Trend Forecasting report | Socio-Cultural Normality

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SOCIOCULTURAL

NORMALITY

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introduction 3 key drivers 4-8 key impacts 9-13 innovators 14 influencers 15 consumer tribe 16 trend summary 17 referencing 18-19

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The trend being introduced shows the optimism of people making a change in society and breaking through the normal boundaries. Gender inequality and inequality of body image being perceived in the media are being discussed as Issues in terms of social inequality – all being recognised by the young and “millennial” demographic of today’s generation. It has been said that ‘the use of social media has dedicated sites that aim to capitalise on the same momentum forming a collective conscious.” (i-D, Amelia Abraham, March 2015).

Intro duction People live in a world of technology, ambition, freedom and game-changing ideas. This generation has grown up within a technology world, with having been raised in the era of social media and smartphones. “Therefore the majority of people spending time online are the generation Z. It’s their eyes and ears, giving them the knowledge and tools to implement change. “(New York Times, Williams, Sep 2015) “The fact of these stories being told from the other side of the planet direct to our phones, is the best story of all.” (Tamsin Omond, green Party Candidate). “Change happens when we’re told stories that provoke and inspire us. (i-D, Amelia Abraham, March 2015)” Through the use of “hashtags”

on social media sites, the trending driver can be recognised around world by a vast population encouraging them to act and change. The trend being introduced is the breaking of social norms and traditional views on society plus exposure and protesting against inequality in different contexts. Attitudes on social issues have shifted including race, sexuality and gender. Drivers such as #FreeTheNipple and #BlackLivesMatter are being discussed as the coverage and recognition has generated an enormous impact. The breaking down of social norms is seen as an ambitious action and even though a small number of people go against it, there are more whom praise it and follow in it’s footsteps.

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KEY DRIVER Free The Nipple is a campaign led by the actress Lina Esco who launched a global protest in response to the controversial and censorship of a women’s nipple. The campaign kicked off as a feature film with many topless women walking through the streets of New York and Washington to highlight the issue of nipple-phobia and gender inequality. The campaign raises awareness in the areas of the inequality of men and women, which are still being experienced today. In today’s developing world of technology, social media has an immense impact on our lives. Esco’s #FreeTheNipple is a trending hashtag on twitter used by manycelebrities after the protest was launched as a direct reaction to social media sites such as Facebook and Insta-

#FreeTheNipple

gram’s refusal of

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women’s nipples to be featured. This topic has catapulted the issues of gender inequality and sexism into the spotlight in todays world stage. However Lina Esco maintains that her goal has been not to advocate women to be bare-chested at all times, but simply that they should have the choice; also to influence a change in the public’s perception of women’s bodies in our culture today from being one of sexual suppression. (Dragonfly effect news, Adam Riva, Dec 2014). Free The Nipple sparked an international movement and seeks equality, empowerment and freedom. The power and influence of social media has provided a platform for this trending hashtag to have a significant impact relevant to gender inequality issues across a broad spectrum of society.

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KEY DRIVER body image

People have the power to demand change when it comes to the way women’s bodies is represented in the world of fashion and media. Proven by a Facebook post by Laura Berry, she states: “This mannequin is quite frankly ridiculously shaped. Young women aspire to the somewhat cult image your store offers…yet not one mannequins in your store showed anything bigger than a size 6.” Berry went on to talk about that although she is “old enough to know better” she was worried that negative impact

from the mannequin displays could be detrimental on impressionable teens. (Huffington Post, Rachel Moss, July 2015). It wasn’t long before the whole Internet was standing behind her using hashtags to publicise the issue. What started out as a single post snowballed into a viral revolution with more than 3,000 ‘likes’ and over 400 ‘shares’. The majority of women supporting this issue’s message have made themselves abundantly clear: women are sick of being made to feel bad about

themselves because they are not the depiction of perfect. Thanks to the democratisation of social media as a chance for freedom and unmediated speech, women finally have a platform through which to express this. The same situation occurred against a highly sizeist and deeply sexist advertisement for a weight loss product. The unknown brand was positioned in nearly every tube station in London depicting a scantily clad model with the slogan,

