Coffee tea&i Magazine #56

bimonthly magazine ● vol.56 ● January - February 2017

Content 72 Event

COFFEE ADDICTED

06 Editorial

●

CATCH UP

ffee Forum in China

40 Cover Story ●

2016 RE：VERB Global Elite Co-

Healthy is the new black

●

James Hoffmann:Coffee Talk at Shanghai Hiang Kie Coffee College

08 World News 16 Product

80 CTI Class

COFFEE LIFE

●

40

22 who to follow

Touch

30 Cafe Around World 36 Drinks 38 Design

84 Origin Journey ●

24 Coffee & Five Senses -●

Instant coffee

●

Coffee and Roasting

●

Coffee and Beauty

52 Latte Art 54 Special Report ●

To Blend or Not to Blend

Ethiopia Coffee that is Worth Waiting for

TEA AND ICED 94 Tea ●

Samovar Tea Lounge

Key Words 2016

67 Trade Show ●

Cafe Show Seoul

●

Thailand Coffee, Tea & Drinks

●

Hotelex Shanghai 2017

70 Competition ●

94 ●

The latest Monte-Carlo espresso machine from Conti features unique LED lights and exceptional multi-boiler system that guarantees precise and consistent water temperature throughout the brew process. The Monte-Carlo also comes equipped with user-friendly touch screen and the pre-infusion feature for the highest quality cup in every menu.

Modern Tea That Even Lu Yu Would be Surprised

World Coffee Championship of Korea

53

●

Third World Coffee Championships Taiwan Trials

98 Iced ●

Growing Pains:Gelato in China

Eco mode for excellent energy saving

7 colour LCD touch screen for extra personality and easy control

Cool touch steam wand

Teflon portafilter for easy cleaning

Small time and water volume display for each group head

Editorial Editorial

Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan sam@blueskybooks.net

Welcome It seems that by 2016 everyone already joined yoga classes, Nike+ Run or CrossFit; and don’t we all feel guilty skipping our work outs? But when was the last time you thought about your daily habits and what they bring to your bodies? What about your daily energy boost and all the components coffee has inside?

In this issue we decided to focus on the health side of coffee drinking (not only because being more healthy is our New Year’s resolution), so you can relax and don’t treat your morning cup (or two) as a guilty pleasure.

Talking about 2016, it has been an amazing year full of happy moments and surprises. The biggest news is that we moved our head office from Thailand to China, but we will still deliver fresh news to you in Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, English and Korean! Also we found a lot of amazing coffee, tea and gelato places, that we will continue sharing; there have also been a lot of events, such as Re:verb and coffee and tea competitions around the world.

Thinking about the future can be nebulous exercise, but, with the help of professionals like James Hoffmann of London’s Square Mile Coffee, we insure you that future does look bright.

As for the next year, we are preparing several surprises and of course we are happy to continue bringing coffee culture closer to all of you.

Dasha Kartasheva

Coffee t&i ( China ) Chief Editor: Nicole Ou English Editor: Dasha Kartasheva Chinese Editor: Echo Lou Editing Assistant: Faye Hu Editing Assistant: Cindy Ning Graphic Designer: Hanna Liu Event Planning: Anity Zhuang Blue Sky Books Team Bodin Amornpattanakul Thitiwat Deeyuadying Sutdrip Jenny Wang Vachapon Thisadeeruk Publisher Coffee t&i (China) RM1103B, No.222 Huaihai Zhong Rd., Huangpu District Shanghai, China Tel: +0086 6333 9299 Email: cti@coffeetimagazine.com The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher

Make sure you follow Coffee t&i on Facebook and Instagram ( @coffeeteaimag).

I would also love to hear your ideas for next issues:

cti@coffeetimagazine.com

To update Coffee Society news, please visit

Editorial Matthew Perger Founder of Braista Hustle https://baristahustle.com/ Melanie Leeson Director of Marketing & Development The Collaborative Coffee Source

www.facebook.com/CoffeeMagazine

Lluviaz Zheng Tea lover from Chengdu Evaa Tea expert from Taiwan We are always looking for talented contributors. If you have any good idea, welcome to share it with us: cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com

6

www.youtube.com/coffeetandi

Catch Up

Costa Coffee Will Launch Recycling Points UK’s biggest coffee chain, partnering with waste management provider Veolia, will take any brand’s cups at recycling spots in all of its stores to make sure that all of used cups are recycled. Costa Coffee will encourage customers to leave or return them to one of the stores of the chain with a clear message: “we recycle any paper takeaway cup, no matter what brand”.

Fewer than one in 400 paper cups handed out by high street coffee chains are being recycled because they are made of a difficult-to-recycle mix of paper and plastic, thus millions of used disposable cups end up in landfill.

“As the UK’s largest coffee shop brand, we want to make it as easy as possible for the public to recycle their used coffee cups,” said Jason Cotta, the managing director of Costa UK and Ireland. “Our research in Manchester and London shows around 40 cups per day are left in stores, which means we have the potential to recycle 30m Costa cups a year. What’s more, the fact that we will accept competitors’ cups means we could significantly increase that figure. Costa is always looking for new innovations, partnerships and collaborative efforts to lead the way in developing sustainable solutions to reduce the impact of our cups on the environment.” Undoubtedly, this move from Costa is a big step forward for sustainability in the coffee industry.

Pop Tarts and Dunkin’ Donuts Are Joining Forces to Create New Flavors Dunkin’ Donuts announced the “first-of-its-kind partnership” bringing two different coffee-flavored Pop Tarts to grocery store shelves. The limited edition products — Chocolate Mocha and Vanilla Latte —are supposed to taste just like coffee beverages themselves. The first Dunkin’ Donuts flavor, a Frosted Chocolate Mocha Pop Tart, features white frosting and is filled with “chocolatey-espresso goodness.” The second flavor, Frosted Vanilla Latte, features a tan frosting swirl and a “rich, sweet vanilla and coffee-flavored filling”. Your morning go-to meets your favorite high school breakfast!

But if you’re looking for a regular caffeine boost you made a wrong choice, as there’s no jolt in these Pop-Tarts, although you should never doubt the power of the placebo effect. So you’ll still need to get your regular cup of coffee, unless you are looking for different type of energy, sugar.

8

Catch Up

Scan Me: Starbucks Joins WeChat Payments Ever been late to a meeting due to counting right amount of cash or looking for your bank card at the Starbucks’ cashier?

Happy to inform that those days are over for China: Starbucks Corp. said it will accept WeChat Pay at about 2500 of its cafes across China, enabling customers to complete purchases with a scan of their phone. “Accepting mobile payment would unlock massive value for Starbucks,” said Shaun Rein, managing director of China Market Research Group, in an interview. “Since they couldn’t move customers through the line faster, they were losing 5 to 10 percent of business.”

Pointless to say how fast it is for consumers to purchase this way and Starbucks is not the first Western company to understand it: Costa Coffee, McDonald’s and KFC have been in the game for a year by now.

But those are not all surprises from Starbucks and Tencent, the duo decided to co-create “a new social gifting feature on WeChat” in early 2017, right for Chinese New Year. Customers will be able to select from Starbucks-branded gifts and products and add a personalized message to it to send friends and relatives in WeChat, recipients of these gifts will be able to save them on their WeChat accounts and redeem it later at Starbucks stores across the country.

fl avour vibes Peet’s Coffee is Building a Roastery in Virginia Peet’s Coffee announced that it is building a 175,000-square foot roastery in Suffolk, Virginia; its first on the East Coast. Peet’s new Roastery will further its mission, the company said, as one of its main goals is to deliver fresh coffee to consumers as close as possible to its roast date.

“We’re growing rapidly as a company, which means in all parts of the country,” said CEO Dave Burwick. “For us it’s all about sourcing great beans, roasting them to perfection and getting those beans to consumers as quickly as possible. Suffolk is the perfect location to support our high-quality standards while ensuring that the freshest beans are made available to our east coast consumers much more quickly than today.” The project is expected to create 135 new jobs in Suffolk and to bring an increase of traffic into the Port of Virginia.

Sirop de Fruit de la Passion �883 Feat.

Nectar de Goyave & Jus de Kiwi*

Barsetto coffee & tea capsules Italy import • Italian aesthetic blend • • • • • •

Select the highest quality bean around the world.

Multiple strict QC tasks Hundred years of family Italian blend 21 flavors coffee and tea fulfill your taste bud Double•S food-grade Aluminum pack with Nitrogen Unique 3D extraction technology to boost up coffee aroma

www.1883.com A p u r e p r o d u c t f r o m t h e Fr e n c h A l p s. * � 8 8 3 Pa s s i o n Fr u i t S y r u p f e a t u r i n g G u a v a N e c t a r a n d K i w i Ju i c e

www.barsetto.com

10

info@barsetto.com

11

Catch Up

Joule Caffeine Bracelet Let’s face it, we all enjoy a cup of coffee (or two) every now and then, for some coffee is one of the things that keep them surviving during the day and from time to time we are all ready to sell our souls for this magical caffeine boost.

But how many times you ran out of coffee or were too busy to stand in line? No need to answer, been there done that.

So here it is, new generation of caffeine boost for everyone, Joule Caffeine Bracelet. According to its Indiegogo page (where the bracelet raised upwards of $86,576 USD), this accessory consists of a bracelet itself and a patch, which has caffeine as well as vitamins in it. Those patches allow you to absorb caffeine through your skins, thus help you to maintain your energy level without any crushes, coffee breathe or stained teeth. Each bracelet comes with 30 patches and can be delivered to your house, office or any other convenient place, so you never have to be worried of running out of it.As creators of Joule Caffeine Bracelet claim, you can always keep your energy level with this accessory, as each patch lasts 4 hours. Scientists from World Cancer Research Fund International and the American Institute for Cancer Research saw that drinking coffee was associated with a significantly decreased risk for liver cancer. So now we can let it go and stop feeling guilty for one (or more) extra cup with you friends or colleagues.

Aviatore Veloce Turbojet 100: stainless steel jet engine espresso machine For those of us who dreaming about flights or for those who already been up in the air comes new Aviatore Veloce Turbojet 100, a single-serve coffee machine with high-pressure brewing system for coffee grinds or tea leaves. Its design is based around jet engine and composed of aviation-grade materials such as 2000 Series Aluminium Alloy, Stainless Steel 316 Ti, 304 & Aluminium Bronze. The machine was design by Paolo Mastrogiueppe and weights 28 kg, while it is 455mm tall and 780 long.

Aviatore Veloce Turbojet 100 is not the only airplane-inspired machine created by Super Veloce, there are also Nero Carbond V8, V10 and V12, Serie Titano that also has V8, V10 and V12 models and Aurum 18CT, each featuring different high-grade metals and finishes, are all described as “Single Serve, Ground Coffee Capsule type Espresso maker with Grappa Dispenser” The company says all items are “the high-end, functional mechanical art devices, that incorporate high tech materials, engineering excellence and craftsmanship providing clients with bespoke masterpieces of superior quality”.

12

Catch Up

Tea Masters Cup Vietnam 2016 Chose the Winners Tea Masters Cup Vietnam (TMCVN) is a competition among young tea masters from all over Vietnam. TMCVN is the national version of International Tea Masters Cup. The qualifying national round was held by Vietnam Tea Association in corporation with: The People Committee of Hoan Kiem district and Hanoi Promotion Agency. 20 young talents from different counties of Vietnam has participated and competed in 3 categories: Tea Preparation, Tea Pairing and Tea Tasting. They all showed great performance of tea preparation, tea pairing and tea tasting which demonstrated their skill, creativity and passion for this rustic beverage.

After intense competition the judges chose 3 champions, who are: Mr Nguyen Viet Hung– champion of Tea Preparation, Nguyen Thi Quy– champion of Tea Pairing, Pham Thi Quyen– champion of Tea Tasting. And the rest 17 contestants were honored with certification for participating .The champions will be sent to compete in the international final round of Tea Masters Cup 2017. Let’s wish them luck!

