大稻埕百年巡禮_大稻埕讀白

目錄 Contents

04

大稻埕歷史與地理位置 History & Location of Dadaocheng

12

大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

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夏末，慢遊大稻埕 （葉覓覓） Late summer, cruising in Dadaocheng

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（Yemimi）

到迪化街睡午覺 （陳慶祐） Taking a midday nap in Dihua Street （CHEN, Ching-Yu）

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相隔六十年的孩子 （王春子） A child sixty years ago （WANG, Chun-Tzu）

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和城市的美好記憶一起生活著… （吳東龍） Living with the beautiful memory of the city （WU, Tung-Lung）

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一些 記憶 猶存 （徐秋宜） Some memories are still there

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貴德街 （蕭永明） Kueite Street （Nakaaki Shaw）

（HSU, Chiu-Yi）

68

大稻埕漫步 Strolling in Dadaocheng

90

大稻埕百珍圖 The hundred goods of Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻埕老屋旅行幻想曲 ( 游智維） Fantasia of the journey to the old houses in Dadaocheng （YU, Chih-Wei）

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作者簡介 Author's Introduction

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大稻埕漫遊地圖 Map of Dadaocheng Taipei

The tour of 100-years-old Dadaocheng Taipei

大稻程歷史與地理位置 History & Location of Dadaocheng

大稻埕是台灣台北都市發展史上，最早發展的區域之 一。回顧大稻埕的發展，幾乎等同閱讀近代台北都市發 展脈絡。而今台北市推動都市再生計畫，在迪化街設立 了三個不同屬性的都市更新基地 URS，經由民間的參與 活化迪化街區生活型態，賦予傳統歷史街區新的想像。 總歸來說，大稻埕是北台灣可眼觀古蹟，品嚐古味，感 受台灣傳統與新生的好地方。 Dadaocheng is one of the first places to be developed according to Taipei’s history. When we look back on the rise of Dadaocheng, we find out that it is practically the same as reading Taipei’s developing context. Taipei city urban redevelopment office is now promoting the urban change over plan, setting three different types of urban redevelop sites URS. By the help of local folks’ participation, we hope to energize the lifestyle of the Dihua Street district, thus giving new inspirations to the traditional, historical block of Taipei. All in all, Dadaocheng is a nice place in northern Taiwan where you can see, taste, and feel both the traditional and newborn.

大稻埕歷史

萌芽 1851（咸豐元年）

The Sprout 1851 (Xianfeng first year)

開始了最早的店鋪。

The first store opened.

未開發 1709（康熙 48 年）

Undeveloped 1709 (Kangxi year 48)

漢人開始在此耕種，此時仍是人煙稀少的村落。

The Hans started to farm here where it was still a village of small population.

崛起 1853

The Rise 1853

艋舺的漳泉移民「頂下郊拼」械鬥激烈，同安人與漳 州人轉移到大稻埕地區， 沿淡水河從事貿易活動並發 展出商店街，興建霞海城隍廟。

Monga is where the intense fight between the Zhang and Quan immigrants broke out, the Tongan and Zhongzou people moved to the Dadaocheng district, and the trading business started to bloom along the Danshui river, developing into a trading business street, and thus begun the construction of the Xia Hai Cheng Huang temple.

雲集 1860 開放淡水流域為國際貿易港口，大稻埕碼頭因製茶葉 的興盛，引來大量洋商設立，出現大量本地富商與繁 榮買賣市場。

現代化 1885 臺灣設省，劉銘傳為首任巡撫，於大稻埕開始一連串 現代化建設，成立火車站，公家機關與學校林立，此 時為台灣第一大城。

近代殖民統治 1918 第一次世界大戰後，在日本殖民政府統治下，台灣知 識份子發起新文化運動，自大稻埕開始，出現許多文 化活動地點，並成立台灣文化協會。1920 日本實施行 政區域改制，將艋舺、大稻埕、大龍峒統稱臺北市， 但臺灣人依舊使用大稻埕指涉該區。

The Gathering 1860 The Danshui valley opened as an international port, the flourishing tea production from Dadaocheng attracted lots of foreign companies to set foot into Dadaocheng, resulting in an ever blooming trading market and rich local businesses.

Modernization 1885 Taiwan was made province, Liu Ming-Chuan, who was also made first governor, started to introduce series of modernized constructions including train stations, government agencies, and schools, making Dadaocheng the largest city during that time.

Recent Colonial Rule 1918 A fter WWI, Taiwan intellectuals started the new cultural movement under the rule of the Imperial Japan government. Starting at Dadaocheng, there begun lots of cultural activities and also established the Taiwan Cultural Association. 1920 Japan implemented the restriction of the administrative referring Monga, Dadaocheng, Talungtung all to Taipei city. Although the Taiwanese still uses the name Dadaocheng for this typical place.

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大稻埕歷史與地理位置 History & Location of Dadaocheng

南街殷賑 (1930) / 郭雪湖

臺北市立美術館典藏 7

大稻埕再生

都 市 再 生 前 進 基 地（URS - urban regeneration

The URS (Urban Regeneration Station), under the

station）2010 由臺北市政府主導的都市更新計畫在

dominant of the Taipei city government, has set

大稻埕區域就有三個駐點，URS44 大稻埕故事工坊；

three urban renewal project sites in Dadaocheng;

URS127 大稻埕都市再生工作坊；URS155 大稻埕城

the URS44 Dadaocheng story factory, URS127

市書院。由政府單位提供地點，鼓勵民間文藝單位進

Dadaocheng urban regeneration workshop, and the

駐，讓這些經歷過繁榮的舊空間再次發光發熱。URS

URS155 Dadaocheng city academy. The government

取諧音「yours」，開放給每一位市民，將創意因子

provides space which encourages literary and art

擴散到社區周邊，成為蘊涵文化創意的心靈城市。

units to move in, allowing these worn spaces to once again sparkle with the light of prosperity that was once lost. URS came from the word “yours”, which means to be opened freely to every citizen, spreading innovation seeds throughout the community, and becoming a spiritual city full of cultural inspirations.

