Champa Meuanglao: May / June 2018 by Champa Meuanglao

DR. SOMPHONE DOUANGDARA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES

Sabaidee Dear Passengers,

ສະບາຍດີບັນດາທ່ານຜູ້ໂດຍສານທີ່ຮັກແພງ,

Welcome aboard, and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

ຍິນດີຕ້ອນຮັບບັນດາທ່ານສູ່ຖ້ຽວບິນຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ ແລະ ຂໍສະແດງ

On the occasion of International Labor Day, 1 May, I'd like to congratulate all employees and workers in every sector who contribute to production and services and accomplish many great things. I would also like to wish our passengers good health and success in their working endeavors. The months of May and June will see many festivals held in Laos, including the Rocket Festival, which is held to call forth the rains, bring fertility to crops, and generate new life. International Children's Day is held in June, alongside Arbor Day, in which Lao Airlines takes part to promote greenery across our nation. On behalf of the board and all employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank all our passengers for choosing to fly with us, and for instilling the airline with confidence in its international standards, ensuring our continued expansion into the future. Lao Airlines remains at your service, no matter if you are travelling near or far. We hope to serve you again soon, and wish you a pleasant flight.

Dr. Somphone Douangdara President & CEO of Lao Airlines

ຄວາມຂອບໃຈເປັນຢ່າງຍິ່ງທີ່ທ່ານເລືອກໃຊ້ບໍລິການຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ. ເນື່ອງໃນໂອກາດວັນກຳມະກອນສາກົນ ວັນທີ 1 ພຶດສະພານີ້, ການບິນລາວຂໍສະແດງ

ຄວາມຍ້ອງຍໍຊົມເຊີຍພະນັກງານທຸກທ່ານ ທຸກພາກສ່ວນທີ່ໃດ້ສຸມໃສ່ການປະຕິບັດວຽກ ງານຂອງຕົນເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ວຽກງານການຜະລິດ, ການບໍລິການໃຫ້ປະສົບຜົນສຳເລັດໃນ ແຕ່ລະໄລະ, ພ້ອມດຽວກັນນີ້ຈ�ງຂໍອວຍພອນມາຍັງທຸກທ່ານໃຫ້ມີສຸຂະພາບເຂ�ມແຂງ ແລະ ກ້າວໜ້າໃນໜ້າທີ່ການງານ. ໃນໄລຍະເດືອນພຶດສະພານີ້ປະຊາຊົນລາວໃນ

ທ�ວທຸກແຂວງ ກໍມີການຈັດງານບຸນບັ້ງໄ�, ເປັນບຸນປະເພນີ ຕາມຮີດຄອງຂອງຄົນລາວ ຕາມຄວາມເຊື່ອໃນການຂໍໃຫ້ຝົນຕົກ ຮ�ມເ�ັນ ໃຫ້ບັນດາພືດພັນ ແລະ ຕ�ນໄມ້ຕ່າງໆ ໄດ້ຈະເລີນເຕີບໂຕ, ເປັນຊ່ວງໄລຍະແຫ່ງການເກີດໃ�່.

ຕ້ອນຮັບເດືອນມິຖ�ນາກັບ ວັນເດັກນ້ອຍສາກົນ ແລະ ວັນປູກຕ�ນໄມ້ແຫ່ງຊາດ,

ການບິນລາວກໍໄດ້ເປັນສ່ວນໜ�ງໃນການກະຕຸກຊ�ກຍູ້ ນຳພາພະນັກງານການບິນລາວ ສ້າງຂະບວນການໃນການປູກຕ�ນໄມ້ ສ້າງພື້ນທີ່ສີຂຽວໃນບ້ານເຮົາຂະ�າຍເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຢູ່ຕະຫຼອດ.

ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຂໍຕາງໜ້າຄະນະນໍາ ແລະ ພະນັກງານການບິນລາວທຸກໆຄົນ ຂໍຂອບໃຈນໍາ ບັນດາທ່ານທີ່ໃຫ້ຄວາມໄວ້ວາງໃຈເລືອກໃຊ້ບໍລິການຂອງພວກເຮົາ ດ້ວຍປະສົບການ ການບິນທີ່ມີຄຸນນະພາບສູງລະດັບສາກົນ ແລະ ຄວາມມຸ່ງໝັ້ນຂອງການບິນລາວເຮົາ ໃນການສືບຕໍ່ຂະ�າຍຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງ.

ສາຍການບິນລາວພ້ອມບໍລິການທ່ານທຸກເມື່ອ ບໍ່ວ່າທ່ານຈະເດີນທາງໃກ້ ຫຼື ໄກ,

ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຂໍໃຫ້ການບິນລາວເປັນອີກໜ�ງທາງເລືອກເພື່ອອຳນວຍຄວາມສະດວກໃນ ການເດີນທາງຂອງທ່ານໄປເຖິງຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງ ແລະ ພວກເຮົາ�ັງຢ່າງຍິ່ງວ່າ ຈະໄດ້ມີໂອກາດຕ້ອນຮັບບັນດາທ່ານສູ່ຖ້ຽວບິນຂອງພວກເຮົາອີກຄັ້ງ.

ຂໍໃຫ້ທ່ານເດີນທາງໂດຍສະ�ັດດີພາບ.

ຮຽນມາດ້ວຍຄວາມເຄົາລົບ ແລະ ນັບຖືຢ່າງສູງ, ປອ. ສົມພອນ ດວງດາລາ

Hello readers, Welcome to the May-June edition of Champa Meuanglao, which is just bursting at the seams with new travel destinations, ﬂavoursome food stories, and some spectacular local festivals. The rocket festival will be held this May, shooting for the skies and calling down the much-needed rains.

Cover image: Rocket Festival in Vang Vieng Photo taken by Phoonsab Thevongsa

In this edition we head north to Oudomxay and take a look around before settling down at the Muang La Lodge, while further north, adventurous travel writer Mick Shippen explores the sights and delights in the heart of Hanoi.

www.champameuanglao.com

PUBLISHING Managing Editor

We bring you an exclusive interview with fashion entrepreneur Monica Phromsavanh, who tells the story of her humble beginnings and fabulous ﬁnish in New York, and we meet with Danish entrepreneur Jeppe Carlsen, who founded the ﬁrst digital agency in Laos.

Editors

Meanwhile, we invite photographers of all experience levels to take part in our very own My Favorite Place photo competition for the chance to win free ﬂights with Lao Airlines.

Contributing Editor Creative Director Contributing Writers

Happy Reading (and happy snapping!) The Champa Meuanglao publishing team

ADVISORY BOARD Somphone Douangdara President

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

Cameron Darke Duangtavanh Oudomchith Dalaphone Pholsena Jason Rolan Soukthida Sengthavong Jochen Moravek Sally Pryor Mick Shippen Latsamy Phonevilay Vincent Vichit-Vadakan Tara Gujadhur Phoonsab Thevongsa Mick Shippen

Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

ADVERTISING Director of Marketing & Sales

Marketing & Sales Executive

Aditta Kittikhoun aditta.kittikhoun@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55555521 Duangtavanh Oudomchith duangtavanh.oudomchith@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55474555

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED

RDK GROUP

Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2017 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group.

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CONTENTS

MAY / JUNE 2018 FEATURE

30 18

PHOTO COMPETITON

10 12

CITYSCAPE

CLOSE-UP

48 hours in Vang Vieng

Maintaining the Mekong is no small feat

FEATURE

EXPLORE

INSIGHTS

Fashion entrepreneur Monica

In the heart of Hanoi

Why Lao Tobacco invests

Phromsavanh tells her story

in famers

ESCAPE

FLAVOURS

SNAPSHOT

Idyllic Muang La hidden

Jeos of Kualao

The Lao Rocket Festival in

in northern Oudomxay

restaurant

pictures

BUSINESS

PEOPLE

ON THE AIR

Digital Monkey solves a one

Lanten â&#x20AC;&#x201C;the indigo Yao of Laos

Airline news, timetables

banana problem

and contact details

PHOTO COMPETITON

What's

your

favorite

place?

FROM ENTRIES OPEN 1 APRIL – 31 MAY ້ັງແຕ່ວັນທີ ້ ເລ່ ີມສ່ົງຮູບເຂົາມາໄດ້ຕ ຶດສະພາ 1 ເມສາ ຈົນເຖິງ 31 ພ

Send us a photo of your favorite place in Laos and win FREE tickets with Lao Airlines!

ສົ່ງຮູບ ເມືອງລາວຂອງທ່ານ ມາລຸ້ນລາງວັນປີ້ ເຮືອບິນຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວຟຣີ! Champa Meuanglao magazine and Lao Airlines invite photographers of all backgrounds and experience levels to enter their best single images of their favorite place in Laos for a chance to win free flights to Hanoi, Chiang Mai, or Luang Prabang. Winning photographs will be displayed over a two-page spread in upcoming issues of Champa Meuanglao magazine, and an exhibition of winning entries will be held at Kualao Restaurant, Vientiane. SUBMISSION DETAILS 1. Submissions may only include public areas or areas open to the public. Photographic context and subject matter must exhibit landscapes, scenery, viewpoints or tourist sights. 2. Photo submissions must be in JPEG format, at 300dpi, and no larger than 10MB and not less than 3MB. All photos submitted must be in landscape orientation. 3. Competition entry is from April 1st to May 31st 2018. No submissions will be accepted after close of competition entry. 4. Entries must be submitted by online form at www.champameuanglao.com/myfavoriteplace 5. You must include your full name, a passport sized photograph of yourself, and a short caption in English or Lao (maximum 50 words) explaining what the photograph shows and where it was taken, and why it is your favorite place in Laos.

ວາລະສານຈໍາປາເມືອງລາວ ແລະ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວຂໍເຊີນ ຊ່າງຖ່າຍພາບທຸກໆທ່ານ ທັງມືອາຊີບ ແລະ ຊ່າງພາບມືໃໝ່ ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມ ການແຂ່ງຂັນປະກວດຮູບພາບພາຍໃຕ້ຫົວຂໍ້. “ເມືອງລາວຂອງຂ້ອຍ”, ເຊິ່ງເປັ ນສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ທ່ານມັກ ຫຼື ມີຄວາມປະທັບໃຈທີ່ສຸດໃນປະເທດລາວ ເພື່ອລຸ້ນຮັບປີ້ ເຮືອບິນໄປ ຮ່າໂນ້ຍ, ຊຽງໃໝ່ ແລະ ຫຼວງພະບາງ. ຮູບພາບທີ່ສົ່ງເຂົ້າມາຕ້ອງແມ່ນ ຮູບທິວທັດ, ທັດສະນິຍະພາບ, ຈຸດຊົມວິວ ແລະ ສະຖານທີ່ທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນປະເທດລາວ. ຮູບພາບຂອງຜູ້ຊະນະຈະໄດ້ຖືກຕີພິມລົງວາລະສານຈໍາເມືອງລາວ, ວາລະສານເທິງເຮືອບິນຂອງການບິນລາວ ໃນຂະໜາດ 2 ໜ້າຄວບໃນ ສະບັບທີ່ຈະມາເຖິງນີ້, ແລະ ກໍຍັງຈະມີການຈັດນິທັດສະການຮູບພາບ ຂອງຜູ້ຊະນະທີ່ຮ້ານອາຫານ ຄົວລາວ ອີກດ້ວຍ.

ລາຍລະອຽດການສົ່ງຮູບເຂົ້າປະກວດ 1. ສະຖານທີ່ໃນພາບທີ່ສົ່ງເຂົ້າປະກວດຕ້ອງແມ່ນສະຖານທີ່ ສາທາລະນະ ຫຼື ສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ເປີ ດໃຫ້ປະຊາຊົນທົ່ວໄປເຂົ້າຊົມໄດ້. 2. ຮູບພາບທີ່ສົ່ງເຂົ້າປະກວດຕ້ອງແມ່ນຮູບພາບຮູບແບບ JPEG, 300dpi, ຂະໜາດຮູບພາບບໍ່ສູງກວ່າ 10MB ແລະ ບໍ່ຕໍ່າກວ່າ 3MB. ຮູບທີ່ສົ່ງເຂົ້າປະກວດຕ້ອງແມ່ນພາບທາງນອນເທົ່ານັ້ນ (Landscape). 3. ເລີ່ມຕັ້ງແຕ່ວັນທີ 1 ເມສາ ຈົນເຖິງ 31 ພຶດສະພາ 2018. ຮູບທີ່ບໍ່ໄດ້ສົ່ງເຂົ້າມາໃນເວລາດັ່ງກ່າວ ຈະບໍ່ໄດ້ຮັບການພິຈາລະນາ. 4. ຜູ້ເຂົ້າແຂ່ງຂັນສາມາດສົ່ງຮູບເຂົ້າມາທີ່ www.champameuanglao.com/myfavoriteplace 5. ສິ່ງທີ່ຕ້ອງຄັດຕິດມາພ້ອມກັບຮູບແມ່ນ ຊື່ເຕັມ, ຮູບຂອງທ່ານເອງໃນ ຂະໜາດ 4x6cm, ແລະ ບົດຄວາມສັ້ນໃນພາສາອັງກິດ ຫຼື ພາສາລາວ ກໍໄດ້ (ບໍ່ເກີນ 50 ຄໍາ) ອະທິບາຍວ່າຮູບພາບດັ່ງກ່າວແມ່ນຖ່າຍຢູ່ ສະຖານທີ່ໃດ, ເປັ ນຫຍັງສະຖານທີ່ໃນພາບຈຶ່ງເປັ ນເມືອງລາວຂອງເຈົ້າ, ເປັ ນສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ທ່ານຮູ້ສຶກມັກ ແລະ ປະທັບໃຈ.

The My Favorite Place photo competition is held under the authorization of Lao Airlines and RDK Group. ການປະກວດຮູບພາບ “ເມືອງລາວຂອງຂ້ອຍ“ ແມ່ນຈັດຂຶ້ນພາຍໃຕ້ການອະນຸຍາດຂອງ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ ແລະ ບໍລິສັດ ອາດີກຣຸບ ຈໍາກັດຜູ້ດຽວ

CITYSCAPE

vang vieng Street Food

Baguette sandwiches – Vang Vieng’s most ubiquitous street food – are served all over town, but the vendors outside of Roung Nakhon Vang Vieng Palace offer an incredible variety of delicious options, as well as fruit shakes. They are excellent to take along for any adventures into the surrounding countryside. Other innovations include Beerlao Burgers and more!

Happy Mango Thai Cuisine

If upscale dining exists in Vang Vieng, this is as close as it gets. A mango and sticky rice shop on the street serves pedestrians, while inside all of your Thai favorites are available. Tom yum and Thai curries are highly recommended.

Pizza Luka

Set in the garden of a local house, Pizza Luka serves up delicious pizzas from their outdoor oven. From the bar, you can watch the master as he creates your dinner. Local ingredients, like goat cheese, combine excellently with imported sausages to create ﬂavors uniquely Vang Vieng.

Earth This artistic riverside bar is made of recycled and repurposed materials. Beautiful views and live music keep people coming in, while delicious burgers, beers, and cocktails keep them staying.

Garyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Irish Bar A lively establishment serving up Irish comfort foods and burgers. Major sporting events are also televised here, and live music is played most evenings drawing locals and tourists alike. Local and imported beers and whiskeys are available to keep the fun going into the night.

