Champa Meuanglao: May / June 2019 by Champa Meuanglao

FLYING

COLORS

A LAO AIRLINES RETROSPECTIVE

48 HOURS IN SHANGHAI Paris of the East

SOUTHERN CONFLUENCES Stay another day in Pakse

MAY / JUNE 2019

#ThisIsYourTime

TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES gmt AUTOMATIC. SECOND TIMEZONE COMPLICATION.

TISSOT BOUTIQUE & SERVICE CENTER MERCURE HOTEL 10 RUE SAMSENTHAI, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR, TEL : +856-20-555 24 098 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.MH@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM

TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

WORLDTIME - VIENTIANE CENTER NO. 13, KHOUVIENG ROAD, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, GROUND FLOOR, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR. TEL: +856-20-555 24 097 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.VC@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM OFFICIAL RETAILER: TAIFA TIME TRADERS 132, # 62/3 NONGBONE ST, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR . TEL: + 856-21-215 268

GETTING TO KNOW 1. ບໍລິສັດພາກຊັນແມ່ນບໍລິສັດແບບໃດ? ພາກຊ�ນເ�ັນບໍລິສ�ດລູກຂອງບໍລິສ�ດ ໄ�ອອນກຣຸບ ມາເ�ເ�ຍໃ�ປີ 2005 ໄ�� ມີ ກ ານລ� ງ ທະບຽນຕະ� າດ�� ກ ຊ� ບ ທີ� ຮ� ງ ກ� ງ , ພາກຊ� ນ ມີ ຮ�ານຄ�າ 115 ແ��ງໃ�ອາຊີ, ຮ�ານຄ�າຕ�າງໆລວມມີສນ ູ ການຄ�າ, ຫ�າງສ�ບ ພະສິນຄ�າ ແ�ະ ຊ�ບເ�ີມາເ�ັດມີລາຍໄ��ປະຈໍາປີແ��ນປະມານ 3.77 ຕ�ໂ�ລາສະຫະລ�ດ. 2. ພາກຊັນກໍາລັງກຽມເຮັດຫຍັງຢ່ ລາວ? ປະຈຸ ບ� ນ ພາກຊ� ນ ຈະເ�ີ ດ ສູ ນ ການຄ� າ ໃ�ປະເ�ດລາວໂ�ຍຕ� ງຢູ� ເ�ດAຂອງສູ ນ ການຄ� າ ສາກ� ນ (World Trade Center) ຂ� າ ງ ວຽງຈ�ນເ�ັນເ�ີ. ອີງຕາມສະພາບທ�ອງຖິ�ນຂອງປະເ�ດລາວໃ�ອະ ນາຄ�ດອາດຈະມີການດໍາເ�ີນກິດຈະການທີ�ກ�ຽວຂ�ອງກ�ບອະສ�ງຫາ ລິມະຊ�ບ, ການລ�ງທຶນທາງການເ�ິນ, ຮ�ານຄ�າປອດພາສີການພ�ດທະ ນາຊ�ບພະຍາກອນທໍາມະຊາດ ຂະແ�ງການອ�ນໆ.

1. What kind of business does Parkson operate? Parkson Retail Group Ltd, is a subsidiary of Lion Group Malaysia, which operates 115 retail outlets across Asia, including shopping malls, department stores, and supermarkets. Its annual income reaches over 3.77 billion dollars, and the company employs over 19,200 people. Next year, Parkson Retail Group will open its ﬁrst department store and supermarket in partnership with the World Trade Center.

3. ສນການຄ້າພາກຊັນ ວາງຕໍາແຫນ່ງທາງທຸລະກິດຂອງຕົນແບບໃດ? ປ�ນສະຖານທີທຸ � ລະກິດລະດ�ບປະເ�ດໃ�ສູນກາງທາງທຸລະກິດ (CBD) ຂອງນະຄອນ�ວງວຽງຈ�ນ.

2. What is Parkson preparing to do in Laos? Parkson is preparing to open a department store and supermarket in partnership with the World Trade Center shopping center.

້ 4. ໃນອະນາຄົດມີແຜນຈະນໍາເອົາແບຣນໃດເຂົົາມາໃນລາວ? ສູນການຄ�າພາກຊ�ນຈະນໍາເ�ົ�າຜະລິດຕະພ�ນເ��ອງສໍາອາງສາກ�ນ ທີ�ຍ�ງບໍ�ມີໃ�ລາວປະຈຸບ�ນ ເ��ອງນຸ�ງຮ�ມທີ�ເ�ັນແ�ຣນສາກ�ນຊ�ບເ�ີ ມາກເ�ັດພາກຊ�ນອາຫານແ�ະ ເ��ອງດ�ມຈາກໄ�,ຈີນ,ມາເ�ເ�ຍພ�ອມ ດຽວກ�ນນ�ນຍ�ງຍາດແ��ງໃ�ການນໍາເ��າ ມາແ�ຣນ ເ��ອຜ�າແ�ຊ�ນ ແ�ຣນອາຫານເ��ອງດ�ມຕ�າງໆເ��ນ: ແ�ຣນ H&M, ຢູນໂີ �(UNIQLO), KFC, ແ�ັກໂ�ໂ�(McDonald's), ສະຕາບ�ກ (Starbucks), ເ��ອ ເ�ີມເ�ັມຕະ�າດທີວ� � າງເ�ົ�າໃ�ລາວ. 5. ທ່ າ ນມີ ຍຸ ດ ທະສາດແນວໃດທີ່ ຈະດຶ ງ ດູ ດ ລູ ກ ຄ້ າ ໃຫ້ ມ າຊອ໊ ປ ປິ້ ງທີ່ ຫ້ າ ງ ພາກຊັນ? ສູນການຄ�າພາກຊ�ນມີແ�ບທຸລະກິດທີອຸ � ດມ � ສ�ມບູນລວມມີ: ຊ�ບເ�ີມາກ ເ�ັດພາກຊ�ນສູນອາຫານພາກຊ�ນ (Foodcourt), ຮ�ານຄ�າສູນລວມ ເ��ອງສໍາອາງສາກ�ນ, ໂ�ງ�ງ� ສູນກິລາ, ຮ�ານອາຫານແ��ລະປະເ�ດໃ� ອາຊີຕາເ�ັນອອກສ�ຽງໃ��, ສູນເ�ມ, ເ��ອຜ�າເ��ອງນຸງ� ຮ�ມຍ�ຫ�ສາກ�ນ, ບ�ອນ �ນສໍ ິ� າລ�ບເ�ັກນ�ອຍ, ສູນຝຶກອ�ບຮ�ມການສຶກສາ, ສູນເ�ີມສວຍ, ຄີນກ ິ ປ�ວແ��ວສູນການຄ�າ ພາກຊ�ນຮ�ບປະກ�ນວ�າສິນຄ�າທຸກໆອ�ນທີ�ລູກຄ�າ ຊ� ໃ�ສູ ນ ການຄ� າ ຂອງພວກເ�ົ າ ແ�� ນ ສິ ນ ຄ� າ ຂອງແ�� ທີ� ໄ�� ຮ� ບ ສິ ດ ຈາກແ�ຣນນ�ນໆແ��ວພວກເ�ົາຈະພະຍາຍາມຮ�ບປະກ�ນໃ��ລາຄາ ຂອງສິນຄ�າໃ�ສູນການຄ�າພວກເ�ົາເ��າກ�ບລາຄາສິນຄ�າໃ�ປະເ�ດ ອ�ນໆ, ເ��ອທີ�ຈະສະ�ອງການຈ�ບຈ�າຍໃ��ສອຍທີ�ເ��ອມໂ�ງກ�ບສາ ກ�ນໃ��ແ��ລູກຄ�າລາວ. 6. ເຮົ າຈະສາມາດຕິ ດຕາມກິ ດຈະກໍາ ແລະ ໂປຣໂມຊັ ນຂອງພາກຊັ ນໄດ້ ຊ່ອງທາງໃດແນ່? ທ�ານສາມາດ ຄົນຫາ � PARKSON LAOS ຢູທ � ີ� Facebook ແ��ວຕິດ ຕາມເ�ັນແ�ນເ�ດຈ�ຂອງພວກເ�ົາ, ເ� ອໃ�� ທາ� ນ ໄ��ຮບ � ຂໍມູ � ນກ�ຽວກ�ບ ກິດຈະກໍາ ແ�ະ ໂ�ຣໂ�ຊ�ນຕ�າງໆຂອງພວກເ�ົາ, �ງ� ຈາກພວກເ�ົາເ�ີດ ກິດຈະການແ��ວ ພວກເ�ົາ ຈະມີລະບ�ບ ການບໍລຫ ິ ານຄຸມ � ຄອງ ສະມາຊິກ ເ� ອທີ � ຈະ � ສົງ� ຂໍມູ � ນກ�ຽວກ�ບ ກິດຈະກໍາ ແ�ະ ໂ�ຣໂ�ຊ�ນຕ�າງໆ ໃ��ແ�� ລູກຄ�າຢ�າງທ�ນເ�ລາ.

3. What business position does Parkson lay out? Parkson is national business unit in the centre of business development (CBD) of Vientiane Capital. 4. What brands will Parkson be bringing to Laos? Parkson will be bringing oversea brand-name cosmetics and clothes that have ever been available in Laos to its shopping mall in Laos. Parkson will also feature a supermarket where customers can buy food and beverage imported from Thailand, China, and Malaysia. Additionally, Parkson will be importing fashions, and brands of food and drinks such as H&M, UNIQLO, KFC, McDonald’s, Starbucks in order to fulﬁl the market in Laos. 5. What strategy will you use to attract customers to Parkson? We will bring foreign brands to Laos and we will be the ofﬁcial agent for the brands. Our prices will be the same as those in other countries. Parkson will also feature a supermarket, food court, and children’s play area. There will be a lot of different activities for people to enjoy. 6. How can we stay in the loop about Parkson’s promotions and activities? You can get all kinds of info about Parkson by following the Parkson Laos Facebook page, and our website.

1. 百盛是一家什么样的公司？百盛商业集团是马来西亚金狮集团的零售部门于，2005 年在香港交易所主板上市，在东南亚拥有 115 家门店门店包括购物中心、百货公司、超市，年营业额约为 $37.7 亿美元。 2. 百盛准备在老挝做什么？目前在老挝已经确定经营百盛购物中心，位于世贸中心 A 区，毗邻万象中心。根据老挝当地情况，未来还可能涉足房地产开发、金融投资、免税店、自然资源开发等业务。 3. 百盛购物中心的商业定位是什么？

国家级商业地标首都 CBD 商业标杆。

4. 百盛购物中心将为老挝带来哪些品牌？百盛将会引入目前老挝没有国际化妆品国际服饰百盛精品超市，来自泰国、中国马来西亚的餐饮同时争取为老挝带来首家快时尚品牌及美食连锁快餐，如: H&M、优衣库、KFC、麦当劳、星巴克，弥补市场空白。 5. 您将采用什么策略来吸引顾客到百盛购物中心？百盛购物中心拥有足够丰富的业态，包含: 百盛超市、百盛美食城、百盛国际化妆品集合店，影院，运动城东南亚各国餐厅，游戏中心，国际品牌服饰，亲子乐园教育培训，美容美体，牙医诊所; 百盛购物中心可以保证老挝顾客购买的每一件商品都是品牌授权的正品; 我们会尽一切努力保证商品价格与其他国家一致，为老挝顾客提供与国际接轨的消费体验。 6. 我们可以从哪里知道百盛的活动和促销信息？您可以通过 Facebook 搜索 PARKSON LAOS 关注我们了解我们的活动和促销信息，开业后我们会通过我们的会员管理系统实时向我们的会员推送促销和活动信息。

BOUNMA CHANTHAVONGSA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES

Sabaidee Dear Passengers,

ສະບາຍດີບັນດາທ່ານຜູ້ໂດຍສານທີ່ຮັກແພງ,

Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

ຍິນດີຕ�ອນຮ�ບບ�ນດາທ�ານ ສູ�ຖ�ຽວບິນຂອງ ສາຍການບິນລາວ ແ�ະ ຂໍສະແ�ງ

Lao Airlines has collaborated with Joint Development Bank to create the JDB Champa Super Gold card, which can be conveniently used as both a VISA credit card and as a Lao Airlines membership card, which can be used to collect points and special privileges when flying with Lao Airlines.

ຄວາມຂອບໃ�ເ�ັນຢ�າງຍ�ງ ທ�ທ�ານເ�ືອກໃ��ບໍລິການຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ.

Lao Airlines also participated in the Lao delegation opening Visit Laos-China Year 2019 in Shanghai, China. Now Lao Airlines flies to many cities in China, including: Kunming, Guangzhou, Changsha, Chengdu, Shangzhou, Wenzhao, Jinghong, and Shanghai. We will continue studying the feasibility of expanding flights to other cities in China in order to further the Lao-Chinese relationship and allowing travel between the two countries to become even easier.

ລູກຄ�າຫ�ນເ�ັນທ�ນສະໄ� ແ�ະ ສະດວກສະບາຍຍ�ງຂ�ນ.

May 23rd this year marks the 30th anniversary of the founding of Lao Airlines. The staff of Lao Airlines and I promise that we will continue to improve, whether it be in service, safety, or other areas. To our respected passengers and supporters who have helped us and given us opportunities, we hope that we will continue to receive your support, always.

ໃ�ວ�ນທີ 23 ພຶດສະພານ�ຖືເ�ັນວ�ນຄ�ບຮອບການສ�າງຕ�ງລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ

On behalf of the board of management and the employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank you for your faith in our international level of service and the direction of Lao Airlines in our expansion to new destinations.

ບ�ນດາທ�ານໄ�ເ��ອຍໆ.

Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.

ການສືບຕ�ຂະ�າຍຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງ.