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大稻埕歷史與地理位置 History & Location of Dadaocheng

9

松山區美仁段一小段 761-5 地號 臺北好好看 系列二 10

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

11

大稻程讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

邀請文字、生活敏感的藝文工作者，以圖文呈現大稻埕 的不同面相，記錄大稻埕百年來的生活切片。交織的現 代新生活，製作成電子書，向下扎根百年巡禮的深度。 We invited literal and life sensitive artisans to present us with different appearances of Dadaocheng using words and images, recording the bits of life within the hundred year of Dadaocheng. Intertwining with our modern life, filing it into an E-book which will root the depth of the hundredth year tour to its deepest.

夏末，慢遊大稻埕 文 / 葉覓覓

在一個明亮的夏末午後，我以一種古老的姿態來到大稻埕。我在鈕扣街下車， 沿著蜿蜒的巷弄走到迪化街，像一塊飄浮的拼圖，四處尋訪老舊的記憶碎片。穿 越一片片濃郁的藥材森林，穿越蜜餞、糖果、烏魚子和香菇構築的芬芳廊道，我 的心情也跟著新年快樂起來。走著走著，我感覺巴洛克洋房的眼睛正在頭頂凝視 我，作為最穩健最保庇的存在，它們和霞海城隍廟裡的諸神以及慈聖宮裡的媽祖 婆，早已懸空許久，看盡在地人們的生生滅滅、起起落落。 我逐漸飄離鬧街，來到寧靜的狹小巷道，猛一抬頭，瞥見一塊磨損的老式招 牌，上面寫著：「歡迎定做家庭奶罩」，在兩行字之間，有一張女人穿素白奶罩 的圖案，單純而不情色。像這樣沒有被框起來放大、躲在角落並被時間刮痕充滿 的小小物件，對我而言，遠比豔麗醒目的景點更迷人。那些晾在老房子外面的衣 服也是，它們被溫暖的陽光輕輕拍打著，拍出一種真摯的生活痕跡，拍出了我懷 念的八○年代，以及在島嶼南部一間木造平房度過的尪仔標童年。 後來，我經過一座嶄新的小公園，看見作詞人李臨秋獨自坐在裡面。他低著 頭專心寫字，一旁的石桌上刻著：「深夜燒酒夜來香」。我輕聲問他：「請問， 你家在哪裡？要怎麼去呢？」他沒有回答，似乎不想被打擾的樣子。於是，我也 找了個地方坐下來，掏出我的筆記本，心裡一邊彈琵琶，一邊寫下：「韻動的光影， 慈愛的榕樹。在大稻埕，一切都十分閒散美好，適合午睡。」

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

Late summer, cruising in Dadaocheng

by Yemimi

On a sunny afternoon, I came to Dadaocheng under an ancient form.

I got off at Button Road, followed the zigzag alleys to Dihua Road looking like a floating puzzle visiting the old, tattered shards of memory. When I passed through the rich forest of Chinese medicine, passed through the hall of fragrance made from candied fruits, candies, mullet roes, and mushrooms, my spirit became happier as the New Year came upon me.

Strolling along, I suddenly felt the architecture gazing down at me from above, along with the gods of Xia Hai City God Temple and goddess of Ci Sheng Temple, whose tranquil protection watches over human's life and death, rise and fall.

I eventually drifted off the lively alleyways and came across a silent narrow lane. Suddenly, I raised my head to see a piece of a worn and aged sign that says, "Homemade brassieres welcome for order." In between the lines of words is a picture of a woman wearing a white bra, simple yet clean. Small items that are covered with scratches from time, that aren't framed and magnified, are the things that really fascinate me, more than bright scenes. Not to mention the clothes hung outside, lightly beaten by the warm sunlight, becoming a trace of life, a time in the 80's that I cherish, and the cardboard game childhood I spent in a wooden single story house on the south of the island.

Afterwards, I came to a brand new park where I saw the song writer Lin-ciu Li sitting by himself, facing downwards focused on his writing. The

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

stone table beside him carved with "Midnight, warm liquor, Tuberose". I softly asked him, "Where is your home? How did you get there?" He didn't answer, seems like he doesn't want to be disturbed. I found a place to sit down, too, and took out my notebook. My heart plays Pipa. I write: "The swell of light and shadow. A lovely banyan. At Dadaocheng, everything is leisurely and beautiful. Just fit for an afternoon nap."

