SOUTHERN LAOS An Epic Bolaven Road Trip
FLYING TO NEW HEIGHTS New President of Lao Airlines Mr. Khamla Phommavanh
PHOU YA KHA Exploring Oudomxay’s Rocky Mountains
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. On the occasion of my appointment as the new president of Lao Airlines, I hold the development and safety of Lao Airlines at the highest of importance. I hope passengers will be proud of our national carrier and remain focused on navigating through the current difďŹ culties in global travel. October and November bring the end of Buddhist Lent, as well as That Luang Festival, and I would like to take this opportunity to wish all our passengers happiness and health during this festive time in Laos. On behalf of the board of directors and all of the staff of Lao Airlines, thank you for choosing us, as we are very experienced with international standards, and we are committed to serving you.
Safe travels. With highest respect, Khamla Phommavanh President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Hello readers, Welcome to the September-October issue of Champa Meuanglao. In this issue we are pleased to focus exclusively on the beauty and diversity of travel destinations in Laos. Get to know Lao Airlines’ new president in an exclusive interview. One of Laos’ most beautiful festivals is in October this year, so plan to visit Luang Prabang for the Fireboat Festival at the end of Buddhist Lent. Join us on an adventure to the recently explored Phou Ya Kha in Oudomxay Province. Explore the healthy side of Lao food. Learn how to spend a long weekend in Savannakhet and also see the highlights of the famous Bolaven Loop. There is a lot to be explored in Laos!
Happy Reading! The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team
COVER IMAGE Starry night on Phou Ya Kha summit Photo by Phoonsab Thevongsa
PUBLISHING Editor In Chief Editors
Managing Editor Contributing Editor Creative Director Assistant Designer
In light of the current Covid-19 situation throughout the world, please be aware that certain activities, festivals, sites, businesses, and events mentioned in this magazine may not be open and operating as planned. Do exercise good judgment, maintain safety precautions, and follow the directions of Lao authorities at all times.
Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng
Contributing Writers
Benny Omar Dalaphone Pholsena Dyan Barutzki Francis Savankham
Head Photographer
Phoonsab Thevongsa
Contributing Photographers
Bart Verweij
ADVISORY BOARD Khamla Phommavanh President Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism
ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Manager
Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578
Sales & Marketing Executive
Souphaphone Insixiengmay souphaphone.insixiengmay@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55471337
LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlines to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos
RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la
DISCLAIMER
Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2020 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com
nal o i t p Exce dent i s e R Lao ions t o m Pro
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ຮ�ານອາຫານ ປູຄຳ
p e r n ig h t in D e lu x e r o om
ສາລາ ສະປາ ແຄມນ້ຳ
Riversi de Sala Spa
Restaurant du Crabe d’Or
Riverside Boutique Resort & Restaurant du Crabe d’Or - Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng, Vientiane Province, Lao PDR www.riversidevangvieng.com
Facebook.com/Riversidevangvieng
info@riversidevangvieng.com
T +856 (0) 23 511 726-8
CONTENTS SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
48
38 58
26
56 34 10
12
14
WHAT'S ON
FOOD CAPITAL
MADE IN LAOS
Our guide to events
The foodie's guide
Showcasing the best
in Laos
to Vientiane
Lao products
16
20
26
34
38
CITYSCAPE
INSIDE LAO AIRLINES
TRAVEL
FLAVORS
SOUTHERN LAOS
48 hours in Savannakhet
Lao Airlines' new
Luang Prabang's
The healthier side
An epic Bolaven road trip
president Mr. Khamla
Fireboat Festival
of Lao cuisine
48
56
58
65
SNAPSHOT
INSIGHTS
LAO CULTURE
ON THE AIR
Exploring Oudomxay’s
Supporting livelihoods
The That Luang Festival
Lao Airlines information
rocky mountains
in agriculture
Phommavanh
MAKING EUROPE THE PREFERRED
BUSINESS PARTNER
OF LAO PDR
OUR SERVICES
ADVOCACY NETWORKING RECEPTIONS TRAININGS AND SEMINARS CONTACT AND BUSINESS MATCHING ADVERTISING CONTACT US: +856-21 264 330
contact@eccil.org
EurochamLaos
ECCIL
www.eccil.org
10
WHAT'S ON
WHAT'S ON?
Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time. Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun! Dates and activities may be subject to change during the Covid-19 pandemic situation
2
SEPTEMBER
NATIONWIDE
HOR KHAO SALAK
3
OCTOBER
2–4 9–10
OCTOBER
HUEAN CHAN HERITAGE, LUANGPRABANG
VIENTIANE
BOAT RACING FESTIVAL
Laos’ largest boat race occurs at Wat Chan, along with a large market fair. Teams from all over Laos compete for prizes and bragging rights.
OCTOBER
VIENTIANE CENTER, VIENTIANE
LAO COFFEE LOVERS
Lao Coffee Lovers will come together and celebrate International Coffee Day to promote sustainable and green production and consumption of Lao coffee. Lao people gather baskets full of food and household items and offer at temples to make merit for family members and ancestors who have already passed away.
