Venezia
magazine
a n n o 1 , n u m ero 3 se tte m b re – ottob re 2 0 1 3
e ve n ti m o s tre i ti n e ra ri
Venetian festivals
Historical regatta Exhibitions in Venice
Collectings alla Ca' d'Oro Music venues
Viva Verdi
Events
70. mostra internazionale d'arte cinematografica l a B i e n n a l e d i Ve n e zi a
Off course: the other Venice
L From Lido to Pellestrina
e opere di due straordinari collezionisti, nonno e nipote, per la prima volta riunite alla Ca’ d’Oro, la dimora che il primo, il barone Giorgio Franchetti, scelse per contenere i suoi tesori poi messi a disposizione di tutti. Accanto alle raccolte antiche del nonno, per la durata della mostra viene esposta la non meno rara collezione di Giorgio jr che docu menta, in modo esemplare, il nuovo dell’arte italiana del secondo dopoguerra. Diversissime le loro collezioni di opere d’arte, diversissimo del resto era anche il momento storico e le condizioni in cui vissero e operarono. Il barone Franchetti sr amava l’arte antica, i maestri minori, le opere rare e non ancora famose. Il nipote, Giorgio jr, l’arte del suo tempo e del suo
Slow tour amongst wild beaches P a ol o P e rl a sca
P a ol o P e rl a sca
P a ol o P e rl a sca
e s r u o c f f O ice n e V f o p a m r e h t o e th Off course. The othe r map of Venice is a br and new map of the city, th e little vademecum of ideas an d advice for ecofriendly and fair trade holidays in th e la goon, away from the us ual tourist routes. It's mor e than just a map produced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the noprofit organisation AEres it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, mar kets, farms), and also sugges ts eco friendly and vegeta rian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, th e other islands of the lagoon an d the surrounding area. The whole publication can be cons ulted be fore you set out, on th e portal of
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www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta
04
08
04
Rendezvous with art
Collezionismi alla Ca' D'Oro
08
Exhibitions in Venice
Oltre 20 mostre d'arte da non perdere
10
SUMMARY
Venetian festivals
10
See you in Venice
14
La Regata Storica
Cartellone degli eventi in corso
16
Verdi & Wagner 2013
14
16
Viva Verdi
20
Off course: the other Venice From Venice to Pellestrina
26
The stones of Venice
20
28
venetian curiosities, traditions and ancient crafts
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Re n d e z vo u s w i th a r t
From Giorgio Franchetti to Giorgio Franchetti
T
he artworks assembled by two extraordinary collectors, grandfather and grandson, are united for the first time at Ca’ d’Oro, the residence chosen by the former, Baron Giorgio Franchetti, to house his treasures, which he later donated to the public. Alongside the antique works collected by his grandfather, the equally rare collection of Giorgio junior is displayed for the duration of the exhibition, an exemplary documentation of the new Italian art of the postwar period. Two very different art collections, very different too the historical context and milieu in which the two men lived and moved. Baron Franchetti senior was a lover of ancient art, minor masters, rare and as yet undiscovered
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works. His grandson, Giorgio junior, loved Ontani… and if he made a concession to the art of his era and habitat, Rome in the "historical" painting it was for Giacomo 1950s and 60s, a time of innovation and Balla. These works are reunited, having been ferment, which he seized upon and even scattered following the collector's death, in enlivened. From Giorgio senior's the second floor "portego" of Cà d’Oro. knowledgeable passion for ancient art, particularly from the Renaissance, comes a highly original collection of artists from Tuscany and central Italy, Venice and Every part of the Ca’ d’Oro is involved in this Flanders, from Giambono to Mantegna, largescale exhibition dedicated to the two from Titian, Tintoretto and Paris Bordon to Franchettis. The itinerary begins in the Guardi, but also van Eyck and van Dyck, palace's atmospheric interior courtyard, Paul Brill and Joachim Patinier. His resting place of Giorgio senior's ashes, and grandson Giorgio Franchetti, who died continues on the first floor with a section several years ago, entirely collected Tano Festa, Cy dedicated to the until 24th November Twombly, Enrico Museum's Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro Castellani, Piero founder, his Monday 8.15 - 14.00; Tuesday to Saturday 8.15 Manzoni, Alighiero family and his 15.00; Sunday 10.00 18.00. Boetti, Gino De generous Sunday and holiday opening times are subject to Dominicis, Mimmo donation of the variation. Rotella, Mario Schifano, Ca’ d’Oro and www.cadoro.org Ceroli, Fabro, Luigi its art collection
