V-Venezia magazine 2 - July August 2013 (english version)

Venezia

magazine

year 1, issue 2 july – augst 2013

eventi mostre itinerari

Venetian festivals

R Redeen ntto oree'ss F Feessttiivaall Exhibitions in Venice

V Veedo ovvaa Tinttorreetttto o Music venues

E Echhooeess oof Veerddii Rendezvous with art

M Manet..

R Retuurrn tto V Venice A n t o n i o G u e rra

Off course: the other Venice

S Slo ow D Do orrso odu uro o

where ggoonnddoollas arree bboorrn Cosimo Cardea

Fiorenzo De Luca

Manuel Casagra

e s r u o c f f O ice n e V f o p a m r e h t o e th Off course. The othe r map of Venice is a br and new map of the city, th e little vademecum of ideas an d advice for eco­friendly and fair trade holidays in th e la­ goon, away from the us ual tourist routes. It's mor e than just a map ­ produced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the no­profit organisation AEres ­ it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, mar kets, farms), and also sugges ts eco­ friendly and vegeta rian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, th e other islands of the lagoon an d the surrounding area.

The whole publication can be cons ulted be­ fore you set out, on th e portal of Municipality of Venice Tourism

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04

04

08

Rendezvous with art Manet. Return to Venice

08

Exhibitions in Venice

SUMMARY

10

10

Venetian festivals The Redentore's festival

14

See you in Venice notice of current events

16

Verdi & Wagner 2013 Echoes of Verdi

14

16

20

Off course: the other Venice Slow Dorsoduro

26

The stones of Venice venetian curiosities, traditions and ancient crafts

20

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Re n d e z vo u s w i th a r t

Manet.

Retu rn to Venice

T

he magnificent halls of the Doge's Palace are the venue for the Manet exhibition until 18th August 2013. Return to Venice consists of around eighty paintings, drawings and engravings, exhibited with the special collaboration of the MusÊe D’Orsay in Paris.

The exhibition aims to highlight the cultural models which inspired the great painter, whose style until now was considered almost exclusively to be influenced by Spanish painting, but was actually quite close to Italian Renaissance painting. This is demonstrated by the Venice exhibition, where visitors can admire, alongside his masterpieces, some exceptional works

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inspired by the grand tableaus of sixteenth Italy, which remains imbued in his work. The century Venetian art by Titian, Tintoretto exhibition is billed as a true event: never be­ and Lotto in particular. fore has Manet's painting been presented in Manet's passion for Italian Renaissance art is such a significant light in Italy, and this fully explored in the Venice exhibition, which particular aspect of his art has never been finally casts light on his close relationship wi­ exposed to critical view. th Italy and the city of the lagoon.

Neither is Italy absent from those of Manet's T h e ex h i b i t works most associated with Spain: his reli­ gious paintings owe as much to Titan and The exhibition is divided into 9 sections whi­ Andrea del Sarto as to El Greco and Veláz­ ch examine the creative development of Ma­ quez. His silent still lifes, behind their faith­ net, who was beloved by the Impressionists ful adherence to the Dutch formula, hold but ever distant from them in terms of style many surprises which are not only remini­ and composition. Perhaps the most surprising scent of Nordic tradition room is the se­ but also seem to take cond, where two I n fo rm a t i o n inspiration from a chro­ large oil canvases until 1st September 2013 matic and constructive hang side by side: Doge's Palace, Venice vigour which is wholly Titian's "Venus of Opening times Italian. When the artist Urbino" (1538) 9.00 ­ 19.00 Sunday to Thursday turns definitively to and Manet's 9.00 ­ 20.00 Friday and Saturday "modern" Paris, his "Olympia" (1863). (ticket office closes one hour earlier) painting does not leave Manet visited Italy www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it behind the memory of on three occa­

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sions; and on a visit to Florence in 1857 he made a copy of the Venus, which he reflected upon and re­worked (several sketches are on display), gra­ dually making it his own. Six years later, Olympia would be born from this creative pro­ cess, and presented in the 1865 Salon, where it was greeted with cries of scandal and caused heated debate. The third room is also highly si­ gnificant, with still lifes including "Stem of white peonies and secateurs", "Eel and red mullet", "Asparagus" and "Lemon". Although Manet pre­ ferred historical painting, with its structured composition and figures, he also painted a large number of still lifes, an effective method of ensu­ ring a little critical consensus. Behind their faith­ fulness to the Dutch style, these hold many surprises which are not only reminiscent of Nordic tradition but also seem to take inspi­ ration from a chromatic and constructive vigour which is wholly Italian. The only cause for regret among the exhibition's numerous original works is the absence of “Déjeuner Sur L’Herbe” (1863), as inheritance conditions prevent the painting leaving Paris and the Musée d'Orsay.

