Venezia
magazine
year 1, issue 2 july – augst 2013
eventi mostre itinerari
Venetian festivals
R Redeen ntto oree'ss F Feessttiivaall Exhibitions in Venice
V Veedo ovvaa Tinttorreetttto o Music venues
E Echhooeess oof Veerddii Rendezvous with art
M Manet.. R Retuurrn tto V Venice A n t o n i o G u e rra
Off course: the other Venice
S Slo ow D Do orrso odu uro o
where ggoonnddoollas arree bboorrn Cosimo Cardea
Fiorenzo De Luca
Manuel Casagra
e s r u o c f f O ice n e V f o p a m r e h t o e th Off course. The othe r map of Venice is a br and new map of the city, th e little vademecum of ideas an d advice for ecofriendly and fair trade holidays in th e la goon, away from the us ual tourist routes. It's mor e than just a map produced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the noprofit organisation AEres it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, mar kets, farms), and also sugges ts eco friendly and vegeta rian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, th e other islands of the lagoon an d the surrounding area. The whole publication can be cons ulted be fore you set out, on th e portal of Municipality of Venice Tourism
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www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta
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Rendezvous with art Manet. Return to Venice
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Exhibitions in Venice
SUMMARY
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Venetian festivals The Redentore's festival
14
See you in Venice notice of current events
16
Verdi & Wagner 2013 Echoes of Verdi
14
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20
Off course: the other Venice Slow Dorsoduro
26
The stones of Venice venetian curiosities, traditions and ancient crafts
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Re n d e z vo u s w i th a r t
Manet. Retu rn to Venice
T
he magnificent halls of the Doge's Palace are the venue for the Manet exhibition until 18th August 2013. Return to Venice consists of around eighty paintings, drawings and engravings, exhibited with the special collaboration of the MusÊe D’Orsay in Paris. The exhibition aims to highlight the cultural models which inspired the great painter, whose style until now was considered almost exclusively to be influenced by Spanish painting, but was actually quite close to Italian Renaissance painting. This is demonstrated by the Venice exhibition, where visitors can admire, alongside his masterpieces, some exceptional works
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inspired by the grand tableaus of sixteenth Italy, which remains imbued in his work. The century Venetian art by Titian, Tintoretto exhibition is billed as a true event: never be and Lotto in particular. fore has Manet's painting been presented in Manet's passion for Italian Renaissance art is such a significant light in Italy, and this fully explored in the Venice exhibition, which particular aspect of his art has never been finally casts light on his close relationship wi exposed to critical view. th Italy and the city of the lagoon. Neither is Italy absent from those of Manet's T h e ex h i b i t works most associated with Spain: his reli gious paintings owe as much to Titan and The exhibition is divided into 9 sections whi Andrea del Sarto as to El Greco and Veláz ch examine the creative development of Ma quez. His silent still lifes, behind their faith net, who was beloved by the Impressionists ful adherence to the Dutch formula, hold but ever distant from them in terms of style many surprises which are not only remini and composition. Perhaps the most surprising scent of Nordic tradition room is the se but also seem to take cond, where two I n fo rm a t i o n inspiration from a chro large oil canvases until 1st September 2013 matic and constructive hang side by side: Doge's Palace, Venice vigour which is wholly Titian's "Venus of Opening times Italian. When the artist Urbino" (1538) 9.00 19.00 Sunday to Thursday turns definitively to and Manet's 9.00 20.00 Friday and Saturday "modern" Paris, his "Olympia" (1863). (ticket office closes one hour earlier) painting does not leave Manet visited Italy www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it behind the memory of on three occa
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sions; and on a visit to Florence in 1857 he made a copy of the Venus, which he reflected upon and reworked (several sketches are on display), gra dually making it his own. Six years later, Olympia would be born from this creative pro cess, and presented in the 1865 Salon, where it was greeted with cries of scandal and caused heated debate. The third room is also highly si gnificant, with still lifes including "Stem of white peonies and secateurs", "Eel and red mullet", "Asparagus" and "Lemon". Although Manet pre ferred historical painting, with its structured composition and figures, he also painted a large number of still lifes, an effective method of ensu ring a little critical consensus. Behind their faith fulness to the Dutch style, these hold many surprises which are not only reminiscent of Nordic tradition but also seem to take inspi ration from a chromatic and constructive vigour which is wholly Italian. The only cause for regret among the exhibition's numerous original works is the absence of “Déjeuner Sur L’Herbe” (1863), as inheritance conditions prevent the painting leaving Paris and the Musée d'Orsay.