Th e exh i bi ti on
I n form ati on
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to the state in 1916. The heart and soul of the Baron's collection is the socalled Chapel of Mantegna, conceived by the owner to house the suffering St. Sebastian. Andrea Mantegna's masterpiece stands as a symbol of the nobleman's obstinate determination to turn Ca’ d’Oro into a sublime place of beauty and art. Among the most prestigious works in the gallery which also boasts a fascinating section of sixteenth and seventeenth century Flemish and Dutch painting, including Van Dyck's portait of Marcello Durazzo are Titian's Venus with Mirror, and two Venetian vedute by Francesco Guardi. Equally significant are the Renaissance sculptures which were gradually added to the collection, and the series of medals, bronzes, carpets, tapestries, detached frescoes and wooden furniture from various periods and provenance, as well as a huge collection of ceramics acquired by the museum in 1992. The part of the exhibition devoted to the baron's grandson, on the second floor, highlights his passion and skill as a collector of modern art in
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Mostre i n ci ttà
Leonardo Da Vinci
Napoleone Martinuzzi
Sylvano Bussotti
dal 1° settembre al 1° dicembre
dal 8 settembre al 1° dicembre
dal 28 settembre al 7 gennaio 2014
Gallerie dell'Accademia.
Fondazione Giorgio Cini
Casa di Carlo Goldoni
La mostra si sviluppa attorno all’eccezionale
Isola di San Giorgio
San Polo 2794
nucleo di fogli autografi del maestro di
La mostra illustrerà l'intera produzione
La Casa di Carlo Goldoni fa da cornice idea
Vinci, tra esse risalta il celeberrimo studio
dell'artista per la vetreria Venini.
le all’esposizione in anteprima delle mario
di proporzioni umane, noto come Uomo Vi
Dopo gli eleganti soffiati trasparenti anche
netteburattino create dalla geniale fantasia
truviano.
le opere dalla inedita tessitura opaca.
di uno dei personaggi più poliedrici del
www.gallerieaccademia.org
www.lestanzedelvetro.it/
mondo dell’arte.
La Bella del Tiziano
www.carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it
dal 12 settembre al 8 dicembre
Avanguardie parigine
Palazzo Grimani
dal 29 settembre al 6 gennaio 2014
Castello 4858
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
“La Bella di Tiziano”, meglio nota come “La
Dorsoduro 701
Bella”, restaurata da pochi anni, è uno dei
La mostra raccoglie una ricca selezione di
dipinti più celebri del maestro cadorino.
circa 100 dipinti e opere su carta e si foca
www.palazzogrimani.org
lizza sulle maggiori avanguardie francesi di fine Ottocento.
I Doni di Shah Abbas
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www.guggenheimvenice.it
dal 28 settembre al 12 gennaio 2014
Camera 1953/1964
Palazzo Ducale
dal 5 ottobre all’8 dicembre
Percorso attraverso le relazioni diplomati
Ca’ Pesaro
che tra la Serenissima e la Persia all’epoca di
Santa Croce 2076
Shah Abbas I il Grande.
La rivista “Camera”, pubblicata a partire dai
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
primi anni ’20 in Svizzera, diventa negli anni ’50 e ‘60 un punto di riferimento
internazionale
per
la
fotografia,
grazie
all’impegno di Romeo Martinez che la dirige fino al 1964. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
La collezione Panza dal 5 ottobre al 12 gennaio 2014 Ca' Pesaro Santa Croce 2076 La mostra rende omaggio a Giuseppe Panza di Biumo, la cui passione, intuito e fede nell’arte contemporanea hanno permesso di creare una delle più interessanti raccolte d’arte delle pitture americane del secondo dopoguerra. si è imbattuto in alcuni materiali e li ha scelti
Studi e scoperte al Correr
con lo spirito del collezionista e dell’appas
fino al 31 dicembre 2015
sionato più che dello storico o dello studioso.
