Eatdrink #50 November/December 2014

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THE HOLI DAY

ISSUE

Tableside at

Michael’s On The Thames A Classic Celebration Destination

FEATURING Special for the Holidays

Our Annual & More!

Mus ic

s• Book

Epicurean Gift Guide

e•

Be tr er • Plants • Thea

Chocolate Barr’s

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur

Old East Village Food for Thought

The London Wine & Food Show The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better

ALSO: Christmas in Bayfield | SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy

Savouring the magic

of STRATFORD Come enjoy Stratford’s heritage district wrapped in fresh cedar boughs and sparking lights as you wander the Victorian Christmas Trail collecting stocking stuffers along the way.

Take an international gastronomic journey at dinner with the Stratford Chefs School students. Celebrate the upcoming season with gourmet ideas for the holidays and special tastings from our popular Tea and Chocolate to Blue Cheese and Port or a “Griswald” Supper Club dinner.

And lots of Christmas family cheer - from a Christmas family tradition, A Wind in the Willows Christmas to holiday arts and crafts shows.

Renew your holiday spirit on horse-drawn carriage rides and strolling the Chocolate Trail.

NOVEMBER

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune

15-16

Rotary Arts and Crafts Show

29-30

Heritage Downtown Christmas Open House

22

Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting, The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop

DECEMBER

Tue-Sat Stratford Chefs School dinners at The Prune

6

13

17-30

Community Messiah, St. Joseph’s Church

Savour Stratford Tea and Chocolate Tasting

A Wind in the Willows Christmas, Masonic Hall

For all our holiday events visitstratford.ca/christmas

Book Your Festive Holiday Lunch or Dinner!

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No a O vem pe be n H r 18 ou , 5– se 8PM

Gorgeously Renovated Bedrooms, Drawing Rooms & Meeting Spaces

In-House Spa, Offering Pedicures, Manicures, Facials & Body Treatments

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eatdrinkmag @eatdrinkmag THE HOLID AY ISSUE

Tableside at

Michael’s

On The Thames A Classic Celebration Destination

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Mus ic

THE HOLIDAY

Chocolate Barr’s

ISSUE

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur

Old East Village Food for Thought

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better

ALSO:

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy

e•

tr • Plants • Thea

Tableside at

Michael’s

On The Thames A Classic Celebration Destination

FEATURING Special for the Holidays

Our Annual & More!

Be er

Mus ic

Epicurean Gift Guide

s• Book

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com Kym Wolfe Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy Jane Antoniak, David Chapman, Darin Cook, Dave Hammond, David Hicks, Antony John, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, Tracy Turlin, Claudia Viani, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden, Rick Young Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe 519 434-8349 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 City Media M&T Printing Group, London ON

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eatdrink

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario • www.eatdrink.ca

FEATURING Special for the Holidays

Our Annual

Epicurean Gift Guide

Chocolate Barr’s

Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur

Old East Village

Food for Thought

tr • Plants • Thea

The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better

ALSO:

| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy

e•

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Read Local.

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OUR COVER Michael’s On The Thames’ Sommelier/ Captain Andrew Fratepietro shows great showmanship flambéing tableside.

Photograph by Steve Grimes (www.grimesphoto.com)

46

Celebrating

years

in the printing industry

www.mtprint.com

contents

ISSUE № 50

8

F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E

8

By BRYAN LAVERY

C U L I N A RY R E TA I L

By DAVID HICKS

15 20

Chocolate Barr’s Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur The

eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide

ROAD TR I PS

Christmas in Bayfield

By JANE ANTONIAK

SPOTLIGHT

28

The SmartAPP Stands Out

By BRYAN LAVERY

FA R M E R S & A R T I S A N S

By ANTONY JOHN

41

Z Z U B E 32 H T

N E W & N O TA B L E

T R AV E L

43

The BUZZ

Get Deliciously Lost in Italy

By CLAUDIA VIANII

IN THE GARDEN

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

47

28

The Food Web: Part 4 — Autumn to Winter

32

20

Tableside at Michael’s On The Thames

24

24

By BRYAN LAVERY

R E S TAU R A N T S

15

Food for Thought, in Old East Village

12

12

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014

52

Decorating Outside In

WINE

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49

The 2015 London Wine & Food Show

By CECILIA BUY

B E E R M AT T E R S

By THE MALT MONK

COOKBOOKS

Review by TRACY TURLIN

BOOKS

Review by DARIN COOK

T H E AT R E

52

55

59 62

59

62

Book and Lyrics by David Lindsay-Abaire. Music by Jeanine Tesori.

Jamie’s Comfort Food by Jamie Oliver

Book Ideas for Fiction-loving Foodies

By RICK YOUNG

MUSIC

By NICOLE LAIDLER

THE LIGHTER SIDE

By DAVID CHAPMAN

66

55

On the Boards: Holiday Theatre Offerings

70 BASED ON THE DREAMWORKS ANIMATION MOTION PICTURE AND THE BOOK BY WILLIAM STEIG

What to Give the Discerning Foamhead

Sound Bites: Seasonal Treats

The Not So Family Christmas

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navigate great

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

TO

TIMES

SARNIA & POINT EDWARD

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ST.CLAIR RIVER DISTRICT

TOURISM SARNIA-LAMBTON

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LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR VACATION PLAYGROUND!

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as shows: Nov. 25

-Dec. 3, 2014 • Vic

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CELEBRATE the

holidays with US!

call or click for your FREE travel guide and map

also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres

800.265.0316

tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

food writer at large

Food for Thought in the Old East Village

By BRYAN LAVERY

T

here is an on-going surge of redevelopment that has gradually strengthened the vitality of the Old East Village (OEV) neighbourhood.

It’s not exactly classic gentrification — instead, it’s a more inclusive grass-roots kind of rebirth, one that reflects and accommodates the diversity of the OEV’s residents and business owners while encouraging community engagement.

The Old East Village Business Improve­ ment Area (OEVBIA) is a community-driven urban reinvestment and revitalization initia­ tive working in partnership with the Old East Village Community Association (OEVCA) and a variety of community partners to help stimu­ late neighbourhood stability and encourage a blending of viable commercial activities along and off the Dundas Street corridor.

According to Dr. Jason Gilliland (HEAL & Department of Geography at Western and OEVIA executive board member) “The OEVBIA and its advisors have been working on an economic development to strengthen the area as a food district.”

To the uninitiated, the OEV has a longstanding reputation as a destination for community, health and social service

Unique Food Attitudes

The Root Cellar Organic Café agencies. The area has also become the undisputed centre of all things counterculture and the centre of the city’s edgy art and music scene, as well as a growing restaurant cluster on the corridor. Sarah Merritt, manager of the OEVBIA, observes “The spacing of the food businesses and restaurants on Dundas Street is creating a very walkable food district”.

The neighbourhood contains 28% of the city’s listed and designated heritage properties as well as some key city venues. Dundas Street is home to the London Clay Arts Centre, the Palace Theatre, the Aeolian Performing Arts Centre and the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market (WFFAM).

A revival of culinary entrepreneurs and food enthusiasts has gravitated to the OEV and has added to the mix of established culinary businesses like Mykonos, Tony’s of London, Vietnam Restaurant and True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino.

Creative, independent, and cultishly popular restaurants and cafés like The Root Cellar, Unique Food Attitudes, Momo’s at the Market, Ten Up Chinese and Sushi, The Starving Artist Bistro, Asmara Caffee and East Village Coffeehouse have added another level of diversity and accessibility to the cultural fabric and the evolving restaurant/café scene in the neighbourhood.

A business like The Wisdom Tea Shop is

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

an example of OEV landlords taking the ultimate plunge by opening their own small businesses in their own buildings.

The WFFAM continues to serve as an anchor for the village by providing a setting for enhanced culinary programming, and cultural and civic activities that complement the market and its location in a neighbourhood previously identified as a food desert.

The market itself has a plethora of more than sixty small-scale food makers that include Saucy Meats, which brings together small-scale farmers, butchers and customers through a unique artisanal business model; Café Bourgeois chef/caterer Mary Ann Wrona, whose healthy catering and gourmet-to-go café form a repertoire of the Polish culinary tradition; and Downie Street Bakehouse, which features from-scratch, hand-shaped, artisanal and specialty breads made with time and care by baker Alan Mailloux.

Visionary culinary entrepreneur and WFFAM owner Dave Cook says, “Market management supports smaller-scale producers and farmers in an economic environment that’s challenging for anyone not performing industrial-scale agriculture, with opportunities for informal mentorship”.

As an informal incubator for emerging businesses the WFFAM has evolved into a regional culinary epicentre for smallscale food makers and farmers, “foodies” and innovators. Cook, who is at the vanguard of local culinary innovation, is looking to open a 20,000 to 25,000 square foot food production facility in the OEV to accommodate two to three anchor tenants (including his Fire Roasted Coffee

All ’Bout Cheese

9

Momo’s at the Market Company) and other spillover market opportunities and interests. Cook estimates that the current economic impact from the WFFAM is $7.5 million annually.

Various food businesses have emerged from the market to open or expand into retail and wholesale businesses in the OEV, downtown London or other farmers’ markets. Miki Hambleck’s Hungary Butcher, Rick Peori’s All ’Bout Cheese, and Theo and Gerda Korthof’s Artisan Bakery have all set up shop on Dundas Street across from the market. On the Move Organics, a premium market vendor, recently opened a pop-up retail location on the corridor close to its progeny, the Root Cellar Organic Café.

The market continues to be home to an evolving community of culinary professionals who are actively fostering the development of a distinctive food district and encouraging innovation in food and sustainable strategies for the development of quality culinary practices. Cook’s many business interests interlock and promote one another, and the success of the WFFAM illustrates the potential economic spin-off of a food production facility in OEV. The OEVBIA continues to work on a local economic development plan for the neighborhood that involves the creation of an “agri-food district,” and considers building stronger linkages between the farmers’ market and the neighboring commercial corridor as a central objective.

In the meantime, there continues to be discussion regarding an eco-food hub and a possible social enterprise grocery store in the OEV. The following page highlights just some of the interesting dining options found in the Old East Village:

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The Root Cellar Organic Café Community-focused, local, sustainable and accountable are the words used to describe the Root Cellar’s philosophy. With an emphasis on “from scratch” seasonal menus, the culinary team led by chef Dani Gruden-Murphy procures ingredients from local organic farmers for this hip artisanal culinary collective and London’s first co-operatively owned nanobrewery.

623 Dundas Street, 519-719-7675

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browned to pan-fried perfection. We love the sautéed Asian eggplant with chili and sauce, al dente long green beans bathed in a fiery sauce, spring rolls and crispy deepfried wontons. 768 Dundas Street, 519-266-4421 Chi Hi Vietnamese Chef Trinh’s Chi Hi Vietnamese restaurant features traditional Vietnamese fare including bánh mì (black bean tofu or beef subs), pad Thai, vegetarian Singapore noodles, beef noodle brisket soup, and black bean tofu vermicelli. 791 Dundas Street, (beside Aeolian Hall at Rectory) 519-601-8448

True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino True Taco continues to wow diehard tacolovers by providing superior Tony’s of London Mexican and El Salvadorian Tony’s Famous Italian cuisine in new and much has been serving pizza, larger premises. An allpanzerotti, lasagna, day breakfast of huevos chicken parmigiana and rancheros (sunny-side up other Italian-inspired eggs with homemade sauce comfort foods in this and locally-sourced beans cavernous dining room and tortillas) is a staple. since 1961. 980 Dundas Street, Tacos and pupusas are 519 544 4520 house specialities. Burritos, tacquitos, quesadillas, The Vietnam Restaurant enchiladas and tamales are Long Duc Ngo, the True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino also on offer. The standout welcoming hands-on is the chicken Milanesa. 789 proprietor, offers a selec­ Dundas Street, 519-433-0909 tion of accessibly priced noodle, rice and soup dishes. The substantive menu includes Unique Food Attitudes superb spring rolls, pho, sizzling hot pots, and The success of Barbara Czyz’s foodiemany seafood and chicken dishes. Pho Dac mobbed bistro is due to its modern Biet is the signature rice noodle broth with European cuisine, chalkboard offerings, and rare and brisket beef, beef balls and tripe with attentive vibe. Specialties include goulash fresh herbs. 1074 Dundas Street, 519-457-0762 with potato pancakes, krokiety (crepes) and red borsch made from beets, slow cooked Thai Taste cabbage rolls, and tender peirogi with sweet This family-owned unassuming hole-in-theand savoury fillings. 697 Dundas Street, 519-649-2225 wall, with cramped booth seating offers supe­ rior Thai food. Served with pride and atten­ Mykonos tion to detail Thai Taste is an OEV favourite.

Heidi and Bill Vamvalis are pillars of hospital­ Don’t be put off by the narrow interior—the ity, and have been serving Mediterranean food shines. 671 Dundas Street, 519-646-2909 cuisine and traditional English Fish and Chips for over 38 years. Mykonos sports a Starving Artist Bistro and Lounge festive covered patio at the back of the res­ This small open-kitchen bills itself as a café, taurant, which is heated during the cooler breakfast and brunch restaurant. This is weather. The Mykonos Platter with mous­ where you’ll find some amazing work from saka, pastichio, souvlaki, tsaziki, tiropitaki, local artists displayed in the cozy dining area. spanakopita, loukanica and dolmathaki is Try the First Nation’s bannock tacos if they outstanding. 572 Adelaide Street N., 519-434-6736 are available. 680 Dundas Street, 226-680-0526 The Spring (You Yi Cun) An OEV mainstay, The Spring has recently changed hands. The décor could still use a rethink. The signature wonton “purses” — house-made pork dumplings — are

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

Authentic

CULINARY

EXPERIENCES FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON'S CULINARY CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

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TOURISM

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

restaurants

A Classic Celebration Destination Tableside Cooking at Michael’s On The Thames, in London

By BRYAN LAVERY Photography by STEVE GRIMES

M

y passion for French cooking was ignited when I travelled through France at age 22. A year later I was asked to run the kitchen at The Vineyard, one of Toronto’s first wine bars. In those days, French cuisine dominated the fine dining scene.

My mentor was a serious gastronome who informed and educated my palate by wining and dining me in the most prestigious fine dining institutions in Toronto. All of these establishments — Napoléon, Three Small Rooms, Auberge Gavroche, Fenton’s, Les Cavaliers and the dining rooms at the King Edward Hotel and the Westbury Hotel — were French, and enjoyed august reputations and discerning clientele. The same welcoming hospitality, and the same discreet but impeccable service were extended to everyone.

Tastes are transitory and altered sensibilities have brought changes to the cuisine and classic styles of restaurant service that I esteemed in my early career. Good value to the patron does not mean cheap prices. It refers to the quality and quantity of the food, the level of service, and the décor and ambience.

To my mind, French food has always been the cuisine synonymous with refined Enjoy an intimate atmosphere with comfortable and private dining areas.

