Taste of Florence 2011

Taste of

FLORENCE

THE BEST RESTAURANTS & FLAVOURS

Taste of

FLORENCE

THE BEST RESTAURANTS & FLAVOURS

“[...] Ye citizens Were wont to name me Ciacco. For the sin Of gluttony, damned vice, beneath this rain, E’en as thou seest, I with fatigue am worn: Nor I sole spirit in this woe: all these Have by like crime incurr’d like punishment.”

The divine comedy of Dante Alighieri Hell, Canto VI (51-56)

The merits and symbols of Florence and Tuscany include catering and the culture of wine and food, which are greatly appreciated by an ever growing number of foreign visitors who consider their culinary experience here as being one of the reasons for their stay.

Taste of Florence wishes to answer this need by presenting this practical guidebook on quality catering, divided into various areas and containing all the necessary information on where to dine or spend a relaxing day or evening.

Restaurants Index

Santa Croce

Santa Maria Novella

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Enoteca Nazionale Pinchiorri Il Palagio at Four Seasons Hotel Natalino Fellini La Baraonda Fish Restaurant Boccanegra Trattoria Accadì FrancescoVini

40 41 42 43 44 45

Trattoria La Carabaccia Capriccio at Hotel Montebello Splendid ORVM at The Westin Excelsior Sabatini Ostaria dei Centopoveri Parione

Cathedral & Uffizi

Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

Buca Lapi Il Bargello Cantinetta Antinori H&B Hostaria Bibendum at Helvetia & Bristol Trattoria Antico Fattore Obikà Trattoria Coco Lezzone dei Frescobaldi Ristorante & Wine Bar Cantinetta dei Verrazzano Ora d’Aria The Clubhouse Le Antiche Carrozze

48

49 50 51 52 53 54 55

Onice Lounge & Restaurant at Relais & Chateaux Villa La Vedetta Trattoria 4 Leoni Trattoria Celestino Trattoria Mamma Gina Flet Nove Restaurant & Wine Bar Maracanà Grill Trattoria Vittoria

Just outside the city walls

58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

Il Verrochio at Villa La Massa Villa San Michele at Hotel Villa San Michele La Terrazza at Il Salviatino Trattoria Omero Centanni Zibibbo La Capponcina di Settignano Trattoria di’ Sor Paolo Vinandro India

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Tuscan Cooking Simple ingredients beautifully cooked

P

lain, simple and basic, the Tuscan cuisine needs little elaboration to be able to conquer new admirers. The care given to the quality of the basic ingredients is an essential part of Tuscan cultural traditions, still closely linked to country cooking and genuine products. You only need taste a slice of Tuscan bread soaked in olive oil to appreciate the essence of this cuisine. The locally produced extra-virgin oil is in fact of exceptional quality, wonderful whether cooked or raw, and accompanies almost all the most characteristic recipes in the region.

A Tuscan style lunch starts with a meaty appetiser based on cold cuts (including savoury salted ham), and croutons, slices of toast spread with a paté made with chicken livers, spleen of veal, capers and butter. Traditional first courses include simple but delicious vegetable soups like the ‘pappa col pomodoro’, made with tomato, garlic, basil and pepper, or the ‘ribollita’, made with vegetables cooked for hours, the flavour brought out by a last minute topping of oil. Pappardelle (ribbon pasta) served with a hare sauce made with red wine, oil and tomato, is just one of the typical pasta dishes.

The world famous Florentine steak, a special cut of prized Chianina beef, is a symbolic second course, though we should also include characteristic Tuscan tripe, flavoured with bacon, tomato and Parmesan.

The most popular legumes are beans, cultivated here from Etruscan times and either cooked ‘all’uccelletto’ (in tomato sauce with sage) or in a wine flask. Like the soups, vegetables are almost always tossed in a frying pan with oil and garlic - spinach, artichokes, baby marrows - or fried, like, for example, the crunchy marrow flowers. Typical dishes in the summer months are the ‘pinzimonio’ or sliced fresh vegetable dip of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or classic fresh field salads.

6

Renaissance Cooking The Art of Cooking

B

anqueting was one of the expressions of Renaissance court culture and is why we can find some of the most famous artists and craftsmen of the time (Buontalenti for example) dedicating themselves to their staging and organisation. Culinary art became a science and, thanks to the recipe books, instructions for etiquette and manuals on table-laying and decoration that were published, it was also passed down to posterity.

The dominating taste was apparently based on sweet sugar-based flavours, which, for the court society, became a sign of social distinction and linked more to ostentation than the palate.

Cooks, on the other hand, discovered that the use of spices was indispensable for cooking the dishes requested with greater creativity, thus adapting themselves to the tastes of their masters and to the established rule that prefers whatever is rare and costly according to the principle of magnificence and luxury. Compared to the past, the Renaissance cuisine stands out above all for the extraordinarily rich ingredients that were used. Despite the fact that they were not yet completely integrated into the culinary culture, products, like maize, tomatoes and marrows began to arrive from the Americas, while turkey quickly replaced goose, queen of the mediaeval table. There was also a much wider use of butchered meat in this period, especially beef and veal, together with a growing passion for entrails and offal from butchered animals, birds and even fish. Although milk and its derivatives were rarely used in noble kitchens in the past, during the Renaissance they became the basic ingredients for preparing many dishes. Butter and cream almost completely replaced lard in the kitchen and cheeses, made in a wide variety of ways, at last appear on the table.

8

Catherine de’ Medici The Medici influence on the Court of France

W

e cannot avoid mentioning Catherine de’ Medici, if we want to talk about Tuscan cooking and the Florentine cuisine in particular. This great queen and important sponsor of Italian art went to France in 1533 as the bride of the Duke of Orléans, the second son of the King of France.

Although Francis I, her father-in-law, adored her, her husband, who far preferred his mistress Diana de Poitiers, could hardly bear her. Catherine was clever enough to remain discreetly in the background, in spite of the fact that she possessed a far more refined culture than the French nobility, who were still linked to the traditions of the Middle Ages.

Catherine found relief from her husband’s continual unfaithfulness in good food. She liked to put on a apron and cook her children’s meals herself, taking over from the cooks of the Court. A gourmet and a great drinker, she even risked dying from an attack of indigestion brought on by chicken giblets, a famous Florentine dish known as “cibreo”, after a luncheon held in April 1549 for her thirtieth birthday.

This great ambassadress of Florentine culture not only managed to make her specialities famous in France, but also on the other side of the Channel, for we can find an Elizabethan poet waxing enthusiastic over “creams, cakes and amusing Florentine women for sweetening the palate and the mind”.

In those days the prestige of the powerful grew according to the amount they ate and drank, while that of the women depended on the number of children they bred. Apart from her culinary talents, Catherine managed to conquer the esteem of the Court of France by giving birth to nine children . . . though this was nothing compared to Florentine Dianora Salviati, wife of the eminent wine producer Bartolommeo de’ Frescobaldi, who gave birth to as many as fiftytwo infants and never less than three with each pregnancy.

10

Tuscan Wines From the grape to the bottle

T

uscany, as we know, produces some very high quality wines. Its hills are covered in vineyards, one of the oldest forms of farming in Italy and nowhere else can boast such a wide variety of wines. Here you can taste the best of the red wines from the Chianti, the Brunello of Montalcino, the Vino Nobile of Montepulciano and the Carmignano or the Morellino of Scansano, just to mention some of those known worldwide, or the freshest of white wines, like the Vernaccia of San Gimignano, the Pomino, the Ansonica or the Elba wines.

The wine making process obviously varies from wine to wine but is usually based on two methods, one for the reds and one for the whites. Here we would like to give a rough idea on what happens to the grapes, from the time they are picked to the moment the wine bottle is uncorked on the table, and discover the particular characteristics of both processes.

Red wine is made by allowing the grapes to ferment with the pips and stalks. Once the first main fermenting process is over, the wine is drawn off from the vats. The first decanting takes place at the beginning of the winter, in order to separate the wine from its natural residue.

A second decanting takes place in the early spring when the stability and clarity of the new wine is controlled, though it must still be left to mature for a little longer before being opened at the table.

Young wines should be served at room temperature, with the bottle opened at the moment of drinking, while vintage wines are characterised by a much stronger alcohol content. Harsh and bitter to begin with, they become har-

12

monious and pleasant in time and can be kept without any problems for over 15 years, if the bottles are kept lying down in a cool dark cellar.

The bottle should be opened a few minutes before serving and half an hour beforehand if a vintage wine. The older vintages should be poured before serving into special decanters to separate the wine from the naturally formed grounds.

The process for making white wine differs mainly from that used for the reds by the fact that the solid parts, or grape pips and stalks, are not left to ferment with the must. In this way the wine does not absorb tannins or substances that can give it colour. This is why white wines can also be made with black grapes: they only require a gentle pressing, when the pips and stalk are immediately separated from the must, and thus do not absorb any colour. Nowadays, by picking the grapes earlier and allowing the must to ferment at a controlled temperature, it is possible to obtain lively and scented wines with a lower alcoholic content than in the past. The white wines mature fairly quickly and are ready only a short time after harvesting. We advise you to drink them at once to appreciate their initial freshness and fragrance. The bottles can be kept in a cool dark place from between one to three years.

14

Trattoria AccadĂŹ natalino Il Palagio

Boccanegra

Fellini

La Baraonda

francescovini enoteca nazionale pinchiorri

Enoteca Nazionale Pinchiorri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Il Palagio at Four Seasons Hotel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Natalino. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Fellini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 La Baraonda Fish Restaurant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Boccanegra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Trattoria AccadĂŹ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 FrancescoVini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 16 > Santa Croce

Santa Croce “Who doth ambition shun, And loves to live i’ th’ sun, Seeking the food he eats, And pleased with what he gets, Come hither, come hither, come hither!”

