Champa Meuanglao: July-August 2024 by Champa Meuanglao

Sabaidee

Dear Passengers,

Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

The beautiful refreshing rainy season is upon us as we celebrate the 35th Anniversary of Lao Airlines during Visit Laos Year 2024 continues. I hope you have a wonderful journey in Laos, and love it as much as we do.

Lao Airlines continues to operate flights to regional hubs and strives to create new products and develop more efficient flight routes in the future.

Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a ﬂight with us again soon.

Safe travels.

With highest respects,

Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello Readers,

Welcome to the July-August issue of Champa Meuanglao. The green monsoon season is upon us as we continue to celebrate Visit Laos Year 2024. The country is even more beautiful, verdant, and lush.

Wat Phou UNESCO World Heritage Site in Champasak is receiving a welcome restoration, thanks to the Indian Embassy in Laos. Read about their achievements in this issue.

The Lao startup business environment is poised for a boost from Korean development agency, KOICA, as it partners with Solutek for an exciting new project to build entrepreneurship.

Meuang Sing in Luang Namtha Province is the heartland of the Tai Leu people and their savory cuisine. Join Mick Shippen on a tour around this charming town.

Many travelers worry about their carbon footprint, but there is a solution in Luang Prabang - trips by electric vehicle! Vincent Vichit-Vadakan takes you on a tour in one of these silent machines.

A new cave has opened on the tourism horizon. Tham Pha Ka is tricky to access, but well worth the effort to see its beautiful formations and the emerald river that ﬂows through it.

Happy Reading!

The Champa Meuanglao team

ADVISORY BOARD

Khamla Phommavanh

Managing Director

Saleum Tayarath

Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT

Sitthideth Douangsiththy

Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo

Phaythoun Kounsouvanh

Deputy Managing Director of Finance

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED

Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com

Follow the official Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos.

DISCLAIMER

PUBLISHING

Editor In Chief

Editors

Contributing

Editors

Creative Director

Contributing Writers

Head Photographer

Contributing Photographer

Jason Rolan Aditta Kittikhoun Vilavanh Chanthavong

Thanouphet Maniseng

Mick Shippen

Vincent Vichit-Vadakan

Phoonsab Thevongsa

Mick Shippen

ADVERTISING

sales@rdkgroup.la mark.gandeza@rdkgroup.la (856-20) 56581416

RDK GROUP

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

COVER IMAGE

The portico of Wat Phou's renovation

Photo: ASI TEAM, VAT PHOU

LAOS-INDIA COOPERATION

The Northern Quadrangle after restoration

Wat Phou is a remarkably well-pre served planned religious complex of Khmer architecture in southern Laos, believed to be over 1,000 years old. The Champasak cultural landscape, which includes the Wat Phou complex, stretches from the sacred mountain of Linga Parvata (Phou Kao) to the Mekong River, laying out a geometric pattern of temples, shrines, and waterworks extending over some 10 km. This ancient landscape is believed to express the relationship between nature and humanity.

The Wat Phou site was originally built as a Hindu temple complex in the early 11th century, with some parts added or reconstructed in the 12th and 13th centuries. Built on an east-west axis, it stretches over 1.4 km, climbing up the slope of Phou Kao from the plain to about 100 meters above, where the main sanctuary sits on a terrace at the foot of the cliff. A sacred spring ﬂows behind the sanctuary. The summit of Phou Kao is striking because of its shape, which in ancient times was associated with the Linga (the phallic symbol of Shiva). This is the origin of the summit's ancient name, Lingaparvata, and its reputation as a sacred hill. The main sanctuary now houses a beautiful Buddha statue that serenely blesses the many worshipers and tourists who visit.

The unique layout and history of Wat Phou led to it being awarded a UNESCO World Heritage status in 2001 and makes it one of the highlights of any visit to Southern Laos.

India’s Ambassador to the Lao PDR H.E. Prashant Agrawal remarked, “The conservation and restoration of Wat Phou represents a unique example of cooperation between the Lao PDR and India to protect our precious heritage for future generations.”

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) prepared the first conservation report and project plan for the Wat Phou Complex in 2005. Founded in 1861, ASI has over 160 years of experience in conservation and restoration. It conserves more than 3,650 monuments and sites in India, including 25 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. ASI is also undertaking conservation work at the World Heritage Sites of Angkor Wat and Ta Phrom in Cambodia, My Son in Vietnam, and Bagan in Myanmar.

