Champa Meuanglao: January / February 2020

SOUTHERN LAOS A magical retreat

SWANNING AROUND From New York to Souan Mone

NONG KHIAW

Charming Nong Khiaw in pictures

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

HUANG XIAOMING. Tissot Le Locle powermatic 80.

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT WITH SEE-THROUGH CASEBACK.

#ThisIsYourTime TISSOT BOUTIQUE & SERVICE CENTER WORLDTIME - SIHOM NO. 83, UNIT 09, ANOU VILLAGE, CHANTHABOULY DISTRICT, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR, TEL : +856-20-555 24 098 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.SH@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM

TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

WORLDTIME - VIENTIANE CENTER NO. 13, KHOUVIENG ROAD, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, GROUND FLOOR, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR. TEL: +856-20-555 24 097 EMAIL: WORLDTIME.VC@JKALEXINTERNATIONAL.COM OFFICIAL RETAILER: TAIFA TIME TRADERS 132, # 62/3 NONGBONE ST, NONGCHAN VILLAGE, SISATTANAK DISTRICT, VIENTIANE, LAOS PDR . TEL: + 856-21-215 268

BOUNMA CHANTHAVONGSA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES

Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines.

Happy new year to all of our passengers. On the occasion of New Year 2020, we begin a new decade. I would like to extend our best wishes for our passengers to be healthy and successful in everything they do, and to be happy and fortunate in this new year.

I am pleased to inform you that Lao Airlines will begin a new route between Vientiane–Kumamoto and Luang Prabang– Kumamoto in Japan, which will begin service in March 2020.

Kumamoto is an important tourism city on Kyushu Island, full of natural tourist sites and beautiful architecture, which entices an endless stream of tourists to visit.

Lao Airlines is ready to serve you every time, whether near or far. I hope that Lao Airlines will be your choice as a convenient method of transport to your destination and we hope that we can welcome you aboard a flight with us again soon.

Safe travels.

With highest respects, Bounma Chanthavongsa President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello readers, Welcome to the January-February issue of Champa Meuanglao.

In this new decade, we bring you more exotic places to visit and interesting travel ideas.

In this issue, we see the beauty of northern Laos at Nong Khiaw, as well as visit the charming city of Champasak in southern Laos.

COVER IMAGE The scenic entrance to Pha Kuang Cave, near Nong Khiaw Photo by Phoonsab Thevongsa

We taste the creative cuisine cooked up by Tyson at Swan Restaurant in Vientiane. Get a feel of the creative art scene in Laos in our style guide. At Belle J, get a taste for their delicious fare and chill vibes.

PUBLISHING Editor In Chief

In Luang Prabang, learn about some rescued bears in a conservation center, as well as the amazing buffalos who produce a delicious line of dairy products available around the city.

Editors

Outside of Vientiane is the charming Lao Lake House – inviting for a weekend getaway. Also, check out the capital’s newest address at SureStay Hotel, right downtown.

Managing Editor Contributing Editor Creative Director

Finally, experience all of the hospitality, charm, and panoramic views at View Point Cafe.

Assistant Designer

Happy Reading!

Contributing Writers

The Champa Meuanglao Publishing Team

ADVISORY BOARD Bounma Chanthavongsa President Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

Jason Rolan Cameron Darke Aditta Kittikhoun Duangtavanh Oudomchith Angkhana Vongphukdy Jochen Moravek Thanouphet Maniseng Benny Omar Bounpone Vannaphone Claire Boobbyer Dominique le Roux Melody Kemp Rosemary Murphy Vanida Phimphrachanh Phoonsab Thevongsa Alen Chit Ton Phanumad

ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Manager

Prae Phongpipatkul prae.phongpipatkul@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 95646578

Sales & Marketing Executive

Souphaphone Insixiengmay souphaphone.insixiengmay@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55471337

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos

RDK GROUP 134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved. Copyright © 2020 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group. www.champameuanglao.com

Listening. Understanding. Delivering.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

CONTENTS

28

32

56

52 50

18

12

14

16

18

WHAT'S ON

FOOD CAPITAL

MADE IN LAOS

FLAVORS

Our guide to events

The foodie's guide

Showcasing the best

Swanning around

in Laos

to Vientiane

Lao products

Souan Mone

24

28

32

44

50

STAY

WILDLIFE

SNAPSHOT

STYLE

GETAWAY

Surestay Hotel is turning

Caring for bears

Charming Nong Khiaw

Soulscapes – Lao decor

Lao Lake House is

for your home

closer than you think

heads

52

56

60

64

69

NIGHTLIFE

SOUTHERN LAOS

CLOSE-UP

WINE & DINE

ON THE AIR

A beautiful night

A magical retreat from

Beasts of burden and

Viewpoint Restaurant

Timetables and

at Belle J

the modern world

dairy

and Café

contact details

12

WHAT'S ON

WHAT'S ON?

Laos is full of colorful festivals and celebrations happening all the time.

Stay up to date on events going on around the country and join in the fun!

8–12

JANUARY

22

22–28

FEBRUARY

FEB.

MUANG PHIENG, XAYABOURY

XAYABOULY

After the harvest ends, Lao people make merit to the rice spirits for a plentiful harvest the next year.

Phieng District celebrates this with large ceremonial haystacks and traditional market fairs and festivities.

A celebration of Laos’ largest animal, the elephant. Parades and ceremonies are held to make merit for these great beasts, which helped build the country.

BOUN KONG KHAO

7 –9

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

13 –15

FEBRUARY VIENTIANE

FEB FESTIVAL

On the outskirts of the capital, a colorful Instagram-friendly music festival sets up on a hilly field. Several stages play local and regional music to youthful crowds.

MARCH

VIENTIANE

BANLAO.LA EXPO 2020

Looking for a new home or property investment? Come to Laos' biggest and best Homes, Loans & Lifestyle Expo this March 2020 for the best deals, 3 days only at the Lao National Convention Center.

CHAMPASAK

WAT PHOU FESTIVAL

Southern Laos’ largest festival.

People gather over several days to make merit at this ancient temple.

Concerts, processions, boat racing, competitions, and a market fair are all part of the event.

14–16

FEB.

BOKEO

KAPOK FLOWER FESTIVAL

Each year, the Kapok trees on Don Xao island bloom to their fullest and everyone gathers to enjoy the wonderful colors, as well as partake in cultural events.

Xayabouly's Elephant Festival

To list your event here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

14

FOOD CAPITAL

food CAPITAL

Benny Omar navigates the movable feast of Vientiane Capital, a town of exciting cuisines and dining experiences, with everything from sizzling street fare, cafe cool, or fine dining gourmandise.

Benny Omar is a food & travel blogger based in Vientiane.

Visit his page online: facebook.com/vientianelifestyle

BURGERS

THE ZIXGAR While dim lighting, black metal, raw cement walls, and wooden furniture evoke the mysterious atmosphere of a cafe, the drink, however, takes on a friendlier approach, including freshly brewed coffee. Post-work hours see the office set coming here to enjoy a selection of craft beers, comfort food, and coffee-infused alcoholic drinks.

The food is equally inviting with plenty of dishes on the menu, including the usual suspects like burgers, seafood, tom yum, and steaks.

Kamphengmeuang Road Tues–Sun 8 am – 10 pm @Thezixgarvte

VEGETARIAN LAO FOOD

THE LIVING LIBRARY

don't miss

Pineapple, Grilled Chicken with Teriyakito sauce

Whether you have dietary restrictions or just prefer to eat more greens and grains, The Living Library, formally the Lao National Library, is churning out wholesome meals that are completely meat-free without compromising on taste.

Far from sad salads and countless carbs, this new spot in town packs flavor and character into plant-based dishes. With cuisines ranging from warm salads to herbal soups, vegans and vegetarians have tons of choice.

CAFE

BLUEKOFF VIENTIANE A bean-roaster, wholesaler, and retailer first, but also inviting to sit in its cafe for a hearty breakfast paired with a cuppa.

The beans come from all over the world but are finished in-house to create the perfect espresso blend. Their popular croissants, like charcoal Thai tea and chocolate lava, have already made waves in the culinary scene.

don't miss

Salted egg croissant

don't miss

Herbal Rice Salad with Mix Vegetables Khamphengmeuang Road, Phonthan Village Mon–Sun 8 am– 6 pm @Bluekoffvientiane

Pangkham Street Mon–Sun 7 am – 9 pm @Thelivinglibrary

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MADE IN LAOS

MADE IN LAOS

Looking for the perfect memento from your trip to Laos?

Whether shopping for souvenirs or sampling some delicious Lao snacks, Champa Meuanglao has chosen a few of the best local products.

TAILEU CUSHION COVER Naturally dyed, handwoven, and sewn by Taileu women, in Nambak, Northern Luang Prabang.

280,000 LAK

POT RESTS AND COASTERS Give the gift of sustainability with pot rests and coasters upcycled from newspaper and magazines, created by the women of Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre.

15,000 / 50,000 LAK Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre Thadeua Road, Vientiane laodisabledwomen.com

Ma Té Sai Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang matesai.com

LE TRIO COFFEE Just in time for their 10th anniversary, Le Trio coffee comes in a new look and offers 4 different blends of 100% Lao coffee roasted daily in their boutique cafe.