Ice Cream for Breakfast Can Make You Smarter Japanese scientists have discovered that consuming ice cream for breakfast improves reaction and information-processing capabilities. Yoshihiko Koga, a professor at Tokyo’s Kyorin University, carried out a series of clinical trials, in which participants were required to eat ice cream first thing in the morning, and then had to complete a series of mental exercises on a computer. Koga found that compared to a control group who hadn’t had ice cream, those who had eaten it for breakfast exhibited an increase in alpha waves in brain, which are associated with concentration, relaxation and mental co-ordination.

And for those of you, who think that the results are just down to the shock of eating something icy, Koga repeated the same tests with cold water instead of ice cream. Tests displayed a degree of increased alertness and mental capacity, although the levels were much lower than among subjects who started the day with ice cream. So may be we all should listen to science and start a day with this icy “brainy” treat.

Stella di Caffè DCL customized painted bodywork and front strip

EXPORT Sebastien CONSTANT +33 687 737 047

China Hong Kong Macau - Taïwan

Franzen LEUNG +86 152 1943 7598 +852 9686 3525

THE BARISTA CHOICE THE STELLA DI CAFFÈ DCL

WITH Multi-boilers machine with dual command on the same machine, lever for the skilled barista who wants to further control its shots and electronic volumetric control for the beginner barista to deliver consistant cups during rush hours.

www.unic.fr info@unic.fr 14

UNIC espresso machines

Product

WEGA-STYLE DISCOVER THE FUTURE OF ESPRESSO This hi-tech espresso machine features the latest in touch keypad technology, with a 5’’ capacitive screen and a mobile-like interface, allowing the barista to express his own style and at the same time delivering an in-cup product that is always of the highest quality.

A Wi-Fi package enables remote interaction with the machine from a laptop, tablet or smartphone, giving control over the settings and the ability to manage a greater number of My Concept machines simultaneously across the world. It’s even possible to upload photos over a USB connection and to personalize the display with a skin, start-up image, slide show and menu, as well as to store the extraction settings for particular blends to guarantee the best extraction every time. Each unit is independent and can be programmed with different preferences and combinations, which can be selected simultaneously by different operators.

Enhanced performance... reduced energy consumption. My Concept is the culmination of Wega’s continuing research in the field of energy saving. The consumption memory system-which recognizes when the machine is active and automatically activates the operation or stand-by function-combined with the use of separate heaters for each individual unit with a Boost function for even faster warming, gives a proven energy saving of up to 47.6%, maintaining the performance of the machine over time.

Finally, particular attention has been paid to the safety of the machine. My Concept offers 5 different safety levels for its steam boiler and 4 levels for the boilers for each dispensing unit. www.wega.it/en/

Impressive TANGO® DUO STP SUPER ESPRESSO MACHINE

www.unic.fr

Already available in Europe, the next generation of the TANGO®line from UNIC Espresso Machines promises to be a game changer in the world of Super Automatic Espresso machines. The new TANGO® DUO STP model still has some of our favorite features as before, like internal twin Ditting 80mm grinders and a massive PID controlled brew group, capable of reverse engineering contemporary 3rd wave style shot recipes, while incorporating new innovative pressure transducer technology for precise real time temperature control and a double intuitive and powerful touch interface that allows for endless experimentation on your drinks. The TANGO® DUO STP is able to deliver 4 drinks simultaneously plus steam and hot water, and has incomparable hourly performance thanks to its patented double brew group.

Email : info@unic.fr

16

Product

AUTO BREW RATIO

KNOW THE PRECISE DOSE IN YOUR CUP Auto Brew Ratio, available on the Linea PB espresso machine designed by and named in recognition of Piero Bambi, is a proprietary advancement in electronics which provides the barista with control and feedback during brewing in relation to the mass of coffee in the portafilter as well as the mass of coffee during extraction. Auto Brew Ratio technology is driven by precision scales that are built into the drain tray beneath each group. The scales are incorporated into the espresso machine’s electronic system and have a resolution that is one tenth of a gram.

All Linea PB’s equipped with Auto Brew Ratio ship standard with the La Marzocco Precision Portafilters- also sold as an accessory kit. Each kit is a pairing of 2, 3, or 4 portafilters with 17g baskets, chosen so that each portafilter’s weight differs only by (+/-) 0.05g.

www.lamarzocco.com

專業餐飲系列

Triple Thermo-block

Espresso Machine

KD-310 SHOP ONLINE !

www.wpm.hk

WPM MS-130T INTELLIGENT STEAMER Can preset temperature ranges from 40-99°C Auto stop after reaching preset temperature ● Two extra memorized settings available ● Can display either in sheshor °F ● Can make perfect milk froth without skill ● Can make also hot chocolate and green tea latte easily ● ●

www.wpm.hk

wechat

Email : terry_mkt@gewcorp.com

CONTI MONTE-CARLO ESPRESSO MACHINE The latest Monte-Carlo espresso machine from Conti features unique LED lights and exceptional multi-boiler system that guarantees precise and consistent water temperature throughout the brew process. The Monte-Carlo also comes equipped with user-friendly touch screen and the pre-infusion feature for the highest quality cup in every menu. ● Eco mode for excellent energy saving ● 7 colour LCD touch screen for extra personality and easy control ● Cool touch steam wand ● Teflon portafilter for easy cleaning ● Small time and water volume display for each group head www.conti-espresso.com

20

Other agent Brand: Professional Gelato equipment Gelato materials Professional Professional Italy imports coffee Coffee equipment (China general agent) (China general agent) coffee equipment coffee equipment coffee equipment cleaning supplies

G.E.W. International Corporation Limited Office/Showroom Address:

7/F, Meyer Industrial Building, 2 Chong Yip Street, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Website: www.wpm.hk

E-mail: welhome@gewcorp.com

Hotline/ Appointment Hotline: 852 - 23438211

who to follow

Coffee and Science

Coffeesciencecertificate

The industry’s first and only in depth training program focused on the science of coffee from ‘bean to cup’

Lifestyle

World Coffee Research varieties.worldcoffeeresearch.org

Icocoffeeorg

frank_bod

coffeechem

Wcoffeeresearch

People

We are the International Coffee Organization— Strengthening the global coffee sector through international cooperation since 1963.

Jimseven

If you’re looking for glowing skin, you’ll find it here.

Square Mile Coffee Roasters / World Atlas of Coffee / World Barista Champion 2007 / Coffee Jobs Board

Suddencoffee

The industry’s leading technical information portal on coffee science and chemistry from ‘bean to cup’. Brew Your Mind®

Choose Experience.

Choose BUNN.

Mrnihatcan

technical information portal on coffee science and chemistry

Mr and Mrs NC Traveler + Coffee. Where to next ? / Next Coffee ?

Kickstarter

Stagg EKG

The Electric Pour-Over Kettle for Coffee Lovers

GOAT STORY

GINA: Smart coffee instrument

Made with

WarmUp

Coffee Cookbook

The AnyCafé

Arctic

A High-Protein Coffee

The future of coffee is cold brew. The Arctic lets you make your own easily to enjoy the perfect cup of coffee any time.

Travel Brewer - The Travel Mug That Brews Coffee

Your beverage menu requires equipment that is consistently reliable and precise. bunn.com 22

COFFE E MOMENT instagram: coffeeteaimag

Share your coffee moment with us by mail :cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com

Precious minutes with your cup of coffee make you cherish these moments when you can stop and relax .

24

www.victoriaarduino.com

Coffee & Five Senses

Ubiquitous Sense of Touch

[ Body ] While it’s hard to find an accurate equivalent for the term “body”, you might understand it pretty well if you are a fan of red wine, in which due to the fermentation of ethanol and other substances the wine gets its rich taste. Body is more like a description of density that can be experienced by tongue. To put it simple, you might easily see the difference between drinking water and drinking such beverages as yogurt or espresso, where the last ones give you a higher sensation of heaviness.

A coffee’s body is mainly created by the coffee bean’s oil and dissolved substances extracted during the brewing process, which contributes to coffee’s richness, density and complexity. Because the drip/filter method removes many desirable flavor oils, this brewing method produces a lighter body. In contrast, an espresso shot pulled from an espresso machine/maker will have more body because the essential oils remain in the coffee.

Therefore, you can easily tell one from another by feeling the sharp difference in their body. Learning about body will enrich your experience in tasting a cup of coffee.

We use hands, lips and tongue to feel what we eat or touch. A simple example is we as infants would instinctively put into mouth everything our hands could reach, where touch is an integrated part of tasting. Imagine how boring it would be if we felt the same whatever we touch.

&

COFFEE FIVE SENSES

TOUCH

Oral Taste Sensation.

I have read a lot of fascinating stories about the sense of touch and experiments with it. For people with ageusia or anosmia, who are not able to taste or smell, sight and touch are what they rely on to judge food. By feeling the texture, they would tell if it is fresh or “delicious”. For example, ham with good proportion of fat and lean or sashimi would offer different kinds of tasting sensation. Touch, which is very important for those people, serves as a way to experience different levels of sensations while enjoying food. *An interesting fact: Ben Cohen, co-founder of Ben&Jerry’s Ice Cream, who has anosmia, compensated for not being able to smell cherry, chocolate and almond etc. by having a super-feel and texture in his products to satisfy the oral feelings. This “problem” turned out to be a positive feature and has made Ben&Jerry the most popular brand in the world of ice cream.

[ Astringency ] The Misunderstood Sensation of Touch Many people, describing the flavor of coffee, use the expression of “bitter and astringent”. Astringency, therefore, is always mistaken for a descriptor of taste.

Actually, it is a sensation of touch, which is also a significant flavor component of wine and tea.

Chlorogenic Acid Levels HIGH

LOW

To most people, the process of appreciating coffee only involves two senses: taste and smell. The other senses: touch, hearing and sight are also indispensable if you talk about “enjoying” coffee in a deep way. What makes it a complete sensory experience is more than what’s in the cup. The brain and mood stimulation by surroundings plays a big role as well. In the coming issues, we are going to invite doyens of the senses from various fields to unfold the secrets of coffee and the five senses.

Roasted Coffee Bean

“Tactile” is one of the espresso evaluation indexes on sensory score sheet in World Barista Championship

Touch - the Neglected Appreciation Feeling. aroma, touch and environment.

Many people doubt about the role touch plays in tasting coffee, despite its dominance in all five senses as shown in the Sensory Homunculus, which is the brain’s map of the body. Over-sized hands, lips and tongue imply that touch has the highest sensitivity among all.

Senses are closely connected with our high speed working brain, which processes 500,000 data points per second. Touch is bronze medalist to sight’s gold and hearing’s silver; all are absolutely critical to the tasting experience. Starting with the sense of taste, we would make our judgments predominantly based on what our tongue has to say. For most laymen, however, sipping a cup of coffee goes beyond how it tastes; they also care about the aftertaste lingering in mouth, drinking utensils, and the coffee house atmosphere. It is fair to say that tasting a cup of coffee involves taste,

26

Green Coffee Bean

Astringency is a puckering sensation on the tongue, back of the palate and cheeks. The astringency in wine is the tannins primarily from grape skin, while that in coffee is the combination of the chlorogenic acid from the beans, which is degraded into various elements in the roasting process, and the tartaric acid from the beans.

Astringency is sometimes admirable in wine but never in coffee. It is what baristas are working hard to get rid of as an irritation to the tasting experience and a flaw of the roasting process. Wellcontrolled roasting and extracting is the key to a nice cup of coffee with smooth texture and flavor.

For coffee, touch equates to mouth feelings, namely the weight, texture and finish of the liquid in the mouth. When you experience the interaction of the three, you are feeling the cup of coffee with the sense of touch.

Texture is an important part of feelings like smell and taste. It is often said that a great espresso “paints the tongue” , and indeed it always leaves in the mouth a rich aftertaste. Differences in body and temperature will bring different oral feelings, helping coffee sommeliers in their judgments. Two following paragraphs tell in detail about the two most often used coffee tactile markers.

27

Coffee & Five Senses Photos/illy coffee

Everything we touch Apart from the sensation of touch in the mouth, everything in the coffee world we get to touch is also involved, from picking the cherries at the place of origin, where you would identify your selections by feeling the density of the beans, to purchasing roasted beans, where you would tell the freshness by crushing one of them with your thumb and index finger and chewing to test crispness and lip aftertaste.

