

Jess Sternberg claps back at fast fashion with her ethical clothing brand Free Label.

Jess Sternberg is a rebel. “People are really leaning into this clothing-haul disposable culture, where buying is almost a form of entertainment,” says the founder of Vancouver-based clothing brand Free Label. Not Sternberg, though: she’s on a mission to change the fashion industry one ethically made, ridiculously

comfortable, size-inclusive and reversible bra at a time.

As a buyer for a Toronto boutique back in 2015, Sternberg noticed a gap in the fashion industry, one that made it hard for her to find Canadian-made clothes that fit her lifestyle and her curvier frame. So, with the support of that same boutique, she began designing and selling her own wares, starting with a basic tank top. The next year, she moved to Vancouver, and Free Label quickly grew into a cult favourite brand thanks to comfy, long-lasting and versatile basics that come in sizes ranging from XS to 5X.

Slowing down fast fashion isn’t cheap, however. “I will never

be able to make a $10 T-shirt ethically,” Sternberg says. “It’s just not possible.” Her message is clear: buy less, but better. The company uses deadstock fabrics

OUR FAV

We love the Dani bra ($98) and so does everyone else: the product is almost always sold out. Joining Free Label’s mailing list is the best way to know when more stock drops.

and small-scale production while giving back to the community through a mentorship program and funding for BIPOC entrepreneurs in Canada. “It’s important to me to be able to tell the story of who made your clothes and why you should choose, when possible, ethically made clothing instead,” Sternberg explains.

And there’s more stylishly sustainable goods on the horizon: be on the lookout for Free Label’s new athleisure collection launching this fall.

24 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
PHOTOS BY DANIELA REY AND THOMAS BULLOCK
People are really leaning into this clothinghaul disposable culture, where buying is almost a form of entertainment.”
GREENER AND GREATER Jess Sternberg (top right) is the owner of Free Label, the Vancouver-based slow fashion brand making bras that are better for the environment.

YOUR CREATIVE FUTURE AWAITS .

Discover LaSalle College Vancouver , a member of Canada’s oldest design education network, now with B.C.s newest creative campus. We see your potential and invite you to apply to a talent scholarship, providing funding for up to 20% of the cost of tuition for full-time degree and diploma programs. Tomorrow’s leaders of culinary art, media & design study here. Tomorrow’s leaders of culinaru, media & design study here.

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Culture City Informer

Why Are Rooftop Bars So Rare in Vancouver?

All we want is to drink a lukewarm beer with our heads in the clouds—is that so much to ask?!

DID YOU KNOW?

A Roof By Any Other Name

Some Vancouver bars that claim to be “rooftop” are actually a terrace (we’re looking at you, Reflections) or have a full-on ceiling (are you afraid of the sun, Black and Blue?).

while getting a glorious thirddegree sunburn?

Vancouverites come from all walks of life, but at the end of a grey, grey spring, we are all one thing: very soggy. We crave the sun, and will bask in its middling rays wherever they may land—whether that’s curbside on a six-lane thoroughfare or in the muddy thicket of a dog park. But this city is missing what sun-seekers crave most: rooftop patios.

Millennia ago, our ancestors worked ceaselessly under the beating sun, dreaming of the day they would one day invent the roof. How could they ever have predicted that the height of modern luxury would be drinking outdoors?

And yet what activity is more desirable, more aspirational, more centre-of-the-seasonalvision-board for a Vancouverite than sipping a watery margarita

While I’m sure servers here are happy that they don’t have to sweat their way up 15 flights of stairs every time I decide I want hot sauce with my happy-hour tater tots (hello, yes, I am 35), it seems borderline cruel that we must do our outdoor drinking and nacho-bill splitting with our feet firmly on the ground. Ugh! Do you know what happens on the ground!? All the worst stuff! It’s disgusting down here! But to enjoy a beverage in the sky? To be five storeys closer to the sun’s glorious rays? There is no greater summer treat.

The rooftop patio is a staple of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities: London! Bangkok! Calgary! And yet Vancouver’s rooftop watering holes can be counted on one hand and are often located a pitiful two storeys up. A tall, mean man could probably reach up and tie someone’s shoelaces together on the Darby’s patio if he had just finished

26 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
illustration by Byron Eggenschwiler

Culture City Informer

watching Jackass Forever and was feeling a little prank-y. Legally speaking, I don’t think it’s a rooftop bar if you aren’t getting a side of vertigo with your frosé.

What’s most frustrating is that nothing else is even happening on those rooftops. What a waste. They’re just keeping the rain off of penthouse apartments and providing a potential location for a dramatic fight scene in whatever D-list Marvel Cinematic Universe series is being filmed here next (Roof Boy: Origins). I could be using those roofs for a good cause! It takes all summer for me to get enough freckles to blend into a tan, and every moment not spent drinking on a rooftop is setting me back.

The reason we are lacking in sky-high thrills is truly boring— very “ground level” vibes, if you will. Basically, a restaurant or bar can only licence a patio that is physically connected to their location (with the exception of the parking-lane patios that popped up during COVID). And in Vancouver, it’s rare that an establishment owns a full building, or is on an upper floor with rooftop access. Other cities have patio zoning that is more lax, or have bars located on upper storeys of buildings that are connected to the roof.

But pick yourself up off that disgusting ground, because we’ve got an opportunity here! We just need to band together and buy a craft-beer keg and the tallest building we can find. Then, we can finally get high (above the city). Sure, a real estate investment in a skyscraper may cost a titch more than you were planning on spending on that first-date bucket of Sleeman’s Honey Browns, but climb with me, up 42 flights of stairs, toward the light—dizzy and panting and aware that you forgot your sunglasses in the car—and remember that the sky can be the limit, if we just believe.

28 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
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THE BEST THE BEST Korean, French, Japanese, Italian, Middle Eastern, Indian, Latin American, Thai, Chinese, African and Caribbean restaurants and

THE ROOKIE What’s the best new restaurant in the city? Turn to page 38 to find out. VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 31 LEILA KWOK
City’s Top Restaurants in 2 023 34TH ANNUAL RESTAURANT AWARDS ★ These Are the City’s Top Restaurants in 2023
more. By the Editors THE RESULTS ARE IN THE RESULTS ARE IN
These Are the

RO TY RO TY

32 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023

Restaurant of the Year

★ ANNALENA

1809 W 1st Ave., Vancouver annalena.ca

In the eyes of our Vanmag Restaurant Awards judges, our 2023 Restaurant of the Year walks a fine line: it’s innovative while remaining grounded, dependable yet still surprising, elevated but always approachable. One judge called 2023’s ROTY “the total package that I would recommend to absolutely anyone.” Another applauded its “unwavering creativity and consistency”; a third said the restaurant “captures the essence of thinking-outside-the-box.”

That restaurant is AnnaLena , the Kitsilano room dreamed up by chef Michael Robbins (more on Robbins on page 34) and operations manager JeffParr. AnnaLena first opened in 2015—and while most restaurateurs will admit that their restaurants have evolved slightly since launch,

Robbins says that the now Michelin-starred AnnaLena has transformed completely. “AnnaLena couldn’t have changed more—it opened as a share plate, casual restaurant, and now it’s a tasting-menuonly one-star,” says the chef.

The tasting menu launched when the pandemic began. But while the darkest days of COVID are behind us, AnnaLena’s thoughtful, inventive and celebrated multi-course tasting menu remains. The lineup changes once a monthish, but here’s a peek at past menus: mushroom spaghettini with maple bacon and wakame, aged beef striploin with bleu cheese broccoli purée and torn bread with pecorino sweet onion broth and ricotta.

The nod from Michelin last fall brought a unique buzz to AnnaLena, and our judges celebrate this big win and more: notably, that local suppliers are championed in every dish, that the tasting menu is one of the

most delicious and aff ordable ($98 per person) in the city and that the vibe remains welcoming and down-to-earth at each seating. “Tasting menus can be a lot, and service can be very sti ff,” says Robbins, “and I think that AnnaLena is professional but casual: the service is warm and personable, the team is knowledgeable and educated, but we try to keep it approachable.”

Winning Restaurant of the Year makes three 2023 Restaurant Awards for AnnaLena (Chef of the Year and Best Contemporary—page 46— complete the trio). It’s been an excellent year for Robbins, Parr and the team. To see what’s next, you’ll have to book a table (and fast—to no one’s surprise, reservations sell out quickly on the day they’re released, a month in advance).

VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 33 ALLISON KUHL
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023

CO TY CO TY

34 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023

Chef of the Year

★ MICHAEL ROBBINS

AnnaLena, Their There, Hundy

Can you separate the artist from the art? In the case of AnnaLena, the 42-seat restaurant that’s the winner of both our brand-new Best Contemporary award and the coveted title of 2023 Restaurant of the Year, the answer is simple: no.

Our Restaurant Awards judges consider chef Michael Robbins ’s talent and the success of AnnaLena to be

inextricable—and the chef himself acknowledges the connection. “As I grow up, the room grows up,” says Robbins, who was only 29 when he and managing partner JeffParr opened the restaurant in 2015.

Robbins’s culinary journey began at Earls—a rite of passage for many Vancouver teenagers. From there, he moved up to chef de partie at Joe Fortes, then chef de cuisine at Glowbal, Coast and Sanafir; after that, he opened the Oakwood Canadian Bistro as executive chef. (Apart from some time working in Sydney, Australia, his hospitality career has been hyper-local.) “I’ve never stopped learning,” he says. “I’m still a sponge.”

In addition to the Michelinstarred AnnaLena, Robbins is honoured this year for his café Their There and burger joint Hundy. It’s an eclectic portfolio: AnnaLena serves up

VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 35 (LEFT & ABOVE) TANYA
(FOOD)
GOEHRING;
ALLISON KUHL
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
I like to put myself in uncomfortable situations. I think that if you’re comfortable, you’re not pushing yourself— and I want to keep growing.”

WHAT’S COOKING

Chef Michael Robbins steers the kitchens at AnnaLena (top), Their There (middle right) and Hundy (bottom left)—three very di ff erent but very adored restaurants.

a refined tasting menu, Their There has co ff ee and brunch, Hundy is all about burgers and fries. Running this trio of rooms has its challenges, but Robbins thrives under pressure—especially when it’s self-assigned. “I like to put myself in uncomfortable situations,” he explains. “I think that if you’re comfortable, you’re not pushing yourself—and I want to keep growing.”

From burgers to barley risotto, Robbins keeps his food extraordinary but unintimidating. Take his approach to duck pâté: duck fat and five-spice is baked into a carrot muffin, and whipped duck pâté is piped on top. Garnished with cherry gel and black truffle, this complex, savoury dish is disguised as a cupcake. And Robbins’s insta-worthy dishes are just as tasty as they are beautiful. “He makes food look pretty, but also really delicious—it’s not just for the camera,” says Restaurant Awards judge Mijune Pak.

Accolades aside (enRoute, Canada’s 100 Best, Michelin and, of course, Vanmag have all recognized AnnaLena), the chef continues to push his skills to the limit and experiment in the kitchen. He won’t rest on his laurels, regardless of critical acclaim or economic success. “There is something unfulfilling about doing the same thing on repeat just to make money,” he says.

Pak praises Robbins and AnnaLena for thriving in a neighbourhood not known for fine dining: “He’s made himself a destination-worthy restaurant,” she says. And despite creating over 60 tasting menus, the chef continues to surprise and delight the people he’s feeding. “He’s an artist, for sure,” she says.

36 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 TANYA GOEHRING & ALLISON KUHL
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
801 W GEORGIA ST. | 604.673.7000 | HAWKSWORTHRESTAURANT.COM “the toast of Vancouver’s fine-dining scene” Contemporary West Coast seasonally inspired, creative and refined “the jewel in Vancouver’s culinary crown”

Best New

★ SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN

3475 Main St., Vancouver suyo.ca

We’re privileged to live in a city that’s packed with extraordinary and diverse dining options—so many, in fact, that gaps in cuisine are rarely pointed out or addressed. We’re grateful for what we have. Why be greedy?

Suyo is why. The modern Peruvian restaurant, masterminded by Lima-born chef Ricardo Valverde, is “something Vancouver needed, but didn’t know how to ask for,” according to one of our judges. Thanks to dishes like the ensalada rusa (a pretty, colourful beet and parsnip salad with smoked mayo) and the pork belly chicharron (an homage to the Peruvian breakfast sandwich, with polenta tamal and yam puree), Suyo has captured not only the gold in this category, but the gold for Best Latin American (page 49) as well.