2
LUANG PRABANG
OCTOBER
NATIONWIDE
END OF BUDDHIST LENT
FIREBOAT FESTIVAL
Villages construct large candlelit boats to parade through town, compete for prizes, and then be released into the river.
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OCTOBER
VIENTIANE
THAT LUANG FESTIVAL
Lao people make merit by releasing small floats made of banana trunks and decorated with candles and flowers into the river. This week long festival and market fair is held in and around That Luang Stupa, the national symbol of Laos, and ends with a fireworks display.
PAK NGUM
NAGA FIREBALLS
Mysterious balls of light float up out of the Mekong only on this evening – believed to come from Naga spirits in the river – or is there some other explanation?
To read more about the Fireboat Festival in Luang Prabang go to page 26
To read more about the That Luang Festival in Vientiane go to page 58
To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com
Sky bar with Mekong river view Private function catering at Sky bar Well equipped fitness center Spa - body massage & scrub +856 21 249 999 info@surestayvientiane.com www.surestayvientiane.com Tipsy Elephant tipsyelephantvte 101 Chaoanou Rd, Watchan Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Laos
12
FOOD CAPITAL
food CAPITAL
Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.
Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane. Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle
LAO CUISINE & CATERING
LAO DERM Specializes in authentic Lao cuisine infused with the homey, traditional flavors of Laos. The elegant and classic décor adds to its warm and cozy ambiance, as a true black-and-white style colonial house with a modern twist. The taste and food presentation will make you visit again and again. Highlights here include steamed freshwater fish in banana leaves, a turkey laap, and stew made from mixed vegetables and Lao beef jerky. Khoun Boulom Road Mon–Sun 10 am– 10 pm @LaoDermRestaurant
tip
Try their excellent and reasonably priced catering service
NOODLES
don't miss
Luang Prabang wrap (Ancient recipe, deep fried fish mixed with pork and crispy rice)
Pangkham Road Mon–Sun 8.30 am – midnight @callme.nuan
Noodle soups are a staple of street food; each restaurant has its own secret recipe broth. The Wagyu Beef Noodle Soup creates upscale versions of this street food. Select your type of imported beef from standard to more prime cuts like ribeye slices which are tasty, tender, and go perfectly well with noodles. You can also add more beef to your noodles, as well as a range of sharable side dishes, such as Spicy Salad with Wagyu beef shank or the Wagyu In-house Special Meat Platter. Nongbone Road
CAFE
Mon–Sun 7 am– 9 pm
NUAN If all the innovation is exhausting you, why not go back to a simpler time at this retrothemed cafe in Vientiane? This concept cafe is a throwback to simple diners found in cities in the mid-20th century. Nuan is a simple, traditional eatery where customers can enjoy slow coffee, iced drinks, beers, home-cooked food, and snacks. The team at Nuan has pulled off a very impressive and detailed recreation of our grandparents’ Asia. The restaurant is located on the ground floor, while the cafe and evening drinking hole are on the second floor.
THE WAGYU BEEF NOODLE SOUP
don't miss
@ TheWagyuBeefSoup
The daily changing lunch menu
don't miss
The Wagyu Beef Soup Set
Same day delivery in the city ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າອອນລາຍ
Delivery of online products
ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າທົ່ວໄປ Delivery of goods
ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ຜູ້ໂດຍສານ (Taxi) Taxi service
ເກັບເງິນປາຍທາງ ແລ້ວໂອນພ້ອມ COD and funds transfer service
ບໍລິການ ສົ່ງບັດເຊີນຕ່າງໆ Invitation delivery service
Phontong Chommany Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR
020 9899-9542 020 5587-8985
14
MADE IN LAOS
MADE IN LAOS
Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos? Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.
PAKSONG SAPPHIRE
TRAVEL PACK This travel pack includes Luang Prabang Botanicals hand sanitizer, natural mosquito repellant, and cotton face mask, all inside a handwoven Taileu cotton travel purse.
This lustrous green tea is harvested from 300-year-old teas and has a refreshing aroma with a hint of wild tea, which has a completely different flavor than cultivated teas. It is completely natural and can be brewed over 20 times without losing its flavor.
155,000 LAK Ma Té Sai Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang matesai.com
COCONUT BOWL
428,000 LAK 36 Manor IHC office, Building A, Floor1, Ban Donenokkhoum, Vientiane WeChat 微信: Y1445756178
Coconut bowl decorated with handmade eggshell inlay. Available in various colors. (Large variety of eggshell crafts on display at T’Shop Lai Gallery.) Les Artisans Lao Wat Inpeng Street, Vientiane facebook.com/lesartisanslao
95,000 LAK
Get 20% discount upon presentation of this ad
BBL GANODERMA POWDER CAPSULES BBL ganoderma powder capsules, made of wild ganoderma lucidum, originating from Laos’ primary forest, helps protect your liver health from excessive smoking and drinking, poor sleep, hypertension, high cholesterol, and diabetes.