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“Are You Beach Body Ready?” Women everywhere reacted quickly against the campaign’s body shaming which led to hoards of women standing beside the posters in defiance as the women scorned, “You’re damn right we’re beach body ready.” More than 50,000 women signed an online petition, while others staged a protest at Hyde Park organised via Facebook. Plus size model, Barbara Ferreira, proudly says, “I’m so happy and proud of women taking a stand against such a disgusting ad.” (i-D, Tish Weinstock, August 2015). Breaking the social laws of the skinny, “beautiful” women is a fight against the inequality of a body image being portrayed in the media. This shows that more people are using social media as a platform to demonstrate the message that size doesn’t matter.

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KEY DRIVER Gender Fluidity The fashion world has historically been split into two gender categories, women’s wear and menswear. But recently those rigid lines have dissolved as now gender-fluid fashion is taking over. Gender fluidity is a movement that regards gender as “a spectrum rather than a set identity and there are a number of positions on that spectrum available to people to express who they are,” (Jack Halberstam, Gender Studies Professor, University of Southern California). Unisex clothes are the highlight of the runway including bringing different genders onto different runways. Gender fluidity met haute couture as trio of males hit the runway at Maison Margiela.

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Galliano made an androgynous statement by breaking gender social norms (Dazed, Ted Stansfield, 2015). Generation Z knows gender is a spectrum as 81% of today’s teenagers stated, “gender doesn’t define a person as much as it used to.” (The Memo, Kitty Knowles, March 2016). The emergence and popularity of unisex clothing has connected with increasing societal awareness and acceptance of transgender rights. Transgender celebrities such as Caitlyn Jenner and Laverne Cox have helped bring the topic of trans into the mainstream, and fashion has made trans models such as Hari Nef and Andreja Pejic all help bend the traditional norms of feminine

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and masculine (Vocativ, Cassie Murdoch, Feb 2016). People are more accepting of transgender and gender fluidity as there is a growth in role models, “Caitlyn Jenner is just another reality TV star but she’s got people talking.” (Parker Dell, 24, trans male from the UK, the guardian, Sarah Marsh, march 2016). This shows that there is a growth in availability of gender-neutral fashion and acceptance in equality. Gender fluidity through one of the most high-ranking industry sectors shows the break of social norms and traditional views. The optimism in people dissolving the stereotypical values shows they recognise the inequality in the world.


KEY DRIVER

#Black Lives matter Black Lives Matter is an organisation founded in the United States of America by three black women – Alicia Garza, Opal Tometi and Patrisse Cullors – in 2012 after the murder of 17-year old Travyon Martin. He was shot by George Zimmerman in Sanford, Florida with Zimmerman subsequently being acquitted of the crime. This led to the beginning of the trending #BlackLivesMatter where people took to fighting for Martin’s death on social media. What started out to be a simple social media

movement is now the most known battle for the African-American Community. The movement took to the streets in August 2014 in Ferguson, Missouri, after the shooting of 18-year-old Michael Brown by officer Darren Wilson. The group was shown demonstrating at a non-violent protest, which was seen positively around the world by the use of social media. It has resulted in showing the public that black people’s basic human rights are still not being recognised after decades of unfair treatment. The movement is making a

statement that they want to be treated fairly and justly (Morning Ledger, Eliza Marie Uygongco, July 2016). The Black Lives Matter movement has opened the eyes of people and shows that within the world we live in, black people are still being oppressed. The inequality of race has an impact in the world, which has been an on-going issue for decades and through the development of social media, this issue is being publicised and reaching millions of people who can now recognise the key concerns.