William Shakespeare “If music be the food of love, play on, Give me excess of it that, surfeiting, The appetite may sicken and so die” William Shakespeare Santa Croce > 17

Enoteca Nazionale Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.242757 +39 055.242777 www.enotecapinchiorri.com

Open for dinner only 19.30-22.15 Closed on Sundays & Mondays

18 > Santa Croce

Excellence, elegance and sobriety, combined with passion and research, are what mark the philosophy of Restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri. The menu is an exercise of style in the interpretation of the traditional Tuscan cooking culture.

The cuisine is a mixture of art, technical perfection and a careful selection of the best product quality. Annie FĂŠolde takes us on a journey into memories of taste, where knowledge, creativity and care for original flavours are expressed in her exclusive recipes. On this refined itinerary, world famous sommelier Giorgio Pinchiorri allows us to discover the wines in his collection and also helps us to really understand the meanings behind what we have discovered.

The quietly animated atmosphere of Enoteca Pinchiorri is the perfect place for people to meet, thanks also to the refined courtesy of the staff. While engraved silverware crafted by Florentine silversmiths, rare porcelain by Richard Ginori and crystal glasses are carelessly passed back and forth from the table to our hands, we live an unforgettable experience, where the various courses and the wines integrate and harmonise with each other in a crescendo of flavours and priceless bottles that bear labels impossible to find elsewhere.

Il Palagio Located on the ground floor of the Palazzo Della Gherardesca inside the wonderful Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, Il Palagio features vaulted ceilings, elegant dĂŠcor and lovely views of the inner gardens. Large French doors open to a terrace that offers al fresco dining during clement weather.

A seasonal menu features regional cuisine prepared with a contemporary twist, accompanied by exceptional Italian wines. A wide variety of Ă la carte items is offered for dinner. Authentic Italian cuisine is thoughtfully prepared featuring local flavours. Executive Chef Vito Mollica and his team also prepare multi-course tasting menus with wine and food pairings.

Furthermore, a relaxing atmosphere can be enjoyed at the Sunday Brunch: to enrich the delicious buffet the special creations of Vito Mollica and his staff, always ready to surprise their guests with refined products throughout the year. A perfect combination of culinary art and the typical products from the best regional companies attending at every Sunday brunch.

Internationally recognized standards for service complete an exceptional gastronomic experience. Seats 60 indoors, 60 outdoors.

Ristorante Il Palagio at Four Seasons Hotel Borgo Pinti, 99 50121 Florence Tel. +39 055.2626450 Fax +39 055.2626505 www.fourseasons.com/ florence ilpalagio@fourseasons.com

Open daily for dinner only 19.00-23.00 Closed on Sundays from November 1st 2011 until May 2012 Sunday Brunch from October until June Closed on January & February

Santa Croce > 19

Natalino Borgo degli Albizi, 17r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.289404 www.ristorantenatalino.com

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Mondays

20 > Santa Croce

Situated in the former church of San Piero Maggiore, which still shows traces of ancient capitals and decorations, in the quarter of Santa Croce, Restaurant Natalino has been one of the city’s best known restaurants for the last 130 years.

A popular meeting place for Florentine artists, Restaurant Natalino is famous throughout the world for its interpretation of the traditional local cooking, from the delicious starters to the classical Florentine first courses - ribollita or fresh pasta served with various sauces - or the grilled meats.

The menu and wine list offer a perfect food and wine experience, with simply prepared seasonal products cooked in the knowledge of ancient traditions. Tables are set up outside from April onwards making for pleasant lunches against a shaded and characteristic setting, or candlelit dining, far from the city traffic in one of the most picturesque corners of ancient Florence.

The quality of the cooking, the fascinating environs and welcoming family atmosphere trasform dining at Natalino’s into a voyage into the Italian way of life.

Natalino now doubles with the recently opened Wine Bar, ideal for lunchtime breaks, offering typical platters, tasty snacks and sandwiches and also selling bottles of excellent vintage wine.

Fellini Fellini is a new and innovative restaurant that aspires to be one of the gourmet places in Florence. The name and the choice of the location, opposite the old Teatro Verdi, tells of the owner Pierluigi Di Pasquale’s passion for cinema‌ and good food.

The restaurant welcomes its guests into a refined and intimate atmosphere, perfect for a romantic evening. The ambience is very nice, with well spaced tables, Murano glass lamps, shielded by original drapery, which emits a soft light: all of which creates a tranquil environment, ideal for a relaxing and pleasant dinner. The seafood-based menu offers a large selection of shellfish and seafood appetizers which give richness to the first course. The second course is updated daily to make space for the fresh catch of the day, the Catalan Fellini triumph with lobster, shrimp, and red shrimp. Some meat dishes make Fellini the perfect chance for a special dinner even if not all guests love fish.

Chef Claudio Nardello produces delicious dishes in his kitchen with impeccable balance of intense but delicate flavor, with his excellent technique of enhancing the quality of basic ingredients without weighting it down with additional flavors. The result is a sober and distinct cuisine that can satisfy the most demanding palates.

The service is refined and punctual and the cellars are well stocked with quality wines.

Via Ghibellina, 134r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.2478898 www.ristorantefellini.it

Open for dinner only 19.00-1.00

Santa Croce > 21

La Baraonda Fish Restaurant Via Ghibellina 67r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.2260038 www.labaraonda.it

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-22.30

22 > Santa Croce

La Baraonda Fish Restaurant, located in the famous Santa Croce Square neighborhood, offers an unique chance to taste the real flavours of Naples and the Amalfi Coast deep in the heart of Florence. La Baraonda will welcome you in a friendly yet sophisticated athmosphere. The marble bench from the old Tuscan wine shop, the original grit floor, the coffered ceiling with exposed beams in the lobby make La Baraonda an evocative modern environment deeply sunk in the tradition. Make sure you try the hand made “ravioloni” filled with seabass, Gragnano pasta with tuna, eggplants, capers and tomato sauce, the typical “Coppetiello” (fried fish & calamaro with fried vegetables) and the “Catalana” (steamed lobster, prawns, shrimps and other shellfishes with a special Tuscan olive oil & Sorrento lemons sauce). It will be an unforgettable experience! An excellent Raw Fish selection is available daily. Great place both for a romantic dinner and for a family sunday lunch or just a chilly glass of wine or champagne, sitting at the tables on the outdoor patio. Cooking classes can be requested with a minimum of 2 people.

Boccanegra Restaurant Boccanegra is situated in 16th century Palazzo Salviati in the heart of Florence, right opposite the Teatro Verdi in Via Ghibellina and only a few steps away from Piazza Santa Croce and the Cathedral. Its very special site also inspired its name; Simon Boccanegra, the first Doge of Genoa, was also a Ghibelline, as well as being the subject of a famous opera by Giuseppe Verdi. An antique wooden door set in a glass wall leads into an attractive period styled interior, while the 19th century furniture creates an elegant but also warmly welcoming environment.

The Restaurant offers a haute cuisine based on meat and fish, cooked using ancient but revisited local recipes, all spectacularly arranged.

The Osteria, another of the restaurant’s attractions, with an independent entrance in Via Verdi, is dedicated to the traditional Tuscan cuisine.

The cellars, which contain a carefully selected range of wines, are situated in the foundations of the building, built onto the lower parts of the ancient walls of Florence.

The new Cantinetta, a venue right next door to the restaurant, offers its clients wine tasting matched with various delicacies from the kitchens.

The restaurant is therefore perfect for hosting important occasions and events.

• Restaurant Via Ghibellina, 124r • Osteria Via Verdi, 27r 50122 Florence Tel +39 055.2001098 Fax +39 055.2263038 www.boccanegra.com

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-24.00 Closed on Sundays

Santa Croce > 23

Trattoria AccadĂŹ Borgo Pinti, 56r 50121 Florence Tel. +39 055.2478410 www.trattoriaaccadi.com

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Sundays & for lunch on Mondays

24 > Santa Croce

A fine Tuscan cuisine based on quality, with age old recipes that have been handed down through the centuries, and a staff that is dedicated to providing quality and service at the best prices possible.

The atmosphere is typical of Tuscany: rustic and friendly.

The menu, beautifully cooked by the Japanese chef and proprietor, includes delicious fresh seafood dishes, plus the antipasto specialties of the house, local soups like Ribollita (vegetable bread soup) or Pappa al Pomodoro (tomato bread soup), and pastas, tripe dishes, the traditional peposo (meat and pepper stew), and the restaurant’s famous Ossobuco or marrowbone stew (Brunelleschi’s favourite), all served with its own special selections of wine.

The specialities of the house not only include the traditional platters, but also really fresh fish that the chef prepares in imaginative recipes; the vegetables of the season complete the simple but original menu. The cellar boasts a great choice of many important labels from among the best wines in Italy.

One of the special house desserts makes a perfect end to the meal!

FrancescoVini Located in one of the oldest buildings in Florence, situated above the ruins of the Roman Amphitheater. FrancescoVini offers the best quality food for our customers and typical Tuscan dishes made famous in Florence and refined by our talented chefs. Founded by Francesco La Brusco in 1977 from a local “vinaino” in the Santa Croce district he transformed it into FrancescoVini, a local deli offering the best wines produced in the region of Tuscany and the most delicious homemade sandwiches, then into a beautiful neighborhood lunch spot and grocer. Thirty years later his son, Fabio La Brusco, continued the family tradition by renovating the restaurant, restructuring and expanding it to over four times the size and transforming it into one of the most beautiful restaurants in the historical city center. Elegance, tradition and quality remain the principles factors that have made FrancescoVini famous for over 30 years. Fresh pasta, the best quality meats and delicious homemade dessert make up the spectacular menu. The passion for wine still remains one of the most important characteristics of FrancescoVini. Wines specifically originating from the Tuscan region make up the extensive wine cellar, originally restructured by the Peruzzi family in the 1400’s out of the ruins of the Roman Amphitheater located beneath the restaurant. It now serves as the cantina, hosting more than one hundred labels for connoisseurs or wine lovers. With a menu filled with delicious Italian dishes, the cantina provides wines that will perfectly match any dish at FrancescoVini.