The Other Side

For a more local experience, cross the bamboo bridge to the other side where many tents and huts are set up on the riverside. Dip your feet in the water as you enjoy Lao favorites like grilled ďŹ sh, papaya salad, and delicious cold Beerlao. MAY / JUNE 2018

CITYSCAPE

Pha Nam Xay Viewpoint

A favorite of shutterbugs and instagrammers, a climb up to the top of Pha Nam Xay will reward you with sweeping panoramas of rice ﬁelds and limestone karsts in the area. The hike is steep and is best avoided in the heat of the day.

Blue Lagoon and Pou Kham Cave

What is more iconic than crystal blue water with a rope swing and a chill garden setting? The nearby cave is also a bonus for those wanting escape from the tropical sun and home to a mythical golden crab. If seasonal crowds are not to your liking, there are two similar spots in the surrounding area.

Tubing and Kayaking

For years, tubing was the main draw in Vang Vieng. But now it’s a quieter experience than years past, as the number of riverside bars has decreased. It is still a lovely ﬂoat (or paddle) down the Song river through the breathtaking scenery that Vang Vieng is rightly famous for.

Riverside Boutique Resort

This high-end boutique resort is located at the riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge just next to the main bridge. The restaurant is excellent and drinks can be served at the poolside gazing directly at the unlikely limestones. Pinch yourself to check that you are not dreaming. riversidevangvieng.com

Amari Vang Vieng

A newcomer to the hotel scene, Amari offers an international standard like its sister properties in Thailand. Riverside rooms have astonishing views of the mountains that can even be viewed from the bed or the bathroom. You might even forget the room has a television! amari.com/vang-vieng

Inthira Vang Vieng

Inthira recently rebuilt their hotel on this riverside spot. The stylish modern concrete exterior offers a break from the usual hotel style in this area. Rooms are well equipped and the inďŹ nity pool is a great place to cool off in the middle of the day. inthirahotels.com/vangvieng

Text by Jason Rolan photographs by Jason Rolan & Phoonsab Thevongsa MAY / JUNE 2018

Artwork Fine Crafts Essential Oils Botanicals Skin Care

Vat Inpeng Street For Taxi: Vien-ane, Lao PDR Tel. 021-223178 info@ar-sanslao.com

Natural Products handmade in Lao PDR Products on display atTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Shop Lai Gallery / facebook/LesArtisansLao / info@artisanslao.com

CLOSE-UP

River

wonders OF

The Mekong may be one of the region’s great tourist attractions, but maintaining it is no small feat BY SALLY PRYOR

W Photos: courtesy of MRC

The Mekong River remains an important food source while serving as a natural border demarcation and enhancing regional connectivity.

atching the sun set over the banks of the Mekong has to be one of the great draw-cards of visiting Laos. That these banks are relatively undeveloped, in Laos at least, to some is one of its greatest assets. The Mekong may be one of the world’s great rivers, alongside, the Mississippi, the Danube, the Murray-Darling and the Nile. But unlike these, there persists a romantic notion about the “unspoiled” status of the Mekong, due to pervading poverty in most of its host countries. Connecting six countries, it’s the longest river in Southeast Asia, and among the longest and largest drainage basins in the world, home to over 65 million people (not including China), and the world’s second most bio-diverse waterway after the Amazon). MAY / JUNE 2018

CLOSE-UP

“MOST OF ALL, WE TRY TO ENSURE THAT LIVELIHOODS REMAIN INTACT, THAT DEVELOPMENT IMPROVES LIVES AND DOES NOT MAKE PEOPLE WORSE OFF THAN THEY ALREADY ARE.”

But, as Dr. Anoulak Kittikhoun, the Mekong River Commission’s chief strategy and partnership officer, observes, the Mekong is also situated in one of the world’s most geo-strategic regions. This means that development is both inevitable and unstoppable, and all the well-meaning nature-loving tourists in the world can’t beat it back. “You have a lot of poverty in this area, but it's changing,” he says. “If you go down to Can Tho City in South Vietnam, in the Delta, you’ll find a big city with high-rises. Cambodia’s Phnom Penh is well on its way to catching up, and Vientiane, in perhaps 10 years, will have several high rises.” But how to manage these changes? Countries like Laos and Cambodia may be using the Mekong to harness their growth, but it’s organisations like the Mekong River Commission – an intergovernmental body with those two countries as well as Thailand and Vietnam as members, that exist to ensure the river is protected. Anoulak says the MRC has a fundamental tenet – meeting the needs but keeping the balance – that ensures no one loses out if the river is managed correctly. The primary and unique role of the MRC in guiding the river’s future has just been reaffirmed by the Prime Ministers meeting for their 3rd MRC Summit on 5th April 2018 in Siem Reap. Under the slogan of One Mekong, One Spirit, ensuring a balance of development

Above: Dr. Anoulak Kittikhoun speaking at the 3rd MRC summit in Siem Reap Below: the four Prime Ministers of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam and highlevel representatives from China and Myanmar meet at the summit

and protection has to include both people and the natural world. “We have strategies and guidelines to make sure that what each country tries to do to develop or use the river does not compromise its use by others,” he says. “But most of all, we try to ensure that livelihoods remain intact, that development improves lives and does not make people worse off than they already are.” This includes those using the river for subsistence living – fishing, irrigation – as well as large-scale projects like dams. “We monitor water quality, water flows, fisheries, the ecological health of the river,” he says. “For large-scale development projects,

ng meko

CHINA

MYANMAR

LAOS

Luang Prabang

kong

THAILAND

Savannakhet Pakse

CAMBODIA Phnom Penh

VIETNAM Can Tho City

we do a lot of consulting back and forth.” Projects have improved after MRC looked at them. The tourism industry, one of the country’s main sources of income, is a major consideration when it comes to one of the country’s main attractions. “For example, in Siphandon (4000 Islands) in the south, there’s a dam under construction at Don Sahong,” Anoulak says. These nearby Khone falls are visited by thousands of people each year, and the area, just a few kilometres from the Cambodian border, is home to a tiny – and dwindling – population of rare Irrawaddy dolphins. The dam would block the Hou Sahong Channel, a key channel of the Mekong that allows for year-round ﬁsh migrations both up and down the river. “But after our consultation, we have ensured there that there will be mitigation measures and monitoring to address impacts.” Ultimately, while the Mekong will always be a source of wonder and admiration for tourists, a lot of work needs to be done to preserve it and, by extension, the livelihoods of millions. But, says Anoulak, gesturing to the window of his ofﬁce, which overlooks the bustling downtown stretch of river, with Thailand visible on the far bank, the great waterway will always be known for its beauty.

FEATURE

FROM

LAOS TO

NEW

YORK

Fashion entrepreneur Monica Phromsavanh hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forgotten her roots BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT FRIEDMAN & HANS GONZALES

he lives in New York City, runs a milliondollar fashion business and has been the subject of several breathless inspirational stories. And it’s not hard to see why; Monica Phromsavanh’s story is like a Hollywood film. From a refugee camp in a rural town in northern Argentina to midtown Manhattan, hers is an irresistible rags-to-riches tale. Born and raised in a camp in a small community of Lao refugees, Phromsavanh knew poverty and struggle from a young age. Her parents had fled Laos during the Revolutionary War, and chose to settle in the town of Misiones, where they were farmers. After her parents divorced, she dropped out of school at 14, worked in a factory and eventually made her way to the US. There, she began working in fashion retail, steadily making her way through the industry until, in her late 20s, she became an entrepreneur, starting her own online style service. Her company, Modabox, delivers fully coordinated outfits curated by stylists to customers who have provided their fashion preferences via the company’s own algorithm. Today, it’s a business worth millions, with a retail space in fashionable Chelsea. Phromsavanh is adamant that her mission is not yet accomplished, that she will never take her success for granted. She also knows that she got to where she is mainly through the grit and determinations she developed growing up a refugee in Argentina. But there was a time when Phromsavanh felt ashamed of where she had come from, and confused about her own identity. She is dining with friends at a trendy speakeasy in Gramercy Park, New York City, when she steps out to take my call. It’s around 10pm, and as she stands on the pavement, the night crowds swirling audibly around her, she’s about as far away as possible from her childhood. But she has no trouble remembering her confusion when she was growing up, not quite Lao, not quite Latina. “In my early days, when I was teenager, I had an identity crisis and I was embarrassed,” she says. “I was embarrassed that my parents were poor, that I was Lao, that I had been in a refugee camp. But I think as I grew older, and as I became more aware of who I am, I used that as a reminder that

my circumstances have helped me to be where I am today, because if I didn't have that, I think that I wouldn't be so resilient.” She remembers one of her first big media interviews with NBC news, when she brought up her childhood for the first time. “I didn't know how far that story would come,” she says. “And that story started spreading out, and others were interested and I started to get invited to different conferences and share more of the story. But I would certainly say that now I'm extremely proud of my parents’ circumstances. I’ve realised that I became a much bigger person because of them.” She says it wasn’t until three years ago, already in her 30s, that she finally visited Laos for the first time, tracking down her father’s remaining family in Vientiane. Seeing where her family came from was, she says, a revelation. “The dirt, the air, the motorbikes, the mango plants, the papaya plants - I just had this flashback where I was in Argentina and the town where I was actually born,” she says. “[I realised that] my dad chose Argentina as one of the countries to go because he wanted to be a farmer, and where I was born, everything looked like Vientiane.” She also had the chance to meet one of her cousins, the daughter of her father’s sister who died not long after the end of the war. The children were adopted out, and this cousin had ended up working in domestic service. For the first time, Phromsavanh says, she realised that while she had always thought her life had been hard growing up, it hadn’t been as difficult as many others who had stayed in the country after the war. “She had a very different destiny, and I connected with her,” she says. “It was sad and nostalgic, but at the same time I’m very proud of what she had accomplished.” Phromsavanh grew up speaking Spanish at school and Lao at home, in a small community of around 100 families, and didn’t learn English until she moved to America. But after that, through luck and hard work, opportunities opened up to her, in a way they wouldn’t have if she had stayed in Laos. “In Laos, if you don't have the last name or don't belong to certain societies, it's quite difficult, so I think that's what my cousin’s going through

MAY / JUNE 2018

FEATURE

“I WAS EMBARRASSED THAT MY PARENTS WERE POOR, THAT I WAS LAO, THAT I HAD BEEN IN A REFUGEE CAMP. AS I GREW OLDER, I USED THAT AS A REMINDER THAT MY CIRCUMSTANCES HAVE HELPED ME TO BE WHERE I AM TODAY, BECAUSE IF I DIDN'T HAVE THAT, I THINK THAT I WOULDN'T BE SO RESILIENT.”

Photo by Alexandra L Wimberly

because my family happened to be farmers,” she says. “For me, growing up in Argentina, born in the local hospital, taken to a refugee camp and dropping out of school at 14 and having this destiny was very difﬁcult, but I made something out of my life.” Today, Phromsavanh is focused on her high-octane, high-powered New York life, where the work never stops and the possibilities are endless. Although it is hard sometimes to forge an identity in the fashion world – is she Asian? Is she Latin-American? – she now focuses more on the business and technology side of her work. “I've been doing this for long enough that I don't mind anymore. Fashion is glamorous and all that, but I don't look at fashion the

way, I just look at it from the business perspective,” she says. “I focus on the consumer, and our clients, more than what is the happening thing to do right now. I do try to sometimes recognise all the work I have done so far, but at the same time I always say this is just a scratch on the surface,” she says. This evening, as she stands on the pavement in Gramercy Park, her life probably does resemble a movie. But she’s adamant that not all nights are like this. “I work harder than I play, and I'm grateful for having the life that I have now, but that didn't come from overnight success and that didn't come for free,” she says. “I’m only 35, and I just discovered my potential very recently, so I think there's a lot of work to be done.”

“I’M ONLY 35, AND I JUST DISCOVERED MY POTENTIAL VERY RECENTLY, SO I THINK THERE'S A LOT OF WORK TO BE DONE.”

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ຈາກ

ເມືອງລາວ ສູ່ມະຫານະຄອນ

ນິວຢອກ

ໂມນິກາ ພຣົມສະ�ັນ,ຈາກຜູ້ອົບພະຍົບສູ່ນັກ ທຸລະກິດແ�ຊັນລະດັບແນວໜ້າແຫ່ງນິວຢອກ ແປ ແລະ ຮຽບຮຽງໂດຍ: ວາທິດາ ພອນແກ້ວ

ເ

ມື່ອທ່ານໄດ້ອາ່ ນເລື່ອງລາວຂອງໂມນິກາ ພຣົມ ສະ�ນ ັ , ທ່ານຈະມີຄວາມຮູສ ້ ກ ຶ ວ່າເລື່ອງຂອງ ລາວຄ້າຍຄືກັນກັບໜັງຮໍລວ ິ ູດເລື່ອງໜ�ງເລີຍກໍ ວ່າໄດ້. ຈາກເດັກນ້ອຍຄົນລາວໃນຄ້າຍອົບພະ ຍົບນ້ອຍໆທີ່ເມືອງອາເຈັນຕີນາ ໄດ້ພະຍາຍາຝັນຝ່າ ອຸປະສັກຕ່າງໆຈົນກາຍມາເປັນເຈົ້າຂອງກິດຈະການ ຫຼາຍລ້ານໂດລາໃນມະຫານະຄອນນິວຢອກ. ໃນສະໄ�ສົງຄາມຕໍ່ສູປ ້ ດ ົ ປ່ອຍ, ພໍ່ແມ່ຂອງໂມນິກາ ໄດ້ອບ ົ ພະຍົບຈາກລາວມາອາເຈັນຕິນາ, ແລະ ເລືອກທີ່ ຈະລົງຫຼັກປັກຖານຢູ່ທີ່ລັດມິຊິໂອເນສ, ເຊິ່ງຄອບຄົວ ຂອງລາວຫາລ້ຽງຊີບດ້ວຍການເປັນຊາວນາ. ໂມນິກາ ເກີດ, ເຕີບໃຫຍຢ ່ ທ ູ່ ຄ້ ີ່ າຍອົບພະຍົບ ແລະ ອາໄສຢູໃ່ ນຊ�ມ ຊົ ນ ຄົ ນ ລາວໃນຄ້ າ ຍ. ລາວຕ້ ອ ງ ປະ ເຊີ ນ ໜ້ າ ກັ ບ ຄວາມທຸກຍາກ ແລະ ຮູລົ ້ ດຊາດຂອງການດ�ນຮົນຕັ້ງແຕ່ ອາຍຸຍັງນ້ອຍ. ຫຼັງຈາກພໍ່ແມ່ຂອງລາວ�່າຮ້າງກັນ, ລາວໄດ້ອອກຈາກໂຮງຮຽນ ຕອນອາຍຸ 14 ປີ ແລ້ວ ໄປເຮັ ດ ວຽກໃນໂຮງງານ ແລະ ທ້ າ ຍທີ່ ສຸ ດ ລາວກໍ ໄດ້ເດີນທາງໄປອາເມາລິກາ. ລາວໄດ້ເຮັດອາຊີບຂາຍ ເຄື່ ອງແ�ຊ� ນລາຍຍ່ ອ ຍ ເຊິ່ ງເປັ ນ ຈຸ ດ ເລີ່ ມຕ� ນໃນ ການພາລາວເຂົ້າມາໃນວົງການແ�ຊັນ, ຈົນເມື່ອລາວ ອາຍຸໄດ້ 20 ປາຍປີ ລາວຈ�ງໄດ້ເຮັດທຸລະກິດບໍລິການ

