Champa Meuanglao: September / October 2020

SOUTHERN LAOS An Epic Bolaven Road Trip

FLYING TO NEW HEIGHTS New President of Lao Airlines Mr. Khamla Phommavanh

PHOU YA KHA Exploring Oudomxay’s Rocky Mountains

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

On the occasion of my appointment as the new president of Lao Airlines, I hold the development and safety of Lao Airlines at the highest of importance. I hope passengers will be proud of our national carrier and remain focused on navigating through the current difďŹ culties in global travel.

October and November bring the end of Buddhist Lent, as well as That Luang Festival, and I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our passengers happiness and health during this festive time in Laos.

On behalf of the board of directors and all of the staff of Lao Airlines, thank you for choosing us, as we are very experienced with international standards, and we are committed to serving you.

Safe travels.

With highest respect, Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello readers, Welcome to the September-October issue of Champa Meuanglao.

In this issue we are pleased to focus exclusively on the beauty and diversity of travel destinations in Laos.

Get to know Lao Airlines’ new president in an exclusive interview.

One of Laos’ most beautiful festivals is in October this year, so plan to visit Luang Prabang for the Fireboat Festival at the end of Buddhist Lent.

Join us on an adventure to the recently explored Phou Ya Kha in Oudomxay Province. Explore the healthy side of Lao food.

Learn how to spend a long weekend in Savannakhet and also see the highlights of the famous Bolaven Loop.

There is a lot to be explored in Laos!

Happy Reading!

The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team

COVER IMAGE Starry night on Phou Ya Kha summit Photo by Phoonsab Thevongsa

PUBLISHING Editor In Chief Editors

Managing Editor Contributing Editor Creative Director Assistant Designer

In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.

Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng

Contributing Writers

Benny Omar Dalaphone Pholsena Dyan Barutzki Francis Savankham

Head Photographer

Phoonsab Thevongsa

Contributing Photographers

Bart Verweij

ADVISORY BOARD Khamla Phommavanh President Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Manager

Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578

Sales & Marketing Executive

Souphaphone Insixiengmay souphaphone.insixiengmay@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55471337

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos

RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved. Copyright © 2020 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

nal o i t p Exce dent i s e R Lao ions t o m Pro

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USD45

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p e r n ig h t in D e lu x e r o om

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Riversi de Sala Spa

Restaurant du Crabe d’Or

Riverside Boutique Resort & Restaurant du Crabe d’Or - Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng, Vientiane Province, Lao PDR www.riversidevangvieng.com

Facebook.com/Riversidevangvieng

info@riversidevangvieng.com

T +856 (0) 23 511 726-8

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

48

38 58

26

56 34 10

12

14

WHAT'S ON

FOOD CAPITAL

MADE IN LAOS

Our guide to events

The foodie's guide

Showcasing the best

in Laos

to Vientiane

Lao products

16

20

26

34

38

CITYSCAPE

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

TRAVEL

FLAVORS

SOUTHERN LAOS

48 hours in Savannakhet

Lao Airlines' new

Luang Prabang's

The healthier side

An epic Bolaven road trip

president Mr. Khamla

Fireboat Festival

of Lao cuisine

48

56

58

65

SNAPSHOT

INSIGHTS

LAO CULTURE

ON THE AIR

Exploring Oudomxay’s

Supporting livelihoods

The That Luang Festival

Lao Airlines information

rocky mountains

in agriculture

Phommavanh

MAKING EUROPE THE PREFERRED

BUSINESS PARTNER

OF LAO PDR

OUR SERVICES

ADVOCACY NETWORKING RECEPTIONS TRAININGS AND SEMINARS CONTACT AND BUSINESS MATCHING ADVERTISING CONTACT US: +856-21 264 330

contact@eccil.org

EurochamLaos

ECCIL

www.eccil.org

10

WHAT'S ON

WHAT'S ON?

Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time.

Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!

Dates and activities may be subject to change during the Covid-19 pandemic situation

2

SEPTEMBER

NATIONWIDE

HOR KHAO SALAK

3

OCTOBER

2–4 9–10

OCTOBER

HUEAN CHAN HERITAGE, LUANGPRABANG

VIENTIANE

BOAT RACING FESTIVAL

Laos’ largest boat race occurs at Wat Chan, along with a large market fair.

Teams from all over Laos compete for prizes and bragging rights.

OCTOBER

VIENTIANE CENTER, VIENTIANE

LAO COFFEE LOVERS

Lao Coffee Lovers will come together and celebrate International Coffee Day to promote sustainable and green production and consumption of Lao coffee.

Lao people gather baskets full of food and household items and offer at temples to make merit for family members and ancestors who have already passed away.