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相隔六十年的孩子 文 / 王春子

和隔壁阿嬤聊起彼此小時候的大稻埕，同樣的地點描述起來卻像是兩個截然 不同的城市。 阿嬤說，小時候那一帶房子很少，到處是農田的景色，每到稻子採收期，空 地上總是堆滿稻穀，一旦出大日頭，農民便七手八腳的把穀稻均勻的攤開，也因 為這樣的景色才會稱做大稻埕。而我卻除了食物什麼也想不起來了，印象中大稻 埕和食物是黏在一起密不可分，空氣中總是各種食物混雜的氣味。 小時候曾經很愛吃糖果，有一天阿爸說你這麼愛吃糖果阿…神秘兮兮的載我 到大稻埕，向店家買了一整袋米袋裝營業用的綜合糖果，那一大袋和我身高差不 多高，展開手還抱不住，像神木一樣粗的糖果袋就這樣被擺在客廳，「春子阿， 你愛吃就好好吃個夠吧！」阿爸笑著說。頭幾天我還興奮的嘴裡總含上一兩顆糖， 後來永遠吃不完的糖果卻越來越像惡夢般，每日望著客廳的那袋米袋，巴不得他 快點消失，也不記得最後到底吃了多久才結束這場吃糖果接力賽，現在回想起， 倒覺得上當了，何必這麼在意吃不完的糖果呢。 但大稻埕對阿嬤童年的回憶倒不僅是南北貨、糖果…，而是假日全家約會旅遊 的好地方。當年大稻埕有很多劇場，永樂座、第一劇場、新舞台…，假日時全家人 會做夥一起去看話劇或電影，雖然劇中的內容大多忘記，但仍深刻的記得，當年 每當舞台散場，如果是喜劇，回家的路上會一路踏著輕盈的腳步，如果是難過的 結局，便面帶淚水拿著手巾邊走邊擦，一整夜沈溺在劇中久久不能抽身。 我笑著想像當時劇場散戲後，大街上行人邊走邊擦眼淚的景象，再望著我懷 中的這個嬰兒，不知未來大稻埕對他而言又是怎樣的童年回憶。

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

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A child sixty years ago

by WANG, Chun-Tzu

When I chat about the childhood we had in Dadaocheng with my neighbor grandma, one place is suddenly two whole different worlds.

Grandma says when they were little, there were hardly any houses, everywhere is the scene of farmlands, and when there's a big sun up, the farmers would be busy and stirred trying to spread out the grains to dry, and so came the name Dadaocheng (Big grain courtyard). For me, I don’t remember anything besides the food in Dadaocheng, in my impression Dadaocheng and food were unable to part from one another, and the air would always be filled with the mixed scent of many different goods.

As a child I loved to eat sweets, and one day my father said since I like candies, he mysteriously drove me to Dadaocheng and bought a rice bag full of all kinds of candies, that big rice bag was almost as tall as me, and my arms were too short to go around it, just like that suddenly our living room was joined by a candy pack that stood there like a thousand year old tree. " Haruko, candy all you can eat!" my dad said laughing. The first few days I was all excited and always had a couple of candies in my mouth, but after a while, the everlasting mountain of candies was starting to become a nightmare, every time I see the rice bag of candies in our living room, I would wish it was long gone. I don’t even remember how long of a marathon it took us to finish the entire bag, recalling the incident, I feel kind of fooled, why would I care so much about the bag of cadies that was everlasting. In the other hand, Dadaocheng was not only north-southern

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

goods, candies to grandma, but a great place for a family vacation and dating spot. Back then Dadaocheng had many theaters, Paradise tower, First theater, New stage‌etc, on the weekends families would go there to see dramas or movies together, although they hardly remember the contents of the movies, but they will never forget every time when the movie ends and people start to depart, if it was a comedy, the footsteps back home will be swift and light, while if it had a sad ending, there would be handkerchiefs wiping off the tears on the way back home, indulging in the story, unable to withdraw from it.

I laughed while imagining the scene where the people were wiping their tears while walking home after the theater closes, I then turned back to the baby I hold in my arms, wondering what Dadaocheng will represent for his childhood in the future.

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松山區美仁段一小段 761-5 地號 臺北好好看 系列二 22

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

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松山區美仁段一小段 761-5 地號 臺北好好看 24

系列二

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

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一些 記憶 猶存 文 / 徐秋宜

在城市裡，人們以有效率留軌跡；在布市塔城街大稻埕，卻可以把我們留在 時間記憶最深處。 稍前幾步，仿若時空穿梭的無框門，眼前材料雜貨〈小小不起眼〉的百象， 有如泛舊的照片，只稍稍補上些微鮮明色彩，它依然喚起有關於幼時躲在媽媽裁 床底下，進入與弟弟微不足道的撕剪雜誌，玩著紙娃娃遊戲的嗅覺與視覺交錯的 超現實空間。 僅僅是幼時記憶，那某個賣副料擺設零亂或擺放許久沾塵的零碼布的小舖； 或者是初出道時，在此尋找小貨布、各種釦飾、物件的那些片片段段延伸記憶與 想像，都成為自己一些猶存記憶的線索。 幾年過了，即使像習慣時尚的快速節奏，仍然會在經意與刻意之間無所謂地， 進來大稻埕塔城街布市，讀著那些，各類湧進的尋寶者，沒有過多流行語彙，無 法說得太精確的內容， 但總有各種故事可發生。 在生活的旅途中，踏進這一區，時間和空間是無所謂的，我希望這樣地 保留著。

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

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Some memories are still there

by HSU, Chiu-Yi

Few steps forward, like passing through a time door without frames, the many <Small and inconspicuous> materials and groceries before my eyes are like old pictures, only needs to slightly patch up a few bright colors, and it will still call upon the childhood of me hiding below mom's cutting table, entering the surreal space interlocked between smell and visual where I am negligibly cutting magazines with my younger brother and playing paper doll games.

Merely a memory from my childhood, the unorganized store that sells vice materials and places small pieces of cloth that are covered with dust; or it was the pieces and pieces of memory and imagination when I first debuted and came here to look for pieces of cloth, every kind of clasps, objects, are all some of the clues to my existing memory.

Some years has passed, even if I got used to the fast pace of vogue, I sometimes still come to Dadaocheng, Tacheng Street cloth market aware or unaware, reading contents that swarm with all kinds of treasure hunters, doesn’t have too many popular phrases, and can't be spoken too accurately, but there is always the possibility of all kinds of stories.

