Cheers Vol. 42 May / June 2019

cheers C O M P L I M E N TA R Y M A G A Z I N E

FYNBOS & FLAVOUR

PLAT A CO PY

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BY M ARLE WEST NE VAN DER HUIZ EN

GREAT DISCOVERIES:

HOPPILY EVER AFTER...

THE BREEDEKLOOF BEER’S FAVOURITE INGREDIENT

A MAGIC TWIST FOR

A GREAT NEGRONI w w w. t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

cheers TEAM TOPS at SPAR Group Promotions & Advertising Manager – Liquor Jess Nicholson Group Advertising Controller – Liquor Nicole Hesom

FROM THE EDITOR

W

hile ageing myself by admitting this, my matric year coincided with George Orwell’s famous book title – Nineteen Eighty-Four. So guess what we had as the theme of the English Olympiad that year? Yup, no brainer – Nineteen EightyFour, not Animal Farm.

I’ll never forget how far fetched it all seemed, introducing us to the concept of Big Brother watching every move. But even through the passage of the years I’ve never forgotten one seminal image of the main character, Winston, with gin-scented tears trickling down his face as he realises the futility of his existence.

I’d never even been near a bottle of gin at that stage! My dad was an occasional scotch and beer man while my mom was partial to the odd sherry or glass of semi-sweet white wine.

And yet I was well into my 30s before I even tried a sip of gin & tonic. Hated it! Way too bitter. It made me gag. But then I did a little 750km walk in Spain called the Camino de Santiago and that was when I made up for lost time. The Spanish love their gin and my stroll to Santiago was a spiritual one in the sense that I tried gin in every town. Even in little fly speck villages the local bars mixed a mean G&T. Three bullets of ice and a freehand pour of local Larios gin, just topped off with a smidgeon of tonic. After 15 to 20km of hot, hard walking with a pack on my back it was truly heaven sent!

To me, there is nothing nicer than a crisp gin, ice-cubes clunking or tinkling in a glass on a hot summer’s day. But I am genuinely thrilled by the gin revolution that is taking place worldwide – even more so by the innovation that South African distillers are bringing to the local and international scene.

The KWV’s Cruxland gin, with its unique infusion of Kalahari truffle, has just won a Double Gold medal and was crowned International Spirit of the Year at the World Spirits Award. That’s a great achievement but I love trying as many of the local spirits available as possible – so this month’s category tasting was a real delight. In addition to fabulous citrus, local distillers are able to go foraging in the veld for unique fynbos – and because of the country’s amazing plant diversity and endemism, no-one else in the world can rival us.

So while Orwell’s dystopian novel has become frighteningly real with cameras monitoring our moves, and orange-hued politicians feeling no shame about foisting “alternative facts” in a form of “doublespeak”, I now appreciate why Winston cried gin-scented tears...

FIONA MCDONALD CHEERS EDITOR

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INTEGRATED MEDIA Publisher Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za Editor Fiona McDonald fiona@integratedmedia.co.za Art Director Candi Acheson studio@integratedmedia.co.za Advertising Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za PR & Promotions Dee Griffin dee@integratedmedia.co.za Photography iStockphoto.com Contributors Lucy Corne, Emile Joubert, Teresa Ulyate, Bernard Mocke, Gerrit Rautenbach, David Bowman, Brad Cartwright, Clifford Roberts.

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By entering these competitions you make yourself subject to receiving promotional information. Entrants are deemed to have accepted these terms and conditions. Prize Draw Rules: The prize draw is only open to consumers who must be over 18 years of age and resident in South Africa. Employees of Integrated Media and TOPS at SPAR, SPAR and their respective advertising, media and PR agencies, as well as the family members, consultants, directors, associates and trading partners of such organisations and persons are ineligible for the draw. Participants can only win one competition every 3 issues.

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14 IN THE SPIRIT OF CRAFT The rise of South African gin

contents 2 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

regulars 01 FROM THE EDITOR Orwell’s lasting impression

04 NEWS SCOOP

Zero beer, Meerendal turns 50, Durban Poison beer and more

22 PERFECT SERVE Negroni with a twist please!

38 HOT BITES

PLATE A COP Y OF

Nibbly bits of news

BY M A RLENE VAN D ER WESTH UIZEN

42 BOOK GIVEAWAY

Marlene van der Westhuizen’s Plate

46 EMILE JOUBERT Kerrie 2.0

48 SWEET TREATS Potatoes & puddings

52 HOT NEWS

Jazz delights & places to go

56 THINGAMAJIGS

A few of your new favourite things

57 SPAR GOOD LIVING

features

Silver tarpon tamed

Local craft gin

61 WRITE A BOOK Going the self publishing route

24 JUST THE TONIC

64 BOOKS, CDS & MOVIES

27 FROTHY FERMENT Saccharomyces explained

30 WINE ROADTRIPPING The valley less travelled

33 TALL TALES

Hops growing in George

www.cheersmag.co.za

58 FISHING QUEST

18 TASTING:

Bitter bubbles for gin

Check out Cheers magazine online

Starting out on an egg

62 BUCKETLIST Going gorilla scouting

What’s new & exciting

66 APPS

Virtual vaults for passwords

68 WASTE NOT, WANT NOT Recycling entrepreneurship

71 NEXT ISSUE

The softer side of brandy

72 LOOPDOP

Gerrit Rautenbach herinner M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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THE SCOOP AWARDS ADD UP FOR KWV South Africa’s KWV Cruxland Gin is on a roll, having recently won International Spirit of the Year 2019 at the World Spirits Awards as well as being pronounced the best South African London Dry Gin at the World Gin Awards.

As a result of the Spirit of the Year award, a double gold medal for Cruxland Gin and a further seven gold medals for a range of KWV brandies, the KWV was also classified a World-Class Distillery for 2019 by the World Spirits Awards.

“This is only made possible through the hard work, passion and dedication of our whole team,” said Ilse du Toit, the KWV’s Blending Manager. “To have been recognised and awarded these awards amongst some of the world’s best distilleries is a tremendous honour, not only for us but also for the country.”

Since its inception in 2004, The WorldSpirits Awards (WSA) has established itself as the global benchmark in the world of spirits. The credibility of the WSA lies in the expert knowledgeability of the jury, based on their meticulous training and the unique underlying system of assessment.

Distilleries from 25 different nations participated in the World Spirits Award 2019 with 493 spirits submitted from 117 distilleries – more than 90 of them being gin!

Cruxland’s infusion of eight exotic signature botanicals and rare Kalahari !N’abbas is a world-first.

Also known as ‘Kalahari truffles’, this unique ingredient grows in the Kalahari region and is only harvested after the first rains by those who have the rare skill to find this gem of the desert. The judges commented on the Gin’s masterful variety spectrum calling it exciting and fresh with delicate juniper aromas and floral aspects.

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BABOONS, FLOWERS & WINE South Africa’s people are culturally diverse, as are the various provinces – from the dry Karoo to sub-tropical KwaZulu-Natal, the oceans are cold in the west and warm on the east coast and the country’s wines are too.

Vondeling, a wine farm in the VoorPaardeberg region near Paarl, has a blended white wine which encapsulates this magnificent diversity in its blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. The wine – Vondeling Babiana – also pays homage to a unique little plant which is found ONLY on the slopes of the Paardeberg, in the wine farm’s backyard.

The Babiana Noctiflora is an endangered species and is a delicate, pale creamy yellow tubular flower with a sky-blue stamen. It’s a member of the Iris family and takes its name from

the Dutch word baviaantje meaning little baboon because early settlers noted the primates eating the corms of these plants. The Noctiflora part of the name comes because its releases a strong scent at night to attract a rare moth which pollinates it.

The newly released vintage of Vondeling’s Babiana is the 2017 and MD Julian Johnsen said the age and low yield of the old Chenin Blanc vines planted in 1986 ensured consistent quality and concentration. “That’s why the Chenin forms the backbone of the blend.” The aromatics and verve of the Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussanne temper the older Chenin’s full richness.

Winemaker Matthew Copeland praised the vibrant, textured palate, saying it reminded him of white pepper, jasmine, creamy lemon meringue all supported by subtle oak.

Not for Persons Under the Age of 18. Enjoy Responsibly.

VISUAL CONSTANTIA FEAST

Meerendal, one of South Africa’s oldest wine estates celebrated an historic milestone with a very special wine tasting of Pinotage from a single vineyard which has survived and produced grapes for the past 55 years.

Local mountain bikers love the Durbanville property for its challenging climbs and great tracks, but its primary function is grape growing and wine making, boasting the oldest vineyards in the region.

Its Heritage Block Pinotage planted in 1955 is one of the four oldest remaining Pinotage vineyards in South Africa.

Meerendal is one of a few wineries with a bottling history dating back to the sixties, making a retrospective sampling of the history of its wines possible – even though many of those bottles had to be bought back! The vertical tasting started with the first ever Meerendal Pinotage from 1969, followed by the fabled 1974 vintage, a 1978, 1982, 1996 and then the first ever single-vineyard bottling of the flagship Heritage Block Pinotage from 2005.

To coincide with this 50th anniversary, a new wine, The Pinotage Vine, was released – and it’s a departure in style and making from everything that has gone before.

Wine maker Liza Goodwin (above) said it shows Pinotage’s versatility. Wine from the 2016 vintage was made and matured in barrel for 11 months – before the fresh skins of the 2018 Heritage block grapes were added. It then spent a further seven months in small French oak barrels before bottling. This unusual technique added a new dimension of flavour which Goodwin described as elegant and full-bodied with layers of savoury aromas. Lovely ripe dark plum flavours linger on the palate and are complemented by soft, silky oak tannins.

Since this old vineyard is showing the wear and tear of the past five decades, Meerendal has combined with Vititec, the SA leader in vine plant material improvement, to identify, treat and clean some of the best vines of the 1955 Heritage block. The new planting material will be used to fill the gaps in the old block. In this way the DNA of the original vines from Professor Perold, the founder of Pinotage, will be preserved.

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ZERO RATED Life is all about the choices we make. Heineken, one of the world’s most recognised beers are taking their responsibilities seriously and urging beer lovers to do the same.

Heineken 0.0 has been launched in South Africa, an alcohol-free lager brewed with a unique recipe to provide a typically crisp beer flavour but with no alcohol and a scant 69 calories per 330ml bottle.

The brand’s iconic green label has been turned blue – the colour associated with the alcohol free category. Master Brewers of Heineken’s beer created the new alcohol free beer using only natural ingredients, resulting in a beer brewed for beer lovers, by beer lovers.

“Removing alcohol from regular 5% Heineken beer would have been easy, but it wouldn’t deliver the best tasting non-alcoholic beer,” said Willem van Waesberghe, Global Craft and Brew Master. “Heineken 0.0 beer is brewed from scratch and has a perfectly balanced taste with refreshing fruity notes and soft malty body.”

“Heineken 0.0 opens up new occasions for beer lovers or those making healthier lifestyle choices, without having to compromise on taste.

Now you can enjoy the unique and refreshing taste of Heineken 0.0 any time of the day, whether after exercise or while watching an early morning game,” said Heineken Marketing Manager, Lauren Muller.

Photograph by Corrie de Vries

TASTING HISTORY

Two decades ago there were just three or four wineries in the Constantia wine region. Now there are a dozen or more and one of them has just released a richly visual book detailing its transformation from forest plantation and cattle stud.

Constantia Glen – A timeless vision captures the life and times of this boutique wine estate through its early history and eventual transformation from forest land into one of the Cape’s premier family owned wine estates which sees thousands of visitors flock to it every week.

Researched and written by author Clare O’Donoghue and stunningly illustrated by photographer Craig Fraser, the book is a celebration of Constantia Glen’s prowess. Although it’s a historical account, rich in scale, it is also the intimate story of the Waibel family whose determined vision is underwritten by a deep love for the land they have nurtured over four generations.

Boasting some of the most jaw-dropping views in the Cape winelands, the 60 hectares of undulating landscape have been in the Waibel family, a textile dynasty from Dornbirn, Austria, since the late 1950s – first as forest, then an Angus stud before returning to vineyard. The first vines were planted in 2000 with the very first vintage of Sauvignon Blanc harvested in 2005.

Constantia Glen is open from Sunday to Thursday from 10h00 until 18h00 and on Fridays to Saturdays from 10h00 until 20h00. Look out for the Constantia Glen signs towards the top of Constantia Main Road. Call 021-7955639, e-mail reservations@constantiaglen.com, visit www.constantiaglen.com,

ELLIES IN EQUILIBRIUM There’s a new game in town – and it involves wine and elephants!

Balance, the quirky range of wines made for everyday enjoyment, has released a new online game which has perfected the fine balancing act of having loads of fun while caring for the environment.

By helping Hank the elephant balance his way on a unicycle back to his ancestral desert home, players stand a chance to win Balance Bucks, redeemable when purchasing wine at the Balance online store. Balance Bucks can be redeemed after each stage of the game. For Balance Bucks redeemed after completing the final stage of the game, a donation will be made on your behalf in support of the Elephant Human Relations Aid (EHRA) PEACE project. This educational initiative promotes the peaceful cohabitation of local communities with desert-adapted elephants in Southern Africa.

The Balance game is compatible with smart devices and PCs and can be accessed directly online at https://balance.wine without having to download an app or the game itself. The game can also be accessed through a QR code found on Balance wine bottles.

Players need to complete three levels by making Hank tilt and jump to miss obstacles and score points by collecting fruit reminiscent of the rich flavour spectrum found in Balance wines. Discount coupons in the form of Balance Bucks from R20, R40 to R60 respectively can be won after the completion of each level, depending on your score. The final level culminates with Hank travelling through the desert to join a herd of elephants.

PASTEL PINK CHARMER Bubbly is big – and growing in popularity. Everyone loves a little celebratory fizzy wine to start either an event, a party or simply to lift the mood over a weekend.

Robertson winery has added a delicately pink dry sparkling wine to their range of bubblies. The Robertson Sparkling Brut Rosé joins the Sparkling Brut, Sparkling Sweet, Sparkling Sweet Rosé as well as the non-alcoholic Sweet White and non-alcoholic Sweet Pink.

The wine has an appealing gentle strawberry colour and offers up floral and candied fruit aromas but the wine remains delightfully dry in the mouth. It’s lively, fresh and vibrant with ample bubble and effervescence and when enjoyed well chilled, is guaranteed to lift anyone’s mood.

BEERY CO-LAB The Proclaimers had a hit with their song about walking 500 miles for love but how far would hopheads go for unique beer?

Newlands Spring Brewing Company, the crafty arm of brewing behemoth ABInbev (ex-SABreweries), has collaborated with Elysian Brewing Company from Washington in the United States – also part of the ABInbev stable.

The resultant limited edition special brew is called 10,000 Miles Fresh Hop Ale and is a fruity, medium-low sweetness IPA with firm bitterness.

Elysian Brewing Company’s brewing ingredient specialist Markus Stinson co-opted the help of Newlands Spring brewer Warren Wiese in the project – and travelled out to South Africa in March to arm wrestle over the beer.

Ultimately 13 varieties of hop and three of malt were used. “We drove to George, the only place in South Africa where hops are grown, picked the hops and drove back with 50kg of Southern Passion and 20kg of African Queen,” said Wiese. The beer is a wet hop beer, made within six hours of the hops being picked. “They had an incredibly fresh smell and you could see the quality was great.” A fresh hop beer is made by adding a large amount of hops at the end of the brew house process, giving less bitterness and a bright fruity character for maximum flavour.”

The brew house process used only local hops (Southern Passion and African Queen), and when the wort was added to the ferment vessel, the American hops were put into play. US varieties used were the Pink Boots Blend (Loral, Mosaic, Simcoe, Sabro and Glacier), and the Veterans Blend (Cashmere, Centennial, Ekuanot, Mosaic, Simcoe), Amarillo and Eureka! The Pink Boots Society, which releases the annual hop blend of the same name, is an international non-profit organisation supporting women in the brewing profession, while the Veterans Blend supports US war veterans.

Wiese said beer fans could expect an “intriguing nose of ripe mango, passionfruit, some grassy notes, a little guava, some light lemon hints and red berries and on the palate a medium low sweetness, balanced with a firm bitterness and a light honey malt character”.

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JOZI BREWER Named the Grand Champion at the 2018/2019 African Beer Awards, as well as the Best Pale Ale, was the Mad Giant’s Killer Hop. “Mad Giant is about the ordinary person that’s crazy enough to pursue a massive dream,” says brewmaster and founder Eben Uys. Thirty-something Uys, who obtained his PhD in chemical engineering at Stellenbosch University, is both chemist, beer lover and father and takes his environmental responsibility seriously – so is only packing his brews in cardboard.

The brewery was fired up just three years ago with a simple aim: to brew beer for happiness.

They soon realised the only way to smack a smile on, as Mad Giant’s tagline howls, is when you know your impact on the planet and people.

“Plastic has become a massive pollutant of our rivers and seas. We don’t have an option but to start a journey of eradicating plastic.

“It’s our responsibility to be friendly to the environment; I want to create a legacy worth something to the next generations.”

Using cardboard has increased costs ten-fold.

“Paper labels are almost double the cost and they don’t last as well in an ice bucket. But we cannot imagine the future cost of trying to clean the ocean and breeding sea life from scratch.”

Photograph by Grant Bushby

STEEN WITH THE STEINS In days of yore, Chenin Blanc was known locally as Steen – and coincidentally, this style of wine will be among the many featured in a brand new 13-part television series about the Durbanville wine valley.

Renowned celebrity chef Rick Stein’s two sons, Charlie and Jack pictured above, spent a big chunk of the South African summer filming in and around Durbanville while grapes were being harvested and vinified.

The series, Wine, Dine & Stein was produced by local outfit, Oxyg3n Media, and has already been pre-sold to the UK, Denmark, Norway and Poland with more countries lining up to acquire the show. It will also be seen in SA later this year on a yetto-be announced channel on DStv. Created by JAG Communications’ Grant Bushby and Janine Walker, Wine, Dine & Stein finds the Stein siblings spending a day on each of the 12 wine farms that make up the Durbanville Wine Valley, tasting their wines, sampling (and helping cook) their food and embarking on a series of dares and challenges.

