Conflict
Nostalgia
Gender Equality
Creative Direction // Fashion on a Ration - Imperial War Museum // Ginfranco Reni // Oleksiy Zalevskiy aw14 // Tower Of London Poppies
Creative Direction // Cereal Killer Cafe // Molly Goddard AW15 Presentation
Creative Direction // Raf Simons Gender Fuse // Tiffany&CO // Sibling AW15
Menswear AW15 // Christopher Raeburn // Lanvin // Balenciaga // Public School VM // // //
& Instore Urban Outfitters ALL SAINTS Bergner Schmidt
Print # Handicraft & patchwork // Jonathon Saunders
Menswear AW15 // Agi & Sam // Sibling // Pyer Moss // Gucci // PLAC VM & Instore // Vintage Stores COW, Vintage to s T, WILD Clothing // Seek - Kavat // Premuim - Wool & CO Print // 70’S Geometric JW Anderson, Jasper Conron, Minnan Hui // Art - Bridget Riley
Menswear AW15 // Saint Laurent // Gucci // Sibling // 69 Worldwide // Rick Owens // JW Anderson VM & Instore // Selfridges AGENDER // Uniqulo Print // Acne AW!% // Raf Simons AW15 // Loubiton
Creative Direction - Time-warp Nostalgia is not just seen as a trend, but can also be an experience. We noticed that society today want to re-live prime moments of their childhood and past. Novelty cafes, restaurants and stores have been opening all over the world to give consumers that exact ‘time-warp’ experience. We looked into the popularity of Cereal killer cafe opening in brick lane, London and Molly Goddards recent AW15 presentation at London Fashion Week. Both brought a large amount of publicity and talk along media and word and mouth, due to the experiences they give of reliving your most loved childhood moments.
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Print & Graphics - The Geometric With 70’s Hippy trend arising, print has also been hit. Geometric shapes bringing us back to the time of 1970 interior designs. Seen on the catwalk of Minnan Hui, JW Anderson and Jasper Conran, the print has flown through womans wear and menswear, additionally holding heavy inspiration of artist Bridget Riley.
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Instore & VM - Take Me Back / Organic While exploring Berlin & Nottingham, two very contrasting cities, we noticed brands and stores are holding some influences of Nostalgia, either through experience or visually. Vintage clothing stores have been increasing throughout the years, keeping up with the vintagestyle sub culture. More and more shops bring you the experience of walking into 1960’s with furniture, music, manniquins, employees and overall environment. Additionally, alongside the menswear 1970 trend, some brands have been using organic props such as flowers and woodland to Visual Merchandise. This brings us back to the love of ‘Green’ by the classic 1970’s hippy.
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Menswear - 70’s Rivial / TOYS The Nostaglic trend has been an internet sensation on range of blogging sites and platforms such as Tumblr. With everyone jumping on to the 90’s trend such as crop tops, bindi’s and chokers, it seems the street style has finally trickled up to the luxury and high end market. Menswear AW15 has seen 70’s Hippy strike back with shearling fabrics, flares, checks and pipe shirts. Not only that, the reliving the childhood favourite such as LEGO has also made an appearance onto the catwalk in forms of accessories and street style.
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Creative Direction - Gender Equality Gender Equality is something that isn’t just a trend but is also something that affects sub cultures daily. Noticing that in today’s society that there aren’t equal rights for all has been challenged within AW15 with brands such as Vejas using transgender models within their show and Raf Simons creating his Gender Fuse line showing a blur between his female and male models. Whereas Tiffany are proudly advertising equal rights with a campaign based at same sex couples with their new range of gender neutral engagement and wedding rings.
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Print & Graphics - Feminist Men’s florals are nothing new in modern society and neither are slogans but something that is a lot different is the way in which Acne Studios have decided to use feminist Slogans with their Menswear AW15 by printing phrases such as ‘woman power’ and ‘radical feminist’ showing how society is desensitised to the idea of women having equal rights and that it is something so normal that you can wear it around your neck.
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Instore & VM - AGENDER Whilst looking into the theme of gender around visual merchandising and in store work we came across the fact that Selfridges are doing an in store pop up based around the idea of gender neutral brands Calling itself Agender the unisex experience is being channelled through all Selfridges outlets taking their customers on a journey where they can shop and dream without limitation or stereotypes spanning across three floors. “People of all ages in all markets are constructing their own identities more freely than ever. As a result, consumption patterns are no longer defined by ‘traditional’ demographic segments such as age, gender, location, income, family status and more.”
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IMenswear - No gender, no demographic Fashion designers are changing with their consumers as the lines continue to blur between menswear and womenswear collections. Brands such as Prada, Givenchy and Saint Laurent have all featured both men and women within their shows with similar clothing making it so that the idea of ‘guessing the gender’ is fast becoming a fashion week pursuit. 69 Worldwide have shown how they are a gender defying brand with their NYFW presentation by self-proclaiming “No-gender, Nodemographic” representing unisex silhouettes but still featuring men in crop tops and long line skirts.
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Creative Direction- THE GLITZ With the Imperial War Museum’s up and coming exhibition “Fashion on the Ration” wartime trends are being brought to the media. War and conflict are hugely impacting on society and inspiring creatives. Oleskiy Zalevskiy’s models lay down pretending to be killed at his show; Zalevskiy turned his show into a performance devoted to a war theme. Gianfranco Reni sent his models down the catwalk wearing jewelled gasmasks, does this glamorise war and conflict that we are experiencing? With the rise of terrorist groups and constant conflict, it is no wonder that we are seeing creative direction showing this trend.
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Print & Graphic- PATCHWORK TROOPERS After seeing early adopters at London Fashion Week we were keen to detail the print and graphic trend that focuses on hand finished designs. Military badge motifs have been used to embroider and appliquÊ everything from denim to leather. This trend links to the 1970’s revival with souvenir style jackets being sent down the runway by Hyein Seo and Jonathan Saunders. The original jackets created by Japanese vendors for the soldiers at the end of World war two remain collectable and inspirational. This look is commercial and we feel that after filtering up, the trend will filter back down from the catwalk to street.
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VM & In store - FRAGMENTED WORKSHOP Open brick walls, mechanical systems, ductwork, cable ties nuts and bolts and unfinished concrete floors were very prevalent when exploring the trade shows in Berlin with brands such as Wondrous and Bergner Schmidt. This very raw visual merchandising styles can also be seen in brands such All Saints and Urban Outfitters. The materials are humble, simple, and economic: plywood, tin, plaster, pegboard, and raw steel. Nothing is glossed over. These brands encourage exploration and interaction enhancing the in-store experience.
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Menswear- URBAN UTILITY The military trend makes a welcome return however with a more of an urban edge. There is a sense of survival on the high-street with Christopher Raeburn taking inspiration from outdoor protective wear and endurance along with Phillip Lim including metal loops, climbing rope and safety belts in his collection. This trend focuses on tough and durable fabrics such as leathers, quilting and utility details. Head to toe air force blue shown in Valentino and Y-Project along olive green in Perry Ellis, Simon Miller and Y-3 collections give a uniform feel.