Throughout the journey of life, while entering this district, time and space is meaningless, I wish it stays this way forever.

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

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臺北好好看 系列二 中山區長春段三小段 129-1 地號 30

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

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到迪化街睡午覺 文 / 陳慶祐

那個有陽光的午后，我穿過幽暗的長屋，走過透光的天井，順著階級而上，走 進他的房間。我還記得翻飛的窗簾、他的單人床，那一年，我們十七歲。 他是個轉學生，轉進班上的時候，我們特別聊得來，也因為他，我的台北地圖 延展開來了 ---- 我是東區的孩子，生活在高樓大廈裡；他是西區的孩子，居住在舊 長屋中。 有那麼一回， 他說他想回家睡個午覺再出去玩，就騎車載我來到一條彷如電影 場景的街 。這些樓房有著雕欄玉砌的門面，只是破落與繁華比鄰而居，許多荒了的 樓，傾圮一地。 「你不知道迪化街嗎？」他問。 我搖了搖頭。我瞭解西門町、熟悉東區，卻不知道這條街的美麗與哀愁。 「等我睡醒再告訴你。」他說。 然後時光荏苒，我擺了擺手與青春道別離，成了一位媒體工作者，因為採訪， 愈來愈認識迪化街，這才明瞭，當年的我睡在一條怎樣的街道上。 說起迪化街與大稻埕，得從一場爭戰開始。19 世紀初期，中國沿海居民為了生 活，渡過黑水溝（台灣海峽）來到台灣；當初台北最繁華的地方是艋舺（今萬華）， 各路人馬都希望在那裡有一席之地。只是，艋舺人多是非也多，不同村莊的人常會 為了一言不合打起來。 西元 1853 年，爆發「頂下郊拼」；頂郊人（晉江、惠安、南安）與下郊人（安 徽、同安）發生械鬥，被打敗的同安人護著飄揚過海來的城隍爺，一起離開艋舺， 往大龍峒去。 只是，一行人經到大稻埕時，城隍爺就不走了，示意同安人在此定居。這裡原

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大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

先只是曬穀的大廣場，沒有半點繁華，全憑同安人赤手空拳，利用臨近淡水河的 有利條件，將這裡建設成港埠。 那尊八寸高的城隍爺，被供奉在迪化街中心的霞海城隍廟裡，這幢廟宇蓋得 像把菜刀，正殿旁只有西廡，據說也是為了「抗煞」，讓流離失所的同安人可以 在這裡安居樂業。因為霞海城隍廟蓋在雞母穴上，可以聚財，才讓迪化街開始聚 攏人氣。 後來，艋舺河沙淤塞嚴重，許多往來的商船改從大稻埕停泊，整個台北的鬧 區就翻轉來到這裡。耆老們說，最熱鬧的時候，迪化街摩肩接踵都是人，要擠進 來都很困難。 城市的歷史教育了我們，所有繁華到了鼎盛都要落下的。但這條街就是不一 樣，隨著碼頭的沒落，以及台北鬧區的東移，大稻埕像是被真空處理 ---- 許多的 店家、街景，都停留在最繁盛的那一刻，然後日復一日、年復一年，堅持舊時代 風情。這裡的人情味很濃厚，整條街市都住著雞犬相聞的鄰居；小吃也都是重口味， 好像不這樣就不叫生活。 老街不老，就像美人遲暮，依然風韻猶存，日本人稱這樣的老街為「下町」， 不只收藏了幾代人的家族史，更是整座城市的原鄉；一如王謝堂前燕，即使已成 尋常百姓家，卻依然有著風骨。 再次走在迪化街上，我記起了那個晌午的青春光影，卻記不起後來我們去哪 裡玩了，我只記得和那個同學漸漸不再聯繫了，就像生命裡許多匆促經過的風景。 還好這條老街依然硬朗，像一只又一只的藥材櫃子，負責收藏老台北人的美好時 光 ---- 而我知道，屬於我的那只，被輕輕地打開、又悄悄闔上了。

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Taking a midday nap in Dihua Street

by CHEN, Ching Yu

There was sunlight during that afternoon, I passed through a dim longhouse, a patio with light pouring in, followed the stairs upward, and walked into his room. I still remember the flip flopping curtains, his single bed, that year, we were both seventeen.

He was a transfer student, when he was just transferred to my class, we especially enjoy talking to one another, and because of him, my map of Taipei started to expend---I was a kid from the eastern district, who lived in a skyscraper; he was a kid from the western district, who lived in an old longhouse.

One time, he said he wanted to go home and take a nap before going out to play, so he drove me to a street just like a scene from a movie. Some of the buildings had sculpted columns and jay stairs, only thing was that the worn-out and beautiful were side by side, many desolated buildings scattered across the place.

"You haven’t heard of Dihua Street?" he asked.

I shook my head. I knew Xinmending and was familiar with the eastern district, but did not know the beauty or sorrow this street bears.

"I'll tell you after I wake up." he said.

Time flies fast, and before long I was waving goodbye to my youth, became a media worker, and because of the interviews, I became more and more familiar with Dihua Street, then it became clear to me what it

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was that I slept on years ago.

To bring up Dihua Street and Dadaocheng, it has to start with the beginning of a big fight. In the early 19th century, the people along the east coast of China came across the Black Ditch ( Taiwan Strait ) to Taiwan for a living; at that time Taipei's most bustle area was Monga ( now Wanhua ), various people wanted a place of their own there. Only thing was, Monga was a place of great population and trouble, different villages often start fights just for small arguments.