“Black Lives Matter is taking the hashtag off of social media and into the streets. This is not a Moment, but a Movement.” -Black Lives Matter

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global Goals In the month of September 2016, thousands of representatives from all over the world gathered in New York to witness the launch of re-shaping and re-stating the “larger freedom” of the rights of a more sustainable and fairer world. The United Nations set out 17 goals in 2015 with all goals to be achieved in 2030. The main in September was to drive to achieve full equality for men and women, which culminated in, and is represented by, Goal #5. The new agenda seeks to impact some key challenges seen within the 21st century such as poverty, inequality and violence against women. Women’s empowerment is a pre-condition for this. Without gender equality and a full role for women in society, economy and governance, it would not be possible to achieve the agenda.167 countries have reported their own successes in achieving gender equality and women’s empowerment

(Huffington Post, Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka, September 2016). A focused remake of the 1996 hit single - Wannabe, by the Spice Girls - was remade by The Global Goals; an initiative from the UN that set out 17 goals for sustainable development. The Girl Power generation have some concrete ideas about what they want: an end to violence against girls, quality education, an end to child marriage and equal pay for work, to name a few. The campaign was supported by Naomi Campbell, Alek Wek, Lily Cole and Emma Watson. People on social media have also contributed their voices to the campaign using the hashtag #WhatIReallyReallyWant. The video states, “Girl Power has come a long way. Let’s take it further.” (i-D, Charlotte Gush, July 2016). This shows that inequality for women still exists even though some traditional social norms have been broken.

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KEY DRIVER

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Social media inequality

Celebrities have embraced and publicized the #FreeTheNipple cause. Plenty of public figures have taken action, especially when it comes to social media. Miley Cyrus was one of the first celebrities to help elevate the cause. In 2013, she tweeted a photo of herself with an image of a nipple over her eye tagging Free The Nipple’s account. She has continued to support the campaign as she is best known on social media to post topless images, which have been removed due to Instagram’s policy of a women’s nipple. Other celebrities to notably support the campaign are Scout and Rumer Willis. In 2014, Scout Willis walked the streets of New York topless after Instagram removed one of her photos. She told the Village Voice in 2014: “Apparently it’s OK for women to be degraded and hyper sexualized, but it’s not OK for them to

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IMPACT

be proud of their bodies.”Rumer Willis supported her sister by attending a Free The Nipple fundraiser soon after and was even seen wearing a shirt featuring bare breasts (Mic, Julie Zellinger, August 2015). Rihanna had taken a leave of absence from the social media site, Instagram, for 6 months after posting a magazine shoot featuring her bare breasts. Instagram had removed the image and has had to repeatedly remove Rihanna’s photos from her Instagram account due to constant controversial imagery. Designer Tom Ford has called it more influential than any fashion reviewer. The conversation of #FreeTheNipple has sparked and become a trending hashtag. The controversial debate will escalate further due to the coverage from celebrity influences, protests and social media.

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IMPACT Barriers being broken Social media is a platform to express outrage towards inequality; trending hashtags advances the word across on a global scale. Set up by Australian model, Stefania Ferrario, the hashtag #droptheplus is an online campaign aimed to redefine how we think of “plus sized” models, celebrating who they are, whatever shape or size. The campaign firstly did not progress into a viral success, however it wasn’t until Ferrario garnered a lot of attention by posting a topless photo of herself with, “I AM A MODEL” printed across her stomach that people decided to take notice.

“Unfortunately in the modeling industry if you’re above a US size 4 you are considered plus size. I do NOT find this empowering… I’m NOT proud to be called ‘plus’ but I AM proud to be called a ‘model’!” 4,000 instagram posts and hundreds of tweets on Twitter later, more women were showing their commonality by standing up to the fashion world’s offensive categorization of models. Online campaigns continue to challenge the way fashion engages with the female form, making a way for body positive future. (iD, Tish Weinstock, August 2015).

