Contents 目錄
34
P.6
International Beer News 國際啤酒資訊 P. 8
Local Beer News 本地啤酒資訊 P.11
Tech Talk 啤酒科技熱話 P.13
Upcoming Events 活動預告 P.14
Coaster Community Coaster智囊團 P.15
Beer Novice 啤酒新手筆記 P.16
Brews & Bites 飲食攻略 P.20
Interview: Greg Koch of Stone Brewing 專訪︰Stone Brewing的Greg Koch P.24
Interview: James Watt of BrewDog 專訪︰BrewDog的James Watt P.30
New Breweries in 2016 2016年度新星 P.32
Tipple Trail: Tai Hong Street 覓酒遊蹤: 太康街 P.34
Brew-IY 自釀天地 P.38
Distribution List 派發地點
4 • COASTER MAGAZINE
24
20
13
8
11
10
January – February 2017 • 5
Local Beer News
Images: BFA
本地啤酒資訊
8 • COASTER MAGAZINE
Coaster Community Coaster智囊團 We love beer, but we’re certainly not the only ones. Our panel of beer geeks represents different facets of the beer world, from a brewery manager to a retail shop owner. Every issue, they’ll be here to answer some of the beer world’s frequently asked questions. Cheers! 我們深信大家都對啤酒世界充滿興趣，於是特別組成「Coaster智囊團」，廣納酒廠經理以至零售店主等業內 各方人士的意見。他們會於每期雜誌解答常見問題，助大家發掘享用啤酒的樂趣，在此先飲為敬！
The seasons are a-changin’ – what’s your go-to style when the weather gets cooler? 轉季了，天氣寒冷時會選擇什麼啤酒？
“I like to match the crispness of winter with sessionable pale ales and lagers – unless I can get a hand-pumped ale. During the holiday season, I check for low-alcohol options so I can drink more.” 「慢慢享受淡愛爾及拉格啤，最適合冬天寒冷的天氣，即時用Hand Pump斟一杯更好。如果放假 的話，會選擇酒精度低的酒，因為可以多飲幾杯。」
– Mark, @thetramlineliquorco
“During winter, I tend to favour rich English styles such as old ales or barleywines – rich malt complexity, fruity yeast bouquet, and an optional sherry or leathery edge. North Coast’s Old Stock Ale is a very pleasant sipper as the temperature drops.” 「到了冬天，我偏好充滿英國風味的old ale（舊式愛爾）或barleywine（大麥啤），後者有著豐厚的 麥芽口感及水果酵母香，有時會透露出雪利酒或皮革的味道。North Coast出產的Old Stock Ale 最適合於天冷時享用。」
– Edwin, @hitachinonesthk
“When the temperature dips, I still prefer my pale ales generally, but I do tend to end the night with something heavier. I love Moonzen Brewery’s Moon Goddess chocolate stout to top off my evening. Of course, I’m also a sucker for any Christmas-themed bottles.” 「即使氣溫驟降，淡愛爾啤仍是我的首選，但之後會來點重口味，尤其至愛門神的 嫦娥朱古力黑啤，當然亦會品嚐以聖誕為主題的啤酒應節一下。」
– Sandra, @coastermag
“Generally, weather does not affect my drinking habits – I still have my IPAs, stouts or sour beers as usual. However, imperial stouts, barleywines and spiced Christmas ales will help me survive the winter. Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch Weasel or Omnipollo imperial stouts are among my favourite winter warmers.” 「天氣不會影響我的口味，我會照常飲IPA、黑啤或酸啤。想要抵抗寒冬，必選帝國黑啤、 barleywine或聖誕香料啤，當中我最愛Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch Weasel及Omnipollo的 帝國黑啤。」
– Liam, @beermehbeer
14 • COASTER MAGAZINE
Okra 110 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun, +852 2806 1038 okra.kitchen
Marked by an understated neon sign, Okra’s fast-rising prestige and reputation for being a culinary hotspot – an extension of Okra 1949 in Beijing – has been earned through the team’s delicate execution of progressive Japanese cuisine, paired with remarkable artisanal sake from all over Japan. The brews: Apart from the standard Suntory lager ($44), we were pleasantly surprised to also find Lexington Brewing’s Kentucky Kölsch ($66) and Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale ($86) on their beverage list. A standout sake for us was the unfiltered and unpasteurised Kaze no Mori Akitsuho Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai ($86/$508 per glass/750ml bottle), brewed with Akitsuho rice native to Nara. The bites: Food options are extremely straightforward; there’s a standard menu with small plates or sharing plates, and a seasonal specials list up on the board. Being sashimi lovers, we opted for the yellowtail with house-made yuba ($154) and the sashimi ume ($268), which includes