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E x h i b i t i o n s i n Ve n i c e
QueriniStampaliaMuseum
Vedova Tintoretto
RoyLichtensteinsculptor
Until 3rd November 2013
Until 24th November 2013
Tuesday to Sunday 1018. Closed Monday.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova
This historic residence is home to one of the
The Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which houses
Exhibition of sculpture dedicated to Lichtenstein,
richest art collections in Venice, with over
a magnificent series of largescale paintings by
one of the major players in American pop art.
four hundred paintings by Venetian, Italian
Tintoretto, opens its doors for the first time to
www.fondazionevedova.org
and Flemish artists from the 14th to the
modern art with this project: Contemporary
19th century.
San Rocco: in dialogue with Tintoretto.
www.querinistampalia.org
www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it
...Socalled Carnivals...
Jacob Hashimoto: Gas Giant Until 1st September 2013 Fondazione Querini Stampalia
Until 24th November 2013
A sensory experience where time and space
Fondazione Emilio e Annabianca Vedova
coordinates become confused and the visi
Exhibition Hall
tor is amazed and awestruck
...Socalled Carnivals... assembles works
www.querinistampalia.org
completed between 1977 and 1991, resulting in an unusual exhibition within Emilio Ve
Prima Materia
dova's repertoire.
Until 31st December 2013
www.fondazionevedova.org
Punta della Dogana
Ana Tzarev. Love & Peace
The exhibition gathers around 80 works
Until 24th November 2013
artists from the Pinault Collection.
Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art
www.palazzograssi.it
Artist Ana Tzarev presents her global
dating from 1960 to the present day, by
campaign Love & Peace: an enormous
Treasures of the ghetto
sculpture of a flower which sprouts in the
Until 29th September 2013
centre
Galleria Franchetti Ca' d'Oro
of
a
collection
of
her
flower
paintings.
A project steeped in significance for the
www.veneziaupt.org
500year history of the Hebrew Community
in Venice: the restoration of liturgical objects
Doge's Palace
exquisitely wrought in gold and silver by Ve
The exhibition unveils the most recent
netian craftsmen between the 17th and 20th
creative destinations of this Venetian artist
centuries, saved from the ravages of Nazism.
who is tireless in his research into the mate
www.jvenice.org
rials, shapes and expressive potential of painting, graphics and sculpture.
55th Biennale d'arte Until 24th November 2013
palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
Various venues in Venice
Outsider in a box
There will be 48 events associated with the 55th
Until 5th September 2013
Biennale, entitled The Encyclopedic Palace. The
Jewish Museum
free events take place in numerous venues. A
Personal exhibition by Dwora Fried. Po
wide range of contributions and involvement to
werful and provocative, often ironic, Dwora
enrich and characterize the exhibition.
Fried's creations capture people, places and
www.labiennale.org
emotions under glass. Literally.
Eraldo Mauro Slides Until 1st December 2013
www.museoebraico.it
70th Film Festival 28th August 7th September 2013 Palazzo del Cinema Venice Lido Two new prizes in the Orizzonti section:
Murano Glass Museum
Maxim Kantor Atlantis
This art project is based on the evocative power
Until 15th September 2013
Special Award for innovative content. Official Ve
of colour perception and the common thread
Collegio Armeno Palazzo Zenobio
nice Classics section dedicated to restored pieces
which links alchemy, glass and the slide.