Earning silver is Folke, the Kitsilano newcomer proving that veggies have more fun: tapioca dumplings with mushroom XO sauce and ponzu and pizzoccheri pasta with potato, cabbage and shio koji are standouts. “A true celebration of vegetables and those who grow them,” quipped one judge. And Sushi Hil takes the

a★ Folke

2585 W Broadway, Vancouver folkerestaurant.com

★ Sushi Hil

3330 Main St., Vancouver sushihil.com

HONOURABLE MENTION

Okeya Kyujiro

1038 Mainland St., Vancouver okeya.ca

bronze: our judges hyped up the chirashi royale (uni, bluefin tuna, king salmon, wagyu and caviar): “It could be a piled-up mess in lesser hands,” said one, “but here, the dish sang with abundance and each element was distinct and bright, balancing indulgence and restraint perfectly.” And hot on Hil’s heels is another Japanese standout: the superindulgent (and honourable mention-worthy) omakase of Okeya Kyujiro.

38 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★ VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 39 SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN

Best Middle Eastern

★ YASMA

550 Denman St., Vancouver yasma.ca

After less than three years in operation (first as a Kits ghost kitchen, now as a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Coal Harbour), Syrian/Lebanese eatery Yasma wins gold in our new Middle Eastern category. “A great combination of thoughtful dishes and small extra touches show the depth of love from the kitchen staff,” said one of our judges. That love shows up in the fried kibbeh (made with halal lamb that’s ground in-house, stu ff ed into a dough shell and served with a creamy yogurt sauce), which takes over a day to hand-prepare.

Turkish counterservice spot Anatolia’s Gate earns silver for unfussy but ultra-tasty eats like fresh-baked lavash and tender, flame-licked lamb. The bronze goes to Zarak , a modern Afghan restaurant our judges celebrated for flavourful, share-able dishes and extraordinarily creative cocktails—the Mahtab is crafted from saff roninfused Patrón Añejo tequila, Bénédictine, cardamom honey water and saff lower. (Afghanistan is geographically

a

★ Anatolia’s Gate

7084 Kingsway, Burnaby anatoliasgate restaurant.com

★ Zarak

2102 Main St., Vancouver zarakvancouver.com

HONOURABLE MENTION

Delara

2272 W 4th Ave., Vancouver delararestaurant.ca

situated in Central Asia, not the Middle East, but is sometimes included in the geopolitical definition of the Greater Middle East; for the purposes of this award, our judges considered Afghan restaurants to be included in the category.) And the ultra-vibey Delara is our honourable mention—find contemporary West Coast takes on traditional Persian dishes here.

40 VANMAG.COM MAY/JU NE 2023
YASMA
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★ VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023 41
PHOTO BY LEILA KWOK

Best Upscale

BOULEVARD KITCHEN AND OYSTER BAR 845 Burrard St., Vancouver boulevardvancouver.ca

In 2022, Boulevard, Published and St. Lawrence were our top three, though in a very different order. All of which is to say: we’re a lucky bunch of diners here in Vancouver. Any would make the perfect spot for celebrating a promotion, proposing to your boyfriend or secretly eating the best solo meal of your life while your partner is at home with the kids. But it’s Boulevard that rose to the top this year. Though the room inexplicably missed a Michelin star, perhaps that just fuelled chefs Roger Ma and Alex Chen to wow our judges with jaw-dropping dishes like soy-sake-glazed, charcoal-grilled sablefish and 50-oz bone-in tomahawk steaks. Maybe it’s a flex, but it’s a delicious one. Published on Main (silver) and St. Lawrence (bronze) continue to impress with next-level service and impeccably prepared dishes— Published taking an elevated, farm-to-table approach and St. Lawrence embracing a deeply personal Québécois menu. Honourable mentions go to Blue Water Cafe (that fresh-seafood stalwart) and the inimitable Yuwa (silver in Best Japanese this year).

a

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Yuwa

42 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★ ★ Published on Main 3593 Main St., Vancouver publishedon main.com ★ St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., Vancouver stlawrence restaurant.com Blue Water Cafe 1095 Hamilton St., Vancouver bluewatercafe.net
Japanese Cuisine 2775 W 16th Ave., Vancouver yuwa.ca
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Best Indian

★ DOSA CORNER

8248 Fraser St., Vancouver dosacorner.ca

Dosa Corner takes home gold for the first time for both its namesake dosas—the onion rava masala dosa is particularly lacy and crisp, the rice-and-lentil crepe offering a perfectly fermented chew—and its gorgeous biryanis, rich with whole pieces of tender meat (go for the bone-in goat biryani with aromatic basmati).

Silver winner Sachdeva Sweets’ superb Indian street food “feels and tastes homestyle, which is a real treat,” noted one judge. Cozy channa bhatura and terrific tandoori kulcha—naan stuffed with chopped red onions and mashed potatoes—are go-tos, along with made-inhouse addictive snack mixes. West Vancouver stalwart Swad serves “deeply resonant Indian flavours with local, delicate ingredients,” said one judge, earning the room the bronze this year. The goat curry manages to be both richly flavoured and light on the palate, a perfect pairing to warmly toasted tandoori roti. Sula’s fresh, bright menu showcases many regions of India and earns an honourable mention; the classics at fellow HM Vij’s remain outstanding: the

a★ Sachdeva Sweets

7500 120th St., Surrey sachdeva sweets.com

★ Swad

1734 Marine Dr., West Vancouver swadindian kitchen.ca

HONOURABLE MENTION

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Sula

Various locations sulaindian restaurant.com

Vij’s 3106 Cambie St., Vancouver vijs.ca

jackfruit and kale coconut curry and the portobello red pepper curry with paneer are as spectacular as ever.

44 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023 RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
PHOTOS BY LEILA KWOK
DOSA CORNER DOSA CORNER

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Best Chinese

CHEF’S CHOICE

955 W Broadway, Vancouver chefschoice1198.com

Contemporary

★ ANNALENA

1809 W 1st Ave., Vancouver annalena.ca

This category is fresh in every sense of the word. It’s a brand-new addition to the Restaurant Awards, replacing the former “Best West Coast.” And Best Contemporary celebrates modern culinary excellence: chefs that respect tradition, but aren’t beholden to it.

Earning the first-ever gold in this category is AnnaLena, a restaurant that also nabbed one of Vancouver’s first Michelin stars in 2022. Thanks to world-class tasting menus from chef Michael Robbins—also our Chef of the Year, see page 34—AnnaLena shines with imaginative, artistic, detailed dishes. (Case in point: BBQ chicken consommé with smoked cod, yam agnolotti and wakame oil.)

Silver belongs to L’Abattoir; our judges loved chef Lee Cooper’s sharp French technique and incorporation of distinctive Asian flavour (think steak tartare with

★ L’Abattoir

217 Carrall St., Vancouver labattoir.ca

★ Burdock and Co

2702 Main St., Vancouver burdockandco.com

HONOURABLE MENTION

Boulevard

Kitchen and Oyster Bar

845 Burrard St., Vancouver, boulevard vancouver.ca

bluefin tuna otoro and shiso). “It represents a real Vancouver point of view,” said one judge. And Burdock and Co (another Michelin winner) bags bronze for chef Andrea Carlson’s carefully crafted, plant-forward dishes (rosemary-smoked potato with black garlic, anyone?) that celebrate the best of local, seasonal ingredients.

It’s a three-peat for Chef’s : for the third year in a row, it’s landed gold in this ultra-competitive category. The restaurant is one of the few places in Vancouver (and possibly North America) executing restrained, Hong Kongstyle Cantonese cooking at the highest standard. Don’t miss the sticky chicken rice: boneless chicken is layered with toothsome sticky rice and deep-fried to perfect-crisp tenderness. A newcomer to these awards, The Fish Man slays the competition with silver, winning our judges over with chef Bo Li’s take on pairing B.C. seafood with traditional Sichuan flavours. The menu is full of winners, but one judge called the sour cabbage fish hotpot—ultra-thin slices of ling cod in a spicy soup—“worth celebrating alone.” Broadway mainstay Dynasty takes bronze, both for its excellent service and for showstopping dishes like the tower of crab with spicy garlic and

★ The Fish Man

8391 Alexandra Rd., Richmond fishman

restaurant.com

★ Dynasty

108–777

W Broadway, Vancouver dynastyrestaurant.ca iDen and Quanjude

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Beijing Duck House

2208 Cambie St., Vancouver quanjude vancouver.com

Mott 32

1161 W Georgia St., Vancouver mott32.com

46 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
sticky rice (coming to an Instagram feed near you).
ANNALENA
(ANNALENA) ALLISON KUHL; (CHEF’S CHOICE) TANYA GOEHRING CHEF’S CHOICE

Best French

a

★ ST. LAWRENCE

269 Powell St., Vancouver stlawrencerestaurant.com

Michelin-starred St. Lawrence takes home gold for the third time in this category, serving up chef J.C. Poirier’s rustic yet refined ode to Quebecois cuisine.

“St. Lawrence is simply irresistible,” raved one judge.

“Highly inventive, full-flavoured and unapologetically decadent.” Dishes like venison loin mini-tourtière and beef tartare with marinated mushrooms, foie gras and buckwheat make this Railtown spot a destination for local and international diners alike.

Tableau Bar Bistro earns silver for its French classics infused with West Coast style—order the mushrooms on toast (Pemberton Meadows mushrooms with rich madeira jus on sourdough)—along with its serious wine and bar program (hello, legendary happy hour) and faithfully French experience. Bronze goes to the charming Au Comptoir for its authentic

★ Tableau

Bar Bistro

1181 Melville St., Vancouver tableaubar bistro.com

★ Au Comptoir 2278 W 4th Ave., Vancouver aucomptoir.ca

HONOURABLE MENTION

Provence Marinaside

1177 Marinaside Cres., Vancouver provence marinaside.ca

bistro ambiance and food that transports you and your tastebuds straight to Paris; Provence Marinaside gets the honourable mention for awesome seafood options, smart wine and live jazz.

48 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
ST. LAWRENCE

Best Latin American

★ SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN

3475 Main St., Vancouver suyo.ca

There’s a new kid in town that’s taking the Latin American scene by storm. Suyo Modern Peruvian may be less than a year old, but it’s already snagged the gold in this category (and our coveted Best New award; see page 38). Chef Ricardo Valverde’s Peruvian roots shine through in the complex flavours of the scallop tiradito, catch of the day with Peruvian spices, and AAA tenderloin lomo saltado—flavour feats that had one judge declaring Suyo to be “one of my most unique dining experiences in a long time.” Monarca Cocina Mexicana takes silver for its impressive taco lineup and hearty meals like the filete en mole de frambuesa (a juicy 7-oz beef tenderloin with truffle corn esquites and raspberry mole). Ophelia gets bronze thanks to a revamped menu and

★ Monarca Cocina Mexicana

181 Carrall St., Vancouver monarca vancouver.ca

★ Ophelia

165 W 2nd Ave., Vancouver opheliakitchen.ca

HONOURABLE MENTION

La Mezcaleria

1622 Commercial Dr., Vancouver lamezcaleria.ca

standout dishes like the corn-crusted octopus with white mole. And every visit to honourable mention La Mezcaleria is a chance to sample the best agave spirits in town while chowing down on casual and authentic Mexican eats.

VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023 49 RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
ST. LAWRENCE SUYO MODERN PERUVIAN

Best Italian

★ OCA PASTIFICIO

1260 Commercial Dr., Vancouver ocapastificio.com

As usual in this ultracompetitive category, it was an epic showdown. But the Drive’s ode to fresh pasta emerges victorious: Oca Pastificio earns the coveted gold. Dishes like the romaine and chicory salad with oil-cured anchovy fillets and roasted red peppers and the tagliatelle with wine-rosemary braised rabbit ragu are served up in a jewel box of a room. “Oca has a level of consistency rarely seen in restaurants these days,” said one judge.

