Canadian Jeweller Magazine - December 2013/January 2014 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

DECEMBER / JANUARY 2014 The independent voice for the industry since 1879

*exclusive photo coverage of

2013 Jewellers’ Ball

036. Awards of Excellence

Honouring the best in jewellery and watch innovation

050. CJ Interview

CEO of Davidoff carries on a tradition of excellence

064. Keeping Time How to maintain the ever-evolving mechanical watch

En Français

Kent + Dennis Heinrichs

054. Artisans de la bijouterie contemporaine, une vitrine à découvrir

TOP-NOTCH RETAILER

HEINRICHS JEWELLERY KNOWS THE FORMULA TO SUCCESS

044. SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows

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CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BOARD

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE

ESTABLISHED 1879

DECEMBER / JANUARY 2014 / VOL. 135 / NO. 01

Olivier Felicio

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1 Irina Lytchak

Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern / intern2@gorgmgo.com Kavita Sabharwal lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern / intern@gorgmgo.com Oksana Berda

Carol besler Consulting Editor Malcolm Brown Art Director / mbrown@thergmgroup.net Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Booth

Production Manager / production@rivegauchemedia.com

scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com CONTRIBUTORS Maria LauraCoordinator Barreto, Véronique Dubé, John Lamont, Kiriako Latridis, Duncan Parker, Elizabeth Valiaho Production | production@rivegauchemedia.com Kuldip Rupra, Bonnie Siegler

Moniruz Zaman of The Bullion Mart Inc. MONIRUZ ZAMAN has been the CEO of The Bullion Mart Inc., one of Canada’s most experienced wholesalers and retailers of precious metals, for over a decade. Before joining the company, Zaman worked as a newspaper editor. He says that the unpredictability of the markets can make operating in today’s precious metals industry very exciting. “I really enjoy the markets and if I am I’m managing the corporation, I’m managing the trade and the volatility that comes with that,” he says. “Watching this can be really exciting.”

Haigo Derian L’ORO Jewellery Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos SALES Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com email:charles lucy@thergmgroup.net John lamont, lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean Jeff Yamaguchi Advertising Sales sanderson, bonnie siegler.

lucy holden AssociAte publisher 6117 Jason Cawley tel . (416) 203-7900 Advertisingext. Sales email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com tel: 416-203-7900 x6134 email: jason@thergmgroup.net Jeff Yamaguchi ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston sAlesRoad, Suite 101 Karolann Cassman ADVertisiNG Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A1 tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 toll free: 1-877-547-2246 email karolann@gorgmgo.com email: cj@publicationpartners.com 60 Bloor HEAD OFFICE 345 Kingston road,Street suiteWest, 101 Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 Garth atkinson tel: 416-203-7900 pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1fax: 416-703-6392 toll free: 1-888-358-8186 x6117 toll free 1-877-547-2246

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

Cory Boisselle email cj@publicationpartners.com Chief Executive Officer / cory@thergmgroup.net Chief Marketing Officer / zinnia@thergmgroup.net Zinnia Crawford West, suite 1106 head Office Melanie Seth 60 bloor street Controller & Operations / finance@thergmgroup.net Erin Poredos toronto, ontario, CreativeM4W Business 3b8 Coordinator / erin@thergmgroup.net / taylor@thergmgroup.net Taylor Gregory tel . (416) 203-7900 Marketing Intern fax (416) 703-6392

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

2348 Lucerne, Suite 230,1507 Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 Montreal Office555 chabanel street West, suite Montreal Office tel: 514-381-5196 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2 fax: 514-381-6223

Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

tel .

Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group

Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email: Karat@Karatgroup.com www.karatimports.com

(514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 S U B S C R I P T I O N R AT E S

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Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include subscription Rates New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland,

CheckSevan ourTitizian Website for G.C. International Ltd. Monthly Specials! Moniruz Zaman Phone 1.800.663.6472

tel: 416-203-7900 x6122 email: jeff@thergmgroup.net

salEs

CiRCUlatiON publicAtioN pArtNers

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive

The Bullion Mart Inc.

Associate Publisher

Lucy Holden

tel: 416-203-7900 x6117 CONtRibUtORs chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving,

rate only, for sixForeign or more— subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription perbuyers’ year. Guide iscanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. unitedBulk states —(Canada one year, us$205. one year us$205 (subscriptions include sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 C H A N G E O F A D D R E S S per subscription per year (canada only).

email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 Change of address or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1

email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners,Published 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 by The RGM Group. Published Rive Gauche Media ii inc. Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product by Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising arethe those of the does advertiser and not the publisher. Thecontents publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. publisher not assume any of responsibility for the of any advertisement and any and all fault made of thein publisher and in such an event limit ofand thenot publisher’s liability the shallpublisher not exceed amount the publisher’s charge forinsuch advertising. representations or warranties such advertising are those of thethe advertiser of the publisher. is notthe liable to anyofadvertiser for any misprints advertising not No portion of this publication may the fault of the publisherbe andreproduced, in such an event of the publisher’s liabilitywritten shall not exceed theof amount of the publisher’s for such advertising. No portion of this publication in allthe or limit in part, without the express permission the publisher. Canadiancharge Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration may be reproduced, in allunder or part, the conditions: express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited foror editorial consideration thewithout following all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written textsubmissions in electronic hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jewelunder the following conditions: for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text indisc, electronic hard copy format) may bethe used by canadian Jeweller ler and all itsmaterial affiliatessubmitted for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, etc.) or without the consent of, or payment of compensation to, the party providing such and their affiliates for editorial purposes any media (whether to printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent items of, or the payment of compensation to, theStreet party providing material. Pleaseindirect submissions the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor West, Ste.such 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

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AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

January/February 2011

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

CONTENTS.01 / VOL. 135 / NO. 01 CJMag.Departments 14

EDITOR’S NOTE

SHOWCASE/MARKETPLACE

LETTER FROM THE BOARD

CONTRIBUTORS

LAST WORD The Supreme Statement Piece BY KAVITA SABHARWAL

PRODUCT SHOWCASE

STAR WATCH The stars didn’t hold back when it came to their jewellery choices on the red carpet this season. BY IRINA LYTCHAK 24

FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

CJ GALLERY Caravelle New York hosts an exclusive launch party in Toronto; the best of the 2013 JVC Jewellers' Ball 30

CJ INTERVIEW Christian Schaffner, CEO of Davidoff, continues to carry on a tradition of art de vivre and savoir-faire. BY VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

CJ EN FRANÇAIS 51

LES NOUVELLES

ARTISANS DE LA BIJOUTERIE CONTEMPORAINE, UNE VITRINE À DÉCOUVRIR PAR VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

Next issue cover spotlight: Mani Jewellers

COMPANY PROFILE TimeRevolution.com is the preferred watchmaking company thanks to Kuldip Rupra's expertise and passion for the business. BY KAVITA SABHARWAL

*December/January 2014 cover photographed by Kiriako Latridis

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

CONTENTS.02 / VOL. 135 / NO. 01 CJMag.Features+Columns 25

A YEAR IN REVIEW 2013 has come and gone but we wanted to hear from you, our dear industry members, on how your business fared.

36 36

AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE This year, Canadian Jeweller Magazine introduced a new competition, celebrating the best in Canadian jewellery retailing, product development and watch brand innovation.

EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN Canada’s premier jewellery design competition, this year's awards recognized a roster of winners whose work has been exemplary in the industry.

JVC REPORT Getting a solid grip on your inventory is bound to spell success for your jewellery business. BY JOHN LAMONT

KEEPING TIME Overcoming the challenges of maintaining the ever-evolving mechanical watch. BY KULDIP RUPRA

GEMS+GEMMOLOGY What is the secret behind the ongoing success and fascination with coloured gemstones? 44 BY DUNCAN PARKER ON THE COVER PERFECTING THE ART OF SUCCESS 72 Heinrichs Jewellery has cemented itself as a top-notch MINING NEWS retailer in the Saskatoon area, and after 30 years in the Exploring the basics business, there is no doubt that the store’s formula for of where our jewellery success has paid off. pieces come from and BY IRINA LYTCHAK why they hold so much significance. BY MARIA LAURA BARRETO

70 GIVING BACK Beverly Hills Jewellers and CJExpos teamed up for a new scholarship initiative to better the young and growing jewellery community. BY KAVITA SABHARWAL

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

PHONE +1.416.783.0767 TOLL FREE +1.855.505.4669 FAX: +1.416.783.7112 79 WINGOLD AVENUE. UNIT 5, TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA M6B1P5 W W W . J I M M Y C R Y S T A L C A N A D A . C O M JIMMYCRYSTALCANADA@YAHOO.CA

editor's note

Looking back WITH THE HOLIDAY SEASON WELL UNDER WAY, many of you are probably in the midst of the busiest shopping period for your business. And that’s no surprise, because according to the 2013 BMO Holiday Spending Outlook survey, Canadians have been expected to spend an average of $1,810 this holiday season – an increase of 12 per cent from 2012. I want to mark the celebration of a very special event – the recently held 2013 JVC Jewellers’ Ball at the Arcadian Court in downtown Toronto. That’s why I’m featuring extensive coverage of the evening and the award winners from the night – for both the Excellence in Design and Awards of Excellence competitions. The elegant night was all about celebrating the best in Canadian jewellery retailing, product development and watch brand innovation along with the industry’s top players. Thank you to everyone who was a part of such a successful event! In addition to this vibrant photo feature, you will find Kuldip Rupra’s “The Art is in the Movement” column on mechanical watches on page 64. I’m excited to add that Rupra is also the subject of this issue’s Company Profile on TimeRevolution.com found on page 62. In “Colour Commentary” on page 66, Duncan Parker explores the public’s fascination with coloured gemstones while on page 50, you will find an exclusive interview with Davidoff’s Christian Schaffner by our Québec-based writer, Véronique Dubé. I would also like to extend a warm welcome to our newest columnist, Maria Laura Barreto, who will be contributing to us on the mining sector. Finally, I’m also pleased to include a special feature on a wonderful scholarship project initiated by Beverly Hills Jewellers’ John Vaccaro and CJ Expos. It’s initiatives like this one that add a sense of positivity and hope to this industry and reinforce the roles of all jewellers, designers, distributors, manufacturers, retailers, suppliers and associations across Canada. CJ

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

IRINA LYTCHAK MANAGING EDITOR

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RaHul KadaKia. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise. Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day. GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 ADVERTISER: GIA

CanadianJeweller_FNL 2013.indd 1

PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

2/25/13 8:40 AM

letter from the board

by Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive

OVER MY 30-YEAR CAREER IN LUXURY RETAIL, I HAVE COME TO understand the critical value of working with multiple stakeholders in

order to grow a vital and healthy jewellery and watch industry. As vice president of Tiffany & Co. Canada, I had the opportunity to mentor young women, sit on the board for Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), to serve as a judge for the Excellence in Design Awards and, most recently, to join the Editorial Board of Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Canada has a talented jewellery and watch industry encompassing wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, educators, insurers, media and associations. Working with these groups has given me the opportunity to witness first-hand the difference we can all make both nationally and internationally. Excellence in design, production, business ethics and customer experience should drive each member. However, the “experience” is the element that elevates and distinguishes a business, organization or industry. It is the difference between being mediocre and truly memorable, prosperous and sustainable. This uncompromising philosophy is alive and well in the many associations and publications serving our industry. This spring I was asked to participate on the Editorial Board for Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Our most recent conversation covered a wide range of topics from store renovation, human resources, POS systems, vendor relations, real estate, financial guidance and support, product assortment, fashion trends, consumer data and loyalty programs. Topics were chosen based on relevancy to businesses of all sizes and scope. It became apparent that common threads flow throughout the Canadian jewellery landscape and serve to link rather than differentiate or distance us from one another. The Excellence in Design Awards and Awards of Excellence serve as opportunities for our industry to recognize the contributions that individual designers, artists, brands and businesses make to our national landscape and international reputation. It is incumbent on each of us to actively celebrate positive contributors. We must establish and revise codes of conduct. It is up to all of us to ensure that ethical behaviours are strictly enforced. Ultimately, we must engage in the positive sharing of ideas and goods and services. This will guarantee the vibrancy and buoyancy of our industry. My thanks to Canadian Jeweller Magazine for engaging members of our industry and for including me in that ongoing conversation. CJ

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

contributors

Form, meet function. WONDERFUL TOOL! A must-have in the tool box. Great for forming shapes without marring the workpiece. —Azul, student

R io Gra nde. Recommended by jewelers since 194 4.

KIRIAKO LATRIDIS

A self-taught commercial photographer residing in the Prairies, Kiriako Latridis has been shooting for names like Red Bull, National Geographic and The Canadian Pacific Railway since 2005. Today, he’s happily married and expecting the birth of his first daughter! Latridis shot this issue’s cover and cover story on page 44.

VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

DUNCAN PARKER

KAVITA

KULDIP

Véronique Dubé is a trilingual freelance copywriter, translator and proofreader, with many years of experience in the jewellery business. In this issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, she wrote our French news section (“Les Nouvelles”) on page 51 and French Feature (“Artisans de la bijouterie contemporaine, une vitrine à découvrir”) on page 54.

Duncan Parker is VP and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto. He is also president of The Canadian Gemmological Association and Jewellers Vigilance Canada. An educator in gemmology and jewellery, Parker has worked with jewellery for over 25 years. If anyone is qualified to be our gemmology columnist, it’s him. Read his take on coloured gemstones on page 66.

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MARIA LAURA BARRETO

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Over the last 30 years, Maria Laura Barreto has worked as an environmental lawyer, academic, activist and consultant, focused on sustainability in the mining and energy sectors. She now lives in Ottawa, where co-founded a consulting company, the Materials Efficiency Research Group. We are delighted to welcome Barreto as a regular columnist for Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Read her inaugural column on page 72.

SABHARWAL

Shortly after completing her Media Studies degree at the University of GuelphHumber, Kavita Sabharwal quickly jumped into the world of journalism by interning at FLARE. She is also a globe-trotter, having lived in Korea for one year where she taught English. In this issue, Sabharwal interviewed Kuldip Rupra for the Company Profile on page 62 and wrote "Giving Back," the scholarship feature on page 70.

RUPRA

Kuldip Rupra is a thirdgeneration watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One millionplus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. An active member of the American Watchmakers Clockmakers Institute and the Canadian Jewellers Association, he obtained his Ontario Watchmakers License in 1982. Read Rupra’s column on mechanical watches on page 64.

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4

8/26/13 10:58 AM

product showcase

product showcase 2

1. ELLE TIME AND JEWELRY

ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offers a distinguish look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. Featured here is the sophisticated elegance of the ELLE “Starpoint” Collection. 2. ATLANTIC ENGRAVING

New from Atlantic Engraving, the Passion Noir Collection includes a gent’s and ladies matching duo. 10k white gold 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015 carat and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01 carat Diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

3. NOVA

What’s your favourite colour? Chances are that Nova’s mixed sapphire and diamond bangle features at least one colour that immediately came to mind. This 18k white gold bangle features green, blue, yellow, orange, and pink sapphires in addition to over 2.50cts of VS-SI white diamonds. Reference DBN8-327. Retail Price: $48,190. 4. LASHBROOK

Lashbrook is a designer, manufacturer, and distributor of performance and precious metal wedding bands. Lashbrook produces 98 per cent of its pieces in its Draper, Utah facility. For additional company information, please visit lashbrookdesigns.com.

BRIGHTEN YOUR CASES Choose pieces from our fashion jewellery assortment and watch eyes widen with sparkle and joy. Our newest collections feature innovative, elegant designs that are caged, pierced, layered and amazingly well-priced. Call 800-877-7777 or visit stuller.com/inspired.

product showcase

4 3

Inspired by waterfalls, these 14k white gold, genuine Multicolour Sapphire Earrings contain approximately 3cts of sapphires. Retail value: $1,100.

2014-2015 catalogue. With value-added benefits such as rendered photography for enhanced quality, more intuitive navigation and our newest collections in bridal and jewellery, it’s a must-have on your sales counter.

2. MARY JEWELLERY

4. LOTUS JEWELLERY

Photo engraving – capturing memories and wearing them close to your heart. Turn a simple dog tag into a masterpiece.

The “Make the Season Pop” Holiday Gift Set from Kameleon Jewelry® features a Limited Edition Pendant and Angel JewelPop™, the KJP159 Emerald Isle, and the 2013 Christmas Dove Compact, all in a beautiful customized gift box ready to put under the tree! Regular retail value: $139; promotional retail price: $89.

1. BEST BARGAINS

3. STULLER

It’s 992 pages of everything Stuller has to offer: our most up-to-date, comprehensive assortment of product available. It’s our Mountings

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NATURAL WONDERS ™

FOR CANADIAN SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT STEVE TURAC @ 514.771.7469

product showcase

1. JEWELERS MUTUAL INSURANCE COMPANY

Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure – Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company offers this free brochure featuring tips to help customers keep their jewellery safe and sparkling. Makes a great leave-behind! It’s also downloadable for websites. For requests, call 800-558-6411, ext. 2118. 2. GIA

GIA is using the latest technology, the 4Cs app – retailer edition for iPad, to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports. 3. BASELWORLD

BRILLIANCE MEETS – the most distinguished brands, the world’s leading companies in the watch and jewellery industry, the latest trends, exceptional architecture, state-of-the-art infrastructure – all united at THE industry event of the year. BASELWORLD: March 27 to April 3, 2014.

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Putting on a Show

THE STARS DIDN’T HOLD BACK when it came to their jewellery choices on the red carpet

this season. From rose gold sparklers to diamond stunners, it was all about making a statement for these beautiful celebs.

Trendy Tangerine Blake Lively stole the show at a Gucci Women’s Ready to Wear fashion show. As the face of the Gucci Premiere women’s fragrance, Lively wore a Gucci Cruise 2014 nectarine leather halter dress with bamboo buckled belt detail. She finished off her ensemble with several Gucci Bamboo bracelets in 18k yellow gold and 18k pink gold ($2,315/each).

Red Hot Darling Emmy Rossum turned heads when she wore this stunning, beaded red lace Elie Saab cocktail dress from the designer’s Resort 2014 collection to the Elle Celebrates 20th Annual Women in Hollywood Event. Held at the Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles in Beverly Hills, on October 21, 2013, the event saw the star ornament herself with a Norman Silverman Cushion Cut Prong-Set Diamond Line Bracelet in platinum, weighing a total of 21cts (price upon request).

Sultry Stunner Naya Rivera looked absolutely sensational at the 2013 MTV Video Music Awards at the Barclays Center in New York City. The “Glee” star wore a figure hugging, floor-length black Sen Couture dress with several diamond rings. Rivera looked extra lovely wearing the Demarco Jewelry Diamond Ring in 18k Rose Gold ($18,150) featuring a striking design reminiscent of a rose.

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from the industry

A Year in Review

2013 has come and gone but we wanted to hear from you, our dear industry members, on how this experience has been for your business and what we can look forward to in 2014. Jeff Buzbuzian / Owner, Knar Jewellery

“2013 HAS BEEN A VERY SOLID YEAR in finer and larger diamonds – diamond anniversary rings are booming in all sizes. Watches continue to

be strong as well, particularly in solid gold and diamond pieces. Diamond fashions have been terrific for more mature clientele. There are still many changes within the industry with supply and demand that we all must adapt to in order to meet client expectations. As for 2014 and without having a crystal ball, we don’t see business slowing down. The jewellery industry still depends on professional jewellers to make it all happen with consumers – ethics and service always come first. When moving forward, it’s all about adopting new technology and enjoying every client that walks through the door.”

Sian E. Williams / President, Bulova Canada

“I BELIEVE IN POSITIVE THINKING. My glass is half full so, in looking back on 2013, here are some thoughts on the positives. Globally, there’s

more prosperity, with more people thriving thanks to innovation and technical advancements. With this in mind, Twitter’s IPO is yet another indicator that digital and social media need to be more and more relevant in every successful company’s marketing initiatives. The outlook for 2014 is extremely promising. The Canadian retail landscape has been gaining strength since the watershed year of 2011, with retail sales per square foot continuing to outpace the US average. Our retail space is in high demand, which I see translating into more interesting shopping options for Canadians, and, consequently, more traffic in the stores. As for Bulova, we’ve got many exciting projects on tap for 2014: a full year with Caravelle New York, our sponsorship with Manchester United, and the relaunch of Wittnauer. 2014 is going to be another year of change and challenge and we can’t wait.”

Phyllis Richard / Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. (JVC)

“2013 PRESENTED MANY CHALLENGES to this industry from Anti-Money Laundering regulations compliance to purchasing the products we sell

from legitimate suppliers and sustainable sources, not to mention the increasing threat of crime against jewellers. As always, the strong survive. Better use of technology and a commitment to transparency when selling to consumers will define 2014. This will require more education for industry members but we will rise to the challenge.”

Duncan Parker / Vice President, Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers

“2013 HAS BEEN AN INTERESTING YEAR, and the word “interesting” does have an doubtful ring to it. There is business out there, but it

requires hard work. The methods of connecting to clients really have shifted, with so much more emphasis on social media, particularly to bring a younger buyer to the door. Competition in 2013 has been fierce, and having something to set you apart from the other jeweller has become imperative. The year 2014 will be a banner year for the large, important, and extraordinary. Records will be smashed for rare and exceptional items in all disciplines at auction. The jewellery industry will see increased interest in alternative materials, unusual gems, unconventional jewellery materials. Large, joyful, and amusing jewels will become prominent. This, inevitably will be balanced by the growth in large, ominous and dark jewels so fitting in a dystopian future.”

Lilie Ford / Event Director, CJ EXPOS Toronto & Edmonton

“I’VE NEVER SEEN THE INDUSTRY SO “CANADIAN” with success and rising prosperity amongst the truly Canadian companies, their products and services. During the course of the year, WCJE rebranded and expanded into CJ Expos, creating a long-needed “National Marketplace.” As a result, the Canadian industry responded in a dynamic way, with both retailers and exhibitors investing heavily in the idea.” CJ

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for the record

News / Trends / Events GUINNESS BOOK OF WORLD RECORDS RECOGNIZES MONTRÉAL JEWELLER

Montréal jeweller Kaufmann de Suisse has designed an ocean-themed necklace called the ‘Paraiba Star of the Ocean Jewels.’ The Guinness Book of World Records has recognized the centerpiece jewel, known as the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba, as the largest gemstone of its kind, weighing in at 191.87cts. Moneca Kaufmann, president of Kaufmann de Suisse, designed the Paraiba Star of the Ocean Jewels necklace alongside the boutique’s master jeweller Patrick Gravelle. Gravelle crafted the piece, which features a 10.73ct brilliant yellow canary diamond and a gold chain of figurines encrusted with precious and semi-precious stones, including pink, blue, yellow and orange sapphires, emerald, ruby, blue topaz, amethyst, tsavorite, rubellite, garnet and diamonds, according to his boss’s designs and specifications. The Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba, a transparent turquoise Paraiba tourmaline, was first introduced in October 2009, and was given an estimated worth of $25M. Kaufmann believes its worth has only increased with the addition of the necklace. The oval-cut Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba can also be sold on its own, or detached and worn as a brooch. The necklace will be on display from December 14 to 24 in the Kaufmann de Suisse boutique in Palm Beach, Florida. The auction of the necklace is now in the planning stages and will be announced in 2014.

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT AND BIRKS CEMENT CANADIAN PARTNERSHIP

Maison Birks and Swiss watchmaker Frédérique Constant have introduced the Manufacture Worldtimer – Canadian Edition to reinforce their solid partnership. Frédérique Constant President and CEO, Peter Stas, and Maison Birks President and CEO, Jean-Christophe Bédos, were recently on hand at the Bay Street and Bloor Avenue Birks location to unveil the exclusive watch and celebrate Maison Birks becoming Frédérique Constant’s preferred jeweller in Canada. “We’re transforming the brand and investing in building the brand to stand alone, and the same for our Bloor Street store,” says Bédos. “We’re going to transform the store and invest in really fine brands and partnerships.” Peter Stas also presented his new book, Live Your Passion: Building a Watch Manufacture, co-written with his wife Aletta, Gisbert Brunner, and Alexander Linz. The book documents the history of Frédérique Constant and the brand’s core values. “It is the history of how my wife and I started the company, from the earliest prototypes to later on, all the different collections and those prototypes,” says Stas. “You find the development of the company, [and] where the brand name comes from.” The Manufacture Worldtimer, available exclusively at Maison Birks stores in Canada, is an automatic, water-resistant timepiece with a 42-hour power reserve, and date and worldtimer functions adjustable through the crown. It also has a city disc with 24 cities, including Vancouver, Calgary, Winnipeg, Toronto, Montreal and Halifax, marked by a signature red colour. “We’re going to introduce it in April of next year,” says Stas. “It’s a seal and a symbol of our partnership.”