In the city of the lagoon the artist presents
and documentaries on the history of cinema.
www.museovetro.visitmuve.it
his personal vision of the current, umpteenth
www.labiennale.org
Carlo Guarienti Until 30th September 2013
Orizzonti prize for best director and Orizzonti
period of crisis in Western civilization. His works express the dynamic nature of hi storic cycles: the ocean and time are cyclical and follow no laws but their own. www.officinadellezattere.it
CLOSING Capital of Nowhere Until 10th July 2013
From fashion to perfume
Ca' Foscari Zattere Dorsoduro 1392 Collective exhibition of artists from Saint Pe
5th July 31st December 2015
tersburg. The works on show consider the
Palazzo Mocenigo
effects of industrialization, urbanization, re
In this space visitors can explore an unusual
volution,
exhibition dedicated entirely to the history of
construction.
scent and perfume.
www.unive.it
war,
construction
and
re
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it
Venice and Graphic art
Manet. Return to Venice Until 18th August 2013
13th July 15th September 2013
Doge's Palace
Ca' Pesaro Gallery of Modern Art
Exhibition of around eighty paintings, dra
The exhibition represents a cultural adventu
wings and engravings, with the special colla
re which locates Venice at the centre of Italy's
boration of the Musée D’Orsay in Paris.
most polemic current issues, laying the
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
ground for an important international debate. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
The Redentore's festival The "notte famosissima"
Ve n e t i a n f e s t i v a l s
T
he origins of this festival date back to the Republic of Venice, when in 1575足6 a terrible outbreak of plague killed almost 50,000 people. The Senate of the day made a solemn vow to God that if the epidemic ceased they would build a church dedicated to the Redentore (Saviour) on the Island of Giudecca. And so, when the plague finally finished in 1577, work on the church began, to a design by architect Andrea Palladio. The church was completed in 1592 by the architect Antonio Da Ponte.
T h e th a n k s g i v i n g b ri d ge During the two days of the festival a pontoon bridge connects the bank of the Zattere with the Island of Giudecca where the church stands. Pilgrims can cross the bridge in both directions, but is out of bounds during the firework display. Water traffic is possible via the bridge's only arch, but obviously large cruise ships cannot pass.
T h e fe s t i va l to d ay On the most famous night, as the Venetians call it, the popular festival is held in Saint Mark's Basin. The event is attended by thousands of people who watch the firework display from the banks and from hundreds of picturesque boats: the clean and tidy boats of "foreigners", and those of authentic Venetians, plus the fishing boats, where fish is cooked in a thousand different ways. The festival is extremely important to Venetians, who spend days decorating their boats with leafy branches and colourful paper lanterns lit by candles or fairy lights. While waiting for the fireworks there is singing, dancing and feasting on traditional dishes such as sweet and sour sardines, beans with onions, snails with garlic, pasta with beans and the ubiquitous watermelon. The firework display is truly unforgettable, enhanced by the spectacular setting of Saint Mark's Basin lit up by a thousand colours. Afterwards the boats gradually make their way out of the Bacino di San Marco: some people head for home, while others carry on partying on the
Davide Toffanin
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Davide Toffanin
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Lido beach until the magical sunrise. On Sunday the Regatta takes place on the Giudecca Canal, followed by the conclusion of the festivities with a Thanksgiving Mass celebrated in the church in the presence of the faithful and the city authorities. This year the Festival of the Redentore takes place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st July.
L o c a l fe s t i va l s Festival of Sant’Antonio 2013 4th 7th July Pellestrina Evening dancing, live shows and traditional food and drinks. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it Festival of Madonna di Marina 2013 5th 14th July Malamocco A packed programme of leisure and sports, but also cultural events linked to popular Veneto traditions. sites.google.com/site/comitatofestemalamoc co/madonnadimarina1 Festival of Madonna dell’Apparizione 2013 27th 28th July and 1st to 4th August Pellestrina Evening dancing and food and drinks stalls. Liturgical celebrations will take place during the festival. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it
Festival of Portosecco, Santo Stefano 2013 10th 15th August San Pietro in Volta At all these festivals traditional local products can be sampled at the food and drinks stalls. There will be plenty of dancing, sports events, children’s games and closing ceremonies with surprise firework displays. www.alessandroscarpamarta.it Feast of San Giacomo dell'Orio July 18th to 27th 2013 Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio Concerts, food stalls and a charity raffle make up this local fair. www.elforce.altervista.org Feast of Saint Roch August 16th 2013 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Morning Masses, Solemn Mass followed by Procession, at 6 pm. Display of the Treasure at the Scuola and ceremony of the Saint Roch Prize. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it
A n t o n i o G u e rra
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S e e y o u i n Ve n i c e
MUSIC Estate Village 2013
Otello
themes. Entry is free for children under 12
10th 14th July 2013
accompanied by parents, disabled people
Doge's Palace
and their carers. A reserved area is provided
1st June 31st July 2013
Opera in four acts, music by Giuseppe Verdi
within the space
Parco di S.Giuliano
Conductor: MyungWhun Chung, director:
www.liveinve.com
This year Estate (Summer) Village celebrates
Francesco Micheli Orchestra and Choir
its 15th edition
Teatro
www.villagestate.it
Veneziani.