Safe travels. With highest respects, Bounma Chanthavongsa President & CEO of Lao Airlines

ລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດ ການບິນລາວ ໄ��ຮ�ວມກ�ນກ�ບທະນາຄານຮ�ວມພ�ດທະນາໃ�ການອອກ

ຜະລິດຕະພ�ນບ�ດ JDB CHAMPA SUPER GOLD ເ��ງສາມາດໃ��ເ�ັນທ�ງບ�ດເ�ດິດ VISA, ທ�ງເ�ັນບ�ດສະມາຊິກຂອງການບິນລາວ ທ�ສາມາດສະສ�ມຄະແ�ນ ແ�ະ

ສິດທິປະໂ�ດອີກ�າຍຢ�າງ ເ��ອເ�ີນທາງກ�ບການບິນລາວ ເ��ອໃ��ການບໍລິການ ການບິນລາວ ຍ�ງໄ��ເ�ັນສ�ວນໜ�ງຂອງຄະນະຈາກປະເ�ດລາວ ໃ�ການເ��າຮ�ວມພິທີ

ເ�ີດປີທ�ອງທ�ຽວລາວ-ຈີນ 2019 ທ�ເ�ືອງ ຊຽງໄ�� ສປ ຈີນ. ປະຈຸບ�ນ, ສາຍການບິນລາວ ໃ��ບໍລິການເ��ນບິນໄ� ສປ ຈີນ ຢູ�ໃ��າຍເ�ືອງເ��ນ: ຄຸນໝິງ, ກວາງໂ�ວ, ຊາງສາ, ເ�ິນຕູ�, ສາງໂ�, ເ�ິນໂ�, ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ, ແ�ະ ຊຽງໄ��. ພວກຂ�າພະເ��າ ຈະສືບຕ�ຄ�ນຄວ�າ ສຶກສາຄວາມເ�ັນໄ�ໄ��ໃ�ການເ��ມເ��ນບິນໄ�ເ�ືອງອ�ນໆໃ� ສປ ຈີນ ເ��ມຂ�ນ

ເ��ອຮ�ດແ��ນສາຍພ�ວພ�ນລາວ-ຈີນ ແ�ະ ໃ��ການເ�ີນທາງລະ��າງສອງປະເ�ດ ສະດວກສະບາຍຍ�ງຂ�ນ.

ຄ�ບຮອບ 30 ປີ. ຂ�າພະເ��າ ແ�ະ ພະນ�ກງານທຸກຄ�ນໃ�ສາຍການບິນລາວ ສ�ນຍາວ�າ

ພວກເ�ົາຈະສືບຕ�ພ�ດທະນາ ບ�ວ�າຈະເ�ັນທາງດ�ານການບໍລິການ, ດ�ານຄວາມປອດໄ� ແ�ະ ດ�ານອ�ນໆ ເ��ອບ�ນດາທ�ານຜູ�ໂ�ຍສານທ�ເ�ົາລ�ບ ແ�ະ ຜູ�ທມີ � ບຸນຄຸນອ�ນ

ສູງສ�ງ ທ�ໄ��ຄວາມກະລຸນາຊ�ວຍເ�ືອ ແ�ະ ໃ��ໂ�ກາດພວກເ�ົາສະເ�ີມາ ເ��ງ

ພວກເ�ົາກ�ຄາດ��ງຢ�າງຍ�ງວ�າ ພວກເ�ົາຈະຄ�ງໄ��ຮ�ບຄວາມອູ�ມຊ�ຊ�ວຍເ�ືອຈາກ ຂ�າພະເ��າຂໍຕາງໜ�າຄະນະນໍາ ແ�ະ ພະນ�ກງານການບິນລາວທຸກໆຄ�ນ ຂໍຂອບໃ�

ນໍາບ�ນດາທ�ານທ�ໃ��ຄວາມໄ��ວາງໃ�ເ�ືອກໃ��ບໍລິການຂອງພວກເ�ົາ ດ�ວຍປະສ�ບການ ການບິນທ�ມີຄຸນນະພາບສູງລະດ�ບສາກ�ນ ແ�ະ ຄວາມມຸ�ງໝ�ນຂອງການບິນລາວເ�ົາໃ� ສາຍການບິນລາວພ�ອມບໍລິການທ�ານທຸກເ��ອ ບ�ວ�າທ�ານຈະເ�ີນທາງໃ�� ື ໄ�, ຂ�າພະ

ເ��າຂໍໃ��ການບິນລາວເ�ັນອີກໜ�ງທາງເ�ືອກເ��ອອຳນວຍຄວາມສະດວກໃ�ການເ�ີນ

ທາງຂອງທ�ານໄ�ເ�ິງຈຸດໝາຍປາຍທາງ ແ�ະ ພວກເ�ົາ��ງຢ�າງຍ�ງວ�າຈະໄ��ມີໂ�ກາດ ຕ�ອນຮ�ບບ�ນດາທ�ານສູ�ຖ�ຽວບິນຂອງພວກເ�ົາອີກຄ�ງ. ຂໍໃ��ທ�ານເ�ີນທາງໂ�ຍສະ��ດດີພາບ.

ຮຽນມາດ�ວຍຄວາມເ�ົາລ�ບ ແ�ະ ນ�ບຖືຢ�າງສູງ, ບຸນມາ ຈ�ນທະວ�ງສາ

Hello readers, Welcome to the May-June issue of Champa Meuanglao. May 23rd is the 30th anniversary of the establishment of Lao Airlines State Enterprise, so we are celebrating with a retrospective of Lao Airlines throughout the years. In this issue we visit a mapmaker in southern Laos who is passionate about bringing more information to tourists, so they can see the real charms.

COVER IMAGE The Bund, Shanghai Photo by Phoonsab Thevongsa

We offer a look at the highlights of Shanghai, while intrepid adventurer Mick Shippen takes a deeper look at the city of Pakse.

PUBLISHING

Delving deeper into the world of Lao plants, we explore the hidden meanings of Laos’ national flower – the frangipani. On the culinary front, we board a Tuk Tuk Safari in Vientiane and ﬁll up on local flavors.

Managing Editor Editor Contributing Editor

Enjoy a relaxing stay at Avani+ Luang Prabang, and learn about Laos’ fascinating rocket festival. Also get some deeper insight into handicrafts around Pakse.

Production Manager

Last, but not least, we have an interview on the upcoming route to Fukuoka, Japan and what this exciting development means for both countries.

Creative Director Assistant Designer

Happy Reading,

Contributing Writers

The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team

ADVISORY BOARD Bounma Chanthavongsa President

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Soukthida Sengthavong Duangtavanh Oudomchith Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng Benny Omar Biba Vilayleck Claire Boobbyer Dyan Barutzki

Sommith Phunyathone Julia Case-Levine Mick Shippen

Phoonsab Thevongsa Bart Verweij Mick Shippen

ADVERTISING Director of Sales & Marketing

Cameron Darke cameron.darke@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55285580

Sales & Marketing Manager

Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578

Sales & Marketing Executive

Khamkeo Phongphachith khamkeo.phongphachith@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 59908541

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos

RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2019 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

CONTENTS

14 MAY / JUNE 2019

28 58 XX 34

22 42 48 12

WHAT'S ON

CITYSCAPE

FOOD CAPITAL

MADE IN LAOS

Our Guide to Events

48 Hours in Shanghai

The Foodie's Guide

Showcasing the Best

to Vientiane

Lao Products

in Laos

EXPLORE

SNAPSHOT

SOUTHERN LAOS

INSIGHTS

CLOSE-UP

Southern Confluences –

30 Years of Lao Airlines

The Hidden Gems

Mapping Southern Laos

Frangipani – Flower

of Pakse

Stay Another Day in Pakse

of Love and Death

FLAVORS

CULTURE

STAY

ON THE AIR

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

The Hungry Tuk Tuk

The Launch of the

A Heritage Stay –

Airline News, Timetables

Special Advisor

Safari

Lao Rocket Festival

Avani+ Luang Prabang

and Contact Details

Fumiyasu Sakata

WHAT'S ON

WHAT'S ON?

Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time. Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!

03.05.–04.05.

MAY–JUNE

20.05–24.05.

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL VIENTIANE

ROCKET FESTIVAL

VIENTIANE

The 5th iteration of Laos’ premier jazz event will take place at the Lao National Circus. Relax with the cool vibes of Lao and regional jazz performances.

Celebrate with locals as they call for rain just before rice planting season. Homemade rockets are paraded through villages and launched into the sky to alert the gods to send rain. Expect a lot of music, beer, and plenty of merriment! Dates vary from location to location.

facebook.com/JAZZDAYLAOS

read more on page 54

BIKINGMAN LAOS

NATIONWIDE

LUANG PRABANG

Test yourself on a challenging cycling race through the Lao mountains over 5 days, 3 provinces, and 780 km.

04.05.–05.05.

bikingman.com/en/laos-2019-en

VIENTIANE CITY FAIR VIENTIANE

Food and music for the whole family! Enjoy various Lao and international cuisines and music, while trying various methods of agriculture and many other activities. facebook.com/vientianecityfair

18.05. VISAKHA BOUXA NATIONWIDE

MID-MAY KEO LAK MEUANG FESTIVAL This festival is one of the highlights of the calendar in Sam Neua. Trade fairs and entertainments are set up to commemorate the jewel-topped pillar in the center of town.

MI CT

HOUAPHAN

ot o:

Commemorating the birth, ﬁrst sermon, and passing into nirvana of the Buddha, this holiday also marks the beginning of the Buddhist calendar. Temples all over Laos will hold candlelight processions at dusk.

To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

CITYSCAPE

SHANGHAI

Long a link between East and West, dynamic Shanghai embraces the past while building the future. 48ຊົ່ວໂມງທີ່ຊຽງໄຮ້ ສາຍສຳພັນອັນຍາວນານຂອງຕາເວັນອອກ ແລະ ຕາເວັນຕົກໄດ້ສ້າງ ໃຫ້ຊຽງໄຮ້ ເປັ ນສູນລວມແຫ່ງອະນາຄົດ ທີ່ຍັງຄົງເຊິ່ງວັດທະນະທຳດັ້ງເດີມຂອງຊາວຈີນ. TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

Day 1

THE BUND

ເດິບັນ (THE BUND)

The famous riverside embankment of the former Britishand American-controlled areas of the city, the Bund is a feast of Beaux Arts and Art Deco architecture. Originally home to great trading houses, gentlemen’s clubs, hotels, and banks, many of them have been repurposed while retaining their grand exteriors. This area is deﬁnitely also worth a stroll at night to see the facades lit up.

ສະຖານທ�ແ�ມແ��ນາທ� � ໂ��ງດ�ງ ໃ�ການທ�ຽວຊ�ມແ�ງສີໃ�ຍາມກາງຄືນ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງເ�ັນບ�ອນຈ�ດງານວາງສະແ�ງຂອງສະຖາປ�ດຕະຍະກຳ Beaux Arts ແ�ະ ບ�ອນວາງສະແ�ງງານສິລະປະຕ�າງໆ. ເ�ດນ�ເ�ີຍຢູ�ພາຍໃ��ການປ�ກຄອງຂອງອ�ງກິດ ແ�ະ ອາເ�ລິກາ; ແ�ະ ເ�ີຍເ�ັນແ��ງຄ�າຂາຍ, ສະຖານບ�ນເ�ີງ, ໂ�ງແ�ມ ແ�ະ ທະນາຄານ. ອາຄານ�າຍ��ງໄ��ມີການປ�ບປ�ຽນພາຍໃ�ແ��ຍ�ງຄ�ງຮ�ກສາລ�ກ ສະນະພາຍນອກແ�ບດ�ງເ�ີມໄ��.

PEOPLE’S SQUARE AND THE SHANGHAI MUSEUM

THE SHANGHAI MUSEUM

Shanghai, long a hub of trade for European colonial powers, who also installed a course for horse racing. A change in ofﬁcial attitudes to gambling lead to the area being nationalized and proclaimed People’s Square. Now it is dotted with many museums and public buildings - foremost being the Shanghai Museum, where you can learn the history of China through a magniﬁcent collection of artifacts which are well-displayed.

ຈັດຕຸລັດປະຊາຊົນ ຊຽງໄຮ້ ແລະ ຫໍພິພິທະພັນ ຊຽງໄຮ້

HUANGPU RIVER CRUISE Board a vessel at the jetty on the Bund for a 45 minute float along the Huangpu River. Take in the scenery on both banks from this new vantage point and imagine how it must have seemed for visitors in days past. As you round the bend toward the mouth of the river, buildings gradually get smaller, showing where the city still has room to grow.

ໃ�ສະໄ�ກ�ອນ ນະຄອນຊຽງໄ��ເ�ີຍເ�ັນ ສູນລວມທາງການຄ�າຂອງອຳນາດອານານິ ຄ�ມເ�ີຣ�ບ ແ�ະ ບໍລິເ�ນເ�ດນ�ຍ�ງເ�ີຍຖືກສ�າງ ເ�ັນສະໜາມແ��ງມ�າມາກ�ອນ. ແ��ເ��ອລ�ດຖະ ບານໄ��ຫ�ນປ�ຽນແ�ວຄິດ ນໍາຜືນດິນດ�ງກ�າວ ມາປະຕິຮູບໃ�� ລ�ບລ�າງເ��ອງແ��ງຂ�ນເ�ີມພ�ນ ອອກໄ� ແ�ະ ໄ��ສ�າງຊ�ໃ��ໃ��ບ�ອນດ�ງກ�າວ ເ�ັນ “ຈ�ດຕຸລ�ດປະຊາຊ�ນ”. ປະຈຸບ�ນ, ສະຖານທ� ດ�ງກ�າວເ�ັນທ�ຕ�ງຂອງບ�ນດາຫໍພິພິທະພ�ນ ແ�ະ ສະຖານທ�ລາຊະການຕ�າງໆ –ສຳຄ�ນ ທ�ສຸດແ��ນມີຫໍພິພິທະພ�ນຊຽງໄ�� ເ��ງທ�ານ ຈະໄ��ຮຽນຮູ�ກ�ຽວກ�ບປະ��ດສາດອ�ນຍາວ ນານຂອງຈີນ ຜ�ານວ�ດຖ�ບູຮານຕ�າງໆທ� ວາງສະແ�ງພາຍໃ�ຫໍພິພິທະພ�ນ.