Borgo dei Greci 7r Piazza Peruzzi, 8r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.218737 www.francescovini.com

Open from 9am to midnight Closed on Sundays in summer & on Mondays in winter

Santa Croce > 25

the club house

cantinetta antinori Obikà buca lapi

hostaria bibendum

cantinetta dei verrazzano

il bargello

dei frescobaldi trattoria antico fattore

trattoria coco lezzone

le antiche carrozze

Ora d’aria

Buca Lapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Il Bargello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Cantinetta Antinori. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 H&B Hostaria Bibendum at Helvetia & Bristol. . . . . . . . . . . 29 Trattoria Antico Fattore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Obikà. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Trattoria Coco Lezzone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 dei Frescobaldi Ristorante & Wine Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Cantinetta dei Verrazzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Ora d’Aria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 The Club House. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Le Antiche Carrozze. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 26 > Cathedral & Uffizi

Cathedral Uffizi

&

“Yet shall you have to rectify your palate, An olive, capers, or some better salad Ushering the mutton; with a short-legged hen, If we can get her, full of eggs, and then, Limons, and wine for sauce: to these a coney Is not to be despaired of for our money; And though fowl now be scarce, yet there are clerks, The sky not falling, think we may have larks�

Ben Jonson Cathedral & Uffizi > 27

Buca Lapi Palazzo Antinori Via del Trebbio, 1r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.213768 Fax +39 055.284862 www.bucalapi.com

Open for dinner only 19.00-22.30 Closed on Sundays

28 > Cathedral & Uffizi

Founded in 1880, Buca Lapi is the oldest restaurant in the city. Situated in the cellars of Palazzo Antinori, it still shows traces of its ancient history, thanks to the careful restoration that has returned the valuable frescoes decorating the dining room to their original splendour. The kitchen is open designed, because, according to the successful and well known cook Luciano Ghinassi, who runs Buca Lapi, “watching is as important as tasting”. Every day he supervises the staff and personally prepares the hot and fragrant desserts that are served in the evening.

The dishes on the menu recall the authentic flavours of the ancient Tuscan cuisine: hot croutons, ribollita (vegetable bread soup), home made pasta, wild boar with polenta, fried tripe or mixed fries. They also include the famous Florentine steaks - Buca Lapi’s “chianina” meat - thick and well cooked on the outside, tender and hot inside, grilled on hot charcoal and seasoned with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.

The wine list includes some of the best labels in Italy, with particular attention to the wines from the Antinori farms, that were already sold from these cellars in the 15th century.

One of Italy’s best known trattorias, Buca Lapi is very popular among Florentines and visitors alike, making it essential to book a table well in advance.

Il Bargello Ristorante Il Bargello is located in Piazza della Signoria alongside the Loggia dei Lanzi and just across the square from ancient Palazzo Vecchio. The Uffizi Gallery, a must for any art lover, is just around the corner.

The restaurant occupies the site of the 14th century hostelry known as the Cella or Locanda del Buco, from which Chiasso del Buco, the narrow street beside it, derives its name.

The structure of Il Bargello has changed very little since then. The entrance is different, as well as minor alterations to the rooms, but the spirit and substance of ancient Florentine culinary traditions are just the same. The refined and tasty menus are based on the typical Florentine cuisine, so acclaimed by Pietro Aretino, as in the past. The choice of dishes is vast and the staff are only too pleased to advise clients on the best platter of the day and a good wine to go with it.

Although it looks small from the outside, the restaurant is very spacious within and can seat over 100 people, without forgetting its huge outside terrace that overlooks the whole of the beautiful and fascinating square.

Piazza della Signoria, 4r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.214071 www.ilbargello.it

Open for lunch and dinner 11.30-22.30 Closed on Mondays

Cathedral & Uffizi > 29

Cantinetta Antinori Piazza Antinori, 3 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.292234 www.cantinetta-antinori.com

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Saturdays & Sundays

30 > Cathedral & Uffizi

The Cantinetta Antinori can be found on the ground floor of Palazzo Antinori, one of the finest examples of mid 15th century Florentine architecture, in the old city centre of Florence. The entrance to the Cantinetta is situated just after the main entrance into the palace and displays the symbol of the Guild of the Vinattieri or Wine Vendors, to which Giovanni di Piero, the first member of the Antinori family, was enrolled in 1385. Open for lunch and dinner the restaurant also offers the chance of tasting the taste the entire range of Antinori wines in the bottle or by the glass and matched with a selection of specialities from the Tuscan cuisine, many of which are prepared with ingredients from the various family estates in Tuscany and Umbria. The dishes on the menu vary according to the products of the season so as to ensure the freshness of raw materials. Every day, in addition to the more classic and sophisticated dishes, our chef proposes specialities that are more specifically related to the seasonality of the ingredients. The Antinori family has been making wine for over six hundred years, ever since Giovanni di Piero Antinori became a member of the Florentine Guild of Vinattieri in 1385. Throughout the family’s long history, which spans 26 generations, it has always maintained an unwavering respect for the traditions and the territory, establishing a strong link with the countryside and its rhythms. This passion, combined with the pleasure of hospitality and good food, can only be found and be revealed in unique places, rich in tradition, like the Cantinetta Antinori.

H&B Hostaria Bibendum Fads and fashions come and go but classic elegance remains and if you are looking for a hotel in Florence that belongs to the traditional school of luxury, the Helvetia and Bristol may well be it. A sumptuous urban Palace, the hotel was founded more than a century ago by a Swiss family and its name also commemorates its popularity with aristocratic British connoisseurs and art collectors on tour. Antique woods, the grey-blue pietra serena stone pillars, Carrara marble and paintings from the seventeenth century fill this atmosphere with tradition and grandeur. The designers’ superb selection of luxurious fabrics adds refined sensual touches to both the lounge bar and, of course, the private rooms where silk, lace and brocade give refined opulence.

The fashionable bar & restaurant “Hostaria Bibendum” with its alfresco dehors opens its doors for lunch, afternoon tea or a candlelit dinner, a truly authentic experience that is not to be missed.

The menu is typically Mediterranean and determined entirely by the seasons, but the talent of Executive Chef Enzo Pettè transforms familiar local dishes into haute-cuisine masterpieces. This is not a menu to write about, but one to taste and enjoy. If you prefer classic style and comfort to fussy “design orientation” this is our recommendation for Florence. From here you will have the city at your feet and can relax in the knowledge that the Ponte Vecchio bridge, the stunning cathedral, and Michelangelo’s David are waiting, literally, around the corner.

Hotel Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 2 50123 Florence Tel +39 055.26651 Fax +39 055.288353 www.royaldemeure.com

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-22.30

Cathedral & Uffizi > 31

Trattoria Antico Fattore Via Lambertesca, 1r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.288975 Fax +39 055.283341 www.anticofattore.it anticofattore@interfree.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Sundays

32 > Cathedral & Uffizi

Tucked in a narrow street behind the Uffizi Gallery, and next door to the historic building hosting the Academy of the Georgofili, the Antico Fattore also boasts a long and illustrious past while offering all the genuine atmosphere and character of an authentic Florentine trattoria. Founded

by Sor Giulio in 1865 (the venue boasts 147 years of history), it soon became a popular eating place among the farmers who sold their wares in Piazza della Signoria. The food was typical home cooking, based on simple ingredients, in other words traditional menus that make up the famed Florentine cuisine. It was soon discovered by the painters, poets and writers (among them De Chirico, Morandi, Carra, Montale and Quasimodo) of the time and became one of their favourite places to meet and dine. The official dinner for the International Ruffino Antico Fattore literary prize has been held here every year since 1930. Now the prize has turned into a scientific competition held by the famous Accademia dei Georgofili, awarding the best scientific pamphlets about wine or olive oil. Although seriously damaged by the bomb explosion in 1993, the trattoria has retained its warm and welcoming atmosphere, its characteristic yet elegant setting, and simple but beautifully cooked Tuscan menus. Needless to say it boasts an excellent cellar of fine wines.

Obikà The Obikà Mozzarella Bar in Florence is situated in a historic palace in Via Tornabuoni in the heart of the city. Obikà Mozzarella Bar is a new concept of informal Italian catering based on research into the best buffalo mozzarella from Campania, on homemade and high quality Italian recipes and products, prepared and presented “on view”, being formally inspired by the traditions of sushi bars.

In the Neapolitan dialect Obikà means “Here it is,” while the logo itself recalls Japanese calligraphy. The designs for all the Obikà Mozzarella Bars focus on a contemporary, warm and luminous image. The Labics studio in Rome, which has worked on all the projects, has used natural materials like iron, wood and glass, with transparent windows and the fabric printed logo in the interior to achieve these results.

The menu not only offers the chance to taste Buffalo Mozzarella DOP from Campania, buffalo mozzarella rolls and buffalo burrata, but also combined tastings from the recipes of Dario Cecchini, the famous butcher from Panzano in Chianti and a menu of Pizzas made with home-ground flour that is leavened naturally for 48 hours. The menu is completed by several meat dishes that include fillet tartar or chicken breast served with caponata.