19th July 31st August 2013
www.teatrolafenice.it
Courtyard of the Doge's Palace, 21.30
La
Fenice
and
Piccoli
Cantori
Amore e Musica
Requiem Mass
Music
by
Giuseppe
Verdi.
Conductor:
15th June 24th August 2013
VeneziaJazzFestival
MyungWhun Chung, choirmaster: Claudio
Blue Moon Beach Venice Lido
16th 31st July 2013
Marino Moretti. Orchestra and Choir Teatro
Summer season of concerts on the beach
Venice various venues
La Fenice.
FREE ENTRY
Keith Jarrett and Chick Corea 16th and 26th
www.teatrolafenice.it
July Venezia Jazz Festival is back at the lagoon
Venice Sherwood Festival
The sixth edition of the prestigious music
19th July 31st August 2013
event starts on 16th July and continues until
Parco di S.Giuliano
the 31st of the same month. Once again this
Every day from 19.00; Sundays from 17.00
year innumerable international music stars
Longrunning independent cultural festival
will take their place on the city's stages.
showcasing the best bands on the indie
www.venetojazz.com
music scene. An important part of the festival
taken
up
with
debates,
presentations
Island of San Giorgio Maggiore
themes. Entry is free for children under 12
Longrunning independent cultural festival
accompanied by parents, disabled people
showcasing the best bands on the indie
and their carers. A reserved area is provided
music scene. An important part of the
within the space
festival
www.sherwood.it
is
presentations
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is
L.I.VE in Venice
taken and
up
with
analysis
on
debates, cultural
and
analysis
on
cultural
( ) TeatrinodiPalazzoGrassi until 14 july 2013
The Teatrino begins its programme with a series of art films (Loris Gréaud, Philippe Parreno e Anri Sala), screened every day until 14th July. www.palazzograssi.it
FREE ENTRY
Ottonovecentostrumentale
A veritable factory of ideas around the
14th 23rd August 2013
possibilities of theatre: languages, codes,
San Nicoló Cloister, Venice Lido
techniques and technology, science and
Series of concerts organised by the Archivio
scenery are the guidelines for a systematic
Musicale Guido Alberto Fano to celebrate
examination of the form by maestros and
the tenth anniversary of its foundation.
leading figures from all over the world.
www.archiviofano.it
www.labiennale.org
THEATRE AND DANCE Biennale College Theatre
GUIDED TOURS
1st 11th August 2013 Venice Biennale
Palazzetto Bru Zane Visits: 14.30 in Italian; 15.00 in French; 15.30 in English. Every Thursday afternoon the Palazzetto Bru
FOR FAMILIES Reading in the garden Querini Stampalia Foundation, children from 3 to 6 Series presented by actress, di rector and reader Margherita Stevanato, organised by the Querini Stampalia Foundation to discover, or rediscover, the pleasure of reading. Free entry, first come first served. Booking necessary on 041 2711425. www.querinistampalia.org
Zane, a small gem of late 17th century Venetian architecture, opens its doors for free guided tours. A charming tour of a typical Venetian house boasting frescoes by Sebastiano Ricci and stuccoes by Abbondio Stazio. www.bruzane.com
The Pine forest of Alberoni August 18th 2013 10:30 am
TheancientvillageofMalamocco
Oasi WWF Dune degli Alberoni
July 21st and August 25th 2013 at 11:00 am
A guided tour to discover the flora and fauna
Malamocco Palazzo del Podesta
of Alberoni pine forest and dunes.