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill and Enoteca earns silver for chef Pino Posteraro’s classic take on Italian and Mediterranean fare, blending tradition, modernity and a touch of Japanese aesthetic—look for the veal ossobuco, the Fraser Valley duck or the spicy medley of sustainable fish and seafood in bouillabaisse broth with rouille. La Quercia’s rustic Italian cuisine (think classics like the

★ Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill and Enoteca

1133 Hamilton St., Vancouver cioppinos yaletown.com

★ La Quercia

3689 W 4th Ave., Vancouver laquercia.ca

HONOURABLE MENTION

Caffè La Tana

635 Commercial Dr., Vancouver caffelatana.ca

Best Casual

★ CHANCHO

TORTILLERIA

2096 Commercial Dr., Vancouver chancho.ca

The gold winner of our Best Casual category, Chancho Tortilleria, offers proof that gourmet flavours can be served up on a paper-lined tin tray. Tortillas are often merely the vessel for delivering some attention-grabbing filling—but at Chancho, the made-from-scratch, heirloom-corn wrappers are as beautiful as the hearty carnitas they’re designed to hold. We love the per-pound ordering system; sides as simple as guac and chips are dynamite. Silver winner Fat Mao Noodles recently opened a downtown room to join its Chinatown outpost, doubling chef Angus An’s service of bowl after bowl of crave-worthy Thai noodle soups (Khao Soi chicken curry noodles are a fave). Richmond’s HK BBQ Master takes bronze this year with

★ Fat Mao Noodles

Multiple locations fatmaonoodles.com

gemelli alla carbonara and chicken scaloppine ai porcini) earns it the bronze. And neighbour hood favourite Ca ff è La Tana gets an hon ourable mention for its morning-hour menu in particular: the traditional pastries and robust espresso delighted our judges’ palates.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

★ HK BBQ Master 4651 No. 3 Rd., Richmond instagram.com/ hkbbqmaster Douce Diner 1490 Pemberton Ave., North Vancouver doucediner.com

Potluck Hawker Eatery 3424 Cambie St., Vancouver potluckyvr.ca

barbecued meats that are worth the trip to the ’burbs—said one judge, “It

50 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
OCA PASTIFICIO CHANCHO TORTILLERIA

Made for patio weather.

Reserve your table online.

Tuna Poke Bowl

Best African & Caribbean

★ KILIMANJARO SNACK HOUSE

789 Kingsway, Vancouver kilisnackhouse.com

Gold winner Kilimanjaro

Snack House celebrates an unsung yet pervasive cuisine in our city: East African Ismaili Indian, its flavours rooted in central Asia and India—think silk road spices meeting tropical coconut and cassava in dishes like creamy coconut goat curry or chicken akni with cassava stew, brightened up with a side of carrot pickles and piping hot paratha. Davie Street’s Arike takes home silver for chef Sam Olayinka’s skilled techniques and elegant balance of PNW ingredients, creating inventive updates to traditional Nigerian dishes (boar ragout with cured tomato vinaigrette and Parmesan, or chicken dumpling with mango talkari). “The dishes are not a simple replating of traditional dishes,” noted one judge, “but reflect balance and intelligent re-composition so that flavours unfold on the palate in a beautiful narrative.” Bronze winner Baby Dhal ’s comforting

Trinidadian cuisine brings terrific heat and deep, luscious flavours—don’t leave without the classic Trini street food known as

a★ Arike 1725 Davie St., Vancouver arikerestaurant.com

★ Baby Dhal

2707 Commercial Dr., Vancouver babydhalroti.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Fassil

736 E Broadway, Vancouver fassil.ca

Calabash Bistro

428 Carrall St., Vancouver calabashbistro.com

doubles: soul-warming chickpea curry between two pieces of fry bread. Honourable mentions go to the warm and comforting Fassil for classic Ethiopian dishes and the alwaysbuzzy Calabash Bistro, where playful dishes like Kung Fu roti (and live music) lead to dancing the night away.

52 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023 RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
PHOTOS BY LEILA KWOK KILIMANJARO SNACK HOUSE KILIMANJARO SNACK HOUSE
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Best Chain

★ CACTUS CLUB CAFE

Various locations cactusclubcafe.com

They say if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. But the team at gold winner Cactus Club Cafe continues to innovate (don’t sleep on the new rigatoni bolognese with tru ff led pecorino), despite their solid lineup of tried-and-true dishes (hello again, Szechuan chicken lettuce wraps). Our judges celebrated the test kitchen’s executive chef of culinary development, Gregory McCallum (L’Abattoir, Le Crocodile), and called the restaurant, which has over 20 B.C. locations, “undeniable in its enduring appeal.”

La Taqueria takes the silver for delicious, traditional Mexican recipes executed in always-lively rooms, plus a rockstar brunch menu that covers the classics (enmoladas with red rice, mole sauce and queso fresco) and includes a few rulebreakers (a breakfast sandwich with maple syrup carnitas). And tied for bronze are Nuba and Guu: the former for a nourishing, vibrant menu and the latter for exciting, meticulous small plates.

a★ La Taqueria

Various locations lataqueria.com

★ Guu Izakaya

Various locations guu-izakaya.com

★ Nuba

Various locations nuba.ca

54 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★ COURTESY OF CACTUS CLUB CAFE
CACTUS CLUB CAFE CACTUS CLUB CAFE CACTUS CLUB CAFE

the Naramata Bench

WWW.NARAMATABENCH.COM naramatawines
Savour
The Naramata Bench is located on the unceded, traditional territory of the Syilx (Okanagan) people. We are grateful to grow grapes and our families on this land.

Best Japanese

★ MASAYOSHI

4376 Fraser St., Vancouver masayoshi.ca

Best Korean

★ ZOOMAK

KOREAN TAVERN

52 Alexander St., Vancouver zoomakyvr.com

Gold winner Zoomak

Korean Tavern takes the crown for a second year running thanks to a truly delightful dining experience inspired by old-school Korean Gastown, but the à la carte options mix French and Korean flavours and techniques to create something unlike any menu in town—chadol doenjang miso and beef brisket stew alongside gochujang-tinged tartare. “It’s giving fusion a good name,” remarked one judge. Kook Korean BBQ takes silver, with quality meats and premium cuts that set the bar high—plus an impressive selection of banchan to match. Bronze winner Hanwoori Korean Restaurant may be located in a Metrotown strip mall, but it’s a legend for a reason: cozy around the tabletop grill and pass around spicy-soft tofu stew and you’re transported.

★ Kook Korean BBQ 2800 E 1st Ave., Vancouver kookbbq.ca

★ Hanwoori Korean Restaurant 5740 Imperial St., Burnaby hanwoori.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Wang Ga Ma 329 North Rd., Coquitlam wanggama .webflow.io

Joong Won 1329 Robson St., Vancouver 778-379-4222

Honourable mentions go to stars Wang Ga Ma (the restaurant’s name means “giant pot”) and Joong Won , Robson Street’s go-to for Chinese-style Korean dishes.

Incredible precision and thoughtful creativity make up the OMG-worthy omakase that earns Masayoshi the gold in this category. From masterful techniques (deftly executed knife skills) down to basic essentials (rice that is perfectly cooked and seasoned), chef Masayoshi Baba shows diners how it’s done at close range. Poached Royal Miyagi oysters are dressed with shirako paste, housemade mullet roe and yuzu peel before your eyes. “No false luxuries, nothing show-o ff y, no shortcuts,” remarked one of our judges.

Silver is awarded to Yuwa for a menu that demonstrates excellence, beauty and variety, from sockeye salmon tartare to sweet soy-braised steak to fluff y steamed manjuu—not to mention friendly, informed and elegant service.

★ Yuwa

Japanese Cuisine

2775 W 16th Ave., Vancouver yuwa.ca

★ Stem Japanese Eatery

5205 Rumble St., Burnaby stemjapanese.ca Sushi Hil

HONOURABLE MENTION

3330 Main St., Vancouver sushihil.com

Stem takes the bronze thanks to fresh, hyperseasonal dishes that are full on the palate and not so hard on the wallet (the five-course mini omakase is $95), and newcomer Sushi Hil (more on page 38) earns an honourable mention.

56 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023 RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
PHOTO BY LEILA KWOK MASAYOSHI
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a Best Thai

★ MAENAM

1938 W 4th Ave., Vancouver maenam.ca

Maenam returns to the top of the charts this year after a brief 2022 dip to silver: welcome back, old friend. Despite the fact Chef Angus An is now juggling a culinary empire (see: Fat Mao, Longtail, the other Fat Mao, et cetera), Maenam continues to up the ante for the city’s Thai scene. “So complex, yet balanced and intriguing—some blaze boldly, others are expressed more delicately,” said one judge. Song by Kin Kao places silver this year, still riding high from its pandemic pivots. When they could have been selling casual Thai food for takeout during the darkest days of COVID, they took a riskier, experimental route. The result? “Even the tofu excites me here,” said one judge. Bronze winner Unchai goes beyond the Canadianified Thai cannon (no offense, pad thai) to bring regional specialties to life: moo cook foon (grilled pork salad) and khaw kling (spicy dry-fried curry paste with ground chicken). Honourable mentions go to Baan Lao and Longtail Kitchen—the former high-end, the latter happily casual, but both excelling in the art of tasty Thai.

★ Song by Kin Kao 317 E Broadway, Vancouver songyvr.com

★ Unchai 2351 Burrard St., Vancouver unchai.ca

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Baan Lao 100 Bayview St., Richmond baanlao.ca

Longtail Kitchen

810 Quayside Dr., New Westminster longtailkitchen.com

58 VANMAG.COM MA Y/JUNE 2023
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
PHOTOS BY ALAINA MICHELLE PHOTOGRAPHY MAENAM MAENAM

St. Lawrence offers a marriage of classic French cuisine and the gastronomic identity and culture of Les Québécois. At its heart, St. Lawrence showcases time-honoured traditions in an elevated-yet-approachable space where food, drink and atmosphere combine for a transportive dining experience unlike any other.

One of the most celebrated restaurants in Canada, St. Lawrence was proudly awarded One Star by the Michelin Guide in 2022.

269 POWELL STREET | (604) 620-3800 | STLAWRENCERESTAURANT.COM

OF THE YEAR

★ FANNY BAY fannybayoysters.com

Oysters get us excited. Not just because they’re believed to boost libido; the local oysters served by our neighbourhood restaurants are top-notch. And if you’re emptying shells at L’Abattoir, Fish Man, Como Taperia, Boulevard

Kitchen and Oyster Bar, or 30-plus other restaurants in the city, chances are the oysters you’re enjoying are from our 2023 Vanmag Restaurant Awards

Producer of the Year: Fanny Bay. One judge voted in Fanny Bay’s favour for “sheer complexity, scale, sustainability and quality,” and many others remarked that the recognition is well-deserved given the company’s 40-plus-year history of providing awesome shellfish to Vancouver and beyond. Shuck yeah.

Best Steakhouse

★ ELISA

1109 Hamilton St., Vancouver elisasteak.com

This year’s grill master is Elisa: the Yaletown steakhouse takes the gold. Elisa’s contemporary take on traditional steakhouse dining brings the focus to regional cuts and styles and consistent delivery of top-quality food, wine and cocktails. And it’s more than steak love—as one judge noted, “I swoon for Franco Michienzi’s wine program and harbour a pretty intense passion for that tru ff le-roasted chicken.” Hy’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar clinched silver for its timeless techniques, exceptional service and reliability. The cheese toast is famously irresistible, and the beef Wellington with foie gras and oyster mushroom duxelle is legendary.

Gotham Steakhouse and Bar takes home the bronze for dishes like the incredible A5 wagyu striploin and organic sturgeon caviar appetizers, making it the perfect happy hour destination.

And The Victor nabs an honourable mention for its superb staffand topof-the-line cuts.

★ Hy’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar

637 Hornby St., Vancouver hyssteakhouse.com

★ Gotham Steakhouse and Bar

615 Seymour St., Vancouver gothamsteak house.com

HONOURABLE

MENTION

60 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
The Victor 39 Smithe St., Vancouver parqvancouver.com LEILA KWOK
ELISA
ELISA

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR

★ FRANCO MICHIENZI

Elisa

An industry mentor can make or break the nascent somm. Our 2023 Sommelier of the Year proves it: he worked under no fewer than five of this award’s alumni on his way up. In the early 1990s, Franco Michienzi was a young B.Sc grad from Western who found his way to Whistler for the season. He heard you could make more money serving if you knew about wine, so he started spending his off-hours studying all things vino.

But Michienzi happened to be working at Araxi. Back then, the restaurant’s deep cellar was directed by Chris van Nus (SOTY 2007), who started Michienzi’s tutelage in the intricacies of fine wine. After relocating back to Vancouver, Michienzi found work at C Restaurant, where Tom Doughty (SOTY 2005) took the apprenticeship reins. Then it was Owen Knowlton (SOTY 2011) at West. Then there was a lengthy stint at Hawksworth, where he worked first under Terry Threlfall (SOTY 2012) and then Brant Mao (SOTY 2015)—and beside Roger Maniwa (SOTY 2016).

It was Mao who recognized that Michienzi was poised to take the next step, resulting in him

becoming the opening sommelier at Elisa in 2019.

It’s here that Michienzi’s dedication and focus really shines: Elisa has a stunning list in several respects. For starters, it throws many of the tired conventions of a steakhouse list out the window— sure, there are big Cali cabs and Super Tuscans, but they’re not the focus. Nor are the prices the usual gougefest that beef houses love to engage in. It does have the depth of a steakhouse list (6,000 bottles and counting), but those selections are spread out over Michienzi’s passions: Burgundy, local growers, oddities from unheralded regions.

And it’s not just the bottles: it’s the manner in which they’re delivered that causes those who interact with Michienzi to come away with a smile. He’s seemingly allergic to upsells (breaking another classic steakhouse hallmark) and he stocks more bottles under $80 than most casual bistros. He also has a dedicated staffthat embraces the glory of this un-steakhouse list. And, like Michienzi before them, each can now say they learned from a Sommelier of the Year.

Best B.C. Wine List

★ WATER ST. CAFE

300 Water St., Vancouver waterstreetcafe.ca

★ Stem Japanese Eatery 5205 Rumble St., Burnaby stemjapanese.ca

“Xanadu’s

When these awards first started out, having a category like this would have been tricky—most somms included a bottle or two of B.C. wine to be supportive, but the idea that a serious list would keep its focus on B.C. would have been amusing. That said, there were pioneers—Raincity Grill and later Aurora Bistro showed that it was possible to be serious and local at the same time. The inaugural winners in this category channel much of that sense of adventure. First up is the stalwart Water St. Cafe, whose prime location in tourist-heavy Gastown makes it a key ambassador of what this province can do with grapes. The list here is both thoughtful and broad: there are 80 bottles and dozens of vintages on offer— everything from albarino to zinfandel. Earning the silver is the smaller but beautifully crafted list at Burnaby’s Stem—it proves there’s truly no cuisine that B.C. wine can’t make better. That’s also an ethos at bronze winner My Shanti, where longtime industry champion Vikram Vij goes all-local with pours like the custom Vij’s Lanterns from Kismet Winery—a perfect match for his trailblazing menu.

★ My Shanti 15869 Croydon Dr., Surrey vijs.ca/my-shanti

“Fresh red cherry, a hint of earthiness and a nice depth of flavour makes this a great pairing for our bison tartare.”

RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
(MICHIENZI) CHANTAL BENNETT ILLUSTRATION
MICHIENZI’S WINE PICKS PODERE SAN CRISTOFORO 2020 X Pink Maremma Tuscany, Italy
“The lightly pressed sangiovese showcases the purity of its fruit in this biodynamic rosé.”
XANADU 2015 X Chardonnay Margaret River, Australia
chardonnay, with a little time in the bottle, brings together every element of why I love chardonnay.”
THORLE 2019 X Holle Spatburgunder Rheinhessen, Germany
VANMAG.COM MA Y/J UNE 2023 61 ★

BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

★ DYLAN

RICHES

Published on Main

Everyone has made a cocktail at some juncture. A few have worn the mantle of bartender for a spell; fewer still have crafted drinks with a high degree of precision and rigour. And at the top of this mixology pyramid are the chosen ones who had a lightbulb moment, realizing that their true passion lies in the lifelong pursuit of the perfect drink.

Published on Main’s Dylan Riches has made all of these stops in his career. First, slinging basic drinks and shucking oysters at Whet and the Fish Shack, then at a higher level to the wellheeled clientele of Coast and Black and Blue. And then, a step up again to the more rarefied aesthetic of Yaletown’s Brix and Mortar. But it wasn’t until a yearlong sojourn to Hong Kong (and a prominent role at that city’s legendary The Old Man) that Riches ascended to the peak of the pyramid. The quest to dedicate himself to the craft became a single-minded focus, and a night at work might mean hand-making 250 cocktails for the waves of aficionados who make the reverential journey to experience that world-famous bar. For Riches, working at The Old Man felt like “you and 40 of your best friends are in a room together for the evening.”

But home called—and then, serendipity. On his first night back in Vancouver, Riches found himself eating at Main Street’s Old Bird with a friend who suggested they amble over to some new place called Published for a nightcap. Walking in, he felt that vibe of camaraderie that he’d

experienced in Hong Kong—and they were looking for someone to tend bar.

That was three years ago, and the ride for both Published and Riches has been... ascendent. His drink program mirrors the ethos of the restaurant. “We try to deliver a sense of home—a place to be comfortable,” says Riches. He aims to craft drinks that are either “very familiar in an unexpected way” or “something entirely new, but approachable.” He runs a bar staffthat strives for personal growth with each menu, with a focus that never loses its sense of playfulness. For example: the cult fave pina colada, which melds nostalgia and experimentation in equal measures. It’s this balance—in outlook and in cocktails—that has elevated Riches to our 2023 Bartender of the Year.

The Judges

★ Joie Alvaro Kent co-authored Where the River Narrows and Maenam: A Fresh Approach to Thai Cooking. She is Vancouver’s senior judge for the Canadian Culinary Championships, and has written for NUVO, Sweet Potato and Eater

★ Hussain Askari grew up in the UAE, studied wine in Australia and has been in the Vancouver wine trade for the past decade. He is the director of operations for Wine Vault.

★ Gail Johnson is an award-winning journalist who has covered Vancouver’s food and dining community for the last 20 years, including five as food columnist for CBC Radio. She is co-founder of Stir, an online magazine dedicated exclusively to local arts and culture, including culinary arts, dining and wine.

★ Anya Levykh is a writer, editor and host of The Nosh radio show, covering the people, places and issues behind what we eat and drink.

★ Lee Man is a founding judge for the Chinese Restaurant Awards and a longtime contributor to Vancouver, Montecristo and other magazines.

★ Brendon Mathews is a freelance food writer with expertise in Chinese cuisine, and a judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards.

★ Mijune Pak is an international food and travel personality, Food Network Canada entertainer, judge on Top Chef Canada and Iron Chef Canada and host of Michelin Vancouver.

★ Tim Pawsey writes and shoots at HiredBelly.com, and for Quench, Taste, Vitis, Edible Vancouver Island and @hiredbelly.

★ Iris Yim is an experienced editor who has worked in both Hong Kong and Vancouver. She writes about travel and gourmet dining for EliteGen, Boulevard, BCBay.com, her blog Gourmet Vancouver and more.

★ Rasoul Salehi is a wine-industry veteran, a certified Spanish wine educator and a managing partner at LaStella Winery. He has an everlasting passion for the study of all things gastronomy.

★ Sylvia Potvin is the owner of Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, Vancouver’s premier professional culinary education training centre.

★ Joanne Sasvari is the editor of YAM, Vitis and The Alchemist magazines, and contributes to Food & Wine, Shondaland and Destination BC. She is the author of the IACP Awardshortlisted Wickaninnish Cookbook and forthcoming Okanagan Eats, as well as the culinary memoir Paprika

★ Jacob Sweetapple is an award-winning bartender and managing partner at Notion Concepts, where he aims to elevate drinking culture around the world through innovative beverage ideation and education.

★ Mia Stainsby is the longtime restaurant critic at the Vancouver Sun and Province newspapers.

★ Lindsay WilliamRoss is the managing editor of Vancouver Is Awesome and the lifelong foodie behind V.I.A.’s “Forking Awesome” newsletter and TikTok. She was previously the food editor of Daily Hive, senior editor of Vancity Buzz and editor-in-chief of LAist.com.

62 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 (RICHES) CHANTAL
ILLUSTRATION;
BENNETT
(PUBLISHED ON MAIN) SARAH ANNAND
RESTAURANT
2023 ★
AWARDS

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Lifetime Achievement

Our Restaurant Awards celebrate the very best of the city’s culinary scene—quality ingredients, perfectly executed techniques and elevated innovations from Vancouver’s most talented chefs. Food is an art, indeed, but it’s also an essential: an essential that many of us can take for granted.

When you’re a chef working in a shelter for people experiencing homelessness, trying to puzzle together a budget and implement a plan to properly feed those in need, the necessity of food—and cooks—becomes much more apparent. The winner of our 2023 Lifetime Achievement Award, Don Guthro, was leading the kitchen team for a North Shore nonprofit in 2007 when he decided the industry needed a shakeup. And, like all great capers, he made it an inside job.

Guthro started using the few resources he had to train beginner cooks, and served the food from that training to neighbours who accessed the shelter. This model became the basis for the North Shore Culinary Education Society of BC, founded by Guthro in 2010. “I saw a disconnect between what was happening in our industry and the availability of education and training,” he says. “There are people with lower income that cannot afford to go to culinary schools because of tuition costs.”

Working with local nonprofits, Guthro and his staff and students—all with fully

sponsored tuitions—developed a series of e ff icient, hearty meal programs. At one point, they were producing 1,200 meals a day. “We focused on giving high-quality food to those who need it, and in the meantime gave our students an opportunity to work and learn on the job,” he explains. (All students were paid for their work.) His brick-and-mortar culinary school graduated over 700 students.

But that wasn’t enough. There was still a major systemic barrier to tackle: geography.

Guthro himself grew up in a farming community just outside of St. Marys, Ontario. He was raised by his mother and has four siblings: “There wasn’t much opportunity because we didn’t have a lot of money,” he remembers. After graduating high school early, he moved to Toronto to attend Canada’s National Ballet School (yes, this chef and Lifetime Achievement Award winner was also a professional dancer), and took culinary classes in the evenings.

“I think that’s where my being a workaholic comes in—I used to do a lot when I was younger and I just continued that through my whole career,” he admits. “I work seven days a week, and it drives a lot of people around me crazy.”

And perhaps to honour that hardworking Ontario farm kid, Guthro launched D.I.C.E.D. (Diverse Innovation in Culinary Educational Development): a virtual cooking school. “It doesn’t matter if you’re in the big city or a small community—we wanted to make the education

accessible for everyone,” says the chef. D.I.C.E.D.’s online education program started in early 2020, before the COVID pandemic began. Remote learning, before it was cool.

D.I.C.E.D. intakes 40 students, three times per year. Participants must be working in one of the school’s partnering restaurants full-time, and practical exams are done under the expert eye of a mentoring chef. “We take care of all of the theory, lectures and videos,” explains Guthro, “but instead of the students having to travel to a production kitchen, the industry supports us from within.”

Students of D.I.C.E.D. continue to work full-time throughout the program, so the schooling doesn’t interfere with how the partnering restaurant runs their kitchen— and as the students progress, they can take on more responsibility at work. “At the end of the day, I just want the industry

to understand that we are here to support, not to take away,” says Guthro.

Once graduated from the 40-week program, D.I.C.E.D. alumni can challenge their level 1 and level 2 certification in B.C. (the program follows all

64 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 (FOOD) LEILA KWOK
We don’t have a lot of marketing dollars so, for me, getting to share what we do is awesome. I just like to keep quiet and keep positive.”

ITA certification requirements).

And, all-in, participating in the program costs less than $900.

Guthro takes nothing for granted: literally, there are no grants involved. The chef keeps D.I.C.E.D. completely self-sustaining through the

D.I.C.E.D Discovery restaurant at Jericho Beach, his executive chef catering service, a food truck and a recently launched knife manufacturing company called DICEDKnives. (And psst—he’s opening another restaurant, D.I.C.E.D. on Main,

this May.) Profits from all of his endeavours go to keeping the school’s program up-to-date, and keeping tuition low.

“We don’t have a lot of marketing dollars—so, for me, getting to share what we do is awesome,” says Guthro (who,

UNSUNG HERO

Chef Don Guthro supports the industry from within by providing financially accessible culinary training that his students can complete while working full-time in a partnering restaurant.

at the time of this interview, didn’t know he’d won our Lifetime Achievement Award). “I just like to keep quiet and keep positive.”

Sorry for putting you in the spotlight, Don—but you deserve it.

(PORTRAITS) TANYA GOEHRING VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 65
RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★

Premier Crew

“Service with a smile” is only part of the equation: the public-facing stars of Vancouver’s restaurant industry bring knowledge, guidance and thoughtfulness to the table. Here are the bartenders, servers, managers and more that our Restaurant Awards judges adore.