ຮູບໂດຍ Grant Friedman

ທາງອອນລາຍຕາມຮູບແບບແນວຄິດຂອງລາວ, ກາຍ ເປັນຜູ້ປະກອບການດ້ານແ�ຊັນຢ່າງເຕັມຕົວ. ບໍລສ ິ ດ ັ ຂອງລາວ, ໂມດາບ�ອກ, ໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານໃນການ ແນະນໍາເສື້ອຜ້າ ແລະ ເປັນຕົວແທນໃນການຊື້ເຄື່ອງ ອອນລາຍໃຫ້ລກ ູ ຄ້າ ໂດຍທີມງານນັກອອກແບບເສື້ອ ຜ້າມືອາຊີບ. ເລີ່ມຕ�ນ, ລູກຄ້າຈະໄດ້ຕອບແບບສອບ ຖາມຄວາມມັກສ່ວນຕົວຂອງລູກຄ້າທາງດ້ານການແຕ່ງ ຕົວ, ມັກແຕ່ງຕົວແບບຄລາດສິກ ຫຼື ຕາມສະໄ�ນິຍມ ົ , ແລະ ຖາມກ່ຽວກັບຂໍ້ມູນກ່ຽວກັບສັດສ່ວນຂອງລູກຄ້າ ເຊ�ນ ສ່ວນສູງ, ນໍ້າໜັກ ແລະ ອື່ນໆ ເພື່ອນໍາມາວິເຄາະ ຮູບແບບການແຕ່ງຕົວທີ່ເ�າະກັບລູກຄ້າທີ່ສຸດ. ປະຈຸບນ ັ , ມັນໄດ້ການເປັນທຸລະກິດທີ່ມີມນ ູ ຄ່າຫຼາຍ ລ້ານໂດລາ ແລະ ລາວກໍໄດ້ເປີດສາຂາຢູເ່ ມືອງເຊວຊີ, ເມືອງແຫ່ງແ�ຊັນແຫ່ງອາເມລິກາອີກດ້ວຍ. ໂມນິກາຄິດ ວ່າທຸລະ ກິດ ຂອງ ລາວຕອນນີ້ຍັງຕ້ອງພັດທະນາຕື່ມ ອີກ ແລະ ລາວກໍຍງັ ບໍ່ຢຸດທີ່ຈະພັດທະນາຕໍ່ໄປເລື້ອຍໆ. ລາວຮູດ ້ ວ ີ າ່ ກວ່າລາວຈະມາເຖິງຈຸດນີ້ໄດ້ ລາວຕ້ອງຜ່ານ ຜ່າ ແລະ ອົດທົນກັບອຸປະສັກຫຼາຍໆຢ່າງທີ່ເຂົ້າມາ ຕັ້ງ ແຕ່ນ້ອຍຮອດໃຫຍ່ຢູ່ໃນຄ້າຍ. ລາວເຄີ ຍ ຮູ້ ສຶ ກ ອາຍກັ ບ ການເປັ ນ ຜູ້ ອົ ບ ພະຍົ ບ ລີ້ໄພ, ກັບບ່ອນທີ່ລາວເຕີບໃຫຍມ ່ າ ແລະ ສັບສົນກ່ຽວກັບ

“ຂ້ອຍອາຍຸພຽງ 35 ປີ, ແລະ ຫາກໍ່ຄ�ນພົບສັກ ກະຍາພາບຂອງຕົນເອງເມື່ອ ບໍ່ດົນມານີ້, ສະນັ້ນ ຂ້ອຍຄິດວ່າ ຍັງມີອີກຫຼາຍສິ່ງ ຫຼາຍຢ່າງທີ່ຂ້ອຍຕ້ອງເຮັດ.”

ຕົວຕົນຂອງລາວ. ລາວຮູສ ້ ກ ຶ ສັບສົນວ່າລາວແມ່ນ ຄົນຊາດໃດກັນແທ້, ຄົນລາວກໍບຄື ໍ່ , ຄົນລາຕິນກະ ບໍ່ແມ່ນ. “ຕອນຂ້ອຍເປັນໄວລຸ້ນ, ຂ້ອຍເຄີຍອາຍກັບ ຊາດກຳເນີດຂອງຂ້ອຍ.ຂ້ອຍອາຍທີ່ພໍ່ແມ່ຂ້ອຍ ເປັ ນ ຄົ ນ ທຸ ກ , ຂ້ ອ ຍອາຍທີ່ ຂ້ ອ ຍເປັ ນ ຄົ ນ ລາວ ທີ່ ຕ້ ອ ງເກີ ດ ແລະ ໃຫຍ່ ຢູ່ ໃ ນຄ້ າ ຍອົ ບ ພະຍົ ບ . ແຕ່ເມື່ອຂ້ອຍໃຫຍຂ ່ ນ, ຶ້ ເມື່ອຂ້ອຍເລີ່ມຫາຕົວຕົນ ຂອງຕົນເອງພົບ ຂ້ອຍໄດ້ໃຊ້ອະດີດເ�ານັ້ ົ່ ນຊ່ວຍ ເຕື ອ ນ ຄວາມ ຊົ ງ ຈໍ າ ສະ ເ�ີ ວ່ າ ຂ້ ອ ຍ ມາ ຢູ່ ໃນ ບ່ອນທີ່ຂ້ອຍຢູໃນທຸ ່ ກມື້ນີ້ໄດ້ແນວໃດ, ເພາະວ່າຖ້າ ບໍ່ມີວັນຄືນແຫ່ງຄວາມລໍາບາກໃນມື້ນັ້ນ, ຂ້ອບຄິດ ວ່າຂ້ອຍຄືຊິບໍ່ແຂງແກ່ງພໍ ແລະ ມີມື້ນີ້ໄດ້.” ລາວຍັງຈື່ໄດ້ເຖີງຄັ້ງທຳອິດທີ່ລາວໄດ້ໃຫ້ສຳ ພາດກັບສື່ຂ່າວຍັກໃຫຍ,່ ສຳນັກຂ່າວ NBC, ເຊິ່ງ ເປັນຄັ້ງທຳອິດທີ່ລາວເວົ້າເຖິງຊີວິດໄວເດັກຂອງ ລາວ. “ຂ້ອຍບໍ່ເຄີຍຄິດເລີຍວ່າການໃຫ້ສຳພາດຄັ້ງ ນັ້ນ ຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ຄົນສົນໃຈເລື່ອງລາວຂອງຂ້ອຍ ຫຼາຍຂະໜາດນີ້. ຫຼງັ ຈາກເລື່ອງລາວຂອງຂ້ອຍໄດ້ ອອກອາກາດໄປ, ຂ້ອຍເລີ່ມຖືກເຊີນໄປແລກປ່ຽນ ເລື່ອງລາວຂອງຂ້ອຍໃນງານສຳມະນາຕ່ າ ງໆ. ແຕ່ຂ້ອຍຈະເວົ້າສະເ�ີວ່າຕອນນີ້ຂ້ອຍມີຄວາມ ພູ ມ ໃຈຫຼ າຍກັ ບ ພໍ່ ແມ່ ຂ ອງຂ້ ອ ຍ ແລະ ເລື່ ອງ ລາວທີ່ຜ່ານມາ. ຂ້ອຍໄດ້ຮູ້ວ່າຂ້ອຍກາຍເປັນຄົນ ທີ່ດີຂນກວ່ ຶ້ າເກົ່າ ແລະ ມາເຖິງຈຸດນີ້ໄດ້ຍອ ້ ນພໍ່ແມ່ ຂອງຂ້ອຍ.” ແລະ ເມື່ອສາມປີກ່ອນ, ໂມນິກາໄດ້ມາຢ້ຽມ ຢາມເມືອງລາວເປັນຄັ້ງທຳອິດ. ລາວໄດ້ໄປຫາ ຄອບຄົວທາງພໍ່ຂອງລາວທີ່ຢູວ ່ ຽງຈັນ, ໄດ້ມາເຫັນ ບ່ອນທີ່ຄອບຄົວຂອງລາວຈາກມາ. “ຂີ້ຝຸ່ນ, ອາກາດ, ລົດຈັກ, ຕ�ນໝາກມ່ວງ,

ຕ� ນໝາກຫຸ່ ງ ລ້ ວ ນ ແລ້ ວ ແຕ່ ເຮັ ດ ໃຫ້ ຂ້ ອ ຍ ຄິ ດ ເຖິງ ພາບ ຄວາມຫຼັງຕອນ ທີ່ ຂ້ອຍ ຢູ່ອາ ເຈັນ ຕິ ນ່າ ເຊິ່ງເປັນບ່ອນທີ່ຂ້ອຍເກີດ.” “[ຂ້ອຍໄດ້ຮູ້ວ່າ] ພໍ່ເລືອກ ອາເຈັນຕິນາ, ເປັນ ບ່ອນທີ່ຄອບຄົວເຮົາຈະຍ້າຍໄປຢູ,ູ່ ເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າ ພໍ່ຢາກເປັນຊາວໄຮ່ຊາວສວນ, ແລະ ບ່ອນຂ້ອຍ ເກີດນັ້ນ ທຸກຢ່າງຄ້າຍຄືກັນກັບ ວຽງຈັນ ໝົດ.” ລາວໄດ້ມີໂອກາດໄດ້ພົບກັບລູກຂອງນ້ອງ ສາວພໍ່ຂອງລາວ ເຊິ່ງເສຍຊີວິດຫຼັງຈາກສົງຄາມ ສ�ນສຸດບໍ່ດົນ. ລູກໆຂອງອາແມ່ນຖືກຮັບໄປລ້ຽງ ແລະ ລູກອ້າຍລູກນ້ອງຂອງລາວຄົນນີ້ແມ່ນເຮັດ ວຽກເປັນແມ່ບ້ານຢູ່. ນີ້ເປັນຄັ້ງທຳອິດທີ່ເຮັດໃຫ້ ໂມນິກາຄິດໄດ້ວ່າ ຊີວິດຂອງລາວທີ່ລາວຄິດວ່າ ລໍາບາກແລ້ວ ຍັງບໍ່ລໍາບາກເທົ່າກັບຫຼາຍໆຄົນທີ່ ຍັງຢູ່ລາວຫຼັງຈາກສ�ນສຸດສົງຄາມ. “ຂ້ອຍແລະລາວມີຊະຕາຊີວດ ິ ທີ່ແຕກຕ່າງກັນ ຫຼາຍ ແຕ່ຂ້ອຍກັບລາວກํํສເຖິ ື່ ງກັນໄດ້.” “ມັນເປັນເລື່ອງທີ່ໜ້າເສົ້າ ແລະ ເຮັດໃຫ້ຂ້ອຍ ຄິດຮອດບ້ານ, ແຕ່ໃນຂະນະດຽວກັນ ຂ້ອຍພູມໃຈ ກັບສິ່ງທີ່ລາວໄດ້ຜ່ານຜ່າມາ.” ໂມນິກາໃຫຍ່ມາໂດຍການເວົ້າສອງພາສາ, ພາສາແອດສະປາຍຢູໂ ່ ຮງຮຽນ ແລະ ພາສາລາວ ຢູເ່ ຮືອນ, ອາໄສໃນຊ�ມຊົນນ້ອຍໆທີ່ມີພຽງ 100 ກວ່າ ຄອບຄົ ວ ແລະ ບໍ່ ເຄີ ຍ ຮຽນພາສາອັ ງ ກິ ດ ເລີ ຍ ຈົນລາວຍ້ ີ່ າຍມາອາເມລິກາ. ແຕ່ຫຼງັ ຈາກນັ້ນ, ດ້ວຍ ຄວາມໂຊກດີ ແລະ ຄວາມດຸໝ�ນຂະ�ັນພຽນ, ລາວຈ�ງໄດ້ຮັບໂອກາດໜ�ງມາ ເຊິ່ງລາວຄິດວ່າ ລາວຈະບໍ່ໄດ້ຮັບໂອກາດດີໆແບບນີ້ ຖ້າລາວອາ ໄສຢູ່ລາວ. ລາວກ່າວວ່າ: “ຢູເ່ ມືອງລາວ, ຖ້າບໍ່ມີນາມສະກຸນ ຫຼື ບໍ່ໄດ້ມາຈາກສັງຄົມໃດໜ�ງທີ່ເປັນທີ່ຮູຈ ້ ກ ັ , ມັນກໍ ຄ່ອນຂ້າງຍາກໃນການໄດ້ມາເຊິ່ງໂອກາດ, ສະນັ້ນ

ຂ້ອຍຈ�ງຄິດວ່າສິ່ງເ�ານັ້ ົ່ ນແ�ະແມ່ນສິ່ງທີ່ພີ່ນ້ອງ ຂອງ ຂ້ ອ ຍ ໄດ້ ປ ະ ເຊີ ນ ເພາະ ຄອບຄົ ວ ຂອງ ຂ້ອຍແມ່ນຄອບຄົວຊາວນາທີ່ຫາເຊົ້າກິນຄຳ່ເທົ່າ ນັ້ນ” “ສໍາລັບ ຂ້ອຍ ແລ້ວ, ການ ທີ່ ໃຫຍ່ ມາ ໃນອາ ເຈັນຕິນ່າ, ເກີດໃນໂຮງໝໍທອ ້ ງຖິ່ນ, ອາໄສໃນຄ້າຍ ອົບພະຍົບ ແລະ ອອກຈາກໂຮງຮຽນຕອນ 14 ປີ ແລະ ມີຊີວິດທີ່ທຸກຍາກລໍາບາກຫຼາຍ, ແຕ່ຂ້ອຍ ໄດ້ເລືອກເຮັດໃນສິ່ງທີ່ແຕກຕ່າງ ເຊິ່ງມັນໄດ້ປ່ຽນ ຊີວິດຂ້ອຍຢ່າງສ�ນເຊີງ.” ທຸກມື້ນີ້, ໂມນິກາມຸງ່ ໝັ້ນໃນການໃຊ້ຊວ ິ ດ ິ ຂອງ ລາວໃຫ້ຄມ ຸ້ ຄ່າ ໃນມະຫານະຄອນນິວຢອກແຫ່ງນີ້, ບ່ອນທີ່ວຽກງານ ຄວາມຄິດຕ່າງໆບໍ່ເຄີຍຢຸດໝຸນ ແລະ ຄວາມເປັນໄປໄດ້ທບໍ່ ີ່ ມີຂດ ີ ຈໍາກັດ. ເຖິງແມ່ນ ວ່າ ບາງຄັ້ງມັນຈະຍາກໃນການທີ່ຈະທຳມາຫາກິນ ໃຫ້ທັນກັບໂລກແ�ຊັນ. ລາວເປັນຄົນອາຊີຫຼືບໍ່? ເປັ ນ ຄົ ນ ອາເມລິ ກ າ–ລາຕິ ນ ຫຼື ບໍ່ ? ມັ ນ ບໍ່ ສຳຄັ ນ ອີກຕໍ່ໄປແລ້ວ ເພາະຕອນນີ້ລາວມຸ່ງໝັ້ນພຽງແຕ່ ກັບທຸລະກິດ ແລະ ເຕັກໂນໂລຢີທຈະຊ່ ີ່ ວຍສ�ງເສີມ ທຸລະກິດຂອງລາວເທົ່ານັ້ນ. “ຂ້ອຍໄດ້ເຮັດວຽກນີ້ມາດົນຈົນຂ້ອຍບໍ່ສົນໃຈ �ງັ ແລ້ວ. ແ�ຊ�ນ ເປັນສິ່ງທີ່ສວຍງາມ ແລະ ເປັນ ທຸກ ຢ່າງ ໃນ ຕົວ ມັນ ເອງ, ແຕ່ ຂ້ອຍ ບໍ່ ໄດ້ ເບິ່ງ ມັນ ໃນທາງນັ້ນ, ຂ້ອຍ ເບິ່ງ ມັນ ໃນ ແ�່ ທຸລະ ກິດຫຼາຍ ກວ່າ.” ກ່າວໂດຍ ໂມນິກາ. “ຂ້ ອ ຍເຮັ ດ ວຽກຫຼ າຍກວ່ າ ອອກໄປທ່ ຽ ວ ແລະ ຂ້ ອ ຍຮູ້ ສຶ ກ ພູ ມ ໃຈກັ ບ ຊີ ວິ ດ ຂອງຂ້ ອ ຍໃນ ຕອນນີ້ ເຊິ່ງບໍ່ແມ່ນຄວາມສຳເລັດທີ່ໄດ້ມາພຽງ ຂ້າມຄືນ. ຂ້ອຍອາຍຸພຽງ 35 ປີ, ແລະ ຫາກໍ່ຄ�ນ ພົບສັກກະຍາພາບຂອງຕົນເອງເມື່ອບໍ່ດົນມານີ້, ສະນັ້ນ ຂ້ອຍຄິດວ່າ ຍັງມີອີກຫຼາຍສິ່ງຫຼາຍຢ່າງ ທີ່ຂ້ອຍຕ້ອງເຮັດ.” MAY / JUNE 2018