In the Sun Room, Michael’s diners can enjoy a view of the Thames river and surrounding parkland taste and, to some extent, it still is. To this day I appreciate the skill and showmanship of French-style service. French service is distinguished by the fact that all or part of the preparation of the dish, or at least the finishing of it, is done in the dining room. This type of service requires a cart or gueridon and organized mise en place to facilitate cooking at the side of the patron’s table. Tableside preparations might involve sautéing or flambéing an item, or carving it, boning a fish or composing a salad from scratch.

Classic tableside cooking is part of the innate charm of Michael’s On The Thames.

The restaurant is at once appealing and traditional, and yet old-school: Caesar salad for two, prepared tableside, as well as flaming dishes, also done tableside including whole Dover sole meunière, pepper steak “Dorchester” with brandy demi-glace, cherries jubilee and strawberries alla Marco.

If you’re hungry for steak Diane the dining room staff will create that at a tableside cart for you too. It is not a classical French recipe, though its preparation is at least a cousin to the French (steak coated in cracked peppercorns accompanied by a cognac and butter sauce). It’s all about elegance, presentation, and personal

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At select times during dinner, a rotating cast of talented pianists play sophisticated classics and jazz on the baby grand piano

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Maria Homolay prepares Caesar salad, with French-style tableside service

attention. The showmanship starts with a kitchen manager Dave Wyler and their tender cut of beef tenderloin pounded thin kitchen brigade consistently give patrons and pan-fried in butter to your preference. what they want, and that is why the restaurant It then is topped with a rich sauce of more remains popular. There is no attempt to be butter, shallots, and mushrooms, and trendy or cutting-edge at Michael’s. flambéed with brandy and a splash of fresh Besides tableside cooking, there are prix cream. An intoxicating wine bouquet and fixe menus and many à la carte selections that fragrant beef aroma emanates from the pan. mostly stick to tried and true classics. There is The same goes for the Brome Lake duck à Cobb salad, colossal shrimp stuffed with crab l’orange, whose boozy sauce will be whisked and wrapped in pancetta and finished with and flambéed a few inches from your table. a Pernod beurre blanc drizzle, baked west One evening while dining with my nephew, coast halibut with lemon beurre noisette, service professional Maria Homolay served and even the Valencian classic, paella. In us juicy-on-the-inside, seared and roasted Chef’s hands, paella is a fragrant combination Chateaubriand. The Chateaubriand, which of Metzger’s chorizo, duck confit, mussels, can be ordered for a table of two, is served in scallops, shrimp and saffron rice. the traditional manner accompanied by a variety of vegetables and crowned Standing, from left: Owner/Founder Brian Stewart and with béarnaise sauce. Chateaubriand Sommelier/Captain Andrew Fratepietro. Seated, General and béarnaise sauce have a natural Manager Joelle Lees and Sous Chef Chris Morrisson kinship, with the sauce of clarified butter emulsified in egg yolks, white wine vinegar and flavoured with tarragon playing off the beef tenderloin. There was naturalness to the way Homolay moved and worked — a professionalism that has made many dining experiences at Michael’s On The Thames memorable. It offers classic French flair for diners who prefer a bit of finesse while dining— and appreciate a bit of interaction with their tableside preparation.

For thirty-one years and counting, Michael’s On The Thames has been regarded as London’s “celebration destination,” and for good cause.

Owner-operator Brian Stewart, executive chef Denis Clavette,

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

1 Steamed Mussels “Meunière”— cultivated mussels steamed in white wine, fresh basil, garlic, and butter.

1 2

2 Insalata Alla Caprese — sliced tomatoes, Bocconcini cheese, and basil leaves drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sea salt, and fresh ground pepper.

3 Rack of lamb roasted with fresh mint and finished with demi-glace and port wine.

4 Jumbo black tiger-eye shrimp cocktail served with traditional cocktail sauce.

4

3

An experienced entrepreneur (Stewart owned Sam the Record Man franchises), and inspired by his inveterate restaurant patron father’s appreciation for fine dining, Stewart recognized he’d found the ideal location for his new endeavour the minute he saw the former tile and cement warehouse which gave way to Guildwood Lighting in the early 1960s.

The restaurant has an intimate atmosphere with its private dining areas, an enclosed sun room beside the Thames River, the sophistica­ tion of a baby grand piano overlooking the dining room, oak decor, tables with plenty of elbow room and a stone fireplace. A rotating cast of pianists that include David Priest and Dean Harrison play classics and jazz on the baby grand at select times during dinner.

Until a few years ago, Jack Di Carlo had been the maître d’ at Michael’s since 1986.

He created a lasting impression on the clientele, greeting and serenading customers and cementing the restaurant’s reputation as a romantic dining destination. It is a reputation that endures.

General Manager Joelle Lees and certified sommelier/captain Andrew Fratepietro are warm and hospitable and, in addition to applying their skills and charisma as restaurant professionals, are focused on creating great dining experiences. Good service is one of the primary things diners

consider in judging the value of a restaurant.

The service here is a welcome throwback, countering the prevalent attitude of casual service that favours over-familiar waiters and high pressure upselling tactics.

Fratepietro’s wine list is a virtuous representation of the style and cuisine of the restaurant and has options for many different types of wine drinkers, both in terms of price point and style. There are some excellent consignment wines on the list.

While many restaurateurs and chefs are working to comprehend and respond to the expectations of the food savvy Generation X and the Millennial Generation, Michael’s remains an intentional and charming anachronism while appealing to the tastes and preferences of its changing demographic.

Michael’s On The Thames 1 York Street, London • 519-672-0111 www.michaelsonthethames.com open for lunch weekdays open for dinner 7 nights a week BRYAN LAVERY (ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com) is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

STEVE GRIMES (www.grimesphoto.com) is a regular contributor of photographs to eatdrink.

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culinary retail

Raising the Chocolate Barr New Digs for Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur

By DAVID HICKS

H

ow can a small city cope with the presence of not one or two, but three, specialty chocolate shops? It is a burden the locals seem willing to embrace. In fact, one of the faux marketing jokes around Stratford is, “Come for the plays, stay for the chocolate.”

All the more reason, now that Chocolate Barr’s Candies is settled into their new downtown location. Last winter, Derek and Jacqueline Barr bought the downtown heritage building dating from 1889, originally the residence of a railway engineer. Renovations began on the former Sun Room Restaurant in February and they re-opened in July. “It was a six-year search [for a building] and a six-month renovation,” says Derek, “And we wondered if we’d hit our July opening deadline, but we’re here and loving it now.”

Moving from their decade-long residency on Stratford’s busy Ontario Street raised a few eyebrows in town. “We had a great landlord, great foot traffic and good

Derek & Jacqueline Barr

Chocolate Barr’s new location, on George Street visibility,” says Jacqueline. “But dark tinted and curtained windows on the sunny side of Ontario St. wasn’t great for displaying perishable food items,” she says with a smile.

“By buying and building, we could design and renovate for the store layout and displays we wanted, with more of an open kitchen concept so people can see the way we work. That, and accommodating a 35-foot cooling tunnel.”

Jaccqueline Barr, behind the counter

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the Stratford Chocolate Trail tourism program help too.” (And it probably doesn’t hurt customer traffic that they’re right across the street from Stratford’s downtown LCBO store.)

The Rheo Grande Chili peppers and fruit are prepared for incorporation into chocolates and candies

What to choose? The truffle counter offers an array of choices — standards and weekly specials

Derek was born and raised in Stratford, and Rheo Thompson, the doyen of mint chocolate, was a family friend. Derek worked for him through high school. “I was actually headed for a career in mining, but then Bre-X [mining company scandal] happened and Ontario industry hit hard times. So I came home and Rheo suggested I work at the shop again until I figured things out. And I was there from 1999 to 2003.”

In the meantime, he met Jacqueline. “So here was a great guy who made chocolate for a living … What was there to think about?”

When the Barrs went out on their own in 2003, “It was crazy — we were busy right off the bat,” says Derek.

But how does it work in a town of 30,000 to be one of three chocolate shops, within two blocks of the venerable Rheo Thompson Candies and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory? “Stratford just loves its chocolate and we have a history with handmade chocolate that goes back to at least the 1950s,” says Derek, pointing to the century-old marble cooling table. “Having three specialty shops in town just makes the town even more of a destination. Our competition does a great job, and I think we make each other better.”

You Say “Cocoa,” I Say “Cacao” Cupcakes, and custom orders — just ask!

Dramatic Timing?

Still, given how Stratford’s retail sector can be theatre-dependent, it’s forgivable to wonder about the timing. Hoisting a small vat of molten caramel with his “lead systems and production guy,” Matt Gardner, Derek says, “Actually, we are twice as busy already, and summer is our slower period because of all the chocolate holidays [that fall outside summer]: Thanksgiving, Hallowe’en, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, St. Valentine’s Day and Easter.”

“We have 80 or 90 regular customers who come in throughout the year, and because we are in a direct sightline from the Avon Theatre and Studio Theatre now, we’re seeing an influx of new people.”

“Special events like Savour Stratford and

“Candy Makers, Chocolate Makers and Chocolatiers … I guess we do all of them, including small-batch items where we buy raw cacao beans, roast and grind them, and use it in specialty items. We have fresh Bean-to-Barr single origin chocolate from either Trinidad, Bolivia or Peru at any given time,” says Derek.

“Our cacao is fair trade and organic, and the sugar is organic, but we don’t major on those points,” adds Jacqueline. “Our focus is that our Bear-to-Barr chocolate is soy-free and while our facilities don’t allow us to label anything as such, we do make a range of dairy-free and sugar-free items available.”

Experimentation and innovation keep the candy game interesting for the Barrs. Jack’s Barr (nicknamed for Jacqueline) is among the most popular, made with 70% chocolate, toffee, salt and pepper. Or there’s the Espresso Barr made with espresso coffee …

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no chocolate, just powdered espresso beans, cream and sugar.

Trifling with Truffles

But the showstopper is Barr’s unique range of truffles that pushes confectionery boundaries: Balsamic Vinegar Truffle, Honey & Black Pepper, Chili Pepper, Scotch Bonnet, Roasted Garlic, Curry, Molé, Goat’s Cheese (with cheese from C’est Bon), Ancho Chili (Antony John’s Soiled Reputation), The Macallan 12 Year Old Scotch, Jameson Irish Whiskey, Guinness Stout … and usually a “New This Week” item.

“We like to do random things to keep it fun,” says Derek. “Like when a farmer walks in with five pounds of dried chili peppers.

What are you going to do?”

Barr’s has shipped chocolate as far as Japan, “but for a local martial arts group I did series of truffles using Japanese flavours, including wasabi, soy sauce, green tea, ginger and plum wine. They turned out great.”

So, any flops? Jacqueline rolls her eyes.

“Yes! Lemon Zest & Thyme Butter Ganache. I told him it wouldn’t work.”

Derek just shrugs again, with his well-

Even the packaging gets that extra special touch known mischievous smile, “If you’re going to do this seven days a week, you have to try these things.”

Chocolate Barr’s Candies 55 George St. West, Stratford 519-272-2828 www.chocolatebarrs.com monday–saturday: 9am–6pm sunday: 10am–5pm DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer and branding consultant who does not have a chocolate problem. Unless it’s all gone.

For cooking at its finest, we offer steam ovens, true convection ovens, gas and induction cooktops and a microwave/grill combination.

For cooling, we sell the top European brand – Liebherr – featuring everything from built-in refrigerators to temperature-controlled wine coolers. We even offer a humidity-controlled humidor for indoor leisure and an outdoor refrigerator for the pool/patio area.

For lifestyle appliances that are second to none, make the relaxing drive to Belgrave Ontario. We will demonstrate, in our live showroom, how you can cook, bake, cool and preserve with some of the most energy-efficient appliances available.

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Beautiful made-to-order gift baskets are available for the foodies on your list!

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

culinary retail

The eatdrink Epicurean Gift Guide Suggestions for the Foodies in Your Life

I

t's that time of year again, and the "it's better to give than to receive" mantra is much easier to embrace when you are able to avoid the mall and all of its frantic energy. Instead, find yourself an independent retailer who has done a lot of the work of finding original gift ideas for you. Whether it's a big present for someone close to your heart, a hostess gift for your friend who always goes all out to celebrate

the season, or a small "stocking stuffer" gift just to put some extra fun into someone's life, there are plenty of new and exciting products to choose from this season. We put the word out that we were looking for suggestions, and this is what we came up with!

Once Upon A Tree is committed to using local and sustainably harvested wood.

Known for their “live edge” serving boards and exquisite burl bowls, now Once Upon a Tree has created a beautiful Walnut iPad Holder exclusively for Jill’s Table. Perfect for displaying recipes in the kitchen, it is a true blend of nature and technology. $49.99 Our regular eatdrink cookbook reviewer Tracy Turlin was thinking along similar lines: “I spend a lot of time in the kitchen trying new recipes so I need a way to keep my books safe and out of the mess,” she wrote. “The Oxo Good Grips Pop-up Cookbook Holder has a clear screen that protects the pages and holds the book open at the same time.

The spatter screen pulls down and out of the way to allow you to turn the pages easily. The holder folds flat for easy storage on your cookbook shelf or gadget drawer.” $27.99 “If you prefer to find your recipes online, you can still keep them close to you while you cook with the iPrep Tablet Stand and Stylus by Prepara. It has a weighted and non-slip base to securely hold any popular tablet or e-reader. It adjusts to 4 angles for optimum reading and the stylus stores in the hinge when not in use. This stand also folds flat for easy storage.” $29.99

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The euroSCRUBBY (www.euroscrubby. com) is an abrasive, non-scratch cleaning cloth that is safe for almost every surface including non-stick pots and pans, glass/ ceramic cooktops, glass shower doors and so much more. The euroSCRUBBY is also environmentally friendly as it lasts anywhere between 6 months to 2 years, depending upon use, meaning it reduces waste going to landfills from green scouring pads and many similar products. $2.99 Carrie Wreford, co-owner of Stratford’s ­venerable Bradshaws shop, has her finger on the pulse of what’s on trend this year, and surprised us by suggesting a food item. The King George Christmas Pudding contains delightful ingredients such as sultanas, brown sugar, dried fig and apricots, citrus, pear and holiday spices, making these 1-pound Cana­ dian-made Christ­ mas puddings a delicious treat for yourself or to give as a gift.

Just steam and serve, this is the perfect tradi­ tional English holiday dessert. $24.95

Jamie Griffiths, owner of The Pristine Olive in London, has come up with a charming way to help customers try his products (over 60 fla­ vours of oils and balsamics!). He has created six unique Sample Pack Combinations, con­ taining many of his most popular items. Each sample pack holds six individually labeled, 60ml bottles, enclosed in The Pristine Olive’s new, custom-designed gift box. Perfect for people who wish to try a little bit of every­ thing! $30 (Gourmet Pack $34)

SINCE 1819

AT THE HISTORIC ARVA FLOUR MILL

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Formerly RESTAURANT EQUIPMENT & SUPPLY CO.

Your Christmas Kitchen Chef Store More Brands Larger Inventory Same Great Service Let our staff show you the most requested gifts!

Perfect ideas for every Foodie on your list!