In the year 1853, there was the intense fight call the "Top and bottom suburb fight" between the Top suburb people (Jinjiang, Wai, Nam) and the bottom suburb people (Anhui, Tongan), the defeated Tongan people protected the Cheng Huang Lord that came across the sea towards Talungtung, away from Monga.

But when they arrived at Dadaocheng, Cheng Huang Lord stopped and did not move any further, motioning the Tongan people to settle here. It was only used as a plaza for drying wheat crops then, and was of no prosperity, it all came down to the Tongan people to use the favorable condition of being close to the Tamsui River to build this place by hand into a harbor.

The eight inch statue of Cheng Huang Lord was worshiped in Xia Hai Cheng Huang temple in the center of Dihua Street, and this particular

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temple was built like a knife, the main hall has only a west veranda, which is said to be used to fight against evil, providing a quiet and peaceful place for the homeless Tongan people to rest and work. Because of the certain place Xia Hai Cheng Huang temple was built on enriches its wealth, causing the growing popularity in Dihua Street.

Later on, when the Monga river sand blockage was becoming a big problem, many of the merchants' boats were starting to anchor at the Dadaocheng harbor, resulting in overturning the most bustle place in Taipei. The elders say that at the most lively moment, Dihua Street was crowded with people shoulder against shoulder and was even very difficult to squeeze in.

The history of cities teaches us, every bloom have its end. But this street is just different from the others, with the downfall of the harbor, and the east going downtown, Dadaocheng seemed to be vacuumed---lots of the stores, street scenery are all still standing as if they were frozen in the time when they were still blooming, day after day, year after year, insisting on staying the same way as before. The humanity here is very strong, the whole street is packed with gossiping neighbors; the street vendor snacks are also strong in flavor, like telling us that life just isn't what it is without them.

The old street doesn’t get old, it just sets late like the beautiful ones, and still maintains its charm, Japanese call this old place "Shitamachi",

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not only had it collected many generations of family history, it is also the originality of the entire city; although the swallows of the Wang and Hiseh family has flown down to the common folks, it still embraces its strength of a character within.

Strolling once again in Dihua Street, I came to remember the teen era on that noon, but can't quite remember where we went to play, only to recall that I was gradually lost in touch with my transfer classmate, like the many scenes that hastily pass by throughout life. The good thing is this old street is still tough, like a medicine cabinet after another, responsible for treasuring the good times of the old Taipei people---and I know, the one that belonged to me had lightly been opened, and quietly closed again.

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臺北好好看 系列二 中山區長春段三小段 129-1 地號 38

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

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和城市的美好記憶一起生活著… 文 / 吳東龍

儘管在大同區度過漫漫大學時光，事隔多年，透過一次城市巡禮，則又另個 角度來看看這個我常久而來居住的城市，這個豐富熱鬧城市裡的一條街，街裡的 文化即生活，我看著遠方一如往昔的飛機起降，在大稻埕商區裡，身邊已是一幅 截然不同的風景了。 迪化街，有沒有來過？ 通常只有在變成「年貨大街」或是碼頭施放煙火時，才比較容易被各方關注， 然而所關注的，多是曇花一現的表層燦爛。在近午的週末早晨，我徒步走過，我 捕捉到許多鮮少被聚焦的城市光景，而大稻埕百年的過去、現在與未來，透過這 條大街緊密串聯著，一條街的夾道建築，正在逐步進行建築再造，新的、舊的、 混搭的、仿古的，各有不同容貌姿態，我抬頭看的不只是洋樓式的、閩南式、現 代主義、或者是巴洛克式的浮雕立面等建築形式，每戶的窗櫺、磚瓦其形色各異 且充滿變幻令人驚喜，似乎每個空間表情都在訴說著各自獨特的身世，繁華，或 是曾經的繁華，每扇窗每道門戶打開來，都會飛出是好幾代的故事，就像每戶每 家的房屋形式一樣深長透不到底般地讓人想去窺探。 建築形式總是反映著當時人們所處的環境與心理狀態，有花台的、種植垂掛 著花卉的，歐風燈具風格的選擇，都展現出居住者對於生活的品味與喜好，甚至 意味是主人的另一件衣服，告訴左鄰右舍，或是經過的路人，自我介紹般的昂首 挺立著。至於店家，則又是呈現另外一種迥異的美學風格了。

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販售著來自南北乾貨、高級食材、藥材，開店那刻起，小自魷魚絲、大到魚 翅禮盒，都被一絲不苟地以一種獨特美學紛呈，來呈現一種洋溢豐富新鮮的興味， 這種豐盛的味覺美感，彷彿聞到香氣，至於這樣的型塑結果，更該是長年累積下 來的經驗所傳達的街道樣貌吧！ 走著看著，有宗教信仰的裊裊香煙、有碼頭、有街市、有布市，小吃，新舊混 搭的美學，就是現在，可以將這些獨特的都會景片收入記憶，中午，咀嚼著波麗露 的牛排，而我們，正學著和美好記憶共同生活著，為下個世代創造記憶。

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Living with the beautiful memory of the city

by WU, Tung-Lung

Despite the college era I've spent in the Tatung district, after many years, by a city tour, I had a chance to look back at this city where I have long lived in another perspective, a street within this rich and lively city, and the culture within the street is life, I look far away to the airplanes rising and landing as always, in the Dadaocheng marketplace, I'm already surrounded by whole new scenes.

