IN THE
BOUN LAI HEUA FAI
FOOTSTEPS
The Fireboat Festival in Pictures
GOING BANANAS
A Sustainable Plantation in Meuang Nong
OF
GIANTS SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
VIENTIANE’S FIRST NEXT GENERATION WORKING SPACE
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BOUNMA CHANTHAVONGSA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES
Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. Lao Airlines would like to inform you about new direct flights between Kumamoto and both Vientiane and Luang Prabang with two flights per week. These will begin by the end of the year. Kumamoto is an important city and a great place to visit on Kyushu Island, as it is full of culture, history, and natural beauty. On behalf of the board of management and the employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank you for your faith in our international level of service and the direction of Lao Airlines in our expansion to new destinations. Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon. Safe travels.
Bounma Chanthavongsa President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Hello readers, Welcome to the September-October issue of Champa Meuanglao. In the last few months of this rainy season, the country is exceptionally green and beautiful – especially when viewed from the air! In this issue we embark on a journey to the ancient temple, Wat Phou, to unlock some of its secrets. While in the south, some thrilling adventurous options also await for the rugged traveler, as well as an environmentally-friendly banana plantation.
COVER IMAGE An elephant forages in the bushes at Mandalao Photo by Jordan Brown
Have a respectful and humane encounter with an elephant, the symbol of Laos, at Mandalao. Also up north, get a peek of the enchantingly beautiful Fireboat Festival in Luang Prabang, which occurs at the end of Buddhist Lent.
PUBLISHING Editor In Chief Editors
Recently, the famous Bikingman ultra-cycling race was held in Laos. Read an account of one participant and his inner journey during the event.
Managing Editor
Try working some local Lao fabrics into your wardrobe with advice from our style guru. Also, sip some new flavors from Vientiane’s cocktail scene at Belle J.
Contributing Editor Creative Director
Happy Reading!
Assistant Designer
The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team
Contributing Writers
ADVISORY BOARD Bounma Chanthavongsa President Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation
Head Photographer Contributing Photographers
Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng Benny Omar Claire Boobbyer Dominique le Roux Julia Case-Levine Marcus Leach Outhay Khamsomphou Sommith Phunyathone Vanida Phimphrachanh Phoonsab Thevongsa
Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting
Bart Verweij David Styv Jordan Brown Mary Jane
Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering
ADVERTISING
Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism
Sales & Marketing Manager
Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578
LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos
RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la
DISCLAIMER
Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2019 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
24 CONTENTS
32
56
62 40
50
12
14
16
WHAT'S ON
FOOD CAPITAL
MADE IN LAOS
Our Guide to Events
The Foodie's Guide
Showcasing the Best
in Laos
to Vientiane
Lao Products
18
24
32
40
46
ADVENTURE
SNAPSHOT
INTO THE WILD
EXPLORE
NIGHTLIFE
BikingMan –
Boun Lai Heua Fai
Mandalao –
Secrets of Wat Phou
Belle J –
in Search of Redemption
in Luang Prabang
in the Footsteps of Giants
50
56
62
67
STYLE
CLOSE-UP
SOUTHERN LAOS
ON THE AIR
From Traditional
Going Bananas in
Extreme Southern Laos
Timetables and
to Prêt À Porter
Meuang Nong
A Shot in the Dark
Contact Details
12
WHAT'S ON
WHAT'S ON?
Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time. Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!
13
SEPTEMBER
NATIONWIDE
HOR KHAO SALAK
14
20
OCTOBER
VIENTIANE
LUANG PRABANG
BOAT RACING FESTIVAL
LUANG PRABANG HALF MARATHON
Lao people gather baskets full of food and household items and offer at temples to make merit for family members and ancestors who have already passed away.
This annual race attracts runners from all over the world. Proceeds support the Lao Friends Hospital for Children.
Laos’ largest boat race occurs at Wat Chan, along with a large market fair. Teams from all over Laos compete for prizes and bragging rights.
13
OCTOBER
NATIONWIDE
END OF BUDDHIST LENT
OCTOBER
26 –3 OCT.
NOV.
LUANG PRABANG
LUANG PRABANG
FIREBOAT FESTIVAL Villages construct large candlelit boats to parade through town, compete for prizes, and then be released into the river.
LAO HANDICRAFT FESTIVAL 2019
Rather than scour the entire country looking for the best local handicrafts, they are all brought together here under one roof. To read more about the Fireboat Festival in Luang Prabang go to page 24
Lao people make merit by releasing small floats made of banana trunks and decorated with candles and flowers into the river. PAK NGUM
NAGA FIREBALLS Mysterious balls of light float up out of the Mekong only on this evening – believed to come from Naga spirits in the river – or is there some other explanation? To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com
14
FOOD CAPITAL
food CAPITAL
Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.
Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane. Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle
Ban Wat Chan Mon–Sat 12 pm– 3 pm and 5 pm– 10 pm @taqueriaelverano
MEXICAN
TAQUERIA EL VERANO Treat yourself to homestyle Mexican food at this neighborhood restaurant. There’s something to suit every taste from tacos and quesadillas to nachos and ensenadas. Come for quick lunch specials starting from 29 000 Kip. Finish with delicious Chocolate & Banana cake, and unwind with an after-work margarita.
LAO AUTHENTIC CUISINE
don't miss
Spicy Beef Tacos
CAFÉ
LE CATTITUDE Laos gets its first cat café in Vientiane. This charming cat café introduces you to a whole new level of cuteness. The space was set up by local cat lover Analin and her sister Anna who not only hope to provide a space for kitty cuddles and cake, but spread the word about love for cats. The cats in residence are on hand to be cuddled, and offer highly Instagrammable photo opportunities.
KHAO SUAY A Lao restaurant that offers an affordable and quick meal. Here at Khao Suay, you can find over ten delicious Lao-style dishes. A variety of foods served over rice makes workday lunches nutritious, affordable, and delicious all at the same time. Expect everything from chicken to pork, and assorted types of vegetables cooked in an array of styles.
Ban Nongbone Mon–Sat 7 am – 3 pm @khaosuaylaos
Rue Samsenthai Tue–Sun 9 am– 9 pm
don't miss
Homemade dessert of the day
@lecattitudecafe
don't miss
Old Fashioned Lao Breakfast (coffee, tea, half boiled egg & deep fried dough)
16
MADE IN LAOS
MADE IN LAOS
Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos? Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.
HMONG SPIRAL EARRINGS These reverse embroidered earrings are stitched with fine, silk threads, inspired by traditional swirling motifs from Hmong ceremonial garments.
LE TRIO COFFEE Just in time for their 10th anniversary, Le Trio coffee comes in a new look and offers 4 different blends of 100% Lao coffee roasted daily in their boutique cafe.
NATURAL INSECT REPELLENT
150 000 LAK Ma Té Sai Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang
This unique 100% natural insect repellent mist also includes healing extracts and emollients to soothe insect bites and irritated skin.
matesai.com
35 000 –55 000 LAK
30ML
Le Trio Coffee Setthathirath Road, Vientiane
50 ML
22 000 LAK 30 000 LAK
facebook.com/letriocoffee
Lao Natural Thadeau Road, Vientiane facebook.com/laoproduct
INDIGO HANDBAG
MAHOGANY CHINESE CHESS
Created by one of the country’s top young designers, this stylish clutch captures traditional Lao patterns in ikat dyeing techniques.
This beautiful Chinese Chess set, crafted from Lao mahogany, makes for the perfect gift.