35,000 –55,000 LAK Le Trio Coffee Setthathirath Road, Vientiane facebook.com/letriocoffee

BBL GANODERMA POWDER CAPSULES BBL ganoderma powder capsules, made of wild ganoderma lucidum, originated from Laos’ primary forest, helps protect your liver health from excessive smoking and drinking, poor sleep, hypertension, high cholesterol and diabetes.

258,000 LAK BBL (Laos) Agricultural Resources Co.Ltd. Ban Nakham, Vientiane WECHAT 微信��: BBL98666618

To list your products here, contact: advertising@champameuanglao.com

18

FLAVORS

SWANNING AROUND FROM

NEW YORK TO

SOUAN MONE

The tastiest recipe for happiness.

TEXT BY MELODY KEMP PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

I

t’s not often that one meets someone so totally in love with what they do, it actually shines. Tyson Ophaso, his hair slicked back in the latest style, smiles, and gestures at his vast garden, “I love what I do. I start the day in the garden picking fresh ingredients which I combine with happiness and my love of cooking.”

He brings with him the style and excellence learned from a long career in the US. That he has high standards is immediately obvious. A quick look at the kitchen tells you that this man is a master. Rows of copper pans give levity to the context of discipline.

At lunch, my fabulous slice of salmon crowns a circlet of fresh crunch-cooked zucchini and carrots picked that morning, basted with a wine-based sauce. At great value, and worth leaving the city center for.

My friends agree. Welcome to Swan, where beauty and quality make for fine dining.

So how does a man who spent thirty-two years in the US, working in some of the finest establishments in New York and Los Angeles, end up in Souan Mone on the outskirts of Vientiane?

“Laos is my birthplace. I started to feel like I needed to reconnect with home. Nature was telling me I had to get moving.

It took three years of planning as I was a corporate chef with a substantial hospitality business based in New York. We managed hotels, night clubs, restaurants, and food

1

MORE INFO Swan is 6 km south of town in Souan Mone Village, Vientiane.

For more info visit facebook.com/ swanrestaurantlaos left: Tyson plates a dish in his kitchen 1. Tuna tartare with avocado & yuzu dressing 2. The dining room at Swan

2

services. Our job was to design entire concepts in food and hospitality. I was traveling a lot and it was stressful. Corporate America demands high standards.”

“I guess the kicker was when I fell sick a few times. Nothing can capture the loneliness of being ill in a big city. Family is the best medicine.”

“I do miss the opera, theatre, the arts generally, and the convenience of living in a city with good public transport. Instead of Manhattan’s high-rise skyline I now have trees. I wake up in a garden instead of a crowded city. It doesn’t get better than this.”

“It all started in high school. I was fourteen and living in New York with my cousin. A friend suggested I work at his uncle’s restaurant. I agreed and was so glad I did. Watching the men and women cooking, peeling vegetables, juggling pots, flavoring food, was like theatre. I was entranced as they all had their role in this dream that ended with wonderful food. I was hooked.”

He’s been hooked since. The food I had at Swan is inventive, fresh, well balanced. Tyson mixes cultural references, a touch of chili in a tartare, the warm tang of basil on salmon. The zing of ginger.

Dinner was preceded by three amuse bouche, a tiny ball of grated carrot in a chair of seeds and nuts, followed by a tuna tartare resting on a bed of herbed cucumber, and to top this, a slice of just-cooked duck breast served with apple and a disc of pumpkin circled with a sauce made from Cointreau and passionfruit juice.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

20

FLAVORS

1. The chic exterior of Swan 2. Tyson baking his own rolls 3. Pasta with crispy bacon, butter, garlic, parsley

1

“INSTEAD OF MANHATTAN’S HIGH-RISE SKYLINE, I NOW HAVE TREES. I WAKE UP IN A GARDEN INSTEAD OF A CROWDED CITY. IT DOESN’T GET BETTER THAN THIS.”

3

2

“I brought back the high standards. Yes, I do inspect kitchen staff’s hands,” he laughed as I tried to hide my own dirty nails from my own morning in the garden.

You must be thinking, that would cost a fortune – way out of my price range. That is five-star food.

It follows the prices would reflect that. But Tyson’s philosophy does not equate quality with cost.

“I’m an investor. Not with money but with reputation, excellence, staff development, making a beautiful place that I hope will become a regular haunt for some. I hope our guests can leave their anxieties at the door and simply enjoy the beauty of the surroundings, the attention of my wonderful staff and the good food.”

“I realize I have to build clientele. It’s the same as planting seeds. You have to wait to get a result.

I am hoping our reputation for value and excellence tempts people to come, even if it is out of town. In fact, that is why I chose this place. It did not remind me of Manhattan!”

Night. The moon cut through the spreading branches of the Poinciana still in bloom, and the air smelled of wet grass. As I wound down the path having just had two glasses of very good house wine and a variety of fabulous entrees, my thoughts were romantic. What a place to bring a lover; or a much-loved relative, a partner on an anniversary, or just yourself with a good book.

22

FLAVORS

1

2

24

STAY

REST

ASSURED

SureStay Hotel by Best Western Vientiane is already turning heads.

TEXT BY CAMERON DARKE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / SURESTAY HOTEL

V

ientiane, like many Southeast Asian cities, will launch an immediate assault on your senses. The sights, sounds, and smells are unlike any other region in the world; the screeching brakes of a passing tuk-tuk or the crow of an urban rooster, the colorful cityscape of extravagant temple facades, and the smoky aroma of meats roasted right on the sidewalk. While a stroll around town is both fascinating and hectic, at the end of the day it’s time for a rest.

25

left: SureStay by By Best Western 1. A room with a view 2. A secluded balcony attached to a suite 3. The beautiful hotel lobby MORE INFO SureStay Hotel by Best Western is located in Ban Wat Chan, Vientiane. For reservations: surestayvientiane.com +856 21 249 999 1

SureStay Hotel by Best Western Vientiane is the perfect place to do just that. Located right in the heart of downtown Vientiane, it is a haven for respite after a long day. The hotel, mimicking an art deco style, combines modern design with fine craftsmanship, harking back to the days of travel in luxury and glamor. The complex boasts 68 rooms and suites, a restaurant, gym, and a rooftop bar with some of the most incredible sunset views in the city.

As hands-on as anyone can get, project developer Phonsak Sayarath says he dreamed of building his own hotel from a young age.

“I spent my childhood sketching away at different building designs. I always knew that someday I would build a hotel,” says Phonsak. “I’m pleased that my hotel now gives visitors a new high-end option for a relaxing stay in the heart of Vientiane.”

And with SureStay, Phonsak has gone to great lengths to do just that. Every tile, each coat of paint, and every marble finish was chosen personally by Phonsak and his mother to ensure that the hotel would match the look and feel that he had in mind.

“I devoted all my time to getting this hotel just right. I even slept at the site sometimes right up until completion.”

And Phonsak says working with Best Western has been a smooth process. Because the first Best Western was already established in Vientiane, the company was confident that his hotel would fit their brand.

Phonsak’s hotel is the first of the SureStay branded properties in Asia, and he’s been told it’s likely the nicest. The broad, arched doorways have already begun turning heads from passers-by, while inside, high ceilings over black and white mosaic tiles hint at modernist design. On the rooftop, the Tipsy Elephant bar is an assuredly tropical affair, offering a view of the Mekong River perfect for a cocktail at sundown.

After a long day of sightseeing or a lengthy business meeting, travelers can rest assured that a quiet, relaxing stay in luxurious comfort awaits them at SureStay Hotel by Best Western Vientiane.

2

“I’M PLEASED THAT MY HOTEL NOW GIVES VISITORS A NEW HIGH-END OPTION FOR A RELAXING STAY IN THE HEART OF VIENTIANE.”

3

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

26

STAY

舒心酒店 您的舒适之选

最佳西方舒心酒店正在成为万象旅行住处的新宠。 翻译 尹航

图片来源 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / 舒心酒店

像

项目开发人员所有事都亲历亲为，项目开发经理Phonsak

Sayarath说他从小就有一个建造自己酒店的梦想。

“我从小就开始素描各种建筑设计。我一直都相信有一天我

会建一家酒店。 ” “虽然有些人可能不想进入服务行业，但我喜欢与 人互动。我享受把快乐带给他人的感觉。 ”

通过舒心酒店，Phonsak竭尽全力做到这一点。 Phonsak和

许多东南亚城市一样，万象一定会立即

更多信息

和气味不同于世界上任何其他地方：路

Wat Chan村。

触发的您感官享受。这里的风景，声响， 过的嘟嘟车发出刺耳的刹车声或公鸡的

鸣叫声音，城市内寺庙的外墙色彩斑斓，人行道上的烤肉

摊上飘来阵阵的烟熏香气。市内一圈逛下来是既让人着 迷，又觉得忙碌，夜晚降临，终于可以好好休息一下了。

最佳西方舒心酒店位于万象 预订：surestayvientiane.com +856 21 249 999

他的母亲亲自选择了所有瓷砖，油漆和大理石饰面，以确保酒店与 他的设想一致。

“我有生意要经营，但是我花了一半的工作时间在这家酒店

上。有时我甚至在现场通宵，直接睡在工地了。 ” 与最佳西方的合作一直很顺利。

“他们很容易合作。因为最佳西方酒店已经在有一家店万象，

所以他们很有心我们的酒店适合这个品牌。 ”