ລ່ອງເຮືອທີ່ແມ່ນ້ າຫວງຜູ ໍ ່ ການລ�ອງເ�ືອທ�ແ��ນາ� � ງຜູ�ໃ��ເ�ລາປະມານ 45 ນາທີ. ທ�ານຈະໄ��ເ�ັນພາບທິວທ�ດສອງຝ�ງ ແ��ນາ � ແ�ະ ລອງຈິນຕະນາການເ�ິງພາບແ�ມ ຝ�ງສອງແ��ນາໃ�ສະໄ�ກ� � ອນ. ເ��ອທ�ານລ�ອງ ເ�ືອໂ��ງໄ�ຫາປາກແ��ນາ, � ທ�ານຈະຮູ�ສຶກວ�າ ຕຶກອາຄານຕ�າງເ��ງຄືນ�ອຍລ�ງ ສະແ�ງໃ�� ເ�ັນວ�າເ�ືອງໃ��ແ��ງນ�ຍ�ງເ�ືອພ�ນທ�ໃ�� ພ�ດທະນາຕ�ໄ�ອີກ!

HUANGPU RIVER CRUISE MAY / JUNE 2019

CITYSCAPE

Day 2 ສວນ ຢູຢວນ ສວນແ��ງນ� ຖືກຄ�ນພ�ບໂ�ຍຄອບຄ�ວຜູ�ຮງມີ � ໃ� ສະຕະວ�ດທີ 16. ສວນຢູຢວນເ�ັນສະຖານທ� ທ�ສາມາດສະທ�ອນໃ��ເ�ັນເ�ິງການອອກແ�ບ ທ�ມີລ�ກສະນະດ�ງເ�ີມຂອງຊາວຈີນ. ຕ�ບແ��ງ ດ�ວຍຕ�ນໄ��ທສວຍສ� � ດງ�ດງາມ ແ�ະ ມີສາລາ ແ�ະ ເ�ືອນຊ�ງຈີນພາຍໃ�ສວນກວ�າງ, ມີກ�ອນຫິນນ�ອຍໃ��ຈ�ດລຽງໄ��ຢ�າງສວຍງາມ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງມີອ�າງປາຄາບ ໄ��ໃ��ແ�ກໄ�� ຊ�ນຊ�ມ. ທ�ານອາດຈະຮູ�ສຶກດ�ງວ�າໄ��ຍ�ອນ ໄ�ຫາອີກຍຸກສະໄ�ໜ�ງກ�ເ�ັນໄ��. ນອກນ�ນ ຍ�ງມີຕະ�າດນ�ດຢູ�ໃ��ໆສວນ ທ�ທ�ານສາມາດເ�າະກິນ-ທ�ຽວ ແ�ະ ຊ�ອບ ປ�ງນຳອີກ.

YUYUAN GARDENS These gardens were founded by a wealthy family in the 16th century and are a good reflection of classical Chinese design. Adorned with beautiful plants and traditional pavilions arranged among boulders and carp ponds, it feels like stepping back into another era. The nearby bazaar is also great for eating and shopping!

YUYUAN GARDENS

LUJIAZUI AND ORIENTAL PEARL TOWER Lujiazui, on the east bank of the Huangpu River, was once an expanse of swampy farmland. Now it has become China’s most iconic ﬁnancial district. A growing forest of skyscrapers continues to change the skyline every few years. Oriental Pearl Tower is one of Shanghai’s most recognizable landmarks and offers fantastic views of the Bund from its observation decks and revolving restaurant.

LUJIAZUI AND THE ORIENTAL PEARL TOWER

EAST NANJING ROAD Once the premier shopping area in all of China when the nation’s ﬁrst department stores opened, and now with the road closed to trafﬁc, it remains a bustling place for people watchers and shoppers alike. A great place to stock up on all of your favorite international brands.

ຖະໜົນ ນານຈິງ ຕາເວັນອອກ ຖະໜ�ນດ�ງກ�າວເ�ີຍເ�ັນແ��ງຊ�ອບປ�ງຊ�ນ ນຳຂອງຈີນ ໃ�ສະໄ�ທ�ຫ�າງສ�ບພະສິນຄ�າ ແ��ງທຳອິດຂອງປະເ�ດຈີນໄ��ເ�ີດໃ�� ບໍລິການ ແ�ະ ປ�ດຈຸບ�ນໄ��ກາຍເ�ັນຖະໜ�ນ ຄ�ນຍ�າງ ທ�ນ�ກທ�ອງທ�ຽວສາມາດຍ�າງເ�າະ ຊ�ເ��ອງໄ��, ເ�ັນສະຖານທ�ທ�ເ�ັມໄ� ດ�ວຍເ��ອງແ�ຣນເ�ມຍ�ຫ�ຕ�າງໆ �າກ�ລາ�ໆ ປະເ�ດເ��າມາລວມໄ��ນຳກ�ນ.

EAST NANJING ROAD

TIANZIFANG A warren of traditional buildings and alleyways in the former French Concession, now home to small shops, boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. This is a great place to get lost while ﬁnding unique souvenirs and supporting local artists.

ຖະໜົນ ຖຽນຈີຟາງ

ຫລູເຈຍຊຸ ຍ ແລະ ຫໍໄຂ່ມຸກແຫ່ງເມືອງຊຽງໄຮ້

ເ�ັນຊ�ມຊ�ນໜ�ງທ�ປະກອບດ�ວຍອາຄານທ� ເ��າແ�� ແ�ະ ຮ�ອມຊອກຊອຍຕ�າງໆໃ� ເ�ດສຳປະທານຂອງຝຣ�ງໃ�ສະໄ�ກ�ອນ, ເ��ງປ�ດຈຸບ�ນກາຍເ�ັນຮ�ານຄ�າ, ຮ�ານຂາຍ ເ��ອຜ�າ, ຮ�ານຄາເ�� ແ�ະ ຮ�ານອາຫານ. ຖ�າຫາກທ�ານຄິດເ�ິງບ�ອນຊ�ຂອງທ�ລະນຶກທ� ເ�ັນເ�ກະລ�ກ ແ�ະ ຕ�ອງການຊ�ກຍູ�ຜ�ນງານ ສິລະປິນຊາວຈີນ, ທ�ານສາມາດມາເ�ືອກຊ� ຂອງຝາກຂອງຕ�ອນຢູ�ທນ� � ໄ��ເ�ີຍ.

(ORIENTAL PEARL TOWER) �ູເ�ຍຊ�ຍ ຕ�ງຢູ�ແ�ມຝ�ງຕາເ�ັນອອກຂອງແ��ນາ� �ງປູ, ເ��ງເ�ັນພ�ນທ�ປູກຝ�ງຂະໜາດໃ��ເ��ອ 25 ປີກ�ອນ. ປະຈຸບ�ນ, �ູເ�ຍຊ�ຍກາຍເ�ັນເ�ືອງທ�ເ�ັນສູນກາງດ�ານການເ�ິນຂອງຈີນ. ຕຶກສູງທ�ນ�ບມ�ນ�ບແ��ຂະ�າຍອອກ ໄ��ເ�ັດໃ��ເ�ືອງດ�ງກ�າວ ມີການພ�ດທະນາຢ�າງຕ�ເ��ອງ. ຫໍໄ��ມຸກແ��ງເ�ືອງຊຽງໄ�� ເ�ັນ ໜ�ງໃ�ສະຖານທ�ສຳຄ�ນທ�ມີຊສຽງຂອງຊຽງໄ�� ແ�ະເ�ັນບ�ອນທ� ທ�ານສາມາດເ�ັນວິວແ��ນາຈາກຈຸ � ດຊ�ມວິວ ແ�ະ ຮ�ານອາຫານ ອ�ອມຮອບ ຢ�າງສວຍງາມ.

TIANZIFANG MAY / JUNE 2019

FOOD CAPITAL

food CAPITAL

Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or ﬁne dining gourmandise.

Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane. Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle

STREET FOOD

GRAB & GO BY PVO The grilled pork Banh Mi Sandwich from Grab & Go features grilled pork, and traditional toppings including pickled vegetables, spears of cucumber and fresh jalapeno and cilantro in a mini soft baguette. There’s a choice of meats and vegetarian options. Quai Fa Ngum

FINE DINING

open daily 7 am– 8 pm

LA LUNE

don't miss

Beef Baguette or the classic Pork (Pate) Baguette

CAFÉ

CREPES A DAY

don't miss

the delicious Nutella Crêpe

Take your taste buds on your trip when you stop in to Crepes A Day, a new pretty café in Vientiane. Create your own made-to-order crêpes! Pick from your basic butter sugar crêpes and your choice of topping like fresh fruits or simple sweets for a taste that is all your own. The crêpes are ﬁlled, folded, wrapped and handed to you in one neat package that you can eat on the go or stay and enjoy.

Rue Thadeua (about 50m from Lycée français International de Vientiane) Mon–Sat 11 am– 8 pm

With its unique flavors and textures, created using local seasonal ingredients, La Lune provides a unique dining experience. Wine & dine in style at La Lune restaurant that presents Asian dishes with a modern flair. Sophisticated yet casual, with elegant décor embellishments and feel-good music in the background. Dishes lean towards comfort food, with items such as Spicy Lemongrass & Coriander Chicken with Chili Tamarind Sauce and many more. Rue Khoun Boulom, Ban Thongkhankham open daily 6 pm–12 am

don't miss

Pan fried Seabass ﬁllet with sauté vegetables & gratin potatoes white wine sauce

MADE IN LAOS

Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos? Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.

NALONGKONE PAPER ART This handmade mulberry paper has the “Tree of Life” motif made famous in Wat Xieng Thong. It is framed with decorative sand art.

ALL NATURAL WILD HONEY

130 000 KIP © Van Hai

CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY DESIGN

Nalongkone Shop Ban Xienglek, Luang Prabang facebook.com/nalongkoneshop

Birds Follow Spring is a Lao brand of functional design and jewellery, featuring handmade items in 18k gold. You can also purchase pieces of wooden furniture as well as stylish hand-woven silk scarves.

Kualao honey is raw, wild honey hand picked by trusted network of local community. Traditional cold extraction method is used to separate honey from the honeycomb to preserve the natural properties of this multi-ﬂoral honey.

120 000 KIP Kualao Restaurant Rue Samsenthai, Vientiane kualaorestaurant.com

RINGS FROM

600 000 KIP

TISSUE BOX COVER

Birds Follow Spring Behind Wat Ong Teu (Ban Watchan), Vientiane facebook/birdsfollowspring

LAODI LIQUEURS SOUVENIR SET Laodi is a craft rhum which is made in Vientiane with organic sugarcane grown by the Mekong river. This Liqueur Souvenir Set comes in five different flavors.

The LDWDC is a non-proﬁt organisation run by and for Lao women with disabilities.

50 000 KIP Lao Disabled Women's’ Development Center Rue Thadeua, Vientiane laodisabledwomen.com

200 000 KIP Rhum Laodi Laodi Bar Riverside, Vientiane rhumlaodi.com To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

EXPLORE

SOUTHERN CONFLUENCES Oft-overlooked Pakse unveils reasons to stay a while longer. TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN

A ďŹ sherman on the Mekong heads out for the evening catch

MAY / JUNE 2019

EXPLORE

n southern Laos, the Mekong river breaks away from the Thai border and winds its way to Pakse. For most visitors, the town is a one-night stopover before they follow the river’s course to Champasak and the Four Thousand Islands or head to the high ground of the Bolaven Plateau. But I found myself in no hurry to leave. The world’s best-known travel book publisher says of Pakse, “…don't linger long because there's not much to do.'' Now I’m no fan of pithy maxims but there is one I live by when traveling and it is this; if a guidebook states there is little of interest, you can guarantee it’s a place worth spending time. And that’s exactly how it turned out to be in Pakse. Downtown Pakse is held within a sweeping bend of the Xe Don river and the mighty Mekong, a geographical location that led to the French establishing the town as an important administrative outpost in 1905. Over the years it has grown into a bustling commercial centre and is home to Dao Heuang market, one of the biggest and most vibrant fresh markets in Laos. Open dawn until dusk, the market draws villagers from surrounding villages who arrive in shared songthaew trucks to sell food that they have grown, reared, caught or foraged.

GETTING THERE International ﬂights via Lao Airlines from Bangkok, HCMC, and Siem Reap to Pakse. Daily domestic ﬂights from Vientiane to Pakse.

Dao Heaung market also functions as a distribution centre for traders who purchase ﬁsh caught in the waters around the 4,000 Islands, as well as vegetables from outlying farms, which are sent up to Vientiane’s own and equally vibrant Khoua Din market. A visit to Dao Heuang market is an assault to the senses; colorful, chaotic and an unmissable experience. To capture it in full swing, rise early and go at 6 am. A smaller afternoon section operates from around 4 pm and is equally atmospheric. Nearby, there is also a daily roadside pig market where locals haggle with Vietnamese traders for the best price on piglets.

FADED CHARM 1. Many of the colonial-era buildings in Pakse date from the early 1900s and are in desperate need of restoration 2. Small but delicious – ﬁsh sold in Dao Heaung market ready for grilling 3. Naem neuang is a popular Vietnamese dish that must be tried when in Pakse

Although new buildings dominate the Pakse skyline, there are still pockets of faded colonial-era charm to enjoy. A short section of the backstreet called Thaluang provides a glimpse of past splendours but alas this row of crumbling 1920s shophouses stands as testament to years of neglect. So far only two buildings have beneﬁted from restoration and the new lease of life they deserve; as Se Se Wine & Beer and 124 Thaluang Coffee which serves local coffee from Pakxong. One of the most impressive and fully restored buildings in town is the Chinese Association Building on Road 10 but it is fun walking the streets in search of other less polished gems. The culinary landscape of Pakse has been no less affected by its past than the architecture. In the late 60s and 70s during the American war against Vietnam,

2 3

4. Fresh vegetables for sale at Dao Heaung market 5. Backstreet graﬃti in downtown Pakse 6. The Chinese Association Building has been lovingly restored 7. Dao Heaung, the mother of all markets 4

many Vietnamese sought refuge in Laos and today Pakse is home to a large community. Of course, when they settled their food traditions came with them. For some of the best naem neuang you are likely to taste, head to Naem Neuang (tel: 02055631339) where the pork balls for these delicious little ‘do-it-yourself’ rice paper wraps are still grilled over charcoal. The open-fronted family restaurant serves up excellent ban xeo stuffed crepes, goi cuon fresh spring rolls, bi bun noodles, and more. It’s also worth heading over to Nem Khao Chao Kao on Road 11 (tel: 020 59632888) for nem khao rice ball salad, pan pa whole grilled ﬁsh, and much more. By night, ascend to the rooftop bar at downtown Pakse Hotel for a sundowner or quaff Beerlao with locals at The Light House Station, an alfresco bar zone on Road 11 where you can eat, drink and listen to live music. Further along Road 11, 3 Yaek has a good selection of Lao-Thai food, friendly staff and an easy-going atmosphere (tel: 031215436).