EXPLORE

IN THE

HANOI

A one-hour ﬂight from Vientiane, historic Hanoi is the perfect destination for a rewarding long weekend break TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN

Ladies dressed in ﬂowing áo dài walk past a street painting in downtown Hanoi

ith its fading French colonial era architecture, frenetic street life, bustling markets, and a distinctly creative vibe, Hanoi has staked its claim as Vietnam’s city of culture. The heart of Hanoi is the Old Quarter that surrounds Hoan Kiem, the ‘lake of the sword restored’. A stroll around the lake before breakfast is a good way to start the day in this vibrant city. Here, ladies dressed in ﬂowing áo dài partake in lighthearted group workouts to the sound of Boney M’s ‘Brown Girl in the Ring’ and other 70s hits while more serious westerners jog the lakeside path with focused determination. A focal point for city life, the streets around the lake are pedestrianised every Saturday and Sunday – although the usual swarm of motorcycles is replaced with large motorized cars, tanks and emergency vehicles driven children. It’s a delightful family scene, and just one of numerous weekend activities here for youngsters. At the northern end of the lake is Ngoc Son island. It is the site of a rather underwhelming pagoda, but is reached by the bright red Huc bridge, which when lit up at dusk is one of the city’s most photographed attractions. Nearby at a Vietnam Tourism ofﬁce, visitors can sign up for free tours; The Stories and Legends of Old Hanoi, and Hanoi Arts and Crafts. Guided by students keen to practice their English, the tours run several times a day. Visit vn-tourism.com MAY / JUNE 2018

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eatthe street

For adventurous travelers, Hanoi is all about street food, open-fronted shophouse restaurants, cool cafés and bars. Step outside your hotel at dawn and vendors are already firing up charcoal braziers, setting out ankle-high plastic stools, and laying tables with chopsticks, condiments and tissues. There’s no need for recommendations here; eating in Hanoi is all about wandering the warren of streets and alleyways in the Old Quarter and stopping to feast on freshly cooked fare wherever the fancy takes you. There’s crusty baguettes warmed over charcoal and stuffed with herb-rich omelette, bahn cuon rolled steamed rice noodle sheets with pork or chicken, cha ca fried fish in a noodle soup, the Hanoi mainstay of bun cha grilled pork balls with fermented rice noodles, herbs and a sweet spicy dressing, and of course pho noodle soup, and the ubiquitous bahn mi pâté, pork and salad baguette. Fresh food, along with plenty of breakfast vendors and restaurants, can be found in and around Dong Xuan, one of Hanoi’s most colourful markets. For a more contemporary take on Vietnamese cuisine, head to Spices Garden within Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. Here, Executive Sous Chef Nguyen Thanh Van creates exquisite authentically flavoured dishes served with

artistic ﬂair. The ﬁrst Vietnamese woman to become a member of l’Académie Culinaire de France, Chef Nguyen elevates local cuisine with standout dishes such as grilled Quy Nhon baby lobster with passion fruit sauce, spinach, and baby vegetables from Dalat. Spices Garden is open daily for lunch and dinner. There’s also a barbecue dinner every Saturday evening.

Distinctive northern Vietnamese cuisine can be found at Chim Sao. In this 1930s townhouse, diners can discover intriguing dishes such as duck with green star fruit, soup with braised catﬁsh and green bananas, smoked mountain boar, sweet potato leaves sautéed with garlic, fried sticky rice, and numerous other dishes seldom found elsewhere.

Visit chimsao.com

Traditionally, Hanoians are tea drink6 ers but in recent years a still burgeoning coffee scene has emerged. Tapping into the trend for nostalgia and rustic interiors is Cộng Cà Phê. The franchise has 17 venues across the city, including one overlooking St Joseph’s Cathedral. Its military themed and propaganda

5 1. Hanoi is a fantastic city for street food 2. A vendor selling fruits and vegetables at Dong Xuan market 3. A feast of Vietnamese ďŹ&#x201A;avours at Spices Garden. 4. Whole grilled baby lobster, a standout modern Vietnamese dish at Spices Garden 5. Ladies selling fruit from bicycles are a common sight in Hanoi 6. Huc bridge lit up at night

MAY / JUNE 2018

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Traditionally, Hanoians are tea drinkers but in recent years a still burgeoning coffee scene has emerged. Tapping into the trend for nostalgia and rustic interiors is Cộng Cà Phê. The franchise has 17 venues across the city, including one overlooking St Joseph’s Cathedral. Its military themed and propaganda décor is a big hit with visitors. Locals, however, opt for Aha and branches such as the one at 92C Nguyen Huu Huan are always packed. To sate your thirst after a long day exploring, search out a Bia Hoi joint. Located throughout the city, these no-frills bars are an institution and serve freshly brewed low alcohol beer for less than half a dollar a glass.

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1. A picture on the wall of C�ȏng Cà Phê 2. In recent years Hanoi's café scene has flourished 3. Café Lautrec at Hotel de l'Opera 4. The city's most prestigious address – Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 5. Luxury and timeless style at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

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where to stay

Hanoi offers an almost limitless selection of hotels for all budgets. For convenience, culture and nightlife choose a property in the Old Quarter close to Hoan Kiem. Hanoi Capella Hotel on 40 Lo Su Road, just a couple of minutes from the north-end of the lake is a great example. What makes Hanoi’s mid-price hotels standout are extremely courteous, helpful staff, most of whom speak flawless English. Visit hanoicapellahotel.com. For those looking to experience luxury and a touch of colonial era grandeur, there are two standout hotels, the iconic Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi where Graham Greene wrote The Quiet American and now has a luxurious suite named after him, and the nearby Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi. Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi The city’s most prestigious address for more than a century has been Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. The grand old dame of Hanoi manages to retain the grace, ambience and romanticism of the Golden Age of travel in the 20s and 30s when guests included Somer-

set Maugham who spent a year here writing Gentlemen in the Parlour about his travels throughout Southeast Asia, and Charlie Chaplin who spent his honeymoon here in 1936 after marrying Paulette Goddard in Shanghai. Today, the 364-room hotel features the historic Metropole wing which was inspired by classic French architecture, and the more recent addition of the contemporary Opera wing. An essential part of any stay at the hotel is a free tour known as the Path of History and Bomb Shelter Tour. Passionately delivered by local historian, the 45-minute tour provides insight not only about the hotel’s fascinating heritage but also reveals little known facts about Hanoi. It ends with a visit to the Metropole’s own bomb shelter which protected guests such as Joan Baez and Jane Fonda from air raids during the American War 1964, after which it was sealed off. Remarkably, it was forgotten about and only rediscovered by chance during renovations of the Bamboo Bar in 2011. The tours are offered exclusively for guests of the hotel, daily at 5 p.m. and 6 p.m.

Nights at the Opera Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi is an MGallery hotel, one of a collection of hotels noted for their individual design, sense of place and history. The hotel is in downtown Hanoi, a short distance from Hoan Kiem lake and the imposing historic Hanoi Opera House from which it draws inspiration. A theatrical theme runs through the hotel; from chic styling of the 107 rooms and suites, to décor at the Mediterranean restaurant, Café Lautrec, and cool bar, La Fée Verte (the Green Fairy) where you can enjoy light snacks and sip signature Absinthe cocktails while at live jazz band plays.

MORE INFO Soﬁtel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem soﬁtel-legend-metropolehanoi.com Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi, 29 Trang Tien Street, Hoan Kiem. hoteldelopera.com

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For Lao Tobacco, helping Lao farmers is good for business BY LATSAMY PHONEVILAY

rowing tobacco is not an easy choice for Lao farmers. For starters, tobacco is a much more expensive crop to cultivate than, say, rice, sweet corn or peas. In fact, the cost of growing tobacco is almost double that of most other crops. That’s why Lao Tobacco Limited supports the farmers who grow its product by supplying the fertiliser and any other materials they require. These are “loaned” to the farmer, who repays the loan once the crop is sold . But while tobacco is expensive to grow, the returns are much higher, with farmers often making double the proﬁt of more traditional crops like rice or cucumbers. This is why many of the 1,544 farmers contracted to Lao Tobacco Limited have been growing tobacco for 15 years or more. Not only do they know that their work will pay off, they are also able to plant rice in the rainy season, before using the same ﬁelds to plant their tobacco in the dry season. Ultimately, tobacco crops have provided higher incomes to rural households, funds that can be used to develop infrastructure and improve their standard of living.

Photo: courtesy of Lao Tobacco

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ຄວາ�ມສຳເລັດ ການສ�ງເສີມຊາວສວນແມ່ນ ບູລິມະສິດສູງສຸດ ໂດຍ ລັດສະໝີ ພອນວິໄລ

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ານຕັດສິນໃຈທີ່ຈະປູກໃບຢາບໍ່ແມ່ນເລື່ອງ ງ່າຍສຳລັບຊາວສວນໃນລາວ.ຕ�ນທຶນໃນ ການປູກໃບຢາໃນໄລຍະທຳອິດ ແມ່ນສູງ ກວ່າເກືອບສອງເທົ່າເມື່ອທຽບກັບການປູກ ພືດຊະນິດອື່ນເຊ�ນ: ການປູກເຂົ້າ, ສາລີ ຫຼື ພືດຕະກຸນຖ�ວ ອື່ນໆ. ນັ້ນເປັນສາເຫດທີ່ ບໍລິສັດ ຢາສູບລາວ ຈໍາກັດ, ຜູ້ທຮັ ີ່ ບຊື້ໃບຢາຈາກຊາວສວນ, ໄດ້ໃຫ້ການຊ່ວຍເ�ືອ ດ້ານປຸ�ຍ ແລະ ອຸປະກອນທີ່ຈໍາເປັນຕ່າງໆ. ບໍລິສັດໄດ້ມອບ ໃຫ້ກ່ອນໃນລັກສະນະການໃຫ້ກູ້ຍືມ, ແລະ ຈະຫັກເອົາ ຄືນເມື່ອຊາວສວນນໍາໃບຢາມາຂາຍໃຫ້. ແຕ່ເຖິງແມ່ນວ່າ ການປູກໃບຢາຈະມີຄ່າໃຊ້ຈ່າຍສູງ, ແຕ່ຜົນຕອບແທນກໍ່ ສູງຂຶ້ນຕາມກັນ. ຊາວສວນຈະໄດ້ກຳໄລເກືອບສອງເທົ່າຈາກການປູກໃບ ຢາ ເມື່ອທຽບກັບຜົນກຳໄລຈາກການປູກເຂົ້າ ຫຼື ໝາກແຕງ. ນີ້ເປັນສາເຫດວ່າເປັນ�ັງຊາວສວນຫຼາຍໆຄົນໃນຈໍານວນ ຊາວສວນກວ່າ 1500 ຄົນ ໄດ້ປູກໃບຢາສະໜອງໃຫ້ບໍລິສັດ ຢາສູບລາວຈໍາກັດ ເປັນເວລາຫຼາຍກວ່າ 15 ປີແລ້ວ. ນອກ ຈາກເຂົາເຈົ້າຈະມີລາຍຮັບທີ່ດີຂນແລ້ ຶ້ ວ, ເຂົາເຈົ້າຍັງສາມາດ ປູກເຂົ້າໃນລະດູຝົນໃນທີ່ດິນຜືນດຽວກັນໄດ້ ເພາະວ່າການ ປູກໃບຢາໃນລາວແມ່ນຕ້ອງປູກໃນຍາມແລ້ງເທົ່ານັ້ນ. ການປູກໃບຢາສູບໄດ້ເຮັດໃຫ້ປະຊາຊົນໃນເຂດຊົນນະບົດ ມີລາຍຮັບສູງຂຶ້ນ, ມີທຶນໃນການພັດທະນາໂຄງລ່າງພື້ນຖານ ໃນບ້ານ ແລະ ເຮັດໃຫ້ຊີວິດການເປັນຢູ່ຂອງຊາວສວນດີຂນ ຶ້ ອີກດ້ວຍ. MAY / JUNE 2018

Lao Construction Bank Limited, a joint venture between private Lao and foreign investors, was officially incorporated and began operations on the 22nd of February, 2012. Over the five years since its inception, the bank has continued to expand, evidenced by the customers who have opened accounts and who regularly use the bank’s services. When compared to 2013, the total volume of transactions (valued in kip) increased by 9%. In 2014, this increased by 33.19%, and increased continuously to 27.14%. At present, fixed deposit accounts make up 60.25% of the total sum of the bank’s cash deposits, and this is increasing each year. At the end of 2012, and until the 26th of August, 2016, it has been averaging 21.47% per year, and the bank has been able to make use of this capital to issue credit to investors, businesspeople, retailers, including small-scale, medium-scale and large-scale, in order to play a part in the effective implementation of the 8th Five-Year National Socio-Economic Development Plan (2016-2020), as well as the bank’s business plan as endorsed by the management board.