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E x h i b i t i o n s i n Ve n i c e

QueriniStampaliaMuseum

Vedova Tintoretto

RoyLichtensteinsculptor

Until 3rd November 2013

Until 24th November 2013

Tuesday to Sunday 10­18. Closed Monday.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova

This historic residence is home to one of the

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which houses

Exhibition of sculpture dedicated to Lichtenstein,

richest art collections in Venice, with over

a magnificent series of large­scale paintings by

one of the major players in American pop art.

four hundred paintings by Venetian, Italian

Tintoretto, opens its doors for the first time to

www.fondazionevedova.org

and Flemish artists from the 14th to the

modern art with this project: Contemporary

19th century.

San Rocco: in dialogue with Tintoretto.

www.querinistampalia.org

www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it

...So­called Carnivals...

Jacob Hashimoto: Gas Giant Until 1st September 2013 Fondazione Querini Stampalia

Until 24th November 2013

A sensory experience where time and space

Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova ­

coordinates become confused and the visi­

Exhibition Hall

tor is amazed and awestruck

...So­called Carnivals... assembles works

www.querinistampalia.org

completed between 1977 and 1991, resulting in an unusual exhibition within Emilio Ve­

Prima Materia

dova's repertoire.

Until 31st December 2013

www.fondazionevedova.org

Punta della Dogana

Ana Tzarev. Love & Peace

The exhibition gathers around 80 works

Until 24th November 2013

artists from the Pinault Collection.

Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art

www.palazzograssi.it

Artist Ana Tzarev presents her global

dating from 1960 to the present day, by

campaign Love & Peace: an enormous

Treasures of the ghetto

sculpture of a flower which sprouts in the

Until 29th September 2013

centre

Galleria Franchetti ­ Ca' d'Oro

of

a

collection

of

her

flower

paintings.

A project steeped in significance for the

www.veneziaupt.org

500­year history of the Hebrew Community

in Venice: the restoration of liturgical objects

Doge's Palace

exquisitely wrought in gold and silver by Ve­

The exhibition unveils the most recent

netian craftsmen between the 17th and 20th

creative destinations of this Venetian artist

centuries, saved from the ravages of Nazism.

who is tireless in his research into the mate­

www.jvenice.org

rials, shapes and expressive potential of painting, graphics and sculpture.

55th Biennale d'arte Until 24th November 2013

palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

Various venues in Venice

Outsider in a box

There will be 48 events associated with the 55th

Until 5th September 2013

Biennale, entitled The Encyclopedic Palace. The

Jewish Museum

free events take place in numerous venues. A

Personal exhibition by Dwora Fried. Po­

wide range of contributions and involvement to

werful and provocative, often ironic, Dwora

enrich and characterize the exhibition.

Fried's creations capture people, places and

www.labiennale.org

emotions under glass. Literally.

Eraldo Mauro ­ Slides Until 1st December 2013

www.museoebraico.it

70th Film Festival 28th August ­ 7th September 2013 Palazzo del Cinema ­ Venice Lido Two new prizes in the Orizzonti section:

Murano Glass Museum

Maxim Kantor ­ Atlantis

This art project is based on the evocative power

Until 15th September 2013

Special Award for innovative content. Official Ve­

of colour perception and the common thread

Collegio Armeno ­ Palazzo Zenobio

nice Classics section dedicated to restored pieces

which links alchemy, glass and the slide.

In the city of the lagoon the artist presents

and documentaries on the history of cinema.

www.museovetro.visitmuve.it

his personal vision of the current, umpteenth

www.labiennale.org

Carlo Guarienti Until 30th September 2013

Orizzonti prize for best director and Orizzonti

period of crisis in Western civilization.