Via Tornabuoni 16 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.2773526 www.obika.it

Open daily 10.00-23.00

Cathedral & Uffizi > 33

Trattoria Coco Lezzone Via del Parioncino, 26r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.287178 Fax +39 055.280349 www.cocolezzone.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.15 Closed on Sundays & for dinner on Tuesdays

34 > Cathedral & Uffizi

Trattoria Coco Lezzone is one of the oldest and most authentic restaurants in Florence. The Paoli family has been running it for decades and every day proposes different dishes based on ancient recipes made with the best products on the market. The mythical roast pork, slow-cooked in an 19th century wood oven (still in perfect working order) or the thin sliced steaks “just like Granny used to make”, are all delicious.

Real specialities are the traditional Florentine soups, like the pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup), ribollita (vegetable bread soup) and white beans soup. The menu is always inspired by the early products of the season: white truffles, porcini mushrooms and ovoli mushrooms in the winter; freshly podded beans or peas, and asparagus in the spring.

Here you can quite often come across the many famous celebrities who are now Coco’s regular clients, like Prince Charles of England, Roberto Benigni, Monica Vitti, Leonardo Pieraccioni, Luca di Montezemolo, Diego Della Valle and many others.

Allow the restaurant to advise you on the wines for your meal as even the house wines are excellent.

dei Frescobaldi Ristorante & Wine Bar A beautiful restaurant & wine bar located in the heart of Florence, next to Piazza della Signoria. An elegant yet at the same time informal setting, it has a warm and lively atmosphere and decor.

You will find Duccio Magni’s enthusiasm inviting as he explains the traditional Tuscan menu, which changes seasonally and is well presented. The pasta dishes are freshly made daily, for example, the potato gnocchi, the fettuccine and the pumpkin ravioli with amaretti. The tasty main dishes include guinea-fowl with grapes, herb roasted pork, roasted leg of lamb and veal, ossobuco, and lighter dishes such as beef and tuna tartare. You must also try the grilled meats especially the tender Florentine steak. And to finish, the chef Alessandro makes his own desserts.

In the adjacent wine bar Frescobaldino, you may enjoy a glass of wine paired with Italian “tapas,” composed of typical regional cheeses, salamis and fresh salads.

Via de’ Magazzini,2-4r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.284724 Fax +39 055.2656535 www.deifrescobaldi.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Sundays, & for lunch on Mondays & 3 weeks in August

Cathedral & Uffizi > 35

Cantinetta dei Verrazzano Via dei Tavolini, 18r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.268590 www.verrazzano.com

Open 8.00-21.00 & in July & August 8.00-16.00 Closed on Sundays

36 > Cathedral & Uffizi

The Cantinetta, part of the Castle of Verrazzano, is a lovely balance between a wine bar and a gourmet café.

An immaculate display of fresh breads, foccacce, pastries and rustic biscuits welcomes you at the entrance. Offering ample seating, the large walnut and marble room is a perfect place in the morning for a cream filled pastry, the coffee of your choice or freshly squeezed juices. A wood burning oven is situated behind the selection of fresh foccacce prepared with local ingredients.

The “enoteca,” or wine bar instead offers specialties from the Greve in Chianti butcher’s shop, tasting of wines, spirits or other products from the Castle of Verrazzano, like the “thousand flower honey”, the DOP approved extra virgin olive oil, or a few drops of the 20 year old balsamic vinegar on mature pecorino cheese.

Taste the “pane di vino” (bread of wine) and discover the story behind it, or the wild mint with lemon zest, hot foccacce with fresh pecorino and thyme, or the cecina and chestnut tart. Ask the staff to advise you on the best wine to match with these delicacies, some of our favorites are Donna Clara, a blend of Traminer and Trebbiano, Chianti Classico Riserva, traditional Vin Santo, Grappa Riserva and Supertuscans.

Ora d’Aria The Ora d’Aria restaurant is situated between the Uffizi Gallery and Ponte Vecchio; it is based, both in the kitchen and as a project, on contemporary gastronomy, and therefore should not be missed.

The brand new interior is elegant and minimalist: there is no mystery about the kitchen, separated from the refined main dining room, decorated in shades of grey and white, only by a large glass window.

Marco Stabile, the Chef, expresses his taste with platters inspired by Tuscan culture, especially meat, together with occasional sea food surprises.

The menu is basically designed around seasonal ingredients and the prime materials are always fresh and selected from among the many products in the territory.

The dinner tasting menu is particularly interesting as it proposes samples of some of the restaurant’s very best dishes at 50 euro. A comprehensive and dynamic menu is available at lunchtime and ranges from single dishes, which are different every day, to a traditional menu for people who have time to enjoy the wonderful cuisine.

The service is attentive though never intrusive. The wine list features 600 labels divided between Tuscany, Piedmont, the rest of Italy and France, while the open-view cellar in the room on the lower floor makes a meal there even more exciting.

Via dei Georgofili, 11r 50122 Florence Tel. +39 055.2001699 www.oradariaristorante.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-22.00 Closed on Sundays & for lunch on Mondays

Cathedral & Uffizi > 37

The Club House Via de’ Ginori 6r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.211427 www.theclubhouse.it

Open daily 12.00-24.00

38 > Cathedral & Uffizi

You can find The Club House in the near vicinity of Piazza San Lorenzo, close by the famous Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

The venue, which covers an area of 1000 square metres, is a marvel of innovation and multi-functionality. The structure is in fact divided into five different areas: the American bar, open daily from 6pm to 2am, the pizzeria with a wood oven, the exclusive restaurant area, the delightful wine bar for wine tasting and the events room, which is available for private parties and musical evenings with DJs and live music.

It is therefore a cosmopolitan venue where one can meet people from all over the world in an international atmosphere, though it also boasts a regular Florentine clientele.

The Club House is the ideal place to follow all national and international sporting events. The restaurant is in fact provided with many large TV screens and has a Sky connection with all the major satellite channels for sporting events. The cuisine ranges from traditional American dishes like hamburgers, cheeseburgers and club sandwiches to the Italian and Tuscan cuisine in particular, with pasta, meat and fish dishes as well as pizzas. As for the drinks, the restaurant is specialised in Martini cocktails which are served in a wide variety of ways.

Le Antiche Carrozze Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers.

It is the ideal place to discover the real “Florentine Steak� of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a wood-burning oven. The Restaurant is a perfect place for a dinner as it is near most hotels, but is also handy for a quick lunch break before you start off again on your tour of the city monuments or your shopping in the city stores. The staff will give you the cordial welcome that is so typical of the jovial character of the Florentines and offer professional and excellent advice on the best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines. If you really enjoy good food, at the Antiche Carrozze you can be sure of tasting old-fashioned and original flavours and also experiencing the suggestive sensations of the old Florentine trattorias.

Borgo SS. Apostoli, 66 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.2658156 www.leantichecarrozze.it

Open daily 11.00-23.00

Cathedral & Uffizi > 39

trattoria la carabaccia sabatini

capriccio

orvm ostaria dei centopoveri

parione

Trattoria La Carabaccia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Capriccio at Hotel Montebello Splendid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 ORVM restaurant & bar at The Westin Excelsior. . . . . . . . . . 42 Sabatini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Ostaria dei Centopoveri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Parione. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 40 > Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella “Feed him ye must, whose food fills you.

And that this pleasure is like raine, Not sent ye for to drowne your paine, But for to make it spring againe” Robert Herrick “This is every cook’s opinion No savory dish without an onion, But lest your kissing should be spoiled Your onions must be fully boiled” Jonathan Swift Santa Maria Novella > 41

Trattoria La Carabaccia Via Palazzuolo, 190r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.214782 Fax +39 055.213203 www.trattorialacarabaccia.com

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.00-15.00 & 19.00-23.00

42 > Santa Maria Novella

Trattoria La Carabaccia proposes the best of Tuscan cuisine in a typically Florentine environment in the area between Santa Maria Novella and Porta a Prato. The restaurant takes its name from the boats, shaped like seashells, that were once used to ferry salt and sand across the Arno.

This name however was also given to a special soup, based on onions, the forefather of the French version, imported

by Catherine de’ Medici a classic dish served in this charming restaurant.

The menu ranges from appetizers of canapes and cold cuts, to first courses based on fresh pasta or hearty soups, while entrees include various grilled meats.

Most of the dishes are meat based but there is also fish, with such delicacies as the Spaghetti with genuine clams and fish eggs or the Mediterranean Tuna steak in sesame crust that reveal the delights of the fresh fish from the Tuscan coast. Among the first courses don’t forget to try the risotto wujt stewed leeks and champagne in a Parmigiano crust. The meals are all accompanied by top quality wines and home made desserts.

Summer dining at the Carabaccia is particularly pleasant thanks to the delightful outside terrace giving onto the street.

Capriccio Restaurant Capriccio is hosted inside the wonderful Hotel Montebello Splendid, one of the most prestigious hotels in Florence, situated in an elegant historic palace in the city centre. Here its guests can find all the good taste and fascination of Florence, combined with total and absolute comfort.

The Capriccio restaurant includes internal dining rooms that extend to the luminous veranda and part of the attractive garden where, in fine weather, guests can dine by candlelight or in one of the intimate rooms available for luncheons and private dinners.

The richness and variety of the menus, constantly updated according to the season and based on a Tuscan and creative cuisine, perfectly match the elegant environment and the excellent services typical of Grand Hotel traditions.

Capriccio’s welcome or tasting menu, created by the able hands of Chef Leonardo Ingraudo, is offered to all guests who want to enjoy the taste and flavours of the Italian cuisine at a special all-inclusive price and is definitely not to be missed. Other special menus cater for clients preferring lighter or vegetarian meals or, alternatively, traditional local dishes can be cooked on request. Naturally a wide range of wines are available.