The Lucky Draw Event for Mahasab and Mahasok Savings Account Holders

Tan Sri Yuhao Dato’ SriDr DrAixinjuelo Yuhao Aixinjuelo Chairman of the Board, Lao Construction Bank

ທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງຈ�າກັດ ຈັບສະຫຼາກແຈກໂຊກໃຫຍ�ໃຫ�ລູກຄ�າ ທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງຈ�າກັດ ແມ�ນທະນາຄານຮ�ວມທຶນ ລະຫວ�າງ ນັກທຸລະກິດ ເອກະຊົນລາວ ກັບຕ�າງປະເທດ ໄດ�ຮັບອະນຸຍາດສ�າງຕັ້ງ ແລະ ເຄື່ອນໄຫວທຸລະກິດ ທະນາຄານ ຢ�າງເປັນ ທາງການໃນວັນທີ 22 ກຸມພາ 2012 ຕະຫຼອດໄລຍະເກືອບ 5 ປີ ແຫ�ງການສ�າງຕັ້ງ ທະນາຄານໄດ�ເຕີບໃຫຍ�ຂະຫຍາຍຕົວຢ�າງຕ�່ເນື່ອງ ສະແດງອອກເຖິງການໄວ�ວາງໃຈ ແລະ ຄວາມເຊື່ອໝັ້ນຂອງລູກຄ�າ ພ�່ແມ�ປະຊາຊົນທີ່ໄດ�ມາເປີດບັນຊີເງິນຝາກ ແລະ ໃຊ�ບ�ລິການ ກັບທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງ��ກັດ ເປັນ��ນວນຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ໂດຍທຽບໃສ�ປີ 2013 ຍອດເງິນຝາກ ທຸກສະກຸນເງິນທຽບເທົ່າກີບ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ 9%, ໃນປີ 2014 ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ 33,19% ແລະ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຢ�າງຕ�່ເນື່ອງ 27,14%ໃນປັດຈຸບັນເວົ້າລວມ ເວົ້າສະເພາະທາງດ�ານເງິນ ຝາກປະ�� ຫຼື ເງິນຝາກ ມີ��ນົດ ຮອດປັດຈຸບັນກ�ໄດ�ກວມເອົາ 60,25% ຂອງໂຄງປະກອບເງິນຝາກທັງໝົດ ແລະ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນແຕ�ລະປີ ຈາກທ�າຍປີ 2012 ເຖິງປັດຈຸບັນ, ຮອດວັນທີ 26/08/2016 ໂດຍສະເລ�ຍ 21,47% ຕ�່ປີ ເຊິ່ງເຮັດໃຫ�ທະນາຄານ ໄດ�ນ�າໃຊ�ແຫຼ່ງທຶນເງິນຝາກດັ່ງກ�າວ ປະກອບສ�ວນ ທຶນຮອນ ໃຫ�ສິນເຊື່ອແກ�ນັກລົງທຶນ ນັກທຸລະກິດ ຜູ�ຄ�າຊາວຂາຍ ທັງຂະໜາດນ�ອຍ ຂະໜາດກາງ ແລະ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ� ເພື່ອປະກອບສ�ວນໃຫ�ບັນລຸແຜນພັດທະນາ ເສດຖະກິດ ສັງຄົມ 5 ປີ ແຫ�ງຊາດ ຄັ້ງທີ 08 ແຕ�ປີ 2016-2020 ຂອງພັກ-ລັດຖະບານທີ່ວາງໄວ� ກ�ຄືແຜນທຸລະກິດຂອງທະນາຄານ ທີ່ສະພາບ�ລິຫານທະນາຄານ ໄດ�ຮັບຮອງ.

ງານຈັບສະຫຼາກບັນຊີຝາກປະຈ�າມະຫາໂຊກ-ມະຫາຊັບປະຈ�າປີ 2015-2016 ໄດ�ຈັດຂຶ້ນຢ�າງຍິ່ງໃຫຍ�ໃນວັນທີ 28/08/2016 ນີ້ທີ່ສູນການຄ�າລາວ-ໄອເຕັກ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ພາຍໃຕ�ການໃຫ�ກຽດເຂົ້າຮ�ວມຂອງຄະນະສະພາບ�ລິຫານ, ຄະນະ��ນວຍການ, ແຂກທີ່ມີກຽດຈາກພາກ ສ�ວນລັດ, ພະນັກງານ,ລູກຄ�າຂອງທະນາຄານ ແລະ ປະຊາຊົນ ເຂົ້່າຮ�ວມເປັນຈ�ານວນຫຼວງຫຼາຍດ�ວຍ ບັນຍາກາດຟົດຟື້ນ. ງານຈັບສະຫຼາກບັນຊີຝາກປະ��ຄັ້ງນີ້ ແມ�ນເປັນຄັ້ງທີ 4 ເຊິ່ງທະນາຄານໄດ�ຄືນ��ໄລສົມມະນາຄຸນ ໃຫ�ກັບລູກຄ�າດ�ວຍການແຈກລົດໃຫຍ� 3 ຄັນ. ��ລັບຜົນການຈັບສະຫຼາກ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກປະ��ມະຫາຊັບ ປະ��ປີ 2015-2016 ໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ໄດ�ແກ�:

ລາງວັນທີ 1 ລົດ TOYOTA LANDCRUISER VX LIMITED ຜູ�ໂຊກດີແມ�ນ: ທ�ານ ນາງ ຈັນເພັງ ດວງພະຈັນ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກເລກທີ: 0105390000125

ລາງວັນທີ 2 ລົດ TOYOTA REVO ທ�ານ ນາງ ��ສະຫວັນ ມິ່ງ��ປາບານ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກເລກທີ: 0100380100018

ລາງວັນທີ 3 ລົດ HYUNDAI EON ທ�ານ ອາດິສອນ ພົມມະຈັນ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກເລກທີ: 0104410200006

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ESCAPE

VILLAGE LIFE

IN NORTHERN

LAOS

At ďŹ rst glance, there doesn't seem much to Muang La. Therein of course lies its charms. Being right in the heart of a small community, gives an insight into local life. BY VINCENT VICHIT-VADAKAN

In northern Oudomxay, scenic Muang La is settled against the Nam Pak River and surrounded by beautiful mountains and remote villages.

y first morning I went for a long walk around the town. I stopped to see a family drying jungle cardamom, mostly for export to nearby China, on my way to visit the Khmu village of Muang La. One of the things that makes Oudomxay unique is the ethnic make-up of the province. Unlike the rest of Laos where Lao Loum (or “lowland” Lao) are the majority, the population here is mostly Khmu (at least 60 per cent), while Lao Loum are only about 25 per cent and ethnic Hmong (who originated in China) and other smaller groups make up the rest of the population. Though some have also converted to Buddhism, Khmu also maintain their animist beliefs, like the totems and charms attached to the outside of their bamboo houses. As you walk around the village, you can talk to people cooking, weaving, carving and going about their daily lives. A guide makes communication much easier, but failing that, body language, good will and a big smile go a long way. From the village, you can cross back to town on a bamboo raft. When we landed, we discovered a brand new (as yet nameless) open-air kitchen had just opened, catering to daytrippers from the provincial capital Muang Xay, about an hour away (Muang Xay is also the location of Oudomxay airport, the easiest way to access Muang La). We asked what was on the menu and were rewarded with a delicious stir-fry of tender local venison and a clear fragrant soup of simmered buffalo penis and jungle greens, prized for its, er, restorative qualities, particularly for male diners. Less adventurous diners will also find freshwater fish, buffalo steaks, chicken and pork cooked to order. Meals are enjoyed around a low table in a sala, or shaded gazebos. Another more physical walk takes you into the hills for some truly jaw-dropping vistas over rice paddies and fish farms, an opportunity to observe the bounty of the jungle first hand. Of course there are wild leaves and mushrooms for the picking, but what I didn't realise was that resourceful locals also cultivate plots in the middle of the jungle, either because their own lands are too small or because the soil is better suited to growing certain crops. The steep paths were muddy, and occasionally mined with massive buffalo droppings. At a certain point my guide Seechun had to hack our way through with a machete. I wish I'd been given my own, though the risk of inadvertently chopping into someone's farm would have been high. MAY / JUNE 2018

ESCAPE

MUANG LA

Muang La is also an ideal place to partake in tak bat or almsgiving. Whether or not you are participating in the ceremony, dress modestly. Especially for women, keep your head lower (by kneeling or sitting on a low stool), do not look the monks in the eye, and do not touch them. If you're not giving, you can take pictures but keep a respectful distance. One of the best ways to intercept the sunrise procession is to wait by the town market. Offerings like sticky rice will be available for purchase. To see the market in full swing you have to wake up early anyway so it makes sense to combine the procession with a market tour. Boiled hops and microscopic chestnuts, fried rice cakes, buffalo skin crackling, buffalo jerky and baby mandarine oranges were just a few of the snacks I enjoyed. Vendors sell everything from charcoal stoves to textiles and there is also an ofﬁcial handicrafts shop. As you wander back, you can visit Wat Pha Sing Kham, the town's only temple. Legend has it that the four centuries ago the sacred Buddha image was being transported by river when it broke away and chose this branch of the Nam Pak (literally “where the water separates”). Legend has it that four centuries ago locals brought it up the hill, built a shrine and converted to Buddhism. I checked into Muang La Lodge, a charming property in the middle of the village.

Oudomxay

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines oﬀers twice daily return services between Vientiane and Oudomxay Airport. Take a one hour bus ride from there to Muang La Lodge or book a pick-up service in advance. CONTACT resa@muangla.com +856 21 243 446 muangla.com

Ten rooms surround a small lush garden, each with furnishings inspired by French colonial times and local arts, parquet floors and balconies that look out over the river or the garden as well as additional seating on the ground floor of the stilted villas. The hotel prides itself on the absence of televisions and landlines (though on arrival you're given a mobile phone with direct access to the English-speaking staff for any needs). Recently the hotel gave in to requests for in-room wifi, so you can now easily post your idyllic holiday pictures. Crossing a wooden rope bridge, you reach a private island in the middle of the river where the hotel's pool and poolside bar are located. I loved the hotel's private sala, an observation tower that is perfect for taking in the sunset while sipping a pre-dinner kir, the classic French apéritif of white wine and black currant liqueur. The hotel was built overlooking the village hot springs. Pools were built for the villagers who come to bathe and play every evening. The warm water is believed to have therapeutic properties. Guests are welcome to use the public pools at any time, but for a more exclusive experience I started every evening with a moonlight soak in one of the two hot tubs on the property that are filled daily with the same hot spring water. What cinched it for me? The hot tubs are located at the top of four-metre high towers, bringing you that much closer to the stars. It left me relaxed for my leisurely French-Lao fusion dinner. Muang La Lodge's formula is inclusive of breakfast and dinner and requires a minimum two-night booking. Knowledgeable guides to accompany you around the village are also included and can take you on mountain treks, to nearby villages or other activities of your choosing.

4 5 1. Villagers make use of the natural resources of the jungle 2. Overlooking the villages around Muang La 3. A footbridge connects Muang La Lodge to its own private island where guests ďŹ nd a pool, bar and observation deck 4. Two hot tubs atop 4metre high towers are ďŹ lled with fresh hot spring water every day 5. The hotel's raised sala is the perfect place to enjoy cocktails at sunset

Photos: courtesy of Muang La Lodge

MAY / JUNE 2018

jeo

44 FLAVOURS

Jeo Bong

is the quintessential Lao Jeo. Originally from Luang Prabang, it is loved by all Lao people for its spiciness, sweetness and composition. And like wine, it gets better with age.

typical Lao meal isn’t complete without a Jeo – that tasty mélange combo of one’s preferred spices, vegetables and/or meat – mashed in a mortar and pestle. Many refer to Jeo as the Lao “creamy sauce” or dip. Sometimes, a full meal can consist of just Jeo and sticky rice, and if you are lucky, a side of steamed vegetables. It’s easy to eat: dip a small ball of sticky rice into the Jeo and savour the flavours as they take over your taste buds. But the simplicity by which it is eaten does no justice to the amount of effort and technique used to make it. The chefs at Kualao, a beautiful authentic Lao food restaurant, often must know exactly how long to grill the ingredients and how hard to grind them. And as it is prepared, tasting must happen quite frequently, as every strike of the pestle adjusts the unique flavor of the Jeo. The final product is something quite special that one must experience to understand.

jeos

and

Galore

Jeo Maklen

is Laos’ version of tomato sauce (or ketchup), tomatoes are grilled and then mashed into a wonderfully creamy dip that goes terriﬁcally well with the country’s famous grilled chicken.

Here are Kualao’s top Jeo picks!

Jeo Nor Mai Som (upon request)

This Jeo holds pickled bamboo shoots in high esteem. Once steamed, coupled with lightly grilled spring onions and peppers and seasoned with salt, this mashed bamboo Jeo will shoot right through your taste sensations!

Jeo Het Feuang

is a typical Jeo that uses paddy straw mushrooms as its primary ingredient. Light and easy to eat, this Jeo is a favorite for ﬁrst timers.

Jeo Mengda

is an exotic Jeo, whose primary ingredients consist of insects known as mengda or water beetles. This particular dish has a distinct aroma that invites only the daring and the bold to taste! While mengda are quite popular, other variants have included other insects like wasps and crickets.

Jeo Padaek Kheuang

purple sticky rice

has a potent kick and is delightful for those who love it but brings woes to the uninitiated, primarily due to its use of fermented ﬁsh sauce, an extremely popular Lao ingredient.

Jeo Saravan

hails from the southern province of Saravan and features grilled green peppers as its main attraction. This dish is great for tongue burning sensations all around!

steamed vegetables

Jeo Kapi (upon request)

Perhaps the least viscous in our selection, this Jeo takes the saltiness of shrimp paste (kapi) and fuses it with the natural spiciness of peppers and spring onions. A touch of lemon and orange juice and a dash of sugar infuses a gentle element of citrus into the mix, culminating in a unique Jeo that’s savoury, sweet and sour!

Jeo Pa Sai Mak Pet Yai

What do you get when you grind grilled then stir-fried ﬁsh (without the bones) and grilled bell peppers? A fantastic recipe for a mouthwatering Jeo that makes every meal memorable.

open daily +856 21215777 Kualao Restaurant kualaorestaurant.com MAY / JUNE 2018

HEATHFIELD INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL VIENTIANE, LAOS National Curriculum of England with Lao and Chinese Mandarin as Additional Languages Starting from Nursery up to A level

ENROLL NOW 2018-2019

We focus not only on inspiring and assisting each pupil to reach their full academic potential, but also encouraging them to engage in life-long learning experiences through Music, Art, Sport and Culture.

Servare Mentem 'Calming of the Mind'

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ot Ph

inding the perfect memento to bring back home is an integral and usually a fun part of travel. Luang Prabang, with its rich folk traditions, is particularly a fertile ground for discovering traditional-handicraft at its spectacular night market. The handicraft in Luang Prabang reflects the range of traditions of Laos encompassing centuries of crafts that have been embedded within rural communities. Production of silk fabrics is iconic of Luang Prabang textiles. These handmade textiles are very unique with motives often depicting naga serpents and mythical birds. Lao women are skilled weavers, often weaving fairy tales in their clothes, making every piece unique. In the era of intense consumerism this rich handicraft heritage is facing a challenge to endure its uniqueness amidst machine produced replicas. The replicas dominate the local markets and traditional Lao craftspeople are finding it ever more difficult to compete. To make a stand against this development, the Luang Prabang Handicraft Association in close cooperation with the EU, financed the Luang Prabang Handle with Care Project, initiating a series of actions aimed at preserving the local legacy of craft making and upgrading the skills of local artisans. Since mid-2017, 93 craftspeople in two pilot villages of Panom and Nayang have learned methods to infuse and blend modern artistry with traditional techniques to create 30 different contemporary handicraft items such as bags for tablets and personal computers, hats, table coasters, and other ornamental items. With these improved skills, the craftspeople are better positioned to make high quality products

EB Ia nd C

that are more appealing to the market. Once the products are made, the Luang Prabang Handicraft Association acquires them, and attaches the ‘Handmade in Luang Prabang’ Label to guarantee authenticity as a handmade in Luang Prabang handicraft.

