JANUARY 2013
INCARNATE ART APPRECIATION AT
GALERIE MARASSA LE RELAIS DU BOUCANIER AN ADVENTURER’S RESPITE
WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S FIRE
COMME IL FAUT
EMMELIE PROPHÈTE
“Writers are the voice of a generation”
Le Relais du Boucanier
Editor’s Note Dear Readers,
It’s a new year and an exciting time for Haiti. We celebrate several momentous holidays on the Haitian calendar in January, most notably, our Independence Day on January 1st. We commemorate this day with exuberance as the first free black nation. Families gather together to pass the day eating a hearty Haitian favorite, soup joumou, or pumpkin soup. On the 2nd, we remember our forefathers and ancestors on Ancestors Day. And as holidays wind down in other parts of the world, in Haiti Kanaval season has just begun! Each Sunday, rara bands take to the streets painting the town with the music of homemade instruments and joyous voices. Watch for them in the evenings, trailed by people they collect on their parade route. In addition, DJ’s play in public squares each Sunday evening drawing vendors of ice cream, libations, and BBQ. All these activities lead up to the main event: National Kanaval in Cap-Haitien from February 10th -12th. We can’t speak about January without mentioning that it is also the month when jazz comes alive and jazz artist from around the world migrate to our island. Yes, jazz is all over Port-au-Prince this month, oozing out of several venues beginning January 19th and ending on the 26th. This year renowned musician Branford Marsalis is kicking off the International Jazz Festival with a preliminary concert in Jacmel on the 18th. I wish you a wonderful stay on this tropical isle, many of you may become enamored with its people and its beauty and Haiti might emerge as one of your favorite destinations. Let the magical warmth of our people guide, as you meander throughout the island!
Roxane Kerby
MAGIC HAITI
JANUARY 2013
Why Haiti?
38 6 16
Spotlight Where There’s Smoke, There’s Fire
Words in Print Emmelie Prophète: “Writers are the voice of a generation”
Why Haiti? Amy King: Puts Optimism into Action
12 LET’S TALK - ANN PALE Fab 5 Fab Finds of 2012 43
Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Copy Editor Angela Galbreath
Coin du Chef
Located on the corner of Fine-dining & Excellent-service
30
Artmosphere
14 Bamboo Furniture: Environmentally sustainable and Chic 34 Incarnate Art Appreciation at Galerie Marassa 8 24
Escapade The Purity and Mystery of Port Morgan Le Relais du Boucanier, An Adventurer’s Respite
Lamanjay
20 Vert-Galant, Proud to be Different 30 Coin du Chef: Located on the corner of Fine-dining & Excellent-service 28
On the Rise Lily’s Fresco, Elevating a Haitian Favorite
Contributors Maureen Boyer Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kristine Belizaire Christina Jean-Louis Maya Berrouet Isabelle Vasquez Graphic Designer Clarens Courtois Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis Photographer Ludmillo D. Pierre Printed in Haiti by L’ IMPRIMEUR SA Publisher Le Nouvelliste +509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com
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Cover Photo by Frederick Alexis
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by Angela Galbreath photos Frederick Alexis
H
aiti has a magnetic quality that many try to explain. Most who leave, forever dream of their return. It’s been explained culturally, spiritually, academically, and also from a geological perspective. Whatever the nature of the pull - it is most powerful during Kanaval! The reverie of Kanaval 2013 will explode on the oceanfront Boulevard of Cap-Haitien - just a hop skip and a jump from important sites of national heritage like the Citadel and the idyllic beaches of Labadee. One million people converged in the southern city of Les Cayes to dance and enjoy around the clock last year. From the beach, to the streets we collectively ingested the eruption of colors, flavors, and movement that is Kanaval. Per the President’s edict, Kanaval is once again in the provinces and the city of Cap-Haitien promises to escalate the
Cap
“We invite anyone cur ious about the mysteries o f human existence t o experience Kanaval in Haiti.”
Mario Dup Ministeruy, of Culture
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 3
merriment. “Kanaval is the expressive culmination of the Haitian soul,” declares Minister Dupuy. From the costumes, to the dancing, to the live bands animating each massive float, it’s a year’s worth of artistic expression focused into 72 hours. “Kanaval unites all Haitians. It’s a convergence of our culture and it has a flavor so unique to this territory.” Last year, the event’s slogan was Dekole or ‘taking off’. This year, organizers have played off the previous theme to bring us Pote Kole or ‘carrying together.’ And they have added, ‘Yon Ayisyen, Yon Pye Bwa,’ because all the work accomplished together can be null if the natural environment continues to leave the country vulnerable. February 10-12th, Haiti will be even more alive than it is every day of the year. It’s a chance for everyone to come together to celebrate life and experience the soul of this magical country.
4 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Mrs. Stephanie Balmir Villedrouin Minister of Tourism
Dear Readers, I wish each of you a 2013 in peace, solidarity and prosperity. We spent 2012 on the ground always with great concern to recreate the image of Haiti as a non negligible tourist attraction in the Caribbean. We were on all fronts with targeted interventions according to the plan of action. The results are positive. We recognize the magnitude of the challenges, but we remain convinced that the dawn of stability and prosperity begins to shine on this country that we all love. 2013 is already in our midst and our perspectives are already clearly defined. Our interventions will ordinarily focus on the priorities of our action plan namely Training, Regulations, Promotion, and Planning. First, in terms of training, we will continue with the policy of providing support to the Tourism and Hospitality training centers in the country by building a laboratory equipped with a professional kitchen and a student-run restaurant in Port-au-Prince. In addition, we are also proceeding with the opening of the Training Institute in Les Cayes where classes will begin in February 2013. Next, in terms of regulation, the Ministry is committed this year to classify existing touristic facilities. We plan to develop the first touristic police unit that can ensure proper maintenance of touristic sites and assist operators and visitors.. In addition, with regards to planning, we intend to complete the work already started on some sites and at the same time begin working at other sites like: Bassin Zim, Fort Jacques, Bois-Caiman , Hot Spring, the public beach of Côte Arcadins, etc. And finally, with respect to promotion, after Air Transat, we will continue to sign agreements to promote holiday packages with companies such as Delta and Air France. Meanwhile, we will ensure that the country has an active presence in various international fairs in order to better sell the destination. As Taleb Rifai, Secretary General of the World Tourism Organization, said: “Haiti is the soul of the Caribbean.” If the soul is the immortal element of every human being, the destination HAITI must not die. Happy Reading! AYITI, Se La Pou w La!
Chers Ami(e)s Je souhaite à chacun d’entre vous une année 2013 dans la paix, la solidarité et la prospérité. Nous avons passé une année 2012 sur le terrain toujours dans le grand souci de reconstruire l’image d’Haïti comme un pôle d’attraction touristique non négligeable dans les Caraïbes. Nous avons été sur tous les fronts avec des interventions ciblées suivant le plan d’action de nos axes prioritaires. Le bilan est positif. Nous reconnaissons l’ampleur des défis, mais nous restons convaincus que l’aurore de la stabilité et de la prospérité commence à briller sur ce pays que nous aimons tous. 2013 est déjà dans nos murs et nos perspectives sont déjà clairement définis. Nos interventions seront ordinairement centrées sur les priorités de nos plans d’action à savoir la Formation, la Règlementation, la Promotion et l’Aménagement. D’abord, sur le plan de la Formation, nous allons poursuivre la politique d’encadrement des centres de formation en Tourisme et en Hôtellerie dans le pays en construisant un laboratoire de cuisine professionnelle et un restaurant d’application à Port-au-Prince. De plus, nous procéderons également à l’ouverture de l’Institut de formation aux Cayes dont les cours débuteront en février 2013. Ensuite, du point de vue de la règlementation, le Ministère s’engagera cette année à classifier les établissements touristiques existants. Nous projetons de mettre sur pied également un premier corps de police touristique qui pourra veiller au bon entretien des sites touristiques, accompagner les opérateurs et mettre les visiteurs en confiance. En outre, au regard de la question de l’aménagement, nous nous attèlerons à achever les travaux déjà entamés sur certains sites et du même coup, mettre en chantier, d’autres sites touristiques comme: Bassin Zim, Fort Jacques, BoisCaïman, Source Chaude, la plage publique de la Côte des Arcadins, etc. Et enfin, en ce qui concerne l’axe de la promotion, après Air Transat, nous continuerons à signer des accords de promotion de forfaits touristiques avec des compagnies comme Delta et Air France. Parallèlement, nous ferons en sorte que le pays ait une présence active dans les différentes foires internationales afin de pouvoir mieux vendre la destination. Comme a dit le secrétaire général de l’Organisation Mondiale du Tourisme, M. Taleb Rifai : “Haïti c’est l’âme de la caraïbe”. Si l’âme est l’élément immortel de tout être humain, la destination HAÏTI ne doit pas mourir. Bonne lecture! AYITI, Se La Pou w La!