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SWATCH MUST CONTINUE TO SUPPLY MOVEMENTS UNTIL 2019

Top, left to right: Marco Miserendino, Sevan Garabedian, Erik Kocsis Bottom, left to right: Paola Miserendino, David Trudeau-Hamidi, Emilie Costenoble, and Patrizio Ficca

GUCCI PREMIERE AT BIJOUTERIE ITALIENNE

In an exclusive presentation, Montréal jeweller Bijouterie Italienne recently held the Gucci Holiday Trunk Show 2013. The show consisted of unique sets from Gucci’s four main collections, making this event the largest Canada has seen. Guests of the event were treated to a red carpet reception and hors d’oeuvres while one lucky winner was awarded with a Gucci silver bracelet valued at $250. The luxurious pieces showcased a selection of precious materials, meticulous attention to detail, and original design by Gucci’s Creative Director, Frida Giannini. One of the brand's standout items included a cocktail set designed for an evening occasion, consisting of a horsebit necklace with lemon quartz and a ring with lemon citrine, all in white gold and framed by precious diamonds. The black diamond collection displayed pink gold cocktail rings, luxurious earrings, as well as bracelets and necklaces that offer an unexpected take on classic styles and are perfect for black tie events. Gucci also presented its iconic 18k white gold horsebit bracelet with pavé diamonds, which came in a set along with a matching necklace and earrings.

Swatch Group will continue to supply movements to other watchmakers until December 31, 2019 after a ruling announced on October 25 by Swiss competition body Comco. Swatch first petitioned to stop supplying movements to competition watchmakers in June 2011. Swatch Group’s ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse deliveries will gradually taper off over the next six years. Using the average number of movements supplied between 2009 and 2011 as a base number, deliveries will be reduced by 25 per cent from 2014 to 2015, 35 percent from 2016 to 2017, and 45 per cent from 2018 and 2019, after which time Swatch will not be obligated to supply movements. Swatch’s assortment kits, which power its movements, must continue to be supplied at the same levels as in 2011 due to other watchmakers not having the ability to source these parts. Comco has allowed itself the ability to go back on their decision, saying it can review Swatch Group’s deliveries if the market changes unexpectedly. A clause included in the deal is meant to support small and mid-sized businesses in cases of extreme hardship. Swatch has also made an agreement with Swiss competition authority Weko that allows it to gradually reduce component deliveries to rival watchmakers. This move may cause supply shortages for some companies. Swatch had initially requested a reduction of deliveries to their rivals in July of this year but Weko blocked the request. Swatch has been trying to phase out deliveries since 2011, a move that began forcing its rivals to look into producing their own movements and acquire alternate suppliers. A spokesperson for Swatch says, “Swatch Group considers the Competition Commission’s decision to be a positive, albeit tentative, first step toward finally making it clear to all the brands and groups in the Swiss watch industry that they have to invest in their own mechanical movements and assume the associated industrial risk themselves. This is not a luxury but a step necessary for the long-term success of the Swiss watch industry.”

for the record

CALGARY JEWELLERY TEAMS UP WITH ORIS WATCHES AND PLAYBOY

Oris Watches and Playboy chose Calgary as the first city in Canada to host an exclusive reception in partnership with Calgary Jewellery. The event was held at Blink Restaurant, where guests had a meet-and-greet with members of the Oris team and May 2012 Playboy Playmate and cover model Nikki Leigh. Leigh dazzled at the Calgary Jewellery/Oris event, posing with guests and signing autographs. The event was an opportunity for Oris Watches to meet customers and present its diverse line of exceptional watches. Also on hand for the festivities were Calgary Jewellery’s Bernard Florence and his partner Carol Burch, North American Oris CEO V.J. Geronimo, Canadian Director of Marketing and Sales Louise Blain, and Calgary Jewellery’s Jonathan Florence and David Bibbings, among many others. Florence began his partnership with Oris and Playboy while on a business trip to Las Vegas. Oris is a Swiss watchmaker known for offering affordable luxury through its automatic movement timepieces while Playboy has the highest per capita readership in the province of Alberta.

SCOTIABANK TO JOIN FORCES WITH BIGGEST BULLION-IMPORTING BANK IN INDIA FOR GOLD DEPOSIT PLAN

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The Reserve Bank of India (RBI), the largest bullion-importing bank in India, is planning on teaming up with jewellers for the first time ever in order to offer a gold deposit scheme. Canada’s Scotiabank is in talks with RBI and trade group Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) on a project that would attract people to let go of their jewellery with the help of better interest rates. GJF chairman Haresh Soni proposed an interest rate of 2.5 to 3 per cent of the price, to be paid in gold. Banks often run similar schemes independently, offering lower interest rates, so these plans lack popularity among consumers. As a result of a decrease in gold imports to the world’s largest bullion buyer, domestic jewellers have a shortage of supplies. But the demand for gold is still strong and is expected to grow in the next few months. That’s why the gold market has turned its attention on the jewellery that is currently held in people’s private collections. Scotiabank is set on participating in this project with a proposed lock-in period for deposits consisting of two to seven years. “It’s in a fairly advanced stage. There are a couple of issues to be sorted out, so once (they are) sorted out, it could be launched,” says Rajan Venkatesh, managing director of Scotiabank’s Indian bullion operations. Venkatesh did not specify the problems or details involved in the plan. Scotiabank plans to work with jewellers to collect the gold, which offers more accessibility in a region where many buyers turn to family-run jewellers. The Scotiabank scheme is set to start small, with 500 jewellers initially involved but the hope is to expand that to 10,000 jewellers after the first six months.

MASTERS OF DREAMS AT GEORGE BROWN Masters of Dreams is a series of documentaries following some of the biggest names in the jewellery industry, including Bulgari and Damiani. The movie's premiere took place at Toronto's George Brown College earlier this month. Professor Martha Glenny says, “A lot of students have the ambition to be there. One of the things that is so wonderful about the world of jewellery is its diversity. There’s a place for so many of us.” She says it is important for students to be exposed to this level of craftsmanship in order to understand what it means to work for these renowned jewelers. Professor Lisanne Skeouch similarly points out the importance of the film teaching students to depend less on 2D sketches and build models. She says, “I remind my students how important it is to make models by hand. You learn so much from making models and seeing where the problems lie. It hones your skills.” CJ

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Clockwise from top left: Caravelle’s newest models; A guest examining Caravelle pieces; Kardinal Offishall, Canadian rapper and record producer; Display of miniature ‘Time’-themed cupcakes; Damon Allen, CFL quarterback, Sian Williams, Bulova Canada president, Sam Sarpong, actor/model/musician

A taste of “The Big Apple” TO MARK THE UNVEILING OF ITS NEWEST WATCH COLLECTION,

Caravelle New York hosted an exclusive launch party at the elegant location of The Fifth in downtown Toronto. The night was hosted by actor/model/musician, Sam Sarpong, and included a lavish selection of cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. Guests of the evening were taken through Caravelle New York’s latest stylish fashion watch collection for both men and women. The timepieces all

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fell into three creatively designed stories, which included Black & Gold, Rose & Mocha, and Black +. Black & Gold was all about the flash and panache of throwback extravagance while Rose & Mocha was the epitome of elegance through the marriage of tortoise shell with delicate rose gold in haute harmony. Finally, Black + was inspired by the colours of nocturnal New York in a series of vibrantly versatile, utterly unconventional watches. CJ

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2013 Jewellers’ Ball

A night of sparkle and shine, celebrating the best of the Canadian jewellery and watch industries. By Irina Lytchak

Above: Olivier Felicio, Canadian Jeweller Magazine publisher, with actress Eva LaRue; Middle top: Citizen Watch Company accepting their award for Watch Brand of the Year; Right top: Jeff Buzbuzian of Knar Jewellery, with Amber Klaehn; Lower right: Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. (JVC)

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The gala was also an opportunity for LaRue to present the winners of Canadian Jewellers Magazine’s Excellence in Design and the Awards of Excellence competitions with their honours while getting more acquainted with the top players in the Canadian jewellery industry. The Jewellers’ Ball also served as a crucial fundraiser for JVC, a non-profit association dedicated to the betterment of the jewellery industry in Canada by advancing ethical practices within the industry and providing crime prevention education and alert program.

All photography by Robin Kuniski

THIS YEAR’S JEWELLERS’ BALL, organized by Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), was an absolute success. The evening had guests enjoy hors d’oeuvres, cocktails, and a dinner presentation at the elegant setting of the Arcadian Court in downtown Toronto. Thanks to Canadian Jeweller Magazine, the night was highlighted with an exclusive appearance by Eva LaRue, star of shows like CSI Miami and All My Children, who was on hand to take photos with the guests and talk about her newly released jewellery line, Eva LaRue Fine Jewelry.

Top left: Irina Lytchak, Canadian Jeweller Magazine managing editor, and Socrates Reppas of Marquis Jewellers; Top right: Richard Rooney of Bogartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewellers with wife; Lower right; Anita, Allan and Lisa Malbranck of Diamond Gallery; Lower left: Amita and Anita Agrawal of Best Bargains

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4

cj gallery

Clockwise from top right: Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s Irina Lytchak interviewing Eva LaRue; Eva LaRue; Eva LaRue with Clinton Hosannah, Citytv; Diana Luxton, director of business development at Myerson’s Limited, with Ian Sansom; Marco Miserendino of Bijouterie Italienne

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Clockwise from top left: Darace Rose, Grace Ng, PAJ/ELLE sales and marketing manager, Mary Milan, PAJ/ELLE vice president of sales, and Walter Milan; Theresa Lemieux of Lemieux PR, Cam Gillies of Martin Ross Group, and Beth Saunders of Canadian Jewellery Group; Eva LaRue with Erin Poredos, The RGM Group marketing and events coordinator; Lilie Ford, CJ Expos event director; Phil Payne, CJ Expos president, with wife Barbara Payne; Duncan Parker, Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers vice president, with Anne Marie Guchardi; Diane Vander Laan with Gino DeVuono, Movado Group director of sales

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4

awards cj en français of excellence

And the winners are...

AoE

AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE

This year, Canadian Jeweller Magazine introduced AWARDS OFthe EXCELLENCE 2013 INDEPENDENT Awards of Excellence competition, an extension of theJEWELLERY renowned RETAILER-OF-THE-YEAR AWARD Excellence in Design Awards. By Irina Lytchak Rules and submission FoRm Eligibility

The 2013 independent Jewellery Retailer-of-the-Year award is open to any Canadian jewellery retailer with five stores or less.

Criteria

2013 2013 2013 2013

This award recognizes excellence by an independent Jewellery Retailer (five stores or less) in Canada with an emphasis on produc selection and knowledge, customer service, and innovative marketing initiatives. Companies submitting a nomination must be registered in Canada.

Product Line of the Year: Max Strauss - Designer SeriesEntry- FeeB&S (Canada) Inc. Watch Brand of the Year: Citizen Watch Company Deadline For Entries Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year: DiamondJudging Gallery – Allan, Anita and Lisa Malbranck Multi-Store Jewellery Retailer of the Year: Bogart’s Jewellers – Richard Rooney

THE FOCUS OF THE AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE is to celebrate the best

in Canadian jewellery retailing, product development and watch brand innovation. As a result, entrants had the opportunity to compete in one of four of the following categories: Product Line of the Year, Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year, Multi-Store Jewellery Retailer of the Year, and Watch Brand of the Year. This competition’s judging panel included Linda Penwarden of Penwarden Fine Jewellery, Luxury Retail Executive Andrea Hopson, Paul Mcfarlane of Chanel Canada, jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia, and Lisanne Skeoch of Lisanne Skeoch Jewellery. For the Product Line of the Year category, the judges looked at contestants that possessed new thinking in leading-edge product development. This included pushing the envelope in terms of trends, aesthetic sensibility, pricing and increased sales, and backed by innovative marketing techniques and customer services.

There is an entry fee of $30.00 per nomination.

entries must be received no later than 5:00 p.m. on Friday, september 6th 2013. entries and materials will not be returned.

Judging will take place during october 2013 by a prestigious panel of judges made up of Canadian retailing experts and jewellery manufacturers. The judging process is confidential and the judges’ decision is final.