278,000 LAK BBL (Laos) Agricultural Resources Co.Ltd. Ban Nakham, Vientiane WeChat 微信��: BBL98666618
To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com
16
CITYSCAPE
IN
SAVANNAKHET EAT
MACCHIATO DE COFFEE
LIN’S CAFÉ Located right on the Talat Yen square (soon to be the Savannakhet Night Market), Lin’s is a favorite of locals and foreigners alike. Western foods, such as pastas, salads, and sandwiches, as well as good Lao and Vietnamese food are served up. Located on a corner with views of St. Theresa’s Church and the Talat Yen, the patio is a great place to relax for a few hours with a book and a cup of Lin’s delicious coffee.
LIN'S CAFÉ
SOOKSAVAN CAFÉ & BISTRO 1966 Located a block away from Talat Yen, and set in a beautifully crumbling heritage building, Sooksavan Café & Bistro 1966 creates tasty Thai and Lao dishes, such as Phad Thai, satay, and curries. People usually come for a meal and enjoy curling up in the retro ambience sipping tea and coffee, and reading a book.
MACCHIATO DE COFFEE
SOOKSAVAN CAFÉ & BISTRO 1966
Just as the name blends several languages, the hipster-vintage décor and extensive menu also bring a mix from different places. Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food are offered alongside Western comfort foods such as pancakes, steaks, burgers, and pizza. Save room for dessert, as cheesecake, blueberry cookie crumble, and chocolate lava cake will satisfy all sweet cravings. Instagrammers will especially like the hamburgers on charcoal buns and a surprising unicorn cotton candy.
17
DRINK LAOCHALEUN BAR Live music in the evenings aids the retro movie ambience of this bar named for a beautiful derelict cinema down the street. Thai/Lao dinners and bar food made for sharing is available here to be washed down with a refreshing lager.
LAOCHALEUN BAR
LE COURBEAU BAR Tucked away in a charming heritage building, this combination bar and cafe feels like a vintage speakeasy. Soft jazz plays while you chit chat and while away a sublime evening. The cocktails themselves are artisanal, creative, and absolutely delicious. SOOKSAVAN BAR
SOOKSAVAN BAR This evening hotspot attracts both local and foreign visitors to the chill vintage vibes and outdoor seating to see and be seen. Both meals and bar snacks are available to accompany one’s cold beer.
LE COURBEAU BAR SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
18
CITYSCAPE
SEE
SAVANNAKHET PROVINCIAL MUSEUM
PROVINCIAL MUSEUM
ST. THERESA’S CHURCH
THAT ING HANG
THAT ING HANG This is the most important stupa and the emblem of Savannakhet province. Locals believe that a piece of the Buddha’s spine is enshrined here. The stupa’s name comes from an old legend that the Buddha rested in his travels in this area and leaned on a hang tree. It is located a short drive outside of town. During the full moon in November, it is also home to one of the largest festivals in the province.
This museum is rather well thought out and gives a full picture of Savannakhet through the ages, from ancient times up through the Angkor and Lane Xang kingdoms, all the way to the victorious struggle for national liberation. There is also a section outside of war remnants and bombs, as a stark reminder of recent wars and UXO clean- up still underway.
DINOSAUR MUSEUM Informative and bilingual, this spacious museum contains the most information available on dinosaurs found in Laos. Bones are displayed informally among several glass cases in each room. The English captions and brochure encourage self-learning and visitor interpretation.
When the French set up here in the early colonial days, Catholicism followed. Bolstered by many Catholic Vietnamese entrepreneurs settling in the downtown area, it has become a landmark for both locals and tourists. The doors are usually open during the day, inviting anyone to walk in and enjoy its understated Indochinese charm.
ST. THERESA’S CHURCH
DINOSAUR MUSEUM
19
STAY SAVAN RESORTS For people looking for something unique, or to strike it rich, this casino hotel will keep you occupied all day and night. Popular with Thai tourists playing a range of games like Baccarat and Hi-Lo, as well as roulette and slot machines, the hotel has upgraded its rooms and add more facilities to cater to families and children to create an all-inclusive resort.
SAVAN CAFÉ Set in a beautifully revitalized Chinese shophouse, the rooms are cozy and quaint, and some have private bathrooms. Once you lie down you will not want to get up, as the beds are some of the softest found in Asia. The downstairs area is a popular café and restaurant with great Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food and coffee, and the rooftop is also a bar in the evenings.
SAVAN RESORTS
SAVAN CAFÉ
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
20
INSIDE LAO AIRLINES
FLYING TO
NEW
HEIGHTS
Champa Meuanglao had the honor and pleasure of sitting down and getting to know the new President of Lao Airlines, Mr. Khamla Phommavanh.
21
Could you introduce yourself to our readers? It is an honor to be appointed as President of Lao Airlines by the government. I began my career with an engineering background, holding Bachelor’s and Master’s Degrees in Civil Engineering. From there I worked in various departments of the Ministry of Public Works and Transport (MoPWT), before my most recent position as Deputy Director-General of the Department of Planning and Cooperation for the MoPWT, where I was involved in short and long-term planning and strategy, including international cooperation, statistics, and large-scale investments in public works and transport. In which direction would you like to lead Lao Airlines in the future? Due to the global crisis going on now, I have the following thoughts on this answer. It’s best to look at two different situations affecting us. Firstly, we must manage ourselves to evade and surpass the Covid-19 crisis. Secondly, we already had a plan to revamp and revitalize the airline, but implementation may be delayed due to the pandemic. These plans must be very flexible, as it is still difficult to predict what the air travel situation may be like in six months or even a year. As a company, we must take every measure we can in order to increase efficiency and maximize revenue, while maintaining the high quality of services and safety that our passengers expect and deserve.
above: President Khamla Phommavanh accepts his new position.