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IMPACT

Erosion of gender norms Fashion is taking a stand against gender positioned clothing, as the break of social norms is becoming a viral trend through the theme of inequality. Within the fashion industry in terms of supporting gender fluidity, Jaden Smith was one of the most famous to take public action. Jaden Smith was announced as the new star of the major fashion house Louis Vuitton for their SS16 women’s ad campaign. Smith rocked a pleated skirt-suit, a mesh fringed tank and posed with a series of handbags (The Wrap, Matt Donnelly, Feb 2016).

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Louis Vuitton continues its strategy of being appealing as possible by publishing the 17-year-old Jaden Smith as the face of the latest campaign for the digital affine generation Z. For Smith, modeling the Womanswear is a natural step after his black and white dress he wore at the end of Amandla Stenberg proving his passion for gender-neutral clothing as self-ironic (i-D, i-D staff, Jan 2016). After appearing in the Louis Vuitton campaign, Jaden Smith featured in a gender-bending photo on Vogue Korea February 2016.

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Smith continues to embrace gender fluidity in the world of high fashion. While gender neutral clothing has become increasingly popular over the years, Jaden Smith demonstrates a powerful movement towards normalizing gender fashion in the mainstream media (TrendHunter, Katherine Pendrill, February 2016).


symbolic protest

San Francisco 49ers quarterback Colin Kaepernick took a stance on behalf of the Black Lives Movement by deciding to sit as his fellow teammates and opponents took part in the American national anthem. The protest took place in 2016 as Kaepernick explained that the patriotic symbol of hope and prosperity does not reflect the times of racial inequality that a portion of Americans are living today. He stated “I am not going to stand up to show pride in a flag for a

country that oppresses people and people of colour,“ Kaepernick to NFL media (Vibe, Desire Thompson, August 2016). Kaepernick has received support from NFL players and celebrities such as John Legend. Barack Obama had defended the NFL player’s right to make a political statement and said, he’d “rather have young people engaged in the argument and trying to think through how thy can be part of our democratic process than those who are just sitting on the sidelines.” (CNN report)

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IMPACT

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women

IMPACT

empowerment

During the Oscars in 2015, actress Patricia Arquette made a monumental statement that will go down as one of the greatest in Oscar history: “To every woman who gave birth, to every tax payer and citizen of this nation: we have fought for everybody else’s equal rights. It’s our time to have wage equality once and for all and equal rights for women.” Twitter erupted as the actress spoke out at one of the most famous events in the world about inequality - that it still occurs.An example of a strong women fighting for equal rights is the recent presidential condidate, Hillary Clinton.

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Clinton is the first woman to be running for President of the United States which shows working women that the presidency would be more than a symbol of progress. Her platform is the most progressive of any major party candidate in advancing equality for women in the workplace. In 2016 the gender pay gap remains pernicious, the average woman only earns 79% of what a man earns (Forbes, Clare O’Connor, November 2016). Even though Donald Trump beat Clinton to the presidency, she stated that does not want her loss to deter women from trying to reach their goals.

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Women see Hillary Clinton as a role model due to her high office profile in government; she says to females everywhere: “And to all the women especially the young women who put their faith in this campaign and me, I want you to know nothing has made me prouder than to be your champion.” (Mirror, Nicola Oakley, November 2016). The theme of inequality is shown through the powerful women who fight against it. Women empowerment is a key trend throughout social media as due to the vast development of Internet, inequality problems can be seen globally.


innovators Andre Pajic

Andre Pajic is innovative to this trend by becoming one of the first transgender models to walk the runway. Due to her androgynous look she has modeled for both menswear and womenswear before her transition. Gene Kogan, codirector of the men’s division at DNA Model Management, says: “Andreja had an extraordinary career as a male model, often modelling female clothes; she pulled it off. It opened a lot of eyes and made people see things from a new perspective. We’re going to see her influence for years to come.” After Pajic

underwent gender-confirmation surgery she is still modelling and has become the first transgender model to feature in American Vogue. Pajic’s success embodies the cultural and political mainstreaming of transgender identity. Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, says: “a pure recording of something that is happening around us: a strong affirmation of freedom, beyond cataloging and labeling.” Andre Pajic says, “It’s good. We’re finally figuring out that gender and sexuality are more complicated.” (Vogue, Alice Gregory, April 2015).