Ms. Konlee from Ban Nayang used to make traditional products and struggled to sell items against the cheap replicas at the night market. In September 2017 she was exposed to the training initiatives of the project. She is now able to earn an average monthly income of $ 950 US Dollars and has expanded her business by creating 5 more craftspeople jobs at her workshop. So, when you are at the night market in Luang Prabang please lookout for handicrafts labelled ‘Handmade in Luang Prabang’ so that you are certain that you are buying a genuinely handmade product that is produced by the local craftspeople. The Luang Prabang Handicraft Association’s night market booth is a great place to visit. It is located virtually in the centre of the night market and includes a diverse collection of new and authentic handmade handicrafts made by local craftspeople from remote villages who otherwise would not have the means to come and sell the products on their own. In addition to the presence at the night market, the association operates a boutique shop at the village of Xiengmuan that showcases authentic products from Luang Prabang. You can help Luang Prabang sustain this extraordinary tradition of craft making by buying ‘Handmade in Luang Prabang’ and making your experience more authentic.

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ຫຼວງພະບາງ

ຄື່ອງຫັດຖະກຳຈາກ�ວງພະບາງແມ່ນສະທ້ອນເຖິງ ວັ ດ ທະນະທຳ ຮີ ດ ຄອງປະເພນີ ອັ ນ ງົ ດ ງາມ ແລະ ມີຄວາມປານີດທາງດ້ານລວດລາຍ ແລະ ສີສັນເປັນເອ ກະລັກສະເພາະທີ່ແຕກຕ່າງຈາກພາກອື່ນຂອງປະເທດ ລາວ.ແມ່ຍງິ ລາວແມ່ນເກີດມ າພ້ອມກັບພອນສະ�ນ ັ ການຕຳ ຫູກທີ່ຕິດຕາມມາຕັ້ງແຕ່ເກີດກໍ່ວ່າໄດ້,ໂດຍສະເພາະຜົນງານ ການຕ�ແຜ່ນແພຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າແມ່ນມີຄວາມເປັນເອກະລັກສະ ເພາະຂອງ� ວງພະບາງ.ເພື່ ອຮັ ກ ສາມູ ນ ເຊື້ ອສິ ລ ະປະຫັ ດ ຖະກຳແຫ່ງຫຼວງພະບາງຍັງຄົງຢູ,່ ໃນປີ 2016, ໂຄງການໃສ່ໃຈ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ໄດ້ຮ່ວມມືກັບສະມາຄົມຫັດຖະກຳຫຼວງພະບາງ ພາຍໃຕ້ການສະໜັບສະໜູນທຶນຈາກສະຫະພາບເອີຣົບ ເຊິ່ງ ຈັດຕັ້ງປະຕິບັດໂດຍອົງການຮ່ວມມືລາວ-ເ�ຍລະມັນ ໄດ້ສ�ງ ເສີ ມ ກຸ່ ມ ຜູ້ ຜ ະລິ ດ ງານສີ ມື ຫັ ດ ຖະກຳຂື້ ນ ທີ່ ບ້ າ ນ ຜານົ ມ ແລະ ບ້ານ ນາຍາງ ເຊິ່ງເປັນບ້ານຂອງຊົນເຜົ່າລື້ທີ່ຍັງຄົງຮັກ ສາມູນເຊື້ອການຕໍ່າແຜ່ນແພ,ການຍ້ອມສີໂດຍໃຊ້ວດ ັ ຖ�ດບ ິ ທຳ ມະຊາດ ແລະ ຜະລິດສິນຄ້າດ້ວຍມື,ເພື່ອຍົກລະດັບທາງດ້ານສີ ມືແຮງງານໃຫ້ແກ່ກມ ຸ່ ຜູຜ ້ ະລິດໃນປີ 2017, ທາງໂຄງການໃສ່ໃຈ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ໄດ້ຈດ ັ ຝຶກອົບ ຮົມທາງດ້ານເຕັກນິກການຕັດ�ບ ິ ຄຸນນະພາບສູງໃຫ້ແກ່ປະຊາຊົນ 2 ບ້ານດ�ງກ່າວ ເພື່ອສ້າງ ຄວາມເຂ�ມແຂງດ້ານທັກສະການຜະລິດສິນຄ້າໂດຍມີຜູ້ເຂົ້າ ຮ່ວມທັງ�ດ ົ 93 ຄົນ.ແບບຜະລິດຕະພັນທີ່ນຳໄປເ�ິກແມ່ນມີ � າຍກວ່ າ 30 ລາຍການ.ເມື່ ອສາມາດຜະລິ ດ ງານສີ ມື ທີ່ ໄດ້ຄຸນນະພາບແລ້ວ, ງານສີມືດ�ງກ່າວຈະຖືກຮັບຊື້ ໂດຍສະ ມາຄົມຫັດຖະກຳ ຫຼວງພະບາງ ແລະ ຈະຖືກຕິດກາໝາຍສິນຄ້າ Handmade in Luang Prabang ເພື່ອຢັ້ງຢືນວ່າສິນຄ້ານີ້ແມ່ນ

ເຮັດດ້ວຍມື ແລະ ມາຈາກຫຼວງພະບາງແທ້. ກາໝາຍຈະຢັ້ງຢືນ ພຽງສິນຄ້າແຕ່ ບໍ່ໄດ້ຢງຢື ັ້ ນຮ້ານຂາຍ. ນາງ ກອນລີ ຈາກບ້ານ ນາ ຍາງ,ເມືອງນ�ບາກເຄີຍຜະລິດສິນຄ້າທີ່ເຮັດດ້ວຍມືແຕ່ມບ ີ ນ ັ ຫາ ໃນເລື່ອງການຂາຍເພາະບໍ່ສາມາດແຂ່ງຂັນກັບສິນຄ້ານຳເຂົ້າ ລາຄາຖືກຕາມຕະ�າດກາງຄືນໄດ້,ໃນເດືອນ ກັນຍາ ປີ 2017, ລາວໄດ້ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມກິດຈະກຳນຳໂຄງການ ແລະ ໄດ້ຮບ ັ ການອົບຮົມ ແລະ ໃຫ້ຄຳປຶກສາຈາກຊ່ຽວຊານຂອງໂຄງການ. ໃນປະຈຸບັນ ລາວສາມາດສ້າງລາຍໄດ້ 950 ໂດລາ/ເດືອນ. ແລະ ລາວໄດ້ຂະ �າຍທຸລະກິດຂອງລາວໂດຍສາມາດຈ້າງຜູຜ ້ ະລິດຫັດຖະກຳ ເຮັດວຽກຮ່ວມກັບລາວຈຳນວນ 5 ຄົນ. ເມື່ອທ່ານໄປຕະ�າດກາງຄືນທ່ານສາມາດເຂົ້າໄປຊົມສີນ ຄ້າເຮັດດ້ວຍມືຢູ່ທີ່ບູດຂາຍສິນຄ້າທີ່ຜະລິດດ້ວຍມືຂອງສະມາ ຄົມຫັດຖະກຳຫຼວງພະບາງທີ່ເປີດເປັນປະຈຳທຸກມື້. ບູດຂາຍສີນ ຄ້ າ ຂອງສະມາຄົ ມ ເຮັ ດ ໜ້ າ ທີ່ ເປັ ນ ຕົ ວ ແທນ ນໍ າ ເອົ າ ສິ ນ ຄ້ າ ຈາກຜູ້ຜະລິດທີ່ຢູ່ຫ່າງໄກສອກຫຼີກເພື່ອມາຂາຍຢູ່ບູດດ�ງກ່າວ, ນອກຈາກບູດແລ້ວ, ທາງສະມາຄົມຍັງມີຮາ້ ນ ຂາຍສິນຄ້າ ທີ່ຊື່ວ່າ ຫຼວງພະບາງຫັດຖະກຳ (Luang Prabang Artisan) ເຊິ່ງເປັນ ແ�ງ່ ຮວບຮວມສິນຄ້າຈາກສະມາຊິກ ສະມາຄົມ ທັງໃນຕົວເມືອງ ແລະ ຊົນນະບົດເພື່ອມາວາງຂາຍຢູ່ຮ້ານດ�ງກ່າວ. ທ່ານ ສາມາດຊ່ວຍຮັກສາມູນເຊື້ອ ແລະ ສີໄມ້ລາຍມືຂອງ ຊ່ າ ງຫັ ດ ຖະກຳຂອງ� ວງພະບາງໄວ້ ໃ ຫ້ ຍື ນ ຍົ ງ ໄດ້ ໂ ດຍ ການຊ່ວຍສະນັບສະ�ູນຊື້ສິນຄ້າທີ່ເຮັດດ້ວຍມືຈາກ�ວງ ພະບາງ.

Excep

tiona l a n d L G re e n S e ao Re a siden son P ro m t otion s

Vang Vieng in Style

ຮ�ານອາຫານ ປູຄຳ

ສາລາ ສະປາ ແຄມນ້ຳ

Riversi de Sala Spa

Restaurant du Crabe d’Or

Riverside Boutique Resort & Restaurant du Crabe d’Or - Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng, Vientiane Province, Lao PDR www.riversidevangvieng.com

Facebook.com/Riversidevangvieng

info@riversidevangvieng.com

T +856 (0) 23 511 726-8

SNAPSHOT

ROCKETS TO

HEAVEN,

CALLING

FOR

RAIN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

ach year throughout the country, between Lao New Year in midApril to the beginning of the Â rainy season in June, Lao people celebrate in this hottest and driest period by launching homemade rockets (bang fai) into the sky to call for rain. The rockets are made in long lengths of PVC pipe or bamboo and paraded through villages with much fanfare, music, and dancing. In ďŹ elds they are set up to launch upward to the heavens, so that the gods might send plentiful rain to help the coming rice crop. The festival is held locally on dates deemed to be auspicious by local monks and village elders, but there is usually at least one nearby celebration every weekend no matter where you are!

SNAPSHOT

Above: Villagers set up the launching rack at a festival north of Vientiane. Below: Spectators gather to watch and cheer for their favorite rockets.

Above: The annual festival in Vang Vieng is famous throughout the country. Right: Rockets are usually launched in areas of mud or water â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in case of any misďŹ res or exploding rockets, the builders are dragged through the mud as a form of punishment.

MAY / JUNE 2018

SNAPSHOT

Above: As rockets are used to bring rain, this festival is also a fertility rite, with phalluses paraded as well.

Above and Left: A secret homemade gunpowder mixture is tamped into the rocket before parading to the launching rack.

Rocket festivals are named using Lao numbers according to rocket sizes: meun (10,000), saen (100,000) and laan (1,000,000) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the largest rockets draw the largest crowds as well.

MAY / JUNE 2018

BUSINESS

MONKEY BUSINESS

When the wave of social media crashed down upon Laos, one man saw it coming BY CAMERON DARKE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

eginning with a simple Facebook group, Danish entrepreneur Jeppe Bauer Carlsen, or JP as he is known, set himself on the path to launching the first digital agency in Laos. That Facebook group was So-So Club, an online meeting place for young people that were not lo-so (low society), but not hi-so (high society): just So-So. The group, founded in 2009, functioned like an online community whose aim was to bring together Lao people from all walks of life. Membership swelled rapidly, and JP was soon holding hold events for the group to get together offline, as well as online. “I remember we launched a private So-So party in an abandoned office building. We turned it into a sort of a pop-up nightclub for one night. We even used an old bathroom for the DJ booth,” says JP. And with the venues came sponsors, because So-So group was quickly being noticed. Carlsberg Group began sponsoring the events to help promote their brand, which placed JP firmly on their radar. After a brief foray into POS systems in other parts of Southeast Asia, JP returned to Laos to assess the market. Beerlao reached out to him, asking if there was a way he could help them with their nascent digital marketing campaign. “They came to me and they asked if I can help them with some digital marketing. I told them I’m not an expert, but I’m willing to give it a try.” And so, in early 2012, Digital Monkey was born (in JP’s living room). “Within six months we were managing most of their major brands. We started off with myself and a few other guys. We worked from my living room, creating content and doing some photoshoots for the Beerlao Facebook pages.”

above: Jeppe Bauer Carlsen and his team CONTACT info@digitalmonkey.la +856 20 78893388

“WITHIN SIX MONTHS WE WERE MANAGING MOST OF THEIR MAJOR BRANDS.”

And from there, the list of clients just kept growing and growing, along with the number of Facebook users in Laos. And after JP teamed up with some local partners, a number of big names such as Lao Ford City, Unilever, Beeline, and Express Food Group signed up with Digital Monkey. “Everybody in Laos knew that they had to do something digital. But very few people knew how to do it. We were able to assist them in engaging with their audiences in a way that had never been done before,” says JP. “Where digital marketing differs from traditional marketing is that in the old logic of marketing, you have a one-way conversation. You as a brand have a message and you communicate that – through radio, billboards, television – it's a one-way conversation. Where with social media it becomes a two-way conversation. Nobody likes to have a one-way conversation: we like to have a dialogue.” Now days, the Digital Monkey ofﬁce takes up a whole third ﬂoor at the K&C building, and boasts a large troupe of digital primates busily working away on content, video, and managing the social media presence of some of the biggest names in Laos. JP says that the digital world is changing at an ever faster rate. From text to pictures, and now to video, the trick is to catch the wave before it lands, and ensure that your marketing strategy remains resilient and adaptable. But that’s only a one-banana problem for Digital Monkey. MAY / JUNE 2018

BUSINESS

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ເມື່ອກະແສຂອງສື່ສັງຄົມເຂົ້າມາໃນລາວ, ຊາຍຄົນໜ�ງໄດ້ເຫັນໂອກາດທີ່ມາກັບກະແສນັ້ນ. ແປ ແລະ ຮຽບຮຽງໂດຍ ລັດສະໝີ ພອນວິໄລ

ຮູບຂ້າງເທິງ:

ເ�ັບເປ້ ຄາວສັນ ຫຼື ເຈພີ ຕິດຕໍ່ໄດ້ທີ່ info@digitalmonkey.la +856 20 78893388

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ລີ່ມຕ�ນຈາກກຸ່ ມເ�ສບຸ ກທຳມະດາໆ ໄດ້ສ້າ ງຫົນ ທາງໃຫ້ ເ�ັບເປ້ ຄາວສັນ ຫຼື ທີ່ຮູຈ ້ ກ ັ ກັນດີໃນນາມ ເຈພີ (JP) ສ້າງຕັ້ງທຸລະກິດການຕະຫຼາດດີຈີຕ້ອນແຫ່ງ ທຳອິດໃນລາວຂຶ້ນມາ. ກຸມ ່ ເ�ສບຸກນັ້ນມີຊວ່ ື່ າ ໂຊ-ໂຊ ຄລັບ, ເປັນບ່ອນທີ່ໄວໜຸ່ມທັງຫຼາຍ ຈາກທຸກສາຂາອາຊີບ ມາແລກປ່ຽນສົນທະນາກັນ, ເປັນກຸມ ່ ຄົນທີ່ບໍ່ແມ່ນ ໄຮ-ໂຊ, ບໍ່ແມ່ນໂລໂຊ ແຕ່ເປັນຄົນທຳມະດາ ໂຊ-ໂຊ. ກຸມ ່ ນີ້ໄດ້ຖກ ື ສ້າງຂຶ້ນໃນປີ 2009 ແລະ ສະມາຊິກໃນກຸມ ່ ກໍ່ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນເລື້ອຍໆ ເຈພີຈງໄດ້ � ຈດ ັ ງານໜ�ງຂຶ້ນເພື່ອໃຫ້ຄນ ົ ໃນ ກຸມ ່ ໄດ້ມາພົບກັນ, ບໍ່ແມ່ນພຽງແຕ່ພບ ົ ກັນໃນໂລກອອນລາຍ. “ຂ້ ອ ຍຈື່ ໄດ້ ວ່ າ ຂ້ ອ ຍໄດ້ ຈັ ດ ງານລ້ ຽ ງຂຶ້ ນທີ່ ຕຶ ກ ຮ້ າ ງ ແຫ່ງໜ�ງ ແລະ ເຮົາໄດ້ຈັດໃຫ້ມັນເປັນເທັກສຳລັບຄືນນັ້ນ, ມັນສຸດຍອດເລີຍ! ເຮົາຍັງເອົາຫ້ອງອາບນໍ້າມາເຮັດເປັນບູດ ດີເຈອີກ!” ກ່າວໂດຍ ເຈພີ. ກຸ່ມບໍລິສັດ Carlsberg ໄດ້ໃຫ້ການສະໜັບສະໜູນ ງານນັ້ນ ແລະ ອີກຫຼາຍໆງານທີ່ ເຈພີ ຈັດຂຶ້ນ ເພື່ອເປັນການ ໂປຣໂມດແບຣນຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າ ເພາະໄດ້ເຫັນວ່າກຸມ ່ ໂຊ-ໂຊ ເລີ່ມເປັນທີ່ສົນໃຈຂອງຄົນໃນສັງຄົມຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນ. ຫຼັງຈາກນັ້ນ, ເຈພີໄດ້ຍ້າຍໄປເຮັດວຽກຢູ່ຕ່າງປະເທດ

