PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
AN ITALIAN IN NYC
Supplemento al n. 234, gennaio 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n째 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
EASTER PICS
CHOCOLATE ENTREMETS AND GELATO RECIPES SUGAR, COFFEE AND CUISINE TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
issue eighteen-2011
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
It’s time for comfort. SQ 013 Ø120 h 10 mm
TOR 135 Ø 135 h 40 mm
R
IS EG
TE
RE
E DD
SIG
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MADE IN ITALY • Easy to take the product out of the mould • No need for a blowtorch • No need for Clingfilm • Reduction in production time • An insert mould corresponds to each TOR diameter • Shockproof polycarbonate tray included • Easy to store
Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290
www.silikomart.com
In this issue “Live” from New York City Easter Time The Accademia and the wedding cake Emotions and rationality in chocolate Recipes' windmill Puffed Popeye Refreshing sips The sweet and cold side of the territory Recipes from the ifse
News The flexible multifunction Pastry Chef helper Quality from the root New Boscolo Etoile Academy in Tuscania Legion of Honour to Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti Biasetto in Bruxelles Exciting notes of colour From Sicily to Normandy In the world with Trittico Executive Intersicop 2011 Reliable machines Comfit and Comfit Maxi A new generation of professional moulds The Power of Knowledge Exceeding all expectations
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Grafico Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2011 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 234 January 2011 ON OUR COVER Dome of crème brulée with raspberries Biagio Settepani
Chocogang is coming Italian delights in London The pastry world meets in Lyon
THE BRAND NEW WEBSITE
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PASTRY
“LIVE” FROM NEW YORK CITY Happiness is a family and three shops It looks like the title of a film, but it is the story of BIAGIO SETTEPANI who, with his wife Pina and their three children, have made a life for themselves in New York City To talk about Biagio Settepani and his family is always a pleasure. And not just because they are close friends, but mainly because it means telling the story of a growing success, a real passion and a big heart. The story begins in Sicily, specifically in Ventimiglia di Palermo, where Biagio set off for the first time to New York with his twin brother Antonino and his parents. About this first phase, much useful information can be found in the second edition of "Sweet Sensations of Sicily", edited by Salvatore Farina, with pictures by Giancarlo Bononi, for Lussografica (For orders, chef7Bread@aol.com). The family is the starting point of this article because Biagio, with professionalism and passion (in addition to numerous awards), owes much to both his family of origin and to the one he has created with his wife Pina. Together and literally step by step, they "conquered" their America, today boasting three very well established shops: Bruno Bakery in La Guardia Place (in Manhattan), about 130 m2, of which 100 are dedicated to sales, a laboratory of 120 m2 and another 90 m2 warehouse with 20 employees; on Staten Island, there is Pasticceria Bruno Bakery & Restaurant in Forest Avenue (280 m2 total, of which 170 for a pastry and cuisine laboratory, and 35 employees); and Pasticceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard, with over 600 m2 and 40 employees. It is teamwork all the way: first the
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parents and Antonino, then Pina, a woman of great altruism and kindness (qualities that are common to her husband), who never has enough to give. And then there are three children: Salvatore, 25, grew up in his father's laboratory, did an internship with Biasetto in Padua, and now leads the pastry shop on Hylan Blvd; Fina spends her spare time (she recently graduated in marketing) in the other large shop on Staten Island, because she is very good with customers and with training assistants. And the ‘little one’ (so to speak, given that he is 17 years old) of the family, Joseph, has just left for the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (a university his brother studied at) and is quite happy to lend a hand in the laboratory, despite his football prowess. Settepani's pastry making combines Italian tradition with American (and a touch of French), a colourful mix of cultures lived and loved, which lead to an offering of cakes (from tiramisu to the keylime tart with lime cream and pastry), cookies (from Lenten cookies to "diet" ones with chocolate and cherries), single portions, frozen desserts, muffins, jams, bakery products and savoury pastries. But it is the mignons that best express this mix of cultures and techniques that go far beyond the Italy-USA tandem: about twenty mignons and forty single portions, numbers that make them unique in the area; the favourite is the chocolate mousse.
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THE “SMALL� OF THE FAMILY Settepani's most recent brainchild, open a year ago, is the Pasticceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard of Staten Island, now ably managed by his son Salvatore and by chef and partner Franco Franzese. We had the pleasure to visit and enjoy the rich lunch menu, among a crowd of customers, mostly women taking their breaks from local offices and from the nearby hospital. In fact, in all family-run businesses lunches and dinners are an excellent source of income and are appreciated not only for quality but also for the abundance of food, all with a clear Italian influence of course: fried calamari, mozzarella in carrozza, arancini, carpaccios, polenta, pasta of various sorts, salads, soups, meat and fish dishes, Tuscan piadine, pizzas, barbecue sandwiches, not to mention delicious desserts. Customer feedback is tangible and on weekends, especially in stores on Staten Island, there can be one-hour queues to eat. Even at breakfast, rooms are crowded; there are simple and filled croissants (almond, chocolate, cinnamon ... and salted), Danish, muffins, croissants with chocolate cream, as well as omelettes and savory dishes, for the classic English breakfast; Sunday brunch also works well. Eating on-site means customers can get to know the sweet offering, which boosts take-away sales. The offering includes various types of bread produced in the laboratory of Forest Avenue and obviously the super popular cupcake (see article in issue 229) made by the Settepanis in extra large formats: the favourite, known as Red Velvet, sells 150 pieces per week. Services offered include catering (especially for private parties and large family dinners) and take away, with popular sauces, especially the tomato pesto. Lastly, there are several initiatives for customers, such as courses for pastry and bread making at the shop in Hylan Blvd, on Sunday morning for 15 people for $95: chocolates for Valentine's Day, Easter specialties, Italian cookies, colourful cupcakes, ice cream, sorbets and granitas; carrot, nut and banana cake, lemon and blueberries; low-sugar treats, jams and jellies. This success is the result of hard work, credibility built over the years, and entrepreneurial flair, not only behind the scenes, but also in terms of marketing and image. And should anyone ask how two sto-
Above, the family group. From left: Joseph, Pina, Biagio, Fina and Salvatore.
res can co-exist so close together, Biagio specifies: "Some dine at Hylan Blvd and then eat dessert at Forest Ave!". www.pasticceriabruno.com A united family, three successful pastry shops, and industry esteem: how do you feel when you look back and take stock of the long road covered?
On the left, the pastry shop in Forest Avenue; Hylan Boulevard to the right, working with Franco and Salvatore are 40 employees, spread over two shifts, from 7 to 15.30 and from 15.30 to 22. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners are a great revenue for all the Settepani shops. At Hyland Blvd on Valentine's Day, for example, there is an average of three rounds of sessions for the romantic dinner.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
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PASTRY When I think of this long journey, the strongest emotion is to see my children involved in our business, happy to continue what Pina and I have built. What does it mean to be an ambassador of Italian dessert in the States, and to be an honorary member of AMPI? A lot, because it allows me to stay connected to my roots and to keep up with the times and trends, building useful connections even with the best professionals in Italy and worldwide. To what extent do the Americans understand Italian tradition? I think there is great confusion when speaking of our Italian traditions in the States: a large percentage of Italian pastry making has not kept up with the developments of the last 15 years. This means Italian desserts are still considered to be tiramisu, cannoli, the cassata and panna cotta, all of which is in some way influenced by American style. Let's talk about gelato: how do you make Americans understand the difference between ice cream and gelato? It is not easy to educate the customer with regards gelato, simply because ice cream is all they know. I believe in tastings and custom lessons, while trusting the work that Italian companies have been doing in these parts (Elenka, Fabbri 1905, Mec3, Pernigotti, PreGel ...). But it will still take some years before we see the results. What are the most popular flavours? The classics, from vanilla to chocolate, including hazelnut and strawberry. And are granitas appreciated? Yes, especially lemon and coffee.
What advice would you give to a fellow who wants to drive sales at a time as difficult as this? I think the best advice is always not to choose short-cuts in order to give the customer the best quality at the most appropriate price. These are times when you have to keep the cost of ingredients under control, carefully looking for the best deals, and minimizing waste. How has the clientele changed in New York in the last 10 years? The general public has greater awareness regarding food, through travel, television, internet ... But it is also more health- and weightconscious, and so spends and consumes less. The crisis can also be felt in your area. What are you doing to face it? Whenever you face any kind of crisis we must find ways to cut costs and reduce waste. We have also reduced the work week for employees to six days instead of seven, allowing us to contain wages. What is the ingredient that you love to work, and what innovative technology satisfies you the most? The ingredient is chocolate, while the equipment that I appreciate most is the blast chiller, which allows us every day to speed up production without affecting quality. What will be the future of the industry, in your opinion? The format will change: family-run pastry shops will disappear and a wave of more modern stores is coming, with an offering that goes beyond confectionery, including sandwiches, salads, soups and pizzas.
IRBBAF
Livia Chiriotti
Cartocci Dough flour sugar oil eggs yeast
g 1000 g 100 g 200 g 200 g 80
Ricotta cream ricotta sugar candied lemon vanilla cinnamon oil chocolate chips
45
81 .n--www.pasticceriainternazionale.com moc.elanoizanretniaireccitsap.www--n. 110 2011 182
g g g to to to
1125 340 100 taste taste taste
PASRTY
Vanilla and orange cremoso cream concentrated orange orange zest vanilla bean sugar egg yolks gelatin sheets water
g g g no. g g g g
725 105 25 1 140 215 15 45
Cook at 83째C the cream with the orange concentrate, zest, sugar and vanilla with egg yolks; add the gelatin and put into moulds.
Orange scent Pistachio dacquoise pistachio flour almond flour icing sugar flour sugar egg whites lemon zest crushed pistachio kernels toasted pistachios
g g g g g g no. g g
200 100 120 48 200 360 2 60 70
Beat the egg whites with sugar, add flour, powdered sugar and crushed pistachios. Slowly stir into the meringue, then arrange the toasted pistachios. Bake for 7 minutes at 165 째C.
Orange Chocolate Mousse 35% mg cream orange puree orange concentrate egg yolks trimolina sugar 65% chocolate cream
g 250 g 250 g 35 g 250 g 170 g 105 g 625 g 1220
Blood orange coulis blood orange puree orange concentrate sugar gelatin sheets water
g g g g g
240 45 45 8 32
Pistachio Macaroon almond flour sugar x 6 egg whites sugar powdered egg whites green and yellow colouring
g g g g g to
125 225 100 30 5 taste
g g g g g g
450 900 900 600 200 40 a. r.
Heat the puree with the concentrate and sugar, add the soaked gelatine leaves, then place in a mould.
Beat the egg whites with sugar and egg white powder, sift together sugar, powdered sugar and almond flour, place into the meringue. Work well and shape the macaroons on Silpat. Bake at 160 째C for 10 minutes.
Orange caramel glaze water sugar glucose condensed milk cold water gelatin powder orange colouring
Heat water, sugar and glucose at about 105째C, deglaze with the condensed milk, add gelatin and colouring. Note cremoso stands for creamy or cremeux.
Heat cream, trimolina, puree and orange concentrate, the second cream and sugar. Pour the hot liquid over the yolks. Cook until the mixture becomes thick, then stir in the chocolate pieces and mix well; allow to cool before adding the cream.
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Cassata Sponge flour eggs egg yolks melted butter sugar honey
g 1000 g 1200 g 200 g 100 g 700 g 100
Ricotta cream
see Cartocci on page 4
Rum syrup water sugar glucose rum
g 1000 g 1150 g 150 g 300
Line a mould with pistachio marzipan, and distribute a thin layer of vanilla sponge on the bottom soaked with rum syrup. Fill with ricotta cream, place another layer of sponge to close. Turn over, put a weight on top and freeze. When ready to display, apply a thin layer of fondant and decorate with fruit, as usual.
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Biagio Settepani www.pasticceriabruno.com Photos Giancarlo Bononi
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NEWS
THE FLEXIBLE MULTIFUNCTION PASTRY CHEF HELPER
New Boscolo Etoile Academy in Tuscania
Irinox presents the first upgrade of Multifresh®, the exclusive blast chilling and shock freezing system, which combines multiple functions in the one toll. It not only cools and freezes, but manages leavening and thawing. The dynamic mode setting, which provides special product-specific cycles (a pastry setting for croissants, doughs, mousses, creams... and settings for gelato and semifreddo), now has new cycles for chocolate and pralines. Meanwhile leavening cycles have been further enhanced to meet everyday pastry-making needs. For each food type a detailed study has been made of temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture and time requirements to achieve the best possible chilling and freezing outcomes. Multifresh® is the ideal everyday helper for the professional, simply and quickly providing solutions to the routine intermediate food processing stages. The aim is to maintain original food freshness and this is the reason why the air distribution system has been completely overhauled and adjusted, so that food is handled gently and never damaged. Irinox has always supported and promoted food events in Italy and around the world. At Sigep (pavillion B1 stand 160) it is also the event sponsor of the Junior Pastry World Cup and the main sponsor of the Italian Chocolate Championship, choosing Italy's representatives for the World Chocolate Masters. During the Sirha, Irinox supports the Italian team in the 11th Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie. www.irinox.com
QUALITY FROM THE ROOT Icam places prime importance on raw materials and on the genuine nature of cocoa. The Italian company is present in the areas where cocoa beans have been grown for centuries, working hand in hand with local farmers. This road to excellence sets out from the origins and ends with a selection of extra-dark gourmet chocolates, such as Grand cru, cru and single-origin. Even the tiniest difference in the geographical location of the plantations, the climate, the morphological characteristics of the soil, exposure to sunlight and the genetics of the plantations have a significant impact on the character of cocoa seeds and thus of the chocolate that is made from the beans. This strong link is especially evident in the two Grand cru varieties, Los Vasquez and Los Palmaritos. Made using the Hispaniola cocoa, which comes from individual plantations in the Dominican Republic, they have distinctive aromas, despite how close to one another the plantations are. Los Palmaritos has a powerful, intense aroma, while Los Vasquez is fruitier and pleasantly acidic. Also for the cru and single-origin chocolates, Icam has selected the finest locally-grown beans, identifying exclusive plantations and making the very best of their first-class genetic heritage. The result is a range of superior-quality chocolates: Pachiza (from Peru), a cru with a full, rounded flavour, pleasantly acidic; Dominicana (from the Dominican Republic), a sweetish, melt-in-the-mouth single-origin; Madagascar, a single-origin with a balance between acidic and bitter, with a full, rounded cocoa aroma, and Ecuador, a single-origin with a persistent floral bouquet. Grand cru, cru and single-origin comes in practical “buttons”, available in 1 or 4 kg bags, and can be used for the making of chocolates and gourmet chocolate bars, mousses, sauces, creams and gelato. www.icamcioccolato.it
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The Institute of Culinary Arts summons sought after professionals at home and abroad to act as teachers, maintaining as a guideline the excellence of raw materials, and the launch of global food trends, the focus being on the student. Growth over the years has seen the president Rossano Boscolo and his aides expand in various fields until becoming the Boscolo Etoile Academy. A major change took place with the move of the Boscolo Etoile Academy to Tuscania, in the province of Viterbo. Here Boscolo aims to consolidate his position through a project dedicated not just to professionals, but also to amateurs. The City of Tuscania and the Lazio Region have embraced the project by investing resources and placing the premises in a complex of great historic appeal, the former Church and Convent of San Francesco, dating from the thirteenth century, and now suitable as a student campus. The property, which will go to host the courses, offering catering and events is surrounded by the typical landscape of central Italy, where traditional materials are combined with contemporary art techniques. The rooms are open to the public every day: the church provides the link between the Academy and the city and contains the culinary museum, a multimedia library with 200 antique volumes in digital format, shops and local products, books and hardware. In the former medieval convent six high-tech laboratories have been placed: a professional kitchen, two for pastry and bread making, a kitchen with individual workstations for amateurs, a bakery-pizzeria with wood oven, an 48-seater auditorium, plus 2 additional teaching rooms. The partner companies have contributed to the outfitting by providing their machines. Outside there will be in spring a 17,000 m2 vegetable garden for cultivating raw materials, and an open-air amphitheatre for shows and events. Rumour has it there will be about 1,200 professional students per year, and about one thousand amateurs, with 55,000 visitors to the Internet portal last year, and 740,000 web pages viewed. www.istitutoetoile.it
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
INNOVATION IN
cHOcOLATE
new
Chocolate rose
Associate member of
Introducing the new
For more information visit:
chef’s collection
www.dobla.com
EASTER
EASTER TIME
Inside the real shell you can taste gianduja chocolate in white and orange versions.
ph. Valrhona
Gino Fabbri, Bologna
Graziano Giovannini Montecatini Terme Luc Eyriey, France
Antonio Le Rose, Genova Pasticceria Pallotti, Bologna Stefano Laghi, Faenza
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color EX
plus EX
Futura r200
injection
comfit maxi
Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
NEWS
LEGION OF HONOUR TO EMILIA COCCOLO CHIRIOTTI Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti – founder and editor in chief of "Pasticceria Internazionale" and wife of the founder of Chiriotti Editori, Giovanni Chiriotti – has been awarded the prestigious accolade of Knight of the Legion of Honour, an award announced in an official letter from the President of the French Republic, Nicolas Sarkozy. In the letter the President's motives are clear: "the quality of services to France and the attachment shown". Going further into detail, there are obvious references to the work in the sector of technical publishing: for having given value to confectionary the world over, especially the French school, and for having contributed to the development and qualitative improvement of pastry making, giving it international exposure. In addition to the long-time friends and collaborators, those present for this important recognition included many pastry chefs, representing associations from all over Italy and France, Gabriel Paillasson guest of honour, Officier de la Legion d'Honneur, President of the Confédération Nationale du Dessert et des Douceurs and the Confédération des Glaciers de France, founding president of the World Pastry Cup in Lyons and patron of this knighthood. Visit www.pasticceriainternazionale.it to read the moving speech by Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti and to see the full photo report.
Above, the moment of giving the prestigious award by the Consul General of France in Turin and Genoa, Véronique Vouland-Aneini. Here, group photo with pastry chefs. On the right, Emilia and MOF Gabriel Paillasson.
BIASETTO IN BRUXELLES Last November the second pastry shop by Biasetto was opened in Bruxelles, following Le Nouvel Espace Gourmand, which was inaugurated three years ago. Luigi, his brother Alessandro e their partners have taken over the famous Pâtisserie Mahieu of place Dumon, which was founded in 1978. 75% of the production sold in Bruxelles is made in Italy, at the Biasetto’s Atelier in Padua, where 32 people are employed and working, as Luigi himself explains, “as in a hospital, with barrack-like rules and chemist-like accuracy!”. www.pasticceriabiasetto.it
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EXCITING NOTES OF COLOUR
A brilliant touch of color on confectionery products and a perfect cut at temperatures above and below freezing: Nappages by Fabbri 1905 are ingredients for cakes and semifreddos, i.e. superior-quality transparent icings with a delicate flavour suitable for any kind of dessert. Nappages are available in different flavours, starting with Amarena, the top-of-range that brings Fabbri's emblematic shiny red fruit to professional cake-making; Apricot, with its delicious fruity aroma conjuring up images of summer; the tropical Passion fruit, with its typical tart taste; the Neutral version, giving a shine to cakes without altering their delicate flavour; Chocolate Icing, an explosion of flavour enhancing the gourmand side of any recipe; the classic Strawberry, the scrumptious Caramel with its luscious character, and the ever-popular Pistachio. This year a brand-new flavour enriches the Nappages range: Lemon, a new taste with a delectably tangy hint. www.fabbri1905.com
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EVENTS
THE ACCADEMIA and the wedding cake
The 17th public meeting of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the professional association gathering some well known Italian pastry chefs, was held in Brescia in November and was centred on the wedding cake theme, showing a colourful display of ceremony desserts. In this occasion, the Trofeo Pavoni – Pasticciere dell’Anno 2010 (the Italian pastry chef of the year) was given to Salvatore De Riso from Minori, near Salerno (www.deriso.it). The next public meeting will take place from 6 to 9 November 2011, probably in Parma, while the technical symposium will be held in Brescia from 13 to 16 March. www.ampiweb.it
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CHOCOLATE
EMOTIONS
and rationality in chocolate In issue 16 (download it from www.piwwe.com) we presented Gianluca Fusto, one of the most outstanding Italian pastry chefs, who travels in the world in order to learn, share his know-
ledge and teach. His creative mathematics, which brings together emotions and rationality allows him to be in continuous evolution, as demonstrated by these recipes.
ARAGUANI AND LIQUORICE 1 recipe = g 1824 UHT cream 35% fat Araguani 72% chocolate invert sugar butter 82% fat liquorice powder
g g g g g
680 810 125 180 29
Boil the cream and invert sugar. Pour it slowly over the chocolate melted at over 45°C and add the liquorice powder. Mix from the centre to create a shiny elastic knot. This structure must be maintained until the end. When the mixture is around 40°-45°C, add the diced cold butter from the fridge. Double chablon with tempered chocolate. First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in the ganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with the help of a spatula or pipe.
Pouring
Pouring between 38° and 45°C depending on the amount of product to spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so the ganaches do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 3 cm by 1 cm.
Crystallization
For 24 hours at 14°-18°C and a humidity of 60%. Then cut them and crystallize for 12 hours.
Decor
Place a silver decalcomania on the surface.
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BAROLO CHINATO 1 recipe = 3200 g Barolo Chinato gel Nappage Absolu Cristal Barolo Chinato Bourbon vanilla powder alcohol Buon Gusto
g 1270 g 677 g 11 g 42
Mix all ingredients together in a graduated jug or cutter. Pay attention to air bubbles. Dress in boule creuse lait (shells). Close the following day.
Notes
Nappage Absolu Cristal is a nappage by Valrhona with a neutral taste and colour, that can be used hot or cold. Alcohol Buon Gusto is a food-grade alcohol.
Grué sugar for coating icing sugar cocoa grué cocoa powder
g g g
545 606 48
Place all ingredients in the mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Assembly Barolo Chinato Gel g 2000 grué sugar for coating g 1200 Valrhona boule creuse lait (shells)
Fill shells with milk chocolate. Once crystallized, place them in a bowl and cover them with milk chocolate slightly lightened with cocoa butter. Allow them to crystallize and remove the excess with the help of a sieve.
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CHOCOLATE
Melt the cocoa butter at 40°-45°C, add the hazelnut oil and cocoa butter, heat to 45°-50°C. Mix the praline and start the crystallization at 24°-25°C. Pour into a frame of 34x34 cm, 12 mm high, pasted on a sheet of specific paper previously chablon stenciled with dark chocolate. Allow to crystallize from 24 to 36 hours at 17°C and 60% humidity. Double chablon with tempered chocolate. First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in the ganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with the help of a spatula or pipe.
Pouring
Pouring between 24° and 25°C depending on the amount of product to spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so the ganaches do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 2 cm by 2 cm.
Crystallization
THE PARIANINO
Decor
Place decalcomanias on the surface.
1 recipe = 1850 g almonds and hazelnut praliné 66% cocoa butter hazelnut paste Pariani hazelnut oil* clarified liquid butter 1
For 24 hours at 14°-18°C and a humidity of 60%. Then cut them and crystallize for 12 hours.
g 1300 g 210 g 260 g 55 g 25
*Hazelnut oil was traditionally produced in Piedmont, in the Langhe (the hilly area in the province of Cuneo), and it was used instead of olive oil, which was too much expensive for peasant families. Nowdays this ancient tradition revives thanks to the producer Mattia Pariani, from Cortemilia, who extracts oil from the local renowned hazelnut variety, i.e. Nocciola Tonda Gentile delle Langhe-Piemonte IGP. http://pariani.blogspot.com Gianluca Fusto www.gianlucafusto.com
A NEW GENERATION OF DRAGÉ THE “DUSTY” APPEARANCE OF THE SURFACE HIDES A PASTE WHICH CARRIES UNEXPECTED FLAVOURS TO THE PALATE. WE ARE TALKING OF GIANLUCA FUSTO AND ANDREA BESUSCHIO DUET. THE TWO PASTRY CHEFS HAVE COME UP WITH FOUR VARIANTS WITH EVOCATIVE NAMES: MANDY (WITH ALMONDS FROM NOTO), COFFY (PURE BRAZIL ARABICA COFFEE), NOTTY (WITH IGP PIEDMONT HAZELNUTS) AND SALTY (WITH SALTED PEANUTS). THE COMMON DENOMINATOR OF THE WHOLE LINE IS CHOCOLATE – WHITE, DARK OR MILK, DEPENDING ON THE VERSION – AND ITS IRREGULAR SHAPE REMINISCENT OF PEBBLES COLLECTED ON THE SEASHORE. THERE ARE DIFFERENT COLOURS (THE GREEN OF MANDY IS STRIKING) AND TASTES, GIVEN BY REFINED INGREDIENTS SUCH AS PIRAN SALT AND WASABI, SPICES LIKE CINNAMON, AND NERVINE BEVERAGES SUCH AS COFFEE AND GREEN TEA. DRAGÉ CREATED BY THE
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www.icamprofessionale.it
Italian down to the last drop. Every last drop of Icam chocolate contains something truly inimitable and unique: a passion for taste and creativity that’s Italian through and through. Sixty years of experience in the world of chocolate, carefully selected raw materials, full control throughout the farming and production chain and the use of the most advanced technology currently available: this is what makes Icam the last word in quality Italian chocolate. Icam Linea Professionale is here to help you turn this quality chocolate into exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian right down to the last drop.
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
NEWS
FROM SICILY TO NORMANDY
Palazzolo's family and staff.
The outside of the store in Rouen.
Attention to the environment and food security have allowed the Sicilian pastry chef Santi Palazzolo from Cinisi, near Palermo, to open two stores at Palermo airport and even one in Rouen, the capital of Normandy (France), within walking distance from the famous cathedral. The restaurant is called Tavola Calda Bistro by Palazzolo. It all started when Emmanuel Gillot and Linda Figlioli, owners of Comunico Plus, fell in love with Santi's specialties. Today production takes place in Cinisi's laboratories and is then sent on a monthly basis directly to a deposit in Rouen. Currently on site there is a small workshop where the various products are finished: decorations, brief bakings, and fillings; the possibility of increasing storage space is currently under consideration. “As for future projects - Santi Palazzolo says - we are working on improving the format used in France and a project is underway for the new opening, always with the same company, of a store in Paris."
IN THE WORLD WITH TRITTICO EXECUTIVE Bravo can boast over 40 years of experience in the production of machines for the daily work of gelato makers and confectioners, and the company has grown thanks to business development that expanded from Italy to all over the world. After the consolidation of the European markets through the opening of Bravo France in Paris in 1991, Bravo turned to South America and Australia, where many Italians settled during the last 50 years, and to the Asian markets, offering great opportunities in the fields of gelato production and elaborate confectionery. The success of the multifunctional Trittico® Executive abroad is due to its various programs, enabling to produce gelato, semifreddos, pastry for catering, custards, mousses, sauces, coulis, ganaches, tempered chocolate, etc. It is Bravo’s leading product in Korea and Japan and this expansion enabled to open Bravo Asia in 2008: it was a very important step to consolidate the company’s presence in these markets and to quickly provide them an efficient system of technical assistance, customer service, business and consultancy support through Bravo Trittico Club seminars. After the boom of hotel industry in the Middle East countries, Trittico was well welcomed also there, thanks to its multifunctional programs for gelato production, confectionery and catering. A recent development has been the opening of an office in California in order to enter the North-American market. This expansion has always been supported by Bravo’s presence at international expos, from the Sirha in Lyon (where Bravo is partner of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie), to the Sigep in Rimini (sponsorship of the Gelato World Cup and of the Juniores Pastry World Cup), from FHA in Singapore (sponsorship of the Asia Pastry Cup) to Intergelat in Alicante. This year Bravo is taking part in the most important events in the East (Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, Sidney), in Dubai and in Chicago. Morevorer, Bravo has formed partnerships with many culinary institutes, from the French Pastry School of Chicago to the At-Sunrice The Academy of Global Chefs in Singapore. It was also thanks to the company’s presence in France and its demanding customers, that Bravo succeeded in giving definition, precision and reliability to Trittico over the years. “We forecast therefore an excellent 2011 – they say – in which we will try to keep the important shares of market we conquered in the last years, and to implement them thanks to all those customers trying our every day the great advantages given by a combined multifunctional machine”. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com
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INTERSICOP 2011 The international bakery, pastry and related industries show, Intersicop 2011, which is due to stage its 9th edition between 24th and 28th March 2011, at Feria de Madrid, continues to reflect its strong commitment to industry. By October 170 companies had already confirmed their direct participation at the fair organised by IFEMA, which will occupy a net exhibition area of 10,000 m2. The fair continues to rally the support of the leading trade sector associations and companies, and the organising committee, which includes representatives of the main business associations for industry in Spain, has had a new chairman, namely Lorenzo Alonso, who is also the president of the Spanish Confederation of Bakery Organisations, CEOPAN. The strong level of foreign participation confirms the growing international dimension of the event, based on the attendance of companies from Portugal, France, Germany, Italy and the Netherlands. This aspect of Intersicop helps to consolidate its status as the leading showcase for the Spanish bakery and pastry industry and one of the leading events of this kind in Europe. The fair will present the latest developments and new features, as well as offering participants an opportunity to exchange experiences. www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es
RECIPES' WINDMILL BEYOND TIME Almond and citrus fruit recomposed biscuit brown sugar g 200 flour g 200 butter g 200 raw almond flour g 200 orange zest g 1 lemon zest g 1
Mix all ingredients and let rest overnight in refrigerator. The next day, grate the mixture and bake at 160째C for 20 minutes. When the biscuit is cold, add a small amount of hot molten white chocolate (as much as you need to bind the mixture), compact it in a square steel mold, 1 cm in height, and cool in a blast chiller.
Namelaka cream with lime and white chocolate whole milk g 250 grated lime peel g 10 glucose g 12 gelatin g 10 white chocolate g 370 cream g 500
obtain an elastic and shiny texture. Add to this preparation the cold cream and lime peel. Mix for a few minutes. Pour into square thermoformed thousand-bubble molds and cool.
Namelaka is the Japanese name for creamy. Strawberry and raspberry stew strawberry puree raspberry puree lemon juice sugar pectin
g g g g
300 200 a.r. 200 6
Heat the puree of strawberries and raspberries, mix the sugar and pectin and add to the puree. Cook until thick, then add the lemon juice.
Assembly
Remove the frozen namelaka cream from the mold and steam with the white chablonne mass. Place the cream on a crispy base of recomposed biscuit, pour in irregular fashion the strawberry and raspberry sauce and garnish with red fruit.
Soak 5 lime rinds in cold cream and put to one side. Boil the milk, glucose and the rest of lime rinds. Infuse for a few minutes. Filter. Add the rehydrated gelatin and pour slowly over the melted chocolate, so as to
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
Emmanuele Forcone Vasto, Chieti Pasticceria Pannamore
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RECIPES
AÇAI Soft base almond powder fine caster sugar moscovado sugar eggs fresh egg whites fine caster sugar fresh bananas average ripeness grated nutmeg total weight of kg 0.85
g g g g g g
150 90 30 220 50 30
% 17.65 14.2 3.53 25.88 5.88 14.2
g 280 32.94 to taste 100
Stir in the cutter with fine blade the eggs, sugar, and ground almonds and grate a little nutmeg to add flavour to the mixture. Separately, beat the egg whites and sugar to a meringue. When the mixture is blended, empty it into a bowl and mix the egg whites gently using a soft spatula. Empty the mixture over a non-stick pad inside the baking tin, sprinkle the surface with bananas cut into small regular pieces, and sprinkle the surface with icing sugar before baking. Static oven preheated to 185°C for 18 minutes.
Chocolate-orange cream cream 35% fat Sicilian oranges (juice) Tarocco orange white chocolate gelatin 150 Bloom total weight of 1.130 kg
g 390 g 120 no. 1 g 365 g 7
% 34.45 10.60 22,08 32.24 0.62 100
Grate the Tarocco orange into the orange juice, cover with plastic wrap and leave to infuse overnight in the refrigerator. Pour the white chocolate cut into pieces in a steel pan and bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to caramelize it evenly. Hydrate the gelatin in cold water,
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warm the juice at 75°C and filter the grated rind; add the dissolved gelatin and, little by little, the white chocolate caramel. Separately, whip the cream; when the chocolate-orange reaches 40°C, gently mix the cream with a spatula.
Milk mousse fresh whole milk cream 35% fat gelatin 150 Bloom milk chocolate 40% cocoa butter whipped cream 35% fat total weight of 2.27 kg
g 500 g 50 g 10 g 700 g 8 g 1000
% 22.05 2.20 0.44 30.86 0.35 44.09 100
Hydrate the gelatin, boil the milk with 50 g of cream, pour the warm mixture over the melted chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin and emulsify with the help of an immersion blender. At 35°C add the whipped cream and mix gently.
Açai gelé açai juice gelatin 200 Bloom invert sugar total weight of 0.26 kg
g g g
250 4 10
% 94.70 1.52 3.79 100
Heat the juice to 50°C with sugar, and add the hydrated gelatin. Açai is an exotic fruit from Brazil.
Caramel icing fine caster sugar fresh whole milk glucose
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g g g
250 50 210
% 27.75 5.55 23.31
gelatin 200 Bloom vanilla berry cream 35% fat milk chocolate 40% total weight of 0.9 kg
g 15 n. 1 g 300 g 75
1.66 0.11 33.30 8.32 100
Heat the glucose, add the sugar and caramelize to a nice brown colour. Separately, boil the cream and milk, reduce the sugar stirring with a spoon and add the pulp of vanilla. Hydrate the gelatin with water, stir the liquid mixture with the hot chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin warm, cover with plastic wrap and let stand overnight in refrigerator. Icing temperature 34°C.
Sablé moscovado sugar fine caster sugar soft butter W150-160 00 flour potato starch Maldon salt cocoa gruè 24% cocoa powder cinnamon vanilla powder dark chocolate 70% cocoa butter total weight of 0.33 kg
g g g g g g g g g g g g
35 45 70 60 20 2 10 8 1 2 60 15
% 10.67 13.72 21.34 18.29 6.10 0.61 3.05 2.44 0.30 0.61 18.29 4.57 100
Spread the dough to 4 mm and bake at 160°C for 15 minutes, open valve. Cool the pastry, chop coarsely, sieve to remove dust and freeze the pieces obtained, spray using a gun the chocolate mixture onto small pieces of cold sablé.
Assembly
Cut out two disks of soft base, diameter 14 cm, height 0.7 cm. Place in a ring of 2 cm in height and 14 diameter. Pour the chocolate-orange cream weighing out 100 g, and sprinkle with a few pieces of sablé. Blast chill to -20°C. Take the ring and place over the chocolate-orange cream 50 g of açai gelé. Place in the blast chiller. Place a sheet of acetate on a flat baking sheet; arrange a circle of 4.5 cm in height and 16 cm in diameter, pour in 1 cm of milk mousse and cool. When it begins to congeal, insert the disk of chocolate-açai cream, cover with more mousse and cover with a second disc of soft base 14 cm in diameter. Smooth the edges with the mousse. Blast chill. Remove from mould and glaze with icing at 34°C. Garnish with orange grué and crystalline sugar. Serving temperature 6°C.
Nutritional values for 100 g energy (kJ) energy (kcal) carbohydrates (g) fat (g) protein (g)
430.08 102.72 8.32 6.13 1.47
Mix starting with half the softened butter and flour, add the remaining flour and knead the minimum necessary to avoid heating the pastry.
Alessandro Dalmasso www. pasticceriadalmasso.com Avigliana, Torino Photo Remo Caffaro
SPHERE LIMITED EDITION, IS THE DESSERT OF THE FUTURE BY ROBERTO RINALDINI OF RIMINI, A SMALL BUBBLE BLOWN BY HAND, A MICRO DESSERT OF JUST ONE BITE, 50 EXCLUSIVE PAIRS. "IN THE PRESENTATION AND TASTE,” HE EXPLAINS “I WANTED TO CREATE AN EXPLOSIVE EFFECT IN THE MOUTH THANKS TO THE THIN CRUST OF SUGAR, WHICH WHEN IT BREAKS DELIVERS TO THE PALATE CREAM WITH AN INTRIGUING STRUCTURE, BETWEEN LIQUID AND CREAMY, WITH HINTS OF CITRUS AND RED FRUITS, THEIR ACIDITY MAKING THE DESSERT FRESH. THE INGREDIENTS USED ARE SUGAR CANE, STRAWBERRY-SCENTED ESSENTIAL OIL, AND NATURAL RED FOOD COLOURING. SPHERE HAS THE ADVANTAGE OF BEING CREATED BY HAND, USING LITTLE EQUIPMENT, AND SO CALLING IT A 'SWEET' IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. WWW.RINALDINIPASTRY.COM MADE IN
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
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NEWS
RELIABLE MACHINES The new RTL range (Labotronic and Pastomaster) by Carpigiani includes efficient and versatile machines equipped with the Teorema Ready system, i.e. remote technical diagnosis and intervention via web. The Labotronic RTL range offers 4 freezing programs (Excellent, Speed, Hard and Simply), a greater freezing customization and a wider differentiation in production. The Defrost feature automatically runs in case of an accidental stoppage during the freezing process, always providing the extraction of frozen gelato and a rapid production restart. It is available in four different models (1030, 1545, 2060 and 30100). Also the Pastomaster range has been updated as RTL: Pastomaster 60 has 5 speed mixing, 7 gelato mix, 4 sauce, 5 speciality and 5 free programs. The special exchange pump, which is located at the bottom of the tank, guarantees a low homogenization (to have finer and creamier gelato), a dry bain-marie system (to avoid burning and thus resulting in constant efficiency) and a low energy consumption, in proportion with the amount of mix to produce. The versatile Maestro allows to mix, cook, cool and temper with 14 programs for the making of gelato, cremolata, sauces and toppings, and 18 pastry and chocolate making programs. The machine has evolved to the HCD version and besides the intelligent and dynamic handling of the production cycle, the Hot-Cold-Dynamic® system modulates the hot or cold gas depending on the quality and quantity of product; it maintains gelato at the right consistency and avoids burning and incrusting. Both the hot and cold are produced by the refrigeration circuit compressor, with four fully integrated circuits managed the by HCD system itself. Maestro HCD is Teorema Ready and thus designed for remote technical diagnosis and interventions via web. Carpigiani has applied rounded corners to its laboratory equipment, including the new XPL range (3 batch freezers, 3 pasteurizers and 2 ageing tanks). The Labo XPL batch freezers have three variable freezing programs, suitable for gelato, sorbets and cremolata. They are equipped with the exclusive Hard-O-Time system to keep the production phases under control and achieve the ideal consistency. The beater’s blade is in POM (polyoxymethylene, an engineering thermoplastic) and has self-adjusting scrapers and no central shaft for the total expulsion of gelato. All models are equipped with the post-refrigeration system that allows to re-activate cold during the extraction phase, to maintain the consistency of gelato. The Pasto XP pasteurizers are mix producers with three levels of pasteurization: 65°C (for milk-cream mixes), 85°C (for milkegg mixes) and 90°C (for cocoa-milk mixes). The tap for extracting the desired quantity of mix has a piston that, after every extraction, sends all the mix back into the hopper, thus eliminating any residues along the pipe. The quality of pasteurization is guaranteed by the Black Out function, which is activated after a sudden loss of electricity or water; the machine calculates the temperature of the mix to resume the operation in progress or to repeat the pasteurization cycle. RTL, XPL and Master HCD control panels have the same symbols and large touch pads with LCD displays and scroll-down menus. Carpigiani has chosen to standardize all control panels, thus enhancing overall functionality. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com
COMFIT AND COMFIT MAXI Established in 1965 by Renato Selmi, Selmi started its activity as a hazelnut paste processing company and only afterwards focused on chocolate processing, thus becoming a specialist in this field; in 1987 Paolo Selmi joined his father in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines. The company focuses now on the continuous improvement of machines and their efficiency, guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant. Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance for customers are therefore essential steps of the company’s production procedure. Comfit coating pan is made of AISI 304 steel and is equipped with an electronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank cavity is controlled by a cooling system capable of speedily enlarging the size of products via the introduction of chocolate. During the following phase a resistance is used to smoothen and polish the surface of products and clean the machine. There is a thermoregulator on the control panel which enables the adjustment of temperature to suit the required processing. The technical data of Comfit are: tank capacity 15 kg, hourly production approx. 15 kg/h, power consumption 1.8 kW single phase 220 volt, cooling system 1100 frigories/h. The dimensions are w. 720 mm, d. 770 mm, h. 1420 mm. The technical features of Comfit Maxi are: tank capacity 5060 kg, hourly production 50-60 kg/h, power consumption 220 V. single phase. 2.5 kW, cooling system 1900 frigories/h. The dimensions are w. 1065 mm, d. 1445 mm, h. 1600 mm. Both machines are equipped with interchangeable air filters. www.selmi-group.it
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A new generation of professional moulds Silikomart launches the Tortaflex mould line for cakes, desserts, parfaits... in order to simplify the work of chefs and confectioners. The new 100% food liquid silicone mould has the advantages of silicone – flexibility; versatility of use in blast chillers, traditional or microwave ovens; easy product storage and handiness in mould release – and offers itself as an alternative to the metal ring traditionally used by confectioners. Tortaflex cuts down on preparation time because it doesn’t need any film; moreover, it doesn’t require a gas blowtorch to detach the product from the mould when still frozen, keeping its shape unchanged. Another distinctive features is the presence of marks on the sides of the mould, showing the level at each cm, to simplify work. Finally, thanks to the variety of shapes produced by Silikomart, it is possible to match many other moulds, multiform or sixty-by-forty (for instance in the shape of classical discs or half-spheres) to create special inserts, thus offering a wider variety of tastes and creative solutions. Tortaflex moulds are in white silicone and sold with a highly resistant plexiglas 60x40 cm baking-tin/tray. www.silikomart.com
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ITALPROGET. Technologies, projecTs, furnishin g s a n d d e s i g n s fo r b a r s, co n f ecTi o n e r s ’ s h o p s a n d i c e - c r ea m s h o p s
Magic.
enchanting Vision.
Discover Magic: Forceful, fascinating and flexible. Allow yourself to be bewitched by the magic of ItalProget. design and technology for a display cabinet able to guarantee total and ideal visibility from all viewpoints. straight and forceful lines and maximum impact frontpiece glass panels: a magic solution to give greater appeal and make icecream, confectionery products and hot and cold gastronomy the protagonists. Thanks to its flexibility, to the possibility of modular units, magic succeeds in adapting itself to the design of any environment and any dimension.
Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | www.italproget.com
Style, quality and technology
SUGAR
PUFFED
POPEYE Stéphane Klein's fun sugar workpiece
Big Fish Blown sugar
baking at 168°-170°C
sugar water glucose 38DE drops of tartaric acid
(after cooking)
g g g no.
1000 500 350 5-6
Stéphane Klein is an expert in sugar work and the owner of a school in Belfort, France, where he teaches the most advanced techniques. http://atelierdusucre.free.fr
1
For the trousers, use sky blue sugar. Blow a cone, then mark the hollow of the knee with a knife. For the second leg, repeat the same procedure by folding the knee a bit more. Glue the legs, forming the back of the character.
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2 For the shoes, use light brown
sugar. Start by blowing a ball and stretch it into a teardrop shape. Then, hot, finish blowing it on the opening end of the trousers, so that it fits well.
3
For the torso, use navy blue sugar. Blow a stretched pear shape, then cut the end with a hot knife. Remove it from the tube and glue it to the trousers.
PAVONI
4
For the head use flesh pink sugar and begin by blowing a ball. Form a prominent chin and attach it to the ball. Add the mouth in moulded sugar, then the eyeballs; paste eyes, eyelids and ears. Add the eyebrows and a tuft of black sugar. Then glue the head to the torso.
5 For each arm, blow a flesh pink cone. With a
knife, score the fold of the forearm. Form a plump hand and affix the arm. Attach both arms on the character and finish by adding a little scarf and a cap. StĂŠphane Klein
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NEWS
THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE Dictionary of Confectionary
With more than 2000 words, the "Dictionary of Artisan Confectionary" is sure to provide a helping hand in the confectioner's workshop "Knowledge gives the skilled pro awareness about his work, resulting in well-deserved satisfaction from a revived expertise", states the doyen of Italian confectionary, Fulvio Scolari, in his introduction to the Dictionary of Artisan Confectionary, a new pu-
Dictionary of Artisan Confectionary Emilia Chiriotti – Enrico Médail 352 pages - 2000 terms Bound (2010) - Euro 45 Edited in collaboration with Bibliotheca Culinaria To buy the dictionary visit www.chiriottieditori.it/shop
blication edited by Bibliotheca Culinaria and Chiriotti Editori. Scolari adds: "Knowledge has no borders; it allows those who broadly speaking love to discover their trade – from whatever surrounds them in the workshop, to modern technology, sales, and new trends – to feel richer inside, more motivated and capable of acting as the bearers of a great culture.” Hence the slogan used to promote the dictionary, the power of knowledge, because knowledge, understood as being without boundaries, in a broad and evolutive sense, enclosing understanding, ability and passion, is an instrument and vehicle of culture. This awareness has resulted in this publication by Emilia Chiriotti and Enrico Médail. It is a wide-ranging work, designed for rapid consultation, with about 2000 terms covering a wide range of topics relating to the world of confectionary. Equipment, descriptions of sweets, ingredients, key players, preparation and decorating techniques. From basic mixtures to classical sweets, from the great Italian leavened sweets to simple biscuits, from meringues to pièce montée, from praline to hot chocolate, and even molecular confectionary. From the workshop to sales, from creative packaging to display. The fruit of a long and painstaking work, the dictionary helps find the meaning of terms inviting the attentive and inquisitive reader to delve deeper. The result is a range of languages relating to the kitchen, the workshop and the market; an essential lexicon for all those in love with the world of sweets.
EXCEEDING ALL EXPECTATIONS Barely a year after the opening of their brand new innovation centre, Dobla introduces 40 new eye-catching products under their Chef’s Collection label. Corporate pastry chef of Dobla Frank Haasnoot says: “All these products are handcrafted and unique. At Dobla we want to stay ahead of competition, and we always strive to set the trends rather than following them. The products that we have developed are based around eight different themes, ranging from Honeymoon, Winter to Asian, Christmas, etc. We work with different shapes, structures, colors and finishing touches like sugar or golden sparkles. Take for example the Crinkle, referring to the Honeymoon theme, which has such a unique structure and shine, brightening up any cake. The Rising Sun is mostly unique because of its color, that is not just yellow or orange, but a perfect flow of two different colors, just like the sun”. All the 40 new products, which were introduced to a group of pastry lovers at the Dobla Experience event, are on show at Sirha in Lyon (Hall 6, Stand D40), where. Dobla is also a supporter of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie. www.dobla.com
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DRINKS
REFRESHING SIPS Sorbet, yogurt and coffee are enhanced with the aroma of whiskey
Silverado orange sorbet neutral yogurt espresso Drumbuie Canadian Whisky
g g cl cl cl
50 50 3 2 2
Prepare in the blender with a few ice chips, serve in a fancy glass and garnish as desired.
Roberto Bianchi Thanks to the Institute "A. Prever" of Pinerolo Photo Remo Caffaro
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TECHNOLOGIES, PRO J EC TS, F U R N I S H I N G S A N D D E S I G N S FO R B A R S, CO N F EC T I O N E R S ’ S H O P S A N D I C E - C R EA M S H O P S
Chapeau!
To those who, for 20 years, have chosen excellence in technology and style of ItalProget design Well done to all those who have chosen to see their dreams come to life by means of our ideas, to all those who believed in our project. Well done to those who shared, together with us, in the creation and renewal of their bar, confectioners’ shop or their point of sale. Well done to those who decided to offer their clientele all the security of our exclusive and certified technologies and the unmistakeable elegance of “Made in Italy” planning and design. Well done to those who chose ItalProget.
Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | info@italproget.com
www.italproget.com
CUISINE
THE SWEET AND COLD side of the territory
INTERVIEW WITH FRANCO ALIBERTI, PASTRY CHEF OF RISTORANTE VITE OF SAN PATRIGNANO Young, enterprising, passionate and, as he defines himself, "a bumbling fool", he's Franco Aliberti, born in 1985, pastry chef of Ristorante Vite in San Patrignano, where he works along with chef Fabio Rossi and a close-knit team. Backed by his family, he left his land to chase a dream: to learn from the great masters and become a professional. The apprenticeship took him all over Italy and beyond, during which he met great teachers who have left their mark and have helped him develop. He knows what he wants: to study, learn, observe, interpret and customize. Having chosen San Patrignano, he could get down to business. For him pastry making is passion, fun, experimentation, alchemy: it is the declination of the territory he lives in, which allows him to create his own world of colours, flavours and sensations. All seasoned with elements of fusion, and myriad references, but especially with a good dollop of fun. We met him for an interview. As usual he was brimming with energy and joie de vivre. Let's start with you and your training: when did you realize you wanted to make pastry? I attended the first two years at the Istituto Alberghiero in Salerno, then, at sixteen, following in the footsteps of my brother, I moved to Salsomaggiore Terme, where I finished school. My passion for pastry comes from my mother who always used to let me mess up her kitchen and experiment. Every gesture was a game full of passion and curiosity; it is the same game that I still carry around with me and that makes me love this job. Who has influenced your career most? All have given me something important: the experience in France with Alain Ducasse opened my mind; Massimo Spigaroli conveyed the importance of teamwork; Corrado Assenza, respect for raw materials and for those who produce them; Gino Fabbri, willpower; Gianluca Fusto, a 360-degree view of the world of sweets; Gennaro Esposito, the joy of this work; Leonardo Di Carlo, humility; Gualtiero Marchesi, the importance of always remembering where we come from. And, last but not least, Massimiliano Alajmo, and his family, whose restaurant Le Calandre, near Padua, I worked in for almost four years. It is difficult to explain in a few words what I learned, but there
is one sentence that accompanies me every day and that sums up the best of his teaching: "The last stage of complexity is simplicity." What makes an excellent dessert? The right balance of character, tastes, colours, feelings and the appropriate use of raw materials, so that it can offer its best. What do you look for in its creation? Excellent raw materials, preferably a little-known ingredient to intrigue the customer; the processing method, to be able to respect it without compromising its taste, and the technique that exalts it. How do you create your dessert menu? Over long periods of testing, that can last for years. The starting point is seasonality and local produce, followed by demand and customer preference. When I create a new item I begin with the name the dessert could acquire. I then move on to the design and I decide which plate to use for it. I also think of how to stir the emotions of my customers so that they become accomplices of my work and are left with a pleasant memory. Is there one sweet more than any other that you consider to be your speciality? The classic caramelized puff pastry with vanilla cream and raspberries. What raw materials do you prefer to work with? Spices, herbs, chocolate, vegetables, fruits: anything edible! And what ingredients make the difference in a cake? There isn't one in particular; the difference comes from the soul, the identity comes from the creator who conveys a specific and spontaneous emotional message. How do you seek balance? Through a continuous study of simple elements rich in beneficial properties for our body, such as water and oil, but mostly thanks to many samplings and experiments using different combinations. How important is it to know ingredients and work methods? It is important to know the raw material right from its origin in order to understand its properties and the best time to use it. In addition to this you must have an excellent knowledge of the methodology and techniques of the trade: it is the only way to achieve excellent results.
icity" l p m i s s i y t i x e l p m co of complexity stage of last stage "The is simplicity" "The last
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Plated desserts: what is its underlying philosophy? It's all about getting to the customer using simplicity, lightness, and proper balance all within a complex study aimed at stimulating tastes: sour, sweet, salty, and bitter. This must always go hand in hand with the other senses, placing an emphasis on touch and sight. What equipment and techniques could you not do without? The blast chiller, the whisks, the vacuum machine and a thermometer. If you know the techniques they can be adapted to suit the equipment. The future sees a growing synergy between salty and sweet, cooking and gelato: how do you interpret this? Their fusion will be increasingly important thanks to the exchange of techniques, processes and ingredients. The possibility for the pastry chef to learn more about the savoury world, and vice versa for the chef, is an enrichment that gives a broader view of gastronomy, and it provides the chance to grow and learn more. It is an important step that can stimulate the curiosity and thirst for knowledge and experimentation of operators. Why oil? It is a dressing of high quality that belongs to the Mediterranean tradition. Not everyone knows that fats, along with proteins and carbohydrates are macronutrients essential for the proper functioning of our body: they provide non synthesised fatty acids, called essentials, such as oleic and linoleic acid that stimulate the absorption of soluble vitamins and carotenoids. The oil is composed of 14.5% saturated fatty acids, 73% monosaturates and 7.5% polyunsaturated fats: they have a positive effect on lowering bad cholesterol and increasing good cholesterol. On this basis I tried to understand what benefits this could bring to sweet recipes: it is a vegetable fat with easily digested components, it has a rapid point of fusion on the palate, it is great for fixing flavours, and in some preparations it conveys a sense of heat. I use extra virgin oil with an acidity below 2%, produced by the community of San Patrignano, cultivated on the hills of Coriano, with olive cultivars such as correggiolo, leccino, moraiolo, pendulum and rossina, all hand-picked and cold pressed. Where will confectionary go over the next few years? We will see a return to tradition with more respect for raw materials and a focus on simplicity. Instead of a group of tastes, they will be few and well defined. What do you think of dessert menus in Italian restaurants? Unfortunately in Italy the restaurant pastry chef is not always present; most of the time you are faced with an offer that for one reason or another is lacking in ideas. Lately, though, the importance of predessert and dessert has been growing, facilitating an increase in quality and greater attention from caterers.
What are the greatest difficulties during the preparation of a sweet? Using the same products as others without repeating yourself; keeping one step ahead of them and searching for something beyond what you know. There is a fundamental step in creating a new recipe that I try always to put into practice: be aware of your knowledge but at the same time, be able to detach yourself for a moment, just long enough to create something new. What do you suggest to young people who embark on this career? If there is passion and desire you can go the distance: this of course goes with a lot of dedication, patience, humility, work and respect for those who teach. Do not give up at the first hurdle; in fact any hiccup is a stimulus to continue and improve. Only in this way can a dream come true.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
Monica Onnis
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CUISINE
SPRING
extra virgin olive oil biscuit Oil structured biscuit cocoa butter extra virgin olive oil
g g
40 200
Melt the cocoa butter and slowly drizzle in the oil. Mix well and pour into the Pacojet, freeze and process to obtain a very light raised mass. Form the slab of butter and refrigerate.
extra virgin olive oil butter icing sugar almond flour 0 flour 00 flour eggs salt baking powder vanilla bean
g g g g g g g g no
240 100 60 120 350 100 0.6 5 1
Since the oil has a low melting point, use the same procedure as for a classic pastry. However, in the mixing bowl mix the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder. Mix with the leaf, then add eggs and vanilla and butter oil. As soon as the pastry is firm place in the fridge for 3 hours. Grate the pastry with the wide part of the grater to obtain many flakes and let stand in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bake at 164°C with the valve closed for 13 minutes. Allow to cool and pass gently through a sieve: in this way the fine dust is removed and the flakes are rounded to look like pebbles. Store in sealed jars.
Geranium gelato milk sugar milk powder sugar stabilizer cream geranium leaves
g 2250 g 200 g 250 g 200 g 14 g 200 g 120
Bring the milk to 30°C, add the milk powder and sugar a little at a time, stirring constantly; when at 60°C add the sugar and the stabilizer previously mixed together. Bring it to 81° - 82°C, filter, add in the cream and allow to cool to 35°C. Finally, incorporate the geranium leaves. Allow to infuse for 3 hours. Strain and let stand for at least 10 hours. Freeze in Pacojet and whip at the moment of serving.
Blood orange and dill granita blood orange juice syrup 30 Bé centrifuged dill gelatine
g g g g
300 80 30 2
g
400
Centrifuge the pulp of red oranges and dill, then mix the two juices with the syrup 30 Bé, in which was dissolved gelatine. Stir and check for safety with the refractometer not exceeding 21°-22°Brix. Freeze, cut with a knife and store in freezer.
Juniper jam juniper
Cover the juniper with water and bring to a boil. Drain and set aside the water obtained, repeat three times, and proceed:
cooking water cooked juniper sugar glucose vanilla bean
g 1300 g 400 g 600 g 100 no 1
Whisk together sugar and cooked juniper, cook gently combining the remaining ingredients until you get a thicker syrup. Blend, sieve and store in refrigerator.
Juniper crunch Isomalt juniper jam
g g
320 45
Cook and allow the Isomalt to dissolve properly. Spread the sugar on Silpat and cool. Pulverize the sheet of sugar produced in a cutter, then with the help of a small strainer sprinkle on Silpat. Bake at 168°C for 10 minutes and once removed from the oven, before the crunch cools, with the help of a spatula, spread out in a thin layer, turn upside downon baking paper and remove from the Silpat. Store in airtight containers.
For decoration
edible flowers of different colours.
IN THE BLOOD ORANGE GRANITA OF CALABRIA, THE SWEET JUICE IS COMBINED WITH A DILL CENTRIFUGE TO HARMONIZE THE TASTE AND ADD AROMA TO THE GRANITA.
EDIBLE FLOWERS RECALL THE
BEGINNING OF THE SPRING BLOOM AND REQUIRE A DELICATE GELATO, FLAVOURED WITH A LIGHT TOUCH OF LEMONADE, FOLLOWED BY THE FRESHNESS OF WHITE, A SIGN OF PEACE FOR THE NEW SEASON: THIS WAS THE ORIGIN OF GERANIUM GELATO.
THE
CHEWY PART, CONSISTING OF A PEBBLY EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL BISCUIT REFLECTS MY PHILOSOPHY: TO LIGHTEN THE CAKE BY REPLACING FAT WITH OIL, FOR THE BENEFIT OF CRISPNESS AND FLAVOUR.
AND FINALLY THE SPARKLING ITEM, AN ALARM FOR THE
TASTE BUDS: THE THIN CRUNCH FLAVOURED WITH JUNIPER.
Franco Aliberti Ristorante Vite of San Patrignano www.ristorantevite.it
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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
NEWS
ITALIAN DELIGHTS IN LONDON
Ghezzi, Yaniv Stein and Bruschi on the opening day.
CHOCOGANG IS COMING
Alessandro Ghezzi and Palmiro Bruschi in front of Buckingham Palace.
Since last July in London you can sample traditional Italian gelato: the first Gino sales outlet has been opened, run by a company headed by Alessandro Ghezzi, born in Russia but originally from Tuscany, a resident for over 15 years in London and Yaniv Stein, an Israeli-cum-Londoner. The Italian component is Palmiro Bruschi, head of production, personnel training and franchising. The shop is run by Raul Nardino of Conegliano Veneto and Marianna Raiteri of Acqui Terme, and it seeks to represent Italian excellence. Popular flavours with the English are ginger gelato with dark chocolate, or in keeping with local tastes, the Guinness sorbet, peanut butter gelato and, among the Italian specialties, you can enjoy special flavours like Grandma's cookies, egg biscuits whisked in the classic fiordilatte, Vin Santo and Cantucci to represent Tuscany, Sorrento Lemon, extra virgin olive oil gelato, chocolate and Chianti, celery and Parmigiano, ďż˝ and White Coffee. New openings have been scheduled for Japan Progetto2_Layout 1 13/12/10 10.54 Pagina 1 and Brazil. www.ginogelato.com
Rhino, chimpanzee, snail, rabbit, elephant, sheep, cow, hedgehog, bear, tortoise: Pavoni Italia presents the new Chocogang line of thermoformed moulds to create 10 chocolate animals quickly and easily. Chocogang will enliven springtime with a touch of elegance, in accordance with Pavoni product range for professional pastry chefs. Each kit includes assembling instructions to obtain 2 animals, heights ranging from 130-195 mm, weight 300 g. The company product range is on show at the Sirha in Lyon, Stand 6H67. www.pavonitalia.com
24-28 MARCH 2011
ORGANISED BY:
IFEMA CALL CENTRE
www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es
INTERNATIONAL CALLS
(34) 91 722 30 00
FAX
(34) 91 722 57 91
IFEMA
Feria de Madrid 28042 Madrid Spain
intersicop-madrid@ifema.es
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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
RECIPES
RECIPES FROM THE IFSE TAGLIOLINI WITH VEGETABLE RAGOUT FOR THE TAGLIOLINI 00 wheat flour semolina flour cornmeal eggs egg yolks extra virgin olive oil salt
g 300 g 80 g 30 g 150 no 3 g 5 to taste
Put all the ingredients for the dough in a mixing machine with a pinch of salt; knead to get a smooth texture. Let rest in the fridge for 30 minutes, wrapped in a plastic wrap. Roll out the dough into 3 mm-thick sheets and cut it into 20 cm long tagliolini with a pasta wheel.
IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) is an association based in Piobesi Torinese, near Torino, founded to spread Italian cuisine philosophy and focusing on health aspects and gastronomic tradition. The school is directed by Raffaele Trovato and classes are attended by Italian and foreign students. www.ifse.it www.ifse-world.com www.foodfashion.it
FOR THE RAGOUT Pachino cherry tomatoes potatoes Parmigiano Reggiano cheese red onions from Tropea roasted red peppers lard leek 0 wheat flour eggplants asparagus basil leaves butter garlic cloves marjoram sprigs extra virgin olive oil
g g
80 80
g 30 g 60 g 100 g 40 g 40 to taste g 100 g 100 no 12 g 40 g 40 no 2 to taste
After peeling the asparagus and cutting off their tips, that will be blanched, cut the stems into small strips. In a sauté pan, sweat the julienned onions from Tropea in extra virgin olive oil and a crushed garlic clove; add asparagus, peppers and eggplants, sautè on a high heat and cook till done, leaving the asparagus crunchy; add the hand-torn basil and the finely chopped marjoram. In the meantime, peel and seed the cherry tomatoes and cut them into wedges. Melt the butter with a little extra virgin olive oil, add garlic and sauté, add the pounded lard, the blanched potatoes and dice small. Season with salt and pepper, add the vegetables and keep cooking for some more minutes. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, toss it in a sauté pan with the vegetable ragout, adding the tomatoes. Before taking off the heat, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. IFSE - Italian Food Style Education Photo Marco Beltramo
INTERNATIONAL GELATO MACHINES High quality production, long term warranty (2 years), low water and energy consumption, simplicity of use and maintenance, efficient and quick making of gelato: these are the distinctive features of Valmar gelato machines, which are highly appreciated by many international customers. Valmar was founded more than 20 years ago in Nuova Goriza, Slovenia, and now its machines are installed in famous professional schools: in France the Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona in Tain l’Hermitage, the École Nationale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie (ENSP) in Yssingeaux and the École des Dessert d’Alain Chartier in Theix. “The presence of our machines in these schools – explains Luigi Ardizzone, sales manager –, it is not only a source of pride, but it is also a strategic point because of the many professionals from all over the world that can appreciate Valmar. We choose to be in the places where tomorrow’s professionals are trained”. www.valmar.eu
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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
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THE PASTRY WORLD MEETS IN LYON
TEAMS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE COMPETING IN LYON IN THE 11TH EDITION OF THE COUPE DU MONDE DE LA PÂTISSERIE (WORLD PASTRY CUP), ON OCCASION OF THE 15TH SIRHA. EMMANUELE FORCONE (SUGAR), DOMENICO LONGO (ICE), AND DAVIDE COMASCHI (CHOCOLATE) ARE THE MEMBERS OF THE ITALIAN TEAM. www.cmpatisserie.com
The Italian team (in the front row) with some of the sponsors and trainers. From left, Enrico Bardini of Agrimontana, Giancarlo Cortinovis, Vittorio Santoro of Cast Alimenti, Luca Gennai of Irinox, Livia Chiriotti of "Pasticceria Internazionale", Alessandro Dalmasso and Tamar Marchand of Valrhona.
THE ITALIAN TEAM THANKS ITS SPONSORS
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My world has changed. My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh速, Irinox.
Multi Fresh速, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling. Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh速 offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh速 a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.
T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com