Eatdrink #53 May/June 2015 issue

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Tania Auger’s

Chow Ciao NYC-Style in Sarnia

FEATURING

Little Red’s

Woolfs at the Door in St. Marys

Olive R. Twists A New Twist at Covent Garden Market

Goderich Road Trip

Town, Beach & Boardwalk

ALSO: Toboggan Brewing Company | Venice Three Ways | The Hops Crop | Sea Salt Recipes

STRATFORD

celebrates Spring Our spring cultural and culinary feast presents SpringWorks with more than 50 artists and a new Puppet Festival weekend. Come foraging for morels and wild ginger. Taste Stratford’s tribute to all things pork during Hog Wild Week, and get sampling on self-guided Savour Stratford Chocolate or Bacon & Ale Trails and on Flavours of Stratford culinary walks.

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OUR COVER Sarnia restaurateur Tania Auger is the woman behind Chow Ciao, another celebratory expression of her intrepid sense of style and fun.

Photo by Dixon Auger-Pennesi.

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contents

ISSUE № 53

MAY/JUNE 2015

F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E

14 18

10

The Culinary Stage: Is the Local Food Movement Elitist?

R E S TAU R A N T S

By JANE ANTONIAK

By BRYAN LAVERY

14 Chow Ciao: Tania Auger’s New Venture, in Sarnia 18

The Woolfs at the Door: Little Red’s Pub & Eatery, in St. Marys

22

A New Twist at Covent Garden: Olive R. Twists

By DAVID HICKS

By BRYAN LAVERY

FA R M E R S & A R T I S A N S

By KYM WOLFE

ROAD TR I PS

25

25 The Hops Crop: A Comeback in Ontario

22

28

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

N E W & N O TA B L E

The BUZZ

T R AV E L

42

Venice Three Ways

By ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY

Z Z U B E 34 H T

WINE 45

Cuvée Grand Tasting celebrates Ontario wines

By GARY KILLOPS

B E E R M AT T E R S

47

Toboggan Brewing Company: Mike Smith Lets His Passion Show

By THE MALT MONK

COOKBOOKS

51

Sea Salt: Recipes from the West Coast Galley

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

BOOKS

54

A Curious History of Food and Drink by Ian Crofton

Review by DARIN COOK

56

IN THE GARDEN

Herb Appeal

36

51

By JANE ANTONIAK

34

28 42

Goderich: The Town, The Beach & The Boardwalk

T H E AT R E

56

Port Stanley Festival Theatre

By RICK YOUNG

MUSIC

58

Sound Bites: Swing into Summer

By NICOLE LAIDLER

THE LIGHTER SIDE

62

Big Girl Pantries

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD

54

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

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cheers!

Ups N’ Downs, Downtown Sarnia

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

notes from the publisher

Fresh Starts and New Ventures

By CHRIS McDONELL

I

f there is a recipe for success in the res­ It is our pleasure to celebrate these entre­ taurant business, one of the ingredients preneurs in our Spring issue. is to “keep it fresh.” This is a deceptively simple concept, one that we also face We at eatdrink are proud to launch another in the magazine business. Change too many new publication for Tourism London. The things and one risks spoiling what works; 2015 London’s Local Flavour is a useful change too few and what was vital might and inspiring guide to the strong • become stale. Finding the culinary scene here. Look for • ’S • N O LOND right balance is key. And yet it online at both our website 20 15 ... sometimes, there is nothing (eatdrink.ca) or londontourism.ca R UUIDE O V better than a truly fresh start. or pick up a hard copy at Tourism G FCULLA Y IN A R We have a number of stories London, at London’s farmers’ here about veteran industry markets and around town. Share professionals starting new yours with a friend and “bon ventures. Tania Auger, whose appetit” as you explore the 0 2 Lola’s Lounge continues its riches on offer. As we like to 5 1 successful run in Sarnia, has say, “London is cooking with launched Chow Ciao. Chris and local flavour,” and if you are Mary Woolf, whose Woolfy’s was passionate about discovering a go-to spot for a generation, have and celebrating our local opened Little Red’s in St. Marys. food scene, you will find plenty of Mike Smith, whose Joe Kool’s inspiration here. and Fellini Koolini’s have been London landmarks for decades, has birthed the Happy Spring!

Toboggan Brewing Company and a new pub of the same name. And Olive R. Twists is the creation of longtime Covent Garden Market produce merchant Chris Doris and ps. Congratulations to Kelly Krol, winner of successful chef/restaurateur Greg Efstatheu. our March/April Lexus of London draw! ts ’ Marke Farmers

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

food writer at large

The Culinary Stage Is the Local Food Movement Elitist?

By BRYAN LAVERY

T

he thrust of this column, Food Writer at Large, is to present my thoughts on the seasonal food landscape — and the alwayschanging restaurant scene in Stratford and London in particular — and about what is happening not only regionally but also nationally on the Canadian culinary stage.

When I go out to eat, I am enticed by restaurants that champion farmers, smallscale producers and food artisans, by procuring products and featuring local ingredients that are responsibly sourced and presented. Often I come across people whose criticism of the local food movement has centred on the idea that it is elitist.

Being a dedicated food professional requires education and connoisseurship, which in themselves are costly to cultivate but not necessarily elitist.

Connoisseurs are distinguished for their judgment and their discerning eye. They also have an innate sense of taste. Connoisseurs

Chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic

For the past few years, chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic a follower of modern farm-totable cuisine, has not just been cooking and sourcing local and seasonal, he has ushered in a more upscale and innovative iteration of Balkan cuisine at London’s Kantina Restaurant. Kan­ tina combines Markovic’s training in Serbian cook­ ery with his affection for rustic and down-to-earth food. His realm is a scratch kitchen, and all of his offer­ ings have been crafted in-house and by hand. His repertoire has included thought-provoking takes on iconic dishes imbued with contem­ porary techniques and quality ingredients.

are respected because of their aptitude — their talent — for recognizing and appreciating subtle, often unseen attributes.

Elitists are individuals who believe they are superior to others because of their interests, intellect, status, or other factors. More on that subject later.

To keep well-versed with the culinary world, I collaborate with food businesses and enthusiasts that uphold similar culinary values to mine. I’m not exaggerating when I say that in the process of writing two culinary guides in the past couple of months, I have sat down with close to 50 restaurateurs to discuss the food scene in London. One of the more contentious topics remains the London food truck pilot project, which I’ll briefly touch upon in this column. Also, I’m sharing some brief opinions about the word “culinary,” the popularity of seasonal farmers’ markets, the Savour Stratford brand and a brief homage to Kantina’s chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic.

Markovic recently told me over lunch at the River Room that he has decided to take a well-deserved sabbatical and will be employed as an “extreme bush cook” for the summer. He is hoping to follow that with a series of stages (intern­ ships) where he hopes to acquire and be exposed to new culinary thoughts and techniques.

Kantina, on the other hand, as owner Milan Karac tells me, is expected to have a complete make­ over in the late summer.

Expect to see Markovic return to London after his sabbatical.

№ 53 | May/June 2015

The Culinary in Culinary Tourism

Interestingly, at the recent Ontario’s South­ west Tourism Conference, the Director of Product Development at the Ontario Culi­ nary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) stated that research has shown that the term culinary is perceived as being elitist. Organizations cannot grow and develop without acquiring new members. In order to reach a broader demographic and economic base, the term food tourism is now being embraced by the industry, replacing the term culinary tourism.

Dumbing down language to reach a broader demographic is nothing new. (The original usage of the term “dumbing down” was used as a slang expression in 1933 by screenwriters

Food Trucks

Food trucks serve a diverse variety of healthy options and cultural foods in other cities. In fact, food trucks are the new incubators for culinary innovation.

I am not talking about corporate food trucks serving commercially produced food. I am speaking about the chef-driven, entrepreneurial, indie food truck operators who tweet their location of the day to those in the know.

Locally, think of the Goodah Gastrotruck,

Seasonal Farmers’ Markets

Every year I look forward to the start of the outdoor farmers’ market season. In warmer weather, I generally frequent farmers’ markets and farmgates which help to sustain economic activity on a local level. The new economic reality is that farmers’ markets have become a source of competitive advantage and the preferred food-retailing operation for many consumers. Studies reveal that most market shoppers are

Toronto Culinary Scene

For the last few years, I have spent time reconnecting with and drawing inspiration from the restaurant and culinary scene in Toronto. New restaurants open every week in Toronto, and immigrant neighborhoods still feel culturally and ethnically authentic yet unique. The range of choice, gastronomically speaking, seems endless.

Recently Jacob Richler, food writer and journalist, and former National Post restaurant critic, organized a national panel

www.eatdrink.ca

11

to mean “­revising the script so as to appeal to those of lower education or intelligence.”)

I have always been interested in the origin of culinary terms and the manner in which their meanings have changed throughout history. The term “culinary” is correctly defined as something related to, or connected with, cooking. A culinarian is a person working in the culinary arts. The word culinary originated in the 17th century from the Latin term culina for kitchen or cook stove. Culina itself derived from the Latin word coquere, meaning to cook. To my way of thinking, the term culinary is anything but elitist. whose operators are gearing up to grill up their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches curbside this summer. London’s recently approved food truck pilot will operate during the summer with plans to appraise its success in the fall. Given all the bad optics around food trucks with the previous City Council, it will be interesting to see how many of the eight licences that has been made available will be purchased.

inspired to eat seasonally, which leads to altered buying and cooking patterns. It is important to keep in mind that farmers’ markets achieve an imperative part in local economic development by providing a location for local and small business incubation, generating an economic multiplier effect to neighboring businesses, and redistributing customer dollars within the community.

of judges to decide the 2015 honorees of Canada’s 100 best restaurants. This was good news for Toronto culinary enthusiasts and diners: six of the top 10 are located in Toronto, as are 28 of the top 100.

Two of my favourite restaurants serving farm-to-table Canadiana in Toronto are Actinolite and Edulis. Both restaurants feature seasonal menus comprised of wild and foraged ingredients. The Indie Ale House in the Junction is my

№ 53 | May/June 2015

Trust...

Taste...

Quality...

recommendation for craft beer enthusiasts who like great food. Chef Wayne Morris and Evelyn Wu’s Boralia on the Ossington Strip tops my most recent favourite of newly opened restaurants. Derived from the Latin word for northern, Borealia was one of the alternate names suggested for Canada during Confederation. Interestingly, at the beginning of April, Boralia ran into a trademark issue with its name. It is now called Boralia instead of the original Borealia. Boralia offers up-to-date versions of dishes inspired by indigenous peoples and early settlers — think modern riffs on Canadian frontier food. This is another great place to sample a wide-ranging selection of dishes that showcase Ontario farms.

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For the past seven years, the Stratford Tourism Alliance (STA) has established Stratford as one of Canada’s leading culinary destinations, introducing visitors to its unique food community of chefs, producers and farmers. Since its inauguration, Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival has been an opportunity to meet and engage with a genuine community of talented tastemakers and culinary advocates.

A magnet for connoisseurs, culinary enthusiasts and professionals, it became one of Ontario’s most prestigious culinary festivals — if not Canada’s.

In December 2014, the STA brought together local chefs, producers and culinary businesses to form the Savour Stratford Transition Committee. The committee voiced support in promoting the local culinary partners by mounting a new event on a smaller scale. This year, instead of the festival, the STA is focusing on continuing to market the Savour Stratford brand as a year-round celebration of local culinary experiences.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large and Contributing Editor.

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

restaurants

Cozy and Cosmopolitan Chow Cia0 Tania Auger brings “New York Italian” to Sarnia

I

t’s always so much fun to go to a Tania Augerowned restaurant.

For 19 years in Sarnia and 10 years before that in London, Auger has infused her bubbly personality, skilled bartending and joy of food into her restaurants with such success that her loyal fans follow her from iteration to iteration. Her newest member of the family is Chow Ciao in the south end of Sarnia, just off Highway 402.

Auger laughs at herself and she thoroughly enjoys her own sense of adventure when it comes to creating a restaurant. For Chow Ciao she has brought a bit of New York Italian bon vivant to Sarnia, with a menu featuring meatballs that she lovingly calls “giant family jewels” and gnocchi (“little potato pillows of love”).

Auger’s good friend and decorator Ron Nuhn assisted with the creation of Chow Ciao. The gold, black Owner Tania Auger at the gleaming bar of Chow Ciao, her new Sarnia restaurant and orange décor has lots of sparkle and even a few Auger also owns and operates Lola’s statues thrown in for good Lounge, which is still going strong in measure, including a leaning tower of Pisa on the bar and six framed Mona Lisas on the downtown Sarnia after 13 years. Previously, Auger operated 99 King in London for 10 walls. “She’s gorgeous,” states Auger with a years and also helped open restaurants big smile and a sweep of the hand. “There’s for other owners as far afield as Turkey. a thousand dollars worth of fringe in this She maintains her own popular catering place! How crazy is that?” And an Auger restaurant wouldn’t be complete without the business, for which she loves to feature “Mafia Table” — a black banquette — which meals made of appetizers. Her long-time friend, Morrell McCurrach, credits Auger as Auger has had at all her restaurants.