2

LUANG PRABANG

OCTOBER

NATIONWIDE

END OF BUDDHIST LENT

FIREBOAT FESTIVAL

Villages construct large candlelit boats to parade through town, compete for prizes, and then be released into the river.

31

OCTOBER

VIENTIANE

THAT LUANG FESTIVAL

Lao people make merit by releasing small floats made of banana trunks and decorated with candles and flowers into the river.

This week long festival and market fair is held in and around That Luang Stupa, the national symbol of Laos, and ends with a fireworks display.

PAK NGUM

NAGA FIREBALLS

Mysterious balls of light float up out of the Mekong only on this evening – believed to come from Naga spirits in the river – or is there some other explanation?

To read more about the Fireboat Festival in Luang Prabang go to page 26

To read more about the That Luang Festival in Vientiane go to page 58

To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

Sky bar with Mekong river view Private function catering at Sky bar Well equipped fitness center Spa - body massage & scrub +856 21 249 999 info@surestayvientiane.com www.surestayvientiane.com Tipsy Elephant tipsyelephantvte 101 Chaoanou Rd, Watchan Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Laos

12

FOOD CAPITAL

food CAPITAL

Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.

Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane.

Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle

LAO CUISINE & CATERING

LAO DERM Specializes in authentic Lao cuisine infused with the homey, traditional flavors of Laos. The elegant and classic décor adds to its warm and cozy ambiance, as a true black-and-white style colonial house with a modern twist.

The taste and food presentation will make you visit again and again. Highlights here include steamed freshwater fish in banana leaves, a turkey laap, and stew made from mixed vegetables and Lao beef jerky.

Khoun Boulom Road Mon–Sun 10 am– 10 pm @LaoDermRestaurant

tip

Try their excellent and reasonably priced catering service

NOODLES

don't miss

Luang Prabang wrap (Ancient recipe, deep fried fish mixed with pork and crispy rice)

Pangkham Road Mon–Sun 8.30 am – midnight @callme.nuan

Noodle soups are a staple of street food; each restaurant has its own secret recipe broth. The Wagyu Beef Noodle Soup creates upscale versions of this street food.

Select your type of imported beef from standard to more prime cuts like ribeye slices which are tasty, tender, and go perfectly well with noodles. You can also add more beef to your noodles, as well as a range of sharable side dishes, such as Spicy Salad with Wagyu beef shank or the Wagyu In-house Special Meat Platter.

Nongbone Road

CAFE

Mon–Sun 7 am– 9 pm

NUAN If all the innovation is exhausting you, why not go back to a simpler time at this retrothemed cafe in Vientiane? This concept cafe is a throwback to simple diners found in cities in the mid-20th century. Nuan is a simple, traditional eatery where customers can enjoy slow coffee, iced drinks, beers, home-cooked food, and snacks. The team at Nuan has pulled off a very impressive and detailed recreation of our grandparents’ Asia. The restaurant is located on the ground floor, while the cafe and evening drinking hole are on the second floor.

THE WAGYU BEEF NOODLE SOUP

don't miss

@ TheWagyuBeefSoup

The daily changing lunch menu

don't miss

The Wagyu Beef Soup Set

Same day delivery in the city ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າອອນລາຍ

Delivery of online products

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າທົ່ວໄປ Delivery of goods

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ຜູ້ໂດຍສານ (Taxi) Taxi service

ເກັບເງິນປາຍທາງ ແລ້ວໂອນພ້ອມ COD and funds transfer service

ບໍລິການ ສົ່ງບັດເຊີນຕ່າງໆ Invitation delivery service

Phontong Chommany Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR

020 9899-9542 020 5587-8985

14

MADE IN LAOS

MADE IN LAOS

Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos?

Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.

PAKSONG SAPPHIRE

TRAVEL PACK This travel pack includes Luang Prabang Botanicals hand sanitizer, natural mosquito repellant, and cotton face mask, all inside a handwoven Taileu cotton travel purse.

This lustrous green tea is harvested from 300-year-old teas and has a refreshing aroma with a hint of wild tea, which has a completely different flavor than cultivated teas. It is completely natural and can be brewed over 20 times without losing its flavor.

155,000 LAK Ma Té Sai Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang matesai.com

COCONUT BOWL

428,000 LAK 36 Manor IHC office, Building A, Floor1, Ban Donenokkhoum, Vientiane WeChat 微信: Y1445756178

Coconut bowl decorated with handmade eggshell inlay.

Available in various colors.

(Large variety of eggshell crafts on display at T’Shop Lai Gallery.)

Les Artisans Lao Wat Inpeng Street, Vientiane facebook.com/lesartisanslao

95,000 LAK

Get 20% discount upon presentation of this ad

BBL GANODERMA POWDER CAPSULES BBL ganoderma powder capsules, made of wild ganoderma lucidum, originating from Laos’ primary forest, helps protect your liver health from excessive smoking and drinking, poor sleep, hypertension, high cholesterol, and diabetes.

