U NSE EN
LAOSAFE BUSINESSES ARE READY FOR YOU!
SEARCHING FOR MANOLA
Journey to the land of myths and legends
MEUANG NGOI
Travel before the era of smartphones
HOUAPHAN This remote province has plenty to delight every visitor
MAY / JUNE 2022
Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. We are pleased that Laos is on the path to reopening the country and are excited that international travel is on the horizon again. Yet in this new normal, Lao Airlines continues to be vigilant in protecting the health and safety of everyone. Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.
Safe travels.
With highest respect, Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director & CEO of Lao Airlines
Hello readers, Welcome to the May-June issue of Champa Meuanglao. As the country heats up, the monsoon rains will begin, making the landscapes lush and verdant. In this issue, travel to the far northeastern part of the country and visit incredible Houaphan Province. From ancient mysteries to colorful silk weaving to scenic waterfalls, there is something for everyone.
COVER IMAGE Houaphan Quang Ninh Friendship Park, Sam Neua Photo: Phoonsab Thevongsa
Also, relive an old journey north to Meuang Ngoi. The charming town on the banks of the Ou River is still a pleasant reward for those who visit. As part of our fifth anniversary, we also revisit Fanglao, the modern dance company with all of the moves. Khammouane has a very unknown site, Manola Pool, which is steeped in myth as the bathing place of a legendary maiden. Have you been to Kouang Si Falls? It’s time to visit again and look closer at the diverse flora and fauna all around. Happy Reading!
PUBLISHING Editor In Chief Editors
Managing Editor Contributing Editors Creative Director Contributing Writers
The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team Head Photographer In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.
Contributing Photographers
Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Endy Khamsing Jochen Moravek Anita Preston Melody Kemp Phoonsab Thevongsa Anita Preston Van Hai
ADVISORY BOARD Khamla Phommavanh Managing Director Somsamay Visounnarath Deputy Managing Director of Technical and Flight Operation
ADVERTISING sales@rdkgroup.la (856-20) 59596621
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Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2022 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com
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MAY / JUNE 2022
CONTENTS
34 42
24 10
28 10
24
28
EXPLORE
TRAVEL
ARTS
Houaphan has plenty to
Memories of Meuang
Fanglao's
delight every visitor
Ngoi
contemporary dance
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42
49
SNAPSHOT
NATURE
ON THE AIR
Journey to the land of
Kouang Si Falls is a haven for
Lao Airlines information
myths and legends
flora and fauna
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10
EXPLORE
UNS EEN HOUAPHAN
This remote province has plenty to delight every visitor PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
11
T
he northeastern province of Houaphan is truly an unseen area of Laos, and its remote location means it has not become too touristed. The province is full of spectacular scenery from rugged mountains to beautiful waterfalls to unusual caves. Houaphan is also full of diverse and interesting ethnic groups, beautiful weaving traditions, and a rich history all its own. With the planned opening of a new airport, Houaphan will see many more travelers in the future. So if you want to see Houaphan in its natural state, visit now before the tourists come.
ຮູບໂດຍ ພູນຊັບ ເທວົງສາ ແປ ແລະ ຮຽບຮຽງໂດຍ ແອ໋ນດີ໋ ຄຳສິງ
MAY / JUNE 2022
12
EXPLORE
SAM NEUA Houaphan's provincial capital is Sam Neua, a market town. The handicrafts of the Hmong, Tai Dam, Tai Daeng, and Tai Lue ethnic groups are offered on market days in this town on the Sam River. This quiet village, nestled in some of Laos' most stunning mountain scenery, served as the revolution's nerve center. The majority of visitors come to Sam Neua as a base for seeing the region's remarkable historical and natural treasures.
Many places in Laos have city pillars, which date back to pre-Buddhist beliefs. They are said to be home to guardian spirits that look after the city's health and safety. Locals believe in these powers and provide incense and flowers in exchange for wishes of health, success, or riches. In Sam Neua, the city pillar is located at a prominent intersection and is ornamented with traditional motifs.
CITY PILLAR
HOUAPHAN QUANG NINH FRIENDSHIP PARK
Locals flock to this large open space in the heart of Sam Neua to exercise, especially early in the morning and evening. The large standing stones represent the famous ancient stones known as Hin Tang, which are located in the province.
MAY / JUNE 2022
14
EXPLORE
WAT SIBOUNHEUANG The breathtaking vistas of the surrounding landscape are one highlight of this temple. It is situated on a mountaintop with a panoramic view over the town of Sam Neua and the surrounding mountains. Visitors also visit to worship the famous Phra Chao Ong Teu statue.
NAM NOUA WATERFALL The Nam Noua Waterfall is one of Laos' most breathtaking. These waterfalls are particularly beautiful in the rainy season, when they are at their largest, with an 80-meter drop over two ledges. It is a good spot for a picnic and a swim in the pools below.
MAY / JUNE 2022
REVOLUTIONARY CAVES The Lao resistance movement's headquarters were located here. The Pathet Lao's revolutionary leaders all built their strongholds in caves in Houaphan Province in 1964. With hospitals, offices, schools, a printing press, and markets all within the caves, they became the hub of the Pathet Lao independence struggle. Get a tour guide from the Visitor’s Center to really understand the history of this area.
18
EXPLORE
Mysterious standing stones were built here by an unknown civilization. They are thought to be even older than the Plain of Jars, having been erected by the jar builders' ancestors. It's unclear when this lost civilization existed – though it's thought to have been thousands of years ago – or even who they were. The standing stones, like the jars, are thought to have played a role in ceremonial funerals. Aside from that, little is known.
HIN TANG
19
MAY / JUNE 2022
20
EXPLORE
SALEUY WATERFALL
GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has regular flights to Xieng Khouang. From there a bus or van can make the final leg to Sam Neua.
During the warm months, Lao people seek respite at this beautiful waterfall. The water cascades down over a slick rockface. If you want to climb to the top, there is a trail nearby. At the bottom, merchants sell refreshments as well as locally produced textiles from the Phong ethnic group.
NAM-ET PHOU LOUEY NATIONAL PROTECTED AREA
Nature lovers enjoy this area with some of Laos’ best opportunities to see wildlife. The popular one-day Night Safari tour allows sightings of many kinds of deer, cats, and birds in their natural habitat as visitors float down the river. There are also multi-day trekking options through cloud forests to the top of Phou Louey mountain.
MAY / JUNE 2022
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24
TRAVEL
MEMORIES of
MEUANG NGOI Travel before the era of smartphones TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOCHEN MORAVEK / PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
25
I
n 2005, I first made the four-hour journey from Luang Prabang to Meuang Ngoi standing on the back of a crowded songthaew. The covered truck sped through the mountains, careened around corners, and swerved to miss goats in the road. I nearly fell off – several times – but the experience is one I vividly remember. The songthaew arrived at the boat pier in Nong Khiaw, so I could travel farther north. In those days there was no road, so the only way to get to the old city of Meuang Ngoi was by boat. The 1.5-hour cruise up the Ou River passed by many villages and some of Laos’ most amazing landscapes. The boat was full and I had to squeeze next to the engine in between sacks of vegetables. The cramped seat caused my long legs to ache, but I was comforted along the journey by waving children scampering along the riverbanks shouting “Sabaidee!” Meuang Ngoi is a cozy hamlet with one very long dirt path that served as the town’s main artery and communal gathering place, flanked on both sides by local homes converted into restaurants and guesthouses. In those days, the town did not have any mobile phone signal. Electricity was supplied by the town’s diesel generator and was only available for a few hours every evening. Nowadays, thanks to development, electricity is available all day and mobile phones are ubiquitous. Near Meuang Ngoi, there are interesting caves, cruises, hikes, and villages to enjoy, but this is truly a place to slow down and relax. The normal pace of Laos is slow, yet Meuang Ngoi is even slower.
1 left: Meuang Ngoi's not-sobustling main street 1. Colorful boats at the town's pier 2. Tham Kang cave was a shelter during aerial raids and is a cool place for a swim 3. The verdant countryside near town 4. The main street leads directly to Wat Okat, one of the town's two temples GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has regular flights to Luang Prabang and is the gateway to Meuang Ngoi.
2
3
4
After making my way to a guesthouse, it was time to freshen up. I still shiver when I think of the cold bucket shower available at the guesthouse, equal parts shocking and refreshing, and probably the fastest shower of my life. I soon found myself in a riverside restaurant with a Beerlao and ice shipped in daily by boat. The long difficult journey was worth it, as I got to admire one of the most beautiful sunsets in one of the most beautiful places in Laos. MAY / JUNE 2022
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TRAVEL
27
1
2
3 MAY / JUNE 2022
28
YEARS
ARTS
HE FROM T ES ARCHIV
SPIN
HEAD
Fanglao blends breakdance with traditional and contemporary dance. TEXT BY MELODY KEMP PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAN HAI
MORE INFO Fanglao regularly produces shows in their BlackBox theater located just north of Vientiane city center in Hongkha Village. Visit their Facebook to stay abreast on shows and booking information: facebook.com/Fanglaodancecompany
A
s it becomes a more bustling and vibrant capital, Vientiane is also becoming the nation’s performance hub. Many of the city’s bars and restaurants bring live music and wide ranging discussions to interested audiences, and for a modern dance performance there is Fanglao, one of the region’s best dance troupes, which was founded by Lao choreographers Ounla “Kaka” Pha Oudom and Noutnapha “Nout” Soydala in 2013.
It’s easy enough to characterise them as a breakdance group, and yes they are proud of that tradition. But Fanglao blends breakdance and its mad, mind blowing physics, with traditional and contemporary dance. And rather than lots of clever acrobatics, each dance is choreographed and tells a story. They are sardonic and astute observers of the human condition, playing out games in dance. One recent performance was about male relationships; the smiles followed by a shoulder shove, plying out the tension, the ambiguity. Not only are the night’s performances symbolic, strong and breathtakingly courageous, they are invariably physically skillful. Fanglao combines breakdancing with Lao finger-stretching traditional dance, to bring
29
fluidity and variability to what can be eye spinning gymnastics. There are some moves that leave me wondering how the hell did he or she do that? Their balance can be so elegant that they mock us by pretending to rock and fall. But in reality their toes grip the edge of the props like a gecko, while they center their mass like Frank Gehry. While some may dismiss breakdancing as without form, clever rather than artistic, chaotic not classical, to understand the superlative control of mass, friction, torque, acceleration and in particular angular momentum, to name a few of the forces, is to understand the genius of the genre. Typically break-dancers stand in a circle and call in each other in as a challenge to outdo his or her predecessor. Fanglao takes the style but not the format, so, as one dancer named Gumball explained, the breakdance move is the rotational spin on one hand, the contemporary additions are the how the move resolves and designs into a different kind of fluidity. Dancers like to engage the audience at the end of each performance, sitting with a breathless ease that belies the extraordinary feats of the last hour. ‘When I dance I feel good,’ says Ole Khamchanla, one of the group’s mentors and a French-speaking choreographer. Nout, his female counterpart, hugs her folded legs in agreement. He is straight faced, serious minded with a streak of mischief that emerges later, she is open and shining and she says has been dancing since 2008. “We want to make dancing a career for young Lao people. To teach them teamwork, diversity and the value of creativity over accumulation. Dance parallels life, but is also a solution.”
1
“WE WANT TO MAKE DANCING A CAREER FOR YOUNG LAO PEOPLE. TO TEACH THEM TEAMWORK, DIVERSITY AND THE VALUE OF CREATIVITY OVER ACCUMULATION. DANCE PARALLELS LIFE, BUT IS ALSO A SOLUTION.”
This article appeared in an earlier issue of Champa Meuanglao.
2
left: Dancers rehearse at the Fanglao BlackBox 1. A contemporary dance performance full of emotion 2. Traditional instruments sometimes accompany the dancing
MAY / JUNE 2022
30
ARTS
31
MAY / JUNE 2022
SNAPSHOT
SEARCHING FOR
MANOLA Journey to the land of myths and legends
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
A visitor rests at the scenic Nang Mon Cliff Cave overlooking the Manola Pool.
L
ao folklore is rich in history and tradition. One classic tale is Sithon and Manola, which tells the story of Thao Sithon, a Lao prince, who fell in love with Manola. They married and were separated by war. The story follows their attempts to reunite. Early in the story, Thao Sithon is hunting in the forest and encounters seven kinnari (half-women, half-bird) maidens bathing. He uses a snare and catches one named Manola who becomes his wife. Local people believe that this area was where Thao Sithon caught Manola. This area is full of surreal rock formations with red sandalwood springing out between limestone crags. During the rainy season, water flows from the rocks, creating a pool where Manola is said to have bathed. Nearby is Nang Mon Cliff, which hides a cave that monks use for meditating. Inside is a Buddhist shrine where worshippers pray for good luck. The shady cave also provides a cool resting spot from the heat outside and some spectacular photo opportunities. Keep looking and maybe you will see Manola return for a swim!
36
SNAPSHOT
SEARCHING FOR MANOLA
1. Jagged rocks provide shade from the hot sun. 2. The rocks here resemble sharp teeth. 3. The Hinboun River flows near the Manola Pool.
2
1
3
MAY / JUNE 2022
The large Nang Mon Cliff Cave is a meditation area for local monks.
MAY / JUNE 2022
40
SNAPSHOT
1
3
GETTING THERE Manola Pool is located in Khammouane Province about 20 km south of Khounkham near Phonthong Village.
2
1. The cave is quite large and a cool escape from the outside environment. 2. Monks can use the long smooth passages for walking meditation. 3. Natural windows create beautiful lighting inside the cave. 4. One of the cave openings overlooks the Nam Hinboun plain.
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MAY / JUNE 2022
SUPER NATURAL
Kouang Si Falls is a haven for flora and fauna TEXT BY ANITA PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM
L
ocals often tell you with a nudge and wink when you visit Laos that there is a local waterfall you must visit. For a country full of them, and some spectacular to begin with, it can be hard to work up the enthusiasm for yet another one. However, Kouang Si Falls is the one you must not miss. It’s exactly like you imagined a tropical waterfall hidden in the jungle showcasing the best that Mother Nature has to offer. Picture shafts of light dancing through the trees, insects buzzing, exotic-colored butterflies flitting on the breeze, and the gentle rumbling of something in the distance, but you are not yet sure what. Walk a little further up the shady paths and a little deeper into the cool forest.
MAY / JUNE 2022
Flora and fauna are as prolific and luxuriant as you would expect from this fertile and humid environment, from gigantic Jurassic Park-like taro leaves to yellow and scarlet lobster claw heliconias dangling from stems in bunches like exotic firecrackers. Try to spot the red wax-like thick petals that make up the stunning succulent torch ginger and the aptly-named striking vermillion pagoda flower as part of the jungle's bounty. Insect life is prolific. Among plants and leaves striped caterpillars, bright grasshoppers, and vivid colored beetles can be spotted meandering through the undergrowth. Keep walking and soon you will be greeted by the water, clear and a perfect shade of swimming pool aquamarine bubbling over rocks and into the multiple layers of white-rimmed travertine pools and terraces. Follow the trails and you will be greeted by the star of the show, the falls themselves, 1 2
GETTING THERE Kouang Si Falls is 30 kilometers or about a 45-minute drive from Luang Prabang. Lao Airlines has regular flights to Luang Prabang. 1. A pagoda flower with its conical growth of red blossoms 2. Grasshoppers and other insects can be found in the area 3. The rescue center is home to many native sun and moon bears 4. The largest fall is very picturesque
3
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plunging down from indeterminable height way above the tree line. Walk on the bridge, take a photo with the stunning backdrop. You may need a wide lens to fit it all in. If you want some seclusion or to get off the tourist path you can head to the top of the falls. A marked trail leads up the steep hill to the left of the falls and takes you to the top where the water cascades over the edge of the dizzying precipice plunging down to the pools below. If you decide to visit the falls in the wet season prepare yourself for less color but more drama as the soil carried in by the rains can dampen the water’s vibrancy but the additional volume thundering down the cliff makes for an impressive aural and optical experience. Larger wildlife is on view at the Bear Rescue Sanctuary. It can be quite amusing watching the resident bears play with each other and tumble and roll around. The Moon Bears are endangered animals distinguished by their white crescent markings on their chests and were likely orphaned cubs or rescued from illegal poachers and bile farms. Chances are if you met anyone who has been to Luang Prabang, they have been to Kouang Si Falls, and it's not just tourists visiting. Many local families visit to have a picnic and take photos, especially on weekends and around Lao New Year.
020 2249 6446 jhonan@osssgroup.com OsssLao ASIA AFRICA AUSTRALIA
www.osssgroup.com
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NATURE
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Lao Airlines Updates
LAO AIRLINES NEWS | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES
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FLIGHT ROUTES
WIN
ROUTE MAP INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
10:30
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12:30
QV811
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Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25
PAKSE
13:25
QV535
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09:45
Th Su
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10:55
QV223
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11:20
14:1
QV515
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ບາງກອກ
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13
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11:5
ໂຮຈີມິນ
DOMESTIC ROUTES
ສຽມຣຽບ
> SIEMREAP
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> HO CHI MINH T Th S
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LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su
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ສຽມຣຽບ
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13:00
-
14:00
QV513
AT7
0
Daily
14:
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08:55
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09:55
QV511
AT7
0
T Th
10:
ບາງກອກ
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
08:25
-
Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55
10:55
QV223
AT7
1
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ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
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Transit (PKZ) Arr. 1
DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY
VIENTIANE
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> LUANGPRABANG
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QV111
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-
13:05
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ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ Daily
13:3
LAO AIRLINES OFFICES
INTERNATIONAL OFFICES
DOMESTIC OFFICES
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LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS
WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
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FLIGHT NO.
A/C
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ
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10:30
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12:30
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QV535
09:25
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1
ບາງກອກ -
10:55
QV223
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1
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DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY
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-
10:00
QV111
AT7
0
M T Th S
07
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11:30
-
12:15
QV101
A320
0
W F Su
07
T W Th S Su 13:00
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13:45
QV105
A320
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Daily
13
T W Th S Su
14
M T Th S
17:00
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ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ
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6