Museo Correr
fino al 29 settembre
www.labiennale.org
Piazza San Marco, 52
Ca’ Pesaro
Rudolf Stingel
Opere d’arte e raffinatissimi manufatti, sia
Santa Croce 2076 Ileana Sonnabend è stata una delle più
fino al 31 dicembre
riuniti in serrato dialogo a evocare l’ideale
grandi e influenti scopritrici di talenti artisti
Palazzo Grassi
raccolta di un colto collezionista in un pa
ci della seconda metà del Novecento, la sua
San Marco 3231
lazzo patrizio: un “tesoro” finalmente ritro
visionarietà precorritrice e quell’eclettismo
La mostra presenta una selezione di oltre
vato.
di gusto e pensiero le hanno permesso di
trenta dipinti, alcuni di proprietà dell’artista,
www.correr.visitmuve.it
comprendere
altri provenienti dalla collezione Pinault e da
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
LaCollezioneSonnabend
e
promuovere
il
nuovo
veneziani che provenienti da luoghi lontani,
nell’arte americana e europea.
altre collezioni internazionali.
Venezia e la Grafica
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
www.palazzograssi.it
fino al 15 settembre
Time Lapse
Ca' Pesaro Santa Croce 2076
fino al 24 novembre
La mostra ripercorre i passi di un’avventura
Negozio Olivetti
culturale che vide Venezia al centro del di
San Marco 101
battito incisorio italiano più aggiornato, po
Il progetto comprende un’installazione so
nendo le basi anche di un importante
nora dei Dj Donato Dozzy e Rabih Beaini e
confronto internazionale.
una mostra fotografica di Armin Linke, che
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
presentano una rilettura, attraverso il suono e la fotografia, dell’architettura del Negozio Olivetti progettato da Carlo Scarpa. www.negoziolivetti.it
Amarcord
IN CHIUSURA Outsider in a box fino al 5 settembre Museo Ebraico
fino al 24 novembre
Mostra personale di Dwora Fried. Potenti e
Ca’ Giustinian
provocatorie, a volte ironiche, le creazioni di
San Marco 1364/A
Dwora Fried catturano persone, luoghi ed
In questa mostra vengono portati alla luce
emozioni sotto vetro. Letteralmente.
frammenti della storia della Biennale di Ve
www.museoebraico.it
nezia, grazie all’incursione del curatore che
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La Regata Storica The historical commemoration and regatta take place the first Sunday in september each year
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Ve n e t i a n f e s t i v a l s
The Regata Storica (Historical Regatta) is an im portant sporting event combined with a historical commemoration, which takes place on the first Sunday in September each year. The event consists of two distinct stages: the historical pageant, followed by the competitive regatta.
Th e h i stori cal p agean t The event commemorates the welcome given in 1489 to Caterina Cornaro, wife of the King of Cyprus, who gave up her throne in favour of the Republic of Venice. The spectacular pageant features scores of boats in sixteenthcentury style, brightly coloured and rowed by gondoliers in period costume, which trans port the Doge, his wife and all the highestranking Venetian officials, in a faithful reconstruction of the glorious past of one of the Mediterranean's most powerful and influential Maritime Republics. The procession departs from the Bacino di San Marco and travels the length of the Grand Canal to the Ponte della Costituzione, before following the same route back to the finish line of the rowing races, greeted by ap plause from Venetians and tourists watching the mag nificent sight from the banks and buildings along the route.
