VOLUME C
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES & HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
VOLUME C
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES & HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
Welcome address by the Mayor
DDear visitors,
welcome to the Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi!
You are in the heart of Western Greece, in the Sacred City of Hellenism, the capital of Aetoloakarnania. Messolonghi, which is known for the Exodus of the Free Besieged, Aetoliko, also referred to as “the small Venice of Greece,” and Oiniades, with its great archaeological monuments and findings, are waiting for you to discover, explore, and uncover their secrets.
In our Municipality, which covers approximately 670 square kilometres, you will find many ancient and modern historical monuments, museums, churches, and monasteries. The area also boasts ancient theatres, castles, and shipsheds, along with stunning natural landscapes such as the famous lagoon, endless beaches, the estuary of the Acheloos River, wetlands with rare fauna, incomparable forests, unique mountain hiking trails, and much more. The tourist guide you hold will help you explore all these attractions.
In the four volumes, you’ll discover all the helpful information you need: a comprehensive tourist guide, an extensive list of local attractions and much more to assist you during your visit.
I am confident that once you become more familiar with our area, it will become a cherished travel destination for you.
I hope you enjoy your visit to the Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi!
Spyridon V. Diamantopoulos
Mayor of the Sacred City of Messolonghi
The Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi, situated in the southern part of the Regional Unit of Aetoloakarnania, is a vast ecological treasure and offers unforgettable travel experiences. It is an enchanting aquatic world next to a legendary city with a rich history that invites visitors to explore it.
The three municipal units Sacred City of Messolonghi, Aetoliko, and Oiniades form a unique entity with the water element as a backdrop. The rivers, Acheloos and Evinos, have played a pivotal role in shaping the municipality’s historical identity since ancient times. The region has numerous archaeological sites, such as Plevron, Calydon, Oiniades, and Alykirna. These sites provide evidence of the fertile land and water resources that early inhabitants used. The remnants of harbours, shipsheds (neosikoi), theatres and markets reflect the remarkable culture that has developed in the region over the years.
In this ancient Aetolian land, there are several sacred sites of significant importance that testify to the historical sequence. Among them are the Byzantine monuments of Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas) Kremastos and the Episcopal Church of Mastro, along with the post-Byzantine churches of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Finikia and Lesiniotissa, Agios Panteleimonas (Saint Panteleimon) in Stamna and the Dormition of the Virgin Mary in Aetoliko. Other religious pilgrimages such as the Monastery of Agios Symeon (Ai-Symios), the Monastery of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Eleousa and Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) in Kleisoura have a remarkable story to share with the visitors.
Amidst the ancient towns and monasteries lies a natural landscape of unparalleled beauty, with the lagoon, the largest aquatic ecosystem in Greece, at its heart. This area is home to a diverse range of inhabitants, including people, fish, and birds. It is a natural workplace for fishermen and salt gatherers (alikarioi), a sanctuary for migratory birds, a breeding ground for many fish species and a field of research and observation for nature lovers and photographers. Due to its significance as a habitat, the area has been designated as an National Park, protected by the Ramsar Convention and is part of the Natura 2000 network.
The landscape is adorned with dunes, salt marshes, salt pans, reed beds and the magnificent Louros beach, creating a truly enchanting setting, complemented by traditional fish farms (ivaria), keel-less small boats (gaita), post-framed wooden houses (pelada) and historic islets. Dioni Beach is an ideal destination for
adventure seekers, offering activities like kite surfing.
The nearby Sacred City of Messolonghi is closely linked to the lagoon and has a significant historical connection to the heroic Exodus during the Greek Revolution in 1821. It’s a city with a strong legacy of heroes and served as an inspiration for Lord Byron. The area has many tourist attractions, including the Garden of Heroes, the Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum, the Municipal Art Gallery, the Art and Literature Centre - Museum “DIEXODOS”, the Museum of the Trikoupis Family, and the Residence of Kostis Palamas.