Ristorante Capriccio at Hotel Montebello Splendid Via Garibaldi,14 50123 Florence Tel. 055.27471 Fax 055.2747700 www.montebellosplendid. com

Open daily for lunch and dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30

Santa Maria Novella > 43

ORVM restaurant & bar ORVM at The Westin Excelsior Piazza Ognissanti, 3 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.27152785

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.30-15.00 & 19.30-22.30

44 > Santa Maria Novella

The Westin Excelsior Florence is an undisputed masterpiece in its own right: a stunning Renaissance palace on the banks of the river Arno, in the heart of a city that has witnessed centuries of noble history.

Tasteful décor and fine flavor are the twin concepts behind ORVM, the new restaurant and bar at The Westin Excelsior Florence. Painstakingly refurbished to showcase the extraordinary quality of Traditional Florentine craftsmanship, ‘Twenties elegance is beautifully recreated in the exquisite woodwork, mirrors and black and white marble floor. For a lunch or a dinner the menu conceived by Executive Chef Giuseppe Dalla Rosa offers dishes of the Mediterranean gastronomic tradition, made with fresh seasonal products, accompanied by Tuscan wines and by the best choice of international ones, all to confirm once again the exclusive feature of this restaurant. ORVM restaurant also offers many menu formulas such as the Express Lunch, a Wellness menu (from breakfast to dinner, including a large assortment of organic and healthy food), or a daily set suggestion of courses.

For those loving to socialize, from 19.00 to 21.00, ORVM proposes Unwind, a Westin ritual that accompanies you from day to night. A wide cocktail menu expertly mixed

by Head Barman Mario d’Onghia, is able to satisfy classic tastes and new combinations, for guests who enjoy food and drinks surrounded by background live music.

Sabatini Situated in the ancient heart of Florence between Piazza Duomo and Santa Maria Novella, Sabatini has been open as a restaurant since 1924; now eighty-five years old, it is one of the great restaurants in Italy, where the staff welcoming its clients speaks several languages, including Japanese.

The name of “Sabatini” is known throughout Florence as a really good restaurant, enhanced by an elegant familiarity, and it has become a real rite to dine here. A complete international cuisine is available with a variegated menu of fish and meat, though naturally the Tuscan traditions are honoured with the world famous steak (always cooked on a charcoal grill). Another distinctive element of the venue is its deep interest in the world of wine; the wine list in fact boasts a choice of five hundred labels. It is somewhat like a noble gastronomic club that, for almost a century, has hosted all the Florentines that count, as well as welcoming many exacting foreign customers who have already heard of “Sabatini” at home, long before coming to Italy.

Nothing is improvised, nothing is artificially built to astonish, what you breath inside Sabatini is the force of the tradition the only thing that matter, the only idea that is meant to persist in time!

Carlo and Claudio, who have contributed towards the progress of this great restaurant over the years, are now in charge of the New Management. They are certainly not lacking in courtesy and a ready smile after such a long time because their dreams have at last come true.

Via Panzani, 9a 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.282802 Fax +39 055.210293 www.ristorantesabatini.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.30-14.00 & 19.30-22.30 Closed on Mondays

Santa Maria Novella > 45

Ostaria dei Centopoveri Via del Palazzuolo, 31r corner with Via del Porcellana, 41r 50123 Florence Tel. +39 055.218846 www.centopoveri.it

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.00-15.00 & 19.00-24.00

46 > Santa Maria Novella

Ostaria dei Centopoveri is located in the historic centre of Florence, in via del Palazzuolo just steps away from Santa Maria Novella, and very near to all the other major buildings in town. Take a romantic walk through the ancient streets of the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood to discover this delicious restaurant and pizzeria. Its name is very old and comes from time when the nobility offered one hundred poor people a free meal on the last day of Carnival at the Church of San Francesco that once stood in this same street. Today the Ostaria’s menu is typically Tuscan, like the interior with its terracotta floors and wood-panelled ceilings, and the white ceramic tiles covering the counter. It is just like walking into a warmly hospitable house in the country. The customers are decidedly international with ribollita and pappa al pomodoro topping the menu, together with ricotta and spinach tortelli with Boletus mushrooms, sliced or grilled steaks, all of the very best quality, or, alternatively, really fresh fish. Since 2008 the Restaurant has doubled itself adding a new area for Pizzeria, a most modern environment where dark wooden panels elegantly counteract to the white and orange elements of the room: from the chairs designed by Philippe Stark to the plain minimal curtains and the informal table clothes and coloured glasses. The wine list Regional and Italian wines.

Parione Ristorante Parione is situated in a 14th century palace in one of the oldest and most important streets in the city in the heart of the historical centre of Florence only a short way away from the Ponte Vecchio. The restaurant stretches over two welcoming rooms with an intimate and elegant atmosphere and la Cantinetta, a small but well-stocked cellar, here you can find the most celebrated Italian and international labels, the cellar houses a collection of wines that are the pride of the restaurant. Access is possible from two well-known streets of Florence: via del Parione and Via della Vigna Nuova. Its large windows as well as the bright colours of the pictures hanged on the walls blend in perfectly with the palace’s terracotta vaults, capitals and Tuscan cotto floors. The large dining room overlooks the big painting where some of the most important people who made the resstaurant famous are portraid, among them “il Bambino� who gave name to the old restaurant where now Parione is set. Giovanni Tarantino, the chef, with his skilled staff, prepares the classical dishes of the Tuscan cuisine adding the unique touch of imagination that makes this restaurant a real gastronomic atelier. Without ever forgetting the everpresent Tuscan influence, the Chef passionately interprets every single dish by quick-cooking the various ingredients and making use of more delicate flavours as prescribed by the rules of the modern cuisine.

Via del Parione, 74-76r Via della Vigna Nuova, 17 50123 Florence Tel. & Fax +39 055.214005 www.parione.net

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.30-15.00 & 19.00-23.30

Santa Maria Novella > 47

FLET

nove

trattoria mamma gina trattoria celestino

trattoria vittoria

onice

trattoria 4 leoni maracanĂ grill

Onice Lounge & Restaurant at Villa La Vedetta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Trattoria 4 Leoni. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Trattoria Celestino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Trattoria Mamma Gina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Flet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Nove Restaurant & Wine bar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 MaracanĂ Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Trattoria Vittoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 48 > Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

PonteVecchio Oltrarno

&

“The food of thy soul is light and space; feed it then on light and space.

But the food of thy body is champagne and oysters; feed it then on champagne and oysters; and so shall it merit a joyful resurrection, if there is any to be.”

Herman Melville “I will not eat oysters.

I want my food dead - not sick, not wounded - dead” Woody Allen Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno > 49

Onice Lounge & Restaurant Onice Lounge & Restaurant at Relais & Chateaux Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78 50125 Florence Tel +39 055.681631 Fax +39 055.6582544 www.villalavedettahotel.com Executive Chef Stefano Gaetano Santo

Open for lunch & dinner 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-23.00 Closed on Wednesdays

The Onice Lounge Restaurant at Relais & Chateaux Villa la Vedetta near Piazzale Michelangelo, only a short way away from the Ponte Vecchio, is a refined Gourmet restaurant offering an exclusive and sophisticated atmosphere. The Lounge bar is dominated by the honey-coloured onyx counter and surrounded by low curving divans and small leather-covered poufs. A wide arch leads into the restaurant dining room with its vaulted ceiling and two huge windows overlooking the garden and the pool. Small glass and crocodile-skin tables, padded chairs and divans, upholstered in silver grey and cherry red, welcome the guests. The uncontested protagonist is the restaurant’s creative Cuisine that has won the interest and the favour of authoritative gastronomic critics along with flattering reviews from some of the greatest masters of refined cooking.

Innovative yet traditional, the menu is daring, combining a clever interpretation of local recipes and exotic spices: the Chef skilfully blends techniques and flavours from different traditions and mixes together sweet and salt savours. Don’t miss the dishes like the variations and trilogies exquisite and superb specialties enhancing Onice’s haute cuisine.

50 > Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

Trattoria 4 Leoni A corner of ancient Florence can be found between the Ponte Vecchio and the Pitti Palace that is full of craft workshops and beloved by artists and intellectuals. The Trattoria 4 Leoni, situated in Piazza della Passera, offers the sort of welcome that we would expect to find in the homes of old friends. The furnishings are in the typical Tuscan traditions, plain yet refined, with straw-bottomed chairs and marble-topped tables. Mine host Stefano Di Puccio is held in high esteem in the city for his sporting history as a player in the“Historic Florentine Football Matches”, but also for the genuine hospitality that can be found in his restaurant and for quality of his cooking. Platters in the true Tuscan tradition emerge from the kitchen, from the mythical Huge Fry-Up (fried chicken, rabbit and vegetables) and the steaks, always excellent, to the famous Impruneta Peposo (peppery stew) or the delicious 4 Leoni Salad; all of them dishes for gourmets!

We must not forget to mention the desserts, all home-made, like the pear and chocolate cake, the apple tart or the cheese cake; or else there are the popular Prato Cantuccini (almond biscuits) to dip in the Holy Wine. The wines are all of excellent quality and can also be ordered by the glass. Outside dining under a white marquee and surrounded by pots of sweet-melling bay trees is possible in the summer months. The quality of the cooking, the care taken over details and service, together with the simple and genuine atmosphere, make the 4 Leoni a symbolic nightspot for all the Florentines and ... Piazza della Passera in the Spring is a really wonderful sight.