Phonsak的酒店是舒心品牌在亚洲的第一家品牌加盟店，有

万象最佳西方舒心酒店就是您放松休息的不二之

人告诉他这也可能是最好的一个。宽阔的拱形门口已经开始引起

所。这家酒店的装饰非常艺术，将现代设计与精致的手工

着现代主义的设计。在屋顶上，Tipsy Elephant酒吧充满着热带风

选。位于万象市中心地带，这里是漫长游览过后的休闲之 艺相结合，使您回到豪华和经典的旅行时代。该酒店大楼 共有68间客房和套房，餐厅，健身房和屋顶酒吧，那里可 欣赏到令人难以置信的日落美景。

路过客人的注意，而内部黑色和白色马赛克瓷砖的高天花板暗示 情，可欣赏湄公河的美景，只等着日落享受一杯鸡尾酒了。

经过一整天的观光或长时间的商务会议，旅行者可以放心，最

佳西方万象舒心酒店定为您提供安静，放松，豪华舒适的住宿。

27

1

2

“虽然有些人可能不想进入服务业， 但我喜欢与人互动。

我享受把快乐带给他人的感觉。 ”

3

左：舒心酒店

1. 迷人的日落景象 2. 在天台酒吧倒一杯 鸡尾酒

3. 客房 4. 酒店健身房

4 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

28

WILDLIFE

BEAR

CARE

Helping bears is barely a small job.

TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREE THE BEARS

M

ost of us have little to do with bears. We love Winnie the Pooh, but what about the ursine creatures from the rugged mountains of Laos?

Along the main footpath leading to Kouang Si waterfall, visitors are able to view rescued bears feeding, playing and resting in their forest enclosures at the Free the Bears Tat Kouang Si Bear Rescue Centre. Visitors can learn of the cruel bear bile trade and the history and current work of the Australian non-profit charity. Free the Bears (FTB) also offers wildlife fans the

GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Luang Prabang.

The Tat Kouang Si Bear Rescue Centre is located about 30 km southwest of the city at Kouang Si Falls.

MORE INFO For more information on the Bear Care Tour and to book please visit freethebears.org/pages/ bear-care-tour-laos

chance to go behind the scenes with a Bear Care Tour. The Bear Care Tour provides guests the opportunity to learn more about what it takes to care for the bears. Participants learn about individual bears and then challenge the foraging skills of the bears by making enrichment and hiding food in the forest enclosures.

Established in 2003, the Rescue Centre is 23km outside of Luang Prabang. There are currently over 30 moon bears at the rescue center, ranging from cubs to fully grown adults, all of which have the distinctive white V crescent on their chests from which their name is derived. Moon bears, also known as Asiatic black bears, are classed as a vulnerable species by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). In Laos, their numbers are threatened by bile farms and the illegal wildlife trade. Bile farming is a cruel practice which sees bears confined to tiny cages throughout their lifetime, and bile removed daily from the gallbladders using a catheter. Moon bears are also

29

killed for parts and traditional medicine and some are kept as “trophy” pets or used in restaurants and shops to lure visitors.

Nikki Brown, FTB’s Laos Education Technical Advisor, tells me that all of the sanctuary animals are rescued from the illegal wildlife trade. She informs me “There are still around 120 bears kept in illegal bile farms, or as pets, in Laos.” The Lao Department of Forestry Inspection and FTB are working closely to try to end this practice. Bear bile is used in traditional medicine claimed to help various ailments including aches and pains, headaches, fevers, inflammation, liver disease, and to dissolve gallstones, although there is no scientific evidence to support these claims.

Nikki says, “there are many safer, cheaper and more effective remedies that could be taken, including herbal medicines and over the counter medicines”. Korean, Vietnamese, and Chinese people are the main buyers of bile and new information in these languages has been printed at Kouang Si for natives of these countries to read. Yet

by November 2019, FTB had already rescued 17 bears, a record year of Lao rescues for the charity.

With the growing numbers of bear rescues over the past 4 years, it became clear that FTB needed to expand in Laos. In 2017 the Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary (LPWS) was opened. The sanctuary will house up to 150 bears and also provides facilities for other rescued and endangered species affected

1

left: Free the Bears cares for over 75 rescued moon bears in Laos 1. Mei li and Zhuxiong exploring LPWS's red panda palace 2. & 3. Bears looking for snacks at Luang Prabang Wildlife Sanctuary

2

3

by the illegal wildlife trade including macaques, leopard cats, birds, civets, and red pandas, rescued after being smuggled from China into Laos. Nikki informs me “The new site also features a Wildlife Hospital and we are currently completing a Quarantine House and Cub Nursery. In the future, we will have accommodation for volunteers to stay and help care for the bears and other wildlife.”

After learning all the information about FTB and its work in Laos, Nikki introduced me to some of the rescued bears. Moonie McGuinness suffered a snare injury on her right foot and has no claws; Bindi was found inside a plastic tube on the back of a motorbike; Brenda and Beryl were rescued as two-month-old cubs – confiscated from villagers by the police.

When I joined the Bear Care Tour, I worked with Nikki and the team to prepare and hide the food in one of the enclosures. We wrapped dog biscuits, sunflower seeds, and peanuts in large leaves, securing them tightly with the stalk, then hid them around the enclosure.

We then witnessed the feeding frenzy from a platform overlooking the compound, laughing as they tumbled in to hunt for the nutritious leaf ball snacks. The bears stood up, shaking poles to dislodge the food, and clambered quickly up onto the platforms in search of pumpkin, parsnip, and sweet potato.

The Bear Care Tour is an experience I would definitely recommend during any stay in Luang Prabang, and 100% of the money helps Free the Bears to continue its essential work to rescue the bears of SE Asia kept illegally as pets or in bile farms, as well as help look after the bears currently under their care.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

30

WILDLIFE

关爱小熊 救助小熊无小事。 翻译 航 图片来源 AXXXXXXX

救助小熊组织（FTB）于2003年设立了Tat Kouang Si 小熊救助中心，该中

心目前包括幼崽及成年月熊共30只。在老挝，他们的数量受到活熊取胆和非 法野生动物贸易的威胁。月熊被因传统中药需求被杀害，或被餐厅游览区等 圈养来吸引游客参观。

我了解到，所有这里被收养的所动物都是从非法野生动物贸易中获救的。 工作人员告诉我： “在老挝非法胆汁养殖场里和被圈养的熊还有大约120多 只。”老挝林业检查局和FTB密切合作试图终止这种现象。传统医学中，熊胆 被认为可以缓解各种疾病，包括消除疼痛，头痛，发烧，炎症，肝脏疾病以及

溶解胆结石等，不过目前并没有科学证据支持这些说法。由于韩国人，越南 人和中国人是熊胆汁的主要购买者，Tat Kouang Si 中心的信息发布也被翻

译成以上语言以便他们阅读。截至2019年11月，FTB已经营救了17只熊，这 是老挝慈善机构营救数量的最高纪录。

随着月熊救援数量不断增加，很明显，FTB需要扩大规模，因此

2017年，琅

勃拉邦野生动物保护区（LPWS）成立了。该庇护所最多可容纳150只熊，还 为遭受非法野生动物贸易影响的其他获救和濒危物种提供援助设施，包括 猕猴，豹猫，鸟类，香椿和小熊猫，这些动物是从中国走私到老挝后获救的。

当我参加保护小熊之旅时，我与Nikki及其团队合作，将准备好的食物藏在 围场内，我们从一个俯瞰平台上边观察他们，边被他们他们跌跌撞撞地寻找 食物的可爱样子逗的哈哈大笑。 我强烈推荐在琅勃拉邦（Luang

Prabang）逗留期间进行一次保护小熊之

旅，最重要的是100％的收费将用于帮助解救小熊组织在东南亚开展工作： 挽救非法圈养或活熊取胆的小熊，以及照顾目前正在需要帮助的小熊。 有关保护小熊之旅的更多信息及预订，请访问 bear-care-tour-lao

freethebears.org/pages/

SNAPSHOT

charming

NONG KHIAW

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA TEXT BY JASON ROLAN

Locals watch the sunset from the Ou River bridge in Nong Khiaw

J

ust 140km north of Luang Prabang sits the charming town of Nong Khiaw, hugging the banks of the Ou River among rugged karst mountains. An ideal jumping-off point for kayaking or caving or hiking, the town itself is an even-more chilled out location than popular Vang Vieng.

An hour’s boat journey north brings you to the zen backpacker retreat of Meuang Ngoi – a one-street village full of river-facing guesthouses with hammocks on their verandahs, caves to visit, and local villages you can trek.

Both spots are perfect for relaxation and exploration – you will wish you stayed longer and will want to return often to this scenic little piece of heaven.

34

SNAPSHOT

1

35

1. A bridge spanning the Ou River and linking Luang Prabang and Houaphan Provinces 2. An aerial view of Meuang Ngoi anked by karst. This was the district capital until war drove villagers south to Nong Khiaw.