A good experience of coffee involves every related thing, the shape of the cup, the material of the spoon and even the biscuit that goes with the coffee. There was an experiment made by a food company, in which two groups of people were asked to try the same dessert with different kinds of spoons, cheap plastic ones and more expensive metal ones. It turned out that people, who used a metal spoon, liked the desert more and had better experience, that is what shows us that touch affects the taste. Obviously, food and drinks that are delivered to your mouth by ware of different materials and shapes can change its texture, which later affect the stimulation and, as a result, the feeling you experience.

[ TIP ] Coffee Cup Design

When it comes to this topic, I can’t help thinking of coffee cups, the most close accessories to coffee. During the competitions, contestants would present their works with different cups in order to bring unique mouth feeling when coffee spreads on the tongue. Tulip-shaped cup makes drinking more convenient, ceramic cups are featured in thermal preservation, insuring a constant temperature for lips. Even for creators of coffee cups, design includes the consideration of how to preserve the oils. It is clear that touch is something they also have to keep in mind when designing a cup. Now, let’s take a look at the classic illy cups. illy, apart from its eye-catching and gorgeous themes, also stands out in the market with its unique cup shapes. Its effort to integrate science with design has brought to us products with both beauty and ergonomic ① excellence. Just by looking at the iconic white espresso cup, we can see how important is touch sensation for the design. ①

Ergonomics is related to maximizing the fit between the user’s natural features and the equip-

ment. It takes account of interaction between them, reduces the user’s active adaptation physically or psychologically, and try to decrease their fatigue and discomfort.

28

Designed by famous architect and designer Matteo Thun in 1992, the classic white espresso cup is illy’s master piece. It’s said that the design booklet is as thick as 70 pages. The distinctive profile and scientifically designed for human comfort handle has become a symbol of illy with so many features:

1 2

Feather edge design gives a sense of smooth touch.

3

Ring shape iconic handle and perfectly fitting curve design gives a new sensory and aesthetic experience.

4

Round shape design keeps the coffee warmth and aroma.

5

Raised center of the saucer inspired by Vesuvius Volcano.

6

Saucer also has specially designed place for sugar and spoon.

Cup wall thickness gradually built up for easy stacking.

The patented design has become a symbol of illy in more than 70 countries, which Mr. Thun (the designer of the cup) might never expected. An ideal coffee container would enrich user’s tasting experience with senses and nature aesthetics. This little cup, more than just retaining heat and delivering aroma, also brings enjoyment in the sense of touch and sight.

Since its birth, the artwork has opened the chapter of the illy Art Collection. Hundreds of artists including Michelangelo Pistoletto, Marina Abramovic, Sandro Chia, Jeff Koons have created their signature cups with illy, a perfect mix of contemporary art and coffee utensil. illy’s espresso cup is one of the best interpretation of coffee cup philosophy and the sense of touch.

29

Coffee & Five Senses

Application of Human Factor Study in Coffee Shop Design

When it comes to coffee house design, it’s worth further pursuing how ergonomics/human factor study can best serve customers’ touch. Things such as height of the bar counter, space layout and equipment display will all be part of customers’ experience. Therefore, we have invited people who are highly experienced in the subject to share their knowledge.

Coffee house design, regardless of it’s style, should put people in first place because baristas and customers are who would operate in it and use it. Designers’ attention needs to be paid to use friendly functions as well as decorative style.

Floor Plan and Furniture & Equipment Display

① There are two major spaces in a coffee shop: service counter and seating.

Usually, the counter would be located close to the main entrance (easy for baristas to greet customers and enjoy natural light). Counter design should minimize walking distances for the baristas.

If your main business is coffee, coffee machines should be placed as close to the entrance as possible.

If desserts are your main product, the desserts should be displayed close to the entrance.

① ② ③

② There are two main types of counters for a modern coffee shop: one in the center and one close to the back wall.

Keep the service area more than 1m wide (at least 800mm) for smooth movement and traffic flow. Usually furniture is placed around the counter based on the layout.

Normally, the height of a service counter is 850mm(-+50mm) , and width is 800mm(no less than 600mm).

By Allen Chen Intro: the designer’s works include Dalian Box COFFEE, Dalian Uniloft Hostel, Dalian O2OCOFFEE, Xuzhou Quando Coffee, Taiyuan Coffee Truth, Panjin Red Rabbit Coffee etc.

30

③ Talking about doors and aisles, what matters the most is the minimal width of it, due to connect arias.

A door in a coffee shop should be no less than 700mm wide, considering human body size in movement, which is the combination of 550mm wide single stream of people and 0-150mm body swing.

Height and width of handrail and steps must be kept consistent in their height and width to achieve the best functionality. How to determine them often is directly based on anthropometry.

Interior environment Elements People’s safety, health and comfort are closely related to the environment, which, to a great extent, affects their work efficiency.

Using physiological standards to examine the work place, the environment can be categorized into four levels: unbearable, uncomfortable, comfortable and most comfortable. Sight and hearing experience also should be considered in environment design (which will be further discussed in the following issues ). ① Privacy As a great social space, a coffee shop also needs to protect customers’ privacy, which brings a big challenge and dilemma to the designer. While designers sometimes fail to perceive certain subconscious needs, some coffee shops, by their nature, fulfill these needs that designers never anticipated. ② Customers Distribution Pattern in a Coffee Shop There is a certain human interaction and distribution pattern for any given environment, which means people choose to locate themselves based on the circumstances and incline to always behave the same way. The relationship between the pattern in a given environment and their behavior characteristics can be illustrated in the following circumstances: A big shared table for about 8 people High tables beside windows with seats facing the windows Leisure sofa area at the center if possible (to set off the atmosphere ) In the case of a two floor building, make an open loft space with some stairs designed to be seating, allowing customers to interact. ③ Space Orientation Coffee Shop space needs to be as clear and simple as possible to reduce any complexity.

Next issue... ...coffee and the sense of smell Above is what I would like to share with you on coffee and the sense of touch.

I wish you always enjoy your cup of coffee with its delicate flavor and everything around it.

Reference: Taste what you’re missing, Barb Stuckey (Translated Chinese version 《味觉猎人》 by Zhuang Jing from Taiwan, Published by Taiwan Rover Press, 2014)

31

Cafe Around World

The Visit Coffee Roastery

Origin Coffee 6 5 C h a r l o t te Ro a d , S h o re d i tc h ,

Mon- Fri 07: 30 - 18: 00 Sat 10: 00 - 18: 00

EC2A 3PE, London www.origincoffee.co.uk/

32

Adalbertstrasse 9,Berlin, Germany

Mon-Fri 09:00 - 19:00

http://visit-coffee.com

Photography Pim Rinkes

Sun 11: 00 - 17: 00

33

Cafe Around World

Kavárna Místo

Cafe Revol Shop 5, G/F, Fortune Terrace, 4-16 Tak

www.facebook.com/caferevol/?fref=ts Mon- Fri 08:00 - 19:00

Shing Street, Hong Kong

Sat- Sun 09:00 - 19:00

+852 3702 0170

34

Bubenečská 12, 160 00 Praha 6, Czech Republic

http://www.mistoprovas.cz Mon- Sun 09:00–22:00

+420 727 914 535

35

Cafe Around World

Mezamashikohi - trio No.1, Jingcheng 7th St., West Dist., Tai-

www.facebook.com/mezamashikohi Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun 09:00–21:00

chung City 40361, Taiwan

Wed 09:00-18:00

+886 4 2329 2566

36

Drinks

Corn Cappuccino Ingredients

1.

Espresso .............................................................30ml

2.

Put boiled corn, milk (1), sugar and cream into a juice maker, mix.

Corn........................................................................60g

into a metal cup.

Milk ①...................................................................30ml

3.

Heat it till 70℃.

Sugar.......................................................................10g

4.

Then fill one third of a cup with this

Liquid cream .....................................................10ml

Lavender sky

Put this pure through filter and put it

corny milk.

Milk ②............................................................... 150ml

5.

Using mocha pot, prepare espresso and pour it into the cup.

Ingredients

6.

Carefully mix coffee and milk.

7.

Hit milk (2) and whip it yourself till you have foam, then pour it also into the cup.

Espresso .............................................................. 30ml

8.

Lavender tea .......................................................... 20g

And finally, put some corn on top of it.

Sugar ...................................................................... 10g Hot water ........................................................ 150ml Milk ................................................................... 100ml Cream .................................................................. 20ml Ice ......................................................................... a bit 1.

First put lavender and sugar into a steel cup, pour over hot water.

2.

Leave it to soak for about 1.5 min. and cool it after

3.

Using a filter, pour lavender tea into a glass full of ice.

4.

1.

3.

5.

8.

After making espresso in a mocha pot, cool it a bit and pour coffee into a glass in layers.

5.

Put thin layers of cream in between coffee layers so they will not mix.

6.

Whip milk until you have foam and then pour it over your drink.

About Infinite Possibilities of Creative Coffee Drinks

1.

3.

4.

6.

When it comes to Taiwan coffee creativity, it is impossible not to mention Lin Dongyuan, the leader of creative coffee trend. Also known as “Latte Prince”, he has been in coffee industry for more than 20 years, and from the very start attracted everyone with his amazing latte art, even before it started being popular. His development of creative coffee has a huge impact on Taiwan creative coffee trend. He won first and third Taiwan Barista Championships and became first World Barista Championship contestant from Taiwan. Lin’s experience and creative innovations are all gathered in the «Infinite Possibilities of Creative Coffee Drinks». The book has creative coffee basics, success tips and 62 creative coffee drinks recipes.

38

39

Design The concept is introduced by the founder Bosco Quinzaños. He sees the importance of water as the central element for the ecosystem and for human life; and the importance to make the most out of rain water as a precious resource. Man, machine, and nature come together in a common language, unafraid to speak with clear purpose.

The logo on the bottle shows a man wearing a gas mask, which aims to awaken people’s consciousness

of environmental protection. There are also many souvenirs related to "water"- "water and life, water and society, water and nature". They hope that people can understand the meaning of life, and understand how to cherish water and protect the environment.

CASA DEL AGUA ® is instinctively contemporary, yet passionately classic. With conviction, it represents everything that is worthy for what it “is” and not for what it“intends to be”.

CASA DEL AGUA

®

CASA DEL AGUA ® Pure Water restaur a nt s a nd f a m i l ie s . T he wate r i s col lected from rain in the roof garden.

It's filtered, vapor d i s t i l led , re - m i n e r a l i zed , ion i zed , harmonized and bottled. CASA DEL AGUA ® produces the p u re s t d r i n k ing water available with the highest quality standard (TDS<10ppm / 8.5 pH) and bottle it in beautiful glass pieces.

Inspired by traditional processes, CASA DEL AGUA ® from Mexico emerges as a nostalgic brand that evokes and appeals to that which is well made, to the practical, to the timeless, but especially to the beautiful.

CASA DEL AGUA ® is water + tea bar & ro of g a r den, and is also an artisanal factory that supplies neighborhood hotels,

40

41

01

Cover Story

To understand how coffee influences health, first, we need to know what a coffee bean has inside.

Polysaccharides Fresh bean has a lot of components inside, and, even though, 35%-45% is so

● Volatile Fatty Acids: it is an important factor for coffee aroma, it can create around 40 different types of aroma substance.

Protein Coffee contains around 12% of protein; while brewing most of proteins cannot be dissolved, so human body can receive very limited

called “sugar”, coffee fiber is not sweet at all.

Caffeine Caffeine is the most attractive ingredient in coffee, it is a crystalline xanthine alkaloid compound, something similar to theobromine in cacao and theophylline in tea. For example, Arabica beans contain 0.9%-1.4% of caffeine. Caffeine has a wide effect on human body: starting with brain and heart and ending with blood vessels and muscles; moderate amount of caffeine can stimulate cerebral cortex, make a mind clear, improve memory and emotional state, make the blood run faster, strengthen blood vessels, reduce muscle fatigue and improve metabolism.

Unlike narcotic a nd s t i mu l at i n g substances, caffeine does not accumulate in a body, it leaves the body

amount of protein out of coffee.

Sugars (sucrose) Coffee beans contain about 3%-8% of sucrose; after roasting it becomes caramel, with reaction of different proteins and sugars, it gives coffee beans this smoky brown color.