Normally shall it turn into "New year street" or when the pier is setting off fireworks will it get more attention, but what gets attention is only the brilliant exterior that is short-lived. On a weekend morning near noon, I walked by, catching glimpse of city sights that are rarely focused, though the past 100 years of Dadaocheng, present and future, is all linked inseparable by this big street, a street filled with lines of buildings, step by step rebuilding, new ones, old ones, mixed ones, antiques, all have different kinds of appearances, I raised my head and saw not only western-style, Fujian style, modernism, or the facade relief of Baroque, the wood in every window, bricks and tiles are in all kinds of colors and shapes, full of changes and surprises, it seems that the expression of every space is telling it's one and only life, either flourishing, or had flourished once before, every door and window would open wide, and out will fly the stories of past generations, like all the houses, unable to see the depth of its style and yet so alluring people just can't stop peeping into it.

The style of the architecture always reflects the people's environment

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and state of mind during that certain time, some have a flower balcony, flowers that hang vertically, or the choice of European stylish lamps all express the residents' taste and interest toward life, it also represents as one of the clothes the owner has, telling left and right neighbors, or the people just passing by, standing upright as if introducing itself to others.

Stores, on the other hand, is a whole different aesthetics style.

Selling dry goods from south and north, top ingredients, medicines, from second the store opens, small to squid shreds, big to fish fin gifts, are all presented by a unique atmosphere that is generous and informal, showing the goods in a variety and fresh way, this kind of rich sense aesthetic makes as though you can smell the aroma, and the experience that has accumulated from a long time ago is probably what shaped the street to become what it is.

Walking and looking, there is the uprising smoke of religious beliefs, the pier, the street markets, the cloth stores, street vendors, ar tistic combination of old and new, it is this instant, we can collect these special urban sceneries into our memory, midday, chewing on a Bolero steak, and us, learning about the ways to live with our beautiful memories, creating more memories for the next generation.

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中山區長春段三小段 129-1 地號 臺北好好看 系列二 49

貴德街 文 / 蕭永明

貴德街的 " 靜 " 像是一場舞會後的餘燼，遲來的賓客錯過了舞會的時間，只 是跟著長老教會的風琴聲送走喧鬧的茉莉花香。來的太遲，牌坊下是幾代後不復 記憶的早安聲，商人打開大門、鄰居騎著單車在街弄穿梭，開始出售過去活脫脫 的生活細節。這兒銀貨兩訖，來訪的人們故得豁出時間、慢慢拼貼起舞會所散落 一地的的搓茶聲響、小販吆喝聲與陳年老洋樓的況味，砌高的長廊像是的洋話劇 的舞台，上演茶巷間的大城小事，好生有趣。這是遲來的惋惜，惋惜生不逢時。 那副光景就藏匿在貴德街的磚瓦細縫之中，而試圖跟蹤牆後澎派萬千的算盤珠子 前進汽笛遠去的一方，跟隨著模糊且漸行漸遠的前人背影走失在貴德街的那一彼 端，醃漬在貴德街的時光與浪潮之下。

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Kueite Street

by Nakaaki Shaw

The silence of Kueite Street is like a scene from the ending of a ball, we are the travelers that missed the era of glory that it had once held, only by listening to the organ from the Presbyterian Church can we imagine what the crowded tea street would look like. We came too late, now only few generations of neighbors greet one another under the shop sign, some of the businesses start to open for sell, people buying tea and medicine passing through the street, thus starts their usual day, much time is needed to observe until you can find the slight glance of the bustle, glorious past and economic bloom, you can imagine the front steps of the hallway looking just like the stage from a drama, starting the act of people bustling right and left happily. These were the disappointment of unable to keep up with the period of time, disappointed for not been born at the right time. These sceneries are all engraved into the bricks and tiles within Kueite Street, try to go westward along with these traces of the past years and the kaka sound of abacus beads, follow the ancestors and live in the glorious, plentiful culture days of the Kueite Street.

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大稻埕老屋旅行幻想曲 文 / 游智維

離開常住了二十餘年的台南北上，若說台北城喜居之地，最愛大稻埕。因為在 這裡，我很容易想像人彷彿在台南生活的樣子。踩著緩慢的步履，被與府城有著同 樣的味道吸引，在百年島民生活記憶的累積中，醞釀出的氣息，帶點混亂而雜陳的 韻味，牽引著來到這裡。 河岸邊的街市隨著貿易而興起， 南北貨、種籽行、藥材鋪、百貨店、糕餅家、 西服社、茶莊等百業齊放，好不熱鬧。從低矮的紅磚平房換成了一棟接著一棟的和 洋混合建築，山牆上華麗的浮雕紋樣裝飾、料好味香的檜木窗戶與半透光老式毛玻 璃、少見的幾何線條的鐵窗花樣、停產絕版的拼貼磁磚，立面上氣勢磅礡的書法大 字掛上了店號。張揚地急著展示屬於那年頭的絕代風華，呈現出富賈一方的商場氣勢。 曾幾何時，繁華一時的好景隨著身旁的淡水河水般，時光流逝而過。老屋舍依 舊佇立原地，但人潮早已離開另覓他處。偶爾，永樂市場前的野戲登台一呼，熟悉 的群眾簇擁而來，隨著謝曲落幕隨即又瞬間散去。 破舊的長形街屋深不見底，中庭天井的陽光落下，我與它對話著。原來這段時 間是應和著環境歇息整理，當人們開始想起先人智慧的累積，憶起了許久遺忘的溫 暖過去，可以依稀又預見了大稻埕新的生命即將再起。 慢慢地，一些充滿著活力的新血注入，在這充滿歷史的場景中粉墨登場。有人 在巷弄裡開了小鋪，將旅程中攜回與生活中經歷的點點記憶，一樣樣地販售給下一 個喜愛的人。也有人在老藥房裡傳進出了咖啡香，在過去瀰漫著茶香的大街中，重 新給予了不同選項。從在地思考設計的創意商品、老城區中少見的藝術空間展覽、 舊醫院的社造空間，新的思維與動作為靜止不動的池水帶來了一圈圈美麗的漣漪。