278,000 LAK BBL (Laos) Agricultural Resources Co.Ltd. Ban Nakham, Vientiane WeChat 微信��: BBL98666618

To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

16

CITYSCAPE

IN

SAVANNAKHET EAT

MACCHIATO DE COFFEE

LIN’S CAFÉ Located right on the Talat Yen square (soon to be the Savannakhet Night Market), Lin’s is a favorite of locals and foreigners alike.

Western foods, such as pastas, salads, and sandwiches, as well as good Lao and Vietnamese food are served up. Located on a corner with views of St. Theresa’s Church and the Talat Yen, the patio is a great place to relax for a few hours with a book and a cup of Lin’s delicious coffee.

LIN'S CAFÉ

SOOKSAVAN CAFÉ & BISTRO 1966 Located a block away from Talat Yen, and set in a beautifully crumbling heritage building, Sooksavan Café & Bistro 1966 creates tasty Thai and Lao dishes, such as Phad Thai, satay, and curries. People usually come for a meal and enjoy curling up in the retro ambience sipping tea and coffee, and reading a book.

MACCHIATO DE COFFEE

SOOKSAVAN CAFÉ & BISTRO 1966

Just as the name blends several languages, the hipster-vintage décor and extensive menu also bring a mix from different places.

Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food are offered alongside Western comfort foods such as pancakes, steaks, burgers, and pizza. Save room for dessert, as cheesecake, blueberry cookie crumble, and chocolate lava cake will satisfy all sweet cravings. Instagrammers will especially like the hamburgers on charcoal buns and a surprising unicorn cotton candy.

17

DRINK LAOCHALEUN BAR Live music in the evenings aids the retro movie ambience of this bar named for a beautiful derelict cinema down the street. Thai/Lao dinners and bar food made for sharing is available here to be washed down with a refreshing lager.

LAOCHALEUN BAR

LE COURBEAU BAR Tucked away in a charming heritage building, this combination bar and cafe feels like a vintage speakeasy.

Soft jazz plays while you chit chat and while away a sublime evening. The cocktails themselves are artisanal, creative, and absolutely delicious.

SOOKSAVAN BAR

SOOKSAVAN BAR This evening hotspot attracts both local and foreign visitors to the chill vintage vibes and outdoor seating to see and be seen. Both meals and bar snacks are available to accompany one’s cold beer.

LE COURBEAU BAR SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

18

CITYSCAPE

SEE

SAVANNAKHET PROVINCIAL MUSEUM

PROVINCIAL MUSEUM

ST. THERESA’S CHURCH

THAT ING HANG

THAT ING HANG This is the most important stupa and the emblem of Savannakhet province.

Locals believe that a piece of the Buddha’s spine is enshrined here. The stupa’s name comes from an old legend that the Buddha rested in his travels in this area and leaned on a hang tree. It is located a short drive outside of town.

During the full moon in November, it is also home to one of the largest festivals in the province.

This museum is rather well thought out and gives a full picture of Savannakhet through the ages, from ancient times up through the Angkor and Lane Xang kingdoms, all the way to the victorious struggle for national liberation. There is also a section outside of war remnants and bombs, as a stark reminder of recent wars and UXO clean- up still underway.

DINOSAUR MUSEUM Informative and bilingual, this spacious museum contains the most information available on dinosaurs found in Laos. Bones are displayed informally among several glass cases in each room. The English captions and brochure encourage self-learning and visitor interpretation.

When the French set up here in the early colonial days, Catholicism followed.

Bolstered by many Catholic Vietnamese entrepreneurs settling in the downtown area, it has become a landmark for both locals and tourists. The doors are usually open during the day, inviting anyone to walk in and enjoy its understated Indochinese charm.

ST. THERESA’S CHURCH

DINOSAUR MUSEUM

19

STAY SAVAN RESORTS For people looking for something unique, or to strike it rich, this casino hotel will keep you occupied all day and night.

Popular with Thai tourists playing a range of games like Baccarat and Hi-Lo, as well as roulette and slot machines, the hotel has upgraded its rooms and add more facilities to cater to families and children to create an all-inclusive resort.

SAVAN CAFÉ Set in a beautifully revitalized Chinese shophouse, the rooms are cozy and quaint, and some have private bathrooms. Once you lie down you will not want to get up, as the beds are some of the softest found in Asia. The downstairs area is a popular café and restaurant with great Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food and coffee, and the rooftop is also a bar in the evenings.

SAVAN RESORTS

SAVAN CAFÉ

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

20

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

FLYING TO

NEW

HEIGHTS

Champa Meuanglao had the honor and pleasure of sitting down and getting to know the new President of Lao Airlines, Mr. Khamla Phommavanh.