Cycling along the path from the Sacred City of Messolonghi to Tourlida at sunset provides breathtaking scenery that will stay with you forever. You can also experience this picture-perfect beauty on a trip to Aetoliko, a small island in the heart of the lagoon connected to the mainland by two stone-arched bridges.
Where the mind’s journey stops, the taste experience begins as the palate is stimulated by new sensations, particularly with fish. Gilt-head bream, sea bass, eel, European bullhead, and various types of flathead grey mullet, prepared in various ways, salted or grilled, along with the finest Grey Mullet Roe, will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression. This seafood pairs perfectly with the local tsipouro and ouzo, delivering a delightful experience for the soul.
This location is where your senses will awaken, offering a fusion of visual beauty, flavours, and aromas that embody the region’s cultural identity. The traditional festivities include Ai-Symios and Agia-Agathi, which are listed in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Additionally, there are festivities of Agia Paraskevi of Neochori, Agioi Asomatoi of Agios Ilias, and Ai-Giannis of Evinochori that feature armoured men and cavalrymen and along with the captivating melodies of traditional organ players accompanied by the sounds of davul (ntaouli) and zurna (zournas) preserve the customs and traditions of the area.
The Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi boasts a rich cultural heritage and a history of global significance. With its spectacular natural environment, which is home to herons, flamingos, and grey herons, is ready to reveal its secrets.
Upon the lake, the island-studded, where the breeze of May, grown strong with sea-brine, stirs the seashore strewn with seaweed far away, the Fates cast me a little child thrice orphan.
‘Tis there the northwind battles mightily upon the southwind; and the high tide on the low; and far into the main’s abyss the dazzling coral of the sun is sinking.
There stands Varassova, the triple-headed; and from her heights, a lady from her tower, the moon bends o’er the waters lying still. [...]
(Kostis Palamas, “Fatherlands” poem collection)
The Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi holds great historical significance as it was the site of two pivotal events in Greek history: the two sieges and the Exodus of Messolonghi. The area was inhabited as early as the Middle Paleolithic period and has remained settled throughout ancient times. This is evident from the ancient towns that have been unearthed and will be presented below.
The Sacred City of Messolonghi experienced a period of prosperity in the 17th century as it developed a fleet and became a hub for literary activity. The 18th century witnessed a remarkable intellectual movement, leading to the emergence of many notable intellectuals. During the 19th century, the region played a crucial role in shaping the area’s political, social, and economic landscape, as evidenced by the numerous monuments from different historical periods in the municipality.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES AND MONUMENTS
Prehistoric - Roman times Calydon
The ancient city of Calydon was an important city in Aetolia. Its archaeological remains are preserved on a pair of low hills known as “Kourtaga” near the present-day village of Evinochori.
The extensive archaeological site comprises the fortified area with the acropolis and remarkable urban monuments outside the walls. The site, which is open to the public, includes the Laphrio sanctuary dedicated to Artemis and Apollo, the city’s theatre, and the funerary Heroon of Leon.
Archaeological remains dating back to the Early Bronze Age indicate that the area’s earliest settlement was continuously inhabited until the Roman period. It was abandoned after the foundation of Nicopolis (30 BC) when Augustus, the Roman Emperor, forced the inhabitants to relocate to the new city.
Oiniades
The ancient city of Oiniades was built on the hill of Trikardos near the village of Katochi. It was one of the most influential cities of the Akarnans and is believed to have taken its final form in the 4th century BC. Today, parts of the residential district, theatre, neosikoi (ship sheds), baths in the ancient port of the city, and foundations of the buildings of the city’s agora (marketplace) are preserved. In addition, the tombs of the city’s extensive cemetery have been excavated outside the walls.
The fortification of Oiniades, built according to the polygonal system, has a total length of about 6.5km. In the southeastern part, there was a separate fortified acropolis. The initial phase of the fortification dates back to the middle of the 5th century BC but was later extended.
One of the most striking monuments in the area and one of the most impressive in antiquity is the so-called “neosikoi” (shipsheds), which are to the west of the harbour. These structures were utilized for the hauling, repair, and winter storage of ships the Oiniades Theatre confirms the city’s prosperity and hosts the annual Ancient Theatre Festival of Oiniades.