Piazza della Passera 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.218562 Fax +39 055.2678870 www.4leoni.com

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.00-24.00

Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno > 51

Trattoria Celestino Piazza Santa Felicita, 4r 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.2396574 Fax +39 055.292185 www.ristorantecelestino.it

Open daily 12.00-23.00 during the summer, 12-15 & 19-23 & closed on Sundays during the winter

Once an ancient tavern and now an elegant and understated restaurant, Celestino boasts a long tradition in the history of Tuscan cooking that dates back to 1872. It is situated inside the Tower of the Ubriachi in Piazzetta Santa Felicita, one of the most suggestive parts of Florence and about 30 metres from the Ponte Vecchio in the direction of Palazzo Pitti. The restaurant overlooks the Church of Santa Felicita, which houses several works, among them the Deposition, by the great artist Pontormo. The current management, in vogue now for years, continues the tradition of the typical Tuscan cuisine, and the restaurant is ideal for enjoying an excellent ribollita (vegetable bread soup) or a juicy steak of Chianina beef accompanied by a Chianti Classico selected from the excellent cellar. The wide selection of prestigious wines includes some of the best Italian labels. The pleasant and relaxing candlelit environment is enhanced during the summer months by a small but delightful outdoor eating space in the historic square. Bruno, the owner, along with his staff, will be delighted to welcome you every day and help you discover the flavour of simple and genuine foods and the joys of the table. Restaurant Celestino is recommended by a great many accredited guide books and magazines and is on the Cravattino d’Oro circuit, associated with A.M.I.R.A. Celestino moreover is to offer its customers a free and most enjoyable shuttle service, so that you will find yourselves sitting at the table in no time. You will then be taken back to wherever you want to go in a horsedrawn gig.

52 > Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

Trattoria Mamma Gina One of Florence’s best-loved typical trattorias, Mamma Gina is situated in a 15th century palace with vaulted ceilings and furnished in an elegant yet rustic style.

The restaurant was established in the early Fifties when Signora Gina started cooking meals for the workmen dredging sand from the Arno for use in the many building sites involved in repairing the damage caused by the bombing in World War II. Now run by Massimo Brilli, Mamma Gina still offers traditional-style cooking based on the genuine, simple and delicious dishes of times past. Its menus include a wide assortment of traditional soups, typical hors d’oeuvres, pasta and mouthwatering grilled specialities. The trattoria’s grilled fillet of steak for lovers of really good meat is quite unforgettable and the huge wine cellar includes classical Chianti and a wide selection of Tuscan wines, as well as all the best Italian and international wines.

The pleasant environment and excellent service have made it popular with famous personalities from the Italian and international political, cultural and theatrical scene while the friendly and helpful staff create an atmosphere that is a perfect demonstration of the finest hospitality Florence can offer.

Borgo San Jacopo, 37r 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.2396009 Fax +39 055.213908 www.mammagina.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-22.30 Closed on Sundays

Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno > 53

Flet Piazza dei Nerli, 2/4r 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.2654142

Open daily 10.00-01.00 Mondays 10.00-17.00 Sundays 17.00-01.00 Monday & Sunday opening hours may vary during the summer

Flet is situated in Piazza dei Nerli, just a short way away from Piazza del Carmine, in the heart of San Frediano, the historic Florentine quarter that is the centre of the city’s nightlife. The restaurant features and is pervaded by a pronounced hi-tech design: the unusual and fascinating dark colours used for the walls and furnishings, the contrast between the modern open-living metal structure, from the counter, where the aperitifs are served, to the shelves that display the bottles, the placing of the tables and the restored vintage style chairs, combine to make Flet popular and welcoming, in other words, a sophisticated venue that is not at all cold.

Flet is a wine bar with a kitchen and open from morning to late at night, so that it is possible dine on original express first courses that are changed daily according to the products in season, always fresh, ranging from carpaccios and giant salads to stuffed focacce (flat bread). Supper+aperitif is open from 7.30pm to 9.30pm with a rich counter buffet and excellent cocktail drinks, while the evening continues until 1am with the American bar and with hamburgers and imaginative express focacce, for those who are hungry.

Tables have been set up on a covered platform outside for people who want to sit outdoors and sip a glass of wine or dine al fresco in the summer.

54 > Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

Nove Restaurant & Wine bar Ristorante Nove is a charming oasis in the heart of the old city centre, just a short way along the riverbank from the Ponte Vecchio. An environment in ethnic taste, furnished with soft lines with occasional antique and art deco elements by local craftsmen. Guests can sit on comfortable crescent-shaped divans at the table, while the elegant internal room is framed with damask-lined alcoves and paintings by some of the greatest international artists. The outside terrace overlooking the Arno is a refined winter garden that is perfect for al fresco summer dining in an intimate and romantic atmosphere whose level of comfort and privacy is unique among the city venues.

At Nove guests can enjoy all the typical flavours of Florentine cooking, lovingly contaminated in fusion style, at the table.

In the kitchen Paolo Secci coordinates a staff of 6 Italian and Japanese cooks who prepare starters such as salmon and sea bass Sashimi and tuna tartar. The wide choice of first courses is inspired by the Tuscan cuisine and served with handmade pasta. The second courses include a wide range of specialities based on fish, which is always fresh and selected according to the fishing season. Meat lovers can enjoy the delicious steaks that are Nove’s highlights, though many other interesting platters can be found on the menu that make use of various kinds of selected meat, always cooked in a refined way and accompanied by mouth-watering sauces.

The menu includes a wide choice of desserts, which are all prepared in the kitchen... don’t miss the delicious ice cream mousses. A careful selection of wines and champagnes completes any high level culinary experience in this eclectic venue, which becomes an elegant place to meet in the evening for aperitifs and cocktails, served at the bar until 2 am.

Piazza degli Scarlatti, 1r (Lungarno Guicciardini) 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.2302756 www.ristorantenove.it

open daily for dinner 19.00-02.00

Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno > 55

Maracanà Grill Borgo Tegolaio, 17r 50125 Florence Tel. +39 055.2382290 www.maracanagrill.com

Open for lunch & dinner lunch buffet 12.00-15.00 dinner19.00-22.30 & Home delivery service Closed on Sundays

Located only a few steps from Piazza Santo Spirito, in the heart of Florence, is a Brazilian churrascaria known as the Maracanà Grill. Subsiding in a popular neighborhood, rich in history, this restaurant is a delectable spot. The colors and the atmosphere resemble that of the most typical Inns of Salvador de Bahia and Rio de Janiero. The cuisine and service of Maracanà Grill derives precisely from the ancient traditions of Carioca, where the cooks and waiters work as a team to better the experience for the diner. To start off, the menu offers a rich buffet comprised of hot and cold starters as well as salad. Besides the buffet you can taste traditional Brazilian dishes such as Risoles, Cochina de pollo, Bolinha de arroz, Pao de queijo, Salada de Grao de Bico, salada mista, Salpicao, Pan di bolignas and many more. Moving on to a signature dish at the Maracanà Grill, the churrasco, this plate consists of a selection of more than 6 meats roasted on the grill and served at the table directly by spit. The meats include chicken, sausage, rosticciane, several types of picanha beef and grilled pineapple, all accompanied by white Basmati rice, with Brazilian black beans and salad. Among these dishes, there are several others that stand out such as the “Prawns of Bobo with white rice” the “Moqueca di Pesce con Farofa di Dende e riso”, “Strogonoffe chicken with potatoes and white rice”, and other specialities with various meats and fish, traditional to cuisine Brazilian. You can also choose to pay a fixed price of 26 euros, which includes a drink, a great alternative to sample the wide variety of authentic Brazilian dishes that the Maracanà Grill has to offer.

56 > Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno

Trattoria Vittoria This recently restyled restaurant has always been famous for its fish in a city that for many years was lacking in good restaurants of this type. Francesco Baglioni and Giovanni Bartolini have catering in their blood and the cuisine they propose is based on perfectly cooked and beautifully prepared classical fish dishes. Great care is taken to ensure that all the fish is really fresh and the menu also offers less classical but more creative platters as well.

Starters can range from a rich mixed seafood dish, truffle flavoured shrimps, a loaf of fried shrimps and sea bass capriccio with fresh basil and tomato, to raw scampi with citrus fruits.

Some of the delicious first courses include lobster risotto, sea food soup and macaroni in scampi and shrimp sauce.

The choice of second courses offers, among others, a seafood stew, fresh stewed gurnard and a mixed platter of shellfish Catalan style. The restaurant naturally offers an excellent choice of white wines.

Via della Fonderia, 52r 50142 Florence Tel. +39 055.225657 Fax +39 055.2286345 www.trattoriavittoria ristorantepesce.com info@trattoriavittoria ristorantepesce.com

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.30-22.30 Closed on Mondays & for lunch on Wednesdays

Ponte Vecchio & Oltrarno > 57

zibibbo

vinandro

india

villa san michele la terrazza

la capponcina

trattoria di’ sor paolo centanni trattoria omero

il verrocchio

Il Verrocchio at Villa La Massa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Villa San Michele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 La Terrazza at Il Salviatino. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Trattoria Omero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Centanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Zibibbo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 La Capponcina di Settignano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Trattoria di’ Sor Paolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Vinandro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 India. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 58 > Outside the city walls

Just outside the city walls “Come, thou monarch of the vine, Plumpy Bacchus with pink eyne!”

William Shakespeare “Bacchus, that first from out the purple grape Crush’d the sweet poison of misused wine” John Milton “Wine is bottled poetry” Robert Louis Stevenson Outside the city walls > 59

Il Verrocchio - Villa La Massa Il Verrocchio at Villa La Massa Via della Massa 24 50012 Candeli Bagno a Ripoli - Florence Tel. +39 055.62611 Fax +39 055.633102 www.villalamassa.it

Open for lunch & dinner from March 24th to November 5th 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-22.00

60 > Outside the city walls

The “Il Verrocchio” restaurant is situated in the splendid 16th century Villa La Massa in the midst of the beautiful countryside surrounding Florence. Here it is possible to dine by candle-light in true Medici style on the wonderful terrace overlooking the Arno and enjoy the refined specialties of the Chef Andrea Quagliarella who, making use of the finest local products, serves exclusive dishes like limescented risotto with scampi tails, Chianti and black pepper flavoured fillet of Cinta (Belted Pork), zucchini flowers stuffed with fresh cheese, Taleggio sauce and black truffle, fillets of sole with asparagus in saffron sauce, fresh Panzanella salad with spelt, broad beans with slivers of Sienese sheep’s cheese, hot chocolate tartlet with coffee ice cream and peach sauce.