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想像這樣的可能，在未來幾年實踐。殘破倒塌的紅磚街屋裡，古老的福建杉 木加入了新的鋼鐵骨架，共同支撐起了歷史的記憶。屋頂上覆著陽光穿透落下的 透明玻璃，台北天空的湛藍色引入室內，與遠處流動河景透過大片落地窗相互呼 應。推開沈重而質樸的鐵灰色老木門，便進入了風尚旅行新的祕密基地。至於布 滿外牆的藤蔓植物們，就尊重先來後到的道理讓它繼續攀爬吧。 期待有天，住進大稻埕。

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Fantasia of the journey to the old houses in Dadaocheng

by YU, Chih-Wei

Leaving Tainan, the place I lived for twenty years to the north, if you ask me where I would like to live in Taipei, it would be Dadaocheng with no doubt. Because in here, I can easily recall the life I had in Tainan.

Walking in slow steps, attracted by the scent similar to Tainan, which is a scent hatched within an accumulation of hundred years of the islanders' life memories, brings with it confusing and old flavors, drawing me to this place.

The riverside marketplace flourishes with the growth of trade, northsouthern goods, seed stores, pharmacies, general stores, cake and pastry stores, western suit stores, tea stores are all blooming with energy. From the low and short red brick houses to building after building of east and western combined architectures, the mountain wall's beautiful relief decorating patterns, the firm and good smell of the cypress wood on the windows and semi-translucent ground glass, rare geometric line patterns of metal window, out of print collage tiles, and the magnificent shop sign written in calligraphy. Anxious in making the peerless elegance that belonged in that era knowable to everyone, showing off the momentum of the marketplace.

When did it happen, when the glorious sight was washed away like the river water from the Tamsui River aside it. The old houses still stand on its land, but the crowds are already gone, seeking out another place.

Sometimes, the outdoor stage show will let out a shout in front of Yung Le

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market, and a familiar crowd would gather around it, yet to scatter away again when the curtains are lowered.

The broken and worn street longhouse goes deeper than the eye can see, below the patio sunshine comes rushing in, and I was chatting with it. I came to realize that this part of time is rested and arranged along with the surroundings, when people start to remember the ancestor's wisdom, remember the warm past that was forgotten long ago, we can dimly foresee the rebirth of Dadaocheng.

Slowly, there were some energetic new comers joining this group, debut in this scene full of histor y. Somebody opened a shop in the alleyways, preparing bits of memory from journeys and experiences of life to sell one by one to the next person that loves it. There is also someone spreading out the smell of coffee within an old pharmacy, giving the big street once filled with the aroma of tea a brand new choice. Designing creative products from local inspirations, the space for art exhibitions that is rarely seen in this part of the old city, the community building made from a retired hospital, new concepts and activity brought waves after waves of beautiful ripples to the still and motionless water pond.

Think about the possibilities that can be fulfilled in the next couple of years. In the broken and collapsed red brick building, the ancient Fujian fir joined by new metal frames, together supporting the memory of this history. The ceiling covered with the transparent glass that sends rays

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of sun shooting in, the blue of Taipei's sky also lead indoors, in harmony with the flowing river scene far away from the big French windows. Push away the heavy but simple old gray wooden door to enter the new secret hideout for a fashion vacation. As for the vine plants covered on the outside wall, first come, first serve and let it keep on climbing.

Looking forward to that day, when I move into Dadaocheng.

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作者 > 簡介

葉覓覓

東華大學創作與英語文學研究所、芝加哥藝術學院電影創作藝術碩士。 可以很宅也可以到處亂走。 喜歡迷路，也喜歡被安靜的星期天早晨激起。 對於生活的想法是：「把牠想成餅乾就好了，趁著掉到地上之前，趕快吃掉。」 曾經出版很黑的漆黑以及很愛車的越車越遠。

王春子

自由插畫家。老艋舺人，在夜市裡長大。現居八里半山腰，育有一狗一貓和一個 小孩。正努力和先生在混亂的育兒生活中繼續維持創作。

徐秋宜

徐秋宜，台灣在地人，美術系畢，留法（ENSAD）學服裝。喜歡跨領域。喜歡 對每一件事情開始重新定義，然後追求自在安心狀態的生活美學，它讓人懂得慢 慢過生活…。 我這樣生活的方式是我的創意歷程； 我幸福的感覺是我的作品風格。

陳慶祐

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陳慶祐，嘉義出生、台北成長，留戀舊歲月縫隙、也喜歡新時代轉角，漸漸成了 老台北人。目前在明報周刊工作，相遇一則又一則的他人故事。

Author > Introduction

Yemimi

Graduate institute of creative writing and English literature, Master degree in film-making Art Institute of Chicago.

Can be homey and can be striding everywhere.

Likes to get lost, and also aroused by the quiet Sunday morning.

Thoughts about life: "Think of it as a cookie, before it drops to the floor, eat it quick."

Published "The very dark pitch black", and "Car lovers gets pulled farthur"

Chun Tzu WANG

A free illustrator. Lived in Monga for many years and grew up in the night

Chiu Yi HSU

Taiwan local, graduated in arts, studied abroad in France (ENSAD) about fashion. Personally likes to participate in all kinds of fields. Loves to redefine everything from the beginning, afterwards seeking the free and peace state of lifestyle artistic, which makes people understand the ways of living leisurelyâ&#x20AC;Ś.

markets. Is currently living on the hillside of Bali, while trying to maintain her creation with her husband under the chaos of raising their children.