“WE MUST MANAGE OURSELVES TO EVADE AND SURPASS THE COVID-19 CRISIS. […] WE ALREADY HAD A PLAN TO REVAMP AND REVITALIZE THE AIRLINE, BUT IMPLEMENTATION MAY BE DELAYED DUE TO THE PANDEMIC.”
What do you see are the strengths of Lao Airlines? As for the strengths of Lao Airlines, it has the distinction of being the national carrier of the Lao PDR. As such, it has received support and direction from the Lao Government. In addition, we have skilled and experienced mechanics and experts from the aviation sector, we have a business plan covering each period, alongside steady improvement in levels of service for Lao and foreign passengers. It has also received vitally important IATA and IOSA accreditations that are necessary to achieve international recognition as a safe airline for passengers from around the world. Where is your favorite place to travel? I have actually been to every destination that Lao Airlines flies to and visited many domestic and international sites. I am very pleased to say that each one is unique and worth visiting. Are there any new destinations opening up on the horizon for Lao Airlines? Once we are able to resume international travel, we plan to launch flights to neighboring countries, such as to Danang, Vietnam and to various cities in China. Once the crisis has passed, then we will be able to evaluate new potential destinations throughout the region. Is there anything else you would like to say to our readers? On behalf of Lao Airlines, I would like to give my highest thanks to the government and Lao and foreign passengers for supporting and using the services of Lao Airlines. We pledge to continue improving services, ensure safety, and modernize to connect the Lao PDR and neighboring countries in the region. We are ready to welcome you aboard with our smiles and service standards. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
22
INSIDE LAO AIRLINES
26
TRAVEL
THE
FIREBOAT FESTIVAL
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
27
A boat shaped like a mythical golden swan is released into the Mekong
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
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TRAVEL
1
A
t the end of Buddhist Lent, the green monsoon season draws to a close, and the harvest season begins. To give thanks for their livelihoods and annual bounty, Lao people make merit by making offerings to the mother spirit of rivers. In Luang Prabang, this is especially magical, as the entire town is lit with colorful lanterns and candles. Temples, homes, and businesses hang candlelit lanterns instead of electric lights, giving the city a magical glow. Each village works together to construct and decorate large boats with bamboo frames covered in colored paper and lights, ranging from simpler designs to very elaborate structures featuring mythical creatures.
MORE INFO This year's Fireboat Festival takes place on the 3rd of October. Lao Airlines has regular flights to Luang Prabang.
As dusk settles on the city, these heua fai, or fireboats, are paraded down the main street from Wat That Noy to Wat Xieng Thong amid revelry and music – and in near-total absence of electrical lighting. Onlookers line the sidewalks to get a glimpse of these fantastic creations in this procession. As they arrive in Wat Xieng Thong, they line up in the courtyard and are judged by local dignitaries. Then one by one, the boats are carried down the steps to the Mekong where they are launched into the river, offering thanks to the river and bringing good fortune to the village.
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1. Novices light small owershaped lanterns in the yard of Wat Xieng Mouan 2. Students carry lotus lanterns during the ďŹ reboat procession 3. The entire town comes to main street to watch and participate in the procession
2
3
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
30
TRAVEL
1
31
2
1. A young ďŹ re breather adds to the excitement of the festival 2. A Buddhist nun makes merit by lighting candles at a statue of a naga water spirit.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
1
2
33
3
1. This swan-shaped boat also carries a replica of the Watermelon Stupa found in Wat Visoun 2. Fireworks spraying sparks into the night sky at Wat Xieng Mouan 3. Small rowboats help guide the ďŹ reboats farther out into the Mekong so they are caught in the current
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
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FLAVORS
THE
OF
LAO CUISINE TEXT BY ADITTA KITTIKHOUN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
Jeo Mengda
I
t is no stretch of the truth to say that cuisine in the Asian region is one of the best in the world. Much of the food in Asia tends to be heavily spiced, packed with a multitude of flavors, and contain a lot of excess fats. In Laos, locals enjoy either the tangy punch of a good pork laap, zesty papaya salad, or a hot salty ox blood soup. But can Lao food be healthy? With rare exceptions, foreign visitors to Laos would generally concur that Lao food is quite tasty. But tasty doesn’t necessarily equate with healthy. Many Lao dishes can be really wholesome, especially those that undergo a more salubrious preparation process. Jeo (dips), stews, tossed salads, and steamed dishes are some of the healthier choices you can opt for if you want to avoid, especially if you want to lose, some kilos!
Dipping sauces (jeo)
Also known as Lao dipping sauces, these sumptuous melanges of pummeled spices, vegetables, and grilled meats (or insects) can constitute a whole meal accompanied by steamed greens and sticky rice. They can make for a healthy and filling lunch!