Words in Print
Emmelie
Prophète
By Isabelle Vasquez | Photo by Frederick Alexis
6 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
W
hen meeting award winning author Emmelie Prophète for an interview, I expected nothing less than the friendly and heartfelt welcome that I received from her. Indeed, I had already crossed paths with Ms. Prophète several times in her capacity as the Director of the Cultural section of Le Nouvelliste and I was familiar with her kind and gregarious ways. It was a pleasure to set aside time to get to know this prolific author and talk about her inspiring work. When asked how long she’s been writing, she answers with a smile, “I’ve always written, I’ve always felt a need to tell.” Ms. Prophète recalls writing stories as early as when she was just 11 years old. Her latest novel, Impasse dignité, published in 2012 by Mémoire d’Encrier, is already garnering many positive reviews. The 2010 winner of the Grand Prix Littéraire from the Association des écrivains de langue française (ADELF) explains that, “Each book is a different universe. It’s a different moment in life. I love what I do. I’ve been able to say things that have defined my life. I wanted to write typical Haitian stories with typical Haitian characters, their struggles, their happiness, their idiosyncrasies... Full blown, multifaceted characters, and bring to life individuals that have intertwined our lives and embodied Haitian culture.” Schools in Archaie have invited Ms. Prophète to visit
and speak to children there. “It’s startling, we are all in the same country but in a way, we inhabit different worlds at the same time. These children don’t have access to the same things that we take for granted. They are the ones who would benefit from such events as Livres en Folie the most, yet they are not the ones who attend this national event. What this country really needs is to find ways to share the knowledge,” proclaims Prophète, then recalling the old adage about teaching a man to fish. Through her position at Le Nouvelliste, Ms. Prophète shares that she has the freedom to write about what moves her. When a lawmaker recently mentioned enacting laws on morality, Ms. Prophète could not help but respond by demanding, “What exactly is a ‘moral dress code’?” Noting that more often than not, these laws and rules target women and their freedom. The author is pleased to note that literature has gained a lot of popularity over the past few years in Haiti. Aside from her inspirations, such as Jacques Saint Alexis, whom she describes as one of the best storytellers in Haiti, Yanick Lahens, Gary Victor, and Georges Castera, she mentions that there are many more emerging authors. This is necessary as, “Authors are the ones who write the testimonials of a generation.” According to Ms. Prophète, people are rarely
disappointed in writers, they may be wrong at times but they tell their truth as they see it. “A writer always has a book in progress. It is what allows them to say that they exist.” Nevertheless, Ms. Prophète mentions that it’s not a career that feeds its practitioners well. And so often, a book is written in spurts of creativity in the midst of day to day life. In order to try to remedy this situation, Ms. Prophète, ever the consummate student who has degrees in both journalism and law, attended a seminar in Paris on ‘The economy of culture’. This course offered ideas for how those who produce a country’s cultural works can properly earn a living with their craft.
This country is vulnerable to many things, and it’s important to invest in this sector where there is so much energy. “Books are like pebbles being dropped, they open a debate between the author and the reader, bringing both a bit further. Whether or not you agree with what has been written is irrelevant. In fact, when one disagrees, the debate rages on even longer.” Ms. Prophète, lawyer, journalist, scholar, writer, poetess and also feminist and advocate, is a woman who dons many hats, all in the service of her country and its cultural heritage What is most compelling is that I am still trying to ascertain if her love for her daughters are what drives her to ensure better tomorrows and as well as the love and
understanding she naturally receives from her husband.
“Each book
is a different universe” JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 7
Escapade
The Purity and Mystery S of Port Morgan By Maya Berrouet | Photos by Jeff Kerzner 8 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
weet Haiti is ready to receive eager adventurers with its surprise paradises. The welcoming city of Les Cayes is a gateway to the mysterious island, Iles-Ă -vache. In the marina of Les Cayes, a small boat awaits to transport me to an eco-resort on the far side of this former pirate enclave. The owners of Port Morgan Hotel and Resort, Didier Boulard and his wife Francoise are committed to preserving this piece of paradise for which they
experienced love at first sight. Didier happily affirms that he came to Iles-Ă -Vache for the first time to pass one night under the stars. The Frenchman left the island with a full beard and big plans three months later. On that first visit, Didier found himself on a small piece of earth where the inhabitants were living in harmony with nature. The small population was fishing, raising livestock, and farming on modest plots of land, not asking more than what it could comfortably provide. Francoise visited and was equally smitten with the environment. Between the causes of conservation and preservation, we find
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 9
the Boulard’s engagement with Iles-à-Vache. Together, they devised a plan to bring attention to the beauty of the island in the hopes of maintaining the innate value of its virginity. ‘L’île est la maison’ or ‘the island is a house’, is the mantra that the couple has espoused and been growing ever since they began the construction of Port-Morgan Hotel and Resort, twenty years ago. Taking into account the natural surroundings and the island’s history, they completed a facility with 120 rooms in an adapted gingerbread style allowing for intimacy with nature as well as complete privacy.
10 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
The buildings are enmeshed in native flowering plants like the national flower of Haiti, the hibiscus. The rich soil produces a myriad of natural wonders, including edible ones. At the restaurant, we find as many locally available products as possible. In abundance are the fruits of the sea: lobster, crab, fish, shrimp, and of course, the powerful natural aphrodisiac, conch. The Boulard’s believe that a personal connection with the land brings about appreciation. It’s for that reason that they offer a selection of low-impact activities for their guests to explore the area. Hiking, snorkeling, diving, sailing, and horseback riding tours encourage
visitors to indulge their curiosity outside of the resort grounds. Guests are welcome to imagine the succession of the islands inhabitants, from the Tainos, to the pirates, to former slaves who embraced their freedom even before the country’s independence in 1804. Guests who arrive by sailboat are following in the wake of the bands of pirates who made Port Morgan one of their frequented stop-overs. This part of the territory boasts much the same environment as it did hundreds of years ago, thankfully, the presence of ruthless buccaneers, such as the famous Captain Morgan, notwithstanding. Soaking in the salt water
swimming pool overlooking the sea, it’s a dream to consider this tiny piece of pristine earth in relation to the noise of life elsewhere. The experience is
luxurious yet simple, every luxury provided with environmental sustainability in mind. Port Morgan Hotel and Resort
is located on the Island of Iles-à-vache and can be reached by phone at 3663 5154 or visit the website at www.port-morgan.com
#1 in OFF-ROAD
26, Route de l’Aéroport 2514-1800 / 2250-1800 / 2813-1800
polarishaiti@rhtplaza.com JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 11
Let’s Talk!