The exclusive cellar can be compared to none and is situated below the restaurant with the walls lapped by the waters of the Arno. A real treasury that contains a selection of at least 300 of the best Tuscan and Italian Crù wines that can also be tasted in the little room next to the cellar, a unique atmosphere for private dinners served by a professional staff.

Villa San Michele Villa San Michele must be one of the most romantic places in the world. This former monastery, nestled on a hilltop surrounded by trees and terraced gardens, overlooks the city of Florence below.

The XVI century Loggia Restaurant and the bars boast some of the most spectacular views in Europe, overlooking Florence and the Arno Valley. The menu is created using seasonal products from the region and emphasis is placed on the typical Tuscan cuisine.

Home-made pasta, mushrooms and meat are house specialities. In late spring and summer The Loggia (Terrace) is the perfect place for a relaxing lunch or dinner in the warm sunshine while in early spring and autumn the magnificent inside rooms Chiostro (Cloister) and Cenacolo provide an historic location to enjoy sumptuous dishes.

For private banquets the Ristorante Antico (Antique Restaurant) and the Cenacolo rooms provide an intimate and stunning setting.

The Cooking School offers courses for adults and children, focused on Tuscan cuisine or seasonal produce.

Hotel Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 50014 Fiesole - Florence Tel. +39 055.5678200 Fax +39 055.5678250 www.villasanmichele.com

Open daily for lunch & dinner 13.00-14.45 & 19.30-21.45

Outside the city walls > 61

La Terrazza Restaurant & Lounge Bar at Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21 50137 Florence Tel. +39 055.9041111 www.salviatino.com

La Terrazza Open daily 7.00-23.00 Lounge Bar with background music Open daily 18.00-01.00

62 > Outside the city walls

Il Salviatino is situated inside one of the most beautiful Renaissance villa in the terrirory of Florence and is one of the most luxurious and fascinating hotels in Italy today.

This ancient 15th century palace, which once belonged to the Florentine aristocracy, lies in the hills of Fiesole, near Florence, and had now, after a careful and meticulous renovation, been transformed into a magnificent villa, making it an ideal place to relax.

Il Salviatino hotel is pleased to present its “La Terrazza” restaurant. “La Terrazza”, a secluded, peaceful venue, can be found near the Il Salviatino greenhouses and gives onto a wonderful view over the Tuscan hills.

In a region that is renowned for its good food, the concept behind the “La Terrazza” restaurant is that of offering a gastronomic experience in a very special place that blends the glamour of bygone days with a fresh, modern and relaxed approach, it is the place to go above Florence.

Carmine Calò, the executive chef, takes his inspiration from a traditional revisited cuisine and proposes many modern and light dishes. His philosophy in the kitchen tends towards simplicity and his preparations aim to enhance the flavour of each ingredient.

We are delighted to invite you to dine at “La Terrazza”, a casual-chic restaurant, at any time of day, as it is open from 7 in the morning to midnight. Come and discover your luxury residence in the Florentine hills.

Trattoria Omero Trattoria Omero is one of the historic sites in Florentine catering. Its ideal position on the hill only five minutes from the city centre and its friendly and peaceful environment make it a meeting point for personalities of culture and the cinema. Its success is due to the quality of the cooking that offers traditional Tuscan dishes prepared with seasonal ingredients and cooked with wisdom and passion.

The two large dining rooms are furnished in a traditional but elegant fashion with a large picture window over Florence that gives the restaurant a very special light... and on summer evenings it is possible to dine on the splendid terrace and enjoy an enchanting view over the hills.

Trattoria Omero is a unique opportunity to enjoy moments of true pleasure at the table and enjoy excellently cooked but simple dishes. The menu follows the rhythm of the seasons, while the dishes are prepared using selected fresh produce of top quality and include fresh home made pasta, pappardelle with hare ragout, grilled meats, fried platters, Florentine steaks, specialities based on game, desserts, which are always home made, and many other delicacies. The Cantina houses over 300 selected wines: classic Italian and international wines and all the fines Tuscan labels. The service is attentive, friendly and never intrusive. Time seems to have stood still at Omero’s as, although the restaurant has stood here for decades, it still manages to keep its reputation and perhaps this is why its customers get attached to it and come back again and again, because they know they will always find original flavours and simplicity.

Via Pian dei Giullari 47 Arcetri - Florence Tel +39.055.220053 Fax +39.055.2336183 www.ristoranteomero.it

Open for lunch and dinner Gastronomy shop Open 19.00-23.00 Closed on Tuesdays

Outside the city walls > 63

Centanni Residence Centanni Via di Centanni, 8 50012 Bagno a Ripoli - Florence Tel. +39 055.630122 Fax +39 055.6510445 www.residence-centanni.it

Open for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19.30-22.30 Closed for lunch on Mondays & for dinner on Sundays

64 > Outside the city walls

Dining out of town takes on a completely new meaning at the Restaurant Centanni. Situated in a changing landscape dotted with sunflowers, olive groves and vineyards, Restaurant and Residence Centanni lie close to Florence. Perfect hosts, the Bianchi and Burgassi families await their guests in these splendid surroundings and propose exquisite menus matched with perfect wines.

Great care is given to product quality: free-range chickens and veal come from local farms, while rabbits are raised on natural feed. The meat is thus tasty and firm, keeping its flavour and texture after cooking, and vegetables come fresh from the garden. Guests can linger over their typical Tuscan meal in the shady garden, far from the bustle of the city or, in winter, dine in the large country-style veranda room overlooking the Tuscan hills.

The refined yet homely atmosphere can be felt as soon as you step inside the door and diners can choose from three types of menu: quick and light lunches, meals of medium quantity, plus more expensive menus based on several courses. The wine list offers a selection of over 400 brands of wines, making this venue, with its special talent for warm and welcoming hospitality, one of the best places to enjoy dishes made with 40 years experience.

Centanni also offers its clients a shuttle service to and from the city centre.

Zibibbo Zibibbo never loses its feminine touch. Benedetta Vitali who has now been running this small restaurant in the outskirts of the city enjoys working with women. You will therefore find women to welcome you, see to the cooking and the shopping and see to the tables and choose the tablecloths, glasses and flowers. Although the Zibibbo Restaurant is only ten minutes from the centre of Florence, it is already right in the middle of the countryside as it is situated in the Careggi area on one of the first hills overlooking the city. It boasts an unmistakable Mediterranean type of environment, with dark red wooden flooring and large round tables set well apart from each other so as to allow its clients to feel at ease. The cuisine, personally prepared

by Benedetta Vitali, chef and the heart and soul of Zibibbo, is simple and intense, based on tradition and created with wisdom, while full of flavour and fragrant combinations.

She proposes some really very delicate dishes. “The tasting menu� is well worth trying at 35.00 euro per person and allows you to sample some of the most representative dishes of the Zibibbo cuisine. The starters are quite exceptional, many of them vegetarian, while the desserts can satisfy even the most exacting palates. The wine list is extensive and regularly updated.

Via di Terzollina 3/r 50139 Florence Tel +39 055.433383 Fax +39 055.4289070 www.trattoriazibibbo.it

Open for lunch and dinner 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-23.00 Closed on Saturdays & Sundays, From October to April Open also for Brunch on Saturdays & dinner on Sundays

Outside the city walls > 65

La Capponcina di Settignano Via San Romano 15/17r Settignano - Florence Tel +39 055.697037 Fax +39 055.6549118 www.capponcina.com

Open daily for dinner 19.30-24.30 & for lunch on Sundays & on request during the summer, Closed on Mondays in the winter

66 > Outside the city walls

La Capponcina di Settignano restaurant is also a wonderful terrace that offers breathtaking views over Florence. A historic but recently renovated restaurant, it is perfect for dining outside in the fresh open air … while still being practically in town! The summer terrace, which is now even more attractive, hides corners full of charm like the “Vicolo degli Innamorati” (Lovers’ Lane) or the “Vicolo la Capponcina” (La Capponcina Lane). Do not forget that our restaurant is perfect for business dinners and private events, ceremonies of any kind and special afternoon snack or dinner combinations. We also have a large and attractive car park and can organise and personalize birthday parties.

The cuisine,which pays particular attention to the freshness and seasonality of the products, serves both original and updated dishes, as well as traditional platters, where great care given to the raw materials; as a matter of fact we change several dishes on the menu every week so as never to bore you! Do not miss our tray of local cold cuts and cheese that are typical of the territory. Our first courses are always delicious, with almost all the pasta homemade. The savoury second courses are made with quality meat and extremely fresh fish, while our flavoursome pizzas are all cooked in the wood oven. We also offer a vegetarian menu ….in order to satisfy all our vegetarian customers!

The pearl of the restaurant is its selected wine list, personally chosen by our professional sommelier, with excellent wine at accessible prices. New wine suggestions are offered every evening and can also be served by the glass.