21

Could you introduce yourself to our readers?

It is an honor to be appointed as President of Lao Airlines by the government.

I began my career with an engineering background, holding Bachelor’s and Master’s Degrees in Civil Engineering. From there I worked in various departments of the Ministry of Public Works and Transport (MoPWT), before my most recent position as Deputy Director-General of the Department of Planning and Cooperation for the MoPWT, where I was involved in short and long-term planning and strategy, including international cooperation, statistics, and large-scale investments in public works and transport.

In which direction would you like to lead Lao Airlines in the future?

Due to the global crisis going on now, I have the following thoughts on this answer.

It’s best to look at two different situations affecting us. Firstly, we must manage ourselves to evade and surpass the Covid-19 crisis. Secondly, we already had a plan to revamp and revitalize the airline, but implementation may be delayed due to the pandemic. These plans must be very flexible, as it is still difficult to predict what the air travel situation may be like in six months or even a year. As a company, we must take every measure we can in order to increase efficiency and maximize revenue, while maintaining the high quality of services and safety that our passengers expect and deserve.

above: President Khamla Phommavanh accepts his new position.

“WE MUST MANAGE OURSELVES TO EVADE AND SURPASS THE COVID-19 CRISIS. […] WE ALREADY HAD A PLAN TO REVAMP AND REVITALIZE THE AIRLINE, BUT IMPLEMENTATION MAY BE DELAYED DUE TO THE PANDEMIC.”

What do you see are the strengths of Lao Airlines?

As for the strengths of Lao Airlines, it has the distinction of being the national carrier of the Lao PDR. As such, it has received support and direction from the Lao Government. In addition, we have skilled and experienced mechanics and experts from the aviation sector, we have a business plan covering each period, alongside steady improvement in levels of service for Lao and foreign passengers. It has also received vitally important IATA and IOSA accreditations that are necessary to achieve international recognition as a safe airline for passengers from around the world.

Where is your favorite place to travel?

I have actually been to every destination that Lao Airlines flies to and visited many domestic and international sites. I am very pleased to say that each one is unique and worth visiting.

Are there any new destinations opening up on the horizon for Lao Airlines?

Once we are able to resume international travel, we plan to launch flights to neighboring countries, such as to Danang, Vietnam and to various cities in China. Once the crisis has passed, then we will be able to evaluate new potential destinations throughout the region.

Is there anything else you would like to say to our readers?

On behalf of Lao Airlines, I would like to give my highest thanks to the government and Lao and foreign passengers for supporting and using the services of Lao Airlines. We pledge to continue improving services, ensure safety, and modernize to connect the Lao PDR and neighboring countries in the region. We are ready to welcome you aboard with our smiles and service standards.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

22

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

26

TRAVEL

THE

FIREBOAT FESTIVAL

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

27

A boat shaped like a mythical golden swan is released into the Mekong

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

28

TRAVEL

1

A

t the end of Buddhist Lent, the green monsoon season draws to a close, and the harvest season begins. To give thanks for their livelihoods and annual bounty, Lao people make merit by making offerings to the mother spirit of rivers.

In Luang Prabang, this is especially magical, as the entire town is lit with colorful lanterns and candles. Temples, homes, and businesses hang candlelit lanterns instead of electric lights, giving the city a magical glow. Each village works together to construct and decorate large boats with bamboo frames covered in colored paper and lights, ranging from simpler designs to very elaborate structures featuring mythical creatures.

MORE INFO This year's Fireboat Festival takes place on the 3rd of October.

Lao Airlines has regular flights to Luang Prabang.

As dusk settles on the city, these heua fai, or fireboats, are paraded down the main street from Wat That Noy to Wat Xieng Thong amid revelry and music – and in near-total absence of electrical lighting. Onlookers line the sidewalks to get a glimpse of these fantastic creations in this procession. As they arrive in Wat Xieng Thong, they line up in the courtyard and are judged by local dignitaries. Then one by one, the boats are carried down the steps to the Mekong where they are launched into the river, offering thanks to the river and bringing good fortune to the village.

29

1. Novices light small owershaped lanterns in the yard of Wat Xieng Mouan 2. Students carry lotus lanterns during the ďŹ reboat procession 3. The entire town comes to main street to watch and participate in the procession

2

3

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

30

TRAVEL

1

31

2

1. A young ďŹ re breather adds to the excitement of the festival 2. A Buddhist nun makes merit by lighting candles at a statue of a naga water spirit.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

1

2

33

3

1. This swan-shaped boat also carries a replica of the Watermelon Stupa found in Wat Visoun 2. Fireworks spraying sparks into the night sky at Wat Xieng Mouan 3. Small rowboats help guide the ďŹ reboats farther out into the Mekong so they are caught in the current

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

34

FLAVORS

THE

OF

LAO CUISINE TEXT BY ADITTA KITTIKHOUN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

Jeo Mengda

I

t is no stretch of the truth to say that cuisine in the Asian region is one of the best in the world. Much of the food in Asia tends to be heavily spiced, packed with a multitude of flavors, and contain a lot of excess fats. In Laos, locals enjoy either the tangy punch of a good pork laap, zesty papaya salad, or a hot salty ox blood soup. But can Lao food be healthy?