The oldest settlement on Lido island, and
www.dunealberoni.it
one of the oldest in the entire Venice Lagoon. www.dunealberoni.it Info: 3482686472
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Bicentenary Verdi Wagner 2013
Echoes of Verdi Discover Venice through its music Michele Crosera
Ve r d i & Wa g n e r
Adriano Bussi
T
Giovanni Boldini, 1886. Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna di Roma
he exploration of the Venetian places and events linked to Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner continues in the year of the double bicentenary of the two great composers, with a new itinerary which takes in palaces and theatres in the footsteps of Verdi, commemorating the Maestro's personal and artistic life. Where else to start our journey but La Fenice Theatre, one of the world's greatest opera venues, which has recently celebrated its 221st birthday (16th May 2013). The connection between La Fenice and Verdi is a deep足rooted one: no fewer than five premieres of works by the Swan of Busseto took place in the Venetian theatre, from Ernani to Attila, Rigoletto to La Traviata and Simon Boccanegra. In his later years, the composer responded to the affection shown him by the theatre management by sending autographed photos, which are now preserved in the Historic Archives of La Fenice Theatre, together with other Verdi足 related documents numbering more than two hundred. No excuse for not visiting the theatre, built in 1790, which stands opposite the Church of San Fantin in the sestiere of San Marco. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times over the centuries, the theatre was restored to its former splendour following the
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Michele Crosera
U s e f u l a d re s s e s Teatro La Fenice campo San Fantin, 1965 San Marco Venezia www.teatrolafenice.it www.festfenice.com Archivio storico della Fondazione Teatro La Fenice calle delle Colonne 4391/A San Marco Venezia www.archiviostoricolafenice.org
most recent fire in 1996: the guided tour tells the theatre's story from its founding to the present day, complete with secrets and glimpses behind the scenes. A short distance separates Campo San Fantin from Saint Mark's Square: a few minutes' walk up La Frezzaria brings us out in the square: here, next to the famous Basilica of Saint Mark, stands the Doge's Palace, masterpiece of Gothic art and symbolic Venetian site. The courtyard of the Palace will be the venue for three performances, on the 10th, 14th and 17th July, of Verdi's Otello, which has not been performed in Venice for over forty years. This event is a showpiece of the prestigious "Spirit of Music in Venice" festival which will entertain the Venetian public during the summer months. In this year's programme, La Fenice Theatre could not but put Verdi's bicentenary centre stage with a homage to the Maestro in full
Venetian flavour: by a new staging of the drama of Otello, in which the Venetian Moor loves, struggles and is destroyed by jealousy against a background of late fifteenth century Cyprus. On Friday 19th July, also in the courtyard of the Doge's Palace, La Fenice hosts a second homage to Giuseppe Verdi, with a performance of his Requiem Mass, conducted by MyungWhun Chung. Leaving Saint Mark's Square by the Napoleonic Wing, we follow the Salizada San Moisè, turning right into Calle del Ridotto, to reach Ca’ Giustinian, a lateGothic palace dating from 1471, overlooking the Bacino di San Marco. This palace opened as a hotel in 1820, and accommodated the Maestro during one of his stays in the city, as well as many other illustrious guests, including Theophile Gautier, William Turner and Marcel Proust. Today it is the seat of the Venice Biennale, with space for
Palazzo Ducale Piazza San Marco, 1 San Marco Venezia palazzoducale.visitmuve.it Ca’ Giustinian calle del Ridotto, 1364/A San Marco Venezia www.labiennale.org Palazzo Badoer Tiepolo corte Ca' Barozzi, 2159 San Marco Venezia Fondazione teatro la Fenice
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Michele Crosera
permanent exhibitions and services for the public. A little distance away, following Calle Larga XXII Marzo and turning right again, we come to Palazzo Badoer Tiepolo (today Hotel Westin Europa & Regina), where Verdi stayed in February 1851 to oversee the rehearsals of Rigoletto. This was also the favourite residence of Franz Liszt (1839) and Richard Wagner (September 1876余 April and September 1882). The Verdi summer season concludes with
performances of La Traviata at La Fenice Theatre from 30th August to 28th September, 160 years after its premiere, newly staged by Robert Carsen and with musical direction by Diego Matheuz. Some of the documents held in the theatre archives have overturned the popularly足held view that the premiere of La Traviata was a disaster: the opera was performed a total of nine times (when in those days three performances was considered a success), with ticket