180 000 LAK
438 000 LAK
Tam. HowRU2day at Vientiane Center (Floor 1), Vientiane
Dee Dee Mahogany Crafts Ban Nakham, Vientiane
facebook.com/tamkhounphouvong
WECHAT 微信��: LF58215188
To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com
IN
SEARCH OF REDEMPTION A BikingMan racer learns life lessons from the sidelines. TEXT BY MARCUS LEACH PHOTOGRAPHS BY BIKINGMAN / DAVID STYV
19
I
Dusk in the misty mountains of Laos
pause to catch my breath. As I do so I am suddenly aware of the cacophony of noise around me, the shrill blast of insects hidden in the thick under growth growing ever louder, monkeys howling overhead and water cascading over rocks. I have no concept of time, but figure it must be sometime in the afternoon as the sun is high overhead and a suffocating heat is closing in all around. Parched and out of water, I curse myself for not stopping when I had a chance to refill my bottle. A single thought goes through my head: “You’re not meant to be here.” Every time I stop moving it comes back, a constant reminder. And there can be no arguing with the voice, because I’m not meant to be here. And what’s more, I don’t actually want to be here. Not Laos itself, but rather this particular corner of the country, lost and alone in the jungle. A branch comes crashing down, snapping as it hits the exposed rock just a few feet away from me. The surprise startles me, breaking my inertia as I grab my bike and continue fighting my way through the dense foliage, doing my best to free my mind from that nagging thought: “You’re not meant to be here.” It had all started so well. Along with fourteen other cyclists, I had left the Sanctuary Hotel in Luang Prabang the day before, just as the first slithers of light crept over the horizon, turning the sky a murky blue. Each of us did so in a quest to complete BikingMan Laos, a 780 km self-supported race aimed at taking riders on a journey of discovery, both of this unique country, and also of their own minds. As a veteran of BikingMan races I know that in order to complete them you need more than just physical fitness, you need a deep-rooted mental strength that can battle the demons, the voices lurking around every corner ready to convince you it would be easier to stop than fight on through dark nights and growing fatigue. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
20
ADVENTURE
1
For those who want to compete at the front of these endurance races this is exactly what you must do, ride through the night when the voices are at their loudest, overcoming the ever-increasing urge to stop, to rest weary limbs and minds slowly losing their grasp on reality – it’s not unusual to start hallucinating after 500 km without sleep. But there would be no hallucinations for me, just a series of recurring nightmares as my mind played cruel tricks on me. A series of mechanical issues had left me with no choice but to abandon the race with barely 150 km ridden, a decision made all the more painful and frustrating given there was nothing I could do about it. Months of training, sacrifice and effort for nothing, my race was gone and in its
ABOUT BIKINGMAN BikingMan hosts ultra-distance cycling events around the world. The first event in Laos was held in May. See their website for details on upcoming events: bikingman.com
place a feeling of total emptiness as I set about getting back to race headquarters at Sanctuary Hotel. I woke the next morning in a cold sweat, unsure of my surroundings. Was it all just a bad dream? Sadly not. The reality hit home as I sat watching the other riders dots move around the live race GPS tracking map. That’s when the voice started. “You’re not meant to be here,” it reminded me. “I know that, but what am I meant to do about it?” I snapped back. “Move. Get out of here, away from everything.” “But where?” “Anywhere but here.” “What about the jungle? What about my bike?” The conversation went back and forth until I could no longer bear it, I grabbed my bike and set off in search of a mechanic who could fix it. I had come to Laos to ride my bike, and that’s what I intended to do. It might not have been as a part
21
of the race anymore, but that would not stop me from creating my own adventure. With my bike finally fixed I set off from Luang Prabang once more, only this time I had no direction and no sense of purpose, but it didn’t matter, simply being on my bike was enough, to have that sense of freedom that comes with cycling. So long as I kept moving I would be ok, at least that’s what I thought. But there was a problem, a little voice kept telling me to see what was happening in the race. I felt like an addict wanting another fix, even though I knew it wasn’t good for my mind, yet ultimately giving in to the craving and periodically checking the live GPS tracker. I’d find myself standing at the side of the road, squinting at my phone screen trying to decipher who was where on the map. It wouldn’t take long before I felt the familiar pangs of pain, and with it that damned voice, always there to remind me that I should be one of those dots. “You’ve got to keep moving” I told myself. With every subsequent turn of the pedals the pain and disappointment would slowly fade until eventually my mind was free from thought. In its place a growing sense of happiness that took me by surprise given how much the race had meant to me, and how raw the emotion was when I was forced to abandon.
2
1. Limestone karst panorama near Kasi 2. Children rush out to shout sabaidee to cyclists 3. Cyclists competing in BikingMan
Freed from the stress of racing I could now at least venture wherever I desired. Ahead of me a dirt track lead away from the side of the road, across an archaic looking wooden bridge and into the jungle. Curiosity got the better of me as I swung off the main road and onto the dirt track, which, once over the bridge, soon dwindled into little more than a path trodden into the baked earth. It didn’t take long before a growing sense of doubt crept into my mind. I was lost. Where there was once a path to follow, now there was nothing, just a seemingly impenetrable wall of trees and plants. I fought my way through them, all the while hoping, praying that there were no snakes lurking.
3
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
22
ADVENTURE
1
I eventually found my way into a small clearing, from where I could see the top of the hill I had been battling my way up. It didn’t take long for my mind to wander back to the race, that was until a branch came crashing down next to me, sparking me into action and headed for the brow of the hill. I must have absentmindedly strayed off course at some stage, because from my vantage point at the top I could see the path below, emerging from the trees and leading to a vast river. I could make out children playing on the banks as men in small canoes cast fishing nets into the muddy brown water. Having finally made my way back down to the path I took a moment to sit by the river, to observe life all around me, one of total contrast to my world at home, but one that reminded me happiness often comes from the simplest things in life. A sense of gratitude washed over me, to have been able to enjoy this experience, one that I would never have had if I was still racing. The following day the riders began to finish, first Jason Black, who won after a tense battle with BikingMan debutant Michael Duane, and then later, under a cloak of darkness, local rider
Thavone Phonasa, greeted by a crowd of supporters, myself included, holding flowers and Lao flags. To finish third is impressive enough, even more so when you’ve never ridden an ultra-distance event before. But then we never know what we are truly capable of until we push ourselves to new limits, and by the look of utter exhaustion on Thavone's face it’s clear he’d done exactly that. Over time more riders arrived, some finishing, others having abandoned, but all with stories to tell. My story might not have been the one I had wanted it to be, but ultra cycling has a funny way of teaching us lessons that ring true in life. With time to reflect on my experiences I came to realise that not everything in life always goes to plan, and we can either keep pedalling, or we can simply sit by the side of the road and watch as life passes us by.
2 3
1. Rural life along the cycling path 2. Cyclists begin the grueling race 3. Stunning scenery along the Ou River
SNAPSHOT
BOUN LAI HEUA FAI
THE
FIREBOAT FESTIVAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
A
t the end of Buddhist Lent, the green monsoon season draws to a close, and the harvest season be gins. To give thanks for their livelihoods and annual bounty, Lao people make merit by making offerings to the mother spirit of rivers. In Luang Prabang, this is especially magical, as the entire town is lit with colorful lanterns and candles. Temples, homes, and businesses hang candlelit lanterns instead of electric lights, giving the city a magical glow. Each village works together to construct and decorate large boats with bamboo frames covered in colored paper and lights, ranging from simpler designs to very elaborate structures featuring mythical creatures.
As dusk settles on the city, these heua fai, or fireboats, are paraded down main street from Wat That Noy to Wat Xieng Thong amid revelry and music – and in near total absence of electrical lighting. Onlookers line the sidewalks to get a glimpse of these fantastic creations in this procession. As they arrive in Wat Xieng Thong, they line up in the courtyard and are judged by local dignitaries. Then one by one, they are carried down the steps to the Mekong where they are launched into the river, offering thanks to the river and bringing good fortune to the village.
A Naga-shaped fireboat being lit up before the procession
SNAPSHOT
above: Villagers from Viengxay Village escort their naga-shaped ďŹ reboat. right: A half-giant, half-monkey dancer from the Phalak Phalam ballet troupe entertains along the procession route.