Promotion

Winners will be published in an upcoming issue Canadian Jeweller magazine and agree to their name being used in press The award for the Independent Retailer ofofthe Year recognized releases, magazine articles, social media initiatives and on the Canadian Jeweller magazine website. once the results are formall excellence by a Canadian retailer with ﬁve stores or less with an are free to self-promote their achievement. announced at the JVC Jewellers’ ball in Toronto on november 16th, 2013, winners emphasis on product selection and knowledge, customer service, and innovative marketing initiatives. The multi-store retailer was selected based on the same criteria but CANADIA had to have five stores or more. Annual JVC Jewellers’ Ball JEWELLE November 2013 winner was chosen based on the Finally, the watch brand of 16th, the year Mag. selected company’s tribute to watch design innovation and originality along with attention to cutting-edge marketing techniques and customer service. Winners were announced at the annual JVC Jewellers’ Ball on November 16, 2013 in Toronto. CJ

2013 Product Line of the Year: Max Strauss - Designer Series - B&S (Canada) Inc. 36

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awards of excellence

2013 Watch Brand of the Year: Citizen Watch Company Tara Bon, Eric Senftleben, and Doug Irwin

2013 Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year: Diamond Gallery – Allan, Anita and Lisa Malbranck

2013 Multi-Store Jewellery Retailer of the Year: Bogart’s Jewellers – Richard Rooney 38

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Thank you for your generous support of the jewellers’ ball 2013! Diamond Sponsor Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company Martin Ross Group Inc

Silver C. Rivet, Bijoux De Creation Canadian Jewellers Association Canadian Jewellery Expos Citizen Watch Co. of Canada Corona Jewellery Co. Stuller, Inc. Umicore Precious Metals Canada

Other Sponsors 925 Solutions Access Security Products Angus Glen Golf Club Best Bargains Beverly Hills Jewellers Bulova Watch Co. Cadman Manufacturing Canadian Jeweller/Ever Magazine Canadian Jewellery Group Carleen Ross Charm Diamond Centres Citizen Watch Co. of Canada CJ Expo – Edmonton CJ Expo – Toronto CJB Insurance Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers Fairlane Group Georgian College Gilo Pearls Gucci Watches and Jewellery International Gemological Institute JCK Events Jeff Morrison Jewelers Board of Trade Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company JSN Jewellery malo creations Movado Group of Canada Myerson’s Ltd. Naka Press National Ballet of Canada Northern Divine Caviar PAJ Canada/Elle Jewellery Rembrandt Charms Rolex Watch Co. of Canada Sequel Canada Swarovski Canada The Time Shop Timex Group Canada, Inc. Umicore Precious Metals Canada WWRD Canada

Canadian Jeweller Magazine - Official magazine of JVC Thank you to our Georgian College Volunteers

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13-11-22 3:20 PM

excellence in design

CELEBRATING the best in the industry Sponsored by Canadian Jeweller Magazine, the Excellence in Design Awards is Canada’s premier jewellery design competition. By Irina Lytchak THIS YEAR, THE EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION received over 50 entries. The judging panel included Linda Penwarden of Penwarden Fine Jewellery, Luxury Retail Executive Andrea Hopson, Paul Mcfarlane of Chanel Canada, jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia, and Lisanne Skeoch of Lisanne Skeoch Jewellery. The judging process included a selection of up to three finalists, along with one award winner in each of the five categories. The entrants were

evaluated based on originality, creativity, quality of workmanship, and wearability. The annual JVC Jewellers’ Ball, held on November 16, 2013 in Toronto, was where the winners and finalists of this year’s competition were announced.

DIAMOND CATEGORY

WINNER: Michael daCosta, Fortunes Fine Jewellers, Toronto – An 18k white gold articulated cuff set with fifty princess cut diamonds. FINALISTS: David Blitt, Troy Shoppe Jewellers, Calgary – ‘Dancing Diamonds’ ladies’ ring in 18k white and yellow gold set with three main moving diamonds. Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery By Varouj, Toronto – Custom made ladies’ ring in 18k white gold, channel set with a princess cut natural diamond.

WINNER

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FINALISTS

excellence in design

CANADIAN DIAMOND CATEGORY

WINNER: Karin Bunzeit, Stittgen Fine Jewelry, Vancouver – ‘Fleur de Lys Ring’ ladies’ ring in 18k white gold with a 2.13ct radiant cut Canadian diamond. FINALISTS: Michael daCosta, Fortunes Fine Jewellers, Toronto – Earrings featuring two Canadian diamonds caught in a platinum web. Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery By Varouj, Toronto – Ladies’ engagement tower ring in 18k white gold with one brilliant cut Canadian diamond.

WINNER

FINALISTS

PEARL CATEGORY

WINNER: Donald Stuart, Midhurst, Ontario – Ladies’ necklace in 18k gold with a Baroque pearl, freshwater pearls and diamonds. FINALISTS: Michael daCosta, Fortunes Fine Jewellers, Toronto – Men’s cufflinks in 18k white and yellow gold, black Tahitian pearls, and four round brilliant cut diamonds. Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery By Varouj, Toronto – Ladies’ handmade ring in 18k gold, mabe pearl and nineteen round brilliant cut diamonds.

WINNER

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FINALISTS

PLATINUM CATEGORY

WINNER: Jeff Nechka, Premier Gems Ltd., Calgary – Hand crafted platinum chandelier earrings featuring briolette cut diamonds weighing 1.50cts and round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 1.00cts. FINALISTS: Laura Tedesco, Laura Tedesco Jewellery Design, Hamilton – One of a kind platinum engagement ring with 18k gold accent, an asscher cut centre diamond, two channel set trapezoid cuts, 26 full cut round brilliants, hand engraved shank, and laurel leaf details. Socrates Reppas, Marquis Jewellers, Toronto – Ladies’ platinum ring set with 1.57ct Marquis diamond.

WINNER

FINALISTS

COLOURED GEMSTONE CATEGORY

WINNER: David Abugov, Jewels To Die For, Halifax – Ladies’ contemporary ring in 18k white gold with an antique-style oval blue sapphire and full cut modern brilliants. FINALISTS: Alfredo Alvarez, Alvarez Designs, Toronto – Ladies’ rings in 18k white and yellow gold with an orange-yellow sapphire, seven white diamonds and thirteen orange-yellow natural diamonds. Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels By Design, Calgary – ‘Carnevale’ earrings in 18k white gold, ear-clip with bezel-set fleur de lys carved from druzy black agate accented with small set white diamonds. Tyler McKillop, Concept Jewelry Design, St. Albert – ‘Ring in Motion’ in 18k white gold with an oval blue zircon, white diamonds, and enhanced blue brilliant cut diamonds.

WINNER

FINALISTS

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cover story

Art of Success

Since first opening its doors in 1984, Heinrichs Jewellery has stayed committed to a formula that has cemented the family name as a top-notch retailer in the Saskatoon area. By Irina Lytchak / Photographs by Kiriako Latridis SOMETIMES ONE IS ENOUGH. Due to the ongoing success of the

Heinrichs' current location at The Centre Mall in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, the family-run business has no plans of opening any additional stores. “We do a very good job with one store, and when you add more stores it’s a whole new ball game,” says Kent Heinrichs, part owner and general manager of Heinrichs Jewellery. “We’re good because the people who make the decisions are in the store, the expertise is in that store, so when you have customers who want to talk to the owner or want to spend a significant amount of money, they have that person to talk to. And the more stores you have, I feel, it becomes much more difficult to play that game.” Kent has been in his current role for the past four years. He didn’t envision taking over the family business when he was younger though. “I would never have guessed it,” he confesses. “I was encouraged to try other things as well, so I did quite a few. Lived in New Zealand for a year; worked on a vineyard. I worked for a year in cabinet making, some carpentry – I found that great fun as well. So, I’ve enjoyed a lot of things.”

LOOKING INTO THE PAST

Today, Kent works with his father, Dennis Heinrichs, who opened Heinrichs Jewellery back in 1984. “For many years, it was a tougher go; it wasn’t always easy,” says Kent. “He [my father] persevered and it’s come to a place where it’s doing well.” When the store first opened its doors it was the last independent retailer to join the city’s roster of already existing jewellery dealers. As time passed, many of these stores closed. Heinrichs, however, has remained resilient, operating in an urban mall along with three other jewellers.

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Over the years, Dennis has given his son more and more authority in the store, and while they both collaborate on the more significant decisions, today, Kent is the one running most of the day-to-day operations with a staff of about 10. “The store has been designed so that [Dennis] does not have to be there full-time, that he’s able to take time off when he desires, and the store will keep moving and keep progressing,” says Kent. He also adds that working with his father has turned out be a much more successful endeavor than he had previously imagined. “We’ve come from the same family, however, we still had different experiences growing up,” says Kent. “His childhood was quite a bit different than mine and education-wise has been quite different as well. We have quite a different outlook on things, so when we have a decision to make, we counterbalance each other quite well.”

SECRET TO SUCCESS

According to Kent, Heinrichs’ success in staying on top, especially in a mall, lies in his decision to stay away from promotional sales, something the store did in the past and has now slowly stopped. “We realized if we’re going to go anywhere, we’re going to have to find new ground,” explains Kent. “Being in Saskatoon, with a vibrant economy and growing fast, there was lots of room for the next step up. Not saying high-end, but we carry a lot of brands that are for that middle, more affluent person – those brands that are known.” Kent recognizes that over the years, consumers have become unresponsive to promotional sales, and not just in the jewellery industry but in retail as a whole. In order to combat this, Kent says that Heinrichs has looked up to the more affluent and renowned jewellery houses and followed their working models instead.

Kent Heinrichs

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Dennis Heinrichs

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“I enjoy the challenge of building something and your success is directly correlated to your own ingenuity.” – Kent Heinrichs “There are certain jewellers out there that you recognize as icons of the industry, where you will never see a sale sign in the window whatsoever,” he says. “They’ve taken that road and for them it’s been success. I believe it’s been a good example for us and it’s worked. We don’t regret it whatsoever and we’re happy we’ve gone down that road.” As a result, Kent strongly believes in a fair price while staying competitive in order to survive the game. That’s why he says it’s so important to have staff that are knowledgeable and are able to explain to the customer the value of the product they’re getting. “Our consumers have been to a few other jewellers usually prior, and they can be surprised when we don’t give them that kind of discount,” he says. “When you’re able to have staff that understand the value and can explain it to the consumer, it’s not hard for them to make the decision themselves. Usually, nine times out of 10, they will decide on the better quality if you’ve done your job properly.”

PRODUCT SELECTION

Aside from running the business, Kent’s contributions to the store have surpassed his abilities as a general manager. As someone who comes from a younger generation, he has brought a more modern element to his father’s business as a result of his passion for marketing and ability to stay on top of current fashion trends. “Brands that I believe the consumer is familiar with are important,” says Kent. “A brand the consumer is not familiar with and you’re paying premium already for that brand, it is an uphill battle, I believe.” Kent also does most of the buying for Heinrichs and being knowledgeable of what’s out there comes natural to him. “It helps being tied into the sales part,” he says. “When purchasing, number one is the style factor, first and foremost, it doesn’t matter what the price is. If it’s not attractive to the consumer, it’s not going to sell. After that would be the quality of the craftsmanship. We desire a higher-quality product, one we do not want to have to be repairing all the time.”

Today, while watches make up one third of Heinrichs' product selection, it is the diamonds that remain the main focus. As a result, the store is also a proud member of the Canadian diamond industry. “The majority of our advertising is always diamond-related,” explains Kent. “Bridal is, for us, the most significant of all the purchases, bridal being engagement and anniversary. If you’re not doing diamonds, you’re not making the numbers. There is that other customer that is not looking for the lowest price out there. He wants quality and he wants service; those are the customers you focus on.” “We focus on the ethics behind [Canadian diamonds] as well, and as you’ll probably notice in marketing, a lot of significant brands are now tying in ethics to their campaign,” he says. “Canadian diamonds being responsibly sourced, ethically mined, both environmentally and the human factor as well, and being in Canada and supporting Canadians is a natural fit anyway. We’re not exclusive to it, because right now you cannot meet all your demands with exclusively Canadian diamonds, but it’s a big part of our focus.”

CELEBRATING A MILESTONE

Next year, Heinrichs will be celebrating its thirtieth anniversary and it’s safe to say that the store shows no signs of slowing down when it comes to its success. “I enjoy the challenge of building something and your success is directly correlated to your own ingenuity and the effort you put in,” says Kent. By establishing a foolproof formula for success through smart product selection and an amazing working relationship between father and son, it’s evident why the team isn’t planning on opening any more locations in the near future. “We’re in a great city, it’s growing fast, things are happening, and the store is doing well,” says Kent. “Things are vibrant and it’s been a good ride so far.” CJ

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“[My father and I] have quite a different outlook on things, so when we have a decision to make, we counterbalance each other quite well.” – Kent Heinrichs

AT A GLANCE: Name: Heinrichs Jewellery Owner: Kent and Dennis Heinrichs Location: The Centre Mall, 3310-8th Street East, Saskatoon, SK Products and Services: Jewellery, watches, repairs, custom work Store Size: 1,500 square feet Staff: 10 employees Known For: Canadian Diamonds Brands: Forevermark, Gucci, Tissot, Michael Kors, Coach, etc. Cool Factor: Fashionable, relaxed atmosphere i.e. fine denim jeans permitted if accessorized properly

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‘Excellence’ – the word behind Davidoff

Christian Schaffner, CEO of Davidoff, continues to carry on a tradition of art de vivre and savoir-faire. By Véronique Dubé TODAY, DAVIDOFF SWITZERLAND MANUFACTURES everything from

watches and pens to leather goods, glasses and perfume. Its beginnings in 1912, however, were much smaller. The man behind the brand, Zino Davidoff, was born in Kiev, Ukraine to Jewish parents. The family stayed there until relocating to Geneva, Switzerland in 1911. After receiving his degree and traveling South and Central America, Davidoff took over his father’s business in 1930. What had originally been a modest tobacco shop soon grew into a rich business during and after World War II. By the 1970s, Davidoff started licensing the name to a number of different manufacturers. Today, the Zino Davidoff Luxury Group caters to a sophisticated clientele. Christian Schaffner, who has a law degree and worked in the gaming and banking industries prior to joining Davidoff in 2000, took over as CEO of Davidoff Switzerland in 2006. Under his leadership, Davidoff has grown to include a watch sector that represents an important segment of the company. At a Montréal event to promote the launch of the luxury goods brand in Canada, Schaffner spoke with Canadian Jeweller Magazine about the founder and the company. “He was a gentleman and a curious person,” says Schaffner. “Zino was always trying to find the best of the best, wherever it was. He was a man who always has the notion of pleasure in mind. Actually, ‘pleasure’, ‘excellence’ and ‘gentleman’ were the three words at his core.” Although it’s a competitive market, Schaffner is optimistic about Davidoff’s watches in the marketplace. “We have to be close to our brand values and what we are doing,” he says. “We have worked to improve this acquisition and in the end, it’s about the design; the statement.” The secret in Davidoff’s success so far may lie in Schaffner’s ability to recognize the importance of timepieces when it comes to the male demographic. “It’s all about being a gentleman,” he says. “The perfect companion to a man is his watch. The watch you wear tells a lot about your personality.”