ໄລຍະໜ�ງ ເຮັດວຽກກ່ຽວກັບການຂາຍຊອບແວ ລະບົບ POS, ແຕ່ລາວຮູສ ້ ກ ຶ ບໍ່ມັກວຽກນັ້ນປານໃດ ຈ�ງກັບມາລາວ ເພື່ອມາຫາແຮງບັນດານໃຈໃ�່. ແລະ ພໍດີກັບທີ່ບໍລິສັດ ເບຍລາວ ໄດ້ຕິດຕໍ່ຫາ ເຈພີ ເພື່ອໃຫ້ລາວຊ່ວຍທາງດ້ານ ການຕະຫຼາດດີຈີຕ້ອນ. “ເຂົ າ ເຈົ້ າໂທມາຫາຂ້ ອ ຍ ແລະ ຊວນຂ້ ອ ຍໄປເຮັ ດ ການຕະຫຼາດດີຈຕ ີ ອ ້ ນໃຫ້ເຂົາເຈົ້າ. ຂ້ອຍບອກເຂົາເຈົ້າວ່າ ຂ້ອຍບໍ່ໄດ້ຊ່ຽວຊານດ້ານນີ້, ແຕ່ຂ້ອຍຍິນດີທຈະລອງ.” ີ່ ແລະ ນັ້ນກໍ່ເປັນຈຸດກຳເນີດຂອງບໍລສ ິ ດ ັ ດິຈຕ ິ ອ ້ ນ ມັງຄີ (Digital Monkey) ເຊິ່ງເກີດຂຶ້ນຢູ່ໃນເຮືອນຂອງ JP ໃນຕ�ນປີ 2012. ພາຍໃນ 6 ເດືອນ, ເຈພີ ແລະ ໝູ່ຂອງ ລາວໄດ້ບໍລິຫານເລື່ອງການຕະຫຼາດດີຈີຕ້ອນໃຫ້ຜະລິດ ຕະພັນຫຼັກເກືອບທັງໝົດຂອງກຸ່ມເບຍລາວ. “ພວກເຮົາເຮັດວຽກທຸກຢ່າງໃນຫ້ອງນ�ງຫຼ�ນໃນເຮືອນ ຂ້ອຍ ທັງຄິດເນື້ອຫາ ແລະ ຖ່າຍຮູບສຳລັບເ�ສບຸກຂອງ ເບຍລາວ” ກ່າວໂດຍ ເຈພີ. ຫຼງັ ຈາກນັ້ນ, ເຈພີກຮ່ ໍ່ ວມມືກນ ັ ກັບຄູຄ ່ າ້ ຄົນລາວ ໃນຂະ ນະທີ່ຈຳນວນຜູ້ຊົມໃຊ້ເ�ສບຸກໃນລາວນັບມື້ນັບຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນ ດຶງດູດໃຫ້ໃຫ້ມີລູກຄ້າລາຍໃຫຍ່ ຕົກລົງເຊັນສັນຍາກັບ

“ພວກເຮົາໄດ້ຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ລູກຄ້າ ສາມາດເຂົ້າເຖິງກຸ່ມເປົ້າໝາຍ ຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າໄດ້ ໃນແບບທີ່ ບໍ່ມີໃຜເຄີຍເຮັດມາກ່ອນ.”

Digital Monkey ຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນ ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນ ລາວ ຟອດ ຊີຕີ້, ຢູນີລີເວີ, ບີລາຍ, ແລະ ເອັກເປຣສຟູດກຣຸບ. “ທຸ ກ ຄົ ນ ໃນລາວຮູ້ ເ ຖິ ງ ຄວາມສຳຄັ ນ ຂອງ ການຕະຫຼາດດິ ຈິ ຕ້ ອ ນ, ແຕ່ ຄົ ນ ທີ່ ຖ ະໜັ ດ ວຽກງານ ດ້ານນີ້ ຍັງມີໜ້ອຍ, ເຊິ່ງພວກເຮົາໄດ້ຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ລູກຄ້າ ສາມາດເຂົ້ າ ເຖິ ງ ກຸ່ ມ ເປົ້ າ ໝາຍຂອງເຂົ າ ເຈົ້ າ ໄດ້ ໃນແບບທີ່ບໍ່ມີໃຜເຄີຍເຮັດມາກ່ອນ” ກ່າວໂດຍ ເຈພີ. ເພິ່ ນ ກ່ າ ວຕື່ ມ ວ່ າ ການຕະຫຼາດແຕ່ ກ່ ອ ນເປັ ນ ການສື່ສານແຕ່ພຽງຝ່າຍດຽວເທົ່ານັ້ນ, ບໍ່ວ່າຈະເປັນ ການສື່ ສ ານ ຜ່ າ ນທາງວິ ທ ະຍຸ , ປ້ າ ຍໂຄສະນາ, ຫຼື ໂທລະພາບ, ເຊິ່ງແຕກຕ່າງຈາກການຕະຫຼາດດີຈຕ ີ ອ ້ ນ ທີ່ເປັນການສື່ສານສອງຝ່າຍ, ທີ່ລກ ູ ຄ້າສາມາດເຂົ້າເຖິງ ທຸລະກິດນັ້ນໄດ້. ປັດຈຸບັນ ຫ້ອງການດິຈິຕ້ອນ ມັງຄີ ຕັ້ງຢູ່ຊັ້ນສາມ ຂອງຕຶກ K&C ແລະ ມີທີມງານລີດິຈິຕ້ອນຈຳນວນ ຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ທີ່ເຮັດວຽກຢ່າງຫ້າວຫັນ, ກະກຽມເນື້ອໃນ, ວີດີໂອ, ແລະ ບໍລິຫານສື່ສັງຄົມອອນລາຍໃຫ້ແກ່ບັນ ດາບໍລິສັດໃຫຍ່ໆໃນລາວ. ເຈພີ ກ່າວວ່າ ປັດຈຸບນ ັ ໂລກດິຈຕ ິ ອ ້ ນ ແມ່ນມີການ ປ່ຽນແປງຢ່າງໄວວາ, ຈາກຂໍ້ຄວາມ ກາຍມາເປັນຮູບ ພາບ, ຈາກຮູບພາບເປັນວີດີໂອ. ການທີ່ຈະນໍາໂລກ ດີຈີຕ້ອນໃຫ້ທັນແມ່ນມີເຄັດລັບຢູ່ບ່ອນວ່າ ເຮົາຕ້ອງ ຈັ ບ ກະແສຄວາມນິ ຍົ ມ ໃຫ້ ໄ ດ້ ກ່ ອ ນທີ່ ຄົ ນ ຈະຮູ້ ຈັ ກ , ທັງຕ້ອງຮັບປະກັນວ່າຍຸດທະສາດການຕະຫຼາດຂອງ ເຮົ າ ສາມາດປັ ບ ປ່ ຽ ນ ແລະຢື ດ ຢ ນ ຕາມສະພາບ ຕະຫຼາດໄດ້. ແຕ່ມນ ັ ກໍ່ເປັນພຽງເລື່ອງກ້ວຍໆເທົ່ານັ້ນ ສຳລັບທີມ ງານ ດິຈິຕ້ອນ ມັງຄີ.

CONNECTING

LAOS

TO THE

WORLD

FIRST DRY PORT IN LAO PDR

AT SAVAN PARK SEZ, SAVANNAKHET

We have learned through our extensive and hands-on experience the benefits of choosing the right geographical position for ourselves and our customers. The result is a perfectly positioned transport hub at the center of an intermodal network, designed to connect carriers, freight forwarders, importers and exporters with

their overseas customers by providing access to world classtruck, container and bulk cargo facilities. Our competency in providing prompt and dependable terminal services for international shipping lines is based on our prime location at the center of GMS corridors.

BEIJING

SHANGHAI

CHENGDU

DRY PORT / ICD Located at the East – West Corridor, linking Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam, mid–way between the nearest Vietnamese sea port of Danang, the Thailand port of Bangkok and Laem Chabang port

NANNING PINGXIANG

SHENZHEN HONG KONG

HANOI

YANGON

SAVANNAKHET

(located at cross point OBOR-EWEC)

BANGKOK PHNOM PENH

FREE TRADE ZONE FACILITY

HO CHI MINH CITY

• Easy re-exporting procedure • Deferral, reduction or elimination of certain duties • Improved compliance, inventory tracking & quality control • Unlimited storage time

PENANG KUALA LUMPUR SINGAPORE

ON SITE CUSTOMS HOUSE • • • •

One stop customs clearance for import and export ASYCUDA (automated system for customs data) Tax payment by smart-tax system SEZA authority (savan-seno special economic zone authority) • Lao agriculture quarantine & inspection service; food & drug inspection service

RISK MANAGEMENT SYSTEM • Vehicle Tracking and Driver Monitoring • 24 hours / 7 days CCTV Surveillance & Recording • Electronic Lock System

ADDITIONAL SERVICE • • • • • •

LOLO Service / Switching Truck Service Scale Weight up to 80 ton Mobile X-Ray (Hi-Co Scan) Reefer station Service Electronic Seal Trucks

www.savanlogistics.com

REGIONAL INTRANSHIPMENT HUB (China-ASEAN)

LOGISTICS • Road Freight - FCL cargo – door-to-door basis - LCL cargo – regional Intranshipment hub • Ocean Freight Manage your freight from door-to-door, port-to-port and everything in between • Air Freight Plays a vital role in the success of your business and strive to provide you with reliable and cost-efficient

FUMIGATION SERVICE Leading Manufacturer & Service Provider of Fumigation Services under Australia Standard (AFAS)

Land Lot No. 213, 218&219, Savan Park

Adcharaphan Burakorn

Km10, Road No 9, Ban Nongdeun,

Logistics Manager

Kaisone Phomvihane District.

Adcharaphan.b@savanlogistics.com

Savannakhet Province, Lao P.D.R.

Enquiry@savanlogistics.com

PEOPLE

LANTEN THE

YAO OF LAOS BY TARA GUJADHUR PHOTOS BY KEES SPRENGERS

Above: Lanten family in traditional dress 1. Lengths of indigo drying in Nam Lue 2. Lanten Bride 3. Lanten ordination with homemade altar

s. Yat, a petite 50-year old with wise, birdlike eyes, is showing me rolls upon rolls of heavy cotton cloth dyed a rich, deep blue. Dressed in a tunic and short trousers made of the same fabric, Ms. Yat tells me the cotton is farmed by her family next to their rice ﬁelds. Her sons help harvest the ﬂuffy cotton boles, which are then spun, woven, and dyed by her – all by hand. I follow Ms. Yat to a nearby shed, where large vats of fermenting indigo plant dye hold more lengths of cloth. Her hands

and nails, I notice, are stained the same blue. It is October, the start of the cotton production season, and like Ms. Yat, many women in Nam Lue Village are weaving and dyeing their cloth and display the same stained hands. Indigo is an integral part of the identity of the Yao Mun. In Laos, the Yao Mun are often known as Lanten, from Landian in Chinese, meaning “Indigo Yao.” Two centuries, ago the Yao Mun emigrated to Laos from southern China and settled along small rivers. The Lao government bestowed Yao

THE ETHNIC DIVERSITY OF LAOS Laos has a rich diversity of cultures, lifestyles and arts. Its 6.5 million inhabitants comprise 49 oﬃcially recognised ethnic groups in four language families. The majority Tai Lao people, from where the country derives its name, only make up 53% of the population, and primarily inhabit the lowland plains and riverbanks of southern and central Laos.

Mun communities the colloquial name of Lao Huay, meaning “Lao of the Streams”, and they now inhabit an estimated 33 villages in the far north of the country. It’s easy to recognise Lanten communities, as most members of the community, even youth, still wear their traditional indigo cotton clothing. Like Ms. Yat, older women continue to wear their hair in the traditional updo, with a small centre parting and a bun anchored with a silver hairpin. I have come to Nam Lue, in the heavily forested hills of Luang Namtha Province, to gather information on Lanten communities for a permanent exhibition at the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC) in Luang Prabang. The Lanten practice an ancient form of Chinese Taoism blended with ancestor and spirit worship, which exerts a strong inﬂuence over many aspects of their lives. They dedicate a large amount of their time to religious activities and ceremonies that will confer material rewards in this life and celestial serenity in the afterlife. Their elaborate rituals require ceremonial books and paintings, seals and stamps, and masks and robes. In the past, priests and families used heirloom pieces, passed down from generation to generation. However, when faced with ﬁnancial hardship, families often sell heirlooms to antique traders, forcing com-

munities to make do with crude copies made from cardboard, cheap wood, and bamboo. Back in her thatched roof home, Ms. Yat showed me her celestial crown, a breath-taking piece of jewellery which had been in her family for as long as she could remember. Composed of ornate hand-worked silver disks, pins, and chains, the crown is assembled on the head of a Yao Mun bride on her wedding day. Ms. Yat told me it was one of three left in the community. “What do families do if they don’t have a crown?” I ask. “They borrow or rent them from others,” she explains. Ms. Yat, and many other community members interviewed, does not seem disturbed by the loss of these heirlooms. Simple substitutes are available, and the community bands together to share what they have. I buy several rolls of cotton fabric from her, and arrange to buy more crafts on a regular basis from the community. Buying village-made textiles and handicrafts helps Ms. Yat and other Lanten families earn income and preserves the skill and heritage of the Indigo Yao. And, it may help lessen the pressure to sell rare cultural and ceremonial pieces. To learn more about the ethnic cultures of Laos visit the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang.

