VOLUME B2
NATURE & GASTRONOMY
VOLUME Β2
NATURE & GASTRONOMY
Welcome address by the Mayor
DDear visitors,
welcome to the Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi!
You are in the heart of Western Greece, in the Sacred City of Hellenism, the capital of Aetoloakarnania. Messolonghi, which is known for the Exodus of the Free Besieged, Aetoliko, also referred to as “the small Venice of Greece,” and Oiniades, with its great archaeological monuments and findings, are waiting for you to discover, explore, and uncover their secrets.
In our Municipality, which covers approximately 670 square kilometres, you will find many ancient and modern historical monuments, museums, churches, and monasteries. The area also boasts ancient theatres, castles, and shipsheds, along with stunning natural landscapes such as the famous lagoon, endless beaches, the estuary of the Acheloos River, wetlands with rare fauna, incomparable forests, unique mountain hiking trails, and much more. The tourist guide you hold will help you explore all these attractions.
In the four volumes, you’ll discover all the helpful information you need: a comprehensive tourist guide, an extensive list of local attractions and much more to assist you during your visit.
I am confident that once you become more familiar with our area, it will become a cherished travel destination for you.
I hope you enjoy your visit to the Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi!
Spyridon V. Diamantopoulos
Mayor of the Sacred City of Messolonghi
The Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi, situated in the southern part of the Regional Unit of Aetoloakarnania, is a vast ecological treasure and offers unforgettable travel experiences. It is an enchanting aquatic world next to a legendary city with a rich history that invites visitors to explore it.
The three municipal units Sacred City of Messolonghi, Aetoliko, and Oiniades form a unique entity with the water element as a backdrop. The rivers, Acheloos and Evinos, have played a pivotal role in shaping the municipality’s historical identity since ancient times. The region has numerous archaeological sites, such as Plevron, Calydon, Oiniades, and Alykirna. These sites provide evidence of the fertile land and water resources that early inhabitants used. The remnants of harbours, shipsheds (neosikoi), theatres and markets reflect the remarkable culture that has developed in the region over the years.
In this ancient Aetolian land, there are several sacred sites of significant importance that testify to the historical sequence. Among them are the Byzantine monuments of Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas) Kremastos and the Episcopal Church of Mastro, along with the post-Byzantine churches of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Finikia and Lesiniotissa, Agios Panteleimonas (Saint Panteleimon) in Stamna and the Dormition of the Virgin Mary in Aetoliko. Other religious pilgrimages such as the Monastery of Agios Symeon (Ai-Symios), the Monastery of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Eleousa and Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) in Kleisoura have a remarkable story to share with the visitors.
Amidst the ancient towns and monasteries lies a natural landscape of unparalleled beauty, with the lagoon, the largest aquatic ecosystem in Greece, at its heart. This area is home to a diverse range of inhabitants, including people, fish, and birds. It is a natural workplace for fishermen and salt gatherers (alikarioi), a sanctuary for migratory birds, a breeding ground for many fish species and a field of research and observation for nature lovers and photographers. Due to its significance as a habitat, the area has been designated as an National Park, protected by the Ramsar Convention and is part of the Natura 2000 network.
The landscape is adorned with dunes, salt marshes, salt pans, reed beds and the magnificent Louros beach, creating a truly enchanting setting, complemented by traditional fish farms (ivaria), keel-less small boats (gaita), post-framed wooden houses (pelada) and historic islets. Dioni Beach is an ideal destination for
adventure seekers, offering activities like kite surfing.
The nearby Sacred City of Messolonghi is closely linked to the lagoon and has a significant historical connection to the heroic Exodus during the Greek Revolution in 1821. It’s a city with a strong legacy of heroes and served as an inspiration for Lord Byron. The area has many tourist attractions, including the Garden of Heroes, the Xenokrateio Archaeological Museum, the Municipal Art Gallery, the Art and Literature Centre - Museum “DIEXODOS”, the Museum of the Trikoupis Family, and the Residence of Kostis Palamas.
Cycling along the path from the Sacred City of Messolonghi to Tourlida at sunset provides breathtaking scenery that will stay with you forever. You can also experience this picture-perfect beauty on a trip to Aetoliko, a small island in the heart of the lagoon connected to the mainland by two stone-arched bridges.
Where the mind’s journey stops, the taste experience begins as the palate is stimulated by new sensations, particularly with fish. Gilt-head bream, sea bass, eel, European bullhead, and various types of flathead grey mullet, prepared in various ways, salted or grilled, along with the finest Grey Mullet Roe, will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression. This seafood pairs perfectly with the local tsipouro and ouzo, delivering a delightful experience for the soul.