His works express the dynamic nature of hi­ storic cycles: the ocean and time are cyclical and follow no laws but their own. www.officinadellezattere.it

CLOSING Capital of Nowhere Until 10th July 2013

From fashion to perfume

Ca' Foscari Zattere ­ Dorsoduro 1392 Collective exhibition of artists from Saint Pe­

5th July ­ 31st December 2015

tersburg. The works on show consider the

Palazzo Mocenigo

effects of industrialization, urbanization, re­

In this space visitors can explore an unusual

volution,

exhibition dedicated entirely to the history of

construction.

scent and perfume.

www.unive.it

war,

construction

and

re­

www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Venice and Graphic art

Manet. Return to Venice Until 18th August 2013

13th July ­ 15th September 2013

Doge's Palace

Ca' Pesaro ­ Gallery of Modern Art

Exhibition of around eighty paintings, dra­

The exhibition represents a cultural adventu­

wings and engravings, with the special colla­

re which locates Venice at the centre of Italy's

boration of the Musée D’Orsay in Paris.

most polemic current issues, laying the

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

ground for an important international debate. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

The Redentore's festival The "notte famosissima"

Ve n e t i a n f e s t i v a l s

T

he origins of this festival date back to the Republic of Venice, when in 1575足6 a terrible outbreak of plague killed almost 50,000 people.

The Senate of the day made a solemn vow to God that if the epidemic ceased they would build a church dedicated to the Redentore (Saviour) on the Island of Giudecca. And so, when the plague finally finished in 1577, work on the church began, to a design by architect Andrea Palladio. The church was completed in 1592 by the architect Antonio Da Ponte.

T h e th a n k s g i v i n g b ri d ge During the two days of the festival a pontoon bridge connects the bank of the Zattere with the Island of Giudecca where the church stands. Pilgrims can cross the bridge in both directions, but is out of bounds during the firework display. Water traffic is possible via the bridge's only arch, but obviously large cruise ships cannot pass.

T h e fe s t i va l to d ay On the most famous night, as the Venetians call it, the popular festival is held in Saint Mark's Basin. The event is attended by thousands of people who watch the firework display from the banks and from hundreds of picturesque boats: the clean and tidy boats of "foreigners", and those of authentic Venetians, plus the fishing boats, where fish is cooked in a thousand different ways. The festival is extremely important to Venetians, who spend days decorating their boats with leafy branches and colourful paper lanterns lit by candles or fairy lights. While waiting for the fireworks there is singing, dancing and feasting on traditional dishes such as sweet and sour sardines, beans with onions, snails with garlic, pasta with beans and the ubiquitous watermelon.

The firework display is truly unforgettable, enhanced by the spectacular setting of Saint Mark's Basin lit up by a thousand colours. Afterwards the boats gradually make their way out of the Bacino di San Marco: some people head for home, while others carry on partying on the

Davide Toffanin

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Davide Toffanin

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Lido beach until the magical sunrise. On Sunday the Regatta takes place on the Giudecca Canal, followed by the conclusion of the festivities with a Thanksgiving Mass celebrated in the church in the presence of the faithful and the city authorities. This year the Festival of the Redentore takes place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st July.

L o c a l fe s t i va l s Festival of Sant’Antonio 2013 4th ­ 7th July Pellestrina Evening dancing, live shows and traditional food and drinks. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it Festival of Madonna di Marina 2013 5th ­ 14th July Malamocco A packed programme of leisure and sports, but also cultural events linked to popular Veneto traditions. sites.google.com/site/comitatofestemalamoc co/madonna­di­marina­1 Festival of Madonna dell’Apparizione 2013 27th ­ 28th July and 1st to 4th August Pellestrina Evening dancing and food and drinks stalls.

Liturgical celebrations will take place during the festival. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it

Festival of Portosecco, Santo Stefano 2013 10th ­ 15th August San Pietro in Volta At all these festivals traditional local products can be sampled at the food and drinks stalls.