three types of fish (that change daily) from Fukuoka. Both dishes were beautifully presented and wonderfully fresh. The dryaged baby tuna ($118) from Okra’s seasonal specials list was really a dish to behold; it’s lightly pink and tender with a crispy, crunchy, breaded exterior. If you’re craving red meat, go for their roasted beef love handle ($208). Thinly sliced, fatty and lightly seasoned, this dish hits the spot without being too heavy. The short: Okra’s dishes are anything but conservative and every plate is impeccably prepared. The experience is enhanced by a team that’s not only friendly and hospitable, but also extremely knowledgeable. With their rotating seasonal menus, it stands to say that we’ll definitely be dropping by again to indulge. 在低調的霓虹燈下，Okra的名聲與知名度正急 速上升。香港Okra是1949年在北京開業的Okra
美酒: 除了基本的Suntory Lager($44)，驚喜 的是他們還有Lexington Brewing的Kentucky Kölsch ($66)和Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale ($86)。令我們印象深刻的清酒是由來自奈良的 秋津穂米所製，且未經過濾和巴士德消毒的Kaze no Mori Akitsuho Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai ($86一杯/$508一支750毫升樽裝)。 美饌: 食物選擇非常簡潔直接，顧客可以選擇包 括單點菜式和分享拼盤的基本菜單，或是版上所 列的時令菜式。喜歡刺身的我們點了油甘魚配自 家製腐竹($154)和包含三種福岡魚類(每天轉換) 的刺身拼盤($268)。兩款美食均色香味美，鮮 味無比。Okra的時令菜式，乾式熟成小吞拿魚 ($118)，是真正的大師之作，鮮嫩粉紅的魚肉與 鬆脆的炸皮完美融合。如果您較喜愛紅肉，點個 香烤牛腰肉($208)嘗嘗吧。輕輕調味的薄切牛肉 脂肪均勻，味道豐而不膩。 美談: Okra的食物毫不守舊，且每道菜都無懈可 擊。員工不單友善好客，亦對他們的食品暸解深 入。加上不斷更新的時令餐牌，我們定會再次光 臨享用美點。
分店，專業的店員一直用心炮製日新月異的日式 美食，還有精製的日本清酒供應。
January – February 2017 • 17
BlackSalt 14 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, +852 3702 1237 blacksalt.com.hk
Chef-owner Taran Chadha brings Asian fusion cuisine to a spicier level in this unpretentious little nook on Sai Ying Pun’s favourite cul-de-sac. Be sure to call before making the uphill trek, as they tend to be fully booked most nights. The brews: We were delighted to find a selection of beers from Kowloon Bay Brewery ($48-88) including their glutenfree option, as well as one of our personal favourites from New Zealand, the crisp and uniquely refreshing Yeastie Boys Gunnamatta Earl Grey IPA ($78). Give BlackSalt’s homemade salty lassi ($48) a try as well, as it really sets up the palate in preparation for a flavourful culinary journey. The bites: Straight off the bat, we were greeted with a smile and a complimentary serving of crisp pappadams. We start off with their appetising barramundi fishcakes ($118), marinated in turmeric and blanketed
18 • COASTER MAGAZINE
with an intriguing octopus coconut curry. BlackSalt’s hilariously named lamb rhapsody ($168) is a gorgeous dish with several different cuts of the meat over biryani rice. And we couldn’t walk away without trying their famous chicken tikka masala ($168/288 for half/full chicken), which was fall-off-the-bone tender, served with warm flatbread and a chopped salad. If you’ve still got room for dessert, opt for their Maldivian banana fritters ($58). The short: It’s a one-man show in the kitchen, so the dishes understandably take a while to arrive, but trust us – it’s worth the wait. If you’re not afraid of a little heat, be sure to request seating at the bar to watch all the magic in action. 在西營盤有名胡同內的這所簡樸小店，身兼店長 與總廚的 Taran Chadha把亞洲融合菜提升至更 高且更「辣」的層次。由於平日晚上經常滿座， 因此到這裡朝聖前記緊先致電預約。
美酒: 我們很高興能在這裡找到九龍灣酒廠的 一系列啤酒產品($48-88)，包括無麩酒品與我 們的最愛——冰涼清新的紐西蘭Yeastie Boys Gunnamatta Earl Grey IPA ($78)。另外，記得 要一試BlackSalt的獨特鹹乳酪($48)，這飲品定 能讓您胃口大開，好讓您準備大快朵頤。 美饌: 我們甫進店，歡迎我們的除了店員的燦爛 笑容，還有免費送贈的脆胡椒薄餅。我們點了開 胃的炸銀鰽魚餅($118)，整道菜以薑黃醃製，配 上椰子咖哩八爪魚，令人垂涎三尺。BlackSalt這 裡有一道名字很有趣的菜式——「羊肉狂想曲」 ，不同部分的美味羊肉配以香氣迫人的印度香料 炒飯。離開前不得不試的菜還有著名的瑪薩拉雞 ($168半隻/$288全隻)，多汁軟稔的雞肉能跟附 贈的薄餅和沙律一起享用。如果您的胃袋還有餘 裕的話，嘗嘗甜點馬爾代夫炸香蕉($58)吧。 美談: 廚房只有Taran一人，所以食物要稍等一 會才能送上，不過相信我們吧，您的等待絕對物 有所值。如果您不怕廚房的一點熱度，請店員為 您安排吧檯坐位，在那裡能夠欣賞總廚神乎奇技 的煮食表演。