Plevron
Plevron is an ancient city first mentioned in Homer’s list of Greek ships that participated in the Trojan War. The original location is on the hills of Gyftokas-
tro and Petrovouni, 2km north of the Sacred City of Messolonghi. According to Strabo, the new Plevron was founded right after the destruction of the original city by Demetrius II of Macedon in 235/234 BC, further west and higher than the original. The new settlement was fortified with a 2,360-metre-long wall, while the city’s urban plan was based on the Hippodamian system.
Among the preserved buildings, the late 3rd century BC theatre stands out for its innovative stage, adapted to the fortification wall, the enormous rock-cut water tank, the agora (marketplace), and the cemetery.
New Plevron flourished during the Hellenistic period but declined after the naval battle of Actium in 31 BC when the Romans transferred its residents to Nicopolis.
Alikyrna
The acropolis of ancient Alikyrna is situated near the present-day settlement of Agios Thomas, between Calydon and Plevron, at the “Chilia Spitia” site. The hill is crowned by the remains of a small fortified enclosure enveloping the acropolis and foundations of various buildings. Although the city has been inhabited since the Geometric period (8th century BC), it was most prosperous in the Hellenistic period.
The archaeological remains of Alkyrna indicate that the city was built according to a plan based on the Hippodamean system. In the area, an impressive paved floor depicting dolphins and fish has been discovered in a public bath, and burial sites have yielded abundant grave goods. The tomb of the renowned Aetolian general Charixenos, which stands close to the road, stands out.
Alikyrna was deserted after the naval battle of Actium in 31 BC but flourished again in the 2nd century AD. During this period, the imposing complex of the Roman Baths of Agios Thomas of Messolonghi was probably built. Finds from the ancient city of Alikyrna and the cemetery are displayed at the Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum in the Sacred City of Messolonghi.
Roman Baths (AgiosThomas)
The Roman Baths of Agios Thomas, 2km from the Sacred City of Messolonghi, are located in the region of Alikyrna.
This large mudbrick public bath complex, preserved at a high level of up to 7 metres, was presumably built in the 2nd century AD. It has a T-shaped floor plan consisting of three independent spaces with a rectangular pool and single cylindrical baths. The main entrance was on the north side and was probably monumental.
The strong earthquake of 551 AD, which affected the entire northwestern Peloponnese and Aetolia, destroyed the bath complex. Following this, the site was repurposed as a Christian cemetery with simple pits and cist graves dug in the floors of the cisterns.
Koulia of Kyra Vasiliki - Katochi
The Koulia of Kyra Vasiliki is a medieval tower on a low hill overlooking of Katochi. It was built in the second half of the 14th century. Between 1831 and 1834, the tower served as the residence of Vasiliki Kitsou Kontaxi, who was known as the wife of Ali Pasha of Ioannina, and it was named after her. The name “Koulia” comes from the Turkish word “kule”, which also means tower.
The Koulia of Kyra Vasiliki stands as a square building adorned with four arched openings, one in the middle of each side. A few metres away is the village’s patron Saint, Agios Demetrios, and adjacent to it is the mansion of Goulimis, where a significant battle took place during the Turkish occupation.
The tower was likely erected to control the narrowing and passage of the Acheloos River at this location. It was designated as a protected monument by the Ministry of Culture in 1975.
HISTORICAL SITES –MONUMENTS – MUSEUMS
The Garden of Heroes
The Garden of Heroes is situated at the entrance to the northern side of the Sacred City of Messolonghi. It covers an area of almost fourteen hectares and was initially used as a cemetery for the soldiers of the Sacred City of Messolonghi garrison during the Battle of Independence. Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first Governor of Greece, is credited with the idea behind its creation.
The garden is interspersed with monuments dedicated to prominent military and political figures of the time, both Greek and Philhellene. At its heart stands the monument of Markos Bottsaris, a replica of the sculpture by French artist David d’Angers, created by Georgios Bonakos, and the statue of the English Philhellene Lord Byron, crafted by Georgios Vitalis. The Memorial of the Fallen, a central monument erected in 1838, holds the sacred relics of the fighters. The Garden of Heroes is a repository of national memory, containing historical and artistic pieces preserved through time.