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Davidoff has been strategic in how it markets itself as a Swiss luxury goods brand, which is why the company has teamed up with several male ambassadors, including actors Paul Walker and Ewan McGregor. “This person should be credible for what we are doing, and connected to the values and the spirit of the company,” says Schaffner of Davidoff’s representatives. “I’m thinking about somebody who is grounded, well-educated, open-minded and a gentleman.” Now that Davidoff watches have been officially launched in Canada, Schaffner and his team anticipate the presence of Davidoff to be even stronger. “We want to increase the number of new retailers,” he explains. “In the next year, we want people to know that Davidoff makes luxury goods. We want the consumers to notice the presence of Davidoff in the luxury market. We want people to buy a luxury product that’s 100 per cent European-made, that’s synonymous with quality and unique designs. Our main strategy is to increase our presence in the Canadian market.” A brand that was once better known as a cigar company, Davidoff has made leaps and bounds when it comes to its presence in the global market. And today, it is proud to claim that art de vivre and quality are the things that are reflected in each and every one of Davidoff’s products – especially watches. CJ

Clockwise from top left: Davidoff launch at Hôtel Le Crystal; Sean Polan, partner at Sothil; Véronique Dubé, writer for Canadian Jeweller Magazine; Alexandre Despatie, host of City Montreal’s morning show Breakfast Television; Christian Schaffner, Davidoff CEO & delegate of the Board of Directors; John Burns, Davidoff commercial director ; Chris Iliopoulos, partner at Sothil: Christian Schaffner, Davidoff CEO & delegate of the Board of Directors (photos: Sylvain Légaré)

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Les Nouvelles PAR VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

PANDORA ET LA COURSE À LA VIE CIBC

Le 6 octobre dernier au parc Maisonneuve de Montréal avait lieu la Course à la vie CIBC de la Fondation canadienne du cancer du sein. Chaque année, l’événement se déroule dans une soixantaine de villes au pays et rassemble plus de 130 000 participants. Pandora était présente dans 16 différentes villes et a amassé 25 000$. En plus d’inspirer les femmes partout dans le monde, Pandora les invite à dévoiler leur personnalité et à partager les histoires qui rendent la vie extraordinaire. Cette année, Pandora offrait la chance aux participants de gagner une montre rose Imagine. La compagnie poursuivra sa collaboration avec la Course à la vie CIBC l’année prochaine afin de recueillir des fonds pour la recherche sur le cancer du sein ainsi que les traitements et les soins qui y sont associés. Mais aussi pour permettre à toutes les femmes de partager des moments inoubliables.

SWATCH PEUT RÉDUIRE LA LIVRAISON DES MOUVEMENTS

Le 21 octobre dernier, les autorités suisses en matière de concurrence ont approuvé un accord autorisant Swatch Group à réduire la livraison des mouvements mécaniques à ses concurrents. Selon la nouvelle entente, Swatch devra poursuivre ses activités de livraison jusqu’au 31 décembre 2019, mais le volume diminuera graduellement et sera réduit à 75% de son volume actuel pour 2014-2015, 65% pour 2016-2017 et 55% pour 2018-2019. Plusieurs concurrents de Swatch dépendent de ce dernier afin de s’approvisionner en mouvements mécaniques. L’entente stipule aussi que toutes les compagnies devront être traitées équitablement et la commission se réserve le droit de réviser cette entente si les conditions du marché changent.

DAVIDOFF : PASSION DE L’EXCELLENCE ET PLAISIR DE LA VIE

Dévoilée en sol canadien le 25 septembre dernier à l’hôtel Le Crystal de Montréal lors de son lancement, la compagnie Davidoff présentait la nouvelle collection de montres haut de gamme Velocity. Offrant des modèles pour hommes et pour femmes, les montres sont toutes équipées de mouvements suisses et sont entièrement fabriquées en Europe. La nouvelle collection de montres masculines VELOCITY prend racine dans l’amour de Zino Davidoff pour les voitures de sport d’époque. De son côté, la collection VELOCITY Lady s’enrichit de nouveaux gardetemps prêts à conquérir le cœur de femmes ayant un goût marqué pour le talent artisanal et le design contemporain sophistiqué. Distribuées |au Canada par Sothil, elles feront tourner bien des têtes.

LES BOUCLES D’OREILLE PORTÉES À L’OREILLE ONT LA COTE

D’abord, on les aime parce qu’elles sont classiques. Prenons les boucles d’oreille de style auréole, aussi connues en anglais sous le nom de halo. Serties de pierres, toutes les femmes les portent; elles vont avec tout. Et plusieurs fournisseurs les offrent avec le centre amovible, ce qui permet de porter l’auréole ou non. Les styles à la Princesse Diana font aussi un retour marqué. Intemporelles, on apprécie le centre du bijou souvent serti d’un saphir, d’un rubis ou d’une émeraude et les diamants qui orneront la pierre centrale. Les opales, les perles et les diamants, qui offriront un look plus antique ou vintage, sont aussi populaires. Qu’elles soient en or jaune, blanc ou en argent, elles seront le parfait cadeau du temps des fêtes.

LA NOUVELLE IRING POUR BIENTÔT?

La nouvelle télévision Apple devrait bientôt voir le jour et serait fonctionnelle entre autres grâce à la « iRing » numérique. Après avoir rencontré les fournisseurs d’Apple en Chine et à Taiwan, l’analyste Brian White a révélé au magazine AppleInsider qu’il s’attend ni plus ni moins à un produit qui « révolutionnera l’expérience de la télévision à tout jamais ». Certains prévoient son lancement d’ici la fin de l’année, alors que d’autres s’attendent plutôt à ce qu’il fasse son entrée dans les marchés au début de 2014. L’accessoire « bague » de la télévision Apple agirait comme un « pointeur de navigation ».

CHUTE DU PRIX DE L’OR À PRÉVOIR

Goldman Sachs prévoit que l’or chutera à 1150$ au courant de la prochaine année. Le prix de l’or, qui plane actuellement aux alentours de 1300$ l’once, pourrait descendre jusqu’à 1100$ l’once. En attendant, le prix du métal jaune demeurera instable, oscillant entre 1250$ et 1350$. Au début de l’année, il se vendait 1657$ l’once.

ÉQUIPE DE PANDORA PRÉSENTE LORS DE LA COURSE À LA VIE CIBC. COLLECTION VELOCITY POUR HOMMES, GENT AUTOMATIC MOON PHASE

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BEBLUE, DES BIJOUX ENTIÈREMENT FABRIQUÉS À MONTRÉAL

Beblue, dont Ambre Cadoux est la designer et propriétaire, est une griffe de bijoux et d’accessoires en argent 925. Composée de perles de nacre, de perles d’eau douce, de cristaux et de pierres fines, des matières telles la soie naturelle ou le lin sont souvent aussi intégrés aux créations, entièrement assemblées à la main. Ambre voyage régulièrement au Moyen-Orient et en Europe pour acheter la plus grande partie des pierres et perles qui ornent les bijoux. Elle les choisit avec soin et s’assure qu’elles correspondent à ses critères de qualité. Tous les bijoux sont entièrement fabriqués à Montréal, dans le respect des traditions de la joaillerie. Les zircons sont sertis et les perles sont enfilées sur fil de soie. Beblue s’implique dans divers événements caritatifs, tels que le Marché Casse-Noisette et la soirée gala des Grands Ballets Canadiens. Offrant deux collections par année, la nouvelle collection Beblue automne-hiver propose des idées-cadeaux parfaites tant pour les femmes que pour les hommes.

PROCHAIN ÉVÉNEMENT BRIDGE CANADIEN CHEZ STULLER AU PRINTEMPS 2014

L’événement Bridge canadien du printemps 2013 a connu un tel succès que Stuller répètera l’expérience au printemps 2014. Plus de 40 bijoutiers canadiens pourront donc y participer afin de découvrir la Louisiane et bien entendu, Lafayette, où est situé le siège social de la compagnie. Stuller, qui embauche plus de 1250 employés, livre au-delà de 200 000 articles à 40 000 clients en respectant sa promesse de livraison le lendemain. Derrière ce travail colossal se cachent un rêve, une passion et une équipe de talent qui, pendant deux jours, partagera son savoir-faire aux participants. Une invitation sera lancée sous peu sur le site de Stuller.com et par l’intermédiaire du service à la clientèle afin que les bijoutiers puissent s’y inscrire. C’est un événement, mais surtout une expérience unique à ne pas manquer.

14 JOAILLIERS DU QUÉBEC CHEZ NOEL GUYOMARC’H

La Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h présentait, le 25 octobre dernier, une exposition réunissant un collectif 14 joailliers du Québec. Après un passage aux États-Unis et à Ottawa, elle s’installait à Montréal sous le thème Transparence. Rassemblant une centaine d’œuvres inédites au total, chacune des pièces présentées a été minutieusement conçue et choisie pour son caractère unique, la qualité des métaux et des pierres précieuses ainsi que la démarche artistique entourant l’œuvre. Le vernissage a connu un réel succès et l’exposition, qui s’est poursuivie jusqu’au 24 novembre, se déroulait en collaboration avec la SODEC (Société de développement des entreprises culturelles) et comptait plusieurs chargés d’enseignement de l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal parmi les exposants. AMBRE CADOUX, DESIGNER ET PROPRIÉTAIRE DE BEBLUE; BRACELET BE SURYA TRIPLE TONES, TRIPLE TONS EN ARGENT 925, PLAQUÉ OR JAUNE ET ROSE 14CT AVEC BRELOQUE BEBLUE EN ARGENT 925; BAGUES BE GEM, EN ARGENT 925 AVEC PIERRES FINES SERTIES, PLAQUÉES RHODIUM; VERNISSAGE DE L’EXPOSITION TRANSPARENCE À LA GALERIE NOÉL GUYOMARC'H, LE 25 OCTOBRE DERNIER; ÉVÉNEMENT BRIDGE – 29 SEPTEMBRE AU 1ER OCTOBRE 2013 – DE GAUCHE À DROITE : FRANÇOIS FORTIER ET CAROLINE JOBIN, DE BIJOUTERIE FORTIER DESIGN À THEDFORD MINES; MATT STULLER, FONDATEUR ET PRÉSIDENT DE STULLER; MARTIAL DUBÉ, SPÉCIALISTE EN DÉVELOPPEMENT COMMERCIAL CHEZ STULLER; MARILYNE LEMIEUX ET PASCAL CHARRON, DE BIJOUTERIE JACQUES CHARRON À GATINEAU

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LES COMPAGNIES DE BIJOUX VEULENT LES DESIGNERS

Est-ce que Scott Kay pourrait devenir le prochain David Yurman? La compagnie spécialisée dans le bijou de mariage en a fait réagir plus d’un quand elle a nommé en août dernier David Minster comme présidentdirecteur général. Fort de ses 25 années d’expérience dans l’industrie des produits de luxe, ses tâches s’établiront autour de la marque et du design. « J’occupais chez David Yurman un poste très similaire en terme de grandeur, d’étendue et d’infrastructure des défis », disait-il. Minster prévoit se concentrer sur le développement des produits. En tant que leader dans la catégorie du design de bijoux de mariage, et innovateur dans la bijouterie haut de gamme, Scott Kay éblouit les consommateurs de ses designs depuis plus de 30 ans. Scott Kay demeurera président et designer en chef. Grâce à cette transition, il souhaite se consacrer davantage sur l’aspect art et design de la compagnie.