Th e regatta The competitive part of the celebrations consists of the boat races, and even today this is the most important and prestigious rowing event in the Venetian calendar. The winners receive prizes from the highest city au thorities and are seen as true Venetian champions and held in enormous respect in the world of rowing. Today the four competitions are subdivided by age and type of craft: the most famous, and hugely anticipated by the Venetians, is the race of the "Campioni su Gondolini", Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e
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Ci ttĂ d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e
small gondolas which fly down the Grand Canal to the finish line at the famous mach ina, the floating stage moored in front of the Ca' Foscari, seat of the University of Venice. As well as cash prizes, the first four teams classified receive traditional symbolic flags. The winners are awarded red flags, followed by white, green and blue. Until 2002 tradi tion required the fourth team in the champi ons' race to be awarded a live piglet, which would feature in the historical pageant. However, due to protests from animal rights campaigners, the live piglet has been re placed by a pig made of Murano glass. The essential points and stages of the regatta are: the spagheto, the rope stretched across the starting line in front of the Sant’Elena gardens; the paleto, a pole fixed in the centre of the Grand Canal in front of Santa Lucia railway station, where so tradition has it the win ners are determined; the machina, a floating construction car ried by a barge anchored in a bend in the canal in front of Cà Foscari, sumptuously decorated with gold and coloured carvings, the official finishing place for the races and where the prizes are given. FESTE PATRONALI Festa del mosto 6 ottobre Isola di Sant'Erasmo (Ve) www.santerasmovenezia.com
La B i sson a This is a special kind of boat, sleek in shape, fast and flatbottomed, used exclusively in water pageants and processions. It features lavish traditional decorations and is typically rowed by eight oarsmen. The name comes from the dialect word "bissa", meaning water snake, an extremely fast swimmer, while the type of craft probably descends from ancient warships, known for their speed and man oeuvrability. The bissone is used for special occasions, such as the water pageant which opens the Regata Storica, or for traditional commemorative events like the Sposalizio del Mare (marriage of the sea). Two other types of boat are often commonly called bissone but in fact have a different kind of construc tion: the bissona Serenissima, seventeen metres long, keeled rather than flatbot tomed and powered by eighteen oarsmen, and the bissona Dogaressa, which is actually a special fouroared gondola, richly decor ated and bigger than the traditional gondola. Taken from Wikipedia
Festa del peocio (cozza) dal 6 all’8 settembre Oasi WWF Dune degli Alberoni Lido di Venezia www.dunealberoni.it
Mestre in centro fino al 27 ottobre in occasione della Festa di San Michele Mestre (Ve) www.mestreincentro.it
Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e
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S e e y o u i n Ve n i c e
La B i e n n a l e d i Ve n e zi a
CULTURALEVENTS
Campiello award 2013
Lugsail Day
70. International Cinematographic Art Exhibition
7th September La Fenice Theatre
8th September – St Mark’s Basin
The prestigious literary award ceremony is
The President of the Republic’s Cup is a
held in one of the most representative and
regatta in St Mark’s Basin followed by a
until 7th September – Venice Lido
prestigious backdrops of the city’s history
parade to the Campo dell’Arsenale, where
The Exhibition aims to promote the knowledge
and culture. It is an exclusive appointment,
boats and AVT instructors will be available
and circulation of international cinema in all its
strictly by invite only, where high society,
to respond to citizens’ questions and doubts.
forms of art, show and industry, in a spirit of
culture and show business meet.
Followed by refreshments for all parti
freedom and dialogue. The show organises ret
www.premiocampiello.org
cipants.
rospectives and homages to important person alities, contributing to an improved knowledge
MUSIC
3.FestivalGaetanoCallido
of the history of cinema. www.labiennale.org
from 20th to 22nd September Nicelli
Various churches in Venice
Airport – Venice Lido
Il Festival pone come propri obiettivi la cono
This
scenza e la promozione dell’arte della musica
September at the Nicelli Airport on the
d’organo nella città, attraverso appuntamenti
Venice Lido. During the fair you can visit
settimanali ad ingresso libero diretti alla cit
exhibitions, take part in conventions and, of
tadinanza e ai visitatori.
course, watch the acrobatic shows.
www.callidoavenezia.com
www.aeroportonicelli.it
Historical Regatta 2013
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Fly Venice
until 27th September, every Friday at 9pm –
AVVENIMENTI SPORTIVI
D a v i d e O l i v a ti
www.velaalterzo.it
event
takes
place
every
year
in
28. Venice Marathon 27th October – Waterfront on the Riva dei
1st September – St Mark’s Basin
Sette Martiri
The Regattas give rowing champions a chance to com
Every year this internationallyrenowned
pete: the spectators participate with passion by shout
sports event attracts thousands of marathon
ingwordsofencouragementtotheirfavourites.
runners from all over the world.
www.regatastoricavenezia.it
www.venicemarathon.it
( ) 5 5 . I n tern ati on al Ar t E xh i bi ti on
“Trafaria Praia” Floating Pavilion
until 24th November – Riva dei Partigiani (near the ACTV Gardens stop)
A journey in a typical Portuguese boat
where you will find yourself in a surreal atmosphere.