With rare exceptions, foreign visitors to Laos would generally concur that Lao food is quite tasty. But tasty doesn’t necessarily equate with healthy. Many Lao dishes can be really wholesome, especially those that undergo a more salubrious preparation process. Jeo (dips), stews, tossed salads, and steamed dishes are some of the healthier choices you can opt for if you want to avoid, especially if you want to lose, some kilos!

Dipping sauces (jeo)

Also known as Lao dipping sauces, these sumptuous melanges of pummeled spices, vegetables, and grilled meats (or insects) can constitute a whole meal accompanied by steamed greens and sticky rice. They can make for a healthy and filling lunch!

Jeo Bong

Jeo Mak Len

35

Jeo Kha

Jeo Mak Ped Yai

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

36

FLAVORS

Stews and soups (or-laam and kaeng)

The fabled or-laam, the Luang Prabang dish fit for kings, holds its place as the iconic Lao stew. An equally quintessential stew called kaeng nor mai (bamboo shoot soup) has yet to make an appearance on the international scene. While or-laam is not typically consumed as a soup, kaeng nor mai, with its slightly less viscous texture can be considered a fiber-rich soup.

Kaeng Nor Mai

Kaeng Som Pa

Or-Laam

Photos: courtesy of Kualao Restaurant ຮູບພາບຈາກ ຮ�ານອາຫານຄ�ວລາວ

37

Tossed salads (laap and koi)

Joup Pak

Any laap or koi variant, such as an ant egg salad that does not undergo a fried cooking process, is just about as healthy as Lao salads go.

Xiengkouang’s joup pak (soup pak in other regions) of steamed greens represents a very traditional Lao salad.

Mok Pa

Banana leaf parcels (mok)

Mok is an ancient cooking technique by which meat and vegetables are steamed while wrapped inside banana leaves.

This method not only infuses the ingredients with a subtly sweet aroma and flavor but also retains the nutritious vitamins present in the juices inside the leaf.

A classic is mok pa, with a glorious mix of steamed fish, veggies, and other herbs.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

AN EPIC BOLAVEN ROAD TRIP TEXT BY DYAN BARUTZKI PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ

39

T

he Bolaven Plateau is an adventurer’s paradise! Literally translated as “Home of the Laven,” the name honors the Laven ethnic group which was once more predominant here. ‘Doing the Bolaven Loop’ is a popular tourist activity all year round and it’s easy to see why. The area is rich with coffee plantations, glorious waterfalls, quaint little cafes and restaurants, botanical gardens, and farms – all easily accessible by either car or motorbike.

There are two main routes. The bigger loop is around 320 km and includes more challenging routes through Sekong and Attapeu provinces, while the more famous smaller loop is around 200 km and can be easily done road-trip-style by car. Don’t forget to bring raincoats with you as the Bolaven weather is notorious for being unpredictable.

WEEKEND ITINERARY FOR THE SMALL BOLAVEN LOOP BY CAR AROUND 40KM FROM PAKSE A good way to start any road-trip is a strong cup of coffee. Halfway to Paksong, Lak40 Café serves an exquisite café latte and homegrown tea. A small family-run business, they recently established a bigger café to serve more customers. You can also take a walk around their backyard farm where they process their own products, if you’re lucky you might even spot a cacao tree or two!

What about brunch? There are some good options around here. E-tu Garden is known for its homemade yogurt and Sabaidee Valley serves good proper food (in Laos that means rice and a viand).

Now, time for an adventure! Seeing Tad Fane is a reward in itself. Fly At Tad Fane is currently the highest zipline in Laos. This unique venue allows visitors to zipline, enjoy a coffee (offers a bit more kick than the caffeine!), or lie in a hammock 220 meters over the stunning twin cascade waterfalls of Tad Fane. Take things down a notch and walk the steps towards the hut of Tad Yeuang (also spelled Gneuang or Yuang) for an epic selfie.

PAKSONG TOWN (KM50)

A typical early morning scene at the Bolaven Plateau

Be still my caffeinated heart. From the new Jing Jhai café at the entrance of Paksong town to Paksong Highland a little bit further, there is no shortage of coffee in this part of the plateau. If you want

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

40

SOUTHERN LAOS

1

to turn this into a longer trip, book a jeep tour of Khamsone’s Mystic Mountain Coffee plantation.