Based on the project plan, a memorandum of understanding was signed between the Ministry of External Affairs of India and the Ministry of Information and Culture of the Lao PDR in May 2007 to restore the Wat Phou complex. Since then, dedicated ASI teams including archaeological engineers, conservation engineers, archaeological surveyors, archaeological draftsmen, and 1

photographers have been working on the site. Phase 1 of the restoration project began in June 2009 and spanned eight seasons of restoration work, ending in May 2017. During this phase, ASI, under close supervision of and coordination with the Wat Phou Heritage Ofﬁce carried out the conservation and restoration work of the Northern and Southern Quadrangle according to UNESCO norms. The restoration project is now in its second phase which began in November 2018 and will run until 2027. This year marks 15 years of meticulous conservation and restoration work on the monument by ASI. The approach and quality of work has been monitored by senior experts of ASI, and periodically by the Expert Advisory Group of UNESCO.

left: Western Pediment, Southern Gallery, Southern Quadrangle (South West Corner) before restoration

1. Ambassador Prashant Agrawal inspects the restoration work at Wat Phou

2. A carving of an elephant near the main shrine

3. A pediment on the Southern Quadrangle after careful restoration

above: The Southern Gallery of the South Quadrangle before restoration

1. Repairing pillars that line the ceremonial pathway up the mountain

2. The Southern Gallery of the South Quadrangle after restoration

GETTING THERE

Lao Airlines frequently ﬂies to Pakse from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, and Ho Chi Minh City.

ASI aims to preserve and reveal the aesthetic and historic value of the Wat Phou complex. Fallen or disturbed structures have been restored following archeological norms, using anastylosis techniques. Imperfections and alterations that have become part of the structure's history have been preserved, as long as they don't compromise safety. The restoration process is a highly skilled specialized operation. preceded and followed by archaeological, historical, and structural studies of the monument. Dismantling and reassembly have only been done when necessary due to the nature of the materials and structure, and when conservation by other means is impossible or harmful. Missing parts have been replaced in a way that harmonizes with the whole.

In January 2013, the ASI team made an astonishing discovery beneath the entrance to the Nothern Quadrangle at the base of the mountain: a four-sided stone stele engraved

in Khmer lettering from the Angkor period. The stele, now at the site museum, is immaculately preserved, with each beautifully engraved letter still clearly legible. Composed entirely in Sanskrit verse, this stele is a document produced at the behest of a Khmer monarch called Ishanavarman II, probably in 926 CE (his ﬁrst regnal year, as noted by scholar Prof. Dominic Goodall). The ASI team has also discovered many other signiﬁcant archaeological objects during the conservation work.

The ASI team also provides training opportunities for Laos ofﬁ cials and experts on the preservation of historical and cultural monuments. In 2018, the Government of India awarded Mr. Bounlap Keokangna, the Padma Sri, India’s fourth-highest civilian award, for his contributions to the restoration project. Mr. Keokangna was the Deputy Director of the World Heritage Management Ofﬁce, Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism, Champasak Province.

As per the recommendations of the Expert Advisory Group of UNESCO, ASI team in collaboration with one of India's premier engineering institutes - Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Roorkee, is conducting scientiﬁc studies on hydro-geological, geo-technical and structural-stability assessments of Wat Phou site. In May 2024, a team of three scientists from IIT Roorkee visited Wat Phou to undertake preliminary survey. The team will also study the efﬁcacy of the water diversion system installed in the early 2000s uphill of the sanctuary.

The Wat Phou Festival, held annually in January/February, attracts many visitors and devotees to Wat Phou. With 2024 marked as “Visit Laos Year”, the number of tourists to the site is increasing. The Laos-India partnership is preserving this beautiful monument for people from all over the world to admire for years to come.

Entrance Porch of Northern Quadrangle (facing South) before restoration

Entrance Porch of Northern Quadrangle (facing South) after restoration

www.tmarkresortvangvieng.com

Welcome to Tmark Resort Vang Vieng

The first brand of Tmark Hotels & Resort in Lao. We are the first 5-Star Resort in Vang Vieng that has been certified by the Ministry of Tourism (MICT). Immerse and treat yourself in a getaway that you will surely treasure. Tmark Resort, boasts a panoramic view of the Karstic Mountains and Nam Song river and provide excellent service to all it’S guests.