Jeo Bong
Jeo Mak Len
35
Jeo Kha
Jeo Mak Ped Yai
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
36
FLAVORS
Stews and soups (or-laam and kaeng)
The fabled or-laam, the Luang Prabang dish fit for kings, holds its place as the iconic Lao stew. An equally quintessential stew called kaeng nor mai (bamboo shoot soup) has yet to make an appearance on the international scene. While or-laam is not typically consumed as a soup, kaeng nor mai, with its slightly less viscous texture can be considered a fiber-rich soup.
Kaeng Nor Mai
Kaeng Som Pa
Or-Laam
Photos: courtesy of Kualao Restaurant ຮູບພາບຈາກ ຮ�ານອາຫານຄ�ວລາວ
37
Tossed salads (laap and koi)
Joup Pak
Any laap or koi variant, such as an ant egg salad that does not undergo a fried cooking process, is just about as healthy as Lao salads go. Xiengkouang’s joup pak (soup pak in other regions) of steamed greens represents a very traditional Lao salad.
Mok Pa
Banana leaf parcels (mok)
Mok is an ancient cooking technique by which meat and vegetables are steamed while wrapped inside banana leaves. This method not only infuses the ingredients with a subtly sweet aroma and flavor but also retains the nutritious vitamins present in the juices inside the leaf. A classic is mok pa, with a glorious mix of steamed fish, veggies, and other herbs.
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
AN EPIC BOLAVEN ROAD TRIP TEXT BY DYAN BARUTZKI PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ
39
T
he Bolaven Plateau is an adventurer’s paradise! Literally translated as “Home of the Laven,” the name honors the Laven ethnic group which was once more predominant here. ‘Doing the Bolaven Loop’ is a popular tourist activity all year round and it’s easy to see why. The area is rich with coffee plantations, glorious waterfalls, quaint little cafes and restaurants, botanical gardens, and farms – all easily accessible by either car or motorbike. There are two main routes. The bigger loop is around 320 km and includes more challenging routes through Sekong and Attapeu provinces, while the more famous smaller loop is around 200 km and can be easily done road-trip-style by car. Don’t forget to bring raincoats with you as the Bolaven weather is notorious for being unpredictable.
WEEKEND ITINERARY FOR THE SMALL BOLAVEN LOOP BY CAR AROUND 40KM FROM PAKSE A good way to start any road-trip is a strong cup of coffee. Halfway to Paksong, Lak40 Café serves an exquisite café latte and homegrown tea. A small family-run business, they recently established a bigger café to serve more customers. You can also take a walk around their backyard farm where they process their own products, if you’re lucky you might even spot a cacao tree or two! What about brunch? There are some good options around here. E-tu Garden is known for its homemade yogurt and Sabaidee Valley serves good proper food (in Laos that means rice and a viand). Now, time for an adventure! Seeing Tad Fane is a reward in itself. Fly At Tad Fane is currently the highest zipline in Laos. This unique venue allows visitors to zipline, enjoy a coffee (offers a bit more kick than the caffeine!), or lie in a hammock 220 meters over the stunning twin cascade waterfalls of Tad Fane. Take things down a notch and walk the steps towards the hut of Tad Yeuang (also spelled Gneuang or Yuang) for an epic selfie.
PAKSONG TOWN (KM50)
A typical early morning scene at the Bolaven Plateau
Be still my caffeinated heart. From the new Jing Jhai café at the entrance of Paksong town to Paksong Highland a little bit further, there is no shortage of coffee in this part of the plateau. If you want
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
40
SOUTHERN LAOS
1
to turn this into a longer trip, book a jeep tour of Khamsone’s Mystic Mountain Coffee plantation. Grab a bite to eat or try their famous softserve ice cream at Yamamoto café. Take your selfie game to another level by borrowing a kimono here and taking a picture at their flower garden or strawberry field (be sure to check if it’s the right season!).
THATENG DISTRICT (KM80) Drive a bit further to see the sprawling grounds of Sinouk Coffee Resort and to experience a tranquil dining experience at their restaurant overlooking the natural pool. Right across is the newly built Thateng Farm, good for families with small children or dogs. Look for hotel accommodation around this area or the neighboring Paksong town.
GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Pakse from Vientiane. MORE INFO
Please visit: southern-laos.com for more information about the Bolaven Plateau’s many ethnic groups and their textiles.
If you need an even more relaxing time, go see Captain Hook for his coffee tour. English might be a challenge without his younger brother there, but Hook can impress you with his Dutch words for sure.
BAN LAO NGAM (KM70) Right at the border of Salavan and Sekong provinces, you can stop by the Katou textile village for authentic souvenirs. Visit www.southern-laos.com for more information about the Bolaven Plateau’s many ethnic groups and their textiles. Stop by Vieng’s for a caffeine fix and a glimpse of the simple Katou village life.
KM33 Getting closer to Pakse again, visit Tad Pha Suam or Tad Champee for a quick nature trek and dip in its cool waters.
TAD LO (KM86) TURNING POINT Just seeing the three waterfalls here: Tad Lo, Tad Hang, and Tad Soung; already makes the ride worthwhile. A favorite of the backpackers here is Fandee Guesthouse, where basic wooden bungalows are as cheap as they get – the restaurant is even well-rated! If you want to stay longer here at Salavan, I encourage you to visit Fandee Adventure park for a “ziplines and jungle bridges” extravaganza!
