Eatdrink #63 January/February 2017

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 № 63 • January/February 2017 www.eatdrink.ca

Culinary Entrepreneur

Dave Cook Community Catalyst in London’s

Old East Village

Includes Our

2017 London Wine & Food Show

Profiles of Excellence SUPPLEMENT

Dark Horse Estate Winery Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse

FEATURING

Abruzzi Ristorante

Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion

Quai du Vin Estate Winery

Getting It Right in St. Thomas

Anderson Craft Ales

Brewing Magic in London

ALSO: 2017 Culinary Trends | Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads Recipes | Couples Resort in Muskoka

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 63 | January/February 2017

SAVOUR the art of food in STRATFORD Escape for a winter culinary extravaganza of Stratford Chefs School student creations, innovative cheese and beverage tastings, calming high tea and a Hunter’s Feast of Canadian game meats. Sip craft beer and spirits and create your custom journey on Savour Stratford Culinary Trails.

12

Stratford Chefs School dinners (until Mar 6)

JAN

13-15 Stratford Winterfest, Queen’s Park

14

Savour Stratford Blues & Booze, Milky Whey

21

The Hunter’s Feast, The Bruce Restaurant

29

High Tea, Bradshaws at Revival House

4

Savour Stratford Spanish Wine & Cheese, Milky Whey

12

INNERChamber Concert, Factory163

18

Savour Stratford French Cheese & Wine, Milky Whey

19

Sunday Brunch with Stratford Symphony

24

Live at Revival House – Alysha Brilla

FEB

2

Design your culinary getaway at visitstratford.ca @SavourStratford @StratfordON

StratfordON

Stratford, Ontario

VisitStratfordON

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London

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FESTIVAL

2017 Blizzard Edition January 20th–February 5th

Indulge in a 2 or 3 Course Meal!

2 Course Lunch Menus $15 & $20 3 Course Dinner Menus $25, $30, $35 & $40

Call Restaurants for Your Reservations Today!

For Locations and Menus See Website

www.londonlicious.ca Armouries Grille

Fire Rock Pub

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine

Black Trumpet

Garlic’s of London

Restaurant Ninety One

Blake’s Bistro & Bar

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Sweet Onion Grill

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La Casa

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The River Room

Byron Free House

Le Rendez-Vous

The Runt Club

CHE Restobar

London Wine Bar

Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro

Chop Steakhouse Bar

Michael’s On The Thames

Villa Cornelia

Crossings Pub & Eatery - Hyde Park Rd.

Old South Village Pub

Waldo’s Byron

Crossings Pub & Eatery - Lambeth

Practical Henry’s Pub & Eatery

Waldo’s On King

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Winks

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OUR COVER

Culinary entrepreneur and Old East Village champion and community catalyst Dave Cook, in front of a wall of his Fire Roasted Coffee.

Photo by Nick Lavery of Take 5 Digital (www.t5digital.com)

Exceptional Food. Outstanding Service.

NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING THE RHINO LOUNGE BAKERY | COFFEE SHOPPE The River Room is

Open for Dinner during Londonlicious Thurs, Fri & Sat Nights

www.northmoore.ca | www.theriverroom.ca 519.850.2287 River Room | 519.850.5111 NMC /Rhino Lounge

Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship

London Training Centre’s

Program

Know an Aspiring Chef?

This fully funded 6 month program is the place to start Student Focused Interactive Unique Learning Opportunities

Starting March 6, 2017 For more information contact:

Steve James

London Training Centre

steve@londontraining.on.ca

ondon ra n ng CENTRE

www.londontraining.on.ca

This Employment Ontario Program is Funded by the Government of Ontario

contents

ISSUE № 63

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017

F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E

10

10

Our Collective Appetite: 17 Culinary Trends in 2017

R E S TAU R A N T S

By BRYAN LAVERY

14

By TANYA CHOPP

Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion at Abruzzi in London

C U L I N A RY R E TA I L

ROAD TR I PS

By JANE ANTONIAK

18 Culinary Entrepreneur Dave Cook, in London’s OEV

By BRYAN LAVERY

14

22

N E W & N O TA B L E

33

LONDON WINE & FOOD SHOW PROFILES OF EXCELLENCE SUPPLEMENT

26

18 40 44

Z Z U B THE 26

Looking for Romance? Couples Resort in Muskoka

The BUZZ

Dark Horse Estate Winery: Bred for Taste Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse: Eat & Drink at the Water’s Edge

B E E R M AT T E R S

By WAYNE NEWTON

WINE

40

44

Brewing Magic in London: Anderson Craft Ales

Getting it Right at Quai du Vin Estate Winery

By GARY KILLOPS

SPIRITS

By BILL WITTUR

T H E C L A S S I C A L B E AT

By NICOLE LAIDLER

46

49

A Focus on Craft: Four Niagara Region Distillers

Young Talent Shines Bright

VA R I O U S M U S I C A L N O T E S

46

51

Let It Snow: Winter Concerts to Keep You Warm

By GERRY BLACKWELL

T H E AT R E

51 57

54

Theater in Winter: Some Joy, Some Madness, and More

By JANE ANTONIAK

COOKBOOKS

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

BOOKS

Reviews by DARIN COOK

THE LIGHTER SIDE

By KYM WOLFE

57

60

62

Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads by Jill Wilcox and Josie Pontarelli

Selections for the Resolute

A Piece of Cake?

62

cheers!

Ups N’ Downs, Downtown Sarnia

call or click for your FREE travel guide & map also available at southwestern ontario travel centres

1.800.265.0316 •

tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

notes from the publisher

Time to Dine

By CHRIS McDONELL

I

try to take some comfort in knowing but we all need to take a deep breath and resist that time is passing at the same rate the swirl of time rushing by. Savour the joys of for everyone. That is a fact. Yet I am in life. I could put my publisher hat on and wax constant wonderment about time’s enthusiastically about how critical our increasingly rapid acceleration as food and drink, the fuel that sustains experienced by me, a middle-aged us, is to that purpose. That is certainly man (if I live more than a century). true, but what is most important Constantly checking my mental Valentine’s Day are the people around us. Family, arithmetic when calculating how friends, neighbours, colleagues, TUESDAY February 14 long ago significant events in my life acquaintances ... People come and took place — “That can’t be right!” — the go through our lives and we rely upon flip side is equally distressing. Upcoming them in different ways at different times. events race forward on the calendar, and the Appreciate them. For they are what shapes us rush to get things done seems perpetual. most, helping us become who we are.

“Take time to smell the roses.” This advice is equally apt for younger people, with Will you be my Valentine? If that question 21st-century economic and social media seems trite or outdated, perhaps think pressures my generation didn’t experience, again. Valentine’s Day reminds us to express

er!

Remind

Experience the World of Tea™

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

feelings of love and affection, and dining out together is an outstanding way to do so. Make reservations early (and honour them!), for it is a busy day for restaurants.

Whether you opt for a visit to a treasured and favourite spot or an exploration of an exciting new venue, the sharing of great food and drink with someone you care about is good for body and soul. Enjoy!

We would love to say hello to you at our booth at the London Wine & Food Show, January 19–21. Thursday remains the best day to attend if you enjoy talking to the experts, as Friday and Saturday are busier, but this is great fun and a wonderful way to indulge in new tastes. We also have an excellent draw prize this year courtesy of Lexus of London and Windermere Manor — see page 41 of this issue for details— but if you can’t make the show, you can also enter online. See our Facebook page for details.

Happy New Year, and best wishes for 2017 from our entire crew.

Pure Ingredients Chef-Prepared Take-Home Meals House-Made Sauces and Preserves Gourmet Kitchen Items Baked Goods Catering

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10

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

food writer at large

Our Collective Appetite 17 Culinary Trends in 2017

By BRYAN LAVERY

T

rends — the general direction in which something is developing or changing —advance in predictable stages. This is no different in the culinary world, where we see the manifestations of our collective appetites.

In no particular order, here are the most prominent local trends.

1

The big news this year is the everincreasing popularity of, and passion for, plant-based cuisine. Vegetarian, vegan and root-to-stalk cooking have gone from hot food trends to mainstream contenders. The majority of meat alternatives may still be soy or from Plant Matter Kitchen wheat-based but chickpeas, corn, legumes and fungi are replacing animal proteins in restaurants.

Think kidney bean pepperoni, heart of palm calamari, coconut bacon, smoked carrot lox, cultured cashew milk cheeses and vegan doughnuts. At the centre of several trends — plant-based cuisine, foraging and umami — all manner of fungi are building a forceful presence on the culinary scene.

2

Jackfruit, with its spiky outer shell and starchy pear-like inner flesh, is also touted as a go-to meat substitute with a good source of dietary fibre, an ability to absorb flavours, and a savoury taste when cooked. In fact, jackfruit is expected to be positioned as a top food trend for 2017.

Kale’s former ubiquity was challenged by cauliflower last year. Expect seaweed’s new-found popularity to be the latest contender thanks to its being

high in umami flavour and health benefits.

Incidentally the term “veggies” in Jackfruit Pinterest “comfort food” searches soared 336% in the past year.

3

There is a strong argument that the spiralizer is one of the hottest kitchen gadgets in the market right now. Spiralizing — turning fresh vegetables into faux noodles — is expected to sustain popularity for a long time, owing to the from Bradshaws “eat healthy” and vegetarian movements.

4

Last year saw the launch of a savoury, spicy and sweet flavour trend which was found in everything from potato chips (harissa-hummus) to ice creams (Thai peanut butter pretzel). Due to their success these mash-up flavour combos are on the radar again this year.

5

There are a number of emerging super foods which include the African fruit baobab (usually pronounced bow-bab, or bay-obab) known for its high concentration of vitamin C, fibre and antioxidants; tropical fruits cherimoya and soursop whose sweet flesh and distinctive characteristics are used to flavour beverages and ice cream; and kaniwa (pronounced ka-nyi-wa) a high-fibre high-protein food that is being heralded as the new quinoa.

Baobab fruit

№ 63 | January/February 2017

6

Speaking of quinoa, there is a developing market in Ontario for a homegrown crop of the superfood that is gluten-free, high in fibre and zinc, and an excellent source of magnesium and iron. Quinoa has been reigning supreme as a healthy high-protein trend since 2014. Also expect to hear about a whole new generation of spirits made with grains like quinoa.

7

One of the top break-out trends continues to be the “clean” movement. Eating “clean” is the present-day form of the late 1960s and ’70s natural food movement. It is all about providing transparency and eliminating anything that has additives or chemicals, is processed, or has been exposed to pesticides. The movement streamlines product labeling and provides clean label lists of simplified ingredients that consumers can easily understand and pronounce.

8

Turmeric, the rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant of the ginger family with powerful anti-inflammatory effects, antioxidant benefits, and an ability to balance other flavours, is considered to be the top culinary trend of the last few years.

According to industry insiders turmeric continues to pick up steam as a trending ingredient (up 21%). Other trending spices are caraway (up 40%), saffron (up 31%) and horseradish (up 29%). Cayenne pepper rose 47% in global product launches.

9

There is a growing demand for greater diversity and higher levels of authenticity in ethnic cuisines. Relatively unknown and underappreciated, the African culinary canon features a range of from TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant

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dining + weddings + receptions concerts + dinner shows tour groups + private functions For parties of 2 or 200, in 3 gorgeous rooms REVIVAL … our inspired dining + events venue BELFRY … a chill upstairs gastrolounge CONFESSION … Stratford’s VIP hideaway

Reopening after seasonal break on Friday, Jan. 27

distinct and diverse cuisines. Berbere, baharat, dukkah, ras el hanout, tsire and other traditional African spice blends are achieving broader use and emerging as the new ethnic inspiration for cooks.

10

Offering authentic flavours and showmanship, handpulled noodles are expected to be the big on-trend taste in urban Chinese restaurants. Pasta is also poised to make a strong comeback.

11

70 Brunswick St. Stratford 519.273.3424 celebrate@revival.house www.revival.house

London’s Destination for Culinary Excellence 34

Years of Extraordinary Service

Food symposiums and culinary events are a very effective way to gauge the culinary zeitgeist. To celebrate 150 years of Canada, the 2017 presenters of Terroir will showcase the history, diversity and leadership of our culinary landscape in a program titled “Our Home and Native Land: Celebrating Canadian Gastronomy” at The Art Gallery of Ontario on May 29, 2017.

The Terroir Symposium is a non-profit educational event designed to bring together innovative and creative influencers from the field of hospitality, including chefs, food and beverage experts, writers and business leaders. It is an opportunity to champion the connection between “taste and place,” showcase culinary innovation and raise the global profile of Canadian cuisine.

12 Reserve for Valentine’s Day at London’s Most Romantic Restaurant Lunch Tuesday to Friday Dinner 7 Nights a Week

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Thursday through Saturday from 6pm

s ficate Certi the t f i G e 519-672-0111 Free On-Site Parking Mak ct Gift Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com Perfe 1 York Street

to make your reservation online

Anyone who has chanced upon a menu with a strong focus of wild and foraged seasonal ingredients, or that draws inspiration from traditional indigenous cooking techniques such as cedar plank barbecuing, has tasted the influence of contemporary Canadian cuisine. Rich with culinary history, Canadian indigenous cuisine is full of the seasonal flavours of traditional First Nation’s cuisine as well as the culinary practices of early settlers and immigrants.

13

Chefs continue to be preoccupied with cured, pickled, fermented, foraged and house-made or artisanal food and beverages like ­kombucha, pickles, ­sausages

Natural Ingredients from Local Vendors Baked with Butter from Scratch In House

from Revival House and salumi. The demand for artisan cured meats and charcuterie and artisan cheese boards show no signs of abating. Pork in all its iterations, especially charcuterie, pho and bibimbap remain wildly popular. The earthy and acidic flavours of fermented foods like tempeh, kimchi, kombucha and sauerkraut continue to be hot trends.

Lovingly Crafted with Skill & Heart

14

Made by hand, in small batches, with specialized and local ingredients continues to be the gastronomic entrepreneur’s rallying call.

15

Going out to a restau­ rant remains the number one preferred activity for spending time with family and friends. Recent studies state that nearly half of all restaurant visitors now self-identify as foodies.

16

Breakfast as we know it is expected to be transformed with more ethnic flavours and heavier brunch-style items. The hottest recent “innovations” are updated versions of the all-day breakfast. Also expect to see dark chocolate cake make an appearance on breakfast menus, given its recent elevation due to its purported beneficial impact on memory, focus and cognitive function.

Owners Tabitha & Dave

New York Style Bagels! Apple & Blueberry Fritters!

900 Oxford Street East at Gammage

519-601-1651

Delicious LUNCH DINNER SUNDAY BRUNCH

17

The inclination of millennials for natural, uncomplicated and healthful diets will drive the continuing expansion of vegetarian, vegan and other plant-based food and beverage offerings. Recent studies have indicated that 58% of millennials are inclined to agree that the food you purchase and where you buy it are a reflection of your personal values.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.

519.432.4092

481 Richmond St., London, ON

14

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

restaurants

Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion at Abruzzi Ristorante in London

By TANYA CHOPP | Photography by STEVE GRIMES

A

bruzzi’s Chef Dave Lamers and Manager Rob D’Amico share a glance and a smile as they talk about how quickly the past six years in business have flown by. And though the restaurant’s co-owners haven’t changed course since setting out on their original mission of serving up “Italian-inspired” cuisine, what has propelled the establishment forward is the way Lamers and D’Amico have spent careful time and attention stoking the flames of inspiration.

Each year the duo make a point to travel to a new destination, where they soak up information on new cooking techniques, culinary trends, and learn firsthand about the producers working at the point of origin for the ingredients and products that make their way to Abruzzi.

In previous years Lamers and D’Amico have visited New York, Dallas and Toronto (to name a few). In late 2016, they embarked on a trek to Tuscany, Italy, specifically the Chianti Classico Gusmè region. There they visited farms, wineries and restaurants — and experienced the exquisite delight of traveling through truffle season.

“We normally don’t go back to the same restaurant twice,” admits D’Amico. “But while we were away we went back to one place for the same

Abruzzi owners Rob D’Amico and Chef Dave Lamers. The restaurant features a welcoming bar (below left) and flexible table arrangements to accommodate larger groups or intimate dining. Large windows open to the street (below right) in warmer months.

№ 63 | January/February 2017

dish — Tagallini with butter and white truffles — four times. If we were still in Tuscany, I’d have been there again,” he says with a laugh.

Beyond the truffles, the trip also fell over the grape harvest season, making it an ideal time to visit several wineries including Tolaini and Villa Sesta (both of which have wines proudly available on Abruzzi’s wine list) to learn about their vintage selections and the soil qualities of the region.

Now back on home turf, what D’Amico and Lamers learned has Honouring Italian tradition and committing to freshness, all pastas become well-employed at Abruzzi. are handmade in house (left) and whole lambs and pigs are broken Approximately 70 per cent of down for house-cured pancetta and assorted charcuterie. the wine that comprises Abruzzi’s extensive list originates in Italy, with Armed with the knowledge gathered by prices ranging from an affordable $35 to an the co-owners on their travels, the service indulgent $285 per bottle. The wines carried staff are always eager to share the stories of by the restaurant are not available through the regions and producers with patrons. the LCBO and are specially imported; each It’s also worthwhile to note that the drink supplier is individually selected for quality selection goes well beyond wine. Abruzzi and pair-ability with Abruzzi’s menu items. boasts an expanded scotch list and a wide variety of local craft brewed beer from suppliers such as Muskoka Brewery and New Limburg Brewing Company.

And in the kitchen, Chef Lamers is constantly engaged in the process of creation. “Watching his mind work as he creates new features is like watching art in motion,” says D’Amico with a hint of awe. “The creativity that comes out shows all of his years of experience.”

At minimum, Abruzzi’s menu changes on a monthly basis and reflects the offerings of the season.

1 2 However, guests may be surprised at any point to discover a fresh new feature.

Abruzzi has an extensive list of local and sustainable suppliers who regularly consult with DESSERTS: 1 — S’MORES: dark chocolate brownie, torched marshmallow crème, fudge sauce, vanilla gelato, graham crumble; 2 — PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE: toasted white chocolate, white chocolate gelato, pumpkin seed brittle, spiced anglaise; 3 — APPLE “PIE”: cinnamon gelato, poached apples, cinnamon anglaise bourbon caramel, apple butter, butter crust crumble, apple chip; 4 — TIRAMISU: lady fingers, amaretto zabaglione, chocolate crémeux, espresso caviar, toasted white chocolate.

4

1

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

Lamers, bringing by seasonal and surplus items that Chef and his staff members are quick to transform into a new feature item. “Local suppliers will bring items by all the time,” says Chef Lamers. “I never turn them away and it’s exciting to see what they bring.”

Describing his kitchen as “without hierarchy,” Chef Lamers says that he’ll never be found “in a big white hat.”

Instead, he believes in promoting inclusion. At Abruzzi, young cooks are encouraged to take part in the process and to run with their ideas, and the resulting items are vetted during staff tasting sessions before being rolled out to the floor.

In 2017, the staff will have a new source of creativity to play with, as a curing meat chamber (installed in 2016) will have finalized its first round of curing.

“The idea is that we will now be able to craft our own charcuterie on site,” says Chef Lamers.

2

4

3 SALAD: 1 — Loco Fields Organic Baby Beets, goat cheese panna cotta, beet purée, Niagara baco noir vinaigrette, arugula, toasted hazelnuts APPETIZERS: 2 — Crispy Pork Belly & Bay Scallops, charred Loco Fields carrots, carrot puree, kale, spiced jus; 5 3— Ricotta Gnudi, Brussels sprouts, leeks, shallots, house lamb pancetta, honey mushrooms, sage brown butter ENTRÉES: 4 — Everspring Farms Duck Breast, braised duck & mascarpone crespelle, Loco Fields heirloom carrots & baby beets, kale, sour cherry duck jus 5 — Loco Fields Organic Sunchoke Agnolotti, Brussels sprouts, crispy prosciutto, hazelnuts, sunchoke chips, Niagara Vinegars baco noir reduction 6 — Pan Roasted Branzino, squash purée, ricotta gnocchi, Brussels sprouts, roasted squash 7 — Sous Vide Cauliflower “Steak,” beluga lentils, roasted fennel, charred red onion Brussels sprouts, fennel hot sauce, onion, thyme & white bean purée

6

7

Time will tell whether or not the charcuterie will become a staple.

(Although it’s hard to imagine that it won’t!) If it does, it will join an esteemed hall of other signature dishes like the grilled octopus, served with arugula, green olives, green beans, grape tomatoes with

№ 63 | January/February 2017

romesco sauce and salsa verde; and the beef tenderloin, served with crispy potato gnocchi, mushrooms, arugula, red onion, Loco Fields organic green beans and a red wine jus.

In the winter months, guests can expect hearty dishes that make use of root vegetables and braised meats. While these ingredients may sound like a predictable turn for the season, it’s the surprising and delectable ways that they are transformed that is uniquely Abruzzi.

Also growing in popularity are several vegan and vegetarian options. Abruzzi’s menu is versatile and special requests and dietary restrictions, including gluten-free options, are easily accommodated.

One dish that has patrons buzzing is the cauliflower steak sous vide, which is seasoned with a special rub then seared until it’s caramelized, before being served with beluga lentils, roasted fennel, charred red onion, Brussels sprouts, fennel hot sauce, onion, thyme and white bean purée.

The list of local producers that the restaurant works with can be reviewed on the Abruzzi website. At the time of publication, the list includes Loco Fields, Everspring Farms, Your Local Butcher Shoppe, Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, Organic Ocean, Blanbrook Bison Farm, Edesia Fine Foods and Arva Flour Mill.

If you’re looking for a location that infuses stories into Italian-inspired dishes, hosts a wine list for every palette, makes everything from scratch and believes that your experience is the restaurant’s raison d’être, you may consider giving Abruzzi a try.

Abruzzi Ristorante 119 King Street, London 519-675-9995 www.abruzzi.ca monday–saturday: 11:30am ’til late sunday: closed TANYA CHOPP is a storyteller and marketing professional.

Over the past decade, she has enjoyed crafting and amplifying meaningful communications across the arts, culture, entertainment, health, wellness, and technology industries.

STEVE GRIME is a frequent contributor to eatdrink.

See more of his photography and get contact info at www. grimesphoto.com..

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market

Saturdays, 9am–1pm, Jan. 14 to April 8 Our outdoor Farmers’ Market is back and has moved indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine.

We grow it, raise it, make it & bake it!

Also, we are offering FREE Cooking Classes from 11am-noon upstairs in the Market Kitchen. Outstanding local chefs demonstrate quick and tasty meals made with market-fresh ingredients!

There is also live music weekly from 10am-noon.

Chinese Lunar Festival February 18, 11am–4pm

Come celebrate the Chinese New Year and enjoy games, entertainment and good food.

FREE admission, on the Mezzanine Level.

18

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

culinary retail

Culinary Entrepreneur Dave Cook This Old East Village Champion is a key community catalyst

By BRYAN LAVERY | Photography by NICK LAVERY

L

ondon’s Old East Village has become an indie platform for hot trends in food, dining, artisanal crafts, music and entertainment. Culinary entrepreneur and Old East Village (OEV) champion Dave Cook is deemed to be among the key catalysts for this revitalization and renaissance.

Providing leadership in local food innovation and social enterprise, Cook’s company, The Artisan Group, owns and runs several cutting-edge OEV operations including the London Food Incubator, Fire Roasted Coffee Co., Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair (FAMWF), as well as being co-founder and stakeholder in the bean-to-bar chocolate company Habitual Chocolate and owner/operator of the seasonal Masonville Farmers’ Market.

Dave Cook launched The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2006

A Food Desert

In 2007, OEV was assessed as a food desert in a study co-authored by Dr. Jason Gilliland (HEAL & Department of Geography at Western and Old East Village Business

The London Food Incubator is on Dundas Street near Adelaide. The building houses a cafe, grocery store and space for small business start-ups

№ 63 | January/February 2017

Dave Cook surveys the progress at 874 Dundas Street (at Ontario), future home to a restaurant, craft beer pub and Fire Roasted Coffee Café.

ORDER EARLY FOR

VALENTINE’S DAY

Hey Cupcake! where art is a piece of cake

& YOUR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

With a whimsical and clever sense of taste and style, Hey Cupcake is a small, family-run business, creating the freshest and finest cookies, cupcakes and custom cakes, made in house, with tender loving care, just for you!

Improvement Association (OEVBIA) executive board member); it was later discovered in a follow-up analysis that the development of the FAMWF significantly raised the selection and availability of affordable foods in an area that had previously no access to healthy food choices.

Farmers’ markets perform a significant role in local economic development by facilitating a location for small business incubation and generating an economic multiplier effect by increasing the returns arising from the redistribution of new spending and consumer consumption within the community.

Maintaining his entrepreneurial vision, Cook established connections between food retailing, healthy food access and community economic development that he strategically leveraged. On the heels of his emerging success as one of Ontario’s finest independent specialty coffee roasters and farmers’ market operators, a paradigm

Visit us online at:

www.heycupcake.ca OR at our bakery located at: 275 Wharncliffe Rd. North, London

519-433-CAKE (2253)

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4

Southwestern Ontario’s Most Dynamic Destination for Outdoor Adventure!

Watch for Our New Chalet coming Nov. 2017!

519-657-8822

689 Griffith Street, London

www.bolermountain.com

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

shift gradually occurred and Cook evolved into a stalwart neighbourhood crusader, revitalizer and economic developer. What distinguishes Cook’s social enterprises is that their mission combines responsible forprofit business activities with social, environmental and community objectives.

The Fire Roasted Coffee Co.

Some scenes inside the Somerville Building, home to the Old East Village Grocer, The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. Café, and the London Food Incubator.

Launching The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2006, Cook roasted coffee beans in his garage before introducing Fire Roasted Coffee at a Saturday market stall at the FAMWF. Cook wanted independence from the corporate treadmill trajectory and eventually purchased the market operation from the original owner. This was the foundation of an entrepreneurial vision that manifested in Cook becoming a cutting-edge business leader and innovator of sequential concepts and business processes.

In a prime downtown heritage site known as the Wallace Building, at King and Talbot streets, Cook opened his flagship Fire Roasted Café in 2013 after a substantial renovation. This was followed by the opening of a satellite café in Wortley Village, which he has since franchised.

Cook continues to renovate the building at 874 Dundas Street (directly across from the FAMWF).

The repurposed premises are slated to become home to a restaurant, craft beer pub and Fire Roasted Coffee, offering a café with a patio on the west side of the building. Accompanied by his faithful bulldog Buck, Cook resides in a renovated second floor apartment above the storefront so he can maintain a close proximity to his projects.

Creating environments for social enterprise, Cook leverages his networks, expertise and interest in social justice to establish collaborations and socially-minded business practices. Fire Roasted Coffee has established direct trade with producing countries to benefit the growers in more meaningful ways.

Over the past decade, Cook has achieved success at the FAMWF.

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Dave Cook at home with his faithful bulldog Buck Much of that accomplishment has been based on internal collaborations with longtime vendors and enterprising business owners like Jeff Pastorius, co-owner of On the Move Organics, The Root Cellar and London Brewing Company, Luis Rivas of True Taco, Rick Peori of All ’Bout Cheese, Philippe Lehner of Habitual Chocolate and Yam Gurung of Momo’s at the Market.

In more recent years, the OEVBIA and its advisors have been working on an economic development plan to generate synergy and growth by kick-starting initiatives that capitalize on the success of the FAMWF as an informal food-business incubator and local agri-food hub.

The London Food Incubator

Recently, Cook established the London Food Incubator in the 14,000-square-foot Sommerville Building (formerly Somerville Paper Box Limited) at 630 Dundas Street.

Building on the strategy of developing an agri-food sector for the OEV retail strip, Cook refurbished and utilized the existing infrastructure for shared space. Culinary entrepreneurs are able to set-up and develop in much the same way vendors

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mitigated start-up risks and grew their food businesses at the FAMWF. In the initial stage, Cook has provided space for small business incubation and food start-ups, the Old East Village Grocer (OEVG), and The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. café and production facilities. This project was initiated in part by the need for new roasting and packaging facilities for Fire Roasted Coffee, which had outgrown its premises at the market.

The OEV Grocer is an independent grocery store that offers healthy and affordable food products, and doubles as a retail training space, providing customized training opportunities to persons with disabilities. The project received one of the first loans from Verge Capital, a London-based loan fund for social enterprises. It is a project of ATN Access Inc., a not-for-profit registered charity that provides opportunities for individuals with disabilities to gain access to employment, reach their educational goals, and improve the quality of their lives.

Businesses like Heather Pirsky’s Naturally Vegan, Kim Banma’s gluten-free bakery Urban Oven, and David Glen’s Glen Farms Herbs and Preserves jumped at the opportunity to set up shop in the London Food Incubator. Joining these start-ups is Meals on Wheels, a non-profit providing food education and a delivery hub where volunteers pick up hot meals and distribute them to hundreds of households across London.

If specific sets of traits are necessary to becoming a serial social entrepreneur and prospering as a visionary, risk tolerance, ambition and drive seem to be at the top of the list. You also need tenacity, intuition, and the ability to communicate your vision effectively. Cook is a creative problem solver, adventurer and a true polymath who has an innate ability to not only see the larger picture but recognize new and viable business opportunities.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.

NICK LAVERY is owner of Take5 Digital, a London-based video production company. Reach him at nick@t5digital.com.

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road trips

Looking for Romance?

Get away to Couples Resort in Muskoka SPONSORED BY

by JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

Girl Guide, this was some kind of Shangri-La for a Canadian looking for a break from the city without roughing it.

It is important to note that this is a resort for couples only — not for families, not for a girls’ getaway weekend, not for taking your great aunt or favourite schnauzer. It’s tables for two, where couples show up dressed for dinner which means a suit jacket and tie for men, a dress for women. While this may strike some as incongruent with a park-like setting, this is exactly how Couples Resort has unabashedly operated for decades. “It’s a great place for birthdays, anniversaries or for anyone looking for some time to reconnect with their partner,” says John Sorensen, second generation owner of the resort. “We have everything — all you need is time, two or three days is perfect, to be together.”

Photo courtesy of Couples Resort

I

s winter romance on your to-do list for Valentine’s Day? Celebrate your love and all things Canadian for the country’s 150th anniversary by spending your precious get-away time in our home and native land. Not much says Canada more than Algonquin Park. And here’s a tip — you don’t need to sleep in a tent or a paddle a canoe to experience it in style, with your special person.

Some call it glamping — glamour and camping. You can experience it year-round at Couples Resort at the eastern entrance to Algonquin Park in the village of Whitney, Ontario. Enjoy of the beauty of Algonquin then return to your own cabin or room, complete with private hot tub, sauna, steam shower and full service dining. Firewood is delivered to your door. Really, as a former

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lexusoflondon.com

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leave the resort there are seasonally appropriate activities including cross-country skiing, outdoor bonfires, indoor games room, trails, boating/fishing, biking, etc. Many prefer to simply rest in their cabin by the fire. For deeper relaxation there is an in house spa (by appointment). In season enjoy the outdoor swimming pool, and tennis and basketball courts.

In the dining room guests have a classic European style experience with a variety of offerings and daily specials for breakfast and dinner (lunch is not included but can be purchased). Eggs Benedict, cream cheese French toast and healthier options await. At dinner enjoy classic rack of lamb, Private cabins (top) that face the lake are one of the accommodations options. Cabins include in-room Jacuzzi tubs (left), steam showers, a sauna and an outdoor hot-tub, making for a cozy spa retreat. Relax by the in-room fireplace (below) after a day spent enjoying the outdoors.

The Resort is considered small in terms of classification. There are luxury cabins that face Galeairy Lake: ours had its own sauna, steam shower, indoor jacuzzi, on-deck exterior hot tub and steam shower, along with a natural wood burning fireplace, king size poster bed, two types of coffee makers and a bar fridge that was stocked with a filled ice bucket (nice touch). Breakfast can be delivered to your room. All guests sign up for a full hot breakfast and dinner as part of their stay. If you don’t want a cabin there are more traditional rooms in a hotel-like setting, with balconies. Some face the lake others look over the large property which includes its own hiking trail and art gallery.

Sorensen says the resort welcomes about 10,000 guests a year, with the peak in summer, although fall and Valentine’s are also busy. “We like to say it is Valentine’s Day every day here. We take care of people so they can have a good time.” Guests can use a complimentary park entrance pass if they wish to hike or experience Algonquin. If they prefer not to

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fish, steak, or pasta. All guests can select two appetizers, an entrée and dessert as part of the package. Executive chef Ronnie Coppens enjoys creating daily specials, which are a nice change of pace for couples staying for more than a few days. Couples Resort has an extensive wine list and is on the Wine Spectator accredited list.

Guests can also bring their own wine and have it served without a corkage fee.

This niche resort is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2017. It clearly has found its spot in the marketplace. It’s a five to six hour drive from London, depending on how many stops you want to make along the way. We enjoyed visiting Muskoka Brewery in Bracebridge and Muskoka Coffee in Huntsville along the trip.

Depending on the season, stops at the Park Visitor Centre and Logging Museum are well worth the time. As well, there are numerous day hikes for spectacular views.

Couples Resort 139 Galeairy Lake Road, Whitney ON 1-866-202-1179 www.couplesresort.ca JANE ANTONIAK and BRUCE FYFE are regular contributors of culinary travel stories to eatdrink. They were guests of Couples Resort, which did not review or approve the contents of this article.

Every table is a table for two at the Couples Resort.

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The BUZZ ... new and notable

C

hef Thomas Waite of boutique catering company The In Home Chef is anticipating opening Spruce on Wellington January 27th, in the premises formerly occupied by Willie’s Café. Waite promises that the restaurant will provide patrons with an innovative dining experience “unlike anything that London has seen before.” Waite will also launch a series of weekly cooking classes in early spring. The In Home Chef product lines currently available at Remark will be available for purchase at the new location. www.theinhomechef Approaching its 10th year, chef Paul Harding’s TOOK (The Only on King), with its fully realized farm-to-table philosophy, devoted acknowledgement of the local terroir, and support of local farmers and producers, ceased operations in November. Chef Harding has joined The Root Cellar crew as executive chef, and will be working closely alongside chefs Paul Paschink and Shayna Patterson. www.rootcellarorganic.ca Blu Duby owners Joe and Cheryl Duby have built a diverse and loyal clientele by combining an accessible menu and wine list with upbeat ambience. The Dubys have opened a second Blu Duby on Fanshawe Park Road just west of Wonderland Road. The new restaurant features the same great menu and service that you’ve come to expect from their downtown London location. www.bluduby.com The Tea Lounge recently opened at 268 Piccadilly Street. Patrons can experience exceptional quality, ethically-sourced teas from around the world. Enjoy contemporary or traditional style table service. Chinese ‘grandpa style’ is another option on offer, or you can simply get a quick cup to go. A selection of healthy snacks and baked goods by well-known local bakeries like Petit Paris, Boho Bakeshop and Bliss are

available to take with your tea, whether you’re in the mood for a tasty treat, wholesome ingredients, or have food sensitivities.www.beteas.com/tea-lounge/ One of our favourite diners closed last year. Toddle Inn opened with a simple menu and a large, horseshoeshaped counter in 1947. In the refurbished premises on Richmond Row is Renato Fucci’s Italian-inspired Renato’s. The restaurant is currently serving an allday breakfast and lunch with offerings featured on a blackboard menu. The menu features items with an Italian flair such as eggs carbonara, cannoli-stuffed French toast and tagliatelle with Bolognese. Now that their liquor licence is in place, Renato’s is open in the evenings with a dinner menu of Italian specialities.

Heather Pinsky’s Naturally Vegan Company is London’s newest vegan kitchen. Pinsky has been a vegetarian for over 36 years and vegan for the last seven years. She recently opened a lunch/catering/wholesale/ teaching kitchen at 630 Dundas Street in the London Food Incubator. Her focus is healthy and “yummy” vegan food with a particular focus on salads, sandwiches and sweets.www.naturallyvegancompany.com The upscale Wisdom Café, Teashop and Japanese Creperie in Old East Village offers over 130 loose leaf teas and a large selection of tea pots and accessories.

Unlike their French brethren, these savoury crepes are less sweet and are served in a cone shape for easy eating.

Try the Applewood smoked ham crepe with turkey melted cheddar and Brie.

Theo and Gerda Korthof have sold the Artisan Bakery in Old East Village to Paulette Elie. Kaleb and Richard Elie will carry on crafting mouth-watering breads and savoury meat pies. Assistant baker Anna Helmers will make, pastries, quiches and other products. The new

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Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market at the Western Fair and St. Jacobs Farmers’ Market in Kitchener. There will be updated hours at their retail location at 864 Dundas Street.

Shawn and Shannon Slade, owners of Booch Organic Kombucha, are specialists in the art and science of fermented foods. The current Booch brewing facility is not only being used for production, but as a retail outlet where kombucha can be purchased on tap and sampled at a tasting bar. Booch has popped up in about 175 retailers and restaurants in the past year. There are plans for expansion in the new year into a larger space. The present location would remain as a retail outlet. www.boochorganickombucha.com

Celebrating 5 years, The Springs Restaurant welcomes Chef Geoff Tew. Visit soon and try the new menu, featuring local Ontario Rack of Lamb, Ontario Pork Chop, Venison Carpaccio, and inspiring new vegetarian options.

The London Wine &Food Show returns January 19th -21st with more food, wine and entertainment than ever before. In its 12th year the show promises to bring Londoners an enticing mix of local restaurants, wineries, craft beers, and spirits. There will taste seminars, stage presentations and entertainment. Sip, sample and savour at London’s Wine & Food Show! www.westernfairdistrict. com/wine-food-show London Brewing Co-operative has expanded production and relocated to Burbrook Place in Old East Village. The new home of this worker-owned brewery includes a taproom, retail space, and a larger brewing system. LBC shares space here with On The Move Organics, a local organic food delivery company. The change facilitates opportunities for visitors to better understand the value of local ingredients and to taste the benefits that they bring to the beer and other products. www.londonbrewing.ca Pure Bon: A Food Shop opened in Wortley Village to raves in early December but, due to extensive damage caused by water and a collapsed ceiling, they had to close for repairs. Pure Bon is expected to resume operations and have its official Grand Opening in midJanuary. www.purebon.ca

Join Us for

Themed Dinner Nights in January

310 Springbank Drive, London 519.657.1100 www.thespringsrestaurant.com

Hand-crafted indulgence

VegFest 2016, held at the Western Fair District in London on November 5, had over 120 vendors and 7,000 attendees. www.vegfestlondon.com Felipe Gomes ceased Aroma Restaurant operations at the end of December. Gomes, who was unable to find a buyer for the 12-year-old landmark restaurant, said walking away from the business was a life or death decision for him. Gomes suffered a heart attack and underwent quadruple bypass surgery last year. We wish him good health and best wishes after his long successful run at Aroma.

Globally Local, billed as Canada’s first vegan fast food restaurant, has opened at 252 Dundas Street in downtown London, right across from the Central Public Library. James McInnes had success earlier this

Restaurant & Bar 226 658 0999 soloportstanley.com

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year when he developed the “Big McInnes,” a vegan interpretation of McDonald’s Big Mac, which he offered on the menu of his McVegans food truck and at local festivals. www.globallylocal.ca Cilantro Mediterranean Cuisine opened at 525 Richmond Street in mid-December, beside Black Trumpet. The sit-in or take-out offering includes Middle Eastern fare with items like shawarma, falafel, tabboulih, hummus and fattoush, as well as Italian-inspired dishes such as chicken parmesan. www.cilantrocuisine.ca

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 DINNER from 5pm daily 432 Richmond Street at Carling • London

www.davidsbistro.ca

London Training Centre is pleased to be offering a six-month culinary program that includes an 8-week work placement. Commencing in March, this interactive course will offer participants the opportunity to gain experience and fundamental and relevant skills and knowledge for a career in the hospitality industry. In the past seven years London Training Centre has developed a successful teaching model that integrates basic cooking techniques and knowledge with a broader, sustainable use of regional, seasonal products. The program will venture beyond the classic style of cuisine and explore a more intrinsic approach to the cooking. Along with receiving the combined theoretical and corresponding hands-on practical experience, the students will engage in open discussions with local food artisans, chefs and like-minded professionals to further enhance their experience. www.londontraining.on.ca !

The new 10Eighteen coffee bar in Old East Village specializes in hand crafted, fresh pour over coffee and espresso roasted by O’Joe. They offer something for everyone, including food, craft beer and wine. www.10eighteen.ca Andrew Fleet, Executive Director of Growing Chefs!

Ontario, has announced that the former Auberge Restaurant at King and Maitland will be the new home for the ground-breaking program that unites chefs, growers, educators and community members in children’s food education projects. The enclosed sunrooms, dining rooms and bar will be turned into teaching areas. Upstairs features an additional three intimate rooms that can be used for private functions, corporate meetings and teaching facilities. There are also plans to transform the outdoor terrace into a teaching garden. www.growingchefsontario.ca Your favourite new Ontario brewing companies of 2016, as polled by the Ontario Beverage Network, are Cowbell Brewing Co. (Blyth), Stray Dog Brewing Co. (Orleans) and Anderson Craft Ales (London). www.momandhops.ca

142 fullarton at richmond

Kiss the Cook owner Lawrence Burden’s passion is searching for the highest-quality kitchenware from around the world — and bringing it to your kitchen. Kiss the Cook provides a wide range of cookware, kitchen gadgets, and giftware, and offers a popular bridal registry. Chris

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Squire, who was also partly responsible for dreaming up the name Kiss the Cook, is Chef-in-Residence and, along with a variety of top-notch local chefs, offers cooking classes. www.kissthecookonline.com

Your love of all things Italian begins at

Luis Rivas and family continue to provide Latin flavour and ambience at the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at Western Fair and at True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino on Dundas Street near the Aeolian Hall. The cantina, with vibrant red walls and plenty of comfortable seating areas including a private room, is licensed. www. truetaco.com The Twisted Toque Social Grill, a Canadian-themed franchise restaurant pilot, is anticipated to open around Feb. 1st on the ground floor of the former Park Lane Hotel at 186 King St., in the space previously occupied by The Brass Door. Executive Chef David Taylor will feature a menu that will include such emblematic offerings as back bacon, poutine, East Coast cod and lobster, and West Coast salmon in the 110-seat restaurant.

Stratford Stratford Winterfest runs January 13–15. The goal is to provide families in our area with a high quality and fun winter weekend at no cost. Some of the events include Apple Land Train Rides, Ice Carving Demonstrations, Bethel Puppet Show, Big Screen Movie

GREAT FOOD IN THE HEART OF WORTLEY VILLAGE 162 Wortley Road, London ON N6C 3P7

info@plantmatterkitchen.com 519.660.3663

OPEN SUNDAY FOR DINNER & MON–SAT FOR LUNCH & DINNER

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

GOOD FOOD FIRST ORGANIC, VEGAN, DELICIOUS

BRUNCH, LUNCH, DINNER, DRINKS

plantmatterkitchen.com #PLANTMATTERKITCHEN

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Night, Snowshoeing, Petting Zoo, Pancake Breakfast, Outdoor Skating and Ice Building Blocks. www. stratfordwinterfest.ca There are lots of events for food lovers coming up in the next few months: Blues & Booze Tasting (January 14); The Hunter’s Feast at The Bruce (January 21); Local Beer & Cheese Pairing (January 28); Spanish Wine & Cheese Pairing (February 4); French Cheese and Wine Pairing (February 18). For details on these events and outstanding ideas for winter getaways, visit www. visitstratford.ca.

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table

Hormone & Drug-Free Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken THE VILLAGE MEAT SHOP LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR • Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb • Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken • Glengyle Farm Organics Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm

226-376-6328

•

www.thevillagemeatshop.ca

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During the Market Square redevelopment in Stratford, please continue to support the many great businesses in the area. During construction, Revel has a back door and you can enter via their patio. The George Street lot beside Raja is often empty and the parking meters offer longer term parking. Erie St through Allen’s Alley adds a few more paces to your day, providing the added benefit of exercise and fresh air, and as always Cooper Site has free parking.

Revival House will be closed for a seasonal break until January 27th except for private events. Stratford’s premiere live music, wedding and events venue re-opens for “StringBone presents LIVE at Revival House” series on January 27th with Samantha Martin + Delta Sugar. Other StringBone events include: February 24th with two- time Juno nominee Alysha Brilla, March 24th with The Small Glories and April 7th with Craig Cardiff. On February 12th, enjoy a Valentine’s Spring Quartet and on February 19th, the Sunday Brunch Concert Series restarts, with Stratford Symphony Orchestra. www.revival.house.ca Attend the 2nd Annual Revival House Craft Beer Festival on Saturday February 25th with food and beer pairings and live music. Meet and greet with brew masters and beer representatives from Ontario Craft Breweries including Black Swan Brewery, Railway City Brewery and Revival’s line up of 13 Craft Beer taps. A”Black Swan Brewery” Beer Dinner to follow the event. www.revival.house.ca The Stratford Chefs School invites you to explore International Inspirations as chef students interpret the culinary styles of renowned International chefs.

Courses are carefully paired with selected wines and are served at the new Stratford Chefs School Kitchens, 136 Ontario Street. The dinner series is offered Tuesday through Saturday January 10 through March 9. www. stratfordchef.com There are some new spirits to enjoy in Stratford.

Junction 56 Distillery is proudly local and following tradition while leveraging modern ideas to make unique and delicious products without shortcuts. Stop by on

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer serving London & Area with different and unique ideas Corporate www.heirloomcateringlondon.com

519-719-9030

Catering Specialists

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Saturdays at 11 a.m. for a tour and taste and purchase some local spirits to stock your home bar with some local flavour. www.junction56.ca

Around Our Region

Congratulations to the winners of the 2016 Ontario Tourism Awards of Excellence. Oxford County Cheese Trail has won the Ontario Culinary Tourism Leadership Award. In developing the Cheese Trail, Tourism Oxford worked with 23 partners to develop a guide for visitors to experience what the County has to offer. Each trail partner covers a specific need of visitors including dining, experiences, and accommodations, takeaway items to enjoy at home and, of course, cheeses. The partners have truly embraced the concept resulting in 20 new business relationships across Oxford County. Ingersoll Cheese & Agricultural Museum won the Top Small Museum in Ontario award, as voted by people in the first ever “Ontario’s Choice Award” contest conducted by Attractions Ontario.

Windsor Essex Pelee Island & EPIC Wineries won the Culinary Tourism Experience Award. As noted by The Hon. Eleanor McMahon (Minister of Tourism, Culture and Sport) in an address to the winners, “Your work to advance culinary tourism, develop exciting experiences, and innovative marketing plans help to attract visitors from all over the world to Ontario. Your successes

a Celebr

te

ine’s Valenaty!

D February

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Always Available for Caterings!

Closed January.

Reopening in February.

Reservations Recommended.

519.238.6224 42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend www.finearestaurant.com

Where fresh matters.

Visit us to sample over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics.

Experience savoury white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy paired with the freshest oils from across the globe.

Bottling fresh in store since 2012.

The

Pristine

live Tasting Bar

All Natural

•

Gluten Free

•

Non-GMO

•

Healthy

•

Delicious

462 Cheapside Street @ Maitland | London | 519-433-4444

www.thepristineolive.ca

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contribute to a dynamic tourism industry that stimulates our economy and has a positive impact on communities across the province.”

Thinking of a trip to wine country? It’s not just a warm weather activity. Snow will soon begin to blanket the vineyards, towns are being decorated for the holidays, wineries are bustling with activities and winemakers are anxiously waiting for the perfect temperature to harvest grapes for Icewine (-8°C). Wine Country Ontario’s website is a great place to start your planning. www. winecountryontario.ca.

CH UN R m Y B 2p DA1am− N SU 1

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Ontario’s craft spirit makers have been engaged in an uphill battle to amend archaic alcohol taxation laws and make operating a distillery in this province less difficult. In November 2016, Finance Minister Charles Sousa introduced a bill to revamp these tax laws, which includes a staggering new 61.5% sales tax for stores owned and operated by Ontario’s small and independent distilleries. The Ontario Craft Distillers Association (OCDA) calls the new tax “a major blow to the sustainability of distilleries working to provide Ontario farm-to-table, grain-to-glass spirits” and a move which they say “ignores the lessons of what works and what doesn’t from Ontario’s own wine and beer tax policy.”

Noting the accelerated growth in Ontario’s craft beer industry, the OCDA points to encouraging tax laws that helped make that possible, and asks why comparable measures can’t be introduced for distillers.

Earlier this year, Ontario made it illegal for employers to take employees’ tips and other gratuities, except in limited circumstances. Employers are not allowed to make deductions from tips for things like spillage, breakage, losses or damage. These rules affect employers and employees covered by the Employment Standards Act, 2000 in workplaces where tips and other gratuities are received — such as at bars, restaurants and catering businesses. www.labour.gov.on.ca/english/es/topics/tips.php

We want your

BUZZ! Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d like us to share? Every issue, eatdrink reaches more than 50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario in print, and thousands more online.

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca

Upbeat Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking

Delicious Love!

Valentine’s Day Feb. 13 & 14

bistro & caterer

Reservations Required

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com

www.eatdrink.ca

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eatdrink

2016 London Wine & Food Show

Profiles of Excellence SUPPLEMENT

Dark Horse Estate Winery

Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse

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eatdrink Profiles of Excellence

Bred for Taste

Dark Horse Estate Winery Grand Bend ON

DARK HORSE ESTATE WINERY is Huron County’s exciting new destination.

Opened in the summer of 2016, the 85-acre estate includes a 20-acre vineyard. The 31,000-square-foot winery is equipped with state-of-the-art winemaking technology and a guest area complete with an expansive full service banquet and conference space.

Located next door to the popular Huron Country Playhouse, this is another outstanding reason to visit Ontario’s West Coast.

17 Wines 3 Tiers Fruit forward and approachable wines. Care and concern is taken from vineyard to bottle to ensure the production of consistent and balanced wines true to variety and place.

A group of wines defined by their power of expression. The One Horse Town wines are often selected from the barrels and tanks that demonstrate great intensity and complexity offering an opportunity to experience concentrated and interesting wines at competitive price points.

The highest expression of Ontario’s best known varietals or blends. A group of wines for which no expense is spared. The ultimate expression of balance, complexity, depth and interest from DHEW. The lots of wines used in the final blends are selected from the best barrels and tanks to ensure exceptional quality and a consistent expression of style. These wines are only produced when the wines warrant it.

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink

Weddings & Events “A winery is more than just a place where wines are made.”

A range of wedding, private and corporate packages are available. The impressive Vineyard Ballroom can be enjoyed with small and larger groups, up to 300 guests.

The Cellar Reception Hall, another stunning space, can handle up to 80 guests. For more intimate gatherings, the Barrel Cellar provides an authentic winery experience for up to 25 guests. And the serene VIP Room, with its own patio, can be configured for up to 20 guests.

Wedding photo courtesy of BeanBot Photography

A winery is a place where memorable experiences are created that will last a lifetime. The picturesque countryside of Huron County is an idyllic backdrop. Add in a newly constructed premier facility — complete with fully-equipped banquet amenities — and the stage is set for an event for the ages. Dark Horse Estate Winery makes it all come together with superior service, and exceptional wines.

A dedicated team of professionals will orchestrate and execute a flawless event every step of the way.

Contact the Events Team to book your personal tour of this premier facility. info@darkhorseestatewinery.com

Wine Tours & Tastings Wine Tasting Daily 11am to close Wine by the Glass Daily 11am to close Public Wine Tours Daily 11am and 2pm* Private VIP Tours & Tastings by reservation Experience all that Dark Horse Estate Winery has to offer by becoming a member of the exclusive Wine Club.

* NOTE: For groups of 10 or more, reservations are required.

We are an event facility, so please call ahead to ensure Tours are running.

eatdrink Profiles of Excellence

Upcoming Events Discover Your Palate

Enjoy wine and food pairings as you tour around the winery.

Five food stations will be provided by: • Clock Tower Inn (Strathroy) • Eddington’s of Exeter (Exeter) • FINE: A Restaurant (Grand Bend) • Grind Café & Catering (Sarnia) • Luv Scarlet Catering (Exeter) Saturday, February 18, 2017

Winemaker’s Dinner

New Release Dates Under the One Horse Town label, Dark Horse Estate Winery is releasing two new wines in April, 2017:

2015 OHT Cabernet Franc

A special evening featuring Dark Horse Estate Wines paired with locally-sourced culinary delights. The four-course dinner complete with wine pairings is guaranteed to be a feast for your senses.

Saturday, March 4, 2017. Limited availability.

• Bright raspberry, floral, spice and toast

Murder Mystery Dinner

• Crisp and clean with peach and apple

aromas and flavours. Medium full with great structure and balance.

2016 OHT Pinot Grigio

aromas with peach, citrus and mineral flavours and a refreshing finish.

“Who did it?” will be fun to figure out, but there will be no question that the dinner and wine pairings will be delightful.

Saturday, May 6, 2017. Tickets on sale February 1.

Taste for Yourself At the Winery

Stop by the winery and pick up a bottle or a case! Just minutes away from the gorgeous shores of Lake Huron, enjoy the relaxing ambiance and discover what is new.

At the LCBO

As of March 2017, enjoy the convenience of buying Dark Horse products at the LCBO. Local stores, and select outlets across Southern Ontario, will be stocking BRASH, our White Blend, and SINFUL, our Red Blend. Two great wines from the province’s newest wine region.

Grand Bend Dark Horse Estate Winery

Order Online

You can now order Dark Horse wines through our website.

Prompt delivery is available anywhere in Ontario.

HOURS OF OPERATION

WINTER HOURS (October–May) Thursday–Sunday 11–6 SUMMER HOURS (June–Sept) Monday–Thursday 10-6* Friday & Saturday 10-9 Sundays & Holidays 11-5 * Closed Mondays in September

DARK HORSE ESTATE WINERY P.O. Box 460, 70665 B Line Grand Bend ON 519-238-5000 www.darkhorseestatewinery.com info@darkhorseestatewinery.com

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink

Eat & Drink at the Water’s Edge Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse SMACKWATER JACK’S TAPHOUSE offers a front row seat to one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world, but that sensational show is only part of the attraction.

Literally hanging over the water on Grand Bend’s River Road with a view of the mouth of the river opening into Lake Huron, an expansive two-tiered patio canopied by umbrellas and dotted with fresh flowers is the place to be — day and night — all summer (with propane torches tempering the nip in the air on either side of the warm weather). The interior presents its own charm as well. Once an old fish hut sitting vacant, the space has been refreshed and reinvigorated without losing its rustic allure and warm character.

Comfort by Design

With about three decades of experience as a home designer and builder, Brad Oke spotted the building and was not daunted by the project it presented.

“It was destiny,” he says. Inspired, he determined the best use of space and set to work. The roof was raised, floors re-poured, insulation added and two bar areas were delineated. The result is an atmosphere that is energetic and sophisticated but still comfortably beachside.

A 40-foot dock allows for easy entry to the restaurant from the water, but Oke identified a more critical access problem. Summer crowds can make parking a challenge, and to help ensure safe fun, Oke came up with a unique solution that has been widely praised and enjoyed by patrons since Day One in 2012. As you approach Smackwater Jack’s,

eatdrink Profiles of Excellence don’t be alarmed by the ominous presence of a big white ambulance. Its days of medical emergencies are over. Oke purchased the decommissioned vehicle and turned it into a “patron transfer service,” now known affectionately as the Smackulance, so that customers may have safe transport. Pick-ups can be arranged by phone and at the end of their visit guests are dropped off at their doorsteps, for free, anywhere across the Grand Bend area and up to Port Franks. This shuttle service proved so popular that a second vehicle was brought on board.

The Smackulance — a decommissioned ambulance that serves as a fun and free customer shuttle vehicle.

A Local Kitchen

Chef Jill St-Amour takes inspiration from the One could argue that Smackwater Jack’s success has local ingredients with been fuelled by a commit­ a seasonally-inspired ment to quality food and menu. Everything is made service as much as any from scratch on site, with other factor. Communityquality and presentation minded Brad Oke, who upheld as kitchen now shares ownership hallmarks. Expect locallyand operational oversight smoked charcuterie with his son Andy Oke, with pickled veggies established relationships and preserves, as well as with outstanding local great steaks and a variety producers right from the of innovative burgers, get-go. Seasonal produce sandwiches, pastas and comes in as soon as it’s salads. And don’t forget available. Beef comes from Chef Jill St-Amour (centre) hams things up with her excited crew after Smackwater Jack’s won “Best Food Booth” at the Smack’s Famous Fish & Metzger’s, pork from The 2016 London Wine & Food Show.

Chips! There is something Whole Pig, turkey from for everyone, including a sure-to-please Kids Menu.

Hayter’s Farm, all just up the road.

Canada Craft on Draft

Enjoy a wide assortment of craft, domestic and imported beers, on draft and by the bottle, including two unique varieties found only at Smackwater Jack’s. “Smack Attack” and “Just Joe” are custom concoctions brewed exclusively for the restaurant by the Stratford Brewing

Co. (Smack Attack is the secret ingredient in the Taphouse’s much-loved Poutine gravy!)

Fans of local beers will be well satisfied. All 18 Smack taps are dedicated to Ontario craft beers, with another one delivering fresh Ontario cider. With over 100 beers available in total, you’ll also find an impressive selection of domestic beers and classic imports. Cider is also on tap, as well as available in bottles or cans.

The wine list includes a variety of Ontario vintages by the glass or the bottle —and even two on tap! — augmented by some popular imports.

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink

Expect More at Smackwater Jack’s!

Live entertainment has also helped Smackwater Jack’s become Grand Bend’s go-to restaurant and bar. Crowd-pleasing local talent frequently takes the stage, adding another layer to the warm feeling of community.

Playhouse patrons are eligible for meal discounts, so ask about the Theatre Club Card.

Reservations, particularly in the summer, are highly recommended.

HOURS OF OPERATION WINTER HOURS After Seasonal Break, Reopening Fri, Feb 10 SUMMER HOURS Monday–Thursday 11:30–9* Friday & Saturday 11:30–10 Sundays 11:30–9

SMACKWATER JACK’S TAPHOUSE 71 River Road, Grand Bend ON 519-238-5556 www.smackwaterjacks.ca info@smackwaterjacks.ca

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

BEER MATTERS beer matters

Brewing Magic in London Anderson Craft Ales adds to the ambience in Old East Village

By WAYNE NEWTON

W

hat happens when a new brewery moves into an old neighbourhood?

Magic.

Anderson Craft Ales, which brewed its first batch last summer, has already become another good reason to explore London’s Old East Village.

Located in a former industrial building on Elias Street, Anderson was started with two beer recipes and the goal of helping to make the neighbourhood a hip destination.“We would love to help shape tourism in London by encouraging people to spend time in the OEV,” said Aynsley Anderson, who handles special events and social media. “There are already great places to eat, grab coffee and shop. We can help round that out, with the city’s help, to create an environment with character and connectivity that people want to hang out in.”

Aynsley’s brother, Gavin, is the brew­ master. His brewing journey started more than a decade ago when he was a 19-year-

old home brewer, and included stops at craft breweries in Kentucky and the Maritimes.

He has a PhD in microbiology, meaning he’s well equipped to understand the science of brewing. Dad Jim is a director of the company, and has been known to pitch in with any task from bartending to, as Aynsley says, “ideas man.”

The first two beers to be launched were Anderson IPA and Anderson Amber.

Brewing an India Pale Ale is de rigueur in the craft beer world, but Anderson choose to go a less-hoppy, more accessible route for its recipe, compared with many other craft brewers. Recommended pairings include big, bold spicy foods like fajitas. Anderson Amber, with its notes of caramel and toffee, has broad appeal as a beer to pair with anything from seafood to pizza or grilled cheese.

Having tips on which beer to pair with what food comes in handy on Friday nights, when Anderson hosts food trucks at the brewery, featuring COCOVille Caribbean and a different guest truck each week.

Continued on page 42 ...

Brewmaster Gavin Anderson behind the bar, the focus of Anderson Craft Ale’s retail operation.

Special Wine & Food Show Draw!

DOUBLE PRIZE PACKAGE

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!

2017

ONE NIGHT + BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER! ted by Presen

PRIZE PACKAGE includes use of a Lexus vehicle for a 3-day weekend and detailing (cleaning, rejuvenating) of your own vehicle by LEXUS OF LONDON + an overnight stay at London’s WINDERMERE MANOR, with breakfast, lunch & dinner at RESTAURANT NINETY ONE!

eatdrink

Enter at the show or online at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag Contest ends February 23 , 2017. Complete details online.

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№ 63 | January/February 2017

Grab a sample or a pint and stay awhile, or purchase growlers and cans to go.

Enjoy a game or conversation upstairs in a communal space that overlooks the brewing operation.

Continued from page 40 ...

dark bar by yourself. It is important to us to maintain a family-friendly environment, and encourage people to come and meet friends, family or work colleagues in a setting where they can have a beer, but also just relax and socialize.”

Anderson quickly added to its roster of beers. While the core brand IPA and amber are always available at the brewery store, there is also a constant rotation of seasonals. On the board last fall were a brown, a cream ale, a winter ale, and a Stout Cask Series of four different stouts released on four consecutive Saturdays. In 2017, more seasonal brews are coming as well as cask series releases.

The neighbourhood may soon be known as London’s Beer District, once London Brewing Co-operative completes construction just a twominute walk from Anderson in

Anderson has organized the Beer Run Club on Wednesdays, and other special events have included fundraiser and awareness nights for causes as diverse as men’s health and Paws United Dog Rescue.

“We love having different activities because we love the social aspect of drinking and appreciating craft beer,” Aynsley said.

“Drinking beer doesn’t have to be done in a

The brewhouse gleams with its state-of-the-art brewing and canning equipment.

Selected in

TOP 10 Beer Bars in Canada

№ 63 | January/February 2017

another part of the former industrial cluster of buildings. Having LBC as a neighbour along with places such as the Junction Climbing Centre adds to the cool factor, Gavin and Aynsley said.

“Just because it’s a light industrial area doesn’t mean we can’t be pedestrianfriendly and encourage foot traffic between us, the businesses on Dundas, Boyle Community Park and LBC,” Aynsley said.

“We’re seeing it happen organically. Many of our customers arrive on foot or bike. Many will also seek us out to spend the day —

2017 NEW YEAR

NEW BREWS! coming soon: • The Strong Man • Maple Bock

NEW TAPROOM, FOOD MENU, RETAIL STORE, TOURS, TASTINGS Railway City B r e w i n g C o .

130 Edward Street, St. Thomas, Ontario 519 - 631 - 1881 • railwaycitybrewing.com  Railwaycity  Railwaycity  RailwaycityBrewing

climbing next door at Junction, then having a couple of beers, then heading to True Taco for dinner, for example.”

Anderson beers can be enjoyed at an on-site bar, where take-home growlers can also be filled. Cans are 355 mL. Flagship Beers Anderson IPA Anderson Amber

ASK for ANDERSON

Precision and attention to detail are key to delivering consistent handcrafted premium beers.

Available in cans at the brewery store and in cans or on tap at various pubs from Windsor to Guelph.

Anderson Craft Ales 1030 Elias St., London 519-253-9440 andersoncraftales.ca WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London who enjoys writing about beer and travel.

We’re looking forward to meeting more of London in 2017!

Our beer is available in cans or growlers to go, and we also have a tap room for sampling, tours, and private events. Come see us today!

1030 Elias Street, London andersoncraftales.ca

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wine

Getting it Right Jamie Quai, of Quai du Vin Estate Winery

By GARY KILLOPS

T

he 12th Annual London Wine & Food Show returns to the Metroland Media Agriplex at the Western Fair District on January 19th for three days of wine, beer, spirits and epicurean plates.

Ontario has been growing steadily as a culinary destination and this event will showcase, among others, the wineries, breweries, restaurants and chefs who support local and purchase from area farmers.

“The London Wine and Food Show is an amazing event! We have been proud to pour Quai Du Vin offers traditional reds and whites, as well our wines there since the very first year,” as fruit wines, sparkling cocktails, sparkling wines, said Jamie Quai, winemaker at Quai du Vin icewines, maple wines and wine jellies.

Estate Winery, a 22-acre vineyard and winery located 30 minutes south of London. second to be named from a vineyard outside Quai went on to say, “My favourite thing of Niagara. about the show (and other vendors have said “My wife, kids and I are attending events the same thing) is that the those attending are all over Ontario for the 12 months of my time just more interested in what you are doing. You as the Grape King. I’m presenting an award can connect with people. Some of the other at Cuvée this March, bringing greetings at shows out there (while great) don’t seem to the Icewine Festival in January, new vintages linger as much in the minds of the guests after celebrations in the spring; there is always they’ve left. London seems different.” something upcoming.”

The Grape Growers of Ontario selected This year the Niagara Icewine Festival falls Jamie Quai as the 2016 Grape King, an on the same weekend as the London Wine ambassador for all grape growers in Ontario. &Food Show, so due to his commitments Jamie is the 61st Grape King and only the Jamie will not be able to attend the London show. Further Jamie’s sister, who runs the winery’s retail end, is on maternity leave.

“We decided that rather than phone Jamie Quai it in, so to speak, we would take a year off and return refreshed in 2018.

We absolutely love the show and wish we could have done it justice this year.”

Show organizers describe the London Wine & Food Show as an enticing mix of local restaurants, wineries, craft beers and spirits paired with tasting seminars, stage presentations and entertainment. There is something for everyone to sip, sample and savour!

№ 63 | January/February 2017

Q & A with Jamie Quai How did you get your start in wine making?

It’s a family business, so my start in the industry was as a child doing farm kid things like pruning, tying, trellising, and training.

The way all people all should start — in the vines. My start in winemaking came as a natural extension to the growing side of the business. Helping wash tanks, slugging hoses. The first wine I can remember making substantive contributions to, as a professional, was our 2004 Baco Noir.

I remember making a few tweaks to the cellar timelines that led to a really nice wine.

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we are” and entering the age of “Here’s what we are not.”

New players are coming in with a drive to focus on producing the best select wines (i.e. pinot noir and chardonnay). That was almost unheard of 15 years ago. I see the next 15 years as a tightening of that regional stylistic focus, with stronger, more select portfolios.

I also think that, even with climate change, there is going to be a stylistic tightening up

Who were your mentors?

My parents are the biggest influence. They founded and have run a very successful winery for almost three decades. I still turn to them for mentoring.

There are instructors from my time at CCOVI (Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute) at Brock University

between vintages. As the vines mature, the variability from one year to the next will smooth out. I’m noticing in my own production that there is a consistency in quality over the last few years that only comes from older vines. I think the industry will see that overall.

Jamie Quai was chosen by the Grape Growers of Ontario as the 2016/17 Grape King. Jamie Slingerland (right), from Niagara-on-the-Lake, was last year’s Grape King. that I would definitely consider mentors, as well as classmates/friends who have gone on to push themselves professionally.

There were several successful winemakers I’ve been fortunate enough to work for who shaped my development: Jason James (now at Stoney Ridge, in BC), Rob Powers (Creekside Estate Winery, Niagara) and Craig MacDonald (Trius Winery, Niagara).

What do you see for the future of Ontario wine?

I’m convinced that the Ontario wine industry is leaving the age of “Here’s what

What do you like most about the Ontario wine industry?

There is still an opportunity to find that great piece of land, and possibly build that really strong brand. Places like Napa or Burgundy have been thoroughly dissected and the best parts identified. Not here, not yet.

It’s not a matter of drive or ambition. It just will take time for those places to shine.

I like the prospector feeling of the modern industry, and being wowed when someone really gets it right.

Quai Du Vin Estate Winery 45811 Fruitridge Line, St Thomas 519-775-2216 www.quaiduvin.com GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who loves to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

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spirits

A Focus on Craft Four Niagara Region Distillers of Note

By BILL WITTUR

A

s we welcome 2017 — Canada’s 150th birthday — into our lives, we wanted to look at some of Ontario’s craft spirits producers, both new and well-established, to get into the spirit of this

important celebration.

Focussing on the Niagara Region, here are four distilleries worth your attention.

Still Waters Distillery

Still Waters Distillery, located in Concord, is one of the oldest micro-distillers in Ontario. It’s owned by Barry Stein and Barry Bernstein, whose focus has always been on traditional whisky. This is tough when you’re a new business because you have to wait a minimum three years before you can sell anything.

The early days for “The Barrys” were a challenge because the rules were tilted towards large producers.

Their business plans became a template on the tongue. Blue for regulators Blend shows more rye when dealing characteristics. The rye with other new base results in a spicier distillers in note and taste. There Ontario. is a touch of fruit and They’ve caramel. The brewers weathered recommend enjoying the storm and their products straight Still Waters up. Prices and LCBO will celebrate Barry Stein and Barry Bernstein product numbers are its ninth year not available yet, but of production you can reserve your bottles by visiting with the launch of Stalk and Barrel Red Blend and stillwatersdistillery.com.

Blue Blend labels. The Red is malt dominant and slightly sweeter, with hints of granola and chocolate

Trafalgar Distillery

2017 will be an important transition year for the owners of Trafalgar Distillery in Oakville. Jeff and Eric Dornan, the owners and producers of All or Nothing Brewhouse, started making craft beers in 1993. The distillery was added in 2013. They are now shifting the focus of production to a narrower range of higher quality products, including beer, mead and spirits. The Dornan brothers are experimenting with

№ 63 | January/February 2017

Authentic + Tasty Creole + Cajun

London’s New Orleans Vibe

Daily Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Desserts Live Music • Cooking Classes Corporate Events • Team Building

different cask sizes and wood types to create a signature product that they can call their own.

They will continue to sell their delicious flavoured moonshine products at their Oakville location. All of their spirits are based on corn, but they have started working with other grains as well, including traditional rye and malt for quality whiskies.

While these products are a few years away, you can taste their potential in the Baked Apple Shine (like liquid apple pie) and the Toffee Shine, which I recommend for a variation on the classic hot toddy. www.facebook.com/AllornothingBH/

ntine’s ur Vale Book Yoate NOW! D

519.667.2000

www.bourbonstreetlondon.ca 587 Oxford Street, London

Bred for Taste We’ve created a best-in-class winery that’s a true destination experience and craft wines that are unmistakably bred for taste.

Enjoy our daily wine tours and tasting or visit us to plan your wedding, corporate or private gathering at our exceptional event venue.

70665 B Line, Grand Bend | 519-238-5000 | darkhorseestatewinery.com

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Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers

Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers can be found in Beamsville, on the Niagara wine route. Jeff Dillon leveraged a number of factors to his advantage —a career in the financial sector, a father who is passionate about whisky, and a great location. He also evolved an incredible branding strategy.

As a member of the American Distilling Institute, he’s witnessed the massive growth of craft production in the US and wants to help lead the market in Canada.

Dillon’s focuses on spirits (rye, vodka, gin) and complimenting bitters. But it also produces, either regularly or occasionally, absinthe, vermouth, eauxde-vie, vermouth (available only through Vintages), and more.

For Canada’s 150th Dillon’s has introduced its first single cask rye whisky, released in December 2016.

This whisky is 100% pure Ontario rye and is pot distilled.

Many Dillon’s product can be purchased at the LCBO, but it’s worth the trip to Beamsville to check it out. www.dillons.ca

Polonée Distillery

Polonée is another relative newcomer in the Ontario craft spirits scene, based in St. Catharines.

The distillery was started in 2013 by Adam and Patricia Szymkow. They produce everything in small batches, paying attention to all details to ensure a quality product.

The signature Kannuk Vodka is handcrafted in a way to shout out about Canada’s diverse culture: it is distilled from corn to represent its North American origin; wheat for its European essence; sweet potato (which is unique

Adam Szymkow

Geoff Dillon

for a vodka) for its Caribbean and South American vibe; and wild rice for its Asian and African influence.

The result is a perfect mosaic of inputs yielding an exceptional vodka.

All bottles are sealed with a toasted maple wood top that gives the vodka a light brown hue. No colouring or dye is used to get this unique finish.

Plans for Canada’s 150th are still under wraps, but the Szymkows recommend you enjoy their Kannuk vodka today with sparkling water and a slice of cucumber. Kannuk can be purchased at the distillery. www.polonee.com BILL WITTUR loves discovering new producers and is the owner and operator of Drinky.ca.

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the classical beat

Young Talent Shines Bright

By NICOLE LAIDLER

I

t may be the dead of winter, but local talent will be shining bright on stages across our region this January and February.

London’s least conventional classical ensemble, the Rebelheart Collective, presents its second concert at Aeolian Hall, January 21, with a program of music by Bartok, Haydn, Mozart and Mussorgsky.

At the core of the ensemble are four of Canada’s top string players — Scott St. John, violin; Sharon Wei, viola; Thomas Wiebe, cello; and Erika Raum violin. Throw in a group of graduate-level music students and add the children of Aeolian’s El Sistema program. Eliminate the conductor and give half the tickets away for free. Then wrap the concert into a series that also includes a performance by the Vienna Boys Choir (March 8) and an evening with Clark Bryan and Marion Miller (April 8).

It’s a model that’s so crazy, it just might work. “It’s an experiment. An attempt to make classical music in London accessible to people who might otherwise not be able to come to a concert,” says Aeolian’s Clark Bryan, who founded the El Sistema youth program five years ago.

“These kids are reaching for the stars,” he says. “They are already at a level where they

Cameron Crozman

The Rebelheart Collective, clockwise from top left: Scott St. John, Sharon Wei, Tom Wiebe & Erika Raum can play with professional musicians. It’s something I’m very passionate about.” www.aeolianhall.ca At only 21 years old, cellist Cameron Crozman is another young Londoner who is reaching for the stars. In fact, he’s already making a name for himself on stages across Europe and North America.

Currently studying at the Paris Conservatoire, he returns home to join forces with Montreal-based pianist Philip Chiu for a concert of British and French music, February 4 at Wolf Performance Hall.

“The idea is to show how 20th-century composers in England and France were turning to traditional and folk music for inspiration,” says Crozman.

Both musicians are recent winners of prestigious awards. Crozman performs on the $12 Phillip Chiu ­million Bonjour Stradivarius cello

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and Shawn Adam cello bow — both on loan from the Canada Council’s Instrument Bank. Chiu won the 2015/16 Prix Goyer, Canada’s largest prize for an emerging classical artist.