MAY / JUNE 2019

EXPLORE

LOCAL CRAFTS Laos boasts many highly skilled craftsmen and women and there are several artisan communities within easy reach of Pakse. The most interesting is the village of stonemasons at Wat Chomphet. Lying just eleven kilometers north on Route 13, here you can see craftsmen hew Buddha images from stone using hammers, chisels, and angle grinders. Continue on another six kilometers to Ban Saphay and you can watch deft-ďŹ ngered ladies weaving silken threads into exquisite sinh, the traditional Lao skirts. The nearby island of Don Kho is also home to weavers and accessible by a short ferry ride. Less delicate but equally impressive is the work of blacksmiths, 81 kilometers west on Route 16 E. Here, old truck suspension leaf springs and other scrap metal are forged into rustic knives and machetes. No visit to Pakse is complete without a trip to Phou Salao temple which crowns a hill on the opposite side of the Mekong. The main attraction here is an enormous golden Buddha image, and of course the panoramic view. It can be reached by a steep staircase or a four-kilometre road which winds its way around the hill. Phou Salao is popular with evening joggers who go up by road and down the steps.

1. With its huge Buddha image, Phou Salao is a place of pilgrimage for many monks 2. A stonemason working on a reclining Buddha at Wat Chomphet 3. Visitors to Pakse can see blacksmiths forging knives and tools 4. Watching craftsmen hew huge Buddha images from stone is fascinating 5. A cat sitting in the window of an old building and watching the world go by

GETTING AROUND Head to Monument Books and pick up a copy of the beautiful Pakse Attractions map made by an expat living in Pakse. The map is one in a series of ďŹ ve covering southern Laos. The creator of the maps also runs NKM Homestay with his Lao wife. (visit mmapssouthernlaos. wordpress.com and chezlhabitantapakse.wordpress.com) There are several businesses along South Road offering scooters for hire from 50,000 kip per day, most notably Miss Noy, and Pakse Travel Co. They also offer tours and van and driver hire.

WHERE TO STAY Pakse offers a wide choice of guesthouses and hotels to suit all budgets. Many are centrally located South Road and convenient for restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and exploring the downtown area on foot. One of the newest additions is the 4-star Athena Hotel which features comfortable contemporary rooms and a secluded swimming pool (visit athenahotelpakse.com). Other options include the 3-star downtown Pakse Hotel on Soi 5 with its popular rooftop restaurant and bar, hotelpakse.com. Budget travelers can head to the Alisa Guesthouse and Lankham Guesthouse, also located on South Road.

SNAPSHOT

FLYING

COLORS

A LAO AIRLINES RETROSPECTIVE PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAO AIRLINES TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

An Antonov AN-24RV soaring in the sky

ao Airlines celebrates its 30th anniversary as a state enterprise this year. From its early beginnings with a mĂŠlange of aircraft and serving only a few domestic and international routes, the company has evolved through the decades into a reliable fleet with a staff of reliable professionals dedicated to upholding international standards on a range of routes, proving that when you fly Lao Airlines, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re safe with us!

SNAPSHOT

LAO AVIATION 1976–1989 Air transportation in Laos began in the early 1960s with several airlines which were merged in 1976 into Lao Aviation, a unit of the Department of Civil Aviation. In this early phase, the ﬂeet included a Fairchild C-123, a Douglas C-47, a Douglas DC-4,an Antonov AN-2, a Mi 8, an Antonov AN-24, and an Antonov AN-26, ﬂying routes to Hanoi, Bangkok, and Phnom Penh.

LAO AVIATION 1989–2003 Separating from the Department of Civil Aviation in 1989, Lao Aviation partnered with several foreign companies in order to train employees, boost standards, and improve the business. During this period the ﬂeet comprised of ATR-42, ATR-72, Xian Y-7, and Harbin Y-12.

3 1. An Andropov An-24RV waits on the tarmac 2. An Andropov An-24RV ready for takeoﬀ 3. A Boeing 737 at Bangkok Don Muang Airport in 1992 4. Flight attendants ready to greet guests in front of the Boeing 737 5. Flight attendants pose on the tarmac

4 5

MAY / JUNE 2019

SNAPSHOT

3 1. Harbin Y-12-II at Luang Prabang Airport 2. Boeing 737-2P5 at Wattay Airport in 2000 3. A Mi8 helicopter 4. An ATR 72-202 at Wattay Airport in 2004 5. The inaugural Vientiane-Guangzhou ﬂight in 2012 6. An Airbus A320 is loaded for takeoﬀ (photo: Phoonsab Thevongsa)

LAO AIRLINES 2003–present Under a new business plan, Lao Aviation rebranded to Lao Airlines and updated its livery with the frangipani ﬂower. Supporting businesses also developed, including Muangthong Hotel, Champa Holidays, and Lao Airlines Engineering Company. The airline overhauled its ﬂeet with four Airbus A320-214s, three ATR 72600s, and four ATR 72-500s to proudly serve travelers to its 6 domestic and 15 international destinations. The airline continues to develop and improve, even achieving International Air Transport Association (IATA) global safety and security standards every year since 2015.

5 6

THE HIDDEN GEMS OF PAKSE â&#x20AC;&#x201D; HANDICRAFTS AND LOCAL LIFE TEXT BY DYAN BARUTZKI & SOMMITH PHUNYATHONE PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT & BART VERWEIJ

akse provides more than just great transport links to other Southern Laos destinations. The capital city of Champasak province has its own distinct charm and offers tourists the best of both worlds: the relaxed sabai sabai way of life and the hustle and bustle of being a gateway city. Once you are there, stay for a while, and don’t miss out on the hidden gems this city has to offer.

THE WEAVERS OF BAN SAPHAI AND DON KHO Ban Saphai is located 18 kilometers north of Pakse. The Traditional Culture Center here opened in 2014 and can organize weaving demonstrations. The center also houses a one-stop shop where you can buy wonderful handicrafts from the surrounding villages. Textiles coming from this area are renowned for their beauty. Take a short boat ride along the Mekong to Don Kho from Ban Saphai. Don Kho is the oldest town in Champasak province, the first inhabitants came from Attapeu some 400 years ago. Now, there are 78 families living on the island; their livelihoods based on weaving, fishing, and managing homestays. Nine homestays were recently awarded the ASEAN Green Tourism Standard in recognition of the excellent quality of their services. Don Kho is a relatively small island that can be easily explored on foot. Here, under the shade of their traditional stilt houses, you can marvel at the skill of local residents weaving on their big looms. If you ask, you might even have a chance to get a weaving lesson yourself. It is also a good opportunity to directly purchase a souvenir from the weavers, and know that you have supported the community directly. While you visit the island, you can walk through rice fields, see vegetable gardens, and stand on beautiful sandy river beaches.

BAN DON KHOR – THE BUDDHA STONE CARVERS VILLAGE Ban Don Khor (not to be confused with the similarly named Don Kho above) and the more well-known Wat Chompet are located 13 km north of Pakse. Visit the local artisans carving traditional Buddha images. Take some time to appreciate the intricate process of stone carving; some can be as small as the palm of your hand, while some are life-size.

Weaving at Ban Saphai

MAY / JUNE 2019

SOUTHERN LAOS

Here you might be lucky enough to meet master sculptor, Mr. Khamlan. His family had been the ﬁrst carvers in the village; his father carved the impressive 30-meter high Buddha statue at Wat Chompet. He said that he learned to love the craft through his father’s influence, “I watched my father do it [drawing & carving]. I learned from him and I’ve grown to love stone carving.” Mr. Khamlan also mentioned that the smaller the stone, the more difﬁcult it is to carve; he added that it takes him one week to carve a palm-sized Buddha.

THE LAOS WIND TRACE ART MUSEUM A visit to this art gallery will give you a real insight into authentic traditional life, as portrayed by young Lao artists. Locally

GETTING THERE International ﬂights via Lao Airlines from Bangkok, HCMC, and Siem Reap to Pakse. Daily domestic ﬂights from Vientiane to Pakse. MORE INFO For anything and everything about Southern Laos visit: southern-laos.com

known as the “Korean Museum,” this unique art gallery located at KM7, is a joint project between Laos and South Korea.

BAN NONG BUENG – THE WOODCARVING VILLAGE Ban Nong Bueng is a traditional woodcarving village that has managed to pass on ancient woodcarving skills from one generation to the next. The traditional techniques used here, like carefully burning the wood until it turns black, originated from the Ta Oy ethnic group that still live in the highlands of Southern Laos. The village makes many interesting products, from ceremonial masks and sculptures to practical everyday items like wooden plates and outdoor lamps; for sure you have seen their designs decorating many hotels and restaurants in Southern Laos.

1. The Buddha stone carvers of Ban Don Khor 2. A woodcarver hard at work in Ban Nong Bueng 3. Phou Salao Buddha in Pakse 4. The 30-meter Buddha at Wat Chompet 5. Bird's-eye view of Pakse

2 RECOMMENDED ITINERARIES

Within Pakse: Ban Saphai – Don Kho – Ban Don Khor – Wat Chompet Easily accessible by tuk tuk, motorbike, or even a bicycle (if you’re feeling active). Ban Saphai and Don Kho are located 18km from Pakse so it’s recommended to go there ﬁrst and visit Ban Don Khor and Wat Chompet on your way back to the city center. Can be a half or full day activity. Pakse and surrounding area (Patunphone District): The Laos Wind Trace Art Museum – Ban Nong Bueng – Xe Pian trek/Phou Asa Mountain

Ban Saphai

g vin ea W

Don Kho Island

d an dd Bu

Wat Chompet

Sedone

Ban Don Khor

To ure Cult

a (d lter ry na se tiv as e on pa on th ly)

hist

ne do Se

r ve Ri

Better to rent a car for this itinerary because of the road condition going to the woodcarving village and farther afield to Xe Pian National Protected Area. To make this a half-day tour, book a short trek via Kingfisher Ecolodge or Ban Kiet Ngong to visit Xe Pian. Refill your water bottles or have a relaxing Italian lunch at Kingfisher while you’re at it. To make this a full day activity, swap Xe Pian for a tour of Phou Asa Mountain and be amazed at the view overlooking both the Xe Pian and Dong Houa Sao National Protected Areas.

r Tou

PAKSE

Art Museum

Wat Phou Salao W

Pho u Salao

Tour 0

3 km

MAY / JUNE 2019

INSIGHTS

FINDING HIS

WAY

How a self-trained cartographer made the best – and only – maps of southern Laos. TEXT BY JULIA CASE-LEVINE PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIA CASE-LEVINE / JASON ROLAN

ollowing the trails of mapmaker Nicholas Klein brings me deep into the hills above Pakse. We wade across thin streams, swat away hairy branches, and ﬁnally creep out of the dense forest to a wide opening. Nicholas surveys the view with approval. “And they say there is nothing to see in Pakse,” he says wryly, referring to dismissive reviews in guidebooks and travel blogs. Lonely Planet calls Pakse a “comfortable and convenient” launching point to better destinations. Other accounts are less generous: “there isn’t much to do in the city,” writes one report in Backpacker magazine. The sight before us of bushy mountains, red dirt road and sprawling woods below, suggests a nugget of what has been left out of write-ups. Nicholas has spent the last three years creating maps of destinations across Southern Laos, from the laid-back 4000 Islands to the waterfall-abundant Bolaven Plateau. Because of the dearth of tourism resources in Southern Laos, Nicholas’ are the best – and really, the only – maps of the region. His “M-Maps” can be purchased at Monument Books in Pakse, although photocopied versions, stripped of many detours and details, are ubiquitous, distributed by motorbike suppliers, hotels and guesthouses alike. Lately, he’s focused on developing walking routes and itineraries that take visitors off the four-lane streets in Pakse’s center to explore the trails locals use for hunting, collecting herbs and pleasure walking. Nicholas hopes these might help disperse foreigners so they don’t crowd particular destinations. Nicholas’ mapmaking started as a hobby, a way of documenting and sharing with others his favorite attractions in Pakse. When Nicholas arrived in 2003 – less than three decades after the country’s civil war – few other foreigners were traveling in the region. He was following a French girlfriend at the time, and although their romantic

"I FELT LIKE A PRIVATE INVESTIGATOR FINDING OUT THE NAMES OF TREES, FRUITS, FOODS, AND EVERYTHING ELSE."

MORE INFO Maps are available at Monument Books or on his website mmapssouthernlaos. wordpress.com left: A road not on the usual tourist path above: Mmaps pocket maps are essential to ﬁnd hidden spots

relationship was short-lived, Nicholas fell in love with Laos and decided to stay. He remembers staying up late to wander Pakse, kept up by his “hyperactive” mind, and his curiosity and wonder at new sights. “I felt like a private investigator ﬁnding out the names of trees, fruits, foods, and everything else,” he recalls. When Nicholas ran into other newcomers, he wanted to share what he’d seen, so he drew maps on scraps of paper to guide foreigners to local experiences and sights they might have otherwise missed. “I wanted people to discover all these lovely things, but there were no tools,” Nicholas explains. Relying on rather basic computer apps, he began creating digital maps, then a website, and eventually polished off a ﬁnal version to be professionally printed. A few years ago he opened a homestay, a lovely operation nestled on the Mekong, which he currently runs with his wife, Kiao and daughter, Marie. The three now use his maps to create itineraries and guide travel plans for visiting guests. MAY / JUNE 2019

INSIGHTS

1. Using Mmaps to get oﬀ the beaten path 2. Nicholas proudly shows oﬀ his handiwork 3. Mmaps also produces decorative wall maps

"I PRINT MAPS TO ANSWER QUESTIONS. I THINK ABOUT WHAT I’D WANT TO TELL SOMEONE ABOUT A PLACE AND TRANSLATE IT INTO A MAP."

