CIARA NEALE
buying & merchandising S/S 18 dresses
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TO CREATE A BRAND THAT BLENDS MUSIC AND FASHION INTO A POTENT FORMULA OF DESIRABLE CLOTHING THAT EXPRESSES INDIVIDUALITY AND ATTITUDE
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contents
Brand introduction pages 6-17 Comp shop analysis pages 18-31 Trend direction pages 32-35 Colour palette pages 36-41 Catwalk inspiration and analysis
pages 42-45
street style pages 46-49 Key shapes translated into flat specifications
pagess 50-55
Print direction pages 56-57 Fabric, texture and component details
pages 58-59
Final range pages 60-64 Customer outfit builds pages 66-69
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brand overview AllSaints Spitalfields, also knows as AllSaints is seen to be one of the most individual styling retailers on the British high street selling menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories. Stuart Trevor and Kait Bolongaro founded the brand in 1994. The establishment of AllSaints began as a wholesale menswear brand selling merchandise exclusive to high-end british brands such as Harrods and Harvey Nichols which led to their first stand alone store opening in Foubert Place off London’s Carnaby St. in 1997. AllSaints broadened their consumer base by launching womenswear in 1998. The Brand has now expanded on a global scale with over 200 stores overall. Their rapid global expansion began
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in 2009 when AllSaints opened stores all over the US and launching their new website including international versions in a range of languages to target foreign markets (Fashion Review, 2011). AllSaints is at the top end of the high street which caters for the people who seek clothing that “expresses individuality and attitude” (AllSaints Spirtialfield, n.d.). The name ‘All Saints’ was inspired by both, cool, arty and musical All Saints Road in London’s Notting Hill and 60’s TV icon Simon Templar i.e. ‘The Saint’. The label is said to be inspired from musical heritage, with greats such as The Clash (All Saints Road regulars). Musical culture plays a key role in the All Saints aesthetic (Fashion Review, 2011).
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brand handwriting Allsaints revolutionised the modern high street with a range of sophisticated and effortless essentials inspired by a gritty urban aesthetic. “To create a brand that blends music and fashion into a potent formula of desirable clothing that expresses individuality and attitude”. – All Saints Spitalfields This is at the heart of the brand and everything they do. Having the strong link with the music industry and being a purely British fashion retailer
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gives the unique selling point. AllSaints is predominately digitally run using technology to construct the brand personality linking to the consumer profile for example chic, quirky and rebellious. The brand identity is central to the company’s concept and is demonstrated through its distinctive brand recognition. The use of factory machinery in stores and the distressed nature of the displays runs integral to the brand essence and its strategy.
muse Maya Thurman-Hawke Maya Thurman - Hawke stars in a video for the brand’s spring 2017 collection, shot in her hometown of Woodstock, NY. Maya showcases the Spring 17 collection throughout the film. It is a collection that expresses the codes and vices of the city colliding with the pastoral idyll of the countryside. AllSaints’ creative director Will Beedle comments: “Anyone who spends any time with Maya will tell you that she’s smart, cool and possesses an infectious enthusiasm for new ideas, the creative process, and life in general. And as the title suggests, making this film with Maya is a conscious decision to escape from the city and New York’s increasingly overcrowded fashion week. Taking a trip up to Woodstock with Maya to capture the collection in the environment that inspired it – and then share it a week later with the world – felt more appropriate, more free, more now.” (PRNewswire, Sep 2016).
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muse Kings Of Leon Musical culture plays a key role in the All Saints aesthetic – this is illustrated every collection with the release of signature, graphic tees. Musical influences have led to a long-standing history of collaborating with the emerging talent in the British music industry (Fashion Review, 2011). After launching their film production division in 2013, AllSaints have focused on producing music, style and street documentaries. The division won’t be limited to fashion-focused films: it’s first release is New Music City, focusing on the Kings of Leons’ independent record label, Serpents and Snakes in the emerging Nashville music scene. The documentary features interviews with the band and live performances from this year’s SXSW festival. “Kings of Leon and their record label Serpents and Snakes operate from the other side of the world to our home of Spitalfields, yet their spirit and attitude are things we see in ourselves,” explained Beedle (Vogue.com, 2013).