3. Colorful ďŹ shing boats are used daily by locals to collect their primary source of protein.

4. The splendid ambiance of an Ou River sunset

2

3 4

The view from the top of Pha Daeng (Red Cliff ) in Nong Khiaw

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

38

SNAPSHOT

1

1. Guesthouses line the one street of Meuang Ngoi 2. During the Indochina War, some bombs were dropped in the area, causing locals to move southward to safety 3. The scenic entrance to Pha Kuang Cave, near Nong Khiaw

2

3 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

Plastic

EsE FR Lao

HELPING HOSPITALITY BUSINESSES ELIMINATE SINGLE-USE PLASTICS The Plastic Free Laos Label is a certification scheme managed by the Lao SME Service Centre. It offers guidelines and incentives to assist accommodation providers, restaurants and coffee shops to reduce their use of single-use plastics to protect the environment and save money.

Meet our very first members and learn about their aspiration.

MAISON SOUVANNAPHOUM “This certification scheme will provide us tools and training for our associates. We also would like to be one of the hotels to promote plastic free operation in the region and label will help us to communicate with our guests better. The training will help our associates to understand the impacts of the plastic upon natural environments and human health.”

Address: Angsana Maison Souvannaphoum , Rue Chao Fa Ngum, Thatluang village, Luang Prabang Phone: (+856) 71 254 609 Fax: (+856) 71 212 577 Email: maison@angsana.com

THE ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CENTER “We have initiated several environmental measures such as using solar energy, treating our wastewater thoroughly, consuming local products only and banning palm oil. We look forward to advancing our commitment and become plastic free with Plastic Free Laos Label” Sale Office: 87/05 Souvannabanlang Road (Mekong Road) Unit 5, Ban Pakham, Luang Prabang, 06000 Phone: (+856) 20 96590665

“We make plastic reduction in hospitality businesses easier!

Get in touch with us at plasticfreelaos@smelaos.com to find out how” For more information about the Plastic Free Laos Label, visit www.smelaos.com or scan this barcocde

SALANA BOUTIQUE “The Salana Boutique Hotel has always been committed to becoming an environmentally friendly hotel. Behind the scenes we work hard to spread the message within the organization from top down.

When the right message is sent to the staff, the path forward becoming a sustainable hotel is easier.”

Address: Chao Anou Rd, 112 Wat Chan Village Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital Phone: (+856) 21 254 254 Email: wecare@salanaboutique.com

COMMA COFFEE “We are an environmentally friendly enterprise.

We believe that protecting the planet is protecting ourselves and that every little change can make an impact. We would love to join hands with everyone to reduce single-use plastics.”

Address: opposite of Chao Fa Ngum Park, Vientiane Phone: (+856) 2058199566 Email: commacoffee@163.com

LE TRIO COFFEE AND COCO&CO “We are proud to be one of the pioneers in this movement. We hope to inspire other cafes to join us and take actions to protect our environment.”

Address: Setthathirath Road, Vientiane Capital Phone: (+856) 30 50 16 046 Email: letriocoffee@gmail.com

Paksong Glory (Black Tea) is made from the rare buds of 1500-year-old tea trees. The leaves create a full golden tea with sweet and smooth flavor. It helps regulate one’s temperature and helps detoxify the body.

It is a rare ancient tea treasure.

150g (5g x 30 packs)

ປາກຊ່ອງຮຸງ່ ເຮືອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນຜະລິດຕະພ�ນທ�

巴松荣（红茶）选取1500年老挝古树茶上独一的

ຂະໜາດນ�ອຍເ��ອທຽບກ�ບຜະລິດຕະພ�ນອ�ນໆ,

小紧密，伴有饱满的金黄色的茶绒茶毫，汤色黄

ຄ�ດສ�ນຍອດຊາຈາກຕ�ນຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 1500 ປີ, ເ��ງມີ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ອຸດມ � ໄ�ດ�ວຍກ�ນຫອມ ແ�ະ ເ�ັນສີທອງ

ປະກາຍ, ນ�າຊາຈະເ�ັນສີທອງດ�ງທອງຄໍາຢູ�ໃ� ຈອກ, ມີລດ � ຊາດ�ານ ແ�ະ ນຸມ � ນວນ. ຊ�ວຍປ�ບອຸນ

ຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ ແ�ະ ຍ�ງຊ�ວຍຂ�ບໄ��ສານພິດ ໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍ, ຮ�ກສາຄວາມສ�ມດຸນຂອງຮ�າງກາຍ

芽头制作而成，外形较其他古树红茶产品更细 金状，杯中挂金边，入口甘爽，柔滑。有助于调节

体温，并促进热量和污物的排泄，维持内的生理 平衡的功效。是难得的古树茶珍品。 150g（5gx30包）

ແ�ະ ເ�ັນຊາທ�ຫາຍາກ.

150g (5gx30ຊອງ)

Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the tips and leaves of one of the ancient 300 year old trees. When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. It can be brewed over 20 times without losing its flavor. This tea is good for enhancing blood circulation, warming the abdomen and stomach, and digestion. It helps those with weak stomachs and spleens.

ທັບທີມແດງປາກຊ່ອງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ��ນໄ��ເ�ືອກ

巴松红（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中一芽二

ທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດິບ, ນ�າຊາເ�ັນ

俗，清澈明亮，可连续冲泡20道以上，香气依旧

ເ�ົາຍອດຊາ 1ຍອດພ�ອມໃ�ຊາ1ໃ�ຂອງຕ�ນຊາ

ສີແ�ງທອງໜ�າປະທ�ບໃ�, ນ�າຊາມີຄວາມໃ�,

ສາມາດຊ� ງ ໄ�� � າຍກ� ວ າ 20 ຄ� ງແ�� ລ� ດ ຊາດ ກ� ຍ� ງ ຄ� ງ ກ� ນຫອມໄ�� , ຊ� ວ ຍເ�� ມການໄ� ວຽນ

ຂອງເ�ື ອ ດໃ�ຮ� າ ງກາຍ, ສ� າ ງຄວາມອ� ບ ອຸ� ນ ,

ບໍາລຸງກະເ�າະ ແ�ະ ຊ�ວຍໃ�ການຍ�ອຍອາຫານ

叶的古树大叶为原料，汤色红橙金黄，艳而不

芳馥，有增强心脏血液循环，生热暖腹、温胃驱 寒、消食开胃的功效，适宜脾胃虚弱、体质偏寒 者长期饮用。

120g（5gx24包）

ເ�າະແ��ຄ�ນທ�ກະເ�າະ, ມ�າມອ�ອນເ�ຍ ແ�ະ ອຸນຫະພູມໃ�ຮ�າງກາຍຕ�າ.

120g (5gx24ຊອງ)

120g (5g x 24 packs)

Paksong Ruby (Black Tea) is made from the diphyllous and triphyllous buds of ancient 300 year old trees.

When brewed, the clear tea has golden tints of red and orange, as well as a rich aroma. The taste is soft, mellow, and uniquely fragrant.

150g (150g x 1 bag)

ທັ ບ ທີ ມ ແດງປາກຊ່ ອ ງ (ຊາແດງ) ແ�� ນ ໄ��

巴松红旅游款（红茶）采自300年老挝古树茶中

ຂອງຍອດຊາທ�ມີອາຍຸ 300 ປີ ມາເ�ັນວ�ດຖ�ດບ ິ ,

汤色红橙金黄，艳而不俗，入口浓强鲜爽，滋味

ເ�ືອກເ�ົາ 1 ຍອດສອງໃ� ແ�ະ 1 ຍອດສາມໃ�

ນ�າຊາເ�ັນສີແ�ງທອງປະກາຍ ແ�ະ ໜ�າປະ ທ�ບໃ�, ມີລດ � ຊາດທ�ສ�ດໄ��ມ, ມີຄວາມນຸມ � ນວນ, ກ�ມກ�ອມ, ມີຄວາມຫອມທ�ເ�ັນເ�ກະລ�ກ.

150g (150gx1ຖົງ)

一芽二叶，一芽三叶的古树大叶为原料，性温， 醇厚顺滑，生津速度快，香气融合度高，适宜体 质偏寒者长期饮用。 150g（150gx1包）

The perfect encounter between primitive and pure

44

STYLE

SOULSCAPES Laos’s emerging art scene provides some soulful additions to your home or office décor.

TEXT BY VANIDA PHIMPHRACHANH & DOMINIQUE LE ROUX PHOTOGRAPHS BY TON PHANUMAD & ALEN CHIT SCENOGRAPHY & STYLING BY BIRDS FOLLOW SPRING

L

aos is a country in transition. So, too, its cultural landscape is moving from a traditional to a more globalized perspective. Who better to portray this than the fresh crop of emerging artists capturing today’s Laos with vintage tools and a contemporary eye? Theirs is a take that moves from mere digital photo accumulation to a considered commentary on the present moment, portrayed in a unique style.

We’re inspired by imagining their work in modern homes around the world. After all, a picture speaks a thousand words: why not take a Lao artist’s print home with you and display it in unexpected ways in your own interior space? Carry the vibes of these contemporary artists to a land far away and add some Lao soul to your home.

TON PHANUMAD While the Insta-feed of this filmmaker at Lao New Wave Cinema reveals a street photographer’s sensibility, here Ton wanted to graphically illustrate his perceptions of the traditional takbat ceremony.