As Nicholas readily offers up, he likes to chat. (A shaman once informed him he was a talkative bird in a past life.) Maps became an outlet for his love of chatter, inspired by the experience of conversation. “I print maps to answer questions,” Nicholas says. “I think about what I’d want to tell someone about a place and translate it into a map.” His maps include popular tourist haunts but offer alternative, local attractions like temples, bakeries, karaoke and live music halls, markets and vegetable gardens. They are also imaginative, punctuated with colorful observations and humor. Back in Nantes, France, Nicholas played a solo act as a rock musician. He sees creating maps as another use of his “creative spirit.” What do these maps provide when most have a powerful, accurate GPS in their pocket? Nicholas scoffs. The two can’t be compared, he insists. Indeed, it’s hard to imagine sterile Google Maps calling attention to a “surprising small bridge,” a “genuine Pakse street maze” or a “high-speed chicken crossing.” Pouring through feels like briefly inhabiting Nicholas’ world, with all its idiosyncratic attention to detail – demanding appreciation for a tall tree, or else commanding wonder for the thin, curving trails that carve into the woods around the city. The primary purpose of reading a map connects to the basic premise of taking a trip to see someplace new, in Nicholas’ words, “If you are a traveller, you should be curious and interested in opening your mind.”

"I WANTED PEOPLE TO DISCOVER ALL THESE LOVELY THINGS, BUT THERE WERE NO TOOLS."

42 CLOSE-UP

Frangipani

FLOWER OF LOVE AND DEATH TEXT BY BIBA VILAYLECK PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA & BIBA VILAYLECK

he frangipani flower is paradoxical: it is the emblem of the Lao nation but it comes from America, it is white and fragrant often offered to the pagoda but some say to be wary, it is the flower of death but also of love. Described in the West Indies by Charles Plumier, hence its scientiﬁc name Pluméria rubra, it was introduced in India, probably from the 16th century. It was then given the Sanskrit name of campa, which indicated a variety of magnolia, a very fragrant white-flowered tree. In Laotian this name became champa, and the Asian magnolia was named champi.

TREE OF CEMETERIES

TREE OF SPIRITS In southern Laos we sprinkle phi pop, which are the most dangerous of all wandering spirits, with water scented with frangipani flowers. In Paul Boulanger’s seminal work A History of French Laos published in 1930 we read that "On April 19, 1902, around 8 am, the police station of Savannakhet was surrounded by hordes of Laotians...who were walking, singing, and playing khene, convinced that the bullets from our rifles would change into frangipani flowers." While in Northern Laos “Plumeria rubra is used by religious leaders to protect the Lahu from evil spirits... The shaman may ask for the use of this plant in love affairs."

The frangipani, while it seems dead, regenerates itself. Without the least trace of leaf or flower it explodes in new foliage; thus, the tree planted in a cemetery gives hope to relatives of the deceased. In the traditional story Champa Si Ton ("The Four Frangipani Trees"), the trees are reborn from the bodies of four young princes killed by their wicked stepmother; they become invincible, immortal, and they roam about on the water. And because it is the tree of death and immortality the frangipani has a privileged link with the spirits.

MAY / JUNE 2019

CLOSE-UP

TREE OF POWER The image of frangipani has evolved in recent decades. It may be thought that the superstitious beliefs of the Thai have awakened ancient images related to legends. Somdi, a young Lao gardener, solves for me the enigma of frangipani. He tells me how his father, against the advice of his neighbors, had planted frangipani in his garden which may have resulted in the death of his brother. He thinks that people who have no power, authority, like him or me, should not plant this tree; only those who possess amnat (power) can plant it, that is to say the monks at the pagoda or the king in his palace. This perception of frangipani is consistent with that of the tree in general in Southeast Asia; the man addresses it, tries to tame it, but it remains, "a dark conscience, a primordial force". The poet speaks to him as Pierre Nginn does in Champa, flower of the Lao country but he knows he will not have answers to his many questions:

“O FLOWERS, PRECIOUS GIFT, REFUGE OF SYMBOLS, YOU WHO TALK TO GIRLS ABOUT LOVE, ABOUT BACK TO THE EXILE; YOU WHO LIVE IN THE PARABLES, YOU WHO PROVIDE THE WAT WITH HUMAN OBOLES, YOU WHO DIE AND ARE BORN EVERY DAY; SINCE WHEN DO YOU REIGN ON THIS ANCIENT LAND?” —PIERRE NGINN

TREE OF LOVE Frangipani is also the tree of love and even more, the tree of chaste loves. In the Lao literary tradition it is born of the body of two lovers: "From their ashes, grew a beautiful plant, the champa tree; the discreet and tender perfume of flowers evokes eternal regrets; the whiteness of the petals, the absence of the pistil and the stamens testify the chastity of their great love." The name of the frangipani, in Thai lan thom, was chosen as the title of a famous and dramatic soap opera that marked the spirits so much that another name was given to the Plumeria: lilawadi. But nothing to be done, the negative image of this tree continues and even influences its Lao neighbors; the frangipani has become in both countries the tree of unhappy love. A great place to learn more about frangipanis is at Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden in Luang Prabang (pha-tad-ke.com)

Paksong Glory (Black Tea) is made from the rare buds of 1500-year-old tea trees. The leaves create a full golden tea with sweet and smooth flavor. It helps regulate one’s temperature and helps detoxify the body. It is a rare ancient tea treasure. 150g (5g x 30 packs)

ປາກຊ່ອງຮຸງ່ ເຮືອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນຜະລິດຕະພ�ນທ�

巴松荣（红茶）选取1500年老挝古树茶上独一的

ຂະໜາດນ�ອຍເ��ອທຽບກ�ບຜະລິດຕະພ�ນອ�ນໆ,

小紧密，伴有饱满的金黄色的茶绒茶毫，汤色黄

ຄ�ດສ�ນຍອດຊາຈາກຕ�ນຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 1500 ປີ, ເ��ງມີ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ອຸດມ � ໄ�ດ�ວຍກ�ນຫອມ ແ�ະ ເ�ັນສີທອງ

ປະກາຍ, ນ�າຊາຈະເ�ັນສີທອງດ�ງທອງຄໍາຢູ�ໃ� ຈອກ, ມີລດ � ຊາດ�ານ ແ�ະ ນຸມ � ນວນ. ຊ�ວຍປ�ບອຸນ

ຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງຊ�ວຍຂ�ບໄ��ສານພິດ ໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ, ຮ�ກສາຄວາມສ�ມດຸນຂອງຮ�າງກາຍ

芽头制作而成，外形较其他古树红茶产品更细金状，杯中挂金边，入口甘爽，柔滑。有助于调节

体温，并促进热量和污物的排泄，维持内的生理平衡的功效。是难得的古树茶珍品。 150g（5gx30包）

ແ�ະ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ຫາຍາກ. 150g (5gx30ຊອງ)

Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the tips and leaves of one of the ancient 300 year old trees. When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. It can be brewed over 20 times without losing its flavor. This tea is good for enhancing blood circulation, warming the abdomen and stomach, and digestion. It helps those with weak stomachs and spleens.

ທັບທີມແດງປາກຊ່ອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນໄ��ເ�ືອກ

巴松红（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中一芽二

ທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດິບ, ນ�າຊາເ�ັນ

俗，清澈明亮，可连续冲泡20道以上，香气依旧

ເ�ົາຍອດຊາ 1ຍອດພ�ອມໃ�ຊາ1ໃ�ຂອງຕ�ນຊາ

ສີແ�ງທອງໜ�າປະທ�ບໃ�, ນ�າຊາມີຄວາມໃ�,

ສາມາດຊ� ງ ໄ�� າຍກ� ວ າ 20 ຄ� ງແ�� ລ� ດ ຊາດ ກ� ຍ� ງ ຄ� ງ ກ� ນຫອມໄ�� , ຊ� ວ ຍເ�� ມການໄ� ວຽນ

ຂອງເ�ື ອ ດໃ�ຮ� າ ງກາຍ, ສ� າ ງຄວາມອ� ບ ອຸ� ນ ,

ບໍາລຸງກະເ�າະ ແ�ະ ຊ�ວຍໃ�ການຍ�ອຍອາຫານ

叶的古树大叶为原料，汤色红橙金黄，艳而不

芳馥，有增强心脏血液循环，生热暖腹、温胃驱寒、消食开胃的功效，适宜脾胃虚弱、体质偏寒者长期饮用。

120g（5gx24包）

ເ�າະແ��ຄ�ນທ�ກະເ�າະ, ມ�າມອ�ອນເ�ຍ ແ�ະ ອຸນຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍຕ�າ. 120g (5gx24ຊອງ)

120g (5g x 24 packs)

Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the diphyllous and triphyllous buds of ancient 300 year old trees. When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. The taste is soft, mellow, and uniquely fragrant. 150g (150g x 1 bag)

ທັ ບ ທີ ມ ແດງປາກຊ່ ອ ງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ�� ນ ໄ��

巴松红旅游款（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中

ຂອງຍອດຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດບ ິ ,

汤色红橙金黄，艳而不俗，入口浓强鲜爽，滋味

ເ�ືອກເ�ົາ 1 ຍອດສອງໃ� ແ�ະ 1 ຍອດສາມໃ�

ນ�າຊາເ�ັນສີແ�ງທອງປະກາຍ ແ�ະ ໜ�າປະ ທ�ບໃ�, ມີລດ � ຊາດທ�ສ�ດໄ��ມ, ມີຄວາມນຸມ � ນວນ, ກ�ມກ�ອມ, ມີຄວາມຫອມທ�ເ�ັນເ�ກະລ�ກ. 150g (150gx1ຖົງ)

一芽二叶，一芽三叶的古树大叶为原料，性温，醇厚顺滑，生津速度快，香气融合度高，适宜体质偏寒者长期饮用。 150g（150gx1包）

The perfect encounter between primitive and pure

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FLAVORS

THE

hungry TUK TUK

SAFARI

One portion Lao cuisine mixed with one portion tuk tuk creates a recipe for culinary adventure. TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

ou have heard that Lao food is varied and delicious – spicy hot, sometimes steaming, and eaten with basketfuls of sticky rice – but where to track down the stuff not cooked for farang taste buds? I chose Lao foodie Ere, and his Hungry Tuk Tuk tour of Vientiane, to guide me on a taste adventure via some of the best eats in the city. I would also get a backstage pass to witness some food preparation in the city’s private homes, something I couldn’t do on my own. Ere was born in Vientiane, and has lived in Australia, so straddles the linguistic divide which is essential once off the tourist trail.

MORE INFO Tuk Tuk Safari operates a number of tours in and around Vientiane by tuk tuk. Visit tuktuksafari.com for a full list of their oﬀerings and to make reservations.

We were joined by two voracious American foodies and, eager to get over the start line, we were at our ﬁrst stop just past 9 am. Right away, I knew this would be my favourite stop. A local family grilled bamboo tubes over coals stuffed with sticky rice, coconut milk, and taro. Khao lam, traditionally served with barbecued chicken, has been made by this family on the banks of the Mekong River for the last 23 years. Warned not to eat breakfast before the tuk tuk safari by Ere this was a warm, fragrant start to the day and a fascinating window on to this home industry with the family machete-ing and stufﬁng the bamboo, turning over 80–90 tubes a day on the coals. Our second breakfast was not strictly Lao but we had no complaints. Ere took us to his favourite banh cuon stall. Vietnam’s banh cuon are tiny parcels of culinary heaven – rice paper wrapped around minced pork, wood-ear mushroom, and topped by fried shallots. We perched on street stalls while being served by a Vietnamese-Thai cook who’d been selling in downtown for more than 30 years. I would happily have stayed there all day but we had more to see and more to eat.

One of the city’s major wet markets is stacked with towers of banana, eggplant, palm hearts, lemon basil, morning glory, and more at one end, and ﬁsh thrashing about in metal bowls at the other. While we observed the market in motion we snacked on moreish sticky rice parcels stuffed with deep-fried garlic, mint, lemongrass, starfruit, and peanut. After the assault on our senses at the Houa Khoua Market, we headed for something more aromatic, something Ere says he survives on three times a day. In Vientiane, there’s been a surge of uber-cool coffee shops with baristas turning out Lao brew, but Ere ushered us to a busy back-to-basics side-street outlet where rotund women pounded ground coffee into enormous cloth ﬁlters, while pots boiled, and instruments steamed. I was handed a cup of coffee large enough to caffeinate an Olympic team; I was afraid to drain my cup, nervous I wouldn’t sleep for a week. Hungry for lunch, we pulled into an anonymous noodle restaurant, the kind of place where you know if it’s packed with locals it must be good. After comforting tapioca noodle chicken soup, khao piak,

left: A bowl of khao piak noodles 1. Mr. Ere with his tuk tuk (photo: Tuk Tuk Safari) 2. Ban cuon, a traditional Vietnamese snack 3. Houa Khoua fresh market 4. Preparing bamboo tubes 5. Khao larm cooked over the coals

staff offered us a takeaway bag of a much-loved Lao dessert – coconut dumplings – but we declined knowing there were only a couple more notches on the belt to expand, and still two more stops to make! Lao papaya salad has a fiery reputation so a tiny DIY papaya salad stall presented a chance – to fire up or mute. Ere egged us on to add a lot of chilli to the huge wooden pestle and mortar used by DIY customers. We threw in pa dek (Laos’ famous fish sauce), sugar, eggplant, garlic, and shrimp paste and a whole lot more but I couldn’t stomach swallowing the fire and eased off on the chilies. Our food safari ended where I hoped it would – with mid-afternoon booze: Beerlao overlooking the Mekong while munching on fried insects. These tiny crickets are packed full of protein but after our day-long seductive spread we could barely move another morsel to our lips. And, after devouring enough food for a week, we could barely move. A vote was taken – more beer and a plate of insects so we could watch the world go by on the river bank. MAY / JUNE 2019