Front of house management, Dynasty Seafood

“In the high-pressure world of Chinese fine dining, May’s long tenure (28 years, the last 14 at Dynasty) is a real rarity. May leavens attentive formality with a good dose of genuine West Coast warmth, setting even the most neophyte diners at ease, and has introduced generations of loyal customers to the delicious wonders and intricacies of Cantonese banquet dishes.”

—judge Lee Man

“Kind, professional, thoughtful, attentive—Chad truly is the essential host, quietly ensuring that everything will be perfect, no matter what fires he might be putting out behind the scenes.”

—judge Joanne Sasvari

“Tara’s time immersed in the vibrant culture of Mexico is well-represented in the drinks and atmosphere she creates— all of which are amplified by her gracious and welcoming spirit. Her skill, thoughtfulness and joy are evident in the venues and menus she creates and represents so well.”

—judge Lindsay William-Ross

★ MAY TAI
TANYA GOEHRING; ON LOCATION AT HOMER ST. CAFE 66 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
PHOTO BY
★ CHAD CLARK Director of operations, L’Abattoir ★ TARA DAVIES Manager, Chupito and Cantina 189

★ PETER VAN DE REEP

Bar manager, sommelier and server, Bar Gobo

“Peter is a pillar of the restaurant community, loved by his guests and industry alike. His ability to encompass a world-class imbibing experience in a casual setting is merely part of what makes him a truly incredible host. Imbued with knowledge and hospitality, he always thoughtfully guides guests toward a fantastic evening.”

★ STEVE EDWARDS

General manager, Homer St. Cafe

“Steve is a veteran of our hospitality industry. His smile and graciousness are always on display, and he immediately makes patrons feel welcome and at home. He is very detail-oriented and highly knowledgeable: easily one of the greats of our awesome dining scene.”

★ STEPHEN WHITESIDE

Co-owner, sommelier and barman, Dachi, Elephant and Hānai

“Stephen is a master at making a room— and team—shine. His presence and leadership give the already-charming Dachi a polished, elegant yet still lighthearted and neighbourly vibe that ensures newcomers and regulars alike feel like they’re visiting an old friend.”

★ BRITTANY HOORNE

Wine director, Bar Susu

“Brittany is a paragon of finesse and delightful charm amidst Bar Susu’s vibrant buzz, establishing a warm, easy rapport with guests. In knowledgeably championing low-intervention wines from small producers, she deftly approaches wine pairings with intelligence, creativity and a touch of whimsy.”

—judge Joie Alvaro Kent
VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 67 RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023 ★
—judge Rasoul Salehi —judge Anya Levykh —judge Hussain Askari
Congratulations to all winners and nominees Thank you for making our city delicious
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RESTAURANT GUIDE Thank you Vancouver Magazine for nominating us for Best Japanese! 2054 Commercial Drive kishimotorestaurant.com @kishimoto.restaurant 604-255-5550 OPEN Tuesday-Sunday from 5:00 pm 1 Thankful for the last 24 years 1129/1133 HAMILTON STREET, VANCOUVER, BC V6B 5P6 CIOPPINOSYALETOWN.COM R ESTAU R ANT AWA RDS 2O23 FINALIST

WE TAKE COMFORT FOOD SERIOUSLY

RESTAURANT GUIDE
YUWA.CA Award-winning Japanese fine dining.
RESTAURANT GUIDE Thank you Vancouver Magazine judges and readers for naming Mẹ’s Chilli Fish Sauce as 2022 Best “Made In Vancouver” savoury food product. Our second generation of artisanal sauces just dropped and are going retail! anhandchi.com Follow our saucy journey at IG: @mes_marketplace @anhandchi @anhandchiyvr @anhandchi
• Open 7 days a week • Complimentary Parking • Also open for Breakfast and Brunch for the Restaurant Award nomination in the category of BEST STEAKHOUSE Located in the Century Plaza Hotel 1015 Burrard Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1Y5 T (604) 684 3474 | F (604) 682 5790 WWW.CPRIME.CA | res@cprime.ca THANK YOU
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fresh. local. inspired. an uncompromising standard of excellence 845 burrard street, vancouver bc | 604-642-2900 | info@boulevardvancouver.ca CANADA’S BEST #9 VAN MAG 2020 RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR CANADIAN CULINARY CHAMPION 2020 IRON CHEF CANADA CHAMPION CHEF ALEX CHEN CHEF ROGER MA RESTAURANT GUIDE
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Named after Chef Higareda’s mother, Ophelia specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine prepared with a refined, elevated approach. For Chef Higareda, it’s a true honour to pay homage to his mother and return to his roots.

The

tradition continues here at Monarca where you’ll find playful dishes and a lively atmosphere inspired by Chef

father who lived near the famous Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary in central Mexico’s Michoacán region.

165 W 2ND AVE | 604 800 5253 181 CARRALL ST | 604 569 2258
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Higareda’s
monarcavancouver.ca @monarcavancouver
@opheliavancouver
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Sushi Jin: Entrust yourself to Premium Omakase with Chef Jin

Omakase—to entrust oneself—is the ultimate expression of trust to a sushi chef and an unforgettable opportunity to expand one’s sushi experiences to include new, incredible flavours you may never have imagined.

Premium omakase features 18 dishes that include live lobster sashimi, the best cuts of bluefin tuna, Hokkaido uni and luxury gunkan, among other delicacies. It is served over two hours and prepared entirely at the chef’s discretion, limited only by his imagination.

The secret to this unparalleled experience at Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Award Finalist Sushi Jin is Chef Jin’s impeccable attention to serving extraordinary food to extraordinary guests. With more than 25 years’ experience worldwide and expert training in both Japanese and French cuisine, Chef Jin takes diners on a unique culinary journey.

“Chef Jin keeps to the traditional

sushi style, also known as Edomae Sushi, but adds his skills in French cuisine and a contemporary artistic flair,” says Teri Jang, owner of Sushi Jin. “He also provides special items that other sushi chefs typically can’t put in the course, such as Otoro Hagashi or Kamatoro.”

His dishes weigh heavily on live ingredients, such as lobster, snow crab, abalone, spot prawn, King salmon from New Zealand, which is Chef Jin’s favorite salmon, and Gindara Saikyo Yaki, his specialty grilled cod.

Sushi Jin was established in November 2018 and now exclusively offers premium omakase by reservation only. The finest ingredients are imported within two weeks of your reservation for ultimate freshness and quality in every bite.

“Omakase is simply but unique,” Jang says. “Chef Jin depends on the freshest fish or ingredients aged to enhance flavour and texture to create the wow factor. Using the best ingredients means it doesn’t

need extra flavouring. That makes it simple. For dishes that do require some extra seasoning, Chef Jin uses a special, unique blend.”

Of course, there’s also the experience. “The first reason omakase is special is that people can watch me prepare the food,” says Chef Jin. “There is nothing to hide. The customer feels comfortable and part of the experience.”

“The second reason is that I prepare only the finest and best Japanese fish and local ingredients. Omakase is perfect for someone finds it hard to decide what to have because they can just trust we have chosen the best.”

Visit sushijinvancouver.ca to book your omakase journey today. Reservations required ($300pp before tax & gratuity).

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Culinary adventurists with a discerning taste for sushi and an appetite for luxury will want to book a premium omakase experience with Sushi Jin the first chance they get
Visit Earls to experience THE SEAFOOD PLATTER Oysters, prawn cocktail, yuzu tuna tataki, crispy prawn roll, lobster tail, refreshing condiments

THE GREATEST OUTDOORS

This is your getaway guide for low-commitment, low-stress, high-reward travel: think amazing destinations that are just across the water, just over the mountains or just across the border. Turn the page for magical kayaking, top-notch golf, charming farm tours, exciting restaurants, unforgettable camping and more incredible inspiration for your next B.C., Alberta or Washington vacation.

much more enjoyable after visiting the farm’s very

LOCAL GETAWAYS
VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 81
Holy
Cow Wine tasting at Covert Farms Family Estates in Oliver, B.C., is that
majestic and very adorable bovine residents. More on page 96.

ON ISLAND TIME

One hour: that’s how quickly you could be in Victoria from Vancouver if you time your Harbour Air flight right. And with this itinerary for a Perfect Victoria Saturday (patent pending), you won’t be able to get the idea of a quick-toria day trip out of your head.

Brunch Down Under

Aussie-inspired Bear and Joey (left) has a menu just as beautiful as the whimsical decor. Case in point: the bread pudding served with poached eggs (right).

8 a.m.

The Carbo Load

Meade Design Group crafted the Instagram-bait interiors of Bear and Joey, decking out the Aussie-inspired café in soft pastels and mid-century-meets-art-nouveau touches. But the brunch menu wows as much as the interiors. The savoury-and-sweet bread pudding ($19) is the sort of photogenic and indulgent meal that inspires both a post-breakfast social media update and a nap.

10 a.m.

Take the Plunge

Ritual is a Scandinavian spa circuit experience just outside Victoria’s downtown core—think a compact Scandinave Spa. Run through the Nordic relaxation cycle—hot, cold, relax, repeat—at your own pace over the course of a twohour session (from $59), hopping between the cedar sauna, eucalyptus steam room, test-your-mettle cold plunge pool, bucket shower, salt lounge and fire pit as you see fit.

12:30 p.m.

To Market, to Market

Stop for a horchata latte and homemade toaster tart at the colourful, postmodern-cool Hey Happy before shop-hopping your way through Johnson Street and Market Square. Still Life curates lifestyle goods and fashion essentials—think quirky ceramics and perfect mid-rise jeans— while stalwart Paboom packs shelves with Danica Heirloom pinch bowls, waxed wood cutting boards and a huge selection of Baggu. A pit stop at teeny-tiny Ayo Eat for an Indonesian gado-gado wrap ($4) is a must—the peanut sauce will haunt your dreams (in a good way!).

82 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 Float plane illustration: Noun Project/Hey Rabbit
LOCAL GETAWAYS VICTORIA
Float plane illustration: Noun Project/Hey Rabbit

WINERY OF THE YEAR

BRITISH COLUMBIA 2023

A taste of Tuscany in the heart of the Okanagan

Hester Creek Estate Winery is located in British Columbia’s Wine Capital, Oliver. This is where our our roots run deep with old vines planted in 1968.

The breathtaking views, reminiscent of rolling Tuscan vineyards, encompass the historic Golden Mile Bench estate property where Hester Creek has gained recognition for its commitment to quality wines and gracious hospitality.

HESTER CREEK ESTATE WINERY

877 Road 8, Oliver, British Columbia, Canada (30 minutes south of Penticton - on Hwy 97)

ESTATE WINERY

With a world-class winemaking facility and Wine Shop, Hester Creek o ers complimentary tasting experiences and a large patio with a picnic area for friends and families to enjoy live music on weekends.

TERRAFINA

Meaning “Fine Earth,” Terra na o ers a Tuscan-style dining experience below a trellis of old vines. Inspired by ingredients from the estate garden, Chef Adair designs his menu to re ect the seasons of the valley.

THE VILLA

Situated at the pinnacle of the Golden Mile Bench, The Villa provides stunning views of the South Okanagan. Enjoy a complimentary bottle of wine on your private patio while gazing out at the miles of vineyards below.

VISIT US AT WWW.HESTERCREEK.COM @HESTERCREEK @HESTERCREEK @HESTERCREEK1968 BRITISHCOLUMBIA GNWW 2023

3 p.m.

Up, Up and Away

The Malahat SkyWalk is 35 minutes from Victoria by car—thrill-seekers, take note, and height-phobics, beware. It’s perched in the West Coast forest, allowing views for miles around: on a clear day, walk up the spiral ramp to find sightlines to Mount Baker and the Saanich Peninsula (the top is 250 metres above sea level).

The walkway from the visitor centre to the SkyWalk runs high above the ground, placing you among the arbutus treetops, but if that’s not thrilling enough, you’re welcome to kick back on a vertigo-inducing net at the top of the structure, or whip down the spiral slide back to the bottom in a few heart-pounding seconds. A solid selection of beers and coffee is available at the on-site cafés to steel your nerves ($35 for adult admission).

7 p.m.