Grab a bite to eat or try their famous softserve ice cream at Yamamoto café. Take your selfie game to another level by borrowing a kimono here and taking a picture at their flower garden or strawberry field (be sure to check if it’s the right season!).

THATENG DISTRICT (KM80) Drive a bit further to see the sprawling grounds of Sinouk Coffee Resort and to experience a tranquil dining experience at their restaurant overlooking the natural pool. Right across is the newly built Thateng Farm, good for families with small children or dogs. Look for hotel accommodation around this area or the neighboring Paksong town.

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Pakse from Vientiane.

MORE INFO

Please visit: southern-laos.com for more information about the Bolaven Plateau’s many ethnic groups and their textiles.

If you need an even more relaxing time, go see Captain Hook for his coffee tour. English might be a challenge without his younger brother there, but Hook can impress you with his Dutch words for sure.

BAN LAO NGAM (KM70) Right at the border of Salavan and Sekong provinces, you can stop by the Katou textile village for authentic souvenirs. Visit www.southern-laos.com for more information about the Bolaven Plateau’s many ethnic groups and their textiles.

Stop by Vieng’s for a caffeine fix and a glimpse of the simple Katou village life.

KM33 Getting closer to Pakse again, visit Tad Pha Suam or Tad Champee for a quick nature trek and dip in its cool waters.

TAD LO (KM86) TURNING POINT Just seeing the three waterfalls here: Tad Lo, Tad Hang, and Tad Soung; already makes the ride worthwhile. A favorite of the backpackers here is Fandee Guesthouse, where basic wooden bungalows are as cheap as they get – the restaurant is even well-rated! If you want to stay longer here at Salavan, I encourage you to visit Fandee Adventure park for a “ziplines and jungle bridges” extravaganza!

PAKSE TOWN When you reach the end of your weekend journey, get that rewarding cocktail for your weary soul at the rooftop bar of Pakse Hotel or Residence Sisouk, which both have the best views of the town. For an excellent sunset over the Mekong, go to Mekong Paradise Hotel or Sala Gang Khong restaurant. Remember to always be a responsible traveler wherever you go!

41

“My two favorite places in the Bolaven are Dan Sin Xay and Tad Tayicseua, for sure! Dan Sin Xay is a new eco-tourism spot where you can find the Champee River. You can trek through the lush vegetation of the coffee plantations here. The numerous waterfalls of Tad Tayicseua are breathtaking especially during the green season, another mustsee when you do the loop.”

2 1. Khamsone from Mystic Mountain Coffee shows guests how he processes his coffee products 2. The Katou ethnic tribe is known for their weaving and tobacco pipe (Korkder) 3. A tourist tries on a kimono at Yamamoto Farm 4. Fandee Guesthouse at Tad Lo 5. Tad Yeuang

Mr. Bounpon ‘Tiger’ Vunnaphone Tour Guide from EXO Travel

3

“One of the best places for me would be Nong Luang park. So much fresh air from the surrounding nature. This park is perfect for adventure lovers where you can zipline close to a huge

4 5

waterfall! You can also stay the night at one of the homestays in the village.

The recommended activities here are trekking and camping.”

Mr. Tam Saybounkong Tour Guide from Thanongxay Tour Company

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

SOUTHERN LAOS

43

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

44

SOUTHERN LAOS

1

The perfect encounter between primitive and pure

YOUR AD HERE

+856 20 5573 1717 advertising@champameuanglao.com

SNAPSHOT

PHOU YA KHA PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

T

he Phou Ya Kha area in Oudomxay’s Xay District has only recently been explored for tourism. This rocky mountainous  area is great for trekking and camping, and it is easy to access with a local guide, as the trailhead is located just 32 km outside of Oudomxay. One and two-night trekking adventures are available, so you can marvel at impressive views and unusual rock formations only found here, as well as breathing fresh mountain air as the stars twinkle overhead.

Immense boulder dot the landscape around Phou Ya Kha

50

SNAPSHOT

1

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has frequent flights to Oudomxay from Vientiane. Adventurous travelers can make their own way to KM32 village and find a local guide for the trek.

Otherwise, Nam Kat Yorla Pa Resort (namkatyorlapa.com) can arrange 2 and 3-day excursions.

2

3

1. It is important to take a local guide from KM 32 village as the trail is not well marked.

2. Large rock formations which resemble a whale and a dolphin.

3. A traveler hikes past a rock that look like leathery reptile skin due to centuries of erosion.

4. Sunset at Phou Ya Kha summit

4

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

52

SNAPSHOT

A bird’s eye view of Phou Ya Kha summit

53

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

1

1. Another interesting rock formation located on the return hike to KM 32 village 2. A traveler stops for a photo of a mountain cli 3. Starry night on Phou Ya Kha summit

2

55

3

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

56

INSIGHTS

SUPPORTING LIVELIHOODS IN

AGRICULTURE

B

usinesses are only as great as their people.