Open to the Public: Mon-Fri 8-5

234 William Street, London • 519-438-2991 www.trimen.com

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

Lawrence Burden, from London’s Kiss the Cook shop, suggested this set of Le Creuset Espresso Mugs. “It really is the “c” factor with these,” wrote Lawrence. “CUTE! People are buying them for espresso, but also for individual desserts.” These petite mugs will inject a pop of colour into any kitchen. The durable enamelled surface resists staining, chipping and cracking, and is easy to clean. Providing a totally hygienic surface, it will not absorb odours or flavours. Microwave, freezer and dishwasher safe. The set of six is even on promo for Christmas. $49.99 (regularly $120) Carrie Wreford also drew our attention to holiday dinner­ ware with wide appeal. “From chef, writer and member of the celebrated Conran design family, The Sophie Conran

by Portmeirion dinnerware collection is the best-selling dinnerware pattern at Bradshaws,” writes Carrie. “This award-winning oven-to-table collection is recogniz­ able by its curved edges and rippled bodies that give the charm of traditional

­ ottery. The line is well-priced, p beautifully packaged and offers a wide range of serving pieces.

NEW this holiday season is the limited Christmas Collection from Sophie Conran, meant to be mixed into your current assortment to spruce things us for your holiday table setting.

All pieces are freezer-to-oven, microwave- and dishwashersafe.”

Dinnerware (12-piece set) $179

Those “in the know” are already aware of the European Appliance Store in Belgrave, just north of Blyth, but their Marketing Manager Jonathan Roeland is trying to get the word out further. We asked him for a gift sugges­ tion that might work for almost anyone, not that we’d complain if someone tucked a deluxe new range under our tree! Easier to wrap is the Chef’s Design Gourmet Specialty Pan & Buffet Server. The large 12” non-stick griddle surface is perfect for sautéing, searing, or brown­ ing. The heavy triple-ply flat bottom resists warping and conducts heat quickly and evenly. The Gourmet Specialty Pan goes form the range top or oven straight to the table for elegant food presentation.

Pudding Basin $19.95

The pan also works well for serv­ ing cheese, crackers, sausage and other cold or hot hors d’oeuvres. $119.99 (40% off regular price of $199)

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Our intrepid book reviewer, Darin Cook, chipped in with a couple of novel ideas (pun intended). He identified a couple of needs that most of us can relate to. “If you’ve ever wanted to have all types of cheese listed right before your very eyes, get The Charted Cheese Wheel (www.popchartlab.com),” writes Darin.

“You’ll never be at a loss for inspi­ ration to meet all your cheese needs with this attractive print adorning your kitchen walls. The Charted Cheese Wheel references 65 cheeses from around the world in the unique formation that resembles, what else, but a wheel of cheese. $29, framing extra “Nobody told me there would be math involved in cooking,” continued Darin. “A quick glance at the Oversized Cooking Measurements Tea Towel can provide some relief. With all those measure­ ments, some­ times mental gymnastics put a crimp in one’s culi­ nary creativ­ ity. This simpli­ fied measurement conversion graphic is printed on a 20 x 28 inch tea towel that does all the calculations for you, while providing a convenient place for drying your hands at the same time.” $16 Bradshaws, 129 Ontario Street, Stratford www.bradshawscanada.com The European Appliance Store, 39822 Belgrave Rd, Belgrave www.theeuropeanappliancestore.com Jill’s Table, 115 King Street, London www.jillstable.ca Kiss the Cook, 551 Richmond Street, London www.kissthecook online.com The Pristine Olive, 462 Cheapside Street, London www.thepristineolive.ca

Busy preparing for the holidays?

Let Us Help!

Sinc e

Gift Certificates Available 1972

Come by for a delicious meal of Home-cooked Fish & Chips!

“Homemade Goodness with a Gourmet Touch”

1050 Kipps Lane, London TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 E&D_LocomotiveED_Nov2014_ART.pdf 1 519-673-6606 FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30 www.kippslanefish.com Closed SUN & MON

201

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

road trips

Shop, Stay and Play

SPONSORED BY

Christmas in Bayfield

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

W

ant to pack some fun into your Christmas shopping?

A short road trip to Bayfield may be just the answer. Only an hour’s drive from London along some picturesque side roads, and located on the shores of magnificent Lake Huron, the historic village offers interesting shopping alongside unique dining and accommodations. For the foodie, it’s a place to enjoy craft beers and local cuisine, and to pick up culinary gifts, all while supporting independent businesses.

The annual event Christmas in Bayfield kicks off on the weekend of November 8th and continues every weekend until New Year’s. Main Street merchants celebrate by lighting Christmas trees in Clan Gregor Square beginning on November 7th. Some businesses offer discounts, including no-tax specials and draws for baskets of goodies.

The joy of heading to Bayfield lies in the ease of the destination. With ample angle parking up and down the wide main street, it is a popular road trip for those who like ease upon arrival. Situated on Highway 21 between Grand Bend and Goderich, road trippers like to make Bayfield the central location for a weekend get-away, even in the off-season. It is one of the few lakeshore villages where most shops, restaurants and Inns remain open year-round.

Upon arrival visitors will notice the newly

The Red Pump Inn

Bayfield Town Hall

opened, modern LCBO store adjacent to the new Foodland grocery store on Highway 21 just south of the main entrance to the village. If you are staying in the area, these are great new additions.

There are several outstanding options for overnight accommodations. The Red Pump Inn — known widely for its restaurant, operated by Bayfield legend Harry Israel — has seven luxury suites. Each is individually decorated with a European flair and features unique artwork. All have private balconies or patios.

Across the street from “The Pump” — as locals call it — is The Little Inn, now under the new ownership of Joanne and Mike Oliver. The historic Inn was opened in 1830 and claims to be the longest continuously operating Inn in Ontario. There are rooms

The Little Inn of Bayfield

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

The bistro makes some great burgers, including one that comes with buttery deep-fried onion rings.

Next to the Bistro is the Black Dog Pantry where Kathleen and her daughter Alysa Graham Watson shows off some fresh chocolate treats King produce (left). Hiis Charles St. Market shelves are full of party take-away pot and holiday favourites such as gourmet dips (above). pies, assorted cookie boxes and fruit and nut Christmas and suites in the main building, which cakes. “People also place special orders for also houses a lovely sitting room, bar and mincemeat tarts and we try out best to meet restaurant. Or, guests can stay across the road in the Guest Cottage. Some rooms offer the demand,” says King. The baking and cooking is done in an open kitchen inside fireplaces and soaker tubs. There are also B & B’s in Bayfield and private cottage rentals. the pantry shop, adjacent to an impressive As well there are some local area hotels with cheese display cooler. All you need for a home party awaits you here. unique offerings. The Hessenland Country For shopping, the street offers a wide variety Inn in St. Joseph’s on highway 21 offers guest of merchants and merchandise from books rooms along with delicious German and to original art. Hive is a funky newer addition.

European cuisine. About 25 minutes’ drive Owner Jenn Wallace proudly offers “an eclectic away is Samuels Hotel in Saltford, which mix that is vintage-inspired, bohemian,” offers modern guest rooms, some of which including home accessories, clothing and have a view of the Maitland River. jewelry. Her slate cheese boards from The Dining options in Bayfield are diverse, Slate Company in Scotland are a perfect gift especially considering the small size of the village. Pub-lovers flock to the Albion Hotel, — you can write on them with chalk! Hive also has a nice collection of tea mug and strainers another historic building, for wings, fish plus serving trays and dishware. and chips and sports screens. Next door is Across the street is Charles St. Market, the revered Black Dog Bistro operated by operated by Jenn’s brother Graham Wallace. cookbook author Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh Here you can buy cheese and crackers for and her husband Ted McIntosh, in yet that new cheese board along with a full line another nineteenth-century building. It’s of Sugar & Spice chocolates made in nearby a special place to kick back and enjoy a Exeter. The asparagus tortilla chips will relaxed atmosphere while sampling from make your Christmas party a bit different. a choice of 21 draft beers or sipping one The Market also sells Olive-Me & Co oils of 150 whiskey offerings. This time of year, an Irish Whisky speciality coffee whipped up by bar manager Peter Meades is just the remedy after a day on the road. “There are eight speciality coffees in all and we sell a lot of them during Christmas in Bayfield,” says Jenn Watson (right), amid the eclectic selection of Meades. Having houseware, clothing and accessories at Hive, including tried one, it’s easy some beautifully decorative bowls (above). to understand why.

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and balsamic vinegars, from London.

“We see a lot of people return to their cottages in the weeks leading up to Christmas, “ says Wallace.

“It’s a good weekend getaway to relax before Christ­ mas gets too busy.”

A warm cup of coffee awaits at Shop Bike Coffee Roasters where owner Leanne Kavanagh also sells unique “retro” candies from Britain and the US. She roasts her own beans and sells cups of coffee and beans.

Her coffee would be great with the delicious offerings of The Pink Flamingo bakery, across the road from The Little Inn. Owner and author Erin Bolger makes fantastic cupcakes and much more. She gained fame on Dragon’s Den with her hilarious book The Happy Baker: A Daters Guide to Emotional Baking. Now she lives in Bayfield and delights customers with her humour and goodies.

Bayfield can be the perfect location for a short road trip that combines culinary and shopping in Some Main Street shop signs great accom­ modations.

Full details and a schedule of events can be found at www.villageofbayfield.com Irish Coffee at The Black Dog Bistro

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular road warrior contributor to eatdrink. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations at King’s University College, London.

BRUCE FYFE is a photographer for eatdrink magazine and Librarian at Weldon Library, Western University, London. .

Book NOW for your Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party & Reserve for New Year’s Eve!

Dinner Thursday to Sunday Lunch Wednesday to Saturday Reservations Recommended 519.238.6224 42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend www.finearestaurant.com

discover the charm of the season!

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527 Main Street, Exeter 519-235-3030 30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend 30 min West of Stratford

www.eddingtons.ca

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spotlight

The Smart APPetite App Stands Out A “Local” Collaboration

By BRYAN LAVERY

R

ecently I was the guest of Dr. Jason Gilliland (Director, HEAL and Department of Geography at Western) and Margaret Milczarek, the project manager and research associate for the SmartAPPetite initiative, for an outstanding lunch at the Church Key Bistro-Pub. Dr. Gilliland and I ordered the warm duck salad (which he highly recommended) with duck leg confit on greens, roasted mushrooms, candied almonds, Stilton cheese and white balsamic and raspberry vinaigrette. Milczarek, a passionate food enthusiast, ordered the steamed P.E.I. mussels that were served with frites, and brought me up-to-date on several interesting culinary-related activities she had recently attended.

We were there to discuss the launch of the smartphone application, or “app,” and an accompanying interactive website that will

help make healthy local food more accessible, and its interrelated strategies.

SmartAPPetite is a Western University community-led initiative that aims to help keep participants accountable to their nutrition goals and to maintain healthy diets. It also helps users access local food businesses, farmers and other advocates and proponents of eating and sourcing food locally.

Incidentally, I have been acquainted with Dr. Gilliland for several years in his capacity as an advisor to the Old East Village BIA and through my work at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, where he and his team, led by Michael Clark (Old East Village senior researcher and programs administrator), conducted several studies and customer surveys, as well as an economic impact comparative analysis of farmers’ markets.

Milczarek is responsible for overseeing the advancement of the project, providing strategic direction and leadership for The SmartAPPetite team, and is the liaison for various staff stakeholders and collaborators.

The project was inaugurated last summer as a twelve-week pilot with 200 participants at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market who provided feedback on the design and various applications of the app. A prototype app has been in the beta testing phase for months and will soon become a bona fide “farm-to-fork” digital resource.

The SmartAPPetite team has two chief goals. First of all, they want to make it easier for consumers to access healthy, locallysourced, meals by improving food literacy and the awareness of what home-grown Margaret Milczarek, Project Manager, at the London Potter’s Guild in the Old East Village

№ 50 | November/December 2014

foods are available in our local communities.

Secondly, they want to shine a light on the importance of southwestern Ontario’s local food economies and facilitate their roles as local economic development tools.

The collaborative project is a Labour Market Partnership, and is funded by the Ministry of Training, Colleges and Universi­ ties and Western Uni­ versity. It is being led

by Dr. ­Gilliland’s lab, the Human Environ­ ments Analysis Labo­ ratory (HEAL) and The Department of Geography at Western University, with col­ laboration from other partners such as Bres­ cia University College, Wilfrid Laurier Univer­ sity, Old East Village BIA and the London Training Centre.

HEAL is committed to research on public health and the built environment (the built environment encom­ passes places and spaces created or modi­ fied by people including buildings, parks, and transportation systems), Laurier is offering specialists in geography and environmental studies and Brescia’s strength is embracing the diversity of food and nutrition research.

London Training Centre (LTC) execu­

www.eatdrink.ca

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(Left to Right): Mark McGregor (graduate student), Dr. Jason Gilliland, Gabriela Heslop (Brescia student and SmartAPP volunteer) tive director David Corke said that the LTC is presently the host organization and admin­ istrator of this Labour Market Partnership (LMP) project. LMP’s are funded by the ­Ministry of Training Colleges and Univer­ sities here in Ontario Corke elaborates, “Our connection and interest rest both with local food and regional economic development. A large part of the work of our organization, in addition to train­ ing and our work with food, also involves helping people find work and careers. We believe that a reinvigorated and re-imagined regional food system, one that establishes linkages between consumers and producers through technology such as SmartAPPetite, will encourage growth in the food sector and by extension — new businesses and careers for people.”

In addition to Gilliland, Milczarek, Clark and Corke, the SmartAPPetite Team includes Dr. Sean Doherty (Dept. of Geography & Environmental Studies, WLU), Dr. Colleen O’Connor (Registered Dietitian, Food and Nutritional Sciences Division, Brescia University College), Dr. Richard

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

Left: Participants at the Essex County Workshop, at the Kingsville Public Library, with Dr. Rick Sadler (back left), Mark McGregor (back right), Michael Clark (front) Below: At Feastival, the London Training Centre’s annual fundraising event: (L to R) Mark McGregor, Dr. Rick Sadler, David Corke (Executive Director of London Training Centre), Michael Clark (graduate student and Old East Village Senior Researcher & Programs Administrator Sadler (PostDoctoral Fellow), Dr. Andrew Clark (Post-Doctoral Fellow), and Mark McGregor (MA Candidate and Research Associate).

While there may seem to be similar apps currently available, Dr. Gilliland stated, “Smart APPetite is unique in its approach because it embraces the diversity of food.” Dozens of students from Brescia gathered data and in total over one hundred academics lent scien­ tifically validated expertise to the project. The app and an integrated website being designed

by London digital agency Inner Geek Media will actively provide users with information about nearby local food options based on their preferences and/or dietary restrictions.

The objective, Dr. Gilliland emphasized, “is to develop an app that can communicate to users not only what, when and where local food can be procured, but offer reliable dietary informa­ tion and nutritional recipes as well. The chal­ lenge will be keeping the content updated and scientifically valid to maintain credibility.”

Every so often, the team will send the user short personally customized tips with infor­ mation about the health benefits of specific

foods, what is seasonal now, what foods are available near you, or how to prepare or store food properly.

You will be able to let them know when and how often you want to hear from them. With the app, you can search for independent restau­ rants that are part of the Smart APPe­ tite ideology. You will be able to get the restaurant’s address and phone number, a link to its website and a brief description of the restaurant and cuisine.

The team has facilitated workshop con­ sultations to evaluate how best to design the app to make sure it user-friendly for the widest variety of users as possible. Attendees have represented various stakeholders rang­ ing from farmers (from agriculture to cattle), producers, processors, distributors, niche businesses, chefs, restaurateurs, regional economic development and health unit rep­ resentatives and local food advocates. Con­ sultations were held in Elgin County (Arts & Cookery Bank), Old East Village (London Potter’s Guild), Lambton County (Wyoming Library), Essex County (Kingsville Library), Middlesex & London (Central Library), Perth County (The Local Community Food Centre), and in Oxford County (Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese).

The team has also attended many local food-focused events as well as being in touch with stakeholders from ChathamKent and Huron counties. Be sure to check out the launch and progress of the SmartAPPetite at www.smartappetite And be sure to go to the Church Key Pub and order the confit of duck salad.

BRYAN LAVERY is a contributing editor and eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

Dr. Colleen O’Connor (co-investigator from Brescia and Registered Dietitian), Grace McGartland (The Arts & Cookery Bank in West Lorne) & Christine Scheer (CGM).

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Giving never tasted so good...

Since 2012, we’ve donated a percentage of all sales in November to Prostate Cancer Research at London Regional Cancer Program at London Health Sciences Centre.

With your support we can do it again!

119 King Street, London, ON (519) 675-9995 www.abruzzi.ca

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

The BUZZ ... new and notable

T

he cold weather’s coming, but don’t let that stop you from indulging your inner gastronome.

Some of the outdoor markets remain open, and the indoor locations are also flush with fresh products. Check out a new (or new-to-you) restaurant or café in the neighbourhood. Take a day trip further afield to discover something delicious (or just to sip on your favourite wintertime beverage when you reach your destination). Head back to class — cooking class, that is — to learn some new tricks. Or nourish your mind, with something like this ...

Concerned about bees? World-renowned bee expert Dr. Laurence Packer will share his insights on wild bees and will be joined by an expert panel to discuss conservation and restoration strategies in London. Find out about the issues, and learn some practical steps we can take. Plight of the Pollinators: Making London Pollinator Friendly, November 24 from 7-9 p.m. at Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library, 251 Dundas St. London) Attendance is free.

Jill Wilcox recently hosted an elegant open house to celebrate Jill’s Table’s 15th anniversary and to introduce the brand new kitchen. Jill partnered with McKaskell Haindl Design Build to create a wonderful new space so you can enjoy time around the table with great friends and food. This fall as part of their cooking class line-up they are welcoming back chefs Paul Harding, Josie Pontarelli, Vicci Coughlin, Chris Squire, Steve James and Emily Richards. New to the Jill’s Table kitchen this season are Eric Neves from The Only on King and Justin Wolfe of The Early Bird and Rock Au Taco. www.jillstable.ca Dickens’ Dinner—An Upper Canada Christmas Carol.

Enjoy a Victorian Christmas dinner followed by a performance of An Upper Canada Christmas Carol: A Play by Jason Rip. Colonel Thomas Talbot may be the most powerful man in his 35,000 acre “principality” along the shore of Lake Erie in early

19th century Upper Canada, but he is not known as a kind man. Discover for yourself if a parade of tranquility-shattering phantoms can change his ultimate fate. November 28– December 13. www.fanshawepioneervillage.ca.

Kiss the Cook cooking class instructors for the next few months include Danijel Markovic of Kantina, Chris Squire, and Neil Baxter from Rundles in Stratford. www. kissthecookonline.com Farm Boy has plans to open two new fresh market stores in London, to be located at 109 Fanshawe Park Road East (“Masonville”) and 1415 Beaverbrook Avenue (“Beaverbrook”).

The new stores will create 260 new jobs for the region when they open in the spring of 2015. The grocery is well known for its fresh produce, butcher quality meats and hundreds of unique private label items. www.farmboy.ca/london Paul Harding, proprietor/chef of The Only On King, was honoured as one of this year’s 20 Under 40 award recipients.

The program recognizes accomplished London industry leaders who are under the age of 40 who also give back to their community. The 2014 recipients will be profiled in a special print and digital supplement to be distributed with the November issue of Business London. The recipients will also be feted at a cocktail reception at the London Music Hall on November 12.

We here at eatdrink are currently compiling London’s Local Flavour, the 2015 Tourism London Culinary Guide.

This guide continues to confirm that Londoners are not just advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,” they are actively and creatively enhancing and making new other established cuisines. Local Flavour helps businesses participate in two popular economic trends — culinary tourism and the local food movement. Likewise, more and more environmental and ethical options such as sustainable

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

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33

seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and organic are being offered. For more information, contact bryan@eatdrink.ca or chris@eatdrink.ca

uses state of the art tap technology. Find your favourite craft and draft beers, handcrafted cocktails, and an intriguing menu of classic and trendy martinis.

“It felt like home and we put down our roots,” says Brenda Daniel of From the Meadow, who has been farming since 1978. She and her husband Dave, along with their daughter Heather, grow, harvest and manufacture a variety of natural herb products on their 5-acre plot. They call their (MyPick® local farmer verified) business an “adventure” and are passionate about creating revitalizing and relaxing healing creams, scrubs, shampoos, soaps, make-up and more with their own culinary herbs and other natural ingredients. Their products are available at their “Farmacy” at their farm in Elgin County and at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market. vimeo.com/72948434

The sale of the Honest Lawyer building, which also housed Downtown Kathy Brown’s, is expected to be finalized at the end of October. Restaurateur Marvin Rivas, who blends tradition and ingenuity in true Latin American style at his downtown hot-spot, Che Restobar, plans to put an upscale restaurant with an atrium on the main floor and residential apartments on the upper floors.

Smokin’ Good fishmonger John England has expanded his line of fresh and smoked fish at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market. England offers a wide selection of seasonally-available fresh lake fish and shell fish that include: Lake Erie perch, pickerel, and smelt; Iceland arctic char and salmon, Campbell River salmon, wild chinook and coho salmon, gravlax, oysters and P.E.I. mussels. England is also known for his smoked pork, chicken and salmon.

Downtown London’s Upscale Authentic Thai Restaurant

Book your Holiday Party now!

In Restaurant News …

Thaifoon Restaurant has new owners, Mainsay Visouvath and Fouzan (Rafael) Beg, relatives of former owners Eddy and Alex Phimphrachanh. The kitchen continues to set Thaifoon apart with bang-on aromatic specialties from the Thai culinary canon and with a keen eye for detail and presentation. The minimalist room is sleek, with a sexy, upbeat soundtrack, rich dark woods and ultra-soft leather banquettes. www.thaifoonrestaurant.com Olive R Twists opened in mid-October in the Covent Garden Market after months of refurbishment. The restaurant is co-owned by Chris Doris, co-owner of Doris Family Produce in the market, and Greg Efstatheu, a restaurateur/chef from Ingersoll. Menus feature casual bistro fare. The 75-foot-long bar

Mainsay and Rafael (Fouzan) invite you to join them for dinner or lunch

519.850.1222 120 Dundas St. at Talbot www.thaifoonrestaurant.com

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Tabitha Switzer and David Coulter have been running La Noisette Bakery for a few months now, and getting rave reviews. Located in Bellwood Plaza (Oxford and Gammage, in London) they offer breads, pastries, sandwiches, soups, and Patrick’s Beans. Always fresh-made, and offered with a smile.

Find La Noisette Bakery on Facebook.

The Church Key Bistro-Pub offers top-notch cooking and chef Michael Anglestad has a repertoire of flavours that are big, brash and rustic but thoroughly cosmopolitan. Pastry chef Cliff Briden is also at the top of his game. Best of all, owners Vanessa and Pete Willis have created a welcoming place for

Your love of all things Italian begins at

locals to meet and imbibe. The Church Key serves one of the best Sunday brunches in the city. www.thechurchkey.ca Established and operated by brothers Peter, Theodoros and Elias Vergiris, The Mascot was a family-run restaurant that relied on a loyal clientele of regulars for 43 years. The Mascot closed in October when the family retired. The building, near Dundas and Richmond, was purchased by Michael Manuel of the London Music Hall.

Speaking of brunch, panoramic views and the tailored simplicity and elegance of The River Room Café and Private Catering make it a pleasing spot for lunch or Sunday brunch. Jess JazeySpoelstra’s kitchen has a deserved reputation for the quality of the ingredients and the knowledgeable and expressive exuberance of the preparations. Currently open just for lunch, Jazey-Spoelstra tells eatdrink that she plans to open the third Thursday every month for dinner starting in the New Year.

Jazey-Spoelstra’s smart Rhino Lounge Bakery and Coffee Shoppe, situated in the former gift shop at Museum London, is now serving made-to-order sandwiches on Pastry Chef Michele Lenhardt’s daily bread (flavours change). And don’t forget about Lenhardt’s delicious cronuts on Thursdays. www. northmoore.ca/theriverroom/ Felipe Gomes provides an experiential culinary offering at Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant,with amenities and facilities for cooking classes, corporate team building exercises and a private conference room for up to 30. Gomes’s other project is the Aroma Café, a Parisian-inspired coffee house offering patrons a selection of speciality sandwiches, café au lait, croissants and pâtisserie. www.fginternationalcorp.com Icarus Resto Bar on Richmond Row, next to Black Trumpet, has gotten off to a smash success. Uber-chef Thomas Waite is plating up some very innovative and interesting modernist-inspired and reimagined Mediterranean and Greek dishes in the open kitchen. The hospitable Zack Agathos and his service-oriented staff are keeping the place humming. www.icarusrestobar.com

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Linda D’Andrea of Black Trumpet tells us that Chef Jason Eccles and Chef James Smith at La Casa and Chef Scott Wesseling at Black Trumpet have just introduced new lunch and dinner menus for the upcoming holiday season. www.lacasaristorante.com & www.blacktrumpet.ca Blu Duby has become one of London’s hottest downtown restaurants — just try getting a last-minute reservation on a weekend night. Chef Jamie Craig has recently joined Blu Duby, bringing a culinary philosophy of appreciation for fresh quality commodities and consistent proper preparation. In addition to his passion for cooking, Jamie finds great satisfaction in helping to discover and develop the talents of his younger chef apprentices. He keeps his own skills current and sharp by participating in culinary festivals like Savour Stratford, and Canada’s Gold Medal Plate event. www.bluduby.com Chef de Cuisine Trevor Stephens holds an Interprovincial Red Seal Certificate and received classical training at Fanshawe College. He comes to Idlewyld Inn & Spa after spending nine years at their sister Inn, Ingersoll’s Elm Hurst Inn & Spa, where he achieved the title of sous chef. Nestled in London’s quaint Old South neighborhood, the historic Idlewyld has sustained its air of excellence for over a century. What started out as a private residence in Victorian times has evolved into London’s premier boutique hotel, boasting membership in such organizations as Distinguished Inns of North America and gaining the prestigious designation of being named one of Ontario’s Finest Inns. Check out Chef Stephen’s new menu online. www.idlewyldinn.com Members of the London Brewing Cooperative will be talking about their brewing practices during two special events in November, both at The Root Cellar. Called Farm to Fork: The People’s Pint, the events run from 6 to 9 pm, November 12 and 27. Cost is $50, which includes a threecourse meal and a flight of beers. www.londonbrewing.ca

Lunch & Dinner 7 Days a Week Book Now for Holiday Parties Mediterranean Open Kitchen Farm to Table Inspired Licenced

519 Richmond Street (near Dufferin) 519 601 7110 www.icarusrestobar.com “Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

Poacher’s Arms is London’s oldest pub. True to the pub tradition, it offers good solid hearty food at accessible prices.

Co-owner Jim Lee tells us that the menu has been revamped and polished to include some great new items. The pub now carries 5 new rotating craft beers on draught that they are constantly changing, which has generated a lot of positive feedback from their regulars. www.poachersarms.ca Restaurateur Mike Smith has installed a brewery in the basement of his Jim Bob Ray’s bar and is getting geared up to launch a line of locally-brewed craft beer. The primary market for his beer will be his own establishments: Jim Bob Ray’s, Joe Kool’s, Fellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini, The Runt Club and P Za Pie. However, Smith is also working on attaining licensing and developing a brand so he can retail his craft beers in other establishments, joining other local craft brewery favourites like London’s Forked River, Railway City in St. Thomas, the fledgling Black Swan Brewery in Stratford and the new Strathroy Brewing Company.

• Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering Reservations •Recommended ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

LUNCH Tues–Fri 11am–1pm DINNER Tues–Fri 5–10pm • Sat 12–10pm • Sun 2–10pm

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

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In Coffee News ...

Locomotive Espresso is now retailing the Aeropress (similar to a French press) and the KeepCup (the world’s first barista standard reusable cup) which are both getting rave reviews.

They continue to brew the classic favourites, and the flat white (Aussie) and cortado (South America) beverages are gaining popularity. And, for espressophiles, Locomotive is hosting a December bus trip to Toronto. Tour the Pilot Roaster tasting bar and three selected espresso bars, and get your fill of coffee for the day. www.locomotiveespresso.com Patrick Dunham’s goal is to offer high quality coffee blends that are roasted locally and sourced ethically. Dunham caters to the specific needs of clients and his strategy includes offering fund raising opportunities to non-profits as well as demonstrating transparent community involvement. Beans are roasted in small batches and blended to attain tailor-made tastes and complexities that cannot be found in single varietal selections. Look for Patrick’s Beans on Facebook, or at Ogilvie’s Market, Sunnivue Farm near Ailsa Craig, The Arva Flour Mill, Time to Chill in Woodstock, The Root Cellar, Hungary Butcher and The Rhino Bakery and Lounge. www.patricksbeans.com

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

432 Richmond St. at Carling • London www.davidsbistro.ca www.davidsbistro.ca

Holi B day rilliant Cele brat ions

!

Around The Region ...

Yoda’s Private Catering has moved! The small (but mighty!) catering company is now located at 481 Talbot Street, St. Thomas. Stay tuned for their grand opening in January 2015.

Open to the public every Wednesday for #walkinwednesday from 10am–6pm with seasonal soups, frozen entrees and lunch specials, with plenty of vegetarian and gluten free options. letyodacookforyou.com The folks at Railway City Brewing are pleased to announce that they have just received another order of new 40HL and 20HL fermentors, increasing brewing capacity by 50%. Stop in for a visit, and check out the new equipment. They will be releasing Cranberry Festive Lager in November at a Thursday Night Release event. Featuring cranberries from Bala, Ontario, the lager will be available from the LCBO as part of Railway City’s Holiday Gift Pack. www.railwaycitybrewing.com

“A place you can depend on and delight in” — eatdrink

EXPRESS LUNCHES INTIMATE DINNERS EXTRAORDINARY CATERING DIETARY NEEDS ACCOMMODATED AMPLE FREE PARKING

46 Blackfriars Street, London 519-667-4930 www.blackfriarsbistro.com

The Little Inn, the heart of hospitality in heritage Bayfield, has changed ownership. After 33 years, Gayle and Pat Waters have turned the business over to new owners Mike and Joanne Oliver. The Olivers will be making a few changes to maintain and update the building. The inn has been the centre of the Huron County village since 1832 and has been Four Diamond CAA rated for more than 20 years. www.littleinn.com Air Canada’s award-winning inflight magazine, enRoute, announced their Top 10 list of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2014, as well as the Best New Restaurants 2014 People’s Choice Award. On a month-long culinary journey that took noted food writer Andrew Braithwaite from Tofino, British Columbia to St. John’s, Newfoundland, he discovered a group of chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs who continued

www.eatdrink.ca

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to explore this country’s terroir and redefine what it means to dine out in Canada. Read more: ethicalgourmet.blogspot. ca/2014/10/air-canadas-enroute-magazine-announces.html

Stratford …

Mercer Hall Craft Beer Dinner Series. Chefs Tim Larson and Sean Collins create 4 courses matched with 4 beers from a different craft brewery each month. Learn about the breweries and the process while enjoying seasonal and staple products from these artisan breweries. Overnight packages are available with Mercer Hall guest rooms. On November 20, the partner brewer is Flying Monkeys Brewery from Barrie.

On December 18, Block Three Brewing Company from St. Jacobs will be there. www.mercerhall.com/supper-club If your senses light up with the first signs of Christmas, then Stratford’s annual Yuletide Tour of Home is the place you’ll want to start. Presented by the local chapter of IODE, the tour features four beautiful city homes and one gracious country home, all decorated by local designers in the tantalizing sights, sounds, textures and aromas of the season. At Royal Palisade tourers can feast on hot mulled cider and mouthwatering Christmas goodies created under the direction of executive chef Liz Tracey. November 22 and 23. 519-271-8745, stratfordiode@gmail.com, or on Facebook.

Bradshaws Christmas Open House is an annual shopping tradition in downtown Stratford, marking the beginning of the holiday season. Visit this event for delicious food samplings, new product demos, and the best assortment of holiday gifts, foods and kitchenware. Enter to win door prizes and receive a FREE gift with purchase. Thursday November 6th 5–8pm. www.bradshawscanada.com We love Monforte Dairy’s 30 varieties of artisanal cheese available at over 30 farmers markets, and catching a local seasonal meal (preferably with cheese!) at Monforte on Wellington, a relaxed osteria style restaurant. Now the Monforte Home Farm is part of the family, where the community will come for sustenance, learning and revitalization. In March 2015, the Monforte Dairy Artisanal Cheesemaking School will be launched.

Want to be a food critic? Stratford Chefs School aspiring chefs are preparing favourite classic menus with passion and skill and invite you to join them. The Classic Dinner Series is served at The Prune, while 3-course lunches designed by the students take place at Bijou Friday and Saturday. www. stratfordchef.com Mercer Hall presents The SUPPER CLUB. This is a long table dinner with a themed menu and guests are encouraged to dress up to match the theme. How about donning that ugly Christmas sweater for “The Griswalds” dinner? Tickets are $50, include a feature cocktail and 4-5 course dinner. Cocktails begin at 6pm

growers & creators of fine lavender products

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EAT-IN OR TAKE-OUT

572 Adelaide Street, London 519-434-6736

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca

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and dinner is served family-style in the private dining room.

December 20. 519-271-9202, www.mercerhall.ca/supper-club Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market is moving inside, to a NEW location — The Falstaff Family Centre, Stratford, 35 Waterloo Street, Stratford. The market you know and love is open Sundays from 10 am–2 pm all year round. www. slowfoodperthcounty.ca

Scotch and Chocolate: Share the warmth as Kristene Steed of Rheo Thompson Candies pairs up with a whisky expert for a smooth tasting of scotch and chocolate. Saturday, December 13. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings

A Wind in the Willows Christmas — Join Alternative Theatre Works this holiday season in this delightful familyfriendly adventure to Mole End! This fresh adaptation by Alternative Theatre Works Blue Cheese and Port, one of of A Wind in the Willows is We want your the classic food and beverage back and sure to be a holiday pairings will be discussed and classic in Stratford. Special tasted with several variations guest Graham Greene takes Do you have culinary news or upcoming events on the character of Toad, of blue veined cheeses and that you’d like people to know about?

3 different ports. Saturday, joining some of Stratford’s November 22 at The Milky most beloved actors, Stephen eatdrink has thousands of readers across Whey Fine Cheese Shop.

Russell, Brad Rudy and Southwestern Ontario www.visitstratford.ca/tastings Robert King. Come and Get in touch with us at share this heartwarming tale editor@eatdrink.ca Stratford Farmers’ Market is of friendship, generosity and a year-round market operating the joy of being home for since 1855. Fresh produce, crafts, Christmas in Stratford. The cast meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex–Agriplex, 353 is pleased to welcome Stratford actress Jessica Seguin as McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7 am–12 pm. 519-271-5130. Head Mouse! The Masonic Hall, December 17–30. Don’t miss www.stratfordfairgrounds.com out on an experience that is sure to bring joy to your whole family this festive season. www.visitstratford.ca/wind

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Five Fortune Culture RESTAURANT

366 Richmond Street at King www.fivefortuneculture.com

226 667 9873

117 King Street

across from Budweiser Gardens

519-434-2272 (CASA) www.lacasaristorante.com

OPEN

Monday–Saturday Lunch & Dinner

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www.eatdrink.ca

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farmers & artisans

The Food Web Part 4 — Autumn to Winter

By ANTONY JOHN

T

he passing of Labour Day heralds a number of changes to our farm.

From now until the snows of December, we are entering full harvest mode, and everything rides on its successful conclusion.

We have invested up to eight months on some crops such as celeriac and leeks, seeding, transplanting, weeding, more weeding, and protecting them from various pests and diseases. All this has soaked up large amounts of time, space, organic inputs, and labour, and it’s too easy to lose one’s shirt over inefficiencies at harvest time.

There is a system for doing everything on a farm. I learned that fresh out of university on my first trip home to Tina’s farm. The only thing that kept me going mucking out the calf pens was pride, as Tina out-paced me time and again, forking manure-packed straw into a wheelbarrow. She had a system, and I would do well to learn it.

It is therefore a good thing that when the time comes to harvest the fruits (well, vegetables) of our labour, our crew has had

eight months to learn the various systems we’ve developed, to quickly and carefully harvest each of the 50 or so crops we grow. I don’t think I can say enough about the skill level required to efficiently harvest items requiring a high degree of in-field editing for our discerning customers, or how impressed I am by our team’s ability to carry it off week after week, in any weather.

There is more than just a shift in tempo and scenery on our farm as we move into fall.

Around the middle of August, the soundscape changes, almost overnight. Now that the young of the season have fledged and left their nests, male birds no longer need to expend energy advertising territories (remember, efficiency), and so they stop singing. Fall is the time of the insects. The farm chorus switches from the complex harmonies and arias of the birds, to the buzzes, chirps, and trills of cicadas, grasshoppers, crickets, and katydids, while the ever-present bees provide

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Harvesting the leeks and Dino Kale

To market, to market

Kalette sprouts a background drone (pun intended), and more and more butterflies appear, to feed on developing flowers. It’s as if the insects are providing a soundtrack for the buzz of energy and electricity on our farm as it gears up for fall harvest.

The most important consideration in the crops we grow isn’t yield, it’s flavour. As I see it, there are four forces at work that, in combination, will have a huge bearing on the flavour of the food we grow. They are: seed, soil, climate, and the farmer.

There is huge variation in flavour intensity and profile within each vegetable seed variety available on the market, and the farmer typically balances practical

considerations such as days to maturity or ease of mechanical harvest, with the flavour characteristics of each variety, as he makes his choice of what to grow (yes Virginia, there IS a trade off here).

Soil also has a massive bearing on flavour development, and the farmer (working with soil consultants), has the ability to manage much more than the N, P, and K levels (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), to boost flavour and shelf life through micronutrient management as well.

Climate, and its impact on flavour, is the main reason why our farm is such a late finisher in the harvest race. As root crops develop, fall frosts trigger a biochemical reaction in the still-growing crops. Belowfreezing temperatures signal the plants to manufacture anti-freeze, so the roots survive the winter, and that anti-freeze (luckily for us), is sugar. Successive frosts cause the plants to convert the starches in their roots into sugars (evolutionarily speaking, that’s one of the reasons they have starchy roots in the first place). Once again, it’s up to the farmer to take advantage of this or not, through planting and harvest timing.

As with most things in life, it seems that one can’t grow good tasting food without a trade-off in effort.

As the Snow Buntings arrive in December to overwinter on our farm (and eat our pigweed seeds!), we will be wrapping up our harvest and, hopefully, filling our cold storage with healthy, tasty vegetables for our restaurant and market customers, through Christmas dinner and into the cold months of winter. Come January, we start the cycle again.

ANTONY JOHN is an organic farmer, painter and avid birdwatcher.

He lives near Stratford. This is the fourth and final in a series of reflections on the food we grow and buy.

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travel

Deliciously Lost in Italy

By CLAUDIA VIANI

I

have lost count of how many times I have been to Italy, and whenever someone asks me where to go and what to see there I simply tell them to “get lost”. Whether you’re travelling independently or on a scheduled tour, to truly capture the essence of this beautiful destination make sure that you always find time to explore and to make discoveries on your own.

I recently travelled there with 27 photo enthusiasts, and our 14-day journey began in the Eternal City. First stop was a mostly private stroll on the antique Appian Way, one of the earliest and most strategically important roads of ancient Rome. Today it is mainly enjoyed by locals, as a passeggiata and an escape from the summer heat and tourist crowds ... which we also later encountered. Few cities in the world can compare with Rome and its ancient wonders…the Colosseum, the Forum, the Palatine Hills and, of course, the three main piazzas — the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and my favourite, Piazza Navona. The other must-see is Vatican City, showcasing Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican Museums, and one of Michelangelo’s masterpieces, the Sistine Chapel.

A delicious discovery in the Tuscan city of Lucca

For three days we walked, experienced, and photographed, and soon discovered that most of the tourists are gone by sundown, allowing us to savour quiet evenings dining al fresco in local cafés and trattorias. Fresh-out-of-the-oven lasagna, minestrone and various pasta dishes with local wine selections were enjoyed by all…diets forgotten or ignored. My most memorable Roman dish was ricotta and spinach filled homemade ravioli, with either a porcini mushroom or gorgonzola sauce. The owner proudly allowed me to sample both. Unfortunately I discovered this dish on our last evening.

We moved on to Tuscany, travelling bright and early towards the Val D’Orcia region. After busy and hectic Rome, this provided a peaceful and serene environment. Brief stops to enjoy a local village At San Donato Winery, on the hills of San Gimignano

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Il Duomo dominates the skyline of Florence. Left, detail from a statue in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome antique car show and the quaint hill­ top town of Pienza left us all wanting more of the same, but Siena awaited.

We were welcomed with a typical Italian Sunday pranzo (mid-day meal). After the anti­ pastos and three types of pasta were served, I recognized the panic in everyone’s faces, upon the realization that this was only the second course of our lunch, with at least two more to come. I have often witnessed this reaction at my parents’ home with first-time meal guests. We persevered and after lunch waddled through what was left of our afternoon in what is likely Italy’s loveli­ est medieval city. Fortunately Siena was built over three hills, allowing us to walk off most of our meal.

Next stop and base for five days was Lucca. A beautiful Tuscan town protected by perfectly preserved thick 16th-century walls, Lucca is a city to stroll through.

Featuring some of Italy’s finest medieval and Renaissance architecture, superb cuisine and shopping, a few of the must-sees are the Piazza Anfiteatro (built on the site of an original Roman amphitheatre), the Guinigi Tower with a tree growing on top, and of course the city’s wide walls — which can be enjoyed either on foot or by bicycle (the town offers bike rentals by the day or the week.)

Everyone loved Lucca. This is where we enjoyed the best thin-crust wood oven pizza and savoured two other memorable dishes: local meat-filled tordelli with ragout sauce (probably lovingly handmade by someone’s nonna), and tagliatelle with freshly shaved white truffles. Need I say more? Oh yes — local wines and gelato!

As a traditional Lucchese I ended each meal with a corretto (espresso coffee with a splash of liquor — I preferred Sambuca).

Our group leader is now also hooked, and will be trying it at home.

From Lucca we enjoyed a day trip to Cinque Terre, the perfect sunny day allowing us to reach the five villages by boat. Another day brought us to Monteriggioni and a leisurely wine tasting and lunch at a nearby winery, which resulted in the cancellation of a planned visit to San Gimignano. These things happen when one is experiencing la Dolce Vita.

Buildings are terraced on the steep and rugged landscape of Cinque Terre

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A Taste of Europe since 1974

40 YEAR

Anniversary

Giovanni, barista at the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo di Lorenzo Togneri, in Barga, offered samples of local cheese and cured meats We also enjoyed our trip to another medieval town, Barga — aka “The most Scottish place in Italy”. The link to Scotland dates back to the early 1850s and many locals still maintain a strong connection to their Scottish roots. Arriving in the early afternoon allowed us the luxury of wandering the streets practically on our own. For avid photographers this is a wish come true, as there will not be any (other) pesky tourists featured in their perfectly framed shot!

Giovanni, a very colourful barista at the Bar Spuntineria da Aristo, invited me to sample local cured meats and cheese, which this area of Tuscany (Garfagnana) is well known for in culinary circles. In return I promised that I would mention him and include his photograph with this article.

We moved on to Florence (our home for three nights) via brief visits to the seaside town of Viareggio and the Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa. Our photographers were quite creative in their compositions while in Pisa, one actually framed a perfect shot of the tower so that it no longer leaned!

Along with group visits to iconic landmarks and points of interest such as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Brunelleschi’s Duomo, Michelangelo’s David and Ponte Vecchio, we ventured out on our own and came back

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The hill town of Montalcino, in Tuscany is famous for its Brunello (one of Italy’s best-known and expensive wines) losing myself in a local Sunday afternoon antique flea market.

After much gelato and many photographs of this Renaissance city, we moved on to the last leg of our incredible trip, Venice! One of the most interesting and lovely places in the world, this “open air museum” contains the world’s most artistic masterpieces per square kilometer. It was with exciting discoveries. One was the English built on a marshy lagoon and is almost the same as it was six hundred years ago. Linked Cemetery, where over half of the unique and by over 450 bridges it provides delightful decorative graves are occupied by members surprises at every turn. One of the highlights of the Anglo-Florentine community of the was a guided tour of Venice’s famous La early 1800’s, including poet Elizabeth Barrett Fenice Opera House, a renowned landmark Browning and American sculptor Hiram in the history of Italian theatre. Like the Powers. Another was the incredible church phoenix for which it was named, it finally and museum of Santa Croce, the burial rose from the ashes for a third time in 2004. place of Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo. I also enjoyed Restored to its former glory, it has since regained its status among the world’s top opera houses.

Whether you partake in a gondola ride, visit one of the many cathedrals or galleries, or enjoy a cappuccino in St. Mark’s Square while watching the world go by, Venice is not to be missed. Whenever I visit I make a point of venturing away from the popular areas to discover the calm, beautiful, magical side of this city. Before long I find myself in a Venice with kids kicking a soccer ball around a deserted campo, and locals sitting in park benches chatting with their neighbors. I briefly close my eyes and take in the familiar aroma of fresh cappuccino coming from nearby cafés.

That is how I feel most at home and deliriously lost in Italy!

CLAUDIA VIANI is an avid traveller and has worked in the travel industry for over 35 years. She is a Director, Leisure Operations Canada, for Carlson Wagonlit Travel..

Colourful buildings line the canal in Burano, an island in the Venetian Lagoon

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www.eatdrink.ca

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in the garden

Decorating Outside-In Bring Nature Indoors for Outstanding Holiday Displays

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

Y

ou might be surprised what you can find for holiday decorating in your own yard. Check it out now to survey the possibilities for when the time is right. Pour yourself a holiday drink to put you in the mood, and try to look at your outdoors with new eyes.

Have two drinks and you will! Remember that using fresh means that it has a “shelf life” and by cutting your own you get the freshest!

Any evergreen can work beautifully in holiday arrangements. Each has its own character and fragrance. Take advantage of your private source and design accordingly. Maybe something could use a little pruning? If so, wait until you’re ready to decorate before you prune.

Twigs are very popular for winter arrangements and red osier dogwood is a favourite because of its perfect deep red colour. However, any twig with an interesting bark will give you a great look: birch, paperbark maple, willow, curly willow and kerria are all great choices. Look at your trees and shrubs without the leaves with this in mind, and again, maybe something needs a little pruning.

If you have conifers in your garden, you have a source of cones. Spruce, pine and even the tiny cones on cedars are decorative. Cones can be arranged in a clear vase with berries added, or incorporated into arrangements for your table or outdoor urns and wreaths.

Don’t worry if you don’t have your own, you can still be crafty by supporting locally sourced greens from markets and independent garden shops.

Winterberry on White Birch

Holiday arrangement

Red Osier Dogwood, Boxwood, Cedar cones

Indoor Blooming Beauties!

If you enjoy long-blooming flowers indoors in the winter months, they don’t get more rewarding than Amaryllis. Most are native to South Africa and are sold in the fall for us to enjoy, potted up indoors.

The larger the bulb, the more blooms — the topsize bulbs often give you two to three stalks each with five to seven flowers per stalk — what a show!

Planning is important as different varieties bloom at different times. There are a few varieties that will bloom for the holidays, but act fast as their bloom time is approximately six weeks from

Winterberry and Pine

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Beautiful indoor winter blooms — Amaryllis (left) is available in numerous colours and varieties, and Paperwhites (below left) offer a fresh spring scent.

planting. These early bloomers come in crisp whites, cherry reds and combinations of the two — perfect for a holiday arrangement.

Often they are planted singly, and can be placed anywhere, but a grouping of three or five in a large container makes a great feature centrepiece. For holiday bloomers, choose from some new arrivals this year: Vixen — a deep red; Comet — a white petal with red brush strokes; Blitzen — red petals with white accents; or Dancer — pure white petals with a green throat. Many other varieties are available that will bloom into the new year — perfect for winter enjoyment and for gift giving. There are more colours and variety options with the later bloomers.

Colours such as chartreuse, deep red, pinks and lemon yellow are so welcome in the middle of winter. Later blooming choices also offer lush double petal varieties and novelty selections that are shorter and

multi-flowering. They offer great value and last for weeks in bloom. For best and most reliable results, pot up your Amaryllis in a container with drainage, using fresh potting soil. Finish the pot with moss, cones or decorative stones.

Paperwhites are another favourite for indoor arrangements as they are very easy to grow and produce a great show. Customers have commented lately their strategy for Paperwhites is to buy extra bulbs and pot up some now (approximately six weeks to bloom from planting). Store the extra bulbs in the crisper for planting into the new year. Many love the sweet fresh spring fragrance, but if you find the fragrance too strong, place your arrangement in your foyer or somewhere you’re not sitting — they can take the cool drafts of the door opening and closing.

Paperwhites are typically not planted in soil. Using a dish or favourite container with no drainage, fill the bottom two to three inches with stones, pea gravel or glass beads, etc. Place the bulbs on the “stones” and top up with enough more stone to hold the bulbs in place (one inch). Fill with water to the bottom of the bulb and your work is done!

Surprisingly, both Amaryllis and Paperwhites grow best in indirect light and away from any heat source, so they make an easy to grow, perfect houseplant.

Using your garden as your private collection of holiday materials is both challenging and rewarding. You might be surprised with what you find and will very likely enjoy creating your own fresh arrangements. The Amaryllis and Paperwhites work well with fresh material for holiday decorating, as they give the complimentary textures and pop of colour.

Enjoy your holiday decorating and have a happy holiday season.

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, and at various gardening events around the region.

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wine

Launching 2015 in Style The 10th Anniversary London Wine & Food Show

SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE, CRAFT BEERS, SPIRITS AND WINES.

By CECILIA BUY

L

ondon is situated in one of the most systems, as well as improved agriculturally productive areas of food- and farmland in Ontario, and for over beveragea hundred and fifty years Western related facilities Fair has hosted fairs, competitions, sales and other events for farmers, producers and will make January 15-17, the new venue more pleasurable for2015 both consumers from the surrounding region. visitors and exhibitors.

About ten years ago the Agriplex was So, what exactly can you expect from this constructed specifically to host livestock shows and agricultural events in the Western Fair District.

Around the same time, Londoners flocked to the first annual Wine & Food Show, a three-day event that 98% 98% celebrates the culinary life of Ontario. $ 10 This coming January will see a very apt convergence of venue and event, #LDNWineFood when the 10th Annual Wine& Food Show is held in the newly refurbished Agriplex.

Each successive year the Wine & Food Show has provided more visitors the opportunity to discover and enjoy more food and beverage products, and Entertaining chefs, such as 2014 visitor Bob Blumer (above), related businesses and services. The move to the Agriplex will offer a much cookbook author and TV “gastronaut,” attract appreciative larger space than the previous location audiences throughout the three-day event (the combined Progress and Canada show? Advance tickets are twelve dollars. buildings). Upgrades to the electrical, If you plan to taste (of course you plan to heating/ventilation and air-conditioning taste!) you’ll get ten sample coupons for ten dollars. (There is a couple’s package available). Exhibitors offer samples for varying numbers of coupons.

Visit individual winemakers, brewers and distillers from across Ontario, as well as agents and international distributors. Check out booths where local and regional restaurateurs, caterers and hotels and inns offer THU 5PM–10:30PM | FRI 5PM–10:30PM | SAT NOON–10:30PM

Plan on buying products showcased by exhibitors*

would recommend this show to others*

Celebrate the 10th anniversary of the London Wine & Food Show by expeiencing the event on opening night for only $10

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The show presents dozens of unique opportunities to try something new

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information, as well as food samples from their chefs.

Discover arti­ sanal cheeses, chocolates and pastries, organic foods, and locally roasted coffees.

If you can think of a food or a beverage that is produced in The Cooking Stage presents demonstrations on cooking, food and wine pairing, and more Southwestern Ontario, you’ll probably find it at the Wine & Food Show — to get a sample of the finished dish. There offered by the people who make it, bake it, are also demonstrations and sampling or brew it, ready and willing to answer your sessions for classic wine and cheese and questions. other food pairings and tasting seminars on Have a taste (or a thirst) for knowledge? your favourite beverages: wines and beers, There are cooking stage presentations by certainly, and perhaps even on bourbon chefs, mixologists and food producers. or vodka. (Tasting seminars are free, and Take a seat to enjoy the action or get up popular. So register when you arrive to make close so you can be one of the lucky ones sure you have a place.)

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Sample coupons are the currency of the Wine & Food Show, allowing visitors to get a taste of the many food and beverage selections on offer.

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And because you’ll be having fun with all this tasting and discovering, you might decide to plan your next day trip, weekend road trip, or extended vacation, with the help of regional tourism or winery association representatives.

The London Wine & Food Show has become one of the premier culinary events for both exhibitors and visitors. Don’t miss this one!

The 10th Anniversary London Wine & Food Show Western Fair District , 900 King Street, London www.westernfairdistrict.com thursday january 15, 5–10:30pm friday, january 16, 5–10:30pm saturday, january 17, 12 noon– 10:30pm

Must be 19+ years to attend.

CECILIA BUY is eatdrink’s Managing Editor

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BEER MATTERS beer matters

What to Give the Discerning Foam-Head Who Has Everything

By THE MALT MONK

A

s I pen this column, I still savour the afterglow of this autumn’s profusion of crafted seasonal brews — fresh piquant wet hop ales, spicy pumpkin ales, rich satisfying orange Marzens, warming amber harvest ales and the first of the big dark brews of the frigid quaffing season.

Autumn 2014 saw the best selection of local and imported crafted seasonal brews that I can recall. It’s a great time to be a craft beer fan, with so much choice on tap at your local craft beer oasis.

This column will be a shameless plug for gift shopping — mostly for those who have a special foam-head they want to buy for, but may be a bit unsure where to start. If you haven’t the requisite beer nerd knowledge to hunt down the exotic brews a manic beirophile craves, don’t stress — this is giftcertificate-at-his-favourite-watering-hole territory. Or you can shop the beer gift packs that appear at the LCBO. But, if you want to put something special under the tree, something that won’t fail to delight the most ardent beer lover, you can’t go wrong with specialty

glassware, or unique/collectable bottle openers or other breweriana —signs, coasters, trays, mats, tap handles, etc.— all of which are prized collectables in brew nerd culture.

Appropriate glassware is an essential part of the proper presentation and enjoyment of artisan-crafted beers. Yes, the different shapes of beer glasses have a purpose. This is so important that many world class beer cafés in Europe will not serve beer unless the proper glassware is available: Weizen Glass Design: Tall and slender, rounded out into a bulge at the top.

Reason A nice thick cap which forms in the top bulb really increases the enjoyment of a wheat beer, holding in all those great spicy phenols and fruity esters — a full complement to an unfiltered hefeweizen’s taste. It also gives a visual show of the brew’s heading, effervescence and opaque coloring.

Beer Styles: Weizen, Heffeweizen, Witbier, Weizenbock, Gose

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Pilsner Flute Design: Tall glass, slender, tapering at the bottom, sometimes with a stem.

Reason: The height of the glass allows the beer to show off its colour and carbonation. A nice head can be built at the wider top opening, which will trap the floral-biscuity aroma of the beer while the bubbles spiral up from the bottom of the glass to feed the head.

Beer Styles: Pilsner, Helles Lager, Maibock, Dampftbier, Steam Beer Stangen Design: 100 ml -200 ml straight-walled cylinder, usually thin glass. The name translates as “pole,” used in Cologne and Leipzig.

Reason: Highlights the effervescence and aids in “quaffing” more than one beer.

Beer Styles: Kolsch, Gosebier French Jelly Tumbler Design: Thick ribbed tumbler in 1 and ½ pints Reason: Originally used for making preserves, became the preferred glass for serving Belgian witbiers and lambics.

Beer Styles: Witbier, Weissbier, Lambic Nonic (UK Pint) Design: Basically cylindrical, wider at the mouth than the bottom, with a slight bulge just below the rim.

One of the most common beer glasses, with several European variations.

Reason: Wide mouth allows proper amount of head to form. Glass won’t slip from hands when sweating because of the grip bulge. Easy to handle, stack and store.

Beer Styles: Lager, Pale Ale, ESB, Mild Ale, IPA, Stout, Porter, Beer cocktails Dimpled Mug Design: Round and squat, thick sides, with a handle.

Reason: Allows a large quantity of beer, with plenty of room for head. Sturdy enough for sliding down the bar and for toasting. Use handle to hold the beer without warming it. A quaffer’s delight.

One of 2014’s

TOP 10 Beer Bars in Canada

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Beer Styles: Golden/Amber Ale, Lager, IPA, Porter, Bock, Stout, Cream Ale — any session beer.

Stoneware Stein Design: From plain to elaborately decorated fired stone vessel — usually 1 liter, often with a hinged lid.

Reason: Traditional Germanic beer vessel keeps beer cold, closed cap keeps head and beer fresh (and insects or other airborne objects out of your beer), hard to break.

Beer Styles: Pale lagers, Marzens, Hellerbier, Edelhell, Altbier, Dunkel

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Flute Design: Elegant and tall, resembling a champagne glass with a slightly shorter stem Reason: Presentation — allows the colours of the beer to tease the eye as the natural bubbles spiral up the sides, particularly lambic fruit beers.

Design aids carbonation retention.

Beer Styles: Lambic, Faro, Weizenbock, Saison, Printemps, bottle-conditioned sparkling brews Tulip/Thistle Design: The tulip glass has a bulbous body, supported by a stem. Narrows and then widens at the top. The Thistle’s bottom bulb more pronounced and is the only glass for scotch ales.

Reason: Use stem to hold the beer without warming it. The mouth design promotes a nice hefty head, trapping delicious flavor within the beer, and holding its aromas close.

Beer Styles: Scotch Ales, Pale Ale, Strong Ale, Old/Reserve ales, DIPA, Lambic, Gueuze Goblet/Chalice Design: Large heavy body, wide mouth opening, supported by a thick stem. Bottom walls of glass are thick, sometimes becoming thinner near the mouth.

Reason: Traditional monastic ale vessel. Scores in the bottom of the glass allow continual carbonation, and often support up to two full inches of head.

Beer Styles: Belgian IPA, Belgian Strong Dark Ale, Trappist, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel, etc.

Malt Monk’s Pick o’ the Month

Despite the novelty name, Nickelbrook’s Pissed Off Pete’s Pumpkin Porter (limited availability, on tap only) is a seriously good, sturdy dark brew with a decent malt backbone and a spicy-roasty demeanor.

It taps off a shimmering deep dark brown cola color with ruby highlights and holds its creamy off-white cap well. The aroma is big with roasty-cocoa, a very slight smokiness then highlighted with pumpkin pie spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, some cloves) plus a barely detectable musty herbaciousness mingling with the hop tones. The flavour is a delight with elements coming together on the palate in a well-managed amalgam, giving a great sense of enjoyment and comfort as it slowly goes a bit dry, in a clean roasty-zesty finish. Great brew with a goofy name — rebrand it and my money says it would be a popular seasonal in bottle or can.

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Snifter Design: The bottom bulges into a bowl shape, tapering into a narrow mouth, just as traditional cognac and brandy glasses.

Reason: Head and aroma retention. Meant for refined beers with a strong bouquet aroma, to give nose access to these beers as they warm in the glass.

Beer Styles: Barleywine, Strong Ale, Pale Ale, IPA, Eisbock, Double Stout, Robust Porter, Tripel, Quadrupel, Foot/Yard/Boot Design: Unique glassware for fun and beer games. The yard and foot glass are named for their height. Typically a long cylinder with a trumpet mouth bulging out into a bowl at the bottom. The boot glass resembles a boot, and is usually of thicker glass.