Dining In

The Grand Pacific is giving a certain other hotel restaurant (we see you, Courtney Room) a run for its money with its newly revamped dining room, Fathom—and we welcome this healthy, gourmet competition. It’s easy to fill up on the plush milk buns—served with honey cashew butter, rosemary, rock salt and bee pollen ($9)—but the squid-ink spaghetti vongole is a winning main, topped with a generous portion of tiger prawns and trout caviar ($38). Chef Peter Kim (formerly of Blue Water, Glowbal, Fairmont and Seaside Provisions) takes plenty of inspiration from Japanese cuisine: the halibut is served with miso custard and potato tobiko dumplings ($40), while the buttery sablefish ($41) comes on a plate of mind-bending “nori sand.” Grab a window seat as you tuck in so you can scope out the majestic Empress and watch the sailboats as they drift around the harbour.

10 p.m.

Toast to a Perfect Day

Mid-century-inspired tiki bar Citrus and Cane is the ideal venue for a nightcap. Over an order of spicy coconut margarita (made with Sons of Vancouver chili vodka and toasted coconut orgeat, $17), start scheming up a game plan for your next Victoria escape

84 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
Nature High The Malahat SkyWalk is 250 metres above sea level—and the spiral slide is totally worth the workout it takes to get to the top. Dinner Date Don’t sleep on the milk buns in Fathom, the new dining room in the Grand Pacific Hotel.
LOCAL GETAWAYS VICTORIA
Fathom: F. Lee Green; Citrus and Cane: Johann Vincent

Wellness in Whistler—Your Ultimate Early Summer Retreat

with

The Farm to Table Dinner Series on Friday evenings is your chance to savour locally sourced food, expertly crafted into delectable, multi-course meals. On Saturdays, Trip to the Farm takes visitors to Pemberton with wellness expert Astrid Cameron Kent, who leads a rejuvenating journey through four local farms each with a unique story and character. Become the ultimate grill master and learn the secrets to creating perfectly grilled meats, vegetables and seafood at Grillin’ & Chillin’ on Saturday afternoons.

You know you need it: time to embrace the moments of pause and sink into nature’s serenity. Whistler’s mountain environment, with gorgeous, 360° views and tucked away from the stresses of city life, is the perfect environment to disconnect and reconnect with wellness—and June is the best month to take advantage of all Whistler has to offer, including some special events.

Transformational experiences

Whistler is home to several spas and wellness facilities, offering hydrotherapy, massage, aesthetics treatments and a complete range of body work. Stretch out after a day of exploring with yoga or learn some new dance moves at one of Whistler’s well-equipped studios, gyms and fitness facilities. The temperate rainforest creates the ultimate backdrop for forest bathing, the art of basking in the lush sensory wonders of the forest.

Download the Go Whistler Tours app and explore Lost Lake, Emerald Forest or Riverside/Farside Trail.

Active relaxation

The legendary Whistler Bike Park, award-winning golf courses, breathtaking glacier-fed lakes, lush forests and waterfalls are all linked by a network of paved trails, so you can discover Whistler at your own pace. Zipline adventures offer thrill above the treeline, and ATV tours offer up an exciting day of wilderness exploration. Feeling fit? Check out the Whistler Half Marathon, the Run Comfy Numb trail race or XFONDO all-terrain bike race for a unique challenge.

Nourish

Whistler has plenty of delicious and diverse dining experiences, but the month’s highlight is the Nourish Spring Series Presented by Cornucopia—a series of wellness-focused culinary events on weekends throughout June.

Top it all off with the Wellness Dinner Series, hosted at the exceptional Bearfoot Bistro. Guests will enjoy a luxurious four- or fivecourse meal prepared by Executive Chef Melissa Craig, one of Canada’s best chefs.

Nothing ends the weekend like Sunday Brunch at Station House on the tranquil shores of Alta Lake. Take a scenic walk to the brunch location with stunning views from the Valley Trail, then enjoy mouthwatering, healthy dishes prepared by renowned chefs.

Stay longer

The longer you stay in Whistler, the deeper the rejuvenation. Stay three or more nights in June and receive a free $100 Wellness Voucher to be used at participating wellness locations throughout the month.

Visit

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whistler.com /wellness and get the most out of your personal wellness retreat in Whistler this June.
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nature and rejuvenate the mind, body and soul in Whistler this June

LOCAL GETAWAYS SOINTULA

COLLECTIVE GOOD

A seaside town on B.C.’s Malcolm Island reveals great campsites and greater hospitality.

Some camp gear you can do without—string lights, say, or a cornhole set. What you can’t do without, as we grasp while ransacking our packs on a cold evening in a remote island campsite, is a cooking pot.

Our genius idea was to blow northward past the South Coast crowds, taking the ferry from Port McNeill on the northern end of Vancouver Island over to Malcolm Island, where the shoulder season gave us a good shot at securing a chunk of oceanfront campground to ourselves. But no neighbours also means no borrowing, and it’s soon clear that we’ll have to head into town right away if we want to eat anything warmer than a granola bar.

Luckily, town isn’t far away. The busier campsite here is Bere Point, where itchy orcas come to scratch their sides on the just-sloping-enough-to-not-getbeached pebble flats. But we haven’t come for fins, we’ve come for Finns: Sointula, the main village, was

founded as a collective utopia by Finnish free-love idealist Matti Kurikka in 1901, and my half-Finnish husband was looking for some cultural history with our camping getaway. That original utopia collapsed, as utopias do, but the Finnish flavour remains in the road signs, the practical Nordic architecture and the village name itself: sointula means harmony in Finnish.

So, with a little “oh look, that’s Finnish”-style walking about in mind, we’d booked at Harmony Shores Campground, which is an easy four-kilometre hike to town along the waterfront. As we finish setting up our tent, a cool ocean mist is pulling back into crisp bands of low-lying cloud—tempting us to stick around. But, hot food calls. Someone, somewhere out there, is going to have cookware for sale.

With the North Island weather shifting from fair to moody and back again, we follow the Kaleva Road seaside art trail into Sointula, spotting folksy

86 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
The Wild and the Weird Natural wonders Big Lake (above) and the Sointula waterfront (left) coexist peacefully with the bizarre and beautiful Kaleva Road seaside art trail (below).
SCANDINAVE.COM

installations like 20-foot macrame, scrap-metal sculptures and tongue-in-cheek (probably?) alien warnings. Since long before any Finns arrived, the island has been a Kwakwaka’wakw foraging site; we forage too, feasting on the huckleberries and blackberries that grow along the path.

In town, we score that hot meal: Coho Joe Cafe serves up fresh-baked cinnamon buns and hearty bennies inside a homey heritage house (the B&B suite upstairs is one of a handful of options outside of the Oceanfront Hotel for non-tent-types). We’re soon thankful for the fuel; the general store—B.C.’s oldest to operate as a co-operative—has a casserole dish and muffin tins, but no pots. The clerk directs us to a hardware store a further 20 minutes past town; the added walk scores plenty of Scandi heritage in the form of ramshackle boathouses featuring names like Tarkanen and Sjöberg, but still, we do not score a pot.

We trudge back empty-handed, spotting too late the visitors’ kiosk with its collection of adorable (and free) loaner bikes. But all is not lost: a helpful local

suggests the thrift store, which is hidden behind the community museum. It’s closed, but a knock on the window produces an angel of a volunteer, who lets us in and digs up one precious pot, for which we happily offer ten times the $1 sticker price.

Hot dinner secured, we grab some Finnish pulla bread from the Upper Crust bakery and hike back to camp to comb the kelp-strewn beach and toast a gobsmacking sunset. We’d been warned that ferryloads of one-time residents are on their way back for a blow-out weekend wedding, so the next morning we opt to spend the day exploring the island’s quiet back roads—and are rewarded with a jewel of a swimming hole, complete with lily pads. Big Lake, which is actually a very small lake, can also be accessed from town via the six-kilometre Mateoja heritage farmstead trail.

Back in Sointula, there’s just enough time to poke inside the Wild L’il Gift Shop, where mother-and-daughter team Anissa and Freyja Reed sell locally made candles, art and sea-glass jewellery. As the ferry nears the dock, we end our visit with a co-operative action of our own, releasing our pot back into the donation pile outside the thrift shop so it can once again restore harmony to some future forgetful camper.

88 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
That’s So Sointula
LOCAL GETAWAYS SOINTULA
Kaleva Road (left) is mystical in the morning, and the community museum (above) is the ideal cloudy-day destination.

@visitpenticton | #visitpenticton #fuelfreepenticton

Slow down, see more, discover hidden gems and travel responsibly. Enjoy fuel freedom as you explore Penticton by foot, pedal or paddle.

Learn more at www.visitpenticton.com/fuel-free

It All Starts in Nanaimo

Take a trip on your trip (opening May Long Weekend)

Just minutes from downtown Nanaimo’s Maffeo Sutton Park and opening May Long weekend, Saysutshun is an excellent idea for your staycation itinerary. Take a short boat ride—a ferry runs seasonally from Maffeo Sutton Park to the island—and enjoy the perfect day trip, or spend the night and camp on a beautiful oceanside site. The island offers walking trails, an interpretive centre, a café, and more! Consider booking a walking tour to learn more about the island’s important connections to the Snuneymuxw First Nation.

Meaningful gifts galore

With so much to see and do in and around Nanaimo, an Island staycation can take the stress out of trip planning and help save some money on longdistance travel expenses. Read on for some great ideas on how to have the ultimate getaway in Nanaimo.

Plenty of flavour

You can’t visit Nanaimo without indulging in its world-famous sweet treat. Follow the Nanaimo Bar Trail to any combination of over 35 varieties. Choose from classic, specialty, vegan, ice-cream and even cotton candy Nanaimo bar renditions!

Suppose you want a satisfying meal to level out the sugar high, Nanaimo offers plenty of fantastic restaurant options. Take a charming foot ferry to The Dinghy Dock Pub (open Friday to Sunday) and admire striking views of Mount Benson

while you dine. For beer enthusiasts, Nanaimo boasts plenty of craft beverages to quench your thirst.

The ins on the best of the outdoors There’s an incredible selection of outdoor wonders to explore in the Nanaimo region. Some local favourites include the tidal lagoon at Pipers Park, sandstone rock formations at Malaspina Galleries, and hiking to Ammonite Falls. Another option to experience nature is to go on a whale-watching tour. Passengers often witness orcas, humpback whales, and other marine life, such as seals and sea lions!

The waters around Nanaimo are also excellent for fishing and crabbing. Local guides know where to find the big ones. If kayaking is more your style, the protected waters of the area’s lakes and harbours are full of secret coves and inlets to explore.

If you’re looking for a souvenir, downtown Nanaimo’s Old City Quarter features plenty of quaint and unique shops to find amazing one-of-a-kind gifts in a charming historic setting. For another special shopping experience, consider driving the Cedar Yellow Point Artisan Trail loop. It’s a great option to take in beautiful sights while visiting farms and supporting local artists by purchasing their creations. When it comes to the ultimate staycation, Nanaimo offers plenty to experience—all in a beautiful and pristine natural setting.

Start planning your Nanaimo getaway at tourismnanaimo.com/StartHere

SPONSORED REPORT Created by the Canada Wide Media advertising department in partnership with NANAIMO HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION
Plan your trip or memorable staycation with great eats, snap-worthy adventures, or some locally inspired retail therapy in beautiful Nanaimo
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#itallstartshere

It all starts here

Nanaimo is the perfect starting place for your Vancouver Island getaway — with biking, kayaking, whale watching, shopping, ziplining and more. The moment you take the bikes off the roof rack, get onto the water, take that first sip of wine, or open the door to your hotel room: now you’re really on vacation.

tourismnanaimo.com/StartHere @TourismNanaimo

SOMETHING IN THE WATER

The Sunshine Coast is named for bright days, but the nights here bring a living kind of light.

Iwonder if the six strangers in this Sprinter van can tell I got engaged three days ago.

My parents and sister know, as does my partner—who, of course, engineered the whole thing. But the proposal (and acceptance) happened right before I was scheduled to hop in this van and board a ferry to the Sunshine Coast. So, I had a choice: either copy-and-paste a mass text to my friends and family— expedient, if impersonal and anticlimactic—or wait until I return to deliver the news in person and indulge in all the screams, gasps and happy tears.

I opted to wait. So now I’m on a work trip with a half-dozen other people who work in media, in what I’m quickly learning is one of the most romantic places in the world.