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What’s going on now? Exhibitions & Events Nostalgia // “DIE HEXE” by Alex Da Corte. Venue: Luxembourg & Dayan, New York Date: March – April 2015 Conflict // “Dashion On a Ration Venue: Imperial War Museum, London Date: 5 March – 31 August 2015 Gender Equality // BEARD Venue: Somerset House, London Date: 5 – 29 March 2015
Illustrations (FROM LEFT TO RIGHT) NOSTALGIA // CREATIVE DIRECTION Figure 1. Pratt, Charlotte (2014) Cereal at Cereal Killr Cafe [photograph] https://www.pinterest.com/pin/316237205060688844/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 2. Pratt, Charlotte (2014) Cereal at Cereal Killr Cafe [photograph] https://www.pinterest.com/pin/316237205060688848/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 3. Trengrove, Philip (2015) Molly Goddard AW15 [photograph] http:// www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19357/2/molly-goddard-aw15 (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 4. Unknown (2015) LFW Molly Goddard AW15 [photograph] http:// www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/02/lfw-molly-goddard-aw15/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 5. Stylonylon (2015) A Life Drawing Class: Molly Goddard aw15 [photograph] http://insideout.topshop.com/2015/02/a-life-drawing-classmolly-goddard-aw15 (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 6. Batliwalla, Navaz (2015) London Fashion Week AW15 Let’s Hear It For The Girls [photograph] http://www.disneyrollergirl.net/london-fashionweek-aw15-shrimps-molly-goddard-le-kilt/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) PRINT AND GRAPHICS Figure 7. Unknown (2015) J.W Anderson AW 15/16 Woman #LFW [photograph] http://clotheshorse-diaryofaclotheshorse.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/jwanderson-aw-1516-woman-lfw.html (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 8. Riley, Bridget (1993) Tate [painting] Nataraja http://www.tate. org.uk/art/artworks/riley-nataraja-t06859 (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 9. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Minnan Hui [photograph] https://www. pinterest.com/pin/316237205060603166/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 10. Unknown (2015) Catwalk Decoded: Jasper Conran AW15 [photograph] http://uk.glam.com/catwalk-decoded-jasper-conran-aw15/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 11. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Minnan Hui [photograph] https://www. pinterest.com/pin/316237205060603149/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 12. Unknown (2015) Paris Fashion Week Menswear AW15: Valentino [photograph] http://www.buro247.com/me/fashion/mens/valentino-aw15.html (Accessed on: 3.3.2015)
VISUAL MERCHANDISING & INSTORE Figure 13. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Vintage to a Tea Store [photograph] (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 14. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Vintage to a Tea Store [photograph] (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 15. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Kavat at Seek [photograph] (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 16. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Kavat at Seek [photograph] https://www. pinterest.com/pin/316237205060617777/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 17. Pratt, Charlotte (2015) Wool & CO at Premium [photograph] https://www.pinterest.com/pin/316237205060617784/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) MENSWEAR Figure 18. Unknown (2015) Sibling AW15 [photograph] https://www.pinterest. com/pin/316237205060603000/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 19. Slater, Karl (2015) Agi & Sam AW15 [photograph] http://www. kaltblut-magazine.com/agi-sam-aw15-backstage/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 20. Unknown (2015) Men’s Androginity. Gucci AW15 [photograph] http://designandculturebyed.com/2015/01/21/mens-androginitygucci-aw15/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015) Figure 21. Unknown (2015) Men’s Androginity. Gucci AW15 [photograph] http://designandculturebyed.com/2015/01/21/mens-androginitygucci-aw15/ (Accessed on: 3.3.2015)
GENDER EQUALITY CREATIVE DIRECTION Figure 22. Trans casting nyfw (2015) At: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/article/23716/1/why-nyfw-s-trans-casting-is-more-than-a-trend (Accessed on 03.03.15) Figure 23. Tiffany Campaign (2015) At: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/ article-2905102/A-celebration-gay-marriage-New-advertising-campaignTiffany-features-real-life-sex-couple-time.html (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 24. Selfridges Agender (2015) At: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/article/23424/1/selfridges-will-launch-a-gender-neutral-pop-updepartment ( Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 25. Sibling AW15 (2015) At: http://www.demotix.com/news/6626077/ sibling-presents-new-collection-london-collections-men-aw15 (Accessed on 03.03.15) Figure 26. Raf Simons gender fuse 1(2015) At: http://designandculturebyed. com/tag/gender-fuse/ (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 27. Raf Simons gender fuse 2(2015) At: http://designandculturebyed. com/tag/gender-fuse/ (Accessed 03.03.15) PRINT AND GRAPHICS Figure 27. Marlene Dumas, Mamma Roma (2012) At: http://www. johannesvermeerprijs.nl/archief.php?lang=en&jaar=2012&s=5 (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 28. Acne Studios Woman Power (2015) At: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/23371/1/acne-aw15 (Accessed: 03.03.15) Figure 29. Acne Studios Radical Feminist (2015) At: http://www.idolmag. co.uk/fashion/acnes-aw15-twist-on-tradition/ (Accessed: 03.03.15) Figure 30. Louis Vuitton 2015 1 (2015) At: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ luxury/mens-style/59283/louis-vuitton-aw15-menswear.html (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 31. Louis Vuitton 2015 2 (2015) At: http://www.buro247.com/me/ fashion/mens/louis-vuitton-aw15.html (Accessed 03.03.15)
VISUAL MERCHANDISING AND INSTORE Figure 32. Faye Toogoods sculpted maquettes for selfridges’ Agender project (2015) At: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2015/02/will-genderlessfashion-work-retail.html (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 33. agender logo (2015) At: http://www.selfridges.com/content/ article/coming-soon-agender (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 34. Agender. (2015) At: http://www.bbook.com/wp-content/ uploads/2015/01/toogoodmain-805x450.jpg?a00216 (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 35 Nicopanda ss15 1 (2015) At: http://www.wetheurban.com/ post/101768002154/fashion-nicopanda-spring-summer-2015-brainchild (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 36. Nicopanda ss15 2 (2015) At: http://s2.r29static.com/bin/entry/ f0b/x,80/1361956/image.jpg (Accessed 03.03.15) MENSWEAR Figure 37. Saint Laurent AW15 mens (2015) At: http://spindlemagazine. com/2015/01/paris-mens-fashion-week-aw15/ (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 38. Sibling AW15 mens (2015) At: http://www.sharpenedlead.com/?p=5203 (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 39. 69 Worldwide AW15 (2015) At: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ article/23708/1/69-worldwide-aw15 (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 40. Rick Owens AW15 Mens 1 (2015) At http://asset2.itsnicethat. com/system/files/012015/54c785955c3e3c1e88002da3/img_col_main/Top. jpg?1422362196 (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 41. Pratt. Charlotte (2015) Street Style LFW15 [photograph; man in heels] (Accessed 03.03.15) Figure 42. Rick Owens AW15 Mens 2 (2015) At: http://asset2.itsnicethat. com/system/files/012015/54c785955c3e3c1e88002da3/img_col_main/Top. jpg?1422362196 (Accessed 03.03.15)
CONFLICT CREATIVE DIRECTION Fig. 43. Glitter Gas Mask Gianfranco [Photograph] At: http://sweetsnobarts. blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/gianfranco.html (Accessed 3.4.2015) Fig. 44. Ration Book Front [Photograph] At: http://peopleatwar.org.uk/ imagebank/ration-book-front/ (Accessed: 3.4.2015) Fig . 45. Tower of London Poppies [Photograph] At: http://www.thisiscolossal. com/2014/07/tower-of-london-poppies/ (Accessed: 3.4.2015) Fig. 46. Recipeace Campaign Image [Photograph] At: http://recipeaceday. org/About (Accessed 3.4.2015) Fig. 47. War Themes Catwalk At: http://fashionweek.kiev.ua/zoyazvinyatskovskaya-o-tertem-dne-ufw-f-w-2014/ (Accessed 4.3.2015) Fig. 48. Diesel Teenage Britpop Army [Photograph] At: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/22250/1/diesel-s-teenage-britpop-army (Accessed 3.4.2015)
PRINT AND GRAPHICS Fig. 49. White Hand Crafted Jacket [Photograph] At: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/56705/page/2 (Accessed 3.4.2015) Fig. 50. Pratt. Charlotte (2015) Skull & Flower Jacket [Photograph] (Accessed on 4.3.2015) Fig. 51. Pratt. Charlotte (2015) Black Souvenir Jacket [Photograph] (Accessed on 4.3.2015) Fig. 52. Bright Trade Show Skull [Photograph] At: http://www.wgsn.com/ blogs/graphics/bright-trade-show-graphic-highlights (Accessed 3.4.2015 Fig. 53. Pratt. Charlotte (2015) Gold Hand Crafted Shorts [Photograph] (Accessed on 4.3.2015) Fig. 54. Rookie Yearbook Two Extras [Photograph] At: https://www. drawnandquarterly.com/blog/2013/08/rookie-yearbook-two-has-some-prettyrad-extras-were-so-so-excited-about (Accessed 3.4.2015) Fig. 55. Pratt. Charlotte (2015) LFW Girl Lips Jacket [Photograph] (Accessed on 4.3.2015)
VISUAL MERCHANDISING AND INSTORE Fig. 56. Chubb Katie (2015) Topshop VM Nottingham [Photograph] Fig. 57. Ryan Thomas (2015) Bergnerschmidt Berlin [photograph] (Accessed on 24.2.15) Fig. 58. Chubb Katie (2015) All Saints Boots Nottinghill [Photograph] Fig. 59. Chubb Katie (2015) Urban Outfitters VM Nottingham [Photograph] Fig. 60. Cheap Monday In-store [Photograph] At: http://www.studioem. net/2011/09/10-projects-spearheading-the-industrially-rustic-movement/ (Accessed 4.3.2015) Fig. 61. Anti Japanese Window Display [Photograph] At:http://www. corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/MH001142/antijapanese-windowdisplay#.UM3v1prJG8o.pinterest (Accessed 4.3.2015) Fig. 62. Industrial, Rugged In-store [Photograph] At: https://www.sishop. com.au/blog/tag/visual-merchandising (Accessed 4.3.2015) MENSWEAR Fig. 63. Y-3 AW 15-16 Paris Image 1 (2015) [Photograph] At: http:// clotheshorse-diaryofaclotheshorse.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/y-3-aw-1516menswear-paris.html (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 64. Lanvin, Menswear AW15, Man in Camo Top (2015) [Photograph] At: http://www.itslavida.com/menswear-aw15-report-part-2/#prettyPhoto (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 65. Phillip Lim AW15 Menswear Image 1 (2015) [Photograph] At: http:// clotheshorse-diaryofaclotheshorse.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/31-phillip-limaw-15-menswear-paris.html (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 66. Martin Lekic KTZ aw15 (2015) [Photograph] At : http://www. nevsmodels.co.uk/upload/54b7d987a618fmartin_lekic_ktz_aw15.jpg (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 67. Seredyak, Bogdan (2014) [Photograph] At http://www.theupcoming. co.uk/2014/02/12/nyfw-skingraft-aw-2014-collection/ (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 68. LC:M Christopher Raeburn AW15, Man in Blue Coat (2015) [Photograph] At: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2015/01/lcm-christopher-raeburnaw15/ (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 69. Isis (2015) [Photograph] At: http://www.nbcnews.com/storyline/iraqturmoil/secret-life-isis-leader-abu-bakr-al-baghdadi-n132311 (Accessed on 3.3.15) Fig. 70. NO15s Ronald Epps @ Wilhelmina for Perry Ellis aw15/16 (2015) [Photograph] At: http://no15scouts.tumblr.com/page/2 (Accessed on 3.3.15)
WHATS GOING ON / ILLUSTRATIONS Fig. 71. Imperial War Museum (Unknown) Fashion On A Ration [Photograph] http://www.iwm.org.uk/exhibitions/iwm-london/fashion-on-the-ration (Accessed on 4.3.2015) Fig. 72. “Die Hexe” (2015) [Photograph] At: http://www.timeout.com/ newyork/art/alex-da-corte-die-hexe (Accessed 3.4.2015) Fig. 73. BEARD (2015) Woman with beard [Photograph] http://www. independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/art/news/the-majesty-of-beards-tobe-celebrated-in-somerset-house-exhibition-9912682.html (Accessed on 4.3.2015)
Charlie Pratt / Katie Chubb / Thomas Ryan