It's all about
CHOCOLATE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
04 06 08 10 12
The Birth of Chocolate
1502 Began in Europe
Cacao leaves can move 90 Ëšto get sun and to protect younger leaves
$50,000,000,000 a year worldwide business
West Africa produces more than 75% of the world’s cocoa
14 16 18 20 23
Drying from about 60% to about 7.5%
Each cacao tree produces approximately 2,500 beans
It takes 400 cocoa beans to make one pound of chocolate.
Dark Chocolate contains 70%-90% of cocoa
Index
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Left Page Aztec. Man Carrying a Cacao Pod 1440–1521 Right Page Aztec picture with cacao tree
Cacao has been cultivated by many cultures for at least three millennia in Mesoamerica. CHOCOLATE history starts out in
chocolate with Quetzalcoatl, who, according to one legend, was cast away by the other gods for sharing chocolate with humans, and identified its extrication from the pod with the removal of the human heart in sacrifice. In contrast to the Maya, who liked their chocolate warm, the Aztecs drank it cold, seasoning it with a broad variety of additives, including the petals of the Cymbopetalum penduliflorum tree, chile pepper, allspice, vanilla, and honey.
Latin America, where cacao trees grow wild. The first people to use chocolate were probably the Olmec of what is today southeast Mexico. They lived in the area around 1000 BC, and their word, “kakawa,” gave us our word “cacao.” Unfortunately, that’s all we know. We don’t know how (or even if) the Olmec actually used chocolate. We do know, however, that the Maya, who inhabited the same general area a thousand years later (from about 250900 AD), did use chocolate. A lot. And not just internally. It is with the Maya that chocolate history really begins. It has been prepared as a drink for nearly all of its history. For example, one vessel found at an Olmec archaeological site on the Gulf Coast of Veracruz, Mexico, dates chocolate's preparation by preOlmec peoples as early as 1750 BC. On the Pacific coast of Chiapas, Mexico, a Mokaya archaeological site provides evidence of cacao beverages dating even earlier, to 1900 BC. The residues and the kind of vessel in which they were found indicate the initial use of cacao was not simply as a beverage, but the white pulp around the cacaobeans was likely used as a source of fermentable sugars for an very alcoholic drink.
The Aztecs were not able to grow cacao themselves, as their home in the Mexican highlands was unsuitable for it, so chocolate was a luxury imported into the empire. Those who lived in areas ruled by the Aztecs were required An early Classic-period (460–480 to offer cacao seeds in payment of AD) Mayan tomb from the site in Rio the tax they deemed "tribute". Cocoa Azul had vessels with the Maya glyph beans were often used as currency. For for cacao on them with residue of a example, the Aztecs used a system in chocolate drink, suggests the Maya which one turkey cost 100 cacao beans were drinking chocolate around 400 AD. and the one that fresh avocado was Documents in Maya hieroglyphs stated worth three beans. chocolate was used for ceremonial purposes, in addition to everyday life. The Maya grew cacao trees in their backyards, and used the cacao seeds the trees produced to make a frothy, bitter drink. By the 15th century, the Aztecs gained control of a large part of the Mesoamerica and adopted cacao into their culture. They associated that
1502
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Began in Europe Explorers Discover Chocolate In 1502, Christopher Columbus landed in the Americas. He found new and wonderful foods including cocoa. When he returned to Spain, he brought some cocoa beans back to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, but they were not especially interested in the strange new bean.
Making A Good First Impression
Channel Crossings
Hernan Cortes arrived in the Aztec homeland in 1519, the same year Quetzacoatl promised to return. Cortes happened to land at the exact spot from which the Aztec god departed. In his feather coated armor and gold jewelr y, he reminded Aztecs of their returning god. No wonder Montezuma offered him a cup of cocoa and an entire cocoa plantation! It made Cortes’ conquest of the Aztec empire all the easier.
Chocolate soon made its appearance in Great Britain. In 1657, the first English chocolate houses opened, much like today’s coffee houses. Because the drink was still considered a luxury, the shops were only open to men as a place to gamble and discuss politics.