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Lina Esco is a filmmaker who began the Free The Nipple movement, which started as a feature film, and soon became an international campaign supported by hoards of women. One of the reasons behind her movement is due to Instagram’s policy to not show a women’s nipple on the social media site: “We don’t allow nudity on Instagram…it also includes some photos of female nipples, but photos of post-mastectomy scarring and women actively breastfeeding are allowed.” (Instagram, Community Guidelines). The trending hashtag is one of the most

lina esco

recognisable in 2015 and 2016. Esco began the campaign in search of equality within genders. She points out, that “according to statute 245.01 per Appeals Court of The city of New York, it is completely legal for a woman or a man to opt not to wear a shirt (or bra) in public” yet “a woman going bare-breasted will draw more stares than a man doing the same.” (Independent, Radhika Sanghani, Jun 2014). Lina Esco is an innovator of the gender equality trend due to her global campaign #FreeTheNipple and drive to breaking the social and stereotypical views of women.


influencers ashley graham

Ashley Graham is an influencer to the trend due to high status as a plus size model in the fashion industry. Graham’s recognition became viral from her talk she gave in 2016 title: “Plus Size? More Like My Size”. In it, she described the experiences she had with working in the fashion industry and sharing her empowering sentences she tells herself in the mirror each morning: “You are bold, you are brilliant, and you are beautiful…And thick thighs? You are just so sexy you can’t stop rubbing each other. That’s alright. I’m going to keep you.” She is more than a model due to the launch of a lingerie line designed for women with figures resembling her own. This became a phenomenon

success and that combined with her body positivity campaign, she was set apart of the other models. Appearances in Sports Illustrated and Vogue as the first plus-size model soon followed. Her body positivity campaign continues to inspire others as she has an Instagram following of almost one million, she told Details last year: “People really pour their hearts out to me because they really feel like they are living this whole thing out with me…They’re living out this whole body-diversity, ‘love the skin you’re in’ movement.” (independent, Heather Saul, Jan 2016). Graham’s Influence on body diversity and equality is an inspiration to women who are too afraid to speak out for themselves.

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Colin Kaepernick became an influencer to the Black Lives Matter movement due to the political protest he had made at a football game by not standing for the American National Anthem. Colin Kaepernick has become a Black Lives Matter activist by launching an educational camp to teach underprivileged young people about their rights and opportunities in life called, ‘Know Your Rights Camp.’ The programme takes inspiration from the Black Panther Party’s

’10 point plan,’ listing the rights that each child should know including the right to be free, healthy, safe, educated, alive and to know your rights. Kaepernick hopes to extend his programme across the US. (i-D, Charlotte Gush, November 2016). It is apparent that Kaepernick is doing more than taking a kneel during the national anthem; he is taking a stand for young people everywhere in terms of inequality and stereotypical views (The Root, Monique Judge, Nov 2016).

Colin kaepernick


consumer tribe

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The Socio-Cultural Normality consumer tribe, are eccentric individuals who strive to break social norms and recognize the inequality in the world. They believe in the equality of everyone and living life to the fullest by loving everyone and fighting for what’s right. This consumer tribe can be seen mostly in Generation Z, which comprises age ranges of 16-29, who are up to date with trends and technology. They dress fashionably but do not take too much care about their appearance, as they love to be themselves and be comfortable in their own skin. They can be seen in any restaurant, as they do not take much effort in keeping a slim figure. Their social life is key in this tribe as they take much time on social media sites to express their views on equality and breaking social norms. They thrive off a social atmosphere and are