C8 H

N

O2

Minerals As main coffee minerals, such as lime, iron, sulphur, sodium carbonate, phosphorus, chlorine, silicon etc., are very limited in a bean, they do not influence the taste of the coffee much.

Microelements B l a c k c o f fe e c o n t a i n s very big amount of microelements like potassium, magnesium, niac i n a nd a ve r y s m a l l amount of sodium. Following data provides information on how many microelements there are in a 100ml cup of moderate intensity black coffee:

within 24 hours.

Chlorogenic acid One more important coffee bean chemical component is tann i n ( a k a p oly phe nol ) , wh ich i s 4%-9% of all chemical elements in a bean. Chlorogenic acid is a combination of caffeic acid and quinic and it is exactly one of the reasons of the sour taste after roasting and brewing.

Very small amount

Fats Fats play a very important role in how a coffee tastes; studies showed that coffee has a lot of different types of fats inside, among them the most important ones are fatty acid and Volatile Fatty Acids. ● Fatty acids: fat contains acid, its strength will be different according to different types of coffee.

3

It is so poetic how coffee was found, spread and now is used. Coffee is one of the most popular beverages around the globe, at the same time, it is also the most controversial one; there have always been uncountable number of discussions and researches on how coffee affects health. So we wonder: does this rich brown silky drink harm or save us? In this issue we will try to find this out.

42

10

4

Healthy is the New Black

Coffee components

43

Cover Story

③ Part of the reports points out caffeine may influence pain feeling in brain and spinal cord, making athletes not sensible to injuries and prolonging performance time.

However, whether caffeine can enhance sport

Can drinking coffee lead to dehydration?

Pros and Cons As we described earlier, coffee itself has nothing bad in it, and, on the contrary, it has many ingredients that are good for the body. Coffee does not only refresh and clear your mind, according to scientific reports, antioxidants, caffeine and other ingredients are good for your circulatory system and liver.

Of course, there are always different opinion on coffee advantages; World Coffee Research reported: “Coffee is a new product in China, one of the reasons why Chinese people don’t like to drink coffee is that they have wrong ideas about how coffee affects health”. That is why we decided to clear this topic out for everyone, who is interested in the matter.

02

Birmingham University Sport and Exercise School reported that drinking coffee is almost as same as drinking clear water and cannot lead to dehydration, on the contrary, as any other beverage, it helps to hydrate your body. The study compared effects of drinking coffee and clear water and also measured black coffee impact on a body; scientist took 50 men (women cannot be tested due to menstrual cycle affecting the study). During the 3- day experiment, one team had to drink 4 cups of black coffee per day, while the other team needed to drink only water; after those 3 days experiment continued, making 2 teams switch their roles.

In order to know hydration state, researchers used a variety of effective hydration measurements, including weight and total water body percentage measurements, as well as blood and urine analysis. Scientists found out that there were no big difference between

performance, it’s still under question.

Is caffeine the cure to prevent Alzheimer’s disease?

A group of researchers from University of Wisconsin at Milwaukee conducted a study by tracking every year’s behavior of 6467 people, who were over 65 years old. Every year, researchers evaluated tested people cognitive ability and required them to record daily consumption of coffee, tea and coke to calculate their intake of caffeine. After 10 years recording, compared to the tested people with no caffeine intake, persons, who took more than 26.1mg caffeine per day, reduced their risk of having Alzheimer’s disease by 36%. What’s more, researchers from Greece showed that 1 cup of coffee a day can keep the arteries healthy and blood pressure stable after a study of 485 people, who were also older than 65. Study on 600 volunteers from UK University of Bristol also indicates that 1 cup of coffee a day may empower brain.

These benefits, mainly due to caffeine, can inhibit aseptic inflammation in the brain, thereby reduce the forming and deposition of abnormal protein which can cause disease. This will not only help to reduce the occurrence of Alzheimer’s disease but also prevent the neurodegenerative diseases like Parkin-

people who drank water and who drank coffee.

Will coffee be a banned drug for athletes?

Can coffee cause insomnia?

Journal of Clinical Sleep Medicine tested 12 healthy sleepers, giving them different amount of coffee, to see how it affects their sleep. What results showed was that if you take 400mg of caffeine (2-3 cups of coffee) 3-6 hours before bedtime , it will definitely disrupt your ability to drift off to sleep. Even if you take coffee 6 hours before going to sleep, comparing to normal sleeping duration, your sleep can also be much shorter.

That is why one of test participant, Dr. Christopher Drake, suggest to avoid any caffeine after 5pm, in order to have a healthy sleep. In other words, there is no big difference for your body if you drink a cup of coffee after work or right before going to sleep.

Q&A

ABOUT COFFEE & HEALTH

Do women need to reduce caffeine intake during pregnancy?

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has released a statement, suggesting that pregnant women may need to reduce their caffeine intake.

The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) in their “Scientific Opinion on Caffeine” report, also pointed out that the daily caffeine dose for pregnant women should not exceed 200 mg, while usually 1 cup contains about 80-85 mg. Moreover, if a daily dose exceeds 300mg, it can lead to miscarriage or preterm baby birth . So pregnant women can drink not only decaf, but also black coffee.

The main reasons of these side effects are: ① Caffeine running in the blood may cause insufficient blood supply for placenta, provoking blood pressure and blood sugar to increase. ② Caffeine can slow mother’s uterus blood flow, thereby, reducing oxygen and nutrients in the blood, affecting baby’s development. ③ Caffeine can speed up baby’s heart rate and metabolism, which harms the baby. ④ Fastened by caffeine, metabolism can also affect liver functions.

44

It is well known that caffeine has been commonly used in sport field, however, Academia has debated for a long time whether the usage of caffeine can strengthen athletic ability. Caffeine was regarded as banned drug by IOC as early as 1984, but later it was taken out of list in 2004 due to no scientific evidence on its positive impact on athletic ability has been proved. But now, caffeine is still on the watch list of WADA for the reason of popular usage by athletes.

In order to make it clear, UK researchers has conducted a study on the relationship between absorption speed of carbohydrates and intake of caffeine. The study is to test drinks taken by endurance athletes including bicyclist and triathletes. The result shows that intake of 0.5mg caffeine per kg of an athletes weight can increase 26% absorption speed of carbohydrates. From this point, caffeine might have a positive impact on athletic ability. Several reports summarize the 3 reasons, listed below: ① Caffeine is a kind of alkaloid, which can stimulate the brains central nervous system, making the athletes become excited which leads to quick reaction during sports and reduces their feeling of being tired in long-term sport activities. ② Caffeine can promote body and muscles release fatty acids into the blood, for the use of saving glycogen and increasing storage ability of glycogen, which will finally help the continuation of endurance.

This brings bigger benefit to endurance sports such as long distance cycling and running.

son etc.

45

Cover Story

03

A discovery of coffee’s secret to health on the 26th ASIC

drinking coffee can lower the risk of angiocardiopathy

Besides the studies mentioned before, the 26th International Conference on Coffee Science held by The Association for Scicnce and information on coffee(ASIC) happened in Kunming China on Nov.13th 2016. This seminar is regarded as the most influential and authoritative meeting, which means Olympic Games in coffee academia. During this seminar, experts of different fields from 60 countries shared their studies on coffee, the organizer also invited 7 famous experts of coffee and health to give their speeches and opinions on this aspect. We select 3 topics re-

Artalejo,F. states that polyphenol components in coffee are good for blood pressure, can set off the blood pressure increasing, coffee is beneficial to cardiovascular in long term. Different consumption habit of coffee will cause comprehensive effect on angiocardiopathy: among healthy group, the risk of angiocardiopathy will be lowered by 15% if drinking 3-4 cups of coffee per day; even high consumption of coffee will not increase the risk of angiocardiopathy; and coffee will not cause any harmful effect on people with angiocardiopathy.

Besides, scientist in US used to investigate the correlation of coffee & palsy on more than 5,000 female respondents. The research indicates that drinking 3+ cups coffee can lower the chance of palsy by 20%; comparing to people not drinking coffee, drinking 4-5 cups of coffee per day can reduce the risk of angiocardiopathy and palsy.

lated to our daily life. Let’s see how our experts argue for coffee.

Artalejo,F. （Spain）

The relation of coffee & cancer: Is the evaluation of IARC in 2016 correct?

Coughlin,J. （US）

International Agency for Research on Cancer (ab. IARC) listed caffeic acid from coffee as carcinogen type 2B (limited to bladder cancer) in 1991, which meant “possibly cause cancer to human body”. However, a report in Jun 15th this year stated that: there’s no sufficient evidence to support the argument “coffee possibly causes cancer” after the investigation on 1000 research samples.

Coughlin,J. stated that IRAC still raises that coffee may possibly cause bladder cancer though they don’t find any effective cancer-causing factor from coffee; but they point out that drinking very hot coffee will cause esophagus cancer, for this they classify coffee as carcinogen grade 3. However, there’s no conclusion whether ambient coffee or ice coffee will cause cancer. So Coughlin,J. doubts statements that classify coffee as carcinogen grade 3. At the same time, Coughlin,J. finds that there were no significant bladder cancer disease before 1970, but coffee was promoted early before 1970. So he thinks no sufficient evidence to support coffee as one of the factor causing bladder cancer.

After investigating previous research reports which proved coffee could lower down the incidence of bladder cancer & prostatic cancer and the reports which proved the negative correlation between coffee and some cancer, Coughlin,J. thinks IRAC should add grade 5: a category which can lower the risk of cancer; and coffee should be classified into the grade 5, instead of existing grade 3.

IARC classifies cancer causing factors into 4 grades: grade 1 is Carcinogenic to humans, ex. metha-

From the above articles, we can conclude that the substances in coffee itself will not do harm to human body, but un-proper way of drinking & un-appropriate consumption will cause uncomfortable feeling in a body. According to the statistics from European Union & European Food Safety Bureau, a chronic caffeine intake per day for adult will be 200mg per time or totally 400mg per day (approx. 4-5 cups of coffee), 200mg per day for a pregnant woman or a lactation woman (will not cause any potential risk to baby); for children & youth, proper intake will be 3mg/kg X weight. So coffee is beneficial if drinking in a proper way and within proper intake range.

Some tips on drinking coffee:

● Recommended max. 3 cups per day (150ml/cup) ● Best timing:1 st cup: 10am in the morning after breakfast, this will help your brain working in a conscious & active status; 2 nd cup: after lunch, it can help to excite your brain & body when you feel sleepy, and it can boost the movement of stomach thus help to digest; 3 rd cup: 3pm in the afternoon, as talked before, it will disturb sleeping if taken

nol; grade 2 is furthered classified as grade 2A & grade 2B, A is probably carcinogenic to humans, eg. UV

6 hrs before you go to bed.

radiation; B is possibly carcinogenic to humans, ex. engine exhaust; grade 3 is substances couldn’t be

● Try to drink coffee with temperature below 65°C. WTO stated that drinking beverages over

identified as causing cancer or not, ex. methylbenzene; grade 4 is substances not causing cancer.

65°C is the possible factor for esophagus cancer. ● Do not drink coffee after drinking wine, otherwise it will boost up the blood vessel exangia,

the relation between coffee consumption & diabetes II Scientific evidence proves that taking proper coffee can lower the risk of diabetes effectively. Comparing to the group drinking less than 2 cups of coffee per day or not drinking coffee, the diabetes disease rate of the group drinking 3-4 cups coffee per day is lowered 25%. According to the investigation of European Food Safety Bureau on caffeine safety, amount of proper coffee consumption will be 3-5 cups per day; within this range, whenever taking 1 more cup of coffee, the diabetes

Tuomilehto,J. （Finland）

disease rate will decrease by 5%-10%.

In the World Coffee Science Meeting this year, Professor Tuomilehto,J. from Finland gave a similar conclusion. His research indicates that chlorogenic acid, main ingredients in coffee, has strong inhibitory action to α-glycuronide, and even after saccharic loading, it can prevent the increasing of blood sugar evidently, thus, will lower the risk of diabetes. In addition, research states that adiponectin concentration will increase when caffeine concentration in human body increases; the level of adiponectin can indicate the development of diabetes, and it also exhibits the potential of diabetes resistance in clinical test.