C: Tell us about your book Business for Punks. JW: Well, we almost fell into the philosophy I outline in Business for Punks accidentally. When we set up, we had no idea how to run a business, how to manage people, how to distribute beer, any of those things… That worked in our favour because we didn’t know how things were meant to be done, so we just did them in our own way and on our own terms. Everything was on the line for us, so we had no option but to make it work. The biggest thing we took from punk was that deeply ingrained DIY ethos – being reluctant to depend on anyone for anything, learning the skills we need to do things ourselves. You can only defeat the system if you can live outside the system – that’s the punk influence on our business. We took independent bank finance; we didn’t sell out to a bigger company. We’ve got a community of 50,000 “Equity Punks” – so we’re owned by people who love the beer as much as we do, which means we don’t have to compromise.
28 • COASTER MAGAZINE
C: We’ve seen a spate of brewery sellouts in the past couple years. What do you think about that? JW: The mega-international global beer corporations over the last 40 to 50 years have destroyed the very essence of beer. They’ve turned something amazing into a lowest-common-denominator commodity by taking the taste, the flavour, the value out of the experience. They’ve dumbed it down and spent billions of dollars on advertising trying to convince people that this insipid fallacy is what beer actually should be. Craft beer started as a revolt against everything that mass-market industrial beer stood for – it’s a complete antithesis, focused on the quality, the people, the beer, the flavour, the ingredients… Those two things are just so, so opposed. It’s like Darth Vader adopting the Little Mermaid – they’re that far apart from an ideological perspective.
C: 請介紹一下你們的著作 《Business for Punks》。 JW: 書中所提及的經營哲學，完全是誤打誤撞出 來的。最初成立之時，對於如何經營、管理員 工、分銷啤酒…根本毫無概念。這樣反而更好， 既然不知道該怎麼做，倒不如用自己的方式，因 時制宜。我們每一步都是兵行險著，但仍要繼續 堅持下去。 在龐克文化之中，我們認為最重要的一點是 「DIY」精神：凡事不要依賴任何人，自己 的事自己做；若要擊倒體制，先要離開體 制。BrewDog以這種龐克精神為本，不受銀行 掌控，亦沒有「賣身」給大公司，所推行的認股 計劃「Equity For Punks」更成功向50,000人集 資──BrewDog正是屬於這些跟我們同樣熱愛 啤酒的人。 C: 過去幾年有大量酒廠被收購，你對此有何看 法？ JW: 在過去四、五十年內，那些超大型國際啤酒 商徹底扭曲了啤酒的本質，為迎合普羅大眾，降 低味道和口感的標準，貶低啤酒本身的價值。酒 商豪擲數十億元登廣告，宣傳他們毫無特色的淡 味啤酒，嘗試說服大家「這才是正常的啤酒」 ，真荒謬。 精釀啤酒的存在，就是為了抗衡大量生產的商 業啤酒。不論是品質、客群、風格、味道或原 料，兩者完全相反，好比黑武士與小魚仙一樣， 毫不相干。
C: Do you think the term “craft beer” is still worthwhile today? JW: Less and less. For me, where we should shift our focus is towards “independent craft beer” – you have all these arguments about what’s craft or not, whereas independence is black or white. We see things like the Brooklyn-Kirin deal, where they bought a stake of 24.5% just to stay under the Brewers’ Association definition in the US of 25%, which is as cynical as it is ill-conceived. Independence has got to be where companies like ours hang our hats. C: Where do you see things heading in the beer scene? JW: Longer term, I’ve got no idea. We get to decide the beers we make, how we make and sell them, and how we treat our staff – everything else is up to the market. As long as we’re making beers in the right way and focusing on our people, I don’t care what size we are. Wherever we get is where we’re supposed to be. I barely know what I’m going to do in five weeks’ time, let alone five years!