27
Locals chant and sing as they play gongs and cymbals to add to the festive mood.
Novice monks release a oating lantern into the sky at Wat Pa Phai.
SNAPSHOT
29
left: A large fireboat passes Wat Sene, as villagers accompany with offerings. above: An elaborate swan-shaped fireboat with a decorative tassel hanging from its beak makes its way down main street. right: The fireboats lined up for judging in the courtyard of Wat Xieng Thong along with crowds of onlookers.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
30
SNAPSHOT
After the judging, the boats are carried down to the Mekong where they are released into the water.
above: People also make and decorate their own kathong, or floating offerings. It is said that if a couple releases a kathong together, then their love will last forever. right: A three-headed naga fireboat is ready to launch into the river.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
32
INTO THE WILD
IN THE
FOOTSTEPS OF
GIANTS
The historical symbol of Laos gets a brighter future. TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY JORDAN BROWN / MANDALAO MORE INFO Mandalao is located 15 km outside of Luang Prabang, but you can make reservations at their office downtown. See their website at mandalaotours.com for more details.
I
n a tangled teak forest, a short drive from Luang Prabang, I cross a cold mountain stream behind a giant ma triarch elephant and a trailing tot. Majestic Mahn leads the way through trickling water ahead of three-year-old baby Kit. I pinch myself. I can’t believe I’m so close to these jungle-munching creatures as they wander the forest foraging for breakfast. Baby Kit hesitates when he sees the babbling brook, retreats, pushes ahead, and then bumps around for a different route, scattering his human observers while he searches for the confidence to pass. It’s a magical experience to watch this small pachyderm on a learning curve.
Kit is one of nine Asian elephants (and the only youngster) living on the banks of the Nam Khan River who are getting a new and happier lease of life at Mandalao. Set up by American Michael Vogler, and co-founders 2.5 years ago, Mandalao’s elephants have been rescued from logging camps and are being shown a new future without backbreaking work, and tourists riding on their backs for laughs. Mandalao offers wildlife fans a range of walks and ethical encounters all within easy access to Luang Prabang. Guide Mr. Keum tells our small group at Mandalao’s riverside location that when the Lao government shut down logging camps in 2016, the elephants were out of work. Today they live in a “five-star hotel,” Keum says, while showing us photos of the elephants prior to their welcome at Mandalao. Vogler’s ultimate aim is to send elephants to Nam Poui Protected Area on the Lao-Thai border, in a bid to ensure
33
the species’ survival. At Nam Poui around 60 wild elephants patrol the earth. Once known as the Land of a Million Elephants, Laos now counts less than 1,000 wild and captive elephants with numbers declining due to poaching, hunting, and unexploded ordnance, Keum says. “We can’t bring back one million,” Keum warns, “but we hope to increase the population to six or seven thousand.” After a safety briefing and a tip from Keum: “We can kiss the elephant but not the mahout guide!”, we cross the river on a canoe to meet some of the waiting, and hungry elephants. Thong Khoun, a 47-year-old female, is eager to snaffle the bananas we’ve brought her. When our attention is turned to other stabled elephants in the group, I spy her determination: she draws out her trunk as much as is physically possible and tips over a basket to snatch the last few bananas. I was transfixed. I couldn’t believe she was able to stretch her trunk so much. Our elephants, tails swinging, set off and we trail them, led by guide Mr. Dao who walks us into the “elephant supermarket”, the 200 ha of riverside forest, filled with flitting butterflies, which Mandalao rents from local farmers. The pace is unhurried as the elephants seek out leaves, herbs, and bamboo, stripping the forest like untamed bulldozers. We pad softly over the leaf carpet, so the sound of the forest being ripped up by elephant trunks is intriguing and alarming. Our group sticks to the path, stepping over elephant-sized prints planted in the mud, and piles of turd, but the elephants don’t give a damn about footpaths and wander all over the place farting and looking for
1
2
left: An elephant munches grass by the Khan River 1. Elephants call to each other in the jungle 2. Baby Kit, who will be returned to the wild 3. Mandalao, set in lush tropical jungle
3
their favorite snacks – a time-consuming business: elephants munch 250 kg of plants a day, drink 200 liters of water, and dump 90 kg of poo. Herd matriarch Mahn stopped in her tracks and we watched her scratch the earth with her trunk, suck up the soil, shower herself with dust, then curl up her trunk like a snail shell to yank down a creeper. We’d call it multitasking, I guess. At the end of our trek, we posed with the older females for pictures and boarded our boat back to basecamp. Over lunch of beef, vegetable curry, and fried spring rolls, we shared our favorite bits and pics from the walk. Later I met Vogler to learn more about Mandalao’s particular pachyderm approach. Mandalao’s 14 mahouts use the Human Elephant Learning Program, written by Dr. Andrew McLean, who channeled his equestrian expertise into elephants. “Kit is the first baby raised in Laos that won’t go through the traditional breaking process of putting a three-year-old elephant in a ‘crush’ cage to break its spirit,” Vogler tells me. Kit sure looks happier and bouncier for it. “The development process is similar to humans and Kit has six commands,” Vogler says. “He’s basically a 750 kg toddler. One minute he is watching a butterfly, the next he is ripping up a forest.” Mandalao’s ultimate goal is to get Kit, fathered by a wild bull, and other elephants in captivity back into the wild. Mandalao works with Prasop Tipprasert, founder of the pioneering Thai Elephant Conservation Center, and with the World Wildlife Fund in Laos, and is developing ideas including a potential new ecotourism product with the aim of ensuring a brighter future for Elephas maximus in Laos. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