We like the idea of adding his imagery to a window box that references an ancestral altar in the family home or creating a cabinet of curiosities by pairing a print with a collection of memory-evoking objects.

Instagram: phanumad_disattha

45

BAY SOUKPASEUTH “Bay the Moment” is becoming quite an icon in Vientiane, where he has made his name as the go-to wedding photographer for creative and dramatic visuals.

His personal work, with its vintage sensibility, celebrates the use of old film camera techniques, but with a candid, interrogative style that is a dramatic counterpoint to the wedding photographer’s day job.

Instagram: sivilayfilm_laos baysic101 Soukpaseuth_production

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

46

STYLE

ALEN CHIT Owner of a local i.d.-photography studio by day, Alen heads for the darkroom after hours, where he playfully merges old-school methodologies with digital techniques. His portraits and still-lives can be ordered on photo paper developed at Black White Studios in his signature industrial-metallic style.

Instagram: alen_chit Facebook: @blackwhite0036

“OUI” THIPPHAKESONE SAYLATH Under the MaryJane moniker, Oui is making a name for herself in local fashion photography by capturing the pouting Millennial mood of her Lao generation.

Framed prints resting simply on the shelf bring an Oui attitude to influence the ambiance of your decor setting.

Instagram: Maryjaneverysad Facebook: @maryjaneverysad

47

“PUI” MANIILLA CHOUNLAMOUNTRI This professional graphic designer uses the penciled self-portrait as her preferred medium of expression, spreading her wry humor and social commentary via Instagram. The simplicity of wooden floating shelves allows the displayed work to speak for itself.

Instagram: badlydrawn88

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

48

STYLE

JEAN-BAPTISTE AUDENIS Despite a substantial Parisian graphic design track record, this multi-talented creative is best known in Laos for his furniture. From time to time he returns to those graphic roots, whether illustrating in black-and-white with a quiet wit or playing more conceptually with textures and his quintessential sense of design.

Instagram: mrajib

49

VALERIE BAUMAL Inspired by traditional Lao iconography, this artist is best known for her set of restyled, rich-color posters that speak to our retro travel yearnings, but also enhance a modern child’s bedroom décor.

Instagram: vintage_poster_tm www.vintagepostertm.com

All work can be ordered directly from the artists.

View the works of these photographers and others at the Semaine de la Photographie exhibition at the Institut Français in Vientiane in February. (See facebook.com/institutfrancais. pageofficielle/ for more)

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

50

GETAWAY

LAO LAKE HOUSE

A weekend getaway is closer than you think.

TEXT BY CAMERON DARKE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

GETTING THERE Take 13N road towards Vang Vieng. At the 30km mark, turn left towards Namhoum Reservoir.

Pass the new China Rail Station, go through Angnamhoum Village and take first dirt road left after the dam wall.

A

n afternoon dip in clear waters.

Evenings by the campfire toasting marshmallows. Stargazing from the canopy of a fantastic treehouse. Waking up to a bright sunrise reflected over a vast lake. Nostalgic yet?

Just an hour’s drive from Vientiane, the Lao Lake House is a sanctuary set among the picturesque blue waters of the Nam Houm Reservoir. Though not so far from town, the estate is located down a winding dirt track, with nothing but water and farmland on either side.

This untouched and pristine setting captured the hearts of Australian couple Sandra Pike and Charlie Nicholls several years ago.

So much so, in fact, that the retirees moved to Laos with the aim of spending their days peacefully by the lake – but some people just can’t sit still.

“We first lived in the original house that was at the site when we took over.

Then we built a home of our own,” says Sandra. “And then instead of tearing the old house down, we thought, hey, people could stay here!”

Their rambling stilted house sits perched on the edge of the Nam Houm Lake as if a stately old Queenslander from Northern Australia was somehow plonked in the middle of Laos. Just next-door is the accommodation, six spacious rooms that sleep up to thirteen guests, including a family suite with connecting doors and a shared bathroom.

51

1

“BY DAY, GUESTS CAN RELAX IN A HAMMOCK OR TAKE A WALK AROUND THE LOCAL AREA. THEY CAN DIP IN THE POOL OR THE LAKE ITSELF. AT NIGHT THE STARS SHINE IN THE SKY LIKE PAINT ON A BLACK CANVAS”

All the rooms overlook the central swimming pool amid the lakeside setting, surrounded by tall palm trees and lush greenery. Well-placed hammocks make for cozy reading spots, while a fairytale treehouse built right into a big old tree provides a breathtaking view (and is a huge hit with kids).

Sandra makes it quite clear that the Lake House isn’t a hotel, and it’s not a guesthouse. It’s not even really a resort. Instead, she prefers to call it a self-contained homestay where service arrangements are flexible. The number of beds in the rooms can be adjusted to cater for larger groups, and kitchen utensils are provided for guests to prepare their own food.

“By day, guests can relax in a hammock or take a walk around the local area. They can dip in the pool or the lake itself. At night the stars shine in the sky like paint on a black canvas,” says Sandra, clearly still enamored herself.

The Lao Lake House is open year-round, making it an ideal place for a romantic weekend, a family getaway, or a company retreat. Dogs are always welcome to accompany guests, and early reservations are encouraged.

2

3

left: Aerial view of the Lao Lake House 1. Fairytale treehouse 2. Lake House Porch 3. Inside the main house 4. Poolside view

4 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

52

NIGHTLIFE

A

BEAUTIFUL

NIGHT

AT

BELLE J The perfect ingredients for a great night out.

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / BELLE J

T

he perfect evening requires the perfect space. Whether an evening after work or a weekend out with friends, Belle J is the right space for your perfect evening.

Downstairs, Belle J offers all-day dining of a delicious Western, Asian, and fusion cuisine that is also easy on your wallet.

“We use the freshest ingredients, but want to offer value for money in addition to quality,” says Jay, the General Manager.

The setting is modern, yet cozy, and a nice

MORE INFO Belle J’s upstairs lounge is located on Souphanouvong Road in Vientiane’s Khounta Tha Village and opens from 7 pm until late.

For more info visit facebook.com/ bellejvientiane

setting for a lunch with colleagues, a meeting over coffee, or even relaxing with a book and a pastry.

In the evening, the action moves upstairs to Belle J’s lounge – designed like no other venue in Laos with its ultra-modern décor. A large white horse stands guard in the center of the room, marking your entrance into a fantasy world. Food is available upstairs as well, so perfect for evening snacks with drinks, or even a meal.

But the highlight of the experience here has to be the cocktails. The bartender is one of the most creative in Vientiane. Each cocktail is an art piece and surprises with its unique mix of flavors that both wonder and delight. The ingredients are chosen for their quality, and many of the alcohols are imported, as the bartender wants clients to enjoy the finer things. He understands his clientele and can offer suggestions for those who may not be familiar with cocktails.

53

1

“WE USE THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS, BUT WANT TO OFFER VALUE FOR MONEY IN ADDITION TO QUALITY”

He makes it easy to select a drink that will suit you perfectly.

To help round out the mood, the youthful Acoustica Band plays nightly at Belle J. The breadth of their acoustic repertoire spans even western music from the past 30–40 years. Masters of keeping the mood chill; they keep the volume to a level that allows you to chit chat the night away with friends.

After their set is up, the house DJ gets to work spinning tracks and keeping the atmosphere pumping. Playing the latest hip-hop tracks and remixes of pop music infused with groovy House beats; he manages to keep the feeling enervated throughout the night as you chat and dance the night away.

A night out at Belle J is like no other in Vientiane. It is the precise intersection of fun, style, and eclectic ambiance – perfect!

2

left: The beautiful ambiance of Belle J 1. One of the bartender's artisanal cocktails 2. A delicious laap 3. A relaxing place to chill out with friends