not shy of sharing their opinions. They are activists within the social media spectrum, using trending hashtags to show their opinion. They spend a lot of time with the people they love and like to have a diverse friend group. They have a love for animals such as cats and dogs, which they could have rescued from a shelter. The consumer tribe are also into art and urban sites and travel to become more cultured and understand the more evolving world. They like to listen to a variety of music genres and TV shows. This consumer tribe specifically expresses their political views on social media and likes to take action in the world to make a change. The tribe does not conform to traditional stereotypes and is keen to explore the inequality that is in the world and the possibilities it holds in fashion, society, culture, politics and the economy.


trend summary

To summarize, the trend introduced a theme of inequality throughout different contexts. This trend came about due to the renewed sense of unity among each other, of respect and compassion, indeed of empathy. The development of social media has given silenced activists voices that can be heard globally within minutes. Actress Sasha Lane says for i-D magazine, “sometimes rules and concepts need to be turned upside down, no one remembers or lives by the girl who sits quietly in the corner.� (i-D, Holly Shackleton, Dec 2016). The Zeitgeist within Generation Z is the optimistic nature that can be portrayed through the Internet that can be seen as their second nature. There is a sense of ambitious change with the trend as the break of social norms is fast becoming an accepting concept.

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referencing Bibliography Abraham, A. (2015) How generation z will change the world | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/how-generation-z-will-change-the-world (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Bazilian, E. (2016) Why more brands are embracing plus-size models. Available at: http://www.adweek.com/news/advertising-branding/why-more-brands-are-embracing-plus-size-models-170984 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Charlotte (2016a) Iconic 90s spice girls track finds new life as modern feminist anthem | watch. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/iconic-90s-spice-girls-track-new-life-as-modern-feminist-anthem (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Charlotte (2016b) Nfl player launches a black panthers-inspired know your rights camp for kids | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/nfl-player-launches-a-black-panthers-inspired-know-your-rights-campfor-kids (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Colin Kaepernick’s anthem protest was inspired by black lives matter movement (2016) Available at: http://www.vibe.com/2016/08/colin-kaepernicks-anthem-protest-inspired-by-black-lives-matter/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Craik, L. (2016) How ‘free the Nipple’ became summer’s biggest fashion trend. Available at: http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/fashion/how-free-the-nipple-became-summers-biggest-fashion-trend-a3318556.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Donnelly, M., Doty, M., Kenneally, T. and Verhoeven, B. (2016) Jaden Smith’s adventures in gender fluidity: What it means, who profits. Available at: http://www.thewrap.com/jaden-smiths-adventures-in-gender-fluidity-whatit-means-who-profits/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Garcia, P. (2015) Patricia Arquette’s equal pay speech at the Oscars was Incredible​​. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/11593273/patricia-arquette-oscars-speech-2015/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Gregory, A. and Demarchelier, P. (2015) Has the fashion industry reached a Transgender turning point? Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13253741/andreja-pejic-transgender-model/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Here’s how many nipples #FreeTheNipple has liberated so far (2015) Available at: https://mic.com/articles/124146/here-s-what-the-free-the-nipple-movement-has-really-accomplished#.m7qLsSJSZ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Mlambo-Ngcuka, P. (2015) Why gender equality is the most critical of all the global goals. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/phumzile-mlambongcuka/why-gender-equality-is-the-most-critical-of-all-the-globalgoals_b_8089650.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Moss, R. (2015) Topshop Apologises for using ‘ridiculously shaped’ mannequin. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2015/07/28/topshop-apologise-thin-mannequin-facebook_n_7884932.