By Christina Jean-Louis
Ann Pale!
Illustration by Teddy Kesser Mombrun
Bon Ane!!! Happy New Year! With the start of a new year – it propels us to compile our new year’s resolutions and once again reinvigorate our efforts to make goals and dreams a reality. January is an especially significant month for Haitians. January 1st not only marks the beginning of a new year but also marks the anniversary of our Independence, achieved more than 200 years ago. Then, on January 2nd, we celebrate ‘Ancestor’s Day’ when we remember especially all those who fought for our freedom, serving as an example to the world around us. On January 12th, we commemorate the passing of the earthquake of 2010. The coming words and expression will help you explore what January symbolizes. All Haitian households will be simmering a pot of our signature soup joumou- pumpkin soup And after a mouthful I am sure you will want to express how delicious it is: Manje a bon anpil!: The food is great!
And what makes it so good: Kisa ki nan soup la?: What is in the soup? Vant mwen plen.: My stomach is full. Kijan Nwel la te ye?: How was christmas? Bon ane!: Happy New Year! Nouvel an: New Year Fet zanset: Ancestor’s Day Endepandans: Independence
Esclavaj: Slavery Jou de repo: Day of rest Manje ak fanmi e zanmi: Eat with family and friends Feux dartifis: Fireworks Pwemye nasyon nwa Lib: First Free black nation Goudou goudou: earthquake douz janvye: January twelfth Kote ou te ye?: Where were you?
As always, we will leave you with a proverb which goes back to the very beginning: Fok ou kon kote ou soti pou ou konnen kote ou pwale: You need to know where you come from to know where you’re going. 12 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Artmosphere
Bamboo Furniture
By Judith A. François Photos by Frederick Alexis
W
Environmentally sustainable and Chic 14 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
alking around the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre on Saturday October 21, 2012 for the Artisanat en Fête Festival, I was amazed. Every corner was populated by colorful and unique pieces of Haitian creativity. Then I came across something that really took me by surprise; bamboo furniture made in Haiti by Haitian craftspeople. If you’re like me, you think of bamboo as something that is mostly used in the far east, very far from Haiti, but we were wrong. Usine de Fabrication de Meubles en Bambou/ Bamboo Furniture Manufacturing Factory (UFMEB) is one of several companies in Haiti that builds houses, produces furniture for homes, hotels, and offices, as well as creates decorative items with bamboo. The company’s Designer, Regine Tesserot Fabuis, explains to me that it all started when the Taiwanese government partnered with the Haitian government to find solutions to the deforestation problem. Together, the governments facilitated the opening of the first bamboo plant in the country about 12 years ago, which today runs as a private entity. “Because of the environmental problems caused
by deforestation, the Taiwanese government proposed that we use bamboo to make furniture and artisan crafts instead of using wood. Bamboo replaces itself very easily. Every time one is cut down, another one immediately starts to grow in its place, unlike when you cut down a tree, it’s gone for a long while,” Fabius informs. To understand the im-
another one, but they don’t do that anymore. With bamboo we don’t have to worry about that,” remarks Fabius. “Bamboo also grows and is ready for use much faster than most woods and it’s good for the soil,” Fabuis explains further. “The bamboo plant is ready for harvest after only five years.” The bamboo used by UFMEB is grown in a north-
but it is also great for the local farmers who are now able to take care of their families with the revenue they generate from growing it. And then there are the craftspeople who earn a living transforming the raw stalks into durable and attractive home furnishings, construction material, and art. Fabius notes that each handmade creation can take
portance of Fabuis’ aforementioned words, consider that less than three percent of Haiti’s forests are left. So, bamboo is a very smart idea, especially for a country where erosion and sedimentation gravely affect agriculture, housing security, and fishing. “Before, when someone cut down a tree in Haiti, they would plant
ern town of Haiti called Marmelade, and it is cultivated by local farmers who were trained by the Taiwanese. Since the farmers are independent growers of the bamboo, UFMED consistently buys the plant from them to ensure that the farmers don’t abandon the trade. So, bamboo is not just good for the environment,
anywhere from three days to weeks to complete. A chair, for example, will take three eight hour workdays by a member of their skilled staff to complete. Fabius smile is gleaming as she imagines, “ Bamboo can change the image of Haiti because it can help reforest the country by replacing the
Bamboo can change the image of Haiti because it can help reforest the countryby replacing the use of wood to make furniture and crafts. The difference is that when trees are cut down they are not replaced automatically, but with bamboo each one that is cut down replaces itself rapidly.
use of wood to make furniture and crafts. The difference is that when trees are cut down they are not replaced automatically, but with bamboo each one that is cut down replaces itself rapidly.” To place an order with UFMEB or for more information, call 36386240 or 3722-7457. JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 15
Why Haiti?
16 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
A
Amy King Puts Optimism into Action By Jenny Elie | Photos by Frederick Alexis
eet Amy King, a socially conscious, adventurous southern belle who is enamored with Haiti’s rich culture and stunning natural environment. She’s sharing her love for Haiti by helping put the first Black Republic back on the map as a touristic destination. King is originally from Kentucky, but grew up in southern Indiana. Her first encounter with Haiti dates back to 2007, when she was part of a medical mission team in the rural town of Belle Rivière. Amy assumed that would be her first and last trip to Haiti, but she found herself experiencing a deep and connected feeling to the country long after her departure. This longing led to many visits over the next few years and to Amy recently making Haiti her home. “I was introduced to Haiti briefly in 2007 and it was enough to keep me avidly interested and actively engaged ever since,”
mentions King. King remembers working on the ground in a field hospital a week after the earthquake and shares how that particular event became a pivotal and decisive factor in her continued work for Haiti. “I started sharing, via Facebook, the stories and photos of what we were experiencing. Those posts were the beginning of what has amazingly become a large social media network for Haiti. I have been non-stop connected (and somewhat disconnected to “real” life) since that week,” explains King. Amy spends most of her time focusing on a few projects, among them: The Village Experience, Mountain Bike Ayiti and the Artisan Business Network. The Village Experience (TVE) is an international fair-trade and socially responsible tourism business based in Indianapolis. After the earthquake, King delved into learning about empowerment at the community
level. She has a particular interest in creating jobs and a personal passion for tourism. King met with co-founders of TVE, Anne and Kelly Campbell, and advocated for Haiti to become one of their destinations. Her efforts came to fruition and as of April 2011, TVE has been steadily bringing groups and successfully mixing pleasure with purpose in Haiti. Mountain Bike Ayiti is another interesting project that King is actively involved in. It’s a social enterprise aimed at bringing awareness to Haiti as a biking destination. “I’m excited about establishing Haiti as a world-class destination for adventure travelers,” shares King. Mountain Bike Ayiti is preparing their next upcoming Haiti sporting event, the Pro-Am Haiti Ascent Stage Race, which, in addition to the actual race, will include days of eco-system building, trail enhancement, and cultural immersion (riders will
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 17
finish in Jacmel the same day that Carnival begins). “I am currently living a true intersection of arts, sports and tourism- and I’m loving it!” Amy exclaims, with a wide smile beaming on her face. She is currently Mountain Bike Ayiti’s Hospitality Outreach Director. In addition to these two projects, King volunteers her time with the Artisan Business Network, a shop which offers a wide range of wares and jewelry from the independent ateliers of Haiti. The Network also pools resources to deliver handmade products to customers worldwide. King ‘s involved on the promotional
18 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
side of things, garnering new customers and increasing the market for the products made here. Amy King has very much immersed herself in Haitian culture. Her favorite local foods are rice with bean sauce, super thin fried plantains, and tomatoes, mangos, and avocados fresh from the growers. She also enjoys the two-time award-winning local beer, Prestige and Rébo coffee. She appreciates how tourism can work for Haiti. Her hope is to connect and collaborate with others who have tourism or adventure interests in Haiti.