34
INTO THE WILD
35
1
2
3
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
36
INTO THE WILD
追寻
巨象的脚步
1
老挝的历史象征重现生机。
的摆动着尾巴，导游DAO先生带领我们走进“大象超市”—一片沿
图片来源 JORDAN BROWN / MANDALAO
时，步伐很是悠哉。这些 大象每天要吃250公斤植物，喝200升水，
河200公顷的森林，满是飞舞的蝴蝶。这片森林由 Mandalao 从当
翻译 尹航
从
地农民那里租来。 我们发现大象在寻找树叶， 草药和竹子等食物
琅勃拉邦古城开出不远的一片柚木林
更多信息
头巨大的雌象Mahn和她的宝贝Kit。我
里处，您可以在其市中心的办公
中， 穿过一条清凉的山间小溪我遇到一
无法相信自己竟如此接近这些丛林生
物，此刻他们正在森林里寻觅早餐。
Kit是生活在南坎 (Nam Khan) 河畔的九只亚洲象
之一，他们都在Mandalao有了新的生活。两年半前，美 国人迈克尔•沃格勒（Michael Vogler）和他的联合创
始人们创立了Mandalao， 这些从大象从伐木营中获救， 新生活开始了，他们时而可以背着游客玩耍。Mandalao
为野生动物爱好者提供一系列徒步项目，客人均可从琅 勃拉邦前往。
在Mandalao河畔店，导游Keum先生告诉我们，当
老挝政府在2016年关闭伐木营时， 大象们就失业了。 今
当然，排泄物也有90公斤。
后来我见到了沃格勒，想听听 Mandalao 参与和大象相关共
Mandalao位于琅勃拉邦外15公
工作的想法。沃格勒告诉我， “在老挝的传统训练法是，当一只幼
室预订参观。有关详细信息，
弃对独立生活的向往，学会“服从”，听命于“主人”，Ki t是老挝境
请访问mandalaotours.com
1. 象夫带领大象穿过森林。 2. 象群正在享受着美丽的
大自然。
象三岁时， 把他放入一个只能站立的“紧身”笼子里， 让他彻底放 内第一只没有经历过这种折磨的幼象”，也因此，Kit看上去比其他 大象更开心。
“对于Kit的驯养更像是我们人类教育小孩子， 但是目前Kit只
被给予了六个指令而已， ”沃格勒说。 “他还是个750公斤重的宝宝。 ” Mandalao的最终目标是给予Kit和其他大象生存的能力并
放回野外。 Mandalao正在与泰国大象保护中心的创始人Prasop
Tipprasert以及老挝的世界野生动物基金会合作， 开发一种潜在
的新生态旅游产品， 以确保老挝大象的生存前景更充满希望。 让 我们祝福他们成功。
天他们住在一家“五星级酒店”，Keum说，同时向我们 展示了大象们“ 入驻”Mandalao之前的照片。
沃格勒的终极目标是将这些大象送到老泰边境的
Nam Poui保护区， 确保该物种的留存。 在Nam Poui
生活着大约60只野生大象。 Keum说， 这片被称为百万
大象的土地（万象的由来）， 现在野生和圈养大象一共不
超过1000只。 其数量的减少主要由偷猎， 狩猎和未爆弹 药造成。
“我们不能回到一百万这个数量级，”Keum说， “但
我们希望大象的数量可以增加到六七千。 ”
在一个简短的安全知识介绍后， 我们乘独木舟过河
去探访一直等待着我们的大象。 他们已经等饿了，不停
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Paksong Glory (Black Tea) is made from the rare buds of 1500-year-old tea trees. The leaves create a full golden tea with sweet and smooth flavor. It helps regulate one’s temperature and helps detoxify the body. It is a rare ancient tea treasure. 150g (5g x 30 packs)
ປາກຊ່ອງຮຸງ່ ເຮືອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນຜະລິດຕະພ�ນທ�
巴松荣（红茶）选取1500年老挝古树茶上独一的
ຂະໜາດນ�ອຍເ��ອທຽບກ�ບຜະລິດຕະພ�ນອ�ນໆ,
小紧密，伴有饱满的金黄色的茶绒茶毫，汤色黄
ຄ�ດສ�ນຍອດຊາຈາກຕ�ນຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 1500 ປີ, ເ��ງມີ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ອຸດມ � ໄ�ດ�ວຍກ�ນຫອມ ແ�ະ ເ�ັນສີທອງ
ປະກາຍ, ນ�າຊາຈະເ�ັນສີທອງດ�ງທອງຄໍາຢູ�ໃ� ຈອກ, ມີລດ � ຊາດ�ານ ແ�ະ ນຸມ � ນວນ. ຊ�ວຍປ�ບອຸນ
ຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງຊ�ວຍຂ�ບໄ��ສານພິດ ໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ, ຮ�ກສາຄວາມສ�ມດຸນຂອງຮ�າງກາຍ
芽头制作而成，外形较其他古树红茶产品更细 金状，杯中挂金边，入口甘爽，柔滑。有助于调节
体温，并促进热量和污物的排泄，维持内的生理 平衡的功效。是难得的古树茶珍品。 150g（5gx30包）
ແ�ະ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ຫາຍາກ. 150g (5gx30ຊອງ)
Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the tips and leaves of one of the ancient 300 year old trees. When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. It can be brewed over 20 times without losing its flavor. This tea is good for enhancing blood circulation, warming the abdomen and stomach, and digestion. It helps those with weak stomachs and spleens.
ທັບທີມແດງປາກຊ່ອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນໄ��ເ�ືອກ
巴松红（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中一芽二
ທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດິບ, ນ�າຊາເ�ັນ
俗，清澈明亮，可连续冲泡20道以上，香气依旧
ເ�ົາຍອດຊາ 1ຍອດພ�ອມໃ�ຊາ1ໃ�ຂອງຕ�ນຊາ
ສີແ�ງທອງໜ�າປະທ�ບໃ�, ນ�າຊາມີຄວາມໃ�,
ສາມາດຊ� ງ ໄ�� � າຍກ� ວ າ 20 ຄ� ງແ�� ລ� ດ ຊາດ ກ� ຍ� ງ ຄ� ງ ກ� ນຫອມໄ�� , ຊ� ວ ຍເ�� ມການໄ� ວຽນ
ຂອງເ�ື ອ ດໃ�ຮ� າ ງກາຍ, ສ� າ ງຄວາມອ� ບ ອຸ� ນ ,
ບໍາລຸງກະເ�າະ ແ�ະ ຊ�ວຍໃ�ການຍ�ອຍອາຫານ
叶的古树大叶为原料，汤色红橙金黄，艳而不
芳馥，有增强心脏血液循环，生热暖腹、温胃驱 寒、消食开胃的功效，适宜脾胃虚弱、体质偏寒 者长期饮用。
120g（5gx24包）
ເ�າະແ��ຄ�ນທ�ກະເ�າະ, ມ�າມອ�ອນເ�ຍ ແ�ະ ອຸນຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍຕ�າ. 120g (5gx24ຊອງ)
120g (5g x 24 packs)
Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the diphyllous and triphyllous buds of ancient 300 year old trees. When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. The taste is soft, mellow, and uniquely fragrant. 150g (150g x 1 bag)
ທັ ບ ທີ ມ ແດງປາກຊ່ ອ ງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ�� ນ ໄ��
巴松红旅游款（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中
ຂອງຍອດຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດບ ິ ,
汤色红橙金黄，艳而不俗，入口浓强鲜爽，滋味
ເ�ືອກເ�ົາ 1 ຍອດສອງໃ� ແ�ະ 1 ຍອດສາມໃ�
ນ�າຊາເ�ັນສີແ�ງທອງປະກາຍ ແ�ະ ໜ�າປະ ທ�ບໃ�, ມີລດ � ຊາດທ�ສ�ດໄ��ມ, ມີຄວາມນຸມ � ນວນ, ກ�ມກ�ອມ, ມີຄວາມຫອມທ�ເ�ັນເ�ກະລ�ກ. 150g (150gx1ຖົງ)
一芽二叶，一芽三叶的古树大叶为原料，性温， 醇厚顺滑，生津速度快，香气融合度高，适宜体 质偏寒者长期饮用。 150g（150gx1包）
The perfect encounter between primitive and pure
SECRETS of the
STONE TEMPLE Wat Phou reveals its true beauty and history for those who make time to visit. TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
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T
A worshiper prays to Buddha in Wat Phou's central sanctuary
iny Champasak, gateway to a small hillside temple complex of outsized spiritual importance, lies in one of the most en chanting spots in all of Laos. Travelers I met tell me they’re skipping a visit to Champasak to head straight from Pakse to the hammocks of the 4,000 islands in the lower Mekong River. I tell them they’re missing a trick. This pretty river-facing town of Buddhist temples, palms, low-slung homes, shophouses, the odd French-influenced royal palace, and a scattering of shops, cafés, and restaurants, is a relaxing spot to kick back in after visiting nearby UNESCO-protected Wat Phou. Wat Phou sits in the shadow of a holy mountain shaped like a linga – Lingaparvata – symbolizing the Hindu god Shiva. Occupied from the 7th century, with its main Khmer structures built between the 11th and 13th centuries, it has been visited by Shiva, Buddhist, and animist pilgrims for centuries. It only came to western attention in the 1860s when Frenchmen of the Mekong Exploration Commission discovered its beauty. It must have been hugely exciting to come across such jungle-choked artistry in the wilds of Southeast Asia. Because of terracing and layout, and jungle trees, grass, and flowers, modern-day pilgrims don’t get to glimpse the entire site at once. Each step is unwrapped, so to speak, as visitors climb higher towards the main sanctuary. The first encounter is two enormous basins of water before approaching two copper-toned sandstone ornamented pavilions whose use still baffles archaeologists. Beyond, visitors ascend a narrow, creased central staircase, graced by frangipani trees and blossoms, which feels like the pathway to some kind of spiritual enlightenment. It’s what the Khmer kings had planned, David Bazin, a research assistant to site archaeologists, tells me. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