And it’s not just the rose-coloured glasses that are metaphorically sitting on my freshly engaged face. After ferrying over to Gibsons and then navigating the winding coast road for about an hour and a half, we arrive at the luxury cabin-style West Coast Wilderness Lodge in Egmont (and a truly breathtaking view). Standing on my patio just before sunset, I’m surrounded by a gold glow that radiates off the evergreen-covered mountains over Skookumchuck Narrows. In a few hours, the whirlpools and whitewater of the

nearby Sechelt Rapids will be at their peak. For now, the water is calm and the serenity is unreal.

The hotel restaurant, called Inlets, is dotted along its windowed perimeter with couples eager to catch these last few moments of sunlight. Our haphazard crew of seven stands out, both in our number and in the obvious fact that we’re far less in love with each other than the rest of the clientele. I learn that all of the other journalists in my group are married, and after a single glass of sparkling wine (bolstered by my natural inability to shut up), I tell them that I just got engaged. “Less than 72 hours ago,” I specify over a beautiful heirloom tomato salad. “Yes, I’m very happy,” I confirm while extracting a juicy mussel from its shell. “No, we have not set a date yet,” I answer, trying not to choke on the crunchy yams topping my delicate lingcod. (I make a note for the future to refrain from replying to insane questions while eating delicious food.)

I’m trying to manage my expectations for this evening. It’s hard, because the activity on tonight’s schedule is the one I’ve been most looking forward to—the thing that made me completely comfortable with abandoning my partner as he was barely getting up off his one knee—and that is bioluminescent kayaking.

92 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
You Glow Girl
LOCAL GETAWAYS SUNSHINE COAST
Metta Eco-Experience’s “Into the Night” tour features bioluminescent kayaking, where curious paddlers can see the plankton sparkle in the dark. Into the Night photo: Metta Eco Photography; kayak illustration: Noun Project/Anthony Ledoux

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The kayaking is part of Metta Eco-Experience’s “Into the Night” tour. The company is run by Greg and Meriel Rushton—another couple. There’s gotta be something in the water here... and in fact, there is: bioluminescence. Apparently, the narrows are full of tiny organisms that emit light, creating a gentle glow that, when night falls, becomes visible to the naked eye.

I’ll soon see for myself. While the last bits of daylight fade from the sky, our tour group of about 15 (us and three—you guessed it—couples) stands in a circle near the push-off point as Greg and Meriel give us a dry-land paddling lesson. We’re each also given a red light to clip on to our lifejackets.

As we hoist our two-seater kayaks from a small storage tent and carry them toward the shore, Greg points out that each one has two sticks carefully woven into the bungee straps. “I tell kids these are magic wands,” he announces. I use the cover of darkness to roll my eyes. Once we’re all bobbing around near the shore, you can really only see the dots of red from our lights—I can barely make out the shape of the person sitting directly in front of me in the kayak.

Luckily, that blurry shape is as needlessly competitive as I am: we’re right behind Greg, our paddles slicing through the black water as we leave the others trailing behind. Meriel is at the back, acting as caboose for our bizarre floating train. In the distance, we can see the bright lights of a ferry coming into the narrows as it returns from Saltery Bay, south of Powell River. It’s not close enough to cause us alarm, but it still looks freakishly massive from our dinky little kayaks.

“If we paddled in front of that ferry, could it see our lights?” I call to Greg. “Nope!” he replies jubilantly.

As we get farther and farther from shore, the seascape actually becomes brighter. My eyes have fully adjusted now, and a full moon is causing all the little islets to cast shadows on the ocean. Greg stops in one of those shadows, and we wait with him as the other, slower (not that that matters) kayakers catch up to us.

I’m absentmindedly resting my paddle in the water when I first notice it. It looks like little white sparks are dancing off the blade. I plunge my whole hand in and swirl it around: sure enough, tiny flecks of light appear and disappear with my movement. I whip out the “magic wand”— a.k.a., the stick—and drag it through the water. The flickering lights trail softly behind.

As a person who grew up in B.C., I often feel like I’ve been sadly

desensitized to the beauty of West Coast nature. But this is one of the most awesome things I’ve ever seen. The bioluminescence isn’t bright or spectacular, like fireworks; it’s subtle and enchanting in a way that requires you to stop what you are doing and simply stare.

For the rest of the journey, I am an effectively useless paddler, taking advantage of my backseat position to do little else but wave my magic wand (which has very quickly become a prized possession). My deep focus over one side of the kayak forces my partner to lean in the opposite direction and counteract the weight. I try to take photos and videos, and end up with nothing but pitchblack rectangles and some crisp audio of myself breathing.

It’s dark, it’s cold, and I’m with a bunch of people I barely know, but this is the most engaged (pun very intended) that I’ve ever felt with nature. The bioluminescence is quiet and miraculous and undeniably romantic. It’s a romance that I’m perfectly happy to indulge in by myself, though I’ll certainly drag my partner through an insufferable slideshow of pointless photos later.

I’m in no rush to go home, but now I have two life-altering experiences to share with my family and friends once I get there.

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Dinner with a View The West Coast Wilderness Lodge’s communal patio (below) is the go-to spot for picturesque sunbathing. WCWL food: Stuart Costello; West Coast Wilderness Lodge deck: Blrrd Creativ; kayaking: Metta Eco Photography
LOCAL GETAWAYS SUNSHINE COAST
It’s just like a fairytale. But if the animals start talking to you, be concerned.
It’s a different world up here. Learn why.

OKANAGAN HAD A FARM

With a moo-moo here and a pop-pop there (that’s the sound of uncorking a wine bottle), the Okanagan is home to some of B.C.’s best farmland. One of our editors took a summer trip and lined up a few very special spots: here are three amazing places worth visiting on your next OK getaway.

A Farm for the Foodie

Klippers Organic Acres

725 Mackenzie Rd., Cawston, B.C. klippersorganics.com

The realities of farm life can’t be as romantic as the storybooks would have us believe, right? But Klippers Organic Acres feels like a true countryside paradise—so much so that it has me seriously daydreaming about abandoning my high-maintenance city life to frolic among tractors and chickens.

The family-owned farm in the Similkameen Valley has grown from five to 60 acres since the Klippensteins first founded it in 2001. Kevin Klippenstein takes us on a walking tour, stopping every once in a while to pull a beet from the ground or pluck a Padrón pepper from a nearby plant (most are mild, but about one in every ten is very spicy, he tells us).

Those same Padrón peppers are served at Row Fourteen, the onsite restaurant (they take farm-to-table extremely literally). They are done simply, fire-roasted with canola oil and flaky salt, and I “lose” the pepper roulette: the very first one I taste burns in my mouth and nose. But it’s also delicious, as is everything else: warm bread with a soft smoked butter, beets with whey cream and plums, cider sausage atop rich romesco sauce. All produce is picked with intention from just outside the restaurant’s sweeping windows, and that mindfulness comes through in the ultra-fresh menu.

Klippers Organic Acres

The Feast

Let the chef pick your meal with the multi-course harvest lunch menu ($50 per person) at Row Fourteen.

The

A Farm for the Family

Covert Farms Family Estate

300 Covert Pl., Oliver, B.C. covertfarms.ca

Covert Farms Family Estate appeals to the young and the young-at-heart: try not to smile with childlike joy as you bounce around the property in the back of a little red pickup truck. The yellow jumping pillow (think trampoline, but marginally safer) begs to be skipped across. There’s waddling ducks, talkative sheep and giant bristly pigs—but, to me, the cows are the highlight.

Unlike those farms that keep livestock in feedlots, Covert integrates their animals with their plants: planned grazing keeps the crops under control and manure helps the plants grow. So, right in the middle of the fruits and veggies, there are fuzzy cows. Emo-looking caramel-coloured cows with sassy bangs, giant cream-toned cows walking with elegant purpose and brown-andwhite splotchy cows

my

96 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
that look deep into Shop Grab a bottle of Untangled Craft Cider’s black plum basil cider ($19) from the in-restaurant gift shop. The Photo Op Just down the road from Row Fourteen is the Klippers Marketplace and Café—snap a pic basking in the hammock chairs while you refresh with housemade peach-leaf ice cream. Garlic Shed
LOCAL GETAWAYS OKANAGAN FARMS
Among the rows of veggies at Klippers is a tiny building filled with garlic (yes, it smells weirdly delicious inside). Alyssa Hirose

soul from behind enviable long eyelashes. Covert Farms reminds kids and adults alike where their food comes from: I eat wine grapes from the vine (a few have been lost to an oenology-curious bear), brush dirt from cabbages and carefully avoid bees to pick fresh strawberries.

Here, you can indulge in nostalgic fun (sorry to the kids I double-bounced on the jumping pillow) and also celebrate like a grown-up (cheers to wine tasting on a sundrenched patio). And it’s a good place to seriously consider becoming a vegan.

A Farm for the Fruit-Lover

The Grist Mill and Gardens

2691 Upper Bench Rd., Keremeos, B.C. oldgristmill.ca

Okay, so the Grist Mill and Gardens isn’t actually a farm: it’s a heritage site with a restaurant, campground and gift shop. Don’t expect rows of carefully plotted crops or livestock wandering about. But the apple orchard has the energy, charm and history that I love about farms. It would be impossible to leave it off this list.

elderly visitor swore she remembered one of the mystery apples from her childhood.

The water wheel-powered mill that the site is named after is still turning, and stepping inside among the platforms and pulleys and grinders is awesome: the space is a love letter to preservation. A tiny museum with bits and bobs about the mill’s history is just a few steps away. And everywhere, there are flowers—the fresh florals have only the fragrance of sweet apples to compete with, and the air here is easy breathing

Covert Farms

The Feast

Book a private campfire cookout ($38 for adults, $15 for youth under 18) and roast your own Two Rivers hot dogs—plus s’mores, wine and juice for the kiddos.

The Shop

For a wine that channels Okanagan strawberries and cherries, go with the Covert Farms 2022 Rosé ($22).

The Photo Op Fuzzy cows

Need we say more?

The Grist Mill apple orchard has over 20 different species of heritage apples: it’s a beautiful, eclectic mix of trees. Extraordinarily friendly manager Chris Mathieson speaks with evident passion for the different varietals, even though many of them are a mystery: record keeping for the 146-year-old site has been (understandably) inconsistent, and many of the apples are unknown. Mathieson asks all visitors to help in the team’s pursuit to identify the apples—once, he tells us, an

The Grist Mill and Gardens

The Feast Chow down on a fresh scone in the tearoom or grab a sandwich from the kitchen.

The Shop

The housemade apricot barbeque sauce ($12) is a winning souvenir.

The Photo Op

The water wheel powering the mill is super IG-worthy, as are all of the funky kinds of apples.

VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 97

SOUTHERN RE-EXPOSURE

The joys of rediscovering Bellingham, Washington, after a pandemic’s time away.

She’s just visiting,” says the bartender to an outdoorsy-looking couple seated at the counter as she tucks a lock of pink hair behind her ear. “Where should she go?”

Technically speaking, I’ve been just-visiting Bellingham regularly for nearly 25 years now, but I still love to ask this question to locals: where should I go this weekend? It’s my first time here at Honey Moon , for example—the discovery of this delightful alley-side meadery came thanks to a hot tip from another local at another place. And how did I manage to go more than two decades without a sip of their heavenly, floral Fleurs Amères mead? Or without spending time under their fuchsia chandelier and twinkling fairy lights?

I can be excused for not discovering this place over the last three years, of course. But our closest city over the border holds a special place in my heart as the ideal near-far getaway—close enough to be an easy hour-plus drive to get here, and far enough to feel like I’ve left Vancouver’s busyness behind. The streets are wide and Sunday drive-y; the people have that ultimate PNW look about them—like they’ve just returned from an epic waterfall hike and have plans to open a craft brewery with a couple of college friends within the year.

On this trip—my first post-COVID return—I like the new lens that my absence has cast over the town. In the beforetimes, I had a routine: wake early, head for the border, breakfast in downtown Bellingham (where I once had the thrill of a server asking me for a local recommendation), wander a bookstore or three, hit up Trader Joe’s and Target, make it home by late afternoon.