There will be plenty of dancing, sports events, children’s games and closing ceremonies with surprise firework displays. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it Feast of San Giacomo dell'Orio July 18th to 27th 2013 Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio Concerts, food stalls and a charity raffle make up this local fair. www.elforce.altervista.org Feast of Saint Roch August 16th 2013 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Morning Masses, Solemn Mass followed by Procession, at 6 pm. Display of the Treasure at the Scuola and ceremony of the Saint Roch Prize. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it

A n t o n i o G u e rra

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S e e y o u i n Ve n i c e

MUSIC Estate Village 2013

Otello

themes. Entry is free for children under 12

10th ­ 14th July 2013

accompanied by parents, disabled people

Doge's Palace

and their carers. A reserved area is provided

1st June ­ 31st July 2013

Opera in four acts, music by Giuseppe Verdi

within the space

Parco di S.Giuliano

Conductor: Myung­Whun Chung, director:

www.liveinve.com

This year Estate (Summer) Village celebrates

Francesco Micheli Orchestra and Choir

its 15th edition

Teatro

www.villagestate.it

Veneziani.

19th July ­ 31st August 2013

www.teatrolafenice.it

Courtyard of the Doge's Palace, 21.30

La

Fenice

and

Piccoli

Cantori

Amore e Musica

Requiem Mass

Music

by

Giuseppe

Verdi.

Conductor:

15th June ­ 24th August 2013

VeneziaJazzFestival

Myung­Whun Chung, choirmaster: Claudio

Blue Moon Beach ­ Venice Lido

16th ­ 31st July 2013

Marino Moretti. Orchestra and Choir Teatro

Summer season of concerts on the beach

Venice ­ various venues

La Fenice.

FREE ENTRY

Keith Jarrett and Chick Corea 16th and 26th

www.teatrolafenice.it

July Venezia Jazz Festival is back at the lagoon

Venice Sherwood Festival

The sixth edition of the prestigious music

19th July ­ 31st August 2013

event starts on 16th July and continues until

Parco di S.Giuliano

the 31st of the same month. Once again this

Every day from 19.00; Sundays from 17.00

year innumerable international music stars

Long­running independent cultural festival

will take their place on the city's stages.

showcasing the best bands on the indie

www.venetojazz.com

music scene. An important part of the festival

taken

up

with

debates,

presentations

Island of San Giorgio Maggiore

themes. Entry is free for children under 12

Long­running independent cultural festival

accompanied by parents, disabled people

showcasing the best bands on the indie

and their carers. A reserved area is provided

music scene. An important part of the

within the space

festival

www.sherwood.it

is

presentations

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is

L.I.VE in Venice

taken and

up

with

analysis

on

debates, cultural

and

analysis

on

cultural

( ) TeatrinodiPalazzoGrassi until 14 july 2013

The Teatrino begins its programme with a series of art films (Loris Gréaud, Philippe Parreno e Anri Sala), screened every day until 14th July. www.palazzograssi.it

FREE ENTRY

Ottonovecentostrumentale

A veritable factory of ideas around the

14th ­23rd August 2013

possibilities of theatre: languages, codes,

San Nicoló Cloister, Venice Lido

techniques and technology, science and

Series of concerts organised by the Archivio

scenery are the guidelines for a systematic

Musicale Guido Alberto Fano to celebrate

examination of the form by maestros and

the tenth anniversary of its foundation.

leading figures from all over the world.

www.archiviofano.it

www.labiennale.org

THEATRE AND DANCE Biennale College ­ Theatre

GUIDED TOURS

1st ­ 11th August 2013 Venice Biennale

Palazzetto Bru Zane Visits: 14.30 in Italian; 15.00 in French; 15.30 in English.

Every Thursday afternoon the Palazzetto Bru

FOR FAMILIES Reading in the garden Querini Stampalia Foundation, children from 3 to 6 Series presented by actress, di­ rector and reader Margherita Stevanato, organised by the Querini Stampalia Foundation to discover, or rediscover, the pleasure of reading.

Free entry, first come first served.

Booking necessary on 041 2711425. www.querinistampalia.org

Zane, a small gem of late 17th century Venetian architecture, opens its doors for free guided tours. A charming tour of a typical Venetian house boasting frescoes by Sebastiano Ricci and stuccoes by Abbondio Stazio. www.bru­zane.com

The Pine forest of Alberoni August 18th 2013 10:30 am

TheancientvillageofMalamocco

Oasi WWF Dune degli Alberoni

July 21st and August 25th 2013 at 11:00 am

A guided tour to discover the flora and fauna

Malamocco ­ Palazzo del Podesta

of Alberoni pine forest and dunes.