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allsaints studio AllSaints launched its own fully operational film unit in 2013 with the intention of delivering multiple projects each year exploring everything from music, style and street documentaries to moving image installations. Under the supervision of creative director Wil Beedle, the first short in the series is New Music City, a documentary focusing on Nashville as a cultural hub. (Dazed, 2013) AllSaints Studio has done much collaboration with musical artists in LA, East London and around the globe throughout the years. New Music Cities (NMC) was a unique blend of performance and music spanning the globe to create cinematic portraits of cities and the vibrant music scene within. Featuring commentary and performances from AllSaints influencers Kings of Leon, JosĂŠ GonzĂĄlez, Gilles Peterson, Mount Kimbie, DIIV, and Sapphire Slows. AllSaints Studios also showcases short films on their collections, projects and musical collaborations. (AllSaints, n.d.).
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iconic garments leather jacket . A brand best known for its premium leather and bikers, AllSaints has long caught the attention of the fashion pack, but this one is something special. One for .rock chicks and fashionistas alike, it’s a buy-now, wear-forever piece that never goes out of style. It’s extremely well made – from the soft, supple leather to the blackcurrant lining and durable silver hardware (Indy Best, august 2016). Due to the brand handriting of AllSaints , the leather jacket is a key, iconic garment sold withing the brand. A leather jacket is linked with the rock genre which is why AllSaints have invested in the garment due to the musical influence.
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previous collections
Spring/Summer 2017 14
Spring/Summer 2016 15
Spring/Summer 2015 16
Spring/Summer 2014 17
comp shop analysis
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price: ÂŁ188 colours: maroon sizing: 2-14 country of origin:china style notes: A silk shirt dress designed in a flattering relaxed silhouette, digitally printed with two seasonal floral prints.Band collar.Bracelet length sleeves.Button cuffs.Concealed button-through fastening.Curved hem. Digital floral prints designed in-house.
Helle Amarillo silk shirt dress
fabric: 100% silk
price: ÂŁ119 colours: black/white sizing: XS-L country of origin:unknown
Amena Print Shirt Dress
style notes: Make a statement in the Ameena Print Lola Dress from Whistles. Easy to wear, this piece will be modern addition to your daywear wardrobe. The cocoon silhouette creates a relaxed shape, while the contemporary pattern is eye-catching and impactful. Featuring a flattering v neck, front button fastening, slit pockets and 3/4 length sleeves. fabric: 55% cupro, 45% viscose
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price: ÂŁ97.50 colours: blue grey, khaki, white sizing: XXS-L country of origin: unknown style notes: This lyocell shirt dress has a button-down collar, breast pockets and a hidden button placket for a casual yet feminine look. fabric: 100% lyocell
fluid denim Shirt Dress
AllSaints came in the most expensive of the three with a ÂŁ100 difference. This comparison shows that AllSaints could possibly decrease their price to keep consumers from going to the competitor stores The colour choice for AllSaints is a seasonal print which is a fashion colour for the Brand. Whereas the Kooples stick to core, block colours and also gives a variety of colours. Whistles offers a print for the shirt dress. The styling of the AllSaints dress is a relaxed silhouette which is a core garment for the brand. The competitor stores are a similar style with all garments having a curved/rounded hem. The fabric choices for all dresses are different giving consumers a selection of shirt dresses. AllSaints uses 100% silk, the fabric is a good quality given the price of the item. in comparison to the competitive items, AllSaints is the most valuable in price and quality.