46

speed up the blood circulation, increase the burden on cardiovascular. ● Pregnant woman should avoid taking more than 200mg of caffeine per day (per 150ml coffee contains around 80-85mg of caffeine) ● Try to choose pure coffee instead of coffee with non dairy powder. There’s trans fat in non dairy powder that will causes certain effect on health; try to take less products with coffee mate. If you don’t get used to black coffee, try to replace sugar with milk to avoid taking excessive sugar.

Reference：● http://culture.coffee.cn/culture/showCulture_3014659.htm● http://coffeeandhealth.org/topic-overview/conclusion-2/ ● http://cavegirlplusone. com/blog/2013/9/8/part-2-caffeine-coffee-and-tea-during-your-paleo-pregnancy● https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10914439● https://kknews.cc/zh-cn/ health/eznoey.html● http://coffeeandhealth.org/2014/01/killer-s-c-et-al-2014-no-evidence-of-dehydration-with-moderate-daily-coffee-intake-a-counterbalancedcross-● over-study-in-a-free-living-population-plos-one-91-e84154/● http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/news/art/20130409/18221295● http://www.sport.gov.cn/ n16/n1152/n2508/n2598/137815.html● http://www.sleepeducation.org/news/2013/11/15/late-afternoon-and-early-evening-caffeine-can-disrupt-sleep

47

Cover Story

Will the

INSTANT COFFEE

have a chance to turn the table?

While more and more people are becoming familiar with specialty coffee, 50% of the world coffee beans are still used to make instant coffee. Of course when we mention coffee, the first impression some people will get is the 3-in-1 instant coffee. The most important reasons why instant coffee is still very popular is because of its convenience and low costs.

Nowadays, coffee is becoming better every day, more and more cafes are putting drip coffee, specialty coffee, fresh roasted coffee, etc. on their menu. As people are accepting black coffee and specialty coffee, they now know more about advantages and disadvantages of instant coffee. For example, is it healthy to drink instant coffee or will it cause cancer?

More and more questions and arguments are starting to flood the market. According to the results shown by Mintel Purchase Intelligence, the marketing value of instant coffee was down-sliding for the past few years. By the end of 2019, the marketing value of instant coffee will drop to 66%. The well-known brands such as Nestle and Maxwell are facing difficult times, as Nestle is in the battle of whether coffee-mate is an illegal substance, Maxwell was kicked out by its mother company in 2015. The world famous instant coffee is now hitting the bottom of the valley. However, according to The International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group, the marketing value of instant coffee is still hitting 86 billion dollars. What’s so charming about this unpredictable coffee behavior and why it rises so many questions and arguments, let’s discuss it in following paragraphs.

What is instant coffee?

The Making of Instant Coffee Includes These Steps: ① 1st Step: To get rid of the unwanted matters in the coffee ② Roasting: The complex physical and chemical reactions happened inside of a coffee bean, to form a special kind of coffee flavor ③ Grinding: To grind cooked beans into fine powder. ④ Extracting: Under the certain temperature and pressure, extract the soluble coffee substances into water. ⑤ Condensing & Drying: The final process to get the instant coffee powder.

Looking at those steps, you can say it certainly is a creative brand’s new discovery, it simplifies complicated process of hand brewing and allows coffee to exist as an easy-to-get drink. Also, it brought the first coffee wave

Early in 1890, a man from New Zealand named David Strang discovered the “instant” technology and had it patented. Later, George Washington discovered a massive technology for producing instant coffee and announced it to the market in 1910. In 1938, facing the problem of the leftover coffee beans, the Brazilian government together with Nestle upgraded the producing technology, especially putting a certain amount of soluble carbohydrate before drying, to improve the flavor, thus Nestle became the leading brand of instant coffee.

During the 1980s, Maxwell, following Nestle, entered Chinese market, these two big brands of instant coffee brought the first impression of coffee to Chinese people.

into the world.

48

Three Crimes of Instant Coffee

Can instant coffee turn the table once more?

There are some undeniable problems about making instant coffee: First, because, while making instant coffee, beans are always under-roasted, coffee stays at a basic level. So it won’t fully reflect the real flavor of coffee beans.Next, because of the budget issues, the company will choose high productive, low price Robusta coffee beans, which taste bitter and contain a big amount of caffeine, for making instant coffee; broken and bad coffee beans affect flavor of coffee and drinking this kind of coffee for a long time will not do any good to our health. Lastly, in terms of the different kinds of additives and preservatives in instant coffee, there is only 1/4 to 1/3 of the original grinded coffee left in the 3-in-1 instant coffee, the other 3/4 to 2/3 is the coffee-mate, aka nondairy creamer, that changes taste of coffee. The coffeemate contains large amount of sugar, syrup and vegetable oil, and, again, drinking this coffee for a long period of

Looking through all those paragraphs above, there are two main reasons why instant coffee is not the best option for your health: there are bad quality raw materials, too much additives and preservatives. But with the new technology, will it be able to produce its line of specialty coffee? Nowadays, we can see a new kind of

time will damage your health, especially, CVS.

to change the way Chinese think of the instant coffee.

instant coffee rising up from the horizon. ① Buencafe is the world largest Arabica freeze

dryer company founded by Columbia’s FNC. It has over 75% of the market and controls the quality of their technology in every way. They hope they can improve the experience and opinions on how people think of instant coffee. Also, people in Buencafe think that right now there are still lots of potentials in the Chinese instant coffee market, but it is confusing for customers to make decisions because of all the negative comments about additives. So it will be a long way for Buencafe

② Another brand, named Sudden Coffee,influenced

Two Instant Coffee Producing Methods

by Silicon Valley technologies, is called “Instant Coffee You’ll Actually Want to Drink” by New York

SprayDryer,aka SD. Spray Dryer method is one of the most widely used method in the industrial business now. It vaporizes water under a very high temperature and dry the coffee until it becomes powder. This method works efficiently well and costs less, but because of the heat sensitivity of the beans, the high temperature will make a huge impact on the original coffee flavor. Thus, by using the spray dryer method, the flavor of the instant

Times. They take beans from Ethiopia, uses the standard roasting technology, then extracts the espresso by using La Marzocco Linea. After that, uses the dryer method to compress it into fine powder. Recently, in order to make the difference between the normal instant coffee and Sudden Coffee clear, the company changed its brand name to “No-Brew Coffee”, for showing its advantages of drip coffee’s aroma and more smooth and much richer taste.

We have to admit, this is another way to help instant coffee to turn the

coffee will be reduced.

Freeze Dryer,aka FD. The Freeze Dryer method nicely solves the problem of preserving the original flavor of the coffee. By using the ice sublimation method, it freezes the water of coffee liquid, directly from solid to vapor, thus achieving the dryness. Because it is running under low temperature and a highly vacuum space, the heat sensitive substances can be preserved, so aroma and flavor of the coffee will be kept completely. This kind of method can preserve the original flavor of the coffee and it is leading a new wave of technology.

table in the market.

Above all, there are two ways to decide whether a cup of instant coffee is bad for our health or not: first is basic materials and second is the additives. If we have all these steps improved, then we can make an exquisite cup of instant coffee with rich taste, just like the specialty coffee has.

Green bean Freezing Freeze concentration Roast

Freeze dried

Grind

Extraction

Packing

49

Cover Story

fries, chips, bread and even the smoke from cigarettes have acrylamide in it.

In 1994, IARC listed acrylamide into 2A of carcinogen (things that can cause cancer). It may sound terrifying, but according to the research done by JECFA, it will not be dangerous if we only inhale a normal amount. However, if we inhale too much, then it will affect our nervous system, or even cause cancer. Right now, California is thinking of an amendment to put a warning label on the coffee.

ROASTING THE STEALTH KILLER OF OUR HEALTH

Quantity

Mean(g/kg)

Maximum value (g/kg)

93（101）

13

116

205（709）

288

1231

20（119）

1100

4948

26（34）

668

5399

grinded, uncooked)

Acrylamide content in coffee products

will cause the bronchus to narrow or even closed shut, right now there are no scientific methods to cure this.

Thus, the infected will either die young or have a lung transplantation.

In the report, it showed that diacetyl also exists in coffee. To people working in coffee roasting for a long time, it is a serious health problem, that cannot be ignored.

If someone says coffee roasting may cause cancer, then, I believe, a lot of roasters will disagree. However, according to one research results, it is a serious matter.

Earlier in Europe and America, the Food and Drugs Departments listed coffee as a drink, which has high amount of acrylamide. In 2014, the European Food Department asked for some opinions from the scientists whether there is a saving from the poisonous gas while roasting coffee beans. In 2016, the U.S Health Department announced a health warning for people working in coffee beans roasting areas for the first time, it certainly got the attention of some organizations, so they wanted to do more research on this serious matter.

As the third wave of specialty coffee’s culture is being popularized, more and more cafes, even coffee lovers, tend to choose self-roasted beans, as they want the most fresh coffee. But no matter how popular selfroasting has become, does a roaster realize how dangerous the gas, released during the roasting, can be or what is the correct way to process this gas?

Does The Gas, Released from Roasting, Cause Popcorn Lung Disease?

Coffee Roasting and cancerogen

According to a report, made by American famous website, Alternet, in September 2016, people working in coffee roasting may have a possibility of having Popcorn Lung Disease. The so called Popcorn Lung means, if people inhale the chemical substance called diacetyl released from making popcorn over a long time, their lung will have some serious damage. Because a lot of popcorn workers got this lung disease from work, this disease is named Popcorn Lung. This disease

During the process of coffee roasting, beans will release smell and also a chemical substance called acrylamide. According to the results of Hong Kong Health Department, food that has carbohydrates, especially the plant food, that is with rich carbohydrates but has less proteins, will release acrylamide under a high temperature (>120℃). For example, coffee beans,

50

Of course, releasing acrylamide during roasting is unintentional, when the process is done, only few amount of acrylamide left in the coffee and most of it is gone after the later process of grinding and filtering. There won’t be any left in the drinking liquid. According to the results on the intake of acrylamide over 17 countries, people usually inhale 0.3-2.0 µg/kg•bw/day of acrylamide, some inhale about 5.1 µg/kg•bw/day, they need to pay more attention to their health.

To the Roasters So for those who working in the coffee business for a long time, no matter in a roast factory or in a self-roasting café, they need to pay attention to the wasted gas while they work. Despite this, they need to wear a mask while working, it is important to install proper ventilation systems to reduce the air pollution.

Currently, the coffee industry in China doesn’t care much about the recycle of the wasted gas, majority of the self-roasting cafes don’t even have a proper ventilation system. The policies of the government are also responsible for that. Like in some European countries, it is necessary to make it mandatory to install one. For example, the famous Probat in Germany put the environmental problems under their consideration. Thus, Probat developed a mature technology of recycling wasted gas. They use the Ecologist Proforte processing system, by recycling the wasted gas and reducing the negative influence on the environment, therefore, increasing the power efficiency. As people are starting to care more about the environment, some processing systems are being established in China, a few big roasteries have installed their own processing systems for recycling the gas.

Also wearing an oxygen mask is a basic method of reducing the intake of poisonous gas for the roasters. At the same time, try to work in an open-air environment, because it will dilute the density of the wasted gas and also it will reduce the amount of pollution.

We believe as people are paying more attentions to this matter, the roasting system will be much better in the future. Also we hope, roasters will care more about their health while they work.

51

To process the wasted gas, released from the pre-heated beans, out of the warehouse: first process the gas alone before mixing with the normal gas, in order to separate and purify the substances within the wasted gas.

reference：●http://www. cfs.gov.hk/tc_chi/programme/programme_rafs/ programme_rafs_fc_02_07. ht m l ● ht t p : // w w w. ac r yl amide-food.org/ ●https:// www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/ flavorings/engineeringcont ro l s . h t m l ● h t t p s : // w w w. c dc . gov/ n i o s h / to p i c s / f l a vorings/processing. html●http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/ pii/S2214750015300445

Cover Story wrinkles and freckles, as well as maintaining skin softness can also be gained from green tea polyphenols, vitamin C and vitamin E.

Will we get addicted to skin care products with caffeine? Experts say “No.”The caffeine in beauty products is different from what’s in

TIPS1 ① 2 table spoons of freshly grounded coffee+2 table spoons of cocoa powder+3 table spoons of full cream milk + 1 table spoons of honey, mix together ② apply on face for 15 min, very carefully rinse off with warm water TIPS 2 ① freeze brewed coffee into cubes ② take one of the cubes and gently trace your eye area, as well as the bone structure of the face, each morning ③ it stimulates circulation, which leads to a more radiant, glowing skin.