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“The Hindu religion, the site itself, and the spiritual power was used to influence and inspire people,” he explains. The complex at Wat Phou represented their spiritual universe in stone. It also appears not to have been a mere vassal state to the larger Angkor Wat complex in Cambodia some 240 kilometers away. Recent research sheds new light on Wat Phou’s raison d'être. Bazin tells me that between the 9th and 13th centuries the kings of Angkor supported Wat Phou. Intensely detailed stele inscriptions, uncovered in recent year, reveal that weapons, rice, and money were sent in support of this distant site. As we climb to the top of the weathered steps and stroll into the shade of a vast mango tree, Bazin explains: “This was possibly the first kingdom of the Khmer empire and a very spiritual place with the linga mountain.” As we approach the main Hinduturned-Buddhist sanctuary beyond the top of the staircase, its doorway graced with a beautiful carving of Indra on a three-headed
MORE INFO Look out for new book 'Vat Phu, The Mountain of Shiva, Convergence between Science and Religion' by Italian archaeologist Roberto Marzano. Wat Phou Festival next takes place from 6–8 Feb. 2020. GETTING THERE Lao Airlines flies to Pakse regularly from Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Bangkok, and Siem Reap. 1. A bas-relief of Indra riding a three-headed elephant 2. A stone structure used for ceremonial purposes 3. A carving of an elephant on the highest tier of Wat Phou 4 & 5. Devotees collecting water from the sacred spring
elephant, I sense this. Inside the sanctuary are large Buddha statues, and behind them, a holy chamber. From the cliff face beyond this chamber trickles holy spring water which flowed through channels into the chamber and over a carved linga and out through the side of the building. The chamber is inaccessible now and propped up by scaffolding. Up here in the shadow of a vast mango tree, and with a glimpse of the milk chocolate lick of the Mekong visible in the distance, it feels like a secret, magical place. After visiting the mostly unshaded ruins, cool off at the verdant River Resort where you can sink into its turquoise infinity pool and watch life pootle by on Mekong currents. Later, head out by tuk-tuk, or bicycle, on a 10-minute ride to Champasak Spa for a soothing massage. Book a ticket to catch a shadow puppet theatre performance accompanied by a live music ensemble. Grab a sundowner at a café and watch river life go by bankside, or town life roadside, where men sell baguettes hanging in bags on their bicycles, and tweeting birds flit from louvered shutters to frangipani. Dine in Nakhorn Café’s pretty garden, and relax with a Beerlao. The overrun river islands in the south can wait.
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纪到13世纪之间，吴哥国王供养了瓦普寺。近年来发现的 石刻细节表明，武器、大米和金钱都被送到此处，用来扶 持这个遥远的地方。
当我们爬到斑驳台阶的顶端，漫步到巨大的芒果树的树 荫下时，Bazin解释说： “这可能是高棉帝国的第一个王 国，也是一座精神意义重大的林伽圣山。”当我们跨过台 阶顶端，抵达那个以前归属印度教，现在则是属于佛教的
大殿，看到它的门口刻有立于一头三头大象之上的因陀 罗的神像，我体会到了。
在大殿中放有大型佛像，在佛像背后有一间密室，有从峭 壁来的泉水缓缓流入房间，这泉水绕着林伽，再从房间的 另外一面流出。这间密室现在因被手脚架固定起来，无法
进到内部。从上面往下看，湄公河看起来像一条细小的棕 色线，而瓦普寺则是一个神秘神奇的地方。
参观完遗迹后，可以在占巴塞镇放松身心，在咖啡馆里点
一杯咖啡，看看当地的生活，男人们在自行车上挂着装着
法棍的袋子。还可以边喝老挝啤酒便欣赏河景，而南部的 四千美岛之旅还可以再往后推些时日。
2
老挝粘土艺术家在全球艺术界崭露 头角 翻译 : 尹航 图片来源：PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
位于老挝最迷人的地方之一的占巴塞小镇，是通往一座 具有重要精神意义的小山坡寺庙建筑群的门户。我所遇 到的旅行者和我说他们都是忽略占巴塞，直接从巴色前 往湄公河的上的四千美岛。我告知他们，其实他们错过
1.
3
浅浮雕：因陀罗神骑着
三头象—ERAWAN。
2. 用于仪式的美丽石结构。 3. 一头在瓦普庙最高层的
大象雕刻。
4. 信徒们从圣泉取水。 5. 当地人取回圣水在自家
的各种仪式使用。
了。这个漂亮的河畔小镇拥有着佛教寺庙，棕榈树，传统
住宅，还有一些法式风格的房屋，以及各种商店，咖啡馆
和餐馆，是在游览完附近的那座受联合国教科文组织保 护的瓦普寺后放松身心的绝佳之地。
瓦普寺坐落在一座形似林伽的圣山上，林伽象征着印度 教的湿婆神。它从7世纪开始被占领，主要的高棉建筑 建于11世纪到13世纪之间，几个世纪以来，湿婆、佛教
徒和万物有灵论者的朝圣者都来这里参观。直到19世 纪60年代，湄公河勘探委员会 (Mekong Exploration Commission) 的法国人发现了它的美丽之处，它才为西
方所知。在东南亚的荒野中发现这样一片丛林覆盖的废 墟一定非常令人兴奋。
4
由于其布局，现代朝圣者不能立刻一睹全貌。随着参观者
朝着大殿方向，拾级而上的每一步都会慢慢揭开它的面 纱。在抵达两座棕色砂岩亭子的之前的底层有两个巨大 的水池，其使用用途仍然让考古学家困惑。之后，参观者 爬上一个狭窄的台阶，占巴树木和占巴花围绕两旁，感觉 就像通往某种精神启迪的道路。
“这是高棉国王设计的”，现场考古学家的研究助理
David Bazin 告诉我。
印度教它的场地本身和精神力量都被用来影响和激励人 们， “他解释道
佛寺的建筑群用石头代表了他们的精神世界。它也是240
公里外柬埔寨更大的吴哥窟建筑群的卫星。最近的研究 对瓦普寺的用途提供了新的线索。Bazin告诉我说，在9世
5
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
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1 2
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NIGHTLIFE
A
SHOT IN THE DARK There’s something going down in Vientiane’s cocktail scene. TEXT BY DUANGTAVANH OUDOMCHITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY BELLE J / PHOONSAB THEVONGSA MORE INFO Belle J is on Souphanouvong Road in Vientiane. It is open daily. The ground floor is open from 10 am – 5 pm. The upstairs lounge is open from 7 pm – 1 am.
W
hen it comes to finding your passion, there’s something for everyone. For the owners of Belle J, that something is cocktails. This calling has led them to open a bar in Vientiane, one that has a different ambiance to other night spots in town. Food and drink, prepared with high-quality ingredients, is a perfect mix with the refined tastes of the owners, creating the relaxed environment that is at the core of the entire Belle J concept. The name, Belle J, is from the French, belle journée or ‘beautiful day’. The logo
is the image of a traditional jar, the kind that could be used to store precious items. The family believes that it represents the accumulation of wealth. Belle J’s ground floor serves breakfast and lunch, while in the evenings, the upstairs opens as a lounge. The breakfast and lunch menus comprise mainly Asian favorites, such as pho in a tom yum broth and pad Thai. These can be finished off with healthy fruit smoothies and coffee, or delectable cakes to end the meal on a sweet note. In the evenings, the upper floor opens into a chill-out space where you can enjoy the relaxed ambiance with your friends, with hip hop and R&B tracks. This kind of atmosphere is unlike any other in Vientiane. But while Belle J’s décor is top notch and the ingredients used in the food and drinks are all of superior quality, the prices are more reasonable than you would expect in a place of this caliber.