The
crossing
takes
place
between the Gardens and the Customs Point.
www.vasconcelostrafariapraia.com
ALTRI EVENTI
Antiques Market from20th to22nd September–CampoSanMaurizio
BochaleriaiGiardini2013
A traditional antiques market held, as always, in the splendid backdrop of Campo
www. va scon ce l ostra fa ri a p ra i a . com mental illness over the centuries. Open upon
FOR FAMILIES
O U R WI N G E D FRI E N D S
7th, 15th September, 5th and 20th October
San Maurizio, just a stone’s throw from St
from 10am to 6pm – Giardini di Castello
Mark’s Square.
6th October 10.30am Dune degli
Venice’s potters reawaken a passion for a
www.mercatinocamposanmaurizio.it
Alberoni WWF Oasis
forgotten art. Including conferences and ceramics workshops open to all. www.bochaleri.it
2. Altro Futuro Fair
Autumn in Mestre until
27th
Migratory bird ringing session www.dunealberoni.it
October – Mestre
This year’s traditional appointment organ ised in occasion of the Patron Saint St Mi
request/booking.
from13thto15thSeptFondamentaZattere,Venice
chael Archangel has a full calendar of quality
www.fondazionesanservolo.it
from19thto22ndSeptPiazzaFerretto,Mestre
initiatives.
On each of the seven days, there will be a
www.mestreincentro.it
market fair, a nonstop series of laboratories, meetings, presentations and shows dedicated to both adults and children. www.altrofuturo.net
GUIDEDTOURS
Wagner Museum Venice Town Casino Ca' Vendramin Calergi The collection of Josef Lienhart, the largest
CrossBearers' Oratory
private collection dedicated to the German
The painting cycle of Palma the Young is conserved
the room where Richard Wagner died and the
here: eight large canvasses taking up the entire wall
rooms next to it, set up as a museum. Booking is
space narrate, with strong realism, the events linked
obligatory by 12 PM of the day before the visit.
to the history of the hospital and the CrossBearing
www.casinovenezia.it
Monks. Open upon request/booking. www.scalabovolo.org/oratorio2.html
Mental Hospital Museum
composer after that of Bayreuth, is exhibited in
Hospital Music Room ’Ospedaletto Church Connected to the activities of famous musicians, the
San Servolo Island
Room was frescoed by Jacopo Guarana and
Ancient Benedictine monastery and later
Agostino Mengozzi Colonna, interpreters of a tradi
convent, in the 1700s San Servolo became a
tion that reached its maximum splendour in the
Military Hospital and finally a Psychiatric
1700s thanks to the artist Giambattista Tiepolo’s
Hospital for men until 1978. Today, the mu
example. Open upon request/booking.
seum narrates the approach of medicine to
www.scalabovolo.org/ospedaletto2.html
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Ve r d i & Wa g n e r
Lo ng li ve V erdi The works of the Swan of Busseto re-echo in Venice's theatres.