The oldest settlement on Lido island, and

www.dunealberoni.it

one of the oldest in the entire Venice Lagoon. www.dunealberoni.it Info: 3482686472

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Bicentenary Verdi Wagner 2013

Echoes of Verdi Discover Venice through its music Michele Crosera

Ve r d i & Wa g n e r

Adriano Bussi

T

Giovanni Boldini, 1886. Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna di Roma

he exploration of the Venetian places and events linked to Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner continues in the year of the double bicentenary of the two great composers, with a new itinerary which takes in palaces and theatres in the footsteps of Verdi, commemorating the Maestro's personal and artistic life.

Where else to start our journey but La Fenice Theatre, one of the world's greatest opera venues, which has recently celebrated its 221st birthday (16th May 2013). The connection between La Fenice and Verdi is a deep足rooted one: no fewer than five premieres of works by the Swan of Busseto took place in the Venetian theatre, from Ernani to Attila, Rigoletto to La Traviata and Simon Boccanegra. In his later years, the composer responded to the affection shown him by the theatre management by sending autographed photos, which are now preserved in the Historic Archives of La Fenice Theatre, together with other Verdi足 related documents numbering more than two hundred. No excuse for not visiting the theatre, built in 1790, which stands opposite the Church of San Fantin in the sestiere of San Marco. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times over the centuries, the theatre was restored to its former splendour following the

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Michele Crosera

U s e f u l a d re s s e s Teatro La Fenice campo San Fantin, 1965 San Marco ­ Venezia www.teatrolafenice.it www.festfenice.com Archivio storico della Fondazione Teatro La Fenice calle delle Colonne 4391/A San Marco ­ Venezia www.archiviostoricolafenice.org

most recent fire in 1996: the guided tour tells the theatre's story from its founding to the present day, complete with secrets and glimpses behind the scenes. A short distance separates Campo San Fantin from Saint Mark's Square: a few minutes' walk up La Frezzaria brings us out in the square: here, next to the famous Basilica of Saint Mark, stands the Doge's Palace, masterpiece of Gothic art and symbolic Venetian site. The courtyard of the Palace will be the venue for three performances, on the 10th, 14th and 17th July, of Verdi's Otello, which has not been performed in Venice for over forty years. This event is a showpiece of the prestigious "Spirit of Music in Venice" festival which will entertain the Venetian public during the summer months. In this year's programme, La Fenice Theatre could not but put Verdi's bicentenary centre stage with a homage to the Maestro in full

Venetian flavour: by a new staging of the drama of Otello, in which the Venetian Moor loves, struggles and is destroyed by jealousy against a background of late fifteenth century Cyprus. On Friday 19th July, also in the courtyard of the Doge's Palace, La Fenice hosts a second homage to Giuseppe Verdi, with a performance of his Requiem Mass, conducted by Myung­Whun Chung. Leaving Saint Mark's Square by the Napoleonic Wing, we follow the Salizada San Moisè, turning right into Calle del Ridotto, to reach Ca’ Giustinian, a late­Gothic palace dating from 1471, overlooking the Bacino di San Marco. This palace opened as a hotel in 1820, and accommodated the Maestro during one of his stays in the city, as well as many other illustrious guests, including Theophile Gautier, William Turner and Marcel Proust. Today it is the seat of the Venice Biennale, with space for

Palazzo Ducale Piazza San Marco, 1 San Marco ­ Venezia palazzoducale.visitmuve.it Ca’ Giustinian calle del Ridotto, 1364/A San Marco ­ Venezia www.labiennale.org Palazzo Badoer Tiepolo corte Ca' Barozzi, 2159 San Marco ­ Venezia Fondazione teatro la Fenice

