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Lake Constance
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Introduction | Bodensee Magazine Special
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Photo: Markus Leser
Imprint ISBN 978-3-944741-55-0 Bodensee Magazine Special English Edition “Lake Constance – Churches, Monasteries and the Council of Constance” is a publication by Labhard Medien GmbH Max-Stromeyer-Straße 116 D-78467 Constance Phone: +49 (0) 7531 9071-0 verlag@labhard.de www.labhard.de Managing Director Steven Rückert srueckert@labhard.de
Authors Unless otherwise stated, the text was provided by the respective project partners. Layout Brigitte Otto büro 46 Project Management Stephan Bickmann sbickmann@labhard.de Editorial Office Johanna Lambach jlambach@labhard.de Holger Braumann hbraumann@labhard.de
Cartography map solutions © GmbH, Karlsruhe Printed by Druckerei Raisch GmbH + Co. KG Auchtertstraße 14 D-72770 Reutlingen Cover photo Birnau pilgrimage church Achim Mende, Überlingen Photos Unless otherwise stated, the photos were provided by the respective project partners.
Translation Claire Gordon-Kühl Distribution Victoria Resch vresch@labhard.de
We would like to thank all project partners. Pages by Interreg project partners are funded by the European Regional Development Fund.
© Labhard Medien, 2018
Editorial
Content
The entire Lake Constance region, across all of its national borders, is distinguished by a vast number of churches and monasteries. These were traditionally centres of power, not only because of their wealth, but above all their spiritual values. Thanks to the knowledge they amassed in their libraries and their diverse, outstanding architecture, the Lake Constance region became the starting point for a cultural and political development of truly historic and ultimately European significance. Monks, nuns, their monasteries and convents have shaped the Lake Constance region since the early Middle Ages. Their economy and way of life not only created a unique cultural landscape, but were also a driving force of social innovation.
Introduction ....................................................... 2 Monasteries, churches and the Council of Constance
St.Gallen ............................................................ 4 Abbey District of St.Gallen – A UNESCO World Cultural Heritage
REGIO Konstanz-Bodensee-Hegau .......................... Western Lake Constance ..............................................10 Reichenau – An island with a unique history ..........................12 Praying on your feet ...................................................14 Constance ..........................................................16 City of churches, monasteries and the Council of Constance
The tourist offices of the Lake Constance region have launched an Interreg project in close cooperation with the Catholic dioceses and the Protestant regional churches of Baden-Württemberg. "Churches, Monasteries and the Council of Constance" is funded by the EU. The aim of this project is to make the region's cultural and architectural heritage accessible to a broader public. There are many reasons for visiting the churches, monasteries and chapels around Lake Constance. Follow in the footsteps of these monks, nuns and pilgrims and enjoy a very special experience!
Thurgau ............................................................22
The Labhard Medien team Stephan Bickmann
Routes to Churches and Monasteries..................... 44
Kartause (Charterhouse) Ittingen / Schaudepot St. Katharinental
Upper-Swabian Baroque Route ........................... 28 BAROQUE heaven
Salem............................................................... 34 Salem Cistercian Monastery
Rest and Relaxation for the Soul .......................... 38 Monasteries and other hospitable retreats
Exploring Baroque heaven/ The major monastic orders
Photo: St.Gallen-Bodensee Tourism
Abbey District of St.Gallen
A UNESCO World Cultural Heritage St.Gallen Abbey was a focal point of western science, a centre of culture and a site of major interest. Many of the works produced here, including manuscripts and deeds, survived the abolition of the abbey in 1805 and remain in existence to this day. The former abbey church and the magnificent abbey library are some of the finest examples of Rococo in Europe. The Abbey District of St.Gallen has been recognized as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage since 1983.