This location is where your senses will awaken, offering a fusion of visual beauty, flavours, and aromas that embody the region’s cultural identity. The traditional festivities include Ai-Symios and Agia-Agathi, which are listed in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Additionally, there are festivities of Agia Paraskevi of Neochori, Agioi Asomatoi of Agios Ilias, and Ai-Giannis of Evinochori that feature armoured men and cavalrymen and along with the captivating melodies of traditional organ players accompanied by the sounds of davul (ntaouli) and zurna (zournas) preserve the customs and traditions of the area.
The Municipality of the Sacred City of Messolonghi boasts a rich cultural heritage and a history of global significance. With its spectacular natural environment, which is home to herons, flamingos, and grey herons, is ready to reveal its secrets.
Upon the lake, the island-studded, where the breeze of May, grown strong with sea-brine, stirs the seashore strewn with seaweed far away, the Fates cast me a little child thrice orphan.
‘Tis there the northwind battles mightily upon the southwind; and the high tide on the low; and far into the main’s abyss the dazzling coral of the sun is sinking.
There stands Varassova, the triple-headed; and from her heights, a lady from her tower, the moon bends o’er the waters lying still. [...]
(Kostis Palamas, “Fatherlands” poem collection)
Raywood Ash Forest
THE CULINARY TRADITION OF
MESSOLONGHI
Messolonghi is a city with a rich historical heritage and boasts a culinary tradition that is a testament to its unique character. This tradition reflects the diversity of the landscape and encompasses traditional agricultural practices, fishing, and fish farming, all of which contribute to its valuable cultural heritage. Everything in this area is unique: the array of colours, the waters and migratory birds sheltering in the distinctive flora. Pieces of land, riparian forests, and wet meadows all harmoniously blend, creating a natural paradise that has been a source of wealth for the region’s inhabitants throughout its long history. The region, situated among dunes, rivers, mountains and wetlands, creates a stunning and alluring setting.
The local cuisine is strongly influenced by the landscape and sea breeze, which carries its flavours worldwide. It is rich in iodized white salt, fish, olive trees with their fruits, citrus trees, vineyards, and other high-quality ingredients. These components form the basis of the healthy Mediterranean diet, which is fully expressed in this region.
The region’s focus is the Messolonghi-Aetoliko lagoon, which serves as Greece’s most active fish production centre and the country’s largest wetland complex. The lagoon is formed by the Acheloos and Evinos river deltas and is a vital wetland ecosystem protected by the Ramsar and Natura 2000 Conventions. It extends along a 50-km coastal front from the foothills of Varasova to the bay of Astakos.
The famous “pelades,” traditional post-framed wooden houses of the fishermen, are a distinctive sight of the lagoon. These structures seem to effortlessly float on the tranquil waters, with their courtyard being the very water itself, evoking a sense of gentle swaying. The locals employ a significant fishing technique known as stafnokari, which entails the use of a square net secured between two posts with an umbrella-like structure. This device comprises a thin net for capturing small fish during the summer and a thicker one for catching larger fish in the winter. The fishing net is put into the water, and when fish are spotted, the net is hauled back up.
According to verbal accounts of the locals, the fishing method has been practised in Aetoliko since at least 1500. It has been listed in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Greece.
The stafnokari fishing gear is placed on the traditional wooden keel-less priari boat, which is designed to navigate the shallow waters. Unlike other boats, the priari boats in this region do not have oars; instead, they are equipped with a staliki, a pole that the boat-
men use to push and guide the boat along the waters. The staliki itself is round and thicker at the bottom to provide better stability while in contact with the sea. To further enhance its effectiveness, a small rectangular wooden spike is affixed to the lower edge of the pole, increasing the surface area that comes into contact with the seabed.
This microcosm of the pelades districts, priaria and gaites (small priaria) invites visitors to embark on a delightful gastronomic exploration. It is a journey that goes beyond taste, offering an insight into the culture and history of the lagoon in a territory where the brackish water shapes the flavours of the land and human destiny.
The stunning lake, known as the “beauteous lake” in Homer (perikalles limni), guarantees a truly delicious experience. Within its serene waters lie precious treasures and exceptional nutritional offerings. Fresh fish, oysters, and the unique delicacy Grey Mullet Roe, known as “avgotaracho” and referred to as the “gold treasure” of the lagoon, form the basis of Mediterranean cuisine here. In this region, time is not measured by the clock but is marked by the changing production seasons, including the seasons of roe, salt, gilt-head bream, seabass, and bullhead.
Guided by local fishermen, we explore their daily lives, gain insights into their fishing techniques, and learn about the production and processing of Grey Mullet Roe, a high-quality product.