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Each floor of the building is decorated differently. The ground floor is tastefully bright, colorful, and modern. The walls are painted with lotus motifs, which are flowers prized by the owners. The upper floor is shaded in bold tones, adorned in lights that change colors depending on the mood of the evening. There are also many spots perfect for taking photos with friends. The centerpiece of the upper floor is a large white horse, which is also another symbol of this restaurant, prominently displayed in the center of the room. Shots are the most popular drink at Belle J. The premier shot here is the Galaxy Shot, which, apart from being delicious and potent, looks a bit like the Milky Way. It has inspired a saying, “Let this shot lead the way”. The ingredients are chosen primarily for their quality, and many of the alcohols are imported, as the owners want clients to enjoy the finest things. The owaners are also behind the innovative cocktails that will inspire you to come back and try more. “Our cocktail menu is not static, but continues to develop to inspire our guests,” says the owner.
1 left: The bar of Belle J 1. The chill vibes of the comfortable lounge 2. The Galaxy Shot 3. Steaks are a specialty at Belle J 4. The bright contemporary downstairs area
2
“OUR COCKTAIL MENU IS NOT STATIC, BUT CONTINUES TO DEVELOP TO INSPIRE OUR GUESTS”
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4 SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
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NIGHTLIFE
新酒廊酒吧 在万象享用最独特的饮品。
落户万象
翻译 尹航
图片来源 BELLE J / PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
每
个 人 都 有 各 自 的 不 同 风 格 。对 于 贝 利
更多信息
呼唤并得以此施展自己的能力。创始人
每日营业，一层营业时间为早10
（ J Belly J），他们寻觅到了鸡尾酒的艺术 们决定创建一个与万象其他酒吧不同的
酒廊空间。贝利J的核心概念是，在拥有艺术品味的休闲 环境中享用高品质的餐食和饮品。
贝利 J这个名字源自法语，la belle journée或美好
的一天。名称上方商标是个传统的用于存放珍贵物品的 罐子。这个家族认为它代表着财富的积累。
贝利 J的一楼供应早餐和午餐，而在晚上，楼上则作
为酒廊开放。早餐和午餐菜单主要是亚洲美食，如冬阴功 汤米粉，泰式炒粉。还有水果奶昔，咖啡等健康饮品及饭
贝拉J 坐落于万象苏发努翁路。 点至晚5点，二层酒廊区营业时间 为晚7点至次日凌晨1点。
后甜点。在晚上，二层是一个休闲空间，您可以在这里与朋友一起
享受轻松的氛围，享受嘻哈和R＆B音乐。这种氛围在万象确实很罕 见。贝利 J不仅装饰精致，食品和饮料的品质也很高，价格合理。
餐厅的每层装饰都不同。一楼高雅明亮，色彩缤纷，现代。墙壁
上涂有老板精选的莲花图案。楼上采用大胆的色调，装饰灯光可根
据夜晚的情绪不断变换。还有很多景点非常适合与朋友拍照。楼上 的正中心是一匹大白马，这也是这家餐厅的另一个象征。
“盎司杯饮品”是贝利 J最受欢迎的饮品。这里的精品盎司杯
产品是Galaxy Shot，它美丽而多彩，看起来有点像银河系。它激发
了一种说法： “让这杯引领潮流”。它的特殊之处在于它是一种浓烈 的饮料，但非常顺口。
所有原料是根据其品质特别挑选的，许多酒精都是进口的，因
为老板希望客户享受最好的东西。鸡尾酒配方的开发也来自老板
们的灵感。他们做了几个笔记，让调酒师发挥他的魔力，使梦想成 为现实。他的艺术天赋不仅创造了引人注目的艺术，而且还有欲罢 不能的美味组合。
“我们的鸡尾酒菜单不是一成不变的，而是不断创新来满足
客人的需求”贝利 J.的老板说道。
49
1
2
3
“我们的鸡尾酒菜单不是一 成不变的，而是不断创
新来满足客人的需求”
左：白马雕像在吧台的 正中间。
1. 夜晚的酒廊。 2. 现代餐馆区。 3. 辣味沙拉。
Artisan Designer
(18k Gold Jewelry)
Vientiane, Lao PDR (Shop is behind Wat Ong Teu)
Photo © Mary Jane
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STYLE
FROM TRADITIONAL TO PRÊT À PORTER Can a simple piece of cloth have a fashion moment? “Mais, oui! Yes, indeed,” says our new Style Columnist, Vanida Phimphrachanh. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARY JANE MODELLING BY BOBEY PHANALASY TEXT BY VANIDA PHIMPHRACHANH & DOMINIQUE LE ROUX
I
t’s time to recalibrate our notions about Lao handicrafts, and reinvigorate our wardrobes and household décor with a few timeless pieces. Handwoven and naturally dyed textiles can be oh-so contemporary. Lao designers have an eye for style, updating Lao ancestral crafts with fresh 21st century twists. Witness easy-wearing pleated skirts, or the traditional sinh revamped by statement accessories stitched from old-school weaves. And the most new-school apartment will relish pops of color-blocked cushions or contemporary ikat’s geometric designs. In today’s global consciousness, handcrafted products are becoming ever-more fashionable as part of a sustainable vision of luxury. Choosing the artisan-made says something about you: that you respect and comprehend the long and layered process of crafting something by hand. Whether it’s humble indigo-dyed cotton from Luang Namtha, or the haute couture of silken brocade with gold threads from Lyon’s old family Maison Carlhian, handwoven shows your savoir faire. Made in Laos: Crafted with time and consciousness, worn with love, used with respect.
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Handwoven silk stole in indigo with gold brocade 4 400 000 LAK Lao skirt from matching patterned silk, price on demand Both by Oudone Precious Silk, Vientiane and also available at Birds Follow Spring oudone.com/silk Instagram: @OudonePreciousSilk madameoudone@gmail.com
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
52
STYLE
Art of Southeast Asian Textiles: The Tilleke & Gibbins Collections, available at Monument Books Tai skirt border from Xieng Khouang Province, 350 000 LAK Katu skirt panel from Sekong province, price on demand Tai Daeng blanket fabric from Houaphan province, 450 000 LAK Naga mantle or wrap, price on demand Available in Luang Prabang at Asiama shop asiama.fr Instagram: @phaalao ‘Miming’ armchair by Birds Follow Spring, $350 Facebook: birdsfollowspring Instagram: @birdsfollowspring
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Belt by Mei Mei, 395 000 LAK
Scarves with ikat weaving by Lao Textiles
Facebook: Femei by Livanna Koo
by Carol Cassidy, from 1 000 000 LAK
Skirt by Tamong design, 660 000 LAK
Available at Carol Cassidy shop in Vientiane
Facebook: Elegant.Laos
laotextiles.com
Square 16x16 inch color-blocked cushions, 160 000 LAK Head cushion cover, 150 000 LAK By Saya Brand, Vientiane SAYA is a natural product brand based in Laos that produces and distributes textile products to empower women in small weaving communities throughout Laos. While aiming to showcase the beauty of Laos through their textile products, SAYA wants to be part of economically empowering and improving the lives of women in weaving communities in rural areas of Laos Facebook: sayabrandlao Bench by Birds Follow Spring in recycled wood, $325
Vanida Phimphrachanh brings a Parisian eye and Asian soul to her work in style and design at Birds Follow Spring, the family artisanal design boutique in Vientiane, where she collaborates with goldsmiths, silk producers and seamstresses to interweave contemporary perspective with Lao tradition. Vanida can be contacted at vanida@birdsfollowspring.com.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
56
CLOSE-UP
GOING
BANANAS
Quality comes ямБrst at the Meuang Nong banana plantation. TEXT BY JULIA CASE-LEVINE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
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The beautiful greenery of the banana plantation
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
58
CLOSE-UP
I
n Meuang Nong, banana plants sprawl as far as the eye can see, leafy and vibrant green, until they meet with the wild shrubbery of surrounding mountains. In the fields, one planter gingerly inspects a comb while another diligently takes notes, recording the quality and growth of plants. Along with a crew of several other farmers, they make their way across dozens of rows. The banana plantation is an investment by Souk Houng Heang Company, whose goal is to create environmentally friendly and sustainable farms, using modern technology in production, as well as harvesting the silkiest, most flavorful bananas possible. Souk Houng Heang works in cooperation with Nafoods Group, a worldwide agricultural producer and exporter from Vietnam,
“WE TREAT OUR BANANAS HOW WE TREAT THE FOOD WE EAT EVERY DAY WITH OUR FAMILY.” to distribute Lao bananas to European countries and process them for other products. “We treat our bananas how we treat the food we eat every day with our family,” says Toomkham Phoungmachan, the Lao representative of Nafoods Group.