PAKSE TOWN When you reach the end of your weekend journey, get that rewarding cocktail for your weary soul at the rooftop bar of Pakse Hotel or Residence Sisouk, which both have the best views of the town. For an excellent sunset over the Mekong, go to Mekong Paradise Hotel or Sala Gang Khong restaurant. Remember to always be a responsible traveler wherever you go!
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“My two favorite places in the Bolaven are Dan Sin Xay and Tad Tayicseua, for sure! Dan Sin Xay is a new eco-tourism spot where you can find the Champee River. You can trek through the lush vegetation of the coffee plantations here. The numerous waterfalls of Tad Tayicseua are breathtaking especially during the green season, another mustsee when you do the loop.”
2 1. Khamsone from Mystic Mountain Coffee shows guests how he processes his coffee products 2. The Katou ethnic tribe is known for their weaving and tobacco pipe (Korkder) 3. A tourist tries on a kimono at Yamamoto Farm 4. Fandee Guesthouse at Tad Lo 5. Tad Yeuang
Mr. Bounpon ‘Tiger’ Vunnaphone Tour Guide from EXO Travel
3
“One of the best places for me would be Nong Luang park. So much fresh air from the surrounding nature. This park is perfect for adventure lovers where you can zipline close to a huge
4 5
waterfall! You can also stay the night at one of the homestays in the village. The recommended activities here are trekking and camping.”
Mr. Tam Saybounkong Tour Guide from Thanongxay Tour Company
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
SOUTHERN LAOS
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
44
SOUTHERN LAOS
1
The perfect encounter between primitive and pure
YOUR AD HERE
+856 20 5573 1717 advertising@champameuanglao.com
SNAPSHOT
PHOU YA KHA PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN
T
he Phou Ya Kha area in Oudomxay’s Xay District has only recently been explored for tourism. This rocky mountainous  area is great for trekking and camping, and it is easy to access with a local guide, as the trailhead is located just 32 km outside of Oudomxay. One and two-night trekking adventures are available, so you can marvel at impressive views and unusual rock formations only found here, as well as breathing fresh mountain air as the stars twinkle overhead.
Immense boulder dot the landscape around Phou Ya Kha
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SNAPSHOT
1
GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has frequent flights to Oudomxay from Vientiane. Adventurous travelers can make their own way to KM32 village and find a local guide for the trek. Otherwise, Nam Kat Yorla Pa Resort (namkatyorlapa.com) can arrange 2 and 3-day excursions.
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3
1. It is important to take a local guide from KM 32 village as the trail is not well marked. 2. Large rock formations which resemble a whale and a dolphin. 3. A traveler hikes past a rock that look like leathery reptile skin due to centuries of erosion. 4. Sunset at Phou Ya Kha summit
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
52
SNAPSHOT
A bird’s eye view of Phou Ya Kha summit
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
1
1. Another interesting rock formation located on the return hike to KM 32 village 2. A traveler stops for a photo of a mountain cli 3. Starry night on Phou Ya Kha summit
2
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3
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
56
INSIGHTS
SUPPORTING LIVELIHOODS IN
AGRICULTURE
B
usinesses are only as great as their people. Therefore, it is important for Lao Tobacco Limited to support not only its employ ees but also the contracted farmer base. Farmers are a key element in Lao Tobacco’s business, as they provide a quality crop used for the manufacturer of local Lao Tobacco products. Lao Tobacco realizes that supporting its contracted farmers’ livelihoods is integral to maintaining a local sustainable supply of tobacco and our contracts secure the farmer a fair market for the tobacco crop. The farmers can then grow their crops with the assurance that they have support from Lao Tobacco. Lao Tobacco International supports farmers to receive good agricultural practice training to improve the yield and quality of tobacco, as well as other food crops. Not only does this improve their
Providing a guaranteed market for farmers. BY FRANCIS SAVANKHAM
yield, but also protects and maintains soil nutrients which will ensure that these crops continue to flourish in the future. Lao Tobacco helps farmers to protect their tobacco crop with compliant materials and ensures safe practices are followed on the farm. A sustainable supply of tobacco requires good agricultural practices to be upheld by farmers at all times. Lao Tobacco is committed to upholding high labor standards outlined by the International Labour Organization. In doing so, the Lao Tobacco team train contracted farmers based on the importance of these high standards and are proud to help raise the standard for agribusiness in Laos and will ensure that Lao Tobacco continues its trajectory of growth and success for years to come.
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
58
LAO CULTURE
THE
THAT LUANG FESTIVAL The country’s preeminent celebration is fun for everyone. TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA
A time-lapse photo of worshipers making a candlelit procession around That Luang stupa.