Reason: The yard glass is mostly used for pub contests, to see who can drink the most beer the quickest. Legend has it this contest was developed by stagecoach drivers, who drank much in a hurry — a stand is needed for these.

The boot glass owes its origins to a crafty general who bragged if his troops won he’d drink beer from a boot.

Beer Styles: Usually mild or moderate session ales and lagers.

Where to shop? Support your local retailers: www.bradshawscanada.com www.jillstable.ca www.kissthecookonline.com www.trimen.com (formerly Restaurant Equipment & Supply)

Foam Watcher News

Beer Lab Brewing Company is up and running in London. The business plan calls for small batch, barrel aged artisinal beers to be sold on tap solely at Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium. Beer Lab Brewing is a collective enterprise involving Adil Ahmid, Milos Kral (of Milos pub) and the “Denim Bros.”

So far they have produced an interesting well-hopped pale utilizing Citra, Nelson Sauvin, and Mosaic hops called “Hellooooo Nurse,” a heavy session ale. Brown Porter and other great barreled offerings are in the conditioning stage.

Capacity is small so the released brews are gobbled up quickly — best to keep informed when one goes on tap. There is a Facebook page for release info.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

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55

cookbooks

Jamie’s Comfort Food Scrumptious Happy Classics

By Jamie Oliver Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

J

amie Oliver has made it his life’s work to make good food accessible to everyone. He’s made a meal in 15 minutes, made it affordable, brought it to school lunches, brought it into communities, and had it prepared by at-risk youth. He has tried to reduce the risk of poor health due to lack of nutrition in at least two countries. There’s no doubt that he knows about food.

In his latest book, Oliver brings us his take on the food that makes us feel fantastic.

Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy Classics isn’t about unusual ingredients or trendy techniques. It’s about making delicious food that fills you up physically and emotionally — and about making the best possible version of that food.

These are the recipes you cook because you want to surprise your other half with a special meal, because you had a hard week and need some pampering, or because your friends are coming over to watch a game and have a few drinks. The ones you make because you got a promotion and want to celebrate. These are recipes for real life.

I believe that the best cookbooks inspire read­ ers with great photos, and this book delivers in spades. Every dish has at least one picture by award-winning pho­ tographer David ­Loftus and they all look amazing.

There’s even a beautiful picture of porridge, some­ thing I would have thought impossible. To anyone who loves food, this book is worth the 40 bucks just for the p ­ hotos.

Oliver surrounds himself with a team of experts whose food-ninja skills shine through in this book. There’s a photo index with nutritional information to help you decide how the recipes fit into your lifestyle. Estimated preparation times make it easier to plan your meal and the index lets you know which recipes are suitable for vegetarian diets. All of this in a book which is not meant to be about dieting, time-saving or vegetarianism.

It speaks to Jamie Oliver’s belief that food is a part of life, all the time and should always be just that simple.

The biggest challenge in this review was deciding which recipes to try first. My husband was kind enough to make the Best Bun Cha Bowl, as he knows it’s one of my favourite weekend lunches. This version was very satisfying. I particularly like the shredded cabbage tossed with the tangy dressing. It was a nice kick among all the fresh vegetables. I’d probably skip the pork next time and double up on the shrimp. The beauty of this recipe is that it’s infinitely Jamie Oliver adaptable. If you like your food spicy, as we do, I’d suggest adding extra chiles to the dressing, or use your favourite hot sauce. A shot of Sriracha would make this just right.

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The Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich is a new twist for me but I’ll use any excuse to make homemade bread. In this case a gorgeous focaccia was the perfect vehicle for the wonderfully messy eggplant parmigiana.

I did scale back the recipe; the original was written to serve 16 people! It’s definitely on the menu the next time we have a bunch of people over.

Anyone who has watched Jamie Oliver cook on TV is familiar with his fast-paced, high-energy style of talking. The recipes

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read exactly the same way. You can almost hear him narrate the story of the food as you read. If the book has one flaw, it’s that all this wordiness makes the print tiny. It’s a small price to pay for such an inspiring cookbook.

I hope my family isn’t reading this right now because for Christmas they are all getting a copy of Jamie’s Comfort Food.

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes courtesy of Jamie’s Comfort Food; Scrumptious Happy Classics (Harper Collins Publishers Ltd; Sept 2014; $38)

Best Bun Cha Bowls Serves 4 50 minutes 539 calories 1 large handful of shelled unsalted peanuts ¼ of a green cabbage 1 bunch of fresh mint (1 oz) ½ a bunch of fresh basil (½ oz) 4 scallions ½ an iceberg lettuce 7 oz bean sprouts (ready to eat) ½ an English cucumber 2 carrots 5 oz vermicelli rice noodles 8 large raw shell-on jumbo shrimp 7 oz pork belly (skin removed) 1 onion 4 tablespoons hoisin sauce DRESSING 3 fresh red chiles 2 heaping tablespoons superfine sugar 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 4 tablespoons fish sauce 2 limes This is a Vietnamese classic from Hanoi — “bun” means fine noodle, “cha” means fatty pork — and it’s often served in markets at lunchtime when you’re allowed to grill on the street. It’s served cold in summer and hot in winter, so it’s a real all-year-round dish. The idea is to build your own bowl, choosing the combination of meat, herbs, and veggies that you fancy. I’ve paired pork belly with delicious sticky shrimp here, to give this version an extra edge.

What we’re going to do is assemble a load of little bowls and plates of garnishes, but we’ll kick it off by making a big jam jar of dressing. Finely chop 2 chiles and place in a large clean jar with the sugar, vinegar, fish sauce, lime juice, and 1/3 cup of boiling water.

Secure the lid and shake well until sugar is dissolved.

Toss the peanuts in a frying pan, smash them up with a mortar and pestle, and place in a bowl. Very finely slice the cabbage (ideally on a mandolin — use the guard!) and scrunch well with 4 tablespoons of the dressing and an extra swig of vinegar in a bowl. Pick the mint and basil leaves into bowls of cold water. Trim and finely slice the scallions and the remaining chile, shred the iceberg lettuce, and put it all on a little plate with the bean sprouts. Halve the cucumber lengthwise and seed

Se G i f t aso Ce na rtifi Av l Gi cate ail ft B s + ab as le! ke ts

№ 50 | November/December 2014 with a teaspoon, then finely slice (I like to use a crinkle-cut knife). Peel the carrots and grate into another bowl. Pour boiling water over the noodles, cover, and leave to soak for 5 minutes, or until soft, then drain and refresh under cold water.

Peel the shrimp, leaving the tails on, run your knife down the back, and pull out the veins, then run the knife down again to butterfly them. Chop the pork belly quite finely and fry in a hot pan until golden while you peel and finely slice the onion, then add it to the pan. Stir-fry for 5 minutes, then throw in the shrimp. Cook for a final couple of minutes, add the hoisin to glaze everything, and tip onto a plate.

Place all your garnishes in the middle of the table with the jam jar dressing and four large serving bowls, and let everyone build their own exciting bun cha bowl. *Embrace the spirit of this recipe and tweak the ingredients to your liking. Grilled squid would be delicious, as would slices of perfectly cooked steak. It’s also a great opportunity to embrace any seasonal veggies you can get your hands on.

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Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich Serves 16 2 hours 40 minutes Plus Proofing 476 Calories FOCACCIA 1 x ¼-oz package of active dry yeast 7 ½ cups strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting quality extra virgin olive oil PARMIGIANA 8 medium eggplants 7 oz stale bread 7 oz Parmesan cheese 8 cloves garlic 1 bunch fresh basil (1 oz) olive oil 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 ¼ cups red wine (Barbera d’Alba or d’Asti from Piedmont is perfection, or use a Valpolicella or Chianti) 4 x 14-oz cans of plum tomatoes 3 x 4-oz balls of mozzarella cheese 8 oz arugula 1 lemon Having a mouthful of this sandwich should be a human right. Eggplant parmigiana, which is a beautiful veggie side dish or main in its own right, is at the heart of this story but rammed into a soft light focaccia as a sarnie [sandwich] it’s a total game changer. It’s a great party food, especially at lunchtime with a delicious green salad and a few nice cold beers.

Whisk the yeast into 2 ½ cups of tepid water and leave for 5 minutes. Put the flour and 1 teaspoon of sea salt into a large bowl and create a well in the middle. Pour in the yeasty water and use a spoon to bring in the flour until it becomes too hard to mix, then bring it together with clean floured hands and knead for 5 minutes, or until elastic. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size. Knock back the dough, then push it into a large roasting pan (12 x 16 inches). Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and poke it all over with your fingertips, right to the bottom. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then leave until doubled in size again.

While the bread is proofing, preheat the oven to 350ºF. Slice the eggplants lengthwise into ¾-inchthick slices. Season generously with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Tear the bread into a food processor and whiz to fine crumbs, sprinkle over a large baking sheet, and bake for 10 minutes. Switch to the fine grater blade and whiz up the Parmesan. Peel the garlic and finely slice with the basil stalks, then fry in a large frying pan on a medium heat with a splash of olive oil and oregano until lightly golden. Pour in the wine, bring to a boil,

and cook away, then squash in the tomatoes and add 1 can’s worth of water. Bring back to a boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices with paper towels and fry them in a little olive oil in batches in a large frying pan on a high heat for a few minutes on each side, or until golden.

Cover the base of a roasting pan (10 x 14 inches) with one-third of the eggplants, top with onethird each of the tomato sauce, basil leaves, bread crumbs, and Parmesan, then tear over a ball of mozzarella. Repeat twice, then drizzle with a little olive oil. Once the focaccia has doubled in size, very gently place it in the middle of the oven. Place the parmigiana at the bottom of the oven and cook both for 40 minutes, or until the focaccia is lightly golden and cooked through and the parmigiana is bubbling. When you remove the focaccia and parmigiana from the oven, drizzle the focaccia all over with at least another 4 tablespoons of olive oil and (this is important) leave the parmigiana to rest for 30 minutes. Divide them both up into portions and stuff the sandwiches, adding some lemondressed arugula. It’s messy, but awesome.

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59

books

Gift Ideas For Fiction-loving Foodies A selection of novels about chefs, food, restaurants, kitchens and cookbooks

by DARIN COOK

M

ost foodies are familiar with Anthony Bourdain’s irreverent look at the world of chefs from a nonfiction point of view, but they may not know he has also written a handful of novels with chefs as the protagonists. Bone in the Throat (1995) is one of three such works of fiction and, as with all of his novels, relies as much on criminality and corruption as it does cooking. Bourdain tends to have mobsters, wise guys, loan sharks, con men, and murderers mingling with waiters, chefs, bartenders, busboys, and dishwashers in the restaurant world.

This story is about Chef Tommy following his culinary dreams in an attempt to escape from his binding family tree rooted in organized crime. Harvey, the owner of the restaurant where Tommy cooks, struggles to keep his business afloat in the competitive New York restaurant scene, but it doesn’t help that gangsters are continually surrounding him, to be paid at any cost.

Amid the dark and macabre storyline, Bourdain never fails to describe in great detail the activity in a restaurant kitchen, because it is what he knows best. Having been in the thick of it himself, his words paint pictures of an active restaurant, as when describing Tommy de-boning and filleting a salmon before making a fish stock — it’s not integral to the plot, but an important portrait of what the character does on a regular basis to make him who he is.

In The Cookbook Collector (2010), author Allegra Goodman introduces us to two

sisters, Jess and Emily, surrounded by a cast of assorted characters caught up in some way in the newfound wealth in Silicon Valley during the Internet technology revolution.

Unlike her sister, Jess is not attached directly to dot-com companies, but rather works in an antiquarian bookstore for George, who has been asked by elderly Sandra to appraise a cookbook collection for possible purchase.

Crammed into the cabinets of her kitchen, Sandra has 837 volumes of valuable, leatherbound cookbooks in various languages.

During the appraisal process, George and Jess come across handwritten notes, menus, clippings, poetry, and sketches in the pages of the cookbooks. George is interested in the collection for its aesthetic and historical value and intends to display them as a collection in a museum-like manner. Jess is charged with cataloguing the books; as she delves into her new job, she yearns to learn more about the original owner, who is not Sandra after all, as the layers of collectors attached to these cookbooks grows.

There is a lot more to this story than perusing cookbooks, and the characters are peppered with a plethora of the complexities

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and hardships that life can inflict. As Jess deals with personal tragedies and rocky relationships, the story behind the cookbooks leads her to a life she would never have predicted, and their antique recipes come in useful for a very special occasion.

All things Chinese, including culinary tradi­ tions, are revealed through the eyes of Lindsey Owyang in The Dim Sum of All Things (2004)

by Kim Wong Keltner. Raised in San Francisco, Lindsey generally scorns her ethnic heritage, but can’t get away from it at home, where her grandmother keeps recipes and customs from her homeland alive. Lindsey is also a closet meat-eater working as a receptionist for a vegan magazine, and we have to wonder where this incongruity will lead her.

The plot mostly revolves around Lind­ sey’s obsession with a romantic interest in her office, and even though Chinese food is not pivotal to the story, it is always present as a main player, such as in China­ town restaurants and lav­ ish banquets with shark fin soup and Peking duck prepared in traditional Chinese style.

The narrative of the story naturally reveals such Chinese eating customs as serving others first before taking food yourself. We learn about the traditional dishes of Chinese holidays, like neen-goh prepared specially for Chinese New Year, and mooncakes served during the autumn equinox. But even with Chinese culinary customs prevalent in her American household, Lindsey has her eyes opened further when she visits China with her grandmother. It is here that she learns that China is nothing like the pavilion at Disney World, and every meal was unlike Chinese food she had back home, except for some of those authentic dishes her grandmother recreated in their home.

Many important discussions occur at a dinner table while communing over food, but as Dutch author Herman Koch reveals in The Dinner (2013), they are not always lighthearted and good-natured. Amid the hubbub of a fashionable restaurant in Amsterdam, Koch sets the stage for a horrific tragedy that links two couples. The tension between the

№ 50 | November/December 2014

diners is palpable, but the reason for their meeting remains buried beneath polite dialogue and the perusing of menus.

From appetizers to main course, the sus­ pense builds during the progression of dinner, until dark secrets are revealed and the truth comes out during des­ sert. Between the deliv­ ery of meals and drinks, serious topics, family issues, and societal problems are discussed and chilling revelations that the couples share from their past are disclosed. The story is a thrilling page-turner, set amongst the normal but frenetic activity of a restaurant service.

What starts out as an ordinary meal between friends evolves into a riveting and disturbing discovery wedged between the bookends of the aperitif and digestif.

My Year of Meats (1998) by Ruth Ozeki intro­ duces us to Jane Takagi-Little, a controversial documentarian working on an unusual project with a Japanese television station. Travelling across the United States, Jane shoots episodes of My American Wife which features a series of women preparing home-cooked meals, allow­ ing Japanese audiences to witness “traditional family values symbolized by red meat in rural America.” The story is told through the eyes of two main women — Jane the filmmaker, and Akiko, a Japanese wife who dutifully watches the show and makes the recipes in her own kitchen.