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“For us, the quality is personal, because it’s the food we eat ourselves and share with the people we love.” Banana plantations have not always had the best reputation in Laos – and understandably, as they have historically failed their local communities. Foreign-owned banana plantations have been known for polluting water sources, killing fish and other animals, and leaving workers in poor health due to chemical exposure. In 2017, banana plantations became so hazardous to workers that the government banned the expansion of these farms outright. Part of the mission by embarked on by Nafoods and Souk Houng Heang is to end the practice of excessive chemical use – abuse of herbicides, fertilizers, nutrients and insecticides – that cause workers to fall ill with respiratory and liver problems. “We have worked hard to make sure that farmers will be happy and healthy, and have no issues with chemical overuse,” explains Phoungmachan. “If you don’t use the right plantation system – from the right chemicals during seeding to the proper temperature storage – this affects everyone from the banana planters to the consumers.” Souk Houng Heang also hopes to provide safe, sustainable job opportunities to areas where many rely on work from drug trafficking and illegal wood-cutting, industries damaging both to their communities and the environment. “We want to create a business that strengthens the community, drives the local economy, and creates secure and safe employment,” says Phoungmachan. Despite Nafoods’ focus on supporting local communities, finding the right place for their farms hasn’t been easy. Meeting their standards requires a procedural over-
left: Plantation workers inspect the ripening fruit below: The banana plantation fits in nicely with the beautiful landscape
BREAKFAST & BRUNCH Available 7.00 am – 2.00 pm on weekends On the 10th floor of the Capitol Residence Hotel, Vientiane
haul – one many farm-owners aren’t prepared to make. From maintaining a precise temperature control during storing to the careful cataloguing of plants farmers are performing today, Nafoods requires farmers to exercise an extra level of vigilance in each step of their production. “Because we are a clean business, there are so many different things owners must comply with and change about their farms,” Phoungmachan explains. “So we are so grateful to our partners and thankful that we have finally found the right ones.” It may be a slow, laborious process of change – but the payoff could be huge. As Phoungmachan says, “I hope one day I’ll see the Lao banana stamped safe and clean, and sold in grocery stores around the world.”
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CLOSE-UP
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
EXTREME SOUTHERN LAOS TEXT BY OUTHAY KHAMSOMPHOU & SOMMITH PHUNYATHONE PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ
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S
outhern Laos is famous for its relaxed way of life and laid-back, easy charm. Yet thrill-seekers, who crave adventure activities that set the pulse racing, will discover a land of opportunity to add to their bucket lists. We’ve rounded up the most incredible activities to take your travel adventures to the max – in the most unexpected places. If you are planning the trip of a lifetime, why not see all of Laos from south to north on a dirt bike or a 4x4 truck? Organized by Lao Adventure Tours, this 14-day journey takes you from Southern Laos to Luang Prabang, and finally Vientiane; riding through “war trails” and sections of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The journey starts in Pakse before heading 153 kilometers south to Attapeu. On the next day, ride another 176 kilometers to Dak Cheung in Sekong to see a section of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Then, you travel through mountains and river crossings to Salavan before heading to other parts of Laos. The distance of 2,590 kilometers is mostly unpaved and is more suited for moderate to experienced riders. Whether you are doing the big or small version of the Bolaven Loop – another must-do adventure activity in Southern Laos – head out on a motorbike and you will most likely end up at Ban Saen Nang village at KM84. In this village you will find several famous waterfalls such as: Tad Hang, Tad Lo, and Tad Soung. This area is just perfect for relaxing after a long day on a bike (Fandee Guesthouse and Tadlo Lodge are crowd favorites). Swimming is allowed on some waterfalls and treks through stunning scenery to experience local life in ethnic villages are possible. While in Salavan, why not do some spelunking? If you decide to take a detour, about 30 km from Salavan is the recently developed Phouphasouk National Park. If you are new to cave exploration, you can try the Kabae and Din caves first. Being the most tourist-ready, there are now proper pathways and lighting inside the Kabae cave. If you’re visiting Southern Laos from June to December, a famous green season adventure activity
The Southern Rise by Lao Adv Tours
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2019
64
SOUTHERN LAOS
1 1
is kayaking at the Houy Bang Lieng in Bachieng Chaleunsouk District. Organized by Green Discovery, this 5-hour activity lets you explore the stunning scenery of Dong Hua Sao National Protected Area. Paddle downstream to experience different intensities of rapids and immerse yourself in the wilderness of lush forests, waterfalls, and friendly smiles from local villagers fishing on the riverbank. Running all day from 8.30 am until 5.00 pm in the afternoon your endurance will surely be tested with kayaking a total distance of 15 kilometers. However, in the dry season the tour can also be less intense, even family-friendly with children as young as 12 years old – but don’t forget to bring a hat and sunscreen. Special thanks to laoadvtours.com, Green Discovery, and the local Information, Culture, and Tourism (ICT) office of Salavan for their cooperation.
MORE INFO To learn more about the Bolaven Loop and other highlights of Southern Laos, visit southern-laos.com GETTING THERE Southern Laos is easily accessed via Pakse airport, serviced by frequent flights from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Bangkok, Siem Reap, and Ho Chi Minh City.
2
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老挝狂野南部
翻译 : 尹航 图片来源：SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ
老挝南部，以其轻松、悠闲的生活方式而闻名。然而，渴望
刺激的探险者们也发现老挝南部是个充满可能性的冒险 之地。我们策划了一系列很赞的项目，将您的旅行冒险活
动在最意想不到的地方发挥到极致。我们将骑行或4*4穿
梭在色空省著名的胡志明小道。参观波罗芬高原环道周 边的瀑布。波罗芬环道是老挝南部探险的必选项目，无论
您是选择大圈还是小圈，乘摩托车出发，可能最终会到达
84公里处的Saen Nang村。 在这个村庄，你会发现几个
著名的瀑布，如：Tad Hang，Tad Lo和Tad Soung。经 过一天漫长的骑行后，这里非常适合放松身心。一些瀑布 允许游泳，也可以徒步穿过迷人的风景区，体验少数民族 村庄的生活方式。还可以在沙拉湾省Phouphasouk国家 公园参观洞穴。
到达：从万象，琅勃拉邦，曼谷，暹粒和胡志明市均可直飞，轻松抵 达老挝南部。
3 1. Inside the Din cave (Photo from ICT office of Salavan) 2. The road less traveled (Photo by Lao Adv Tours) 3. Tad Hang Waterfall (Photo by Bart Verweij) 4. Kayaking on Houy Bang Lieng (Photo from Green Discovery) 4
更多信息：要了解有关波罗芬环道及老挝南部其他亮点的更多信 息，请访问southern-laos.com。
on the
air
UPDATES
LAO AIRLINES NEWS | TIMETABLES | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES
*
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SUMMER TIMETABLE 2019
09:30
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CONTACT INFORMATION Domestic Office
DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL AIR CARGO SERVICE
· Luangprabang, Cargo Office
071 254158
· Pakse, Cargo Office
031 251410
· Savannakhet, Cargo Office
041 212140
· Luangnumtha, Cargo Office
086 312053
· Oudomxay , Cargo Office
081 212739
· Xiengkhouang, Cargo Office
061 312177
International Branch Thailand P. T. Air Cargo Tel: +6621849600 E-mail: ptabkk@ptacargo.com Vietnam Indo-Trans Logistic Corporation
·
Office hours Monday - Sunday
·
8:00 –17:00 (Out-Bound)
·
8:00 –20:00 (Delivery)
TEL: +84 24 3850 1336,+848948 6888 E-mail: cindy.hang@itlavs.com China Hongda, Guangzhou Tel: +86 20 86273652 E-mail: gzzhhd@vip.163.com On Time Express, Guangzhou
Wattay International Airport
Tel: +86 20 87320492
Lao Airlines
E-mail: stephen.mak@chq.ontime-express.com
Cargo Department
Yunnan Jet International logistic, Kunming
TEL:
Tel: +86 871-6146655/2211 Email: janetliu@jetget.com.cn
+85621 513 250 +85621 512 010 E-Mail: cargo@laoairlines.com vteffqv@laoairlines.com Facebook : CARGO Lao airlines
Korea Anam Air Service, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82-2-757-9181 E-mail: jrseo@wbas.co.kr
Lao Airlines
HOT LINE
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LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS
WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ
LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su
10:30
-
12:30
QV811
07:40
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Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25
PAKSE
13:25
QV535
09:25
09:45
1
ບາງກອກ -
10:55
QV223
AT7
0
ໂຮຈີມິນ -
11:20
QV515
AT7
0
ສຽມຣຽບ
> SIEMREAP
SAVANNAKHET
A320
DAY
D
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su
1
ສິງກະໂປ W F Su
14
Transit (VTE) Arr
> HO CHI MINH T Th S
0
Dep. 09:30
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
AT7
ສິງກະໂປ
> SINGAPORE W F Su
S.