Since April 1859, a reverent procession has been held annually on the night of Lazarus Saturday and the morning of Palm Sunday, starting from Agios Spyridon and ending at the Monument of the Fallen.
Fortification wall - Gate - Statue of Liberty
The fortification wall of the Sacred City of Messolonghi was designed by the engineer Michael Kokkinis at the request of Mavrokordatos. The construction began on 7 March 1823 and was completed in June 1824.
The wall initially covered the entire northern side of the city, connecting it to the mainland. After the Messolonghi “Exodus”, it was almost completely demolished and rebuilt during the reign of King Otto in 1838 in memory of the survivors of the Messolonghi Holocaust. The imposing gate is the entrance to the Sacred City of Messologhi. At its right is a monument bearing the words of the Greek-Cypriot writer Loukis Akritas: “Every free man is a citizen of Messolonghi.” This monument reminds visitors of the great sacrifice made by the Free Besieged.
At the left of the gate stands the majestic Statue of Liberty, which represents a woman with a sword in her hand. The statue, which stands 5 metres tall, is the creation of the Cypriot sculptor Nikos Kotziamanis and a donation from Dimitris and Eleni Tassiou, Greek expatriates from North Carolina, who were born in Evritania.
Municipal Art Gallery (History and Art Museum)
The Municipal Art Gallery is located in the central square of Markos Botsaris and is housed in a neoclassical building that used to be the old city hall. The structure was erected in 1932 when Christos Evangelatos was the mayor.
The museum features a diverse collection of art, including original paintings and copies depicting the Exodus by Messolonghi, portraits of Philhellenes and Greek chieftains, original engravings from 1837 by the Englishman Friedel, weapons from 1826, coins and medals. Notable exhibits include a copy of Eugène Delacroix’s “Greece on the Ruins of Missolonghi”, a copy of Theodoros Vryzakis’s “The Exodus of Messolonghi” by Angelos Kasolas and a work by the French painter François-Émile de Lansac entitled “The Sacrifice of the Mother”.
At the museum’s entrance are the imposing busts of Charilaos Trikoupis and Epaminondas Deligeorgis, two of Messolonghi’s five prime ministers. Also, a section of it is dedicated to Lord Byron.
Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum
The Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum is housed in a historic building with neoclassical features. It was built between 1885 and 1889 as a Municipal Girls’ School on the donation of Constantine Xenocrates, a national patron from Eastern Thrace. The school has operated for many
years and has become an integral part of the region’s cultural heritage.
The permanent exhibition showcases over 1,200 objects from prehistoric to late Roman periods. The exhibits come from all over the Prefecture of Aetoloakarnania and are complemented by video projections and multimedia applications.
Palamas Museum
The Palamas Museum is housed in a two-storey stone building dating back to 1708. The attic features a traditional tiled roof with Byzantine-like tiles. Panagiotis Palamas, the founder of Palamades and a teacher of the Nation, was born here, and the National Poet, Kostis Palamas, lived here for several years.
The museum displays items related to the poet’s life and work, including photographs, personal items, and utensils.
Museum of the Trikoupis Family
The Museum of the Trikoupis Family is located in a two-storey stone mansion built around 1850 in the old district of Agios Spyridon after the original building was destroyed. Among other people, Spyridon Trikoupis and his son Charilaos Trikoupis lived in this mansion. The museum showcases memorabilia of the Trikoupis family, including personal items and photographs. Digital copies of documents, pictures, and engravings reveal aspects of Charilaos Trikoupis’s multifaceted work. The museum’s first floor recreates a 19th-century urban house with bedrooms, a dining room, and offices adorned with portraits, furniture, and artefacts that once belonged to the Trikoupis family.