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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
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LAO CULTURE
E
very visitor to Vientiane will inevitably visit That Luang (the Great Stupa). This large golden spire encircled by 30 smaller spires, is the symbol of the nation and seen on everything from banknotes to t-shirts and instills a pervasive sense of pride among Lao people. According to the chronicle of the stupa, in 307 BCE, a delegation of Buddhist emissaries traveled around the area to spread the religion and brought along some of the Buddha’s bone fragments. These revered relics were placed inside a simple stone mound built on this site. Many wars and renovations followed in the ensuing millenia giving us the final monument seen today. Each year, in the week leading up to the full moon of the 12th lunar month (usually in November, but exceptionally this year on 31 October) the temple grounds erupt in a large festival, one of the largest in Laos. People from all over the country make the pilgrimage to Vientiane for this festival. Visiting That Luang Festival is a treat for the senses. A market fair is set up on the esplanade, where you can wander the stalls to find locally-made products such as traditional silk sinh wrap skirts, musical instruments, coffee, and tea, as well as imported mobile phones and household goods.
1
2
1. Almsiving during the That Luang Festival 2. Worshipers carry offerings to make merit 3. Large offerings are decorated with wax, flowers, and money as an offering to the stupa
3
61
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THAT LUANG 307 BCE Buddhist relics interred in a stone mound
1566 CE That Luang is renovated by Xaysetthathirath
1828 The city is sacked by Siam, That Luang is damaged and left in ruins
1900 France begins several restoration attempts of the stupa
Locals visiting from other regions of the country buy these as souvenirs and gifts to take back home. Walking through, you are hit by fragrant smells of all manner of ready-to-eat food, such as grilled chicken, sticky rice cooked in bamboo, meatballs, and fried noodles. Several stages are also erected at the market fair with a revolving set of cultural performances to delight the crowds from all over the country. These often include school groups performing traditional music and dances, as well as famous singers of mo lam, traditional folk music of jaunty lyrics sung to the pounding wails of a khaen, the traditional bamboo mouth organ. A midway with amusement rides also brings delight to teenagers who flock to see and be seen on the Ferris wheel and bumper cars. Fervor and crowds build throughout the week, culminating in a procession on 30 October from Wat Si Meuang to That Luang. Locals dress in their traditional clothes and carry large homemade offerings, called wax
castles, adorned with wax flowers and candles. These are a sign of great respect for the Buddha relic entombed inside the stupa. On the early morning of 31 October, locals dress in their finest silks and jostle for room on the esplanade as hundreds of monks wander past collecting alms. Later in the day, a traditional game of tikhy, similar to field hockey using curved bamboo sticks and a rattan ball, is played between symbolic teams representing the government and the people. This friendly game is only played once a year. When the government team wins, it is a sign that the people will be fairly governed, yet when the people's team wins, it is a sign that there will be no hunger and there will be good luck and prosperity for the next year. This is definitely a win-win situation! Finally, that evening, worshippers will visit That Luang stupa one more time carrying flowers, incense, and candles and circumambulate three times around the stupa asking for blessings and good fortune from this holy site. Good luck will allow us all to visit That Luang Festival again next year! SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
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LAO CULTURE
63
1
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
Lao Airlines Updates
LAO AIRLINES NEWS | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES
66
TIMETABLE
HOT LINE
68
FLIGHT ROUTES
WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ
LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su
10:30
-
12:30
QV811
07:40
-
Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25
PAKSE
13:25
QV535
09:25
09:45
1
ບາງກອກ -
10:55
QV223
AT7
0
ໂຮຈີມິນ -
11:20
QV515
DOMESTIC AT7 0 ROUTES
ສຽມຣຽບ
> SIEMREAP
SAVANNAKHET
A320
DAY
D
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su
1
ສິງກະໂປ W F Su
14
Transit (VTE) Arr
> HO CHI MINH T Th S
0
Dep. 09:30
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
AT7
ສິງກະໂປ
> SINGAPORE W F Su
S.
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
11
ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S
12
ສຽມຣຽບ
Daily
13:00
-
14:00
QV513
AT7
0
Daily
14
T Th
08:55
-
09:55
QV511
AT7
0
T Th
10
ບາງກອກ
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
08:25
-
Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55
10:55
QV223
AT7
1
Dep. 09:25
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
1
Transit (PKZ) Arr
DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY
VIENTIANE FLIGHT ROUTES
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
S.