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O f f c o u r s e : t h e o t h e r Ve n i c e
Slow Dorsoduro Where the gondolas are born
I
n Venice, Slow city par excellence, it is still pos sible to travel slowly, get a different perspective on the ci ty, experience its most secret places, learn their stories and their ancient traditions. Strolling in si lence through the streets, the voices and sounds of the residents evoke the poetry and the soul of a city built on an archipelago of little islands and canals, whose houses and palaces are reflected in the water: here the art of boatbuilding has always been fundamental, and even today the last workshops survive still, hidingplaces for the traditional vessels of life on the lagoon. The names of these boats are full of oldworld charm: pupparini, sandoli, sciopòni, burci, bra
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gozzi, peate, and of course the gondola, the unmistakable symbol of the lagoon city. It's just a few steps away from the runofthemill tourist trail, to find the master craftsmen who still pass the ancient art of gondola building down the gene rations. This itinerary can be done in a morning or an afternoon, and invites you to a step by step ex ploration of Dorsoduro, one of Venice's six se stieri, or districts. This area has always been the centre of the traditional skills of boatbuilding, and here we can find the last surviving "squeri", or ty pical yards where the oared craft are made. In a city where past and present live side by side, Dorsoduro too has a double soul: although it remains a quiet
The eco-friendly fair trade map of Venice Off course. The other map of Venice is a brand new map of the city, the little vademecum of ideas and advice for ecofriendly and fair trade holidays in the lagoon, away from the usual tourist routes. It's more than just a map produced by the Municipality of Venice in collaboration with the no profit organisation AEres it is full of recommendations for where to go for green and fair trade shopping (shops, markets, farms), and also suggests ecofriendly and vegetarian places to stay and eat in the centre of Venice, the other islands of the lagoon and the surrounding area. The whole publication can be consulted before you set out, on the Municipality of Venice tourism portal, www.veniceconnected.com/fuorirotta.
Luca Bianchetto Fabrizio Vendramin
area and one of the Venetians' favourite parts of the city, in recent years Dorsoduro has been trans formed into Venice's most arty and chic quarter. Between Punta della Dogana and San Trovaso is a concentration of art galleries and important museums, from the Gallerie dell’Accade mia to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Francois Pinault Centre of Contemporary Art. Near the Campo San Barnaba is the University area, bursting with little cafés, bars and restaurants. Campo Santa Margherita is a meeting place for stu dents and Venetians going about their daily busi ness, and where mums bring their children to play. From here we continue to the church of San Nicolo
dei Mendicoli, which according to tradition is one of the oldest in Venice, built in an area once occu pied by sailors and fishermen. We continue to wards San Sebastiano, a sixteenth century church embellished by frescoes and paintings by Paolo Ve ronese. We then join rio San Trovaso, home since the early seventeenth century to the boatyard of the same name. The building where the work goes on has the look of an Alpine hut, for two reasons: firstly both the carpenters and the wood traditio nally came from the mountains of Cadore; and se condly the slope of the boatyard and the roof which covers it was useful in case of rain, as well as a pla ce to store tools. Other gondola builders still in bu
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siness after centuries include Domenico Tramontin & Figli, whose boatyard in the Ognissanti area is worth a visit they have been building gondolas since 1884. Among the many curiosities on display is the collection of blades, tools, oarlocks and other ob jects which once belonged to famous owners, inclu ding the house of Savoy. In a few minutes we arrive at the Fondamenta delle Zattere, which runs along the Giudecca canal and is beloved by Vene tians for strolling, especially on sunny days and summer evenings. The Island of Giudecca is also part of Dorsodu
P i e ri n o S a n t i
ro, and is linked to the Zattere once a year by a pontoon bridge on the occasion of the Redentore Festival (Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st July 2013). Two boatyards are still in operation on the Giu decca: one is the Crea squero, owned by Gianfranco Vianello (aka Crea), a champion rower; his is the only squero which supplies gondolas complete with all the accessories including oarlocks and oars. The other is the squero of CostantiniDei Rossi, who, although young, is a faithful follower of the traditional methods and the only one, apart from Crea, producing other types of vessels as well as gondolas.