Photo by Dixon Auger-Pennesi

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE and DIXON AUGER-PENNESI

№ 53 | May/June 2015

CONGRATULATIONS! VITTORIOS wins THIRD & FIFTH against over 450 sauces at the 2015 National Barbecue Association competition in Nashville, Tennessee

The gold, black and orange dècor features cozy and comfortable nail-studded Parsons chairs a “very creative person who loves to have the juices flowing all the time.”

Chow Ciao has seating for 60, including a lively bar dining area that was full the night we visited. There is seating for another 30 on the patio that is draped in a canopy of lights. Auger says she was inspired by a Gusto TV program on meatballs and her love of New York City. The result is a light-hearted and tasty menu with such items as Mama Mia Meatball with Major Mozzarella and Baguette, Sicilian Meatloaf Stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Meatball Soup and two kinds of Decorative elements include “a thousand dollars worth of fringe” and a black “Mafia Table”

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

balancing a big menu with solid value and mixing in unique daily specials, such as pork tenderloin with green apple and gorgonzola cheese. His artichoke fritto with garlic aioli is light and crispy, tender and melt-in-yourmouth beautiful. As well, some of Lola’s favourites are also on the menu at Chow Ciao, including Beef Tenderloin Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing, Oysters Rockefeller, and Mussels with Sambucca, Bacon and Cream. Chow Ciao uses Purdy’s Fish of Sarnia as a supplier and Rawcliffe likes to shop at the Sarnia Farmer’s Market in season.

Cozy and cosmopolitan, plus a lot of personality is what Chow Ciao offers — just like its owner.

Chow Ciao 549 Murphy Road, Sarnia 519-337-7777 www.chowciao.net monday–saturday: 11 a.m. – close sunday: 5 p.m. – close

The Mona Lisa — “She’s gorgeous” — and Italianate statuary help create an enjoyable ambiance where the aim is to have a good time spaghettini — one with marinara sauce and the “Family Jewels” that is offered with the choice of meat or vegan, and another version with meat sauce, that is Auger’s parents’ home recipe. On Sundays she offers that item with a glass of wine for $10.

“Basically the meal is free,” she chuckles. It delights her to surprise her customers with such offerings, as what Auger loves most is a house full of people having a good time. She greets and bids goodbye to everyone — and they typically leave saying “See you next time!”

Chef Tyler Rawcliffe has done a great job Mama Mia Meatballs (left) and Artichoke Fritto with Garlic Aioli

JANE ANTONIAK loves to be on the road for eatdrink magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations at King’s University College, London.

BRUCE FYFE also loves to make meatballs and he gives Chow Ciao’s two thumbs up. He is a contributing photographer to eatdrink and a Librarian at D.B. Weldon, Western University.

Photo by Dixon Auger-Pennesi

16

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

restaurants

The Woolfs at the Door Little Red’s Pub & Eatery in St. Marys

By DAVID HICKS Photography by LUCID MUSINGS

S

itting in a sunny front window of Little Red’s Pub & Eatery in downtown St. Marys, Chris and Mary Woolf are relaxed and reflecting on the oblique turns that landed them here.

In the high turnover world of restaurants, sudden closures are not uncommon.

But when Woolfy’s at Wildwood, set on a sweeping curve of Highway 7 near St. Marys, suddenly shuttered, it was perplexing.

“It was just one of those quick decisions,” Mary recalls. “We opened Valentine’s Day 2013, someone walked in and offered to buy the property, we thought about it that night,

and closed the next day!”

“We were twenty years at that location,” explains Chris. “We built the business and clientele, raised our three kids …

Things were good, but this was a chance to make a change. Do something different.”

As founding members of the Stratford food scene, the break was due. Chris immigrated from London, England in 1976 to work at The Church Restaurant and taught two years at the Stratford Chefs School, helped start Keystone Alley Café (“Only briefly called

№ 53 | May/June 2015

The Nut Club,” he notes), and moved on a few times — Benmiller Inn, Rundles, 20 King Street in KitchenerWaterloo, then four years at Woolfy’s in downtown Stratford.

The couple met when Mary attended the Chefs School. “I always wanted to work front of house,” she says, “but I wanted the in-depth, inside knowledge the School offered.

Then I worked in kitchens for four years before taking front of house.”

So closing Woolfy’s was an opportunity to take a year off and think about what they really wanted to do. “Besides fishing,” Chris smiles.

“A lot of fishing,” Mary nods.

Reappearing Act

Just shy of a year later, February 5, 2014, the result was Little Red’s, a cozy and casual 50-seater serving upscale pub food for Woolfy’s fans. “Little Red’s Café was a space in the back of Woolfy’s,” Chris explains, “and this time we decided to go even more casual with it. Moving into St. Marys was the easy decision — we know the market and the market knows us.”

Located in a historic stone building on St. Marys’ main street, the Woolf’s were taken by the small size, high ceiling and worn floorboards. Stratford designer Scott McKowen, who created their signature Little Red Riding Hood illustration, picked the deep carnelian red for the interior, and much of the rest was a community effort. “As soon as people heard about what we were doing, they came out and cleaned, primed, painted, donated doors and knickknacks,” says Mary. “It reflects how the restaurant business has shifted to community engagement.”

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Little Red’s interior: a collaboration between designer Scott McKowen, the Woolfs, and friends in the community “People who came out to Woolfy’s for special occasions now want to spend less but go out more often. We didn’t even have a sign for the first six weeks we were open, but at the end of the season I was amazed to realize 20,000 people had come through the doors.”

Chris observes, “They want to feel a part of what you’re doing. I come out of the kitchen a lot more now to chat with people I previously only knew as order cheques. They really make you feel like part of the town.”

Local Is As Local Does

The chalkboard menu dominating the rear wall expands on the comfort food favourites that draw the regulars, like Thai chicken curry, pork schnitzel, bison burger, duck tortière and pulled duck poutine. “The desserts, including the ice creams … it’s all made in house,” he adds. “The only exception is baking by Breadtopia. Simon Fraser does a pop-up bakery here on Saturdays before we open, 10–11 a.m., and he sells out in that hour.”

“We were ‘local’ before there was local,” Chris continues. “In the early days at The Church and Chefs School, we had to ask farmers to grow things because we couldn’t get what we wanted. It was nothing but … iceberg lettuce.”

Now, the Woolfs draw on a roster of local providers: Perth Pork Pro­ ducts, Blanbrook Bison Farm for burgers and meatloaf, Everspring The bar at Little Red’s — casual, comfortable, and continuing the in-house and local ethic

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Springs to the north, Duggan’s and Cheshire Valley from Toronto, and Broadhead and Beau’s from points east. Mary’s wine selections are based on recommendations from long-time friend and Stratford colleague Billy Munnelly. And then there’s a broad range of single malt Irish and Scotch whiskies, bourbons, and micro-distillery Ontario gins and vodkas. “It’s amazing what you can find now,” she says.

Never on a Sunday

Chris and Mary Woolf in Little Red’s Pub & Eatery.

The image behind them is by illustrator Scott McKowan.

Photo by David Hicks.

Farms for duck, Ann Slater’s veggies, Stewart Arkett Honey, Sheldon Berries in nearby Lakeside, Terry’s Global Wide Fish and Odessa Poissonnier (sustainable sea foods only, Chris points out), Festival City Dairy, St. Marys’ C’est Bon goat’s cheese of course, and Shepherd Gourmet Dairy for “amazing” feta, ricotta and Greek yogurt.

That in-house and local philosophy carries over to the bar. “We make our own cocktail rim mixes and celery salt, and look for artisan bitters. The eight taps focus on craft and microbrews that change monthly,” says Chris. “We’ve supported craft brewers since the 1980s, when it meant driving two hours to pick it up ourselves.”

Chris favours small breweries like Stratford’s new Black Swan, Neustadt

Local Food & Artisans

hydeparkmarket.ca Sat 9-4 & Sun 10-4 1331 Hyde Park Rd

Overall, the Woolfs are applying their longstanding values to a simpler, more down-to-earth approach. “Probably the most important change was the emphasis on building a year-round business and being less geared to seasonal tourism. And that means serving local diners, and living more like the locals. After our break, we wanted to make sure we still ‘had a life’,” says Mary.

“That’s why we’re open just five days a week and closed on Sundays,” Chris adds.

“In fact, we actually shut for a week’s vacation last summer. In our first season.

No one does that! But boy, did the staff ever appreciate it.”

Because it leaves more time for fishing?

Chris just smiles.

Little Red’s Pub & Eatery 159 Queen Street East, St. Marys 226-661-2233 www.littlereds.ca hours of operation tuesday–saturday: 11am–2pm, 5pm–9pm sunday–monday: closed DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer and branding consultant with a life.

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Visit our Information Centre at Queen Street & James Street N in the historic railway station. t. 519.284.3500 | toll free 1.800.769.7668 e. tourism@town.stmarys.com

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restaurants

A New Twist at Covent Garden Market Olive R. Twists Food & Beverage House

By BRYAN LAVERY

E

stablished in 1845, the Covent Garden Market remains the longest surviving connection to London’s culinary roots. A driving force in local economic development in downtown London, the Covent Garden Market endures as an important focus for the urban and regional rural exchange where local, farm-fresh quality, artisanal and specialty goods can be purchased seven days of the week.

Located at the intersection of King and Talbot Streets, the Market is a much-loved cultural attraction and culinary destination for both locals and out-of-town guests. It is one of the city’s most valued landmarks, and is the backbone of the downtown buy-local food movement. The Covent Garden Market offers some of the city’s best mash-up of local, specialty and culturally diverse food vendors and a range of community-driven initiatives and programming.

Last September Chris Doris, co-owner of Doris Family Produce in the market, and chef/restaurateur Greg Efstatheu, who operates Dino’s Grillhouse and Beverage Co. in Ingersoll and Dino’s Grill in

Dorchester, renovated and refurbished the restaurant situated in the southwest corner of Covent Garden and opened Olive R. Twists. Long-time corporate hospitality professional and general manager Siva Markandu was hired to oversee the day-to-day operations and is dedicated to ensuring that guests of the restaurant receive the best experience possible.

This location has one of the city’s premiere patios, and was initially operated as Chauncey Smith’s by London restaurateur Mike Chris Doris Smith in 1999 — when the new Market initially reopened. Chauncey’s embraced a Chicago chop–house aesthetic and paid homage to Smith’s grandfather (an original market vendor). Chauncey’s specialized in excellent steaks, seafood and top-notch cocktails.

The next incarnation was Gambrinus Bistro, briefly renowned as one of London’s local craft beer hubs during publican Milos Kral’s tenure as general manager. Incidentally, Kral is now owner of the highly successful Milo’s Craft Beer Emporium just north of the Market on Talbot Street at Carling. Gambrinus was followed by Upfront at the Market, which was a

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very successful venture originally located in Strathroy, and the new location at the Market might have been challenged by an identity crisis — perhaps not upscale enough for serious diners but too formal for the casual-food crowd.

There were several high-profile restaurateurs interested in the premises when it became vacant last year. It’s my understanding that Covent Garden Market policy permits only non-corporate businesses to locate in the Market. So it seemed like a natural fit when longtime Market vendor Doris partnered with Efstatheu to open Olive R. Twists.

Doris is a familiar and friendly face in the downtown core and he and his parents, Louis and Demi, are the well-liked and respected owneroperators of Doris Family Produce. The Doris family have been building long-term relationships with their market customers since 1979. The gregarious Chris Doris has an innate understanding of the marketplace. He has been supplying chefs with specialty items for years — he’s the one who can help you find hard-to-get in season produce, when special ingredients are the order of the day. Doris is also known for developing his For the Love of Garlic product, a garlic-infused olive oil, among other specialty products. His current olive oil is

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Server Mackenzie Nutt at the outdoor bar on Olive R. Twists large patio called 21, named after the year his grandfather planted his first olive tree.

The 75-foot-long bar inside Olive R. Twists uses what Doris refers to as “state of the art tap technology.”

He tells us “it is the first of its kind in Canada to serve 16 craft and draft beers, cocktails, and a list of classic

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

flowering planters and, at street-level, oversized flower pots. This a relaxing place to lounge and one of the best vantage points for people watching in the city.

Olive R. Twists’ close vicinity to the Budweiser Gardens makes it a popular choice on event Olive R. Twists offers a classic list of cocktails nights, both before and casual bar and grill options, with some and after — as is Mark robust twists such as a Crispy Thai Salad (above) Kitching’s Waldo’s on and Charbroiled Beef Burger with beer-battered King, its symbiotic but

onion rings (below) uniquely individual counterpart next door. Olive R. Twists is targeted at a mid-market, including the hometown clientele and visitors that attend sports and entertainment events at Budweiser Gardens. As a concept, and a composition of tastes, the menu exemplifies the contemporary offerings of the fast-paced bar and grill tradition. Menus follow a theme of casual fare such as burgers, fish and chips (served in a novelty French-fry basket), chicken wings, pasta, poutine, stir-fries with an Asian-inspired twist and a lengthy and popular martinis.” There’s also list of appetizers. Dishes are robust, even among the a lounge area with a fireplace and appetizers, which make classic bar snacks. I recently numerous flickering television sets had a homemade beef burger festooned with an that are commonplace nowadays, to olive and a pickle and greens in a soft brioche bun, score the loyalty of die-hard sports accompanied by a mountain of beer battered onion enthusiasts. The bar flows into a casual rings. To the chef’s credit, a commendable trio of and comfortable (tables are wellField Gate Organic sourced chicken, beef and pork spaced with lots of legroom) spacious sliders served with caramelized onions and chipotle dining room. The dining room is mayonnaise is a hands-down winner. appointed with earth-tone brick walls, There are a number of appealing dishes on dark stained wood surfaces, cove offer, plenty of goodwill and enthusiastic staff with ceilings, natural sunlight in the day lots of vitality to help implement, develop and and contemporary LED lighting and execute strategies that continually re-evaluate an over-sized TV. Off to the side of the service, food quality, and special event night dining room is a small open kitchen performances. There remains a lot of community where the majority of the cooking optimism that Olive R. Twists is well placed to takes place while the prep is done in build on the strength of its premier location at the the downstairs kitchen.

Covent Garden Market for many years ahead.

A spacious outdoor patio/bar with Olive R. Twists awning wraps around the restaurant 130 King Street (Covent Garden Market) and overlooks London’s King Street 519-204-9184 restaurant row and the Market Square. www.olivertwists.ca In warmer weather, the 158-squaremetre patio is outfitted with couches, monday–thursday: 11am–12 midnight a dining area and an outdoor bar and friday–saturday: 11am–2am barbecue. As a well-liked seasonal sunday: 12 noon–11 pm destination for al fresco dining or cocktails, this smartly appointed patio, with its classic wrought iron fence, BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large is landscaped with seasonal foliage, and Contributing Editor.

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farmers & artisans

The Hops Crop Once common, hops are experiencing an Ontario resurgence

By KYM WOLFE

N

o one knows for sure when hops were first used in beer, but they were introduced for a very practical reason: hops are natural preservatives. When the British Empire was colonizing much of the world, wherever it sent its soldiers, beer seemed to follow.

Rumour has it that India Pale Ale was created specifically for troops stationed in India — regular pale ale was hopped up to keep it from spoiling during the months-long voyage from Britain. Hops also affect the taste, aroma and bitterness of beer, and today are one of the four key ingredients used in brewing (along with water, yeast and grain).

But hops come in handy for more than just beer. According to the British Hop Association, “The modern hop has been developed from a wild plant as ancient as history itself. As far back as the first century A.D. they were described as a salad plant and are believed to originate from Egypt.” Today they can be found in soaps and candies, and due to their qualities as a sedative are used in herbal teas and sachets as sleep aids.

Hops arrived in Canada in the mid1600s, and were a common crop across Southwestern Ontario up to the early 1900s.

A delegation from Britain, on a fact finding tour of Canada in 1879, noted the presence

A vintage image of the once-common hop crop of hops fields several times in its “Reports of Tenant Farmers’ Delegates on the Dominion of Canada as a Field for Settlement.” When the delegates stopped in London they reported: “Visited Mr. Carling’s, M.P., extensive breweries … The barley and hops are grown in the neighbourhood.”

“There were hop fields in most cities, mainly because there was so much brewing going on, but with rail transportation crops could be brought in from further afield, and a lot of hop fields were converted to tobacco,” says Paul Coriveau from Railway City Brewing Company. Prohibition, then later the establishment of large breweries that wiped out most small independent brewers, and the growing demand for tobacco, all contributed to the decline in Ontario hop crops, which all but disappeared from the rural landscape in the early 1900s.

Hop vines growing on the back deck of London Brewing Co-op member Marcus Rosen’s home

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In recent years a resurgence in craft brewing has brought hops back into favour as a crop. Small scale brewers have a thirst for locally grown ingredients, and in response many farmers have reintroduced hops to their fields. Railroad City uses 10 to 12 different varieties of hops in its beers, some grown in Elgin County, and Coriveau says the brewery does try to use as many locally grown hops as possible.

The owners of the London Brewing Co-op have been growing and experimenting with different kinds of hops in their homemade beers since 2007. “We’ve been growing hops in our backyard gardens right here in the city,” says David Thuss. “Hops play a dramatic role in the taste of a beer.” With the transition from home brewing to a commercial venture (the beer brewing cooperative produced its first keg in September 2014) the company has had to purchase to augment its supply of hops. Like other local craft brewers, it tries to source them close to home.

That can be challenging because brewers need to be sure they can get consistent quality and reliable quantities at a feasible price point. Our climate is not kind to some varieties of hops, and some farmers are still experimenting to see which types will thrive and give the best yield.

Down the highway in Norfolk County, husband and wife team Tim Wilson and Melanie Doerkson are in their fifth growing season at the Carolinian Hop Yard and just starting to see some of their hop plants hit their stride. Like other growers, the Carolinian Hop Yard started small, and less than four acres of the farm is currently planted with hops.

Doerkson sat on the board of the Ontario Hops Growers Association for three years, recently stepping down but still involved as a member of the OHGA. There are now 34 growers across the province, with about 60 acres of hops — tiny when compared to other cash crops, but increasing steadily as existing growers expand their acreage and new growers hop into the market.

Aaron Lawrence of the London Brewing Co-op

It’s a big gamble and an expensive undertaking to get hops into the field, says Doerkson. She notes the impact of blight, pests, moulds and mildew, and the need to experiment with varietals. “Craft brewers are looking to purchase specific varietals, but not all can be established here. It depends on the needed heat, humidity, and growing season.”

Doerkson and Wilson have experienced enough success that they plan to have 15 acres of hops next year, which can only be good news for local brew masters and the hop heads who are driving the trend.

A mere decade ago you would have been hard pressed to find a hoppy brew at the beer store, or a crop of hops in any local fields. The extra kick in many craft beers started the trend to use more and different combinations of hops, and now it seems every brewer, large or small, is on their own pursuit of hoppy-ness!

KYM WOLFE enjoys hopping into history and occasionally indulging in a well crafted beer. You can find her at www. kymwolfe.com

Melanie Doerkson and Tim Wilson with some of the Carolinan Hop Yard harvest

H NC U BR pm AYm−2 D a N 1 SU 1

PATIO Now Open!

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am

Every Thursday from 11am – 1pm Join our Market Chef and enjoy a fresh and tasty sample of a dish featuring local products that are available at our market!

Ask some questions — Chef can give you tips on the preparation of the dish. Pick up a recipe while you are here too!

Every Saturday from 10am – 1pm

Join our Market Chef and enjoy fresh samples of food from our market vendors! Think pierogis, chicken sliders, salads, dips, spreads, chocolates, tea, coffee, and more! If you love to eat good food, be sure to meet us outside on the Market Square each Saturday morning!

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road trips

SPONSORED BY

Destination: West Street, Goderich

The Town, The Beach & The Boardwalk

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

I

t’s been nearly four years since an F3 tornado hit Goderich, sweeping up from Lake Huron, killing a worker at the Sifto salt mine, leaving a swatch of destruction along West Street and through the famous town square before landing finally in Benmiller. Along the way, homes, churches and businesses were damaged or destroyed. Now, heading into another tourism season, Goderich has dusted off and completed an impressive rebuilding.

It’s a nice drive to Goderich, about an hour and a half from London, north up Highway 4 to Hensall, where we stop at Metzger Meats for some smoked sausage, prize-winning bacon and 28-day aged beef, for the coming BBQ season. Then on to Goderich, following Highway 21 along the lake from Bayfield. Pulling into Goderich town square, the sight of the rebuilds is astonishing. New buildings made to replicate their historic neighbours fill the huge holes left by the tornado. Good-sized trees and a creative band-shell fill the

courthouse park. Shops such as Culinary Poet and Shanahan’s Meats remain vibrant.

Our destination is West Street, a spoke off the square (actually an octagon), to check in on Culbert’s Bakery, West Street Willy’s Eatery, The Park House Restaurant, and finally, down to the lake for a sneak peek at Beach Street Station restaurant taking shape inside the old CP railway station.

Darin Culbert maintains the family history of baking at Goderich’s oldest and most famous bakery, which dates back to 1877. When the tornado took out part of the bakery, Darin had to replace a hundredyear-old oven (which couldn’t pass new codes) before he could re-open. Spurred on by huge public support on social media, Darin rebuilt through many struggles and today you need to get there early before the famous crème puffs, honey-dipped donuts, fruit pies and cookies sell out. We don’t dare come home without a box.

Calories of another kind await across the street from Culbert’s at West Street Willy’s.

The view of the Goderich waterfront, from The Beach Street Station.

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The diner is housed on the main floor of a historic brick building owned by the Cornish family. They decided to restore the hurricane-damaged building instead of tearing it down, which led to a long but successful campaign to maintain the look and feel of West Street. Pete and Pauline Wick closed the restaurant for 10 months — normally a death sentence in the food business. However, the Wicks came back strong with their fresh take on hearty diner food — landing a spot on the TV show You Gotta Eat Here in February 2014. Pauline’s perogies are outstanding, served with red cabbage and piled high with fried onions.

Even this Ukrainian-raised perogy expert gives them the two-thumbs-up. The Wicks are famous for breakfast — including the Morning After Poutine (home fries, bacon, sausage, peameal, onions, tomatoes, cheese curds topped with over easy eggs). This huge meal is enough for two people! Or, you may prefer Red Velvet pancakes, or Ella Bella waffles served with Robinson’s Maple Syrup, or peanut butter French toast. Fully licenced, West Street Willy’s stays open until about 9pm, when the Wicks go home to their three kids.

At the end of West Street is the long­ standing Park House Restaurant, one of Huron County’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 1830’s. Perched on top of a hill overlooking Goderich Harbour and adjacent to a park, this is a favourite place to view the water year-round while enjoying cold drinks, perch, pickerel and pub favourites.

The ever-hospitable Herb Marshall greets everyone and runs an efficient restaurant and patio with live music.

Herb takes us down the street to his pet project: the restoration of the 1908 CP Station House (from the former Guelph-Goderich railway line) into a beach front “premium casual” restaurant. It’s been four years and twomillion dollars in the making, with a projected full opening this fall. However, Herb is anxious and excited to open the patio by June for summer visitors. The Beach Street Station will seat 100 on the patio, 75 on a wraparound deck, 35 inside at one

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Pauline Wick’s perogies, at West Street Willy’s end for coffee, breakfast and baked goods, and another 100 in a sunroom and stationmaster’s office for private dining. As well, a full basement will be used for meetings and receptions. The spectacular 30-foot ceilings with crown mouldings, medallions and chandeliers compliment the heritage colours inside. The kitchen is constructed for a 60foot grill. “Pretty well everything has been preserved,” says Herb proudly. He painstakingly moved the 400-tonne building 300 yards, to be closer to the water.

“It looked a little lost back there,” says Herb with a chuckle, as he points to the back end of the lot.

“Here, it is a happy building with full light all day long,” he says.

All of Goderich is anticipating

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the unveiling. Further plans include a beach front hotel and conference centre.

There are some ac­ commodations options in Goderich but for an authentic West Street experience go one block north to the Col­ borne Bed & Breakfast, owned and operated

by Suzanne and John Anderson. A perfect combination of modern rooms with private baths is situated inside a Victorian era manor. The former manse of the Presbyterian church has three stories with four suites, a guest parlor and breakfast room, en­ closed front porch and lovely English gardens.

Suzanne serves a full breakfast including local­ ly supplied produce from the Goderich market in season, Metzger’s bacon and yummy home­ made baked goods. She has rightly earned an award of excellence from TripAdvisor and Bookings.com There is so much more to explore in Goderich beyond West Street including the fabulous Thyme on 21 fine dining restaurant, Samuels Hotel in nearby Saltford and the Benmiller Inn about 20 minutes away. Just remember to make time for a stroll along the boardwalk before heading back in the car.

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular culinary travel writer for eatdrink. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, King’s University College, London.

BRUCE FYFE contributes photographs on culinary travels. He is also Librarian, Weldon Library, Western University, London.

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Goderich’s circa 1908 CP Station House

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in the garden

Herb Appeal Spice It Up — Year Around

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

H

erbs are flavour-packed and nutrition-packed ingredients.

They are mostly easy to grow, many are perennial plants in our climate and the variety is much greater than you may be aware.

Herbs not only add spice, flavour and freshness to meals, but can also protect you against diseases, clear toxins from your body and provide you with vitamins and minerals. They’re great for the health of your garden too, as blooming herb plants attract beneficial insects and pollinators like butterflies and honeybees. Herb plants are seldom bothered by disease or pests and yield abundant harvests all season, if you tend to their basic need for good fertile soil and adequate moisture. They are also easy to grow in containers, which allows you sunny location options and easy access to your kitchen. The closer to your food prep the more you will enjoy the luxury of picking freshness at your whim.

There is nothing like having an abun­ dance of herbs to allow more creativity in your cooking. There is almost no dish that would not benefit from a dash of herbs.

From eggs at breakfast to sandwiches and salads at lunch, to dinner at night, fresh herbs can enhance the flavours and healthgiving properties of most foods. Cooking with herbs is also a good way to cut down on fats and salt, without sacrificing taste.

Classic favourites are parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. But consider other varieties that are available. Some herbs that we have grown and enjoyed are basil, chives, cilantro, dill, oregano, perilla aka shiso, sorrel and bronze fennel.

Our experience with oregano has been very rewarding. Put in as a temporary measure at first, in a very poor soil, the plant has now filled in beautifully and provides a healthy, low-growing, edible

Wild Arugula

Shison (Perilla)

Sage

Basil

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ground cover. When the flowers appear in late summer they offer a soft purple hue en masse, and the bees love them.

As with most herbs, oregano leaves taste best when picked before the plant flowers.

Harvest for your needs, and then enjoy the lovely spray of late season flowers.

One of the first perennial herbs to come up in the spring is sorrel. It is a gourmet ingredient offering a tangy citrus flavour.

The leafy greens are delicious in soups and stews, in salad, as a braising green, and are a great addition to smoothies for a tart lemony taste. This is a cold-hardy herb that permits an early planting. You will have baby leaves in only 45 days. The following year it will be the first thing popping up long before you can plant any tender herbs outside.

A really pleasant surprise last year was growing shiso (perilla). The flavour profile was unlike anything we’d ever experienced. With soft floral notes, a few leaves torn into a salad or blended into a dressing lifted the other flavours beautifully. The plant is very attractive, covered with luscious curly leaves with serrated edges. It is similar to a coleus in its character and size. If left to flower it will self-seed and provide you with free plants in the future.

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Flat Leaf (Italian) Parsley

Summer Savoury

Drying Herbs for Year-round Use:

Enjoy your home-grown herbs year-round, fresh in season and dried in winter. Drying herbs is easy to do and an enjoyable process — visually and aromatically.

Loosely tie small bunches of herbs and hang upside down in a warm, dark location for approximately 10 days. Before the leaves are crisp(!) remove from the stems and store in glass or plastic to preserve freshness and colour. Store away from light.

Tender culinary herbs also freeze well.

Growing your own herbs offers the option to grow organically and economi­ cally. Whether you start herbs from seed or buy a few started plants, there really is no better way to add flavour and freshness to your culinary creations.

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, and at various gardening events around the region.

Rosemary interplanted with Zinnias

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The BUZZ ... new and notable

T

he Trouble with Bees ... We’ve been hearing about the declining bee population for some time. Using data from field biologists and a new game-changing mathematical model, researchers from Western University have discovered that when a bee colony is threatened by an external force (like pesticides, pests, infections and parasites), forager bees leave the hive at a very young age. This sets off a chain reaction that inherently leads to colony collapse disorder, known in popular science as the death of the honey bees.

In normal conditions, forager bees leave the hive at 14-days old. Forager bees do the important work of gathering food to bring back to the hive and pollinate crops in the process. But in adverse conditions, an unsustainable cycle ensues: the hive pushes out younger and younger bees in a desperate attempt to get more food and save itself. Most of the young bees die and eventually the whole colony collapses.

Betti's mathematical model has resulted in a valuable warning sign. If beekeepers see a lot of young bees flying out of the hive, they can act quickly and test for disease, isolate a particular hive, or cull healthy bees and transfer them to a new hive. The findings by Betti and his collaborators from Western's Department of Applied Mathematics, professor Lindi M. Wahl and professor emeritus Mair Zamir, were published in PLOS ONE.

the restaurant scene. Saddle Up will fill the gap for country music fans. Downtown London wishes them every success!” says Janette MacDonald, CEO & General Manager Downtown London. (The Manuels own and operate the London Music Hall). www.facebook.com/SaddleUpLondon

Downtown London …

There’s a refreshing new dining concept in town: Wich is Wich at 125 King Street. It’s “a proper sandwich shop” according to owners Elaine Sawyer and her son, chef Josh Sawyer. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (later during Budweiser Gardens’ events), it features an open kitchen, seating for 45, and take-out or curbside options. www.wichiswich.ca

Saddle Up Country Bar and Eatery will be celebrating their grand opening week, beginning Friday, May 1st. Situated directly across from Budweiser Gardens, the location will feature a street level patio, a rooftop patio, ample dining area and a comfort food menu. But what will truly set Saddle Up apart will be the entertainment: On Thursday evenings enjoy live acoustic music featuring both local talent and special guests. Bourbon Fridays and Saddle Up Saturdays will present a new fresh atmosphere spinning country tunes along with some pop and rock classics.

“The Manuel family are making a difference in the music scene in London — and now adding a welcome addition to

The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market is now open on Saturdays (8am-1pm) and Thursdays (8am-2pm) This is a 100% producer-based market. A new addition this year is the Weaver Fish Company from Port Stanley. www.coventmarket.com A family-oriented event, Fiesta London encourages individuals from all ethnic backgrounds to come share in the rich history, art, music and cuisine of our Hispanic community. Celebrate with food, art and music. June 14, at Covent Garden Market. www.fiestalondon.ca Toboggan Brewing Company is the brainchild of long-time London restaurateur Mike Smith, owner of the venerable Joe Kool’s and Fellini Koolini’s. Smith has installed a state of the art brewery in the basement of his former Jim Bob Ray’s bar, enlisted the help of experienced brewing masters, and launched a line of craft beers to serve the local market. The 519 Kitchen will emphasize local ingredients and Neapolitan pizzas cooked in the large stone wood oven, brought over from Smith’s former P Za Pie restaurant from down the street. www.tobogganbrewingcompany.com

The Rhino Lounge Bakery and Coffee Shoppe is celebrating its first anniversary. It opened last year in a renovated and enlarged space formerly occupied by the museum gift shop. The Rhino Lounge seats 40 and features made-from-scratch croissants, bagels, doughnuts (cronuts on Thursdays) and other baked goods and savouries prepared

Stunning Views Excellent Food Ambiance Galore

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CAFÉ OPEN TUES to FRI, 11–4 SUN Brunch, 11–4

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

by pastry chef Michelle Lenhardt. The Rhino serves a wide range of coffee and teas, wines and local craft beers as well as sandwiches, tacos, salads, shakes and smoothies. www.rhinolounge.ca

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

Around London …

The London Beer & BBQ Show is back June 19–21 at the Western Fair Agriplex. Sample over 50 beers from Ontario’s established culture of craft beers, savour sumptuous barbecue by local grillers and restaurants — everything from pork ribs and pulled pork to brisket and chicken. Participate in a variety of sports, cooking demos and activities running throughout the weekend. www.londonbeerandbbqshow.com The Soho Street Market (located in front of the Goodwill Centre at Horton and Wellington) provides an open-air market experience. It’s operated by the Soho Community Association for the purpose of providing local produce, farm fresh fruits, and artisanal handcrafts to visitors and residents. Every Friday night from 4-9 pm. www.sohomarket.ca Hyde Park Outdoor Market opens May 9. Visit some new vendors, as well as regulars and pull out a lawn chair and watch The Soots perform for some “foot stompin’ fun”! (1–3pm). SAT 9 am–4 pm, SUN 10 am–4 pm. www.hydeparkmarket.ca

• FAMILY FRIENDLY • Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering Reservations •Recommended ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

LUNCH Tuesday–Friday 11am–1pm by reservation DINNER Tuesday–Sunday 5–10pm • Closed Monday

Masonville Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market features over 40 farmers, artisans and food producers. It is organized by the Western Fair Farmers & Artisans’ Market. There is plenty of free parking at the Masonville Place parking lot. Fridays 8 am–2 pm, weather permitting. www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca

A Taste of Europe since 1974

Gino Parco’s Porcino has a new location in Byron at the corner of Southdale and Boler Roads. The 35-seat restaurant will feature an open kitchen and an industrial urban interior with some of Gino’s own art collection. The menu offers much more than pizza and includes such favourites at wild mushroom truffle ravioli and arancini balls. www.porcino.ca

MAY 17!

PATIO OPENS

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

London Ice Cream Company is kicking off the season with a strong line up of new flavours. Highlights are Speculous, Sriracha, Nutella and non-fat Greek frozen yogurt including new flavours, Baklava and Lemon/Basil. London Ice Cream pays tribute to its late founder Alan Sargent, who recently passed away, with a new flavour named Sargent Pepper. www.londonicecream.ca The annual Victoria Day Picnic at Eldon House will be held on May 18. Meet royal guest Queen Victoria at Eldon House and enjoy Victorian games, lemonade and cookies on Eldon House grounds and gardens. Events will be held indoors in the Interpretive Centre if weather is inclement. www.eldonhouse.ca Plans for restaurant and patio renovations are underway at The Windermere Manor. Restaurant manager Colleen Murree has a long history of bar and service management, and comes to the Windermere from Fanshawe College, where she taught courses from service standards to mixology. Windermere is offering a mid-week getaway which includes room, restaurant and spa discount for $139. www.windermeremanor.com

Murder Mystery May 29 & June 19

• Private Rooms • Free Room Rental • Wi-Fi • Murder Mysteries 122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens) Open Daily for Dinner 519-679-9940 Lunch Monday–Saturday www.marienbad.ca

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The London Training Centre has launched The Larder, an online food store. Items are offered weekly, and might include croissants, Montreal style bagels, specialty breads, and chicken and veal soup stocks, all prepared by Culinary Program preapprenticeship students under the guidance of Chef Instructors Steve James and John Fisher. larder@londontraining.on.ca The Grickle Grass Festival is a celebration of healthy and sustainable living, presented by the London Regional Children’s Museum and Growing Chefs Ontario. During the day, the festival will offer family programming in the form of community-oriented fun with a focus on sustainability and healthy choices. In the evening, the museum will turn into a

Your love of all things Italian begins at

fully licensed music venue with over ten music acts from across the country. In addition, art installations from local artists can be explored around the museum. May 30. www.gricklegrass.ca/ The London Beer and BBQ Show is back (June 19-21), showcasing fine craft breweries from across southwestern Ontario and offering outstanding BBQ prepared by a variety of grill masters from local and area restaurants.

The International Food Festival (June 26-28) is a London tradition now in its 8th year. Held in Victoria Park, the event features over 40 food vendors, a beer garden with live entertainment, and vendors and exhibits throughout the park.

There is also an amusement ride area, $20 all you can ride (parent rides free).www.CanadasBiggestParty.com Dave Cook, owner of Fire Roasted Coffee Co. and operator of the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, recently purchased the former Merv’s Variety premises at the corner of Dundas and Ontario Streets. Cook is renovating the property, and will be opening another Fire Roasted Coffee Café and microbrewery in the space. www.fireroastedcoffee.com

Stratford …

There are a lot of exciting changes in Stratford’s restaurant world as new owners and chefs take the lead: Chef Tim Larsen, Jessie Larsen and Chef Sean Collins have left Mercer Hall to build a new community- shared restaurant on Wellington Street, called the The Red Rabbit.

Collins will be the leading the kitchen at the worker-owned venture. That team is comprised of sous chef Jon Naiman and a core group of other kitchen and front-of-house staff. The restaurant will have a thoughtful focus on local ingredients from area farmers, local producers, local brewers and distillers. www.redrabbitresto.com Rob and Candice Wigan of Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub have purchased the iconic The Church Restaurant. The former Baptist church turned fine dining establishment will re-launch late May as Revival House. Chefs Kyle Rose (late of London’s former Auberge du Petit Prince) and Byron Hallett will operate the kitchen, emphasizing local, seasonal ingredients on the daily menu. www.revival.house

“Pure Chinese” Cuisine —eatdrink

Five Fortune Culture RESTAURANT

366 Richmond Street at King www.fivefortuneculture.com

226 667 9873

Open WED to SUN 11am to 10:30pm

№ 53 | May/June 2015

Chefs Aaron and Bronwyn Linley have sold Bijou after 14 years and handed over the reins to Mark and Linda Simone in March. Bijou will have a new entrance off Wellington Street, a new bar in the front area and is expected to have extended hours and operate for 10 months of the year. New Chef Max Holbrook, formerly executive chef at The Parlour and Foster’s Inn, will also add a tapas bar menu of small plates. www.bijourestaurant.com New chef at The Bruce Hotel is Arron Carley, who was sous chef at Oliver & Bonacini’s Canoe in Toronto. The Bruce also has a new food and beverage manager, Kevin Wallace, arriving from Harvest Kitchen in Toronto. www.thebruce.ca Pazzo shut the Bambino down permanently in January to refocus on Pazzo’s Taverna and the Pizzeria. Steve Doyle, formerly of The Bruce and Bijou, has joined Pazzo as the Taverna manager and is heading up some changes to the cocktail and wine programs. Yva Santini remains head chef in the Taverna and Will Gaynor is still the Pizzeria head chef. www.pazzo.ca After 22 years, Susan Dunfield has sold Down the Street, which will re-open year-round under new ownership partners Jacqueline Hayton and Cassandre Frost. They are excited to unveil the restaurant’s refurbishments and Chef Lee Avigdor’s new menus. Alondra Gálvez is the new manager, Greg Hims the sous chef, and Ulises Sanchez the bar chef. www.downthestreet.ca Bill and Shelley Windsor, who also own The Prune, are buying Mercer Hall. Chef Ryan O’Donnell will be overseeing both restaurants. The Prune will open their doors for the season on Friday, May 15. www.theprune.com​

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To Bean or Not to Bean coffee roasters is a worker co-op in Stratford. Beans are sourced from other co-operatives. Stop by the Lorne Avenue location weekdays or the Saturday Farmers Market and Sunday Slow Food Market for a taste and to purchase freshly roasted beans. www.tobeanornottobean.coop .

Stratford Blues and Rib Fest (June 19-21) is a weekend of delicious BBQ and music. Activities include two outdoor stages of live music, three indoor ticketed evening performances, slow-cooked BBQ ribs and other food offerings, artisan and craft merchants, musicians workshop tent, vintage motorcycle display, vintage tractor display, Classic Car Meet and Park on

LONDON’S

PREMIER

PATIO N E P O W NO

Hog Wild Week in Stratford! Come celebrate pork in Stratford June 17-21, from the Bacon & Ale Trail, tasting delicious pork and beer-inspired treats, to visiting selected restaurants and pubs who are creating special menus, pork events and tastings devoted to pork ... and bacon, too. And the Ontario Pork Congress will be held June 17-18. www.visitstratford.ca/pork Perth County Slow Food Market takes it outdoors for the summer. Listen to the music while you shop for fresh made bread, quiche, tarts and sweet treats, locally grown meats, veggies and cheese in Stratford’s Market Square. Sundays 10 am–2 pm

130 King Street at Covent Garden Market Square 519-24-9184 • www.olivertwists.ca

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Sunday and a kids play area, all in the parks on the banks of the scenic Avon River. www.stratfordbluesandribfest.ca Following on the heels of last fall’s opening of Black Swan Brewing comes Stratford’s own micro-distillery, Junction 56 Distillery. Owner Michael Heisz began his first batch in April, and aims to bottle in June. “I’m starting with vodkas, then vapourinfused gins, and then whiskeys,” says Heisz. “We’ll be doing a lot of experimenting along the way.” www.junction56.ca/ Stratford Summer Music’s 15th season presents food and music pairings ranging from refined to rambunctious: Saturdays and Sundays (July 26 - August 30) The Prune presents solo Tafelmusik violinists over brunch in the back garden room. Revival House, formerly The Church, presents the annual cabaret series, with renowned opera singer Rebecca Caine (July 25), the one and only Carole Pope (Aug 8), a Newfoundland Jazz Ceilidh (Aug 22), and former Nylon, Micah Barnes & friends (Aug 29). Revival House also presents a “guerrilla-style” opera and culinary performance of Mozart’s The Magic Flute, in English, featuring five young Canadian singers directed by Peter Tiefenbach. Aug 14 and 15 at 6:30 pm, August 16 at noon. stratfordsummermusic.ca Dianne Krampien at Distinctly Tea in Stratford has once again teamed up with the Stratford Public Library and the Ontario Library Association to create a second Evergreen Tea blend for the Evergreen Reading Program, which is designed to cultivate a love of reading for people of all ages. Evergreen OWL Blend (Orange with Lime) is a delicious caffeine-free, Rooibos-based blend, suitable for nighttime reading, and for kids. It’s also great as an iced tea. Available at Distinctly Tea, in person or online, with 30% of sales going to the Library. www.distinctlyteastratford.ca

Regional ...

Congratulations to Rick and Deb Hunter, who are celebrating a tenth anniversay with The King Edward Restaurant & Pub in Ilderton. As Rich recalls, “We took ownership of The Eddy May 20th and opened the doors June 1st after a very frantic renovation.

As well as becoming ‘the village pub,’ we quickly gained a reputation as a destination restaurant. We reintroduced real-ale to the London area in 2006 and shortly thereafter switched our draught beers to all-Ontario craft breweries to augment our British

Isles pours. The century building reminds many of the ‘back-home’ pub experience and the food choices coupled with the beer selection has made The Eddy what it is today. Most of our regulars simply call it ‘The Pub’! “ www.thekingedward.com The Lambton Film & Food Festival (May 22-24) brings together a collection of films and food from local restaurants and producers, at one of the world’s oldest operating movie theatres. www.LambtonFilmAndFood.com Newly opened on the shores of Bayfield, The Ashwood offers a world class Bourbon Bar and Restaurant, quality accommodations and one of the best live music venue destinations in Southwest Ontario. Chef Robert Whyte offers an ever-changing, farm-to-table menu complemented by premium beverages and sophisticated cocktails. www.theashwood.com In Tecumseh, The Art of Eating Food & Wine Festival (June 19-20) offers a great way to experience Essex County wines!

The festival boasts over 24 various local wine and beer vendors, paired with food from restaurants in the Town of Tecumseh and throughout Essex County. www.artofeatingtecumseh.com Visit Ingersoll for Canterbury Folk Festival (July 11-13) for great music, local food, and Ontario wine and beer. Start the festival off on Friday night with the pig roast, featuring local pork from DeBruyn’s Farm. www.canterburyfolkfestival.on.ca FINE a Restaurant, in Grand Bend, is celebrating its 10th year in 2015. If you haven’t been yet, plan a visit this summer. But perhaps you should make a reservation — it’s popular with locals as well as visitors, and deservedly so. www.finearestaurant.com Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro in Bayfield is also celebrating its 10th anniversary. In June, Ted is going to offer a bourbon tasting night, with samples from their extensive list. There’s a big party planned for the Labour Day Weekend, for customers and all staff (past and present).www.blackdogbistro.ca Hessenland Inn, on the Lake Huron shore between Grand Bend and Bayfield, has begun planting a micro-vineyard, a three-year process that, if all goes according to plan, will lead to the first glass of Hessenland’s own wine being poured in 2018. Their plantings will include Riesling, Chardonay, Cabernet Franc, Frontenac Gris, Marquette and Siegerrebe (aka Victory Vine). A tasting room and new programs and packages will enhance the Inn’s already stellar

London’s Celebration Destination

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Lunch Weekdays Dinner 7 Nights a Week

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2015 MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES

Continental cuisine – with a contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. Baby Grand Pianist • Free On-Site Parking From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com Michael’s makes your celebration an event. for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info

№ 53 | May/June 2015

reputation as a restaurant of note and a popular wedding and celebration venue. Owner/Chef Frank Ihrig and family are also excited to relaunch their summer Mongolian Grill nights, every Thursday beginning June 25. www.hessenland.com Last year, The Little Inn of Bayfield changed ownership. Mike and Joanne Oliver have carefully renovated and refurbished the circa 1832 heritage property and launched two new dining concepts, The Willow Room and the Four In Hand Taproom.

Renowned Ontario Chef Michael Potters has designed the ideal chef’s kitchen in as part of the collective determination to make the Inn a culinary destination. Diners will experience Bayfield and Huron County through its food, and there are plans for small group cooking classes, food foraging programs and a viewing area from the patio. Wine, spirits and cocktails have been curated by master sommelier John Szabo. The inn has been Four Diamond CAA rated for more than 20 years. www.thelittleinn.com Las Chicas del Café has found a home at the CASO Station in St. Thomas. Maria Fiallos and her sister Valeria are from Nicaragua. They moved to London with their family about 25 years ago, then settled in St. Thomas-Elgin about eight years ago.

Together they opened Las Chicas del Café at 207 Exeter Road in London, where they roast and package coffee for restaurants, and for sale at markets and specialty food stores. Find Las Chicas in the east end of the building in the lower level of the CASO Station, beginning in June. www.laschicasdelcafe.com If you live near Dutton, or you’re driving in the area, stop by Jeff (The Caveman Cook) Ashford’s new “mobile food preparation premises.” Jeff likes to say that the truck was built from scratch ... just like their food. You’ll find a wide variety on the menu, from Lebanese-inspired dishes such as shawarma and falafel, to authentic smoked BBQ on the weekends, and of course, burgers and fries. You can find Take A Bite Food Truck on Facebook.

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Woodstock has a new restaurant you might want to check out.

Oxford Kitchen at 450 Simcoe Street specializes in fresh, creative dishes with local ingredients from Ontario Fresh suppliers. A look at the daily menu photos on the facebook page will have you grabbing the car keys, and heading over. Some evenings feature live musical entertainment. www.oxfordkitchenwoodstock.com Six local wineries from Essex Pelee Island Coast (EPIC) Wine Country brought home an epic 31 medals at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, surpassing their previous best total of 29 set in 2014. With over 3,708 wines entered from 27 countries, including 50 American states and six Canadian provinces, our local wineries have reason to hold their heads high.

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

Craft Beer Tours are offered by the Niagara College Teaching Brewery, Fridays and Saturdays until the end of October. A special weekend of fun (June 19–21) celebrates fathers and craft beer. Take a dad, or a daughter, or a son, and discover something new. www.niagaracollegebeer.ca

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d like people to know about? eatdrink has thousands of readers across Southwestern Ontario. Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca

432 Richmond St. at Carling • London www.davidsbistro.ca www.davidsbistro.ca

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travel

Venice Three Ways

By ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY

J

anuary 2015 was not the best time to visit Venice. Cold winds and lashing freezing rain from the sea can create acqua alta, levels of water high enough for the municipality to erect raised sidewalks across Piazza St. Marco, and to force pedestrians to pull on kneehigh rubber boots. So instead we saved the airfare and signed up for six weeks of classes on the art and architecture of Venice given by an art historian through McIntosh Gallery at Western University.

There were more compensations than dry feet. We started off with several hours of illustrated history. This city, a miracle of gold, crystal and marble, rose out of the mud, sand, and clay in the lagoons off the Adriatic Sea following the barbarian sweep David Lindsay by the Horses of St. Mark, through Northern Italy in the sixth century. overlooking St. Mark’s Square Fishermen, fowlers, and salt-gatherers built wood and wattle huts in the marsh­ lands, then established early trading routes the Byzantine cathedral, we were awed by to become the first merchants of Venice. the undulations in the wavy marble floor.

This immersion course brought memories Venezia was sinking! Eighteen months later of our three previous trips to Venice back Venice suffered the worst flood in its history. to life. The first was in 1965, a two-day stop In November 1966 torrential rains raised the as part of a European bus tour. Our hotel level of the canals by six feet. was on the mainland, in the city of Mestre, On our second visit, April 1969, part of five miles across a causeway from the a trip in a VW van, we returned to camp historical centre of Venice. That evening, near Mestre. On the drive over the same we got our first glimpse of a Venetian night. causeway two skylines were distinguishable.

Small coloured lights shimmered on the On one side, countless iron funnels spewed canals, as black gondolas powered by white and blue striped gondolieri passed our vaporetto (water bus). Crystal chandeliers twinkled from the Gothic arches of stately palazzos.

A gaily-lit wedding flotilla skimmed over the dark waters. Golden mosaics glittered from St. Marco’s arches. Violinists wandered like ghostly troubadours.

The next morning, inside View from the sea of the Bell Tower and St. Mark’s Square

out black smoke. On the other lay the tenthcentury treasures of the Venetian Republic: a stately campanile, several golden Byzantine domes and a sea of red-tiled roofs.

Industrialization is hastening this medieval jewel, in its precarious lagoon setting, into its watery grave. But after your first ride along the Grand Canal on a vaporetto, the magic of Venice dispels even the harshness of our century.

Since we had been living in the van for seven months, it was a relief to spend most of our days in what Napoleon called “The most beautiful livingroom in Europe,” St. Marco’s Piazza.

Two historic cafés, Florian’s and Quadri’s, face each other under the elegant arches of this square. Each has an outdoor orchestra to woo the customers over. Yes, it is costly, but you sit for an hour in a ballroom setting,

with the great votive Church of Santa Maria della Salute across the water and the golden mosaics of the Basilica on your right as waiters bring white china pots of coffee or glasses of Campari Soda on silver trays.

Worth every lire.

Venice is dotted with snug two-person bars, tucked into dead end streets, where working men go for a cichetti, a snack of toasted crostini smeared with baccala, creamed cod, accompanied by a small glass of ombra, white wine at a very small price. The few days we stayed we practically lived by snacking on grilled squid, scampi, octopus and deep fried vegetables in these little bars.

Third time lucky. In 1999 we rented a gracious apartment with a newly-renovated kitchen in the Campo St Paulo, within walking distance of the best market in

Clockwise from top left: The author, enjoying the Piazza St. Marco; Gondolas docked near the Rialto Bridge; The author enjoying a romantic gondola ride; Back from the market, to a home-away-from-home.

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Italy. Others may compete on the basis of a broader choice of product; none can compare with the beauty, theatricality and historical significance of this market under the arcades near the Rialto Bridge.

A chink of light through the heavy draperies woke us at 5:30, the right time to watch the market come to life. The flower seller sets her pail of pink almond blossoms under the Gothic arches beside the still-empty pescheria, while vendors ready the flat tin trays of crushed ice to receive the bounty from the Adriatic.

Barques unload boxes of squid, their black ink holding promise of the ravioli loved by Venetians. Whole tuna glitter like wet slate, swordfish brandish their spikes. Now the fishermen start to arrive at the docks to unload boats berthed two or three deep, handing in relay boxes of red mullets, shimmering silver sardines, placid soles.

Mussels, clams, crabs, and giant prawns are tossed in sacks to porters who bustle them directly to the waiting iced trays. We settled on six scallops nestled on their shells, pink roes attached. The fishmonger told us to wash, grill and serve only with salt. Basta.

In the Erberia, trays of potted rosemary, sage, chives and bay sat in rows under swags of peppers and ropes of garlic. When I exclaimed “Bella!”, I was rewarded with a gift of fresh parsley. Stalls laden with

The Rialto Bridge, completed in 1591

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red radicchio, white asparagus spears and arugula leaves were artfully arranged to resemble the Italian flag. The clever Venetians have contrived to harvest vegetables from the sea by converting islands such as Sant’ Erasmo into market gardens. The brisker the selling, the louder the vendors sang to one another. At the end of the day, as the sun set over our terrace, we opened a chilled Prosecco and savoured large scampi, sautéed in oil and garlic, serenaded by an orchestra of gondolieri who favoured us with blown kisses.

ANN MCCOLL LINDSAY is a London-based writer and an inveterate world traveler, with her painter/photographer husband David Lindsay.

www.eatdrink.ca

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wine

Cuvée Grand Tasting A Celebration of Excellence in Ontario Winemaking

By GARY KILLOPS

W

ineries and winemakers from across Ontario gather at Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort once a year for the annual Cuvée Grand Tasting event, a celebration of excellence in Ontario winemaking now in its 26th year..

This year Brock University has taken over the planning and organizing of Cuvée from the Niagara Community Foundation. “It’s a natural fit for us” said Barb Tatarnic, who is the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute’s (CCOVI) manager of outreach and continuing education at Brock. “CCOVI has had a long-standing tradition with Cuvée so it was an easy transition for us to become the organizing body”.

Cuvée will continue in its existing format as a fundraiser, now supporting student bursaries and research that will benefit the Ontario grape and wine industry. “We are very appreciative of the support from the wine industry to the Foundation for the past 11 years

through Cuvée,” said Liz Palmieri, executive director of Niagara Community Foundation.

“Cuvée has enabled us to grow and sustain the Foundation. Our priority moving forward is to focus our resources on our core business.”

Now as the event evolves, proceeds will go to support the industry it showcases. “This is a terrific development,” said Brian Hutchings, Brock’s Vice-President of Finance and Administration. “It will ultimately support some of the very students and researchers who are crucial to sustaining and growing the industry in the future.”

The Cuvée Grand Tasting has changed focus over the past few years from a competition among winemakers to the story of the wine that the winemakers have selected to bring to the event: one wine, one winemaker and the opportunity to ask the winemaker why they selected the wine that they are showcasing.

Here is what a few of them said:

Steve Byfield (Nyarai Cellars,Niagara) selected the 2011 Cadence ($21.95). This is a blend of cabernet franc (42%), merlot (33%), cabernet sauvignon (20%), and syrah (5%). “The word ‘cadence’ means a sequence of notes or chords comprising the close of a musical phrase. I dedicated this wine to the many musicians with whom I’ve had the pleasure to collaborate.”

Rori McCaw (Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards, Lake Erie North Shore) chose the 2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve ($34.95). “The vintage year was great for cab franc but it’s really the response from tasters who love it as much as I do. It’s also a wonderful example of full potential ripeness in the Lake Erie North Shore region, yet the specific terroir of our estate shines through with great uniqueness. The balance of the wine is superb.”

Andrzej Lipinski (Big Head Wines, Niagara) opted to showcase the 2013 Chenin Blanc ($22). “Chenin blanc is a long-lived and versatile grape. It ripens later than most but the spot from where we source has the protection of the lake to prevent winter damage. We leave it on the vine

Steve Byfield of Nyarai Cellars

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

what we can achieve from our tiny pinot block that is now coming into its own. “

Emma Garner of Thirty Bench Wine Makers fairly late and are rewarded with intense phenolics that take days of breathing to fully awaken. This is the most exciting white in our portfolio.”

Michael Standen, (Colaneri Estate Winery, Niagara) selected the 2012 Insieme ($34.95).

Sommelier Michael Standen, who works retail for the winery, poured Lipinski’s wine. “The word ‘insieme’ in Italian means ‘together.’

This full-bodied wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and syrah done in the traditional appassimento style.”

Martin Janz (Pelee Island Winery, Lake Erie North Shore) picked the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot Vinedresser ($19.95).

Cabernet sauvignon (85%), petit verdot (15%). “2012 was an excellent vintage for us, you can taste the ripe fruit in this wine.”

Martin said it was hard to pick just one wine.

Emma Garner (Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Niagara) selected the 2012 Small Lot Pinot Noir ($35). “Pinot noir has become a genuine focus for us at Thirty Bench. I feel that in 2012 we struck a harmonious balance between power and finesse. The intense tobacco leaf and cherry aromatics and subtle oak accents are seductive and intriguing. This wine is a true testament to

Michael Standen of Colaneri Estate Winery

J-L (Jean-Laurent) Groux (Stratus Vineyards Niagara) decided on the 2012 Stratus White ($44). “In celebration of Stratus’s 10th anniversary, we are pleased to unveil the 10th bottling of our flagship White. Interestingly, it was at Cuvée 2005 that Stratus White made its world debut. This vintage preserves our original principle of assemblage and at the same time expresses a heightened finesse, structure and elegance.”

J-L is from France’s Loire Valley. He learned winemaking in Burgundy and Bordeaux and brings his old world style craft to Niagara’s Stratus Vineyards. An iconic winemaker who conducted several hundred blind tastings to build this blending of each vintage of Stratus White, he explained that

J-L Groux of Stratus Vineyards there is no recipe for assemblage, only a goal.

The 2012 is a blend of chardonnay (43%), sauvignon blanc (42%) and semillon (15%).

Cuvée is an annual celebration of Ontario winemaking. It started out 26 years ago with 18 wineries and one chef at Victoria Park in Niagara Falls. In 2015 the Cuvée Grand Tasting has grown to feature 52 VQA Ontario wineries, 13 chefs who prepared their signature dishes, and over 700 guests.

The Ontario grape and wine industry employs more than 14,000 people and attracts 1.9 million visitors to the province each year.

According to research completed by the Cana­ dian Vintners Association, it is an important driver to the provincial economy and con­ tributes $3.3 billion to the economy annually.

Certainly something to celebrate!

GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

№ 53 | May/June 2015

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BEER MATTERS beer matters

Heed Those Disembodied Voices Mike Smith Launches Toboggan Brewing Co. in London

By THE MALT MONK

M

ike Smith is a man on a mission.

He’s heard the voices — and they have said it’s time to brew.

Having been an avid craft beer fan, and having spent thousands of travel hours to sample fine beers at destination breweries and brew pubs, Mike has decided to let his passion for craft beer and brewing guide him in that endeavour. Mike will be opening London’s first brewed-on-premises craft brew pub soon, possibly by the time industry excellence. But few are aware that this is published. Tentatively christened Mike also knows great crafted beer.

Toboggan Brewing Co., the new breweryMike has assembled a nice pub will occupy the old Jim new 10-hectolitre brew set Bob Ray’s location. Mike for production and a small hopes to integrate fresh one hectolitre pilot brewing crafted beer with eclectic set to run test batches and pub and fest-hall ambience. special one-offs — a wise The brewery will also have a micro brewing strategy store for take-home sales of but not really uncommon. growlers (litre and two litre Where Mike goes beyond jugs of fresh draft). the ordinary is in treating You probably know Mike the city water (filtering out Smith as the successful chlorine, fluoride, iron etc.) restaurateur who has graced then adding mineral salts London with some of its most as needed to approximate popular restaurants, cafés the softer well waters of and pubs. He knows good the world famous brewing food and he knows hospitality Toboggan Brewing Co. growlers, available in one and two litres regions. Not being a brewer himself, he has assembled some of the best brewers in local craft brewing today to collaborate on recipes, style sculpture and brewing processes. Tom Schmidt is the Toboggan head brewmaster and Gord Slater is the brewing operations manager. You might not recognize the names, but the brews they have produced for other regional craft brewing companies are very familiar, and successful.

The state-of-the-art brewery is housed in the basement of the Toboggan Brewing Pub

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

Amber Cream Ale: an American take on

the cream ale style with Amber malt base and Pacific Northwest hops. Poured a hazy deep amber colour with a rocky white cap.

Subtle nose — mostly malty, some light floral tones. Flavour was bright, hoppy and balanced with a nice hop bite in the finish, fairly substantial for a cream ale.

Blonde Ale: light in alcohol only. This

Craft Beer Flights are served on a mini toboggan The business plan looks promising as Mike will be offering not only his house-brewed ales but a wide array of local craft beers as well — a wonderful show of support for the industry as a whole. Toboggan will have a constant rotating tap selection of styles and types, from filtered light ales and lagers (for entry level craft beer drinkers) to unfiltered robust beers (for the seasoned bierophile), from cream ales and Belgian blondes to abbey triples and doppelbocks, and every style in between — plus a constant rotating offering of one-off special brews. Add to this a bierfest-hall atmosphere and upscale pub grub to compliment what is on tap, and I see great potential for this enterprise.

I was recently able to sample some of Mike’s latest brews in the new Toboggan brewery before the doors opened, and I got an exclusive glimpse into what Mike has bubbling away in the fermenters and mellowing in bright tanks. I have to say there are surprises in store for London craft beer foam heads at this new brew op.

Here are my impressions of the finished (conditioned) beers sampled (no trade names for them yet).

one was a delight to drink. Lightly hazed, bright gold colour, one-finger bone white cap that hangs in. Aroma of biscuit malts, herbal hops and that wonderful Belgian yeast funk. Again, well balanced between malt and hops up front but goes dry and hoppy in the finish — a well attenuated brew. Very flavourful and great drinkability as a potential sessioner.

APA: IPA with American Pacific Northwest

hops, Toboggan’s rendition of Pacific North­west IPA. Poured a rich looking amber with orange highlights and a puffy, sticky cap that stacks in the glass. It’s a rich IPA done with Simcoe and Citra hops which give it both a citrus-fruity, piney hop nose and a clean, resonating bitterness.

On the palate, the malt blend is slightly caramel for just a touch of malt sweetness to offset the ample hopping. This IPA is well-balanced but very expressive with hops — Mike says they still want to tweak it, but I think it’s good to go as is. There certainly is nothing left to be desired in this big juicy APA. It’s a drinker.

Mike Smith has put a lot of capital and work into this enterprise. If the quality of these first brews is any indication, he is in for

Oatmeal Stout: this tapped off a turbid

dark mahogany colour with a resilient onefinger tan cap. Aromas of deep roast coffee and porridge, some light grassiness and earthiness. Taste and character were sturdy, chewy, rich and roasty with a long finish which becomes dry and lightly bitter — if I was doing a blind tasting I’d have thought I was drinking St. Ambroise oatmeal stout.

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

another success story. I can recommend checking out Toboggan when it is opens.

There will be something for novice to savant craft beer fans alike. A welcome addition to the local craft beer landscape.

Tastes of the Month

This spring had its share of big IPAs showing up as import releases, but we were given a real treat with the addition of two world class wheat ales, “uber weizens”.

Uberweizen is my moniker for the new genre of super-hopped and higher strength hefeweizens which are evolving in the craft brewing markets. This spring we had two of the best available to welcome the approaching warm days. Hopfenweiss is a highly hopped hefeweiss style pioneered by Schneider and Brooklyn brewing. Weizen heller bock is a traditional but more arcane Bavarian style resurrected by modern craft brewers — both make for a wonderful imbibing sensation on a warm spring patio.