3 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

54

NIGHTLIFE

在 BELLE J

的美妙夜晚

完美食材，美好夜晚。

大白马雕塑在房间中央守卫，开启进入魔幻世界的大门。 二楼也提供食物，所以非常适合晚上喝点小酒吃点小时，

翻译 尹航

甚至晚餐也是不错的选择。

图片来源 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / BELLE J

更多信息

Belle J的二层酒廊位 于万象Khounta Tha

村，Souphanouvong路，

营业时间为晚上7点至深夜。

facebook.com/bellejvientiane

完

但是，在这里必点的是鸡尾酒。调酒师是万象最具

创意的人之一。每个鸡尾酒都是一件艺术品，其独特的混 合风味令人惊喜。原料的选择基于质量，许多酒都是进口

美的夜晚需要完美的空间。无论是下班后

休闲夜晚还是与周末与朋友小聚。Belle

J 都 是 您 度 过 完 美 夜 晚 的 理 想 之 选 。一 层，Belle

J餐厅全天供应美味的西式，亚

洲和东西方融合美食，价格也很实惠。

总经理Jay说： “我们使用最新鲜的食材，但除了高品

质外，还希望达到合适的性价比。”这里的设计既现代又

舒适，与同事共进午餐，喝咖啡开会，甚至吃着甜点看看 书都可以。

到了晚上，重点将移至Belle J二层的酒吧，其装饰风

格与老挝其他任何地方都不一样，设计很有现代感。一匹

的，因为调酒师希望客户品尝到高质量的饮品。他了解自

己的客户，并可以为对鸡尾酒不是很熟悉的客户推荐饮 品。让您选择适合自己的饮品变得轻而易举。

为了增加氛围，年轻的Acoustica乐队每晚在Belle

J演出。他们的曲目范围很广，基本涵盖了过去30-40年的 西方音乐。表演者们调动这大家的情绪，但音乐并不吵 闹，您可以与朋友通宵聊天。

乐队铺垫之后，DJ开始控场，整个酒吧的氛围高涨。

最新的嘻哈曲目和流行音乐，混House节拍；您可以整夜 聊天跳舞。

在Belle J上度过的夜晚是整个万象独有的。这是乐

趣，风格和氛围的结合‒完美！

1

2

“我们使用最新鲜的食材， 但除了高品质外，

” 还希望达到合适的性价比。

3

左：Belle J 酒廊

1. 乐队在表演 2. 一杯创意鸡尾酒 3. 美味的汉堡 4. Belle J 酒吧的轻松氛围

4 JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

A MAGICAL RETREAT FROM THE MODERN WORLD TEXT BY ROSEMARY MURPHY & BOUNPONE VANNAPHONE PHOTOGRAPHS BY SWISSCONTACT

57

W

ater buffalo wallow in the mud while farmers harvest sticky rice by hand, the way they have for hundreds of years. Roadside stands are laden with fresh coconuts and watermelons. Towering palms and sprawling rain trees line the Mekong River; its surface dotted with long, colorful, wooden boats. Before we’ve even reached what was once the seat of the Kingdom of Champasak my body relaxes, absorbing the super-saturated hues of the countryside.

Entering Champasak town, I eye the guesthouses and restaurants, their shady, riverside decks lush with green foliage. We set out from Wat Luang Kao, a vibrantly beautiful temple, to follow a shady dirt trail that winds its way along the river bank through a few of the 9 villages that make up Champasak today. It’s hidden from the main road and feels worlds away from modern life. Among the traditional wooden houses on stilts, we catch intimate glimpses of locals’ daily lives – a man washing his hair at an outdoor sink, a family picnicking in a bamboo grove, a man mending fishing nets. A couple on a scooter whiz by with a large Mekong river fish swinging behind them. A line is hung with strips of buffalo skin to make Laostyle jerky. Two women are splitting bamboo, and an old woman deftly weaves the strips into a basket for sticky rice. In a clearing, large translucent discs of hand-made rice noodles dry on bamboo screens in the midday sun.

We explore Wat Meuang Kang, the oldest active temple in Champasak, built in the 19th century and fusing several architectural styles, and then stop in at a nearby house to experience Lao cooking. I’m handed an apron and ushered into a traditional Lao kitchen.

Our host Mik is warm and friendly and puts me to work with a large wooden mortar and pestle. I pound fiery red chilies, garlic, and tomatoes into a paste. We add strips of green papaya, fresh lime, and dark and funky fermented fish sauce, padaek, for a papaya salad. Little round eggplants, roasted until meltingly soft, are pounded with sesame seeds and dried chilies to create a baba ganoush-like dish, topped with cilantro and green onions from Mik’s kitchen garden.

I’m full but buoyed by the morning’s experiences, and I notice even the air here feels charged with a different energy. I’m not surprised that this plain between the Mekong and the mountains has been considered sacred for well over a thousand years. You can cycle along the Ancient Khmer road, originally linking India to Cambodia, and find the earthen walls of an ancient city. Dating back to the 5th century, it is believed to be the oldest urban settlement in

Wat Phou temple at sunrise Photo: Somleth Phosalath

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

58

SOUTHERN LAOS

1 GETTING THERE Lao Airlines flies regularly to Pakse from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Bangkok, and Siem Reap.

Champasak town is 40km south of Pakse.

1. Soulivanh sculpts a Khmer figurine 2. Wat Phou 3. A cheerful villager weaves bamboo 4. A colorful Naga staircase 5. Mr. Tiger guides a guest in Champasak

2

Photo: Bart Verweij

Southeast Asia. And then there is the undeniable magic of a golden hour visit to Wat Phou.

Soulivanh Phounthareungsy fell in love with the carvings of fantastical deities adorning the temple’s tilted lintels. He taught himself to sculpt and fire clay so that he might recreate them in his Champasak Pottery studio. He is probably the only sculptor currently working in this style in Laos. His enthusiasm for Champasak, its culture, its people, and their way of life, is contagious. Before we head for dinner, we pop out back to see the large, handmade earthen kiln. Behind it rice fields and Phou Kao mountain where the sun is setting over Wat Phou. “It’s always been a special place,” he says.

In the evening, Champasak is even more enchanting. The warm glow of woven lanterns illuminate tureens of Mekong fish soup perfumed with lemongrass, spicy laap, and baskets of sticky rice. The magic that compelled people to settle here a thousand years ago appears to be alive and well today.

59

EXPERIENCE CHAMPASAK Book a guide for one of Wat Phou and Champasak’s Heritage and Archaeology Trails: Mr. Bouasone Phommaboud, Champasak Tourism Information Centre +856 (0)30 09 23 96 73 Mr. Soubanh Kanhaphanh, Vat Phou Museum +856 (0)20 55 76 92 21 information@vatphou-champassak.com vatphou-champassak.com Book a walking tour of Champasak Village Life with Mr. Tiger: thanaphone@laogo-carrental.com

3

BOUN WAT PHOU Wat Phou festival, one of the largest festivals in Laos, attracts thousands of people each year for 3 days and nights of celebration including prayer ceremonies, almsgiving, and traditional games, music, and dancing. This year the festival will be held on Feb 07–09.

See more at vatphou-champassak.com

逃离现代世界奇妙旅程 翻译 : 尹航 图片来源：SWISSCONTACT / BART VERWEIJ

进入占巴塞镇，沿河可见一些旅馆和餐馆。我们从充满活力的美丽

寺庙Wat Langang Kao出发，沿着一条沿河的泥泞小路穿过今天

组成占巴色省的9个村庄的几个。它们不在主干道上，远离现代生 活。在传统的高跷木屋中，我们可以窥见当地人的日常生活-一个男

人在室外的水槽里洗头，一家人在竹林里野餐，一个男人在修补渔

网。一对情侣在躺着秋千，身后挂着一张大大的捕鱼网。一条线上 悬挂着水牛皮条用来制作老式肉干。两个女人正在劈竹子，一个老

妇人灵巧的编制着承装糯米饭的竹篮。正午，在一片空旷的区域， 手工制作的半透明米粉片儿正在竹帘上晾晒。

我们将探索建于19世纪，融合多种建筑风格的占巴塞最古老的庙 宇Wat

Meuang

Kang，然后在附近的居民处体验老挝的烹饪。

我穿上围裙，走进传统的老挝厨房。接待我们的主人Mik热情友 好，她递给我们一个大大的木质研钵和杵。我将红辣椒，大蒜和

西红柿扔进研钵内，捣成糊状。再加入青木瓜，新鲜柠檬汁和鱼露

（padaek），青木瓜沙拉就只制作好了。圆形的小茄子烤至变软， 然后用芝麻籽和干辣椒捣碎，制成蘸酱，上面撒上Mik自家花园里

4

种植的香菜和葱。

我吃的很饱，而这个清晨让我神清气爽，甚至觉得这里的空气也充

满了不同的能量。湄公河和高山之间的这块平原被一千多年来都 被视为神圣的之地，这点我并不感到惊讶。您可以沿着古老的高棉

道路骑行，该道路最初将印度与柬埔寨连接起来，并最终抵达一座

古老城市的土墙。它可以追溯到5世纪，被认为是东南亚最古老的 城市居住区。然后，不可否认的是，参观Vat Phou庙的一个小时印 象深刻。

到了晚上，占巴塞更加迷人。灯笼的柔光撒进桌上的柠檬草湄公河

5

鱼汤，辛辣Larb和糯米饭的篮子里。一千年前吸引人们来此定居的 魔力似乎还在，并且今天看起来更有魅力了。

到达： 老挝航空定期从万象，琅勃拉邦，曼谷和暹粒出发飞往巴色。 占巴塞镇 位于巴色以南40公里处。

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

60

CLOSE-UP

BEASTS

OF

BURDEN AND

Dairy Buffalo ice cream and cheese are new highlights in Luang Prabang.

TEXT BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / LAOS BUFFALO DAIRY

M

ooching buffalo, sunk hoofdeep in a bright green paddy field, are an iconic image of Laos. We all photograph these plodding creatures when we see them on our travels, but a close encounter is rare.

A revolutionary buffalo farm, outside of Luang Prabang, lets you get up close and personal and I found it weirdly interesting to come face to face with Bubalis bubalis and her kin.

Laos Buffalo Dairy, found on the way to Kouang Si Falls, offers everything from a half-day immersion, down to just licking lemongrass buffalo ice cream at a roadside stall.

I signed up for a half-day experience and came away with a degree after a masterclass in buffalo care and breeding, cooking class, and chance to round up buffalo with a village chief.

GETTING THERE Laos Buffalo Dairy is located about 22 km southwest of Luang Prabang on the road to Kouang Si Falls.