Art and Literature CentreΜuseum “DIEXODOS”
The Art and Literature Centre - Museum “DIEXODOS” is housed in the historic house of General Athanasios Razis-Kotsikas, the commander of the garrison of the inhabitants of Μessolongi during the Heroic Exodus, built between 1760 and 1780.
Its permanent museum collection spans from antiquity till nowadays, featuring historical and ecclesiastical relics, vestments, rare documents, engravings, and paintings. The “Diexodos” cultural association also
serves as a hub for cultural events, including exhibitions, book presentations, and lectures.
The Byron Society
The Byron Society was established in 1991 in the Sacred City of Messologhi by Mrs Rodanthi Florou and is a non-profit organization dedicated to studying the life and work of Lord Byron. The society also seeks to promote the concept of Philhellenism and honour the Philhellenes who bravely supported the Greek Revolution of 1821.
It is located in the “Byron” building which architecturally resembles the residence of Kapsalis where the great poet Lord Byron once lived. The Society has developed various activities in Greece and abroad, including international conferences, lectures, musical and theatrical performances, and exhibitions related to Lord Byron and Philhellenism. Furthermore, it has established the “International Centre for Research and Study of Lord Byron and Philhellenism,” which is the only one of its kind in Greece and houses an extensive library with 3,000 books in English and Greek on literature and history.
Salt Museum - Tourlida
The Salt Museum is located in the same building that once housed the salt workers from the Sacred City of Messolonghi or the Ionian Islands to cultivate and harvest salt. The building was constructed in 1946 and consisted of five rooms known as the “Chamber.” Over time, it ceased to be used as a dormitory, was transformed into a hay warehouse, and eventually fell into disuse.
Today, the renovated building (on the private initiative of the President of the Art and Literature Centre Mr. Nikos Kordosis) serves as a museum where visitors can explore the history of salt, from its earliest existence on Earth to the present day. They can also learn about the various types of salt, including different colours and granule sizes, and observe the salt cultivation and production process up close.
Trikoupeio Cultural Centre
The Trikoupeio Cultural Centre is located in the renovated engine room of the old Railway Station of the Sacred City of Messolonghi.
Charilaos Trikoupis, a visionary political figure, took the initiative to construct a railway across the country in 1882. The 44-kilometer Messolonghi-Aetoliko-Agrinio line construction began in June 1888 and was operational one year later. The Sacred City of Messolonghi railway station served as the central station of the northwestern Greek network. Today, it hosts theatre performances, film screenings, concerts, lectures, and art exhibitions. | 21
Engraving Arts Centre“Vasso Katraki” MuseumAetoliko
The Engraving Arts Centre - “Vasso Katraki” Museum was inaugurated on the island of Aetoliko in the summer of 2006. The building is located on the eastern side of Aetoliko and is the only museum in Greece and Europe dedicated exclusively to the art of engraving.
The museum houses a permanent collection of wood and stone engravings by the Greek artist Vasso Katraki from her entire artistic career. In addition, the museum contains the artist’s workshop, library, extensive photographic material, and the moulds and sketches of her works, which were bequeathed to her native city. Visitors can also admire the works of other famous artists at the museum.
Folklore Museum of Aetoliko
The Folklore Museum of Aetoliko is located at the entrance to Aetoliko in a renovated stone building that used to be an oil press.
The museum consists of three halls with exhibits of everyday life in Aetoliko during the last two centuries. In particular, there are household items and furniture from an average townhouse, a loom and even fishing tools.
Additionally, there is a specially designed room featuring reconstructions of the façade of a wooden house (pelada), a post-framed house of the lagoon, and a “gaita,” a small boat without a keel, all essential elements of a region strongly linked to fishing. Among the museum’s exhibits are local costumes from the time of the Revolution to the mid-20th century, including two dresses by the engraver Vasso Katraki.
VOLUME C: ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES & HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
| Editorial - Artistic editing
| Photography
| LOUKAS HAPSIS
PAPPA
| Texts
APHRODITI MAVROGONATOU
TZANOPOULOU
| Cover design - Layout - Artistic editing
| VICKY BORA
Co-funded