Ayinger Weizen Bock 7.1% abv LCBO# 409458 — This beer was 500ml of ecstasy in a glass.

Truly a remarkable wheat ale offering, from arguably the best craft brewer in Bavaria (Ayinger). Pungent clove and banana aromas augment a sturdy malt undertone which seduces the taste buds, then a honey-lemon sweet and sour finish. My sample was bottled; I can only imagine how great this was fresh from the taps. As an acolyte of German brewing and beer styles, I think this is a near-perfect

One of 2014’s

TOP 10 Beer Bars in Canada

Toboggan Brewing Co. 585 Richmond St., London 519-433-beer (2337) www.tobogganbrewingcompany.com

wheat brew, one that will not disappoint even the lofty expectations of a craft beer savant. This offering is definitely on par for quality with Ayinger’s Celebrator doppelbock or their Jarhundert helles lager and Altbairisch Dunkel. Bottled heaven.

Les Trois Mousquetaires Hopfenweisse 6% abv LCBO #333468 — Comes in a 750 ml caged corked bottle — pours a murky light gold ale with a three-finger deep meringue cap that lasts. Peppery natural carbonation. Aroma of spice, succulent fruit, dusty wheat and some grassiness. Sharp peppery mouth feel, dry spritzy character with a moderately firm body. The flavour profile gives a big blast of sweet biscuits and fruit in the front side then more balance with herbal-spicy hops mid-palate, finish then goes dry and a wee bit bitter with a kiss of biscuit sweetness at the end.

A first-rate wheat ale from a great Canadian crafter.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com

www.eatdrink.ca

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51

cookbooks

Sea Salt Recipes from the West Coast Galley

By Alison Malone Eathorne, Hilary Malone & Lorna Malone Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

Author photo by Dirk Heydemann

W

hen I was asked to review Sea Salt: Recipes from the West Coast Galley, I was a bit skeptical. Seafood and I have had a shaky relationship ever since I was a kid and my family splurged one day on a bunch of lobsters, cooked and served whole.

Today I’d be thrilled at such a meal but at the time, I just thought the thing was staring at me. Besides the freak-out factor of whole crustaceans (which I finally got over — mostly) there’s simple geography. London is the city I love but we’re just not going to have the same fresh seafood they have in Vancouver. I was worried that this book would be full of recipes I’d never make.

I was wrong. So wrong. And I owe my publisher an apology for all the grumbly things I said when I saw the book. I wanted to cook nearly everything in it, right away.

I wanted to be able to talk to you about 20 recipes instead of two because two just isn’t enough. Maybe I loved this book so much because I expected not to, but I did love it.

This book is a family project. Hilary Malone and her sister, Alison Malone Eathorne are the founders of Sea Salt Food Co., a boutique catering business on the West Coast. Their mother, Lorna Malone, is an experienced sailor who always dreamed of writing a cookbook for sailors. The three women teamed up to write this, their first book.

Sea Salt recipes lean heavily toward those that can be made ahead and packaged for a Alison Malone Eathorne (left), Hilary Malone (right) & Lorna Malone

boat trip, or that can be prepared easily in a tiny galley.

People with apartment-sized kitchens may appreciate that. The chapters are arranged in categories that relate to boating adventures. As a landlubber, I found these categories a bit confusing but since the recipes looked so good, it didn’t matter much to me how they were organized.

While we don’t sail, my husband and I love to hike, particularly around Fanshawe Lake. One of our guilty pleasures is to stop for a late breakfast after an early morning hike and get one of those egg sandwiches in an English muffin (you know, under the golden arches). Muffin-Tin Frittatas, Three Ways are better. The clown does not serve breakfast with smoked salmon, serrano ham or goat cheese.

Crab Spaghettini with Chili, Lemon and Basil is one of the best examples I’ve seen of using just a few simple but excellent ingredients to make a dish that is far more than the sum of its parts. As a bonus, this one comes together in the time it takes to cook the pasta. Buy the best crabmeat you can afford for this dish, it’s worth it. I used canned but you may be able to find fresh lump crabmeat at the fish counter. Until I win the lottery I’ll probably use shrimp to make this an everyday dish.

The authors are serious about supporting the best local suppliers in their region.

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In addition to a list at the back of the book, suppliers may be highlighted in the recipes which use their ingredients. This is done so well that I wanted to drive to BC to get hazelnuts and goat’s milk cheese before I remembered that we can get these here.

I’m looking forward to trying many more of the Malones’ recipes this summer, particularly when our own fresh produce becomes available. In case I haven’t piqued your interest in this book yet, I have only this left to say: Bacon Jam. You’re welcome.

№ 53 | May/June 2015 TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Sea Salt: Recipes from the West Coast Galley, by Alison Malone Eathorne, Hilary Malone & Lorna Malone, Harbour Publishing, 2013. 29.95 Recipes courtesy of Harbour Publishing.

Photos by Christina Symons.

Crab Spaghettini with Chili, Lemon and Basil Serves two In anticipation of a boiled crab dinner for two, you bait your trap. Sadly, your day’s catch results in one lonely crustacean.

Do not despair. One crab is all that is needed for two delicious servings of this simple spaghettini dish.

5 oz (141 gr) spaghettini ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 1 red chili, seeded and diced 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced Meat from 1 cooked crab (approximately 1 cup/250 mL crabmeat) Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 small handful basil leaves, torn Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add spaghettini to the water and cook until al dente, approximately 6 to 8 minutes.

Drain pasta, reserving ½ cup (125 mL) of the cooking water.

Heat olive oil in a sauté pan.

Add chilies and garlic and toss for 30 seconds or until fragrant.

Toss in crabmeat, lemon zest and lemon juice.

Stirring gently, add enough reserved cooking water to the pan to create a light sauce.

Add basil and toss. Serve immediately.

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

53

Muffin-Tin Frittatas, Three Ways Serves six.

A breakfast favourite for our crew of eight was always an egg and ham breakfast sandwich. In lumpy seas, I would scramble the eggs, warm the ham, melt cheese overtop and then assemble it all on English muffins, one at a time. It was always quite a production and I wish I discovered the muffin-tin method years ago. We now bake individual frittatas—filled with our favourite ingredients—in muffin tins in the oven and have them in English muffins. These sandwiches go over extremely well with a tired, hungry crew at the beginning of what is sure to be a long day on the course. If you wish to simplify the preparation process even further, cook the eggs before leaving the dock and keep them warm in the oven in a baking tray covered with foil. Once it’s time to serve, tuck the frittatas into English muffins that have been warmed in the oven for a few minutes.

A smearing of our Bacon Jam and a thick slice of tomato are delicious additions, as well.

WITH SERRANO HAM 6 thin slices Serrano ham 6 eggs 6 slices aged cheddar cheese 6 English muffins Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Lightly grease a six-portion, standard-sized muffin tin. Loosely fold a slice of Serrano ham into each cup.

Crack an egg into each cup. For a shorter cooking time, prick the yolks. Top each with a slice of cheese. Bake for 15 minutes for a well-done egg or until the yolk is set to your liking. During the last few minutes of baking, warm English muffins in the oven in a pan. Lift frittatas out of muffin cups using a spoon and serve in English muffins.

WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES & GOAT’S CHEESE 6 eggs ¼ cup (60 mL) sun-dried tomatoes, drained and diced ¼ cup (60 mL) crumbled goat’s cheese 2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley (optional) 6 English muffins Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Lightly grease a six-portion, standard-sized muffin tin. Crack eggs into a bowl and beat well with a whisk.

Mix in sun-dried tomatoes, goat’s cheese and chives. Pour into six muffin cups. Bake for 15 minutes, until set. During the last few minutes of baking, warm English muffins in the oven in a pan. Lift frittatas out of muffin cups using a spoon and serve in English muffins.

WITH SMOKED SALMON & GOAT’S CHEESE 6 eggs ¼ cup (60 mL) smoked salmon, broken into small pieces ¼ cup (60 mL) goat’s cheese, crumbled 1 handful sprouts (such as pea shoots or sunflower sprouts), for garnish 6 English muffins Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Lightly grease a sixportion, standard-sized muffin tin. Crack eggs into a bowl and beat well with a whisk. Mix in smoked salmon and goat’s cheese. Pour into six muffin cups. Bake for 15 minutes, until set. During the last few minutes of baking, warm English muffins in the oven in a pan. Lift frittatas out of muffin cups using a spoon and serve with sprouts in English muffins.

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books

A Curious History of Food and Drink

by Ian Crofton Review by DARIN COOK

H

istory buffs and foodies unite! or how This could have been the battle nutritional cry of Ian Crofton when writing studies of his book A Curious History of spinach in Food and Drink (Quercus, 2013, $19.99).

1870 became From prehistory to the 21st century, Crofton associated has chronologically arranged an assortment with of anecdotal tidbits about the culinary Popeye world. With such a span of history, he comics in intentionally does not delve into extensive 1929. details, but does provide an informative Aside sequence of epicurean events, such as: the from the purely Aztec consumption of cacao drinks since historical, Crofton does not shy 1400 BC, how French toast came to be in away from revealing the most unusual food 1346, how omelettes were born in 1835 items imaginable. At some point in history during a Spanish uprising, and how the and in some part of the world, all manner flavours from descendants of those same of creatures were considered for food: prehistoric cacao beans were solidified into hippopotamus soup in 6000 BC; peacocks chocolate bars in 1847.

by Italian chefs in 1465; seagulls fattened This is a reference book, not meant with salted beef before slaughter circa 1550 to have a unifying premise aside from in England; elephant feet in 1790 in Africa. putting a parade of food into historical Some of these foods were prepared not just perspective, with a few recurring themes for taste, however, but also prescribed for peppered throughout. Facts about coffee medicinal purposes, like roast bear to stall are a common thread through time, from baldness, licorice to treat sore feet, and its mythical invention in Arabia in 850, to potatoes to cure warts. the most expensive coffee beans, which The materials Crofton references are started becoming popular in 1850, that vast and diverse: the Bible, Chaucer’s reportedly pass through the digestive Canterbury Tales, Rolling Stone magazine, tract of the civet, a cat-like mammal Brillat-Savarin’s Physiology of Taste, James from tropical climates.

Joyce’s Ulysses, and the In general, the book is a first English printed compendium of trivia, cookbook circa 1500 called old wives’ tales, riddles, A Noble Boke of Cokery. He poems, and ancient recipes has also dug up unusual from a plethora of sources. research in books like The The most interesting facts Animal Food Resources of deal with how culinary Different Nations of 1885, traditions became popular, and a book from 1611 called like in 1284 when tapas Coryate’s Crudities Hastily were introduced as small Gobbled up in Five Months’ snacks between meals to Travels in France, Italy, absorb vast quantities of etc. by Thomas Coryate, Author Ian Crofton wine in Spanish stomachs, who is credited with

№ 53 | May/June 2015

introducing the fork to England after seeing it used in Italy. Crofton does acknowledge when he suspects that the origin story of a certain food might be a tall tale, like the potentially-fictitious invention of potato chips in a New York restaurant in 1853 after a guest complained about too-thick fries.

But he also values a good story and does not exclude foodstuffs from his “research” even if they are historically unsound. He even pulls out nursery rhyme quotes, such as how “four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie” might have been true in the Middle Ages with live birds hidden under pie crusts (as a joke to surprise the guests, not for them to eat).

This is a fun and entertaining read to boost your foodie knowledge, especially if you are the type who feels the need to know things like when the tomato officially transformed from its classification as a vegetable to a fruit in 1893, or when umami was introduced as the fifth taste (in 1901).

There are also truly historical tidbits about why Richard Nixon had a lifelong revulsion of string beans and how Thomas Jefferson came to own the first pasta-making machine in the United States in 1789 (several centuries after pasta first appeared in Italy in 1154).

“The Ancient World” illustration For history buffs, trivia enthusiasts, and curious foodies, this is a good way to fill the mental coffers with useful and useless knowledge. There is no need to read the book cover to cover, unless you are voracious about accumulating food wisdom; a quick scan of a few pages from time to time will surely provide enough random facts to satisfy the trivia itch (such as why holes were added to doughnuts in 1847 or what John Glenn ate for his first space meal in 1962).

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and works in Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants on London.

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

BEER MATTERS

on the boards

Fine Stories, Well Told at Port Stanley Festival Theatre

By RICK YOUNG

“F

ine stories, well told” is how Artistic Director Simon Joynes describes Port Stanley Festival Theatre’s 2015 season. “We produce exclusively Canadian compelling material in a variety of comedic, musical, and dramatic genres,” says Joynes, who has been the theatre’s Artistic Director since 2005.

In line with its mandate, the theatre’s season of five “fine stories” kicks off on May 27 and continues until September 29 — a week longer than in previous years. Extending the season is a reflection of the theatre’s growth and development, says Joynes.