Some of the more interesting activities the “boys” got up

to – while not eating and drinking – included paragliding off Hamburger Hill at Meerendal, firing the Big Bertha cannon at Signal Gun, taking part in a wheelbarrow race at Klein Roosboom, rounding up cattle via quadbikes at Groot Phesantekraal and wakeboarding at the Hillcrest quarry.

Like his father Rick, Jack Stein (38), is an accomplished chef and author and, apart from presenting TV series, also oversees the kitchens of all 14 Rick Stein restaurants. Brother Charlie (34) works for The Vintner wine merchants in London and also helps taste and select all the wine for the family’s restaurants.

“I had the most fun I’ve had in ages filming this series and I can’t say enough about the warmth, hospitality and generosity of the people we met, not to mention the amazing food we ate and the brilliant wines we drank,” said Jack.

“Each and every wine farm in the valley offers something different from the other,” said Charlie. “From the small boutique, but utterly charming Klein Roosboom, to the bigger estate that is Durbanville Hills – but which still manages to convey a feeling of family.”

ITALIAN INSPIRATION The world over people love all things Italian: the food, the music, the culture with its passion for life but particularly the wines. The late Anthonij Rupert did too – and believed that Italian wine grapes would be well suited to South African growing conditions. Decades ago he pioneered their introduction and was the first to produce Sangiovese and Nebbiolo wines locally.

Sadly, he was tragically killed in a vehicle crash some years ago but his wines live on in the Terra del Capo range which has grown and flourished under the supervision of Anthonij’s brother, Johann Rupert.

The Terra del Capo range currently consists of two reds (the Sangiovese and the Arné red blend which is a Sangiovese and Merlot) and one white, Pinot Grigio. The wines are light, supple and perfectly suited to enjoy with food and friends.

Since 2011, the home of Terra del Capo at Anthonij Rupert Wines near Franschhoek has been revamped into the beautifully designed and Italian-inspired Terra del Capo Tasting Room. Drawing on Franschhoek’s reputation for breathtaking scenery, award-winning wines and local, produce-driven cuisine, the Terra del Capo Tasting Room is informed by all the good things in life – what the Italians refer to as la dolce vita, or ‘the sweet life’ – transforming wine tasting and food pairings into a relaxed, indulgent experience in elegant surroundings.

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CHARM PERSONIFIED

FLYING HIGH

The fast-paced hustle and bustle of life is stressing people out! There’s a need to push the pause button, get off the hamster wheel and just engage in a meaningful way with things that are pleasant and fun.

The Old Road Wine Co. is a new undertaking which is looking to not take itself too seriously but still be positive about the local wine fraternity. As their marketing blurb states, whether consumers are sinners, saints or sages there is something for everyone in their layered collection of wines which cut across a range of new wines, old vines and even critter labels – because it’s all about the stories ... Each wine tells a tale of real characters in the Cape winelands during the 19th century, full of colour and charm, at a time when Franschhoek was somewhat adrift from the industry. Expect to find stories about a mischievous station master, a hungry dog, a misfiring butcher, poor blacksmith, gossiping ‘smous’, industrious grandmother and a trusted postman.

The tall tale isn’t enough to make a repeat sale so winemaker Ryan Puttick has ensured that the fermented juice in the bottle is equally engaging.

“The Old Road Wine Co. offers wines that deliver something interesting and highly enjoyable at various tiers and price points, which is so important in a marketplace with so many different wants and needs,” said Tim Hutchinson, one of the investors behind this novel concept.

Benguela Cove lagoon wine estate is a rather special place – with mountain, sea, vineyard and lagoon views in abundance. While its visitor offering ranges from unique pirate treasure hunts for children to High Tea or oyster samplings for adults, it’s the wine which is firmly front and centre.

Cellarmaster Johann Fourie could – if he wanted to – actually make 360 individually unique Sauvignon Blanc wines off the property! That’s because of the multitude of soils, vineyards, clones and even different fermentation vessels that he has to play with ... from clay and shale soils, six individual Sauvignon Blanc grape clones, all the way through to wooden vessels, concrete eggs and clay amphora!

“What makes Benguela Cove an exciting wine estate to work with, is its great diversity of soil and slopes and the variety of cultivars planted here. An added bonus is the close proximity to the ocean that ensures a cooling effect with welcoming breezes to keep the vineyards healthy and disease free,” Fourie said.

“We want to share this with the public and invite them to discover Benguela Cove. The Vinography range represents a journal or diary for the estate, hence the name, capturing the ongoing process. One can never become complacent. If you don’t try something, you might never know what the outcome could’ve been.”

And his inveterate experimentation found its ultimate expression in the super-premium flagship offering which announced its presence with top ratings from Platter, critic Tim Atkin and various other awards – the Catalina Semillon from 2017. It’s from a single vineyards, less than one hectare in extent which delivers exceptional quality – and longevity. With just 1 400 bottles made, the team advocate only approaching it after 10 years. It’s also a homage to the Catalina flying boats which operated from the Bot River lagoon during World War II.

LEADING THE (SCOTTISH) WAY Jointly presented by TheDrinksReport.com and Whisky Magazine, the World Whiskies Award is among the highest profile whisky awards on the planet – with judges comprising journalists, members of the whisky trade and industry experts selecting only the best across a range of internationally recognised styles.

Scottish Leader’s rich and silky flagship, the 12-year-old, won a gold medal for Scotch blended whisky in the 12-years and under category for the second year in succession.

Behind the growing appreciation for this blended spirit sold in 30 international markets, is a talented team headed by Dr Kirstie McCallum, a chemist by training and one of the first women in Scotland to become a whisky maker.

In the blend are some of the finest unpeated Highland and Speyside malts, combined with Scottish grains for a smooth, approachable style. The majority of the Highland and Speyside malts selected are matured in American oak casks which contribute toward the rich oak and vanilla characteristics, and the fruity, floral elegance.

“This impressive spirits continues getting international recognition. Apart from the gold medals achieved for two consecutive years, in 2018 and 2019 at the World Whiskies Awards, it also earned gold at both the 2016 and 2017 editions of the International Spirits Challenge (ISC), a gold outstanding medal at the 2015 International Wine & Spirit Competition as well as ‘master’ status at the 2015 The Spirits Business Global Scotch Whisky Masters competition,” said global marketing manager Liezl Dippenaar. “Scottish Leader 12-year-old truly provides outstanding quality and flavour, showcasing the consummate skills of our blending team. It really means a lot to this dynamic brand that stands for the richer possibilities, brought on by taking a new perspective.”

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SOMETHING NEW FROM SPRINGFIELD Springfield Sauvignon Blanc is a staple of the South African summer. Crisp, zesty and refreshing, it matches any occasion when the sun is shining.

But the Bruwer family of Robertson who produce this popular tipple have even better news for adventurous wine lovers: a brand new wine!

Springfield Albariño was launched in suitable style with platters of prawns, battered hake and chips at an iconic Hout Bay landmark, the Chapman’s Peak Hotel. Only the third Albariño to make it to the South African market, Springfield state that this wine is – like their popular Sauvignon Blanc – intended for friends, food and fun times.

Albariño is a popular grape grown in Spain and Portugal where it is known to pair well with seafood on account of its brightly vivid acidity and fresh lemony flavour.

AUCTION RAISES MILLIONS In only the sixth staging of the event, the Cape Wine Auction raised nearly R15 million specifically for education in the winelands, bringing the tally raised to date to just under R88 million.

Held at Buitenverwachting in Constantia earlier this year, the Cape Wine Auction is acknowledged as one of a handful of high-profile wine auctions worldwide which does a phenomenal amount for charity.

The auction has created a benchmark in philanthropy, with 100% of proceeds going to 22 beneficiaries, all of whom have had a profound impact on education and the lives of children in the Cape winelands.

“At a time when South African education is in crisis and donor fatigue is on the rise, the Cape Wine Auction Trust is now more important than ever,” said Darielle Robertson, director of The Cape Wine Auction. “We are delighted with this year’s results, and it means we can continue with our programmes and see a tangible difference.”

Highly sought-after curated lots went under auctioneer Dan Nichol’s hammer with the top price of R3 million bid for an exclusive Marovasa Be experience in Madagascar while a further R1 million was paid for The Man & Soil lot which was a joint venture between Ashbourne’s Emul Ross and ‘rock star’ winemaker Eben Sadie.

CAPTURE THE MOMENT It’s the ultimate selfie moment ... having your friends feature on the packaging of a limited edition 3L bag-in-box wine! In a first for South Africa, Drostdy Hof is featuring the special moments of hundreds of South Africans in a photographic collage on each pack.

Towards the end of last year thousands of images were received from wine-lovers nationwide in the #CaptureYourMoments digital campaign, all vying for a chance to have their special moments with their friends and family captured on the limited-edition packs and on Drostdy Hof’s social media platforms.

The range of 3L bag-in-box wines are exactly the same quality wines found in the 750ml bottles and include both dry and sweet taste profiles. Convenient and hassle-free, the environmentally friendly box wines are the perfect addition to any occasion.

The Drostdy Hof Natural Sweet White is delicate and fruity with a crisp, sweet finish whilst the Drostdy Hof Natural Sweet Red is a light and fruity red with a smooth finish. The vibrant Natural Sweet Rosé is a fun combo of strawberry, cherry and plum flavours. The Drostdy Hof Claret Select displays upfront strawberry, mulberry and ripe red fruit flavours.

The Adelpracht is a full and rich wine with dried apricots and peaches, at touch of honey and floral notes balanced with a lovely acidity.

Check out the packs to see if you can either spot yourself or your mates!

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SPIRITED TWIST REPORTS OF ITS PREMATURE DEMISE MIGHT BE DOING GIN A DISSERVICE – AND ALSO FALL INTO THE CATEGORY OF “FAKE NEWS”. IN SOUTH AFRICA THERE ARE NO SIGNS OF THE GIN CRAZE DISSIPATING. FIONA MCDONALD REPORTS.

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lephants are such a powerful symbol of Africa.

They’re renowned for their family bonds with herds led by strong matriarchs, cows who know where the waterholes and best grazing are, whose instincts to protect their young are fierce and whose memories are legendary.

Sipping a gin and tonic while the sun sinks into the African bush is the stuff of movies, storybooks and lifetime bucket lists. And it’s precisely what South Africans Les and Paula Ansley did while on safari in Kenya. Whether it was the gin in her glass which prompted Paula’s idle musing or a snippet of conversation from the ranger which prompted Indlovu gin’s birth

is not exactly clear. That Indlovu gin is the most unique of a recent spate of products coming out of South Africa is beyond question – because it is made using elephant dung! (Indlovu is the Nguni word for elephant, by the way ...)

Elephants are notoriously bad digesters. They eat a lot of food during the course of the day – up to 200kg of foliage – but a large percentage of that remains undigested. Elephant dung has been used in traditional medicine or specially brewed teas in Africa for many years, so why not in gin? Paula Ansley thought. Roger Jorgenson of Wellington, a man who has trained legions of local distillers, helped them perfect their

EBONY ROSE 60ml Musgrave Pink Gin Blackberry Jam (*must use jam not syrup) Fitch and Leedes Tonic Fresh Lemon Crushed Ice GARNISH: Blueberries or blackberries and Lemon Rind METHOD: 1 Drop a generous dollop of blackberry jam into glass.

2 Thoroughly stir the double shot (60ml) of Musgrave Pink Gin. 3 Fill glass to the brim with crushed ice.

4 Add a generous squeeze of lemon.

5 Top up with tonic.

6 Garnish by placing a few fresh berries onto a cocktail stick and resting on the ice, dress with lemon rind.

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product which is described as having “uniquely wooded, earthy flavours” but gin lovers need not fear: the traditional juniper, angelica and citrus notes of standard or London Dry style gins are also discernible!

Since the Ansley’s are keen on conservation and wildlife preservation, 15% of the profits will be going to the Africa Foundation to support their work in conservation through the Phinda Wildlife Project.

The Wine & Spirits Trade Association recently reported that the UK market for gin had doubled in the past two years alone – and more than 73 million bottles of gin, worth £2 billion, were sold last year alone. (In South African money, that’s R38 billion. To place that in perspective, it is almost what Eskom’s Medupi power station was supposed to cost ...)

Elephant dung might be a bit exotic for British tastes, but the good news is that South Africa’s craft gin scene shows no signs of abating, as many local distillers testify.

“South Africa sits on a treasure trove of natural wonders, and gin has been the perfect fit for presenting our natural bounty to both local and international audiences,” said Stefan Coetzee, managing partner of Bloedlemoen.

“It’s a versatile spirit, which leaves a lot of room for creativity and flair to all those involved in the movement.

It focuses on the occasion, sunsets, lazy afternoons with friends, beautiful backdrops and drink presentations.”

GIN

Coetzee said one of the reasons the local gin scene has expanded from a handful of examples five years ago to nearly 200, was the speed of development as well as distillation techniques and the abundance of styles and flavour influences.

“There is no sign of slowing down for the category in the local market,” he said. “What is happening is maturation – with serious players being separated from flash-in-the-pan opportunists.”

There was a natural culling of those capitalising on the trend from those whose production method and integrity are paramount. “There are very clear differences between the passion and detail from the craft movement and the various players trying to capitalise on it with substandard product.”

Andre Pienaar is the master distiller behind Pienaar & Sons and concedes that there will have to be a cut-off point somewhere.

“New brands enter the market every month,” he said, echoing Coetzee’s observations. “The market can’t support an endless amount of gin so the saturation point will be reached at some stage. And then trends are just that – trends! We humans are very distractible animals and the fashion will eventually move to another category, but I believe this is still a long way away.”

ClemenGold’s Charlene Nieuwoudt agreed. “But gin appeals to such a large target audience – gender and age – and the new innovative ways of enjoying it are so diverse that we feel the gin trend will continue for quite a while.”

Musgrave was one of the first noticeably different gins available locally. It has parlayed its subtle pink colour and uniquely shaped bottle into a rapidly growing and loyally supported brand, locally and abroad.

“Before the global gin renaissance, this was a category previously dominated by a few stalwart heavyweight brands which did little to innovate,” Katie

ABOVE: The “son” part of Pienaar & Sons, Andre Pienaar in his happy place – surrounded by gin.

Coetzee, global marketing director of Musgrave said.

“With the entry of hundreds of smaller, boutique challenger brands offering rich stories and progressive variations, a new interest in the category was ignited and continued to grow.

Gin, unlike wine or aged spirits requiring a reasonably longer time period for production, is very quick to make, so when an ample supply and ample demand collided, the boom happened.”

Originality and continuing to drive innovation would be what kept customers engaged and excited and would ensure sustainability of the various brands, Coetzee said.

“The nature of ‘trend’ is transience and change – it’ll be exciting to watch how

|

SPIRITS

producers and brands weather the oncoming storm of saturation in the marketplace following the boom we’ve seen,” she said.

Flavours seen in abundance on local retail shelves include rooibos, Kalahari truffle, buchu and a variety of fynbos as well as lots of citrus. Both ClemenGold and Bloedlemoen celebrate citrus.

Nieuwoudt said the easy peeling, virtually seedless ClemenGold mandarin was an aromatic, sweet soft citrus fruit grown in Mpumalanga, Limpopo, Southern and Western Cape.

“Eight botanicals – with sundried ClemenGold peels taking the flavour lead – are used when handcrafting this distillation,” she said. “ClemenGold and orange peel, cinnamon, ground almond, juniper berries, angelica and orris root as well as coriander are macerated M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

15

SPIRITS |

GIN

All of these spirits will drink well on their own, with a block or two of ice. “If you dolly it up too much with different garnishes, you lose the essence of the gin.” and vapour-infused to create this smooth classic Cape Dry style gin.”

Blood oranges are not often to be found in South Africa – something Coetzee says is changing. “We use the Tarocco blood orange. It’s deliciously juicy and flavoursome – with quite a unique raspberry-like flavour,” he said. What sets it apart is the presence of ruby colour pigments – or anthocyanins – in the flesh.

“It’s the backbone of our gin, balanced by the spicy nuances of nutmeg, cassia, grains of paradise and angelica root to bring you a balanced, textured and complex contemporary gin.”

What might surprise consumers is that all of these spirits will drink well on their own, with a block or two of ice. “If you dolly it up too much with different garnishes, you lose the essence of the gin. With a good local tonic and a dried (or fresh) ring of ClemenGold it’s superb,” said Nieuwoudt.

Bloedlemoen’s Coetzee concurred: “Some Indian tonic and a dried piece of orange and possibly a cinnamon quill or piece of cassia bark,” he advised. But NEVER a slice of lemon – please!

Bloedlemoen is orange-based and the lemon would be too tart and acidic. “The general rule of thumb is to use flavour combinations that complement each other, so a good place to start is to use some of the flavours and botanicals prevalent in the product – i.e. fynbos with a fynbos gin, citrus with a citrus gin etc. Sometimes you can go for presentation over function, and garnish with pretty edible flowers and the like.”

Pienaar has – to use his words, “taken more of a cultural approach to celebrate Cape Town culture and its history”. He is of the opinion that local inspiration is great “but it doesn’t have to be a literal one, so we don’t use any fynbos at all in our gins”. The Empire boasts 16 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

cucumber, lemon, grapefruit and lime leaves while the Orient is redolent with vanilla, rosemary, ginger, all-spice, mandarin orange and cinnamon.

“Tonic is the obvious mixer,” he said, “and I prefer a mild, easy, Indian tonic. Something that just supports the gin and lets it tell the story while not overwhelming it. Our Empire is amazing with cucumber and thyme and our Orient does really well with grapefruit and lavender but generally I’m a big believer in ‘less is more’ when it comes to garnish.”

Katie Coetzee of Musgrave agrees with that sentiment, advising two blocks of ice and an African sunset as the ideal pairing.

“We don’t follow the fynbos story most others from our region do. We worked with credible experts to create our signature awardwinning recipe that essentially unpacks a tale of adventure and spice, nodding to 11 African botanicals blended and distilled into a very unique flavour profile.