A unique cultural heritage The abbey square with its exceptional architectural ensemble comprising the former abbey church – now the cathedral – and the abbey library have lost none of their appeal, even 200 years after the dissolution of the abbey. The abbey church is one of the last great Baroque edifices in the Lake Constance region. The magnificent Baroque library hall is among the finest in the German-speaking world. The Abbey Library of St. Gallen houses a unique collection of manuscripts, many of which were written in the scriptorium of the abbey and have survived the course of history. St.Gallen continues to cultivate this bibliophilic legacy as a modern city of books.
CATHEDRAL OF ST. GALLUS AND OTHMAR (FORMER ABBEY CHURCH) The abbey church was completed in 1767. Johann Kaspar Bagnato, a renowned master builder, was significantly involved in its planning, while the building work was supervised by Johann Michael Beer. The church, which was commissioned by abbots Cölestin Gugger of Staudach and Beda Angehrn, became a cathedral (episcopal church) following the dissolution of the abbey in 1824. The impressive facade with its twin spires rising up at the eastern, narrow end of the church is a landmark of the diocese, city and canton of St.Gallen. Inside, the church is a three-nave construction with columns and a central dome (rotunda). Exquisite stucco, frescoed vaults, altars and the choir stalls are among the outstanding features of the interior. The harmonious balance of different art forms was the work of Christian Wentzinger, a sculptor and painter. The stucco by Johann Georg and Matthias Gigl separates the lighter-coloured stone walls from the ceiling frescoes in a darker tone. Josef Wannenmacher, who painted the ceiling frescoes, created his greatest work of art in St.Gallen. The choir stalls in the chancel are three-dimensional masterpieces crafted under the leadership of sculptor Josef Anton Feuchtmayer. ABBEY COURTYARD The courtyard of St.Gallen Abbey is the only example in Switzerland of Baroque imperial architecture based on the principles of alignment and monumentality and combined with a great church built in the same style. However, the complex was never completed as the monastery was dissolved before the architects' ambitious aspirations could be fulfilled. The western wing of the courtyard stretching eastwards from the southern spire of the cathedral was the “Alte Pfalz” (Old Palace). At the eastern end of the courtyard is the “Neue Pfalz” (New Palace) built in 1767-1769 by master builder Johann Ferdinand Beer for Abbot Beda Angehrn. This was the abbot’s residence up to 1803, and now houses government offices of the Canton of St.Gallen.
Eremus et Abbas The history of the monastery dates back to Gallus, an itinerant monk who came to the Steinach Valley in 612 as a hermit (eremus) and preacher. He soon gathered scholars around him who formed a religious community after his death (on 16 October in around 640). Othmar, a priest, founded a monastery on the site of Gallus’s tomb that later followed the Rule of St. Benedict. Othmar, the provost (abbas) of this monastery, built the first abbey and provided alms for the poor from the surrounding countryside. Gallus and Othmar together embody the principles of Benedictine life: prayer and (manual and social) work.
Cathedral of St. Gallus and Othmar
St.Gallen | Bodensee Magazine Special
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Constance
City of churches, monasteries and the Council of Constance
Photo: Achim Mende
Photos: Dagmar Schwelle
Constance’s churches and monasteries
Visible and hidden gems
The former diocese of Constance existed for more than 1200 years. Established in around 600 A.D., it was the largest diocese in Germany in the Middle Ages and stretched from Stuttgart as far as the St. Gotthard pass and from Freiburg as far as Kempten. The Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418 constituted a highlight in this long history. During this time, three popes simultaneously claimed their right to the Chair of St. Peter. Secular and religious leaders came together at the Council of Constance with the aim of reestablishing the unity of the the church. This event transformed the town into a theological, political and cultural hub. The diocese was finally dissolved in 1821 when its borders were redrawn in the wake of political changes in the post-Napoleonic era. At its zenith, Constance had around a dozen monasteries as well as several churches of various sizes. Even today, it is possible to discover real gems, even in less well-known or easy-to-miss corners of the city.