KAUFMANN DE SUISSE DÉVOILE LA PLUS GROSSE TOURMALINE PARAÍBA

Etherial Carolina Divine Paraíba est la plus grosse tourmaline Paraíba enregistrée à ce jour, avec un poids de 191,87 carats et une valeur estimée à 125 millions de dollars. Le 18 octobre dernier, Kaufmann de Suisse, à Montréal, a dévoilé un collier unique présentant la pierre de taille ovale. On retrouve la tourmaline Paraíba dans la mer en raison de la longue séparation des continents de l’Afrique et de l’Amérique et de leur dérive dans les océans. La pièce a été créée pour souligner la beauté et la pureté de la terre et des écosystèmes océaniques. Pour rendre hommage au parcours de 20 000 lieues sous la mer de l’extraordinaire tourmaline Paraíba de 191,87 carats, c’est sur un thème marin qu’a été dévoilé le fameux bijou au cœur duquel elle a été déposée. Des pierres précieuses et semi-précieuses rayonnantes ainsi qu’un diamant jaune de 10 carats accompagnent et rehaussent le bleu transparent de Etherial Carolina Divine Paraíba. Célébrée par un record Guiness en 2009, la tourmaline mesure 36.44 mm par 33.75 mm par 21.95 mm. Elle s’inscrit aux rangs des plus célèbres avec le Logan Sapphire, le Hope Diamond, le Golden Jubilee, le Alan Caplan Ruby et le Cullinan Diamond.

SCOTT KAY (À GAUCHE) ET DAVID MINSTER (À DROITE), NOUVEAU PDG DE SCOTT KAY; COLLIER EXQUIS ET SPECTACULAIRE ORNÉ DE ETHERIAL CAROLINA DIVINE PARAÍBA; ISABELLE MARÉCHAL, PORTANT LA ETHERIAL CAROLINA DIVINE PARAÍBA, DE GAUCHE À DROITE : PATRICK GRAVELLE, ISABELLE MARÉCHAL, E. P. KAUFMANN, MONECA KAUFMANN, VINCENT BOUCHER

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Artisans de la bijouterie contemporaine, une vitrine à découvrir

Claudio Pino et Lynn Légaré sont deux joailliers bien de chez nous. À Montréal, ils oeuvrent surtout en solo, et on les retrouve lors d’expositions au Salon des métiers d’arts et à la Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h, ainsi qu’à la Galerie L. A. Pai, à Ottawa. Par Véronique Dubé L’AN DERNIER, ILS ÉTAIENT 14 JOAILLIERS à participer à l’exposition

Craftsmanship in Metal: Jewelry Artists of Québec Exhibition à la Galerie Aaron Faber à New York. L’événement, chapeauté par l’Office du Gouvernement du Québec à New York et la SODEC, avait pour but de faire valoir des talents québécois et de promouvoir la production, la distribution et l’exportation de bijoux contemporains. Une rencontre avec deux de ces joailliers, passionnés par l’œuvre contemporaine de la bijouterie.

CLAUDIO PINO

Montréalais d’origine chilienne, Claudio Pino est bien plus qu’un artisan joaillier. Celui qui voue une passion sans borne aux sciences – archéologie, cinétique, mathématique, astronomie – a effectué, suite à l’obtention d’un diplôme professionnel en joaillerie, plus de quatre ans de recherche intensive avant de se lancer dans la fabrication de bijoux en 2000. Il puise sa constante inspiration dans l’être humain et conçoit des bijoux pour ces femmes et ces hommes qui, comme lui, sont passionnés par les pièces uniques et les bijoux d’art. Guidé depuis son enfance par sa fascination pour le design et l’architecture, les couleurs et les formes, il est encore aujourd’hui toujours aussi émerveillé par le caractère des pierres et la brillance des métaux.

SON INSPIRATION

Bien qu’il soit interpellé par plusieurs sujets, Claudio Pino admet que son inspiration créatrice est souvent le résultat de voyages, d’expériences extraordinaires, de rencontres ou de moments uniques. Il est de ces artistes qui ne laissent aucun détail lui échapper. Chacune des facettes issues de sa source d’inspiration sera étudiée dans le moindre de ses détails. Quand on regarde, touche, manipule, et examine les bijoux Pino, ils évoquent à la fois la force, le rêve, la précision, la nature, la justesse, la passion, la masculinité et la féminité. Et pourtant, l’artiste exécute un travail irréprochable à opposer des thèmes aussi différents et qui, une fois sous son emprise, y trouvent un équilibre parfait. « En fait, je cherche l’équilibre que peut offrir l’asymétrie, dit Claudio Pino. Le jour et la nuit, les soleils et les lunes. Je juxtapose souvent les couleurs chaudes et froides, telles que l’or et le platine. » Cette asymétrie, il la trouve dans la nature, l’architecture, les émotions.

SON PROCESSUS CRÉATIF

Le joaillier travaille parfois avec une thématique déterminée, ou il peut créer une collection de plusieurs pièces qui découlera d’une expérience vécue. Il puisera ses idées dans la pierre; elle déterminera quelle tangente il empruntera. S’il s’agit d’une pièce sur mesure, il s’inspirera de la personne à qui la bague est destinée afin de donner vie au rêve. Après tout, c’est une personne qui portera le bijou. Lors de sa récente exposition Le pouvoir des bagues, qui avait lieu à la Guilde canadienne des métiers d’art, Claudio Pino présentait 40 bagues dont plus de 20 d’entre elles étaient cinétiques. À ces bagues, il ajoute de minuscules mécanismes pour que la pierre suive le mouvement de la main. « Les bagues sont très personnelles et immergées de symbolisme. De l’Égypte ancienne jusqu’au 21e siècle, leur histoire de plusieurs milliers d’années est complexe et fascinante. Qu’elles symbolisent l’amour, la puissance, les réussites ou qu’elles servent de talisman, les bagues sont remplies de pouvoirs incomparables… » confiait l’artiste.

SON AMOUR POUR LE MÉTIER

Récipiendaire de nombreux prix, Claudio Pino est fasciné comme au premier jour par le caractère portable de la joaillerie. En 2011, il a poursuivi une maîtrise en étude du platine à la Holt Academy Jewellery de Londres et a reçu une formation intensive du maître expert Jurgen J. Maerz, ex-directeur de l’enseignement des techniques de la Guilde internationale du platine aux États-Unis et directeur de Jurgen Maerz Jewelry Industry Consulting LLC. Selon lui, être bien outillé lui permet de pousser plus loin sa créativité et de pouvoir se surpasser. Plus récemment, ses œuvres furent sélectionnées pour l’exposition Delirio y Cordura International Contemporary Jewellery Exhibit au Musée des arts décoratifs de Santiago au Chili.

En haut, à gauche: Claudio Pino; en bas, de gauche à droite: Vena Amoris Collection Platine Pt950/ Ru, or jaune 14k, aigue-marine; Océanide, Collection Nymphes de la mer Platine Pt950/ Ru, or 18k, perle Tahitienne, améthyste, préhnite* Prix : – « Unity Competition - Pearl Best Design Award, 2nd Prize»; Equilibirum, Bague cinétique Platine Pt950/ Ru, or 14k, diamants, carnéliane. Photos par Claudio Pino

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LYNN LÉGARÉ

Depuis maintenant plus de 20 ans, Lynn Légaré pratique le métier de joaillière et enseigne à l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal. Diplômée en bijouterie et en pédagogie, elle crée ses bijoux dans son atelier, à Montréal. L’artiste se consacre exclusivement à la conception et à la fabrication de pièces uniques pour sa clientèle privée, ainsi qu’à des pièces de recherche aux fins d’exposition. Depuis maintenant six ans, elle expose ses bijoux au SOFA (Sculpture Objects Functional Art + Design Fair) à New York et à Chicago et elle est aussi représentée à Montréal par la Galerie CRÉA.

UNE DÉMARCHE ARTISTIQUE INSTINCTIVE

Lynn Légaré conçoit ses bijoux de manière instinctive. Elle a commencé le métier en tant qu’apprentie pendant deux ans afin d’apprendre à travailler l’or, le platine et les pierres. Aujourd’hui, ses bijoux sont surtout fabriqués en or 18 carats et en argent sterling. La joaillière travaille par addition : d’abord, elle façonne des fragments de bijou qu’elle complète ensuite selon une thématique, l’explorant à son maximum en opposant le jeu des formes et des volumes. Elle vise ainsi à défier les caractéristiques du métal. En effet, malgré certaines structures assez imposantes, les bijoux de Lynn Légaré sont légers, équilibrés.

UNE CRÉATION PERSONNALISÉE

Pour la joaillière, son atelier est un lieu de création aussi destiné à ses clients. Il s’agit de l’endroit où elle innove, explore et découvre, accordant à ces derniers une totale liberté. Que ce soit pour la fabrication

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d’alliances, d’un bijou orné d’une pierre ou d’une perle, ou pour se porter acquéreur d’un diamant certifié, Lynn Légaré a le souci de satisfaire les besoins les plus spécifiques de ses clients. Leurs exigences font partie de son processus de création. Elles deviennent un défi pour la joaillière, puisqu’elles devront répondre à un modèle, un budget, pour finalement devenir un prototype jusqu’au bijou lui-même.

UNE PASSION POUR LES ARTS ET LES MÉTAUX

Cette passion pour le bijou lui vient d’un grand intérêt pour ce qui est petit. La petitesse possède ce caractère bien spécial d’être précieux, de devenir artefact ou objet de convoitise. Lynn Légaré accorde aussi une grande importance à la matière première, le métal, fascinée depuis toujours par le passage de ses différents états. Même lorsqu’il est mince et qu’il exige une mise en forme complexe, il n’en demeure pas moins pour l’artisane joaillière une façon de l’exploiter et de le mettre en valeur. Sans aucun doute, Claudio Pino et Lynn Légaré sont des joailliers maîtres de leur art. La bijouterie contemporaine fait partie de notre héritage patrimonial et surtout, les artistes qui y sont rattachés méritent d’être reconnus pour leurs œuvres. CJ Dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, à partir d'en haut, à gauche: Boucles d’oreilles/»Promiscuité» Or 18 carats, perles de Polynésie française, Pièce unique sur mesure; Pendentif/»Cadence» Argent sterling, or 18 carats, turquoise, Pièce unique; Collier/»Tumulte» Argent sterling, or 18 carats, gaspéite, Pièce unique; Bague/»Feux ardents» Argent sterling, or 18 carats, rubis, perle keshi, Pièce unique; Boucles d’oreilles/»Vrilles» Or 18 carats, saphirs, rubis, perles de Polynésie française, Pièce unique sur mesure; Photos par Anthony McLean

The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands

The more things change the more they stay the same. Atlanticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment to quality never changes.

www.atlanticengraving.com 1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc. T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 E: info@atlanticengraving.com

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2013-11-16 8:50 AM

designer profile

Ilan and Peter Srulovicz

Égard Watches: Defining moments with exceptional timepieces Thanks to his father, Ilan Srulovicz, the man behind Égard Watches today, continues to carry on a legacy of outstanding watchmaking. By Bonnie Siegler AS A YOUNG BOY GROWING UP IN BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, Ilan Srulovicz

would always spend time with his father Peter Srulovicz. They loved to discuss and engage in martial arts. “Life is a series of moments, many of which define us as individuals,” says Srulovicz. “Often, when we look back, these defining moments include someone who stood by our side when we needed them the most.” After a move to Los Angeles three years ago (with an extensive 3D modeling background under his belt) 31-year-old Ilan decided to honour the unbreakable bond between him and his father with a watch. “[My father] received so many compliments on [the watch] that we decided to make it a business,” he recalls. Égard Watches was launched in 2012 and since that time, the company has garnered a reputation for creating inspiring, luxury pieces. Even the name of the company is reflective of the strong partnership between father and son. “My father and I speak French,” explains Ilan. “The word ‘égard’ translates to ‘in regard to’ or ‘in consideration of.’ My watches were, and are, made in consideration of my father. Hence, the name Égard and the intention to produce something that a father can pass to a son or vice versa.”

THE ART OF INSPIRATION

Today, Ilan’s father continues to serve as a major source of inspiration for his son’s design process. “The watches are representations of different times in my life,” explains Ilan. “They capture moments. I can’t necessarily put it into words, although to me, the ‘Adoro’ is the watch

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that represents my father most out of the entire collection. Every time I finish a design, he is the first person I approach for feedback.” While special moments and personal memories are the backbone of any Égard watch, Ilan’s creations are also influenced by his personal sense of fashion and style. “My own sense of style is subtle. I tend to dress down, however, I believe that a few simple things such as a beautiful watch and nice shoes can make an outfit,” he says. “People have become quite acute to the smaller, subtler things a man wears. “My first watch design was actually the ‘Shade Blue.’ It’s also the first watch I made available with a limited edition of 50 pieces,” says Ilan of a piece that boasts a 3D layered dial and multiple textures, making it quite unique. Even the logo for Égard, which features two crossed swords, was inspired by one of Ilan’s most endearing memories – the time he spent with his father discussing martial arts. “On a basic level, those swords represent the earned mutual respect between a father and son,” he says. “On a more personal level, the swords represent the years my father and I shared a love for martial arts.”