“Last year we had 59 sell-outs. The market is there and we always look to fill it. It’s good for us, it’s good for the village and the region, and it serves the needs of our patrons,” says Joynes. “Also, our expanded auditorium will include 50 extra seats when it opens in 2016, and in order to fill them, it’s important to continue growing our audience base.

Hopefully, lengthening the season in 2015 will help us do this.”

The intimate 150-seat theatre located in the former Village/Town Hall building on the shores of Lake Erie in Port Stanley has been entertaining summer theatre-goers with “fine stories” since it was founded by Jim Schaefer in the 1970s. Known then as the Port Stanley Summer Theatre, it operated as a semi-professional, community-based theatre using local themes, actors and staff.

Leap forward to the early 1990s, when the theatre emerged in its modern incarnation after a group of local citizens came together to elect a Board of Directors, establishing by-laws, attaining status as a registered not-for-profit charitable organization, and rebranding the theatre as the Port Stanley Festival Theatre (PSFT).

“Since then the theatre has gradually grown. It purchased the Village Hall building in the early 2000’s, started Youth Program­ ming in 2000, became a fully professional

Equity theatre in 2007, and has expanded its season from 84 perfor­ mances to over 125,” says Joynes.

As Artistic Director, one of Joynes’ most important responsibilities is the selection of the playbill for each summer season.

“The attempt is to program five distinct pieces of theatre per season that will suit our demographic/market niche while at the same time expand the breadth and variety of that programming. A variety of factors go into the mix including budget, artistic merit, availability of talent, and box office appeal,” says Joynes.

“For the past five years new play develop­ ment has also been a part of this process.

I read probably 40 plays a year. Some are submitted by playwrights for consideration, some are recommended by other ADs, and some are plays that have been on my radar for a number of years,” he adds.

While there are no world premieres this year, the 2015 Season offers theatre-goers plenty of variety.

Rhinestone Cowgirl: A Tribute to Dolly Parton, written, produced, and performed

by Sudbury, Ontario native, Leisa Way, begins the season on May 27 and runs until June 6. “It is a tried and true musical revue which should provide a high energy start to the season,” says Joynes.

Norm Foster’s Hilda’s Yard, a 1950’s period comedy which follows the trials and tribulations of a family whose grown children have returned home to roost, runs from June 10 to July 4.

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Next up is Old Wives’ Tales by Kevin Riordan, which tells the story of the relationship between a mother and daughter through a series of vignettes along the theme of “always listen to your mother,” July 8 to August 1.

Michael Healey’s The Drawer Boy takes the stage August 5 to August 22. It explores long hidden mysteries, the bonds of friendship, and the wonder of stories well told. “It is a superb piece of dramatic writing which won both the Governor General’s and Chalmers Awards when it was first produced,” says Joynes.

The extended 2015 season closes with Real Estate by Allana Harkin, August 26 to September 19. The play combines the characters of a blocked writer, a guy with perfect hair, an ex-wife, and a real estate saleswoman with more enthusiasm than experience, to illustrate the perils of new beginnings and starting over.

Joynes says that PSFT casts are usually made up of a combination of new faces discovered through an audition process and actors whom he has worked with in the past, both in Port Stanley and at other theatres. “I usually direct three of the five plays. The first show — usually a buy in — often comes in

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already directed before it reaches us, and the remaining play is directed by a guest director.

In 2015 this will be Matthew Gorman who has been a member of our acting company for a number of years,” says Joynes.

“Port Stanley is a beautiful destination and we look to have our patrons enjoy the whole village experience,” says Joynes. “The lake is great, with two beaches. There’s wonderful accommodation and dining available, a rich arts community, and here at the Theatre we work really hard to produce top notch professional entertainment.”

№ 53 | May/June 2015

Port Stanley Festival Theatre 2015 Season subscriptions are now available.

Port Stanley Festival Theatre 6-302 Bridge Street, Port Stanley ON 519-782-4353 www.portstanleytheatre.ca RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local, regional and national print and online publications, was the Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.

sound bites

Swinging into Summer

By NICOLE LAIDLER

G

rab your dancing shoes and get ready to swing into summer with vocalist Gina Farrugia and the 18-piece Prime Time Big Band. Their May 15 concert at Aeolian Hall features cabaret seating and a jumping dance floor — fuelled by fox trots, jives, and what Farrugia calls “old school swing.”

“I’ve been singing with these guys for about five years now, and it’s a really special thing,” says Farrugia. “I feel like I’m in a time capsule.”

The annual collaboration always attracts an enthusiastic crowd ready to hit the dance floor, but Farrugia says you don’t need to be part of a couple to enjoy a great night out.

The balcony will also be open for those who prefer to do their toe-tapping sitting down. “It’ll be two or three hours of great non-stop music,” she says. www.aeolianhall.ca A more traditional concert takes place the same night at Wolf Performance Hall, when violinist Nikki Chooi and pianist Philip Chiu team up to close yet another season of The Jeffery Concerts with a program that includes Prokofiev’s Sonata No. 1 in F minor, Op. 80, Bach’s Chaconne for Solo Violin, and Gershwin’s jazzinspired Three Preludes.

“Since our inception, we have been the principal source of chamber music in London, performed by internationally recognized artists,” says Jeffery Concerts board member, David Rosner. “We strive to widen public interest in this most intimate music, which has engaged every major composer from Bach to the present.” www.jefferyconcerts.com

Gina Farrugia

Nikki Chooi. Photo by Steve Riskind

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№ 53 | May/June 2015

Members of the Vancouver Inter-Cultural Orchestra Small Ensemble The Ontario Sound of Dragon Music Festival roars into town May 23, when members of the Vancouver Inter-Cultural Orchestra and Taiwan’s Little Giant Chinese Chamber Orchestra join forces at Aeolian Hall.

The international collaboration brings together erhu (Chinese violin), sheng (Chinese mouth organ), zheng (Chinese zither), ruan (Chinese lute), western violin, and world percussion for a diverse program of folk music interpretations and original works.

“What I like most about working with different instruments and musicians from different backgrounds are the opportunities to take culturally-specific materials and sounds outside their context and experiment with something new,” comments VICO member and Sound of Dragon artistic director, Lan Tung. “It’s exciting to hear contrasting and sometimes contradicting elements come together.”

Those contrasting elements will include influences from Indian, Klezmer, Persian, Chinese and Taiwanese traditions as well as The Beatles, on a program Tung says will re-define Chinese music and reflect Canada’s multicultural environment. www.aeolianhall.ca The Estonian National Male Choir (RAM Koor) celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. The world-renowned ensemble is marking the occasion with an international tour that takes them to France, Germany, Israel and Canada.

Thanks to the Bach Music Festival of Canada, the Ontario leg of their Canadian visit includes an afternoon performance at Exeter’s Trivitt Memorial Anglican Church on May 31.

“RAM Koor is an Estonian national treasure known for their renditions of

large-scale choral works by composers such as Britten, Brahms, Liszt, Schubert and Sibelius,” comments Bach Music Festival of Canada producer, Sonja van de Hoef.

Van de Hoef recently stepped into the role of festival producer, taking over from festival co-founder Louise Fagan (who remains involved as a consultant.)

The third edition of the Bach Music Festival of Canada runs July 12 to 19.

“The fact that a small community such as Exeter is able to support such a high calibre festival speaks to the remarkable people involved — the audience, the sponsors and the volunteers,” says van de Hoef. “I’m thrilled to have the opportunity to get to know this community and the people who help it flourish.” www.bachfestival.ca

Dave Dunlop will perform with the Jeans ’n Classics “The Music of Pink Floyd” concert on June 20

6 weeks, 100 musical events tickets on sale now!

live at Revival house cabaRets, 9pm (formerly the church restaurant)

July 25 august 8 august 22 august 29 plus

$40 or series of 4/$140

rebecca caine carole Pope newfoundland Jazz ceilidh with heather Bambrick micah Barnes & friends The Magic Flute: mozart’s opera – sung in english

august 14 & 15 at 6:30 pm. august 16 at 12pm. $99 includes a 3-course meal.

For tickets call 1.866.288.4313 stratfordsummermusic.ca There’s also plenty of live music going on in Bayfield, thanks to a new purpose-built venue at the recently-renovated Ashwood Inn (formerly called the Bayfield Village Inn), located just outside of town above the Bayfield River.

The Ashwood’s Bourbon Bar features a large stage and state-of-the-art sound system that will play host to a year-round line up of top Canadian and international talent.

The fun gets underway May 30 with an already sold-out performance by The Skydiggers and continues with Old Man Luedecke (June 7), Jason Collett (June 11) and My Son The Hurricane (June 30). The 140-seat venue will also host a weekly Bluegrass Brunch from noon to five.

“We’re lucky that Bayfield has become an artists’ destination,” says the Ashwood’s general manager and in-house music director, Peter Meades. “It will be great for Huron County to have a venue that was designed to host music right from the get-go, rather than having it be an afterthought at a pub or restaurant.” www.theashwood.com

Audiences have a final chance to do good while enjoying good music, June 20 at the London Convention Centre. That’s when Jeans ’n Classics wraps up another season with The Music of Pink Floyd — The Wall and Dark Side of the Moon.

Thanks to a partnership with Habitat for Humanity, proceeds from every local Jeans ’n Classics concert help support the organization’s mission to provide homes for low income families in our community.

“By mobilizing volunteers and commu­ nity partners like Jeans ’n Classics, we can build to end poverty by promoting afford­ able and sustainable homeownership,” explains Jeff Duncan, Habitat for Human­ ity–Heartland Ontario president and CEO. Tickets for The Music of Pink Floyd — and next year’s Jeans ’n Classics season — are available online. www.jeansnclassics.com NICOLE LAIDLER has been covering the local music scene for more than a decade. See what else she is up to at www. spilledink.ca

62

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 53 | May/June 2015

the lighter side

Big Girl Pantries

By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD

T

he fact that my pantry, something I yearned for my entire life, has a door, is a mixed blessing. Ideally I would have preferred glass so that I could admire the colourful labels of neatly stacked preserves and jewel-toned specialty vinegars as I passed by, and perhaps a batterie de cuisine like Nigella has, with all manner of higgledy-piggledy utensils strewn carelessly on a rod yet somehow bound together by a singular whimsy all its own. But alas, this is the fantasy and not the reality.

My humble pantry (not to be confused with the British larder which is more of a cold cellar and kept cool enough year round to house various cheeses, pickles and great hams) often requires a serious intervention and at no time am I more keenly aware of this than in the spring, when the urge to purge is upon me.

Actually getting down to the dreaded clear out is intense. I have consulted many storage advisory websites, books and magazines prior to the big clean day and a common theme shines throughout: like must go with like. Boldly, I set out with a garbage bag at the ready as I try to follow through.

But there are many things here that do not go with anything. Why, for example, is there an (alarmingly realistic) rubber mouse in here? (An under-the-door casualty of some late night game of “cat soccer” no doubt). I offer this relic brightly to the Siamese cats who shoot me a look that says: “Seriously?”

Similarly, what to do with an entire box of baking soda that has been housed too closely to the sinus-openingly fresh Garam Masala that I recently ground myself? There are not many recipes calling for curried baking soda.

Moving on to the dried food section, I find 14 tiny, twist-tied bags, each with approximately five pieces of pasta of various sizes. The dome-shaped jars I bought at IKEA — stunningly elegant in their own

right — never actually fit an entire bag of pasta so the effect is somewhat diminished when I have to relegate the remainder to sandwich bags.

There’s also the deeply unpleasant discovery of a small plastic sleeve of walnuts — unopened but from ancient times — which now presents a transparent vista to tiny, writhing moths, some of whom are performing an admirable version of the Macarena. The bag is totally sealed but I’m so rattled that I scrub the entire pantry with a bleach solution just to be sure.

Of course, there are treasures here as well. My dearest friend always brings back a bottle of thick, inky black balsamic vinegar from Italy and the pencil-thin bottle with its crimped ribbon and uneven seal of red wax looks very Harry Potterish on its shelf of honour. My sister-in-law’s jar of blackcurrant jam — squat and majestic in its own right — sits next to a pot of preserved lemons and there are rows of brightly labeled San Marzano tomatoes.

Harissa in a cheerful yellow tube gleams next to its curious neighbor Marmite and there’s a coveted bottle of garnet-shiny pomegranate molasses behind them, as well as four different kinds of rice.

Standing back, I comfort myself with the notion that there is still a goodly amount of food in the house and all is not lost.

By the end of the day, I am very happy and order has been restored; in fact, I will return to the pantry often just to admire the view. We may not be ready for an inspection from Mrs. Patmore of Downton but for now I can enjoy the soothing balm to my conscience that only organization can provide.

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is an award-winning freelance writer who lives and works in Old South London. She is also a regular contributor to eatdrink.

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