BLACK COFFEE FOR BODY Many people know caffeine breaks down the fat cells, releasing them into the blood as free fatty acids and making them available as fuel, stimulating the nervous system, causing it to send signals to the fat cells to break down body fat. So it makes sense to have a strong cup of coffee about half an hour before you head to the gym. It also plays an important role in popular slim shaping products too.

A coffee scrub is super helpful in minimizing the appearance of cellulite, as the exfoliation and massage work together to help stimulate blood flow and tighten the skin. The effect can last up to 3 hours. One thing to notice, excessive friction will stimulate the skin, and the skin will be stimulated by more water, resulting in edema.Minimizing of cellulite is not permanent, and it requires a regular routine to optimize the best effect.

BLACK COFFEE FOR HAIR

LITTLE PARTICLES BIG CONTRIBUTIONS ESPRESSO FOR EYES

They say that shepherds were the first ones to discover that coffee can increase our energy level. But it is not so well know that coffee can be a part of your beauty regimen.Researches showed that the antioxidants in coffee can fight premature aging of the skin and increase memory. Caffeine is helpful in calming inflamed and red skin,

In a world, full of stress and family obligations, the vast majority of us are not getting enough sleep, which is the best way to go about acquiring puffy eyes and dark circles. Game changer: coffee can help you get a morning pick-me-up for your eyes, not just your brain.When applied with eye creams, the caffeine helps reduce under-eye puffiness by restricting blood flow to the area and reducing swelling.

as well as minimizing cellulite. It can even prevent and repair damages from sunlight.

Some researchers even recommend people

TIPS Lynda Torrey, Director of Education at The Woodhouse Day Spa, recommends

to take more caffeine to reduce the risk of

saving the grounds from your morning pot of coffee and setting them aside to cool

skin cancer. Caffeine, as ingredient, is used

before applying to the under eye area and eyelids. Hang out or soak in a relaxing

in more and more beauty products.

bath for about twenty minutes, then rinse off the grounds with cool water.

It is essential for loving yourself to take care of your hair.

Some people say that coffee grounds are perfect for shampoo and conditioner buildups, dandruff and dust hidden deeply.

The hair mask made from coffee not only strengthens curly hair, but also makes your hair shine, with ultimate fragrance.

TIPS ① Wet your hair and scalp with water ② Mix 1/3 cup of coffee grounds with a certain amount of hair conditioner ③ Apply evenly to hair ④ Leave it for no more than five minutes, and then rinse thoroughly with cool water to seal the hair cuticle.

RISTRETTO COFFEE FOR FEET Just as with your face and body, exfoliating your scalp is a key for eliminating buildup and dead skin cells. Ground coffee makes a great scrub for this purpose. You can make a great hand wash by adding some other ingredients including coconut oil.

TIPS Carolyn Doe, spa director at The Umstead Hotel and Spa, whips up a DIY coconut

LATTE FOR FACE Rich of antioxidants as it is, coffee can fight skin aging by damaging free radicals and threats, created by heat, light and pollution.The skin care products, that contain caffeine, are light-bodied, non greasy, like a latte with silky milk foam. Some sun-screen lip-balms even contain coffee beans essence to soften dry, chapped lips. Sometimes it works together with avocado and olives for sun-protection and reducing wrinkles. Caffeine ingredients in anti-aging products are extracted from coffee cherries, which are indeed an antioxidant blast. The contribution to reduce 52

and coffee feet scrub recipe to soothe weary feet at home. The blend of antioxidant-rich coffee and moisture-locking coconut oil makes for the perfect combination of natural ingredients to remove and repair rough skin. Doe’s recipe includes one cup of virgin coconut oil, 1/2 cup of your ground Restretto coffee, and one to two teaspoons of vanilla extract blended together. Prepare a tub of warm soapy water, then soak your feet for 10 minutes. While soaking, apply one teaspoon of the scrub to feet in a circular motion to exfoliate the dead skin. Rinse feet with warm water and pat dry—and feel free to use the scrub on the rest of your body in the shower, too.The caffeine in the coffee grounds will dehydrate the skin and the circular motion used to apply the paste will stimulate blood flow, which may result in the appearance of firmer, less dimpled skin.

53

our daily coffee, will not be absorbed and circulate in our blood. Therefore, you won’t get a coffee-high or addicted. Enjoy the benefits from antioxidants, calmed glowing skin and stimulated blood circulation.

京都

Latte Art

7

2

8

3

9

4

10

5

11

KYOTO.JPN

1

Guan Yu

By Chiyuan Cheng From Alfee Coffee, Taiwan Winner of Taiwan Latte Art Championship 2016&2017

KangbinLee ●C.THROUGH CEO ●Latte Art Expert ●Model

6

54

12

京都

Starting from 794, when Japanese emperor Kanmu moved the capital here, and till the very foundation of Tokyo, Kyoto was the capital and the main city in the country. We can say that Kyoto to Japan is something like Changan and Luoyang to China. No matter where you look in Kyoto, this city will make you feel its deep history and traditions. Even though local coffee culture is not so diverse as in Tokyo, but it is a perfect combination of ancient history, picturesque views and coffee itself.

LEEKANGBIN 91

55

01

Special Report

Close look at world coffee beans trade: China potential

KEY WORDS 2016

According to the International Coffee Organization numbers are so: October 2016, coffee export reached 9 million 130 thousand bags, about 547800 tons (60 kg / bag), compared to the same period last year: with the difference of 280 thousand bags. Arabica export volume shows good results with 71 million 930 thousand bags, 2 million 720 thousand bags more than last year; while Robusta export significantly reduced, 3 million 450 thousand bags last year.

Coffee beans production

situation has developed imbalance between demand and supply in past two years, where demand exceeds supply. So earlier produced reserves partly satisfy market needs now.

This year coffee production exceeded last years’ by 1 million 400 thousand bags. Brazil is still one of the leading coffee producing countries, followed by Vietnam and its high Robusta production.

65% 60% 55% 50%

Year

45%

-3.3 million 60kg bags. Esitimated deficit between production and con-

40%

sumption in 2015/16 35% 08/090

9/10

10/111

1/12 12/131 3/14 14/151 Arabica Robusta

5/16

16/17

Has China become a market with the biggest consumer potential?

Arabica and Robusta production scale in 2008-2016, taken from USDA.

As we see from the diagram, even though Arabica is much picky to an environment and soil, it is still much more demanded in the market than Robusta, this year ratio is close to 7:3.

According to the statistics of the London International Coffee Organization, compared to the global average growth of 2%, China consumption rate rapidly grows 15% every year, indicating big opportunities for Chinese coffee industry. In general, China coffee consumption is much less than European, but from business development point of view, China might be the most potential coffee drinking country. According to the forecasts, if every China citizen drinks one cup of coffee a day, coffee market here will reach 50 billion annual profit, so the entire producing chain will create hundred billion USD market.

Coffee beans consumption: Does demand exceed supply?

Global coffee consumption this year has grew for 1 million 900 thousand bags, comparing to last year; total consumption reached 151.3 million bags, which is about 9078000 tons.

China coffee consumption potential

THE RISE OF THE

ASIAN MARKET 56

FL/SE：1000

JPN：200

CHN:20

Nowadays, fresh coffee consumption is 87%, while instant coffee hardly gets to 13%. In China instant coffee has a lion share of market, which is 87%, while fresh coffee has only 16%. In contrast, domestic instant coffee market size is not keeping up with fresh coffee market, mainly because customers’ preferences have changed: now they tend to buy more coffee beans and go to coffee shops. Instant coffee growth is expected to drop by 8.3% in 2012-2017.

148.0

151.3

146.6

149.4

152.1

147.0

150.9

145.4

Comparing to rapidly growing coffee market in 2015, 2016 seems to be calm, settling speciality coffee culture little by little. If we take a look at the Asian market, we can clearly see that it begun to play an important role in international coffee industry. Whether it is beans production, foreign brand entering new market, three biggest barista competitions, or Yunnan province’s influence on world coffee industry – all of it happens in Asia. At the same time, local demand for coffee still grows, but coffee shops boom has slowed down as more and more cafés started thinking about how to make their work more sustainable; so we can say that Asian market is full of potential.

USA：500

cup/person/year

Year ▇ consumption；▇ production

Coffee industry consumption in 2014-2015 was higher than the output. In the 2015/16, production and sales deficit has reached 3 million 300 thousand bags. This means that 2012 and 2013 coffee oversupply

57

Special Report

03

02

Cold Brewed Coffee & Nitro Coffee, A New Trend in Coffee Industry

CEO back downs,Starbucks will influence coffee industry a lot

Although living in the era where the third wave of specialty coffee is the main topic, Starbucks, this iconic second wave specialty coffee, can still grabs people’s attentions as it makes every move. In 2016, Starbucks has also made a lot of actions：

As some new trends are formed in European countries in recent years, “Cold Brewed coffee” (aka cold brew) has become the new star in the coffee industry of this summer. Under the influences of some famous coffee brands like Starbucks, “Nitro Coffee” has also grown into this year’s hottest topic in the coffee world. You can’t judge a book by its cover, this kind of black coffee has become the mainstream in the market.

Starbucks Cold Brewed Series

The Trend of Cold Brewed Coffee According to the data of Foodservice Coffee Market Trends in the U.S., right now there is a 10% of American customers, who say they often drink iced coffee or cold brewed coffee. The real situation states, 14% of the coffee drinkers have already tried the cold brew in the diner or in the café.

From the research of the site Mintel, between the year of 2014 and 2015, the sales volume of cold brewed coffee has increased to 7.9 million dollars, that’s about 115% increased volume. Compare to 2010, the increased volume over the last five years has gone to 339%.

At the same time, cold brewed coffee is also dominating the Chinese market, it falls under the love of the teenagers and some other people. According to Starbucks, its Reserve in China has been providing cold brew since August 2015, the amount of coffee selling in a single store is about 120 cups per day, the cold brew is usually sold out at 3 pm. This year, Starbucks expanded the areas of cold brew in the Chinese market, it also announced the exclusive coffee bean for their cold brew. Besides Starbucks, a lot of franchised cafes and some independence ones have also started to provide cold brew, they are selling merchandises about cold brewed coffee in stores, like cold brewe in a bottle or filled in a can. You can really see the popularity of this cold brewed drink.

Nitro Coffee Not only the cold brewed coffee has become the new pet of the coffee world, its upgraded version Nitro Coffee has turned into the second biggest trend. Nitro coffee is the new kind of coffee this year.

Like it says, it literally fills the cold brewed coffee with nitrogen, the coffee mix with the nitrogen, it forms a lot of small little bubbles and it makes the coffee tastes like a bottle of stout.

Stumptown Coffee Roaster in U.S. is the leader of this hot trend. Back in 2013, Stumptown started trying to mimic the taste of stout, at last, they thought of an idea of injecting nitrogen. The first step is no different from the cold brewe, using iced water to extract the liquid after the coffee bean is grinded, this process takes about 18-20 hours. After that, put the coffee into the pressure barrel and fill the barrel with nitrogen. At last, customers will see something like a tap in the bar——the barista opens the tap and gives you a nice glass of nitro coffee. When I came across some cafes in Hong Kong, I discovered almost every café offers nitro coffee. Although this product is still underrated, in the future, nitro coffee will be the new leader in the coffee world.

58

>

>

In April 2016, the cold brewed coffee, which was sold only in Starbucks Reserve, now appears on every menu in other regular Starbucks stores. At the same time, Starbucks also includes the exclusive coffee bean combination for the cold brewe. The equipment Starbucks uses to make the cold brewe is called Toddy Brewer, it usually takes about 14 hours to extract the liquid under room temperature. Other coffee brands had announced their cold brewed coffee in early years, however this year the cold brewed coffee became more popular under the great influences of Starbucks. At the end of this year, Starbucks will bring the North American’s favorite nitro coffee into China, right now only two Starbucks Reserve in Shanghai and Beijing provide limited cups of nitro coffee.