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price: £128 colours: black sizing: XS-L country of origin: india style notes: An easy, relaxed silhouette, it’s perfect for layering over a black slip or a bikini during summer.
liza lace dress
fabric: 100% cotton
price: ÂŁ249 colours: navy sizing: 4-16 country of origin:unknown style notes: Master modern femininity with this chic dress. The design features contrasting lace panels, a scalloped hem and long sleeves. fabric: 100% polyester
emma circle lace dress
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price: ÂŁ285 colours: black, bordeaux, pouder sizing: XXS-L country of origin: unknown style notes: This elegant knee-length dress is made entirely from embroidered lace. It features an openwork band at the waist and a taffeta slip for controlled see-through effects.
embroidered lace dress
fabric: 65% cotton 35% polyamide
AllSaints was the least expensive item between the three with a more than ÂŁ100 difference. the brand may have to meet its compeitors pricing even though it is the cheapest. AllSaints is in the higher market sector and therefore should keep up with the quality brand by increasing the pricing slightly. AllSaints is a core colour with no other options, whereas The Kooples has a choice of two other colours. Whistles is similar to AllSaints with only one colour choice. The lace dress is a core, night out dress and other colour options should be offered to the customer. AllSaints has a relaxed silhouette whereas the competitors both have a cinched waist. the relaxed silhouette is a regular style for AllSaints however the competitor shops are doing the opposite. All
three
shops
use
cotton
or
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polyester
fabric
for
lace.
price: ÂŁ128 colours: black, anthracite grey sizing: 2-14 country of origin: china style notes: The Aures dress is an effortless choice for work or weekend, crafted in fluid crepe that drapes slightly through the body. Lace up detailing adds our signature detail while highlighting the side waist.
aures dress
fabric: 100% polyester
price: ÂŁ120 colours: black sizing: 4-16 country of origin:unknown style notes: This simple dress will segue from boardroom to bar, effortlessly. The design features a crisp V-neckline and capped sleeves. Pleats at shoulder. Versatile staple. Length (shoulder to hem) 92cm
paige v-neck crepe dress
fabric: 100% polyester
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price: ÂŁ79 colours: black, navy sizing: 34-44 country of origin: unknown style notes: Other dress - Dress-Long-Short sleeveAn A-line style and fit, this dress has wide half sleeves and a deep, crossover v-neckline. With a folded pleat along the front, it is made from lightly textured fabric that has loose, fluid quality.
crossover v-neck dress
fabric: 100% polyester
the pricing for AllSaints is similar to the Whistles Paige dress although the added detail on the AllSaints dress separates their individuality style to tehir competitor stores. the price for the Crossover Cos dress is much lower than the other dresses. the colour options for AllSaints are a dark choice of colours which fits with the aesthetic of the store. AllSaints don’t offer a number of colour choices although this dress is a bestsellerso therefore there is another colour option. The competitor dresses are core colours such as blck and navy . All Saints has a different colour such as anthracite grey which separates from its competitor stores. AllSaints style for this black v-neck dress is a new take on the little black dress with a lace up detailing highlighting the side waist. Whereas the competitor dresses are simple giving AllSaints an advantage for the consumer. All three dresses are a relaxed silhouette although have a different style of sleeve. all dresses are 100% polyester which is a fabric that is used many times for clothes .
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swot analysis strengths
weaknesses
- styling of dresses is similar to competitors but also have a few dresses which are slightly different due detailing. - offer core colours for customers - many different styles of dresses due to draping and length.
- pricing for dresses are varied in comparison to competitor stores - garments take months to manufacture and ship due to most being made in China
- there is a constant change of fashion trends due to fast fashion from high street stores in the lower market sector. - different and individual style of dresses in comparison to other competitors
- offer more colour options for consumers - expand on styling of dresses, rather than most being a relaxed silhouette
opportunities
threats 26
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labels The swing tags at Whistles are attached with a black safety pin and thin string. It matches the other branding at Whistles, as it is high quality like everything else. The tag is plain white with a black logo in the middle. in comparison to AllSaints, the label is not as high quality although fits with the brand aesthetic. On the other side of the label it informs you of the name of the item, sizing.