MORE INFO The farm offers three tour options: The exclusive Farm & Production Facility Tour plus Cooking Class, Guided Mini-Farm Tour with Dessert Package, and the Mini Farm Tour laosbuffalodairy.com

Over a lunch of crunchy greens and a smorgasbord of buffalo cheeses, I got the low down on water buffalo and the project from Susie Martin, co-founder of the dairy. Susie, and husband Steve McWhirter, first came to Laos on holiday and were baffled by news that buffalo were only used for meat and farming. Where were the milking stations, they asked? The Australian couple sold their home and moved to rugged northern Laos with their family in tow. Susie’s previous career, as a corporate executive in Singapore, means all those organizational skills have now been channeled into farming: the place is run like a well-oiled machine, and I could have licked the floor of the uber-sparkling kitchen.

My head buzzed with farm facts: females are rented from farmers when they are 8 months pregnant (gestation is 10 months) for US$100, vaccinated, and quarantined for one month. When one has her calf, she is milked for about six months.

Inbreeding, due to a lack of males (exported to China for meat), has weakened Lao stock. Susie located two male Murrah buffalo donated by the Chinese government to Laos who were put into action, so to speak, to boost genes and produce cross-breeds who yield more milk: a cross-bred buffalo will produce 25 %–50 % more milk than its single-origin mum. Once the milking has finished and the female is pregnant again she and her calf

61

are returned to the farmer. Coming back to the farm again when they are 8 months pregnant and the circle continues.

Costa Rican farm consultant Monica Montero collects me from the café and takes me to a yard where I attempt to milk Oulai. I don’t quite get the knack of the yank and pummel motion and I manage just a few squirts into the bucket. I was sure the buffalo gave me a withering look. Monica then introduces me to Chinese donation bull number one, Ferdinand, a great big beast who appears to hobble. Ferdinand, it turns out, fell during a sexual liaison, dislocated his hip, developed an abscess and is assigned medical retirement, leaving companion Fabio’s sexual performance at the forefront.

Ferdinand is hanging with child star Sophia, the first cross-breed baby, now just over a year old; and she is dallying with pregnant companion Lola. I wash them down with a hose. Buffalos make a strange sound – it’s a digital-sounding stream, a cross between a pig and a cow, somehow. I then cozy up with Lola, an Instagram star.

Buffalos look cute but when it’s cheek to cheek contact, the horn, wet nose, and whiskers are a little overwhelming.

When playtime was over, for me at least, I was put to work in the kitchen. American chef, and dairy co-founder, Rachel O’Shea is in charge of the café, ice cream, and cheese.

While my eye was drawn to fragrant ricotta donuts, Rachel charges me with mozzarella making. Like many folks, I imagine, I’ve eaten a lot of this fine cheese over the

1

left: A buffalo gazes into the distance 1. A mother and her calf 2. A plate of buffalo mozzarella, blue cheese, ricotta and feta 3. The founders of the Laos Buffalo Dairy

2

3

years but hadn’t given much thought to how it’s made. How to get huge dollops of gloopy white cheese into something approximating a smooth sphere? I had no idea that it takes some work to get a classic-looking mozzarella ball. Well, one that would be acceptable on a restaurant plate.

The knack is to keep kneading the cheese back into itself. Rachel considered my snow-white balls – with a few off-circle angles – pretty good for a first-timer. I was keen, too, to taste the ice cream – black sesame, and lemongrass – but there was more work to do before dessert.

I donned a special jumpsuit and toured the milking pen and maternity area where mums and babies were all settling down into late afternoon slumber and was asked to feed months’ old Mick who looked up at me with gooey young animal eyes.

Still no sign of ice cream, I went off to the fields on a tractor just before sunset for one of the highlights of my tour. Village chief Mr. Somlit was trying to round up his buffalos. Half of his eightstrong herd are at the farm, and I learn that Sophia is his. He’s very happy with the rental program, he says and wants to rent out two or three more.

The buffalos are reluctant to budge. Sinking into a mud pond, they use their tails to slosh water over their heads and backs and emit deep sighs as they look for space to submerge among their fellow beasts. Somlit tries to lasso them out of the pond; they evade him, ignoring his pleas. Then suddenly he makes a buffalo sound, and cries ‘go’ in Lao to the muddy cluster and they obediently get up, knowing rice straw is for dinner at the home yard. When I get back to HQ, I’m happy to report scoops of creamy vanilla and caramel ice cream were waiting for me.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

62

CLOSE-UP

1

2

3

64

WINE & DINE

A

MILLION DOLLAR VIEW

The ideal location at the confluence of hospitality and charm.

TEXT BY JASON ROLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / VIEWPOINT RESTAURANT AND CAFE

S

itting on the terrace of the Viewpoint Restaurant and Café, gazing at local boats silently skimming across the confluence of the Mekong and Khan Rivers, you would almost forget that you are in a city. This restaurant, a part of Mekong Riverview Hotel, is a testament of love for the UNESCO World Heritage town and a welcoming retreat for

guests. Its outstanding location is totally unique and makes it the sort of place you could come for a meal and end up staying all day!

This charming alfresco restaurant boasts an incredible panoramic view. The waiters are well-trained and offer helpful assistance for those new to the delights of Lao cuisine. The crispy Fried Riverweed served with traditional spicy dipping sauce and the fragrant Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves are favorites. They also offer other delicious Asian food and French Chef Jean-Baptiste Legrand has even created a new selection of international cuisine. It is truly a relaxing spot to enjoy the view of the rivers and watch local life crossing back and forth on the local bamboo bridge. In the evenings,

65

the area is lit up offering an even more romantic atmosphere to this charming and quiet spot.

The restaurant is flanked by a public park that was disused land until the owner recognized the beauty here and offered to renovate it for the city. Now it is visited by hundreds of people per day who come to admire the view and natural landscape.

It perches above the boat landing, where the hotel’s own boat is moored. Guests can even take this boat out for romantic cruises, along with some wine and canapes to enjoy the Mekong during the golden hours of sunset.

One recent addition to the restaurant’s family is a spa, swimming pool, and badminton court, located across the Khan River in a beautiful garden. Guests can take the hotel’s boat across the river and a short walk up some steps to a waiting electric buggy to ferry the rest of the way. Here, they can enjoy lounging by the turquoise pool in between relaxing spa treatments.

The traditional Lao massage is highly recommended. In this treatment, the massage therapist gently kneads out tension from all over your body. There are also massage pavilions near the pool, so you can enjoy the outdoors as you destress.

With a variety of food available, magnificent views, and an ideal location, no visit to Luang Prabang can be complete without a relaxing meal at Viewpoint Restaurant and Café.

1 2

left: Stunning view of the confluence of two rivers 1. Mekong Riverview Hotel 2. A therapist giving an oil massage 3. Herbal treatments 4. The inviting pool at the spa

3

MORE INFO Viewpoint Restaurant and Café is located in Xiengthong Village in Luang Prabang.

For more info, visit mekongriverview.com GETTING THERE Lao Airlines has daily flights to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Bangkok, Siem Reap, Hanoi, and Chiang Mai.

