2018CLL003
07 – SELVEDGE JEANS FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262
Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION
– PRESS RELEASE –
Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019
H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS
This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics. The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design. The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®. “This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.
Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton. “This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”. The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes. The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness. “Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid. For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com
2018CLL003
07 – SELVEDGE JEANS FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 History of the Selvedge Jean The birth of the jean, is a well-documented story which started with a tailor who had an idea to strengthen his clients garments at their pocket edges. These clients being miners who went down silver mines. Many don’t realise early miners were just wearing basic tailored trousers and pants down the silver mines in California in the 1870s period. Most of these garments were not even that heavy in weight compared to modern workwear of today. 8 or 10 oz was the maximum weight that was produced, a shirting weight we would consider today. Its for this very reason not many early examples remain. During this period of time many tailors and dry good shops popped up in this towns servicing these miners, selling everything from equipment and clothing for the miners. Early workwear has its roots in tailoring, as it was tailors who made garments for the miners. Jacob Davis was a tailor who came up with the idea of riveting overalls at their stress points and history was made when Levi Strauss helped pay for the patent. May 20th, 1873 is the patent date for the rivet, but riveted jeans where in circulation many months or even a year before the patent came into effect. The 1st jeans were made of natural duck canvas, not indigo twilled fabric in this period. The shape of the back pocket of the 1873 pant is the shape of the spade tool the miners worked with, and the small coin pocket was called a Match Pocket, for the miners matches. This jean is heavily tailored, with a shaped curved waistband, mini SPI’s (stitch per inches) up to 16 and even 18 in some places. Modern garments are now made with 6 or 9 as standard. This jean had only one back pocket, the yoke doesn’t exist yet, but a cinch buckle helped with the fit. The knee area has extra fabric on the knee section for extra protection for the miner. It is important to know that these garments were overalls, and were not meant to be made to fit well, they were meant to be worn loose. Most believe the match pocket was most likely a Jacob Davis invention.
There is a sense of pure refinement of this early style from the shape of the fly, to areas where the seams are run and felled with a single needle method – with one row of stitching on the presentation side, and two rows of stitching on the underside. This jean was made in a time before mass production, before even a chainstitch stitch was even considered. Chainstitch is mostly used on areas where the seams need to flex, you normally find it on back rise stitches, waistbands and side seams. This early garment would also been made with 100% cotton thread making it more vulnerable to coming apart and wearing away more faster. Levis had exclusivity of riveting jeans for a short period of time in history – so other workwear and denim brands had to came up with other ingenious methods to strengthen their own garments in points of stress. This early period in denim history is far more fascinating, as so many brands were being creative on their construction methods before everything was standardized after WW1.
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Vintage 501 repro acquired in Bangkok during an inspiration trip.
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 WASHED
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons
Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label
Peak-a-boo selvedge coin pocket
Selvedge construction pocket bearer Branded 'Carved in Blue®' washer and burr rivets Tailored belts loops (which go into bottom waistband)
Chain stitch waistband construction
One piece selvedge continuous fly construction Printed pocket bag with hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.
Modern slim fit inspiration
Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction inseam
Leather backed buttons + rivets
Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch
Premium 3/16” selvedge side seam stitching with chainstitch
2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID
Selvedge cinch buckle
Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch
Curved back pocket with concealed rivets Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction backrise and yoke Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets