RETURN TO THE ROCK
Discover the natural beauty within
THE RIGHT BANK
Rediscover Luang Prabang
THE STREETS SAVANNAKHET
New art makes this old town sparkle
JUNE 2023
MAY /
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Dear Passengers,
Welcome to your flight on Lao Airlines and I would like to thank you for choosing to fly with us.
Lao Airlines is working to expand and grow our network and is delighted to announce that we are resmuing service to Danang and Guangzhou from Vientiane.
On behalf of the board of management and the employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank you for your faith in our international level of service.
Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.
Safe travels.
With highest respects,
Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Sabaidee
Hello Readers,
Welcome to the May-June issue of Champa Meuanglao.
Savannakhet has found a new life as one of Laos’ hippest towns. See the new street art that bedecks the walls of the old quarter.
Laos’ capital, Vientiane, is an urban center with some relaxing outdoor cafes. We have picked a few that are sure to be fun for the whole family.
The Rock Viewpoint at Phou Pha Marn has opened a newly-explored cave so you can explore the karsts from above and below!
The old bridge in Luang Prabang offers an easy stroll to explore across the Khan River, where local life, handicrafts, and food can be found. Take a walk on the other side!
A jungle retreat in Oudomxay, Nam Kat Yorla Pa is a rising star on the tourism radar for its adventure, culture, and stunning scenery. Perfect for a weekend getaway – or even longer.
Happy Reading!
The Champa Meuanglao team
In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.
ADVISORY BOARD
Khamla Phommavanh
Managing Director
Saleum Tayarath
Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT
Sitthideth Douangsiththy
Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo
Phaythoun Kounsouvanh
Deputy Managing Director of Finance and Flight Training
LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED
Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com
Follow the official Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos.
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PUBLISHING
Editor In Chief Editors
Contributing Editors
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Contributing Writers
Head Photographer
Jason Rolan
Cameron Darke
Aditta Kittikhoun
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Monlady Souliyavongsa
Thanouphet Maniseng
Claire Boobbyer
Melody Kemp
Anita Preston
Phoonsab Thevongsa
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Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.
All rights reserved. Copyright © 2022 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com
COVER IMAGE
A mural of a traditional Lao woman
Photo: The Street Mural Art Project to Promote Tourism in Kaysone Phomvihane Old Town
MAY / JUNE 2023 56 EXPLORE Nam Kat Yorla Pa 12 20 32 ADVENTURE Return to The Rock SPOTLIGHT The Streets of Savannakhet CONSERVATION Making Better Choices for Sustainable Tourism in Laos 50 42 TRAVEL A Stroll on the Right Bank TASTE Getaway in the City CONTENTS 42 32 63 ON THE AIR Lao Airlines Information 50 56 12 20
Special Rates for Lao Residents, Meetings and Seminars 020 5695 5511 Riverside Boutique Resort & Restaurant du Crabe d’Or - Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng, Vientiane Province, Lao PDR www.riversidevangvieng.com Facebook.com/riversidevangvieng info@riversidevangvieng.com T +856 (0) 23 511 726-8
MAKING BETTER CHOICES FOR SUSTAINABLE
TOURISM LAOS IN
CONSERVATION TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE SUSTOUR LAOS PROJECT
12
Traveling is a great way to learn about other cultures, try new foods, and make unforgettable memories. Yet tourism can also have negative impacts on the environment and local communities. As responsible travelers, we can minimize these impacts and leave a positive mark on the places we visit. One way to achieve this is by choosing eco-friendly accommodations and tour operators who have been certified by Travelife, the leading sustainable tourism certification worldwide. In this article, we'll explore the benefits of staying at a Travelife-certified hotel and provide specific examples of sustainable practices implemented by these hotels.
Travelife is a certification program for accommodations and tour operators that promotes sustainable tourism practices. To become Travelife Certified, a business must undergo a rigorous assessment that evaluates its environmental impact, social responsibility, and cultural preservation practices. Local businesses are provided with free training and coaching to become certified by the SUSTOUR Laos project which is funded by the European Union.
Mr. Malaithong Kommasit, Minister of Industry and Trade, Ms. Chanthachone Vongsay, Vice President of the Lao National
Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LNCCI), and Mr. Niall Leonard, Charge de Affairs of the European Union Delegation in Laos. Mr. Leonard personally handed over the awards to each of the five hotels who are leading the way in sustainable tourism.
Mr. Leonard remarked that “the European Union (EU) is proud to support micro, small, and medium-sized entrepreneurs to enter the green tourism sector. Laos, as a green destination, will increase income and
left: A tourist enjoys the sunset at a viewpoint in Vang Vieng
1. Maison Dalabua Boutique Hotel in Luang Prabang
2. Salana Boutique Hotel in Vientiane
1 2 13 MAY / JUNE 2023
above: Souphattra Hotel in Luang Prabang
employment opportunities, while strengthening environment protection and climate change mitigation. Overall this step represents a significant contribution to sustainable national economic growth.”
facebook.com/ lastinglao
Vice President of LNCCI Ms. Chanthachone Vongsay, said, “In highly competitive business as the tourism industry, the LNCCI recognizes that MSMEs in Laos have the potential to grow and to meet the global standards of sustainability in tourism. With the support from Plan International Laos, the government and LNCCI have motivated, promoted, and assisted the MSMEs in the supply chain of the tourism industry to improve the quality of sustainable operations and services. This will pinpoint Laos as a final destination of many responsible tourists.”
Five hotels in Laos have recently been certified by Travelife – Souphattra Hotel Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang View Hotel, Maison Souvannaphoum, Maison Da-
labua, and Salana Boutique Hotel. During the Made in Laos fair, the five Travelife certified hotels were recognized for their efforts and commitment to sustainability. By choosing one of these hotels, you can be assured that you are supporting responsible and sustainable tourism.
Travelife Certified hotels implement a variety of sustainable practices to reduce their environmental impact. For example, the Souphattra Hotel Luang Prabang and Maison Souvannaphoum use energy-efficient lighting and appliances throughout their properties which significantly reduce energy consumption. The Luang Prabang View Hotel and Salana Boutique Hotel have implemented water saving devices in guest rooms and public areas, reducing their water usage by up to 30%. Maison Dalabua and Salana Boutique Hotel have implemented recycling programs to manage waste effectively and reduce their environmental footprint.
CONSERVATION
14
These hotels also prioritize supporting local communities by sourcing products from local suppliers. For example, Maison Souvannaphoum uses straws made from banana leaf, a local product that provides a sustainable alternative to plastic straws. By staying at a Travelife certified hotel, you can help reduce your own carbon footprint and support local communities.
As responsible travelers, we can minimize the negative impacts of tourism on the planet and its people. By choosing Travelife certified hotels in Laos, we can help preserve the environment and support local communities while also having an unforgettable travel experience. Remember to choose Travelife certified hotels for your next trip to Laos, and join the movement towards sustainable tourism.
MORE INFO
SUSTOUR Laos Project
Office (LNCCI building)
Kaysone Phomvihane Ave, Phonphanao Village, Saysetha District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR
P.O. Box: 4596
Book
Angsana Maison
SouvannaphoumHotel
Call: +856 71 254 609
Email: reservations-maison@ angsana.com
www.angsana.com/laos/ souvannaphoum
Luang Prabang View Hotel
Call: +856 71 260 560
Email: booking@lpbview.com
www.luangprabangview.com
Hotel
Luang Prabang
Call: +856 71 211 222
Email: info@souphattra.com
www.souphattra.com
Salana Boutique Hotel
Call: +856 21 254 254
Email: rsvn@salanaboutique.com
www.salanaboutique.com
Maison Dalabua
Call: +856 71 255 588
Email: book@maisondalabua.com
www.maisondalabua.com
your next stay at one of the Travelife Certified Hotels at Souphattra
15 MAY / JUNE 2023
CONSERVATION 16
1 17 MAY / JUNE 2023
CONSERVATION facebook.com/ lastinglao 18
1 19 MAY / JUNE 2023
RETURN TO
THE ROCK
Discover the natural beauty within
TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
An elevated walkway around rocky outcroppings at The Rock
The Rock Viewpoint at Phou Pha Marn, with its fascinating itinerary of zip lines, spider nets, and canopy walks, has become a must-do experience in Laos. Located in The Phou Hin Boun National Protected Area in Khammouan Province, a remote region of breathtaking vistas, and rare animals in Central Laos. Here, visitors can fully immerse themselves in one of the largest limestone forests in all of Asia. But now there are some new attractions sure to warrant more visits.
Adrenaline junkies now have new opportunities nearby to explore the vast and recently-explored Nanglong cave. Visitors will be able to zipline across the vast width of the cave, ride inner tubes on the river that flows through the cave, and even walk across a high rope bridge to see the interior of the cave from above.
Of the countless limestone caverns dotted across Khammouan province, Nanglong cave is definitely one of the most fascinating!
ADVENTURE 1 2 22
1. Birdwatching at The Rock up close
2. Fascinating langurs come out at dawn and dusk in this area
3 23 MAY / JUNE 2023
3. Birds and other wildlife can be seen at The Rock
1. Tourists prepare to zipline through this unique environment
2. Squirrels make homes in limestone crevices
1 2 3 ADVENTURE 24
3. A suspended walkway in the Nanglong Cave
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27 MAY / JUNE 2023
ADVENTURE 28
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ADVENTURE 30
31 MAY / JUNE 2023
of THE STREETS
SAVANNAKHET
New art makes this old town sparkle
TEXT BY MELODY KEMP
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON ROLAN / MELODY KEMP
SPOTLIGHT
32
Oh there she is! I cried as I came around the corner and face to face with a beautiful woman, her ornately patterned silk scarf flying in the wind and encircling a small window. I had just left two blue dinosaurs, their gruesome smiles towering over me, and a clump of artisans toiling over woodworking tools. Before that, there were kids on bikes with kites flying above their heads. But she, in her elemental beauty, was the star of the show.
Then there were the cats looking alarmed, cute, ferocious, vigilant. So many, I thought we could change the name of the city to “Savannacat”.
The southern capital, much ignored by travelers who follow the well-trodden pilgrimage path to Luang Prabang is flowering into an equivalent city of architecture and art. Street art.
Old French buildings with their pastiche of peeling paint are now home to well-scented coffee bars and restaurants. Its wide streets offer skyscapes that blend
into the huge expanse of the Mekong River as it meets Thailand on the other side at Mukdahan. If you think Luang Prabang is old, think again.
Fossilized remains prove dinosaurs once roamed what is now Savannakhet, ancestors of the progeny still decorating the wall. Archaeology suggests humans lived in the area at least 4,000 years ago. Excavations have turned up Bronze Age artifacts and ancient copper mines, remnants of terraced agricultural systems with diversion dams and channels, stone tools, and pottery shards. Maybe even wine glasses and coffee cups.
According to legend, the Phouthai and Lao people migrated from northwestern Vietnam down the Nam Ou River which is north of Luang Prabang, to the Mekong, continuing downriver, until eventually reaching present-day Savannakhet.
After being under the influence of the Champa Kingdom from the 7th to 10th centuries, the Khmer took over in the 13th century leaving Stone House
left: A playful homage to the discovery of dinosaurs in Savannakhet
1. A mechanic crouches between two doors
1 33 MAY / JUNE 2023
and distinctive designs on the That Ing Hang Stupa. The Lane Xang Kingdom, established in the 14th century, then controlled Savannakhet. But they did not design this street art.
The old town which is now known as Kaysone Phomvihane District was conceived of as part of the overall restoration of the vintage buildings, many dating from the French Colonial days. APA Incorporated undertook the task of listing and mapping the old city, in order to revive the city’s pride, identity, and culture. The city’s old facades will be renewed as part of this project which is hoped will attract tourism and investment.
Now it is the site of a treasure hunt. Hey, look at that! Oh wow, what inspired that sci-fi character? What will we find around this corner?
An art exhibition in fact. A wonderful collection of pen and ink drawings of old buildings done by Mr. Phetsalard. The works were exhibited appropriately in the city’s timeworn gallery. Juxtaposed with his classic depictions of the city’s architecture, were equally detailed drawings of young men kickboxing. In my mind, the colonial buildings look suitably aloof from the tug of muscles mounted on the other easels.
1. One of the cats found among many of the paintings
2. Savannakhet is full of wonderful architectural heritage
GETTING THERE
SPOTLIGHT
1 34
Lao Airlines flies daily from Vientiane to Savannakhet.
2 35 MAY / JUNE 2023
MORE INFO
The street art and revitalization of Savannakhet is being managed by architectural consultancy APA Inc. Follow their work at fb.com/apalaos
It turns out the artist both supervised and contributed to the street art, some of which is serious, depicting local history and artisans, most is hilarious or inventive and gives the visitor a real challenge. How many can you find and photograph? How many cats do you find and how many feline expressions? How many village scenes, how many kids? What did you learn about artisans and what they made? Do you see the same round cakes depicted on walls on sale in the streets? How many artworks did you find? Time for a coffee?
Hathachan Nanthavong, himself an artist, photographer, and graphic designer, told me that most of the street art was done by artists and teachers from schools in the city. Around twelve people only three of whom were themselves from Savannakhet were involved. Quite a team.
The last time I visited Savannakhet, the city was unimpressive, but that predated the recognition that this was a city worthy of restoration, pride in antiquity, and of course the arts. All of which are signs of the city’s revival.
SPOTLIGHT
36
above: A painting of a traditional coffee stall
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SPOTLIGHT 38
1 39 MAY / JUNE 2023
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Tel: +856 71 252 124 11 Phouvao Road, Ban That Luang, Luang Prabang, 06000, LAO PDR 1
Mr Bee, Reservation Manager reservation@parasol-blanc.com www.parasol-blanc.com
A STROLL ON THE RIGHT BANK
Get off the beaten path and rediscover Luang Prabang
TEXT BY ANITA PRESTON
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANITA PRESTON / EVENSONG FILM
One of Luang Prabang's most iconic and impressive structures is being refurbished. The old steel and wooden bridge built by the French in the 1920s when Luang Prabang was part of Indochina is now clocking up a hundred years in age. It used to be only the adventurous and bold who dared to tread its wobbly and precarious planks high above the Nam Khan (Khan River) but now the creaking and loose boards that lined both sides of the bridge have been replaced with one sheet of treaded steel. Now it’s easy to walk over the bridge and explore what the other side of the Nam Khan has to offer. If you want to get away from the main area of town, there are plenty of things to do and see with a totally different vibe. Now, all it takes is an easy stroll on the bridge. The other bank will take you through villages with shops selling items as diverse as bamboo rice baskets and pink gasoline in glass bottles. Life is simple and much different than in the town, homemade ice-cream sellers on bicycles ply their wares to groups of children playing with kites, the scrap metal collector shows up on his motorbike ready to take any old rusty tin, trays of Mekong river weed like dark green hair are drying outside basic wooden homes and weaving looms can be seen gracing verandas all backed up with an intermittent soundtrack of crowing roosters.
If you go early enough in the morning you may catch a parade of monks at almsgiving crossing the bridge, a stunning photo opportunity. Here’s a tip: tak bat (almsgiving) does not only happen on Luang Prabang’s main street. Long lines of monks on their daily rounds can be seen across the Nam Khan and you will probably be the only one watching. If you prefer a more serene and calm almsgiving experience head over the bridge just before first light to escape the crowds.
A shop sells paintings on mulberry paper in Xangkhong Village
43 MAY / JUNE 2023
On the second intersection after the bridge, a left turn will bring you to a small but very popular wet market on your right. Fruits, vegetables, spices, fresh fish, and produce from the forest such as bamboo shoots and jungle herbs are laid out on low tables for sale. You can also find many different types of rice and dried chilies. Grab a fresh nam oi (sugarcane juice) from the vendor on the right as you go in to slake your thirst. You can spot her tall sticks of fresh sugarcane propped up in buckets to be ground into juice between the gears of an oversized metal mangle.
When you take the road past Apsara Rive Droite, be on the lookout for the atmospheric ruined temple on your right, remnants of the Haw invasion in the 1880s. Further up the road as it splits in two, keep to the left, and as you round the bend, you will see a big plot of land. This is the sunset viewpoint at the meeting of the Mekong and Nam Khan. There is a small trail that descends to some large rocks on the shore. These are popular vantage spots for people wanting to commune with nature. You will have a fantastic view of
GETTING THERE
Lao Airlines flies frequently to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Pakse, and Siem Reap.
the Mekong and the peninsula. The sun will set straight ahead of you and boats will be bathed in a warm glow as the sun dips below the horizon.
Wat Xieng Lek, further up the road, has a quaint and friendly community. Here there are only three novices and a revered monk that has lived here since age 14 and is said to tell fortunes. If you are interested in temple architecture this could be an interesting trip as there are at least 10 temples to see in the vicinity.
TRAVEL
1 2 44
Ban Xang Khong and Ban Xieng Lek are renowned as villages of artisans, especially famous for weaving and papermaking. Here you can see trays of mulberry mulch scattered with bright pink bougainvillea petals propped up to dry, producing the famous saa mulberry paper. As the fibers are long, the paper is strong and is used to make lampshades, formed into books, and painted on. The locals rely on tourism to support their income, as being outside the city it can be harder to make a living. Wood carvings, fine jewelry, and weaving are made locally and sold here.
Heading back in the late afternoon, the last stretch of road before the bridge will be buzzing and getting in full swing for the evening rush. On both sides, sellers offer cooked food, fresh meat and vegetables, lottery tickets, grilled pork skewers, and freshly made on-the-spot roti with condensed milk. The bridge is busy with locals out for a drive as the temperature cools down
Take the lefthand footpath of the bridge back to town. Facing away from the town gives you a view of the gilded hexagon-shaped Wat Pa Phon Phao glimmering in the light of the setting sun and trees cast black shadows on the river. This a literal golden photo opportunity to add to your lasting memories of Luang Prabang.
GETTING AROUND
By foot or bicycle is recommended
1. A view of the old bridge over the Khan River
2. A monk walks to his temple
3. An elaborately carved temple near the riverside
4. Flower petals and leaves are fixed into the mulberry paper before it dries
5. An artist paints in Xangkhong Villagebefore it dries
3 4 5 45 MAY / JUNE 2023
TRAVEL 46
1 2 47 MAY / JUNE 2023
TRAVEL 1 2 48
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GETAWAY the City
Wind down at a coffee shop in Vientiane
TRANSLATED BY NICK PUGH PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
Vientiane, the capital of Laos, is famed for its cultural and historical tourist attractions, dazzling with elegance and of superlative value to Laos what with Patuxay, a monument to the independence from French colonialism, and That Luang, an ancient and sacred site symbolic of the Lao nation and a treasure for the Lao people and for Buddhists on both banks of the Mekong river. Furthermore, Vientiane also boasts natural tourist attractions no less exquisite than those of the provinces. Today, however, we will be looking at some spots of natural abundance accessible without having to travel far from the capital and where you can fill your lungs with fresh air and enjoy the comforting respite of the surrounding nature away from the strenuous hustle and bustle of your studies, work, or daily life.
IN
AIDEN’S BY MANEE CAFE
If you are looking for a place to engross yourself in your favorite novel amidst the soothing sound of a fountain to quieten your mind accompanied by smooth grass and enchanting leafy trees with sweet and savory delights on offer, try out Aiden’s by MANEE Café at least once because it has all of the above and if that is not enough, this café is the only one in Laos which has an olive tree, which is almost a hundred years old and stands at the front of the café for you to relish in its charm, not to mention a children’s playground where adults can play too.
Location: Lane 42, Phonpapao village, Sisattanak district, Vientiane capital
Opening hours: 8 am - 9 pm (closed on Mondays)
Facebook: Manee Cafe
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BACKYARD CAFE & PLAYGROUND
If you are looking to cleanse your lungs with some clean air while enjoying a natural view with a wide open space and fish ponds, a variety of sweet and savory dishes to choose from, unique to this café, and slides for your children to have fun, you must try the Backyard Café and Playground because it has everything you could dream of, including a pavilion, café area, White House area, and a children’s playground.
But this is not all – you can also watch the sheep, rabbits, goats, and cows go about their business – so if you have the chance to drop in, don’t forget to feed the large flock of sheep who live there with cabbage, which is sold there. The sheep are adorable and let you touch them but avoid touching their horns as it can make them charge.
Location: Dongkhamxang village, Hatxayfong district, Vientiane capital
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday
Facebook: Backyard Cafe&Playground
53 MAY / JUNE 2023
VIENTIANE GARDEN RESTAURANT
How would you like to sit, breathing in the fresh air watching a shoal of koi fish swimming around the plunge pool of a waterfall with a variety of flora to see? It is not hard to guess how blissful it would be but there is more because if you add some delectable food to take pleasure in such an atmosphere, it would make it an experience to remember for many years to come.
So if you are in search of something like the above, you must try out the Vientiane Garden Restaurant at least once as its full range of services means that you needn’t go looking elsewhere.
Location: Phakhao village, Xaythany district,Vientiane capital
Opening hours: Every day from 10:30 am to 11 pm
Facebook:
TASTE
ສວນອາຫານວຽງຈ�ນ-
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Vientiane Garden
But whether you hail from Laos or any where else across the globe, the key thing is to remember your own role in the ecosystem. Being a tourist comes with responsibilities and we have to understand the risks and preventa tive measures associated with these if we are to minimize our carbon footprint.
This also concerns being mindful of our ac tions and how they could have an impact on the health of others, flora and fauna, and the environment on which we all depend.
By keeping this in mind just a little, it is easy to reduce our carbon footprint and have consideration for the places we visit so that we may work together to look after the environ ment, people, and fauna of Laos for them to thrive and ensure their safety for the future.
GETTING THERE
Lao Airlines has daily flights to Vientiane from Bangkok, Hanoi, Seoul, and many cities in Laos.
NAM KAT YORLA PA
Laos’ secret jungle retreat
TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
property, Nam Pien Yorla Pa, two hours from Vientiane in the foothills of Phou Khao Khouay National Park.)
visit namkatyorlapa.com
GETTING THERE
Lao Airlines has frequent flights to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Hanoi. Oudomxay is a brief ride from Luang Prabang on the Laos-China Railway.
Nam Kat Yorla Pa is a little secret. This jungle retreat, once fairly remote, is only 25 minutes by road from Muang Xai railway station. It’s the perfect weekend getaway from Luang Prabang, 45 minutes down the line. Tucked into tropical forest, the hideaway offers everything from gorgeous pool villas to comfy standard rooms. And an enchanting winding walkway weaves through the lush greenery to all the wooden bungalows overlooking the burbling Nam Kat river.
I arrived, fresh off a morning train. The high-altitude fresh air was a balm. The curated spaces and beautiful design up in the wilds are unexpected. Nam Kat Yorla Pa’s lobby is a large spectacular creation fashioned by architects from Vientiane. (The same architects also designed a sister
The Nam Kat Yorla Pa lobby is striking, and the view took my breath away. The grand entrance hall is lit by an enormous chandelier made from long dangling bamboo tubes. Above the reception, hundreds of slim lengthy cloth pendants hang in a rainbow of colors. It’s a dazzling and mesmerizing piece of art. The wide lobby exit frames a view of the teal-green infinity swimming pool resting above the river with the dense forest beyond. With a view like that and the sun shining, I was keen to take a dip.
To head to my room after a relaxed swim, I could pass through the fitness and yoga center next to the pool or backtrack a little and walk a small path that arced tiny burbling streams using dainty, humped wooden bridges. I mostly always chose this way as it felt like a meander through fairyland.
Wooden steps flanked by tangled banana plants and orange bird of paradise flowers led me down to a small, roofed gatehouse
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with saloon doors. Beyond the swing doors were steps up to my bungalow. The bed of my executive room looked out onto the river through floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors. My private terrace shaded by a sloping roof was perched just above the chunky boulders of the river, the bamboo forest on the far side. My room was spacious and stylish with plenty of bamboo accents – the headboard, lamps, furniture, and the frames of bathroom mirrors.
The resort is set in Khmu country and staff live a short walk away in a reimagined Khmu village of huts on stilts with a path running through it. It’s a serene setting focused on rice paddies. Some 50 percent of the staff at Nam Kat Yorla Pa are from the local community; a further 49 percent are from the surrounding Oudomxay province.
In the hotel’s backcountry, a whole host of tours keeps you busy for days. Try ziplining, rock climbing, abseiling, riding an ATV, or visiting waterfalls. The good news is that all these activities begin quite a ride away from the hotel, so the peace of the rooms, pool, and restaurant is never shattered. In fact, it’s so peaceful it attracts a party of birds – most of which I’d never set eyes on before in Laos. In fact, if you check the popular birdwatching website ebird.org you’ll see the area is a birders’ hotspot with a chance to see such beauties as the blue and white Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher or the jewel-like Mrs. Gould’s sunbird.
While having an alfresco lunch at the restaurant on a veranda stretching towards the river, I spied a white-capped redstart, perfectly content to hang around. I was more than content to watch it, too. The sun was out, the breeze was minimal, and only the sound of gurgling river water accompanied my meal.
Everything from Lao and Thai food to western grub is available on the extensive restaurant menu. One of my favorite things was scooping up wild honey dripping from a honeycomb laid out at breakfast.
I spent my few days at Nam Kat Yorla Pa walking in sky-high mountains. On my return each day, after long treks to visit Hmong, Khmu, and Akha communities, I sank into my large hot tub for a long bath and booked an oil massage with the resort’s on-site masseur. It was all bliss. But here’s the thing. At Nam Kat, you can do as much or as little as you like. There’s no pressure to take up any of the paid-for 21 high-adrenaline kicks and there’s no shame in strolling about, watching the koi carp in the pond, lolling about the sun loungers, and doing very very little.
left: Nam Kat Yorla Pa from the air
1. The swimming pool is great for a cool dip
2. Nam Kat waterfall near the resort
3. Colorful koi fish
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4. A wooden walkway winds past ponds and the pool
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59 MAY / JUNE 2023
NAM KAT YORLA PA
翻译及编辑 尹航 摄影 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
Nam Kat Yorla Pa 是一家隐藏于丛林深 处的秘境度假酒店。虽然位于丛林深处, 但是到达交通却不复杂:乘火车到孟塞 站,然后再开车25分钟即可到达。如果
在琅勃拉邦游玩,只需再乘坐45分钟火车到达门孟塞 站,所以这里是个不错的琅勃拉邦周边选择。
酒店提供各种房型供您选择,不仅有泳池别墅, 还有经济标准房。一条步行道蜿蜒穿过郁郁葱葱的绿 植,通往酒店木质联排别墅,从房间内可以俯瞰南咖 河的潺潺流水。
我乘坐早上的火车直接抵达这里。高海拔的新 鲜空气抚慰着旅人的心灵。酒店的空间设计与户外丛 林恰到好处的融合,大堂的设计由万象的设计师完 成,视觉感受非常震撼。
酒店大堂非常吸引人,让我惊叹不已。高挑的大 厅内有一盏巨大的吊灯,吊灯由悬空的长竹管制成。 前台上吊挂着数百个细长彩色布条,风中缓缓飘荡, 宛若一件令人眼花缭乱的艺术品。宽敞的大堂出口直 通一个青绿色的无边泳池,泳池位于河流上方,远处 就是茂密的森林。
木栈道直通我的行政房,这个房型是独立的木质 平房,推开房门,大片的落地窗映入眼帘,窗外可以俯
瞰南咖河。私人露台上方有斜顶遮蔽,就坐落在河流 的巨石上方,远处是茂密的竹林。我的房间宽敞而时 尚,床头板、台灯、家具和浴室镜框都由竹子元素装饰。
度假村靠近 Khmu 少数民族的居住地,工作人 员就住在重新设计的 Khmu 村,村里一条小路贯穿其
中,分布着老挝传统高架木屋。旁边成片的稻田显得 异常宁静。Nam Kat Yorla Pa 约 50% 的员工来自当 地社区,另有 49% 为乌多姆赛省内其他地区的居民。
在酒店周围有很多项目可以探索,足够安排上几 天的行程:高空滑索、攀岩、绳降、乘坐全地形车或参 观瀑布。所有这些活动都距酒店有一段距离,客房、游 泳池和餐厅不会受到干扰,客人可以尽享私密和宁静。
餐厅的餐桌一直延伸到河边的阳台,我在这里享 用午餐,身边鸟语花香,美景环绕。太阳出来了阳光洒 在河水上,波光粼粼,哗啦啦的流水声让我觉得与自 然更近了。
我在 Nam Kat Yorla Pa 住了几天,每天到山里 徒步,可以参观苗族、克木族和阿卡族社区,然后在浴 缸里泡个热水澡,再和度假村的按摩师预约一次精油 按摩。在度假村,请随心所欲享受时光,可以安排参加 探险活动,也可以什么都不做,就在泳池边发呆晒太 阳。这里让人忘记生活的压力,只要随心而行。 1
更多信息 请访问网站, www.namkatyorlapa.com
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1. NAM KAT YORLA PA 度 假酒店大堂
2. 晚间配有照明的泳池
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到达方式 老挝航空公司有很多航班从万
象、巴色、曼谷、清迈和河内飞 往琅勃拉邦。
老挝-中国铁路:从琅勃拉邦可 到达乌东姆塞,车程很短。
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