“I’m completely infatuated with Haiti, and I think a continued push for positive media coverage will help us increase the number of satisfied-travelers who visit this fantastic place.” For more information on The Village Experience, Mountain Bike Ayiti and the Artisan Business network, please visit the following sites: The Village Experience, www.experiencethevillage.com Mountain Bike Ayiti-Adventure for good, www.mtbAyiti.org about Artisan Business Network, ww.artisanbusinessnetwork.com
Lamanjay
V
ert-Galant literally means gallant green. I’m not sure a restaurant can be considered gallant or chivalrous, but if there’s one word that characterizes this bar/restaurant, it’s Bold. This is a bold restaurant, with bold entertainment, and a bold maître’d. Take the facade of the restaurant for starters; it’s painted such a florescent startling color of lime, that one can’t help but take notice when passing by on Bois Verna. Then the restaurant’s placement: downtown. It is currently the only bar or restaurant of its kind existing in an era when other restauranteurs are sticking to the guaranteed
By Angela Galbreath | Photos by Frederick Alexis
Vert-Galant 20 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Proud to be Different
Noel Lebeaupin
customer base of the higher altitude areas of Port-au-Prince. Now consider its owner and manager who left a comfortable high-paying position at Paris’ largest hotel to try his hand solo in this chaotic Caribbean capital. Add the variety of artists and entertainers who grace the stage at Vert-Galant, and the
house, the wood speaks and breathes. Fifteen foot high ceilings with equally tall windows allow hot air to rise and flow out. No iron grills on the windows or doors, they open and close with the original hook and eye hardware fastened onto giant wood slatted shutters. Under foot, period
months to transform the space. A new roof, new staircase, repaired tile, plaster walls, and fresh coat of confident paint render it a supercool setting that’s ready to receive the public starting at 10:00 a.m. every day of the week except on Mondays. The afternoon turns to evening and I still find myself
to light small votives at each table. Eventually, the night’s entertainment begins: a panel discussion about theatre in Haiti followed by a spoken word and spray painting performance. “We work with many bands and organizations. The band Jazzparaz (Jazz isn’t boring, in
result is a truly innovative and edgy endeavor. I arrive at the restaurant on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Branford Marsalis is oozing alto sax out of surround sound system and a group of journalists are huddled around a table having a political debate over a few beers and many menthol cigarettes. Out on the patio a scruffy looking character plugs in his guitar and picks a disjointed tune. I spot the owner, Noel Lebeaupin. “Is tonight jazz night again?” I ask. “No, it’s something different tonight; would you like a fresh limeade?” Noel’s demeaner is both business-like and extremely warm. Feeling at home, I settle in and chill out. The line between inside and outside is blurred at this bistro. A century year old gingerbread
tile further dates the building. Noel bought the place about a year ago and although at the time it was in a state of grave disrepair, it took just five
enjoying the free WiFi and good company coming and going from the restaurant. The electricity cuts out for a breif moment and Noel hustles
English) plays here every week and we have folklore dance classes twice a week. This venu is a cultural outlet where everyone is welcome,” explains Noel,
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 21
sitting down to share a plate of accra with me. As a huge fan of spicey food, I have to tell him that the piklis is some of the best I’ve tasted. Recently on a date, I tried the tilapia with sautéd potatoes and grilled vegetables. The white fish was accented with a cream sauce that begged me to lick it off the plate. I’ve also had the house hamburger on two occasions which is served on locally made wholegrain buns with a side of hand made french fries. Griyo, tassot, and shrimp are also good options enjoyed with traditional rice and beans, salad, and fried plantains. Applause erupt for a young teen who’s taken the stage during a program interlude.
22 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Snapping his red suspenders and tapping his black and white saddle shoes, he’s nailing the Michael Jackson impression flawlessly. As I’m clapping my hands along with everyone else, I have a feeling that I’ve had before: I’m thinking about how happy I am that I stopped by the Vert-Galant this afternoon. Vert-Galant is located at Avenue Lamartinière, can be found on Facebook under the name VertGalant, or reached by telephone at 46 29 86 59.
Escapade
Le Relais
du Boucan
An Adventure
By Kristine Belizaire | Photos by Frederick Alexis
T
he word buccaneer (boucanier in French) refers to pirates who brutally roamed the Caribbean through the late 1600’s. It comes from the Arawak word buccan, a wooden spit used
24 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
for smoking meat. The buccan is one of the ingenious indigenous tools adopted by the clever pirates. Though there are no buccaneers in sight at Le Relais du Boucanier, they would have been lucky to have a relais, or lodge, as
nier
er's Respite
comfortable and accommodating as this. Mrs. Rose Marie and Mr. Jean-Marie Cherestal compose the winning couple who own and manage the retreat. They selected the name for the hotel, because they love to enjoy freshly grilled fruit de mer seaside, just as much as the pirates of yesteryear. They offer tasty grilled aliment at two restaurants on the grounds. The ‘Fleur de Lys’, a modern rustic eatery, is perfect for family-style meals. Customers can enjoy a complimentary continental breakfast during their stay. During breakfast, sip a good cup of local coffee or fresh fruit juice while enjoying Haitian peanut butter and fruit jam served with toast. If you wake up with ship-sized hunger, omelets
and spaghetti are also available. For lunch and dinner, the chef employs a gas grill (not a buccan) to roast a detectible selection of fresh grilled seafood such as lobster, red snapper, and conch, as well as favorites like griyo and barbecued chicken. Regardless of where you come from or what you are in the mood for, you are sure to find something that satisfies your appetite. For an intimate dinner, ‘The Pelican restaurant is truly remarkable. Offering the same evening menu as Fleur de Lys, it turns up the volume with regards to ambiance. The tables are arranged on a terrace built out into the water. The stunning view of the waves gives the allusion of being pulled into the sea. At the bar, ask for their signature drink, the ‘cocktail bouJANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 25
kanier’, a potent blend of Haitian rum, grenadine, lime, simple syrup, and vanilla. It is the perfect ending to a day of exploring the area which is chocked full of treasures. The Relais du Boucanier is located in close proximity to many opportunities for fun in the sun- by land or by sea. The most frequented beach on the southern coast, Pointe Sable, is just a ten minute drive away. The hotel provides a boat for travelers seeking to explore local splendors accessible by sea including the pristine island of Ile à Vache which was a major base of operations for the notorious marauder, Captain Morgan. For adventurous vacationers, take advantage of the many hiking opportunities, or
26 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
visit the city of Côteaux where you can attempt to climb the 500 steps that lead to the Miraculous Virgin. Two more fantastic sites are the “Tiyaya” and “Touyac” waterfalls. And I would be remiss if I didn’t mention two awesome caves, Marie Jeanne and Kounoubwa, all within a short drive. If you are looking for a more romantic outing, rent a boat and cozy up for an awe-inspiring private view of the sunset. Of course, a whole bounty of activities awaits on the hotel grounds themselves. One of the greatest attractions is the swimming pool complete with its own waterfall. Surrounded by a deck overlooking the sea, it offers a harmonious balance between fresh water and seawater and
swimming is a ‘must do’. Stairs leading into the gleaming blue sea provide access for those who enjoy a salt water float. But if swimming doesn’t suit your fancy, the hotel offers a family-friendly game room with games such as ping pong, foosball, and billiards. And for a bit of Haitian culture, guests can relax with the live twoubadou music on weekends that fills your senses with the roots and rhythms of the Caribbean. Starting off as a private home, Le Relais became a hotel five years ago when a friend of the Cherestals’ suggested that it would make a great destination for the tourists of Port-Salut. Just thirty minutes from the major city of Les Cayes, the hotel offers
a round-trip shuttle service to and from Les Cayes. “There are times when customers need directions to Port-Salut,” says Mr. Cherestal, “If you cannot come to us, we will come to you.” The hotel currently receives guests in 30 rooms that are filled with
old-timey beach relics. Feeling as if you are being transported back to the1600’s, take note that the rooms do have modern amenities, such as hot water and air-conditioning. While prices of the rooms vary, the stunning sea views are priceless treasures.