“The spice infusion and story comes from our founder’s family-heritage story, as her grandfather came to Africa in

the early 1900’s and mapped a discovery of 11 botanicals used in our gin. Hence the name, Musgrave 11. The thinking behind Musgrave Pink was to package and message a product that embraces femininity in a male-dominated world of spirits.”

And while a cucumber and rosemary garnish work well with Musgrave, Coetzee warned of having too liberal a hand with the tonic. Her suggestion would be to try it with a 50/50 tonic and soda water mix.

Pienaar also had very firm views on garnishes ... “I feel like it has become very gimmicky. The craft gin industry was born because it tasted better than regular gin.

Now it feels like if your gin isn’t blue, black, pink, filled with sparkles or doing flick-flacks, it’s boring.

Lately it seems to purely be a game of visuals and gimmicks!”

But the South African gin scene doesn’t need to rely on gimmicks or marketing smoke and mirrors. The bounty of local raw materials is so diverse, along with the creativity of its makers that there is no sign of the craze abating anytime soon.

CLEMENGOLD GIN AND TEA 50ml ClemenGold Gin 15ml lime juice 50ml Orange & Rooibos Ice Tea (or other citrus flavour) 10ml ClemenGold syrup* 3 dashes orange bitters A few sprigs of fresh oregano METHOD: 1 Shake ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice.

2 Serve in a rock glass on ice and garnish with a fresh or dried ClemenGold ring. *FOR CLEMENGOLD/CITRUS SYRUP: 250g sugar ½ cup water 2-3 ClemenGold (or other citrus) peels ½ cup lime juice METHOD: 1 Heat in a pan over medium heat until sugar dissolves.

2 Bring to the boil and simmer until it achieves a syrupy consistency.

3 Strain and store for future use.

GIN

TO THE MAX

FLAVOUR

TA S T I N G |

IT WAS A TALE OF TWO TASTINGS: THE FIRST TO SET THE TONE FOR AN ECLECTIC MIX OF LOCALLY AVAILABLE SOUTH AFRICAN CRAFT GIN SAMPLED IN THE SECOND. THE RESULTS WERE – AS EXPECTED – INTERESTING...

FIONA MCDONALD REPORTS. TASTING PANEL: HEC TOR MCBE TH, JEAN BUC KHAM, JUSTIN SHAW, SHAYNE DOWLING, DEE GRIFFIN, FI ONA MC DONA LD

18 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

T

his was the best thing you could have done,” said Jean Buckham of The Gin Box. “Have us start by tasting a range of well-known commercial gins – products that anyone can walk into their local TOPS at SPAR and buy – and then following it with the local craft gins.”

And what a fascinating exercise it proved to be! Gin is just exploding in popularity in South Africa – but the experts on the panel advocated a modicum of caution. Gin is a very easy product to make – so a lot of folks are jumping on the

bandwagon of sourcing basic cane spirit and then infusing it with a plethora of botanicals.

“But just because you can do something, doesn’t mean you should...” said spirit aficionado and regular CHEERS panel taster Hector Mcbeth.

Echoing something which Stefan Coetzee of Bloedlemoen said in the article on gin on page 14/15, Cause + Effect barman Justin Shaw concurred. “My prediction for this category is that there is going to be attrition.

Some of the chancers are going to fall by the wayside and what will remain are good gins, solid

gins, well made and crafted by people who love the spirit and really know what they are doing.”

Proprietor of The Gin Box Jean Buckham said one thing needed to be kept in mind: to be called a gin it must have notable juniper character. “And all of the examples in the first flight had that – which you would expect because they are recognisable brands and consumers expect them to taste a certain way. Of the nine products tasted in the second flight, only two displayed juniper forward flavour. As nice as they all were, they were very bold and brash, possibly too overwhelmingly powerful... but isn’t that a very South African characteristic?”

A very interesting point about patriotism in spirit form was made by Hector Mcbeth at the end of the tasting. He queried why gin was being used

as the vehicle for a range of flavours, from citrus to fynbos.

“Why don’t we celebrate our heritage and the fact that we’ve been making Mampoer for centuries – and this is effectively what these craft examples are?

Our grandfathers and greatgrandfathers were distilling spirit from citrus 100 and 150 years ago but we have to ride on the coattails of gin to celebrate local flavours and ingredients...”

Since Cause + Effect has recently been awarded the title of Best Cocktail bar and Best bar team in South Africa in the BAR awards the final word went to Shaw: “I’m excited by what is going to happen in the next few years with South African gin. We are in a special position of being able to make something utterly unique using local ingredients such as fynbos botanicals which no-one anywhere else in the world can emulate.”

EDITOR’S CHOICE! ROKU

This Japanese craft gin is winning fans all over the world. Resin and pine needles with wood, leather and even bamboo shoots.

Juniper is there, as is citrus and fruit pastilles with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar. Oriental said Jean.

BEEFEATER 24

Quintessential juniper nose, some citrus and spice said Hector and Jean. Notably spicy with star anise, cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg – but not dominant.

BULLDOG

Lime cordial was Dee’s comment. Bright, bold citrus tang with some dusty green herbs. Flavour comes in waves Hector said, lush mouthfeel with quite perfumed juniper character. Jean suggested using a strong garnish when mixing a drink with this one.

STRETTON’S DOUBLE CUT

Made for mixing cocktails said Justin. Clean and bright with faint Turkish Delight nose, peppery, long and dry with just a touch of sweetness. Solid and dependable.

SPECIAL MENTION! THE BOTANIST

PANEL’S CHOICE! TANQUERAY 10

Grapefruit, juniper, fruity and expressively aromatic with balanced sweetness and lingering flavour. Justin found tropical papaya and lychee notes. Shayne noted subtle blossoms and green tea.

Complex and packed with botanicals but the juniper is still loudest said Justin. Dry and spicy with some heathery – almost fynbos – notes said Hector. The dusty herb/heather and sage element means it would work well in cocktails. Subtle but earthy, indicative of the orris root and angelica used in the distillation.

HENDRICK’S

Understated nose with gentle juniper, floral sweetness that hints at its complexity. Smooth and balanced with ginger spice and some green, vegetal elements, Fiona said.

M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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GIN

EDITOR’S CHOICE! WIXWORTH RENOSTERBOS

PANEL CHOICE! PIENAAR & SONS EMPIRE

Aromatic juniper on nose and palate. Bright and peppery with nutmeg, cinnamon and Cape Malay spice, complex and silky mouthfeel. Understated and sophisticated. This is a seductive whisper rather than a loud shout!

BLOEDLEMOEN

Another one which reminded Hector of mampoer or newmake spirit. Marmalade fruitiness, candied peel or cake fruit mix. Spicy and peppery with star anise, ruby grapefruit said Jean.

DISTILLERY 031 D’URBAN BARREL AGED

Unlike anything that preceded it, Hector said this is stylistically reminiscent of a Dutch jenever. Shayne and Fiona got caramel, brulee, vanilla and spice which are oak-derived flavours. Wood shavings and then spirit with a lovely balance of fruit and wood, Hector said.

GINOLOGIST CITRUS Naartjie peel, said Shayne.

There is no mistaking the citrus in this! Bold thickskinned lemon peel, citrus leaf and oils. Dee found a herbal eucalyptus element along with cinnamon spice.

20 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Juniper is the boldest note in this one with a subtle fynbos, grassy nuance below. Light citrus but quintessentially a gin with juniper character speaking loudest. Well made, sophisticated, bright, clean and a delightfully understated African spin on a London Dry style.

WOODSTOCK INCEPTION

Grappa-like, said Hector. Dry with a grape undertone, vanilla and oak notes. Fiona found it green and leafy but smooth textured. Another one which would do well with punchy flavour garnishes said Jean.

BOPLAAS 8 CITRUS

Full on, both barrels, turbocharged citrus all the way!

Orange, lemon, naartjie, kumquat and more... the panel felt they could almost enjoy this on its own, no mixer. Just to sit and sip it, possibly with a block of ice, Jean said.

AFRICAN CRAFT HONEYBUSH

Honey and tea are what more than a few tasters noted. Jean appreciated the texture that the tannins and tea notes contributed. Fiona noted fynbos, cardamom and spice along with a thatch and autumn leaf flavour.

Terms and conditions apply. Competition valid: 17 June – 31 July 2019. www.topsatspar.co.za/party-central/competitions

Exclusive to TOPS at SPAR

PERFECT SERVE

COUNT OF COCKTAILS

“WHEN MADE CORRECTLY IT IS A PERFECT BALANCE OF ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH, BITTERNESS, SWEETNESS, AND CITRUS FLAVOURS,” SAID AUSTRALIA’S 2006 BARTENDER OF THE YEAR, OLIVER STUART. “ALL THE WHILE REMAINING FLORAL AND REFRESHING YET STRONG AND SMOOTH. YOU CAN’T STOP AFTER THE FIRST NEGRONI, AS IT LEAVES YOU CRAVING THE NEXT.”

O BELOW: Shaking it up - at South Africa’s top cocktail bar, Cause + Effect in Cape Town, is Justin Shaw who developed the local spin on a classic.

ut of four gin producers interviewed for this issue’s story on the versatile and wildly popular spirit, three said the Negroni was their favourite gin cocktail. What’s more, bartenders and mixologists are also more likely to favour a Negroni in their downtime than a Martini, Cosmopolitan or Manhattan.

Various sources disagree on the origins of the cocktail – and even on the geographical location of the Count which the drink is named after. (Most cite his Italian – Florentine – roots while others say he was from Corsica.)

22 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

What they do agree on is that it became popular in the second decade of the 20th century and that it was the refinement of a previously well loved drink dubbed the Americano. And that particular tipple has an interesting history of its own. Writing on www.eater. com in 2015, Naren Young cited the influx of Americans to Italy after Prohibition (1920 – 1933) was proclaimed in the United States for the growth of the cocktail.

Already well known locally as the Milano-Torino or MiTo, it was a mix of Campari (from Milan) and Cinzano (from Turin) – but the American visitors liked a bit of fizz so asked for it to be topped off with soda water. Hence the Americano.

The Campari contributed a bitter fruitiness and herbal flavour while the vermouth of Cinzano added sweet dryness.

Count Camillo Negroni was a well documented lover of all things alcoholic, and needed something a little more fortifying than soda so instructed his local bartender to swop out the soda

for gin. He was known to polish off 10 – albeit small glasses – in a sitting! Soon other punters were wanting their Americano cocktail the Negroni way.

Renowned film director Orson Welles was one of the first people to document the Negroni, Wikipedia reports. While working in Rome in 1947 he described the Negroni thus: “The bitters are excellent for your liver, the gin is bad for you. They balance each other.”

The classic Negroni is one part vermouth rosso (red, semi-sweet), one part Campari and one part gin, mixed together and served over ice, garnished with a twist of orange peel.

Justin Shaw, the main drink slinger behind Cape Town’s popular Cause + Effect Cocktail Kitchen which won Cocktail Bar of the Year in the recent BAR awards (along with Bar Team of the Year) has put his South African spin on this classic by utilising a local gin as well as Caperitif, a local Vermouth.

(All CHEERS readers are welcome to try this at home. And if anyone is sufficiently fascinated by the story, Florentine bartender Luca Picchi is such a fan that he wrote a book: Sulle Tracce del Conte: La Vera Storia del Cocktail Negroni. Translated, it is On the trail of the Count: The True Story of the Negroni. The book was only translated a few years ago and is apparently difficult to find – even overseas!)

CAPE NEGRONI

25ml Blind Tiger gin 25ml Campari 25ml Caperitif (South African vermouth)Â 2 dashes orange bitters

Mix together all the ingredients and serve garnished with a slice of dehydrated orange and a small sprig of lemon buchu.

M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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SPIRITS | M I X E R S

THE STORY OF INDIAN TONIC WATER IS MORE THAN JUST ABOUT ADDING BITTERNESS IN COCKTAIL YIN-YANG, WRITES CLIFFORD ROBERTS.

IN PRAISE OF

BITTER NESS Y

ou have to wonder how a mixer that has been so big in the gin revolution has failed to share nearly the same amount of limelight.

Why does tonic water largely remain in a low-key sidekick role when, like gin, it’s made with botanicals but far cheaper to make, not confined by onerous liquor laws and taxation and, has far wider potential?

The general history is wellknown, so here’s the abbreviation.

Tonic was born from its association with quinine, a compound used as far back as 1600s in South America, where cinchona trees were concentrated, against malaria.

The history of quinine itself is fascinating and as intriguing as any globally-impacting drug can be.

Imagine having the global monopoly for Penicillin or Statins. For quinine in

ABOVE: The gin & tonic is no longer a simple drink. Ramping up the wow factor by adding herbs and other garnishes has become commonplace.

LEFT: Flashback – how an apothecary would have presented quinine in a previous century.

24 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

the 1800s, that turned out to be the Dutch, who had added cinchona to its plantations in Java and boomed in supplying the demands of colonialism.

It was around this time that gin was on European minds too with Britain notoriously finding its taste for the drink (also thanks to the Dutch). No surprise then when it was discovered that the bitter tincture of cinchona bark used to release the quinine, could be made more palatable by adding a mix of sugar water and a spot of Mother’s Ruin.

The race to commercialise “tonic water” was eventually won

by Swiss amateur scientist Johann Schweppe, who brought botanicals to the mix along with his invention of commercial water carbonation.

Schweppe launched his Tonic Water in 1870 and named it after India, jewel of the British Empire.

The quinine business was on

a good wicket until the turmoil of WW2, which spurred not only the expansion of these invasive plantations to other parts of the world, as in Central Africa, but the roll-out of more effective, synthetic anti-malarials too. So, the reliance on cinchona and quinine subsided. Tonic however, lived on thanks to the taste we’ve developed, not only in G&T but bitters and vermouth too.

Closer to home, G&T’s became the go-to drink on safari long before the thirst for craft gin arose.

On this note an abiding myth needs to be busted: you’re not going to beat malaria with the cocktail. The amount of quinine in commercial tonics is so low, you’re likely the effects of excessive alcohol and/or sugar will take you

down before achieving the medical quantity to threaten the disease.

But today, various brands are available in South Africa including internationals Fever-Tree (“If 3/4 of your drinks is mixer, mix with the best”), Q Tonic, Fentiman’s, Franklin & Sons, Goldberg, Lamb & Watt and Schweppes; Swaan, Swartland winemaker Adi Badenhorst’s brand that launched in 2014; Socks Tonic; Durban’s 031 Tonic Cordial; Franschhoek-based Geometric Drinks’ tonic cordials; and, Cape Town’s Cinchona Tonic Water.

It’s also not a one-size-fits-all game either. Taste profiles differ wildly and these days colour too: think pink and blue.

Distiller Dys Grundling of Grundheim, who makes gins including Black Mountain, Naakte

RIGHT: The first commercial tonic brand the world saw and fell in love with is also the most widely recognised nowadays.

BELOW: Tonic water comes in many guises – sugar-free, pink, blue, elderflower and more!

Not all gins like a flavoured tonic, but exploring the matches is part of the enjoyment

Naartjie and Doringrosie, admits his preference for a simple tonic, where the gin botanicals get to shine.

“But flavoured and coloured tonics bring diversity and new waves of excitement to the category, especially at the entry level.

“Not all gins like a flavoured tonic, but exploring the matches is part of the enjoyment,” he says.

Barker & Quinn is one tonic home-grown success story that has enjoyed meteoric rise, going from kitchen brewer to export in some two years. Hanneli van der Merwe, who has a PhD in Viniculture from the University of Stellenbosch, and Chris Wium previously worked in the cork industry when they launched the new enterprise. Hanneli noticed that growth in gin diversity wasn’t matched by tonic and so googled DIY tonic and started a test brew in her kitchen.

M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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SPIRITS | M I X E R S

The first, small batch was such a success, a pre-order for 60 bottles arrived from Asara Estate’s gin bar. She realised it was time to get serious. Their branding and product saw them involved in a major collaboration with Hendrick’s Gin. In November last year, they moved into their first official premises in Klapmuts, near Paarl.

Fortune has also favoured the Stellenbosch-based brand inspired by the 16th century British explorers Ralph Fitch and William Leedes.

Chill Beverages, the company that makes Fitch & Leedes tonic and several other drinks, was acquired in 2017 by SA businessman Brian Joffe in a nine-figure deal.

Clearly, tonic (and the soft drink game) is no small beans. Fever Tree Drinks PLC is listed on the London Stock Exchange and valued at around £3-billion (±R57-billion).

But hold up just a sec before you set out to build your own tonic empire. Kommetjie-based botanist Stefan Wiswedel launched his Little Wolf brewery’s Cape Dry Tonic in the process of expanding his range. “G&T has always been a go-to refreshing drink for me so [tonic] made sense. Once I delved into the history and some old-school recipes, the botanical aspects really grabbed me!”

26 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Still, it wasn’t easy. “It remains one of the most difficult recipes I’ve ever worked on,” he says.

“The very big guys essentially just use chemical quinine, sugar, water and citric acid. Little Wolf wanted to be different, so we use cinchona bark, lemon grass, lime leaves, orange zest, allspice, salt, citric acid, sugar and water.

And we use the actual whole botanicals, not just extracts or ‘nature identical’ flavourings.”

But that’s all coming to an end and the tonic is being discontinued, essentially due to pack size and price point, plus bars prefer a single serve to keep trade easy and quick, says Stefan.

His view now might offer a reality check for any craft enterprise.

Asked why tonic diversity has lagged behind gin, he reckons: “As long as you have an inexpensive, decent tonic that isn’t too sweet and can support/play with most gins, then the vast majority of people will just go for that.”

ABOVE: Who wouldn’t find this moisturebedecked cocktail pretty and appealing? And it’s all because of the tonic...

BELOW: The dried bark of the Cinchona tree is what adds the distinct quinine bitterness to tonic but this is what the raw material looks like.

GOT THE BLUES?

Ever notice a blue tinge to your G&T? It’s the quinine alkaloid that makes tonic glow neon when exposed to UV light. Bars use a black light as a nifty trick to show off their stock, but it’s also the reason a G&T changes its hue in sunlight. The phenomenon is common with craft tonics, which generally use higher levels of quinine.

THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT

Tonic ingredients are household items.

Cinchona bark and quinine will take a little more digging. Gauteng-based Distillique sells quinine online for R220 for 20g – enough to make at least 240-litres of tonic if used at the maximum dosage. Another online site, Brew For Africa, sells cinchona bark at R30 for 20g. Most importantly, be aware that quinine in concentrated form poses severe health risks.

YEAST

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F E R M E N TAT I O N

FANTASTIC

FUNGUS

HUMANKIND HAS BEEN WALKING HAND IN HAND WITH SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE SINCE THE FIRST BEER AND BREAD WAS MADE, BERNARD MOCKE WRITES. THIS MUTUALITY BETWEEN MAN AND MICRO-ORGANISM HAS EVOLVED OVER 5 000 YEARS AND PAVED THE WAY FOR CRAFT BREWERS, WINEMAKERS AND A VARIETY OF DISTILLERS TO COME UP WITH THE VAST ARRAY OF DELICIOUS AND INTERESTING ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES AVAILABLE TODAY. M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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F E R M E N TAT I O N

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YEAST

F

ungus … fantastic? If the title seems a little confusing, consider that all yeast is essentially classified as fungus. And as far as the fantastic part is concerned, it really is quite fantastic.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae, also known as baker’s yeast or brewer’s yeast, is the “go to” guy when it comes to baking bread and brewing beer, to name just two handy things the various strains are capable of.

In the right hands and with the proper ingredients wine, whisky, brandy, gin, rum, tequila, vodka and numerous other beverages can be made.

THE GIFT OF FERMENTATION (AND ALCOHOL) Seeing that yeast (and in some instances selected lactic acid bacteria) is the only living organism used during winemaking, one could easily liken the act of fermentation to one huge house party: it is loud, there are a lot of participants and alcohol is involved. The primary goal of fermentation is of course the production of alcohol from sugars such as glucose and fructose. And this is something commercial yeast starter cultures are very good at.

Charles Hopkins, De Grendel Wines cellar master, says that modern day winemaking conditions are becoming increasingly harsh, yet the chosen yeast for a specific fermentation still has to perform. Or simply put, convert pretty much all the fermentable sugars to alcohol.

“Commercial yeast strains are developed for extreme winemaking conditions and are well adapted to perform well under high sugar concentrations and low

RIGHT:The chemical formula for the fermentation of alcohol – but it still brings to mind William Shakespeare’s line: “Bubble,bubble, toil and trouble...”

“To me there is no more beautiful sight than a strong fermentation with lots of foam and beautiful fruity and floral aromas when I come into the brewery in the morning.”

fermentation temperatures. Remember that wild yeasts are typically not adapted to these conditions and can fall short during fermentation. It is about trust and confidence and a winemaker shouldn’t have to worry if a yeast will be able to ferment a must to dryness, which is the main role of any wine yeast.”

A robust fermentation that kicks off without any delay and finishes the job without any off-aroma production is not only a requirement during brewing, but also a thing of beauty, says Eric van Heerden, owner and brewer at Triggerfish Brewing.

“Remember that during fermentation the yeast uses nutrients and oxygen while producing alcohol,” he says. “This ensures dominance of the fermenting yeast. To me there is no more beautiful sight than a strong fermentation with lots of foam and beautiful fruity and floral aromas when I come into the brewery in the morning.”

Unfortunately fermentation problems during brewing are a reality and include contamination (when an unwanted micro-organism is present during fermentation, often causing off-aromas) and sluggish (slow) or stuck fermentations where the desired alcohol concentration is not achieved.

AN AROMATIC AFFAIR The secondary goal of fermentation is the production of a desirable aroma profile, whether it be for wine, beer or a distilled beverage. Smell is absolutely crucial to the enjoyment and appreciation of your drink of choice.

“There is a good reason that the brewing of ale is more popular for smaller craft breweries,” Van Heerden says. “Ale is fermented at 18 - 25°C and lager at 9 - 12°C, which has significant implications. Lager takes longer to produce and the cost of the

the gift of

fermentation

C6H12O6→ 2 C2H5OH + 2 CO 28 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

lower temperatures (during fermentation as well as laagering) makes ale a better proposition. But there is also the aroma aspect – there is a wider range of aromas possible with ale and then there are also much more ale yeast strains available, each one with its unique aroma signature.

For instance, by modulating Weiss beer fermentation temperature the brewer can strongly influence the production of clove and banana aromas. At 18°C clove aromas are favoured and at 22°C banana aromas become prominent. Pretty much all Weiss beer aroma comes from yeast and the savvy brewer will use this knowledge to his benefit.

“Our Big Five beers are proof that really good aromas and strong fermentations resulting in beers with an alcohol of more than 10% are possible. Our Big Five are the Stonefish (English Barley wine, alcohol 10.6%), Black Marlin (Russian Imperial Stout, alcohol 10%), Crazy Diamond (Belgian Strong Dark Ale, alcohol 13.2%), Monster Fish (Vanilla Bourbon, alcohol 11.2%) and Apocalypse (Wee Heavy, alcohol 10%).”

Craft rum sales is on the verge of taking off in South Africa and yeast can make the difference between an excellent rum and a mediocre one. “Rum is made from molasses, sugar, water and yeast,” Van Heerden says. “Switching from a distilling yeast to a wine yeast has made all the difference. The two rums we make, the Floating Dutchman White Cape Rum and the Floating Dutchman Cape Rum, now sport a softer taste, a more rum-like aroma and even the alcohol perception is less pronounced.”

Hopkins says that the choice of yeast strain also plays an important role during winemaking, particularly for varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. “While these yeast strains can influence the production of a certain style of Sauvignon Blanc, terroir ultimately determines the final outcome.

For red wine the effect of yeast on aroma is less pronounced due to the presence of natural grape tannins and very often oak tannins and aroma compounds due to barrel ageing.”

THE CURIOUS CASE OF BRETT Ostensibly there is no other yeast so controversial in winemaking as Brettanomyces bruxellensis, also colloquially referred to as Brett. While some winemakers believe that small quantities of this yeast in wine are desirable, others see it as a contaminant and a spoilage yeast and thus, yeast non grata.

Under specific conditions in wine Brett can produce off-odours reminiscent of horse sweat, barnyard and medicine or even Elastoplast – definitely not aromas you want in your delicate Pinot noir.

But in certain beer styles Brett’s skunky shenanigans are highly sought after, says Van Heerden. “Brett is used for the brewing of Belgian sour beer and gives a very complex character. I have a residential colony of Brett in some barrels and they’ve been around since 2012 when our first Russian Imperial Stout, the Black Marlin, was brewed.”

Yeast has been part and parcel of fermentation for centuries and our relationship with these industrious little fellows will likely continue for as long as humans continue enjoying alcoholic beverages – which is hopefully for a very long time still.

ABOVE: Whether it be whisky, beer, wine or cider, yeast is the common ingredient kick starting the process.

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WINE | B R E E D E K LO O F

BROADENING HORIZONS FOR DECADES, THE BREEDE RIVER VALLEY HAS SIMPLY (BUT WRONGLY!) BEEN VIEWED AS THE SOURCE OF HUGE VOLUMES OF GRAPES FOR BULK WINE DESTINED FOR BAG-INBOX OR OWN LABEL EXPORTS FOR UK SUPERMARKETS – OR SOMEWHERE LOCALS COULD STOCK UP ON CHEAP WINE. AS FIONA MCDONALD WRITES, THIS IS NO LONGER THE CASE.

S TOP: The wide alluvial plain created by the Breede River is home to some of the largest plantings of Chenin Blanc in South Africa.

igns. They’re everywhere.

Directional signs and road names, arrows, leaves turning brown and falling from the trees, birds flying in formation, heading north for winter – or that stray grey hair that is joined by another ... and another signalling the advancement of the years and inevitable ageing. Our forefathers would have considered a solar or lunar eclipse a sign from the gods that the end of the world was nigh.

So jaws dropping at the announcement of a coveted 5 Star rating in the annual Platter Guide for a wine from the Breedekloof

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was a sign too. A sign of things changing “anderkant die berg”.

Actually, that’s wrong: wines from the Breedekloof had won 5 Stars before – but they were for sweet wines, muscadel, jerepigo or noble late harvests. But for a dry wine – and a Chenin Blanc nogal?

That was in 2014 and the wine was the Carl Everson Chenin Blanc 2013 from Opstal Estate made by a young, but very determined Attie Louw, the seventh generation winemaker to farm these broad, vineyards in the beautiful Slanghoek valley.

Louw was throwing down a

marker and in case his brothers and sisters in South African wine hadn’t heeded his challenge, that 2013 vintage was followed by another 5 Star for the 2015, and joined by a 5 Star Semillon, The Barber 2015, only the third time it had been bottled. By the time the 2019 Platter Guide was published, Opstal Estate was not the only Breedekloof winery getting the ‘red ink’ treatment. * Olifantsberg family vineyards had its Shiraz-based blend Silhouette written up in red for the 2015 achieving a 4½ Star while the previous 2014 rated the full-house 5 Stars. A maiden Grenache Blanc 2017 scored 4½, as did its 2017 Blanc, an interesting white blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Chenin Blanc.

Like the annoying advert used to state: “but that’s not all!”...

Stofberg Family Vineyards joined the party too by achieving 4½ Stars for the 2017 Pinot Blanc as well as the 2017 Israel Chardonnay.** Bergsig also chalked up 4½ Stars for its Icarus white blend and three 4 Stars for its Tant Anna Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc Reserve and Icarus red blend.

Merwida got three 4 Stars, Family Reserve Chenin Blanc, Barbera and Sauvignon Blanc, while

Daschbosch got two – for its Cape Blend and Steen.

But there is more to life than Platter ratings – and this is where the Breedekloof producers are maxing out their natural bounty.

It’s easy to see from the above that Chenin Blanc does well in these broad alluvial plains surrounded by towering craggy peaks. The beauty of the area is arresting with vistas that stretch for miles. Exiting the

Huguenot tunnel past Paarl while driving on the N1 to Johannesburg reveals the rocky sides of the Du Toitskloof mountains but also the acres of vineyards around Rawsonville and Worcester.

The names are familiar: Du Toitskloof, Du Preez, Goudini, Merwida, Deetlefs, Kirabo, Daschbosch – and if you turn left towards the Slanghoek valley there is Badsberg, Slanghoek, Jason’s

TOP: Wine in pellet form... freshly-picked healthy grapes being tipped into bins for transport to the cellars and wineries of the Breedekloof.

BOTTOM: Diversity on display – from sparkling wine to red and awardwinning Chenin Blanc, there is something to suit all tastes and budgets.

Hill, Seven Oaks, Opstal, Breëland, Mountain Oaks, Botha, Bergsig, Lateganskop, Waboomsrivier and Mountain Ridge.

It’s an area mountain bikers and hikers love, a fantastic place for a weekend or holiday getaway because of the Breede river for rafting and paddling, hot springs at Goudini, great trout fishing in the Holsloot and Molenaars river near Rawsonville – and it’s long been the secret of wine lovers hunting a bargain.

For decades their wines were cheap, be it to locals road tripping on a weekend or British, Dutch, German or Belgian supermarket buyers. The only thing which separated the one group from the other was the volume of wine purchased. A six or 12-bottle case versus 50 000 or 100 000-litre lots for export abroad and bottling under the buyers-own-brand label.

But the young generation have taken over the reins – like Attie Louw and Mariëtte StofbergCoetzee and (sixth generation) Ivy du Toit of Jason’s Hill – and are doing things differently.

The Breedekloof boasts the biggest plantings of Chenin Blanc in the country so it makes perfect sense to leverage that. This is a new generation of winemakers M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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WINE | B R E E D E K LO O F

THE FIRST CHAPTER

The Israel Chardonnay has a special story behind it. It’s more than “just one barrel” of Chardonnay. It’s inextricably linked with a tale of hope, upliftment and advancement beyond a wildest dream.

Israel Delport left school at 16 to start as a general farm worker. Like Attie Louw of Opstal, Mariëtte Stofberg-Coetzee is the third generation to grow grapes and make wine on the family property – and she recognised a man who was keener and more interested than his peers.

She fed his curiosity by enrolling him in courses at Elsenburg agricultural college in Stellenbosch.

“As a tractor driver and vineyard worker,” Israel said, “I always wondered what happened to the grapes after they were delivered to the cellar. It fascinated me. I eventually decided to ask Mariëtte whether I could help in the cellar.”

And that was when his world changed. He was selected as one of 10 students to participate in an exchange programme to Burgundy in France.

For someone who had never been further than Beaufort West, France was seriously unknown territory! Israel spent a six week internship at Domaine des Terres de Velle – a small boutique winery which left a lasting impression. His goal on returning to the Breedekloof was to make a Burgundianstyle wine.

who are keen to mix it up with their compatriots the other side of the mountains, in Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Elgin and Paarl.

They don’t want the area to be known for cheap and cheerful wines – although they acknowledge there is a place for that ... Their international aspirations (and achievements!) are growing too with more and more of them attracting attention from world wine critics like Tim Atkin.

What’s made the difference for them? Taking grapes such as Chenin Blanc seriously, identifying the best parcels of grapes or vineyard, ripening them a tad longer on the vine. Doing barrel fermentations or extended oak maturation. Investing in good oak barrels and even some newfangled kit like concrete eggs or clay amphora. Doing things their parents would not have done.

Experimenting with overlooked

TOP: Winemaker Elizma Visser and her hard working Olifantsberg team with their ‘stok-by-paaltjie’ vineyard.

grapes like Grenache Blanc, Pinot Blanc or Semillon – and adopting different winemaking techniques like natural or spontaneous ferments, doing skin contact on white wines ... but never losing sight of the human element. This is a place where the winemakers are like a band of brothers and sisters, united in a single vision of uplifting the area’s profile as well as its people and prices.

The Breedekloof and its wineries are worthy of more than just a glance as cars whizz past, heading up the N1. Heed the advice to slow down, take the turn-off and enjoy a few days in the valley, chilling, cycling, walking, enjoying old-fashioned hospitality with good food and increasingly impressive and acclaimed wines.

RED INK *Red ink in the Platter Guide is a signal of wines worth seeking out because they are a cut above the rest, rating higher – and not just once off, but on the basis of consistently good ratings over a number of years.

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Under Mariëtte’s watchful eye, he made a single barrel of Chardonnay which not only got 4½ Stars from the Platter tasting team but was also rated 91 points by eminent international critic, Tim Atkin in his 2018 South Africa Wine Report, describing it as having “flavours of citrus and crème fraiche, with fine lees and understated oak”.

Just 250 bottles of the wine were labelled, selling for R500 each – all proceeds going to the former tractor driver. Israel’s was the first Chardonnay made at Stofberg but won’t be the last, even though the farm’s focus is on Chenin Blanc and niche varieties. “The story of Israel’s Chardonnay is incredibly inspiring,” said Mariëtte, “but this is only the first chapter.

Israel has a bullish will to succeed, and this is the first step in what I hope becomes a very successful business venture for him.”

He’s now the assistant winemaker at Stofberg ...

BEER | H O P S

“...there is really no denying that hops bring the sexiness to your pint.”

CAPE OF GOOD

HOPS 33 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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BEER

|

HOPS

IT’S A PLANT WHICH GROWS – VERTICALLY – UP TO 20 FEET IN A YEAR! AND ITS LATIN NAME SOUNDS LIKE A SPELL WHICH HARRY POTTER AND HIS HOGWARTS WIZARDING COHORTS WOULD MUTTER: HUMULUS LUPULUS! LUCY CORNE INVESTIGATES THE HUMBLE HOPS.

I

f you ask the average beer drinker to name the four ingredients in beer, most will come up with hops first. Even nonbeer drinkers tend to think of hops before malted barley, yeast or the most abundant ingredient, water.

And yet, few of those people would be able to tell you exactly what hops are or what they do to a beer.

Hops weren’t always on the menu when it came to brewing. In fact one of the earliest scientific mentions of hops was by a Benedictine nun in the 12th century – thousands of years after the first beer was brewed. But it would be another couple of centuries before hops would take over from gruit, a blend of herbs and spices used to lend bitterness and flavour to beer.

Hops took a while to catch on but they boasted an added benefit: antibacterial properties that helped preserve the beer – crucial in a prerefrigeration world.

SOUTHERN PASSION So what is a hop? These climbing plants tend to grow best between the 45th and 55th parallels north, needing long summer days to reach their potential. But it is possible to grow hops outside this region and indeed, hops have successfully been cultivated in South Africa since the 1930s. It all began because of a hop shortage brought on by WWI. Local brewers decided they need to be more self-sufficient and began growing hops in the Outeniqua Valley near George – a region chosen for its temperate climate.

Fast forward a few decades and varieties bred especially for South African conditions began to appear, starting with Southern Brewer, later followed by hops called Southern Star, Southern Promise, Southern Passion and more recently, African Queen.

These varieties – and numerous others – are grown on 10 farms.

Most of the farms are privately owned, but the entire crop goes to South African Breweries Hop Farms (SABHF) to be processed and either sold or used in SAB’s brews.

Hop production here remains entirely focused in the George area, where in growing season you’ll see the metres-high plants waving in the wind. The plants are grown by “hop trainers” and taught to grow up near-invisible wires so that from a distance it seems that they defy gravity. South Africa’s hop farmers tackle our comparatively short summer days with bright lights, shone on the plants to extend their growing time.

STOP AND INHALE Hops have long been lauded for their bittering properties, but since craft beer began to revolutionise the way we drink the amber nectar, hops are increasingly used for their flavour and above all, aroma. This shift in beer appreciation has also seen a shift in hop production both

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globally and in South Africa. Some 140 of South Africa’s 200-or-so microbreweries purchase hops from SABHF, and this has started to shape the hop breeders’ focus.

Where local hops were long grown principally to use for bittering, the breeders are now thinking about aromas and flavours when they create new varieties. Most sought after are the citrus-like and tropical fruit aromas most often associated with American hops. If you’ve ever stuck your nose into a glass of pale ale or IPA and received a nostril full of granadilla, orange rind, lychee or mango, then that would be the hops talking.

One of South Africa’s best known hop breeders has since shifted her focus to farming, but Beverley Ann Joseph has had a lasting effect on the local hop scene. “Once I started working on the breeding programme, hops took over my life,” she recalls fondly. “I was no longer cultivating an ingredient for beer; I was living, breathing and speaking hops. I forced hops into every conversation, dragged them along on holidays, and 10 years later we released three new highly soughtafter flavour varieties.”

Joseph continues to be a much-respected figure in the South African hop industry. After a decade working first with hops and later with malt, the opportunity arose to buy her own hop farm and in 2016 she became South Africa’s first female hop farmer, growing some 20 hectares on her Outeniqua farm.

HARVEST TIME When it comes to the global hop stage, South African farmers are mere extras, faces in the crowd. South African hop production counts for less than 1% of the world’s production, although hop growing here is on the up. Acreage is gradually increasing and the goal is to up production from 850 tonnes per year to 1 000 in 2020. Most of the crop is, of course, used by SAB, with the rest going to craft brewers and a small portion reserved for export.

The hop harvest takes place in late February and early March, when pickers perched atop tractors release the plants from their trellises with a swift blow from a panga or machete.

From here the hops are sorted and the flowers, or cones as they are also known, are separated from the stems and leaves. From here it’s straight to the oast house, where the hops are gently dried. It’s a crucial part of the process, for the plants will begin to rot within hours if they are not properly dried. Some brewers use whole hops in their brews, although most prefer to work with pellets, which to the untrained eye look a little like fish food – but smell a whole lot better.

Once the hops make their way to the brewers, they are added at various stages of the brew. Hops added early in the boil will lend bitterness to the beer. Those thrown in towards the middle of the boiling process will contribute flavour, while the hops tossed in at the end offer big aromas. These days, craft brewers are all in search of the ultimate aroma and will often hop again once fermentation is complete.

Dry-hopping, as this is known, offers an extra wonderful whiff to the finished beer.

It’s not a particularly pretty flower, all things considered, but there is something about the hop that just grabs hold of people.

No other ingredient spawns so many t-shirt slogans, social media handles or fabulously puntastic beer names (think Hopportunity Knocks, Tricerahops, Hoptimus Prime). When it comes to beer ingredients, malt brings the body, colour and plenty of flavour, water brings the refreshment and yeast brings the alcohol, but there is really no denying that hops bring the sexiness to your pint.

ABOVE: Winding its way inexorably upward, the hops plant is trained along vertical wires. Image source: SAB LEFT: Dried hops might not be the prettiest thing to look at, but its bitter contribution to ale is certainly flavourful. Image source: SAB M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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HOT BITES DELHEIM’S WINTER WARMERS French winemakers would wince if asked what their favourite Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is. That’s because it’s sacrilege to a Frenchman to blend the two – not that it presented any problems for Aussie winemakers who pioneered the wine style decades ago!

Stellenbosch producer Delheim’s example, part of the estate’s Lifestyle Range, is the property’s top-selling wine.

“This blend offers the best of both worlds,” said Delheim winemaker Roelof Lotriet of the 2017 vintage. “Its aroma is loaded with typical Shiraz spice and complemented by the mature tobacco leaf notes of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

“It’s lovely and juicy, with flavours of plums and cherries. Every sip lingers with bright red fruit,” Lotriet said. “It’s just perfect for the braai and hearty dishes.

Always keep a couple of bottles in the wine rack for the next occasion,” was his advice.

Vegan-friendly, the wine is also a good partner to dishes featuring mushrooms – an ingredient Delheim has also become famous for.

The estate is a prominent educator on edible fungi through its curated foraging excursions in the farm’s forests on the slopes of the Simonsberg. In fact, mushroom mania returns to Delheim in autumn and winter with sumptuous mushroom-inspired recipes on the menu at the estate’s Garden Restaurant.

The annual forage this year – available exclusively to Delheim Wine Club members – is scheduled for June 15 and 16 (weather permitting), and booking is required.

HOMEMADE GNOCCHI WITH PORCINI MUSHROOM SAUCE

Serves 2 - 4

Gnocchi ingredients 2 cups of mash potatoes 1 cup flour 1 egg yolk Salt and pepper 15ml olive oil and 15ml butter to fry the gnocchi Sauce ingredients 80g dried porcini mushrooms 250g mixed mushrooms (whatever is available) 1 onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup cream 1 cup vegetable stock ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Pepper to taste 3 cloves garlic, minced Fresh basil to serve with Method for the sauce: 1 Place the porcini mushrooms in a medium bowl. Pour the hot stock over the mushrooms and let them soak for 15 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid.

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2 Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, mushrooms and porcini. Cook until the mushrooms are soft, but not browned, about five minutes. Add the garlic. Cook for about two minutes.

3 Add the cream and reserved stock to the sauté pan and increase the heat until the mixture begins to boil. Simmer until thickened, about 5 - 10 minutes. Season to taste. Add the parmesan cheese and serve with fresh basil.

Method for the Gnocchi: 1 Mix the mash potato, egg, flour and salt until a dough is formed. Sprinkle some flour on your working surface.

Place the mixture onto the working surface and roll into a long sausage 3cm thick. Cut into 2cm pieces and press them slightly with the back of a fork.

Bring a pot of water to the boil and place the gnocchi gently into the boiling water.

Let them boil until they float on top of the water. Strain them.

2 Heat the olive oil and butter in a pan and fry the gnocchi until golden brown.

3 Serve with the Porcini sauce, some Parmesan cheese and fresh basil.

COCKTAILS FOR WORLD WHISKY DAY

CHICKEN PIE WITH PORCINI AND ESPRESSO SAUCE

Serve 4-6

Chicken pie ingredients 45ml butter 250g brown mushrooms 3 leeks, cut into rings 1 whole cooked chicken, taken off the bones and cut into pieces ½ cup cream ½ cup chicken stock Salt and pepper 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves 6 sheets of phyllo Porcini sauce 80g dried porcini mushrooms 80ml boiling water 250ml cream 40ml espresso coffee Salt and pepper Method for the pie: Pre-heat oven to 200°C. Melt the butter in a saucepan and fry the mushrooms and leeks.

Add the chicken, thyme, chicken stock and cream. Simmer until the sauce has thickened.

Season with salt and pepper. Let the filling cool down. Place two sheets of phyllo next to each other with a 4cm overlap and brush with olive oil. Place the rest of the sheets on top in the same manner. Place the filling 5cm from the end in the form of a sausage and roll up.

Place the chicken sausage in a donut form in a baking dish that has been brushed with butter or Spray & Cook. Brush with some olive oil and bake for 18 - 20min until golden brown.

Method for the sauce: 1 Soak the porcini in boiling water for 10 minutes.

2 Place the soaked porcinis with the water in a saucepan, add the cream and let it boil until reduced by half.

3 add the coffee and season with salt and pepper. Blend until smooth.

May 18 is a day to circle on the calendar. That is the day designated as World Whisky Day. Since the May Day coincides with winter in the southern hemisphere, it seems entirely appropriate to spice things up a bit and add a warming, ginger note to the drink.

Three Ships Whisky 5-Year-Old Premium Select, crafted at The James Sedgwick Distillery in Wellington, is a brilliant base for making easy, uncomplicated yet delicious cocktails.

The whisky is a blend of grain and malt distilled in both column and pot stills. Inspired by the iconic Islay malts, this smoky, yet fruity whisky is matured for a minimum of five years in hand-selected American oak casks before being blended and bottled.

It’s robust with aromatic smoke, crisp oak and shortbread on the nose. Ripe pears with a spiciness in the background and a powerful peatiness that fills the mouth and leads to an exceptionally smooth and lingering peaty finish.

GINGER WHIP 25ml Three Ships Whisky 5-Year-Old Premium Select 200ml Ginger Beer 3 drops of Bitters Simply pour the ingredients together, add large blocks of ice and a mint sprig and enjoy!

Or you could keep it simple and unaffected – but still delicious – with this suggestion from Monkey Shoulder, the blended malt whisky.

As their marketing blurb states: ”There really are no rules when it comes to drinking Monkey Shoulder, except to have the most fun possible.”

They recommend a combination of scotch and soda topped with an orange wedge as the ideal homage to World Whisky Day – easy to make, and fun to drink.

MONKEY SPLASH 30ml Monkey Shoulder whisky 45ml soda water Orange wedge Pour Monkey Shoulder into a rocks glass.

Add ice. Top with soda. Garnish with an orange wedge.

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RATTLESNAKE & RISOTTO Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with summer – but also drinks surprisingly well when the days get cooler, say the folks from Constantia’s Steenberg wine estate.

The property’s newly released 2018 vintage Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc they believe “is the ultimate nuanced wine with a rich and creamy mouthfeel that is both comforting and expressive of its singular cool climate origins”.

Unlike most Sauvignons it is lightly wooded – and means that Steenberg now has three different expressions of the crisp and tangy grape.

With its taste flashes of citrus and spicy acidity set against the creamy texture it’s a wine which can handle winter – and rich foods too.

Which is why Steenberg Executive Chef Kerry Kilpin created an equally nurturing risotto dish. Made with a generous splash of Steenberg Rattlesnake, her artichoke, pea and chevin risotto is comfort food made even more enjoyable when paired with a glass or two of this warming, voluptuous Sauvignon Blanc.

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ARTICHOKE, PEA & CHEVIN RISOTTO

Ingredients: 300ml good chicken or vegetable stock Boiling water Olive oil 1 tsp chopped garlic 1 onion chopped 120g Arborio rice 1 tin artichokes drained and chopped 90ml Steenberg Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc 100g grated parmesan cheese 50g butter 100g peas 5g chopped basil 5g chopped parsley 1 log goats’ chevin

Rattlesnake was one of the British vessels which saw action in the Battle of Muizenberg in 1795.

Method: 1 Heat the stock in a pot to a simmer.

2 In a second pot, sweat the onions and garlic in a little olive oil for three minutes without colouring. Add the rice and chopped artichokes and cook for a further two minutes or until the rice starts to become slightly translucent on the edges. Add the wine and stir until the rice thickens and half the wine has evaporated.

3 Turn the heat down, gradually add the stock ladle by ladle.

Stir occasionally. As the rice thickens up add more stock, you do not want it to get too thick. Cook for 15 – 20 minutes until the rice is cooked.

(The grains should be white in colour but have a firm centre).

4 Add the butter, peas, herbs and parmesan. Season to taste.

If you find the rice is a bit thick, thin it down with a bit of stock or boiling water if you have used all your stock.

5 To serve, crumble the goats’ chevin over the top and enjoy with a glass of Steenberg Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc.

SQUASH SOUP

Ingredients: 2 Tbsps unsalted butter 2 large leeks, thinly sliced, white and pale green parts only ±1kg butternut (or pumpkin) ±1litre chicken stock 2 cups water 2 Tbsps. brown sugar 1 tsp salt ¾ tsp finely ground black pepper ¼ cup cream 2 Tbsps. Angostura aromatic bitters

BITTER GASTRONOMY We think of taste as being exclusive to our tongues but scientists will state that much of what we “taste” is a result of the brain interpreting what we smell as we chew mouthfuls of food. Aroma plays a massive role in what we taste.

For more than a century aromatic bitters have been a key ingredient in drinks and bars. But it’s now stepping over the bar counter and being found increasingly in kitchens with chefs exploring what’s possible – foodwise – with this well-known product.

Starters, mains and even desserts can be enhanced with the judicious shake of a few drops of something like Angostura bitters, now available locally in more than one flavour variant. Previously, chefs and home cooks would have had to rely on fresh herbs to supply the right taste for whatever they were preparing.

In Trinidad and Tobago where Angostura bitters is made, bitters are frequently added to breads, marinades and soups. Angostura even released a recipe book way back in 1960, called The Secret of Good Taste. Many of the original recipes can be found on the Angostura bitters website at www.angosturabitters.com.

As a “taster” here are two recipes from American chefs, David Baudek of The Kerryman Bar in Chicago and Michael Ring, a Coopers Craft Bourbon ambassador.

Method: 1 Peel and seed the butternut or pumpkin squash, then cut it into two-inch chunks.

2 Melt butter in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Stir in leeks and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are translucent.

3 Stir in squash, stock, water, bitters, sugar, salt, and pepper.

Bring to the boil. Cook soup, uncovered, until squash is tender.

4 Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5 To serve, drizzle with cream and a dash of additional bitters.

STEAK MARINADE

Ingredients: 60ml bourbon ¼ cup brown sugar ¼ cup orange juice 1 Tbsp. cherry jam 1 Tbsp. fresh ginger, minced 1 tsp cracked black pepper 1 tsp tamari 1 Tblsp fresh garlic, minced 1 tsp Angostura aromatic bitters

Method: Mix ingredients and soak steak for a minimum of three hours or overnight. Keep refrigerated.

Cook the steak as per normal.

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B O O K G I V E AWAY

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P L AT E

MULTI-SENSORY

OVERLOAD A REAL COOK’S COOK RATHER THAN A STUFFY CHEF, IS HOW MARLENE VAN DER WESTHUIZEN, COULD BE DESCRIBED. HER STYLE OF CUISINE IS ALL ABOUT AUTHENTICITY AND REALITY – VISITING MARKETS AND MAKING THE MOST OF EITHER FRESH PRODUCE OR EVEN STORE CUPBOARD STAPLES. HER LATEST BOOK PLATE IS A RARE PLEASURE TO READ.

O

ne thing that comes through strongly in all of Marlene van der Westhuizen’s books is that food is not just about flavour; it’s about place, people, a sense of occasion, of tradition, of enjoyment.

They are written by a woman who revels in food and food tradition and shares that passion enthusiastically.

“Food, friendship and a glass of excellent wine are, for me, the most important ingredients of a life worth living,” she states on her website.

And this diminutive Cape Town cook lives her philosophy, splitting her time between her home in Green Point and an old stone cottage in Charroux in France – a place where she wakes up to the smell of mustard being made and visits brocante markets on weekends.

Anyone who has paged through one of Marlene van der Westhuizen’s seven exquisitely photographed books will know the easy, effortlessly evocative style of her writing – and the fool proof recipes she shares.

She has tried them, tested them and refined them. They work!

The images are as evocative as Van der Westhuizen’s writing, making it almost possible to smell the roasted peaches or herb-spiked roasted lamb...

Unlike some of her other books like Delectable, Sumptuous, Abundance or even Lazy Lunches, Plate is about one dish – the main meal of the day, whether it be Thursday night’s supper for the family

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or a Saturday night or Sunday lunch gathering with friends. With the book comprising just three chapters (Meat, Poultry and Seafood), it’s all about simplicity and flavour.

Quality ingredients are nonnegotiable and if they can be sourced from a local market or greengrocer, ethical butcher or fishmonger, even better.

This book is an easy read: you can page through it, plan meals ahead or even send it to someone as a gift. It will never go out of style or grow old. It’s timeless, elegant and a classic.

CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED LEMONS AND GREEN OLIVES

Also known as Djaj Mqualli in Morocco, this is a flavour bomb of a dish. I love serving it in winter with heaps of couscous that I rubbed between my hands to make it just the right kind of fluffy!

(For 6) 1.5kg free-range chicken drumsticks and wings Coarse salt 50ml good olive oil 90ml butter 2 large red onions, diced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2.5ml saffron threads, soaked in hot water 4 bay leaves 5ml grated fresh ginger 2.5ml ground cinnamon

1.25ml chopped fresh chilli 5ml paprika 250ml water 40 depipped green olives 30ml lemon juice 30ml chopped fresh flatleaf parsley Rind of one preserved lemon, thinly sliced into strips 1 Rub the chicken with the coarse salt and let it rest for one hour. Rinse well, then dry with kitchen paper.

2 Heat the olive oil and butter in a large casserole dish, add the chicken pieces and brown lightly on all sides.

Add the onions, garlic, saffron, bay leaves, ginger, cinnamon, chilli, paprika and water. Cover the casserole dish and simmer over a very gentle heat for at least one hour. Add the olives after 40 minutes, cover again and cook until the chicken is tender. You can add a little more water whenever necessary.

3 Remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon, arrange on a large platter and keep warm.

Add the lemon juice to the pan liquids, heat until slightly reduced then pour over the chicken. Toss the chopped parsley with the lemon strips and spoon over the chicken.

4 Serve with couscous.

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B O O K G I V E AWAY

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P L AT E

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

Although Beef Bourguignon is very tasty, the meat can be dry. The secret to moist, tender morsels of wine-soaked beef is to leave the meat on the bone until the end of the cooking process, and to allow sufficient marinating time. A cut of beef with plenty of connective tissue to dissolve during cooking, such as good, old-fashioned stewing chuck on the bone is best.

(For 8) 2kg beef chuck, on the bone 45ml good olive oil 500g bacon, diced 6 cloves garlic, peeled but whole 500ml beef stock 500g baby onions 2 carrots, sliced into circles Salt and pepper 50g butter 500g small button mushrooms A handful fresh parsley, chopped Zest of 1 lemon, grated

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MARINADE 2 x 750ml bottles red wine 30ml good olive oil 1 brown onion, chopped 2 carrots, sliced into circles 1 bouquet garni with parsley, thyme, rosemary and bay leaves 8 cloves garlic, peeled but whole 4 whole cloves 8 black peppercorns 8 juniper berries 1 To prepare the marinade, pour the wine into a large pot, then add the olive oil, onion, carrots, bouquet garni, garlic, whole cloves, peppercorns and juniper berries.

Bring to a slow boil and simmer until the alcohol in the wine has evaporated (about 10 minutes). Switch off the heat and allow the marinade to cool completely. Strain, discarding the bits and pieces.

2 Place the beef in a bowl (with an air-tight lid) and pour the marinade over to cover it completely. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 day.