FLAVORS

老挝美食与嘟嘟车碰撞的烹饪探索之旅。翻译编辑由尹航

摄影由 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

你

Houa Khoua市场--这个城市最主要的新鲜市场被香蕉，茄子，

棕榈心，柠檬罗勒，牵牛花等填满，另一端是鱼和肉。我们边体验着市场的繁忙与嘈杂，边品味了美味的糯米包，里面塞满了油炸

听说老挝的食物多种多样，味道鲜美 ‒ 辛辣，有时很热，配上一篮子糯米 ‒ 但在哪里可以找到不是专门为外国游客烹制的食物呢？

我选择了一位老挝美食专家Ere先生和他提供的“饿

嘟嘟”万象味蕾探索之旅。我也在当地人的家里体验烹饪，这是我自己无法做到的。Ere出生于万象，在澳大利

欲了解更多信息

“嘟嘟旅行”运营着几项不同的万象及周边游。

访问tuktuksafari.com获取产品的完整列表并预订吧。

大蒜，薄荷，柠檬草，杨桃和花生。

这一轮的感官攻击之后，我们前往更芳香的地方，Ere说他每

天要光顾这里三次才能存活下来。在万象，有一大批有风格的咖馆店，咖啡师正在冲煮老挝咖啡。Ere把我们带到了一家简单的店

面，在一条小街上，一个风韵的女人将咖啡粉放入巨大的布料过滤器煮沸后过滤萃取，然后用大杯呈上，我没有完全喝完，担心一周都不用睡觉啦。

还没到午餐我们已经饥肠辘辘了，我们随便走进了一家当地

亚旅居过，因此可以帮助我们和当地人翻译沟通。

人光顾的面店，所以想也知道味道一定很棒啦。在饱餐一碗暖暖的

上烘烤竹筒，竹筒内填满了糯米，椰奶和芋头，这种叫

我们婉拒了，因为还有两个美食点在等着我们！

上午9点我们开始了第一站。一家当地人在炭火

做“KHAO LAM”的主餐配上烤鸡肉成为了这家人在湄

鸡汤面，khao piak之后，工作人员想要送给我们一份椰饺，但是老挝木瓜沙拉的声誉很高，所以一个小小的自助木瓜沙拉摊

公河畔坚持了23年的营生，每天可以生产超过80-90管

位提供了一个自己调制风味的机会。 Ere鼓动我们多放辣椒，我们

便以此作为这温暖，芬芳的开始，我们的第二顿早餐不是

木杵和砂浆中混合。但我害怕太辣，所以我没有放很多辣椒。

竹筒饭。Ere提醒我们不要在“嘟嘟狩猎”之前吃早餐以

完全的老式，但我们完全没有抱怨。他带我们来到了他

将padek（老挝着名的鱼酱），糖，茄子，大蒜和虾酱等等放入巨大我们的美食之旅即将结束，终点站正符合我的口味--午后饮

最喜欢的banh cuon小吃。越南的banh cuon是一个迷

酒：喝着Beerlao（老挝啤酒））俯瞰湄公河，同时配上油炸昆虫。

蘑菇，点缀着炸青葱。我们坐在这个经营了三十多年的

之内几乎摄取了足够一周的食物，几乎动弹不得。我们决定享受

你的小包，是天堂的味道--- 米皮儿包裹着猪肉末，木耳街边小摊，享受着这位泰国越南混血主厨的美食，我想我

很乐意整天呆在那里，但我们还有更多的东西需要发掘。

这些小蟋蟀含有丰富的蛋白质，但是我们已经吃不下了。在一天

下午的悠闲时光 - 更多的啤酒和一盘昆虫，我们就这样在湄公河畔, 看着整个世界从我们指尖流过。

左：一家小贩正在制作美味的米粉面

1. 一个当地家庭正在蒸竹

筒糯米饭

2. 竹筒饭 3. 小卷粉, 一种越南小吃 4. 一个小贩正倾倒制作小卷粉的蒸汽面糊

Magic Lao Carpets Handicrafts HAND KNOTTED UNIQUE

SILK CARPETS & TEXTILES YOUR CHOICE OF COLORS, DESIGN & SIZES Open for visitors: Mon–Sat 9:00–17:00 Ban Nongdouang Tai, Sikhottabong District, Vientiane

Tel: (856 21) 21 68 54, (856 20) 555 181 89 info@magiclaocarpets.com | www.magiclaocarpets.com

For taxi: ຖະໜົນT2 ບ້ານໜອງດ້ວງໄຕ້, ຮ່ອມ 1 ຫຼື ທາງໄປຮ້ານຫຼຽນໄຊໂລຫະກິດ ເຂົ້າຮ່ອມ 2 ບ້ານສີຫອມ

Leaf by leaf, Step by step Vegetables. Starches. Dairy. Legumes. Fruits. Fats. Carbohydrates. Protein. Vitamins. Confused already? If you are, you are much like us when we hear we need to eat “proper food” to stay and be healthy. What to choose, and why? What does “proper” mean, really? What will happen to our health if we do not eat “properly”? Answers to these questions come with acquiring knowledge about nutrition. In Laos, heart attack rates are increasing due to high blood pressure and cholesterol, and many people are becoming diabetic and obese. In addition, the stunting rate among children under ﬁve years remains the highest in the AsiaPaciﬁc region with 35.6 percent. The rate of anaemia – a lack of red blood cells – in women is 40 percent.

Women learn about the six food groups and how to vary their diets to include all of them in their family’s daily meals. But the best education about how to eat proper food is nothing without access to it. That’s why the project also disburses small grants for household gardens and advises women how to grow their own vegetables to ensure they have fresh produce within reach when they cook a meal. This way, whole families learn that a balanced diet does not depend on how much money we have in our pockets. In fact, the healthiest options are often the cheaper ones.

All of these problems can be prevented and overcome with a healthy and “proper” diet. Since health issues lead to lower productivity, burdening families and the wider society, the Government of Lao PDR and many development partners are investing in educating people about their nutrition. Together with the government, the World Food Programme (WFP) is running the Farmer Nutrition Project, with one of its aims being to teach women how to feed their families, particularly focusing on pregnant women and children under two years of age. The project is all about changing habits and behaviors, countering food and feeding taboos such as restricting fruit and vegetable intake for pregnant women.

In addition to sharing information about healthy nutrition, WFP works with the United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA) in Laos to share information with young girls about teenage pregnancy and how it aﬀects their bodies and their future. Today, one in ten girls in Laos becomes pregnant before turning 17. In their advocacy, the team uses a young girl called Noi to represent the over 700,000 adolescent girls in Laos aged 10-19. The aim of their messaging is that girls can become empowered and get pregnant by choice, not chance.

SAVING LIVES CHANGING LIVES

Healthy families start with healthy mothers and kids. Leaf by leaf and step by step, mothers in Laos will bring up a strong and resilient new generation.

�ທື່ອລະຂ�ນ, �ທື່ອລະຕອນ ນັ້ ນ ແມ່ ນເຫດຜົ ນທີ່ ໂຄງການໄດ້ ໃຫ້ ທຶ ນ ຊ່ ວຍເຫຼື ອຂະຫນາດນ້ ອຍແກ່ ກຸ່ມແມ່ຍິງເປົ້ າໝາຍໂຄງການດັ່ງກ່າວໄດ້ໃຫ້ຄໍາແນະນໍາແກ່ແມ່ຍິງກ່ຽວກັບ ຄວາມຮູ້ດານໂພຊະນາການ ແລະ ເຕັກນິກການປູກຜັ ກເພື່ ອຮັບປະກັນວາ່ ້ ພວກເຂົາມີແຫຼ່ງອາຫານ ແລະ ວັດຖຸ ດິບທີ່ສົດເຂົ້າໃນການປຸງແຕ່ງອາຫານ. ໂດຍວິທີນ້,ີ ຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ສະມາຊິກພາຍໃນຄອບຄົວໄດ້ຮຽນຮູ້ນໍາກັນວາອາຫານ ່ ທີ່ມີໂພຊະນາການ ແລະ ເໝາະສົມບໍ່ມີລາຄາແພງສະເໝີໄປ. ຄວາມເປັ ນຈິງ ແລວ, ນຈຳນວນຫຼາຍ. ້ ການມີສຸຂະພາບທີ່ດີແມນບໍ ່ ່ຈຳເປັ ນຕອງໃຊ ້ ້ຈາຍເງີ ່ ນອກຈາກການແລກປ່ ຽນຂໍ້ ມູ ນ ກ່ ຽວກັ ບ ໂພຊະນາການແລ້ ວ, ອົ ງ ການ ອາຫານໂລກ(WFP) ໄດ້ເຮັດວຽກຮ່ວມກັບກອງທຶ ນປະຊາກອນແຫ່ງສະ ຫະປະຊາຊາດ(UNFPA) ໃນລາວເພື່ ອແລກປ່ຽນຂໍ້ມູນກັບເດັກຍິງໄວໜມ ຸ່ ກ່ຽວກັບການຖືພາຕອນອາຍຸນອຍມັ ນມີຜົນກະທົບຕໍ່ຮ່າງກາຍ ແລະ ອະນາ ້ ຄົດຂອງພວກເຂົາແນວໃດ. ຜັ ກ , ແປ້ ງ, ນົ ມ , ຖົ່ ວ , ໝາກໄມ້ , ໄຂມັ ນ , ໝວດອາຫານຫຼັ ກ, ໂປຕີ ນ , ວິຕາມິນ. ທ່ານມີຄວາມສັບສົນແລ້ວແມ່ນບໍ່? ຖ້າທ່ານມີ, ທ່ານກໍ່ຄືກັບພວກ ເຮົາເມື່ອໄດ້ຍິນຄໍາວາພວກເຮົ າຈໍາເປັ ນຕ້ອງກິນ“ອາຫານທີ່ເໝາະສົມ” ເພື່ ອ ່ ດໍາລົງຊີ ວິດແລະມີສຸຂະພາບທີ່ ດີ. ອາຫານທີ່ ຄວນຈະເລືອກກິນແລະເປັ ນ ຫຍັງຈຶງ່ ກິນ? ຄໍາວາ“ເໝ າະສົມ” ແມນໝ າຍຄວາມວາແນວໃດ? ຈະມີຫຍັງ ່ ່ ່ ເກີດຂຶ້ນກັບສຸຂະພາບຂອງພວກເຮົາ, ຖ້າພວກເຮົາບໍ່ກິນ “ຢ່າງຖືກຕ້ອງ”? ຄໍາຕອບກຽວກັ ບຄໍາຖາມເຫຼົ່ານີມ ້ າພ້ອມກັບຄວາມຮູກ ບໂພຊະນາການ. ່ ້ ຽວກັ ່ ໃນສປປລາວ, ອັດຕາການຕິດເຊື້ອຫົ ວໃຈວາຍມີທ່າອຽງເພີ ່ ມຂຶນ ້ ເນື່ອງຈາກ ່ ຄວາມດັນໃນກະແສເລືອດສູງ ແລະ ໄຂມັນສ່ວນເກີນໃນຮ່າງກາຍ. ຫຼາຍຄົນ ກາຍເປັ ນໂລກເບົາຫວານ ແລະ ເປັ ນໂລກອ້ວນ. ນອກຈາກນັນ ້ , ອັດຕາການ ຂາດສານອາຫານໃນບັນດາເດັກນອຍທີ ່ ມີອາຍຸຕ່າກວາ່ 5 ປີຍັງຢູ່ໃນລະດັບ ້ ສູງທີ່ສຸດໃນພາກພື້ ນອາຊີປາຊີຟິກອີກດວຍເຊິ ່ງກວມເອົາ 35,6 ເປີເຊັນ. ້ ອັດຕາຂອງພະຍາດເລືອດຈາງ, ການຂາດແຄນເມັດເລືອດແດງໃນແມ່ຍິງ ແມ່ນກວມເອົາ 40 ເປີເຊັນ.

ປັ ດຈຸບນ ັ ນີ້, ໜງຶ່ ໃນສິບເດັກຍິງໃນລາວຖືພາກອນອາຍຸ 17 ປີ. ໃນການສະໜັບ ່ ສະໜູນເລື່ອງນີ້, ທີມງານໄດ້ໃຊ້ເດັກຍິງທີ່ຊ່ ືວ່ານ້ອຍເພື່ ອເປັ ນຕົວແທນເດັກ ຍິງໄວລຸນກວ າ່ 700.000 ຄົນໃນລາວເຊິງ່ ຢູ່ໃນເກນອາຍຸລະຫວາງ ້ ່ 10-19 ປີ. ຈຸດປະສົງໃນການສື່ສານຂອງພວກເຂົາແມນເພື ່ ່ ອປູກຈິດສໍານຶກ ແລະ ຜັກດັນ ໃຫ້ເດັກຍິງເຂົ້າໃຈ ແລະ ສາມາດຕັດສິນໃຈເອງໄດວ ພາກອນອາຍຸ ຫື ຼບໍ່. ້ າຈະຖື ່ ່ ຄອບຄົວທີ່ມສ ີ ຂ ຸ ະພາບດີແມນເລີ ້ , ່ ່ມຈາກແມ ່ ແລະ ລູກທີ່ແຂງແຮງ. ເທື່ອລະຂັນ ເທື່ອລະຕອນ, ໃນອານາຄົດແມຍິ ນລຸນໃໝ ທີ ່ ງໃນປະເທດລາວຈະລຽງຄົ ້ ້ ່ ່ ມີສຸ ຂະພາບທີ່ດີ, ແຂງແຮງ. ສາມາດນຳພາ ແລະ ພັ ດທະນາປະເທດຊາດໃຫ້ຈະ ເລີນຮຸ່ງເຮືອງໄດ້.