CATHEDRAL OF OUR DEAR LADY The former bishop’s church is the largest church in Constance. It is made almost exclusively of sandstone from a quarry near the town of Rorschach, which is now part of Switzerland. The building is essentially a Romanesque columned basilica that was consecrated in 1089. During the Council of Constance, the cathedral was at the centre of events: This is where participants at the Council conferred in so-called “sessiones generales” and made important decisions. It is also where Jan Hus was sentenced to death as a heretic and Martin V was eventually crowned the new pope. The cathedral is open to the public every day between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. WESTWORK VIEWING PLATFORM Constance from above: Anyone who has the time and the physical endurance should climb the 193 steps to the platform at the top of the tower, some 52 metres above the ground. The views from here looking down on the town, the lake and the Swiss canton of Thurgau are breathtaking. It is surprising how many roof terraces there are in the old part of town! The tower can be ascended between mid-March and mid-October from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. on week days and from 12.30 to 6 p.m. on Sundays and public holidays. LOWER ST. MARGARET CHAPEL This chapel next to the southern transept of the cathedral is now open to the public. Don’t be afraid to push open the door! The chapel was built in the 1420s as a burial chapel for Bishop Otto III of Hachberg. It contains the elaborate tomb featuring the recumbent figure of Bishop Otto framed by outstanding murals, showing a Marian apparition above a kind of balcony balustrade. Don’t miss it, but also make sure you do not disturb anyone who is praying! CRYPT The oldest part of the cathedral is the so-called “Winkelgangkrypta”, a set of underground passages dating back to the end of the 9th century. The crypt was enlarged when the cathedral acquired the relics of the late Roman martyr Pelagius in the early 10th century and Bishop Conrad of Constance was canonized in 1123. You can walk to the end of the crypt and peek down the long passageway that was originally accessible from the southern side aisle to allow more people to enter the crypt.
Hohes Haus with St. Stephen's Church behind it (top left) The present-day Council Building, a former warehouse at the harbour where the papal election was held in 1417 (bottom left)
ST. SYLVESTER CHAPEL This beautiful chapel that is almost completely covered with murals is situated in the cloister behind a door with a pointed arch. The paintings show the Passion of Christ beginning with Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem and ending with the outpouring of the Holy Spirit (Whitsun). They date back to 1472, but had to be restored after only one hundred years. Recent research has unearthed more about the origins of the paintings: They were commissioned by the rich Humpis family from Ravensburg. Again, don't be put off by closed doors and take a look inside.
ST. MAURICE ROTUNDA The foundations of the St. Maurice Rotunda date back to the 10th century. It can also be accessed via the cloister. Many parts of the church were newly built and renovated in the centuries following its construction and the original floor level was raised by around 1.65 metres in around 1300. The chapel houses a cenotaph that holds a shrine representing the coffin of Jesus Christ. The chapel is reminiscent of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, which Bishop Conrad visited several times. Take note of the statue of the Apostle St. James on top of the tomb: He is holding several staffs and pilgrims’ bags ready for pilgrims who set of from here to Einsiedeln or even Santiago de Compostela.