WHAT IS THE AVGOTARACHO?
Avgotaracho of Messolonghi (Grey Mullet Roe), a product with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and an international reputation, is made from the eggs of female flathead grey mullet, known as “bafa”, which are plentiful in the “ivaria”. The “ivaria” are natural fish farms in the lagoon, marked by posts and nets, where the fish are captured while the water flows freely. In this environment, the fish grow without human intervention in a controlled setting abundant in seaweed, algae, and other marine microorganisms.
During the period between February and May, female flathead grey mullets move in and out of the lagoon in search of food. The lagoon is connected to the sea through narrow passages in the Ionian Sea and Patraikos Gulf.
In May, fishermen employ nets to close off these passages, known as “boukes,” to trap the fish in specific structures. Fishing at the “ivaria” starts from late August to mid-October, marking the spawning season for female flathead grey mullets. The timing of when the fish are trapped in the “ivari” depends on the flow (basia) and ebb (richi) of the waters, which are affected by the moon and wind. As the fish are challenged to escape from these net traps, known as “peires,” fishermen catch them using nets and spears in water approximately eighty centimetres deep.
In late summer and early autumn, fishermen harvest the roe of female flathead grey mullet and extract the eggs to produce Grey Mullet Roe (Avgotaracho of Messolonghi). This traditional process dates back to ancient times, from the era of the Pharaohs, ancient Greeks, and Romans, with historical records documenting its practice in Greece since the 15th or 17th century.
The process of handling Grey Mullet Roe must be delicate and precise. The two long cylindrical ovaries containing the eggs are carefully removed from the fish’s belly using sharp knives. Any rough handling could permanently damage the product.
The meticulous procedure entails gently rinsing the ovaries to eliminate any residual blood and removing the thin, reddish veins on the egg’s surface. The Grey Mullet Roe is then salted for 2-3 hours, depending on the weight of the eggs. While still on the salt, the double ovaries are gently pressed with the fingers to absorb the salt and take on a square shape. After this, the eggs are rinsed and carefully placed into specially designed cages with sieves for aeration and protection from insects. The eggs are then left
to dry and stabilize their shape for a minimum of three days. Throughout this period, the drying process is attentively monitored to ensure that the Grey Mullet Roe maintains a soft texture and acquires a magnificent honey colour.
The roe is dipped in pure liquid beeswax to create a protective coating, which keeps it isolated from the air and extends its shelf life to over a year. For the most intense flavour, it’s best consumed within the first ten months of production.
The roe, which at this stage is loaf-like in shape, typically weighs between 100 - 120g but can sometimes exceed one kilogram. After this process, it is wrapped in a membrane and is ready for sale and consumption.
The Avgotaracho of Messolonghi is a Protected Designation of Origin product, also known as “Greek caviar.” This internationally recognized delicacy has an amber colour, fine aroma, velvet taste, and long-lasting seafood aftertaste. Due to its significant amount of vitamins and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, it is considered a source of energy and high nutritional value. It is among the world’s top-quality products and is a top choice for demanding gastronomy.
After removing the wax and unwrapping the membrane, the Grey Mullet Roe is cut into very thin slices with a sharp, non-serrated knife. It is served alone with a hint of olive oil and lemon or on slices of toasted bread, delivering an unforgettable burst of flavour with each bite. This culinary delight can be savoured alongside ouzo, tsipouro, whisky, or vodka. Furthermore, it enhances various dishes such as pasta, risotto, and salads.
The Grey Mullet Roe is an excellent raw ingredient that has sparked the imagination and creativity of renowned chefs to create inspirational dishes. It can be used in the oven with honey, laurel, soy, grape syrup (petimezi); also in seafood, shrimp, and lobster.
OTHER CULINARY TREASURES
Besides the Grey Mullet Roe, the lagoon is a rich food production centre, supplying fresh fish to the residents. The people of Messolonghi prefer to cook the fish by frying, boiling, or grilling them, demonstrating their culinary expertise. There are various fish species and recipes available.
A variety of fish such as sea bream, eel, seabass, thinlip mullet, common sole, horse mackerel, and different types of flathead grey mullet are used to prepare a range of dishes. These fish are commonly cooked in various ways, including being baked in the oven with garlic, potatoes, and a spicy sauce called “savoro,” which includes vinegar and fresh herbs. They are also used in dishes like “bourgeto” soup, fricassee with celery and egg-lemon sauce, and soups with plenty of onions and potatoes. Other dishes include female grey mullet roe “Kapama,” fried minnow, sea bass with raisins, fried bullheads with eggs, and small gilt-head bream known as Ligda, fried and then cooked in a red vinegar sauce.