Trattoria di’ Sor Paolo Situated in the midst of the vineyards and olive groves on the borders of the Chianti, Sor Paolo is the perfect place to dine for those looking for the flavours and atmosphere of the past.Very popular among the Florentines, the name alone is a guarantee of genuine Tuscan cooking prepared by the expert hands of the Ciattini family. The rustic country atmosphere extends throughout the small but characteristic rooms that compose the interior of this old farmhouse and then outside under the loggia, whose tables are always in great request in summer. A visit to the cellars only confirms the restaurant’s genuinity. The only problem here is what unforgettable delicacies to choose... hot chicken liver or tomato, black cabbage or bean croutons, polenta with wild boar sauce, Colonnata lard, Mugello hams or home-made vegetable preserves in oil. Starters are followed by the traditional local soups, ravioli or strozzapreti, pappardelle (ribbon pasta) and other pastas with sauces of wild boar or Boletus mushrooms, and this is not all. Meat courses include anything from boiled meat to stews, mixed fries, grilled meats, especially steaks, chicken, pigeon. Simple well-cooked country food, completed by genuine ingredients, like the local oil, and matched by excellent wines. Not to be missed are the Sor Paolo prunes or the almond biscuits to dunk in Vin Santo.

Boasting only 9 bedrooms, the recently opened Hotel di’ Sor Paolo (4 star) offers a romantic atmosphere in a tiny corner of Paradise, where wine therapy baths in the bedrooms as well as outside are just a taste of the special services it offers.

Via Cassia per Firenze, 40 50026 San Casciano Val di Pesa Florence Tel. +39 055.828402 Mob. 335.5795454 Hotel. +39 055.8294665. www.trattoriadisorpaolo.it

Open daily for lunch & dinner 12.00-14.30 & 19-22.30 Closed on Mondays during the winter

Outside the city walls > 67

Vinandro Piazza Mino, 33 50014 Fiesole - Florence Tel. +39 055.59121 www.vinandrofiesole.com

Open daily 12.00-24.00 Lunch 12.00-14.30 Saturdays & Sundays 12.00-15.00 Dinner 19.00-22.30

68 > Outside the city walls

In the Tuscan dialect “Vinandro” once meant “going from hostelry to hostelry to drink wine” (the Italian version of pubcrawling). The first of these places, where people could gather together to drink wine in a sociable and friendly atmosphere, opened in Tuscany in 1079.

Vinandro is unique in Florence because everyone sits down together at one huge table and therefore, after a glass or two of good wine, they inevitably make friends with their tablemates. The decor adds to the warm, atmosphere thanks to the use of ancient wood and objects like old-fashioned scales and typical farm implements. The menu is highly selective and prepared with local products of quality that vary according to the time of year. The excellent house wines are poured directly from the barrel and everything compares well in price and quality.

At Vinandro you dine on simple fare, like a plate of sliced salami and cheese, with a glass of wine. Fine wines can also be bought by the bottle here, together with a selection of biological products. The aperitifs are most enjoyable, composed of products under oil and sliced salamis accompanied by various wines by the glass. Afternoon snacks are available for people on trips up to Fiesole and its hills. Prior reservations advised.

Prices E 18/25 without beverages.

Live Music with Mandolin and Folk Orchestra on Wednesday evenings.

India Welcome to India. An India to be eaten and slowly enjoyed that allows the senses to slide and intoxicates the eye with its colours and the decor that ranges from a sari pinned high up on the wall to the finely carved decorations in wood. The many details, furnishings and antiques or typical elements, are all chosen with care and infinite love.

The background music is almost fragrant, like our bread, becoming almost a lament at times and then becoming strong and rhythmic. An aroma of spices and incense coils around the notes, almost as if it can touch them.

Awarded with a hat and the best Indian restaurant in Italy, according to the 1996 Expresso “Guide to Italy”, which gave it 14/20 points, “India” is rather like a gem taken directly from the turban of a Maharaja and positioned on top of the magical hills of Fiesole to dominate Florence from above.

Two cooks in the entrance hall take out crispy and spicy bread from the oven followed by chicken, mutton, vegetables and cheeses in brilliant colours and flavours, all cooked in the typical terracotta Tandoor ovens.

Two other cooks, also Indians, in the other kitchen, carefully and really skillfully prepare dishes from the traditional Mughlai cuisine, which is characterised by thick, though never greasy, sauces and flavoured with a thousand different spices that, when they are successfully mixed together (masala), show the difference between an ordinary cook and the true chef.

Via Gramsci, 43a 50014 Fiesole - Florence Tel. +39 055.599900 www.indiafiesole.it

Open for dinner only 19.30 - 24.00 Closed on Tuesdays

Outside the city walls > 69

Pag Restaurant

Address

Telephone

Closed*

Notes**

16 Enoteca Nazionale Pinchiorri

Via Ghibellina, 87

055.242757

Sundays & Mondays

Open for dinner only

17 Il Palagio

Borgo Pinti, 99

055.2626450

Sundays from November 1st 2011 until May 2012, All January & February

Open for dinner only, Sunday Brunch from October until June

18 Natalino

Borgo degli Albizi, 17r 055.289404

19 Fellini

Via Ghibellina, 134r

055.2478898

20 La Baraonda Fish Restaurant

Via Ghibellina, 67r

055.2260038

21 Boccanegra

Via Ghibellina, 124r

055.2001098

Sundays

22 Trattoria Accadì

Borgo Pinti, 56r

055.2478410

Sundays

23 FrancescoVini

Borgo dei Greci 7r Piazza Peruzzi, 8r

055.218737

Sundays in summer Mondays in winter

26 Buca Lapi

Palazzo Antinori Via del Trebbio, 1r

055.213768

Sundays

27 Il Bargello

Piazza della Signoria, 4r 055.214071

Mondays

28 Cantinetta Antinori

Piazza Antinori, 3

055.292234

Saturdays & Sundays

29 H&B Hostaria Bibendum

Via dei Pescioni, 2

055.26651

30 Trattoria Antico Fattore Via Lambertesca, 1r

055.288975

31 Obikà

055.2773526

Via Tornabuoni 16

Mondays Open for dinner only

Closed for lunch on Mondays

Open for dinner only

Sundays

32 Trattoria Coco Lezzone Via del Parioncino, 26r

055.287178

Sundays

Closed for dinner on Tuesdays

33 dei Frescobaldi Via de’ Ristorante & Wine Bar Magazzini,2-4r

055.284724

Sundays

Closed for lunch on Mondays & 3 weeks in August

34 Cantinetta dei Verrazzano

Via dei Tavolini, 18r

055.268590

Sundays

35 Ora d’Aria

Via dei Georgofili, 11r

055.2001699

Sundays

36 The Clubhouse

Via de’ Ginori 6r

055.211427

37 Le Antiche Carrozze

Borgo SS. Apostoli, 66 055.2658156

40 Trattoria La Carabaccia Via Palazzuolo, 190r

055.214782

41 Capriccio

055.27471

Via Garibaldi,14

42 ORVM restaurant & bar Piazza Ognissanti, 3

055.27152785

43 Sabatini

055.282802

Via Panzani, 9a

Mondays

Closed for lunch on Mondays

Pag Restaurant

Address

Telephone

Closed*

Notes**

44 Ostaria dei Centopoveri Via del Palazzuolo, 31r 055.218846 Via del Porcellana, 41r 45 Parione

Via del Parione, 74-76r Via Vigna Nuova, 17r

48 Onice Lounge & Restaurant

V.le Michelangiolo, 78 055.681631

49 Trattoria 4 Leoni

Piazza della Passera

50 Trattoria Celestino

Piazza Santa Felicita, 4r 055.2396574

055.214005 Wednesdays

055.218562 Closed on Sundays during the winter

51 Trattoria Mamma Gina Borgo San Jacopo, 37r 055.2396009

Sundays

52 Flet

Piazza dei Nerli, 2/4r 055.2654142

10.00-01.00

53 Nove Restaurant & Wine Bar

Piazza degli Scarlatti, 1r

055.2302756

54 MaracanĂ Grill

Borgo Tegolaio, 17r

055.2382290

55 Trattoria Vittoria

Via della Fonderia, 52r 055.225657

58 Il Verrochio Villa La Massa

Via della Massa, 24 Candeli Bagno a Ripoli

59 Villa San Michele

Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole 055.5678200

60 La Terrazza at Il Salviatino

Via del Salviatino, 21 055.9041111

61 Trattoria Omero

Via Pian dei Giullari, 47 Arcetri

055.220053

62 Centanni

Via di Centanni, 8 Bagno a Ripoli

055.630122

63 Zibibbo

Via di Terzollina 3r

055.433383

64 La Capponcina di Settignano

Mondays 10.00-17.00 Sundays 17.00-01.00 Open for dinner only

Sundays Mondays

055.62611

Closed for lunch on Wednesdays Open for lunch & dinner from March 24th to November 5th

Tuesdays

Gastronomy shop Open 19.00-23.00 Closed for lunch on Mondays & for dinner on Sundays

Saturdays & Sundays

Brunch on Saturdays & dinner on Sundays From October to April

Via San Romano 15/17r 055.697037 Settignano

Mondays during the winter

Open for dinner only & for lunch on Sundays

65 Trattoria di’ Sor Paolo Via Cassia 055.828402 per Firenze, 40 S.Casciano Val di Pesa

Mondays during the winter

66 Vinandro

Piazza Mino, 33 Fiesole

055.59121

67 India

Via Gramsci, 43a Fiesole

055.599900

Tuesdays

Open for dinner only

*Always open unless specified; **Open for lunch and dinner unless specified in notes

40 41 43 44

28 26

31 29

42 55

45

32

37

52 53

49

51 50

54

65

72

63

59 66 67

17 63 36 60

22

29 18

34

19 21

30 27

16

33

20

35

23

58 48 61

62

73

Credits

Translation Consultant Graphic Design Project Management

Susan Glasspool Claudia Manzoni Pietro Salvadori Manrico Romano

Edition Mega Review Srl Via Vasco De Gama, 65 50127 Firenze

www.megareview.it

Printed in May 2011 at Nova Arti Grafiche, Signa - Firenze The Editor can be contacted for eventual copyright issues that we have not been able to trace