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH The former monastery church of the Hermits of Augustine largely dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries and was renovated in the Baroque style in the 18th century. The remarkable murals in the nave were painted during the time of the Council of Constance and show not only religious saints, but also King Sigismund (the first figure in the north-west of the church), the self-proclaimed patron of the Council of Constance, who stayed in the monastery from 1417 onwards and commissioned three painters from Constance to do the artwork. One hundred and thirty years after its construction, the church was extended in 1399, and the ground level raised by around 1.6 metres for structural reasons. If you turn right after entering the church, you can see the original foundation below you. Holy Trinity Church is located in Sigismundstrasse 17 and is open every day from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Constance | Bodensee Magazine Special 19
Photos: Dagmar Schwelle
Photo: Kerstin Bittner
Photo: Achim Mende
Imperia, a statue by artist Peter Lenk, turns on its pedestal in front of the Council Building at the entrance to Constance harbour and has become one of the town's most significant landmarks. Honoré de Balzac elevated the Roman courtesan to the status of a literary figure at the Council of Constance, making her the clandestine ruler of the Council – or as Balzac put it: “she hath stripped many a mitre and spoiled many a crozier.” She holds two naked men in her hands, one wearing a crown and the other a tiara. They are said to represent Sigismund and Martin V. But according to artist Peter Lenk, they are two jesters who have wrongly made a claim to power. (top left)
MONASTERIES IN CONSTANCE Of the approximately one dozen monasteries that existed in Constance at the time, only “Zoffingen” Dominican convent in the Niederburg district remains today. Most convents were secularised in the late 18th or 19th century, including the former Dominican monastery on the island at the gateway to the town. The Dominicans established an extensive monastery complex here as early as 1236. During the time of the Council of Constance, the monastery on the island was used as a prison for Jan Hus, a reformer from Prague. After the last monks left the island in 1785, the entire complex was acquired by the Macaire family from Geneva and used as a textile printing and dyeing factory. One famous son of this family was Count Ferdinand Zeppelin, who built the eponymous airships. He was born on the island in 1838. In 1874 the building was converted into a hotel that still exists today. The newly founded University of Konstanz also held its first lectures here in 1966. After the former monastery had been converted into a hotel, the historical painter Carl Häberlin painted the cloister with murals depicting significant events on the island, starting with the prehistoric pile dwellings and ending with the opening of the hotel. Eberhard von Zeppelin, who owned the hotel and commissioned the paintings, decided what scenes Häberlin should paint. But in some scenes, he was taken in by “fake news”. For example, St. Pelagius was not murdered on the island in Constance, but in Istria, if he was murdered at all. There are other fictitious events, but the scenes from the Council of Constance are all truthful. By the way, do not hestitate to enter the hotel. If there is no event going on in the cloister, you can walk around and take in the medieval architecture and the historic illustrations from the 19th century. THE COUNCIL OF CONSTANCE The Council of Constance was one of the most important occurrences in the region’s history. To commemorate this highly significant medieval congress, a colourful collage of events took place between 2014 and 2018, organized by various institutions. But even after the anniversary, the history of the Council can still be experienced in Constance. The election of Martin V, the only valid papal election north of the Alps to this day, marked the end of the schism of the church and was the major achievement of the Council of Constance. This more or less harmonious gathering of thousands of religious and secular leaders from all over Europe over a period of four years set a precedent in the largest town on Lake Constance. Even 600 years later, traces from the days of the Council can be discovered on a walk through the beautiful historic town, whether you explore the wonders of the Council of Constance on your own, with the help of a digital or analogue map or the wide range of literature on the Council, or accompanied by a competent tour guide. In the Hus-Haus museum you can learn all about Jan Hus, while the Rosgartenmuseum offers one very special attraction: The Constance edition of the Richtental Chronical. Just a few steps further on is Holy Trinity Church, where you can meet the man who brought the Council to Constance: King Sigismund commissioned local artists to paint his image on the walls of the church. More information about the Council of Constance, its history and the people who played a role in it, as well as literature and events can be found at www.konstanzer-konzil.de
Guided tours The largest town on Lake Constance prides itself on its vibrant blend of culture, history and nature. The lake that has inspired artists and writers for centuries, the historic town centre, romantic Niederburg – the oldest part of town – with its narrow alleys, galleries and boutiques, as well as the wonderful Alpine panorama attract countless visitors and new residents every year. Guests and locals can embark on a fascinating journey back in time on one of the many guided tours through town that take place all year round and offer a wealth of information on local history and culture. One highlight of any tour is the Council of Constance, the major event that took place 600 years ago between 1414 and 1418 and has left its mark in various places around town. The Council Building, the figure of “Imperia” at the harbour, the Hus Stone and other attractions recall this international medieval sensation. Guided tours on various topics provide more information on the town's history, fascinating anecdotes, real insider tips and all you need to know about Constance ... For dates, prices and more information: www.konstanz-tourismus.de/erleben-entdecken/ kulturgeschichte/stadtfuehrungen.html Marketing und Tourismus Konstanz GmbH (Marketing and Tourist Office) Bahnhofplatz 43 / Bahnhof D-78462 Constance Tel. +49 (0) 7531 1330-30 kontakt@konstanz-info.com www.constance-lake-constance.com www.konstanzer-konzil.de
Interior of Constance Cathedral with the crossing and the choirstalls in the background (far left) View of the cathedral from Seestrasse with the former Dominican monastery in front (centre right) Plaque on the "Hus Haus" that now houses a museum (bottom right)
Constance | Bodensee Magazine Special 21
Photo: Achim Mende
BAROQUE
Heaven Baroque in Upper Swabia is a unique phenomenon! In the course of some 150 years between the end of the Thirty Years War and the rise of Napoleon, between the Renaissance and Classicism, a world and an art form emerged in Upper Swabia that still shapes the region today and astounds visitors again and again.
