CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 05 CARPENTER PANTS

2018CLL003

05 – CARPENTER PANTS FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

– PRESS RELEASE –

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

05 – CARPENTER PANTS FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY History of the Carpenter pant “At first, only workmen wore carpenter pants”.

The origins of the carpenter pants are strongly linked with the Bib Overall. Most earlier carpenter pants were overalls amended, with out the front bib.

Carpenter pants were usually made from denim or duck canvas.

Canvas being the material in more durable styles, and colors may vary; white and beige are other popular colors. They had a loose cut, to allow for a wide range of motion and were most likely worn over existing pants. Some earlier variations had pockets with openings so you could access the under garment.

Carpenter pants were characterized by their wide variety of pockets, tabs and loops.

Brush Loop or Hammer Loop One such loop is known as the brush loop, or hammer loop.

The loop is an inch wide fabric strip, which runs between the side seam and back pocket of carpenter pants. Although it was added to provide a place to store a paintbrush or hammer, the loop’s design turned out to be more decorative than practical. A hammer or brush can be rested there temporarily, provided the person wearing the pants does not move much.

Carpenter jeans are often worn by construction workers and carpenters, hence the name, to carry their tools so that their hands can be kept free yet the tools are still easily accessible.

Other characteristic features include extra pockets, sometimes located on the outer thighs, and extra rivets for durability.

Another feature is wider belt loops, to accommodate a wider, thicker belt. Because of the weight of the tools carried in the pockets and loops, a tightly cinched, wide ‘work belt’ must be worn by most people.

Generally, you will find more angled details on Carpenter jeans like angled front pockets vs curved scoop pockets found in jeans.

Most carpenter jeans are made for function, not fashion.

Carpenter jeans were quite popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s hip hop scene especially those by the Tommy Hilfiger brand who placed their trademark logo on the hammer loop.

Later variances in Carpenter jeans added reinforced doubleknee construction with openings for knee pads.

REFERENCES https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carpenter_jeans

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID

Clean construction pocket bearer Angled front pockets Branded 'Carved in Blue®' washer and burr rivets Tailored belts loops (which go into top of waistband)

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label Chain stitch waistband construction Period correct ecru stitching One piece continuous fly construction thin to large construction

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons Printed internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction on legs

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY RAW / RIGID

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Tool pocket

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams on back rise and yoke seam

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets