Eatdrink #51 January/February 2015

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 51 • January February 2015 www.eatdrink.ca

Casual Elegance at

Idlewyld Inn & Spa in Wortley Village

FEATURING

Jill’s Table

A Feast of Kitchen Essentials

Crossings Pub & Eatery

“Welcome Home” in Hyde Park

The Hot List

Food Trend Forecasts

Cleveland Rock&Roll Roadtrip

&

New York City Foodie Getaway

ALSO: Wortley Village’s Evolving Cuisine Scene | Beer & Cigar Pairings | The Skinnytaste Cookbook

Unplug in STRATFORD with international chefs and local flavour

Engage in a gastronomic journey in Stratford this winter as you savour the best of Stratford Chefs School student creations guided by international chefs at lunch and dinner. Or tie on your apron and learn the art of “Nouveau Ontario” cuisine with your partner in hands-on cooking classes. Book your Savour Stratford Tastings, exploring seductive Spanish wines and cheese or Scotch and Chocolate.

Revel with Canada’s dairy farmers at CheeseFEST and savour specialty cheese dishes chefs are creating during Stratford says Cheese!

Watch for Stratford is for Lovers, your special February treat!

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Book your winter getaway at

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U P C O M I N G E N T E R TA I N M E N T AT T H E I D L E W Y L D

Sonja Gustafson with pianist Charlie Rallo Friday, January 23rd, 2015 Dinner and show 7:00pm - 10:00pm

$60 Inclusive

Jennifer Thorpe with pianist Charlie Rallo and bassist George Mitchel Valentines February 13th & 14th, Two Shows Dinner and show 7:00pm - 10:00pm

$75 Inclusive Murder Mystery Dinner: The Blarney Stone Murder Friday, March 13th, 2015 Dinner and show 7:00pm - 10:00pm

$65 Inclusive

Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea January 17th | February 21st | March 21st, 2015 2:00pm - 4:00pm

$40 Inclusive

36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 ph 519.432.5554 | www.idlewyldinn.com |

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OUR COVER A locally-inspired fine dining menu at Idlewyld Inn & Spa befits the casual elegance of the recently restored inn.

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Kitchener • Waterloo • Cambridge • Guelph London • Brantford • Welland

contents

ISSUE № 51

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015

F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E

14

10

By BRYAN LAVERY

R E S TAU R A N T S

14

Casual Elegance at Idlewyld Inn & Spa in Wortley Village

25

Welcome Home, to Crossings Pub and Eatery in Hyde Park

22

The Hot List: Food Trend Forecasts

By BRYAN LAVERY

By LORI MADDIGAN

SPOTLIGHT

18

The Evolution of London’s Wortley Village Cuisine Scene

By BRYAN LAVERY

22

C U L I N A RY R E TA I L

New and Revised: Jill’s Table stays focussed on the home cook

By KYM WOLFE

ROAD TR I PS

By JANE ANTONIAK

Z Z U B THE 34

28 Cleveland: A Rock ‘n’ Roll Road Trip

25

34

28 44 59

T R AV E L

38

A Foodie Getaway to New York City

By JANE ANTONIAK

IN THE GARDEN

42

Sprouts — Super Food, Super Fun!

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

WINE 44

An EPIC Wine Tasting, at the London Wine & Food Show

By GARY KILLOPS

46

B E E R M AT T E R S

Beer and Cigar Pairing

By THE MALT MONK

COOKBOOKS

49

The Skinnytaste Cookbook by Gina Homolka

Review by TRACY TURLIN

53

BOOKS

53

Food: A Love Story by Jim Gaffigan

Review by DARIN COOK

56

N E W & N O TA B L E

The BUZZ

T H E AT R E

56

On the Boards: More from The Fringe

By RICK YOUNG

MUSIC

60

Sound Bites: A World of Sound

By NICOLE LAIDLER

THE LIGHTER SIDE

62

Behind the Scenes

By KYM WOLFE

62

navigate great № 51 | January/February 2015

TO

TIMES

in

Lambton County

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LAMBTON SHORES

SARNIA & POINT EDWARD

CENTRAL LAMBTON

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LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR VACATION PLAYGROUND!

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

note from the publisher

Uncorking Another Vintage Year

By CHRIS McDONELL

W

e look forward to seeing you at London’s bigger, better and tastier wine and food experience. Now in its 10th year, the 2015 London Wine and Food Show expands to the Western Fair Agriplex January 15–17. This is the definitive place to explore new tastes and culinary trends on an extravagant walk-around wine and food tasting tour. Be sure to visit our eatdrink booth and enter our draw to win a Lexus Reflections President Package. Rest assured that we don’t spam or sell or trade email addresses, so don’t be shy about entering our draws. We don’t want you to miss this one!

London continues to grow a reputation as a hot-spot for authentic culinary experiences.

An increasingly large number of enthusiastic and creative farmers, bakeries, butcheries, chefs, cooks, culinary retailers and educators, and passionate restaurateurs are advancing the local palate and our regional culinary identity. We here at eatdrink are currently assembling the 2015 London’s Local Flavour, the Tourism London Culinary Guide. This guide offers tangible proof that Londoners are not just advocating “eating and drinking local” and “eating seasonal,” they are actively and creatively enhancing and renewing

other established cuisines. Local Flavour helps businesses participate in two popular economic trends: culinary tourism — a vital component of the tourism experience — and the local food movement. This guide effectively promotes London as a leading, diverse, year-round culinary destination, and we’ll let you know how to get your hands on one in our next issue.

Many of you are reading our digital versions of eatdrink and London’s Local Flavour, and thank you for doing so. There are many compelling reasons to make our publications available online. The ecological cost of printing a magazine is something we’ve considered, part of why we’re small (although we also love our user-friendly size). But we will always distribute hard copies in select locations throughout London and our region and we recently expanded our print circulation by 33% so our devoted readers can find a copy while we continue to attract new followers. But we encourage you to visit our website and follow us on Twitter and Facebook. We publish some stories exclusively online, and we don’t want you to miss a word.

Cheers!

Win a Lexus Road Trip!

from

eatdrink &

Enter our Draw for a Lexus Reflections President Package The comprehensive appearance reconditioning service will completely rejuvenate your vehicle. While the fully-trained Appearance Technicians detail your vehicle, you will be provided with a beautiful Lexus to drive for a weekend!

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag Contest ends February 20, 2015. Complete details online.

FINE FOOD

in Downtown London Downtown London would like to welcome the businesses and restaurants of Richmond Row to the new boundary!

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

food writer at large

The Hot List Food trends to track in 2015

By BRYAN LAVERY

T

lovers continue to seek out their next big he end of one year and the chili high, and upscaled spicier ramen beginning of another is the perfect noodles are at the top of that list. time to re-examine the role of Waffle sandwiches and flavoured culinary trends as a gauge salts are popular. In New York City, of popular culture. How we eat, savoury ice creams and savoury what we eat, and where we eat are yogurts including beet, parsnip and all indicators of the larger popular carrot, and Middle Eastern flavours consciousness. Tastemakers and like hummus and spicy harissa oil are trend analysts use a variety of ways the rage. Pimm’s Cup #1 (the drink to determine what’s hot and what’s of Wimbledon) is finally making a not. The fact is that most gastronomic comeback. Matcha (finely milled trends have a shelf life.

Technological innovation, food The SmartAPPetite app or fine powder green tea) and coconut sugar are among the top science, increasingly inquisitive predictions as food trends. customers and rising labour costs will be Energy protein bars made from cricket driving factors in food and beverage trends flour helped introduce the idea of at restaurants and hotels next year, insect-eating to North America. according to a recent report by food The discussion about eating and restaurant consulting firm insects is just beginning, but Baum + Whiteman. The culinary it is not expected to go away, world continues to embrace as environmental sustainability smartphones, mobile apps and and nutrition become progressively all sorts of devices and programs that Pistachios convincing arguments. Chef Jeff interface directly with the consumer.

Stewart of Creepy Crawly Cooking, Locally, think of The SmartAPPetite along with the bug experts from app which communicates to users Cambridge Butterfly Conservatory not only what, when and where featured bug cooking demos this local food can be procured, but year at Savour Stratford. Besides offers reliable dietary information learning about entomophagy (the and nutritional recipes as well. practice of eating insects) there One of the top trends in 2015 were lots of free samples. will be the continuing popularity A Spanish company has and obsession with fermented developed laser labeling for fresh foods (think kombucha made with produce, which can apply logos, tea, sugar bacteria and yeast, or Beet Ice Cream provenance specifics and even QR other aged, pickled or cured foods). codes on to fruit and vegetables.

Pistachios will be the nuts du jour. We are Farewell, annoying and un-ecobeing told to expect to see smoked flavours friendly stickers and welcome as this year’s taste sensation. benign food tattoos.

This past year, the The kombu salad, with its preoccupation with chilies and iodine crunch of seaweed, heat continued — ghost chiliis unlikely to become as infused honey is one taste that’s over-hyped as the kale boom gaining considerable buzz. Food Laser Labeling

№ 51 | January/February 2015

but its popularity is on the rise. Speaking of seaweed, according to Baum + Whiteman, “Consumers recognize it as a packaged snack and as a California roll’s wrapper.

But chefs are adding it (often silently) to poaching broths, seafood sauces, even risotto, for its punch of umami and evanescent background flavor and dash of salinity. They’re inspired by a sustainable sea-to-table ethos ... and also by new-Nordic cooks searching for food under tree stumps and boulders.”

Chef Rene Redzepi in Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant, Restaurant Magazine’s “world’s best restaurant”for the fourth time in five years Chef Rene Redzepi and chef de cuisine Daniel Giusti of Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant (short for nordisk mad meaning Nordic food) serve dishes prepared under tenets drawn up for the New Nordic cuisine.

In 2010, 2011, 2012, and again in 2014, Noma was ranked as the “world’s best restaurant”

by Restaurant Magazine, based on a poll of international chefs, restaurateurs, gastronomes and restaurant critics. Each year the awards provide a snapshot of the world’s gastronomic scene — an internationally acknowledged and esteemed reference point which showcases leading trends from around the world.

After the innovations of the New Nordic cuisine in Scandinavia and chef Ferran Adrià’s experimental modernist cuisine at El Bulli in Spain, interest in Mexican and Latin American cuisines has been spiking among food enthusiasts. Culinary pundits are expecting to see further international expansion of Peruvian cuisine in the near future.

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

ascent of culturally diverse street food being Traditional Mexican is making way for re-imagined in restaurant kitchens. top-quality takes on tacos and ceviche at When I go out to dine, I am high-end restaurants around attracted to restaurants that the globe — taking inspiration support local farmers, smallfrom one of the world’s most scale producers and food esteemed kitchen auteurs, artisans by procuring and innovative Mexican chef featuring local ingredients, Enrique Olvera. It seems products and wines. that everyone is interested in Patronizing farm-to-table finding new ways to reinterpret restaurants makes perfect the taco. sense because it supports and A highly refined version sustains economic activity of Newfoundland cuisine is on a local level. I primarily a strong contender for the support small-scale farmers world’s next “it” cuisine. and frequent farmers’ According to Derek Dammann markets and only shop in of Montreal’s Maison Publique grocery chains as a last resort. and Jamie Oliver’s Canadian To keep informed and stay partner, chef Jeremy Charles’s Mallard Cottage, St. John’s up-to-date with the culinary wild foods at Raymonds, and world, I regularly attend food chef Todd Perrin’s Mallard Cottage, “will make St. John’s the next major events, press preview dinners and consult with culinary innovators, chefs, farmers food travel destination in the world.” and food artisans who are interMade in small batches with dependent, community-focused, specialized, local ingredients, passionate and interested “craft everything” has become a in advancing the culinary foodie mantra. The movement conversation not only in Ontario for craft beer brought new but across the country. enthusiasm, flavours and sales to Savour Stratford continues the beer industry. Look for this to be a prime example of movement to encompass other collaborative culinary innovation beverages and culinary items, by linking food to place with the as millennials are being given still emerging, modern cuisine credit for driving most of the du terroir and its commitment upcoming trends. to origin and season. Highlights To start a food trend from of Savour Stratford this past agriculture is “one of the riskiest” year included the “Intimate Tutored things an entrepreneur can do, states Toronto writer David Sax in The Tastemakers: Talks and Tastings” with culinary experts discussing trends from foraged wild edibles Why We’re Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up to fermentation, preserving seafood, the with Fondue. “Yet every day,” he writes, pairing of craft beers and sampling “there are countless farmers, Ontario VQA wines, and scientists and gardening The Grand Tasting, a stylish dreamers with a trowel in garden party showcasing their hand, digging in the dirt chefs and producers who and planting the seed they were paired to create a hope will one day change the strictly terroir-driven regional way we eat.” tasting experience. It is easy to see the Over the years, I have often found it local food movements are not short-lived remarkable the way culinary experts, food trends, but transformations in the collective media, market researchers and trend mindset of chefs and culinary specialists predictors seize a collective thought or idea around the globe. with such a synchronicity of timing. This certainly has been the case with regard to the “local food” movement, the food truck and night market phenomena, and the BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

Stratford is more than great theatre 55 GEORGE ST. W. STRATFORD 519.272.2828 | CHOCOLATEBARR.COM OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

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restaurants

Idlewyld Inn & Spa Casual Elegance in London’s Charming Wortley Village

By BRYAN LAVERY

S

ituated in London’s quaint Old South neighborhood, the historic Idlewyld has sustained its grandeur for over a century. Purchased by Farhi Holdings after it unexpectedly closed last fall, the Inn was originally built as a private home for former London mayor Charles Smith Hyman. What started out as a mansion built in 1878 has now evolved into London’s premier inn and spa, boasting membership in organizations such as Distinguished Inns of North America. The Victorian character, landscaped grounds, well-kept gardens and overall ambience of the Inn appeals to travelers who are looking for unique and intimate accommodations.

Shmuel Farhi immediately recognized the immense potential in the Idlewyld Inn, a three-storey grand Victorian-style mansion.

Farhi had previously purchased and restored the Elm Hurst Inn & Spa which is located just off Highway 401 in Ingersoll. Elm Hurst has been a southwestern Ontario landmark since it was built by James Harris in 1872.

The original mansion was transformed into the Elm Hurst Restaurant, and is considered by many to be an architectural marvel with signature gingerbread trim, an Italianate tower, and gothic window arches. Today, this mansion stands grand and dignified in

a bucolic setting. New lighting, furniture, landscaping and an opulent copper roof were added to the building. The beautifully manicured gardens also feature a white marble gazebo that overlooks a pond with a fountain and a natural waterfall. The refurbished adjoining 19th-century Carriage House has become a popular destination for weddings and corporate events.

General Manager Alon Gurman provides the staff members at both the Idlewyld Inn & Spa and the Elm Hurst Inn & Spa with the vision and guidance to excel at fulfilling guest expectations. Effie Gurman is the Idlewyld Inn & Spa manager. The husband and wife team previously worked together running the former 600-room Hyatt Regency Hotel Dead Sea in Israel.

The Idlewyld offers 21 guest rooms, each uniquely decorated to capture the Inn’s distinctive allure, an on-site spa and a fine dining restaurant. A day spa has been added to the Inn’s amenities, with two massage tables, and manicure and pedicure stations.

After an extensive renovation last spring the property has been restored to its former glory and the Inn’s guest rooms, reception areas and dining rooms have also been newly updated, keeping The Parlour the character and charm of the original

№ 51 | January/February 2015

The Drawing Room property. The new owners have added many elegant touches to the property including a stunning outdoor fountain.

With unique furnishings, window treatments and gleaming exotic woods and other amenities, the Idlewyld steps across the threshold of elegance to a grander era.

Rooms are fitted with flat-screen televisions, but antique armoires and desks remain, maintaining an elegant ambience combined with a touch of the contemporary.

The original mansion included a formal parlour, a dining room, and an informal parlour for the lady of the house, a library with private study, and a ballroom. The master bedroom was once attached to a sunroom, now the second floor landing, while the third floor would have been used as servants’ quarters.

Today, The Parlour, one of two common areas off the small foyer, retains its original leather Lincrusts-Walton wallpaper from 1878. The wallpaper was meticulously restored by Agnieszka Cukrowski of Unsigned Murals during the recent upgrades to the Inn. Other notable installations of Lincrusts-Walton wallpaper included six staterooms on the Titanic and at the White House in Washington DC. During the most recent renovations, The Drawing Room had a tin ceiling added to give it more character, adding to the overall

The Dining Room

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charm of the room. A baby grand piano still provides entertainment at the entrance to the dining room.

The largest suite, called the Library (because it originally was the home’s library) features a king-size bed, separate living room with pull-out couch, and the original fireplace which boasts an intricate wooden mantle with ceramic inlay. The room also maintains its original coffered ceilings.

Two well-appointed dining rooms are a reflection of the casual elegance around which the Idlewyld has built its reputation.

The rooms are smart and impeccable, combined with well-spaced tables, comfortable armchairs and banquettes.

Chef de cuisine Trevor Stephens received classical “Red Seal” training at Fanshawe College. He comes to the Idlewyld Inn & Spa after spending nine years at the Elm Hurst Inn & Spa, where he was the sous chef. The restaurant offers a locally-inspired menu of contemporary and traditional choices, complemented by a selection of international and local wines, and draught ales are on tap.

Stephens’ menus are loaded with ingredients which, along with the stylish dining room, evoke the phrase fine dining.

Hearty French onion soup is a reliable antidote to cold, blustery weather and is exquisitely prepared by Chef, with caramelized onions in a deeply flavoured broth and a blend of perfectly melted Gruyère and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses.

To accompany the soup, my guest ordered a side of delectable golden brown frites, which he decreed was the perfect benchmark for comparison between different fine dining establishments. It would seem that the Idlewyld has no peer in this department.

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Be sure to try the seared slices of crispy duck breast confit. The breast meat was grilled to a seductive char on the outside and deep pink within and accompanied by an arugula salad. The arugula was tossed in blood-orange vinaigrette and garnished with dried cranberries, toasted almonds and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Another dish that tests the kitchen’s mettle was the house-made charcuterie tasting board.

The board features duck, pistachio and cranberry rillettes, pork belly and vegetable terrine, sliced smoked brisket and other accoutrements like pickled vegetables, savoury jams and chutneys.

A half a dozen pillow-shaped ricotta and potato gnocchi with garbanzo beans, roasted eggplant and yellow zucchini,

1

A King Estate Room wilted spinach, tomato concassé and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano provided an enjoyable multi-cultural amalgam of flavours. A table of six women beside us pronounced the very rustic looking quiche a hands-down winner.

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3

1 House-Made Pastrami Sandwich 2 Roasted Turkey and Arugula Pinwheels 3 Escargot Bourguignon Vol-au-vent 10

4

4 Slider Trio of Beef, Lamb & Turkey 5 Pan-Seared Scallops 3 Ways 6 Braised Veal Osso Buco with Buttered Egg Noodles 7 Seared Duck Breast & Arugula Salad 9

8 Pan-Seared 8oz Filet of Beef & Chanterelle Mushrooms

5

9 Pulled Chicken Vol-au-vent 10 Rosemary-scented Roasted Ontario Lamb Rack

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7

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There is veal osso bucco, roasted Ontario lamb rack, bone-in centre cut pork loin chop and filet of beef with chanterelles on the dinner menu. Desserts are impressive, including a sticky date pudding served with crème Anglaise and toffee sauce — “it’s perfection,” my dining companion commented — and a perfect French apple tart served warm with chèvre ice cream and caramel sauce. The service is knowledgeable, polished and deferential.

Many hoteliers fight the perception that their establishments are for the exclusive use of out-of-town guests. The Idlewyld has finally lain to rest the idea that hotel dining is strictly for tourists and special celebrations. The grounds, front porch and elegant ambiance of the hidden Garden Courtyard create welcome retreats to enjoy al fresco dining in season.

According to the ever hospitable maître d’ Ed Bloor (who many patrons will remember from the former Maggie’s Supper & Jazz Club), the Inn seeks to be a “drop-in-asyou’re-walking-by” type of place for the Old South neighbourhood.”

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The Spa The Idlewyld Inn & Spa 36 Grand Avenue, London ON 519-432-5554 www.idlewyldinn.com

breakfast: 7–10am mon–fri; 8–11am sat, sun & holidays lunch: 11–3pm mon–fri; 11:30–2pm sat dinner: 5pm–9pm tues–sat brunch: 11am-2pm on sundays afternoon tea: 2pm–4pm on the third saturday of each month BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

January 23rd – February 8th

$25, $30, $35, & $40

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spotlight

Locally Supported and Independent The Evolution of Cuisine in London’s Wortley Village

By BRYAN LAVERY

W

ortley Village has a lengthy past as a residential suburb of Lon­ don with a uniquely independent personality.

This history of the village is reflected in the concentration of recognizable architectural styles (Victorian, art deco and mission-style) and an aesthetic combination of heritage buildings dating from the area’s early years between 1850 and 1930. The well-preserved heritage character of many of the homes and long-standing public buildings, along with the pedestrian-oriented streetscape of the Wortley Road commercial strip, give the neighbourhood an identifiable charm and cultural uniqueness. The area is bordered

by Wellington Road to the east, Wharncliffe Road to the west, Horton Street to the north and Commissioners Road to the south.

A walkable and bicycle-friendly community whose residents have a reputation for their significant contributions to the creative vitality of London, Wortley Village is a respected core neighbourhood. A panel of judges from the Canadian Institute of Planners named Wortley Village Canada’s Great Neighbourhood for 2013 in both the Grand Prize and People’s Choice categories. “It has a true identity.

When you think of great neighbourhoods, you think of physical spaces as well as the people,” said judge John Fleming, a member of the Canadian Institute of Planners, who is

also London’s Managing Director of Planning, and City Planner of London.

Back in 2002, Wortley Village was dubbed one of Canada’s “coolest neighbourhoods” by enRoute magazine.

The publication noted Wortley Village’s “gorgeous old homes as well as every kind of merchant and shop run as independent businesses. Residents don’t even need a car.”

Home to artisans and artists, unique home-run and independently owned shops, services, restaurants and nightlife, the Wortley Village mixed-use commercial strip has evolved organically over time to its present revitalized state. The streetscape is a varied collection of interesting buildings bustling with boutiques, restaurants, cafes, small-scale from-scratch bakeries, and one of the best ice cream vendors in the city. There are landmark retailers, like the recently renovated and environmentallyfriendly Quarter Master Natural Foods — one of the original health food stores in the city, having served Wortley Village and the community for over 30 years.

There’s a very strong café culture in Wortley Village, with a diversity of outdoor culinary experiences for everyone. On the corridor the staggered buildings are mostly set back from the street and in season this allows patrons to enjoy dining at a sidewalk café, in a secluded courtyard setting, under a pergola, or on an elevated patio or a charming side-street terrace. The following section highlights some of the interesting culinary options found in Wortley Village:

The Village Harvest Bakery

This nearly 20-year-old Wortley Road institution, helmed by Sharon Landry and Douglas Huskilson, is a scratch bakery that has been operating since 1997. This is true artisanal baking — rustic, with an emphasis on quality wholesome ingredients and

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freshness. The bakery retails over 30 types of bread and a selection of high-quality specialty items, including diabetic-friendly muffins, granola, cookies, squares and tarts baked daily on site. The bakery is known for their pies, in particular cranberry pecan, apple and three-berry flavours. One of the breads the bakery is known for is Adelaide’s Nova Scotia Brown. Village Harvest Bakery’s apprentice Eric reflects their collaboration with the Youth Opportunities Unlimited organization. All the baking is from scratch and with as many locallysourced Ontario ingredients as possible.

The bakery offers seniors and the unwaged 10% off their purchases daily.

145 Wortley Road, 519-667-1199

Sweet Onion Grill

The Sweet Onion Grill is located in the premises previously occupied by Ciao Bistro, and Relish, across from the Black Walnut Café. This informal, bistro-style restaurant is operated by the restaurant-savvy Ross Agathos (father of Zack Agathos of the newly opened Icarus Resto Bar) formerly of Ross Eagle Custom Sports and Huron House/ Dancing Greek Restaurant. Agathos’ new hire, Welsh-born chef Chris Powell, has put together a traditional menu, albeit not locally-focused, having assimilated many influences. The restaurant looks to Greece as an accent, not necessarily a theme.

Pan-fried pork belly is served with sweet

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onion marmalade and port reduction.

Saganaki prepared with kefalograviera (hard sheep’s milk cheese) is flambéed with ouzo tableside. The service is genuine and hospitable and the price point is the most accessible in the village. There is a nicely situated outdoor terrace in season.

135 Wortley Road, 519-204-5575

Manisay and Rafael (Fouzan) invite you to join them for dinner or lunch

519.850.1222 120 Dundas St. at Talbot www.thaifoonrestaurant.com

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Mai’s Café and Bistro

This spot in Wortley Village has an unimposing frontage leading into a compact and pleasant interior, where aromatics of Thai cuisine permeate the narrow room, and the queue for takeaway is constant. There’s an assortment of traditional Thai fare and an unexpected variety of Western food on the unconventional menu. Generally, Mai’s offers a satisfying dining experience with curry dishes, pad Thai, pasta, fish and chips and a Canadian breakfast. The Thai food is the real reason to go, though. Kai, Mai`s sister, is a welcoming and knowledgeable presence in the restaurant. Many of you will remember Mai as the former owner of Café Milagro in Byron.

142-A Wortley Road, 519- 679-1221

Black Walnut Bakery Café

On a recent weekday morning at Black Walnut Bakery, customers lined up in front of the glass counter for shiny apple tarts, melt-in-your-mouth scones, lemon squares and a variety of savoury delicacies. From the welcoming hospitality and the rich aroma of fresh coffee, to the smell of pastries baking in the ovens, the Black Walnut Bakery Café is a destination café experience. With close attention to detail and strong relationships with the community, co-owners Wilson and Mandy Etheridge create a warm, neighbourly vibe. The Etheridges strive to provide a unique coffee experience by roasting their own distinctive organic, Fair Trade and Rain Forest Alliance coffees under the Black Walnut label. Specialty trained baristas are adept at handcrafting

№ 51 | January/February 2015

espresso drinks with organic syrups using the latest top-of-the-line equipment. The Black Walnut offers scratch baking every morning, seven days a week, as well as a café menu of artfully prepared made-to-order sandwiches, seasonal soups and salads, frittatas, bread, squares and light meals.

Nothing is served in the café that isn’t handcrafted and made in their scratch kitchen.

134 Wortley Road, 519-439-BAKE (2253)

Old South Village Pub

Located in a restored heritage home, the Old South Village Pub is a warm, inviting old English-style pub and a good choice

for relaxing alfresco in Wortley Village. The pub is located in the heart of the village, so there’s a great view of the neighbourhood.

The menu includes homemade woodoven pizzas, steak and Guinness pies and “the best” sweet potato fries. The pub also features a selection of popular Indianinspired dishes. The pizzas are a favourite of locals in Wortley Village.

149 Wortley Road, 519-645-1166

Gusto Food and Wine Bar

Open since September 2012, Gusto is a welcome addition to Old South’s dining scene. The restaurant is housed in a

refurbished Victorian home that was formerly an antique shop and then the late lamented Casa Cubano restaurant. Chef

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 51 | January/February 2015

Stephen Burns shows off his skills with a menu that includes charcuterie and tapasstyle plates with “sharables” like risotto balls, pulled pork sliders and signature meatballs.

The restaurant is known for its cracker-thin crisp pizzas. Dine inside or al fresco in season on the attractive verandah.

175 Wortley Road, 519-937-1916

Wortley Village Fire Roasted Café

Fire Roasted Coffee has built its reputation on roastings, tastings, retail, wholesale, by the cup, and by the bag. The outpost café with its large picture window attracts Wortley Village hipsters, coffee aficionados, students and professionals with laptops. The café is known for its simple honest fare: freshly-roasted coffee, baked goods and pastries (provided by the Artisan Bakery in Old East Village), locally produced beer, and a small wine list curated by local wine expert Michael Buck.

Last year, entrepreneur David Cook approached Kendra Gordon-Green of the

former Little Red Roaster, seeking to take over their space in order to give Fire Roasted a presence and higher profile in Wortley Village. Now there are plans to expand Tuckey Home Hardware into the current café space in 2015. A deal has been reached

21

with owner Dave Tuckey, whose grandfather opened the store in 1946, to incorporate a new flagship Fire Roasted café in the plans. In the meantime, Cook views the Wortley Road location like a pop-up restaurant where he is able to create a complementary niche and a distinct footprint in the neighbourhood.

138 Wortley Road, 519-601-9477 BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

an experience to savour ... casual fine dining world-inspired cuisine enhanced by local and seasonal ingredients private dining rooms for lunch & dinner

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523 richmond st. just N of the Grand Theatre

519-850-1500 blacktrumpet.ca

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

culinary retail

Plus ça change ...

New and revised, Jill’s Table is still focussed on the home cook

By KYM WOLFE

J

ill’s Table now has a new table… and a new kitchen…and a new website. But a warm welcome by knowledgeable staff, unique gadgets, hard-to-find foods, and popular cooking classes are still on the menu as Jill celebrates 15 years of business in the Market district.

“We looked at our 15 year anniversary as an opportunity to make a few changes and refocus,” explains owner Jill Wilcox. What started as a project to update the kitchen’s appliances morphed into a bit of a store makeover, with a new location for the expanded kitchen area and a new store layout that she feels improves the flow of the space. “The renovation gave us a chance to zero in on what is essential to a home cook.

We want people to get as much enjoyment out of food as we do.”

Wilcox was pleased that the entire renovation required the store to be closed for only three days, and that the regulars are as happy with the changes as she is. “We’ve had nothing but positive feedback from our customers. We moved the cash desk to the front, so now we can greet people as soon as they walk in. One of our regulars told us it feels like a good oldfashioned general store.”

A general store with a European flair, that is — Wilcox says the new design was influenced by the many shops that she has visited in Europe, where she has sourced many of the

The inviting storefront on King Street, across from Covent Garden Market exclusive products that you will find on her store’s shelves. “It’s incredibly important to keep up with trends,” says Wilcox, who regularly attends industry shows and travels to foodie destinations.

The store carries a number of exclusive and branded items, including olive oils that are produced for Wilcox in Tuscany; tea towels made by a Swedish company that has been family owned and operated since 1692; a Jill’s whisk, wooden spatula, and chef’s knife; an ipad holder for easy recipe reading, along with Jill’s own hard-copy series of cookbooks, and more.

There are also whimsical items like food-themed socks, Hands-on owner Jill Wilcox in the newly renovated demonstration kitchen

№ 51 | January/February 2015

wine glass lamp shades to create unique table mood lighting, and fun and funky ring holders to keep jewellery safe while you’re working in the kitchen.

With a nod to the new generation of online shoppers, Jill’s Table offers a selection of items that can be purchased through the website (jillstable.ca), including themed gift baskets for every occasion, from the chocolate lover’s basket to the charcuterie entertaining board. Wilcox recognizes the importance of a well-branded online presence and has recently created a new staff position — a marketing and events coordinator who will also maintain the store’s online presence, from the freshly updated website to social media like Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest.

Jill is self-taught in the kitchen and she believes that learning to cook is an important basic skill. “We want people to get as much enjoyment out of cooking as we do. We want to get more people cooking and eating together around their dinner tables

Let the Skating Tradition Continue!

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Rink Open: 11am – 7pm Monday to Friday

10am – 7pm Saturday

11am – 6pm Sunday

Valentine’s Day – February 14

Valentine’s Dinner It’s the perfect time to make your reservation for that perfect Valentine’s Day. Special menus for Valentine’s Day at both locations.

Waldo’s Bistro & Olive R Twist (519) 433-6161 (519) 204-9184 Valentine’s Flowers Flowers, when only the best are right for your Lovely!

Bloomers & Forget Me Not Flowers (519) 675-1133 (519) 850-3300 Valentine’s Day Chocolates If it’s your sweetie that needs to be satisfied, try London’s Finest!

Forrat’s (519) 455-2285 The Chocolate Factory (519) 663-5787 The Ice Creamery (519) 642-0202 For more information please visit our website

Jill’s Table offers an array of practical and whimsical products: food, kitchenware, tableware and gifts

Affordably Fresh, Friendly & Local

coventmarket.com

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Market Hours Mon. to Thurs. 8am — 6pm Friday: 8am — 7:30pm Saturday: 8am — 6pm Sunday: 11am — 4pm

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

Recent renovations in the kitchen included replacing the mirror with a screen, allowing students a better view during cooking classes.

on a regular basis.”

To that end Jill’s Table hosts a series of cooking classes, some delivered by local chefs who demonstrate how to make the different dishes. In the newly renovated kitchen, a screen has replaced the mirror over the counter, to provide a better view of the preparations. Afterwards guests enjoy sharing the meal together at communal tables. Classes can focus on anything from pizza, pasta or vegetarian to different ethnic dishes, and offerings change with the seasons. For the 2015 winter classes, menus range from hearty soups and stews to Italian, Moroccan and Latin American dishes. There are also smaller hands-on classes where participants help prepare the meal or learn kitchen basics, like knife skills.

With the new kitchen, Wilcox also plans to offer daytime classes this year, including corporate team-building sessions, providing an interactive experience and opportunity for staff to break bread together.

Another way Wilcox is sharing her passion for home cooking and the practice of family meals is through the Jill Wilcox Foundation, which she launched in 2012. The foundation raises funds and grants donations to food-related and learning projects that support women and children in need. The 2014 recipients included Reconnect at the Market, an alternative education program at Thames Valley District School Board that re-engages students who have left school without graduating. Jill conducted a cooking class for the participants in the program and provided grocery cards and food totes, containing some essential kitchen items for the students.

The foundation also supported the building of a culinary garden at Merrymount to grow a variety of vegetables and fruits that will be used in the organization’s kitchen.

This year it is Jill’s goal to conduct cooking classes for some of the families that use Merrymount’s services.

As she reflects on the past 15 years, operating a store that is open six days a week, being involved in the community and in other projects that are important to her, Wilcox says, “Retail is taxing, and the challenges seem to be getting bigger all the time. I might slow down a bit, but I’m really excited for the next chapter.” She plans to continue conducting culinary tours twice a year in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, which she has been involved in for the past five years. This year she also plans to set sail with Oceania Cruises in June, to host a food lovers’ Mediterranean adventure.

Jill’s Table 115 King Street, London 519-645-133 www.jillstable.ca KYM WOLFE is a local writer who enjoys cooking when she has time, and family dinners all the time. www.kymwolfe.com

№ 51 | January/February 2015

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restaurants

Welcome Home to Crossings Pub and Eatery, in Hyde Park

By LORI MADDIGAN

F

airway Pub Group, owner of Crossings Pub and Eatery and Practical Henry’s Public House, has one simple goal: “to offer people a place to experience enjoyment.”

Crossings Hyde Park location opened four years ago and has attracted a loyal following of patrons who Crossings — a city pub in a country setting visit regularly for the food, the drinks, and the fun.

Customers enjoy a diverse selection of upmarket pub fare in a warm and changes annually, customers can choose homey countryside setting. On a cold, winter from four seasonal menus, as well as daily food and drink features. Executive Chef day, what could be better than traditional Dan Garlough says, “Most of our food is shepherd’s pie, steak & Guinness pot pie, or locally sourced and 95% of our menu is Crossings best-seller — gourmet meat loaf? house-made.” While standard menu items A steaming bowl of chicken corn chowder are prepared according to specification to or one of the other daily soup creations, ensure a consistent customer experience, along with a melted brie and house-made Garlough says, “Since most of our dishes strawberry preserve grilled cheese sandwich would also hit the spot. For something a little are made to order, we have the flexibility spicier, patrons might order a side of jalapeno to accommodate dairy-free, gluten-free, bacon mac and cheese, which pairs well with vegetarian and other special requests.”

Crossings recently introduced Chicken a cold draught from Crossings’ extensive Dinner Tuesdays. For $11.99, customers can selection of beers — bottled and on tap. savour a quarter-chicken dinner (choice of In addition to the regular menu, which white or dark meat) with potatoes, gravy, house-made baked beans, fresh coleslaw and a roll. The chickens are brined overnight to produce flavourful, moist cuts.

On Sundays, Crossings offers a brunch menu from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., and a prime rib dinner after 5:00 p.m. The restaurant also holds regular Whiskey Dinners, at which customers can sample chef’s creations accompanied by a variety of whiskeys. The New Year’s Eve event, featuring an elegant four

№ 51 | January/February 2015

course meal served with sparkling wine and live entertainment, is also popular.

The commitment to customer enjoyment extends beyond delicious food, friendly service and a cozy atmosphere. On Monday evenings, customers compete for prizes in the Pubstumpers trivia contest, while sharing freshly prepared pub fare such as chicken wings, pulled pork tacos, sweet potato perogies, nachos, and deep dish pizza. Local acoustic artists perform every Saturday from 8:00 p.m. until midnight. In the warmer weather, musicians entertain up to 70 patrons outdoors on one of London’s best patios, which features a well-stocked bar with 30 beers on tap. General Manager Christina McGrath, better known to regulars as Teeny, attributes much of Crossings’ success to the staff. “We’re like a family,” she says. “And we

The upmarket pub fare at Crossings includes an artisinal meatloaf sandwich served with Guinness gravy (above), fish and chips with house cut fries, and BBQ braised beef ribs served with Mac n cheese and market fresh vegetables

extend that to our customers. It’s all about making people feel welcome.

We want to make sure everyone leaves happy.”

Crossings in Lambeth opened its doors in fall 2014 and offers customers the same quality menu, extensive beer, wine and cocktail list, and fun events as the Hyde Park location. The new restaurant also has a wonderful patio customers can look forward to enjoying in the months to come.

Both Crossings locations, being neighbourhood pubs, embrace community involvement by sponsoring youth sports teams and running events throughout the year to benefit local charities like the Thames Valley Children’s Centre. Patrons wishing to support local charities while enjoying food, beverages and fun can attend the annual Beerfest at the Hyde Park location’s patio, meet local brewers and beer reps, and sample from over 70 different beers. The Wine and Scotch event is another such perennial favourite; guests roam from station to station on the upper floor of the Hyde Park location, sampling foods that are expertly paired with a wide selection of wines and scotches.

The Hyde Park venue is also available for private events. With separate rooms on the main and upper floors, Crossings can

№ 51 | January/February 2015

accommodate small parties, or groups of up to 100 guests.

McGrath says, “We host holiday parties, receptions and even weddings. Groups can use the entire second floor where we will set up a private bar and food stations with our chef-created hors d’hoeuvres.” Crossings also offers flexible set-priced menus.

Whether you’re looking for Sample from the extensive comfort food and a cold pint, selection in the Whiskey Room a mouth-watering burger and fresh-cut fries, an elegant Crossings Pub and Eatery seafood linguine with fine wine, or fun Hyde Park: 1269 Hyde Park Road, London and games over cocktails, music and pub 519-472-3020 fare — on your own or with a large group Lambeth: 2300 Wharncliffe Rd. S., London — Crossings offers a welcoming, homey 519-652-4020 environment for everyone. www.crossingsgrill.ca Fairway Pub Group is rebranding Maxwell McCoy’s & Crave at Richmond/Fanshawe Park Road as Practical Henry’s Public House and renovating the premises.

The new menu will be introduced in the spring.

sunday–thursday: 11 am–11 pm friday–saturday: 11 am–1 am LORI MADDIGAN is a London area freelance writer who believes that good food inspires good writing.

Watch for news of our new showroom in Wingham, ON.

Opening 2015!

For cooking at its finest, we offer steam ovens, true convection ovens, gas and induction cooktops and a microwave/grill combination.

For cooling, we sell the top European brand – Liebherr – featuring everything from built-in refrigerators to temperature-controlled wine coolers. We are excited to now be offering Smeg, from their retro ’50s-style refrigerators and bar fridge to their full line of sleek and modern stainless steel appliances.

THE EUROPEAN APPLIANCE STORE Everything an appliance should be

39822 Belgrave Road, Belgrave ON – just North of Blyth

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

road trips

Cleveland:

SPONSORED BY

A Rock ‘n’ Roll Road Trip

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

P

retty much anyone born after 1950, and the children they raised while playing rock ‘n’ roll music in the car and family room, will likely enjoy letting it roll on down the highway to Cleveland for a musical get-away road trip that also features impressive foodie offerings.

Cleveland? Yes, Cleveland. Only five hours of easy driving from London, it is the home of the very impressive Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, It is also the home of a century old indoor market, of Iron Chef Michael Symon (who has several restaurants in Cleveland and the surrounding area) and a vibrant cultural/university neighbourhood.

Cleveland surprised positively in so many ways that it is on the radar to return with our young adult children for more music and food experiences.

Love cannoli? Enjoy some at Theresa’s, in the historic West Side Market

A favourite destination for visitors to Cleveland: The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum The easiest way to get there from London is to cross into Michigan at Sarnia/Port Huron, by-pass Detroit while listening to some Motown music and make your first pitstop in Toledo, Ohio. True rock and roll fans know what it is to crave munchies and they won’t want to miss getting a hot dog at Tony Paco’s, just off the 1-75. This neighbourhood eatery has been serving up Hungarian style food since 1932, including crunchy sweet and hot pickles, deep fried pickles, chili, cabbage rolls and its famous hot dogs. This is the place made famous by M*A*S*H star Jamie Farr a.k.a. Klinger (a native Toledoan) who mentioned Tony Paco’s hot dogs in several episodes of the 1970’s TV sit-com.

Now, Jamie Farr’s autograph is on a cased hot dog bun in the café — along with hundreds of other celebrity autographed buns on the walls. From musicians like Billy Joel to American presidents and Hollywood stars, the café has captured popular history in this unique manner. “It’s fun to work here,” says Shannon Brzezowski. “You never know who will walk in the doors!” If you are really hungry, opt for the MOAD: Mother Of All Dogs which is the equivalent of four dogs, topped with chili. Washed down with Tony Paco’s Anniversary Ale, it is just the ticket for a classic American café experience.

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The West Side Market has been catering to the appetites of locals and tourists since 1840 Once in Cleveland, plan to give yourself at least half a day at the Rock Hall. Situated downtown near the shores of Lake Erie, the Rock Hall has six levels that tell the story of rock and roll music from the early influences to hip-hop. There are special displays on Elvis, the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Michael Jackson, the Who, the Supremes, Beyoncé, Chuck Berry, Pink Floyd. Theatres show films on the history of rock and also present multi-media highlight presentations on inductees. Special exhibits into 2015 include a first-person narrative of the personal story of Paul Simon’s life, which is not to be missed.

To put the popularity of the Rock Hall into perspective: 400,000 people visit it annually according to Carl Harp, the Hall’s communications co-ordinator. In 2015 they expect to welcome their 10 millionth guest. Yet, because of the spacious layout, it doesn’t seem crowded.

To fuel your visit to Cleveland, a trip to the historic West Side Market is a must.

Operating since 1840, this is the home to

№ 51 | January/February 2015

everything from delicious warm, soft pita sandwiches at Steve’s Gyros to classic cannoli at Theresa’s. One entire hall sells produce while a second, larger hall, offers meats, cheeses, noodles, baked goods, coffee, perogies, olive oils, popcorn, Scottish pastries and so much more.

Perhaps this market is the inspiration for internationally recognized restaurant owner Chef Michael Symon. The Iron Chef of the Food Network operates Lola downtown and Lolita in funky Tremont.

The modern Mediterranean bistro with an open kitchen and wood-burning oven serves spectacular plates including house cured meat trays of salami, chorizo, pickled veggies and quail eggs. Symon prides himself on sourcing local ingredients.

The charcuterie board at Lolita, Michael Symon’s restaurant in the chic Tremont neighbourhood Even in early winter he had beets from a garden program in Tremont called Refugee Response. Modern Italian takes on quail were delicious and diners are encouraged to eat with their hands. This sleek and fun spot is not to be missed and worth the drive from downtown.

Culture lovers will flock to Cleveland’s Museum of Art near Case Western Reserve University. The museum has free admission and is located in the University Circle area, where the Cleveland Orchestra makes its home in Severance Hall. Nearby are some interesting restaurants including L’Albatros Brasserie + Bar. This French restaurant, operated by Chef Zack Bruell, offers contemporary takes on cassoulets, fish, chicken and more. The barley with seasonal vegetables was a nice change of pace and very flavourful.

L’Albatros restaurant offers a contemporary take on classic French cuisine

№ 51 | January/February 2015

If it’s not music, food or culture that brings you to Cleveland it very likely will be professional sports entertainment. The city streets are lined with stadiums and arenas, where the uber-loyal fans of the Cavaliers of the National Basketball Association, the Browns of the National Football League and the Indians of Major League Baseball come to support their teams.

Yes, Cleveland! What a blast! A very worth­ while rockin’ road trip to beat the blahs! www.thisiscleveland.com www.rockhall.com www.ClevelandArt.org

Reserve Now for

VALENTINE’S DAY!

Join us for

Londonlicious Jan. 23–Feb. 8

“Enjoy consistently outstanding Italian and Mediterranean cuisine enhanced by local and seasonal ingredients.”

JANE ANTONIAK is a culinary road tripper for eatdrink magazine by weekend and the Manager, Communications & Media Relations at King’s University College, London.

BRUCE FYFE is a regular contributing photographer for eatdrink magazine and Librarian at Weldon Library, Western University, London. .

Destination for the food lover Enjoy a unique night out at a Jill’s Table Cooking Class.

117 King Street

across from Budweiser Gardens

519-434-2272 (CASA) www.lacasaristorante.com

OPEN

Monday–Saturday Lunch & Dinner

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Feb. 14 Saturday, OPEN

Robbie Burns Day Saturday, Jan. 24

Always Available for Caterings!

115 King Street, London, ON jillstable.ca 519-645-1335

Closed January & February except as noted above.

Reopening in March.

Reservations Recommended.

519.238.6224 42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend www.finearestaurant.com

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

The BUZZ ... new and notable

H

ow’s your appetite for winter? Getting full? Don’t give up yet — there’s plenty to enjoy around our region; restaurants, breweries, and inns, as well as tourism associations, are offering events and special winter promotions aplenty. Our regional tourism websites have great ideas, and here are some from eatdrink: The tenth annual London Wine & Food Show moves to the Western Fair Agriplex January 15–17, for a bigger, tastier show. The larger venue and streamlined ticketing should help everyone have a great time sipping, chatting, tasting and exploring. Tickets are only $10 for opening night on Thursday (5pm–10:30pm), Friday is again the popular Ladies Night (5pm–10:30pm), and Saturday is an all-day affair (noon–10:30pm). Remember that the free seminars fill up early, so check the schedules as soon as you arrive at the show.

And please drop by the eatdrink booth to enter our draw and say hello! www.londonwineandfoodshow.com Londonlicious will run January 23 to February 8 this year, with restaurants offering 2-course lunches ($15 or $20) and 3-course dinners ($25, $30, $35 & $40). Try new restaurants and indulge yourself with some extra nights out at a bargain price. For a list of participants and menus, go to www.londonlicious.ca.

The Habitual Chocolate micro-facility at Talbot and King is relocating back to its site at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market. The business produces a large variety of hand-crafted, single-origin chocolate that it retails by the bar and in drinking-chocolate form. In addition, they make a full line of fine confectionery and baker’s chocolate for culinary purposes. Swiss-trained lead chocolatier and pastry chef Philippe Lehner has purchased the business from owner Dave Cook. www.habitualchocolate.com Taste of Huron is running a special Winter Dining Program from February 18–28. Participants include Goderich’s Burdan’s Red Cat Farm & Bakery and Samuels Hotel, the Benmiller Inn & Spa, Bayfield’s Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro, Eddington’s of Exeter, Blyth’s Queens Bakery and Auburn’s

Robinson Maple Products. Enjoy a 3-course lunch for $10– $15 and 3-course dinners from $29–$39. www.tasteofhuron.ca Benmiller Inn and Spa in Goderich offers a Snowflake Package starting at $131 per person. That includes a special gift ($20 value) awaiting your arrival, over-night accommodations, a three-course à la carte dinner for two and a full Huron County breakfast in the morning. www.benmiller.ca Explore the restaurants and culinary experiences of Essex County during Winter Bites Restaurant Week from WindsorEats.

Indulge in 3-course meals at participating restaurants from Jan. 12–18 for only $10–$35. Over 25 restaurants serve up local cuisine and flavours from around the globe. www.windsoreats.com Take a drive to experience the Festival of Ice at participating Essex Pelee Island Coast Wineries, for an array of ice, snow and wine-filled activities. Follow the Wine Route to find ice sculptures, skating, bonfires, mulled wine, tours, food and best of all delicious Canadian Ice wine made in your backyard.

Admission is a canned food donation to the local food banks.

Also, you will be entered in a draw to win a gift basket featuring wine from all participating wineries. February 7–8, noon–5 pm.

Celebrate for three weekends in January as the Niagara Region is transformed into a wintry wonderland. Now in its 20th year, the Niagara Icewine Festival offers plenty for every taste, from elegant gala evenings to irresistible wine and food pairings and outdoor activities, from exploring Ice Street Villages to marshmallow roasting along the famed wine route. Dairy Farmers of Canada will present seminars featuring unique artisanal cheeses that complement the icewines. January 9-24. www.niagarawinefestival.com Dead Elephant Ale from St. Thomas' Railway City Brewing Company is now easier to buy. "With 80% of beer being purchased through the beer store, we have had many customers ask us if we were available at the Beer Store," notes Paul Corriveau. "Now we can simply reply 'Yes'." Although Railway City has been selling their Dead Elephant Ale in LCBO stores

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items!

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

throughout Ontario for 6 years, The Beer Store's “Pack-up” pricing allows customer savings with purchases of more than a single can. Dead Elephant Ale is available in singles, 4, 8, 16 or a case of 24. Railway City brews eight distinct brands of premium craft beer: Iron Spike (Blonde, Copper & Amber), Dead Elephant Ale, Canada Southern Draft, Honey Elixir, Black Coal Stout and, most recently, their Cranberry Festive Lager. They also brew monthly limited one-off beers featuring locally-grown ingredients. The Brewery features an onsite retail store with hourly tours and samples, 7 days a week. www.railwaycitybrewing.com If you enjoy preparing your meals with fresh local produce, and are looking for a little inspiration, visit Foodland Ontario’s website. As well as food facts, availability and nutrition guides, there are seasonal recipes, currently including Steamed Apple Maple Pudding, All Ontario Frittata .

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held February 21 at the London Convention Centre.

Join members of the Ontario Wine Society at Aroma International Restaurant’s Wine Room on January 27, for an inaugural tasting event. The evening begins at 6:30.

Contact OWSlondonchapter@rogers.com. for information and reservations. www.fginternational.com Wich is Wich is an upscale sandwich shop with an open kitchen, opening soon at 125 King Street (across from the Covent Garden Market). The 40-45 seat shop will offer dine in, grab & go, and catering services. Customers will be able to email their orders in and pick up orders. The business is the

The Telegraph House, a heritage inn in Port Stanley, is opening up its dining room on a limited part-time basis. The liquor license should arrive in the new year, when Jon and Vicci Coughlin will be offering dinner on Friday and Saturday nights. Enjoy Lake Erie Yellow Perch, Jon’s famous flat iron steak and daily specials. The Coughlins encourage BYOW (bring your own wine — commercially available only please).

Flying away this winter? On The Fly is a cozy café offering breakfast, lunch and dinner, located post-security at London Airport. Fully licenced, On the Fly is one of the newest regional restaurants to feature beer from Railway City Brewing Co.

Downtown London …

London City Council unanimously passed the boundary expansion of Downtown London, as of January 1, taking in Richmond Row and the surrounding area all the way to the north side of Oxford St. and to the Thames River. Richmond Row will retain its unique identity under the Downtown London umbrella. www.downtownlondon.ca For over 30 years, the Chinese Canadian National Council has celebrated Chinese New Year with the London community. As part of its strategic plan to reach out to a larger community and raise awareness of the Chinese arts, culture and heritage, Dragon Gala has become an annual fundraising event supporting local and international charitable organizations. This year’s gala will be

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

432 Richmond St. at Carling • London www.davidsbistro.ca www.davidsbistro.ca

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brain-child of Elaine Sawyer (on-air radio show host) and her son chef Josh Sawyer (formerly of the Byron Freehouse).

The Crystal Lounge is close to opening on Richmond Street, across from the Grand Theatre in the old Maggie’s Supper & Jazz Club location, beside the Church Key Bistro-Pub. The Big Mouth Deli has opened at 397 Clarence just south of Dundas. The menu includes Montreal smoked meat sandwiches, homemade soups, and salads. www.BigMouthDeli.ca Every Monday is comedy night at The Poacher’s Arms, when many stand-up comedians hit the stage for the evening. Every Tuesday at Poacher’s is Trivia night. www.poachersarms.ca

Your love of all things Italian begins at

Stratford …

Explore “Nouveau Ontario” cuisine in the beautiful kitchen of The Bruce. Participate in interactive cooking classes, creating a four-course meal, along with complementary wines.

Hands-on and designed for any age or ability, aprons and towels are provided, just bring comfortable shoes and your passion for cooking. Classes are offered only on 4 Sundays, starting January 11. www.thebruce.ca Bradshaws kicks off their annual January Sale on Friday January 9th at 9:30am. This is the venerable Stratford retailer's only sale of the year, and you'll find incredible deals. For the first three days of the sale, almost the entire store is at least 20% off, with some items at 30– 75% off. Special deals are arranged with Bradshaws suppliers, so think ahead for future birthday, anniversary, shower and wedding gifts. Coffee and snacks will be served to keep your energy levels high! The sale lasts the entire month. www.bradshawscanada.com Come out for a night of fun at The Parlour Inn. On January 17th, at Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre: Survivor, Murder in the Outback, the actors are right there amongst the audience. The story unfolds throughout dinner and is a great event for parties or couples. Another mystery awaits your solution on February 6, The Valentines Day Masseur. www.theparlour.ca Celebrate the Burns! Spend an evening at Mercer Hall, honouring Scotland’s most famous son: poet, author, soldier, and statesman.

And eat haggis of course! Begin at the bar with a complimentary themed cocktail and snacks. Then proceed to the private dining room for a sit down dinner. January 24th. www.mercerhall.com Savour Stratford offers two cheese-related Tutored Tastings at the Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop. On January 24, Cider and Cheese is an opportunity to discover something new for your palate. January 31 is Italian Wine & Cheese Pairing. In February, the Tutored Tastings will be Scotch and Chocolate, Soft & Supple Cheese meets Fortified Libation, and Spanish Wines & Cheese Pairings. www.themilkywhey.com Stratford Chefs School is holding the Canadian Guest Chef Dinner Series in February at The Prune Restaurant. All dinners are $65 per person and include wine pairings. www. stratfordchefschool.com

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

CheeseFEST is a complimentary networking social event that brings together dairy producers, workers in commercial industry, and consumers. It takes place on the first evening of the Canadian Dairy XPO (CDX). Features will include a massive cheese buffet featuring cow, sheep, goat, Ayrshire and water buffalo cheeses, a world-renowned cheese carver, local wines and micro brews (cash bar). February 4, at The Rotary Complex. www.dairyxpo.com

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

Mercer Hall’s Supper Club attendees have fun with their food! February 28th will see the Roaring Twenties revived à la The Great Gatsby. Themed cocktails and snacks will be followed by a dinner of four-plus courses. Themed attire is encouraged — dress to impress! www.mercerhall.com

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

travel

Direct to The Big Apple A foodie getaway to New York City

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

F

eel like a Korean-Mexican fusion burrito, loaded with spicy beef, kimchi, rice and beans for lunch?

Followed by a slice of creamy cheesecake? Maybe a late night slice of pizza with tangy tomato, mozzarella, olive oil and fresh basil? No place does street food better than New York — where 10,000 food carts and trucks serve up everything from jerk chicken to waffles for very reasonable prices.

That kind of lunch is just a few hours away, with the recent launch of United Airlines direct service linking London and Newark airports. You can leave London at 6 a.m.,be on the ground in Newark by 7:30, hop on a New Jersey transit train, and 20 minutes later you could be in Penn Station, in the heart of Manhattan. Grab a hand-rolled bagel at Pick A Bagel on 8th Avenue & 53rd Street and you’re set for fun in the Big Apple!

The new flight service allows for an easy get-away to some new foodie adventures over two or three days. The return flight to London leaves Newark at 8 p.m., so travellers can have three full days in New York — which was plenty for us as we packed in two culinary walking tours, a Broadway play, a TV show taping and a walk through Central Park. There may have been a little shopping too!

Central Park Home base after leaving Penn Station was the newly renovated Row NYC Hotel, 700 8th Avenue in the heart of Broadway, two blocks from Times Square and within walking distance of Central Park and several TV studios. This Hollywood themed hotel was formerly The Milford but re-opened as Row NYC after a two-year, $140 million renovation to the 1331 rooms, bar and lobby.

Claiming to be “more New York than New York”, the hotel features wall murals of famous New York scenes, including the food carts!

The breakfast pastries are beyond fabulous — made by some pretty famous Manhattan chefs like Francois Payard. The late Hungry customers line up for lunch at the Korilla food truck

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night Neapolitan hand-stretched pizzas are amazing. Row NYC has very clean, although small, rooms (but who comes to New York to spend time in the room?). The staff are super friendly and combined with reasonable (for New York) rates, this is a great location for a quick get-away visit.

Even though the subways and trains are easy to manoeuvre, the best way to experience New York is on foot — especially if you are searching for interesting bites and beverages in unique neighbourhoods.

If you truly want a Korean-Mexican fusion burrito, jerk chicken and the best Halal food then the Food Cart walking tour given by Turnstile Tours is not only tasty, filling and fun but also provides an interesting history of street food in New York. Over several hours our guide, Brian Hoffman, (eatthisny. com) a food blogger, actor and street food fanatic gives a passionate overview of the community of food carts and trucks. He also promises “no hot dogs, pretzels or chestnuts” along the way.

A second culinary walking tour with New York City Urban Adventures took us deep into the Lower East Side where, over three hours, we visited and tasted our way through Chinatown, Little Italy, Nolita and the Bowery. This tour, Tenements, Tales and Tastes, was expertly led by Nikki Padilla who not only spoke Italian in Little Italy but greatly respected the story of immigration, being an Italian/Puerto Rican herself. On this tour we saw a Chinese funeral procession, a bride buying flowers outside New York City Hall, and avant-garde fashions in SoHo and along the way enjoyed piping fresh pork dumplings (the best deal in the city at five for $1!) prosciutto and fresh mozzarella, creamy baked knish from a 1910 shop, and oven-fresh pretzels from Loreley Biergarten.

All this walking and sampling explains why this trip to New York was not about destination dining but instead about touring and tasting. ‘Though we did wind our way to a table one night, for a “Woody Allen” sandwich at Carnegie Deli on 7th Ave at 53rd. The sandwich “made famous” in Broadway Danny Rose is a huge, as in really huge, tower of pastrami and corned beef on rye. This must be shared! With a side of light, crispy onion rings — we were glad we were doing a lot of walking — this was a delectable treat along with a mug of Brooklyn lager.

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

The delightful thing about New York is that something new awaits around every corner. Whether it’s a stroll through the impressive New York Public Library or a visit to Strawberry Fields in Central Park, no matter which direction you head you will find something of interest. In many ways, the trip can’t be planned, as plans quickly change in the city.

One thing is for certain, you won’t go home hungry.

We departed Penn Station, with bagels and lox in our bags, around 5 p.m. and within three stops were back at Newark airport for the flight home. It is so lovely to take one direct flight back to London, having only a few people in line in customs, and be back in your car home by 10 p.m. Whirlwind?

Yes. But isn’t that what going to New York is all about? That, and a great bagel. And a Korean-Mexican burrito. And some prosciutto. And those dumplings….

One of the few original Jewish restaurants remaining in the Lower East Side, this knishery has been operating since 1890 At times one must take a break and sit in New York. Why not be entertained at the same time? Free tickets are available for TV show tapings and we managed to get two online (in advance) for The Late Show with David Letterman. On occasion, tickets are given away outside the Ed Sullivan Theatre.

This is an excellent show that features great music by the Paul Schaffer Orchestra. I had to cheer for the guy from my hometown of Thunder Bay! Plus, it was fun to hang out prior to the taping in The Three Monkey’s Bar, where local beers were on tap.

Given ROW NYC Hotel’s location, a Broadway play was another natural choice. Just around the corner from the hotel is the Neil Simon Theatre where Sting’s new musical, The Last Ship, opened in late October. If you like Sting you will really enjoy this musical inspired by his childhood in Wallsend, England. He grew up near the shipyards and the musical takes us back to a time of change in industrial England. Sting himself is going to guest perform in the musical in early January 2015.

www.flylondon.ca www.rownyc.com www.turnstiletours.com www.newyorkcityurbanadventures.com www.urbanoyster.com JANE ANTONIAK is a culinary travel writer for eatdrink who is glad to do a lot of walking when tasting her way through a city. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, King’s University College.

BRUCE FYFE was particularly pleased to take photos of the John Lennon memorial at Central Park. He is a regular travel photographer for eatdrink and a full-time Librarian, Weldon Library, Western U.

ROW NYC offers contemporary accommodations conveniently located in the heart of Manhattan

№ 51 | January/February 2015

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

in the garden

Sprouts: Super Foods, Super Fun!

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

A

s winter takes hold, we crave things that are good for us.

Our senses direct us to choose healthier foods, and salads take on a whole new relevance. The availability of fresh and local becomes more challenging, but not impossible!

Sprouts are an economical, easy to grow and nutritious option.

Sprouts are germinated seeds in their infancy. They are consumed before they develop any leaves. For this reason, they don’t require any special light or temperature to grow at this early stage.

Once sprouted, and ready to eat - usually in only 4 days - they can be refrigerated for a few days and stay very fresh.

Consider sprouts as a new ingredient in your greens or fresh food arsenal. Yes, they can be eaten by themselves, but even better, they add texture and flavour to a variety of dishes. On their own they do have an earthy flavour profile. It is important to taste and appreciate different types of sprouts. This tasting will help define the quantity and type you want to add to other dishes. Use your imagination, as the possibilities are unlimited. Small seed varieties (Alfalfa, Broccoli, Kale, Clover) sprouted, are very fine and are delicious used in wraps, sandwiches and smoothies, dolloped into cream soups, stirred into egg

Crunchy Bean Mix

Salad with Crunchy Bean Mix

dishes, or in salads. Larger seed selections (Peas, Beans, Lentils) offer more texture and crunch, and are especially great dressed in a salad. Sprouted Peas have a delicious, fresh pea taste and crunch. You don’t want to ‘cook’ your sprouts, as they will lose a great deal of their nutritional value.

After trying many sprout­ ers, a favou­ rite one is the ‘Easy Sprout’.

It’s patented design makes sprouting truly easy and fun. With an inner seed Sprouts flavour profiles include this Spicy Lentil (left) and Broccoli Brassica Mix

№ 51 | January/February 2015

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The patented design of “Easy Sprout” makes growing sprouts simple and fun

chamber, the unit allows for air circulation for the seeds while sprouting, and produces perfect sprouts every time. The size is also very convenient to produce a good amount per batch, and it doesn’t take up much room. Many of us have tried the mason jar method and if you are comfortable with a very exacting routine, it works just fine. The convenience of Easy Sprout allows you to process two batches at once, which helps to maintain a constant supply.

When choosing your sprouting seed, begin with fresh, healthy, organic seed.

Consider that you are going to eat this seed and you want to know its pedigree! One company, Mumm’s Sprouting Seeds, is a Canadian company offering a great selection of single seed varieties and seed mixes. They also only sell certified organic seed. This means non-GMO seed. A popular selection of Mumm’s Seed is offered at our booth at Western Fair Farmer’s Market.

Sprouts are a super-food. While Broccoli sprouts or the brassica family are considered to be the most powerful, nutritionally

speaking, Alfalfa sprouts have a high antioxidant capacity. Each family of seed offers specific health benefits that may be helpful for you or your family. However, it’s important to remember that they are all very good for us and each also offers different flavour experiences. Enjoy the variety of seeds or seed mixes offered to keep your interest “fresh.” For more information on the health benefits visit www.sprouting.com, Mumm’s Sprouting Seeds site.

Although the use of sprouts as a food source for man is as old as man’s use of seeds, it is only in recent times that science has begun to unravel the chemistry of a sprouting seed, and its potential significance in both human and animal nutrition.

Although a dry seed is characterized by a remarkably low metabolic rate, just moistening of the seed triggers tremendous and complex changes.

Anyone who enjoys gardening will enjoy ‘growing’ sprouts. Any cook will also appreciate the freshness of growing your own and the variety of flavours. Children also really like the idea that they can help produce food — good food, for the family.

It has been a popular project choice that starts families on a path to better eating.

Grow your own food on your counter this winter. Enjoy your sprouts and your experience.

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, and at various gardening events around the region.

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wine

An EPIC Wine Tasting At the London Wine & Food Show

By GARY KILLOPS

W

ineries from Lake Erie North Shore will be uncorking their passion at the 10th annual London Wine & Food Show at Western Fair this January. This will be the fourth year the group of wineries, known as Essex Pelee Island Coast or EPIC wineries have brought their wines to the London/ Middlesex market.

“The proximity between London and Essex County makes it close enough to make a day trip out of it,” explains Melissa Muscedere of Muscedere Vineyards. Tom O’Brien, owner of Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards agrees, “London is close to EPIC wine country. We want the folks of London to sample our wine, then come visit us.”

The wineries of Lake Erie North Shore are less than a two-hour drive from London.

Leave the house around 9 a.m., and arrive in the region around 11, when many of the wineries open for business. Visit three or four wineries and be back home around 7 in the evening. The perfect day trip!

Jody Goslin, Master Taster at Oxley Estate Winery and usually the one pouring Oxley’s wines at the London Wine & Food Show says, “This is our third year attending. Every year, appreciation for our wine region continues to expand. More and more people in London and surrounding area are learning just how amazing our wines are, and how fabulous our region is.” Goslin goes on to say “people at the London Wine & Food Show become interested in our story, and then they visit our winery the following summer. That’s just as much our reward as it is theirs.”

Oxley Estate Winery will be showcasing their latest wine release called

“Ripper Red” at the show.

This wine is a fascinating blend of Regent and Merlot grapes. Dark ripe fruit notes with hints of vanilla, a full-bodied red wine offering a savoury lip smacking finish. A must try at the show!

The history of the Regent grape at Oxley is interesting. This dark-skinned varietal, originally developed in Germany, was the first wine bottled by Oxley. Regent is not well-known by Ontario wine drinkers and Oxley has a plan to change that. Regent offers deep dark colour, soft velvety tannins and fruit forward notes to the wine.

Muscedere Vineyards will be pouring several soon-to-be-released wines at the Wine & Food Show. They will offer tastings of their 2011 Syrah, 2012 Pinot Noir and 2013 Sauvignon Blanc. After spending a couple of years in the barrel, the Syrah has been aging in stainless steel tanks waiting to be bottled.

I tasted this wine with Rob Muscedere this past August and we both agree that this is the best Syrah yet from the family vineyard.

Classic white pepper notes, cherry fruit and a spicy finish. The 2013 Sauvignon Blanc offers intense citrus and gooseberry notes. It’s a rich and complex wine with impeccable acidity.

Cooper’s Hawk Vine­ yards will be pouring several interesting wines at the show that will be showcased at LCBO boutique stores in late September.

Talon Red, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Baco, Cabernet Sauvignon and Marechal Foch, is a complex, well-structured wine that demands attention. Layered aromas

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

and flavours of dark fruit, leather, cedar, vanilla and pepper spice may be discovered in a glass of this wine. This wine has been in the bottle a little over a year and is drinking well right now.

Talon White is a captivating blend of Auxerrios, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Savagnin, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Compelling aromas in the glass invite a taste.

Intriguing and intricate citrus fruit and flowery notes balanced with by lively acidity that supports a long finish. A great sipping wine!

Viewpointe Estate Winery will be offering two new wine releases that will also be available at the LCBO in February. Its 2011 Big Bluff Red is a compelling blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Claudia Taylor, winemaker at Viewpointe, says the winery will also offer tastings of its 2013 Big Bluff White.

Taylor describes this wine as a luscious blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Auxerrois. In addition to the new wine releases, Viewpointe Estate Winery will be pouring several of its award-winning Cabernet Francs.

The London Wine & Food Show has allowed wine lovers to discover the wineries of Lake Erie North Shore. The wineries suggest a visit to the region over the weekend of February

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7th and 8th for their annual Festival of Ice, an EPIC weekend wine tour where each winery will present a unique winter experience, from ice-skating, a snowman-building contest and professional ice sculpture carvings. Wines from the region will be paired with local culinary delights.

GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

BEER MATTERS beer matters

Letting the Smoke Get In Your Beer Beer & Cigar Pairing

By THE MALT MONK

A

t the risk of offending some, I’m writing about my two favourite weaknesses: craft beers and handcrafted cigars. One of the emerging trends in crafted beer circles is pairings with hand-crafted cigars. If you enjoy a fine cigar with a brandy or port, you will probably enjoy that cigar with an intense artisanal ale as well. When you get a great brew matched with the right cigar, it’s a sensory banquet.

I don’t pretend to be a cigar expert, nor will I recommend specific types — cigar taste is as divergent as beer styles. I’ll leave that to the cigar magazines or your local cigar store owner’s recommendations. However, you only need the basics of cigar configurations and flavours to get started.

Size Counts

Cigar length is relevant to the character of the smoke. Length ranges from 4 to over 7 inches and width (ring gauge) range from .25 inch to over an inch in diameter. Cigars with smaller diameters provide a more intense smoke. Conversely, cigars with larger diameters produce smoke that is fuller in flavour. When pairing cigars to beer, the general rule of thumb is this: the lighter and more subtle the character of the beer, the smaller and more lightly coloured the cigar should be.

Wrap That Rascal

The cigar’s wrapper is a large part of the cigar’s flavour/aroma character. Typically, the darker the wrapper, the more full-bodied, earthy and robust the cigar, and conversely, the lighter the wrapper’s colour, the lighter the taste will be.

The wrapper types you need to know about range from light to dark as follows:

№ 51 | January/February 2015

• Candela (light green, herbal, herbaceous, leafy); • Claro (light yellow/brown, toasty, woody, light spice); • Colorado Claro (light brown, toasty-cocoa); • Colorado (medium brown, roasty, cocoacoffee); • Colorado Maduro (fudge brown, roasted cocoa nibs); • Maduro (dark porter brown); • Oscuro (blackish brown, deeply earthy and robust).

Stuffing Matters

Blended filler tobaccos create a wide variety of distinct impressions when combusted. A complex conjugation of flavours is derived from fillers blended from various growing regions, curing styles and climates. Here’s a short, rough summary: • Dominican (generally a milder, toasty, even sweet tobacco, my favourite fill to pair with a Colorado wrapper and light and amber ales, even some fruit beers); • Honduran (slightly more full-bodied or spicy than Dominican, my go-to filler for imperial wheat ales and hellerbock); • Havana (medium- to full-bodied, goes well with most dark or tawny Trappist ales); • Jamaica (mild, lighter than Dominican, a spicy filler for specialty ales like barreled strong and spiced ales); • Maduro (dark, deeply cured tobacco ranges from sweet and mild to powerfully rich and heavy with earthy-chocolatecoffee flavours, a natural for Imperial stouts, double porters, smoked porters, coffee stouts and dunkler doppelbocks).

Matching

Pairing the subtle and powerful flavours of craft beer and cigars isn’t much different than with

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foods. You want either complimentary or simi­ lar (sympathetic) flavour pairings, seeking a harmonious relationship between the flavours of your smoke and the malt and hops, which are all competing for your palate and nose.

Neither should overpower the other. Common ground can be your best friend but pairings based on contrasting flavours work well too.

One of my favourite pairings is a Madurowrapped Reyes classic and a Trappist dubbel.

The roasty coffee notes coming from the cigar contrast with the dark ripe fruits and toffee

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

tones found in most big ales. The contrasting flavours enhance the character of the other.

Taste, Don’t Inhale, Sip, Don’t Gulp Remember that this is an act of pure sensation. Draw on the cigar slowly and run the smoke over your tongue and through the nose, then sip and savour the brew. You need the time and space to relish this guilty

Malt Monk’s Pick o’ the Month

A miraculous thing happened for me this year: my favourite beer style and my favourite craft brewer got together and produced what is (for me) the best artisanal dark weizenbock this side of the Atlantic.

My go-to beer was Schneider Aventinus, an authentic Munich dunkler doppelbock weizen. But it now has a challenger in Side Launch Brewing’s Colossus Dopplebock Dunkelweizen. Michael Hancock, formerly of Denison’s fame, has really come into his prime as a brewing artisan and one taste of this delicious creation affirms that. The pour from

pleasure — cigar smoking is not really an indoor activity! I enjoy a cigar and brew pairing on my patio, or at the campsite, or after a great meal with a dark dessert beer in front of the fireplace. You have to discover that special place for yourself, just as you must find a favourite cigar that sets the whole experience up. Cheers and enjoy your search.

the tap puts a turbid cola-coloured brew in the glass with a puffy offwhite cap which lasts well. Aromas and tastes of clove, succulent fruit and bubble gum meet roasty-cocoa and coffee tones, with a dry, clean finish. What a brew! I have reserved a fine Puros Indios Pyramid to enjoy with a bottle of this fine Weizenbock on my next ice fishing trip.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

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cookbooks

The Skinnytaste Cookbook

By Gina Homolka with Heather K. Jones Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

H

ave you ever indulged in so much rich holiday food that you crave lettuce for days afterwards? Now that it’s all over I can admit that I’ve hit my official fruitcake limit (don’t tell anyone, I love the stuff ). Fortunately, I was saved from a week of iceberg blandness by a copy of The Skinnytaste Cookbook. (Gina Homolka with Heather K. Jones, R.D.; Clarkson Potter; 2014) Gina Homolka started the popular blog skinnytaste.com in 2008. Since then, she’s been combining her graphic arts background with her love of food that doesn’t add to her waistline. Her approach is based on the Weight Watchers philosophy that healthy eating is a lifestyle rather than a diet, and allows everything in moderation. She avoids processed foods in favour of fresh, seasonal ingredients and practices portion control.

These changes allow food lovers to eat healthily while still enjoying food.

In the introduction, she addresses all the reasons we give for not cooking our own healthy meals. Then she busts them wide open. The Skinnytaste Cookbook includes a key that lets you easily identify recipes that are suitable for vegetarian or gluten-free diets. They also show us which recipes are quick to make, freezerfriendly or suitable for the slow cooker. There she goes, taking away those excuses.

It is also essential that skinnytaste recipes work for the whole family. A plan that involves cooking two dinners every day isn’t likely to last very long. This isn’t “diet” food.

In addition to over 100 great recipes, Gina teams up with Reg­ istered Dietician Heather K. Jones

to offer nutritional advice and food facts that will simplify healthy eating.

Jones has a holistic approach to health.

She understands that food choices are about a lot more than just groceries.

Photographer Penny De Los Santos did a great job with the pictures in this book.

The first time I browsed through it, I marked at least a half-dozen recipes that looked delectable. I didn’t find a lot of dishes that were new to me but I found a lot of favourites that were considerably healthier than their traditional recipes.

The first dish I tried was the Sweet ‘n’ Spicy Sriracha-Glazed Salmon. I was so pleased to find a delicious salmon dish that wasn’t glazed with maple syrup. Don’t get me wrong, I love the stuff but if you watch any cooking shows on television, you’d think that Canadians eat nothing but salmon, blueberries and maple syrup. With a side of “Canadian” bacon.

Homolka’s recipe uses honey for sweetness but the sriracha is the key for me.

The spicy sauce balances the rich fattiness of the fish and is perfectly countered by the Gina Homolka honey.

Too-Good-To-Be-True Baked Potato Soup is one of skinnytaste.com’s most popular recipes and it’s easy to see why. This tastes freakishly like a decadent, loaded baked potato

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but has all the comfort of a bowl of soup.

I’ve always been a bit wary of soup that’s supposed to taste like some other food - if I wanted pizza, I’d eat pizza - but this one really worked well for me.

There are a few salads in this book that are so hearty, the name salad seems misleading.

The BLT Salad with Avocado, and the Buffalo Chicken Salad seem so much like pub grub that I wished the author had included a beer in the calorie count.

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There’s much to love in The Skinnytaste Cookbook. Most of all, I’m grateful to the author for giving me back the chance to eat deliciously real food even after the overindulgence of the holiday season. It feels like I found an extra Christmas gift hidden under the back of the tree.

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Recipes courtesy of The Skinnytaste Cookbook (Gina Homolka with Heather K. Jones, R.D.; Clarkson Potter; 2014)

Bonus Recipe from the Skinnytaste.com website, an excellent resource for recipes and more.

№ 51 | January/February 2015

One Pot Cheesy Turkey Taco Chili Mac Serves 8 Turkey chili with taco seasoning, beans, and pasta shells topped with cheese – this is pure comfort in a bowl and it’s packed with protein and fiber so it fills you up. Bonus points for only dirtying one pot!

FOR THE HOMEMADE TACO SEASONING 1 ½ tsp garlic powder 1 ½ tsp cumin 1 tsp kosher salt 1 ½ tsp chili powder 1 ½ tsp paprika ½ tsp oregano FOR THE CHILI 1.3 lb 93% lean ground turkey 1 medium onion, chopped 3 cloves minced garlic 1 red bell pepper, chopped 10 oz can rotel tomatoes with green chilies 14.5 oz can pink or red beans, drained 8 oz tomato sauce ½ can (8 oz) fat-free refried beans 1 (15 oz can) reduced sodium chicken broth* 1 ¾ cups water 8 oz gluten-free shells* (or whole wheat) ¾ cup part-skim shredded sharp cheddar cheese* 2 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped 2 tbsp chopped scallions

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*Check labels for gluten-free Heat a large Dutch oven or pot with a fitted lid over medium-high heat and spray with oil, brown the turkey breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks. When cooked through, add the onions, garlic, pepper and taco seasoning; cook 2-3 minutes.

Add the canned tomatoes, beans, tomato sauce, refried beans, chicken broth and water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer about 15 minutes. Adjust salt to taste.

Stir in the uncooked pasta and simmer uncovered over medium heat until al dente, about 6 minutes or according to package directions.

Remove the pot from heat and top with the cheese, cover and let sit for about 2-3 minutes, until the cheese melts. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh cilantro and scallions.

Per Serving (1 generous cup) Calories 341 Protein 24 g Fat 9 g Sugar 4 g Carbohydrate 40 g Sodium 893 mg Fiber 8.5 g Cholesterol 60 mg

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Sweet ‘n’ Spicy Sriracha-Glazed Salmon Serves 4 This is one of my favorite ways to prepare salmon. The marinade in this recipe is the perfect combination of spicy, sweet, and savoury - in fact, I also love to use it with steaks or chicken. The Sriracha sauce (aka rooster sauce) is a must, and you can find it in the Asian section of most supermarkets.

¼ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce (or tamari* for gluten-free) 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce (or to taste) 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 pound wild salmon fillet, cut into 4 (4-ounce) pieces 1 ½ teaspoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons finely chopped scallions for garnish *Read the label to be sure this product is gluten-free.

In a 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag, combine the soy sauce, honey, vinegar, Sriracha, ginger, and garlic. Add the salmon, toss to coat evenly, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 8 hours, turning the fish once.

Remove the salmon from the bag, reserving the marinade. Heat a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat and add the sesame oil. Rotate the pan to coat the bottom evenly and add the salmon. Cook until one side of the fish is browned, about 2 minutes.

Flip the salmon and cook until the other side browns, 2 more minutes.

Reduce the heat to low and pour in the reserved marinade. Cover and cook until the fish is cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

Place a piece of salmon on each of 4 serving plates and sprinkle with the scallions.

Per Serving (1 Piece) Calories 229 Fat 8.5 G Saturated Fat 1.5 G Cholesterol 51 Mg Carbohydrate 12 G

Fiber 0.5G Protein 26 G Sugars 9 G Sodium 587 Mg

PERFECT PAIRINGS This is perfect served over brown rice with Roasted Sesame Green Beans (page 272). For a fantastic, quick, low-carb option, I make zucchini noodles. Use a spiralizer or mandoline fitted with a julienne blade to cut the zucchini into spaghetti-like strands, then sauté them with a little sesame oil and garlic for 2 minutes.

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

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Too-Good-To-Be-True Baked Potato Soup Serves 5 This soup is one of my most popular recipes on Skinnytaste.

It offers everything you love about a baked potato in soup form! In fact, a fan once described it as a “warm bowl of awesomeness.” You can totally enjoy it without the guilt because it’s soooo much lighter than a baked potato. That’s because I hide some cauliflower in there, which gives the great taste and texture for fewer calories.

2 medium russet (baking) potatoes, about 6 ounces each 3 ½ cups (16 ounces) cauliflower florets (from 1 small head) 1 ½ cups Swanson 33% less sodium chicken broth* 1 ½ cups 1% reduced-fat milk ½ cup light sour cream 6 tablespoons chopped fresh chives ¾ teaspoon kosher salt Freshly cracked black pepper 10 tablespoons shredded reduced-fat sharp cheddar cheese 3 slices center-cut bacon, cooked and crumbled *Read the label to be sure this product is gluten-free.

Pierce the potatoes all over with a fork and microwave on high for 5 minutes.

Turn them over and microwave until tender, 3 to 5 minutes longer. (Alternatively, bake at 400° F for 1 hour or until tender.) Let cool. When cool enough to handle, peel and coarsely chop the potatoes.

Set a steamer basket in a large pot and fill with about 1 inch of water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add the cauliflower, cover, and steam until tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Drain, remove the steamer basket, and return the cauliflower to the pot.

Set the pot over medium heat and add the broth, milk, and potatoes. Bring to a boil. Use an immersion blender to purée the soup until smooth. Add the sour cream, 3 tablespoons

of the chives and season with the salt and black pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until thick and creamy, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat. Ladle the soup into 5 soup bowls. Top each with 2 tablespoons of cheese, and divide the remaining chives and the bacon among them. Serve hot.

Per Serving (1 Generous Cup) Calories 200 Fiber 3.5G Fat 7 G Protein 14 G Saturated Fat 3 G Sugars 6 G Cholesterol 17 Mg Sodium 323 Mg Carbohydrate 23 G

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books

A Comedian Stands Up for Food Food: A Love Story by Jim Gaffigan Review by DARIN COOK

S

tand-up comedian Jim Gaffigan may not be a chef, or even know how to cook much of anything outside of a microwave, but that shouldn’t make his opinions in Food: A Love Story (Crown Archetype, 2014, $31.00) any less reliable.

He has a passion for food equivalent to any gastronome, even though his tastes tend to be less haute cuisine and more hot dog. His enthusiasm is evident in statements such as: “A world without cheeseburgers is not a reality I want to partake in,” and “It is a known fact that it is impossible to eat quality Mexican food and not be in a good mood afterward.”

Gaffigan insists that he is not part of foodie culture, and he simply claims to be an eatie, which he defines as someone who continually looks for the best meal in the near vicinity. He admits, “I often find myself thinking about what I will eat at my next meal while I’m in the middle of eating a meal.” He doesn’t have the stamina of foodies searching for the next best dish, and his only research comes from his own meals with food that he really likes. As a comedian travelling the country, he has eaten everywhere and has devised a United States map based on food, with regions such as Coffeeland on the Pacific Northwest coast and Mexican Foodland in the Southwest states.

Although he does address a wide spectrum of cuisine, Gaffigan prefers junk food. Super Bowl Sunday is not so much about football, as a culmination of all the unhealthy food in one sitting. He approaches

food with wild abandon.

When eating a pint of ice cream at home, he always tosses the lid in the garbage. He knows he won’t be needing it because he’s not a quitter and won’t stop until the carton is empty. He approaches an All-You-Can-Eat buffet as a challenge, and doesn’t want to let the buffet down by not eating enough. He feels bad if he leaves when he’s full because that would make it an All-You-Want-To-Eat buffet. Or picking only a few healthy options off the buffet would make it an All-You-Should-Eat buffet. Only by emphasizing the CAN does he get his money’s worth. He has such an attachment to pizza that he once considered a paternity test to see if two of his children were actually his own, after they told him that Chicago deep-dish pizza was weird because it was different than flat pizza.

Even though Gaffigan stresses that being slightly overweight gives him experience in the field, some readers may disagree with his assessments, given that he has no problem with pigs in a blanket, but has a strong dislike of all seafood: lobster and shrimp are too Jim Gaffigan close to bugs; fish are just too fishy tasting;

№ 51 | January/February 2015

using a hammer and a nutcracker to get meat out of a crab should be a red flag that it’s not worth the effort. But he does have an intense appreciation of New York City bagels, poutine, doughnuts, cheesecake, and quiche. He also has a tremendous love of steak and bacon, and dedicates many pages to those meats and others that he loves, like bologna, bratwurst, and pastrami.

Nor does he have much good to say about vegetables and fruit. He writes: “Even when people seem excited to see fruit, they are really just relieved it’s not vegetables.” He goes on to say that “the only thing that raw vegetables have ever been good for is the careers of hummus and ranch dressing.” The one redeeming vegetable he acknowledges is the carrot when he writes: “Cake is so powerful it can even make carrots appealing.

This is accomplished in the form of carrot cake covered with cream cheese frosting.

The best part of all? It doesn’t taste like carrots. That’s why instead of a salad, I normally just order a carrot cake.”

Gaffigan’s relationship with food is not politically-correct or pro-organic (his way of supporting farmers is by ordering a hamburger with a fried egg and bacon, so that one burger covers the cow, pig, and chicken raised by the farmer). He is often irreverent and disrespectful to healthy food, and the book might even be classified as an ode to unhealthy food, but his observations are funny — LOL funny, ROFL funny, and unexpectedly-snort-through-your-nose funny — with an endless string of one-liners combined with a hilarious commentary on his personal obsession with food. His parting words of wisdom for his readers are: “I hope your coffee is strong, your cheese is sharp, and your guacamole is chunky.”

That is sound advice from a self-proclaimed eatie who knows his way around Seattle, Wisconsin, and New Mexico.

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Jim Gaffigan will be performing standup comedy at The Colosseum at Caesars in Windsor on February 7.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and plays in Chatham-Kent, and keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

BEER MATTERS

on the boards

More from The Fringe

By RICK YOUNG

W

hile the 2015 London Fringe Festival may be months away, Executive Producer Kathy Navackas is not resting on her laurels after a highly successful 2014 event.

She has been hard at work planning and organizing the annual 12-day theatre festival, staging a couple of one-off Fringe shows, and securing new venues for the shows which will entertain Londoners June 2 to 13.

Heading into its sixteenth year, the London Fringe has for all intents and purposes become a full-time, year-round event for the ubiquitous Navackas.

This September, the Fringe reprised Judy: Stonewalled!, one of the most popular shows from the June festival with Jayson McDonald’s Magic Unicorn Island (formerly known as World War Three) on the same bill.

Navackas is excited about two Fringe productions coming up in January and February. First up is Jon Lachlan Stewart’s show Big Shot, a co-production of the Fringe and London’s Grand Theatre, being staged in the McManus Studio Theatre in the Grand Theatre, January 22 to 24.

In light of recent events in the United States, the show’s plot is extremely timely, as this synopsis from the show’s Press Release suggests: “A shooting has just occurred on the Vancouver Skytrain, and a twelve-year-old boy who was at the scene of the crime retells it all for the audience, in the style of his favorite action movies. Complete with slo-mo stops, freeze frames and fast-forwards, the boy weaves in and out of every character involved, all a part of Vancouver’s diverse, fractured communities. Big Shot is a portrait of the cultural tensions that spark violence within an urban community — and a riveting piece of multi-media physical theatre.”

Playright and actor Jon Lachlan Stewart Playwright Jon Lachlan Stewart is electrify­ ing in the role of the boy, says Navackas. “It’s a really, really good high energy show done up in movie form and we’re thrilled to be co-producing the show with the Grand,” says Navackas. “Stewart’s physical transformation into the various characters is spellbinding and not to be missed.”

For a preview, visit www.youtube.com/ watch?v=WzHOsW4GF18&feature=youtu.be Some artists approach the London Fringe to come back when on they are on tour.

Such is the case with Mike Delamont, who brings his highly popular God is a Scottish Drag Queen, back to London for three encore performances February 19 to 21 at the Grand Theatre’s McManus Studio Theatre.

Written and performed by Delamont, God is a Scottish Drag Queen was an audience favourite and was selected as the Funniest entry in the 2014 festival. It will be the perfect antidote for the February blues!

Navackas says an amazing line-up of new and returning international, national and local theatre companies is already in place for the June London Fringe Festival.

She is especially excited about the addition of three new Old East Village performance venues — the Palace Theatre, Procunier Hall, and the Palace’s Rehearsal Hall (The

Bank) — for Fringe 2015.

“Venue accessibility and affordability have been ongoing issues facing the London Fringe,” says Navackas. “We are unable to find enough affordable space in the downtown, so adding these three spaces will allow for the continued growth of the festival.”

Faith Coates, General Manager of the Palace, is thrilled with the news that the Fringe is coming east. “It was like Christmas and my birthday rolled into one — incredibly exciting news that we could put together three venues so that Fringe could make the OEV part of the Festival. We are over the moon and ready to welcome everything and everyone Fringe to the OEV culture district,” says Coates.

She adds, “Kathy and I have talked for years about bringing Fringe to the OEV. It has been a dream of ours for a long time and I am so happy that things finally fell into place. To be able to con­ nect the downtown arts scene with the OEV is incredibly exciting and I know that everyone here is going to pull out all the stops to wel­

come all the Fringe patrons and troupers.”

The Fringe will continue to present festival offerings at the McManus Studio,

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Spriet Family Theatre, The Arts Project, and The Good Foundation Theatre. Popular activities like the Dundas Street Festival and Nuit Blanche will also continue in the downtown. New will be an Old East Village Street Festival on June 6.

For more information about the London Fringe, visit www.londonfringe.ca/ Also on the boards is the King’s Players’ Bare: A Pop Opera January 29-31 at King’s University College’s Kenny Theatre. According to Taylor Bogaert, one of the play’s producers, Bare is “centred on a group of friends in their senior year at a Catholic boarding school. The main characters, Peter and Jason, carry on a closeted romance. Peter wants to go public with their affair, but Jason isn’t so keen on the idea, and feels that his entire world would crumble if the relationship got out. The teenage characters of St. Cecelia’s deal with issues of sexual identity, diversity, inclusion, bullying, drugs, alcohol, teen pregnancy, samesex marriage and suicide throughout the story.” Call 519200-3430, or email KPtctickets@gmail.com for tickets.

Help celebrate theatre excellence in London at the 13th annual Brickenden Awards Night, January 26, at the Wolf Performance Hall. For more infor­ mation, visit www. brickenden.org/ RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local, regional and national print and online publications, was the Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, an independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.

№ 51 | January/February 2015

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

BEER MATTERS

sound bites

A World of Sound

Sean Mativetsky performs music for tabla, at Western University.

Photo by Caroline Tabah

By NICOLE LAIDLER

I

f variety is the spice of life, then London’s 2015 music scene is off to a flavourful start, with something to appeal to every taste and budget.

Those lucky enough to make their own schedules should check out the free Fridays-at-noon concert series at Western University’s von Kuster Hall. Held weekly throughout the academic year, the series is a wonderful opportunity for Londoners to hear an eclectic mix of music performed by faculty, students, and renowned guest artists.

The January line-up includes an interactive recital by pianist Jason White on January 9, and a collaborative performance of baroque chamber music for violin, cello, and harpsichord featuring members of Toronto’s Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra and Western’s Early Music Studio Band on January 16.

A week later, on January 23, Montreal’s Shawn Mativetsky presents a program of traditional and new music for tabla.

Drawn to traditional Western percussion at the age of seven, Mativetsky became fascinated by the by the north Indian hand drums and continued studying tabla while pursuing his master’s degree in classical music at McGill University.

“As my career developed, tabla took over,” he says. Today, Mativetsky is a sought-after tabla performer and educator who gives lectures, workshops and performances internationally.

This January, his busy schedule brings him to Western University’s music faculty, where he’ll be running student workshops in addition to his Friday performance.

The solo recital includes a traditional tabla work as well as three original compositions commissioned by Mativetsky: Les arbres céleste (1998, rev. 2010) by Bruno Paquet, Ke-Te (2006) by Western Music faculty member Paul Frehner, and Something to Say (2014) by Tawnie Olson.

“I’ve been commissioning people to write for table since 1999, collaborating closely in creating this new repertoire, bridging Indian classical and Western classical genres,” Mativetsky says. www.music.uwo.ca February begins on a high note, with UWOpera’s production of Puccini’s La Bohème taking to the Paul Davenport Theatre stage from January 30 to February 8.

Premiered in Turin, Italy in 1896, La Bohème is now one of the most performed operas of all time. “Audiences really love it,” says Western University voice professor and director of operatic studies, Theodore Baerg.

“It’s wonderful music, and we have the students who can sing it.”

The story of love and loss among Paris bohemians is set in an artists’ garret, where the poet Rodolfo struggles to make ends meet while pursuing his craft — and the pretty seamstress next door. “It’s about the challenges that young artists have, and that hasn’t changed substantially from the 19th century to 2014,” notes Baerg.

Despite the difficulties facing young performers, Baerg says there are plenty of young people interested in pursuing careers

№ 51 | January/February 2015

in opera. In fact, he says interest in the art form has steadily grown across North America over the past 20 years.

“There are now young artist programs in Vancouver, Victoria, Calgary, Toronto and Montreal. And they all hire. There are significant opportunities to perform and study.”

Now in his 19th year with UWOpera, Baerg continues to enjoy mentoring the next generation while enjoying his own international singing career.

“Working with young singers who have real potential is completely inspiring,” he says. Check www.music.uwo. ca for performance times.

Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra returns to London February 6 when they bring “A Baroque Fest” to Aeolian Hall. For this performance, Toronto’s world-famous early music ensemble will be lead by Romanian baroque violinist Mira Glodeanu. The program features virtuosic works from the late baroque era, including music by Bach, Vivaldi, and Telemann.

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Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra performs at Aeolian Hall on February 6. Photo by Sian Richards

The Aeolian, with its wonderful acoustics, is the perfect place to showcase the group’s acclaimed sound. www.aeolianhall.ca If you’ve ever wanted to hear someone play the bones, you’re in luck. Stratford Symphony Orchestra’s March 7 concert at Knox Presbyterian Church includes percussionist and composer Graham Hargrove performing a new work featuring the simple folk instrument.

The remainder of the “Hot Latin Nights” concert will present more traditional fare, with works by Piazzolla and Scarlatti.

Now in its 10th season, SSO has developed a loyal and growing audience. “The SSO fills a musical niche in our city,” says SSO manager and librarian, Liesel Deppe. “We offer art and entertainment during the months when the Stratford Festival is on hiatus.”

Many people move to Stratford to retire from big-city life, she notes. They are used to being exposed to the arts and appreciate being able to attend an orchestral concert without having to travel long distances. www.stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca At the time of writing, the future of Orchestra London was in doubt. It is with sadness that we report that the organization’s financial difficulties have forced the cancellation of the rest of its 2014/15 concert season.

Western University voice professor and director of operatic studies Theodore Baerg leads UWOpera’s production of La Bohème. Photo by Helen Tansey

NICOLE LAIDLER is a musician-turned-writer and the owner of Spilled Ink Writing & Wordsmithing. Visit her at spilledink.ca

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№ 51 | January/February 2015

the lighter side

Behind the Scenes

By KYM WOLFE

I

t’s Culture Days weekend and I decide to take a behind-the-scenes tour of the kitchen at the London Convention Centre. I want to see what it takes to pull together a three-course meal for more than 1,000 guests — something Chef David Elrik and his crew do on a regular basis.

Apparently I will learn a few industry secrets.

Might come in handy the next time I host a sit-down meal for loads of people.

As soon as I walk past those signs that say “authorized staff only” I feel like I have been transported into a world of ginormous things. Coffee brewers with baskets as big as my head. A delivery ­elevator that can accom­ modate a tank or a heli­ copter (and actually has for past events). Massive cook­ ing cauldrons — one holds 2,000 cups of soup. Huge utensils to stir, blend, mash and otherwise manipulate food. A gas-fired skillet as large as a dining table, with gears to lift and tilt the entire surface. A convection oven that looks like a large walk in closet — roll in a trolley of raw poultry, hook it up to spin like a giant rotisserie…and presto! ... out comes beautifully cooked chicken.

Elrik shows us a Rational oven with push button controls. “Even we could be chefs if we used one of those!” says a member of our group. Sure, using that piece of equipment looks easy ... but managing the rest of the operation — not so much.

The pace and logistics involved in creating hot, fresh, tasty meals for large groups, sometimes in multiple meeting rooms, must be a nightmare at times! The largest meal that Elrik has overseen was for 1,850 people. That’s not the norm, but 1,000 is old hat. There can be a number of rooms in use at the same time, each with different menus and different schedules, so timing is always critical.

Prep work starts the day before: chopping,

slicing, dicing, even putting grill marks on steaks so they can be oven cooked just before serving. Aside from appetizers, soups, salads and entrées, the kitchen also produces its own ice cream and sorbets.

Pastries are made by Petit Paris, under Elrik’s direction — he says it’s akin to having his own pastry chef who works offsite.

I picture the beehive of activity on a crazy, busy night. Dirty dishes are crated and rolled into a massive machine-washed, rinsed and ready to use in one minute, start to finish!

Workers who unload the piping hot dishes wear surgical tape on their fingertips to keep their skin from scalding. There is a heated dish room right beside the plating area. With their efficient assemblyline system, staff can plate 200 hot meals onto the hot dishes in just 10 minutes.

Once they are stored in the massive holding units, they become the responsibility of the serving staff.

If you’re going to oversee this scale of a kitchen it helps to be tall, and to be able to roll with whatever challenges arise. At 6’3” Elrik has a bird’s eye view of his domain, and although he looks like he could be fresh out of chef’s school, he’s actually 46 years old. No sign of early aging due to stress. He’s either incredibly resilient or he has good genes on his side!

I end the tour with a new appreciation for what goes on behind the scenes at the convention centre. But am I ready to serve a perfectly prepared meal in my own kitchen, on heated plates, to a couple of dozen dinner guests? Maybe … if I get one of those Rational ovens … and my own sous-chef …

KYM WOLFE is a local writer who loves to explore places that would normally be off-limits. www.kymwolfe.com

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