ບັນຫາທັງໝົດເຫຼົ່ານີ້ແມ່ນສາມາດປ້ອງກັນ ແລະ ຮັກສາໄດ້ດ້ວຍການກິນ ອາຫານທີ່ດີຕໍ່ສຸຂະພາບ ແລະ ກິນຢ່າງ “ເໝາະສົມ”. ເນື່ອງຈາກບັນຫາສຸຂະພາບແມ່ນນໍາໄປສູ່ການເຮັດໃຫ້ການຜະລິດໜ້ອຍ ລົງ, ເປັ ນພາລະຂອງຄອບຄົວ ແລະ ສັງຄົມໃນວົງກວາງຕໍ ່ ບ ັ ບັນຫາດັງ່ ກາວ, ້ ກ ່ ລັດຖະບານຂອງສປປ ລາວ ແລະ ຄູຮ ່ ່ວມພັດທະນາກໍາລັງລົງທຶນໃສໃນວຽກ ່ ງານປະຊາສຶ ກ ສາເພື່ ອ ໃຫ້ ຄວາມຮູ້ ແກ່ ປະຊາຊົ ນ ກ່ ຽວກັ ບ ໂພຊະນາການ ຂອງເຂົາເຈົາ້ . ອົງການອາຫານໂລກຮ່ວມກັບລັດຖະບານລາວກໍາລັງດໍໍາເນີນການຈັດຕັ້ງ ປະຕິບັດໂຄງການໂພຊະນາການເພື່ ອຊາວກະສິກອນ, ໂດຍການໃຫ້ຄວາມ ຮູ້ແກ່ບັ ນດາແມ່ຍິ ງກ່ຽວກັບວິທີການລ້ຽງດູຄອບຄົວ, ໂດຍສະເພາະແມ່ນ ແນໃສແມຍິ ູ ນອຍທີ ່ ມີອາຍຸຕ່າກວາສອງປີ . ຫົ ວໃຈ ່ ງທີ່ກໍາລັງຖືພາ ແລະ ມີລກ ້ ່ ຫຼັ ກຂອງໂຄງການແມ່ ນເນັ້ ນ ໃສ່ ການປ່ ຽນແປງນິ ໄ ສແລະພຶ ດ ຕິ ກໍ າ ເພື່ ອ ລົບລ້າງຄວາມເຊື່ອກ່ຽວກັບການຂະລໍາອາຫານເຊັ່ນ: ຂະລໍາການກິນໝາກ ໄມແລະຜັ ກສໍາລັບແມຍິ ້ ່ ງຖືພາເຫຼົ່ານີ້ເປັ ນຕົ້ນ. ນອກນີ້, ແມຍິ ່ ງຍັງໄດຮຽນຮູ ້ ້ ກ່ຽວກັບອາຫານ 6 ໝວດແລະວິທີການປຸງແຕ່ງອາຫານແບບຫຼາກຫຼາຍ ເພື່ ອປະກອບເຂົ້າໃນທຸກໆຄາບອາຫານພາຍໃນຄອບຄົວຂອງພວກເຂົາອີກ ດ້ວຍ. ແຕ່ ການຮຽນຮູ້ ທີ່ ດີ ທ່ ີ ສຸ ດ ກ່ ຽວກັ ບ ວິທີ ກ ານກິ ນ ອາຫານທີ່ ເ ຫມາະສົ ມ ບໍ່ ມີ ຄວາມໝາຍຫຍັ ງ ຖ້າຫາກພວກເຂົ າ ບໍ່ ສ າມາດຈະເຂົ້ າ ເຖິ ງ ແຫຼ່ ງອາຫານ ເຫຼົ່ານັນ ້ ໄດ້.

SAVING LIVES CHANGING LIVES

CULTURE

PREPARING FOR

LIFTOFF

THE LAO ROCKET FESTIVAL TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

ne of the most uniquely Lao holidays is the Rocket Festival. Taking place in the hottest time of year, just before the rice planting season, locals create rockets, known as bang fai, which are launched into the sky. To get a closer look, my friend Phou invited me to his village north of Vientiane to witness this spectacle. Arriving a bit early to the event, speakers were already blaring the latest molam and loukthong country music hits. Over glasses of Beerlao at his house, I asked Phou more about this festival. He says that groups of friends get together and use thick pieces of bamboo or PVC pipe as the rocket fuselage. He motioned to a long rocket that he and his friends had made, proudly displayed on the porch. The pipe was packed with a homemade mix of gunpowder and other secret ingredients, and ﬁtted with a fuse. Phou mentioned that Lao people believe ﬁring these rockets into the air will alert the gods to send rain, thus granting a plentiful harvest.

left: Rockets are carefully mounted before launching above: A villager carries his rocket through a muddy ﬁeld

Suddenly a parade of outlandishly dressed villagers, who must have been communing with a different kind of spirit all morning, danced past with drums and an electrified lute, called a phin. Along with them was the first bang fai of the day, mounted on a cart, heading for a field just outside the village. Phou, his friends and I grabbed our rocket and carried it along, dancing and drinking beer in the procession. At the field, Phou had me stand back from the bamboo launch apparatus. It seems that sometimes the rockets actually explode without taking off, causing injuries. There was a muddy pond nearby to help soothe any burn wounds. Another rule he mentioned – if the rocket fails to lift off, or explodes in the air, then the villagers drag the rocket’s builders through the mud as a penalty! Phou’s friends mounted the rocket onto the launch. I held my breath as the fuse was lit and nothing happened for several seconds. I feared we would all be swimming in the mud soon. Then, finally, it shot up straight into the air making a long graceful arc through the sky amid cheers from the entire village. So we all drank and danced a bit more in the fields as the next rocket was prepared for takeoff. MAY / JUNE 2019

CULTURE

翻译编辑由 NAMPHERNG ZHAO

摄影由 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

火

箭节作为老挝众多独特节日之一，一般

突然一群打扮奇特的村民（他们一定是整个早上在与各种神

在每年最热时，农忙耕种前举办，当地人

灵沟通的人们），拿着鼓，拿着乐器 Phin 的载歌载舞的出现了，

空中发射。为了离近一点观察，我的朋友

正朝着村外面的田野出发。阿蒲，他的朋友们还有我抓着我们的

们会自制一种被称作 Bang fai 的火箭向

阿蒲特意邀请我到万象北边的村庄观赏这一盛会。

提前早到会场时，喇叭里已经播放着最新的 molam

跟随在他们身后的是今天的第一只火箭，被安置在一辆卡车上，火箭，跟着游行队伍边喝边跳。

在田野上，阿蒲让我站在火箭发射装置后，以防火箭未能成

和 loukthong 的乡村音乐。在阿蒲家喝了几杯老挝啤酒

功发射到空中却爆炸而造成伤害，附近还有一个泥塘用于缓解烧

们一群朋友聚在一块，用厚竹子或PVC管做火箭筒。他

中爆炸，村民们将会把火箭制作者拖到泥塘里作为惩罚!

后，我问了阿蒲一些关于火箭节的信息。他告诉我说: 他自豪地展示了门廊处放置的长长的火箭就是他和朋友们

伤。这里还有另外一条规矩，若是谁的火箭发射失败或无法在空阿蒲的朋友们把火箭安置在发射台，随着保险一拔，我屏住呼

一起制作完成的。火箭筒管里装满了自制的火药和其他

吸，但是等了好几秒都没有反应。我还担心我们要在泥浆里游泳

点燃这些火箭发射到天空后，能够祈求神灵降雨从而带

中呈现出长长的优美弧线。我们都在田野中喝酒跳舞，而此时下

秘密配料，并且配有保险丝。阿蒲提及到老挝人民相信来丰收。

了。所幸最后，它直直射向空中，在整个村庄的欢呼声中，在天空一个火箭正在准备发。

left page: A rocket makes a beautiful arc over Vang Vieng 1. After his rocket exploded in the air, the builder is dunked in the mud 2. The drunken procession arrives at the ﬁeld 3. A rocket is launched

1 左：一个火箭在万荣上空划出美丽弧线

1. 火箭在空中爆破后，发射火箭的

人却在泥潭里坐了个大屁墩

2. 微醉的队伍抵达现场 3. 火箭发射

STAY

HERITAGE STAY– AVANI+ LUANG PRABANG A handsome contemporary retreat in the heart of heritage Luang Prabang. TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY AVANI+ LUANG PRABANG GETTING THERE Lao Airlines ﬂies daily to Luang Prabang from Bangkok, Vientiane, Hanoi, Siem Reap, and Chiang Mai. For reservations: avanihotels.com/en/ luang-prabang

nce the site of a French garrison, Avani+’s grand footprint straddles a major town corner facing the night market, and tourism ofﬁce, and is a three-minute stroll to the banks of the Mekong River. Guests staying at the Avani+ really couldn’t hope for a better location with all of Luang Prabang’s beautiful highlights within walking distance, and some of its best bars and restaurants a parasol’s throw away. In keeping with its zen-like atmosphere – enhanced by a palette of dove grey, taupe, and milk white – the heart of the hotel is an

inner sanctum with rooms focused around a central court featuring the pool, palms, and gardens which cocoon rooms, protecting them from the noise and traffic of the city. Choice rooms are on the first floor with louvred shutters and balconies overlooking the pool, although ground floor garden rooms – with patio sun loungers – offer complete privacy. The Avani+’s 53 open-plan rooms evoke calm with their broad brush of neutral tones: white linens, light wood furniture, teak floors, plus his and her sinks and separate rain showers and toilet cubicles. Constantly refilled jars of mini cookies and banana chips are a thoughtful touch for a snack after night market browsing for handicrafts and lanterns. Turn-down gifts are thoughtful, too: tiny bags of rice for your return home, an animal figure woven from fiber – a bookmark, perhaps, or ornament.

left: The heritage facade of Avani+ Luang Prabang 1. Drinks on the balcony of Main Street restaurant 2. Unique decor of the upper mezzanine 3. Guest rooms at Avani+ have all the modern conveniences 4. The pool invites a swim

Speaking of books, the Avani+’s library area, although not cosy itself as a place to sit, has an impressive collection of Lao history books and tomes on the French period in Indochina. The library is only a few steps from the pool (one of only a few central hotels with this feature), pluck a few pages from the shelves for your sun lounger, and soak up the tropical heat under the parasols and palms while a waiter takes orders for poolside drinks. Sun worshippers, it’s worth noting, you’ll need to set aside mornings as by late afternoon the sun’s rays have moved on. Main Street Bar and Grill are set in a building facing a main road. Eating breakfast or lunch at alfresco tables on the roadside terrace is a tad noisy; cocktails on the upstairs terrace of the bar by night is more atmospheric. Avani+’s breakfast, taken in a sheltered courtyard surrounded by the

hotel’s own herb terrace, or in the Main Street restaurant itself is more enjoyable. We liked the fact that the huge breakfast buffet spread, plus a la carte choices, features dishes firmly rooted in Laos: a thoroughly warming traditional hot porridge in hot local buffalo milk with dried apricot and almond was a perfect wake-up for a winter’s morning. Lunch and evening menus appeal to those looking for easy bites with a nod to local flavors: Mekong fish burger with turmeric butter, buffalo burger with fries, or an unfiltered introduction to local cuisine – the local spicy papaya salad – a fiery hit! Not enough downtime? Book into the spa, and enjoy the weekly Sunday yoga classes in the hotel’s dedicated pavilion.

MAY / JUNE 2019

STAY

່ ຜ່ ອນກາຍຄາຍໃຈທີ

ອາວານີ +

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

ສະຖານທີ່ທີ່ທ ່ານຈະໄດ້ພບ ົ ທຸກຄວາມງາມຂອງ ຫລວງພະບາງພຽງແຕ່ໜ່ ງກ້ ຶ າວຍ່າງ. ແປ ແລະ ຮຽບຮຽງໂດຍ ວິໄລສອນ ເຫລື້ອງ ຮູບໂດຍ ອາວານີ + ຫລວງພະບາງ

ສ

ະຖານທ�ແ��ງນ�ເ�ີຍເ�ັນສຳນ�ກງານຣາຊະ ການຂອງຝຣ�ງໃ�ສະໄ�ກ�ອນ, ຈ�ນມາ ຮອດປະຈຸບ�ນ, ສະຖານທ�ແ��ງນ�ໄ��ຖືກ ປ�ຽນຜ�ານ, ປ�ບປຸງ, ບູລະນະຈ�ນກາຍເ�ັນ ໂ�ງແ�ມ ອາວານີ+ �ວງພະບາງໃ�ຕອນນ�. ໂ�ງແ�ມ ແ�� ງ ນ� ຕ� ງຢູ� ຫ� ວ ມຸ ມ ຂອງຕ� ວ ເ�ື ອ ງ� ວງພະບາງ, ຢູ�ກ�ງກ�ນຂ�າມກ�ບຕະ�າດກາງຄືນ ແ�ະ ຫ�ອງການ ທ�ອງທ�ຽວ�ວງ ພະ ບາງ, ໃ��ເ�ລາປະມານ3 ນາທີ ໄ�ຫາແ�ມແ��ນ�າຂອງ. ແ�ກທ�ມາພ�ກຢູ�ໂ�ງແ�ມ ອາ ວາ ນີ + ຈະມີຄວາມສຸກທ�ໄ��ພ�ກຢູ�ໃ�ກາງເ�ືອງ �ວງພະບາງ ເ��ງເ�ັນຈຸດເ��ນທ�ສວຍງາມຂອງແ�ວງ �ວງພະບາງ ທ�ສາມາດຍ�າງເ�າະໄ�� ພ�ອມທ�ງມີບາຣ� ແ�ະ ຮ�ານອາຫານທ�ດີທສຸ � ດຢູ�ໃ��ໆ ກ�ບໂ�ງແ�ມ.