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Michele Crosera

permanent exhibitions and services for the public. A little distance away, following Calle Larga XXII Marzo and turning right again, we come to Palazzo Badoer Tiepolo (today Hotel Westin Europa & Regina), where Verdi stayed in February 1851 to oversee the rehearsals of Rigoletto. This was also the favourite residence of Franz Liszt (1839) and Richard Wagner (September 1876余 April and September 1882). The Verdi summer season concludes with

performances of La Traviata at La Fenice Theatre from 30th August to 28th September, 160 years after its premiere, newly staged by Robert Carsen and with musical direction

by Diego Matheuz. Some of the documents held in the theatre archives have overturned the popularly足held view that the premiere of La Traviata was a disaster: the opera was performed a total of nine times (when in those days three performances was considered a success), with ticket

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O f f c o u r s e : t h e o t h e r Ve n i c e

Slow Dorsoduro Where the gondolas are born

I

n Venice, Slow city par excellence, it is still pos­ sible to travel slowly, get a different perspective on the ci­ ty, experience its most secret places, learn their stories and their ancient traditions. Strolling in si­ lence through the streets, the voices and sounds of the residents evoke the poetry and the soul of a city built on an archipelago of little islands and canals, whose houses and palaces are reflected in the water: here the art of boat­building has always been fundamental, and even today the last workshops survive still, hiding­places for the traditional vessels of life on the lagoon.

The names of these boats are full of old­world charm: pupparini, sandoli, sciopòni, burci, bra­

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gozzi, peate, and of course the gondola, the unmistakable symbol of the lagoon city. It's just a few steps away from the run­of­the­mill tourist trail, to find the master craftsmen who still pass the ancient art of gondola building down the gene­ rations. This itinerary can be done in a morning or an afternoon, and invites you to a step by step ex­ ploration of Dorsoduro, one of Venice's six se­ stieri, or districts. This area has always been the centre of the traditional skills of boat­building, and here we can find the last surviving "squeri", or ty­ pical yards where the oared craft are made. In a city where past and present live side by side, Dorsoduro too has a double soul: although it remains a quiet

The eco-friendly fair trade map of Venice Off course. The other map of Venice is a brand new map of the city, the little vademecum of ideas and advice for eco­friendly and fair trade holidays in the lagoon, away from the usual tourist routes. It's more than just a map ­ produced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the no­ profit organisation AEres ­ it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, markets, farms), and also suggests eco­friendly and vegetarian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, the other islands of the lagoon and the surrounding area.

The whole publication can be consulted before you set out, on the Municipality of Venice tourism portal, www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta.

Luca Bianchetto Fabrizio Vendramin

area and one of the Venetians' favourite parts of the city, in recent years Dorsoduro has been trans­ formed into Venice's most arty and chic quarter. Between Punta della Dogana and San Trovaso is a concentration of art galleries and important museums, from the Gallerie dell’Accade­ mia to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Francois Pinault Centre of Contemporary Art. Near the Campo San Barnaba is the University area, bursting with little cafés, bars and restaurants.

Campo Santa Margherita is a meeting place for stu­ dents and Venetians going about their daily busi­ ness, and where mums bring their children to play.

From here we continue to the church of San Nicolo

dei Mendicoli, which according to tradition is one of the oldest in Venice, built in an area once occu­ pied by sailors and fishermen. We continue to­ wards San Sebastiano, a sixteenth century church embellished by frescoes and paintings by Paolo Ve­ ronese. We then join rio San Trovaso, home since the early seventeenth century to the boatyard of the same name. The building where the work goes on has the look of an Alpine hut, for two reasons: firstly both the carpenters and the wood traditio­ nally came from the mountains of Cadore; and se­ condly the slope of the boatyard and the roof which covers it was useful in case of rain, as well as a pla­ ce to store tools. Other gondola builders still in bu­

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siness after centuries include Domenico Tramontin & Figli, whose boatyard in the Ognissanti area is worth a visit ­ they have been building gondolas since 1884.

Among the many curiosities on display is the collection of blades, tools, oarlocks and other ob­ jects which once belonged to famous owners, inclu­ ding the house of Savoy. In a few minutes we arrive at the Fondamenta delle Zattere, which runs along the Giudecca canal and is beloved by Vene­ tians for strolling, especially on sunny days and summer evenings.

The Island of Giudecca is also part of Dorsodu­

P i e ri n o S a n t i

ro, and is linked to the Zattere once a year by a pontoon bridge on the occasion of the Redentore Festival (Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st July 2013).