QUALITY CONTROL

While the Srulovicz family resides in Canada, Ilan currently lives in a beachside community outside of Los Angeles, where he leads the creative process behind the watch designs. The watches are then manufactured in Switzerland and with Ilan responsible for quality control there is a guarantee that every watch is checked multiple times before going out to the public.

The ‘Civil’ series is the brand’s newest collection, set to debut during Christmas with five various designs. “This collection is unique in that it is for an entirely new market,” he says. “I wanted to create timepieces that are unique, maintaining the same qualities of Égard watches but at a more affordable cost. The entire ‘Civil’ collection will have Swiss Luminova hands, sapphire coated mineral crystal, incredible 3D, multi-textured dials and extremely unique cases made from scratch.” In addition to that, Ilan is kept busy with the ‘Passages’ line, which will be out on Father’s Day 2014. Actor William Shatner, a Canadian native who already owns two Égard watches, helped design the watches for the 2014 debut. “He was drawn to our story and quality of watches so we discussed the possibility of working together on a timepiece for him and his family,” says Ilan. “The name ‘Passages’ was his idea and represents not only the passing moments in life but the people you spend your life with. There are two designs coming out, both with very unique qualities but I don’t want to ruin the surprise.” Acknowledging the crowded timepiece market, Ilan says Égard watches still stand out as exceptional and distinctive wrist accessories.

“They take a chance to be different,” says the designer. “And they aren’t the type of watch intended to be loved by everyone. The people who wear Égard see something that expresses an aspect of themselves in the timepiece. A watch has to resonate with the wearer.”

A POWERFUL BOND

Today Ilan still gets the opportunity to work side by side with his father as they design and manufacture all of Égard’s pieces. “I am grateful that I’m here doing something I’m passionate about and able to wake up every morning healthy,” he says. “I can look back and appreciate all the great moments I have had thus far and know that I have more to look forward to in life.” With his verve and vivacity constantly being exposed to the hands of time, where does he see his life in 10 years? “With lots of hard work and continued passion, I believe my timepieces will be a recognizable brand that has a loyal following,” explains Ilan. “It’s a whole process and I am growing. I don’t think I will ever feel as though I created the ultimate timepiece. If I did, my journey would be over and I don’t want that to happen.” CJ

Clockwise from top left: “The Shade Black” 43mm Skeletonized Automatic watch in Aerospace-grade 316L stainless steel, $1,295; “Hunter Blue” 40 x 42mm Swiss Made Automatic watch with domed sapphire crystal top and bottom, $1,595; “Hunter Black” 40 x 42mm Swiss Made Automatic watch with Swiss sellita sw-220 movement, $1,595; “The Shade Blue” 43mm Skeletonized Automatic watch with sapphire crystal top and bottom, $1,295

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4

jvc report

THE REAL VALUE OF INVENTORY CONTROL

Getting a solid grip on your inventory is bound to spell success for your jewellery business. By John Lamont, Director of Loss Prevention, JVC WE ALL REMEMBER WHEN our parents would

tell us, “If you look after the pennies, the dollars will look after themselves.” Today, this certainly rings true when it comes to running a business, especially a jewellery business. There is no doubt that sales is the most important aspect of a business. Without sales, you don’t have a business. Profitability follows close behind sales. I can recall a situation when a jewellery company was downsizing and they were closing one of their main stores – a store that did $4M in sales in one year. I was told that the reason behind the store’s closure was profitability. Although this store had large sales, it also had large losses, unacceptable shrink levels, and high overhead. And while this location was tracked for sales and merchandise inventory once a year, it didn’t have a system in place to track inventory on a regular basis. With $4M in sales, this particular store had a lot of merchandise coming and going, not including what was stolen through distraction and even employee thefts.

SIMPLE= SMALLER

Inventory control has to be an important aspect of your business. Smaller locations use simpler systems, such as listing all of their merchandise on a spreadsheet. As the merchandise is sold or as more items are shipped in, this information is recorded on

the sheet. This kind of system would not work well in a store with high volumes of sales as it could become very labour intensive to keep track of. And if it’s not kept up to date on a daily basis, it would eventually become ineffective.

POINT OF SALE

Some inventory systems are tied to the store’s point of sale, also known as the cash register. The POS system records all sales, all transfers of merchandise, and all of the product that’s received. While this system gives a printout of the company’s inventory on a daily basis, in order to ensure the numbers are correct, the items also have to be physically counted by an employee. If a location has two or three thousand SKUs, this becomes a very large task. And what tends to happen is that whenever a task is too large, people will try their best to avoid it. One particular store in the past held a total of 3,500 SKUs and avoided any type of inventory controls for an entire year. At the end of that year, when an inventory was completed, they had a shrink in excess of $200,000. That came right off the bottom line of profitability.

MODERN TRACKING SYSTEMS

One of the latest inventory tracking systems to come on the market is RFID tagging. It works by having a small electronic chip embedded

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into a price ticket or bar code, allowing a business owner or one of their staff to simply wave a scanner over an entire shipment being received. The scan reads every ticket in the shipment and adds it to the total business inventory. Also, when the merchandise is placed on display in a showcase or into a safe, an employee can scan it and enter it into the software system, which would then print out a list of any items that are missing. This system also allows for a reader to record every time a piece of merchandise is removed from a showcase. This is especially helpful for business owners in knowing which specific products are requested the most and what gets the least attention. If used in conjunction with a camera, this system can also track which particular employees remove product from the store’ showcases. CJ Note: JVC provides this information as a service to its members. JVC does not endorse products, manufacturers or services, and assumes no liability for the use of the products or services appearing in this article. John Lamont is the Director of Loss Prevention for Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), which provides loss prevention to the jewellery and watch industry. If anyone knows his stuff it’s John: he spent 20 years with the Toronto Police Service (investigating many armed robberies during his last six years with the Toronto Holdup Squad) and was a Loss Prevention Manager at Peoples Jewellers for 25 years.

company profile Top left: Mano Rupra, CHRP, PCP, Operations Manager; Bottom left: Devin Rupra, Director of Technical Operations; Below: Kuldip Rupra

“I went from an independent watchmaker to running a company that is known throughout the world with all these great companies’ names alongside it.”– Kuldip Rupra 62

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Generations of experience Kuldip Rupra has watchmaking in his blood. He passed along his all-encompassing passion for the business to his children, adding another generation of watchmakers to his family. By Kavita Sabharwal “WATCHMAKING IS MY PASSION, MY EVERYTHING,” says Kuldip

Rupra, owner of Mississauga-based watchmaking and repair business, TimeRevolution.com. “[This business] was something created between me and my daughter, and we just love what we do.” Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker and comes from a family of mechanics. According to him, TimeRevolution.com has the ability to breathe life into anything mechanical. That confidence comes from years of working with watches. “As far [back] as I can remember, I must have been eight or nine years old, I always used to stand next to my grandfather, watching him repair all kinds of watches,” he says. “At that age, I began to think that when I grow old, I want to be doing something like that. That’s how far it goes.”

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Rupra’s family takes watchmaking very seriously. His mother is the daughter of a watchmaker, his father, his uncles, and two of his brothers are all watchmakers too, both here in Canada and in India. “My [children] also work with me, so it’s the fourth generation of watchmaking in our family,” says Rupra. “In 1929, my grandfather opened our first repair shop in Punjab, India. So [we are] getting close to almost 100 years of watchmaking in our family.” It’s no surprise then, that Rupra decided to get into the business. It all started when he lived in England for seven and a half years, where he worked as a watchmaker for an independent jeweller. From there, he went back to Punjab for a short while before relocating to Canada in 1974, and began working for Lynkar Watch Company in the early 1980s. After a combined 13 years spent at Seiko and Citizen Watch companies while also doing freelance watch repairs from home after hours, Rupra decided to go all in on his dream. He focused on his work as a freelance watchmaker until an opportunity presented itself in 2001 to buy Lynkar, which he continued to operate as a watchmaking and repair business under that name until 2006. In 2007, the company became TimeRevolution.com and moved to its current location in Mississauga, with Rupra’s daughter participating full-time in the business. “It was my daughter’s idea that we should have our name reflect our website, the total package all in one,” says Rupra.

HANDS-ON LEARNING

Although Rupra has no formal training in the industry, he says that experience is more important than formal schooling. And coming from a watchmaking family had him apprenticing from the best at a very young age. The watchmakers in Rupra’s workshop also have years of experience under their belts, and receive ongoing training to keep their skills sharp. “We have six watchmakers in our workshop and the youngest one I have is about 45 years old,” he says. “The rest of the watchmakers are late 50s early to mid 60s.”

TAKING CHANCES

Earlier in his career, it never crossed Rupra’s mind that he would one day own his own business – he attributes this to “a turn of events.” When he purchased Lynkar using all his savings, he took a chance without having any entrepreneurial experience. Rupra did this because he was so excited to have an opportunity to run a company he used to work for. But things didn’t come easy and he had to put up with the challenges of running the new business until his daughter joined the company. Now, 13 years later, Rupra says TimeRevolution.com has progressed “big time.” “When we bought the company, it was a money-losing business,” he says. “My thinking behind it was that I love it and when my daughter started participating in it, we took it a long way. It’s now an international company – these big brands are part of our business. I went from an independent watchmaker to running a company that is known throughout the world with all these great companies’ names alongside it.” Today, TimeRevolution.com is a certified service centre for many renowned watch brands and there is no slowing down for the team behind the company. As far as plans for the future go, TimeRevolution. com is looking to continue adding more high-end names to its roster. “I don’t have to motivate myself,” he says. “My hobby, my work, my profession is all watchmaking. I sleep and breathe watchmaking. I was born like that.” It’s clear that Rupra is extremely proud of what he and his family have achieved in such a relatively short time – his business is the shining result of the talent that runs in his family. CJ C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4

keeping time

THE ART IS IN THE MOVEMENT Overcoming the challenges of maintaining the ever-evolving mechanical watch. By Kuldip Rupra THE WATCH-SAVVY GENERATION of today

has a true admiration for mechanical watches that once existed in the 1950s and 1960s. We have seen an increase in mechanical watch repairs in the service market for some time now and there’s no doubt this trend also exists within the watch sales market. Today’s consumers are more aware of the history of watches and the intricacies of their function – that’s why they’re stepping away from the quartz movement trend of the 1980s.

QUALIFICATIONS The challenge that exists for repair centers in Canada is recruiting qualified watchmakers that hold credentials from recognized schools. What was once a licensed trade in Canada, no longer holds the same prestige. As a result, there are more mechanical watches in the market and less qualified watchmakers with specialized skills. However, this is not the case in Europe, where skilled watchmakers go through formal schooling and have the opportunity to do hands-on training.

The era of the quartz movement was quite disappointing for many watchmakers because they were no longer using their skills to the fullest extent. Many feared that they would not have a future in the trade and switched professions. For some, changing an entire quartz movement lost it’s appeal. Repairing a mechanical movement provided challenge and excitement, which equated to job satisfaction. Although today quartz watches still rule the repair market, the increase in mechanical repair jobs has definitely engaged more watchmakers, allowing them to put their skills to use and for others to seek on-site job training.

CHALLENGES With the increase in volume, we are also seeing more and more complicated mechanical movements being used in high-end watches. In Canada, seasoned watchmakers have to take on these repairs, learn the new technology and then pass on their knowledge. Formal training and development opportunities are not

available in Canada. Manufacturing of these timepieces has also come a long way with upgrades to external components, such as cases, gaskets and crowns. Lower-end fashion brands have taken to introducing their own mechanical watches and these movements usually originate in Asia. They replicate their Swiss counterparts in function but fail to rival their quality and are much more difficult to repair. A well-built mechanical movement is probably one of the only pieces of machinery that can run continuously for five to six years without requiring service or stopping. Most watch fanatics own more than one watch and like the option of being able to pick up a watch and wear it with the expectation that it will be on time. Watch winders keep mechanical watches on time and ready to go. Their popularity amongst retailers and consumers has definitely increased over the last few years and they’re excellent addon pieces for consumers in the market for a mechanical watch. CJ

Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers - Clockmakers Institute.