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
> LUANGPRABANG
DAY
D
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
Daily
09:10
-
10:00
QV111
AT7
0
M T Th S
07
Daily
11:30
-
12:15
QV101
A320
0
W F Su
07
T W Th S Su 13:00
-
13:45
QV105
A320
0
Daily
13
T W Th S Su
14
M T Th S
17:00
-
17:45
QV103
A320
0
M W F Su
18
W F Su
17:00
-
17:45
QV536
A320
0
T Th S
18
> LUANGNAMTHA
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
LAO AIRLINES OFFICES
INTERNATIONAL OFFICES
DOMESTIC OFFICES
Bangkok
Vientiane (VTE)
Town Office 491/17 ground Fl, Silom Plaza, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel: (66-2) 236 9822 / (66-2) 236 9823 / (66-2) 237 8044 Fax: (66-2) 236 9821 Email: bkkrrqv@ksc.th.com Suvarnabhumi Airport 2nd Floor of AOB building, Room No. Z010 Tel: (66-2) 134 2006 to 2008 Fax: (66-2) 134 2009
Chiangmai
2/107 Ratchaphruek, Huaykaew Road, Amphoe Muang, Chiangmai 50300, Thailand Tel: (66-53) 223 401, Fax: (66-53) 223 400 Email: qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th
Hanoi
03 Lieu Giai Str, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: (84-4) 394 25362, Fax: (84-4) 394 25363 Email: laoairlines.han@fpt.vn / qvhan@laoairlines.com
Hochiminh
11A Song Da, Dist Tan Binh, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84) 912 070 045 Email: qvsgn@laoairlines.com
Ticketing and Reservation Office Tel: (856-21) 212051-54 or 1626 Email: vtersqv@laoairlines.com / vtessqv@laoairlines.com onlinebooking@laoairlines.com Airport Offices Tel: (856-21) 513032
Luang Prabang (LPQ)
Town Office Tel: (856-71) 212172, Fax: (856-71) 212406 Email: lpqssqv@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-71) 212173, Fax: (856-71) 252264 Email: lpa@laoairlines.com
Xiengkhouang (XKH)
Town Office Tel: (856-61) 312027, Fax: (856-61) 312487 Email: xkh@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-61) 312177
Luang Namtha (LXG)
Phnompenh
58 B Sihanouk Avenue, Phnompenh, Cambodia Tel: (855-23) 222956 / (855-23) 216 563, Fax: (855-23) 216 563 Email: laoairlines.qvpnh@online.com.kh
Town Office Luangnamtha rd., Nongbouavieng Village, Luangnamtha Province Tel: (856-86) 212072 / 212186, Fax: (856-86) 212073 Email: lxg@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-86) 312180, 312053
Siem Reap
Oudomsay (ODY)
N.C10,C12, Angkor Shopping Acade National Road 6, Kruos Village, Svay Dangkum Commune, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia Tel: (855-63) 963169, Fax: (855-63) 963 283 | Skype ID: helpdesk_qvrep Email: qvreptkt@laoairlines.com
Kunming
No52 East Dong Feng Road, Kunming Yunnan, China Tel: (86-871) 63125748 / (86)-13987182913 Email: Kunming@laoairlines.com
Guangzhou
Room 1208,12 floor, Main tower, Guangdong International Building, 339 Huanshi Dong Road, Guangzhou, China P.C: 510098 Tel: (8620) 838 840 85, Fax: (8620) 838 840 95 Email: canqv@laoairlines.com
Jing Hong
Ground Floor King Land Hotel, 6 Jing De Road, Jing Hong Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China Tel: (86-692) 12199515 / (0086) 13988136962 Fax: (86-692) 12199515 Email: qvjhg@laoairlines.com
Seoul
Gwang Hwa Mun Centre Point Building 5F31SaeMunAn-Ro 5-gil (Doryum-dong 65) Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: (82-2) 6262-0808,0809,0810 / (82-2) 6262-0800,0811,0822 / (82-2) 6262-0819 Fax: (82-2) 6262-0844 Email: ticketing.sel@laoairlines.com
Tel: (856-81) 312047, 312146, Fax: (856-81) 212229 Email: ody@laoairlines.com
Savannakhet (ZVK)
Dongdamdouan Village, Khaysonephomvihane District, Savannakhet Province Tel: (856-41) 212140, 252198, Fax: (856-41) 251060 Email: zvk@laoairlines.com
Pakse (PKZ)
11 Road, Phatthana Lakmueng Village, Pakse District, Champasak Province Tel: (856-31) 212252, Fax: (856-31) 212751 Email: pkz@laoairlines.com
69
70
LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS
WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ
LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su
10:30
-
12:30
QV811
07:40
-
Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25
PAKSE
13:25
QV535
09:25
09:45
1
ບາງກອກ -
10:55
QV223
AT7
0
ໂຮຈີມິນ -
11:20
QV515
AT7
0
ສຽມຣຽບ
> SIEMREAP
SAVANNAKHET
A320
DAY
D
ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su
1
ສິງກະໂປ W F Su
14
Transit (VTE) Arr
> HO CHI MINH T Th S
0
Dep. 09:30
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
AT7
ສິງກະໂປ
> SINGAPORE W F Su
S.
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
11
ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S
12
ສຽມຣຽບ
Daily
13:00
-
14:00
QV513
AT7
0
Daily
14
T Th
08:55
-
09:55
QV511
AT7
0
T Th
10
ບາງກອກ
> BANGKOK M W F S Su
08:25
-
Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55
10:55
QV223
AT7
1
Dep. 09:25
ບາງກອກ M W F S Su
1
Transit (PKZ) Arr
DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY
VIENTIANE
DEP.
ARR.
FLIGHT NO.
A/C
S.
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
> LUANGPRABANG
DAY
D
ຫຼວງພະບາງ
Daily
09:10
-
10:00
QV111
AT7
0
M T Th S
07
Daily
11:30
-
12:15
QV101
A320
0
W F Su
07
T W Th S Su 13:00
-
13:45
QV105
A320
0
Daily
13
T W Th S Su
14
M T Th S
17:00
-
17:45
QV103
A320
0
M W F Su
18
W F Su
17:00
-
17:45
QV536
A320
0
T Th S
18
> LUANGNAMTHA
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ
ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ
*:
*
6
Official Lao Airlines Inflight Magazine
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2020