T
wo hundred years ago two giants of music and theatre were born: Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner. Their works have never been more alive and relevant on stages all over the world, and are also celebrated in the lagoon city. For the month of September, here is a short itinerary in Venice for lovers of Verdi余 a late summer or early autumn stroll through the Cannaregio and San Marco districts in the very heart of the city, taking in the theatres where Verdi's music was first performed in the 19th century or where Verdi's works, or concerts dedicated to the maestro, are being staged at the conclusion of the 2012足2013 season. The route begins in the area of San Giovanni Grisostomo, a few steps from the Rialto and the Grand Canal, at the Theatre of San Giovanni Grisostomo, which was re足named Teatro Malibran in 1835 in honour of the soprano Elvira Malibran following the singer's success in Vincenzo Bellini's La Sonnambula. Built in 1677 by the Grimani family on a site once occupied
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M i ch e l e Crose ra
by the house of the famous Venetian explorer Marco Polo (destroyed by fire in the late six teenth century), in the 17th century this was the grandest and bestknown theatre in Europe and the largest and most sumptu ously decorated in Venice: an enormous chandelier was raised and lowered through a trapdoor in the ceiling; all the columns were carved and gilded. In 1875 the theatre staged an enormously successful performance of the Requiem Mass composed by Verdi on the death of Alessandro Manzoni. Continuing towards Campo San Bartolomeo and then Campo San Salvador, after the Ponte del Lovo we arrive at the Carlo Goldoni Theatre, formerly known as Teatro Ven dramin, also called San Salvador or San Luca. Built in 1622 on behalf of the Vendramin fam ily, the theatre was named after Carlo Goldoni in 1875. In 1847 the theatre staged Alzira, an opera set in Latin America and one of the composer's less successful works, which re ceived extremely negative reviews. Today
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Teatro Goldoni hosts the prose season organ ised by the “Carlo Goldoni” Teatro Stabile del Veneto, and the festival of children's theatre, as well as opera, concerts and ballets. Leaving behind Campo San Luca and Campo Manin, we take the narrow Calle della Man dola, and immediately on the right is the Rossini multiscreen cinema complex, opened in October 2012, whose layout almost exactly replicates the former Teatro di San Benedetto (subsequently Teatro Venier, Teatro Gallo, Teatro Rossini). Built by the Grimani family in 1755, this was one of the first theatres in Europe to have a cur tain; today it is the largest cinema in the old part of Venice. In May 1854 the theatre staged a hugely successful repeat performance of Verdi's masterpiece La Traviata, a year after its premiere in the Teatro La Fenice. Symbol of the history of Italian opera, La Fenice, built in 1792, stands in Campo San Fantin, a mere stone's throw from Calle della Mandola, turning left down Calle degli Assas
sini. Composers who have brought fame and fortune to the theatre include Gioacchino Rossini with Tancredi in 1813, Gaetano Don izetti with Belisario in 1836, and above all Gi useppe Verdi with Rigoletto in 1851 and La Traviata in 1853. Thanks to these masterpieces, La Fenice became one of Italy's bestknown theatres, hosting some of the most audacious and experimental works in the Italian lyrical tradition. La Fenice reopens after the summer break with the tragic story of love between Violetta Valéry and Alfredo Germont, marking the 160th an niversary of the opera's premiere, featuring the recent but classic direction of Robert Carsen and under the baton of Diego Matheuz. The first per formance on Friday 30th August 2013 will be fol lowed by thirteen performances, on 31st August and 1st, 3rd, 8th, 10th, 14th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 24th, 25th, 27th and 28th September. Bringing the Verdi cel ebrations to a close on Thursday 10th October from 5 PM, the Fenice's Sale Apollinee pay homage to the Swan of Busseto with an evening of music and readings on the anniversary of the composer's date of birth.
M i ch e l e Crose ra
M i ch e l e Crose ra
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O f f c o u r s e : t h e o t h e r Ve n i c e
From Venice to Pellestrina Slow tour amongst wild beaches and crystal blue seas
T
he sunny September days are perhaps the best days of the year to discover Venice with a short boat trip in the Venetian Lagoon and to get to know the many different faces of Venice in fact, it is said that every island is a little world in itself. In few places in the world is it possible to forget one’s present, immersing oneself in the laid back atmosphere that one feels in some islands of the Lagoon, like Lido and Pellestrina. Who could impagine that here, not far from the famous Piazza San Marco and its busy museums, caffes and boutiques, there would be two protected nature reserves covering tens of hectares: the sand dunes called Oasi Dune degli Alberoni and the nature reserve Ca’ Ro man? Despite Lido and Pellestrina being amongst the
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closest islands to Venice, they are very unique: for ex ample, in the historic city centre the canals are seen as roads and you can’t cycle along the alleys and paths, here you can pedal away happily. To get to Lido from the mainland is easy also with your bicycle: you get on a ferry (number 17, company name is ACTV) which takes people (and their means of transport) from the island of Tron chetto to Lido. If you don’t have a bicycle, on the island you can find several places to hire one. Or, you can choose to take a more comfortable tour aboard ACTV public trans port: from Piazzale Roma you get on the steamboat num ber 1, which arrives at Lido via the Grand Canal it is the slowest line but you can see all around you easily as well as the beautiful old buildings which overlook the canal. Once
The eco-friendly fair trade map of Venice Off course. The other map of Venice is a brand new map of the city, the little vademecum of ideas and advice for ecofriendly and fair trade holidays in the lagoon, away from the usual tourist routes. It's more than just a map pro duced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the noprofit organ isation AEres it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, markets, farms), and also suggests eco friendly and vegetarian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, the other islands of the lagoon and the surrounding area. The whole publication can be consulted before you set out, on the Municipality of Venice tourism portal, www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta.