Marching into the tea market In August 2016, Starbucks officially introduced Teavana to the Chinese market, with two iced shaken tea products: Iced peach green tea (or oolong) and iced grapefruit honey black tea. Early in 2012, Starbucks bought Teavana, which is a specialty tea and tea accessory retailer based in Atlanta for 6.2 billion dollars. As the Teavana series are introduced, Starbucks says looking into the potentials of Chinese tea market, Teavana is a very important strategy point for Starbucks. In the next five years, Starbucks will plan to increase their tea business into 30 billion dollars.

Starbucks Roast Dream Factory

The Change of the Top Management

Another exciting news for the coffee lovers is that at the end of 2017, Starbucks will open their second worldwide roast factory at Xingye Taiguhui on West Nanjing Road in Shanghai’s downtown area. There will be about nine sections include the roast factory itself, café, products exhibitions and a diner, it will have a live display of information about coffee (information includes what kind of coffee bean is roasting and the background of this coffee bean, etc.), it will even have a counter for selling coffee bean like the one in Public Market Center in Seattle. In the roast factory, the menu will be redesigned from the regular store. In the only one opened in Seattle, the menu includes latte, cappuccino and 37 other coffee mix drinks, and also it has different coffee beans that change over time. Additionally, on march 31st 2016, Starbucks chose to bring Starbucks Evenings, which is already out in N.A and British market, into Tokyo, Japan for the first time. Furthermore, Starbucks plans to open a roast factory in both Tokyo and New York in 2018.

In October 2016, former president of Starbucks in China Jingying Wang was promoted to CEO, and Delin Cai as COO in China. Despite the changes of the top management in Asia, another imminent matter is going to happen at the end of this year: former CEO Howard Schultz, age 63, is going Kevin Johnson/Howard Schultz to reassign his position to source：Business Wire the board director of the company in April 2017, he is going to focus on the designs, innovations and developments of Starbuck Reserve. Although the share price of Starbucks dropped 11% once the word was out, it is not a bad idea if this change of the company is going to help Starbucks to strengthen their lines of quality coffee, and it is going to continue boosting the quality of the brand.

59

Special Report

05

The dust around SCAA and SCAE has settled

Asians Players in World Coffee Events

Since June 2015, at the World of Coffee Gotheburg, SCAE’s vice president (CEO now) Paul Stack had announced the idea that the company will merge with SCAA, the news about these two biggest companies of specialty coffee merge together was unstoppable.

2016 World Barista Championship

The Specialty Coffee Association of Europe, aka SCAE, established

The Specialty Coffee Association of America, aka SCAA, estab-

in London in 1998, right now has about 3000 members across over

lished in 1982, has about 3000 member-companies, which cover different areas of coffee business, across over

70 different countries. Also, SCAE has

Berg Wu from Taiwan, China made his way to the champion. He started to compete in the WBC since the beginning of 2014, at the first time he got the seventh place which was the best record in Taiwan’s history. He didn’t give up, this year he competed in WBC again, with his excellent skills, he finally won the first place. Japanese player Yoshikazu Iwase won the second place. Also another player representing China, Ying Hu, who won the first place in Chinese division in 2015, got the twelfth place.

These were the best results Chinese players have ever made in this international event.

40 countries in the world. It is the largest plat-

many branches in 35 countries. Its cam-

form in the world for sharing and trading spe-

paigns of specialty coffee have won many

cialty coffee and one of the most powerful certi-

D YE

ME MBER

S

VO

international approvals over the years.

UL

Between March 29th and April 1st in 2016, HOTELEX Shanghai was held successfully. As one of the hottest topics of this year, HOTELEX together with WCE brought six international coffee events, four of them were international finals------World Latte Art Championship, World Cup Taster Championship, World Coffee Roasting Championship and World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship appeared in China for the first time, this definitely was an approval to the Chinese coffee market and the Chinese coffee industries.

fied international coffee training organizations.

TS

The two associations state, right now they are trying to combine all the educational projects into a mutually beneficial system, at the same time, the privileges and certifications, that the members have, will not change. Besides that, the two organizations also promise the events and competitions in 2017 will be held according to the schedule.Of course, there are some challenges, huge amounts of people in one new organization may cause bureaucracy, weakens the executional actions of the new organization.

Language may also be a challenging issue and the differences in management and developing goals on both sides, they need time to get along with each other. In fact, SCAA and SCAE had their idea of getting together for a long time, the most important one they both had been working on is the WCE and some other big international events include WBC. Also, depending on the finical data of both sides, by 2021, the total income of these two together had reached 26 million dollars, compare to 15 million dollars in 2015, the number increased a lot.

F I N AL R ES

04

2016 World Latte Art Championship Historically three Asians got the first three titles of the competition! Um Paul from Korea, with his brilliant sleights of skills, won the championship; Chinese player Qi Li got the second place on his debut; Japanese player Minako won the third place.

2016 World Brewer Cup There were three Asian players in the final six, they were Testu Kasuya who won the champion, Chad Wang from Taiwan who was the second and Benny Wong who won the fourth place.

2016 World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship At the same time, both competing in two contests, Berg Wu and Ying Hu were the real stars. Berg Wu didn’t let anyone down, he won the third place expectantly, and Ying Hu won the fifth.

At last, after two years of discussions and voting, these two associations were officially united on August 11th 2016. From the results of the voting, the percentage of the votes from two sides had made a great history. On the day of August 5th, 56% members of SCAA participated in the voting, and 62% of the members said yes; Earlier on May 20th, 86% of the members in SCAE voted yes out of 51% of the members. However, the usual percentage of the voting is around 10%.These exceptionally high numbers explained the urgent feelings of these two associations wanted to unite together, for the supporters this action deserved to be revolutionary. Indeed, the changes in the coffee market will make impacts on the price chain of the industry. Nowadays more and more coffee professionals are rising, it is necessary for these two elite companies to join together. The merge will also bring a lot of advantages for the coffee market, include ●

Building in the resource network and helping each other to find resources

●

Two projects that have the greatest influence in the coffee education in

In June, 2014, executive members of two associations met in Rimini, Italy, discussed the possibilities of the working together.

In the second half of 2015, the two associations gave out surveys for their members.

In January 2016, associations met their point, continued pushing their goal, and also signed the contract.

On March 31st 2016, at the HOTELEX Shanghai, David Veal and

the world: SCAE Coffee Diploma and SCAA Pathways will merge to-

Paul Stack of SCAE indicated the point of merging into SCAA is

gether, in the future there will be only one system in the world, and it will

to achieve the continuous development of the coffee industry.

be taught by the professionals, authors and development members.● Big

On May 23rd 2016, Paul Stack of SCAE officially announced the

boosts on the world influence, events and competitions, standard Besides that, in the 2016 World Cup Taster Championship, Dongho Lee, a handsome youngman from Korea, won

trainings and diplomas, etc. ● To the retailers, especially the small

the second place with his great performance. In the Roasting contest, Yuya Kawai from Japan, Seong Jun from Korea,

ones, the merge will bring them more knowledge, more feedbacks from

Crazy Veiser from China and Stanley Wu from Taiwan all had advanced into the final twelve, they were rep-

the clients worldwide, and also more resources of high-quality raw

resenting the top levels of Asian roasting techniques. Additionally, these Asian coffee waves are sweeping

beans. ● The new organization will perform “One Man One Vote”,

the European nations, even some European players start to look for Asian coaches. Next year, World Barista

granting everyone rights to participate in every decision. The motto

Championship is going to take place in Seoul, this will be the second time in Asia after the one in Japan.

“Members First” never changes.

60

voting results: SCAE agrees to join SCAA. On June 30th 2016, former SCAA president Donald Schoenholt together with 11 members of the 38 former presidents declared that they don’t want to join with SCAE, they tried to convince the board not to support the union.

On August 10th, 2016, SCAA announced the voting result, majority of the members agreed on the action.

61

Special Report

06

Upon the continuous development and the boost in technology in 2016, much smarter coffee machines appear in front of people’s eyes. From the famous La Marzocco, UNIC, Slayer to the new pet Poursteady and OTFES, it is like all of a sudden, all brands are heading to the same direction, technology.

New Revolution of Espresso Machine, Much More Compact ●

07

Yunnan coffee potential: the rise of international awareness

C offee Equipment is Becoming Smarter

Modbar Mod bar has the latest pressure profiling system for the coffee brew-

One of the first provinces in China to grow coffee, Yunnan has a rich coffee planting history and was ranked as one of the best coffee planting area in the world, due to its unique geographical and climatic environment.

At the beginning of the year Yunnan area cultivated with coffee was 1 million 770 thousand acres, with a total output of 139 thousand tons of beans, which covers more than 99% of country’s demand. Moreover, Puer city, with its 700 thousand acres planting area, became coffee trade center, that is one more reason why China Fruit Association called Puer “Coffee capital of China” .In the first half of 2016 Yunnan exported 59 thousand and 500 tons of coffee and earned about $245 million, setting new record. This year Yunnan held several big coffee events:

Official launch of Coffee Trade Center in Puer City

In September 2016 Aini Coffee opened “first in China geisha coffee plantation”, also in Yunnan. This is a milestone for the development of the entire Chinese coffee industry, as well as Yunnan coffee planting and breeding.

Moreover, in recent years, Starbucks, Maxwell and several other big coffee brands opened their purchasing coffee centers also in Yunnan, and big number of those stores sell Yunnan coffee beans directly.

Among them Nestlé is the largest distributor of Yunnan coffee, in 2015 the purchase volume reached 12 thousand tons, almost two times more than Starbucks.

Nestlé high-end capsules coffee brand Nespresso also has Yunnan beans inside, putting “Yunnan Limited Edition” tag on the package. In March 2016 Nestlé opened a new Nescafé Coffee Centre for research and development in the city of Puer, Yunnan China; as at that time CEO, Paul Bulcke, announced “China will become the largest Nestlé coffee market in the future”.

Today's Yunnan coffee industry is a complete industrial chain from planting, processing and consumption to marketing, and it cover more than 1% of the world's total coffee production. In the nearest future “Made in Yunnan” can proudly present China coffee products, and we are looking forward to see it.

ing system, and it has three separated mod designs for the espresso, drip and steam system. It makes the number-adjusting in each mod possible, and precisely increases

January 12, with the use of modern technologies, Puer City Coffee Trade Center officially launched, having all available and open information on world coffee industry and creating fast and safe platform with adequate and systematic service. Center's online launch marked start of Yunnan speciality coffee online trade. Puer coffee is mainly used for export, but the price is unstable as it is linked to international futures prices, what led to Puer coffee underpricing. As the largest coffee trading center and the third party service platform, Yunnan Coffee Trade Center from the beginning has been letting more and more of Yunnan coffee to enter international high quality coffee market with the right of setting its own price.

the quality of each cup of coffee. ●

MAVAM Espresso By using the method called under counter, it increases the

stability of the coffee machine efficiently. Compact body design makes the coffee bar not only a working area for the baristas, but also a nice platform for the baristas and the customers to communicate with each other. Performance-wise, MAVAM Espresso has the ability of self-presoaking. You can adjust the numbers for extraction time and water temperature depending on how well the bean is cooked. You can also switch freely between auto and mutual on the extraction mode. ●

Brew Bar This coffee machine, designed in Australia, where they have the idea

of compact body, has 25% more power than the market ones. Also, you can decide if you want a single or multiple type depending on your stores or your house. Its unique foot-control brew bar design is their biggest selling point.

Smart Drip Coffee Machine Hand-off is not a Dream Anymore

New Experiences on the Touchscreen

Poursteady This machine is designed by an engineer who loves drip coffee very

This year, more and more cafes are starting to use the

much, its brewing process is very much alike the method how the barista pours the

“self-serving touchscreen system”, not only you can

water in a circle. Having the power to make five drip coffee in a single button pressed,

reserve your orders via APP, you can also experience

Internet connections and the ability to change ratios at any time, everyone wants to get

the self-serving system in store. With the help of some

one, including Starbucks.

specific instructions, you can order everything yourself.