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Oakley, N. (2016) Hillary Clinton issues beautiful message to girls after ‘painful’ election loss. Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/hillary-clinton-issues-beautiful-message-9228465 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). O’Connor, C. (2016) What A Hillary Clinton Victory would mean for working women. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/clareoconnor/2016/11/08/what-a-hillary-clinton-victory-would-mean-for-working-women/#61e853d116ac (Accessed: 5 December 2016). of, I.M.P. (2016) JADEN SMITH, LOUIS VUITTON & OUR TOP FIVE GENDER FLUID FASHION AD CAMPAIGNS. Available at: http://blog.indie-mag.com/blog/2016/01/04/jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-our-top-five-genderfluid-fashion-ad-campaigns/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Policy, P. (2016) Gender fluid Photoshoots: Vogue Korea February 2016. Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/vogue-korea-february-2016 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Sanghani, R. (2014) Free the Nipple: Why on earth do women want to walk around topless in public? Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/womens-life/10880647/Topless-women-campaign-to-Free-The-Nipple-why-on-earth-do-women-want-to-walk-around-topless-in-public.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Saul, H. (2016) Ashley Graham: The size 16 model calling for an end to ‘plus size’ labels. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/ashley-graham-size-12-model-barbie-ferreira-end-to-plus-size-labels-a6841431.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Savali, K. (2016) Colin Kaepernick creates ‘know your rights camp’ to empower youths. Available at: http://www.theroot.com/articles/news/2016/11/colin-kaepernick-know-your-rights-camp/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Shackleton, H. (2016) Get the first look at i-d’s big issue! | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/get-the-first-look-at-i-ds-big-issue (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Staff, I.-D. (2016) Jaden smith ist teil der neuen spring-/summer-16-kampagne für die womenswear von louis vuitton | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/de_de/article/jaden-smith-ist-teil-der-neuen-spring-summer-16kampagne-fr-die-womenswear-von-louis-vuitton-315 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Stansfield, T., Khateeb, V. and Dazed (2015) Galliano makes an androgynous statement with boys in couture. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25392/1/galliano-makes-a-statement-for-androgynywith-boys-in-margiela-couture (Accessed: 5 December 2016). The global goals (no date) Available at: http://www.globalgoals.org/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Weinstock, T. (2015) ​how social media is making us all body positive | watch. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/how-social-media-is-making-us-all-body-positive (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (No Date) Available at: http://blacklivesmatter.com/about/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). Citations, Quotes & Annotations Abraham, A. (2015) How generation z will change the world | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/how-generation-z-will-change-the-world (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Abraham, 2015) Bazilian, E. (2016) Why more brands are embracing plus-size models. Available at: http://www.adweek.com/news/advertising-branding/why-more-brands-are-embracing-plus-size-models-170984 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Bazilian, 2016) Charlotte (2016a) Iconic 90s spice girls track finds new life as modern feminist anthem | watch. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/iconic-90s-spice-girls-track-new-life-as-modern-feminist-anthem (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Charlotte, 2016a) Charlotte (2016b) Nfl player launches a black panthers-inspired know your rights camp for kids | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/nfl-player-launches-a-black-panthers-inspired-know-your-rights-campfor-kids (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Charlotte, 2016b) Colin Kaepernick’s anthem protest was inspired by black lives matter movement (2016) Available at: http://www.vibe.com/2016/08/colin-kaepernicks-anthem-protest-inspired-by-black-lives-matter/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Colin Kaepernick’s anthem protest was inspired by black lives matter movement, 2016) Craik, L. (2016) How ‘free the Nipple’ became summer’s biggest fashion trend. Available at: http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/fashion/how-free-the-nipple-became-summers-biggest-fashion-trend-a3318556.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Craik, 2016)