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
11
ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S
12
ສຽມຣຽບ
Daily
13:00
-
14:00
QV513
AT7
0
Daily
14
T Th
08:55
-
09:55
QV511
AT7
0
T Th
10
ບາງກອກ
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
08:25
-
Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55
10:55
QV223
AT7
1
Dep. 09:25
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
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VIENTIANE
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
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ຫຼວງພະບາງ
> LUANGPRABANG
DAY
D
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
Daily
09:10
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QV111
AT7
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M T Th S
07
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A320
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> LUANGNAMTHA
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ
*:
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FLIGHT ROUTES
WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
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ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ
LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su
10:30
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12:30
QV811
07:40
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Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25
PAKSE
13:25
QV535
09:25
09:45
1
ບາງກອກ -
10:55
QV223
AT7
0
ໂຮຈີມິນ -
11:20
QV515
AT7 0 DOMESTIC
ROUTES
ສຽມຣຽບ
> SIEMREAP
SAVANNAKHET
A320
DAY
D
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su
1
ສິງກະໂປ W F Su
14
Transit (VTE) Arr
> HO CHI MINH T Th S
0
Dep. 09:30
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
AT7
ສິງກະໂປ
> SINGAPORE W F Su
S.
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
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ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S
12
ສຽມຣຽບ
Daily
13:00
-
14:00
QV513
AT7
0
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14
T Th
08:55
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QV511
AT7
0
T Th
10
ບາງກອກ
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
08:25
-
Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55
10:55
QV223
AT7
1
Dep. 09:25
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
1
Transit (PKZ) Arr
DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY
VIENTIANE
FLIGHT ROUTES
DEP.
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FLIGHT NO.
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ຫຼວງພະບາງ
> LUANGPRABANG
DAY
D
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
Daily
09:10
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10:00
QV111
AT7
0
M T Th S
07
Daily
11:30
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12:15
QV101
A320
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W F Su
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T W Th S Su 13:00
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QV105
A320
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T W Th S Su
14
M T Th S
17:00
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QV103
A320
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W F Su
17:00
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17:45
QV536
A320
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T Th S
18
> LUANGNAMTHA
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
LAO AIRLINES OFFICES
INTERNATIONAL OFFICES
DOMESTIC OFFICES
Bangkok
Vientiane (VTE)
Town Office 491/17 ground Fl, Silom Plaza, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel: (66-2) 236 9822 / (66-2) 236 9823 / (66-2) 237 8044 Fax: (66-2) 236 9821 Email: bkkrrqv@ksc.th.com Suvarnabhumi Airport 2nd Floor of AOB building, Room No. Z010 Tel: (66-2) 134 2006 to 2008 Fax: (66-2) 134 2009
Chiangmai
2/107 Ratchaphruek, Huaykaew Road, Amphoe Muang, Chiangmai 50300, Thailand Tel: (66-53) 223 401, Fax: (66-53) 223 400 Email: qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th
Hanoi
03 Lieu Giai Str, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: (84-4) 394 25362, Fax: (84-4) 394 25363 Email: laoairlines.han@fpt.vn / qvhan@laoairlines.com
Hochiminh
11A Song Da, Dist Tan Binh, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84) 912 070 045 Email: qvsgn@laoairlines.com
Ticketing and Reservation Office Tel: (856-21) 212051-54 or 1626 Email: vtersqv@laoairlines.com / vtessqv@laoairlines.com onlinebooking@laoairlines.com Airport Offices Tel: (856-21) 513032
Luang Prabang (LPQ)
Town Office Tel: (856-71) 212172, Fax: (856-71) 212406 Email: lpqssqv@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-71) 212173, Fax: (856-71) 252264 Email: lpa@laoairlines.com
Xiengkhouang (XKH)
Town Office Tel: (856-61) 312027, Fax: (856-61) 312487 Email: xkh@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-61) 312177
Luang Namtha (LXG)
Phnompenh
58 B Sihanouk Avenue, Phnompenh, Cambodia Tel: (855-23) 222956 / (855-23) 216 563, Fax: (855-23) 216 563 Email: laoairlines.qvpnh@online.com.kh
Town Office Luangnamtha rd., Nongbouavieng Village, Luangnamtha Province Tel: (856-86) 212072 / 212186, Fax: (856-86) 212073 Email: lxg@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-86) 312180, 312053
Siem Reap
Oudomsay (ODY)
N.C10,C12, Angkor Shopping Acade National Road 6, Kruos Village, Svay Dangkum Commune, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia Tel: (855-63) 963169, Fax: (855-63) 963 283 | Skype ID: helpdesk_qvrep Email: qvreptkt@laoairlines.com
Kunming
No52 East Dong Feng Road, Kunming Yunnan, China Tel: (86-871) 63125748 / (86)-13987182913 Email: Kunming@laoairlines.com
Guangzhou
Room 1208,12 floor, Main tower, Guangdong International Building, 339 Huanshi Dong Road, Guangzhou, China P.C: 510098 Tel: (8620) 838 840 85, Fax: (8620) 838 840 95 Email: canqv@laoairlines.com
Jing Hong
Ground Floor King Land Hotel, 6 Jing De Road, Jing Hong Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China Tel: (86-692) 12199515 / (0086) 13988136962 Fax: (86-692) 12199515 Email: qvjhg@laoairlines.com
Seoul
Gwang Hwa Mun Centre Point Building 5F31SaeMunAn-Ro 5-gil (Doryum-dong 65) Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: (82-2) 6262-0808,0809,0810 / (82-2) 6262-0800,0811,0822 / (82-2) 6262-0819 Fax: (82-2) 6262-0844 Email: ticketing.sel@laoairlines.com
Tel: (856-81) 312047, 312146, Fax: (856-81) 212229 Email: ody@laoairlines.com
Savannakhet (ZVK)
Dongdamdouan Village, Khaysonephomvihane District, Savannakhet Province Tel: (856-41) 212140, 252198, Fax: (856-41) 251060 Email: zvk@laoairlines.com
Pakse (PKZ)
11 Road, Phatthana Lakmueng Village, Pakse District, Champasak Province Tel: (856-31) 212252, Fax: (856-31) 212751 Email: pkz@laoairlines.com
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