ວິທີການເດີນທາງ ທ�ານສາມາດເ�ີນທາງດ�ວຍ ສາຍການບິນລາວ ເ��ງມີ ຖ�ຽວບິນຈາກບາງກອກ, ນະຄອນ�ວງວຽງຈ�ນ, ຮ�າໂ��ຍ, ສຽມຣຽບ ແ�ະ ຊຽງໃ�� ໄ��ວງ ພະບາງທຸກມ�. ສອບຖາມຈອງທ�ພ�ກໄ�� ທ�ເ�ັບໄ��: avanihotels.com/en/ luang-prabang

ໂ�ງແ�ມດ�ງກ�າວຕ�ບແ��ງແ�ບສະ ໄ�ລ� ຄລາ ສ ສິກ ຮ�ວມ ສະ ໄ� ດ�ວຍ ໂ�ນສີເ�ົາອ�ອນ, ສີນ�າຕານມ�ນ ແ�ະ ສີຂາວ ງາຊ�າງ – ຈຸດເ��ນຂອງໂ�ງແ�ມແ��ງນ� ກໍຄືຜູ�ມາພ�ກຈະໄ�� ຄວາມຮູ� ສຶ ກ ທ� ຜ� ອ ນຄາຍ,ຫ� ອ ງພ� ກ ທຸ ກ ຫ� ອ ງແ�� ນ ອ� ອ ມ ຮອບ ສະລອຍນ�າທ�ຢູ�ໃ�ກາງໂ�ງແ�ມ, ມີຕນປາມ � ແ�ະ ສວນດອກ ໄ��ທ�ຊ�ວຍໃ��ບ�ນຍາກາດສ�ດຊ�ນ ເ��ງການ ຕ�ບ ແ��ງ ດ�ງ ກ�າວ ຈະຊ�ວຍເ�ັບສຽງການສ�ນຈອນຕາມຖະໜ�ນຫ�ນທາງໃ�ຕ�ວເ�ືອງ ໄ��ດີ. ຫ�ອງພ�ກທ�ງໝ�ດ 53 ຫ�ອງຂອງອາວານີ + ມີບ�ນຍາກາດ ທ�ຮຽບງ�າຍດ�ວຍໂ�ນສີທຳມະຊາດເ��ນ: ສີລນ ີ ນ ິ ຂາວ, ຕ�ບແ��ງ ດ�ວຍເ�ີນີເ�ີໄ��, ພ�ນໄ��ສ�ກ, ບວກກ�ບ ມີອ�າງລ�າງ��າ, ຫ�ອງ ອາບນ� າ ແ�ະ ຫ� ອ ງນ� າ ແ�ບແ�ກ ທ� ເ�ັ ດ ໃ�� ທ� າ ນ ຮູ� ສຶ ກ ສະດວກສະບາຍ. ໂ�ງແ�ມແ��ງນ�ຍ�ງໄ��ຈ�ດອາຫານວ�າງໄ�� ເ�ືອບຕະ�ອດເ�ລາເ��ນ ຄຸກກ� ແ�ະ ກ�ວຍຈືນ ເ��ອບໍລິການ ແ�ກ �ງ� ຈາກທ�ແ�ກອິດເ��ອຍຈາກການໄ�ເ�າະຕະ�າດ ກາງ ຄື ນ ເ�� ອຫາຊ� ເ�� ອງຫ� ດ ຖະກຳ ແ�ະ ຂອງຕ� ອ ນຂອງ ຝາກອີກດ�ວຍ. ຖ�າທ�ານຍ�ງບ�ທ�ນຮູ�ສກ ຶ ຜ�ອນຄາຍພໍ, ທ�ານຍ�ງສາມາດຈອງ ຫ�ອງສະປາ ແ�ະ ມ�ວນຊ�ນໄ�ກ�ບການຮຽນໂ�ຄະໃ�ວ�ນອາທິດ ທ�ທາງໂ�ງແ�ມໄ��ຈ�ດໄ��ອີກດ�ວຍ.

世界遗产内的住宿：阿瓦尼+ 琅勃拉邦翻译编辑由尹航

阿瓦尼+ 酒店由曾经的法国驻军地改造，坐落于正对夜市和旅游中心的主城镇角落，距离湄公河只有 3分钟的步行路程。入住阿瓦尼+ 酒店的客人可以

尽享优越的中心地理位置，步行即可抵达琅勃拉邦

的所有美丽景点，附近还有城内最棒的酒吧和餐厅。以鸽灰色，灰褐色和乳白色装饰 - 酒店的中心拥有

轻松的氛围，客房围绕着一个中央庭院，庭院内布置了游泳池，棕榈树和花园，以保护客房免受城市噪音和交通的影响。

阿瓦尼+ 酒店的53间客房采用中性色调营造出宁静

的氛围：白色床单，浅色木制家具，柚木地板，男女

分用水槽以及独立的花洒淋浴和厕所隔间。酒店会不断补充小吃罐装内的迷你饼干和香蕉片，以便客人参观手工艺品和纪念品的夜市后的能量补充。

仍然不够放松？预订水疗中心，并在酒店的专用凉亭享受每周一次的周日瑜伽课程。到达目的地

老挝航空公司每天有航班分别从曼谷，万象，河内，暹粒和清迈飞达琅勃拉邦。预订

avanihotels.com/en/luang-prabang

ດ້ານຊ້າຍ: ສະລອຍນ�າ ຂອງໂ�ງແ�ມອາວານີ + ທ�ອ�ອມຮອບດ�ວຍຫ�ອງພ�ກ ແ�ະ ຕ�ນໄ�� 1. ບ�ອນຮ�ບແ�ກຂອງໂ�ງແ�ມ 2. ຫ�ອງພ�ກຂອງອາວານີ + 3. ມຸມຮ�ບປະທານ ອາຫານທ�ລະບຽງ 4. �ຸມພ�ກຜ�ອນດ�ານນອກ

MAY / JUNE 2019

on the

air

UPDATES

LAO AIRLINES NEWS | TIMETABLES | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES

LAO AIRLINES NEWS

LAO AIRLINES AND JOINT DEVELOPMENT BANK LAUNCH CHAMPA SUPER GOLD CARD

There is now greater convenience for customers that use the services of Lao Airlines and Joint Development Bank (JDB), as both companies have jointly released the JDB CHAMPA SUPER GOLD car, a credit card with special beneﬁts bestowed upon users from Joint Development Bank, Lao Airline, VISA, and Vientiane Insurance. The visa card is a credit card linked to a collateral deposit account USD 2,000 or above, and may use 90% of the credit limit to purchase goods and services at retailers that display the VISA logo. The card can also be used to make online purchases, or to withdraw cash from an ATM or at a bank where the VISA logo is displayed. The card may also be used as a membership card with Lao Airlines to collect frequent flyer points which can be exchanged for free flights or special privleges, such as use of the VIP airport lounge after flying only two times with Lao Airlines, as well as special discounts at retailers around the world where the VISA logo is displayed, or that are in cooperation with JDB. The card may be tracked or monitored by a mobile phone application called JDB Yes. Finally, an emergency fund of 50,000,000 kip will be made available to cardholders when traveling overseas.

ທະນາຄານຮ່ ວມພັດທະນາ ຮ່ ວມກັ ບ ລັ ດວິ ສາຫະກິ ດ ການບິນລາວ ອອກບັດ JDB CHAMPA SUPER GOLD

ເ��ອໃ��ລກ ູ ຄ�າທ�ນໍາໃ��ການບໍລກ ິ ານຂອງລ�ດວິສະຫາກິດການບິນລາວ ແ�ະ ທະນາຄານຮ�ວມພ�ດທະນາ ມີຄວາມສະດວກສະບາຍຍ�ງຂ�ນ, ທະນາຄານຮ�ວມພ�ດທະນາ ຈ�ງໄ��ຮ�ວມກ�ນກ�ບ ລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດ ການບິນລາວ ອອກຜະລິດຕະພ�ນບ�ດ JDB CHAMPA SUPER GOLD ເ��ງເ�ັນບ�ດເ�ດິດທ� ມີສິດທິປະໂ�ດ ແ�ະ ການບໍລິການເ�ີມທ��າກ�າຍ ຈາກ 4 ພາກສ�ວນຮ�ວມມືກ�ນລະ��າງ ທະນາຄານຮ�ວມພ�ດທະນາ, ລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດ ການບິນລາວ,VISA ແ�ະ ບໍລິສ�ດ ວຽງຈ�ນປະກ�ນໄ�, ເ�ັນບ�ດເ�ດິດ VISA ມີບ�ນຊີເ�ິນຝາກຄ�າປະກ�ນ USD 2.000 ຂ�ນໄ� ແ�ະ ສາມາດໃ��ໄ��ເ�ິງ 90% ຂອງວ�ງເ�ິນບ�ນຊີເ�ິນຝາກ, ສາມາດໃ��ຊໍາລະຄ�າສິນຄ�າ ແ�ະ ຄ�າບໍລິການຮ�ານຄ�າ ທ�ມີສ�ນຍາລ�ກ �ື ໂ�ໂ�� VISA ທ�ວໂ�ກ, ຊ�ສິນຄ�າອອນລາຍຜ�ານທາງເ�ັບໄ�� (Website). ນອກຈາກນ�ນ, ຍ�ງສາມາດ ຖອນເ�ິນສ�ດຜ�ານຕູ�ເ�ທີເ�ັມ (ATM) �ື ປ�ອງບໍລິການຂອງທະນາຄານ ທ�ມີສ�ນຍາລ�ກ �ື ໂ�ໂ�� VISA ທ�ວໂ�ກ, ແ�ະ ໃ��ເ�ັນບ�ດສະມາຊິກຂອງການບິນລາວ ເ��ອສະສ�ມຄະແ�ນໃ�ການເ�ີນທາງກ�ບ ການບິນລາວ ເ��ງຄະແ�ນທ�ສະສ�ມນ�ນ ກ�ສາມາດແ�ກເ�ັນປ�ເ�ືອບິນ ແ�ະ ແ�ກເ�ົາສິດທິພເິ �ດອ�ນໆກ�ບ ການບິນລາວ ເ�ັນຕ�ນແ��ນການນໍາໃ��ຫອ � ງລໍຖາ� ພິເ�ດທ�ສະໜາມບິນ ເ��ອທ�ານເ�ີນທາງກ�ບການບິນລາວ ຟຣີ 2 ຄ�ງ �ື ໃ��ໄ�ຍະການເ�ີນທາງ ສະສ�ມຕາມເ��ອນໄ�. ນອກຈາກນ�ນ ທ�ານຈະໄ��ຮບ � ສິດທິພເິ �ດ ແ�ະ ສ�ວນ�ດ ຸ ຈາກຮ�ານຄ�າທ�ວໂ�ກ ທ�ມີເ��ອງໝາຍ VISA ແ�ະ ສ�ວນ�ດ ຸ ຈາກບ�ນດາຮ�ານຄ�າສະມາຊິກ ທ�ເ��າຮ�ວມໂ�ງການກ�ບ JDB ສູງສູດ 50%, ສາມາດຄວບຄຸມ ແ�ະ ຕິດຕາມການເ��ອນໄ�ຂອງບ�ດຜ�ານ Mobile App: JDB YES. ນອກຈາກນ�ນ, ຍ�ງເ��ມການຄຸ�ມຄອງອຸບ�ດເ�ດ ທ�ວໂ�ກ 24 ຊ�ວໂ�ງ ວ�ງເ�ິນສູງເ�ິງ 50.000.000 ກີບ.

VISIT LAOS-CHINA YEAR OPENS IN SHANGHAI

H.E. Prof. Dr. Bosengkham Vongdara, Lao Minister of Information, Culture, and Tourism, led a delegation of members of the Ministry of Public Works and Transport, Lao Airlines, and the Lao press to Shanghai to open Visit Laos-China Year in China’s most populous city. During the informational event for the public, he announced the implementation of a visa fee reduction for Chinese nationals as well as increased efforts to make traveling in Laos easier for Chinese tourists. During the event, tours to Laos were given away as prizes to lucky members of the public.

ການບິນລາວຮ່ວມເດີນທາງ ໄປຊຽງໄຮ້ເພື່ອເປີ ດປີ ທ່ອງ ທ່ຽວລາວ-ຈີ ນ ສຈ. ປອ. ບ�ແ�ງຄໍາ ວ�ງດາລາ ລ�ດຖະມ�ນຕີ ກະຊວງ ຖະແ�ງຂ�າວ, ວ�ດທະນະທຳ ແ�ະ ທ�ອງທ�ຽວຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ ຮ�ວມກ�ບຄະນະ ຈາກກະຊວງ ໂ�ທາ ທິການ ແ�ະ ຂ�ນສ�ງ, ລ�ດວິສາຫະກິດ ການບິນລາວ, ແ�ະ ສຳນ�ກຂ�າວຕ�າງໆຈາກ ສປປ ລາວ ໄ��ເ�ີນ ທາງໄ�ເ�ື ອ ງ ຊຽງໄ�� ສປ ຈີ ນ ເ�� ອເ�ີ ດ ປີທອ � ງທ�ຽວລາວ-ຈີນ 2019. ໃ�ໂ�ກາດດ�ງກ�າວ, ທ� າ ນ ບ� ແ�ງຄໍ າ ໄ�� ກ� າ ວວ� າ ຈະ�ຸ ດ ຜ� ອ ນຄ� າ ດຳເ�ີນການວີຊ�າສຳລ�ບນ�ກທ�ອງທ�ຽວຈີນທ�ຈະ ເ�ີ ນ ທາງມາຍ� ງ ສປປ ລາວ ແ�ະ ປ� ບ ປຸ ງ ແ�� ໄ�ຂ� ຄ� ງ ຄ� າ ງຕ� າ ງໆ ເ�� ອໃ�� ກ ານເ�ີ ນ ທາງມາ ທ�ອງທ�ຽວໃ�ລາວງ�າຍຍ�ງຂ�ນ. ໃ�ງານດ�ງກ�າວ, ຍ�ງ ມີການຈ�ກສະ�າກມອບລາງວ�ນໃ��ແ��ຜ�ູເ��າ ຮ�ວມງານຄື ແ�ັກເ�ັດມາທ�ຽວລາວອີກດ�ວຍ.

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

SABAIDEE

Mr. Fumiyasu Sakata, from Japan, is a special advisor on Lao Airlines’ internationalization project. Recently, we were able to sit down with him to learn more about his work and what this project means for the airline.

Can you tell us a little about your background and how you came to be here? I have been in Laos since 2012, when I came to assist another airline with a project to inaugurate a flight from Laos to Japan. It required a bilateral civil WINTER TIMETABLE 2017 ERNATIONAL ROUTE / aviation ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ agreement, which took some time, but we were ﬁnally able to ratify it in both countries. The other airline no longer exists, so Lao Airlines took over this project.

TIANE

DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

Daily

07:00

Daily

08:35

18:35

21:30

11:30

AT7

19:35

QV445

A320

22:35

*QV4575

B734

ຊຽງໃໝ�

Transit (LPQ) Arr. 12:15

Daily

14:40

Daily

20:10

07:50

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 09:05

07:00

T Th

07:50 08:00

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 09:15

Daily

11:35

13:20

13:30

00:40

13:15

MTWFS

08:50

Daily

17:10

> SIEMREAP

13:40

Daily

A320

B734

15:15

19:35

QV636

AT7

Dep. 18:45

QV104

A320

ຮ�າໂນ�ຍ

17:50

QV312

A320

10:50

*QV4921

A321

11:20

QV515

AT7

12:00

15:35

QV516

09:55

ໂຮຈີມິນ

T Th S

HO CHI MINH >

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 13:35

QV511

AT7

QV515 QV513

AT7

QV305 QV513

AT7

Dep. 14:20

ສຽມຣຽບ T Th

14:00 14:00

13:00

09:50

10:30

13:55

QV512

AT7

*QV4921

A321

QV815

A320

QV881

A320