CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR - 09 APRON

2018CLL003

09 – APRON

FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

– PRESS RELEASE –

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019

H A R DW E A R A COLL ABORATIVE PROJECT BE TWEEN LENZING x J E A N O LO GIA ® x E N DRIME ® Made at B L ACK H O RSE L A N E AT E LIE RS

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made -up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes.

The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

2018CLL003

09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE

FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112 History of the Workwear Apron Long white ruffled aprons were common in 1920s. The bib apron as we know it today took roots in the 1930s and 1940s but it is the half apron of the 1950s that has started a vintage and retro apron revival.

Aprons are worn by both men and Dry Goods stores up until the 1950’s to protect clothing during the working day. Now, in the 21st century, the apron has re-emerged as a style icon in workwear and as a fashion accessory both in and out of the kitchen.

The transformation of the apron into an icon of femininity would take place mostly in America in the late 1940s. After World War II, following the horrors of war and the scarcity of the Great Depression, the notion of the family seated together around the table was idealized. The apron became a symbol of family values and of an inviting kitchen with enough food for everyone.

Women in their aprons represented the warmth and hospitality of the family, and of an entire nation.

Against all odds, this garment constantly moves and reinvents itself, leaving the past behind. Today, nothing remains of its negative image from being associated with a woman trapped in a domestic role.

The Apron now as connotations of craftsmanship, and handmade products has also helped spur the use of aprons. An interest in handmade and vintage items has led a large segment of society to look back in time and reinterpret old fashion. New–old artisans find a symbol of their identity in the apron, a reflection of their work.

Throughout history, the apron has been, at times, a working class garment used for practical purposes, while at other times it has taken on a more noble role, with decorative or even ritualistic use. It has likely existed as long as mankind has worn clothes, and there is evidence of its use in Ancient Crete and Pharaonic Egypt in religious rites.

Most classic workwear aprons started popping up in 1950s – in all shapes and sizes – with pocket shapes which suited the user.

It’s a garment which will always be there, and will carry on to morph to suit the user.

During the Middle Ages in Europe, aprons were primarily for men, and indicative of the financial and professional status of its wearer. For example, English barbers wore chequered aprons to make their trade known to potential customers.

The apron was used as a guild emblem while also serving practical purposes, so that cobblers wore black aprons to protect themselves from tar, and stonemasons wore white aprons that protected them from the white dust of the stone. Different colours were assumed by different trades: stewards adopted green aprons, while blue was used by weavers, spinners and gardeners, etc.

REFERENCES https://qooqer.com/en/apron-history/?v=79cba1185463 https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/vintage-aprons/

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection: Vintage Japanese Repro Apron acquired in Singapore during an inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112 RAW / RIGID The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112 WASHED The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112 RAW / RIGID

Depression era fit

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons Leather backed buttons + rivets

Period correct ecru stitching

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration square woven label Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G

Period correct mis-stitching on pockets Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets