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Editor’s Note Hello everyone and welcome back to another edition of everything Borneo, as the team and I continue doing what we do best, while in the face of a pandemic that continues to affect the lives of our brothers and sisters across the border. From Sabahans and Sarawakians, to our friends in Kalimantan, and now Brunei too, the BiG Team is hoping for the best. We are all truly in it together now, so continue to be careful and look out for one another. So, what’s on the menu this quarter? Well, figuratively: we picked the brains of interesting personas that have boosted the local and global F&B industry in their own unique ways. Such as the award winning culinary writer Bryan Koh of Singapore whose latest cookbook is a spotlight on Bornean fare. Then there’s the Black Hole Group’s Kamal Mustafa – also of Singapore – an individual so friendly that I believe he exerts more gravity than the celestial phenomenon his organisation is named for, attracting others to his movement. We also share the latest, unexpected finds around the Island, and reminisce about the fun traditional festivals, music and food that Covid-19 has forced us to skip. Not all musical pursuits have hit the wall however, with Sarawak’s Sape Sweetheart, Alena Murang, having made productive use of her time to complete, and release her Sky Songs album, and her Warrior’s Spirit music video. Brava! What else is on the menu? Well, literally: I ate ramen and hot sauce, followed by some hot sauce and ramen, which was all washed down with … yes, that is correct … more ramen and hot sauce. With several ramen specialty shops having popped up in Brunei in recent times, as well as established eateries throwing their noodles into the bowl, we were prompted to follow the increasingly vocal trail of breadcrumbs on the social grapevine. This led to the Impiana Complex, central Kiulap’s latest place to dine and shop. With a high tenant occupancy rate we are glad to report this new addition has avoided the fate that has befallen a few other complexes in the Sultanate. Now, as much as I would like to blame the rivulets of sweat flowing down my brow and neck, on tropical weather and climate change, to do so would be a lie. The real perpetrators are our Island’s up-and-rising hot sauce producers. From Spicy Origins, and VolcoVenture, to the Borneo Trading Company – I hold all of you responsible for my tingling taste buds, too many empty milk cartons, and even more sweat-soaked tissues. Feel free to stop by with more samples. My supply is running low and I still have a little bit of tongue left. Till next we meet, be good to one another.

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8 contents

BiG PASSION 24 Bryan Koh: The Guest at the Bornean Table 26 Serendipitous BiG FEATURE 28-31: Getting Jalapeno Business BiG BUZZ Ears to the ground: What’s been buzzing around town and the region 32 Yelo 33 The Alter Ego Exhibition BiG APPETITE We try the food so you can follow suit

18 BiG Scoop

BiG ADVERTORIAL 6 A message from Imagine BiG TRAIL 8 Hello Impiana BiG FOCUS 10 Good things to come 12 Festival Munchies 13 Beneath the Sunhat Dome 14 Bringing music to life

BiG SCOOP Things we want, seen, and heard this quarter 16 Big finds around Brunei 18 To be clad in Strength and honour 19 Let’s talk paulitics BiG CRAVING 20 Miso Hungry 22 Love for Noodles: Soy Ramentic 23 We Chews You

www.bruneitourism.travel | www.sabahtourism.com | www.sarawaktourism.com

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36 Brunei food reviews 38 Sarawak & Sabah restaurant reviews 40 Restaurant listings in Brunei 46 Restaurant listings in Borneo BiG SCREEN Our latest round of recommended films 54 Our visual 7-course meal 56 Movies to look out for this quarter BiG Feature

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Impiana! Rozman Mashor

iulap is a heavily frequented locale but with the past decade focused on developing its outer edge one can be forgiven for overlooking the new Impiana Complex that seemingly sprouted out of nowhere. Opened to tenants in the third quarter of 2020, it has avoided the fate that befalls many commercial complexes here, ultimately becoming hollow shells of potential. Here however, is a building that has thus far accomplished the opposite.

There are several types of businesses here, but focus people, it’s all about priorities which right now is my stomach demanding I think less and walk into the first eatery I come across. Here lies the problem. Choices, choices, choices! And good ones too. Oh man, where to eat?

Let’s see, if we work our way from the ground up, then there is the gelatinous-goody filled Ahmit’s Delicacy Café and its old-school vibes, serving up colourful local kueh. The modern grey interior of Nas Eatery is a great escape from the glare of the sun as you enjoy the international fare. Wang’s Kitchen offers both eastern and western cuisine in its small space that is a modern take on a kopitiam, while Amsarra Ramen & Grill have diverged slightly away from its staple by venturing into ramen, giving other providers a run for their money. On that note, the upper floors are home to the Japanese eateries – Dashi, and Kokoro – both of which have been promoting their soupy Ramen too. Nasi Talam is a great stop for authentic Bruneian food, and though you can enjoy yourself here solo it is

definitely a place geared toward groups. For a taste of Thailand, Bann Nucha has extended their reach by opening a branch here, while the Shabu Shabu Ice Bar has rented a pretty big space on the top floor because, you know, they just had to have a tree inside. Dessert anyone? Yonique Froyo or Gelato Haven. Take your pick, you can’t go wrong. One portrays itself as exciting with a neon ambience in hues of blue, purple, and pink, while the other has a warmer and quieter vibe. Wandering around with a full stomach I realise there are more tenants than I thought. For electronic, gadget or repair needs there is a Connex on hand with a spacious interior, as well as a Gadzilla (love their logo), Antech Enterprises and a CS Service Centre. Looking to spruce yourself up a little? Then head on in to Paloma and pick up something for your skincare needs, or you can place an order with Click & Collect from their digital catalogue. Aestrella is the complexes go-to if you want some bling-bling for your wrist,

ears or neck, while Bright Optics caters to your visual needs – after all the eyes are the soul’s window to the wider world. Clothes and fabric wise, we have Mudaser, Koleksi Husnaa, Dona J, and the Street Kings themselves and their colourful cool caps. From the Binsufri wedding store, and the Beragam retail store that brings in prayer mats and shawls, to interior design materials supplier Hock Ling, there is a little bit of something for everyone. It’s not all play though as there is a spic and span looking Audley Insurance office, and the HUB – a shared office and relaxation space for staff from an umbrella group of companies. That’s about it. Now if only there was a place where the adults could leave their kids to run around like sugar-hyped bulldozers of destruction. Oh wait. That would be the Rainbow Playground on the top floor. Well-played Impiana. •• IG: @impianajayacomplex FB: @ImpianaJayaComplexBN Tel: 673-714 3253

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Good Things to Come For the second year in a row the after effects of Covid-19 have prevented many indigenous groups from embracing their festive seasons in a grand manner. We miss seeing the colourful native dresses and costumes worn by women with bright eyes and beaming smiles. We miss the aggressive undercurrent of energy radiating from the wardress-clad men, warriors armed with shield and blade. We miss it all and thus keep our fingers crossed that 2022 will not see a three-peat occur. Until then, all we can do is reminisce and dream of bygone festivals, and those yet to come.

5 THINGS WE MISS ABOUT KAAMANTAN (MAY 30-31): Gorgeous Unduk Ngadau Beauty Pageant contestants Mysterious Bobohizan Priestesses Montoku rice wine, aka ‘Sabahan Vodka’ The elegant avian swaying of the Sumazau Dance Exotic fare such as Hinava, Bambangan, and Butod

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5 THINGS WE MISS ABOUT IRA ACO LUN BAWANG (JUNE 1): The Nguip Suling bamboo flute band The bamboo Angklung musical performance Beefy Tug-of-War contests Alluring Ruran Ulung Beauty Pageant contenders The show of unity between the Lun Bawang and their peers from Sabah, the Lun Dayeh

5 THINGS WE MISS ABOUT GAWAI DAYAK (JUNE 1-2): Stunning Kumang & Keling Gawai Beauty Pageant participants Nimble and deft Magunatip bamboo pole dance Blowpipe skill-of-arms Great food such as Sarang Semut, Cuwan, Kui Sepit, and Ngelulun Pulut. It’s not really a party without some Tuak. Need we say more?

ERAU (SEPTEMBER 28):

DID YOU KNOW … Erau means crowded, noisy, and joyful. The Mengulur Naga is a colourful dragon procession. Participants spray each other with water during Belimbur. The weeklong event has evolved from a traditional 14th Century festival, to an international folklore festival in 2009 with 11 participating countries. The festival was originally held to inaugurate new kings in Kalimantan back in the day.

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Festival Munchies Festivals are a great source of cheap and cheerful traditional foods, and while all of these dishes can be enjoyed outside the confines of cultural celebrations, everything just seems to taste nicer when the mood and setting is right. From Gawai Dayak, Kaamantan, Erau, and Irau Aco Lun Bawang, how many – if any – of these dishes have you tried?

PANSOH MANOK An absolute must have Iban delicacy during Gawaii. Think about it. Chicken, lemongrass, garlic, red onion, galangal, ginger and chilies – all chopped up and stuffed into a bamboo shoot. By cooking the shoots over a fire, the flavours get locked in, resulting in juicy and tender chicken, and flavourful gravy. Mmm-Mmm!

TUHAU Immensely popular in Sabah, this wild ginger dish is surprisingly difficult to source outside of the state; therefore not all Malaysians are familiar with it. It has a distinctive smell and tangy flavour. It is versatile, and can be eaten as an appetiser, made into a spicy sambal, or cooked with salted fish.

INGREDIENTS:

BAMBANGAN A wild seasonal mango that is endemic to Borneo, and popular with the Kadazan-Dusuns during Kaamantan. It is known for its acid sweet pulpy flesh, which sometimes has a mild banana flavour, and thick edible skin that can be pickled and dipped in Sambal Belacan. Good for pickling, curries, stir-fries, fish dishes, or even just with plain white rice. PICKLED BAMBANGAN

INGREDIENTS:

2 to 3 unripe Bambangan Keep the seeds Bird’s Eye Chillies Salt (taste to self-preference)

(4 servings) 5-8 stems of Tuhau 5 bird’s eye chillies 1 lime Shrimp paste Salt (taste to self preference)

DIRECTIONS

Peel the hard outer skin of the Tuhau stem, remove the soft part inside, and then chop it finely into a bowl. Mash the bird’s eye chillies, and mix it with the chopped Tuhau stem. Add salt and squeeze the lime juice into the mixture. Stir well to ensure flavour is evenly spread. Leave the mixture to sit and marinate for around 15-20 minutes, and before you know it, your Tuhau is ready to be served.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

A simple dish often prepared on the eve of Gawaii, and it is as simple as it gets. Glutinous rice roasted within enclosed bamboo shoots over a fire. Once ready, slice the shoot lengthways and then scrape the harvest festival’s bounty onto a plate.

INGREDIENTS:

1kg glutinous rice 1kg coconut milk Salt and sugar (taste to self preference) Bamboo logs

DIRECTIONS:

Wash and soak the glutinous rice for a maximum of 3 hours. Mix the rice, coconut milk, salt and sugar in a bowl. Pour the mixture into the bamboo logs and roast over a wood/charcoal fire for 30 to 40 minutes. Don’t forget to flip the logs for even heat coverage. Scrape the rice out and enjoy!

DIRECTIONS:

Peel the Bambangan, then slice the pulp into cubes Split and then grate the inner portion of the seed. Mix all of the ingredients Put the mixture into a container, cover it tightly, and keep it at room temperature for 1 week. Nice and simple.

NGELULUN PULUT

@expatgo.com

1kg whole chicken, cut into small pieces 8 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 5 red onions, finely chopped 6 stalks of lemongrass, thinly sliced 100g of galangal, finely chopped 20g bungkang leaves (‘daun salam’ or ‘dry bay leaf’) 10 red chillies, sliced 1 tbsp salt Bamboo log or aluminium foil 5 stalks tapioca leaves

DIRECTIONS:

Wash and clean the chicken Mix all of the ingredients (except the last 2) and combine it with the chicken. Let it sit for at least 20 minutes. Stuff the mixture into the bamboo log or aluminium foil. Seal it close with a gob of tapioca leaves. Cook slowly over burning wood/ charcoal for 45 minutes, or bake at 120 degrees Celcius for 30 minutes. To serve: Remove the tapioca leaves, and then drain the gravy into a bowl. Then extract the chicken and arrange on a serving plate with the gravy.

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B E N E A T H

T H E

Sunhat Dome

andemic or no, you just can’t keep a good songstress down, because guess who’s back again following the release of her second album on April 1, 2021? With 8 tracks comprising Alena Murang’s latest Sky Songs album: two of the tracks are instrumental performances and make use of traditional instruments such as the vocalist’s signature Sape. There are four songs performed in the Kelabit dialect, one in the Kenyah dialect, as well as a song in English. The album comes packaged with a booklet of lyrics with English translations for those of us whose foreign language skills are rusty.

SKY SONGS 1: Gitu’an 2: We Watched the Clouds 3: Maya’ 4: Warrior Spirit (pictured above) 5: Thunder & the Moon 6: Put Burui 7. Sunhat Song 8. Meno’

I chose to sing in Kenyah and Kelabit Languages because I want to keep them alive. Speaking to her audience during a media launch session, Elena says “The album is called Sky Songs because it is a representation of our ancestors and how sacred our lives on Earth are. There are stories of our great ancestors who used to live in the skies and travelled to earth through a waterfall. And now, when we look up to the skies and see graceful white clouds, or bright sparkly stars, or darkness, and it reminds us to stay grounded and live like a community with all living things as we depend on each other. Our ancestors had a special relationship with the universe, from the sun to the sky, the trees and all living things. They said that the sky was like a big sunhat dome and all earthly creation lay beneath. And because of that too, I chose to sing in Kenyah

and Kelabit Languages because I want to keep them alive. Language represents a myriad of things you see in life – your people and the community, as well as your perception towards life and realities. Therefore, this album is my way of preserving our beautiful heritage in hope that it is still there for our children and the future generations to accept and appreciate.” More recently the artist known as Sarawak’s Sape Sweetheart reached out to the other end of her cultural spectrum to showcase the inner strength of her heritage. This resulted in the Warrior Spirit music video that we recommend you all check out on Youtube. Co-produced by Kanid

Studio and Project Room, the performance features Alena’s bandmates – Joshua Maran, Jonathan Wong Ketshin, Herman Ramanado and Jimmy Chong – who were instrumental to the creation of a track that incorporates elements of rock music. Inspired by a Sape folk tune that tells the story of a warrior watching the rising morning mist, the video just hums with quiet strength and a building intensity as Alena and her crew of dancers garbed in red and black sway to the rhythm. Like a plucked sape string that reverberates a cultural message of pride and resilience throughout the ages to the modern day era. More please.

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Bringing music to Life

Music is a universal language. It is an exercise in human creativity, a mode for expression and storytelling. It is a therapeutic retreat that we all need (often!) in order to get by, and often just a good and fun way to spend your time when you need to unwind. Borneans are no exception and over the centuries have crafted instruments all their own. Here are a few of the more recognisable and popular traditional instruments used by indigenous groups throughout the world’s third largest island.

SAPE Popular across all Borneo generally, and Sarawak specifically – the Sape – which is carved from a single bole of wood, is a four-stringed member of the lute family. Used by various Orang Ulu groups such as the Kayan, Kelabit, Kenyah, and Penan, it has an elongated body, a short neck, and is often made from durable and lightweight Meranti. The hollow interior acts as a resonator, and before craftsman started using nylon for the strings, they used strings made from the Sago tree. Its Sabahan counterpart is the long-necked Sundatang lute.

TONGKUNGON/TOGUNGGAK Belonging to the idiophone class of instruments made of resonant solid material – such as wood, stone, metal – the wooden Togunggak are mainly played solo for personal entertainment. However, in the absence of gong ensembles it can be played for dancing processions and festivals. Used primarily by the Dusun, Kadazan, and Murut groups, a single set can range between 6 to 30 individual pieces.

GULINGTANGAN Popular in Brunei and often played during events in modern day times, as well as ceremonies, festivals, and royal court functions back in the day, the instrument can either be played solo or assume the lead role as part of the Gulingtangan Orchestra. The lengthy row of brass gongs are struck, producing high to low pitch tones, while the other four instruments – gongs, tawak-tawak, gandang labik, and the canang – act as beat-pacers. Part of the wider Southeast Asia gong-chime culture, Gulingtangan variants across the region have existed for centuries.

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PAGANG Known to the west as the tubular shaped bamboo zither, the Pagang – as it is known in Borneo – is widespread throughout the region. Long suspected to have Polynesian origins, variants have been seen in the Philippines, Indonesia, Korea, Japan, and China. There is a theory that it even travelled along the Austronesian route and ended up in Madagascar, where they are called Valiha. Plucking the strings, which are lifted out of the tube’s skin and held in place by wedges, causes the narrow slit along its length to vibrate as a resonator.

GABANG Borneo’s resident xylophone, which is called the Gabang and used by the Bajau tribes of Sabah, is technically an import, having arrived on our island from The Philippines. The top is made of 12 bamboo keys on average (the number varies), which are struck by a beater made of wood and rubber. It is the resonating case that gives extra personality as they tend to be decorated with tribal artwork and designs.

SILINGUT/TURALI It’s a nose flute! How cool and difficult that must be to play. Known to Sarawakians as the Selengut, and to Sabahans as the Turali, these flutes are often played solo as personal entertainment, and a way to express oneself. Most Lotud Dusuns use it for expressing happiness by imitating their traditional songs, while Kadazan Dusuns often express melancholy by copying the stylised crying of female mourners during a wake. Novice priestesses of the Rungus use them to help memorise the melodies of ritual chants. Different strokes for different folks.

SOMPOTON The use of the Sompoton is prevalent among Kadazan, Dusun and the Murut societies in Sabah, who often play them as an accompaniment to dancing. Eight bamboo pipes are formed like a double raft and inserted into a gourd. The player blows and sucks air through the gourd while covering and uncovering the ends of the shortest pipes and three small openings cut in the base of the shortest pipe. The front and back pipes of the longer raft are for fingers on the left hand. The result? Think of a cross between a conventional mouth organ and a bagpipe, minus the high-pitch shrillness.

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Beady Eyes SZR’s beaded bags are handcrafted so delicately that us nonnimble fingered beings can’t help but be in awe at the intricacy of it all. We happen to be nostalgic creatures by nature so we have a thing about “old things made new” and with beading embraced as a traditional art form, how could we not swoon at the sight of these stunning crafts of love? Sleek and sophisticated yet fun and feminine, these beaded bags are easy-on-the-eyes and have been previously released in an exciting range of colours from earthy tones to festive vibrance. Speaking of a love of beads, sole beader and founder of SZR Safiah finds beauty in its versatility, “I can literally draw anything I want with beads. You can get so creative with it, almost like a painting except in a different medium”. An artist and designer in her own right, Safiah envisions her beaded creations as “wearable art” with a lengthy and iterative creative process, spanning from the use of mood boards and sketches to set the aesthetic and tone of each collection. (“It’s the thought and work that goes behind the scenes that makes it a piece of art!”—we couldn’t agree more). There’s much to be said about the way an artist feels towards their craft and Safiah is no exception, striving for a personal sense of satisfaction when developing defined concepts to create cohesive well-put-together pieces. Exclusivity also plays a hand in the allure with a very limited amount being produced for each collection, so if you want to get your hands on one, even more reason to follow SZR on Instagram for their latest updates! The latest collection Bloom, which, unfortunately for us, sold out within a span of a few days is inspired by “the change of season at this time; the blooming of flowers and fruits—a symbol of growth and beauty”. Beauty indeed is in the eye of the beholder and, in this case, the beaded bag to own. •• IG: @szr.hands

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THE SPEARHEAD CHRONICLES Design & Creative Industries major Sahriz Azim Sahrun, who we first met at the UBD Spectrum Exhibition held in April, struck us with his sheer tenacity in creating a high-fantasy universe as part of his final year project. Whipping up a 166-page storyline over a whopping ten weeks, Sahriz lists his passion for telling stories as his driving force behind his many fields in the creative scene which includes filmmaking and writing. The storyline in question is part of a trilogy series called “The Spearhead Chronicles” and revolves around four individuals hailing from three different kingdoms who face a dark chain of events ultimately unfolding an inevitable millennium-long prophecy. Despite listing Tolkien and George R. R. Martin’s A Song of Ice & Fire series among his inspirations and references, Sahriz admits to feeling the pinch of the big shoes he has to fill as he anticipates the indeterminate future and reception of highfantasy genre books locally. In building his own literary world from the ground up, the budding author also mentioned his deep-felt appreciation for the intense writing process, from burning the midnight oil right down to the many, many cups of coffee. The Spearhead Chronicles was a gem we were not expecting to find and we can’t wait to see what else he has in store! •• IG: @sahriz.azim.sahrun E: sahriz.sahrun@gmail.com Tel: 673-7156436

Guan Hock Lee

Fluff Piece “Ooh heaven is a place on earth” and for local creative Khaliilah, that is a multi-level craft store jam packed with all the craft materials one could ever want or need. But let’s take it back a notch! If unique, hand-painted pillows are your thing then welcome, you’ve come to the right

place. Fluff by Khaliilah makes customizable pillows that beg for a double-take upon first glance with multi-textured designs gracing their faces (our particular favourite being the “Girls’ Night In” pillow collection inspired by traditional dishes and local kuihs available at local street

food markets—think nasi lemak cushions and pulut panggang pillows!). The pillows, mainly made with cotton fabric and sometimes felt, aren’t the only thing she’s good at making— Khaliilah also readily accepts commissions for other things such as zippered pouches and tissue box covers, thanks to her affinity for handcrafting and exploring her creative side at arts and crafts’ markets since an early age. As to why she prefers creating her pillows by hand, “I feel that the results are more satisfying when it’s crafted by hand as it becomes more unique or exclusive to that particular Fluff even though the design has been used before”. To get your hands on your own customized Fluff, just shoot her a DM on Instagram and get ready to be fluffed away! •• IG: @FluffbyKhaliilah

Supporting local businesses is a wonderful cause that we stand by wholeheartedly— but there is also certainly something to be said about our dire love for goodies from abroad. Caramel popcorn from Germany? Don’t mind if we do. Frozen popsicles from Australia? Let’s rush home after this to pop this in the freezer. Unique condiments and sauces that will help to elevate our meals beyond what we’re used to? Heck yes! And when the mood strikes us, Guan Hock Lee is often a beacon of light, beckoning us towards its brightly lit glass storefront and enticing us with hard-to-find goodies. First established in 1950 as one of Brunei’s oldest importers and distributors of gourmet food products, the much-loved store recently opened its newest branch in Setia Kenangan! With its usual impressive range of gourmet food products including seafood, dairy products, snacks and other specially imported items, excuse us while we rejoice at having yet another destination to fulfill our overseas cravings. •• D5-6, Setia Kenangan 2, Spg 150-17-20, Kg Kiarong, Bandar Seri Begawan Opens daily: 11am-8pm Tel: 673-2233452 (Kiulap) / 8831288 (WhatsApp) IG: @guanhocklee

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To Be Clad in Strength and Honor

“She is clothed with strength and honor” is the dignified verse that powers sustainable Sabahbased clothing brand, The Honor Clothing, to keep on running fullsteam ahead. With strength and honor literally inspiring the design and ideation process of owner and designer Phylicia and her team— for an aesthetically minimalistic clothing brand, there’s a lot to be said about the handmade pieces themselves. When talking about the sustainable production process, her answer did not disappoint our environmentally-aware selves, “We endeavor to always choose handmade over mass-produced and to resist cutting corners at all costs” she says referring to their garment manufacturer in Bali who shares the same socially-responsible values of paying fair wages, using natural fabrics, and all

round, creating a better future with the right foundations—and it is paying off. Their bestseller, the Diana dress, is a dream in neutral linen and a classic, vintage summer piece that’s been restocked three times already since its release. The dress itself came about as a stroke of cultural inspiration from Phylicia and her creative assistant Amanda who wanted the strap detail to replicate the elegance of a Kadazan woman performing a traditional Sumazau dance. When asked about future plans for The Honor Clothing, Phylicia mentions that they are currently working on new clothing material made from waste pineapple leaf fibre—which we think reflects the nature of the brand perfectly and is, therefore, just as profoundly cool. •• W: www.thehonorclothing.com IG & FB: @thehonorclothing

Domes in Sweden Bringing Little Sweden vibes to North Borneo are four Sabahan friends, who, after a trip to Sweden were struck by the prominence of architecture and design throughout the country. Envisioning a space of modern and contemporary design while having a minimalistic feel that would ebb and flow with the surrounding greenery, the four friends came up with Umea Glam Kundasang and the four domes that have been attracting curious souls from all over. Named Narvik, Abisko, Kiruna and Gallivare after railways spanning beautiful Scandinavian mountains and natural landscapes in between Northern Sweden and Norway, Umea itself is an Eastern Sweden city known for its cultural institutions and museums. While the names itself have nothing to do with the actual location (“we just love it, it sounds magical and beautiful to us”—we absolutely agree!), Kundasang itself knows a thing or two about scenic mountains and dreamy valleys 18

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

making it a natural choice. The seethrough geodesic domes itself are a wonderful reprieve from the norm, housing four people at each time, each planted on its own platform for full privacy and fully-furnished with a private bathroom and a kitchenette right outside its door. “We were inspired to build something different which is why we combined all the elements of a naturefocused yet modern camping environment for our guests to enjoy the beauty of nature all while being a part of it”, the owners mention. “We want them to make memorable moments with their loved ones while also promoting awareness and inspiring a sense

of necessity to preserve and protect beautiful nature”. Great ambitions lead to great results! And not that you’ll need it…but did we mention the domes also come with WiFi and a resident phat cat called “Si Gumuk”?

Glamping, here we come! •• Jalan Golf Course, Mesilau, Kundasang, Sabah W: umeaglam-kundasang.com IG: @umeaglam.kundasang FB: umeaglamkundasang

biG scoop

LET’S TALK PAULITICS sketch resembles a story in the midst of unfolding. As for the tinge of nostalgia embedded in his periodic sketches, it all becomes clearer when you realize that Paul’s familial origins stem from Malacca and Penang— both historic colonial cities predominantly known for their strong cultural values and heritage. He also mentions growing up and being surrounded by all sorts of Peranakan personalities in his grandfather’s coffee shop—the very same Peranakan characters that frequent Paul’s sketches, so much that they’ve been neatly compiled and printed into a small

SAPANA LIVING

They say the best kind of art makes you question things. And looking at Paul Ooi’s artwork, we definitely had some burning questions of our own. Have we stumbled across an isolated frame from a deconstructed comic strip? Who are these characters and, more importantly, where can we see more of them?! After directing these questions at Paul himself, we finally got some answers. Alluding to his preference of using a comic book format for his sketches, the avid fan of graphic novels and comics says, “I like thinking of what’s going to happen and what might happen next” which explains why each

book of Peranakan sketches that can be purchased in art and lifestyle shop, PaKat store (which Paul also happens to be halfowner of!). A doctor by profession and a doodler by passion, follow Paul on Instagram for your dose of whimsical characters and ingenious sketches. •• IG: @pauliticalart

Bringing “dream house” realness one step closer to you is Sapana Living, an artisanal lifestyle furniture store based in Kuching. The word sapana itself stems from the Nepali word for “dream” but besides making your interior fantasies come true, the store itself also began as a dream for founder Catherine. An eye-opening trip to Nepal in 2011 not only revealed her true calling in interior design but also an affinity and a keen sense of appreciation for artisanal crafts and the artful talents of craftsmen. Since

2016, the store has been a clear ode to this passion, representing an artisanal melting pot of South Asian and Southeast Asian workmanship where ethical practices and eco-friendly materials such as manik, rattan and bidriware are brought together hand-in-hand in the form of beautiful furniture made to last and truly one-of-a-kind. Aside from interior design consultancy, Sapana also works closely with local artisans to take care of the other facets of your home such as lighting, wallpaper and carpentry. Offering “East Meets West” diversity in their traditional and modern selection of furniture and home décor, dip your feet into the best of both worlds in the comfort of a store that inspires you to personalize your own living space to your exact liking. •• Lot 98, Jalan Abell, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia IG: @sapanaliving Tel: 6082-257 798 Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

Miso

craving

Hungry! I

s it just we thinking this, or has ramen suddenly become so immensely popular a dish that it has become the main focus of a few new Brunei eateries that have opened in recent times? Oh well, given how nice Japanese soup noodles are, we’re not complaining. With all of these choices suddenly available to us, we decided to check out five locales that we have been hearing a lot about lately on the grapevine.

DASHI Dashi is currently one of only two Japanese noodle houses in Brunei where you can source a through-and-through vegetarian ramen, and it’s pretty good. Called Yasei Ramen – the dish is made up of mushrooms, bok choy, corn, and seaweed, as well as the staple fresh yellow noodles all within a bowl of steaming vegetable broth. With sesame seeds floating on the surface, the dark hued broth has that lovely mushroom essence to it, which I found strong enough to make a healthy substitute for the deep beef broth flavour that the palate of the more carnivorous among us desire. Dashi – whose name is a Japanese word for a family of stocks used for miso, broths and soups – also offers a Miso Ramen, and an Ebi Ramen on their menu. Also specialising in dumplings, with a few other dishes and snacks, the warm glow of amber lights within the primarily wooden interior adds a physical splash of Japan to the mix that we found welcoming. •• Unit F7, Lvl 1, Impiana Jaya Complex, Kiulap IG: @dashi.bn Tel: 673-2429015

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

AMSARRA RAMEN & GRILL WEI’S KITCHEN (NON-HALAL) After 5 years of pursuing culinary studies, as well as working in a restaurant in Japan – the friendly and quick-to-smile Wei – came home in 2020. With a bellyful of love for ramen, the founder of Wei’s Kitchen operates from his residence. The niche that he has carved out was born from observing that there were no non-Halal options for non-Muslim diners craving a traditional Japanese pork ramen … until late February 2021 when he began welcoming hungry visitors. With 4 different ramens (we recommend the Tonkotsu, and the Miso), it is very important to note that it matters not if you are family or a stranger – first come, first serve, and seating is limited to around 10 people at a time 1 – so you had better get there before we do! The Tonkotsu comes with a cloudy and slightly rich and creamy chicken based broth that is pleasantly aromatic. As opposed to a runny yolk, Wei cures his eggs himself. They are drier but possess that slightly muted salty taste we all love. Considering a few Japanese nationals have given the kitchen their approval – do I really need to say more? •• No 1, Spg 74-41-31, Kg Mata-Mata, Gadong IG: @weiskitchen2021 Tel: 673-8982278 / 7179966

But, but … they specialise in Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine! Why on earth would I order a ramen there? We’ll tell you why! Because despite this being the Amsarra brand’s first commercial foray into this specialty, it is one they are so far doing very well in. With up to eight different dishes covering beef, lamb, chicken and a nice variety of seafood options, the portions are also quite large. The chicken broth is full and cloudy, while the beef broth is clear and slightly sweet – both are flavoursome that this first-time trip here left a great aftertaste. Even though I only managed to try the Unagi Ramen, and the Smoked Chicken Ramen, I was impressed. The interior is also textbook Japan and the tsunami mural is a nice touch. Nicely done Amsarra Ramen & Grill, nicely done. •• No 1, Spg 74-41-31, Kg Mata-Mata, Gadong IG: @amsarra_shawarma Tel: 673-7318545

MATCHA MANA Starting off as your go-to Matchaanything specialists, the operation’s business model in play has evolved considerably in its short lifespan, with the latest stage of its growth expanding to encompass ramen. I like the slightly itemised approach with diners having the option for a small or large bowl, an egg or none, and your choice of broths: Shoyu (clear brown soya sauce-based), Spicy Miso, and vegetarian/vegan. If you want a bit of punch but not too much of a kick then you can opt for the Spicy Miso Ramen to either have the spice level reduced or have the chili oil separated for you to add in yourself, though the spice is more aromatic and flavourful then it is hot we found. With a cute interior offering street views of Bandar, Matcha Mana proved to be an unexpected treasure. Be sure to try for yourself if you haven’t already. Who knows, your support might lead to them operating a specialty ramen bar one day. •• G1 & G4 Bangunan Haji Ahmad, Jalan Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin, Bandar Seri Begawan. IG: @matcha.mana Tel: 673-2222095 / 7310150

KOKORO Am I still in Brunei? Walking into Kokoro, I am immediately transported from a world of heat and glare to one of dark, chilledout tones, and a jazzy-cyberpunk vibe. This ramen and Izikaya specialist is open to everyone but is especially appealing to young working professionals courtesy of its ambience and atmosphere. Custom-designed wallpaper representing aspects of Japan, which took the sole artist a full month to create, covers the entirety of one stretch of wall. At one end is a dark steel bar set-up that stirs memories of the co-owners’ time spent in London and Melbourne. With the intent of creating something different and a space to escape to, the establishment’s ease of access to super fresh and high-end ingredients, results in a menu as impressive as the aesthetics. With an initial four ramen dishes, the menu has since expanded to 9. These are the new kids on the block and everyone wants to hang out there. Pro Tip everyone – call in advance for a booking! •• Unit 3, Lvl 1, Impiana Jaya Complex, Kiulap IG: @Kokoro.bn Tel: 673-8883324

Brunei

Sabah

Love For Noodle: Soy J

ust like their countrymen and women next door, Sabahans are also dealing with a Movement Control Order limiting what retail and business sectors are allowed to operate. Fortunately, eateries are still in business and are also utilising pick-up, takeaway, and delivery services to the max in order to get by. Also, just like their neighbours, that craving for a good ramen is going to pop up eventually. So, let’s save you some time shall we? Here are three reputable ramen specialists who deserve a nod.

ICHIZO RAMEN Takeaway & Delivery

AORI RAMEN Takeaway & Delivery

RAMEN KUMO Takeaway & Delivery

An establishment set up a little over 3 years ago: Ichizo Ramen makes use of the culinary skills of a Japanese Chef to entice their clientele with an authentic experience. The ramens here, regardless of type, are each available in 4 different ways, with additional ingredients being added depending on the option of your choice. The Soy Sauce Ramen, for example, comes as a standard bowl with noodles, pieces of chicken, kikurage mushrooms, spring onions, spinach, and seaweed. The 3 additional options as part of its tier include adding a softboiled egg, or chicken chasu, or both as part of the special. Not good enough? No worries! You have the option to add on extra toppings to suit your taste yet further. From Hokkaido Miso Ramen and Tokyo Shoyu Ramen, to Seafood & Chicken Soup Ramen, suffice it to say you have interesting choices! •• Unit Part of 1-37, 1st Flr, Suria Sabah Shopping Mall, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, 88000 Kota Kinabalu Open: 11am – 3pm & 5pm – 8pm FB: Ichizo Ramen IG: @ichizoramen Tel: 6088-416684

Despite having other offerings on their menu (no complaints here), Aori Ramen is representative of the Food & Beverage industry in Japan in the sense that it is primarily a ramen-oriented joint. The firm and springy noodles coupled with thick and flavourful homemade broth, along with a variety of toppings is testament to how hearty this dish is. With four types available from the signature Aori Ramen and Miso Ramen, to the Aori Ramen Lite, and Mazeman Dry Ramen, you can enjoy your meal within the comfort of an eatery that has obviously invested a fair bit into its interior and overall aesthetics. Inspired by the Ichiran Ramen Franchise the eatery has individually-partitioned counters for solo slurping and avoiding conversation. When food is this good, less-talk-more-eat. •• Lot Level 1, 11 Jesselton Mall 88000, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah Open: 11am – 7pm FB: Aori Ramen Kota Kinabalu IG: @aoriramenkk Tel: 6011-65588639

Embarking on a mission to bring some seriously tasty joy to society, both the owner and chef of Ramen Kumo – who are Japanese nationals – take immense pride in the quality of their offerings. These fellows caught my attention courtesy of how willing they are to not just engage with their clientele on social media, but to go as far as sharing the feedback they received with the public and announcing how they will rectify the issue. Don’t worry; the feedback covers issues that do not pertain to the food itself, as that is consistently delicious according to reviews left by the general public. With Soy Sauce Ramen and Tonkotsu Ramen being their specialty, it was nice to see Mazesoba Dry Ramen being offered earlier this year as part of an MCO Promotion. As ramen is often preferred with a broth, it makes for a pleasant change. It’s the versatility that draws people back. •• Ground Floor, Lot 17-0, Lintas Plaza, Lorong Lintas 2, 88300, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah Open: 11am – 7pm FB: Ramen KUMO IG: @ramenkumo Tel: 6012-8652831

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG craving

We You

Chews KYUZU RAMEN Delivery & Pickup Located nearby the central stretch of the Miri River, the Ramen and Donburi specialists that Miri City residents fondly know as Kyuzu Ramen, are still going strong and doing everything they can to cater to their customers. These Japanese soul food providers receive consistently good reviews ranging from “one of the top ramen spots in the city” to “authentic and delicious” this eatery is currently accommodating their hungry clientele via delivery and pickup options. With 3 main ramen dishes including the Korean inspired fusion Kimchi Ramen, the Chicken Paitan Ramen, and their popular signature Tonkotsu Ramen, the flavours on offer will satisfy your palate and craving. With 10% discounts applied to pick ups, other deals available in collaboration with Food Panda, and free deliveries should you spend RM35 in a single bill. So the next time your belly starts growling, consider a ramen fix! •• 83, Jalan Krokop 10A, 98000 Miri, Sarawak, Malaysia Open: 11.30am – 8.30pm (Tues – Sun) FB: Kyuzu Ramen Tel: 6013-8566228

espite the continuing effects of Covid-19, many eateries – unlike other retail sectors – are permitted to operate across Sarawak under the terms and conditions of the latest Movement Control Order 3.0. The most common tactic that eateries have embraced to maintain operations are simple curbside deliveries or pickups for and by customers, for example. In support of a few of these businesses, while also catering to any Japanese soup dish cravings you yourself might have, here are three ramen specialty shops that we definitely recommend you try out, if you haven’t already.

RISING RAMEN Delivery & Takeaway Situated within the CityONE Megamall, in Kuching, is the Rising Ramen restaurant – an eatery where the head honcho is a Japanese owner and chef who applies his culinary knowledge to provide diners with an authentic experience of his homeland. With plentiful good reviews from the public for not just the ramen, but also the entirety of the menu – and one specific review claiming quite aggressively that it is the best spot in town – it’s safe to say this is a stop worth considering. There are 4 wet ramen dishes and they can come with either – AKA, a red and mildly spicy broth, while the Kuro has a bold chicken flavour with hints of garlic, the Shiro is derived from chicken and pork bones, and the well-known soybean based Miso. With 3 different sizes for each dish, we know you’ll find something to satisfy your taste buds! •• Unit G41, G43 & G43A, Ground Floor Mall 1, CityONE, Megamall, Jalan Song Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia Open: 11.30am – 8.30pm (Tues – Sun) FB: Rising Ramen IG: @risingramenmalaysia Tel: 6019-8840827

AJISEN RAMEN Takeaway Hidden within Kuching’s Vivacity Megamall is where the Ajisen Ramen specialist can be found. Belonging to the popular Japanese chain of ramen fast food eateries, this particular branch is the sole representative in Kuching City (with 4 more spread across Malaysia), and often focuses on white tonkotsu broth dishes. There are five different ramen offerings including the Cha Shu, Paiku, Seafood, Pork Shabu Miso, and last but not least, the Volcano Ramen! Considered one of the franchise’s more popular signature dishes, a chili paste made from a “secret recipe” (how interesting) is dunked on top of the noodles for you to mix at your pleasure. Often collaborating with Grabfood, this Japanese noodle house regularly offers promotions to diners, for that added convenience. So do check up on their social media accounts from time to time. •• Vivacity Megamall 93350 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia Open: Mon – Sun (10am – 8pm) FB: Ajisen Ramen Kuching IG: @ajisenramenkuching Tel: 6082-263787

Sarawak

During Bryan’s one-week stint to Brunei, another culinary notch on his Bornean bed post in preparation for his upcoming publication TAMU: A Guest at the Bornean Table, we leapt at the opportunity to pick at the workings of his mind and, of course, to get to know him better.

passion

Bryan Koh:

Armed with only a rhythmic thrum flowing through his veins, an instinct that puts him at one with the workings of any kitchen, Bryan Koh is, actually, a Mathematics major. But after realizing doing the math wasn’t his cup of tea, he was still reluctant to turn his cooking hobby into a full-blown career, taking a nuanced approach against the millennial mantra of “If you do what you love, you never have to work a day in your life”. To that Bryan says, “If your hobby is a form of escaping real life, once you make it your work it becomes very, very real indeed, especially if it’s something you feel passionate about and are very emotionally attached to, it can be quite difficult. There’s also the risk of having what other people think alter your own views about what you’re doing”. But amid the compromises and sacrifices made, needless to say, we’re very glad that he is where he is now—three books in and on the brink of a fourth.

The Guest at the Bornean Table

“W

hy is this strange Singaporean boy writing about Filipino food?” Bryan Koh muses, recalling things that have been said of his life’s work and decided undertakings. But in a nutshell, to put it simply, that is what the award-winning culinary writer thrives on doing. And yet, putting anything simply is the furthest thing from your mind when picking up one of his books. His words a thing of poetic beauty and his passion for, not just the regional and microregional food, but also the people and the cultures he comes across during his travels, jump out of the pages and threaten to charm you to the core.

Sheyenne J. Siah @Darren Gabriel Leow

Tamu: A Guest at The Bornean Table: Traversing the jungles of Borneo in his latest book set to be released later this year, Bryan travels across all three countries that constitute the world’s third-largest island in a quest to not only understand its cuisine but also its residents, both past and present. Starting with the epicenters of bustling activity that thrive while half the nation is still asleep— the tamus.

But away from the usual touristy excursions to local hot spots, of which there is a comforting surfeit of within the vicinity of the world’s third largest island, Bryan

BIBLIOGRAPHY

A sip of water restores my senses. I finally notice our ascent and, in the distance, a vista of sleeping giants. The Cordillera has rolled

out its mountains at last. Rugged, imposing, furry with trees,

“In Borneo, the bulk of its culinary treasures lie far beneath its lush surface… For the infiltered, undiluted, spirit required for this slow-simmering assembly, I had to travel away from the big cities and glittering coasts and head towards the island’s infuriating heart, where nature dictates diet and one’s wit survival, where the forest is both the grocer and pharmacy, where a trespasser may still be extinguished by a venom-laced dart.” indifferent to the piles of ash-stained cotton swelling overhead. Soon umbrellas will cover the Benguet

tapestry with the keenness of oyster mushrooms deflowering a damp birch log.

His research expeditions, peppered with interesting anecdotes, from his tour guide coming down with a case of the Hantavirus upon Bryan’s arrival to Kota Kinabalu to early breakfasts of bubur pedas with esteemed chefs, make for fascinating backdrops against the already-rich content and recipes. Speaking of the latter, it was particularly that fateful first meal of the day set in Singkawang in West Kalimantan with a Chef Yudha Pramanto that paved the way for the epiphany which eventually brought about the namesake of his latest book. Having recently experienced the daily pandemonium of a typical tamu morning in Tamparuli for the first time, the clamoring experience now has a special place in Bryan’s to-do list when visiting the states of Borneo as he deems any trip “would be incomplete without at least one such pilgrimage”. And it was upon learning from his friend that, coincidentally, the word tamu in Bahasa Indonesia translates to “guest” was it that the writer found himself striking gold and a working title for his present work decided upon.

Bryan Koh released his first book,

Milk Pigs & Violet Gold: Philippine

Cookery in 2014, which won the Best Food Book Award at the Philippine National Book Awards that year. His second book, 0451

When he isn’t weaving poetry into prose and writing about food and its origins, and when he isn’t trailing around Southeast Asia, researching and taking candid photos of candid situations, the sprightly and soft-spoken writer is in the kitchen (surprise, surprise!) baking decadent cakes and glorious kuehs for his cake company Chalk Farm.

Mornings are for Mont Hin Gar:

Burmese Food Stories won third place

in the Best Asian Cookbook category at the World Gourmand Cookbook Awards 2016. Milk Pigs’ second,

enriched, edition, entitled Milkier

Pigs & Violet Gold, was nominated for Best Travel Food Book at the World

Gourmand Cookbook Awards 2017.

M I L K I E &R p i g s v i ol e t g ol d

RAPID FIRE

Philippine food stories

Revised Edition

Milkier Pigs & Violet Gold: Nominated under the Best Travel Book category at the World Gourmand Cookbook Awards 2017, the enriched successor to Milk Pigs & Violet Gold continues to narrate the stories that recipes are often the windows to as Bryan travels further across the Philippines to Batanes, Cavite, South Cotabato and Samar.

QUESTIONS Bryan Koh, Owner of Chalk Farm and Award-winning Culinary Food Writer What is your favourite cuisine? Gosh it varies from day to day. What is your favourite today? I quite enjoy Indonesian food, Javanese, in particular. I like a salad called karedok. It’s quite good.

0451 Mornings are for Mont Hin Gar: A detailed exploration of regional Burmese cuisine in a foodcentered travelogue and recipe book takes readers on an enlightening journey through Burma’s vast and varied culinary landscape with richly illustrated food stories and comprehensive recipes of staple dishes as well as the lesser known. BK

From the award-winning author of “Milk Pigs & Violet Gold” & “0451 Mornings are for Mont Hin Gar”

BEKWOH

What’s your favourite dessert? Oh man. I like a lot of sweet things, that’s my problem. Apple crumble because I love crumbles! Favourite beverage? I do like a beer. In his third book, Bryan Koh explores the food of the states comprising Peninsula

Malaysia’s east coast: Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang.

Researched and written over

two years, Bekwoh takes the reader on

a sumptuous journey, from the tranquil

fishing villages of Terengganu to the bustle of Kota Bharu’s famous central market,

from the border town of Tumpat for khao

jam (Kelantanese Thai rice salad) to lemang

(grilled glutinous rice cakes) and rendang (dry beef curry) shacks in Pahang.

Essentially an East Coast term

for huge wok-like cooking vessels, bekwoh suggests abundance and big-heartedness,

and that is what Bryan serves up here, with

B E KWO H

With each of his previous publications centered around its own Southeast Asian cuisine (his first Milk Pigs & Violet Gold being an ode to Filipino cuisine with a second edition following not long after), it was only a matter of time before the seasoned traveller turned his attentions to Borneo with a book in mind.

detects another underlying layer with a far better essence of what he is truly on the hunt for. As an excerpt from the introduction of Tamu says:

m i l k i e r p i g s & v i ol e t g ol d

Truly passionate people are hard to miss and Bryan’s eagerness, an almost palpable need to learn and absorb everything there is to know about whatever is on his plate (and everyone else’s) is no exception to the rule. Then there’s also his own agenda to bring more exposure to the dishes he’s grown up with and their origins. “On the whole Asian food has very little exposure visà-vis Western food—at least in the literary realm. In a bookstore, you get endless sections on French food but when it comes to Asian food and Southeast Asian food, the offerings are quite lean.” Longing to see more elaborate representation and high-scale diversity within the reading aisles, Bryan has since graced us with hundreds of pages of his own duly done and beautifully written research.

Bryan majored in

Mathematics at the National

University of Singapore and also

a collection of over 100 recipes. There are

traditional breakfast dishes, such as laksam

(rice noodle rolls with coconut fish gravy) and nasi berlauk (rice with turmeric and galangal fish curry); salads of noni leaves and fern

fiddleheads with blood cockles; curries, such as opor daging Pahang (a brooding, dark beef curry) and kerutuk (curries enriched with

roasted coconut); Peranakan favourites like kay choo budu (chicken with fermented fish

sauce) and kay pachok (richly spiced chicken

skewers); splendid rice dishes like nasi kerabu

Stories & Recipes from Peninsula Malaysia’s East Coast

(Kelantanese rice salad) and nasi dagang

(coconut and fenugreek rice with mackerel tuna curry); and a lavish array of sweets,

including the poetically named cek mek molek

(“beautiful lady”) and the curious but celestial lompat tikam (“jump and stab”).

has a Masters in Management

Hospitality from Cornell University.

He lives in Singapore and is also a co-

Other Bryan Koh titles published by Xochipilli:

owner of cake companies Chalk Farm and Milk Moons.

www.officialbryankoh.com Instagram: @bryan__koh

{ X i}

Favourite establishment to eat at? In the world?! The river café in London is one of them. Or St. John, which I like as well.

H BRYAN KO

BEKWOH: Bryan’s third book explores the food of the states comprising Peninsula Malaysia’s east coast: Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang. Researched, compiled and written over two years, Bekwoh (named after huge wok-like cooking vessels) holds over 100 detailed recipes of dishes which make up the rich culinary tapestry of each state.

What do you not know how to cook but would like to learn? I would love to pull noodles. I think it’s really difficult! Have you seen them? I think it takes great skill.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG passion

SERENDIPITOUS Rozman Mashor

“I

have a thing for origin stories, and should the resulting byproduct be a one that was not the goal aimed for when the endeavour initially began, well, that just makes the journey that much more interesting. Allow me to rewind and provide context as we delve slightly into one of the minds behind the formation of a culinary collective of independent food brands. Officially appearing on the Singapore food scene in 2014/2015, but inadvertently in the works since 2012 – The Black Hole Group – is an aptly named entity that traces its roots to a time when it’s director and co-founder, Kamal Mustafa, was in the early stages of operating a boutique hostel, and never considered venturing into this industry.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

“I didn’t know anything about the Food & Beverage industry,” Kamal begins, adding that, “Hospitality is actually my area of specialty.” This was prior to his co-founding an entity so analogous to its namesake that he can count himself as merely the first of many to be sucked into this new reality. Elaborating further, “I think it was about 15 years ago when travel was made cheaper in the region for people who usually can’t travel, and I believe that is when hostels began cropping up here. Just basic set ups you understand. A simple building not in a posh area, with a safe room for visitors to stay in and lock up for the night that they would pay $10 for. So, I thought to try and elevate this experience a little bit in Singapore with The Shophouse Boutique Hostel. Just because it’s a cheap room doesn’t mean it has to be ugly. It can be thematic, beautiful, and a fine experience.”

biG passion Speed Bump #1: Surprise Surprise – Previously located on Arab Street in Kampong Glam prior to its evolution into an F&B management firm, Kamal describes how, “The building that I was in is a 5-storey hostel with a rooftop. All these rooms and beds, and on the 1st floor there was this agency called the URA (urban redevelopment authority) and they said that we could run the hostel but the 1st floor cannot be a hostel itself. It needs to be a restaurant, café, or a retail space. Okay … I didn’t see that coming.” Speed Bump #2: Not in Sync – “So for the first few months I took a tenant – an Egyptian Restaurant – and they ran the place downstairs but I felt like it didn’t really fit. The hostel was quite hip, had a Aussie vibe to it, but when you went downstairs suddenly there’s bright white lights, Egyptian furniture, back then there was even a shisha there too. So after 6 months

I told the operator I didn’t think it was working out. His business is great but the style is a bit off from what I wanted, so I’m going to have to take the key back. He understood and was fine with this.”

foods – coffee and pastries – and back then the coffee scene by hip independents was quite new, and our place was done up quite nicely. Not that I spent a lot of money on it though. We were quite resourceful by going to industrial areas to pick up old wood and pallets, and made it into furniture. So people like that in Singapore, and the media especially publications, picked that up, and we got featured quite a lot.

Speed Bump #3: Only 2 weeks! – “So back then I was running a very simple café on that first floor called Working Title, and as the name suggests, it was all rushed and last minute, because upon receiving back the key I had to start running an operation within 2 weeks because we’re paying rent and I didn’t want to lose income unnecessarily. So my team and I came up with a business plan to sell simple

Golden Opportunity: We need to step our game up – “My partner Calvin Seah and I realised we have to step up our game because people are actually coming and we need to take this very seriously. So we sent ourselves off for coffee courses, food courses,

so we can understand the business better. At first the café was just for the hostel guests and its capacity was 62 people. We had guests from all over the world and it was all good vibes, but eventually it became obvious that our local guests wanted proper food, and Singaporeans can be quite a critical bunch, so we cannot mess about, we need to do this proper – and that is pretty much how it all took off.” Halal Ever After: Six years later and currently armed with up to 12 brands presenting their halal fusion twists on Italian, Spanish, Mexican, British, Greek, and Indian cuisines; the gravity well of The Black Hole Group is one that continues to grow, attracting positive reviews and yet more and more people. To quote the group’s mission statement: “Fall in after us. There’s more to come.”

Congratulations

ARKITEK TING FOR RECEIVING ASIA PACIFIC PROPERTY AWARDS FOR MIXED USE ARCHITECTURE AND MIXED USE DEVELOPMENT FOR ONERIVERSIDE, BRUNEI DARUSSALAM.

FROM

The Mountaineer

feature

GETTING

JALAPENO BUSINESS

PRODUCTS INCLUDE: Oh My Ghost Pineapple Sunrise Tom Tom Lemongrass

Rozman Mashor

pice, spice baby! Who doesn’t like a good helping of heat to excite those taste buds during mealtimes? Geographically and culturally that is a rhetorical question to be sure, because while there are always exceptions to the rule, the sheer number of spice-lovers in this region of the world is off the charts. Heavily incorporated into our varying cuisines – Southeast Asians in general have rarely shied away from dragon breath inducing delicacies. Not wanting to be left out as they aid their government in boosting agricultural and food production capacity; Bruneians in recent times have gotten into the spice game, setting tongues both local and foreign on fire in the process with their own brands of hot sauces.

talented individual with many pursuits, the founder of the VolcoVenture line of Lanun Hot Sauces is a middle-aged lover of spice who has been pursuing this passion project over the past 3 decades. Given the food culture of the land of his birth, it is amusing that it was a stay over at a Bed & Breakfast in the United Kingdom that kick-started this journey. Upon noticing an unbranded hot sauce bottle on a counter in the countryside motel, Mohd Vol, investigates and learns from the proprietor about the chili pepper garden she maintains. Fast-forward to today, and Mohd Vol shares how with assistance provided by DaRE (Darussalam Enterprise), he succeeded in commercialising his bottled products in 2018 for the market. Receiving a good reception for his sauces so far, he flashes me a grin as I start wiping away the sweat slowly trickling down the back of my head. “That is deliberate,” Mohd Vol says, sharing his preference for

AVAILABLE AT:

creating a delayed-delivery hot sauce rich in flavour. “This way you get to enjoy the flavour of the lemon grass or pineapple for the first few minutes before the spiciness catches up with the taste and hits you. Being able to do this depends on the type of pepper used. The Ghost Peppers used in my Oh My Ghost sauce is a different story,” he laughs. Like everyone else getting in to this field, Mohd Vol, was once a grower of peppers as part of the process, but now focuses purely on production of the bottled sauces. “I decided to do this for a few reasons. I can now produce roughly 400-500 bottles monthly. Storage space was becoming an issue, and because I have 20 different recipes right now in the back of my head, which I plan to make for the Lanun series in the future, I thought I could better help the agriculture industry by working purely on

· Hua Ho · Guan Hock Lee · Chill V Kopitiam •• IG & FB: @Volcoventure_bn

the production side.” With a desire to aid local farmers by developing supply chains with them for their fruit crops for his future recipes, Mohd Vol believes his main obstacle is educating the public. “There are no preservatives at all in my products, as well as those of other local producers, which to me makes them a healthier alternative to the many mass produced brands imported into Brunei”. On the flip side of that coin, Mohd Vol enjoys the idea of penetrating the international market. “The thought of a Singaporean, or someone from Thailand, walking past a bottle of hot sauce with the label ‘Made in Brunei’ in their shops, and then buying it would be a reason to be proud. Not just for what you created, but for contributing to national development.

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The

Brothers W

ith an aversion to the limelight, the 3 brothers behind the hot sauce start up – Spicy Origins – prefer to remain behind the scenes. They enjoy watching the quality of their peppers speak for themselves in the form of belched gusts of rippling heat, and rivulets of sweat and tears running down one’s scalp and nape. Exaggeration much? Perhaps, but given that these spicy food addicts labeled one of their sauces Merana (Suffering), how about grabbing a bottle or two and putting them to the test first before giving an answer. Dressed in smart attire as part of their day jobs, it is easy to judge these books by their covers and overlook the fact that these siblings were raised in a family setting with a strong agricultural focus and background. Several members of their immediate family and extended relatives own and farm plots of land supporting the growing of crops such as pumpkins, cucumbers, eggplants, avocados, durian and rambutan. It was not until one of the many barbecues hosted by the brothers’ and their family that an offer of support was made one evening in 2019. Remembering the moment with clarity, brother Aaron, recalls when a friend said since they were always making sauces

PRODUCTS INCLUDE: Fiery Powder Borneo Habanero Dirty Trio Merana AVAILABLE AT: @Izzathello like these, he would be willing to promote it if the siblings were ever willing to sell it. “So it began as word of mouth, but things only began to get serious when we decided to start growing our own peppers. We wanted to test the waters. First it was 10, then 50, and then 100. We tried different varieties and were basically experimenting. During this time we realised that few people in Brunei were familiar with the stronger varieties, and we wanted to do something about that. It was all born out of curiosity and our belief that the level of spiciness in Brunei

is not that high, or at least, for us anyway.” Not long after their initial trial period the brothers Aldrin & Austin, attended a course in Miri hosted by HFE Agro, to which they attribute a lot of the knowledge they actively use today. “Not only were we lucky to have learned from Ahmad Shafiq, but we were also lucky enough to make it back just before Covid struck and borders were closed.” Some things were just meant to be. Using habaneros and ghost peppers mostly, backed up by a

· AgromeMarket (Bandar) · Pandan Fruit & Vegetables (Kuala Belait) •• IG: @SpicyOrigin FB: Spicy Origin Spicy Origins Community they founded for the purpose of testing new products and reviewing feedback, brother Aldrin armed with a wide smile begins to laugh as he shares that they have met individuals stating ‘Only crazy people are going to eat something like that’. Fortunately – as the siblings’ brand steadily continues to grow with its own dedicated following – it’s safe to say, crazy seems to be on the rise. Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

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The Culinary Mad Scientist

spirit of “experimentation as the greatest science” via lacto-fermentation, this process among the more poetic of us is often referred to as The Recipe of Time. A batch can be made in just a week. Some can be left for a year. In this case however, 3 months is ample time for flavours to fully develop and for the heat to subside to acceptable levels for the majority of people who want moderate heat but would also like to live till tomorrow to have yet more. The first product from BTS is the aptly named Borneo Hot Sauce Exprmnt – and man is it good! Available as Exprmnt #6 (green peppers), Exprmnt #8 (red peppers), and Exprmnt #9 (pickled baby musk melon, mustard seed, turmeric, garlic, habanero peppers) this is the tip of the iceberg. With recipes still to be tested, these could either become seasonal offerings or a fixed staple in this growing line of sauces – such as the BruBasco that a few lucky individuals have been testing and reviewing.

PRODUCTS INCLUDE: Exprmnt #8 (Red pepper) Exprmnt #6 (Green pepper) Exprmnt #9 (Pickled baby musk melon, mustard seed, turmeric, garlic, habanero peppers AVAILABLE AT:

· Guan Hock Lee · Glow Café · The Healthy Habit · Cultivate Bistro · Agrome Market · The Beanery (Kuala Belait) •• IG: @theborneotradingcompany 30

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

ow, it might seem surprising that an intense pepperderived hot sauce could be anything but bad for our stomach lining (especially during mad dashes to a restroom), however, the opposite could not be more true. This is the case when it comes to the method of preparation, and while unfermented hot sauces are a good and popular choice, there is an increasing body of science backing up the benefits of fermented hot sauces on the human digestive system. Think bacteria. Not the kind that makes you ill, but the kind that always has your back,

well, technically your gut. From our friendly neighbourhood Lactobacillus (the gluten free probiotic that supports good gut health) to a milder and mellower heat but with greatly enhanced flavour, there is ample reason for stocking a fermented bottle of spicy goodness in the fridge. A self-confessed culinary mad scientist with extensive experience fermenting hot sauces (as well as Kombucha, garlic, and baby musk melon pickles), the founder of The Borneo Trading Company is a welcome addition to Brunei’s F&B scene. Embracing the

An eco-conscious individual who “believes in the community we serve”, the founder desires to raise more awareness on sustainable food and agriculture business practices in Brunei, and what better way to do so than to lead by example? Having established produce supply chains with a number of farmers, suppliers, and producers from Brunei and Borneo for a variety of vegetable and fruit ingredients, the BTC’s formation is proving to be a boon, especially in light of efforts to also prevent food surplus wastage. Additionally: with plans in the pipeline to give 1% of proceeds to charities, as well as reimbursing customers a token amount whenever the cool looking glass bottles are returned for reuse; you the consumer have inadvertently been transformed into vessels for noble intent. At the end of the day, we all win.

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The Bulbul Birds

@SugarBun

abah is home to its fair share of natural wonders, but how many of you are aware that among these organic treasures is a unique chili pepper that the Dusuns call Momporok? Translated as The Bulbul Bird’s Chili, our small avian friends not only have a tolerance for spice as they gobble up the ripe, bright red peppers, but they have even contributed to the growth of different strains. Dispersing seeds across a wide area led to the Momporok strain taking root in the nutrient-rich volcanic soils of Kunak on the east coast. Player 2 has entered the game! Seeking out locales where examples of symbiosis such as this can occur is how the SugarBun Research & Development team discovered the small chili plantations of the area. Spending more than 5 years

collaborating with these farmers, researchers learnt that minimal intervention is needed in order to produce a harvest of peppers spicier, more flavourful and aromatic than other varieties. As traditional methods are favoured resulting in a slower grow time, these peppers are susceptible to seasonal changes of weather. The SugarBun group under the direction of Datuk Joseph Ambrose Lee pumped in a lot of resources to ensure successful harvests for long term supplies, thus boosting agricultural efforts as well as Sabah’s standing in the

region. Now, what to do with these peppers? Fast forward to 2021. It was a big deal for the Sabahan eatery when its SugarBun group launched its homegrown range of hot sauces in late May. Using Momporok as the primary ingredient, the Sabasco (Sabah Chili Company) line was born. Hailed as having the potential to “make an impression on the world,” the tangy, sweet and spicy sauce can be found in several selected outlets, and at its dedicated website. Promising consumers worldwide that “This Sabasco sauce will awaken

For information on SugarBun’s future Brunei launch, contact: Email: pacoiabdullah12@ gmail.com Tel: +673-897-1430

every area of your taste buds”, Ambrose reiterates the ultimate goal of “being committed to bringing the iconic tastes of Borneo to the world.” For SugarBun fans and hot sauce aficionados in Brunei, remember that patience is a virtue. So keep your eyes open, for good things come to the tongues of those who wait.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

YELO! Now that is bold. Yellow has always been a symbolic national colour in Brunei, and regardless of the form that it takes, is a hue that society here easily absorbs and processes, as we all proceed with our daily meanderings. That in no way prepared me for just how bold and ‘in your face’ a statement The Brunei Hotel wanted to make with the rebranding and soft launch of the entity’s inhouse café, on June 21, 2021. Formerly known as The Choices Cafe, the space has been revitalised, given a bright new outlook on life. Swinging left after entering the hotel takes you to a short cube-like tunnel that is entirely yellow from floor to ceiling. The café’s namesake, Yelo – which stands

for ‘You Enjoy Life Once’ and is a play on the term ‘Yolo’ and Hello – adorns a corner section of wall. Walking through this visually loud tunnel gave me the distinct impression of being stuck inside a Lego block, and I can’t help but wonder how others – especially the more creative among us – will perceive it. We can easily see instagrammers and TikTokers potentially using the space in one way or another. Associated with the sun, this design concept banks on emanating a sense of joy and optimism, energy and friendship. Halfway down the short tunnel and you are at the archway leading into the café space proper where elements of yellow only appear

on the wall tiles cladding some of the pillars, with the remainder of the space opting for neutral earthy tones to counterbalance the entranceway’s strong visual welcome to visitors. Food-wise: Yelo can offer diners a variety of options from its salad bar, and create-yourown sandwiches, to healthy food bowls, a grab-and-go counter service for working professionals in town, as well as hot daily specials too. An all-day breakfast, and a new all-day a la carte menu of western fusion delights, pastries and sweets are also available. The launch of Yelo also coincided with the launch of a loyalty card whereby diners can accumulate stamps. In addition, discounts are also available to Baiduri Bank cardholders. Operating from 7am to 10pm daily, the café’s official launch took place in conjunction with His Majesty the Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Negara Brunei Darussalam’s birthday. •• IG: @bruneihotel FB: The Brunei Hotel Tel: 673-2242372

Can We

Do It Twice? It was a moment of unbridled pride for Royal Brunei (RB) in 2020 when just one year ago the national airline bagged not one but two coveted Cabin Crew awards. Raising the profile and status of the airline after it was announced that they earned top spot for Asia’s Leading Cabin Crew and World’s Leading Cabin Crew. Well ladies and gentlemen, while the vast majority of us have been stuck on the ground, time does indeed fly because the moment is upon us again, and your airline needs you! Nominated for no less than 3 separate categories in association with the 28th World Travel Awards – we at BiG are happy to issue a clarion call of support amongst our brothers and sisters nationwide. The Chief Executive Officer for the airline, Captain Khalidkhan Haji Asmakhan, said, “The double win last year is definitely one of the proudest achievements. It is indeed a testament that even with a global pandemic, we are still able to perform and provide the best of Bruneian hospitality

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

to our guests. This year’s nomination also further proves this resilience. I am exceptionally proud of all members of our staff, and extremely grateful for their continuous support for the airline. “We shall work together to also reflect His Majesty’s Titah to ensure that we retain the winning title for many years to come. Therefore, we would like to invite our guests, business and trade partners, media, family, friends and fans of RB to show support towards the national carrier by taking the time to vote,” he concluded.

CATEGORIES:

Well? You heard the man. What are you waiting for?

1. Asia’s Leading Airline 2. Asia’s Leading Airline (Business Class) 3. Asia’s Leading Cabin Crew.

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Contestants Rice to

CUCKOO CHALLENGE Whisking it all as they competed for the top spot in the Cuckoo Cooking Contest aimed at finding Brunei’s ultimate home cook – the One City Shopping Complex played host to an event that saw large crowds gather to watch on the evening of June 27, 2021. The home chefs, restaurant chefs, and culinary students making up the 10 contestants went head-tohead as they prepared their own personal renditions of a standard Malay chicken dish.

With an array of ingredients, utensils, and a Cuckoo Q10 MultiPressure Cooker provided by the organisers, it all boiled down to contestants having 2 hours to whip up a delectable meal that was scrutinised in accordance to its taste, presentation, and overall uniqueness. With a panel consisting of popular food bloggers Thanis Lim, and Gzul Yusof, as well as Cuckoo Chef Nurrul Nadirah binti Fadzil, the judges were tough nuts to

The Altered Ego Exhibition

crack, so the contestants came with their A-game. The contest began with each contestant being invited up to the ingredient table where they had 5-minutes only to make their selections. Once everyone was set and raring to go, the challenge commenced in earnest. During the idle cooking period, all the contestants then watched a cooking demonstration by

“While showing a different side to one’s self or when doing something you’ve never done before, it doesn’t necessarily have to be in the best light possible.” The Altered Ego art exhibition, housed at the new Curated Gallery Studio Space, does exactly what it says it’ll do (and better) in a myriad of art installations, paintings and photographs gathered from a selection of 17 creatives ranging from pioneers to new faces. Specially curated by Azim Kadri from The Collective, Khairol Sharifkhan Hj Khalidkhan and David James Lee Tseen Zhong, the official opening ceremony on 25 June was a visual delight for invited guests, ambassadors, foreign dignitaries, corporate representatives, art enthusiasts and

Gzul Yusof who taught those present how to create a simple No-Bake Cheesecake using the 10in-1 appliances that makes up the Klear Mastercook. Immediately afterwards came the moment of truth as announcements were made against a backdrop of cheering. Cuckoo’s Marketing Director, Wong Hui Ting, presented the grand prize of a Klear Mastercook to the winner, Nur Asilah Hj Omar, who had prepared Ayam Masak Kari Kicap (chicken cooked in a soysaucecurry marinade). Consolation prizes comprising Cuckoo kitchen merchandise were presented to the remaining contestants. Now, dinner is served.

members of the media. We chatted with Izzat Zafirah, known in the burgeoning local art scene by her Instagram handle, Chipzat, who spoke of her fluorescent textured mixed-media installation “Pain in Pink” which had children’s toys embedded in its entirety, as an inner representation of the pains of life and reverting back to safer childhood memories. We also got to know fresh-faced modern digital illustrator, Charmaine Lim, who had her macabre digital piece “Ministers of some sort in the next universe” electronically displayed at the exhibition (her first of more to come, we hope!). With plenty to see, take in and talk about, the nine-day exhibition does not disappoint, with guests leaving just a little bit more in touch with what the local art scene has to offer.

Get updates on upcoming exhibitions and events held at the Curated Gallery Studio Space by following @thecollectiveartevents

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

snapshot

Held annually between mid to late April – Semporna’s festival flotilla of the Bajau people during the Regatta Lepa is a truly colourful and jovial affair. With highly decorated single-mast vessels called ‘Lepa’ brought to life with singers and dancers representing a specific family or village, the festivities can last well into the night. From the kelleh-kelleh boat race and tug-of-war contests, to a duck-catching event, and the lepa beauty pageant, celebrants have plenty to keep themselves occupied including more traditional games, shows, and a fireworks display. The highlight of the event is a decorating contest for the ‘Best Lepa’, which are enhanced with umbrellas, streamers, pennants, flags, and bunting. The winning boat will receive a cash prize, certificate, trophy – and sometimes – extra goodies such as boat parts.

Muslian

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

IN THE (K)NOW D

appetite

ue to the constant modernization of everything, the snacks and dishes of the past have evolved with the changing times. Our grandparent’s favourite haunt at the tamus have closed down, traditional cuisines are resigned to being monthly specials at restaurants and that ice dessert that only that auntie knows how to make has melted for the last time. There’s always that niggling fear that certain traditional delights will get harder and harder to find and, eventually, cease to exist altogether, only known to the current generation as a thing of the past and an occasional treat to savour. So it comes as much of a relief to us when we find that these aged snacks or classic dishes live on and are given new life and accessibility in a new wave of businesses, both online and brickand-mortar. Here are five of them that we think you should know about:

Our Tea Café Being health and eco-conscious is the name of the game and Our Tea Café is a top player (evident from their tagline “Powered by Plants”). But aside from its wide array of delicious vegetarian and vegan bites, what we really made a beeline for was a taste of their Lei Cha. A legendary dish from Taiwan dating all the way back to the Han Dynasty, Lei Cha, also sometimes known as Thunder Tea Rice, is lauded for the sheer amount of health benefits the dish provides. Served in a big bowl loaded with seven types of fresh vegetables, tofu, dry radish, gluten-free brown rice and peanuts for a nutty kick, the star feature is none other than the powerful herbal tea as a soup base. Cleantasting but far from being tasteless, the herb-laden brew is a pounded concoction composed of tea leaves, herbs, seeds and grains which are traditionally grounded with mortar and pestle. Some say it’s an acquired taste but we’re suckers for that refreshing taste. Pro tip: request for some fiery sambal on the side for that spicy kick!

Mouthbomb

eat , drink

We can’t say the same for everyone but, we absolutely love our raw fish! Whether it’s sashimi, poke bowl, ceviche etc., we are steadfastly nondiscriminatory. And out of all the sashimi platters that we’ve stuffed our faces with, nothing delights us more than Borneo’s very own raw fish delicacy, umai (similarly known as hinava if you’re in the Sabah area). A traditional Sarawakian delicacy with humble beginnings starting from Melanau fishermen who would prepare the dish out of convenience when at sea, the dish, raw fish marinated with the juices of an acidic fruit (usually lemon, lime or assam paya), onions, chillies and a pinch of salt, is simply unforgettable.

Brunei

Cue Yvonne, born and raised in Miri, currently residing in Brunei where she fulfills the cravings of umai lovers with her own unique recipe. Alongside the traditional tenggiri umai and prawn umai, Yvonne also offers premium Norwegian salmon ceviche to her doting customers, made with love and heaped to the brim with equally good ingredients. “We are very strict with our quality control and leave no stone unturned”, says Yvonne. How’s that for assurance? But our favourite part hands down has got to be knowing that that authentic Sarawakian taste is only just a simple order away.

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IG: @mouthbomb_bn Tel: 673-7294944 36

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

Lei Cha is available in Our Tea Café on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. For to-go orders, bringing your own reusable containers are highly encouraged.

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Unit 4, Block B, Warisan Mata-Mata Complex, Gadong BE1718, BSB Open: 9am-8pm (TuesSun)/ 2pm-8pm (Fri) Tel: 673-2450430 IG: @our_tea_cafe

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Ah Mit’s Would this list really be complete without a mention of Ah Mit’s? In our last issue, we waxed poetic about their ondeonde and raved about their iconic nasi lemak. Far from being the only things of note on the menu, they also have a wide variety of everything-traditional-and-delicious-to-keep-yourstomach-happy. With a reputable name which rings familiar from a 50-year-stint of selling their popular kuehs at the Kianggeh Market, we’re glad that Ah Mit’s now exists with its very own storefront in Kiulap’s Impiana Jaya Complex helping to keep our traditional kueh cravings at bay.

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No 13, Grd Flr, Impiana Jaya Complex, Kiulap Open: 7am-6pm (Tues-Sun) Tel: 673-889 0024 (WhatsApp) IG: @ahmitsdelicacycafe

Minumlu We’ve never met a cendol we didn’t like. To put it quite simply, there is no such thing as bad cendol. But to come across the perfect cendol drink that caters exactly to the whims of your palate? Practically unheard of. Good cendol? Yes. Perfect cendol? No. Until we met the cendol of our dreams: Minumlu. A simple stall with big dreams, their classic recipe is passed down from their grandmother (hence, the famous Cendol Nini). The usual combination of green rice-flour jelly, three types of milk and delicious gula Melaka, we can’t pinpoint exactly what it is about this traditional Southeast Asian ice dessert, but we love it like no other. For those who want a little bit more excitement, we recommend trying their Cendol Oreo or customize your sugar level and add your own toppings (boba, red bean and ice-cream). Until then, have a drink! Or as the locals say, Minumlu!

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Kampong Jangsak at Seri Yasra Sdn Bhd Tel: 673-8214339 IG: @minumlu.bn

Jia Jia Traditional Desserts As comforting as the piping hot dishes our grandmothers used to make for us were, nothing beats a steaming pot of sweet natural delicacies and herbal desserts, often fortified with tasty rock sugar or red dates, and always met with toothy smiles and eager stomachs. Jia Jia recreates that nostalgic vibe in her menu of traditional Chinese desserts such as Snow Fungus and Peach Gum dessert, fresh puddings and a variety of herbal teas we were always told were good for us. With a deep knowledge of each ingredient’s underlying health benefits and experience gleaned from years of helping her mother out in the kitchen during festive seasons, the owner of Jia Jia now shares

her love and knowledge of these sippable childhood memories to her keen customers. If you’re looking for a delicious way to nourish yourself and quench your thirst, then head to Pan & Wok Jerudong or The Korner, located in the Pantai Jerudong Specialist Centre where you can find Jia Jia’s delectable herbal teas. P.S. If you’re looking to surprise a treasured one in the healthiest way possible, Jia Jia also gladly accepts special requests to turn their desserts and drinks into dainty gift boxes. Yummy and thoughtful!

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IG: @Jiajia.bn Tel: 673-8761718 (WhatsApp)

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

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El Centro El Centro has seen a lot of good times in its ten years of operations (some might even say it’s been responsible for quite a few!) and it is raring to go once again in its brand new location in Lorong Dewan. Perfect for live music, dancing and quiz nights, the new El Centro is oozing with boatloads of effortless charm in an old shop block on one of Kota Kinabalu’s historic streets. With original features such as “kedai kopi” tile floors, and a big, beautiful bar shiny with an elegant granite countertop and a bespoke inlaid wooden design, the whole spot exudes an alluring old-meets-new feel. But giving you more than just charming aesthetics to feed off on, El Centro also wows with their new tapas menu (think blistered chilies, flatbreads and a generous range of traditional Spanish food) which runs 4pm-7pm daily at 5RM per plate. A love for what they do translates into the love put into their food and only increasingly good things have been said about what comes out of their kitchen. If you’re looking for something with a bit more weight, their Mexican and Western fusion menu is absolutely super, starring winning dishes like mac & cheese, eggplant parmesan and of course, their famed tacos and burritos—and all, might we add, for really good value. “With good food on one side and a good vibe on the other, where they meet in the middle... that’s El Centro”, they say and with a motto like “Eat. Drink. Enjoy”, there’s no room to go wrong here.

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18, Lorong Dewan, Pusat Bandar Kota Kinabalu, 88000 Kota Kinabalu Tel: 6014-862 3877 IG: @centro_el

eat , drink S a b a h

Nook Café

Invoking everything you could ever want in your go-to breakfast place is Nook Café at Lorong Dewan. Revolving around a breakfast, brunch and lunch concept accompanied by good specialty coffee, the café embodies a cosy casual and friendly vibe with charming rattan furniture, lots of greenery and a clean, minimalistic environment. If you’re not tucking into their signature Nook’s Breakfast, then you absolutely must have a bite of their wholesome sandwiches made with their amazing sourdough loaves—especially their bestselling grilled cheese sandwich, a golden cheese encrusted affair with hearty onion marmalade filling. Aside from demonstrating the enviable merits of having an in-house bakery with their never-ending supply of European-style country loaves and delectable sweet treats, Nook’s bakery also churns out soft sourdough loaves and brioches that customers can pre-order to buy. And if you need any more convincing, their specials will bowl you over

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

with unique dishes such as Teh Tarik Tres Leches, Masala Sticky Toffee Pudding and Tuhau Coconut Tart. “We try our best to cater to the different taste preferences of our patrons by developing food and desserts using distinct ingredients unique to each local culture, while also trying our best to source produce from local farmers and growers,” Nook says. Two thumbs up emojis! Can’t get enough of Nook? Us neither! So it comes as good news that Nook has just opened their latest branch, People by Nook, a shared space with Mountain Coffee Roasters, toting a casual-restaurant concept where they delve into lunch and dinner menus and engage with local artisans and social enterprises for collaboration. Same same but different (menus), as they say!

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19, Lorong Dewan, Pusat Bandar, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah Open daily: 8am-6pm IG: @look.for.nook Tel: 6012-8663900

biG appetite

Penn’s Pantry Hungry for some food with heart? Feel free to raid the pantry—Penn’s Pantry, at least. Serving up an authentic Foochow storm is Penelope Ling who comes from a long line of food lovers and is a mix of Foochow and Teochew herself, making her the perfect person to carry down their age-old traditional recipes. A familiar presence in the kitchen since the tender age of nine, Penn’s Pantry’s menu is Penelope’s official public foray into the world of traditional Foochow Gu Tian Food with a modernised Western twist. To start with, try some of their crowd favourites such as their Foochow Chicken Soup Mee Sua, their signature Kompia with Angchao Meat Filling or Salted Egg Yolk Fried Chicken with Passion fruit. Also, be prepared to feel completely at home in Penn’s Pantry; with roots stemming from Sibu, a father who’s an interior designer and an antiquecollecting mother, all themed décor hails from Penelope’s family home which means there’s always something interesting to look at in every corner!

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D-G-15 Gala Street Mall, Gala City, Jalan Tun Jugah, 93350 Kuching IG: @pennspantry Tel: 6016-658 1052

eat , drink

Blendsmiths Step inside a unique mid-century modern coffee house where you’re welcome to hang out and unwind or get down and get to work in a setting that inspires you to do both. Welcome to Blendsmiths where customers are taken care of with an impressive menu exclusively handcrafted by talented hands, and sleek, sophisticated interiors which make you feel right at home. Skilled baristas in the know, or rather, “blendsmiths” prepare their bestselling coffees with local Borneo coffee beans as well as imported quality beans. However, “we understand that not everyone is a coffeelover” and for the non-caffeine inclined, they raise their special Hot Chocolate made with 75% Valrhona Dark Chocolate topped with a luxurious dollop of homemade marshmallow, bestowing the drink with a bittersweet elegant body. Mm mm mmm. Generous blends and a sizeable menu of sips aside, we also suggest getting a slice or two of their Organic Artisan Banana Bread or Dark

Sarawak

Chocolate Brownie and if you’re so inclined, one of their filling Signature Croissant Sandwiches (baked turkey ham and cheese with honey mustard glaze croissant? Oh my!). With ambitions to continue providing an elevated experience to their diners, don’t be surprised that their dessert menu flows where the seasonal products of the local markets do. To that we say, all the more to indulge while you can. And if you’re in the Bintulu area, a little birdy told us that there might be a new branch popping up somewhere in the area. Watch their Instagram for more updates!

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Grd Flr, Lot 20, Blk A1, Saradise, Jalan Stutong 93350, Kuching IG & FB: @blendsmiths.kch Tel: 6016-236 8660

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG listings

Brunei

Guidelines: The restaurants and eateries listed are arranged by food types, and not in order of our preference. Reviews are written from a typical diner’s perspective and written based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the prior knowledge of the restaurants. Information given on menus, hours or prices may change and should be checked. In Brunei, all restaurants are closed between 12 noon and 2 pm on Fridays.

OUR PICKS RANGING FROM QUICK & EASY MEALS TO LOBSTER & CAVIAR, THESE ARE OUR FAVOURITEHAUNTSAROUND TOWN! Amulya This North Indian restaurant serves our favourite briyani in town. Grd Flr Jln Setia Square Berakas, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2339230) Chop Jing Chew Freshly made Roti Kahwin perfectly paired with a teh tarik 10 Spg 5 Jln Gadong, Kg Menglait (673 2424132) Gwad Basha Arabian Restaurant Arabic cuisine at its finest #1A&1B Heng Thai Property Centre Spg 22 Jln Dato Ratna, Kiarong (673 2450009) – call for other branches Restoran Makan & Soto Rosmini Our favourite soto hang-out 1 Spg 15, Jln Gadong (673 8719946) Mei Kong Coffee Shop A trip to Brunei isn’t complete without sampling their famous kolo mee 108 Jln Pemancha, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2240688) Kaizen Sushi served fresh on your table plus a variety of other Japanese cuisine Yayasan Complex Waterfront Side, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2226336) – call for other branches Pondok Sari Wangi Restaurant Serving the best of Indonesian cuisine 12-13 1st Flr Blk A Abd Razak Complex, Gadong (673 2445043) – call for other branches

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

Thien Thien Restaurant Purveyors of arguably the best Nasi Ayam in town 10 Grd Flr Mas Panchawarna Complex (673 2222435) – call for other branches Ximply Chriz Café Divine desserts, great coffee and scrumptious meals 8 Blk A Regent Square, Kiulap (673 2234918) TASTE OF ASIA VIETNAMESE PHO, THAI TOM YAM, JAPANESE SUSHI, KOREAN KIMCHI AND BRUNEIAN AMBUYAT – THIS LIST COVERS MOST OF OUR FAVOURITEASIANDELIGHTS. Ahan Thai 10 Blk B Abd Razak Complex, Gadong (673 2452852) Ah Mit’s Delicacy Café No 13, Grd Flr, Impiana Jaya Complex, Kiulap (673 889 0024) All Seasons Restaurant 17 1st Flr Times Square Shopping Centre, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2338068) Aminah Arif 2 & 3 Blk B Grd Flr Bgn Hj Abd Rahman, Kiulap (673 2236198) – Call for other branches Aneka Rasa Blk A #16 & 17 Grd & 1st Flr Bgn Begawan Pehin Dato Hj Mohd Yussof, Kg Kiulap (673 2231728) Anjung Layar Luncur (Nur Wanita Serasa Branch) Simpang 287, Pantai Serasa (673 2771879) Ar Ruhma Restaurant 329 Blk D Bgn Gadong Central, Kg Menglait (673 2427847) Axtivo Restaurant #12, Grd Flr, Hj Uthman Complex, Spg 13, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2335642)

Babu’s Kitchen C44 Blk C Grd Flr Gadong Central, Kg Menglait (673 2457868) Bali Pit-Stop 15 &16, Spg 150 Grd Floor, Block A Bangunan Habza, Kiulap (673 7209992) Chatterbox Kopitiam 2 Grd Flr Bgn Hasbullah 2, Gadong (673 8201212) Excapade Serusop Unit 4&5, Spg 86, Complex PHB, Kg Delima Satu, Jln Muara (673 2335512) – Call for other branches Farmbasket Snack Bar A1, Grd Flr Blk A, Urairah Complex, Spg 88, Kiulap (673 2234666) – Call for other branches Gurkha Palace 47 Jalan Bunga Melor, Seria Town (673 3221474) Gratitude Café Grd Flr Serusop Complex, Kg Delima Satu (673 2341123) Great Taste Restaurant Grd Flr Setia Kenangan II, Kg Kiulap (673 2233913) Happy Dean Restaurant No 3, Grd Flr, Zainuddin Complex, Spg 11, Anggerek Desa, Berakas A (673 2340885) – Call for other branches Impian Rasa Restaurant #5 Bgn Pg Hjh Rafiah Spg 607 Jln Jangsak, Gadong (673 2653858) – Call for other branches Iron Chef Unit 5&6, Lvl 1, HuaHo Manggis Mall (673 2338888) Kaka Restaurant 2 & 3 Spg 100 Jln Jerudong (673 2672333) – Call for other branches La Mee #1B & 1c Grd Flr Spg 411-12, Jln Kiarong (673 2430113)

Lee Loi Fatt Blk A #7 Grd Flr Serusop Complex, Kg Delima Satu (673 2342384) – Call for other branches Mangrove Paradise Resort Spg 912 Kg Sungai Belukut, Jln Kota Batu (673 2786868) MY Favoureat Restaurant 9 Grd Flr Bgn Hj Munchit & Hjh Rapiah, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2232828) MyTown Eating House Grd Flr The Crown Princess Complex, Jalan Tutong (673 2241880) Nyonya 3 Grd Flr Bgn Hasbollah, Gadong (673 2447090) Old Time Kopitiam G2 Grd Flr Bgn Hj Ibrahim, Kg Menglait (673 244 282) Pattaya Restaurant Spg 302, Jln Kota Batu, Sungai Lampai, BSB (673 2241721) PappaRich Blk G Grd Flr Abd Razak Complex, Gadong (673 2432333)

ADVERTISERS

GALLERY Casbah London Kebab Pick lamb, chicken, beef or fish and have it dressed and wrapped your way – tikka, kebab, doner or shawarma style! A quick and deliciously meaty meal for hungry diners on the go. OPEN DAILY; #G2a Grd Flr Times Square Complex, KG JAYA SETIA (673 2343001) (Times Square Branch) or #204 Spg 210 Kg Lambak, JLN BERAKAS (673 8803183) – Call for other branches

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Despite new coffee shops popping up around town, the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf undoubtedly remains the most popular purveyor of caffeine in Brunei with 12 branches throughout the country. This global coffee chain continues to brew their specialty coffee and their ever-popular Ice-Blended coffee drinks for the masses. OPEN DAILY 8am-11pm; G26 Grd Flr Times Square Shopping Centre, Jln Jaya Setia, BERAKAS (673 2337358) – call for other branches

Pho Hoa Restaurant #6 Grd Flr Blk B Bgn Hj Abd Rahman, Kg Kiulap (673 2236218)

Riwaz A contemporary Indian restaurant that serves up traditional Indian cuisine with a modern twist!

Rice Bowl 72 T.C.Y Building, Batu Bersurat (673 8630665)

OPEN 6.30pm – 10.30pm (closed Mondays); Radisson Hotel Jln Tasek, BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN (673 2244272 ext 8873)

Sapphira Cake House 3 Grd Flr Seri Anigma, Kiulap (673 2232021)

Rumah Gelato Scoops, takeaway cups, tubs, and cakes and catering too, all under one roof! Welcome to Rumah Gelato, Brunei’s premier gelataria offering 50 flavours to tingle your taste buds. With fewer calories per serving than ice cream, don’t just have a single scoop. Have 2 or 3!

Seasons Restaurant Lvl 2 The Centrepoint, Gadong (673 2422291) Seafood Palace #1, 2 & 3 Blk B An-Nuha Building, Kg Tanjung Bunut (673 2671299) Seaworld Neptune 8 Spg 791, Jerudong (673 2612613)

OPEN DAILY 10.00am-10.00pm

biG listings

Sate House Unit B9, Block B, Setia Kenangan II, Spg.150, Kiulap, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2231017) Sulbingsoo Korean Dessert Cafe Unit B7, Grd Flr, Shakirin Complex, Kiulap (673 2234271) SPICY CURRY & WRAPS FROM ARABIC TO INDIAN CUISINE, CHECK OUT THESE RESTAURANTS IF YOU LIKE A SPICY KICK TO YOUR MEALS. Amsarra Shawarma Unit 5, Grd Flr, Blk A, One Riverside, Jln Gadong (673 7312545) Blue Restaurant Unit 19, Grd Flr, Blk C, Spg 493, Kg Beribi, Jln Gadong (673 2450458) Bombay Palace Restaurant #9 Grd & 1st Flr Blk B Bgn Pg Mainuddin & Anak2, Batu Bersurat (673 2427313) C’Fu Curry House Restaurant Spg 103 #5 & 6 Grd Flr Bgn Hj Md Salleh, Gadong (673 2457000) Delhi Darbar Restaurant & Catering Spg 38 Jln Jerudong (673 2672826) Gwad Basha Arabian Restaurant 1A & 1B Heng Thai Property Centre, Spg 22, Jalan Dato Ratna, Kiarong (673 2450009) Iskandar Curry House Unit B5, One Riverside, Jln Gadong, Bandar Seri Begawan BA1511 (673 2422438) Kausar Café Unit 10, Grd Flr, Blk D, Shakirin Complex, Jln Komersial Kiulap, Kiulap (673 8829495) LaMesa Restaurant Unit 8, Jln Komersial Kiulap, Kg Kiulap (673 2352863) Le Taj 2-3 2nd Flr Seri Kiulap Complex, Kiulap (673 2238996) Lotus Family Restaurant 27B Grd Flr Delima Jaya Complex, Berakas (673 2342049) Rajah’s Restaurant 3 Grd Flr Blk A Bangunan PAP Umi Kalthum, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2240379)

Sugar ‘n’ Spice Unit B1, Grd Flr, Purnama Complex, Kiulap (673 2303930) Saffron Restaurant 8 Blk C Shakirin Complex, Kiulap (673 2235888) Sameer Restaurant & Catering G1 Grd Flr Sg Akar Sentral, Berakas (673 2336613) Spices Restaurant #1 Grd Flr Blk A Aman Complex, Jln Muara (673 2330081)

SAMAY With comfortable but nondescript interiors and a minimal industrial theme, first-time customers to Samay will be hard put to guess exactly what Samay serves until they swipe through the menu. But as new regulars to Samay, we say all the more reason to head there and try everything at least once to get properly acquainted with the restaurant’s signature taste. So we’re simple beings, really. We see truffle on the menu, we order. And after our first few times of getting their delicious wok fried rice with truffle and mushroom out of our systems, we realized that the seamlessly fusion menu has so much more to offer beyond the truffle realm (but just f.y.i. their crispy fried wonton with truffle mayo is everything and more—definitely a worthy appetizer!). Offering a confident variety of international flavours ranging from masala deep fried fish to Taiwanese fried chicken chop and Thai dry green curry prawn, all as good as the other, we highly recommend savouring the crispy yet generous oyster omelette also known as “Orh Jian”, a favourite of hawker centres in Singapore. A good ratio of starchy and chewy batter to nicely browned egg topped with plump oysters, this dish is absolutely one for the books and great for sharing.

Ya Nur Restaurant #6 & #7, 1st Flr, Kompleks Hj Tahir 2, Gadong (673 8719986)

8, Jalan Batu Bersurat, Bandar Seri Begawan Open daily: 11am-10pm/ 5pm-10pm Tel: 673-2350668 / 8350668 (WhatsApp)

Zaika Restaurant A4 Lot 308 Bgn Maju Jln Bunga Raya, Kuala Belait (673 3347430) WESTERN FOOD ITALIAN PIZZAS, AMERICAN STEAKS AND BURGERS, BRITISH COTTAGE PIES – WE LIST DOWN THE RESTAURANTS THAT SERVE THE BEST FROM THE WEST. Bello Café L1/12 Seri Kiulap Mall, Kiulap (673 2233989)– Call for other branches Buccaneer Steak House 92-93 (B) 94 Grd Flr Jln McKerron, Kuala Belait (673 3330406) Breakfast at Home Café No 13, Spg 11, Jln Nenas Paun, STKRJ Katok B (673 7366204) Bella Amore Unit 4, Grd Flr, Blk C, Sempurna Complex, Jln Batu Bersurat (673 3347455) Charcoal BBQ & Grill Restaurant Grd Flr Le Gallery Suites Hotel, Jln Tutong (673 2221171)– Call for other branches Cheezbox Café External Café, Ramp A, The Mall, Gadong (673 2425506) Countrypatch Café 3 Grd Flr Blk D Bgn Hj Abd Rahman, Kiulap (673 2232368) – Call for other branches De’ Olde Cottage 2 Grd Flr Blk C Sempurna Complex, Batu Bersurat (673 2426982) – Call for other branches

Pepper Lunch Brunei C9/10 Grd Flr Setia Kenangan II, Kg Kiulap (673 2253000)

Ricardo’s El Mariachi Jalan Manggis Dua (673 7363139) – Call or WhatsApp for exact location

Fratini’s Restaurant #1 Grd Flr The Centrepoint Hotel, Gadong (673 2451200) – Call for other branches

Home Kitchen by TreeBit Café D8 & D9 Lot 11620 Grd Flr Jln Gadong, Kg Mata-Mata (673 2429366)

Flour & Butter No. 29, Grd Flr, Bangunan Haji Hassan Abdullah, Jln Gadong, Menglait II (673 242 2323)

Kitchen of Jasmine by Aranda Café #17, Blk E, Atiya Complex, Spg 100, Jln Jerudong (673 8997333)

Qasehmaisara Café House #206-209 2nd Flr Plaza Athirah, Jln Kubah Makam DiRaja (673 2789898)

Geo Eats No. 13, Spg 381, Kg Jerudong (673 8271381)

Margherita Pizzeria #5 Blk A Scout Complex Jln Gadong, Kg Mata-Mata (673 8688884)

Rovansil Restaurant #36-38 1st Flr Citis Square, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2337129)

Swensen’s #2.34-2.36 2nd Flr The Mall, Gadong (673 2451864)

Pastamania #9 Grd Flr Blk H Abdul Razak Complex, Gadong (673 2457441) – Call for other branches

Red Canopy Restaurant #8 Blk A Q-Lap Complex, Kg Kiulap (673 2425855)

Triggered Chef No.13, Spg. 41-1-17, Kg Kiarong (673 8633640) – Available on WhatsApp

Glow Cafe Rimba Garden Central, Spg 127, Jln Kg Rimba, Gadong (673 7225848)Available on WA

Sorriso Restaurant & Pizzeria #14 Blk B Grd Flr Regent Square, Kiulap (673 2233030)

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG listings

MONOCO COFFEE Working in the old capital of Brunei has its perks and downfalls but one thing’s for sure, the working people of Bandar Seri Begawan will never starve or go hungry. But in an area studded with old kopitiams and eateries in every corner and peddlers on bicycles bringing snacks to your workplace doorstep, a sweet coffee spot is always welcomed with open arms. Located in an old shophouse building in a quaint alley just adjacent to The Big Wall on Robert Street (also known as the biggest mural in Brunei), Monoco Coffee does justice to a location which is practically part of Brunei’s heritage. And where their coffee is great, their space collaborators, Japanese bakery Komugi and local ice-cream connoisseur Project Ice-Cream also match expectations with offerings of delicious soft breads and artisanal ice-cream. Monoco itself also has its own in-house sandwich menu made fresh to complement their fresh brews—we hear The Trio Bros sandwich made with sautéed garlic button, shitaki and shimeji mushrooms, cucumber and grilled tomato is absolutely superb, especially when they come with a side of Nacho Macho! But if you’re just looking for a place to get out of the sun and chill, then that’s great too. Walking into the café through an elegant monogrammed glass door framed charmingly at the side of the Chinese Chamber of Commerce building, customers can look forward to bask in the small-town charm that the café exudes—preferably with a rejuvenating cup of coffee and a tasty side.

Grd Flr, Jalan Roberts, Chinese Chamber of Commerce Building, Bandar Seri Begawan, BS8711 IG: @ monococoffee Tel: 673-8998180 (WhatsApp)

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG listings

HANARINGUE They say art is supposed to make you feel something. In this case, it was regret. First was excitement when we placed our first order with Hanaringue. Second was bliss when we took our first bites. And finally came sorrowful regret when we realized that we’d eaten half the jar just on the way home with no backup in sight. But enough with the dramatics, we’re talking about Hanaringue’s amazing character meringues! Anyone who has an incurable weakness for cute little trinkets will appreciate Hana’s journey to “craft edible figurines” as she bakes her art to life in the kitchen. We tried out their sweet and salty take on classic iced gems made with a salted pretzel base decorated with a dollop of meringue and we simply could not stop. But behind their deathly cute demeanor is a journey of trial and error that requires intensive research, a boatload of creativity and true grit. “I thought it was an interesting idea to run both an art store and a bakery as one” says the nifty undergraduate who is currently homebound from studying abroad due to the pandemic. “I would describe Hanaringue as an ‘artist’s bakery’,” Hana also says and judging from her impeccable designs and creative thirst to prevail in her quest to achieve ultimate cuteness, we can’t wait to see what kind of experimental, quirky art will grace our palates (and bellies!) next. IG: @hanaringue

ADVERTISERS

GALLERY Tasek Brasserie A perfect spot to dine with family and friends in the heart of the city, Tasek Brasserie provides casual dining in a relaxed atmosphere. Customers can enjoy light snacks and a cool mocktail while lounging at the outdoor pool, or dine on the variety of cuisine from their ala carte menu or sumptuous buffets. OPEN DAILY 6am-6pm; Radisson Hotel Jln Tasek, BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN (673 2244272) THE EMPIRE HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB

Atrium Café The Atrium Café is located on level 3 of the main Atrium building, nestled amidst The Empire’s signature grand marble columns and offering a spectacular view of the sea. Buffet breakfast and á la carte lunch are available from Monday to Friday, offering a variety of international and local cuisine. OPEN 6.30am-10.30am (buffet breakfast) / 11.30am-3pm (à la carte lunch) / 2pm-4pm (à la carte lunch – on Fridays only)

Lobby Lounge The perfect place for casual or formal get-togethers or just to enjoy a cup of tea – the Lobby Lounge offers a selection of refreshments throughout the day and their popular traditional English High Tea in the afternoons. OPEN DAILY 8am-10pm / 2pm-6pm (Daily Afternoon Tea)

Pantai Restaurant Offering semi buffet meals combined with daily specials, the elegant Pantai Restaurant offers a Daily Asian buffet dinner from 6pm to 9pm with a wide variety of tantalising options to choose from, or enjoy a midday meal with the family at their popular Weekend Brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. OPEN 6.30pm-10pm (closed Thursdays) / 11am-3pm (Weekend Brunch) Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG listings

CL JELLYHOUSE We don’t think you’re ready for this jelly. A simple and underrated childhood delight turned into a work of art, these jelly cakes by CL Jellyhouse are not the typical gelatinous delights from your childhood. Less child’s play and more out of a glass display, it was wow at first sight when we came across their jiggly marvels. Established in early 2019, the jelly house first gained popularity by word of mouth before it became clear that making and selling extraordinary jelly cakes was a calling (and market demand) that needed to be fulfilled. Although, “extraordinary” definitely seems like an understatement when you check out the out-of-this-world designs they come up with (peep their Singapore laksa and boba-inspired cake)! Customers can shoot them a text just two weeks in advance and CL Jellyhouse will personally and professionally recommend designs to bring your dream jelly cake to life using molds (where possible) and amazing 2D drawing skills. 100% jelly through and through, they have an array of flavours to choose from and will usually come out with special flavours during festive seasons. We’re already counting down to their delectable jelly mooncakes! Tel: 673-8862679 IG: @cljellyhousebn

COFFEE & CAFES GOURMET,PREMIUM-GRADE, SPECIALTY COFFEE – THIS LIST ACCOMMODATES THE BEST OF THE BURGEONING LOCAL COFFEE INDUSTRY. Beanery & Co #81 A/1 Grd Flr, Jln Bunga Rambai, Kuala Belait (673 3347772) BELLUNO Café #2 Blk C Kiarong Complex, Kg Kiarong (673 2429010) Bicara Lab 2601, Jln Nakhoda Manis, Seria (IG: @bicara.lab)

biG listings

Brew Café & Bakery #47 Grd Flr Blk C Gadong Central, Menglait (673 2427554)

Rack & Brew #9 Blk H 1st & 2nd Flr Abdul Razak Complex, Gadong (673 7299668)

Spaghettini The Empire Hotel & Country Club, Jerudong (673 2418888)

Brew9 Unit 10, Grd Flr, The Walk, Beribi (673 2426986)

Roasted Sip Unit 3, Grd Flr, Blk D, Spg 508, Jerudong Complex, Jln Jerudong (673 2610850) – Call for other branches

Tarindak d’Polo Royal Brunei Polo & Riding Club, Jerudong (673 2612500)

Black Whale Unit G18A, Grd Flr, Blk C, Aman Hills Shopping Complex (673 2341473) - Call for other branches Caffé Verve #6A Spg 68, Jln Batu Bersurat (673 8757382)

The Krema Coffee #D31 Lim Eng Ming Complex Blk D, Kg Kiulap (673 8973600) The Library Café #6 Blk C, Bangunan Setia Kenangan II, Kiulap

Coffee Field Cafe & Resto Unit 5, Grd Flr, Blk A, Little Soho, Spg 73-5-8, Jln Batu Besurat (673 7229042)

T’s Coffee No 6, Blk D, A1, Lower Grd Flr, 1 SKH Supermarket, Spg 561, The Promenade Samakaya, Jln Muara (673 7171089)

Dil Coffee Trail No 15, Spg 68, Jln 82, Skim Perumahan Kg Rimba (673 8298786) Available on WA

The Slice by IA Gateaux Jalan Pretty, Kuala Belait (673 3338255 / 7374498) - Available on WA

Countrypatch Café 3 Grd Flr Blk D Bgn Hj Abd Rahman, Kiulap (673 2232368)

Two Sons Coffee C8, Setia Kenangan II, Kiulap (673 7321327)

Tarindak D’Seni Brunei Arts & Handicrafts Centre, Kota Batu (673 2240422) GO GREEN HEALTHY AND VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY OPTIONS Brunei Detox Bar 9 Grd Flr, Abdul Razak Complex, BE3519 Fuel’d Unit 3&4, Grd Flr, Spg 58, Kg. Serusop, Mukim Berakas (673 7421070) – Call for other branches Mituo Vegetarian Restaurant Grd Flr Pg Anak Puteri Norain Complex, Batu Satu (673 2222821) Pureland Vegetarian Restaurant #15 Blk B Grd Flr Bgn Hj Awg Ahmad bin Hassan & Anak-anak, Kiulap (673 2236503)

Fleur-de-lys L1/1 Seri Q-Lap Mall, Kiulap (673 2231777) – call for other branches

DIVINE DINING EXQUISITE MEALS IN BEAUTIFUL SETTINGS – PERFECT FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

Games & Lattes Café #E9 Grd Flr Blk E Setia Kenangan II, Kiulap (673 2235200)

Atrium Café The Empire Hotel & Country Club, Jerudong (673 2418888)

TienSing Vegetarian & Catering Restaurant 21-22 Bangunan Hj Hassan II, Jln Gadong, Kg Menglait (673 2454988)

Happy Cream Unit 1, 1st Flr, Bgn Majid Mohd, Jln Pasar Baharuddin, Gadong (673 8158587)

Dynasty Restaurant Grd Flr Centrepoint Hotel, Gadong (673 2430185)

Veggie Recipe No.20, Grd Flr, Blk B, Simpang 150, Regent Square (673 2236276)

High Frequency Lifestyle Café 1st Flr Unit 5 Blk B Sempurna Complex, Batu Bersurat (673 2428262) Kapra Coffee #26 Grd Flr Blk C Spg 440, Jln Muara (673 2345656) Ner Dee Café #F11 1st Flr Setia Kenangan II, Kiulap (673 7214977) Noice D29, Bangunan Lim Eng Ming, Kg Kiulap, Bandar Seri Begawan, BE1518 (673 8266825) Piccolo Café #11 Jln McArthur, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2241558)

The Horizons Seafood Restaurant Waterfront, Jln McArthur, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2233400) I-Lotus 20 Spg 12-26 Perumahan Rakyat Jati, Kg Rimba (673 2422466) Le Keris L2/22, 1st Flr, Seri Q-Lap Mall (673 2230149) Lobby Lounge The Empire Hotel & Country Club, Jerudong (673 2418888) Pantai Restaurant The Empire Hotel & Country Club, Jerudong (673 2418888) Senja Restaurant 8&9 Grd Flr Seri Kiulap Complex, Kiulap (673 2235313)

QUICK EATS FAST AND DELICIOUS MEALS FOR THOSE ON THE GO Burger King Grd Flr, Citis Square, Kpg Jaya Setia, Berakas A, Brunei-Muara (673 2330760) – Call for other branches Burgers & Grills F20, Jln Tengah Bangunan, Bowling Alley Seria, Kpg Pekan Seria (673 3221434) My Fried Chicken Grd Flr, Freshco Food Junction, Times Square, Kg Jaya Setia Nasi Katok Mama Express No 3 Blk A Grd Flr Kompleks Madang, Madang (673 8641681)

Pan & Wok Grd Flr, Spg 98, Bangunan Hjh Dyg Damit Bte Panglima Asgar Dato Paduka Hj Awg Abdullah, Delima Satu, Berakas A (673 2342399) – Call for other branches RBC Express Fast Food #1 Grd Flr Blk A, Bangunan Hj Matussin, Kg Kiulap (673 2237253)

ADVERTISERS

GALLERY

Top Nosh Café Unit 1, Grd Flr, Bangunan Majid Mohammad, Spg 235-7, Jln Pasar Gadong (673 2453889) Wayback Burgers Unit B10-11, Setia Kengan II, Kg Kiulap (673 2236882) NON-HALAL OPTIONS Ban Hiong Restaurant No. 1, Spg 600, Bunut, Kilanas, Brunei-Muara (673 2652426) Danes Café #102, Bgn Batu Bersurat, Jln Batu Bersurat (673 2428914) Golden Leaf Coffee House Blk 1 Grd Flr PAP Hjh Norain Building, Jln Batu Satu (673 2220422)– Call for other branches Phongmun Restaurant 2nd Flr Teck Guan Plaza Jln Sultan, Bandar Seri Begawan (673 2229561) Sui Heng Restaurant Grd Flr Hj Munchit & Hjh Rapiah Complex, Kg Jaya Setia (673 2338321) Hua Hua Restaurant Grd Flr, Blk B, Bangunan Urairah, Kiulap Wei’s Kitchen No.1, Spg 74-74-31, Kg Mata-Mata

Pool Deck Located at the Beachfront on Level 1, enjoy the breeze from the beachside while you sip on cool beverages and enjoy light snacks in view of the swimming pool. OPEN DAILY 7am-9pm

Spaghettini Fine dining at its best, this restaurant offers authentic Italian and contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in divine settings, with a Daily Mediterranean à la carte dinner from 6pm to 10pm. A private room is available upon request for special occasions. OPEN DAILY 6am-6pm

Zen Pavilion Located just beyond Pantai Restaurant on Level 1, Zen Pavilion offers customers an exclusive dining experience, watching chefs prepare excellent dishes on the teppanyaki grill with flare and offering some of the most authentic Japanese cuisine. Daily à la carte dinner is available. OPEN 6pm-9pm (closed Thursdays) – advance booking is required

Zest A stylish café located at the Atrium on Level 5, enjoy a hot beverage with a selection of pastries, cakes, savoury treats, confectionary and chocolates, made fresh daily with the finest quality ingredients. OPEN DAILY 24 hours (midnight-6am for Empire Hotel residents only)

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG listings

Sabah & Sarawak The restaurants and eateries listed are arranged by food types, and not in order of our preference. Reviews are written from a typical diner’s perspective and written based on actual visits to the establishments listed, without the prior knowledge of the restaurants. Information given on menus, hours or prices may change and should be checked. Credit Cards : AE | American Express MC | MasterCard V | Visa

EAT (SABAH) BORNEO WILD TREASURE Lot 27-0 Blk C Lrg Bundusan Square1D, Kota Kinabalu (6088 732 222) BRASS MONKEY Lot 1-0 Lorong Lintas Plaza 4, Kota Kinabalu (6088 61 543) CAFÉ DE VIE Lot D-0-6 Lorong Metro Town 3, Kota Kinabalu (6088 393 863) CAFÉ HARU 7, Lorong Gunung Juo, Taman Far East Kota Kinabalu (6010 935 1233) CIRCLE RESTAURANT Le Meridien Hotel, Kota Kinabalu (6088 322 222) EMPEROR’S DELIGHT Lot 6 Grd Flr Jln Pantai, Kota Kinabalu (6088 288 686) FONG IP CAFÉ Lot 100 Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu (6088 213 618)

KOREAN CLUB RESTAURANT 4 Jln Aru, Kota Kinabalu (6088 232 213) LITTLE ITALY Grd Flr Hotel Capital Jln Hj Saman, Kota Kinabalu (6088 232 231) MAD BEN CAFÉ Lot 121, Jalan Gaya, 88000, Kota Kinabalu (6088 255 073) MAI YAI THAI ORCHID RESTAURANT Lot 13 KK Waterfront, Kota Kinabalu (6088 234 841) MDM ING FISH NOODLE Lot 21 Towering Koidupan Perdana Jln Tambunan, Penampang (6016 831 8726) MR HO’S FINE FOODS L-72-G Grd Flr Blk L KK Times Square Phase 1, Kota Kinabalu (6088 222 623) NAGASAKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT No 19 Grd Flr Bangunan Harrison Jln Hj Saman, Kota Kinabalu (6088 216 623)

GAM TONG HONG KONG RECIPE Lot G-823 1Borneo Hypermall, Kota Kinabalu (6088 488 833)

NAM CHAI RESTAURANT BAH KUT TEH 10 Blk D Bdr Nam Tung, Sandakan (6089 612 603)

GRANDCHAMPS CAVE & SHOP Unit S3A, Ground Floor, Block B, The Peak Vista, Kota Kinabalu (6088 261 886)

NAN YANG CHIC KUT TEH Grd Flr Lot 47 Jln Pantai, Kota Kinabalu (6016 833 5722)

HANA JAPANESE RESTAURANT Lot S21&S22 Blk E City Mall, Kota Kinabalu (6088 538 178)

NATURAL KITCHEN Lot No B10 & B11, Suria Sabah Shoppin Mall, Kota Kinabalu (6088 487 180)

HUT STEAK HOUSE & RESTAURANT 29 Blk E Damai Plaza, Kota Kinabalu (6088 238 558)

NISHIKIJAPANESERESTAURANT Shop 4 Grd Flr 63 Gaya Street, Kota Kinabalu (6088 230 582)

JOTHY’S FISH HEAD CURRY & BANANA LEAF Blk 1 Lot G9 Api Api Centre, Kota Kinabalu (6088 261 595)

OCTOBER COFFEE HOUSE Blk B The Peak Vista Lorong Puncak 1 Tjg Lipat, Kota Kinabalu (6010 346 954)

KIRISHIMA JAPANESE RESTAURANT Cititel Express No 1 Jln Singgah Mata 1 Asia City, Kota Kinabalu (6088 217 868)

OPEN KITCHEN Grd Flr, Unit 8, Blk 1, Metro Town, 88300, Kota Kinabalu (6088 254 161)

KOHINOOR NORTH INDIAN RESTAURANT Lot 4 The Waterfront Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, Kota Kinabalu (6088 235 160) 46

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

PANCAKE HOUSE Concourse Flr 1Borneo Hypermall, Kota Kinabalu (6088 448 110) Lot G94-94A Karamunsing Complex, Kota Kinabalu (6088 319 168)

PARTY PLAY 117 Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu (6088 311 210) PASTA PASTA 108 Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu (6014 371 4665) PEPPERMINT VIETNAMESE CUISINE No. 85 Grd Flr Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu (6012 802 4582) PORT VIEW SEAFOOD VILLAGE Lot 18 The Waterfront Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, Kota Kinabalu (6088 221 753) PUSAS THE SMOKEHOUSE Ground Floor, S6, Jalan Signal Hill The Peak Vista, Kota Kinabalu (6088 299 199) RESTAURANT BABA & NYONYA RECIPE Blk E Grd Flr Grand Millennium Plaza, Penampang (6016 810 8206) RESTORAN MAKANAN SEDAP No 1-0-1 Blk B Jln Kolam Centre Phase 2 Jln Lintas, Kota Kinabalu (6088 247 459) SAILORS Lot 36 1st Flr Grand Millennium Plaza, Penampang (6088 731 960) SAKURA JAPANESE RESTAURANT G-23A & G-25, Oceanus Waterfront Mall, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, 88000 Kota Kinabalu (6088 273 604) SANTOLA CAFÉ Lot 14 Blk B Damai Point, Kota Kinabalu (6088 260 188) SENG HING RESTAURANT Ruang Sinsugan 2, Kota Kinabalu (6088 211 594) SEREMBAN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Lot 126 Blk O Plaza Permai, Kota Kinabalu (6088 484 922) SUANG TAIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Lot 12 Blk A Grd Flr SEDCO Complex, Kota Kinabalu (6088 223 080)

SUPUL KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Lot S-1-8 1st Flr City Mall, Kota Kinabalu (6088 448 844) TOSCANI’S Lot 14 The Waterfront Jln Tun Fuad Stephens, Kota Kinabalu (6088 242 879)

(6085 285 137) BEEI JING RESTAURANT SDN BHD 157 Jln Kg Nyabor, Sibu (6084 330 955)

THE B.E.A.N CAFÉ Lot 8-1, Lido Plaza, Jalan Nosoob, Penampang (6088 703 884) Café with a sofa lounge serving coffee and drinks, sandwiches, toasts, waffles, and desserts

BITES BY THE BATIK 38 Jln Pandungan, Kuching (6082 422 845)

THE B SIDE Lot 21, Ground Floor, Lido Plaza, Jalan Nosoob Penampang (6088 715 453) – Hipster café offering all-day dining and specialty coffees

BLACK BEAN COFFE & TEA 87, Ewe Hai Street, 93000 Kuching (6082 420 290)

VINO VINO BISTRO Unit J-57, 1st Flr, KK Times Square, 88100, Kota Kinabalu (6088 486 363) WAH SAN RESTAURANT D2-G Blk 17 Jln Pryer, Sandakan (6089 212 626) YAMAGOYA RAMEN Lot 109 Jln Gaya, Kota Kinabalu (6088 253 701) YOSHIMI JAPANESE RESTAURANT Warisan Square, Kota Kinabalu (6088 488 388) YU KEE BAK KUT TEH 74, Jln Gaya, 88000, Kota Kinabalu (6088 221 192)

EAT (SARAWAK) A ONE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Lrg Chew Siik Hiong 1, Sibu (6084 215 803)

BISMI RESTAURANT 27 Jln Sommerville, Bintulu (6086 331 835)

BLA BLA BLA 27, Jln Tabuan, 93000, Kuching (6082 2330944) –

BOARDRIDERS CAFÉ Plaza Merdeka Jln Pearl, Kuching (6082 237 526) BOULEVARD RESTAURANT 2228 Jln Saberkas, Lutong (6085 653 175) BUENAS FILIPINO LECHON & RESTAURANT 329 Jln Tj Batu, Bintulu (6086 310 860) CAFÉ CAFÉ AT ORIGINAL CARWASH Low 211-214, Section 9, KTLD, Rubber Rd, Kuching (6082 256 396) CAFÉ MIN XIN Lot 1126-27 Riam Comm Centre, Miri (6085 628 839) CAPITAL RESTAURANT 86 Jln Keppel, Bintulu (6086 331 160)

ABSOLUTE TRIBAL RESTAURANT Hills Shopping Mall, Kuching CARVERY RESTAURANT (6082 237 468) Jln Abell, Kuching (6082 239 449) ALFIAN RESTAURANT CASABELLA MEDITERRANEAN 52 Pekan Marudi, Marudi RESTAURANT (6085 755 215) Crown Square, Kuching (6082 346 612) ALL JOY CAFÉ 8-1 Jln Khoo Hun Yeang, CHEF AT HOME Kuching (6082 243 535) Lorong Green 1 Blk 10, Kuching (6016 858 5159) APOLLO SEAFOOD CENTRE 4 Jln Yu Seng Selatan, Miri CHUAN HONG RESTAURANT (6085 420 813) 123 Jln Council SAman (6083 322 466) APPLE RESTAURANT 78 Jln Tun Ahmad Zaidi, Bintulu CROWN DYNASTY (6086 333 377) RESTAURANT Chinese Chamber of AROMA CAFÉ Commerce, Bintulu (6086 126 Jln Tabuan, Kuching 335 908) (6082 417 163) CUPPA-KAP COFFEE ASIAN EXPRESS RESTAURANT Jln Song, Kuching G40 The Spring, Kuching (6019 8869636) (6082 414 088) DA MI XIANG GU TOU BAO BEE HIONG RESTAURANT RESTAURANT CAFÉ Tabuan Hts Comm Centre, 157G Jln Muhibbah, Kuching (6082 458 952) Lawas

DYNASTY CHINESE ESTAURANT Oil Town Comm Complex, Miri (6085 424 000) EARTHLINGS COFFEE WORKSHOP Coffee shop, roaster, academy Lot 45, Grd Flr, No. 1, CityONE Megamall, Jln Song EAST COURT CHICKEN RICE 867 Jln Club SAman (6083 326 818) EDEN EVERISE Wisma Nation Horizon, Block C, Kuching (6016 888 4522) ESCOBAR SF3 Damai Cenral Pantai Damai Santubong, Kuching (6014 288 1160) FAC BRAVO RESTAURANT 7778 Jln Sultan Iskandar, Bintulu (6086 316 920) FARLEY RESTAURANT 1721 Jln Salim, Sibu (6019 816 3052) FEAST & FURIOUS CAFÉ 244, Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman (6016 2620916) FISHERMAN RESTAURANT 4 Jln Chew Geok Lin, Sibu (6084 316 888) FRATINI’S RESTAURANT 2512 Jln Boulevard 3, Miri (6085 431 115) FU LAI SIANG RESTAURANT 108 Jln Pekan Bt Niah, Bt Niah (6085 737 168) GOLDEN CITY RESTAURANT 87, Jln Ong Chu Seng, Saratok (6083 436 139) HIGHLANDS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 298 Jln Tj Bt, Bintulu (6086 318 828) HOCK CHU LEU RESTAURANT 28 Jln Tukang Besi, Sibu (6084 316 524) IMPERIAL RESTAURANT Grd Floor, Imperial Hotel, Lot 827, Jalan Pos 98000 MIRI (6085 431 888) IMPERIAL DUCK RESTAURANT 313 Jln Padungan, Kuching (6082 336 313) JAMES BROOKE BISTRO & CAFÉ Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman 93100 Kuching (6082 412 210) JUBILEE RESTAURANT 49G Jln India, Kuching (6082 245 626) KHAN’S BILAL RESTAURANT 229-G Jln Maju, Miri (6085 418 440)

THE MASITDA KIM BAY HK MACAU RESTAURANT Boulevard Shopping Mall Jln Datuk Tawi, Kuching (6082 239 308) KOREANA RESTAURANT 10002 Jln Tun Jugah, Kuching (6082 575 072) KUCHING NOODLE PORRIDGE HOUSE 115-1 Wisma Saberkas, Kuching (6082 426 005) L.L. BANANA LEAF 7G Lorong Rubber 1 Jln Rubber, Kuching (6082 239 404) LI GARDEN RESTAURANT Hock Lee Centre, Kuching (6082 340 785)

MOMOYAMA Wisma Phoenix, Kuching (6082 420 561) MY LITTLE KITCHEN 56, Upper China Street, D’tea Pavilion, Friendship Park, Jln Song, Kuching (6016 858 6669) NAM HOI RESTAURANT 110 Jln Penrissen Bt 7, Kuching (6082 612 379) ORION TROPICAL Jln Merpati, Miri (6085 417 417)

SEVENTY2 RESTAURANT 894 Jln Permaisuri, Miri (6085 366 318)

TEN-ICHI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 317 Jln Padungan, Kuching (6082 331 310)

SHABU-KUN RESTAURANT 253 Jln Tj Bt, Bintulu (6086 317 311)

TEO SEAFOOD 787 Jln Kg Buntal, Kuching (6082 846 532)

SHERATON RESTAURANT 37 Psn Brooke, Sibu (6084 336 341) SIN LUNG SHENG FU TIAO QIANG RESTAURANT 10788 Jln Simpang Tiga, Kuching (6082 231 260)

MENAWAN RESTAURANT Grd Floor, Imperial Palace HotelLot 1120 Blk 7 Jalan Sehati MCLD 98000 MIRI (6085 432 299)

PADUNGAN RESTAURANT 268 Jln Tunku Abd Rahman, Kuching (6082 233 417) SIN SOON CHIN RESTAURANT PATZ DAYAK 2415 Jln Boulevard 2, HOME COOK SPECIAL Miri New Full 3 Foodcourt, (6012 808 5456) Stutong (next to Giant Hypermart, Tabuan Jaya) SRI MENANTI (6016 864 4763) COFFEE HOUSE RESTAURANT PIN PIN CAFÉ 15 Lrg Pahlawan 7b, Sibu 18 Jln Krokong Bau (6084 218 196) (6082 763 486) SURABAYA RESTAURANT PINANG NYONYA 288 Jln Bendahara, Miri 18, Grd Flr, 2nd Precinct, (6085 411 239) Jln Setia Raja 93450, Kuching ( SUSHI KIN 6082 459 162) The Spring, Kuching (6082 245 355) POPULAR CORNER SEAFOODS RESTAURANT SUSHI TIE-TTS Bda Shahida Wisma Sanyan, Sibu Commercial Centre, (6084 342 875) Bintulu (6086 319 688) PORTICO 17A Lorong Park Lane, Kuching (6019 819 8046)

MANGO TREE RESTAURANT Jalan Crookshank, Kuching (6082 235 353)

POT & GRILL RESTAURANT 9 Jln Tun Abd Rahman Yaakub, Kuching (6082 425 525)

MAP RESTAURANT Bang Terminal, Kuching (6082 459 087)

REJANG RESTAURANT 6 Lrg Lanang 2 Sibu (6016 860 2636)

MARCO POLO RESTAURANT 116A BDA Shahida, Bintulu (6086 332 458)

ROBATA YAKI 493 Jln Rambutan, Kuching (6082 235 372)

LIM HOCK ANN 96 1 Jln Kg Kuntal, Kuching (6082 846 533) LOK THIAN RESTAURANT 317 Jln Padungan, Kuching (6082 3313 310) LU LAI VEGETARIAN 3641, Lrg 2 Off Jln Rock, Kuching (6082 242 863) LUCKY RESTAURANT 65C G Pekan Marudi, Marudi (6085 755 562) LYN’S THANDOORI RESTAURANT 7 Jln Song Thian Cheok, Kuching (6082 234 934)

MEDAN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 56, Jln Mdn Setiaraja, Mukah (6084 874 145)

THE DYAK RESTAURANT Sublot 29, Grd Flr, Panovel Commercial Complex, Jln Simpang Tiga, 93300, Kuching (6016 868 0071) THE JUNK Western fare 80, Jln Wayang, 93000, Kuching (6082 259 450)

TRIBAL STOVE Blk H Jln Borneo Taman Sri, Kuching (6082 234 873) WANG HIN RESTAURANT 1 Soon Hup Comm Complex, Miri (6085 413 129) WARUNG NASI KUNING Jln Tun Jugah, Kuching (6016 809 1286) WEI THIAN RESTAURANT Golden Square, Siburan (6082 862 968)

TIAN XIAN RELISH RESTAURANT 313 Jln Melaka Raya, MC (606 288 1120)

XIN TSUI SIANG KITCHEN Wisma Nation Horizon Blk D, Kuching (6082 414 616)

TONG LOK RESTAURANT 1367 Jln Buangsiol, Limbang (6085 216 188)

YUN YAN RESTAURANT Stutong Comm Centre, Kuching (6082 366 115)

TONG XIN COURT RESTAURANT 151 Lrg Datuk Abang Abd Rahim 5a, Kuching (6082 482 252)

ZHUN SAN YEN VEGETARIAN FOOD Lot 165 Jln Chan Ann, Kuching (6082 230 068)

NON HALAL

You can never have enough Korean eateries wherever you are, especially when they’re as good as The Masitda. Previously a home-based affair, the new restaurant provides a humble and comfortable setting to enjoy some good old Korean barbeque with your favourite people. With their refillable side dishes and a fuss-free ambience to complement their authentic Korean dishes, Masitda has built a reputation among local and foreign patrons who keep coming back for more. Hearty stews, steaming soups, delectable kimbaps and delicious noodles and rice dishes, there’s no end to the affordable yet mouthwatering fare that is served out of The Masitda’s kitchen. The restaurant also offers delivery (and takeaway) services for days when you just want to indulge your stomach from the comfort of your own home. 98000, Miri, Faradale Commerical Centre, Jalan Bulan Sabit Open Mondays to SATURDAYS11:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat Tel: 6014-9010834/0149010-834 (for Whatsapp purposes)

ROCK ROAD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1230 Jln Rock Bt 2½ , Kuching (6082 241 575)

METRO CAFÉ 781 Jln Bangkita, Limbang (6085 215 488)

SAJIAN WARISAN RESTAURANT 537 Jln Gartak, Miri (6085 429 911) SALLEH’S CORNER CAFÉ RPR Phase 2 Shoplot Jln Astana Petra Jaya, Kuching (6012 807 8033)

MIN HUA (89) RESTAURANT G 13 Jln Bintang Utara, Bintangor (6084 693 240)

SEA VIEW RESTAURANT G Pusat Tmn SDagang, Bintulu (6086 334 929)

MERRY RESTAURANT 187 Jln Song Thian Cheok, Kuching (6082 240 118)

THE BANQUET 4560 Jln Datuk Tawi Sli, Kuching (6082 451 414)

TOPSPOT BUKIT MATA SEAFOOD CENTRE Jln Padungan, Bukit Mata, Kuching (6019 889 9838)

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

biG essentials

BRUNEI BANKS Banks in Brunei Darussalam are usually open Mondays to Fridays, 9am - 4pm and on Saturdays, 9am 11am. Some banks have branches with later closing times. Islamic banks follow the same operation hours except on Fridays when they are closed for prayers between 11am - 2.30pm. Cash withdrawals and deposits can be made from Automated Teller Machines (ATM) that can be found in various shopping complexes and bank branches all over the country. ATM cards affiliated with the international Plus or Cirrus systems are accepted at most ATMs.

CREDIT CARDS VISA and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards in hotels, restaurants and major shopping complexes. Some establishments accept American Express.

Money Changer Licensed money changers can be found at the airport, hotels, various shopping complexes and banks. To cash or exchange travelers cheques, visit major international banks in the capital.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS FRIDAY PRAYER TIME

All retail, food and beverage outlets and business offices are closed between 12 noon and 2pm on Fridays to observe the Friday prayer time for Muslims.

Islamic Etiquette Although Islam is the state religion of Brunei Darussalam, it is also a country that prides itself on the diversity of its people – including their religions. Visitors are welcome to mosques, provided some etiquette is followed. In general, proper attire is required; women are required to cover their head, shoulders, and knees. Some mosques will provide simple robes and shawls to meet these standards. Shoes are to be removed before entering a mosque. Please do not pass in front of people in prayer, and do not touch the Al-Quran. Please ask for permission before taking photographs – particularly inside! Mosques are usually closed on Thursday and Friday, and during prayer times – your hotel, tour guide, or Muslim locals can help you determine a good time to visit.

Most public phones operate on prepaid calling cards which can be obtained in all major shopping areas and retail stores. Mobile prepaid SIM cards are also available for purchase at DST Communications Sdn Bhd (DST Com), Imagine Sdn Bhd, and Progresif Cellular Sdn Bhd (PCSB) service counters as well as the respective authorised vendors’ stores.

Taxis

TOURIST

INFORMATION

CENTRE

Located at the Art Gallery at the Royal Wharf. Visitors can obtain information about Brunei and related pamphlets and maps free from here during working hours (Mon-Thurs & Sat from 9am-12.15pm & 1.30pm4.30pm).

BUSES There are six bus routes servicing the BSB area. Normal operating hours are from 6am-8pm. Bus fares start from B$1.00. Buses heading to other towns in Brunei such as Tutong, Kuala Belait and Seria depart from the bus terminal located at the multistorey carpark on Jalan Cator in BSB.

WATER

Smoking Smoking is prohibited in both air-conditioned and non airconditioned areas in Brunei Darussalam. Smoking is banned in specific places, including government buildings, hospitals, recreational and educational centres, public transport and restaurants. Offenders could be fined.

Metered taxis can be found at the airport, hotels, shopping centres, and the central bus station in Bandar Seri Begawan. Alternatively, grab a Dart Taxi using the ‘Dart’ app - a taxi booking application that can be downloaded at the App Store and Google Play.

TAXIS Unique to Brunei, the water taxi is the most common means of transportation in Kampong Ayer. You can hail a water taxi from the numerous jetties along the banks of Brunei River. Fares are negotiable but usually a standard ride costs about B$1.00. Regular boat services to Temburong operate between 6am-4.30pm daily and a one way trip costs B$7.00.

FERRY SERVICES Passenger ferry services to the Malaysian island of Labuan operate from 7am to 4pm and departs from the Serasa Terminal in Muara town. The journey takes about 45 minutes to an hour.

KALIMANTAN Banks

In Pontianak, banks open from 8am to 3pm from Mondays to Fridays and are closed on Saturdays and Sundays. ATM machines are available 24 hours. Major shopping malls also have ATM machines and are available during operating hours.

CREDIT CARDS While major credit cards such as Mastercard, Visa and American Express are accepted in establishments in the bigger cities, it is advisable to carry cash in small denominations especially around remote areas.

$ Money Changer

Licensed money changers can be found in most cities and major banks.

AIR TRAVEL

The Supadio International Airport is the main airport of Pontianak and West Kalimantan, and is located 17km away from the city limits. The airport serves direct domestic flights to other cities in Indonesia, and is also the terminal for international flight carrier AirAsia.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS

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It is possible to make IDD phone calls at payphones using coins or call cards. You can also register for a SIM card at most telecommunications shops or at the airport. Most major hotels have WIFI in guest rooms or public areas, and an increasing number of restaurants also have WIFI zones.

Taxis

Taxis can be found at the international airport, shopping malls and other public places.

Ferry Services The Pontianak Crossing Port allows ferry connection to other cities in Indonesia such as Jakarta, Surabaya, Medan and Batam.

TOURIST INFORMATION For more information, visit: www.indonesia.travel/gb/en/destinations/kalimantan Unit1.45B, First Floor, The Mall, Abdul Razak Complex, Gadong, Brunei Darussalam BE3519

Tel: +673 245 7700 www.missha.net

biG essentials

Tourist Information Centre

SABAH Banks

Banks open from 9am to 4pm from Mondays to Fridays and are closed on Saturdays and Sundays. ATM machines are available 24 hours. Major shopping malls also have ATM machines and are available during operating hours.

CREDIT CARDS Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards at hotels, restaurants and major shopping malls. Some establishments do accept American Express.

Money Changer

Licensed money changers can be found at the airport, shopping malls, hotels and major banks.

SARAWAK Banks

Banks open from 9.30am to 3pm from Mondays to Fridays and are closed on Saturdays and Sundays. ATM machines are available 24 hours. Major shopping malls also have ATM machines and are available during operating hours.

CREDIT CARDS Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards at hotels, restaurants and major shopping malls. Some establishments do accept American Express.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS

Buses

There are three main bus terminals that operate regular services. The terminal along Jalan Tun Razak provides services within the city and its outskirts. For destinations south of the city (Papar, Beaufort, Tenom, Tambunan, Keningau), use the terminal near Padang Merdeka. For any other destinations north of the city and all the way to the east coast towns of Sandakan, Tawau, Lahad Datu and Semporna, you have to take a bus to the Kota Kinabalu North Bus Terminal in Inanam and from there proceed to your destination of choice. Kinabalu Park is located en route from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan.

AIR TRAVEL

Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) is the second busiest airport in Malaysia and is the main terminal for Malaysia Airlines, MASWings, Firefly, Royal Brunei Airlines, Dragonair, Silkair and Asiana Airlines.

A free city-tram service is available for sightseeing around Kuching with pick up points at designated hotels. A daily bus service between Kuching and the airport operates from 6am-7pm and takes 40 minutes. The main intercity bus terminal is at Penrissen Bus Terminal southeast of Kuching. Ask Tourism Information Centres for bus timetables; a ‘green bus’ in the Kuching area goes to Santubong (SCV).

AIR TRAVEL

Kuching International Airport services airlines to destinations within Malaysia and overseas via Malaysia Airlines, Air Asia, Firefly, Tiger Airways, Royal Brunei, Silk Air and Batavia Air (Pontianak, Kalimantan). A network of services using smaller aircrafts provides access to remote destinations within Sarawak such as Bario, Mulu and Ba Kelalan.

Licensed money changers can be found at the airport, shopping malls, hotels and major banks. Some money changers may not accept foreign currency in small denomination or notes with a date or serial number that they don’t approve of.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

Taxis

Taxis are available at the airport terminal and cost about RM30.00 to get to the city. The journey takes between 10-15 minutes. Within the city, taxi stations are located next to major shopping malls and hotels. Long distance taxi services can be found next to Padang Merdeka.

Buses

Money Changer

It is possible to make IDD phone calls at payphones using coins or call cards. Prepaid calling cards are also widely available by authorized dealers at shopping malls. Most major hotels have WIFI facility either in their guest rooms or public areas. An increasing number of restaurants now have WIFI zones too. Cybercafés offer very affordable rates for internet services.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS

Sabah Tourism Board Jalan Gaya Tel: (6088) 212 121 Sri Pelancongan Sabah Sinsuran Complex Tel: (6088) 232 121 Tourism Malaysia (Sabah) Api Api Centre Tel: (6088) 211 732 Visitors’ Information Centre Terminal 1 Tel: (6088) 413 359 Visitors’ Information Centre Terminal 2 Tel: (6088) 447 075

Ferry Services Jesselton Point is the main terminal for boats to the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park islands and to Labuan Island. If you wish to drive to Labuan, use the ferry terminal at Menumbok south of the city where car ferries are available.

Express Boats and Ferry Services A boat service locally known as tambang is available for the short trip across Kuching River to the riverside villages on the other side and along the river for sightseeing. Fast and comfortable express boats connect coastal towns (Kuching, Sibu, Kapit) and villages on the major rivers in Sarawak. The Express Ferry Terminal in Kuching offers trips to Sibu and onwards to Kapit for upriver journeys. Take a bus from Sibu to Miri for ferries to Brunei and onwards to Labuan island and Kota Kinabalu.

Taxis

Taxi fare from Kuching Tourist airport to the city cost about Information Centre RM22.00 per way. Taxies are easily found at large hotels, or at taxi stands in all the major towns in Sarawak. Taxis don’t use meters so always negotiate the fare before getting into a cab!

Kuching Visitors’ Information Centre Tel: (6082) 410 944/2 Miri Visitors’ Information Centre Tel: (6085) 434 181 Sibu Visitors’ Information Centre Tel: (6084) 340 980

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Available by ap p oint me nt Call us at +673-8729928 or DM @timotr unksbn

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Jame’ Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque

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Grand City Hotel

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Dewan Bahasa (Library)

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Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

2 1968 Coronation Arch

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

5 mins

10 mins 3 Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Mosque

9 Timepiece Stone Monument

Raja Ayang Mausoleum 10 mins

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10 mins 1 Former Royal Customs & Excise Building / Art Gallery

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4 Taman Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien

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Jalan Roberts

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Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery

Takaful IBB Building

Jalan Pretty

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Syariah Courts

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Royal Brunei Airlines Golf Club

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Prime Minister Office Building

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Brunei Arts & Handircraft Centre Kampong Ayer

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Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

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Our Visua

7-Course M

“You have to eat to survive.” A statement of the obvious: this quote from m ways than one, the human race’s love affair with food and beverage. If chow enough, and you insist on treating your eyes as well as your taste buds, th selection on our menu of visual treats for the next few

Hungry for Change (2012)

Chef (2016)

Starring Jon Favreau, Sofía Vergara, and Jon Leguizamo Directed by Jon Favreau

When an acclaimed chef is caught on video losing his temper during a heated argument with a food critic, that goes viral and leaves his career in ruins, Chef Carl Casper travels across America on a trip of rediscovery. Refitting an old food truck and journeying with a former colleague, and his son, Carl discovers a deeper connection with his family and life, while reigniting the artistic freedoms he once had for gastronomy.

Tampopo (1985)

Starring Ken Watanabe, Tsutomu Yamazaki, and Nobuko Miyamoto Directed by Juzo Itami

Get ready to see Japan’s iconic Ramen dish getting plenty of love in this comedic presentation. In this satiric ode to food, Goro the truck driver saunters into town like a cowboy in the Wild West, and takes it upon himself to help a widower set up the town’s best noodle soup restaurant. Smaller stories taking place on the sidelines of the overarching plot tell humorous tales revolving around the importance of food.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

Awards Mike Adams, Nick Bolton, and James Caitlin Directed by James Colquhon, and Laurentine Ten Bosch

This expose by Australian nutritional consultants turned filmmakers looks into the diet industry’s business model aimed at keeping their customer base coming back for more. With deceptive strategies designed to keep people from losing and keeping off weight, this documentary film is interspersed with interviews with healthy food advocates, and intermittent clips of a fictitious woman struggling with eating habits that many in reality can relate with.

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Meal

my dear cousin encompasses in more wing down on that delicious meal isn’t hen here is my team’s recommended w months ahead.

Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 1 & 2 (2009 & 2013)

Starring Bill Hader, Anna Faris, and Neil Patrick Harris Directed by Phil Lord, and Chris Miller

An aspiring scientist and selfproclaimed genius that just can’t seem to create anything of worth has his life spun 180 degrees when he invents a machine that makes food fall from the sky. This development is a boon at first, saving the town from economic hardship but little do they realise that things are about to take a chaotic turn for the worst. In the sequel, scientist Flint journeys to an island after learning his invention from the first film is now creating food-animal hybrids. This just keeps getting better.

Platform (2019)

Starring Ivan Massagué, Zorion Eguileor, and Antonia San Juan Directed by Galder Gaztelu-Urrutia

Salt n’ Pepper (2011) Starring Lal, Shweta Menon, and Mythili Directed by Aashiq Abu

Our shocker recommendation this time round takes the shape of The Platform. A Spanish science-fiction horror film that shines a light on the issues of social classes, and the even distribution of wealth, takes place in the vertical prison known as The Pit. A huge food-laden platform descends from the top to the bottom daily, and with two inmates per level those on the lower levels often receive nothing at all. For the brave and curious among us, do enjoy!

Things take an interesting turn for the better in the life of Indian archaeologist and foodie, Kalidasan, when he receives an accidental phone call from a wrong number wanting to order a dosai. Despite initial hostilities between him and the caller, Maya, a budding long distance romance develops between the ageing unmarried pair due to their similar interests and passion for food.

Black Coffee (2007)

Written by Irene Angelico, and Harold Crooks Directed by Irene Angelico

Delve into the dark side of the brew through this 3-part documentary film that details the complicated history of the world’s 4th most valuable agricultural commodity. So sit back with that hot cup of Joe as this Canadian production goes back in time to showcase the social, economic, and political influences of an iconic beverage prevalent in every society the world over.

Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

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MOVIES TO LOOK OUT FOR THIS QUARTER Despite the ongoing rollout of Covid-19 vaccines, a return to normal is still a distance away, and continues to play havoc with movie release timetables. Some are released on time, while many others are pushed back. Here are some of the blockbusters aimed for the third quarter of 2021 that we hope to catch soon.

JUL

JUL 30

JUNGLE CRUISE

Starring Dwayne Johnson, Emily Blunt, and Edgar Ramirez

Hoping to radically change the future of medicine, Dr. Lili Houghton recruits the help of a wisecracking captain of a dilapidated boat, to transport her through a supernatural Amazon jungle in search of an ancient tree with the power to heal.

JUL

VENOM: LET THERE BE CARNAGE

Starring Tom Hardy, Woody Harrelson, and Michelle Williams

One of Marvel’s favourite anti-heroes and Spiderman nemesis – Venom – is back and hungry for more brains. With little of the plot currently known, the revelation of the alien symbiote’s offspring as the antagonist has raised excitement levels among fans considerably.

ESCAPE ROOM 2

Starring Taylor Russell and Logan Miller

This sequel to the 2019 psychological thriller sees two characters returning, alongside new additions, as unwilling participants in a deadly Escape Room experience that will strain the sanity of all.

JUL

THE GREEN KNIGHT

SEP

JUL 23

SHANG-CHI AND THE LEGEND OF THE TEN RINGS

Starring Simu Liu, Awkwafina, and Michelle Yeoh

One of the films slated to lead the charge as part of the Marvel Cinematic Universe’s ‘Phase 4.’ Shang-Chi brings Asia to the fore as the master martial artist confronts his past after an encounter with the Ten Rings, the terror organisation who kidnapped Tony Stark in the MCU’s very first film – Iron Man.

Starring Dev Patel, Sean Harris, and Ralph Ineson

Bringing audiences back to the realm of King Arthur’s Camelot, Dev Patel plays the protagonist facing off against ghosts, giants, thieves, and schemers, as he journeys to confront the titular emerald-skinned Green Knight.

SEP THE SUICIDE SQUAD

SPACE JAM: A NEW LEGACY

Starring Lebron James, Don Cheadle, and Sonequa Martin-Green

In this follow-up to the 1996 classic featuring Michael Jordan; Bugs Bunny and the Looney Tunes crew return once again to recruit the assistance of Lebron James and a new generation of basketball players from the NBA to help out the Toons yet again.

3 Starring Taika Waititi, Sylvester Stallone, and Idris Elba

Also known as the US government’s Task Force X: The Suicide Squad – now featuring several new members are sent on yet another mission befitting their group name. Sent to the remote and notorious Island of Corto Maltese, it is up to this ill-advised collection of misfits to save the day once more.

Starring Gael Garcia Bernal, Vicki Krieps, and Eliza Scanlen

Brought to us by the wonderfully weird mind of M. Night Shyamalam – Old, is a thriller based on the Sandcastle graphic novel. Upon discovering a secluded beach while in the tropics on a family holiday, each member soon learns that this idyllic spot causes them to age, reducing their entire lives into a single day.

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Borneo.Insider’s.Guide

BiG Magazine July/September Issue

Articles inside

Sarawak & Sabah restaurant reviews

The Alter Ego Exhibition

Brunei food reviews

Yelo

Hello Impiana

Serendipitous

Bringing music to life

Let’s talk paulitics

Beneath the Sunhat Dome

We Chews You

A message from Imagine

Good things to come 12 Festival Munchies