Le Relais du Boucanier can be reached at 3558-1806 or 3554-1806, or www.lebouknier.com/fr or lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com.
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 27
On The Rise
Kristine Belizaire
O
Lily’s
Photos by Frederick Alexis
n a hot day in Haiti, nothing hits the spot like a fresco - a cup of shaved ice covered with a sweet fruit syrup. A common drink found in the streets of Port au Prince, it is similar to the snowcones sold in other countries. Made from quality products, and prepared in sanitary conditions, Lily’s Fresco is the perfect place to sample this Haitian treat. The sweet smells of syrup that greet me inside of Lily’s evoke strong memories of my elementary school days. After school, my friends and I would buy frescos from a man named Gerard. Now as an adult, I often stop at my old school in the afternoons in search of the smiling man who delivered this cool sweet ‘drink’ covered in flavored syrups such as cherry, grape, and my favorite, coconut. Unfortunately, he and his fresco cart have moved to another location. When I meet with Jacqueline Banks (known to her friends as Lily) I see that I have found a new place to indulge in one of my favorite treats. Lily’s Fresco has
Fresco
28 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Elevating a Haitian Favorite
been in business since 2007. As an accountant, Jacqueline grew tired of the work that she was doing. “Life can be so unpredictable,” she reminds me, “I wanted to do something that I could look back upon and be proud of.” After studying cuisine at l’Ecole Hotelière, a culinary arts school in Haiti, she knew she wanted to open a restaurant. “Analyzing the market in Turgeau, I noticed that there were students always walking to and from school in the heat,” she recounts. “I thought, why not open a place where they can enjoy fresco in a healthy and sanitary manner?” Looking around at her restaurant, a cozy spot with walls covered in Haitian paintings and photos of fresco, she can hardly believe how much it has grown. “The restaurant was not the same back in the day,” she tells me. “I needed to make improvements to the building, but it was too expensive to renovate.” Still, she decided that she would start selling fresco, even if she did not have a large space to accommodate guests. With a
snow cone machine, two tables, and a dream, she opened up shop on the balcony. “I did not have much money, and I could only afford to purchase six small bottles of syrup,” she muses. Five years later, Lily’s is an institution in the Turgeau area. Students and adults alike go there to enjoy this traditional refreshment. Buying a fresco at Lily’s is a unique experience. Customers can choose from 12
different homemade flavors that Jacqueline prepares herself. Flavors such as blue raspberry, banana, mint, fruit punch, grape, coconut, lemon, peach, and anisette are delicious. Dare to be different? Mix two flavors together for a unique sweet treat! Banks believes that through her restaurant, she is also educating some of her clients. “On the streets of Haiti, people
usually order frescos by color, rather than the flavor,” she says, “Now I am teaching them how to distinguish between flavors, and better understand the various flavors.” Lily’s Fresco is ideal for a lunch break, offering affordable fast food items such as sandwiches, hamburgers, and pastries. A house specialty is the Poulet Kay Lily, stewed chicken served in a sauce made with her special recipe. The small business owner is constantly thinking of ways to improve her restaurant. In January, she plans to start serving breakfast. She dreams of eventually selling franchises to other passionate Haitian entrepreneurs. “The restaurant business is only successful when done with the heart,” she insists, “without it, there is no success.” Lily’s Fresco is located at 80 Avenue Jean-Paul 2, Turgeau. For ordering information, contact, 22270127 or 36055711.
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 29
Lamanjay
Coin du Chef
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++
Located on the corner of Fine-dining & Excellent-service By Kristine Belizaire | Photos by Frederick Alexis
N
estled behind some of the most luxurious apartments in Port-auPrince is Coin du Chef,
30 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
a restaurant that is redefining Haitian cuisine and the customer experience. Jean-Yves Hakime loves to
entertain his friends at his home, often creating different buffets for them to sample. “What was originally a place to entertain my
loved ones, has grown into a restaurant,” shares Hakime. “I did not expect for it to become what is now.” At Coin du Chef, comfort and serenity await you as you climb up the stairs. Bright red furniture and accents give the restaurant a passionate and warm feel, yet the terrace-like area with lush greenery provides a calming vibe that is a trademark of the Caribbean. In the evening, the candlelight and music render a sensual lounge setting. Hakime takes responsibility for the decor at
“Our buffets are well-liked by patrons staying at nearby hotels such as Villa Creole, and The Ritz,” says the chef, “They know that they will always find something deliciously different every time they dine with us.”
the restaurant, explaining that he wanted to create a restaurant where anyone can feel at home. For the past two years, Coin du Chef has been known mainly for their Saturday buffets, which offer Haitian culinary classics such as Poisson Gros Sel (steamed whole fish), and (grilled goat), as well as international fare such as Jerk Shrimp, Greek Salad, and Ratatouille.
Hakime enjoys the success of his restaurant and wants to cover a new niche in Haiti’s culinary market: high-end dining. Hiring Chef Kristine “Kiki” Dupoux as Executive Chef and mixologist Michou Angus, he hopes to breathe new life into the restaurant. On December 21, 2012,
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 31
the restaurant hosted a soft opening, so that clients could get a taste of the revamped menu. According to Chef Dupoux, tapas are a signature
of the restaurant. The menu features Haitian-fusion dishes, such as skewers, churrasco, salad, and soups. “Our signature dish is the poutine,” says Chef
Dupoux. Poutine, a Canadian dish of fries topped with gravy, is now be served with a special Haitian gravy that will leave you wanting more. “We will also have happy hours on Fridays. Customers can enjoy drinks at a lower price,” adds Angus, well-known for her ChouChou cocktail that won ‘Best Cocktail’ at The Taste of the Caribbean competition in Miami. “The drink,” she says, “is made with rhum barbancourt, and.... chouchou love.” Mondays and Tuesdays are takeout only, but customers are still invited to have a cool drink and use the WiFi as they wait for their meal. The culinary team is not only interested in changing the menu, but creating a new stan-
dard of customer service at the restaurant. Angus is training the staff on catering to clients in a friendly and professional manner. “I want them to understand that serving is a profession that they can be proud of.” She added that providing clients with a great experience can also help them to earn more tips. Coin du Chef is truly a hidden gem in Haiti’s dining scene. Whether you go there for a drink with friends, or to simply unwind after a day of work, you will not be disappointed. Coin du Chef is located at 37 El Rancho Road in PV and can be reached at 37678136.
Choix, Conseils, Services, Ceramex c’est la bonne adresse.
PÉTION-VILLE 14, rue Rigaud AÉROPORT Route des Nimes ROUTE DE FRÈRES Building Quincaillerie Totale
ADVANCE
CROIX-DES-BOUQUETS Route de Santo
Tél. : 509-2510-7095 / USA: 305 517 5451 email: info@ceramex.net
www.ceramex.net 32 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
ART
Incarnate
Artmosphere
Appreciation
34 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Galerie Marassa
at
Michele Frisch & Stephanie Frisch Coupet
By Maya Berrouet | Photos by Frederick Alexis
A
yiti sings her story through her creators. Generations of women at Galerie Marassa listen and amplify the sound throughout the island of Quisqueya and beyond. Gallery owner, Michele Frisch felt deeply rooted in Haiti and saw the richness that the country’s art emanates from a young age. The daughter of an accomplished painter as a mother, she received instruction and inspiration to find her voice in the world through art. Her mother, Marie Josée Nadal, born in 1944, was one of the first artists to attend the ‘Centre d’Art’, Haiti’s the first important art school and went on to become a recognizable name in the Haitian art community.