Therefore, it is important for Lao Tobacco Limited to support not only its employ ees but also the contracted farmer base.

Farmers are a key element in Lao Tobacco’s business, as they provide a quality crop used for the manufacturer of local Lao Tobacco products.

Lao Tobacco realizes that supporting its contracted farmers’ livelihoods is integral to maintaining a local sustainable supply of tobacco and our contracts secure the farmer a fair market for the tobacco crop.

The farmers can then grow their crops with the assurance that they have support from Lao Tobacco.

Lao Tobacco International supports farmers to receive good agricultural practice training to improve the yield and quality of tobacco, as well as other food crops. Not only does this improve their

Providing a guaranteed market for farmers.

BY FRANCIS SAVANKHAM

yield, but also protects and maintains soil nutrients which will ensure that these crops continue to flourish in the future. Lao Tobacco helps farmers to protect their tobacco crop with compliant materials and ensures safe practices are followed on the farm.

A sustainable supply of tobacco requires good agricultural practices to be upheld by farmers at all times. Lao Tobacco is committed to upholding high labor standards outlined by the International Labour Organization. In doing so, the Lao Tobacco team train contracted farmers based on the importance of these high standards and are proud to help raise the standard for agribusiness in Laos and will ensure that Lao Tobacco continues its trajectory of growth and success for years to come.

57

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

58

LAO CULTURE

THE

THAT LUANG FESTIVAL The country’s preeminent celebration is fun for everyone.

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

A time-lapse photo of worshipers making a candlelit procession around That Luang stupa.

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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

60

LAO CULTURE

E

very visitor to Vientiane will inevitably visit That Luang (the Great Stupa). This large golden spire encircled by 30 smaller spires, is the symbol of the nation and seen on everything from banknotes to t-shirts and instills a pervasive sense of pride among Lao people.

According to the chronicle of the stupa, in 307 BCE, a delegation of Buddhist emissaries traveled around the area to spread the religion and brought along some of the Buddha’s bone fragments. These revered relics were placed inside a simple stone mound built on this site. Many wars and renovations followed in the ensuing millenia giving us the final monument seen today.

Each year, in the week leading up to the full moon of the 12th lunar month (usually in November, but exceptionally this year on 31 October) the temple grounds erupt in a large festival, one of the largest in Laos.

People from all over the country make the pilgrimage to Vientiane for this festival.

Visiting That Luang Festival is a treat for the senses. A market fair is set up on the esplanade, where you can wander the stalls to find locally-made products such as traditional silk sinh wrap skirts, musical instruments, coffee, and tea, as well as imported mobile phones and household goods.

1

2

1. Almsiving during the That Luang Festival 2. Worshipers carry offerings to make merit 3. Large offerings are decorated with wax, flowers, and money as an offering to the stupa

3

61

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THAT LUANG 307 BCE Buddhist relics interred in a stone mound

1566 CE That Luang is renovated by Xaysetthathirath

1828 The city is sacked by Siam, That Luang is damaged and left in ruins

1900 France begins several restoration attempts of the stupa

Locals visiting from other regions of the country buy these as souvenirs and gifts to take back home. Walking through, you are hit by fragrant smells of all manner of ready-to-eat food, such as grilled chicken, sticky rice cooked in bamboo, meatballs, and fried noodles.

Several stages are also erected at the market fair with a revolving set of cultural performances to delight the crowds from all over the country. These often include school groups performing traditional music and dances, as well as famous singers of mo lam, traditional folk music of jaunty lyrics sung to the pounding wails of a khaen, the traditional bamboo mouth organ. A midway with amusement rides also brings delight to teenagers who flock to see and be seen on the Ferris wheel and bumper cars.

Fervor and crowds build throughout the week, culminating in a procession on 30 October from Wat Si Meuang to That Luang.

Locals dress in their traditional clothes and carry large homemade offerings, called wax

castles, adorned with wax flowers and candles.

These are a sign of great respect for the Buddha relic entombed inside the stupa.

On the early morning of 31 October, locals dress in their finest silks and jostle for room on the esplanade as hundreds of monks wander past collecting alms. Later in the day, a traditional game of tikhy, similar to field hockey using curved bamboo sticks and a rattan ball, is played between symbolic teams representing the government and the people. This friendly game is only played once a year. When the government team wins, it is a sign that the people will be fairly governed, yet when the people's team wins, it is a sign that there will be no hunger and there will be good luck and prosperity for the next year. This is definitely a win-win situation!