C: 今時今日，你認為「精釀啤酒」這名稱 仍有價值嗎？ JW: 價值愈來愈低。大家應將重心轉移至「獨立精釀啤 酒」，經常有人爭論某啤酒是不是「精釀」，但「獨 立」與否就較易分辨。以日本酒商麒麟為例，最近收購 了精釀酒廠Brooklyn Brewery的 24.5%股份，剛好符 合美國釀酒商協會對「獨立」精釀啤酒之定義。（譯者 按：根據協會標準，若某酒廠超過25%股權被其他酒商 收購，則不可被稱為「精釀啤酒廠」）──如此巧合， 實在令人質疑。我深信，BrewDog絕對稱得上是「獨 立」的代表。 C: 啤酒界將會如何發展？ JW: 長遠的事，我無法預料。至於所釀的酒款、釀造方 法、銷售策略以至善待員工的方式，這一切皆在我們掌 握之中，其他就交由市場決定吧。我不在乎酒廠的規模 大小，只堅持以正確的方式釀酒，與廣大啤迷分享。 船到橋頭自然直，未來五星期要做什麼，我根本毫無頭 緒，更何況五年呢？
January – February 2017 • 29
Distribution Network 派發地點
Hong Kong 65 Peel Assembly Back Alley Beef & Liberty (Central) Beeger Beer & Fish (Tai Po) Boom Café Boomshack The Bottle Shop (Central) The Bottle Shop (Sai Kung) Bound By Hillywood BrewDog Casa Cave by Brewcraftershk CityBrew CNB Cellar Coedo Taproom The Continental Cordis Hotel Craft Brew & Co. Central Craft Brew & Co. Kennedy Town Craft Brew & Co. Sai Ying Pun Craftissimo (Sheung Wan) Craftissimo (Tsim Sha Tsui) Crafty Cow Excelsior Hotel Farmar Feather & Bone Fleur de Sel The Flying Winemaker Ga Gi Nang The Globe HK Brewcraft IC Beer Keyaki
King’s Belly
United Services Recreation Club
Knead
Waffling Beans
Kowloon Bay Brewery
The Water Buffalo
Kowloon Cricket Club
Whiskimen
Kowloon Taproom
Winerack (Sai Kung)
L’etage
Winerack (Sai Ying Pun)
La Paloma
WOFT
Linguini Fini
Young Master Ales
Lion Rock Brewery
Yumtake
Little Creatures Madera Hotel Mass Bar II Master House Momotaro Moonzen Brewery Mr & Mrs Fox NOM Novotel Citygate Ovolo Hotel Papillon Caffe The Parish Posto Pubblico Present Raymond de Paris Roundhouse (Central) Roundhouse (Wan Chai) Second Draft SoHo BBQ SoHo Wines and Spirits (Central) SoHo Wines and Spirits (Sai Ying Pun) Stone Nullah Tavern Street Meat TAP The Ale Project Three Monkeys Tramline Liquor Co.
If you would like to distribute Coaster, get in touch: info@coastermag.com 38 • COASTER MAGAZINE
Macau Agora Barcook Beer Pro Beer Temple The Black Sheep Hencredible Terra Coffee House Wolfpack