The swing tags for AllSaints are attached also with a black safety pin and thin textured grey rope. The tag is also high quality like everything else in the store. The colour of the tag matches the aesthetic colour of AllSaints, as it is a grey/dark green colour with a black/grey logo in the middle. the top corners are cut at a slant. On the other side of the label it informs you of the name of the item, sizing of UK, EU and US, barcode and pricing.
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The swing tag at Kooples are attached with a black safety pin and very thin black rope. The quality of the tag however is not as high quality as its competitive shops, it is more of a paper than a thick card. The tag is black with the Kooples logo in white. On the other side of the label it informs you of the name of the item, sizing of UK, EU and US, barcode and pricing.
hangers The hangers at Whistles fit well with the visual merchandising of the store and brand handwriting. The hangers are white wood with a matte metal hook and an engraved logo. This hanger is similar to AllSaints as the quality also matches with the garments of the store and matches the visual merchandising and aesthetic. Compared to AllSaints, the packaging, hangers etc. are a similar idea. although Whistles has more of a simplistic look for the store.
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The hangers at AllSaints fit with the visual merchandising of the store and the brands aesthetic. The hangers are wood with a dark grey finish with a matte metal hook and the logo is engraved with added rustic detail into the hanger giving a grungy look. It is also very sturdy ensuring that the garment is supported and that it won’t slip off. This crafting of the hanger is high quality just as the garments are; it also matches with the visual merchandising and aesthetic.
store - birmingham AllSaints’ visual merchandising is grungy and has a gritty urban aesthetic matching with the brand identity of the store. The spacing between clothing is a finger space and hangers must face the same way. Colour schemes and styling of garments are grouped together on small rustic, pipe railings with the tags tucked away neatly into the garment. As I was talking to the manager of the Birmingham store, she had stated that AllSaints headquarters send her a guide to what the store must look like exactly, and if there was any changes made by her she would have to explain why she had done so. For example, there more sales on a garment therefore she put it closer to the front of the store. The stores aesthetic includes the classic singer sewing machines which are displayed at the front window in rows or in the store along with the garments. The walls are a worn out wooden texture and they use studio lights focusing on the garments. The overall look of the store is very urban and gritty which suits with the brand identity.
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trend direction
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i have chosen slow futures as inspiration for my range as it uses minimalism as the main statement for its trend and ‘strong silhouettes’, ‘clever cuts’ and ‘raw edges’ for key details. AllSaints’ style revolves around this trend and looking at further colour palettes and textiles in this trend, the Spring/Summer range for 2018 will include recurring styles but also trial garments using the slow futures trend from WGSN.
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slow futures
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Neutral colour palette for Spring Summer 18 dresses range.
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mood board neutrals
Rich summer tones colour palette for Spring Summer 18 dresses range.
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mood board rich summer
colour palette
Ports 1961 A/W 17
Ports 1961 Autumn Winter collection shows a colour palette which is similar to the slow futures trend. AllSaints colours are a dark, edgy palette therefore the colours in this collection will inspire the AllSaints Spring Summer 18 range. The accent colour choice would be the off yellow and dark, khaki green.
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key trends SS 18
Ashley Williams SS17
shirt dress
Barbara Casasola SS17
DKNY SS17
Rag & Bone SS17
The Key trends for Spring/Summer 18 include a shirt dress which has been a key trend in past Spring/Summer seasons. AllSaints are prone to using the shirt dress garment in their ranges as it has a relaxed silhouette which is the common style AllSaints uses. All designers above show the relaxed silhouette which makes a masculine fit for women. Dresses from Barbara Casasola and Rag & Bone show a cinched waist giving a more feminine look. The following details on the DKNY and Chloe dress inpire my shirt dress i will be designing for my range. The DKNY dress shows hidden front button and the Chloe dress is collarless. The hidden buttons make this dress more structural and minimalistic and the collar makes the dress more feminine.