The meat company sponsoring the show continually reminds Jane that “Meat is the Message” so that rump roasts, briskets, baby back ribs, and T-bone steaks are front and centre for Japanese housewives to see on their screen. There is a dichotomy to this message, however; Akiko is told to make the red meat dishes from My American Wife to feel healthier and provide the nutrients to help along her attempts at pregnancy, but as a documentarian Jane discovers that some American feedlots and slaughterhouses don’t always follow the rules.

№ 50 | November/December 2014

The novel itself is a pseudo-documen­ tary, disguised as fiction, full of social, ­environ­men­tal, medical, and personal issues that go far beyond cooking meat. Jane pushes the boundaries of her documentarian licence, but the meat company paying her bills has plenty to say about her indiscretions in trying to effect social change, rather than adhering to the mandate of advertising the cuts of meat on American dinner tables.

Destination for the food lover Enjoy your holiday season around the table.

Set on the island of Sicily, La Cucina (2000)

by Lily Prior tells the story of Rosa Fiores living on her family farm in a time when siestas were taken to break up the day and pasta was made by hand in a way that sounds more like a leisurely pastime than kitchen drudgery. Rosa says “La cucina … has formed the backdrop to the lives of our family, the Fiores, as far back as, and further than, anyone can remember. This kitchen has witnessed our joys, griefs, births, deaths, 115 King Street, London, ON nuptials, and fornications for hundreds of jillstable.ca 519-645-1335 years.” An ancient, oak table is as central to the kitchen as the kitchen is to the house. This is the table on which Rosa was Now born when her mother O A t he rdercsceptin started labour while Ho2014-10-15 EatDrinkAd_Revised.indd 1 lidafor g making pasta one day. ys After the untimely, Mafia-related death of Meats & So Much More! her first love, Rosa exiles herself to the kitchen to deal with lost love in what she calls her “culinary catharsis.” She finds solace in the kitchen by dabbling in endless food-making projects from the bounty of the farm — cheese making, pasta rolling, bread baking, vegetable pickling, fruit preserving, and livestock slaughter.

After many years, a mysterious Englishman who is researching ancient Sicilian cookbooks appears at the library Hormone & Drug-Free Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb 100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table where she works and a budding romance relieves her of years of grief. After years of mourning, and plenty of hard work in the kitchen to please others with outstanding Italian food, Rosa finds out that some We are your London outlet for Metzger Meat Products, dreams do come true and redemption can The Whole Pig, Blanbrook Bison Farm and Lena’s Lamb, be achieved. with sauces and spices from DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and plays in Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

BEER MATTERS

theatre

On The Boards Holiday Theatre Offerings

By RICK YOUNG

T

his is my first On the Boards column for eatdrink magazine.

I will be writing about all things related to the myriad of regional professional and amateur theatre companies in the London area.

Some of you may know me as Richard Young, the former publisher/managing editor of The Beat Magazine, an independent print and online arts publication that covered the local arts scene from 2009 until 2014. I am a retired secondary school History and English teacher, professional musician, freelance writer — and avid theatre patron.

A smorgasbord of theatre ...

As the holiday season approaches, there is a smorgasbord of regional theatre offerings, with something for everyone and every age.

So let’s take a look at what’s on the boards.

The Grand Theatre (www.grandtheatre.com), offers up Shrek the Musical on its main stage from November 19–December 28. Sure to please parents and children alike, the pro­ duction is based on the highly popular 2001 animated feature film. Downstairs in the more intimate McManus Theatre, the Western Department of English presents Dr. Faustus, November 5–8 while Mark Kileen’s

By The Book Theatre presents A Few Good Men November 25–December 6, a courtroom drama made famous by actor Jack Nicholson’s infamous line, “You can’t handle the truth” in the 1992 movie.

In the heart of the Old East Vil­ lage Entertainment District, the Palace Theatre (www.palacetheatre. ca) offers up the classic Broadway musical Mame, directed by John Gerry and starring Deborah Mitchell in the lead role, December 4–14. Gerry promises a leaner,

Before I begin with my preview of holiday theatre offerings, I want to acknowledge the fine work of my eatdrink predecessor, Donald D’Haene, in covering the local theatre scene and for all of the selfless contributions he has made to raising public awareness of the efforts of local thespians in The Beat Magazine, his website DISHing with Donald and through The Beat DISH Awards which he staged for 4 years. His columns and reviews were always entertaining and enlightening — and a tad irreverent, as only Donald can be. Thanks Donald! pared down interpretation of the ­musical which will feature two baby grand pianos on the stage. In the smaller Procunier Hall, Donald D’Haene and Dave Semple present the two-man show Hosanna, Michel Tremblay’s raw depic­ tion of love between a transsexual drag queen and a homosexual biker November 6–15.

“The love story makes the story universal,” says Donald D’Haene, who plays the drag queen. “Tremblay depicts char­ acters we rarely see on the London stage.”

D’Haene is thrilled to be back on stage.

“Besides being the role and challenge of a lifetime, when you’re ‘dancing’ on stage with an actor as brave, open and honest as Dave Semple, it certainly raises your game. Dancing with someone you trust makes the process indescribable.”

The ARTS Project (www.artspro­ ject.ca) presents Jayson McDonald’s detective fantasy The City That Eats You, featuring Meghan Brown and Valerie Cotic, November 5–8, while Neil Simon’s Fools is brought to the stage by The King’s Players November 27–29.

H NC U BR pm AYm−2 D a N 1 SU 1

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am

№ 50 | November/December 2014

London’s Original Kids Theatre Company (originalkids.ca) offers up several productions including Crazytown November 7-9; Disney’s Winnie the Pooh for Kids November 13 to 16; Bye Birdie Young Performer’s Edition Novem­ ber 20-23; Shout The Mod Musical November 27-30; The Wedding Singer December 4-7; The King & I December 12-21; capped off by the perennial family favourite A Charlie Brown Christmas December 13 and 14. Tickets for OKTC productions tend to sell out quickly, so get yours early to avoid disappointment.

Moving outside of London, we drop in on the Elgin Theatre Guild (www.elgintheatre­ guild.ca) which is presenting James Barry’s Snow White and The 7 Dwarfs done up in British pantomime or panto style December 4–14. For the uninitiated, panto is a partici­ patory style of musical comedy designed specifically for family entertainment and usually performed during the Christmas season. Audience members are encouraged to sing along and to shout out responses to the performers. Perfect fare for families this holiday season.

Stratford’s Alternative Theatre Works’ (alternativetheatreworks.com) holiday season production is A Wind in the Willows Christmas which runs December 18–30 at the Stratford Masonic Concert Hall.

Theatre Woodstock (www.theatrewood­ stock.com) brings Rogers & Hammerstein’s South Pacific with its legendary score featur­ ing songs like “Some Enchanted Evening,” “I’m Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My Hair” and others to The Market Centre The­ atre November 27–30 and December 3–6.

Over in Theatre Tillsonburg’s Otter Valley Playhouse (www.theatretillsonburg.com), theatre-goers can catch the British farce Sex Please, We’re Sixty, November 6–9 and November 13–16.

In a nutshell, there is a rich selection of live theatre on the boards in our area this holiday season, and much of it is family fare.

Get out and support your local artists!

RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local, regional and national print and online publications, was the Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.

№ 50 | November/December 2014

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

BEER MATTERS

music

Sound Bites Seasonal Treats

By NICOLE LAIDLER

N

ovember is a busy month at Western University’s Don Wright Faculty of Music. The faculty’s Symphony Orchestra takes to the stage of the Paul Davenport Theatre, November 13 and 14, with an ambitious program that includes Richard Strauss’ symphonic poem, Death and Transfiguration. “It’s very beautiful music about the last moments of somebody’s life,” says conductor Alain Trudel.

The concert also showcases the talents of two young concerto contest winners, with pianist Natalia Skomorokhova performing the first movement of Beethoven’s “Emperor” Piano Concerto No. 5, and saxophonist Mathew Henry playing Jacques Ibert’s Concertino da Camera.

objects come to life and teach a mis­ chievous boy a les­ son he won’t soon forget.

“The music is outrageously difficult for the orchestra and the singers,” says Trudel. “The students are very courageous.” www.music.uwo.ca

Handel’s Messiah is the gift that keeps on giv­ ing. Despite being debuted in April, it is now a Christmas tradition and most performances play to a packed house, bringing good cheer to the audience as well as the box office.

This season, Orchestra London gives the popular oratorio the Tafelmusik-touch under the baton of Ivars Taurins, December 3 at St. Paul’s Cathedral.

The orchestra also serves up some lighter holiday fare at Centennial Hall, with a “Christmas Pops” concert for the whole family (December 7) and “A Very Elvis Christmas” (December 12 and 13) featuring award-winning Elvis tribute artist, Stephen Kabakos. www.orchestralondon.ca Western Music will present two one-act French operas by Maurice Ravel November 21–23 at the university’s Paul Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol is Davenport Theatre another staple of the season. This year, Next up is an operatic double-bill, featur­ two productions give the Victorian classic a ing Maurice Ravel’s L’heure espagnole (The decidedly musical twist.

Spanish Hour) and L’enfant et les sortilèges More than one thousand people are (The Child and the Magic), November 21 expected to deck Centennial Hall on to 23. Both one-act operas are directed December 10 for the Unity Project’s 7th

by Michael Cavanagh, and performed by annual Christmas Carol fundraiser. The students in the faculty’s prestigious voice pay-what-you-can event features dramatic program. First performed in 1911, L’heure readings by prominent London lawyers, espagnole is a musical comedy set in a clock­ with musical accompaniment provided by maker’s workshop in Toledo, Spain. L’enOrchestra London, The London Singers and fant et les sortilèges had its debut in Monte H.B. Beal Singers.

Carlo in 1925, although Ravel began writing “Our production of A Christmas Carol car­ the score in 1917. The plot unfolds like an ries on Charles Dickens’ own tradition,” notes early 20th-century “Toy Story” as playroom Sylvia Langer, development manager of the

Celebrate the Holidays A NUTCRACKER CHRISTMAS

Nov. 29 / 7:30 pm

Amabile Choirs join the orchestra for Festive classics: The Nutcracker by Tchaikovsky and Hansel und Gretal by Humperdinck.

HANDEL’S MESSIAH Dec. 3 / 7:30 pm

Ivars Taurins conducts the ever-popular Orchestra London tradition featuring the London Pro Musica choir.

FAMILY CHRISTMAS POPS Dec. 7 / 2:30 pm

Bring the whole family and join Brian Jackson for our seasonal favourite.

A VERY ELVIS CHRISTMAS

Dec. 12 & 13 / 8:00 pm

Elvis Impersonator Stephen Kabakos’ remarkably authentic performance will create an unforgettable holiday journey.

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Unity Project for Relief of Home­ lessness in London. Langer explains that Dickens pre­ sented dramatic readings of his popular ghost story, donating all proceeds to local char­ ities for the poor. www.­ unityproject.ca Those look­ John D. Huston will perform ing for a more his acclaimed one-man perforintimate Dick­ mance of A Christmas Carol on ens experience December 21 at Aeolian Hall may be inter­ ested in John D. Huston’s acclaimed one-man performance of A Christmas Carol, December 21 at Aeolian Hall. The afternoon show will feature the sounds of London’s 20-member Wassail Choir singing Dickensian carols in period costume.

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

“It’s always a treat for me to perform in an appropriately Victorian environment, and the 1882 built Aeolian Hall really fits the bill,” says Huston on his website. “The hall’s renowned acoustics should make this the intimate theatrical experience that Dickens strove to bring his audiences.” www.aeolianhall.ca Tenor Ross Mortimer, mezzo-soprano Amanda Perrera and collaborative pianist Denis Jung return to the Aeolian stage for their second annual Carols by Candlelight, December 18.

“After last year’s sold out evening, we hope to once again share our joy and fill the audience with the holiday spirit,” says Mortimer. The trio will perform everything from popular Christmas carols to wellknown Gospel selections, with a bit of opera thrown in for good measure.

“There are such deep-rooted traditions and emotions that come with each Christmas song. It’s amazing when people come up to you after a concert and share their unique experiences of the music we just performed,” Mortimer says.

№ 50 | November/December 2014

A portion of the evening’s proceeds will support The Unity Project for Relief of Home­ lessness in London. www.aeolianhall.ca The New Year kicks off January 10 at Wolf Performance Hall with a chamber music concert featuring six well-known London musicians — Ian Franklin, oboe, Mary Beth Brown, violin, Sharon Wei, viola, Jeremy Hake, cello, Josh Grunmann, piano, and Ron George, French horn.

The concert is the brainchild of Renée Silberman, director of Serenata Music. “I always like to support and promote local talent,” she says.

Mozart’s Quartet for Oboe and Strings is likely the most familiar musical territory covered by the diverse group, who will perform in various combinations. “The idea is to bring very colourful music out of the mothballs,” says Silberman. www.serenatamusic.com NICOLE LAIDLER is a musician-turned-writer and the owner of Spilled Ink Writing & Wordsmithing. Visit her at spilledink.ca

SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS

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Welcome to a TASTE of Downtown London!

Our dining guide gives you a delicious roadmap to the many restaurants that call London’s downtown their home.

Whether you are looking for a farm-to-table meal featuring the best of local food and beverage choices, or a quick bite on the go, you can find it in our new dining guide.

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You will find more listings for our restaurants online at www.downtownlondon.ca.

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№ 50 | November/December 2014

the lighter side

The Not So Family Christmas

By DAVID CHAPMAN

L

et me say right away that I had a wonderful childhood. I loved my parents and sisters (most of the time) and apart from the incident with the shoe polish, have a lot of great memories. That incident occurred one year around Christmas. We, as a family, were getting ready to go to the pantomime — a great British tradition of theatre mixed with slapstick. The male actors would dress as females and vice versa.

There would be much silliness, as only the British can do. This particular production was Dick Whittington, a perennial favourite at Christmas.

Of course, we all had to wear our best outfits and polish our shoes. This was where the problem arose. While polishing my shoes I got some on the soles!

I proceeded to walk all through the house, leaving in my wake a trail of black shoe polish. My mother was not impressed and I received what is commonly called a thick ear. The shoes did look great though.

Another great Christmas memory involves my first working one. To many people, being obliged to work nights and holidays is something negative. But I thought: This means I am an adult, a man of the world! (a very small one mind you).

Somehow it was exciting to be finishing work at 9 p.m., when everyone else was probably in bed. (Lisburn was a pretty boring town). So the thought of working Christmas was appealing.

I still have the menu from that Christmas Day in 1965. For the grand sum of 27 shillings and sixpence one would enjoy a four-course dinner, with all the trimmings (to save you having to google what the heck 27/6 is, it would be about four dollars). There was consommé, roast turkey with gammon (you can google that), chestnut stuffing, and of course, Christmas pudding. The menu was signed by the chef with a personal note thanking me for my good work. At least I thought it was personal, until I found out that everyone got the same acknowledgement.

The nicest part of working that Christmas, though, was that I could open presents when I got home, and all the relatives had left.

DAVID CHAPMAN has been a creative and respected fixture on the London restaurant scene for over 20 years. He is the proprietor of David’s Bistro. (www.davidsbistro.ca)

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