But on this visit, I’m making up for lost time: I’m on a girls’ getaway to spend days, not just hours, here (not that we won’t come back with a carload from TJ’s, too). We’ve booked a room at the new Hotel Leo, the historic building in downtown Bellingham that renovated, revamped and re-opened back in late 2019, its roomy modern suites great for a chill-out between shopping and dining. For a moment, we’re tempted to camp out in the hotel’s lower-level theatre, which gives you the option of casting to the big screen from your phone or choosing a DVD from a shelf stocked with fave titles like Slumdog Millionaire and Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels. But we’re looking for an experience of the IRL kind, and so instead we start our wander at my longtime favourite: Old Town Cafe, where a seat in the warm and woodsy booths gives you a view to a new streetside patio, and where the omelettes are a truly beautiful thing. It’s the hearty Lumberjane for me—perfectly prepared local organic eggs overflowing with bacon, cheddar, caramelized onions, mushrooms and kale, while my friend guns the when-in-America veggie-friendly heartstopper of biscuits and gravy: a rich mushroom and tahini gravy draped over homemade biscuits and beautifully poached eggs.

Great Explorations

Bellingham’s wide streets were made for wandering (clockwise from top left): the alley-side Honey Moon; puppies at Are You My Human?; cool cats at Neko; tours at Chuckanut Bay Distillery; tacos at Black Sheep; breakfasts at Old Town Cafe; and great sleeps at Hotel Leo.

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Honey Moon Hotel Leo Are You My Human Old Town Cafe LOCAL GETAWAYS BELLINGHAM

Fuelled to stroll, we wander up to get lost for a bit in the stacks of Henderson’s, the used bookstore that almost rivals Portland’s Powell’s for breadth of titles on hand (I’m stoked to nab a copy of The Storied Life of AJ Fikry). It’s just around the corner from the Whatcom Museum—and while the weather is a little too early-spring glorious to take the full tour of its collections, the Museum Store is irresistible: local artisans’ pottery (I’m still coveting one of Makiko Ichiura’s ceramic sheep) sits alongside 1,000-piece puzzles and adorable handmade puppets.

We wander back to the Leo with plans to drive the narrow waterfront stretch of road that joins downtown Bellingham with Fairhaven, the waterfront community that’s also designated as a National Historic District. And we will—but first, we’re stopped in our tracks by a pile of puppies. It turns out that Bellingham is now home to a puppy rescue, which saves canine momsto-be from high-kill shelters in Texas and California. For about $15, you too can immerse yourself in a dozen or more of Are You My Human’s furry babies for an hour or so. (And, in a case of gilding the lily, Bellingham also has a cat café: Neko is licensed, too, so you can enjoy a bottle of local brewery Kulshan’s Bastard Kat while you desperately wait for Luna or DJ Silly Goose to show you some affection—which they may or may not do, because cat.)

Our pet vibes satiated, we hop over to Fairhaven, where Village Books proves there’s no such thing as too much time in a bookstore, and then doubles

down on that dare with the top-floor Evolve Chocolates and Café, where we enjoy a view over the harbour and a sweet afternoon snack of an iced ginger cookie and a scone packed with Medjool dates, orange and cardamom. But Fairhaven is made for wandering, so we reluctantly leave our ocean view for street level again to explore shops and back alleys and the waterfront itself. The quarter-mile Taylor Dock boardwalk links Fairhaven with Boulevard Park, leading you right out and over the open water—with views back to the peaks that line the Canadian border on a clear day.

Patting ourselves on the back for our step counts and strolls, we decide there’s time to sneak in a quick taco at Black Sheep back in Bellingham before dinner—where we’re rewarded with well-balanced mango margaritas and pork belly tacos topped with mango-pineapple chutney, tamarind crema and cilantro.

Calories, of course, have no place on a getaway weekend, and so we gamely head posttaco for our real dinner and a tour of the city’s newest distillery and restaurant, Chuckanut Bay Distillery ’s Penny Farthing Co-owner Ethan Lynette spent the last few years renovating the old JC Penny building—spot the original “boys department” signs still framed on the lower level—and is on the way to opening Bellingham’s only rooftop bar this coming summer. Once we’re experts on the distilling process (let’s just say: it’s incredibly complicated, and so cheers to the pros) we dive into a loaded mezze platter of green mint hummus, baba ganoush and citrus-brined feta alongside sweet baby radishes, fresh dates, grilled zucchini and more. And, of course, an excellent Old Fashioned crafted from Chuckanut Bay’s own housemade bourbon and demerara syrup.

Our night wraps with more wanders, that sweet stop at Honey Moon—and, of course, a few recommendations from those bar patrons for the next day (an easy waterfall hike that we’ll line up for our next visit; they raise a glass to us for our taco discovery and Penny Farthing dinner) and a well-earned drop into bed at the Leo at the end of the night. And dreams of future visits—and our own recommendations to offer—in the months to come.

VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 99
Neko Chuckanut Bay Distillery
Honey Moon: Annette Bagley; shopping bag illustration: Noun Project/Sugeng Riyanto
Black Sheep

Greener Pastures

COAL COUNTRY DIAMOND

Occasionally, when golfing, you come across a hazard that is so physically challenging that your pulse quickens and your brow gets damp just from thinking about what might happen next. The 12th hole at the new, and stunning, Crowsnest Pass Golf Club in Blairmore, Alberta, features one such hazard—though, in fairness, context is everything.

Of course, there is much more than golfing drama to be had along the Crowsnest Pass, with its towering peaks and mercury rivers. Historic small towns like Coleman and Blairmore hunker in the valley near abandoned coal mines that speak to an industrial past. The topography of the pass combined with the longish winters, however, has also meant that golf has never been big in the area. The old Crowsnest Pass Golf Club first opened in the 1920s, but it had been rebuilt and rerouted so many times to accommodate coal mining that it was never much of a draw.

In 1997, a new 18-hole course opened, and then, roughly a decade ago, the club completed a land swap with a mining company seeking easier access to the highway. In return, the club received a large and

undulating piece of property up the mountainside. The respected golf course architect Gary Browning got to work in 2015, and the new course and clubhouse opened in the summer of 2020. And it might just be the best new course to open in Alberta in decades.

We’d played the first 11 holes of that recently reimagined course in something of a state of awe of its magisterial beauty. When we got to the 12th tee, we found a short par 3 of about 140 yards played over a shrub-choked chasm to a small and well-bunkered green. We also found a course marshal standing on the tee. We made a joke about having a gallery to watch our shots.

“That’s not why I’m here,” he said. “There’s a mama grizzly and her cub just off in the bush over to the right of the green. I’ve been watching and I haven’t seen them. They probably moved on.”

Should we wait?

“Oh no,” he said in that blithe manner that outdoorsy people seem able to adopt in the face of someone else’s imminent mauling. “You’re good to go. I’ll watch from here and then come up to the green with you.”

A quick inspection of his golf cart revealed

no weapon other than a large thermos of coffee. My three partners found the putting surface. I proceeded to halfshank my shot into, of course, the bush and shrub right of the green. At the green, I told my friends I was just going to have a quick scout for my ball. None offered to help. The marshal stood nervously by, no longer smiling.

It turned out my ball had settled partway down the side of a foliage-heavy embankment a few yards short of the deeper part of the gorge. What’s the worst that can happen?

I asked myself. A possible fall into a valley, at the bottom of which a grizzly mama and cub had been spotted within the last half hour. Okay, that was bad. On the other hand, it was a brandnew Titleist Pro V1 down there. Six dollars! It wasn’t much of a dilemma.

I shimmied down, gap wedge in hand, the green 20 feet above me. No bears. I planted my feet and swung and before I’d even completed my backswing I was hotfooting it back up top, certain I’d heard branches snapping close behind me. Screaming and whooping broke out overhead. I clambered up to find my friends shaking their heads in disbelief and the course marshal laughing. My ball had rocketed up on to the green, clattered into the pin and dropped into the hole.

Later, over a beer, our server asked if we’d seen the bears on the 12th hole.

“No,” I said. “But it was an easy birdie.”

100 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023
Photos: Courtesy Crowsnest Pass Golf Club; golf tee illustration: Noun Project/Viktor Turchyn
Alberta’s Crowsnest Pass Golf Club features hazards of more than just the sand-trap variety.
LOCAL GETAWAYS CROWSNEST PASS GOLFING
With its majestic views and well-designed course, Crowsnest Pass may be the best new course to open in Alberta in decades.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 14, 2023 11:30am to 3:00pm FAIRMONT HOTEL VANCOUVER 900 West Georgia Street, Vancouver, BC https://www.bcbusiness.ca/The-2023-BCBusiness-Top-100 PLATINUM SPONSORS PRESENTED BY PANELLISTS CHRIS O’RILEY President & CEO BC Hydro CHRISTINE BERGERON President & CEO Vancity ANNE NASER President & CEO WorkSafeBC AMAR S DOMAN Owner BC Lions Ian Gillespie FOUNDER, WESTBANK KEYNOTE SPEAKER Join us for a discussion with some of the province’s top business leaders HONOURING PETER LEGGE O.B.C., LL.D. (HON.), D.Tech., CSP, CPAE, HoF Former Chairman & CEO of Canada Wide Media Limited, publisher of BCBusiness.

Culture

Nightcap

Space Jam

Don’t let the pumpkin fool you: this fresh cocktail from Dylan Riches of Published on Main, our 2023 Bartender of the Year (page 62), is perfect for toasting the longer days of the season. The celestial, orange-toned elixir expertly combines that rich, earthy pumpkin with fiery tequila and pisco, evoking memories of starry summer nights. A touch of saffron and cayenne syrup tantalizes as it warms, akin to the cozy glow of a beach bonfire. Cheers to full moons and fuller glasses.

HARVEST MOON

SERVES 1

½ oz Don Julio Blanco tequila

½ oz Barsol Quebranta pisco

½ oz lemon juice

½ oz saffon syrup (see recipe, right)

1 oz pumpkin puree

½ oz sparkling wine (to top)

METHOD

Combine all ingredients except for the sparkling wine into a shaker tin with ice. Shake vigorously. Double strain into a cognac or tulip glass. Top with sparkling wine.

DID YOU KNOW?

Depending on who you ask, Barsol pisco may be regarded as the original Peruvian pisco. This unique and singlevarietal drink is made using only the Quebranta grape, which is one of the eight official grape varieties that make it genuine Peruvian pisco.

SAFFRON SYRUP

600 g white sugar

600 ml water

½ tsp vanilla extract

600 mg cayenne powder

500 mg saffon

METHOD

Add all ingredients to a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring regularly. Remove from heat and let sit for 20 minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth or fine strainer. Keep refrigerated for up to two weeks. Makes about 2 cups.

102 VANMAG.COM MAY /JUNE 2023 SARAH ANNAND

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COAL COUNTRY DIAMOND

3min
pages 100-103

SOUTHERN RE-EXPOSURE

4min
pages 98-100

OKANAGAN HAD A FARM

3min
pages 96-97

Wide Open Spaces

2min
pages 93-95

SOMETHING IN THE WATER

1min
page 92

It All Starts in Nanaimo

1min
page 90

COLLECTIVE GOOD

3min
pages 86-89

with

1min
pages 85-86

A taste of Tuscany in the heart of the Okanagan

2min
pages 83-84

ON ISLAND TIME

1min
page 82

Sushi Jin: Entrust yourself to Premium Omakase with Chef Jin

1min
pages 79-80

Premier Crew

1min
pages 66-78

Lifetime Achievement

3min
pages 64-65

The Judges

2min
pages 62-63

BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

1min
page 62

Best B.C. Wine List

1min
page 61

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR

1min
page 61

Best Steakhouse

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a Best Thai

1min
pages 58-60

Best Korean

1min
pages 56-57

Best Chain

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Best African & Caribbean

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Best Casual

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Best Italian

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Best Latin American

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Best French a

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Contemporary

1min
pages 46-47

The Latest in Cutting-Edge Kitchen Appliances Midland Appliance talks Signature Kitchen Suite and Canada’s first fully flush built-in French door refrigerator

1min
page 45

Best Indian

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Best Upscale

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Best Middle Eastern

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Best New

1min
pages 38-39

Chef of the Year

1min
pages 35-37

Restaurant of the Year

1min
page 33

Culture City Informer

1min
pages 28-31

Culture City Informer Why Are Rooftop Bars So Rare in Vancouver?

1min
pages 26-27

Culture On the Rise

1min
page 24

THE SOCIAL CALENDAR

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Culture About Town

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Culture The Ticket

1min
pages 20-21

Culture The Ticket

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pages 18-19

What makes so much better

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Culture The Disruptor A Mother of an Idea

4min
pages 14-15

Culture Hot Take

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A Return, and a Welcome

2min
pages 8-10
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