M a ri a E fi si a S ch i rru G i o va n n i G h e z z o
you have arrived at Lido, you get on bus number 11 which crosses the whole island and arrives at Pellestrina on a ferry. On foot or by bike, from San Nicolò, the most westerly point of Lido, you can walk along the wide tree lined roads and along the sea front towards Malamocco bridge, taking in the Liberty and Art Deco style vil las and grand hotels. Everyone knows Lido for the famous international cinema festival, which brings big global stars to the island at the end of August and the be ginning of September, and has been doing so since 1932. Every year there are shows, events, press conferences, parties and galas. But Lido isn’t only this: there are also beautiful beaches, which receive the Blue Flag on a yearly basis, showing the sea is clean and the facilities are well
looked after. To get to Alberoni you go along the sea front and up onto on the murazzi which are stone fortifica tions created in 1751 to protect the beach and the lagoon from sea storms. Here you will see the unusual sculptures made by local people with materials drifted in from the sea. The picturesque town of Malamocco is worth a visit. It’s the first settlement on the island and looks like a little Venice with canals, squares and paths. Its fish restaurants are popular with Italian film makers Mario Soldati, Fellini and Italian comic book creator Hugo Pratt. The magis trate building (Palazzo del podestà) is nice to visit, it is the permanent home to archeological finds relating to the history of Lido. Going towards the southerly end of the island you reach the sand dunes Oasi Dune degli Al
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beroni, set between the Adriatic sea and the lagoon. Its name comes from the large trees which were clearly vis ible to those arriving by sea and which indicated the en trance to the canal port. The oasis surrounds one of the biggest and best conserved sand dunes on the Adriatic coast, with dunes as tall as 10 metres. There are paths crossing the pine forest which is 30 hectares big, and is home to flora and fauna. When you get off the boat at the island of Pellestrina, you come across little fish ing villages San Pietro in Volta, Portosecco and Pellestrina where it seems you have gone back to Venice of the 50s. You see the fishermens’ wives sat outside their front doors, bent over their crocheting an island tradition like in Burano the fishing nets spread out to dry and the children playing in each other’s houses. Linked to
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Pellestrina by the sea fortifications (Murazzi), the nature reserve Ca’ Roman is the home to unique species of birds, both water based ones like the Oyster Catcher, and Mediterranean ones like the Horned Owl and the rare European Nightjar. To visit Ca’ Roman is like going back in time and seeing the Venetian coasts of old. The reserve is also an area of interest due to the fort Forte Barbar igo and the Austrian bunkers, used up until the second world war. When the birds migrate, both protected nature reserve areas are a real paradise for bird watchers and wildlife photographers: in winter you can see the Yellow Legged Gull, the European Herring Gull and the Blackthroated Loon; in spring it is common to see the Sandwich Tern and the Mediterranean Gull, species which are not very widespread in Italy.
S te fa n o Ca ste l l i
M i ch e l e P e g ore r
An n a b e l l a S a ccon e
U sefu l ad resses Palazzo del Podestà piazza Maggiore Malamocco (VE) tours by appointment tel+39.333.6143976 Oasi Dune degli Alberoni via dei Bagni marini, località Alberoni Lido di Venezia (VE) L'area è aperta alla visita tutto l'anno; la primavera e l'autunno sono i periodi più indicati per fioriture e osservazioni faunistiche. www.dunealberoni.it Riserva naturale Ca' Roman località Ca' Roman Pellestrina (VE) Il periodo migliore per la visita va da marzo a giugno e da settembre a novembre; è possibile prenotare visite guidate ed escursioni in barca. www.lipuvenezia.it P a ol o P e rl a sca
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T h e s t o n e s o f Ve n i c e
Venetian curiosities
F a b ri zi o O l i ve tti
ancient crafts
The doradori State l ottery In 1733 in Venice, the State Lottery was officially born, under the name of “En titled Lottery of Genoa and Rome”. Ninety girls were chosen from parishes, hospitals and religious places, their names written down and put into a ballot box by five magistrates. Every year nine extractions of five names were made. While the magistrates were responsible for controlling operations, collaborators published the extracted name but, before official disclosure, groups of children ran among the alleyways of the city would re vealing the extractions in exchange for money.