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 35
When she was quite young, Michele Frisch and her mother opened Galerie Marassa together in 1977. Various great Haitian artists such as Gesner Armand, JeanClaude Legagneur, Louisiane St. Fleurant, Luce Ternier, and Tamara Baussan were among those in attendance the evening of the grand opening on November 23rd. Throughout the years, Galerie Marassa amassed an expansive collection including the works of Ronald Mevs, Philippe Dodard, Tiga, Louisianne StFleurant, and naturally, the works of Marie-Josée Nadal. Today, it’s Stephanie Frisch, Michele’s daughter, who has brought a fresh and
36 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
land. After the earthquake of 2010, Galerie Marassa inspired Miami by sending Philippe Dodard, Manuel Mathieu, and Payas to one of the biggest Latin American Art Fairs, ‘Arte Americas’. Indeed, Galerie Marassa has organized 175 international and national art fairs. Wherever the Galery travels, it carries with it, its roots on the island of Quisqueya. The country’s rich heritage informs the art. Michele herself wears a necklace from which dangles a tiny talisman- a replica of a Taino sculpture to remind her, “That we are a nation of natives able to live in harmony with nature.”
modern look to the gallery. She notes that, “A current and bright outlook is always needed for evolution to manifest.” Within the gallery’s new context at the Royal Oasis Complex, its magnetism draws me in. Entering the space, I feel an excited curiosity - a thirst for discovery overcomes me. An amalgamation of interesting objects from paintings, to crafts, to sacred vodou objects kiss my consciousness and urge you to become one with our heritage. Rainbows of colors and styles awaken the sensitivity of the eyes and heart. Right there among the greats, are brand new names sharing the same mission as the Gallery to push the creative boundaries. We can unravel for example
Three generations of the same family have found love and comfort navigating among Haitian creators. The work of these three sensitive ladies, Marie Josée Nadal, Michele Frisch, and Stephanie Frisch, reveals the capacity to which beauty can be found and shared in Haiti and around the world. Visit Galerie Marassa inside the Royal Oasis Complex at Rue Panamericaine in PV or the gallery by at 3702 4000.
facebook.com/magichaiti
the work of Manuel Mathieu, who in his very subtle messages communicated through strikingly powerful and bold hued paintings. They reveal layers of truth under indistinct shapes and portraits. Expert lighting beckons viewers to the task of absorbing the work of Makeda, a young artist who creates orgasmic pieces with simple objects surrounded by all types of flowers. Galerie Marassa exhibits Haitian art from all eras around the world. In 1994, the gallery traveled to Ecuador for the ‘IV Biennale International de Pintura’. Then in 1998, they shipped works of art over oceans again for an exposition of ‘Haitian Art and Religion’ at the Reriti Art Center in FinJANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 37
WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S FIRE Spotlight By Angela Galbreath Photos by Frederick Alexis & Courtesy of Comme Il Faut archives
W
here there’s smoke, there’s water? Well, Comme Il Faut has built 24 clean water wells this year and plans on building another 61, to make it an even 85 in commemoration of their anniversary. “We build the wells in areas with the least access to clean drinking water,” Jean-Dany PierreFrançois, the company’s Vice President of Public Relations, informs. The company first
38 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Corporate responsibility is more than just smoke and mirrors at Comme Il Faut. In fact, it seems that supporting the community is the fire that keeps this tobacco company burning. In the form of providing jobs, paying taxes, and giving donations, this corporate citizen has blazed a path for other companies to follow their example for 85 years. undertook the well projects with the intention of hiring machinery to drill as many wells as quickly as possible. They soon realized, however, that there were technicians in the local communities able to drill 100 feet deep wells manually, so they chose that path instead. “Our budget can afford more wells this way and the community has greater ownership as well as a few temporary jobs,” shares the VP.
When cholera infiltrated Haitian soil, the communities with Comme Il Faut wells fared better than their neighbors without access to clean drinking water. “We test the water at
each well to make sure that it’s potable,” remarks PierreFrançois. “Then, we support community health workers who instruct the population to further treat the water for
added protection.” Comme Il Faut is also cleaning up the streets with regular donations of wheelbarrows, shovels, and trash bags to municipalities na-
tionwide. Across the board, most of Comme Il Faut’s major donations are given consistently month after month. Take for example their support of an orphanage in Kenscoff. JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 39
“We don’t need accolades for what we are doing. It’s simply our responsibility” The orphanage is home to 400 children and young adults. In addition to their monthly donation, the cigarette company gifted the home for children with a 250 watt generator for Christmas last year. Keeping in line with their values
40 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
of corporate responsibility, this endeavor as well as their support of a professional school in Pétion-Ville, a sports center in Cité Soleil, and schools in both Bel Air and Cité Soleil, happen without any marketing activities whatsoever. “Cigarettes are not to be in the hands of young people,” affirms Pierre-François. “We don’t need accolades for what we are doing. It’s simply our responsibility.” The number two tax payer in Haiti is also the country’s only local producer of cigarettes. “For many years, Comme Il Faut was the number one tax payer in Haiti,” proclaims the VP, later adding that a new telecommunications company with similar values has recently edged them into second place. Comme Il Faut’s 400 direct employees also contribute to the common coffer, while another estimated 6,000
make a living indirectly from supplying local tobacco and the distribution of cigarettes. Something one will hear repeatedly at the Comme Il Faut compound in Tabarre is, ‘Smoke responsibly.’ And this seems to be the norm country-wide where people purchase one or two loose cigarettes on a street corner, but rarely invest in a whole pack because they would go stale. “Smoking is only for my grandmother who has one on Sunday afternoons,” declares 15 year old Lily who lives just outside the Comme Il Faut compound and remembers attending the company sponsored soccer tournament, Coup de Comme Il Faut on numerous occasions. “You have to take care of the community you live in,” states President of Comme Il
Faut, Rick Hicks. “You have to be a good corporate citizen in order to endure as Comme Il Faut has for 85 years.”
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 41
FAB
5
of 2012
Toussaint Louverture Airport The modernization of the Toussaint Louverture Airport has begun. Immigration and baggage claim areas have been inaugurated. And now as arriving visitors enter our magical isle they are immersed in our culture as stunning art work adorns the walls of both rooms, a twoubadou band welcomes them, and there are kiosks that provide them with valuable information. Given the very appealing completion of both areas, once renovated, the Toussaint Louverture airport will be the airport of the Caribbean.
Parc Industriel de Caracol (PIC)
Hôpital Universitaire de Mirebalais (HUM)
In October, the Parc Industriel de Caracol (PIC) was officially inaugurated. The largest industrial park of the Caribbean and Central America represents the completion of one of the most ambitious projects in Haitian history. PIC is projected to generate over 60,000 jobs by 2016. The United States has committed to build a power plant and housing units in the area. The PIC will not only impact the Department of the North but it will also play a significant role in decentralizing the capital.
Slated to become the Caribbean’s largest teaching hospital, the Hôpital Universitaire de Mirebalais (HUM), just north of Port-auPrince, was completed and is scheduled to open in early 2013. This 205,000-square foot, 300-bed facility will provide primary care services to the people in Mirebalais and two neighboring communities with 30 outpatient consulting rooms and six operating rooms. This green technology building will not only raise the standard of health care in Haiti, but it will also impact the economy of Mirebalais.