DIO SPA

A place to Relax and Rejuvenate Body, Soul and Mind with our professional and well trained therapists offering unique massage experiences.

MEETING

Tmark Resort Vangvieng is the perfect destination for your next business meeting or event. We pride ourselves on our ability to meet your needs with style and creativity, and offer a comprehensive scope of services and amenities.

BANQUET AND EVENTS

Tmark Resort Vang Vieng has a perfect places for hosting events and celebrations. We can do indoor or outdoor dining services. Experience sumptous food and luxurios dining.

Beyond the temples, a foodie paradise awaits

VINCENT VICHIT-VADAKAN

Luang Prabang is so packed with history, and so full of things to see and do, that it’s easy to overlook that the former royal capital is also a great foodie destination for traditional Lao food and eclectic offerings from around the world. Here are a few places that you may have missed.

THE TEAHOUSE

The Teahouse Luangprabang is a perfect stop for anyone exploring the paper and weaving village. After exploring the crafts in Ban Xangkhong, stop here for refreshing Lao teas and coffees, including herbal teas from the house’s own garden. There are also tasty dishes like smoky roast eggplant, zippy papaya salad, plus a whole range of homebaked goods. Visitors can pick up edible and non-edible souvenirs to take home or attend occasional one-off events upstairs.

SECRET PIZZA

Sure, there is hardly anyone in Luang Prabang who hasn’t heard of Secret Pizza. And yes, the owners, an Italian-Lao couple, have been ﬁring up the wood ovens in their garden for over a decade now. But there is still something a little undercover about this improbable pizzeria, tucked away in a residential neighborhood. Part of the allure is due to the very limited opening hours: 6 to 9 pm, Tuesdays and Fridays only. Pro tip: come about 8 pm to avoid the very long waits and remember to pre-order pasta specials the day before. There are no extra portions. And what about the pizza itself? It’s some of the best in town.

LA MAMA

La Mama is a quirky once-a-week supper club. Quirky also describes the dinner’s charming host Monica, who assembles an eclectic table of locals, in-the-know visitors, and guests from her own guesthouse on her terrace from which you can enjoy some of the dreamiest sunset views over the Mekong. An inspired home cook, Monica covers the single shared table with dishes that strike her fancy on the day. You never know who your table mates are going to be, and that bit of serendipity is the best reason to go. Ask Monica about her homemade jams too.

LOST IN BAAN

Newcomer Lost in Baan became an instant hit when it opened at the end of last year. Its pan-Asian treats offer something for everyone, and its location just a few steps from the Night Market makes it a convenient choice smack dab in the middle of town. Beef in betel leaves and pandan-leaf chicken are excellent versions of staples from Vietnamese and Thai menus, while carrot lox on beetroot tinted blinis or a fusion-y soba carbonara are original house recipes that hit the spot. An Age of Enlightenment (tequila, absinthe, yuzu liqueur) from the bar may not leave you any wiser, but odds are you’ll be a fair bit happier.

ARTISAN BAR

Artisan Bar is maybe the last thing you’d expect to ﬁnd in the heart of the UNESCO Heritage zone: a spot for a serious drink with a splash of urban sophistication. When you push the door of this hidden bar, what you discover is a design that is sleek veering towards, but without actually tumbling into, the realm of kitsch. This 15-seat speakeasy requires no password (but phone ahead if you want to be assured of a seat). Don’t bother with a drinks menu: the team of earnest mixologists will talk you through your cocktail choices, though you could do worse than a spicy tamarind margarita, with its double whammy of tequila and fresh chili

TROPICAL MEKONG

Another recent arrival to the Luang Prabang dining scene, Tropical Mekong pulls off the unlikely feat of serving excellent Lao food as well as delicious pizza from its wood-burning oven. You want to be seated on the ground with low tables at street level or at dining tables closer to the river in time to catch a breath-taking sunset. Then tuck into your choice of thin-crust pizza or a dinner tray that includes Luang Prabang’s most-requested specialties, including or lam stew and khai phen river weed sheets with a spicy jeo bong dip. The same owner has taken over the Redbul Bar in town, taking the old backpacker haunt in a loungier direction, with drinks and the same mix of excellent local food and yummy wood oven pizza.

Whether you are a history buff, an adventurous foodie, or simply in search of a memorable dining experience, Luang Prabang has something special to offer. So, don't forget to indulge your taste buds amidst the city's many treasures.