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Donnelly, M., Doty, M., Kenneally, T. and Verhoeven, B. (2016) Jaden Smith’s adventures in gender fluidity: What it means, who profits. Available at: http://www.thewrap.com/ jaden-smiths-adventures-in-gender-fluidity-what-it-means-who-profits/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Donnelly et al., 2016) Garcia, P. (2015) Patricia Arquette’s equal pay speech at the Oscars was Incredible​​. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/11593273/patricia-arquette-oscars-speech-2015/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Garcia, 2015) Gregory, A. and Demarchelier, P. (2015) Has the fashion industry reached a Transgender turning point? Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13253741/andreja-pejic-transgender-model/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Gregory and Demarchelier, 2015) Here’s how many nipples #FreeTheNipple has liberated so far (2015) Available at: https://mic.com/articles/124146/here-s-what-the-free-the-nipple-movement-has-really-accomplished#.m7qLsSJSZ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Here’s how many nipples #FreeTheNipple has liberated so far, 2015) Mlambo-Ngcuka, P. (2015) Why gender equality is the most critical of all the global goals. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/phumzile-mlambongcuka/why-genderequality-is-the-most-critical-of-all-the-global-goals_b_8089650.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Mlambo-Ngcuka, 2015) Moss, R. (2015) Topshop Apologises for using ‘ridiculously shaped’ mannequin. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2015/07/28/topshop-apologise-thin-mannequin-facebook_n_7884932.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Moss, 2015) Oakley, N. (2016) Hillary Clinton issues beautiful message to girls after ‘painful’ election loss. Available at: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/hillary-clinton-issues-beautiful-message-9228465 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Oakley, 2016) O’Connor, C. (2016) What A Hillary Clinton Victory would mean for working women. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/clareoconnor/2016/11/08/what-a-hillary-clintonvictory-would-mean-for-working-women/#61e853d116ac (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (O’Connor, 2016) of, I.M.P. (2016) JADEN SMITH, LOUIS VUITTON & OUR TOP FIVE GENDER FLUID FASHION AD CAMPAIGNS. Available at: http://blog.indie-mag.com/blog/2016/01/04/ jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-our-top-five-gender-fluid-fashion-ad-campaigns/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (of, 2016) Policy, P. (2016) Gender fluid Photoshoots: Vogue Korea February 2016. Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/vogue-korea-february-2016 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Policy, 2016) Sanghani, R. (2014) Free the Nipple: Why on earth do women want to walk around topless in public? Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/womens-life/10880647/ Topless-women-campaign-to-Free-The-Nipple-why-on-earth-do-women-want-to-walk-around-topless-in-public.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Sanghani, 2014) Saul, H. (2016) Ashley Graham: The size 16 model calling for an end to ‘plus size’ labels. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/ashley-graham-size-12-modelbarbie-ferreira-end-to-plus-size-labels-a6841431.html (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Saul, 2016) Savali, K. (2016) Colin Kaepernick creates ‘know your rights camp’ to empower youths. Available at: http://www.theroot.com/articles/news/2016/11/colin-kaepernick-know-yourrights-camp/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Savali, 2016) Shackleton, H. (2016) Get the first look at i-d’s big issue! | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/get-the-first-look-at-i-ds-big-issue (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Shackleton, 2016) Staff, I.-D. (2016) Jaden smith ist teil der neuen spring-/summer-16-kampagne für die womenswear von louis vuitton | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/de_de/article/jadensmith-ist-teil-der-neuen-spring-summer-16-kampagne-fr-die-womenswear-von-louis-vuitton-315 (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Staff, 2016) Stansfield, T., Khateeb, V. and Dazed (2015) Galliano makes an androgynous statement with boys in couture. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25392/1/ galliano-makes-a-statement-for-androgyny-with-boys-in-margiela-couture (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Stansfield, Khateeb, and Dazed, 2015) The global goals (no date) Available at: http://www.globalgoals.org/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (The global goals, no date) Weinstock, T. (2015) ​how social media is making us all body positive | watch. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/how-social-media-is-making-us-all-body-positive (Accessed: 5 December 2016). (Weinstock, 2015) (No Date) Available at: http://blacklivesmatter.com/about/ (Accessed: 5 December 2016). ([CSL STYLE ERROR: reference with no printed form.])


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