ALONG THE UPPER-SWABIAN BAROQUE ROUTE Visitors to the region between Wiblingen and St.Gallen (CH) can travel along the Upper-Swabian Baroque Route and explore six different theme worlds: They can admire BAROQUE, experience BAROQUE, relax with BAROQUE, listen to BAROQUE, enjoy BAROQUE and even shudder at BAROQUE. The many impressively preserved stately homes, monasteries and churches with magnificent interiors embellished with paintings and sculptures, stucco and craftsmanship are the most visible monuments from this period. But there is more: Musical and literary works were also created in the service of the Catholic faith that not only celebrated the Creation but also explained the meaning and order of the world and life to the people. Baroque in Upper Swabia is a work of art in its own right! But it is not merely a historic relic devoid of life – it lives on today, not only in the landscape and its formation, in the architecture, art and music, but above all in the positive outlook of the people who live here. Their love of life, their enjoyment of good food and drink, of music, celebrations and games are undoubtedly rooted in the Baroque period. For the people of Upper Swabia who have grown up with Baroque, it is “as much a part of our inner nature as pretzels and Fasnacht”, says Thomas Moritz Müller, an artist and journalist. Seen in this light, Baroque, especially in Upper Swabia, is not simply an academic art form that has lent its name to an epoch, but also a life philosophy that gives people a sense of identity and allows them to enjoy life. And it is contagious! You don’t necessarily have to be born in this share this attitude. A drive along the Upper-Swabian Baroque Route, a visit to one of the castles and monasteries or one of the fantastic churches in the towns and villages, an organ concert or a celebration, maybe combined with a good beer or a glass of wonderful wine from Lake Constance, is an ideal way to awaken your inner “Upper Swabian”. Upper-Swabian Baroque is above all an invitation – an invitation to enjoy art in its many forms and to relax and feel blessed by life!
Further Information about the UPPER-SWABIAN BAROQUE ROUTE: Oberschwaben Tourismus GmbH (Upper-Swabian Tourist Office) Neues Kloster 1 D-88427 Bad Schussenried Tel. +49 (0) 7583 92638-0 www.heavenly-baroque.com #wearebaroque
Ulf Hailer
Steinhausen pilgrimage church
Upper-Swabian Baroque Route | Bodensee Magazine Special 29
Photo: Frank MĂźller, Bibliothekssaal im Kloster Wiblingen
Discover art treasures
of all shapes and sizes Magnificent residences and lavish churches are typical of the ostentatious architecture with opulent forms and bright colours that is associated with the BAROQUE era. Many churches, monasteries and castles in BAROQUE Heaven are immediately recognizable to visitors as being Baroque. Anyone who travels along the Upper-Swabian Baroque Route with their eyes open can also discover less obvious treasures.
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