Two boatyards are still in operation on the Giu­ decca: one is the Crea squero, owned by Gianfranco Vianello (aka Crea), a champion rower; his is the only squero which supplies gondolas complete with all the accessories including oarlocks and oars.

The other is the squero of Costantini­Dei Rossi, who, although young, is a faithful follower of the traditional methods and the only one, apart from Crea, producing other types of vessels as well as gondolas.

Daniela Zanuco

Roberto D'Agostino

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Valentina Jacob

Useful addresses Squero San Trovaso Campo San Trovaso 1097 Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.squerosantrovaso.com Squero Domenico Tramontin & Figli Campiello dei Morti 1542 Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.tramontingondole.it Squero Crea Fondamenta San Giacomo 212 Giudecca Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.cantierenauticocrea.com Squero Dei Rossi Roberto Giudecca 866/A Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.costruzionegondoledeirossi.it Andrea Zaffaroni

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T h e s t o n e o f Ve n i c e

Venetian curiosities

Fabrizio Olivetti

ancient crafts

El Calegher H o rs e s i n th e c i t y Piazza San Marco was completely unsealed until 1267. There were few somewhat low bridges, made of wood and without any steps; a small area of Venice called To­ letta owes its name to an unstea­ dy wooden board that jutted out from the bridge which had no steps, allowing horses to move freely around the city. The aristo­ crats would gather at the seat of the Grand Councel with their horses, called by the sound of one of the bells from the Campanile di San Marco belltower, known as Trotéra.

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The shoemaking profession The school headquarters was in Venice has a long history. intially located in Sestiere di San Marco but moved to A coorporation of shoema­ Campo San Tomà, in the kers (calegheri) and Scuola dei calegheri in cobblers (zavateri) was the mid­15th century. founded in 1278 involving a differentiated use of work Atop the entrance way was a materials to avoid any pointed half­moon arch with competition between the two a sculpture by Pietro Lombardo professions. depicting San Marco hea­ This rule ignited discussion ling Aniano the cobbler who as to the degree of skill re­ in turn became a saint and quired to work one material became protector of shoe­ or the other. It involved an makers and whose relics are extremely prosperous art and preserved in the church of there were 340 workshops at Santa Maria della Carità. the end of the 18th century.

traditions

The salt route The event known as Rotta del Sale recalls the old trade vein that connects Cervia to Venice. The key figures of this extraordinary travelling sail area are the armed sail boats of the individual tenze (a shipyard or area where company vessels are built) of the Emilia­Roma­ gna coast joined in the Ma­ riegola delle Romagne.

Leading the parade of vessels was the admiral of the city of Cervia, the lancione Tre Fratelli.

Two particularly special mo­ ments are the departure from Vervia and the instance

of the ceremony of delivery of the salt at Venice.

Retracing an ancient Adriatic route recalls centuries of hi­ story that tell of a powerful city, Venice, and its bond wi­ th Cervia.

The first records of the trade relations between Cervia, rich in salt, and Veni­ ce, which had great demand for the so­called white gold, date back to 1281. The festival of salute of the historic fleet features extremely entertai­ ning and intriguing music and performances.

The event takes place on Wednesday 17th of July.

T h e l a g o o n c a p i ta l This small building was intended to contain and protect a holy ima­ ge that is often positioned on top of a pole or an bricola (a structure formed by two or more large wooden poles tied together and placed in water, used to indi­ cate the waterways of the Venice laguna.) The fishing islands such as Burano, Pellestrina, and Chioggia have rites dedicated to fish and maritime tradi­ tions.

R i a l to m a rket

Comune di Cervia

The two “hot” points of the market of Rialto, Campo de la Pescaria and Campo de l’Erbaria, are the perfect place to taste the city’s way of life and are also ideal for finding the best fresh fish of the Adriatic Sea, fruit, vegetables of the season and the coloured flowers of Venice.

An early morning visit to the Rialto market is recommended where you can roam freely among the stalls.

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Marica Rossi

V足Venezia magazine year 1, issue 2, July/August 2013 Bi足monthly online magazine by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice Contacts: turismosostenibile@comune.venezia.it

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