The “petalia” is another delicious seafood dish from Messolonghi, and it involves a unique way of cooking fish. During the summer, “petalia” is made using gilthead bream, flathead grey mullet, eel, and other types of fish. The fish are cut in half from the back to the front and from the head to the tail. The two halves are kept together by the belly, salted, and left in the salt for 3-4 hours. After that, they are washed, left open, and stretched to dry. This method allows the fish to be preserved for up to three days. When ready for consumption, the fish is grilled.
Due to the abundance of fish and salt in the area, they are widely enjoyed and make perfect accompaniments to ouzo or tsipouro. The annular seabream is considered the best fish for salting, but other options, such as small gilt-head bream, certain types of mullet, and eels, are also suitable.
Salted fish is a method of preserving fish by covering them in a thick layer of salt. This practice dates back to ancient times and was especially crucial for fishermen in the 1920s and 1930s when no other preservation methods were available for storing their catch for several months.
The best time for fermentation is in winter, a season when the fish are at their fattest and ready to spawn in the Patraikos Gulf, a cycle that occurs three to four times a year. To prepare the fish, they are first cleaned, descaled, and then thoroughly salted inside and out
over the next twenty-four hours. This salting process extracts excess fluids, allowing the fish to be stored for up to three months. The experience provides the knowledge of the amount of salt and the time required.
The type of salt used in this process is Fleur de sel, also known as “Afrina” by the locals. This salt is formed as crystal clear foam on the salt pans when the wind blows and stirs up the waters and is collected by hand. The fish are placed in baskets stacked on top of each other. They are turned over every 2-3 days, and after 10 days, they are removed from the basket. The skin can be easily removed as the salt draws out the subcutaneous fat. Once prepared, the fish should be immersed in lemon juice for approximately five minutes to enhance the white colour and then served with a drizzle of olive oil. After salting, the fish can be stored for up to 40 days and are ready to be consumed after 3 days.
The lagoon of Messolonghi - Aetoliko is a habitat for a wide variety of eel species, and their migration patterns remain a mystery. Eels are not bred in captivity; instead, they are raised in fish farms from wild eel stock. Regardless of location, all eels migrate to the Sargasso Sea, also known as the Bermuda Triangle, to spawn. After hatching, young eels begin their journey by following the Gulf Stream to reach the coastlines of Europe and Africa.
On their journey, the eels undergo a transformation as they instinctively navigate towards the mouths of rivers to transition into freshwater. This journey can take up to three years, a period during which the young eels undergo significant growth, reaching a size of a few centimetres. Upon arriving at the European shores, they still retain their transparent larval form, but as they enter their new freshwater habitat, they adapt and transform into yellow eels.
They live for many years, maybe even fifty. After fifteen years, their flanks become silver, and they are transformed into silver eels, as we are accustomed to seeing them. At some point, they feel the need to return to the open waters and begin the journey to the Sargasso Sea to fulfil their mission of laying eggs.
The eels found in the lagoon are considered to be some of the most delicious in Europe. They are a popular and exquisite delicacy that has a firm place in modern gastronomy. Eel is a tasty, oily fish that is
rich in omega-3 fats and has high nutritional value. The most well-known eel varieties from the lagoon include the “kavatsa”, “souvlomytari”, “vitselouro”, “katharohelo”, and Conger eels.
Eels can be prepared in various ways, such as fried, boiled, or roasted on a spit. They can be enjoyed fried in vinegar, grilled on a spit, or as small grilled eels. Additionally, eels can be prepared in the oven with dill and onions, cooked with lemon in a pot, made into “bourgeto” soup, combined in a casserole with orzo, or enjoyed as open eel “petali,” which undergoes a process of drying and salting before being grilled. For those with refined taste, smoked eel provides a premium gastronomic experience.
The traditional method of cooking eel involves placing some dough on both ends of a ceramic tile. Then, the eel is cut and placed with laurel leaves inside the tile. After that, oil and lemon juice are poured over it, and the dish is covered with cooking paper. Finally, the eel is grilled on the barbecue.
It is a tradition in Aetoliko to enjoy eating eel during Easter. The locals prepare the eel in the shape of an 8 or grill it. To shape the eel into an 8, young yellow eels are pierced in the middle and then fixed into the shape of an 8 before being roasted.
In the second case, thick, mature silver eels, known as “pritspata,” are selected. They are opened in two halves, leaving the backbone on one side, then salted and left out in the sun to attain a slightly sun-kissed texture. After that, they are grilled while being frequently turned until they become dry and brown on the outside but remain juicy on the inside.