Finally, that evening, worshippers will visit That Luang stupa one more time carrying flowers, incense, and candles and circumambulate three times around the stupa asking for blessings and good fortune from this holy site. Good luck will allow us all to visit That Luang Festival again next year!

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

62

LAO CULTURE

63

1

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020

Lao Airlines Updates

LAO AIRLINES NEWS | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES

66

TIMETABLE

HOT LINE

68

FLIGHT ROUTES

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

DOMESTIC AT7 0 ROUTES

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE FLIGHT ROUTES

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

LAO AIRLINES OFFICES

INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

DOMESTIC OFFICES

Bangkok

Vientiane (VTE)

Town Office 491/17 ground Fl, Silom Plaza, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel: (66-2) 236 9822 / (66-2) 236 9823 / (66-2) 237 8044 Fax: (66-2) 236 9821 Email: bkkrrqv@ksc.th.com Suvarnabhumi Airport 2nd Floor of AOB building, Room No. Z010 Tel: (66-2) 134 2006 to 2008 Fax: (66-2) 134 2009

Chiangmai

2/107 Ratchaphruek, Huaykaew Road, Amphoe Muang, Chiangmai 50300, Thailand Tel: (66-53) 223 401, Fax: (66-53) 223 400 Email: qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th

Hanoi

03 Lieu Giai Str, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: (84-4) 394 25362, Fax: (84-4) 394 25363 Email: laoairlines.han@fpt.vn / qvhan@laoairlines.com

Hochiminh

11A Song Da, Dist Tan Binh, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84) 912 070 045 Email: qvsgn@laoairlines.com

Ticketing and Reservation Office Tel: (856-21) 212051-54 or 1626 Email: vtersqv@laoairlines.com / vtessqv@laoairlines.com onlinebooking@laoairlines.com Airport Offices Tel: (856-21) 513032

Luang Prabang (LPQ)

Town Office Tel: (856-71) 212172, Fax: (856-71) 212406 Email: lpqssqv@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-71) 212173, Fax: (856-71) 252264 Email: lpa@laoairlines.com

Xiengkhouang (XKH)

Town Office Tel: (856-61) 312027, Fax: (856-61) 312487 Email: xkh@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-61) 312177

Luang Namtha (LXG)

Phnompenh

58 B Sihanouk Avenue, Phnompenh, Cambodia Tel: (855-23) 222956 / (855-23) 216 563, Fax: (855-23) 216 563 Email: laoairlines.qvpnh@online.com.kh

Town Office Luangnamtha rd., Nongbouavieng Village, Luangnamtha Province Tel: (856-86) 212072 / 212186, Fax: (856-86) 212073 Email: lxg@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-86) 312180, 312053

Siem Reap

Oudomsay (ODY)

N.C10,C12, Angkor Shopping Acade National Road 6, Kruos Village, Svay Dangkum Commune, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia Tel: (855-63) 963169, Fax: (855-63) 963 283 | Skype ID: helpdesk_qvrep Email: qvreptkt@laoairlines.com

Kunming

No52 East Dong Feng Road, Kunming Yunnan, China Tel: (86-871) 63125748 / (86)-13987182913 Email: Kunming@laoairlines.com

Guangzhou

Room 1208,12 floor, Main tower, Guangdong International Building, 339 Huanshi Dong Road, Guangzhou, China P.C: 510098 Tel: (8620) 838 840 85, Fax: (8620) 838 840 95 Email: canqv@laoairlines.com

Jing Hong

Ground Floor King Land Hotel, 6 Jing De Road, Jing Hong Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China Tel: (86-692) 12199515 / (0086) 13988136962 Fax: (86-692) 12199515 Email: qvjhg@laoairlines.com

Seoul

Gwang Hwa Mun Centre Point Building 5F31SaeMunAn-Ro 5-gil (Doryum-dong 65) Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: (82-2) 6262-0808,0809,0810 / (82-2) 6262-0800,0811,0822 / (82-2) 6262-0819 Fax: (82-2) 6262-0844 Email: ticketing.sel@laoairlines.com

Tel: (856-81) 312047, 312146, Fax: (856-81) 212229 Email: ody@laoairlines.com

Savannakhet (ZVK)

Dongdamdouan Village, Khaysonephomvihane District, Savannakhet Province Tel: (856-41) 212140, 252198, Fax: (856-41) 251060 Email: zvk@laoairlines.com

Pakse (PKZ)

11 Road, Phatthana Lakmueng Village, Pakse District, Champasak Province Tel: (856-31) 212252, Fax: (856-31) 212751 Email: pkz@laoairlines.com

69

70

LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

0

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ

*:

*

6

Official Lao Airlines Inflight Magazine

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020