3 Remove the meat from the marinade and pat it dry. Reserve the marinade for later use.

4 Heat the oil in a large pot. Braise the beef until the fat starts to run a little and the meat is slightly browned. Add the bacon and braise with the beef. Add the garlic and the stock, along with the reserved marinade and bring all to a gentle, rolling boil. Cover and leave to simmer for two to three hours, then test the meat with a skewer – it should be completely tender.

5 Remove the beef from the pot and let it cool a little before deboning. Slice the beef into nuggets and set aside.

6 Add the onions and carrots to the liquid in the pot and cook gently until it has reduced to a rich, thick sauce. Add the beef to the sauce, season to taste and reheat it. Spoon the meat and sauce into a serving dish.

7 While the sauce is reducing, melt the butter in a small pan and allow it to become quite brown before you add the mushrooms. Caramelise the mushrooms and spoon over the beef bourguignon once you’ve placed it in a serving dish.

8 Garnish with the parsley and lemon zest and serve with crusty bread and a glass of pinot noir.

KINGKLIP WITH CAPERS

A plate of food so delicious that I can still taste it – many a day I would arrive home from school to this. (For 6) 1.2kg kingklip, sliced into 6 portions 15ml cake flour Salt and white pepper to taste 30ml vegetable oil 60ml butter Juice of 1 lemon 15ml Worcestershire sauce 30ml capers 150g button mushrooms 30ml chopped fresh parsley 1 Pat the kingklip fillets dry with kitchen paper and toss them gently in a mixture of the flour, salt and pepper.

2 Heat the oil and half of the butter in a large frying pan. Fry the fish for about three minutes on each side until it is perfectly cooked. Lift the fish fillets with a slotted spoon from the pan to a serving dish and keep warm.

3 Deglaze the pan with the lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce, add the capers and cook together for a few minutes.

4 In a smaller pan, melt the rest of the butter over a high heat and quickly stir-fry the mushrooms until they are caramelised. Toss them into the pan with the caper sauce. Add the parsley and spoon the sauce over the warm kingklip.

Serve immediately.

WIN

WIN A COPY OF PLATE See T&C’s on pg 04 To qualify, send an e-mail or a postcard clearly marked Cheers Book Giveaway and containing your name, ID number, physical address (not a PO Box please!) along with a contact telephone number to qualify for the lucky draw.

ADDRESS: cheers@cheersmag.co.za or Cheers, PO Box 259, Rondebosch 7701. ENTRY DEADLINE: 15TH JUNE

LIKE us on www.facebook.com/ CheersMag to double your chance of winning.

“Food, friendship and a glass of excellent wine are, for me, the most important ingredients of a life worth living.”

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TUISNYWERHEID |

EMILE JOUBERT

KERRIE

SOOS DIE BOERE KAN

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Emile Joubert is a PR practitioner by profession, but a food and wine enthusiast by desire.

Check out his blog: www.winegoggle.co.za

SPESERYE HET TOT DIE ONTDEKKING VAN NUWE WÊRELDE GELEI EN NASIONALE KOOKWYSE VERANDER. ONS AS SUID-AFRIKANERS HET OOK SPESERYE TE DANKE VIR ONS ONTSTAAN HIER AAN DIE SUIDELIKE PUNT VAN AFRIKA. EN KERRIE: MALEIS OF INDIES, SONDER SPESERYE WERK DIT NIE.

D

aar was onlangs ’n gefladder en ’n gestik in teekoppies toe dit bekend gemaak is dat kerrie nou meer verteenwoordigend van – en gewilder – in Brittanje is as daardie nasie se geliefde vis-en-tjips.

Vir ’n kerrie-verslaafde soos ek was dit geen verrassing nie, veral aangesien die Engelse se kookvernuf oor die algemeen vir enige skool-koshuismoeder na Julia Child laat lyk.

Die lekkerste vir my is dat geen kerrie ooit dieselfde proe nie. Jy kan botterhoender by ses restaurante bestel, en elke liewe een sal anders smaak danksy die buigsame verhouding wat die sjef met sy of haar speserye en gaarmaakmetode het.

Ek het as spruit in dieselfde straat as vier Indiese gesinne wie almal dahl (lensiekerrie) gemaak het. Nodeloos om te sê, mevrou Singh se gereg het heeltemal anders gelyk, geruik en geproe as mevrou Patel s’n.

Danksy Suid-Afrikaners se liefde vir kerrie en die wondere van kulturele osmose, het die Boerekerrie ontstaan.

Nee, die belang van speserye en vleis en ’n deeglike kooktegniek is nie afgeskeep nie. Daar het net ’n paar ekstra lekkerstes bygekom om die kerrie te maak aanpas by dinge waarvan ons palette hou. En dis ’n soetigheid saam met die speserye.

Dus, dames en here, word die kulturele kleinood van appelkooskonfyt – die fyn soort – gevind in onse kerries.

Die soetsuur smaak bind ongelooflik goed saam met die speserye van die kerriepoeier. En die ander byvoegsel is iets so Suid-Afrikaans soos Peppermint Crisps en gehekelde doilies, naamlik Mrs Ball’s Chutney. Hy word nie in die kookproses gebruik nie, maar mildelik bygevoeg tot die eindproduk.

Maar voor my mond te erg begin water, hiermee ’n resep vir boerekerrie:

500 g droë, groot witbone, oornag geweek óf 3 tot 4 blikke botterbone as jy nie tyd het om oornag te week nie sonneblomolie 8 stukke lamsnek 8 stukke kort lamsribbetjie 2 uie, fyngekap 20 ml matige kerriepoeier – Rajah of enige kommersiële handelsmerk 30 ml borrie 15 ml fyn appelkooskonfyt 8 middelslag-aartappels, geskil sout en vars gemaalde swartpeper 1 Plaas die bone in ’n groot kastrol en tap koue water in tot die bone bedek is. Maak toe met ’n deksel en bring tot kookpunt. Skakel die plaat onmiddellik af en laat staan die bone oornag in die water. Verhit ’n bietjie sonneblomolie in ’n oondkastrol en braai die lamsnek en ribbetjie oor stadige hitte tot mooi bruin. Verhit die oond tot 180 °C. Voeg die gekapte ui

by die vleis en braai vir 10 minute. Plaas die kastrol vir ’n uur in die oond sodat die vleis sag word.

2 Skakel intussen weer die plaat aan en kook die bone tot sag. Haal die kastrol met die vleis uit die oond en voeg die kerriepoeier, borrie en appelkooskonfyt by. Geur met sout en swartpeper.

3 Dreineer die bone en voeg saam met die geskilde aartappels by die vleis. Voeg ’n koppie water by. Meng deur en plaas terug in die oond. Laat die kerrie vir minstens nog twee uur in die oond. Jy kan die temperatuur verlaag na 160 °C en die kerrie stadig kook. Hou dop en indien nodig, kan jy nog water byvoeg.

4 Wanneer als klaar en reg is, laat staan vir so 30 minute om die geure kans te geen om te trou. Bedien dan op rys en met Mrs Ball’s se blatjang. As jy regtig in ’n Indiese bui is, trek ’n sari aan en maak ’n slaai van fyngekapte tamaties en uie om saam met jou kerrie te eet.

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T E R E S A U LYA T E

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B LO G S P OT

SOUP AND SWEET TREATS THERE’S NO DENYING REALITY: WINTER IS HERE … AND NOT IN A GAME OF THRONES KINDA WAY EITHER! IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR WE ALL RETREAT TO THE KITCHEN AND MAKE HEARTIER, RICHER FOOD – SOUPS, STEWS AND RICHLY FLAVOURFUL DISHES.

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he first time I was offered sweet potato wedges at the dinner table I promptly refused them! But I was only a child and had no idea just how deliciously tasty they could be.

Fast forward a few decades and I find myself eating sweet potatoes several times a week (usually roasted) and experiencing feelings of panic when I have run out of them. They’re remarkably versatile and can be baked, steamed, fried and boiled as well as roasted. In fact, sweet potatoes are not only versatile in terms of what you can make with them and how they’re cooked, but they’re also rich in fibre, high in anti-oxidants and also packed with healthy B vitamins and a really good source of vitamin A which is necessary for good sight.

I must confess that I don’t reserve this sweet potato soup exclusively for the colder months.

It might have something to do with my love for soup, my aforementioned obsession with sweet potatoes, or simply that this creamy and thick soup recipe is one of my favourites! I do hope you love it as much as I do. Sprinkle it with some fresh coriander and serve with toasted sourdough slices for the perfect warming meal.

And what’s a winter meal without a sweet treat at the end?

These baked caramel puddings are filled with mixed dried fruit – in other words all the fruit that we can’t buy fresh and in season at the moment. In fact, I almost called these “summer in winter puddings”!

Once baked the puddings are doused in a caramel soaking sauce before serving, which is absolutely as good as it sounds. I have added a touch of coffee to the puddings, and while the flavour may not be that obvious it does add depth and richness to the overall dish.

Enjoy!

SWEET POTATO SOUP Serves 10-12 10ml (2 tsp) olive oil 1 onion, chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 5ml (1 tsp) paprika 5ml (1 tsp) cumin 2.5ml (½ tsp) turmeric 5ml (1 tsp) crushed garlic 5ml (1 tsp) crushed ginger 125ml (½ cup) marsala wine (sherry or even muscadel can be substituted) 800g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes 30ml (2 Tbsp) peanut butter 1 litre vegetable stock Salt and pepper Fresh coriander, chopped to serve Toasted sourdough bread to serve (optional)

Teresa Ulyate is a multi-tasking working mom who juggles a job, children and a blog cupcakesandcouscous.com

1 Heat the olive oil in a large pot over a medium heat. Add the onion and carrots and sauté for a few minutes.

2 Add the paprika, cumin, turmeric, garlic and ginger. Sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the marsala wine.

3 Add the sweet potato and the peanut butter. Stir well to coat the potato in the spices. Leave to cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring regularly.

4 Add the vegetable stock. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potato cubes are cooked through.

5 Take the pot off the heat and allow the soup to cool. Blitz in a food processor until smooth. Check the seasoning.

6 Reheat at serving time. Sprinkle with coriander and serve with toasted sourdough.

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B LO G S P O T | T E R E S A U LYAT E

I almost called these “summer in winter puddings!”

FRUITY CARAMEL PUDDINGS Serves 4 FOR THE PUDDINGS:

100g mixed dried fruit 60g butter 100ml light brown sugar 1 large egg 5ml (1 tsp) vanilla extract 5ml (1 tsp) instant coffee 15ml (1 Tbsp) warm water 80ml (1/3 cup) milk 150ml flour 7.5ml (1½ tsp) baking powder Pinch of salt 15ml (1 Tbsp) flour, for dusting the fruit Cream or custard to serve (optional) 50 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE:

125ml (½ cup) cream 30g butter 50ml light brown sugar 15ml (1 Tbsp) honey 2.5ml (½ tsp) vanilla extract 1 Preheat your oven to 180ºC. Lightly grease four 200ml ramekins.

2 Place the dried fruit in a small bowl.

Cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 15 minutes. Drain and chop the fruit up finely. Set aside.

3 Cream the butter and sugar together until combined and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla extract and whisk again to combine.

Stir the coffee into the warm water to dissolve. Add to the mixture with the milk and stir.

4 Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into the bowl and mix in.

5 Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of flour over the dried fruit. Toss gently to coat then fold the fruit into the batter.

6 Divide the batter between the ramekins.

Bake for 30 minutes or until an inserted skewer comes out clean.

7 Prepare the caramel sauce during the last few minutes of baking time. Place the cream, butter, sugar, honey and vanilla extract in a small saucepan. Stir over a low heat to dissolve the sugar. Let the syrup bubble gently for 2-3 minutes.

8 Take the puddings out of the oven and poke holes all over them. Slowly pour the hot caramel syrup over the puddings.

Leave to stand for a few minutes before serving with cream or custard.

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HOT NEWS

JAZZY DELIGHTS AT DELHEIM

Winter will have the country firmly in its grip by June – which is coincidentally when Stellenbosch wine estate Delheim kicks off its popular Sunday Jazz & Fondue events.

The first session is set for June 23 and will be held in the downstairs tasting cellar which is suitably intimate and snug – especially when there’s a pot of gooey, melted cheese to dip into with a glass or two of wine alongside. The live music will be provided by the Cape Town Music Academy NPC and Jazz in the Native Yards.

“The Jazz & Fondue series is a wonderful initiative that not only gives our jazz musicians a platform to perform but also exposes local and international guests to recognise and enjoy the great local music talent that South Africa has to offer,” said Cape Town Music Academy programme manager Vicky Davis.

Jazz in the Native Yards is a travelling live jazz gig that promotes jazz performance and listenership across the Western Cape including townships, cultural centres and festivals.

The fat sounds of jazz giants like Winston Mankunku Ngozi, Robbie Jansen and Chris McGregor will be relived through a spectrum of jazz musicians. In the mix will be some “pata pata” from Sima Mashazi who with Schalk Joubert wowed the crowds at the most recent Woordfees festival in Stellenbosch.

Also in the line-up is Thembelihle Dunjana, a young jazz pianist hailing from Gugulethu who started playing the piano at the age of 11. Her passion for jazz grew during her high school years at Bergvliet High and she ultimately ended up at the UCT College of Music where she graduated with a B. Music degree.

Reservations are required and can be done online through Quicket. Entry includes glühwein on arrival, the music and fondue (with bread and vegetables).

Note that all starters, meats and desserts will be charged extra. Wines will be on sale by the bottle or glass. Each lunchtime show runs from noon to 15h00.

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DISTELL A WORLD BEATER

At the Whisky Magazine recent Icons of Whisky 2019 awards held in London recently, South Africa’s wine, cider and spirit producer Distell was announced as Distiller of the Year, beating out Brown Forman, Irish Distillers and the Edrington group for this singular honour.

As its website states: “The Icons of Whisky Awards are a celebration of the years of hard work that go into every bottle.

From distillers, still makers and coopers, to warehouse staff and visitor centre managers – a great deal of craftsmanship, skill and knowledge are imparted at each stage of the process.”

The whisky brands which make up Distell’s powerful and critically acclaimed portfolio include the proudly South African Three Ships range, Bain’s Cape Mountain whisky, as well as its Scottish portfolio of Bunnahabhain, Deanston, Scottish Leader and Black Bottle.

As James Sedgwick master distiller Andy Watts said, “It’s an amazing whisky portfolio.”

It was also announced that a number of Distell whiskies had also been recognised in the first round of the – separate – World Whisky Awards for 2019. Is more silverware going to go into the trophy cabinet in Stellenbosch? Time will tell.

IT’S SHOWTIME!

KwaZulu-Natalians are the first patrons to enjoy the winederful variety that is the TOPS at SPAR Wine Show when the ringmaster pulls aside the curtains at the Suncoast Casino in Durban on 9 to 11 May. Graham Beck will be popping corks aplenty to allow people to sample their Méthode Cap Classique sparkling wine, but then there are also Ken Forrester Wines, heavy hitters and Pinotage pioneers Kanonkop, pocket friendly and ever improving Orange River Cellars, Slanghoek and Raka. Those tasters are just for starters! There are gins and craft beers available for tasting as well.

The action then moves north to Montecasino in the City of Gold where winelovers get their chance to sip, swirl and spit – purely optional – between June 6 and 8. Babylonstoren, Cape Chamonix, , Dalla Cia, Elgin Vintners, Kunjani Wines ... almost every letter of the alphabet through to Z for Zorgvliet will be exhibiting in Johannesburg.

Tickets are available through Quicket and can be booked online at www.wineshow.co.za. A variety of different ticket options are available so if styling in a cordoned off VIP area like a rock star is your thing, TOPS at SPAR have you covered!

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SWEET SIXTEEN FOR ‘WACKY’

It’s been 16 years since the wine farmers of the Robertson area banded together and offered a festival unlike any other in the country: the Wacky Wine Weekend.

It’s been emulated by many but still remains THE most fun, cheerful and enjoyable wine festival on the annual calendar – which is quite something because it takes place smack dab in the middle of winter!

What sets Robertson’s Wacky wine Weekend apart is the variety of events and attractions on offer. There is something for everyone: young and old, families or singletons, novices or geeks, sports enthusiasts or couch potatoes.

The weekend of the 7th to 9th of June is when the 16th staging of this takes place, in and around Robertson, McGregor, Bonnievale and Ashton.

Book your accommodation in time and be sure to make your way to the lush Robertson Wine Valley, the perfect country escape, being a mere two hours from Cape Town on the famous Route 62.

During the course of the weekend festivalgoers can visit any of the 30 different wineries and tourism venues which have thrown their doors open – places like Van Loveren, Viljoensdrift, Bon Courage, Weltevrede, Graham Beck, De Wetshof, Zandvliet, Robertson Winery – or Springfield for fantastic Sauvignon Blanc.

(Insider tip: try their newlyreleased Albariño for something distinctly different.)

Note that there is a zero tolerance policy with regard to drinking and driving. Organisers have pointed out that many transport options are available and festivalgoers are advised to make use of them.

Weekend pass tickets are available with a new ticketing partner, Howler, at www.howler. co.za. Kids under 18 enter for free.

Visit the festival website www.wackywineweekend. com for the programme on what each participating winery and tourism establishment will showcase over the course of the weekend, to tailor made your own weekend escapade.

For additional information, contact the Robertson Wine Valley office on 023 626 3167, admin@robertsonwinevalley.com or www.robertsonwinevalley.com.

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RAISING THE BAR

Lifting standards, improving skills and equipping customers and patrons with more knowledge and appreciation for cocktails is the task which Justin Shaw has set himself – and his team at Cape Town’s Cause + Effect.

This edgy establishment, which is soon to relocate from its Tamboerskloof digs to new premises in the V&A Waterfront, labels itself as an ‘Experiential cocktail kitchen and brandy bar’. And it just been recognised in the annual BAR awards as the country’s Cocktail Bar Of The Year.

Shaw was more pleased that Cause + Effect won the Best Bar Team Of the Year because he said it showed the depth of talent the group shared. “We want our customers to become more and more demanding when it comes to cocktails because that forces us to up the bar and keep on innovating and stretching ourselves.”

Nominations come from within the hospitality, food and beverage and spirit industry, as does the judging in each awards category. South Africa’s current Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year, drinks consultant, and BAR Awards founder, Travis Kuhn said the intention was to acknowledge brands and mixologists that make the SA cocktail industry a contender on the global stage. “The BAR Awards is a celebration of each and every person and brand in the industry who make meaningful contributions to the trade,” he said, “but even bigger congratulations must go to those who have stood out enough to receive special recognition as voted for by their peers.”

ADDITIONAL AWARDS WERE: International Footprint Award - Sumaiyah Connolly and Travis Kuhn Bartender Newcomer of the Year - Alecs Besier and Nkuli Khanyile Social Media Award - Peter Lebese High-Volume Cocktail Bar of the Year - The House of Machines Hotel Bar of the Year - Bascule Bar, Cape Grace Mobile Bar Operator of the Year - Molecular Bars Media Contributor of the Year - Leah van Deventer Pop Up Bar of the Year - The Polynesian Pearl Diver Mentor of the Year - Cassandra Eichhoff Brand Campaign of the Year - Diageo World Class Best New Cocktail Bar - The Art of Duplicity Bartenders Brand of the Year - Bulleit Bourbon Cocktail Bar of the Year - Cause Effect Cocktail Kitchen Brand Ambassador of the Year - Caitlin Hill (Remy Cointreau) and Jody Francis (Inverroche) Bartender of the Year - Travis Kuhn

OVERBERG SEASONAL FARE It’s back to the culinary “drawing board” for Gabriëlskloof Restaurant, just 80 minutes drive from Cape town, come the month of May when the popular Overberg destination switches its traditional à la carte offering to a hearty Blackboard Menu for winter delights.

This is the perfect time to join the throng of diners-in-the-know who make a beeline for the winelands eatery that’s famous for generous country-style hospitality and all-round good fare.

The restaurant occupies a wing of the celebrated hilltop winery and has views of the surrounding valley and a large fireplace that’s well utilised on cold days.

The new winter menu runs until the end of August, curated in the tasty style for which chef Frans Groenewald is renowned. Dishes change daily, ensuring that the menu stays interesting, no matter how regularly people visit.

Groenewald looked to the region for his latest inspiration. “To me, the Overberg is about community and collaboration, natural beauty and harmony. I love coming to work and driving through a landscape that gives

me peace and makes me curious at the same time,” he said.

“Even a cursory visitor will see its charm. Within just a short drive, you can see sun, sea, mountains, sheep, gatherings of endangered blue cranes and sprawling fields.”

“We’ll be punting plant-based dishes, not exclusively of course. But I’d like to show that vegetarian options can be wholesome and satisfying – even with the winter chill about,” Groenewald said.

Expect dishes such as crispy pork belly, roasts, chick pea-and-lentil salad or chick pea-and lentil-bolognese, big casseroles, soups, grilled trout, wheat risotto or curried wheat salad. On the sweeter side, diners can look forward to treats like chocolate fondant, chocolate mousse, the traditional decadence souskluitjies and milk tart tiramisu. The foodie spectacle steps up a notch on Sundays when, in addition to the Blackboard Menu, the Gabriëlskloof Restaurant presents a set five-course menu.

For reservations, call 028 284 9865 or email restaurant@gabriëlskloof.co.za.

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THINGAMAJIGS |

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THINKING OF YOU...

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TOLKIEN’S GOLLUM CHARACTER FROM LORD OF THE RINGS AND THE HOBBIT LIKED SHINY THINGS - ESPECIALLY THE “PRECIOUS” RING! THERE MIGHT NOT BE A RING BUT THERE ARE A FEW IDEAS FOR PRECIOUS THINGS...

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FOLD OUT TECH POCKET , R195, www.bigblue.co.za SUPERDAD ORIGINAL SUPERHERO MUG, R125, www.mantality.co.za 3 COMPACT MIRROR - HAVANA , R95, www.bigblue.co.za 4 POLAROID FRAME , R165, www.hellopretty.co.za 5 STAINLESS STEEL HIPFLASK GIFT SET (265ML) , R149, www.mantality.co.za 6 ANIMAL PRINT SOCKS , R150, www.bigblue.co.za 7 FLIP UP SUNNIES CASE LEMON , R110, www.aplacetoshop.co.za 8 BATH BOMB MACAROON , R65, www.aplacetoshop.co.za 9 NO. 1 DAD KEYRING, R45, www.hellopretty.co.za 10 CUBE COLOUR 14 SELF-WATERING PLANTER , R199, www.yuppiechef.com

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S PA R G O O D L I V I N G

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RISE

& SHINE

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“BREAKFAST IS THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY,” OUR GRANDMOTHERS TOLD US. AND THEY WERE RIGHT! STARTING OUT ON EGG AND BACON, A GOOD CUP OF COFFEE OR A HEALTHY BRAN MUFFIN WILL STAVE OFF THE MID-MORNING MUNCHIES FOR SURE. SPAR GOOD LIVING AND SPAR BRANDS HAVE YOUR BREAKFAST ESSENTIALS AVAILABLE.

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

SPAR Mini Pork Sausages 375g SPAR Free Range Eggs (Extra Large) Non-stick Square Egg Pan (12cm) Non-stick Mini Saucepan (14cm) Non-stick Pancake Pan (25cm) with spatula Non-stick Jumbo Muffin Pan (6 cup) Coffee Mug (fashion designs) SPAR Filter Coffee Mocha Java 250g Coffee Plunger (8 cup) Stainless Steel Vacuum Flask (1 litre)

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8 6

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FISHING

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TA R P O N

FEELING LIKE A SILVER

KING

EVERYONE HAS AN ELUSIVE DREAM, A BUCKET LIST WISH THAT THEY DESPERATELY WANT TO SEE REALISED. FOR KEEN ANGLER BRAD CARTWRIGHT IT WAS CATCHING A SILVER KING OR TARPON 58 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

ABOVE: With the Angolan coast just a few hundred metres offshore, Brad Cartwright’s rod bends as he hooks his dream fish.

I

t’s inexplicable. I have no idea why it has such a tenacious and sturdy grip on me – but there it is. I simply love fishing.

I am happy to sit on a rock and watch the water, looking at the way the wind ripples the surface, the whorls and eddies of the current, the tides and swell. I can contentedly whip a popper till my arms are screaming at the effort required, or try my hardest to land a delicate little fly on the spot.

For me it’s a primal instinct, not a race. Every time I go out I learn something about the fish, the world, my fellow fishermen but mostly about myself.

I’m utterly content to watch the piscatorial boffins casually discuss tactics and techniques whilst fighting massive fish, barely a beautifully coiffed hair out of place.

All while nonchalantly tossing in the Latin name of the species and distinguishing characteristics. Me? I just fish for the fun of it.

FOREIGN WATERS The last time I went to the Kwanza River in Angola, we fished for Tarpon on fly. It was a blast! I didn’t land a thing … Without proper teeth these wild and feisty fish suck their prey in rather than biting – and in my enthusiasm I kept pulling the damn fly out of their mouths before it had a chance to stick.

That was then. Recently I decided to return to Angola and give it another go. I’ve had recurring nightmares about those Silver Kings outfoxing me, along with the odd dream of actually landing one and swimming with it, before sending it back into the big blue to live and fight another day.

Via the fishing grapevine, I heard that Craig Thomassen had been invited back up to Angola and decided to crash his party, because if there’s fish around he’ll find them. He’s uncanny that way and I was hopeful that he may even allow me the chance to redeem myself with the fabled Angolan tarpon.

RIGHT: To photographers, the 60 minutes at sunrise and sunset are known as the ‘golden hour’ for obvious reason!

BELOW: Gloves are useful for protecting the hands when hauling in the last few metres of line once the fish is played out.

The Kwanza River is just short of 1 000km long – navigable for about 240km upstream from the mouth.

It holds over 50 species of fish and is remarkably beautiful and pristine, given that it’s a scant 70km from the bustling city of Luanda and its seven million inhabitants.

The “Poons”, as Tarpon are fondly

referred to the world over, were not nearly as active in the river as on our previous trip and although we did throw lures and soft plastics there, it was without much success, other than a good Cubera Snapper of around seven kilograms that Tommo the fish whisperer managed to entice to the hook.

“I’ve had recurring nightmares about those Silver Kings outfoxing me, along with the odd dream of actually landing one and swimming with it.”

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FISHING

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TA R P O N

“For another heartstopping 20 minutes we tussled, until finally the fish was alongside the boat.”

Basically, our best chance was to fish the colour line where the river flows into the sea using small live baits which were swum literally within meters of the boat. Tommo was kind enough to offer me the strike, having already landed his fair share of these prehistoric beauties.

Nothing can describe the

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physical rush I experienced when a giant slab of silver, estimated at 80kgs, burst out of the water – metres into the air – within what seemed like touching distance. It’s hard to imagine a more magnificent sight, especially for someone who has lusted and dreamed of this moment!

LEFT: Hitting the water alongside a tarpon before releasing it to fight another day was a dream come true.

BELOW: A fly rod and reel are all that’s needed to make many a fisherman’s heart beat faster.

Around 20 sweaty minutes later the fish was at the side of the boat. As I was about to realise my dream of swimming with this magnificent beast she gave one last head shake and a crimp on the terminal tackle gave way, sending her off into the salty blue.

Gutted is the word that comes to mind, but it was more than that. I genuinely wondered if I would ever have another opportunity.

Those thoughts must have been written all over my face because Tommo, seeing my desperation, magnanimously offered me another shot on our last day of the trip. Success! With only moments to spare, a fish of around 60kgs cleared the water, landing with a mighty splash and ripping line off the reel in a dash for freedom. For another heartstopping 20 minutes we tussled, until finally the fish was alongside the boat.

Well secured, I slipped over the side and into the water. The five minutes or so I spent with this behemoth of the deep, it’s huge eye seeming to be looking deep into my soul before it slipped back into the depths, will forever be etched into my memory.

In the end, that’s why I really love fishing.

WRITING

NOVEL IDEAS

W

riting a book is like deciding on which particular car you’d like to drive; suddenly everyone seems to have one. It’s not just that millions fantasise about producing the next bestseller – research conducted in 2011 found that 81% of all North Americans wanted to author a book – but also that the prevalence of self-publishing means it has never been easier to do. Before you hop on the book wagon however, consider the following.

One of the easiest things about writing a book is … writing it. I don’t say that glibly because I’d worked as a journalist for more than 30 years before my book – an animal story called Nicko, The Tale of a Vervet Monkey on an African Farm – was published in 2017. I say it since writing a book

I believe having fun should be the primary incentive of the endeavour.

is best done if you enjoy writing.

Why? Because I believe having fun should be the primary incentive of the endeavour.

IT’S NOT ABOUT THE MONEY

The hard truth about being a published author of a book is that, unless you are among the very few who strike it big, the rewards have little to do with money.

According to a study conducted by the University of London, one in 10 authors earn a living from writing alone. Most of us earn a living doing other things, whether journalism, business writing or jobs that don’t involve writing at all.

Even if, like me, you’re fortunate to be published by a traditional publisher (that is, you provide the words and the publisher takes care of everything else) versus self-publishing (whereby you write, and direct and pay for all other processes involved, including selling the book), royalties only become significant when you sell tens of thousands of copies. That’s not easy, particularly in a country like ours, which has a sadly small reading population.

| LIFESTYLE

YOU WANT TO WRITE A BOOK? GO FOR IT, SAYS PENNY HAW, BUT EDIT YOUR EXPECTATIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

GREATER REWARDS ABOVE: Putting the words tumbling around in your head on the computer screen or page of a notebook should be your primary objective – not the (potential...) reward.

Tell the story!

But, if money isn’t the motivator, why keep writing and hoping to be published? Once again, it’s about the fun. I loved writing Nicko. It’s based on the true story of my grandmother and her lifelong friendship with the monkey and a miscellany of other creatures in the KwaZulu-Natal mist lands. It’s one of my life stories and seeing it in book form is thrilling.

Rivalling the pleasure of writing it, is sharing the book with others. Watching animal lovers’ expressions as they learn about my grandmother’s deep affinity with animals and reading the adventures of Nicko and friends to them is the greatest reward I could have hoped for.

So, you want to write a book?

Do it, I say. But beware of selfpublishing companies who would like to bleed your bank account to make your wish come true. Do it because you love writing and want to share your story with others. Don’t give up your dream of creating the next Harry Potter, but don’t let that be the only reason for writing.

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N AT U R E |

CONNECTION

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FAMILY TIES PRIMATOLOGIST DIAN FOSSEY DIED FOR HER BELOVED GORILLAS. THROUGH HER EFFORTS, AND THOSE OF OTHERS LIKE HER, WE KNOW AND UNDERSTAND THESE LARGE CREATURES SO MUCH BETTER. JO BESTIC WAS FORTUNATE TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL.

M

ountain gorillas are sociable and gregarious, intelligent and curious. So much like the human group I trekked with on a mild October day. As it turns out, we share 98% of our DNA with these gentle, vegetarian giants (our nearest living relatives are bonobos, chimps, with whom we share 99% of our genetic makeup).

The imperilled mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringi) has recently been reclassified from Critically Endangered to ‘merely’ Endangered, thanks to intensive conservation efforts and supporting ecotourism projects.

Their numbers have increased to all of 1 004 individuals, living in the unique cloud forest habitat of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and the Virunga Massif, straddling the Democratic Republic of Congo’s Virunga, Rwanda’s Volcanoes and Uganda’s Mgahinga national parks.

Mountain gorillas are a subspecies of the Eastern gorilla, and live in groups led by one or more adult male silverbacks. Members comprise females, their young and

possibly other younger, inevitably grumpy males (blackbacks) not quite ready to challenge the silverback for leadership.

Our walking party of eight was allocated permits to trek to the Hirwa family in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. Visitors are permitted an hour with one group on a trek, which can take from just 45 minutes to several hours to reach ‘your’ family.

Besides our group’s impressive silverback, Mr Lucky (hirwa means ‘lucky’ in Kinyarwanda) –who spent the entire hour feeding and moving around on his own – we were lucky enough to have a youngster in the group. Shyly hanging back behind mom’s legs at first, her curiosity soon got the better of her and her exhibitionism had us open-mouthed with amusement and wonder.

I was enchanted by her acrobatics on the vines, and just like a baby, sticking her feet in her mouth and sucking her toes, or ambling over to drink from a trickling stream. Suddenly she stopped what she was doing and toddled over to me. Looking straight up into my face she reached out her arm and put her hand on my thigh. Not one of us dared breathe or move! All too quickly though she dashed back to mom’s ample tummy, and on she went with showing off.

While a group’s home range may cover up to 15 km2, their movement is limited to barely a kilometre on an average

day, so they do not compete with one another. With their diet of mostly foliage, including leaves, stems, pith and shoots, they live comfortably in habitat ranging from low-lying bamboo to cloud forest.

Looking straight up into my face she reached out her arm and put her hand on my thigh.

Thinking back now on this life-affirming encounter, and the privilege of observing a group of our close relatives quietly getting on with their family routine, it has left me as breathless as my high-altitude rainforest walk on that unforgettable day.

BELOW: Curiosity is not exclusive to cats. This baby overcame her shyness – while mom kept a watchful eye – to interact with our group.

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T |

FACT, FICTION & FANTASY A MARVELLOUSLY MIXED BAG – FROM THE CATCHY TUNES PENNED AND SUNG BY ELTON JOHN, THE DRAMA OF KEANU REEVES PLAYING AN ASSASSIN, THE GOOFY MAKE BELIEVE ANIMATION OF WHAT PETS GET UP TO WHEN THEIR OWNERS ARE NOT AROUND – TO BOOKS AND THE LATEST MUSIC RELEASES.

ROCKETMAN

top pick Bohemian Rhapsody swept the Awards season in 2018/19 and made people fall back in love with the music of Queen. Early indications are that Rocketman, the ‘fantasy biopic’ of the life and times of Elton John could possibly eclipse that.

Taron Egerton (Kingsman 1 & 2, Eddie the Eagle and Billionaire Boys Club) takes on the challenging role of rock legend Elton John, who is still very much alive and kicking.

The project has cleared a number of hurdles in getting to the screen with a change of director and actors before filming began. Tom Hardy was once tipped for the role while Elton wanted Justin Timberlake to play him – but critics are unanimous that Egerton nails the portrayal. Even more interesting is that the versatile actor also sings every song, not using a voice double or Elton’s original material!

The film focusses on Elton John’s beginnings, starting as a prodigy at the Royal Academy of Music and carrying over to when he reached global stardom through his influential and enduring musical partnership with his songwriting collaborator Bernie Taupin.

It’s a biopic that looks beyond the glitter, spotlight and camera flashes associated with the performer’s life, the good, the bad and the ugly.

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THE SECRET LIFE OF PETS 2

JOHN WICK: CHAPTER 3 PARABELLUM Nowhere is safe in the city that never sleeps – especially not when there’s a $14 million bounty on your head.

Keanu Reeves reprises his role in the eponymous John Wick franchise which has made millions at the box office worldwide.

The likeable and principled hitman has a massive – and lucrative – target on his back.

Assassins don’t make trustworthy friends and Wick must once again survive by his wits and his killing skills.

Consequently, the action is (predictably!) fast and furious, involving an epic motorcycle fight scene and even a horse chase!

Supporting roles are supplied by the likes of Halle Berry in black leather, Anjelica Huston, Ian McShane and Laurence Fishburn.

Shot on location in New York City, Russia, Morrocco and Spain, the film hits local screens soon.

When you harness the creative talent behind Minions and Despicable Me, how can it be anything BUT successful – as The Secret Life of Pets was.

Reprising their ‘roles’ from the first movie are comedian Kevin Hart as Super-rabbit Captain Snowball, Dana Carvey (Pops), Bobby Moynihan (Mel), Chris Renaud (Norman), Lake Bell (Chloe), Eric Stonestreet (Duke), Ellie Kemper (Katie) and Jenny Slate (Gidget). Making their respective debuts in the sequels are Tiffany Haddish as the Shih Tzu Daisy and sarcastically droll Harrison Ford as the Welsh sheepdog Rooster, boss of the farmyard.

It’s all about what happens when their owners leave for work and school – with maximum comedic impact and great sassy, witty one liners.

I AM EASY TO FIND THE NATIONAL It’s the eighth studio album from the band and includes some really special touches this time around.

Like the contribution from Gail Ann Dorsey, long time collaborator with David Bowie, who lends her voice to ‘You had your soul with you’, the first track off the album. And the Brooklyn Youth Choir, Lisa Hannigan, Sharon van Etten, Kate Stables and Mina Tindle.

“Yes, there are a lot of women singing on this, but it wasn’t because, ‘Oh, let’s have more women’s voices’,” lead singer Matt Berninger said in a statement. “It was more, ‘Let’s have more of a fabric of people’s identities.’ It would have been better to have had other male singers, but my ego wouldn’t let that happen.”

DISCLAIMER: All books featured here are supplied by Penquin Random House South A ica

ANY RANDOM KINDNESS HAELOS

CALIFORNIA SON MORRISSEY Former leadman of British group The Smiths, Morrissey has developed his own following over the years.

With his latest album, California Son, he pays tribute to some of the greatest songs and musicians of the 60’s and 70’s. Music critics are already buzzing at the prospect of hearing Dylan’s Only a Pawn in Their Game, Joni Mitchell’s Don’t Interrupt The Sorrow, Roy Orbison’s It’s Over and even Carly Simon’s When You Close Your Eyes.

Petra Haden, LP, Ed Droste of Grizzly Bear, Ariel Engle of Broken Social Scene, Sameer Gadhia of Young The Giant, Billie Joe Armstrong of Green Day and Lydia Night of The Regrettes also feature.

In May, British trip-hop outfit HAELOS are slated to drop their latest album, Any Random Kindness.

Due out through Infectious, the followup to 2016’s Full Circle finds Lotti Benardout, Arthur Delaney, and Dom Goldsmith “experimenting” with new songwriting approaches.

“I think we put pressure on ourselves for sure,” said Benardout, “we had a real desire to complete a whole album and not just come out with one, two tracks and see what happened. We really wanted to lock ourselves away and complete a whole album.”

Specifically, Delaney returned to his roots of writing music on the acoustic guitar; Goldsmith, meanwhile, turned to the music of techno legend Ricardo Villalobos for inspiration.

The band also expanded by making touring guitarist Daniel Vildósola an official member, incorporating his “classical background and technical prowess.”

The 11-track collection was produced in East London, and its themes touch on modern society and its ills, including the current political landscape, climate change, and technology.

THE SECRETARY RENEE KNIGHT

THE PARISIAN ISABELLA HAMMAD As the First World War shatters families, destroys friendships and kills lovers, a young Palestinian dreamer sets out to find himself.

Midhat Kamal navigates his way across a fractured world, from the shifting politics of the Middle East to the dinner tables of Montpellier and a newly tumultuous Paris. He discovers that everything is fragile: love turns to loss, friends become enemies and everyone is looking for a place to belong.

Isabella Hammad delicately unpicks the tangled politics and personal tragedies of a turbulent era – the Palestinian struggle for independence, the strife of the early 20th century and the looming shadow of the Second World War. An intensely human story amidst a global conflict, The Parisian is historical fiction with a remarkable contemporary voice.

STAR CROSSED – MINNIE DARKE Destiny doesn't happen by accident . . .

When Justine Carmichael (Sagittarius, aspiring journalist and sceptic) bumps into her teenage crush Nick Jordan (Aquarius, struggling actor and true believer) it could be by chance. Or it could be written in the stars.

Justine works at the Alexandria Park Star - and Nick, she now learns, relies on the magazine's astrology column to guide him in life. Looking for a way to get Nick's attention, Justine has the idea of making a few small alterations to the horoscope for Aquarius before it goes to print.

After all, it's only the stars. What could possibly go wrong?

Look around you. Who holds the most power in the room? Is it the one who speaks loudest, who looks the part, who has the most money, who commands the most respect?

Or perhaps it’s someone like Christine Butcher: a meek, overlooked figure, who silently bears witness as information is shared and secrets are whispered.

Someone who quietly, maybe even unwittingly, gathers together knowledge of the people she’s there to serve – the ones who don’t notice her, the ones who consider themselves to be important.

There’s a fine line between loyalty and betrayal. And when someone like Christine Butcher is pushed to their limit, she might just become the most dangerous person in the room ...

M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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T E C H N O LO GY |

Mobile Security & Wifi Scan

Life changing – that’s how good this app is. And even better news is that it’s free.

It protects your private data and increases your phone or tablet security with Safe Web, Media Vault, Anti-theft, Thief Cam and Contacts Backup.

It offers a fresh, clean design with easy navigation and enhanced scan capabilities. McAfee’s Mobile Security threat scan will detect unsecure Wi-Fi hotspots, ‘Man-In-TheMiddle Wi-Fi attacks, rogue access points, Out-Of-Date mobile software and secures settings. Safe Web protects you from phishing or ARP Spoofing, alerts you when you are browsing malicious websites – keeping your data private and safe.

G DATA Internet Security

You shop online, you send emails, you bank online, you take videos and pictures and communicate with family and friends. G DATA Internet Security protects against phishing and analyses every website before you can open it.

Fake and potentially dangerous pages are instantly blocked.

You can set certain websites on your device for child-friendly browsing.

Locating your phone is easy when stolen, or the added feature of locating your misplaced phone, say in the living room, by starting a signal tone via your browser. This can even be done when the sound is switched off.

TM Mobile Security – WebFilter

SAFE AND SECURE OUR LIVES ARE INEXTRICABLY INTERWOVEN AND LINKED TO OUR MOBILE DEVICES. UNSCRUPULOUS CHARACTERS ARE HAPPY TO PROFIT FROM LAX PROTECTION OF OUR OWN DATA. SO SPEND A BIT OF TIME LOCKING THINGS DOWN, ADVISES DAVID BOWMAN. 66 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Undesired websites, unnecessary content, invasions of privacy and danger to children are a thing of the past with this app. Content Shield filters malicious and unwanted websites and works on all browsers and also features a SafeSurfing built-in secure browser. Private surfing is enabled without history being recorded.

The app assists in locating missing devices using GPS, cell towers or Wi-Fi. The Device Access Status makes sure that your device is configured for optimum protection and the Wi-Fi Checker monitors the status of your connected Wi-Fi.

Dashlane Password Manager

Dashlane simplifies and secures your digital identity: in other words, all your personal and private information that is stored online. The app securely stores passwords, secure notes, payments, personal info and IDs in your own encrypted vault. You can replace weak passwords in seconds with the Password Generator or automatic password changer.

New is monitoring your Password Health on the new Identity Dashboard, and instant security alerts for each email account through Dark Web Monitoring. Use Inbox Security Scan to scan your email inbox and find all the accounts you have created, analyse their security and save the details in Dashlane.

RESPONSIBILITY |

RECYCLING

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

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S

ONE MAN’S TRASH IS ANOTHER MAN’S TREASURE, OR SO THE SAYING GOES. IN GHANA, ONE ENTERPRISING ENTREPRENEUR SOURCES USED CAR TYRES FROM A DUMP, WRAPS THEM IN HEMP ROPE, ADDS A GLASS TOP AND FUNKY SILVER FEET AND HIS UPCYCLED TYRE HAS BECOME A SIDE OR COFFEE TABLE. FROM A DUMP TO A DECOR ITEM ...

ay the word “recycling” and people automatically think about separating household waste into plastics, paper and cardboard, glass and cans or tins. Most major cities in South Africa have recycling depots or even special collections of recycling over and above regular municipal garbage collections.

South Africa as a country is becoming far more aware of the environmental benefits of recycling. There’s no argument that removing items from the waste stream offers significant advantages. But what about the human impact of informal recycling?

It’s been estimated that around 215 000 people are involved in informal recycling and a figure was quoted at a recent seminar held at the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town in March that around 90% of all items recycled in South Africa are from these collectors.

The truth of the matter is that because of the country’s high unemployment rate people will do anything to earn an income – and collecting glass bottles, plastic waste or paper and cardboard is a relatively simple way to do so. These waste-preneurs trawl through industrial areas as well as suburbs, knowing exactly what days waste collections take place and arriving in the early hours of the morning to go through rubbish bins to sort through domestic detritus in search of valuable plastic, glass and cardboard.

Nearly a year ago, in July 2018, Plastics|SA, the body that represents the local plastics industry, shared its recycling figures for the previous year. In 2017 alone, 334 727 tons of plastic was recycled into raw material – the seventh year on the trot that plastics recycling grew in the country.

This put the net input recycling rate at 43.7% which comfortably outstripped the European recycling rate of 31.1%.

“South Africa is doing phenomenally well with its recycling, and I believe the latest results show that we are slowly but steadily beating the odds,” said Plastics|SA Executive Director, Anton Hanekom.

“One of the biggest challenges to building our recycling industry over the years has been getting access to good quality, relatively clean materials before they reach landfills. Despite our calls for separation-atsource, whereby recyclable materials are separated from non-recyclables, a staggering 74% of the plastics that were recycled during 2017 were still obtained from landfill and other post-consumer sources.”

Mr Hanekom said plastics recycling provided an income to more than 58 100 workers in 2017 – in both the formal and informal sectors. Furthermore, he said by utilising the recycled plastics, “an estimated M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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RESPONSIBILITY |

RECYCLING

R 448 million was injected into the economy at primary sourcing level”.

That amount of money is not small beer ... and the beer fraternity are no slouches either.

In Tembisa, Johannesburg, SAB piloted an innovative waste recovery initiative which is modelled on a very successful Zambian project called Manja Pamodzi. It’s where 54 unemployed men and women are being encouraged to manage their own waste recycling businesses and being registered as co-operatives.

Furthermore, they are being supported and mentored to grow their businesses in the hopes of becoming employers themselves.

The experience from Manja Pamodzi, a project supported by ABInbev’s Zambian Breweries, is that this form of financial empowerment has a powerful multiplier effect, and 226 jobs were created while 3 000 tons of waste was recycled. The attendant health and environmental gain was substantial. In just a few months of operation, the Tembisa project has in itself cleaned up 700 tons of waste, most of it glass.

This is fortuitous because SAB is very aware of the need to protect raw materials and dwindling natural resources. “SAB recognises the importance of adopting a circular economy approach to its operations with a focus on product packaging,” said Bishen Morgan, Procurement Director: Sustainability & Capabilities, SAB and AB InBev Africa. By 2025, SAB expects

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100% of its packaging to be returnable or made from majority recycled content.

Around 85% of SAB’s packaging is returnable “and is re-used up to 18 times”, a media release stated.

Consequently, the amount of glass disposed of by consumers is reduced.

SAB is also looking at lightening their product to minimise weight and the amount of material used.

SAB collaborates with its suppliers to increase the amount of recycled material used to produce its packaging.

Bottles used contain, on average, 41% recycled content, and as high as 70% for cans.

“Our commitment is clear,” said Mr Morgan, “we are determined to work towards contributing towards a circular economy in South Africa, and indeed the rest of Africa, where waste is viewed as a resource, an opportunity to create jobs and a cleaner environment.”

It was a similar idea which motivated the originator of the Qhubeka bicycle non-profit organisation, Anthony Fitzhenry to include waste-preneurs in the project. CHEERS has previously reported on this innovative initiative which aims to get people on bicycles, cutting down on the time spent commuting to and from work or school and making people more economically independent.

Qhubeka is nguni for “moving forward” or “carrying on” – and

74%

FROM LANDFILLS & OTHER POST-CONSUMER SOURCES

26%

SEPARATIONAT-SOURCE

PLASTICS 2017 RECYCLED

R448 000 000 INJECTED INTO THE ECONOMY AT PRIMARY SOURCING LEVEL TOP: Separation at source is still woefully low in South Africa.

Designating different bins for paper, plastic, cans and glass is a simple solution for easy recycling.

BOTTOM: From small seeds, great things grow: one of Qhubeka’s cycle initiatives involves indigenous plant cultivation at a local school – with a bicycle as a reward.

it’s a brilliant name for a non-profit organisation which aims to put bicycles in the hands of people who face severe transport challenges.

Started in 2005, Qhubeka is not about simply giving people the robust and sturdy buffalo bikes – but applying conditions to the bike donation. “This is a hand up, not a hand out,” Mr Fitzhenry said.

To qualify for a bicycle, the adults who participated in a Johannesburg project had to collect 1 200kg of recyclable glass or 350kg of plastic waste – and that was where the term ‘waste-preneurs’ was coined.

Alternatively, they could become ‘tree-preneurs’ through the Wildlands conservation trust which saw them planting and growing trees, most frequently in discarded two litre plastic cool drink bottles which were cut in half and used as pots – with 100 trees being traded for a single bicycle.

Wildlands not only supports the ‘treepreneuers’ in growing the saplings but then finds buyers for the plants.

By encouraging these activities, even if it is as mundane as separating your own trash into plastic, paper, glass and cans for the local weekly bin divers, you could play a significant role in reducing the amount of unnecessary items going to landfill while also putting money in the pockets of people who desperately need it.

|

NEXT MONTH

in the next issue of

IF IT TASTES GOOD, EAT IT! Beer in edible form WARMING DRINKS FOR WINTER, Looking beyond Irish Coffee The softer side of BRANDY

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

W W W .T O P S AT S P A R . C O . Z A

CONGRATULATIONS TO PREVIOUS ISSUE’S WINNER OF GREG GILOWEY AND KARL TESSENDORF’S BEER FIRE FOOD: Deon Viljoen from Redhill, Durban M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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LO O P D O P |

MY VOORVADERS IS IN SOWETO VERSKIL ONS DAN RÊRIG SO VEEL VAN MEKAAR IN DIE LAND VAN ONS? AMPER 30 JAAR GELEDE HET EK EN ’N KOLLEGA HANDE GEVAT, SOWETO TOE.

S Address: Cnr Ennis & Oosthuise Streets, Ermelo Tel: 017 819 7519 Business Hours: TOPS at SPAR Mon-Fri: 07h00 - 19h00 Sat: 07h00 - 19h00 Sun: 08h00 - 14h00 TOPS Customer Care Tel: 086 031 3141

o hier kort voor Madiba vrygelaat is in 1990 werk ek vir ’n reklameagentskap in Johannesburg. Dié bedryf was nog altyd bekend as van die mees liberale spanne op die veld. By ons werk Paul Kubuwe en ek begin al hoe meer met hom te gesels.

Later begin ek besef dat, alhoewel ons baie vir mekaar te sê het en onophoudelik kan filosofeer en redeneer, is dit omdat hy oorgestap het. Hy het homself bemagtig om my wêreld te verstaan. MBA gedoen op Wits et al. Ons kommunikeer en kuier soos ek gewoond is en ek weet niks van sy grootwordwêreld nie.

Ek noem dit in ’n stadium aan hom en gebruik die metafoor van parallelle heelalle.

Koppies, bekers of glase kompeteer nie met ’n kalbas nie. Dis ’n konneksie wat oor die generasies strek.

72 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

“Jou voorvaders het op een spoor geloop en myne op die ander,” sê ek. “Ek wens ons kan daai spore laat kruis.”

“Maar kom ons maak ’n begin,” offer Paul.

“Hoe?” “Ek nooi jou vir ’n izimbo – dis ’n tradisionele ontmoeting – Saterdagaand by ons shebeen in Soweto.” Ek sluk; hy lag. “Jy’s veilig. Ek en jy gaan umqombothi saam drink.” Ten minste weet ek dis tradisionele sorghumbier en goed vir mens. Maar ek weet nog niks van die ritueel daarvan nie.

“Jy moet iets saambring as geskenk. Enige teken van waardering.”

Vroegaand Saterdag ry hy met my die diep Soweto in. Ek verwonder my; oral speel kinders, honde hardloop saam; mense wuif. Vuurtjies flikker. Smileys (skaapkoppe) braai. Groepe staan rond, quarts bier in die hand. Lag. Gesels. Geniet. Armoede, vreugde en lewe in gelyke dele. Ek vergeet om bang te wees.

By die shebeen gaan ons in die agterkamer in. ’n Groep mans sit in ’n kring om ’n ou tafel. Naby die deur staan ’n groot drom.

En die enigste vrou in die vertrek.

Sy het ’n uitgeholde kalbas in haar hand en skep daarmee van die ligbruin vloeistof op.

Sy is die broumeester, of dan, brouvrou en moet voor die groep drink om te wys dis veilig. Dan gee sy die kalbas vir die gasheer en verlaat die vertrek. Hy drink. En hou die kalbas vir my.

Paul stamp aan my. Nou moet ek die geskenk gee voor ek die kalbas mag vat. Ek het besluit die kulture moet paaie kruis en haal ’n bottel Roodeberg uit. Die kalbas word aangegee. Ek sluk.

Ek is deel van dié izimbo.

Nadat die kalbas die rondte voltooi het, verdaag ons na buite. ’n Vuur brand mooi. Nou kom die vrouens by. En die sang. Ek is in beswyming. Quarts bier kom uit.

Glase word vol geskink. Ek het my nog nooit so deel van my land gevoel nie. Ons lag, ons gesels.

Ons deel. Oorkant my sit Josie, Paul se ouer suster wat onderwys gee in Soweto. Sy verduidelik dat sy dit doen om die kinders van Soweto ’n kans te gee om hoër op in die lewe se leer te klim. Ek verwonder my aan die mense se ongelooflike balans tussen die tradisionele en die nuwe wêreld.

Op daardie oomblik tel ek my glas bier op om te drink en hy glip uit my hand uit. En val homself aan skerwe. Almal jil en skree. Ek boor grond toe in skaamte.

“Nee,” sê Josie en vat my stewig om die pols van my hand wat die glas laat val het. In haar ander hand hou sy haar eie glas vas. “Moenie sleg voel nie. Dit was bestem. As dit gebeur is dit ’n teken dat jou voorvaders jou eien.” Sy kyk my in my oë en laat val haar eie glas langs my skerwe.

“Ons spore kruis ...”