The concert is the first in a three-part mini-series of London artists, presented

by The Jeffery Concerts. www.jefferyconcerts.com The following day, two members of the London Youth Symphony step into the spotlight at Dundas Street Centre United Adam Iannetta Church. The February 5 concert features 15-yearold cellist Sarah Cupit performing Strauss’ Romanze and 17-year-old French Horn player, Jennifer Bywaters, playing Weber’s Concertino in E. A student of Ron George and Kate Stone, Bywaters will be continuing her studies in Europe next year, says LYS manager, Joan Mortimer. “She is one of the most dedicated young musicians I have seen.”

Watching young musicians like Cupit and Bywaters develop is a very rewarding experience, Mortimer says. “Even players who won’t go on to become professional musicians will have a passion for music that will stay with them for the rest of their lives,” she notes. www.londonyouthsymphony.org Students at UWOpera are gearing up for their winter production. Mozart’s The Anne Lederman Magic Flute runs January 27 & 8 and February 3, 4 & 5 at the Paul Davenport Theatre.

The two-act ‘Singspiel’ tells the story of Tamino, a prince who must undergo a series of tests, accompanied by his sidekick Papageno, in order to marry the princess Pamina. Premiered in 1791 in Vienna, just two months before the composer’s death, it has become one of the world’s mostbeloved operas.

№ 63 | January/February 2017

Windsor native and Western DMA student Adam Iannetta is taking on the role of assistant director for this production. “The music program here at Western does a fantastic job of offering students experiences and opportunities that can lead you in so many different directions, not just being on stage but behind the scenes as well,” he says. www.music. uwo.ca/events/opera.html The Stratford Symphony Orchestra welcomes the New Year with its annual Celtic Celebration, January 28 at Knox Presbyterian Church.

This year’s guest artist is Canadian Metis fiddler Anne Lederman, who will be performing her own arrangements of Metis fiddle tunes and Celtic music from the British Isles.

The orchestra will also play selections from Leroy Anderson’s “Irish Suite”, arrangements of music from Michael Flatley’s “River Dance Suite” and “Lord of the Dance”, as well as an arrangement of Celtic music by Canadian composer Chris Meyer.

Recitations of poetry by Robbie Burns, and the sounds of the Stratford Police Pipe Band round out the program.

“We have a longstanding relationship with the Stratford Police Pipe and Drums,” says SSO office manager, David Murray, adding: “One couldn’t imagine a Celtic concert without hearing ‘Highland Cathedral.” www.stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca NICOLE LAIDLER is a former classical musician who has been writing about London’s cultural scene for more than a decade. To see what else she’s been up to visit www.spilledink.ca

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various musical notes

Let It Snow Winter concerts to keep you warm

By GERRY BLACKWELL

T

he snow is snowing, the wind is blowing but, hey, we can weather the storm. We’ve got music to keep us warm. Mighty fine music too.

On Sunday, January 15, American country star Lee Ann Womack plays the Chatham Capitol Theatre in Chatham ($40-$60).

Womack has been compared to Dolly Parton and Tammy Wynette: a traditionalist, but with a contemporary twist. She wowed them in a televised appearance at the 2016 AmericanFest, the Americana Music Association’s annual shindig.

If trad jazz is more your style, catch the Uptown Dixieland Jazz Band, also January 15. They’re at the Shrine Centre Hall on Colborne Street, courtesy of the London Jazz Society ($6 members/$12 non-members).

The Uptowners are a lot of fun, and can really cut loose. Next up in the LJS series: the Ken Foster Quartet on Sunday, February 12.

Then crank up the excitement: the Sam Roberts Band is coming to London Music Hall — Saturday, January 21 ($43.50). SRB has a new record, Terraforming, with a sci-fi theme. Terraforming (say what?), the subject of the title track, is the idea of going to another planet and making it habitable for humans — perhaps not your usual indierock fodder, but intriguing.

Jazz for the People continues its 30-plusyears run of free Wednesday night concerts

Sam Roberts Band

Lee Ann Womack on January 25 and then again February 22 at Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library).

Performers to be announced. But the price is right, and the quality always high. You really can’t go wrong.

Phenomenal finger-style folk guitarist Don Ross is at the Aeolian on Friday, January 27 ($25/$30). Ross has been making records since 1989, plays like a wizard, wins awards, but still flies under the radar — except among hardcore guitar fans. They revere him.

Or here’s a cool idea for Don Ross a cold Friday night: drive over to Stratford to the Revival House for a dinner-concert.

They’ve got Samantha Martin & Delta Sugar on January 27.

The soulful, whiskey-voiced Martin, a multiple Maple Blues Awards nominee, is based in Toronto but channels the Mississippi

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Mike Murley Trio

Samantha Martin Delta. Concert only, $25; concert plus prix fixe dinner, $34.99. Sounds like a deal.

Back to Chatham. The Capitol has a pair of early-February concerts to entice in-theknow fans. Singer-songwriter-record producer Marc Jordan, who has written for the likes of Diana Ross, Rod Stewart and Cher, will be there Thursday, February 2 ($30). And on Saturday, February 4, it’s alt-rockers The Tea Party ($40-$50).

They’re on tour celebrating the 20th anniversary of their hit CD, Transition. The Party will also be at London Music Hall, Tuesday, February 21 ($30).

Sunfest’s World Us The Duo Music & Jazz Series continues with the Juno Award-winning Mike Murley Trio at Aeolian Hall on January 28 ($25), offering their lyrical take on jazz standards. The Michael Kaeshammer Sextet plays on Thursday, February 9 ($35/$40). Germanborn Kaeshammer emigrated to Canada as a teenager in the 90s and almost immediately became a fixture on the jazz scene here. Always a phenomenal boogiewoogie piano player, he also writes and sings now, most often trad jazz style. Michael is touring a new album, No Filter.

London Music Harry Manx Hall has folk-pop outfit Us The Duo

on Friday, February 10 ($25). Interesting back story: the husband and wife duo are credited with being the first music act to win a record deal by amassing a huge following on shortform video sharing site, Vine. The music?

Sweet, infectious, engaging.

Acoustic blues man Harry Manx is at Aeolian February 10 ($40/$45). Manx plays a unique mash-up of Delta blues inflected with classical Indian. His signature instrument, the Mohan veena, is a 20-stringed modified Hawaiian guitar invented by Vishwa Mohan Bhatt. Manx studied with Bhatt in India. Hence his 2015 album: 20 Strings And The Truth. The man’s an o ­ riginal.

Roots music super group Essig Taylor Gifford Miron are at the London Music Club Saturday, February 11 ($15/$20).

Front man David Essig is a Canadian folk legend. Rick Taylor is the prodigal Londoner who came home recently after years away on the road. London festival-goers know him these days as a raucous solo blues man, but he started as a finger-style guitarist.

Should be a dynamite show.

Happy Valentines, London! Blue Rodeo is coming to the RBC Theatre at Budweiser Gardens, Tuesday, February 14 ($36.50-$61.50). Can’t quite place these guys? Check out this CBC Music Backstage Pass (goo.gl/imF4Li). It focuses on the October release of Rodeo’s new album, 1000 Arms, which they’re now touring.

Ladysmith Black Mambazo bring their joyous, intricate rhythms Michael Kaeshammer

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and harmonies World Music Series Sponsor of South Africa & Jazz Series 2016 - 17 to London www.sunfest.on.ca Music Hall New CD on February “No Filter” 16 ($55).

Founder Joseph Shabalala has MIKE MURLEY TRIO Murley (sax); led the group for Reg SchwagerMike (guitar); Steve Wallace (bass) MICHAEL KAESHAMMER eacher Flyer (2016) Saturday, January 28 over 50 years, SEXTET h (Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS) recording with Thursday, February 9 a wideaccepting range of nced piano/theory teacher now new students into professional music international e, active musician, established in the stars, most notably with Paul Simon on community Graceland, and the group won the World ual instruction Direct from South Africa Music Grammy in 2013.

Four-time Grammy Award Winners rounding to have ofa music for life / lifelong gift of music March comesgift in like lion, with Matthew LADYSMITH Three-time Latin Jazz Artist of the Year Good at environment the London Music home-based BLACK MAMBAZO Nominee at the Canadian Jazz Awards Thursday, February 16 AMANDA MARTINEZ on Friday the 3rd ($32.75). north Hall location, convenient to bus routes London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave Saturday, February 25 Long a solo performer Tickets at londonmusichall.com sionate, nurturing, gentle, encouraging, understanding afterkind, years caring, fronting The All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St., London MatthewExam Good Band, onservatory Preparation Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long & McQuade North, he’s now touring his Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca ty Piano Proficiency December 2016 EP, Preparation Miss New Wave: on Street Beautiful Midnight -4022Revisited. It features new recordings of songs from MGB’s iconic 1999 album, Michelle Beautiful Midnight.

Wright The month continues strong with a homecoming concert

by Chatham-Kent’s country darling Michelle Wright.

That’s on Friday, March 10 at the Capitol in Chatham ($45$65). This is a rare concert on home turf for one of Canada’s all-time great country stars.

See, winter ain’t so bad.

Ladysmith Black Mambazo

Develop skills & a love for music

PIANO LESSONS

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance writer.

Matthew Good

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher

now accepting new students Individual Instruction for All Ages Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging Home-based Professional Music Studio Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation University Piano Proficiency Preparation

Beth Hickey, BA (MUS) North London bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

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theatre

Theater in Winter Some Joy, Some Madness, and More

By JANE ANTONIAK

L

ooking for an escape from the dark winter nights? Getting a bit of cabin fever? Then consider a night out being entertained by live theatre.

Kick off 2017 and beat the winter blues, challenge your mind and support the arts in our area.

To set the mood for 2017 comes Reefer Madness from the King’s Players at King’s University College. While Canadians contemplate legalized marijuana this is a hilarious look at how marijuana use was regarded in decades past. This is a live musical version of the 1936 film of the same name. The Players are alerting the audience that this is a “highly stylized and satirical political commentary that contains adult humour, religious parody, drug use as well as suggested violence and sexual explicitness — inappropriate for younger audiences.” Reefer Madness runs from January 25–28th in the Joanne and Peter Kenny Theatre at King’s University College.

This is a large cast production with a nine-piece jazz band.

The Grand Theatre in London presents Lions in Winter January 10th to 28th. This drama about the life of Henry II

promises to intrigue fans of Game of Thrones and House of Cards in a bizarre Christmas setting.

The play takes the audience back in time, 800 years, as Henry and his wife battle for power.

Directed by Krista Jackson, who asks the question, “what shall we hang ... the holly or each other?”

In February, The Grand lightens up the mood with the Tony Award-Winning Best Play, Art. It runs from February 21st to March 11th. Originally a French play, it was translated into English and wowed theatregoers in London’s West End and Broadway. This introspective

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discussion — what is art? and is beauty truly in the eye of the beholder? — makes a rare appearance in Southwestern Ontario.

The Imperial Theatre in downtown Sarnia presents Willow Quartet January 27th to February 4th. While it sounds like a musical event, this play is about unresolved grief and love. The theatre is located near the fabulous Lola’s Lounge restaurant, a great place for a post-theatre drink and discussion.

Joan Burrows Willow Quartet, directed by Jay Peckham, runs at Sarnia’s Imperial Theatre January 27–February 4

PortStanley FestivalTheatre

2S E017 ASON CALL 519.782.4353 portstanleytheatre.ca SPONSORED BY

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The Port Stanley Festival Theatre runs a winter program and will warm your soul with some Billy Joel on January 14th (two shows). Billy Joel and the Piano Men, starring Bruce Tournay as Joel, is a romp through the 1970s and ’80s and includes performances of songs by Elton John, Burton Cummings and more.

If the ’50s and ’60s are more your style, Port Stanley Festival Theatre heats things up for Valentine’s Day with Buddy Holly’s Rockin’ Valentine’s Party on February 11th (two shows). Starring Jeff Giles, this show is a follow-up to Giles popular performance in The Buddy Holly Story.

What could be a more Canadian way to kick off Canada’s 150th in Southwestern Ontario than with a Norm Foster play? The Palace Theatre in London’s Old East Village and the London Community Players present Jeff Giles as Buddy Holly at Port Stanley Festival Theatre on February 11 Company in the Covent Garden Market, London. Many local and professional actors got their start at OKTC — think Rachel McAdams — and for hundreds of other local kids it is a great way to learn confidence, acting skills and have fun performing.

Peter Pan Jr. runs March 9th to 18th and is sure to get your toes tapping all the way to Neverland.

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s University College in London.

Jenny’s House of Joy, a look back at prostitution in 1870 Kansas. The play runs January 12th to 22nd. In February, the London Community Players at the Palace turn to a more serious drama, A Raisin in the Sun, which was performed on Broadway in 1959. The show runs February 9th to 19th.