taeclaos.org

MAY / JUNE 2018

on the

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Lao Airlines hosts appreciation party for agents Lao Airlines held an appreciation party for partner agents in February, offering special prizes to agents with the highest sales for 2017. The event was held at Champasack Grand Hotel, in Champasack Province, in appreciation of ticketing agents, and to strengthen the relationship between agents and Lao Airlines. Mr Saleum Tayarath, Vice President of Lao Airlines, attended the event alongside representatives of ticketing agents, and Lao Airlines employees. Awards were presented to ticketing agents in two categories: The top ten sales agents for Vientiane Capital and the top ﬁve sales agents in other provinces. ໃນວັນທີ່ 09ກຸມພາ ທີ່ຜ່ານມາ, ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວໄດ້ ຈັດພິທມ ີ ອບ ລາງວັນເພື່ອຂອບໃຈບັນດາຕົວແທນຂາຍປີ້ເຮືອບິນທີ່ມີຍອດຂາຍສູງສຸດທ�ວ ປະເທດປະຈຳປີ 2017 ຂື້ນທີ່ໂຮງແຮມຈຳປາສັກແກຣນ, ແຂວງຈຳປາສັກ ເປັນກຽດເຂົ້າຮ່ວມໂດຍ ທ່ານ ສະເ�ມ ີ ໄຕຍະລາດ, ຮອງຜູອ ້ ຳນວຍການໃຫຍ່ ລັ ດ ວິ ສ າຫະກິ ດ ການບິ ນ ລາວ, ຕາງໜ້ າ ຈາກຕົ ວ ແທນຕ່ າ ງໆ ແລະ ພະນັກງານການບິນລາວຈຳນວນໜ�ງ ການຈັດງານຄັ້ງນີ້ແມ່ນເພື່ອເປັນການ ສະແດງຄວາມຂອບໃຈ ແລະ ຮັດແ�້ນສາຍພົວພັນອັນດີງາມລະ�່າງ ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ ແລະ ຕົວແທນຂາຍປີ້ເຮືອບິນ. ໃນງານດ�ງກ່າວ ໄດ້ມກ ີ ານມອບລາງວັນໃຫ້ແກ່ຕວ ົ ແທນທີ່ມີຍອດຂາຍສູງສຸດເຊິ່ງແບ່ງອອກເປັນ 02ເຂດ: ຕົວແທນທີ່ມີຍອດຂາຍສູງ 10ອັນດັບໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ແລະ ຕົວແທນທີ່ມີຍອດຂາຍສູງສຸດ 05 ອັນດັບຈາກບັນດາແຂວງພາຍໃນປະເທດ. ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ ຈະສືບຕໍ່ສ້າງສາຍພົວພັນ ແລະ ຮ່ວມມືເພື່ອ ເປັນການແລກປ່ຽນບົດຮຽນ ແລະ ປັບປຸງໃຫ້ແ�້ນແ�້ນຂື້ນເລື້ອຍໆ. The top ten sales agents for Vientiane Capital: ຕົວແທນ 10ອັນດັບໃນນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ: 1. Tian Tain 2. Amica Air Ticketing 3. Leego Air Service 4. J.M AIR BOOKING 5.TRANS EXPRESS 6. ALL TIME TRAVEL 7. LAO AMERICAN ENTREPRISE 8. KEOCHINDA TICKETING 9. IDEA CO.,LTD 10. LAO AIR SERVICE The top ﬁve sales agents in other provinces: ຕົວແທນ 5 ອັນດັບຈາກບັນດາແຂວງພາຍໃນປະເທດ: 1. All Lao service 2. Litthavixay 3. Thai’s Express 4. 12 LASY 5. TREASURE TRAVEL

Lao Airlines highlights safety to Insurers and reinsurers From United Kingdom. Lao Airlines received a delegation of international airline insurers and reinsurers from the United Kingdom on 01 Mar 2018, who visited the airline to learn more about its safety operations. Director of Flight Operations and Chief Pilot Capt. Phonesuthat Thammachalurne, who is responsible for the airline’s insurance, gave a briefing about ongoing safety enhancement initiatives within the carrier over the past five years when the company first began its International Air Transport Association (IATA) Operational Safety Audit (IOSA). The delegation was briefed on Lao Airlines’ in-flight operations of pilots, aircraft maintenance and other safety systems. Lao Airlines achieved the globally-recognised IOSA certification in 2015 and undergoes a safety inspection every two years by the IATA to ensure the required standards are maintained. ໃນວັນທີ່ 1 ມີນາ 2018 ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວໄດ້ມີໂອກາດຕ້ອນຮັບການມາຢ້ຽມຢາມຢ່າງ ເປັ ນ ທາງການຂອງບັ ນ ດາບໍ ລິ ສັ ດ ຜູ້ ໃ ຫ້ ປ ະກັ ນ ໄພທີ່ ມາຈາກປະເທດອັ ງ ກິດ ເພື່ອທຳຄວາມຮູ້ຈັກກັບລະບົບການບໍລິຫານຄວາມປອດໄພ ຂອງລັດ ວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ. ທ່ານ ພອນສຸທັດ ທຳມະຈະເລີນ, ຫົວໜ້າພະແນກປະຕິບັດການປະຕິບັ ດການບິນ ທັງເປັນຫົວໜ້ານັກບິນ ຂອງລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ, ລວມ ທັງຮັບຜິດຊອບທາງດ້ານການປະກັນໄພຂອງການບິນລາວ, ໄດ້ຂຶ້ນນຳສະ ເ�ີບດ ົ ສະຫຼບ �ກ່ ໍ້ ຽວກັບການດຳເນີນໂຄງການກວດກາມາດຕະຖານທາງ ດ້ານຄວາມປອດໄພການບິນຂອງສະມາຄົມການຂົນສ�ງທາງອາກາດສາກົນ ເຊິ່ງໄດ້ປະສົບຜົນສຳເລັດຢ່າງຕໍ່ເນື່ອງໃນຊ່ວງໄລຍະເວລາ 5 ປີ ທີ່ຜ່ານມາ. ບັນດາແຂກທີ່ມາຢ້ຽມຢາມໄດ້ຮັບຟັງການນໍາສະເ�ີກ່ຽວກັບລະບົບໃນ ການຄຸມ ້ ຄອງນັກບິນຕໍ່ການປະຕິບດ ັ ຖ້ຽວບິນລວມໄປເຖິງຄວາມພ້ອມຂອງນັກ ບິນ, ການບຳລຸງຮັກສາສ່ອມແປງເຮືອບິນ ແລະ ລະບົບການບໍລຫ ິ ານທາງດ້ານ ຄວາມປອດໄພຕ່າງໆຂອງບໍລິສັດ. ການບິນລາວໄດ້ຮບ ັ ໃບຢັ້ງຢືນມາດຕະຖານທາງດ້ານຄວາມປອດໄພໃນ ການປະຕິບັດການບິນຈາກສະມາຄົມການຂົນສ�ງທາງອາກາດສາກົນ ຫຼື IOSA ໃນປີ 2015, ແລະ ກໍຍງັ ຄົງສືບຕໍ່ດຳເນີນການກວດສອບລະບົບຄວາມ ປອດໄພດ�ງກ່າວທຸກໆ 2 ປີ ໂດຍນັກກວດກາຈາກສະມາຄົມການຂົນສ�ງທາງ ອາກາດສາກົນ ເພື່ອໃຫ້ຮັບປະກັນໄດ້ ແລະ ຍັງຄົງຮັກສາໄວ້ກ່ຽວກັບມາດ ຕະຖານທາງດ້ານຄວາມປອດໄພໃນການປະຕິບດ ັ ການບິນໃນລະດັບສາກົນ.

74 LAO AIRLINES INFO

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What documentation is required when traveling with Lao Airlines? For domestic flights, Lao citizens may present a Lao identification card, family registration book. Foreign citizens must present a passport to identifiy themselves. For international flights, all passengers must present a passport and visa of the destination country (if required).

Can Lao Airlines passengers choose their own seats? After passengers have received a ticket, they may reserve a seat by informing ticketing agents or by calling the Lao Airlines call center on 1626. Seat selection is only available on Air Bus 320 ﬂights.

What items are prohibited on Lao Airlines ﬂights? Dangerous items (chemicals and explosives) are prohibitied, and any containers of ﬂuids above 100 ml in volume.

Where are tickets sold for Lao Airlines ﬂights?

Personal items such as toothpaste, shampoo may be carried on to ﬂights, however these must be below 100 ml in volume.

Passengers may purchase tickets at the following locations: – At any oﬃcial Lao Airlines oﬃce or branch, either domestic or overseas – Via the Lao Airlines website at www.laoairlines.com – By calling the Lao Airlines call center on 1626 – Via the Lao Airlines mobile phone application

How can customers apply for a Champa Meuanglao loyalty card? Customers may apply for a Champa Meuanglao loyalty card at oﬃcial Lao Airlines oﬃce or branch, either domestic or overseas or via the website at www.laoairlines.com

Can frequent ﬂyer points be claimed after travel? If a passenger forgets to claim frequent ﬂyer points when traveling, the points may be redeemed from Lao Airlines within three months of the travel date.

Is there a limit on luggage weight per passenger on Lao Airlines ﬂights? The maximum luggage weight allowance for check-in baggage is 20 kilograms per passenger – unless transferring to a third country, in which case a passenger may bring two bags, no heavier than 46 kilograms in total. Infants traveling with guardians are allowed up to 5 kilograms for any ﬂight. Carry-on luggage is limited to 7 kilograms per passenger, with length, height, and width no greater than 115cm (30cm x 60 cm x 18 cm) or (12 x 24 x 7 inches).

Are food services provided for infants on Lao Airlines flights? Special food requests for infants can be provided, however Lao Airlines must be notified 24 hours in advance, and details must be provided regarding the age and requirements of the infant. For international flights, Lao Airlines will provide meals, while domestic flights do not include meals.

Passengers must check in how many hours prior to boarding time? In accordance with general regulations, passengers must check-in 2 hours prior to boarding time, or as appropriate for each airport. All Airports in Laos require: – For international ﬂights, passengers must check-in and weigh luggage 40 minutes prior to boarding. – For domestic ﬂights, passengers must check-in and weigh luggage 30 minutes prior to boarding.

Where are Lao Airlines lounges located? – Wattay Airport, Vientiane Capital – Luang Prabang Airport, Luang Prabang – Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok – Changshui Airport, Kunming – Baiyun Airport, Guangzhou – Noi Bai Airport, Hanoi – Tan Son Nhat Airport, Ho Chi Minh City – Incheon Airport, Soeul

MAY / JUNE 2018

24-28 May 2018 14-18 June 2018

8-12 May 2018

N\A

ສິງກະໂປ-ມາເລ-ອິນໂດ

3ມ້ື N\A

9-13 May 2018

N\A

2 ຄົນຂື້ນໄປເດີນທາງ

22-27 May 2018

4 ຄົນຂື້ນໄປເດີນທາງ

ສຽມລຽບ-ພະນມ ົ ເປນ

: champaholidays3@laoairlines.com

1,490,000 9-13 May 2018 25-29/03/18

3ມ້ື

HOT LINE

VIENTIANE

SAVANNAKHET

VIENTIANE

XIENGKHUANG

VIENTIANE

OUDOMXAY

VIENTIANE

LUANGNAMTHA

VIENTIANE

LUANGPRABANG

VIENTIANE

PAKSE

SAVANNAKHET

PAKSE

LAUNGPRABANG

ຈອງໄດ້ແລ້ວມື້ນີ້ເຖິງ30 ກັນຍາ2018 Book Now ! until 30 SEP 2018 / all include / limited seat Download Now:

SUMMER TIMETABLE 2018

FLIGHT NO.

QV224

QV516

QV514 QV512

QV224

LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

12:30

QV811

07:40

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

14:00

QV513

AT7

Daily

T Th

08:55

09:55

QV511

AT7

T Th

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

10:00

QV111

AT7

M T Th S

Daily

11:30

12:15

QV101

A320

W F Su

T W Th S Su 13:00

13:45

QV105

A320

Daily

T W Th S Su

M T Th S

17:00

17:45

QV103

A320

M W F Su

W F Su

17:00

17:45

QV536

A320

T Th S

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ

FLIGHT ROUTES

WIN

Narita

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

10:30

12:30

QV811

07:40

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

A320

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

AT7

DAY

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

A/C

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

FLIGHT NO.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

14:00

QV513

AT7

Daily

T Th

08:55

09:55

QV511

AT7

T Th

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

New Route

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

10:00

QV111

AT7

M T Th S

Daily

11:30

12:15

QV101

A320

W F Su

T W Th S Su 13:00

13:45

QV105

A320

Daily

T W Th S Su

M T Th S

17:00

17:45

QV103

A320

M W F Su

W F Su

17:00

17:45

QV536

A320

T Th S

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

Lao Airlines Ofcices LAO AIRLINES OFFICES

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EXPERIENCE THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF VANG VIENG ວ�ງວຽງ ມ�ນສະເ��ເ�ືອງລາວ

Overlooking the Nam Song River against the backdrop of dramatic limestone karst mountains, Amari Vang Vieng invites travellers to experience the rustic charm of Laos. Opening soon in March 2018 as the first internationally branded hotel in the area. Special privilege for bookings made by 30 June, 2018 for stays from 1 March, 2018 - 27 December, 2018 for all room types ໂ�ງແ�ມອາມາລີ ວ�ງວຽງ ຂໍເ�ີນຊວນທຸກທ�ານເ��າມາຮ�ວມຊ�ນຊ�ມຄວາມງ�ດງາມຂອງທໍາມະຊາດ ທ�ເ�ັມໄ�ດ�ວຍທ�ດສະນີຍະພາບອ�ນສວຍງາມຂອງຜາຫີນປູນນ�ອຍໃ��ຍຊ�ອນທ�ບກ�ນ ເ��ງໄ��ອ�ອມຮອບເ�ົາເ�ືອງວ�ງວຽງ ຄຽງຄູ�ກ�ບສາຍນ�າຊອງທ�ໄ�ຜ�ານຜາຫີນປູນເ��ານ� ພ�ອມສໍາພ�ດກ�ບມ�ນສະເ�� ແ�ະ ກ�ນອາຍວິຖີຊີວິດ, ວ�ດທະນະທໍາແ�ບຊ�ນນະບ�ດຂອງຄ�ນລາວ ພ�ອມເ�ີດບໍລິການໃ�ເ�ືອນມີນາ 2018 ນ� ເ��ງຈ�ດເ�ັນໂ�ງແ�ມ�� ລະດ�ບນານາຊາດແ��ງທໍາອິດທ�ເ�ີດໃ��ບໍລິການໃ�ວ�ງວຽງ ຮ�ບສິດທິພິເ�ດຢ�າງ�ວງ�າຍ ສໍາລ�ບຜູ�ທ�ຈອງຫ�ອງພ�ກທຸກປະເ�ດ ພາຍໃ�ວ�ນທີ 30 ມິຖ�ນາ 2018 ແ�ະ ເ��າພ�ກໄ��ຕ�ງແ��ວ�ນທີ 1 ມີນາ - 27 ທ�ນວາ 2018

Promo code / ລະຫ�ດໂ�ໂ�ຊ�ນ : CPM2018 For more information contact T +856 (0) 23511 800-9 E reservations.vangvieng@amari.com ສອບຖາມຂ�ມູນເ��ມເ�ີມໄ��ທ� +856 (0) 23511 800-9 �ື ອິີເ�ວ reservations.vangvieng@amari.com Amari Vang Vieng, Song River Road, Sawang Village, Vang Vieng, Vientiane Lao PDR

Bangkok Buriram Dhaka Doha

Galle

Hua Hin Johor Bahru

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Koh Samui Krabi Maldives Pattaya Phuket Yangshuo

Champa Meuanglao: May / June 2018

Articles inside

Lanten – The Indigo Yao of Laos

Snapshot – Rockets to Heaven, Calling for Rain

Monkey Business

From Laos to New York

Reaping What We Sow

Jeo and Jeos Galore

In the Heart of Hanoi

River of Wonders

48 Hours in Vang Vieng

Village Life in Northern Laos