A Spanish Secret The Spanish kept cocoa beans secret from the rest of Europe for a long time. In 1579, English pirates attacked a Spanish merchant ship filled with cocoa beans. Thinking the beans were dried sheep droppings, the pirates burned the ship in frustration.Once cocoa caught on, it caught on big. Like the Mayans and Aztecs, the Spanish drank cocoa for health and energy. But they also enjoyed it during church services and were even allowed to have cocoa during Lent, because it was considered a necessary beverage. Cortes did not enjoy the bitter cocoa drink, but he was amazed at how the Aztecs valued it. He found that warming the drink made it taste better and “hot chocolate” was born.
Chocolate Conquers Spain It was not until Cortes returned to Spain in 1528 that the King and Queen took notice. Unlike Columbus, Cortes brought not only the beans but the recipe and the equipment necessary to make chocolate beverage. For several decades, cocoa was mostly a
Chocolate Meets The Industrial Revolution Up until the mid-1700s, chocolate was made much the same way the ancient Mayans made it. Then during the industrial revolution, a series of technological innovations changed many things including the way chocolate was made First, a Frenchman named Doret invented a hydraulic machine to grind cocoa beans into paste. Soon after, another Frenchman named Dubuisson created a steam driven chocolate mill. It was now possible to grind huge amounts of cocoa and mass-produce chocolate inexpensively and quickly so it was available to people all over Europe. Chocolate was no longer reser ved for the elite. In 1829, Coenraad Van Houten, a Dutch chemist, invented the cocoa press. It squeezed the cocoa butter out of the bean leaving the powder we now call cocoa. He also added alkaline salts to powdered chocolate, which helps it mix better with water, and gives it a darker color and milder flavor.
Spanish secret, but then its popularity quickly spread to the other countries of Europe. Some say the first chocolate makers were monks hidden away in monasteries who mistakenly shared their “secret” with their French counterparts.Once cocoa started catching on, Spanish cooks experimented with the recipe and added sugar to sweeten it.
Chocolate Arrives in France In 1615, cocoa found its way into the court of the King Louis the Thirteenth of France at a royal wedding. His son, Louis the Fourteenth, was not a great cocoa fancier, but he played a major role in popularizing the drink. In 1659, he granted David Chaillou a ‘royal authorization’ to open the first chocolaterie in Paris. Chaillou roasted the beans in a pan and ground them the same way the Mayans and the Aztecs did, but that was about to change. Cocoa made its first appearance in France at the wedding of King Louis Thirteenth to the Spanish princess Anne d’Autriche. Anne not only brought cocoa along in her wedding basket, she also brought a servant skilled in the art of making the foaming beverage. morning-chocolate-venice
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Theobroma cacao is a small understory tree native to the
American tropical rainforest, which has evolved to utilize the shade of the heavy Cacao. The Cacao Tree is a shade tolerant, moisture loving, understory rainforest tree. It naturally favors riparian zones so often in the wild is found along rivers. The trees live for up to 100 years, but cultivated trees are considered economically productive for only about 60 years. When grown naturally from seed the tree has a 2 meter deep taproot—however in cultivation, most plantations use vegetative reproduction (cuttings) and that results in a tree without the taproot. Naturally Cacao grows to a height of 15 meters, but cultivated trees are trimmed shorter to make harvesting easier. The main stem of the tree is called the Chupon and the leaves budding off of the chupon (where a fruit was) are a fan. When grown from seed, the Chupon grows single for 1.5 meters and then spreads into layers.
Cacao leaves can move 90 Ëšfrom a horizontal to a vertical position to get sun and to protect younger leaves.
The leaves of Cacao are smooth bright green, oblong, about 15cm by 8cm. It is deciduous, it looses it's leaves, with new leaf growth in spurts 2 to 4 times a year. Shade leaves are longer than sun leaves in canopy area. Young leaves are reddish, making them less affected by the intense tropical sun and hang vertically to minimize sun damage. What is really fascinating about Cacao leaves is that they can move 90 degrees from vertical to horizontal and back to get better sun access and to protect young leaves! This is done with a node at the base of the leaf which changes its stiffness with temperature.