Finally, if you might have some kids under foot during the upcoming March Break and are looking for entertainment, check out Peter Pan Jr., by The Original Kids Theatre The Original Kids Theatre Company presents Peter Pan Jr. March 9–18

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cookbooks

Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads

By Jill Wilcox with Josie Pontarelli Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN Photographs by JACKIE NOBLE

J

anuary. Ah, January. That magical time of year when you can’t possibly eat another piece of cake, candy or chocolate. You’ve spent the last several weeks eating five meals a day and “tasting” 342 sweet/salty/ crunchy/chewy things. You’re craving light, simple food, and at the same time you need to fuel you up for the 20-minute trudge through the snow to check the mail.

So what is the answer? How do you find the balance between getting back to a normal eating schedule and craving warm filling food? Jill Wilcox and the culinary team at Jill’s Table are onto something with their latest book.

Jill’s Soups, Stews &Breads by Jill Wilcox is just the thing to get you through the icy white of January and the bleak grey of February. Spring will come eventually but until then, soup is all you need. Soup and a good loaf of homemade bread. Soup, bread, and a hearty stew on the weekend.

The author has been offering kitchenware, specialty foods and cooking classes at her London shop, Jill’s Table, for many years.

Josie Pontarelli is the resident baker and contributed most of the bread recipes as well as some soups to this book.

Sommelier Christie Pollard rounds out Jill’s team and contributed some of her personal recipes.

Jill directs us to the equipment and ingredients we need to make great soups and breads without a ton of unnecessary stuff to crowd our kitchens. She shows us that making our own broth is easy, but she also offers great alternatives for those of us not inclined to do so. Many of the recipes include easy

alterations to make them vegetarian or vegan.

The food styling

by Jill’s team, and photos by Jackie Noble of Noble Concepts, were beautifully done. Soup isn’t always the prettiest food but these recipes all looked delicious.

I think what I liked best about this book is its complete lack of fussiness. There are recipes for some classic soups that have always seemed a bit intimidating to me.

Jill’s book makes short work of those same dishes, turning them into something I’m confident I could put together in my own kitchen. Most of the recipes are no more than a page long, including tips, variations and personal notes.

Hearty Bean and Bacon Soup reminded me of visiting my grandparents as a child. Grandma knew it was my favourite and always served the orange stuff in the can.

Unfortunately, some things don’t translate into adulthood and that canned soup just isn’t as delicious to me these days. Jill’s recipe takes all the flavours I remember and elevates them into a grownup dish that ticks all the boxes.

Hearty, creamy, smoky and salty, this soup will make you smile as you watch the snow pile up outside and bury your car.

Jill Wilcox

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I’d never heard of Malaysian Laksa before, but it’s full of the southeast Asian flavours I love, and I was intrigued. This soup would be reason enough to start an indoor herb garden, just to have the fresh mint and cilantro on hand. I could eat a bowl of this spicy soup to help me cool down in summer or to stave off a cold in winter. (I know that probably doesn’t work but it makes me feel like I’m doing something.)

I started bookmarking all the recipes I wanted to try in this book but it was soon bristling with sticky notes and I couldn’t read it anymore. I think it’s going to be easier just to work my way through the book over the winter. See you in the spring!

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com.

Recipes and photos excerpted from Soups, Stews & Breads, by Jill Wilcox with Josie Pontarelli.

Hearty Bean and Bacon Soup Serves 8 to 10 1 lb (500 g) dry white pea beans 6 slices of thick bacon, diced 2 cooking onions, diced 2 ribs celery, diced 1 large carrot, diced 8 cups (2L) chicken stock 1 bay leaf 1 28-oz. (796 ml) can plum tomatoes salt and pepper

1 In a large saucepan, combine the beans and enough water to cover by at least 2 in. (5 cm).

Bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and let stand 60 minutes.

2 While the beans are soaking, cook bacon in a soup pot over medium heat until golden. Add onions, celery and carrot, and cook until tender.

3 Drain the soaked beans. Add beans to the onioncelery mixture along with chicken stock and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook until beans are tender, about 50 to 60 minutes. You will need to add more stock or water as the soup cooks.

4 Add the tomatoes with their juice and heat through. Add additional stock or water if necessary.

Remove bay leaf.

Partially purée with an immersion blender.

5. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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Laksa Laksa is a bit of a newcomer on the Asian soup scene.

It’s a Malaysian soup that starts with a bold paste of herbs and spices.

Serves 6 2 stalks lemongrass 2 small red Thai chilies or 1 jalapeno, seeded 2 large cloves garlic 1 shallot, peeled 1 lime, juiced ½ cup (125 ml) each cilantro and mint 2 tsp (10 ml) dried turmeric 1 tsp (5 ml) brown sugar 3 Tbsp (45 ml) grapeseed oil 1 lb (500 g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1 14-oz (398 ml) can coconut milk 2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock 3 cups (750 ml) snap or snow peas 5 oz (150 g) rice noodles, soaked in boiling water until tender, and drained Fish sauce

1 Trim the tough woody portion of the lemongrass and discard. Add lemongrass to a food processor along with chilies, garlic, shallot, lime juice, cilantro, mint, turmeric, sugar and 2 Tbsp (25 ml) of the oil. Process until a very smooth paste.

2 Heat remaining oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Cook chicken thighs in batches until golden on both sides. Remove and set aside.

3 Add paste to the soup pot and cook about 3 to 4 minutes stirring constantly. Stir in coconut milk and chicken stock, and bring to a simmer.

4 When chicken is cool enough to handle, cut into strips and return to pot.

5 Add snap or snow peas and cook until just tender. Season soup with fish sauce to taste, adding 1 tsp (5 ml) at a time.

6 Rinse rice noodles in warm water. Drain and divide among soup bowls. Ladle soup over noodles. Garnish with cilantro, peanuts, lime and onions.

VARIATION Substitute dried turmeric for fresh, by using 1 Tbsp (15 ml) grated.

FOOD TIP Turmeric stains terribly, so be careful.

Garnish cilantro chopped peanuts lime wedges thinly sliced green onions

JACKIE NOBLE is a professional photographer in London, specializing in commercial, portrait, event, and wedding photography. www.jackienoble.com

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books

Selections for the Resolute Three Suggestions to Start Your Reading Year Reviews by DARIN COOK

R

es·o·lu·tion (noun) 1. a firm decision to do or not to do something.

2. the action of solving a problem, dispute, or contentious matter.

Anyone who has made resolutions to read more in 2017 can start the year off by adding these foodie fiction titles to their reading list.

The School of Essential Ingredients

by Erica Bauermeister (2009) As a seasoned chef, Lillian opens up her restaurant kitchen one night a week to teach cooking classes. The story is told through the eyes of eight students. Whether cooking crab, baking cake, rolling pasta, or dipping into fondue, Lillian’s culinary style provides guidance about the perfect ingredients that help both in developing delicious recipes and solving relationship issues outside the kitchen. A mix of genders, ages, and professions, the students are so attuned to Lillian’s cooking that the food itself becomes a character, and they each begin to understand how they cook and taste food in their own individual ways. The lessons in cooking, along with the right ingredients, help the students conjure memories from the past or find direction for a life that needed new meaning. Just as the cooking classes give the students a chance to step out of their everyday lives, Bauermeister’s story is an escape into the interlocking lives of this group of people sharing in the pleasures of food.

The Cake Therapist

by Judith Fertig (2015) Claire is searching for personal healing when she brings her skills as a pastry chef back to her hometown to open Rainbow Cake bakery. It’s no surprise that dessert can be good therapy, and Claire discovers that she cannot find the answers she is looking for until she tastes them, since flavours are strong indicators of mood in this story. It is only by being busy in the bakery, caught up in the details of cake decorating, that Claire can make sense of the world to fill the holes in her heart. With more flavours, aromas, and colours than even the name of her bakery can evoke, she immerses herself in

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the business of wedding cakes. Psychology runs deep as Claire assesses the needs of her bride-to-be clients through cake tastings, discovering flavours that momentarily make them forget about life’s problems, bring back pleasant family memories, and even bring a small town mystery to light when an antique wedding ring unexpectedly resurfaces in her bakery.

Warm Up with True Comfort Food

The Hundred-Foot Journey

by Richard C. Morais (2010) Across cities and continents, we follow Hassan on a global journey starting in India and ending in France, with a short stay in England in between. All the while Hassan does not know what he is looking for, only knowing that the aromas and flavours of the family restaurant from his childhood have shaped who he is. When his father opens a new restaurant in France, the culinary culture of India takes on French cuisine in a bitter restaurant rivalry, and Hassan takes a hundred-foot journey that changes his life forever; physically, it is a short distance between two different restaurants in the same town, but ethnically, the gap is enormous.

Other French chefs begin to notice that Hassan is a natural born chef with “the culinary equivalent of perfect pitch” and his destiny is intertwined with haute cuisine, Bombay street food, and Michelin stars.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.

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the lighter side

A Piece of Cake?

By KYM WOLFE

T

his might sound fishy but …

I love word play and I have a mind that tends to trap trivia, so I’ve collected snippets of interesting word combos and mispronunciations along the way. I thought that pulling out the ones related to food would be a piece of cake, and I even expected that I would be able to cherry pick the best of the bunch.

Alas I found myself in a pickle when my memory would not cooperate as selectively as I had hoped. I tried to butter it up, I threatened it with a knuckle sandwich, but in the end this is all I could manage to cook up.

Toddlers are always a good source of adorable word accidents. What parent hasn’t been asked for pasghetti noodles or cimmanon toast? Your young one might adore the sweepy toes (sweet potatoes) but hate the spigalous (asparagus).

Then kids graduate to a higher level of punniness, mostly silly and nonsensical.

Hilarity ensues.

“What did the salad say to the dressing?”

“Lettuce be friends!”

“Why shouldn’t you tell a secret on a farm?”

“Because the potatoes have eyes and the corn has ears.”

“Why did the apple go out with the prune?”

“Because he couldn’t find a date.”

“What is black and white and green and bumpy?”

“A pickle wearing a tuxedo.”

And of course there are the knock-knock jokes.

“Knock, knock!” — “Who’s there?” — “Banana.” — “Banana who?” — “Ba-na-nana-na, na-na-na-na… [to the tune of an old vaudeville act]. Repeat three times.

By now you as a parent are getting a little exasperated, but you’re game to go one more round.

“Knock, knock!” — “Who’s there?” — “Orange” — “Orange who?” — “Orange you glad I didn’t say banana?”

Hysterical stuff.

Next we move on to idiomatic phrases, which must stymie every newcomer who has to learn English. Why does a bread winner bring home the bacon? Why shouldn’t you put all your eggs in one basket? Why might a bad smell mean someone has cut the cheese?

You might egg someone on, get in a beef with them, or walk on eggshells around them. Your sweetheart is the apple of your eye. If a bean counter is a bad egg, he might cook the books. Politicians might talk about bread and butter issues.

Even a big cheese might end up with egg on his face or eating humble pie, but he’ll still act cool as a cucumber. After all, there’s no use crying over spilt milk — he has bigger fish to fry.

Your sister-in-law has a bun in the oven.

You only know because your brother spilled the beans. Your brother is a bit of a couch potato, so you think, “That’s a fine kettle of fish!” But they say cream rises to the top, so maybe he can cut the mustard. Just don’t say anything, because they might think you have sour grapes.

So there you have it. My trivial memory well has run dry. It may not be your cup of tea, and some might be a little too corny or cheesy for your taste. But if you find word play as delicious as I do, maybe this will prompt you to send me some of your favourites. Piece of cake, you say? Well, maybe … but the proof of the pudding is in the eating!

KYM WOLFE is a London-based writer who would love to hear your favourite foodie word play. kym@kymwolfe.com

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Photo by dbphotographics

THE DONNELLYS RETURN TO TELL THEIR SIDE OF THINGS

A CATALYST THEATRE PRODUCTION

WRITTEN, COMPOSED, AND DIRECTED BY

Jonathan Christenson “CANADIAN HISTORY! – doesn’t just rock, it comes at you with an aggressive and explosive energy in the thrilling new rock musical from Catalyst Theatre” – Liz Nicholls, THE EDMONTON JOURNAL

FEB 7-11 2017

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Grab your skates and head downtown to the Covent Garden Market Rotary Rink

Skating rink is open everyday (skating only) Monday to Friday: 11am — 7pm Saturday: 10am — 7pm Sunday: 11am — 6pm Weather permitting coventmarket.com

/coventgardenmarket

Market Hours Monday to Thursday: 8am — 6pm Friday: 8am — 7:30pm Saturday: 8am — 6pm Sunday: 11am — 4pm