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|Relaxed Silhoueete| |Masculine fit| |Structural shape|
Sportmax SS17
Chloe SS17
Rag & Bone SS17
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key trends SS 18
Valentino SS17
layered dress
Daizy Shely SS17
Robert Cavalli SS17
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini SS17
The Key trends for Spring/Summer also inlcude a layered maxidress. All dresses shown above all use the layered ruffles but all interpret in a different style. Valentino, Daizy Shely, Philosophy and Vivetta have a conched waist giving the dress a more feminine look. The layered ruffles are soft in comparison to the structure of the short dress. The shape of the Vivetta dress is inspiring for my dress for my range. The dark chiffon and oversized sleeves would add a individual attitude to the range. AllSaints have previously brought out a tiered, embroidered dress but they’re aesthetic does not suit summery dresses. However this dress can be worn to music festivals and can be styled towards a more rock and dark aesthetic.
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|Bohemian style| |Layered Ruffles| |Feminine Silhouette|
Alberta Ferretti SS17
Vivetta SS17
Daizy Shely SS17
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street style
shift dress
| V NECK | SIDE SPLITS | REALXED SILHOUETTE | MID SLEEVES | The Shift dress is a Spring Summer key trend which AllSaints has usd in previous collections. The details on these street styles can be developed through to the Spring Summer 18 range.
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slip dress
| V NECK | THIN STRAPS | REALXED SILHOUETTE | MID LENGTH | The slip dress is a key trend that has been reinvented from the 90’s. The mid length dress can be layered with any type of shirt. This dress will fit into the AllSaints range
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street style
layered dress
| V NECK | COLLARLESS | FEMININE | MID LENGTH | LAYERED RUFFLES |
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The key trend for spring summer 18 includes the layered dress. These street style shows the different interpretations of layered ruffles. the dresses can also be layered which seems to be a recurring trend in street style. This bohemian style dress can be worn at a music festival which is why the look will be developed into the AllSaints range.
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key shapes into flat specs
split shift dress 50
slip dress
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key shapes into flat specs
layered ruffle dress 52
v neck shift dress
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key shapes into flat specs
knit dress 54
shirt dress 55
print direction
| gemetric | abstract | solid | soft state |
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The silent shapes print is a trend from slow futures which will be used within my range. The print use within the range will be graphic. It wil consist of abstract shapes which are revealed from the use of negative space. The mix of solid shapes with subtle watercolour textures and fine lines transform geometrics into a softer state.
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fabric, texture and component details
the Materials used for the range will be the following: Viscose, silk, fine cotton, ribbed knit and polyester. the chosen fabrics are light for the spring and have a slight soft touch along with comfort. Silk and viscose have been used in previosu dresses from AllSaints. the woven fabrics have a slight structure giving a shape to the dresses.
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these simple buttons will be used on the shirt dress. the buttons will be hidden on the front of the shirt dress.
The button down style will be done like this on a chiffpon ruffle dress. The style of these buttons are suited to the style of the dress.
The oversized utility pockets will be on the shirt dress adding a slight detail to the simple style.
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final range
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
ratio
1
1
2
2
2
ratio
1
1
2
2
2
ratio
1
1
2
3
1
code: AS4450 line type: core price: £128 units: 3000 Best options: 2
3
3
r
e Sell
Tallia knit dress
code: AS4451 line type: core price: £188 units: 4000 options: 2
3
3
r
lle e S t
Bes
Tyanna Shirt dress 60
3
3
code: AS4455 line type: fashion price: £118 units: 800 options: 1
Javan slip dress
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
size
2
4
6
8 10 12
14
ratio
1
1
2
3
1
ratio
1
1
2
2
2
ratio
2
2
2
2
2
3
code: AS4452 line type: fashion price: £138 units: 1000 est B options: 3
3
r
e Sell
Tallia Dress
3
3
code: AS4453 line type: core price: £128 units: 3000 options: 2
Adrial dress 61
2
2
code: AS4454 line type: trial price: £188 units: 600 options: 1
Nefili dress
critical paths
Tyanna Shirt dress
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Javan slip dress
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Nefili dress
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customer outfit builds Tallia knit dress
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Javan slip dress
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customer outfit builds Adrial dress
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Nefili dress
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