The region’s delicious cuisine is complemented by
the iodine-scented shellfish. The most popular variety is the Striped Venus clam, known for its juicy flesh and irresistible taste that no one unmoved. The mussels are usually enjoyed raw with a splash of lemon. In addition, the local cuisine offers a variety of recipes for Striped Venus clams, including steamed, fried in red sauce (saganaki), boiled with red sauce, and served with spaghetti or risotto.
Other shellfish include brown venus clams, steamed hard clams, and fried mussels. There are also seafood delicacies, such as striped prawns in a stew, reddish-brown shrimp, crabs fried with rice, onions, and dill, and king crabs eaten grilled, steal the show.
In addition to the above, salt is an integral part of the lagoon. Salt is regularly produced in the salt marshes of Messolonghi, which comprise at least 50-70 % of Greek salt production. White, enormous mounds of salt, which reach up to 15 metres high, the so-called salt pans, impress with their unique shapes and create a captivating landscape.
The salt is formed through a natural process due to the shallow water, rich natural ingredients, and specific climatic conditions. The slow temperature increases
and intense evaporation cause the salt to crystallize. It is then concentrated in mounds using mechanical means. Before extraction, a thin layer of salt is formed around the pans, and with the wind, this layer is carried away and reaches the banks of the pans as foam. This Greek Fleur-de-sel, called “Afrina”, is considered a fine gastronomic product and is collected by hand by skilled workers after drying.
The production of salt involves continuous coagulation in natural preheaters. Harvesting is carried out by mechanical means in the White Salt Marsh (old National Road Messolonghi - Aetoliko) and traditional methods in Tourlida, where the second salt marsh is located.
This unrefined salt contains valuable metals and minerals, which contribute to its unique taste, authenticity, and ability to enhance local cuisine with the | 27
rich aromas of Greece. It is often combined with herbs such as oregano, thyme, pepper, marjoram, spearmint, rosemary, dried peppers or fennel.
Salt marshes are not just for salt production; they are also an integrated ecosystem where salt is produced, providing a refuge for several species of birds.
The culinary delicacies of the Municipality of the Sacret City of Messolonghi are not limited to the lagoon. The region also offers excellent dairy products like cheese, milk, butter, and yogurt. A notable example is Aetoliko cheese, known as “prentza”, which is a hard, spherical cheese with a distinctive taste. It is primarily used in cooking and is prepared exclusively for domestic consumption.
The Messolonghi cuisine features delicious pies such as “chloropites”, made from Chloro cheese with eggs and salt in filo dough or without with oil or butter. Additionally, the cuisine includes “chortopites”, “kordopites”, “trachanopites”, and the renowned “makaronopites”. A popular snack is fresh artichokes, peeled, salted with the salt from the salt marshes, and enjoyed with ouzo. Some people peel and boil these small artichokes and serve them with oil and lemon.
Interestingly, the fertile plains of Acheloos and Evinos contribute to over 40% of the national citrus production, while the same percentage is achieved by cultivating the Kalamon olives, which thrives around the lagoon.
In addition to seafood dishes, visitors can also enjoy meat delicacies throughout the municipality. Lamb, ewe lamb, piglet, and other delicacies are highly esteemed in Messolonghi and other municipal units. Whether roasted or stewed, it is delightful and aromatic. Skewered meat is a tradition, such as “kontosouvli” or “souvlimas”, “splenandero”, “kokoretsi”, and “tsigarides” (meat fat) of various kinds of meat.
In addition to the savoury meats, many desserts provide sweetness and balance. These include “revani” (also known as rivani or ladorevani), a type of lenten halva made with oil, sugar, and semolina. Spoon sweets like “Katimari” and chestnuts are also popular. Revani is especially significant during local festivals and celebrations, as no festival is complete without Messologhi delicacies.
All the dishes mentioned above are served with local wines, mainly produced from the Malagouzia grape variety, as well as ouzo and tsipouro. The Malagouzia white grape variety comes from the villages of Katochi and Neochori. Notably, Messolonghi is home to two renowned distilleries, Pelada and Trikene, known for producing aromatic ouzo and tsipouro while maintaining their traditional flavours and characteristics.
RICE FIELDS OF OINIADES
This water-loving plant thrives in the region, and with the ideal microclimate provides the perfect conditions for the successful growth of a diverse range of rice varieties, including Carolina, long grain, glutinous, and brown rice. Aetoloakarnania boasts an annual rice production of 120,000 tonnes, with approximately half of this yield satisfying domestic consumption and the remaining portion being exported to other markets.
VOLUME B2:
NATURE & GASTRONOMY
| LOUKAS HAPSIS