My lifestyle is my design course; my feeling of happiness is my style.

Ching Yu CHEN

Born in Chiayi, grew up in Taipei, longs in the gap throughout the old times, also loves the edges of new generations, gradually became an old Taipei person. Works in the Ming Pao daily news, where he comes across with other people's stories one after another.

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作者 > 簡介

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吳東龍

吳東龍，台灣新竹出生的六年級生，在學主修工業設計，嗜觀各種設計展覽。06 年起於台灣與中國出版個人全創作書籍《設計東京》系列，現為設計觀察作家、 書籍與視覺設計師，設計講堂規劃與講師，並參與展覽設計與書系規劃，文字與 設計作品見於兩岸三地，現為《東喜設計工作室》負責人，最近出版為《吳東龍 的東京設計生活 100+》。

蕭永明

打滾亞洲設計市場泥濘多年，現為設計、生活寫真家， 最愛以文字與影像為碎 嘴出口，為創意文化作一手裁切。

游智維

極度樂觀的宜蘭人，瘋狂築夢的射手座。1976 年生，創辦老房子事務所，把 保存老屋與傳統文化的每次遺憾變成可執行推動的運動，從台南謝宅到寶藏巖 青年會所。成立風尚旅行社，用旅行規劃服務安排體驗改變旅人的思考，從社 區營造、文化保存、農業發展、環境永續等議題，企圖由台灣小旅行帶動新生 活的改造計畫。

大稻埕讀白 Dadaocheng Monologues

Author > Introduction

Tung Lung WU

WU,Tung-Lung, born in Hsin Chu, Taiwan in the ROC 60's, majors in Industrial design, interested in all kinds of design exhibitions. 2006 published his personal creation book "Tokyo Design" series, now is a design observation writer, book and visual designer, design lecture planner and lecturer, also takes part in exhibition design and book series planning, literature and design works are seen in places across the Taiwan strait, now is in charge of "Tomic Design Studio", latest publish is "WU,Tung-Lung's Tokyo design life 100+"

Nakaaki SHAW

Rolled about in the mud of the Asian design market for years, now is a

Chih Wei YU

A positive Ilan folk, also a Sagittarius willing to dream no matter the cost. Born in 1976, founder of Old Houses Firm, turning the pity of the preservation of old houses and traditional culture into a movement that can be promoted, from Tainan's Hsieh residence to Treasure hill youth club. Founder of L-Instyle travel agency, makes use of planning travels to arrange experiences to change the mind of a traveler, from the construct of communities, development of agriculture, environment sustainability, attempting the transformation to drive new life with the help of small travels around Taiwan.

photographer for design and living, loves to garrulous about writing and images, and trim the design culture by his own hands.

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中山區長春段三小段 129-1 地號 臺北好好看 系列二 66

臺北好好看 Beautiful Taipei

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大稻埕漫步 Strolling in Dadaocheng

與世界設計大會的國際媒體和設計人士，在大稻埕進行 探險之旅與試吃大會，發掘老商號老店舖的珍奇異寶。 錄影紀錄國際人士對台灣傳統文物的觀點。 With us are the world design expo international media and designers, exploring and test tasting within Dadaocheng, digging through the old stores trying to find rare and strange things. We even recorded the foreigners' views and thoughts of Taiwan's traditional heritages.

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程漫步 大稻埕漫步 Explore Dadoacheng Dadaocheng Taipei

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大稻程百珍 The hundred goods of Dadaocheng

大稻埕百珍圖來自都市酵母 CITY YEAST 於 2011 年（民國 100 年） 所作的創作，由店家提供百樣藥材、南北貨，由攝影師集珍拍照，製 作實用珍藏百珍海報，並建立 QR code 快速網路連結，方便民眾搜尋 資料，延展百年巡禮的廣度。 Dadaocheng is one of the first places to be developed according to Taipei’s history. When we look back on the rise of Dadaocheng, we find out that it is practically the same as reading Taiwan Taipei’s developing context. We hope to energize the lifestyle of Dadaocheng, the nice and reserved place in northern Taiwan where you can see, taste, and feel both the traditional and newborn. So we Cooperating stores provide over a hundred kind of Chinese medicine, northsouthern goods, while photographers collect the goods and take pictures, not to mention making QR codes to cooperate with fast internet connection, making it easier for people to search for information, extending the reachable range of the hundredth year tour.

大稻埕探索地圖 Explore Map of Dadaocheng Taipei

主辦：臺北市都市更新處 企劃：都市酵母 策劃：周育如 . 陳冠蓉 視覺：嚴翎文 . 王奕晴 . 鄭詔蓉 百珍物件攝影：汪德範 大稻埕攝影：鄭詔蓉 . 葉盈 . 賴予淵 . 林季樺 臺北好好看系列二攝影：周育如 翻譯：楊光宇 協助：謝雪浩 . 趙澤曄 . 劉芝庭 . 陳冠宏 . 林凱葳 . 王盈穎 . 許修維 . 林冠君 . 陳尹之 . 許致瑋 . 林卓瑩 . 黃紹恆 . 葉覓覓 organizer：Urban Redevelopment Office Taipei City executive：CITY YEAST curator：agua. isa visual：iris. gooze. zona hundred goods photographer：wonderful dadaocheng photographer：zona. jo. yu yuan lai. ji hua lin taipei beautiful photographer：agua translation：rainbow participant： suet ho tse. zhaoze ye . tifi liu. henry chen. kaiwei lin. yin wang. xiuwei hsu . christopher lin. yaya chen. zhiwei hsu. drawing lin. mala huang. mimi ye