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The doradori were artisans. They worked with the fine gold leaf that resulted from a series of pro cesses, starting with mixtures of plaster and red clay right up to the agate stonepolishing phase. No material could have been bet ter to celebrate Venice’s splendour than gold. It was easy to come by during the rich Byzantium age; it was the best way to represent the sacredness of a place, an object or a fabric and the thousands of square metres of mosaic in Venice’s St. Mark’sBasilicawasanearlyexample of experimentation with it. In the XV and XVI centuries, these artis ans enjoyed an extremely high repu tation, so much so as to even be requested abroad. The doradori’s
work became even more popular during the 1700s with the fashion of Rococò golden doors and furniture, or the statues of the famous “Moors” with turbans holding fruit bowls or bright torches, or in the wooden parts of theatres. And there were many theatres in Venice; among them the jewel of the Fenice, built in the second half of the 1700s follow ing the design by Giannantonio Selva. The rich stuccoed decoration, engravingsandpanelsoftheTheatre and the Apollonian Rooms attracted admiration from all over the world for their magnificence. The dramatic firesitsuffereddidnothingtodestroy its splendour; a splendour rendered immortal – as is the phoenix itself – throughaccurate renovations.
tradition
The Festival of Must The island of Saint Erasmus has a strong agricultural vo cation and as well as the famous violet artichoke, there are also many vines which bring forth a wine of a truly unique flavour. In September the grapes are harvested and then crushed and pressed leaving a cloudy and very sweet liquid: almost a lightly alcoholic grape juice from which wine is then ob tained through fermentation. Traditionally, on the first Sunday in October (this year the 6th) the Island’s festival committee organises the “Festival of Must”, a fun fair celebrating this precious nectar. As well as daylong enter tainment – including music with the local band – and solidarity initiatives, the festival starts with a morn
ing mass of thanks with the island’s greengrocers, the blessing of agricultural carts, gastronomic stands and marketexhibition. In the af ternoon is the famous, mixedcrew Venetian regatta. And finally in the evening, the traditional pub lic grape pressing, when you can even sample the grape juice directly. There are also various entertainments for children. HOW TO REACH By steamboat from Cavallino Treporti, where you can also take your bike on board, or from Venezia Pontile in Piazzale Roma or Fonda menta Nuove.
Ci ttà d i Ve n e zi a - S e rvi zi o vi d e ocom u n i ca zi on e
The colours of the flags
The Republic of Venice used to use different colours for flags to indicate whether they were in a state of war or peace. The cloth was white in times of peace and red in war. Alliance with a sovereign was indicated by a blue cloth, while a period of truce was indicated by a purple cloth. Ships always used red for both their flags and their uniforms – giving rise to the tradition of display ing red cloths over the square, consid ering that the antennas of the square represent the masts of ships.
Info: Hellovenezia 041 2424
Th e bu ttress
www. ve n e zi a si . i t
This is a typical Venetian architec tural structure consisting in pro truding wooden or stone trusses used to support the protrusion of a building on the first floor level, compared to the alleyways or land below. In layman’s terms, from the first floor up, the buttresses support the protruding part as if they were a large shelf. The one shown in the photo is in Istria stone and is found in Rialto. It was the model for all Venetian buttresses.
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La u ra Ri b a n o
V足Venezia magazine
year 1 , issue 3, September/October 201 3 Bi-monthly online magazine by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice Contacts:
turismosostenibile@comune.venezia.it
Assessorato al Turismo
All materials published on this magazine are protected by copyright. None of the contents can be reproduced, neither in whole nor in part, without the written authorization of the Tourism Department of the City of Venice or without citing the source (Tourism Department of the City of Venice). The Administration is ready to amend any omission or error in the sourcing of the copyright of images for which it was not possible to determine the source. All issues of V-Venezia magazine may be downloaded or browsed online only. Issues available at: www.issuu.com