Daniela Zanuco
Roberto D'Agostino
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Valentina Jacob
Useful addresses Squero San Trovaso Campo San Trovaso 1097 Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.squerosantrovaso.com Squero Domenico Tramontin & Figli Campiello dei Morti 1542 Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.tramontingondole.it Squero Crea Fondamenta San Giacomo 212 Giudecca Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.cantierenauticocrea.com Squero Dei Rossi Roberto Giudecca 866/A Dorsoduro 足 Venezia www.costruzionegondoledeirossi.it Andrea Zaffaroni
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T h e s t o n e o f Ve n i c e
Venetian curiosities
Fabrizio Olivetti
ancient crafts
El Calegher H o rs e s i n th e c i t y Piazza San Marco was completely unsealed until 1267. There were few somewhat low bridges, made of wood and without any steps; a small area of Venice called To letta owes its name to an unstea dy wooden board that jutted out from the bridge which had no steps, allowing horses to move freely around the city. The aristo crats would gather at the seat of the Grand Councel with their horses, called by the sound of one of the bells from the Campanile di San Marco belltower, known as Trotéra.
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The shoemaking profession The school headquarters was in Venice has a long history. intially located in Sestiere di San Marco but moved to A coorporation of shoema Campo San Tomà, in the kers (calegheri) and Scuola dei calegheri in cobblers (zavateri) was the mid15th century. founded in 1278 involving a differentiated use of work Atop the entrance way was a materials to avoid any pointed halfmoon arch with competition between the two a sculpture by Pietro Lombardo professions. depicting San Marco hea This rule ignited discussion ling Aniano the cobbler who as to the degree of skill re in turn became a saint and quired to work one material became protector of shoe or the other. It involved an makers and whose relics are extremely prosperous art and preserved in the church of there were 340 workshops at Santa Maria della Carità. the end of the 18th century.
traditions
The salt route The event known as Rotta del Sale recalls the old trade vein that connects Cervia to Venice. The key figures of this extraordinary travelling sail area are the armed sail boats of the individual tenze (a shipyard or area where company vessels are built) of the EmiliaRoma gna coast joined in the Ma riegola delle Romagne. Leading the parade of vessels was the admiral of the city of Cervia, the lancione Tre Fratelli. Two particularly special mo ments are the departure from Vervia and the instance
of the ceremony of delivery of the salt at Venice. Retracing an ancient Adriatic route recalls centuries of hi story that tell of a powerful city, Venice, and its bond wi th Cervia. The first records of the trade relations between Cervia, rich in salt, and Veni ce, which had great demand for the socalled white gold, date back to 1281. The festival of salute of the historic fleet features extremely entertai ning and intriguing music and performances. The event takes place on Wednesday 17th of July.
T h e l a g o o n c a p i ta l This small building was intended to contain and protect a holy ima ge that is often positioned on top of a pole or an bricola (a structure formed by two or more large wooden poles tied together and placed in water, used to indi cate the waterways of the Venice laguna.) The fishing islands such as Burano, Pellestrina, and Chioggia have rites dedicated to fish and maritime tradi tions.
R i a l to m a rket
Comune di Cervia
The two “hot” points of the market of Rialto, Campo de la Pescaria and Campo de l’Erbaria, are the perfect place to taste the city’s way of life and are also ideal for finding the best fresh fish of the Adriatic Sea, fruit, vegetables of the season and the coloured flowers of Venice. An early morning visit to the Rialto market is recommended where you can roam freely among the stalls.
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Marica Rossi
V足Venezia magazine year 1, issue 2, July/August 2013 Bi足monthly online magazine by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice Contacts: turismosostenibile@comune.venezia.it
Assessorato al Turismo
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