Royal Oasis
Kanaval in Les Cayes
Royal Oasis, Haiti’s first five star hotel will have multiple effects, it affords the country an opportunity to attract major conventions/meetings and tourists that will stimulate the economy. And more importantly, the stately establishment will play a significant role through its savvy visitors in burnishing our country’s image. It is therefore no surprise that since its grand opening on December 12th, Royal Oasis continues to be the buzz of the town.
For the first time last year the national Kanaval was held outside of Port-au-Prince. The city of Les Cayes was transformed, the quiet streets of the town were made ready for one of the biggest parties of the year, stands were built, the Kanaval route decorated and the streets were overtaken by revelers. For three days, partyers enjoyed the beach during the day and at night they lost themselves in a world of dance and culture. Social classes, nationalities and skin color ceased to matter; in Les Cayes, we are all just Haitians.
By Farah Doura Photos by Frederick Alexis Yes the earthquake of 2010 did cause devastation, yes we shed many tears, yes setbacks were many, yes there is much still to do, yes the journey may be long, but 2012 showcased the resilience and determination of our proud people, and we shall rise. In 2012 many significant steps were taken, many significant infrastructures implemented, many key relationships developed and/or enhanced. The following depicts some of these major achievements.
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 43
restaurants 5 Coins
Haitian cuisine 20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277
Acajou Restaurant & Bar
Café Com' Ça
Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angle Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 2014 / 3444 0607
Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610
Café de l'Europe
Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill
Café Terrasse
Assiette Créole
Celeri Rouge
Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate, PV 3403 0822 Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé, PV 2 940 0041
Babako
Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown, Lalue 2813 1912
BreakTIme
Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin, PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027
French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé, PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / Fusion 81, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 944-1313 88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670
Chez Wou
Chinese Cuisine Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626
Chicken Fiesta
American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2813 9866
Citronelle
Le Christo Villa Russo
Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5, Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387
Angle Rues Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166
Le Coin des Artistes
Domino's Pizza
Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163
Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446
Le Daily Gourmet Cafe
Emina's Garden
Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005
Fior Di Latte
Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445
il Vigneto
HANG Sports Bar & Grill American Cuisine 31, Rue Rigaud, PV +509 2 942 4264
Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707
La Coquille
Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908
La Plantation
French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette 22941 6334
La Réserve - ATH
French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795
La Table de Cauis
Le Paris St Tropez
Fusion Par Historique de la Canne a Sucre 3 449-7407 rachelhyppolite@yahoo.com
Le Toit Blanc
Fusion PASSPORT & VISA Route du Saut # 22
No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid P 4408 0824 mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Cuba. Domi lombians and Panamanians do not need a Haitian visa Villate they holdLe a valid American or Canadian visa. 12 Rue Villate, PV levillate@gmail.com 3400 1212 / 3 402 1212
ELECTRICITY
Les 3 Decks - ATH 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201
CURRENCY
The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) Les Délices Burger The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchan Fastbanks Food or hotel front desks. The current rate able in many 97, Rue Grégoire, PV USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 3646 / 3646 1601 It is advised to1600 convert your home currency into USD b ing since the local rate of conversion Les Jardins de Gérard is not always advan
Fusion 2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 509.29.40.01.90 , 509.29.46.11.11 info@lareserveht.com
La Souvenance
Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893
Le Relais de Chateaublond
Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504
L'Olivier
Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161
Italian Cuisine 88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219
Intrigue
Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772
Le Florville
Le P'tit Creux
Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414
Kay Atizan
Buffet Rue Roumain off Tabarre Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com 3411 5274
17, Rue Pinchinat, PV
3449 5943 PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Look-Nun'sisThai Public transportation not very well organized and is Restaurant folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and available Thai fromCuisine various agencies. Local incoming trave can also arrange cars &PV minibuses with drivers & guide 35, Rue Villate, fers and excursions. 3724 1661
16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227
LunchBox
L’Esplanade INTERNET ACCESS 2 Rue Darguin, PV
Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & lunchboxhaiti@gmail.com Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere. 4 412-3138 / 3 781-0012
44 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Passport is inicans, Coas long as
nge is availe is around
before leavntageous.
Magdoos
Mediterranean Cuisine 30, Rue Ogé, PV 3821-2121 / 3733-2525
Mikaz
Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951
Mozaik
Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939
Océane Bar & Grill
Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt, PV 2940 2449
Papaye
Fusion 48. Rue Métellus, PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678
Pizza Garden
Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Chavannes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200
Presse Café
Mr. Grill
Steakhouse
39, Rue Rigaud, PV mrgrillsteakhouse@live.com + 509 3114 2524 / 3620 4954
Muncheez
Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud, PV 3701 0092
Quartier Latin
The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar Esperanza Building, 87, Rue Grégoire, PV 3774 6729
The Lodge - ATH Fusion
Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870
Tiffany Restaurant
Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman, Bicentenaire
Toftof Restaurant-Bar
Creole Cuisine 39, Rue Lamarre 2949-3939 / 3612-7268 (cell) toftofrestaurant@gmail.com
Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392
Fusion 10, Rue Goulard Place Boyer, PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325
Nana’z Sandwich Shack
Rebo Expresso
Creole and bistro cuisine 81 avenue Lamartiniere (Bois-Verna) Facebook.com/ vertgalant.boisverna 4629 8659
Sankofa Salads
View
77 Rue Grégoire Pétion-Ville Haiti 3992 2222 / 3992 2121
O Brasileiro Social Club Fusion 103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050
Fast Food / Coffee 25, Rue Métellus, PV 2949 0505 Fast Food 43, Rue Rebecca, PV 2940 6262
Vert-Galant
Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux, PV | 3632 7706
general info CREDIT CARDS
Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.
TELEPHONES
Country code for Haïti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.
MEDICAL CARE
The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.
LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT
part of the d 4x4s) are el agencies es for trans-
Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.
& in rooms.
Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.