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

gems + gemmology

COLOUR COMMENTARY

What is the secret behind the ongoing success and fascination with coloured gemstones? By Duncan Parker IN THIS EVER-CHANGING ADVENTURE that is the jewellery business, we are always on a lookout for someone to reveal the latest thing on the market. At the moment, one of the most coveted materials out there is the coloured gem. But make no mistake; this beautiful rock has been gaining steam for quite some time now. The attraction to colour is a natural thing. The more bright and brilliant a gem is, the more attractive it appears. Traditionally, colours like red, blue and green have been the most popular, but any striking hue can make a big impact and with a good understanding of colour, and some imagination, any gem can make people sit up and pay attention. The supply chain for gems is in a constant state of flux. While places like Colombia (for emeralds), Myanmar (for rubies), and Kashmir (for sapphires) have functioned as the conventional go-to places for coloured gems for many years, other locations that are becoming more predominant include Brazil (for emeralds), Tanzania (for rubies), and Sri Lanka (for sapphires). The reason these particular places are at the top of the list for gem sourcing is mainly because of the quality of stones found there. Other factors include the history and tradition of the location. Beyond these traditional locales, coloured gems are being sourced from new locations on a regular basis. In Africa for example, many countries are developing new gem deposits, some of which have great potential, while others are insignificant. Even Canada has produced small quantities of sapphires (on Baffin Island), rubies (in Ontario), and emeralds (in the Yukon). But the fact stands that there is not enough supply to satisfy the demand, and while some gems are excellent, others may not be very appealing. When purchasing gems, the most important factors to consider are the colour and the appearance of the stone. The colour is the most obvious feature of the gem, giving it the delightful appearance that stops most people in their tracks.

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Aside from visible beauty and the (less visible) geographic origin of gems, there is one more factor that’s important to buyers. This is the presence, or absence, of treatments. All gems may have been subject to some form of treatment. Emeralds are conventionally clarity enhanced and sapphires and rubies are usually thermally enhanced. It can be particularly rare to find an untreated gem among those that are regularly treated. Untreated stones tend to generate more interest and fetch better prices than similar gems that have been treated because they are so rare. When a consumer is making a purchase, they will be able to find all of the gem’s information on an identification report. These reports, which are specially produced by laboratories found all over the world, outline the geographic origin of the rock as well as whether or not there is a lack of treatment. One thing, however, that is not found in a report is the beauty of the stone – this is an identification made by the consumer. While the jewellery buyer tends to respond to current fashions and trends, at the end of the day, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. As a result, the demand for colour continues to grow and even though consumers may embrace certain trends, their awareness is driven by the availability of colour. The most recent Dupuis Auction displayed a substantial increase in the number of coloured gems consigned and offered. The demand was highest for gems that were larger, finer and that included reports of origin and treatment. But despite all of this, the strongest selling point is and will continue to be appearance. CJ Duncan Parker is vice-president and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto. He is president of The Canadian Gemmological Association and president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada. An educator in gemmology and jewellery, Parker has has worked with jewellery for more than 25 years.

Who are we... With an emphasis on design, quality, and speed of delivery, Overnight Mountings provides immediate shipment of IN STOCK polished blank mountings and 5 day delivery of semi-mounts or polished blanks in Platinum, Palladium, 10k, 14k, 18k, Silver and 7 different diamond qualities. Recognized as one of the highest quality semi-mount manufacturers in the industry, Overnight confidently offers a 10 day no-questions-asked return policy for all IN STOCK products. Overnight is on the cutting edge of fashion so if your customers are asking for it – Overnight has it for you.

Bridal Selection

New Website!

Overnight provides mountings and semi-mounts for all categories: including color stone rings, pendants, and earrings, diamond fashion styles, gents rings, mothers rings, diamond pendants and earrings, and much more, but it's main focus and strength is Bridal jewelry. Overnight continually releases new bridal designs with highly detailed designer looks – but without the designer price tag. With Overnight’s flexibility, manufacturing capabilities, and speed of delivery, you can order Overnight bridal designs in Platinum, Palladium, 10k, 14k, 18k, Silver and in 7 diamond qualities. Give Overnight's Bridal a try and you will understand why Overnight’s customers have come to “Expect more”…

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7086_OV_CanadianJewellerAdvertorial_Vs3_Revised.indd All Pages

www.overnightmountings.com is being hailed as one of the most user friendly and retail driven web-sites in the industry. With rapid and secure online ordering, access to inventory positions and account information, up to the minute pricing in all metals and 7 diamond qualities, image downloads, frequent “New style” updates, and Overnight’s “search by stone” feature, Overnight’s web-site will help you close more sales! The site is triple key priced at daily metal markets for your customers to view, and will display actual costs when you log in. Overnight can provide retailers images and information for their site, or can provide the entire Overnight site to retailers with the retailer's logos and information.

of only $99 so your customers will know that you are “The source” for all monogram jewelry. Call Overnight for a free copy of this Monogram collection brochure.

Personalized Catalogs Overnight’s 600 page Volume 5 catalog is available with your company name or logo custom printed on the covers – at no cost to you - so you can promote your store brand rather than your manufacturers name. Be proud to pull out YOUR special order book!

Custom Crafted Overnight’s “Custom Crafted” department provides retailers the ability to say “YES we can” to any customer’s special request. Overnight will modify existing designs, change stone shapes and sizes, and make totally custom models for their customers. Overnight can provide CAD renderings and models, or provide hand-made models based on the specific job requirements.

Silver Collection Overnight’s Silver collection offers high quality, fashion forward designs, at very affordable prices. The entire line is IN STOCK for immediate shipment and, as with all of Overnight’s IN STOCK products, the collection comes with a 10-day no-questions-asked return policy. The Silver collection is showcased in Overnight’s 36 page catalog – call for a free copy.

Monogram Collection Monograms are one of the hottest selling categories in the industry and Overnight is the premier manufacturer for laser-cut, high quality Monograms. Overnight manufactures monograms for rings, pendants, earrings, and bracelets, in multiple styles and sizes, and in 10k, 14k and silver, in white, yellow, and rose finishes. Overnight guarantees delivery within 10 business days so retailers don’t have to lose those “close to holiday” sales. Need a display? Overnight provides displays at a cost

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Overnight’s “Authentix” sample line provides retailers alloy samples (rhodium and gold plated) for display in their showcases. The Authentix line has proven to be very successful in generating sales for thousands of Overnight’s retailers. For as low as $14 per sample (when purchasing the full 6ft display) Overnight’s Authentix samples are not only the most affordable in the industry, but they allow retailers to display the latest bridal fashion trends to keep their store current at a fraction of the cost of live samples.

Sales Representatives If you’d like to set an appointment with our Canadian Sales Team, please call Overnight Mountings at 888-731-1111 and we’ll work with you to set up a time for our representatives to come to your store. T: 888.731.1111 | F: 888.222.2121 sales@overnightmountings.com www.overnightmountings.com

10/31/13 12:48 PM

feature

From left to right: Bobby Gunn and Emily Wojna, graduates of Georgian College's goldsmithing program; Giovanni (John) Vaccaro, Beverly Hills Jewellers; Greg Merrall, Georgian College; Phil Payne, CJ Expos president; Garnet Irving, CJ Expos

Giving back Beverly Hills Jewellers and Canadian Jewellery Expos (CJ Expos) have partnered up to create the Vaccaro Family Scholarship for accomplished jewellery students. By Kavita Sabharwal GIOVANNI (JOHN) VACCARO OF BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS has teamed

up with CJ Expos to offer a scholarship to bright, accomplished students of an accredited jewellery design or metalsmithing program during the 2013-2014 academic year in Canada. The first annual Vaccaro Family Scholarship will be offered to the winner of a design competition that will showcase the brightest jewellery students and programs in the Canadian jewellery industry. “We, as the CJ Expos team, were talking about having some form of scholarship for the students because we want to involve them in the industry, and what better place than the show where everybody gathers. We’re the crossroads of the industry,” says Lilie Ford, event director for CJ Expos, Edmonton and Toronto. The Vaccaro Family Scholarship winner will receive a scholarship award of $3,000 as well as an all-expenses-paid trip to the JVC Jewellers’ ball, taking place on November 15, 2014 in Toronto, where Vaccaro will present the winner with the award. In addition, the accredited school of the winner will also receive $1,000 as an incentive per an agreement with the college. All entries will be displayed at the 2014 CJ Expos in Toronto and Edmonton. The winners will be voted on at the Expos by attendees. “They’re the future of the industry, really, so why not bring them in as students when they’re full of passion and have them there? Let them show their product,” says Vaccaro. “And having them show their product to the retailer, this gives them an opportunity to see what’s coming. It gives them an opportunity to see what retailers are looking for.”

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

The theme for the first annual Vaccaro Family Scholarship is bridal jewellery, and entries should have an estimated retail value of up to $1,500, giving contestants a lot to work with. “We’re hoping to have students from each college submit two to three pieces and have the retailers decide on the winning piece,” says Ford. “That really lets everybody know what the retailers are looking for. It’s a win-win for everybody.” She adds that she is hoping word of mouth will increase the number of entries for the scholarship. CJ Expos is involved in every step of the scholarship process. They will execute the advertising, promoting the opportunity, and collecting and displaying the submissions. “We’ll have a dedicated page on our website that will almost turn into a blog that will talk about it, and everyone who registers will be listed up there. We’ll be flying in the winner and look after coordinating all the pieces coming to Toronto.” “CJ Expos would like to thank the gracious sponsor of this scholarship award, Giovanni Vaccaro, of Beverly Hills Jewellers,” says Ford. “Without his foresight and commitment to supporting the future of the industry, this scholarship would not be possible.” “What better opportunity for all of us, to have young, enthusiastic, passionate people who are interested in the industry [there]? There were many [sponsors] we considered for this. Fortunately, John bought into the idea immediately and turned out to be the ideal sponsor. What a great honour to have a scholarship in his family’s name.” “I want to give someone a chance,” says Vaccaro. “Because that's all we really need, a chance.” CJ

Due out Early October Simply the best designs!

Available as Semi-Mounts and Polished Mountings in all metals and 7 diamond qualities. Alloy samples available. Expect More...

T: 888.731.1111 | F: 888.222.2121 | sales@overnightmountings.com | www.overnightmountings.com

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9/10/13 12:43 PM

mining news

BACK TO THE ROOTS

Most of us wear jewellery on a regular basis but do we know where these pieces come from and why are they so significant to us? By Maria Laura Barreto I WAS RECENTLY TALKING WITH A LUXURY

jewellery representative who said that, “We do not just sell jewellery, we sell dreams.” These words resonated with me because, beyond the obvious marketing spin, they do reflect the deeper meaning of jewellery. They also speak to some of the reasons as to why we place so much significance on our relationships to rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. This even opens up some very interesting questions about how we can all be more successful in our pursuit of dreams and, frankly, the business of catering to them. In this column, we will reflect on the main trends in the mining sector that are having an impact on the jewellery industry and vice versa. These trends include the rise of concerns around conflict minerals, highly relevant international programs like the Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development’s (OECD) Due Diligence Gold Initiative, the Fairmined Initiative that certifies artisanal and small-scale gold mine operations, and other important developments in the pursuit of more “responsible” jewellery products and practices. I asked myself, “What kind of dream does a piece of jewellery represent for the modern

consumer?” From my experience, these dreams have evolved significantly over the last few years. In today’s world, our personal and individual dreams are increasingly connected with our beliefs and aspirations for our community and our planet. This means that many people’s attitudes towards what they consume have become more complex and are more linked to ethical considerations that arise from a growing understanding of, and concern about where their purchases come from. In the case of jewellery, the questions around purchasing are no longer only concerned with things like carats or the quality of a gemstone or diamond, but where it came from, how it was produced, who produced it, and at what cost. The story surrounding the production of any piece is becoming a critical part of its value. These perspectives of modern consumers begin to bridge two worlds that previously did not overtly connect – those of the mining sector and the jewellery sector. It’s this convergence of worlds that explains why I find myself (a mining engineer and environmental lawyer with many years of field experience in Africa, Latin

D E C E M B E R / J A N U A RY 2 0 1 4 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

America and Asia) writing for a national jewellery magazine. Admittedly, it is a stretch for us both, but an important one. While this phenomenon is new, I strongly believe that this connection between worlds is here to stay and that we are only at the beginning of this path. This realization is why I agreed to take on the task of writing a quarterly column that explores the market and political trends affecting the jewellery sector. My belief in the importance of these trends is based on lessons drawn from my experience in mining over the past couple of decades, along with my awareness of other industries such as forestry and food, which have faced similar trajectories. It’s clear that these changes are also starting to affect the future of the jewellery industry. Since jewellery is intrinsically tied to our dreams, this means that having success in the jewellery industry will be increasingly linked with making the best dreams possible! CJ Over the last 30 years, Maria Laura Barreto has worked as an environmental lawyer, academic, activist and consultant, focused on sustainability in the mining and energy sectors. She now lives in Ottawa, where she co-founded a consulting company, the Materials Efficiency Research Group.

the new

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