90
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Naturally Cacao grows under heavy rainforest canopy, it is cultivated underneath Banana or Casaca (Tapioca) or other large leaf, tree-like, grasses. It has unusually deep roots for a rainforest tree because it naturally tends to grow in the riparian zone. It requires a deep, slightly acidic, moist, well drained soil. In poorer soils, the low shade of the banana is ineffective and the high overhead shade of the canopy is required. The Cacao Tree grows in lowland tropical forests with little seasonality. It needs a consistent climate: temperatures of 21 to 32 degrees Celsius year round—never lower than 15 C, and 100 to 250 cm of rainfall, well distributed throughout the year with no month less than 10 cm. It grows only below 1000 meters of elevation, and usually below 300 meters. All of this means that it grows only in the tropics—almost exclusively within 10 degrees latitude of the Equator and only in places that are not too mountainous and do not have monsoons or droughts. The largest number of species are found in northwestern South America, where the tree is native. However over half of the world supply of commercial Cacao comes from two East African countries: Cote D'Ivorie (Ivory coast) exports 41%, and it's neighbor, Ghana 13% of the world's supply. Indonesia is third in world exports at 11%. Brazil, Cameroon, Ecuador, Madagascar, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, and Venezuela export significant amounts. And Cacao is also cultivated for export in Columbia, Congo/Zaire, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Fiji, Gabon, Grenada, Haiti, Jamaica, Malaysia, south central Mexico, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Peru, Philippines, Sau Tome, Sierra Leone, Togo, Trinidad and Western Samoa. Unlike the two other popular drugs that grow in the tropics, coffee and coca, Cacao is not horribly damaging to the rainforest – it doesn't require open land and in fact, requires the shade of the jungle to grow, although commercial plantations a usually clear of some or all of the forest to make it easier to harvest the pods. As with Coffee, Cacao is a crop that is grown in extremely poor areas with hot climates and manufactured into a product that is generally consumed in very wealthy areas with cool climates.
Theobroma cacao drawing
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$50,000,000,000 A YEAR WORLDWIDE BUSINESS
“The greatest tragedies were written by the Greeks and Shakespeare...neither knew chocolate.” — Sandra Boynton
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Many chocolate manufacturers have created products from chocolate bars to fudge, hoping to attract more consumers with each creation. Hershey and Mars have become the largest manufacturers in the world. Other large manufacturers include Nestlé, Kraft Foods and Lindt. The Hershey Company, known for their Hershey bar, Hershey’s Kisses and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, is the largest chocolate manufacturer in North America. Mars, Incorporated, one of the largest privately owned U.S. corporations, is a worldwide manufacturer of confectionery and other food products, with US$21 billion in annual sales in 2006. Mars is known for Mars Bar, Milky Way, M&M’s, Twix and Snickers, as well as other confectionery items, such Skittles.
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Food conglomerates Nestlé SA and Kraft Foods both have chocolate brands. Nestlé acquired Rowntree’s in 1988 and now market chocolates under their own brand, including Smarties and Kit Kat; Kraft Foods through its 1990 acquisition of Jacobs Suchard, now own Milka and Suchard. In February 2010, Kraft also acquired British-based Cadbury plc, the world’s largest confectionery manufacturer. Cadbury is well known for its Dairy Milk range and Creme Egg; Fry’s, Trebor Basset, the fair-trade brand Green & Black’s also belong to the group. The chocolate industry, a steadily growing, $50 billion-a-year worldwide business centered on the sale and consumption of chocolate, is prevalent on five out of seven continents. Big Chocolate, as it is also called, is essentially an oligopoly between major international chocolate companies in Europe and the U.S. These U.S. companies, such as Mars and Hershey’s alone, generate $13 billion a year in chocolate sales and account for two-thirds of U.S. manufacturers. However, Europe accounts for 45% of the world’s chocolate revenue.
Famous Brands 1. Wispa 2. KitKat 3. Twix 4. Dairy Milk 5. Dove 6. Topic
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WEST AFRICA PRODUCES MORE THAN
75%
OF THE WORLD’S COCOA
“Africa produces more than 75% of the world’s cocoa. The Ivory Coast alone produces more than 35% of the world's cocoa.” International Cocoa Organization.
More than three-fourths of all the world's cocoa comes from West Africa—but the entire continent of Africa only accounts for about 3 percent of its co nsumption. In general, countries in the temperate zones and cold zones—which are also the richest countries—consume much more chocolate than tropical countries. A UK study by research group Mintel also revealed that 91% of all women admit to eating chocolate—with the men at more than 87%. Chocolate is an $83 billion a year business, according to research firm MarketsandMarkets. That makes the industr y's value larger than the Gross D o m e s t i c Pr o d u c t o f m o r e t h a n 13 0 nations on earth, World Bank figures show. Europeans account for nearly half o f a l l t h e ch o c o l a t e t h e wo r l d e a t s , accor din g to th e Int er na t iona l Coc oa Organization. The average Brit, Swiss or German will each eat around 11 kilograms (24 pounds) of chocolate a year. Men's love of chocolate is on par with women's preference for the treat: A UK study by research group Mintel revealed 91% of all women admit to eating chocolate – with the men not far behind at more than 87%.
In Asia, chocolate hasn't traditionally been the sweet of choice, market analysis firm Euromonitor International reports. Right now, Indians eat only 165 grams (less than 6 ounces) of chocolate a year. The Chinese eat only 99 grams (3.5 ounces). But as Asian economies grow, so is their demand for indulgent treats, reports Mintel. This year, chocolate sales in China are expected to rise 19 percent to $1.2 billion. India expects to see a 7 percent jump to $633 million. And in Indonesia chocolate sales are expected to leap 25 percent to $1.1 billion - ballooning to nearly $2 billion by 2015. In fact, Asian markets are expected to hold a 20% share of the the most global market by 2016. Valentine's Day, which is just around t h e c o r n e r, m e a n s b i g b u s i n e s s f o r chocolate companies. In the U.S. alone, more than 58 million pounds of chocolate candy are sold during Valentine’s week. That's $345 million in sales in just one week and it can just makes up more than 5 percent of chocolate candy’s sales for the year, according to Nielsen research. Since the Harkin-Engel protocol was signed, the chocolate industry has made nearly a trillion U.S. dollars. According to the watchdog group Stop the Traffik, only 0.0075% of that money has been invested into improving the working conditions for children in West Africa.
Africa produces more than 75% of the world’s cocoa. The Ivory Coast alone produces more than 35% of the world's c o c o a , s ays t h e I n t e r n a t i o n a l C o c o a Organization. More than three-fourths of all the world's cocoa comes from West Africa—but the entire continent of Africa only accounts for about 3 percent of its consumption. Of the estimated 218 million child laborers in the world, about 70% work in agriculture, says the International Labour Organization, a U.N. agency.
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DRYING FROM
60% TO ABOUT 7.5% ABOUT
The cocoa beans, as they are now called after fermentation, come
out of this process with a high moisture content. In order to be shipped or stored, they must be dried. The drying process differs, depending on the climate or size of the plantation. Cocoa beans can be dried out in the sun on trays and mats where the climate permits. Sun-drying usual ly happens in smal ler plantat ions in drier environments. In tropical areas, where daily rainfall is the norm, the beans can be dried in sheds, as long as there is enough air circulating around the flats of beans. The use of wood fire to speed the drying process is disliked by bulk chocolate manufacturers and chocolatiers, as the process leaves the beans with a smoky taste. Each chocolate manufacturer has a closely guarded “secret recipe� for each chocolate product that it produces. This
secret begins with the type and quality of the cocoa beans used. I will use the symbol: to indicate points in the process where the manufacturer may use their own secret formula. When the selected cocoa beans arrive at the manufacturing plant they go through a very extensive sampling and testing
procedure. Sample cocoa beans are tested for size and defects, such as insects or mold, and then converted into chocolate liquor, which is evaluated for flavor and aroma
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by company tasters. Once the testing is complete and the shipment is accepted by the manufacturer, the beans are thoroughly cleaned to remove any foreign matter. The cocoa beans then go into the roaster for anywhere from 10 to 35 minutes. The first grind of the beans is usually
done in a milling or grinding machine such as a melangeur. The nibs are ground or crushed to liquefy the cocoa butter and produce what is now called chocolate liquor or chocolate liquid. For the second refining process, most chocolate manufacturers use a roll refiner or ball mill, which has two functions: to further reduce the particle size of the cocoa mass (and any other ingredients, such as sugar or milk powder) and to distribute the cocoa butter evenly throughout the mass, coating all of the particles of chocolates. The rolling process itself creates heat
that melts and distributes the cocoa butter. As well as the flavor of the chocolate, manufacturers must decide
on the particle size for each of their chocolates. This is the first step to developing chocolate’s smooth and creamy mouth-feel. Different percentages of cocoa butter
are removed or added to the chocolate liquor. Cocoa butter carries the flavor of the chocolate and produces a cooling effect on your tongue that you might notice when eating dark chocolate. Also, depending on the chocolate flavor desired, some or all of the following § ingredients are added: sugar, lecithin, milk or cream powder or milk crumb (used to produce a caramellike taste in milk chocolate), and spices such as vanilla. The formula the chocolate manufacturer develops for combining specific ingredients with the smooth chocolate liquor is what gives the chocolate its unique taste.
Left Dry Chocolates
Right Cocoa beans
EACH CACAO TREE PRODUCES APPROXIMATELY
2,500 BEANS
Where does chocolate come from? Actually, it DOES grow on trees. It all starts with a small tropical tree, the Theobroma cacao, usually called simply, “cacao.” (Pronounced KAKOW. Theobroma is Greek for “food of the gods.”) Cacao is native to Central and South America, but it is grown commercially throughout the tropics. About 70% of the world’s cacao is grown in Africa. A cacao tree can produce close to two thousand pods per year. The ridged, football shaped pod, or fruit, of the cacao grows from the branches and, oddly, straight out of the trunk. The pods, which mature throughout that the year, encase a sticky white pulp and about 30 or 40 seeds. The pulp is both sweet and tart; it is eaten and used in making drinks. The seeds, were you to bite into one straight out of the pod, are incredibly bitter. Not at all like the chocolate that comes from them. It’s actually a perfect design. The fruit attracts forest animals, like monkeys, who eat the fruit but cast the seeds aside, dispersing them and allowing
new trees to sprout up. (One of my favorite memories of a recent trip to Costa Rica was watching monkeys eating in a “chocolate” tree.) It’s hard to imagine why humans have ever thought to do anything with the seeds. What is it that we do with these seeds, which we call beans, to answer the question “Where does chocolate come from?” First, the pods must be harvested, which is usually done twice a year. Because the trees are too fragile to climb, harvesting is accomplished by workers on the ground, who wield either a machete or a long pole with a machete on the end. Then, workers open the pods by hand, taking care not to damage the beans inside. Next comes one of the most important steps in the process – fermentation. The beans, still sticky with pulp, are placed in earthen pits or wooden bins and covered with banana leaves, then left to ferment. The heat of fermentation changes the bitter flavors in the beans
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into something more edible, more chocolatey. The sugars in the bean turn into acids, the color changes from pale to dark brown, and the pulp residue melts away. The length of the fermentation process which depends on the type of bean; the higher quality beans it may need only a few days, where others may need a week or more. After fermentation, the beans are dried in the sun for about a week or longer. The flavor continues to develop during this time.
“Your hand and your mouth agreed many years ago that, as far as chocolate is concerned, there is no need to involve your brain.” —Dave Barry
It takes
400
cocoa beans to make one pound of chocolate.
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“Anything is good if it's made of chocolate.� — Jo Brand Cacao pods are harvested by cutting them from the tree using a machete, or by knocking them off the tree using a stick. The beans with their surrounding pulp are removed from the pods and placed in piles or bins, allowing access to micro-organisms so fermentation of the pectin-containing material can begin. Yeasts produce ethanol, lactic acid bacteria produce lactic acid, and acetic acid bacteria produce acetic acid. The fermentation process, which takes up to seven days, also produces several flavor precursors, eventually resulting in the familiar chocolate taste. It is important to harvest the pods when they are fully ripe, because if the pod is unripe, the beans will have a low cocoa butter content, or sugars in the white pulp will be insufficient for fermentation, resulting in a weak flavor. After fermentation, the beans must be quickly dried to prevent mold growth. Climate and weather permitting , this is done by spreading the beans out in the sun from five to seven days. The dried beans are then transported to the chocolate manufacturing facility. The beans are cleaned (removing t wigs, stones, and other debris), roasted, and graded. Next, the shell of each bean is removed to extract the nib. Finally, the nibs are ground and liquefied, resulting in pure chocolate in fluid form: chocolate liquor. The liquor can be further processed into two components: cocoa solids and cocoa butter. C h o c o l a te l i q u o r i s b l e n d e d w i t h t h e c o c o a b u tte r i n varying quantities to make different types of chocolate or couvertures. The basic blends of ingredients for the various types of chocolate (in order of highest quantity of cocoa liquor first), fountain chocolate is made with high levels of cocoa butter, allowing it to flow gently over a chocolate fountain to serve as dessert fondue.
Usually, an emulsifying agent, such as soy lecithin, is added, though a few manufacturers prefer to exclude this ingredient for purity reasons and to remain GMO-free, sometimes at the cost of a perfectly smooth texture. Some manufacturers are now using PGPR, an artificial emulsifier derived from castor oil that allows them to reduce the amount of cocoa butter while maintaining the same mouthfeel. The texture that is also heavily influenced by processing, specifically conching (see below). The more expensive chocolate tends to be processed longer and thus have a smoother texture and mouthfeel, regardless of whether emulsifying agents are added. Different manufacturers d e v e l o p t h e i r o w n " s i g n a tu r e " b l e n d s b a s e d o n t h e above formulas, but var ying proportions of the different constituents are used. The finest, plain dark chocolate couvertures contain at least 70% cocoa (both solids and butter), whereas milk chocolate usually contains up to 50%. High-quality white chocolate couvertures contain only about 35% cocoa butter. Producers of high-quality, small-batch chocolate argue that mass production produces bad-quality chocolate.Some mass-produced chocolate contains much less cocoa (as low as 7% in many cases), and fats other than cocoa butter. Vegetable oils and artificial vanilla flavor are often used in cheaper chocolate to mask poorly fermented and/or roasted beans.
Dark Chocolate contains
70%–90%
of cocoa
Dark chocolate is identified as such term which is because it contains far less milk than other kinds of chocolate, and sometimes no milk at all. It is made by mixing cocoa solids, fat, and sugar.
referred to as “dark.” Note that there is such a thing as “bittersweet (or semisweet) baking chocolate,” which is sweetened cocoa liquor without the added cocoa butter.
Usually, chocolate with a cocoa solid component of 35% or more is deemed dark chocolate, but any percentage higher than that would cause the chocolate to be classified differently. Because of the absence of milk, dark chocolate appears far browner in color, and is sometimes referred to as black chocolate. Varieties of dark chocolate are often used in baking and cooking, because those recipes often include the addition of sugar, which is balanced out by the less intensely sweet flavor of dark chocolate.
Dark chocolate has recently been discovered to have a number of healthy benefits. While eating dark chocolate can lead to the health benefits described below, remember that chocolate is also high in fat. Use FitDay to keep track of your calories and nutrition as you work towards your weight loss goals.
Dark chocolate is available in a range of cocoa percentages, and is sometimes sold with cocoa solids percentages of up to 90%. Dark chocolate is far less sweet than other varieties, including milk and white chocolate. Dark chocolate with higher percentages of cocoa solids will taste more bitter than those with lower percentages. Contains at least 35% chocolate liquor, plus cocoa butter and sugar in varying amounts. There is no technical difference between bittersweet and semisweet types of chocolate, and they are often
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“Your hand and your mouth agreed many years ago that, as far as chocolate is concerned, there is no need to involve your brain.” –Dave Barry
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INDEX
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A
F
T
Africa, 8, 9, 16, 17, 20 Asian, 12, 13
Fermentation, 18, 19 Franch, 7 Franchman, 7, 8
Tropical, 8, 9 Transport, 19, 22 Theobroma cocoa, 8
I
V
Industrial Revolution, 7 Investment, 8, 9,13
vestment, 12, 13
B Bateria, 19 Beverage, 7 Birth, 4, 5 Business, 10
C Chocolate, 4, 21 Cocoa, 5, 20 Cocoa leaf, 5, 7, 8, 9 Cocoa tree, 9 Cocoa beans, 6, 8, 12, 14, 16
D Dark Chocolate, 20 Drying, 14
E Economy, 10,11,13 Europe, 6, 7 Export, 6, 9, 18 Ecuador, 9
M Manufacturers, 14, 15 Mexico, 5 Madagascar, 8, 9
N Nutrition, 20
S Steam, 7, 10 Swiss, 13 Secret recipe, 14 Signature, 19
W West Africa, 12 Western Samoa, 8, 9 Winnoew, 14, 15 Wooden beans, 16