BANKS
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 45
travel companion
Auberge du Rayon Vert
(Port-Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728
Côte Caraïbe
Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe-ATH (Cap Haitien) hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915
Résidence Royale-ATH
(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 / 2942- 0540
Hotel Beck
Bel-Air, Cap-Haitien (509) 3770-3659 / 3394-0909
Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH
(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 2943-1110 / 2942-6975
Auberge du Picolet-ATH
(Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 / 3438-6357
Hôtel Beaux Rivages-ATH (Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583
Cormier Plage-ATH
cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 / 3804- 6673
Cap Lamandou (Jacmel)
+509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr
Hôtel Villa Ban Yen
(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091
Auberge du Mont Saint Jean
(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789
L’Amitié Guest House :
(Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel) (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582
Hotel Florita
(Historic District of Jacmel) +509 3785-5154 / 2274-2015 info@hotelflorita.com www.hotelflorita.com
(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com
(Port-Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404
Relais du Boucanier
(Port-Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806
Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy (Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800
Le Recul (Camp Perrin)
valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 / 3727-3589
Aldy Hôtel- ATH (Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 / 3741-0532 Hotel Kabic Beach Club (Jacmel) www.kabicbeachclub.com/ +509 3780-6850
Port-au-Prince Allamanda
#30 Angle Rue Metellus et Ogé, PV 3 671 5603 / 3 435 5603 info@allamandahaiti.com www.allamandahaiti.com
Coconut Villa-ATH
3, Rue Berthol, Delmas 19 509 3179 3752 International: 954 241 3699 coconutvillahotel@prodigy.net
El Rancho-ATH
5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707
Habitation Hatt-ATH
Delmas 31, Airport Rd 509 3452 9480 / 2940 0135 International: 954 776-1515 sachasaieh@hotmail.com lamermotel@bellsouth.net
Hôtel Le Jardin-ATH
Cyvadier Plage (Cyvadier- Jacmel)
Ibo Lélé-ATH
(Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com
Port Morgan-ATH
(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www.port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154
Manolo Inn
Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528
(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201
Wozo Plaza
Hôtel du Village (Port-Salut)
(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr
Dan’s creek
(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97
Abakabay
Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou-ATH
ouangabay@hotmail.com +509 3756- 5212 3932-5810
La Colline Enchantée
hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265
Centre
Ouanga Bay
portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo.fr +509 3713- 9035
46 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
9, Imp Hérard, Delmas 75 lejardinauberge@yahoo.fr +509 2813-8008, +509 3486-6966 elsabaussan@yahoo.com, +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503
Côte des Arcadins Kaliko-ATH
kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223
Wahoo Bay-ATH
wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831
Moulin sur Mer-ATH
info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918
Club Indigo- ATH
contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000
Xaragua Hôtel- ATH
lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983
Ideal Villa Hôtel-ATH Delmas 53 # 6 f1berthold@yahoo.com +509-2943-0470
Karibe Hôtel-ATH
info@karibehotel.com 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com
Kinam Hôtel-ATH
info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 ww.hotelkinam.com
Kingdom Hotel
Tabarre 36 19, Rue Sol Solon 3 455-7822 / 2 943-2385
La Réserve Guest House-ATH
+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026
Le Montcel-ATH
(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777 3701-1744 / 3702-7202
Le Ritz-ATH
apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com +509 2943- 0303
Le Plaza-ATH
info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com +509 2814 6000 www.plazahaiti.com
Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610
Palms Résidence
palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 / 3454-0053
Paradis des Receptions & Hotel Frere 29 2 940-6624
Prince Hôtel--ATH
princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422
Art Galleries Collection Flamboyant Galerie d’Art 9 Rue Darguin¸PV Mimv54@yahoo.com.mx 3 909-9231 / 3 555-9398
Expressions Art Gallery
55, Rue Metellus, PV 2 256-3471 / 3 558-7584 admin@expressionsgaleriedart.com www.expressionsgaleriedart.com
Festival Arts
43, Rue Magny, PV 3 551-7311 / 3 401-3171 festivalhaiti@yahoo.fr
Galerie Marassa-ATH
17, Rue Lamarre, PV 3 558-8484 / 4 739-2923 galeriemarassa@yahoo.com www.galeriemarassa.com
Galerie Monnin-ATH
19, Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-4430 / 3 680-3240 galeriemonnin@galeriemonnin.com www.galeriemonnin.com
Galerie Nader
50, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 257-0855 / 3 709-0222 galerienader@hotmail.com www.galerienader.com
Servotel
www.servotelhaiti.com info@servotelhaiti.com +509 2812-7500
The Inn at Villa Bambou Port-au-Prince +509 2 813-1724 www.villabambouhaiti.com
The Lodge-ATH Furcy +509 2510 9870 3458 5968
The Palm Inn Hotel Delmas 31 3, Rue Hatte 3 2 513-4810 / 2 519-0700 www.palminnhotel.net
Villa Créole--ATH
villacreol@aol.com +509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040
Villa Ban-Yen
Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com +509 3420-2091/2941-2091
Visa Lodge-ATH
services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com
L’Atelier Boutique Fondation Theard
Fermathe 59 2 513-9874
Les Ateliers Jerôme
68, Angle des Rues Rebecca & Lamarre, PV 2 513-5362 / 3 705-6825 lesateliersjerome@yahoo.fr www.lesateliersjerome.com
Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com
Go Haiti Tours
info@gohaititours.com +509 2941 0742
Uniglobe - ATH
uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742
Voyages Lumière - ATH voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com
Voyages Plus Cap-ATH
vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484
JANUARY 2013 MAGIC HAITI 47
Air Canada
Car Rental Avis
20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555
Air France - ATH
Agence Citadelle – ATH
Capital Coach Lines
American Airlines
Chatelain Tours – ATH
Caribe Tours
Francheco Agence de Voyage – ATH
Terra Bus
+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.ht
Budget Rent-a-Car
info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445-5900
+509 2229 6000 www.aa.com
Angle Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988
chatelaintours@hotmail.com +509 3701-4570
Continental Airlines www.continental.com
Dollar Rent-a-Car
Copa Air
Blvd Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950
+509 2940 2326 / 29402327 www.copaair.com
Delta Airlines- ATH
Europcar
+509 2943 3582/2816 1666
13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556 Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700 564, Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941
Obonsoins
Napolitano Travel Service
Pharmacie du Boulevard
Multivision.voyage@yahoo.com +509 2941-0110
+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com
Tortugair
+ 509 2812 8000
Air Caraïbes - ATH
Turks & Caicos Airways
+509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com
Airport Express
Multivision Agence de voyage – ATH
Spirit Airlines
+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com
Airport Shuttle Service
Mission Aviation Fellowship SALSA d’Haiti
Aerolineas Mas
chatour@hotmail.com
+ 509 3445 5902
Pharmacies
harmony@harmony-tta.com +509 2813-0533
Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222
Airlines
caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946
Insel Air International- ATH
+509-3791-9209 www.mafhaiti.org
Secom
franchecoav@hotmail.com +509 2940 1168 Goeland Voyages – ATH goelandvoyages@yahoo.com +509-2511 3883
info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777
Harmony Tours & Travel Agency – ATH
+509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com
Hertz
Transborder Bus Lines
Travel Agencies
+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com
www.airturksandcaicos.com
– ATH
napolitanotravel@yahoo.com +509 2940-0750 / 2940-1402
Sans Souci Agence de voyage – ATH mpetoia@gmail.com +509 1813-1564
Uniglobe – ATH
uniglobe@hainet.net +509 3607 1321
107, Rue Louverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 / 3800 3737 1, Angle Blvd. du 15 Octobre & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 / 3808 9050
Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116
Polyclinique 48
408, Auto Route de Delmas OPEN 24/7 + 509 2942-0068 / 3694-2078
ATH MEMBERS Agence Citadelle Air Caraïbes Air France Air Transat / HAMASERCO S.A. Aldy Hôtel Auberge du Rayon Vert B&B Comfy Inn Ballet Bacoulou d’Haïti Berling S.A. / Rhum Vieux Labbé Blue Mango S.A. Brasserie La Couronne Cap Travel Service CARABIMMO S.A. (Best Western) Ceramex S.A. Châtelain Tours Club Indigo
Coconut Villa Hôtel Coles Distributions S.A. Cormier Plage Culinary by Design Delta Airlines Dynamic Car Rentals S.A. / HERTZ Encocha S.A. Francheco Agence de Voyage Galerie Marassa Galerie Monnin Goeland Agence de Voyage Habitation Hatt Harmony Tours & Travel Agency Hôtel El Rancho Hôtel Ibo Lélé
48 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2013
Hôtel Karibe Hôtel l’Ermitage de Pandiassou Hôtel Le Xaragua Hôtel Villa Créole Idéal Villa Hôtel Imprimerie Henri Deschamps Insel Air IPHASA S.A. Jardin sur mer Kaliko Beach Kinam Hôtel La Réserve Guest House Le Montcel Le Plaza Hôtel Le Relais du Chateaublond Le Ritz
Les 3 Decks Montana Hôtel Mosaïques Gardère Moulin sur mer Multivision Agence de Voyage NABATEC S.A. Napolitano Travel Service Navette S.A. Papaye Restaurant Palm Résidence Parc Historique Canne à Sucre Port Morgan Prince Hôtel Quartier Latin REBO Expresso Rêves et Voyages
Royal Oasis Sans Souci Agence de Voyage Secom S.A. SirepTours Société du Rhum Barbancourt Société Labadie Nord (SOLANO) Sogecarte The Lodge The Petionville Club Uniglobe S.A. UNIPRO Visa Lodge Voyage Plus Cap Voyages Lumière Wahoo Bay Beach
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