4

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020

66

WINE & DINE

ビューポイント レストラン&カフェ

おもてなしと魅力が融合した理想的な場所。 翻訳者 PHOTTHAPHONE

ビ

写真提供 PHOONSAB THEVONGSA / VIEWPOINT RESTAURANT

AND CAFE

ューポイント レストラン＆カフェのテラスに

詳細情報

ビューポイント レストラン＆

ると、 市内にいることをすっかり忘れてしまう。

トーン村にあります。詳細につい

メコンリバービューホテルの一部にあるこのレストランは、 ユネスコ世界遺産に登録された町への愛の証であり、 ゲスト

を迎える隠れ家レストランです。 その抜群のロケーションは

間違いなく格別であり、食事に来ただけなのに、ついつい 一日中居座ってしまうような場所になっています！

この魅力的な屋外レストランでは、素晴らしいパノラマ

の景色を眺 めることができます。ウェイターは十分な

トレーニングを受けており、 ラオス料理初心者にもアドバイ スをしてくれます。伝統的な辛みそとセットの川のりや、バナ

ナの葉に包まれた香ばしい蒸し魚が人気メニューです。 そ

のほかにも、美味しいアジア料理がそろっており、 フランス 人シェフのジャン・バプティスト・ルグランは、国際色豊かな

リラックスしていきます。夕方には店内がライトアップされ、魅力的で

静かなレストランには、 さらにロマンチックな雰囲気がもたらされます。 このレストランは、オーナーがその美しさをみつけだし、町のた

めに改修することを決めるまでは、公園に挟まれたただの空き地

座り、 メコン河とカーン川の合流点を静か に通り抜ける地元のボートを見つめてい

料理の新しいセレクションを生み出しています。川の景色を楽しみ、

ローカルな竹橋を渡る地元住民の生活を垣間見、気持ちがどんどん

カフェは、 ルアンパバーンのシェン

ては、mekongriverview.comを

ご覧ください。 行き方

ラオス航空は、 ビエンチャン、

パクセ、 バンコク、 シェムリアップ、

ハノイ、 チェンマイからルアン

パバーンへの直行便を毎日運航

しています。

でした。 今では、 景色や自然の景観を賞賛するために毎日何百人もの

人々が訪れています。 レストランは、ホテル所有のボートが係留して いる船着き場の上に設置されています。夕方、 メコン河の夕日を眺

めながら、 ワインやカナッペを片手にロマンチックなボートクルージング

も可能です。

最近、新しくできたのは、 カーン川の対岸に作られた美しい庭

園内にあるスパ、 スイミングプール、バドミントンコートです。宿泊客は

ホテルのボートで川を渡り、対岸にある電気のバギーまで歩いて、 後は施設まで乗るだけ。 ここでは、癒しのスパトリートメントを受けた

り、 ターコイズブルーのプールでのんびりと楽しむことができます。 是非、伝統的なラオスマッサージを体験してみてください。 このマッサ

ージでは、セラピストが全身の緊張を優しくほぐしてくれます。 プール

の近くにもマッサージ用の離れがあり、 ストレス解消しながらアウトドア の雰囲気を楽しむこともできます。

バラエティー豊かな料理、壮大な景色、素敵な場所を一度に楽し

めるビューポイント レストラン＆カフェへ出向いて、ルアンパバーン旅

行を完璧なものにしてください。

左: 魅力的なスパの

プール

1. 上から見たスパと

プール

2. フレンドリーなスパ

のセラピスト

3. ビューポイントカフェ

での楽しいランチ

1 2

3

Artisan Designer

18k Gold Jewelry

Vientiane, Lao PDR

Available @ Flagship Store (Behind WatOngTeu-VTE) @ Settha Palace (VTE) @ Toineinbangkok (SO Sofitel BKK) @ Café Mademoiselle (Alliance Française-BKK)

Photo © Mary Jane

Flagship store in Vientiane

Same day delivery in the city ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າອອນລາຍ

Delivery of online products

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ສິນຄ້າທົ່ວໄປ Delivery of goods

ຮັບ-ສົ່ງ ຜູ້ໂດຍສານ (Taxi) Taxi service

ເກັບເງິນປາຍທາງ ແລ້ວໂອນພ້ອມ COD and funds transfer service

ບໍລິການ ສົ່ງບັດເຊີນຕ່າງໆ Invitation delivery service

Phontong Chommany Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR

020 9899-9542 020 5587-8985

Lao Airlines Updates

LAO AIRLINES NEWS | TIMETABLES | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES

70

WINTER TIMETABLE 2019

71

>

SAVANNAKHET

LUANGPRABANG

74

FLIGHT ROUTES

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

DOMESTIC AT7 0 ROUTES

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE FLIGHT ROUTES

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

LAO AIRLINES OFFICES

INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

DOMESTIC OFFICES

Bangkok

Vientiane (VTE)

Town Office 491/17 ground Fl, Silom Plaza, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel: (66-2) 236 9822 / (66-2) 236 9823 / (66-2) 237 8044 Fax: (66-2) 236 9821 Email: bkkrrqv@ksc.th.com Suvarnabhumi Airport 2nd Floor of AOB building, Room No. Z010 Tel: (66-2) 134 2006 to 2008 Fax: (66-2) 134 2009

Chiangmai

2/107 Ratchaphruek, Huaykaew Road, Amphoe Muang, Chiangmai 50300, Thailand Tel: (66-53) 223 401, Fax: (66-53) 223 400 Email: qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th

Hanoi

03 Lieu Giai Str, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: (84-4) 394 25362, Fax: (84-4) 394 25363 Email: laoairlines.han@fpt.vn / qvhan@laoairlines.com

Hochiminh

11A Song Da, Dist Tan Binh, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84) 912 070 045 Email: qvsgn@laoairlines.com

Ticketing and Reservation Office Tel: (856-21) 212051-54 or 1626 Email: vtersqv@laoairlines.com / vtessqv@laoairlines.com onlinebooking@laoairlines.com Airport Offices Tel: (856-21) 513032

Luang Prabang (LPQ)

Town Office Tel: (856-71) 212172, Fax: (856-71) 212406 Email: lpqssqv@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-71) 212173, Fax: (856-71) 252264 Email: lpa@laoairlines.com

Xiengkhouang (XKH)

Town Office Tel: (856-61) 312027, Fax: (856-61) 312487 Email: xkh@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-61) 312177

Luang Namtha (LXG)

Phnompenh

58 B Sihanouk Avenue, Phnompenh, Cambodia Tel: (855-23) 222956 / (855-23) 216 563, Fax: (855-23) 216 563 Email: laoairlines.qvpnh@online.com.kh

Town Office Luangnamtha rd., Nongbouavieng Village, Luangnamtha Province Tel: (856-86) 212072 / 212186, Fax: (856-86) 212073 Email: lxg@laoairlines.com Airport Office Tel: (856-86) 312180, 312053

Siem Reap

Oudomsay (ODY)

N.C10,C12, Angkor Shopping Acade National Road 6, Kruos Village, Svay Dangkum Commune, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia Tel: (855-63) 963169, Fax: (855-63) 963 283 | Skype ID: helpdesk_qvrep Email: qvreptkt@laoairlines.com

Kunming

No52 East Dong Feng Road, Kunming Yunnan, China Tel: (86-871) 63125748 / (86)-13987182913 Email: Kunming@laoairlines.com

Guangzhou

Room 1208,12 floor, Main tower, Guangdong International Building, 339 Huanshi Dong Road, Guangzhou, China P.C: 510098 Tel: (8620) 838 840 85, Fax: (8620) 838 840 95 Email: canqv@laoairlines.com

Jing Hong

Ground Floor King Land Hotel, 6 Jing De Road, Jing Hong Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China Tel: (86-692) 12199515 / (0086) 13988136962 Fax: (86-692) 12199515 Email: qvjhg@laoairlines.com

Seoul

Gwang Hwa Mun Centre Point Building 5F31SaeMunAn-Ro 5-gil (Doryum-dong 65) Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: (82-2) 6262-0808,0809,0810 / (82-2) 6262-0800,0811,0822 / (82-2) 6262-0819 Fax: (82-2) 6262-0844 Email: ticketing.sel@laoairlines.com

Tel: (856-81) 312047, 312146, Fax: (856-81) 212229 Email: ody@laoairlines.com

Savannakhet (ZVK)

Dongdamdouan Village, Khaysonephomvihane District, Savannakhet Province Tel: (856-41) 212140, 252198, Fax: (856-41) 251060 Email: zvk@laoairlines.com

Pakse (PKZ)

11 Road, Phatthana Lakmueng Village, Pakse District, Champasak Province Tel: (856-31) 212252, Fax: (856-31) 212751 Email: pkz@laoairlines.com

75

CONTACT INFORMATION Domestic Office

DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL AIR CARGO SERVICE

· Luangprabang, Cargo Office

071 254158

· Pakse, Cargo Office

031 251410

· Savannakhet, Cargo Office

041 212140

· Luangnumtha, Cargo Office

086 312053

· Oudomxay , Cargo Office

081 212739

· Xiengkhouang, Cargo Office

061 312177

International Branch Thailand P. T. Air Cargo Tel: +6621849600 E-mail: ptabkk@ptacargo.com Vietnam Indo-Trans Logistic Corporation

·

Office hours Monday - Sunday

·

8:00 –17:00 (Out-Bound)

·

8:00 –20:00 (Delivery)

TEL: +84 24 3850 1336,+848948 6888 E-mail: cindy.hang@itlavs.com China Hongda, Guangzhou Tel: +86 20 86273652 E-mail: gzzhhd@vip.163.com On Time Express, Guangzhou

Wattay International Airport

Tel: +86 20 87320492

Lao Airlines

E-mail: stephen.mak@chq.ontime-express.com

Cargo Department

Yunnan Jet International logistic, Kunming

TEL:

Tel: +86 871-6146655/2211 Email: janetliu@jetget.com.cn

+85621 513 250 +85621 512 010 E-Mail: cargo@laoairlines.com vteffqv@laoairlines.com Facebook : CARGO Lao airlines

Korea Anam Air Service, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82-2-757-9181 E-mail: jrseo@wbas.co.kr

Lao Airlines

HOT LINE

80

LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WIN INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

-

12:30

QV811

07:40

-

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

09:25

09:45

1

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

0

ໂຮຈີມິນ -

11:20

QV515

AT7

0

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

A320

DAY

D

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

1

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

14

Transit (VTE) Arr

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

0

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

AT7

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

S.

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

11

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

12

ສຽມຣຽບ

Daily

13:00

-

14:00

QV513

AT7

0

Daily

14

T Th

08:55

-

09:55

QV511

AT7

0

T Th

10

ບາງກອກ

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

08:25

-

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

10:55

QV223

AT7

1

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

1

Transit (PKZ) Arr

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

S.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

D

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

Daily

09:10

-

10:00

QV111

AT7

0

M T Th S

07

Daily

11:30

-

12:15

QV101

A320

0

W F Su

07

T W Th S Su 13:00

-

13:45

QV105

A320

0

Daily

13

T W Th S Su

14

M T Th S

17:00

-

17:45

QV103

A320

0

M W F Su

18

W F Su

17:00

-

17:45

QV536

A320

0

T Th S

18

> LUANGNAMTHA

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

ຍງ່ິບນ ິ ຫາຼຍ, ຍງ່ິມສ ີ ດ ິ ທພ ິ ເິສດຫາຼຍ

*:

*

6

*

Official Lao Airlines Inflight Magazine

JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2020