●

Besides, this year, at every exhibition one of the aspects to focus on was the trend of automations of the coffee machines. For instance, an UR5 machine arm that can do a whole set of barista’s movements just by a touch of a button; Bullet R1 Roaster from Aillio that can achieve “one button roasting” just by changing a few settings and Smart Tamers from MG Coffee, etc. Facing the waves of smart technologies, they make people wonder, what will the future development of the coffee industry ●

be like when the skills of the baristas and the automa-

OTFES This hottest smart drip machine has three

tions of the machines mix perfectly well together.

amazing features: first is their own patented “spiral” design, it not only increases the extraction percentage of the coffee, also levels the texture of the taste; Second, it records different method, water temperature and usage, exact drip coffee flavor; Last, the stable performance of

In February 2016, China Coffee Testing Laboratory was established, filling the blank space in China coffee industry and providing a great support to international coffee trade. In addition, this establishment brought strict coffee inspections, scientific tests and researches, personnel training and international tech collaborations in order to create multifunctional platform and to develop more Puer City and Yunnan coffee industry.

26th International Conference on Coffee Sciences November 13, 2016, 26th International Conference on Coffee Sciences (ASIC) opened its doors in Kunming.

ASIC is the most influential and famous conference in the coffee industry, also known as coffee Olympics. This time main topic was “Exchange of coffee science innovations”, which made 400 professionals from USA, France, Germany, England and 60 other countries to gather together and share newest coffee science news.

YUN-NAN

COFFEE

even data of each barista, then copy them to make the

Establishing National Coffee Testing Laboratory

International brands’ collaboration brings new opportunities to Yunnan

the double boiler decreases the temperature differences between the water and the boiler itself at a maxim level.

62

63

Special Report

08

Beginning of Robusta era?

Climate change is ringing alarm bells: are coffee production areas in danger?

Today climate still plays a tremendous role in coffee industry, as SCAA (Specialty Coffee Association of America) stated in their latest report “The blueprint for coffee in a changing climate''; and according to IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) forecast, greenhouse gas growth will lead global temperature to increase approx. +0.5-8.7 ℃. Global warming can also make the weather more extreme, provoking storms, floods and droughts. Coffee as one of the crops, needs to be cultivated in an average annual temperature of 18-21 ℃, too high or too low temperatures can extremely harm coffee plants. That is how IPCC state that according to current climate change speed, cultivated coffee territories will shrink up to 50%, and by 2050, most of those amazing coffee plantation will not be able to continue growing coffee.

Earlier this year Australian Sydney Institute of Climate Studies published latest academic report, pointing out that, if global warming continues in the current trajectory, wild coffee beans may be extinct in Sydney by 2080.

Can Arabica become extinct?

Leaf rust is the biggest danger to the coffee plants and because market demands faster growth, many farmers choose not to grow coffee in shade anymore. And as it happened in Mexico and Central America, that is exactly the main reason of leaf rust spreading there, it has already affected coffee trees from Mexico to Peru.

During recent 56 years annual coffee production grew 3 times and demand grows 5% every year.

Such a rapid growth was possible only thanks to 2 500 000 coffee farmers, 80%-90% of whom are small business owners; and for them climate change in coffee belt is crucial.

Unlike strong Robusta, Arabica is very sensitive to changes. Almost all of produced Arabica beans come from Ethiopian mountains, this limits its genetic diversity, making it very vulnerable to climate change. For example, temperature raise in Mexico brought severe rains, which can even lead to storms and having no harvest. Mexico is not an exception, in other dry places coffee cherries also face some serious troubles. Climate in Central Africa gets hotter and hotter, so the plant flowers fall too early, and even if not, very often cherries themselves grow dry and small. And the saddest part is that coffee natural enemies are better adapted to hot temperatures, what includes leaves rust.

Earlier we already mentioned the shortage of coffee beans for the last two years, so reserving Robusta became a plan B. At the same time, there are few companies that can produce, roast and sell Robusta. And there is an obvious question: in a situation of climate changes, aren’t Robusta sales going to grow?

Even though Robusta is one of the most sold types of coffee, but it has special characteristics: same amount of beans will have twice caffeine than in Arabica and has less sweetness. Italy is the first country to use Robusta, also Vietnam and Malaysia widely use it, as well as in Taiwan; nowadays Robusta is the most used commercial kind of coffee.

According to Vietnamese September issue of “Economic Times”, Vietnam Western Highlands green coffee prices have reached $1771-1794/ton, compared with the end of August $176.76 /ton and $441.89/ton year before. Starting in June with the price of $1650 per ton, now the price is higher for more than $200, $1900/ton, precisely. According to Vietnamese experts analysis, the main reason of Robusta higher prices is imbalance between demand and supply. First 8 months of 2016 brought Vietnam $2 billion 250 million with 1 million 270 thousand tons of coffee sold, which is more than last year by 20.7% and 39.9%. Vietnam has already exported the most part of Robusta and domestic stocks are almost empty, while Brazilian and Indonesian Robusta is not enough to satisfy market needs.

The annual trade data shows coffee consumption growth, but at the same time, due to climate and environment changes, coffee production is pretty slow. If annual rate of consumption continues to grow by 2%, does it mean that the gap between demand and supply going to be bigger and bigger? Or it will stimulate Robusta consumption?

Regarding this matter, SCAA worked on initiatives for different roles in the industry chain:

Coffee farmers to reduce coffee trees temperature,

2013-2015

Production impact

Working places reduction

Total damage

El Salvador

↓378,000

45,000

Export income↓20%

Honduras

↓1,300,000

50,000

Export income ↓45%

bags

bags

Guatemala

↓583,000

bags

71,000

Export income ↓42%

Nicaragua

↓475,000

bags

64,000

Export income ↓33%

Costa Rica

↓71,000

25,000

Export income ↓28%

bags

64

Climate change will affect every step in producing coffee. Because of having to o m a ny u nce r t a i n r i sk s , farmers and coffee companies have to spend more money to control the quality of coffee, including logistics, which will be also affected by global warming.

A n d a s a re s u l t o f h i g h e r price for beans, the cup of coffee will also be more expensive.

farmers can plant it in shade, also they can select more resistant to insects and rusts type of plants.

Baristas and roasters using clients’ feedback, can help

coffee suppliers and producers to work on stable quality and quantity under climate change conditions.

Coffee consumers by buying the bag with fare trade tag,

they can also make an impact. And the most direct way to help is to stop using disposable cups and try to use personal reusable cups.

65

Special Report

09

O N Y X Pro

New wave of instant coffee

In 2000, with the rise of third wave of speciality coffee, more and more people started paying attention to coffee producing regions’ differences, saying that every cup of coffee has unique taste. Even so, according to a survey, worldwide there are 34% of coffee consumers, whose first choice is still instant coffee. For example, South Korea is the head of Asian instant coffee market, over last 15 years Korean coffee consumption reached 20% of world coffee market sales volume. Moreover, by 2018 South Korea instant coffee market is expected to be worth more than $35 billion. In those circumstances, many industry insiders started to think about combining instant coffee convenience and speciality coffee excellence to create a product that combines it all.

In 2016 Time Magazine described Sudden Coffee as “Instant coffee you'll actually want to drink” , attracting a lot of industry people as well as just coffee lovers. Sudden Coffee is not a stereotypical bad quality instant coffee; high quality and low price made it possible for people to fall in love with this coffee fast and enjoy coffee shop quality cup at home.

Recently, the company has received a $2 million 700 thousand venture capital fund. In addition, in December 2016 Sudden Coffee said that they hope to keep the gap between their product and traditional instant coffee and make the concept of “No-Brew Coffee” more attractive, by delivering smooth, rich taste and excellent quality.

Moreove r, Fede r at ion Nat ion a l de C a fe te ros de Colombia(FNC) instant coffee brand, Buencafe, has launched new high quality freeze-drying system to support instant coffee trend. As the matter of fact, this brand owns the biggest freeze-drying factories in Colombia and already has 42 year of freeze-drying experience. After using extremely low temperature to freeze coffee extract, liquid is forced to change into hard granules; this is the best way to preserve original coffee flavor. The latest Buencafe capsule collection was also very popular. With more and more companies entering speciality instant coffee market, more and more people start to choose exactly this type of coffee. Does it mean that instant coffee rebirth can create the next trend? Can’t wait to see.

HAVE YOU EVER FELT

THE NEED TO CUSTOMIZE AN ESPRESSO MACHINE?

The Rise Of Coffee Market In Asia r e f e r e n c e ： http://www.scaa.org/PDF/scaa-wp-climate-

ICONIC EVENTS

change.pdf?utm_campaign=Revue%20newsletter&utm_ medium=Newsletter&utm_source=revue http://www.asic2016china.org/index.asp?cs=zh https://apps.fas.usda.gov/psdonline/circulars/coffee.pdf http://www.ico.org/monthly_coffee_trade_stats.asp http://www.starbucks.com https://read01.com/neKk63.html http://www.kafeipp.com/news/1163.html http://www.icaidao.com/xianhuo/185846212421.html http://scae.com/news-and-events/unification http://www.slush.org/news/artisanal-instant-coffeecompany-sudden-coffee-announced-2-7-m-seed-round/ http://www.tmtpost.com/1710759.html

66

http://onyx.creminternational.com

15th Seoul International Cafe Show

Exhibitor Registration Now On-going ~ 31st January (Tue)

This year from October 10th to October 13th, The 15th Seoul Int’l Cafe Show, Asian biggest international exhibition, was held in Convention and Exhibition Center (COEX) in Seoul, South Korea. Sponsored by International coffee Organization (ICO), this annual exhibition demonstrated a lot of new opportunities and industry trends for coffee, tea and ice cream in Asia and around the globe.

Exhibition covered an area of 36,000 square meters, having 580 exhibitors from 41 countries and 150,730 visitors. At the same time, several public talks and seven different international coffee competition, like Korea Barista Championship、World Latte Art Battle、World Signature Battle etc..

Close look at the competitions Latte Art Championship

Signature Championship

Lee Hae-kyung 1st 2nd Um Paul 3 rd Choi Won-jae

Winner of Latte Art championship/winner Creative drinks Championship(both photos are taken from CoffeeTV)

High-tech The exhibition was divided into 3 areas: food and beverage equipment, tea and roasting, specialty coffee and coffee equipment; each of big international brands’ stands presented new products. While technology and automation are still a hot topics in the coffee world.

Vietnam Int’l Cafe Show 2017

Sustainable development The theme of this year’s Café Show is “Thank you, Coffee”, which focused our attention on climate change and reducing the environmental harm during production; increase of coffee fare trade gives us all hope.

World Coffee Leader Forum

2nd(Thu) – 4th(Sat) March, 2017 SECC, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Chairman of WCE, Michael Yung, chairman of IWCA, Mery Santos, SCAA science research leader, Emma Sage, three champions of 2014-2016 WBC, Hidenori Izaki, Sasa Sestic, Wu Zelin, and others gathered together to share their experience and their thoughts with an audience.

Participation Inquiry | T. +82-2-6000-6671/6676 F. +82-2-2051-3326 E. info@cafeshow.com Organized by 69

1st 2nd 3 rd

Go Eun-mi Park Yeong-bin Lee Ji-hoon

Café Asia & ICT Industry Expo 2017

Thailand Coffee, Tea & Drinks 2017

2 - 4 March 2017, Marina Bay Sands Expo & Convention Centre, Hall E

16-19 March 2017, IMPACT Muang Thong Thani, Hall 1-2

As the premier trade and consumer exhibition in Southeast Asia catering to the café, coffee and tea communities, Café Asia & ICT Industry Expo will bring together café owners and managers, coffee and tea exporters and importers as well as distributors and suppliers of café-related machinery and equipment in a dynamic marketplace.

The giants of ASEAN (Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand , Singapore, Philippines & Vietnam) with a total combined population of 625 million and a combined growth of 5% annually, will be able to use Café Asia 2017, Singapore as the best platform for suppliers and exporters to showcase their coffee/tea commodities, beverages , accessories, equipment and supplies to the

ASEAN buyers and beyond.

The bakery and confectionery sectors are booming in Singapore and the ASEAN countries alongside the café industry. To keep up with the fast developing markets for superior quality pastries and dessert items, the Sweets & Bakes Asia (SBA) 2017 will be the marketplace to showcase the latest bakery industry innovations to visitors seeking to keep up with the current and latest trends.

So join us at Café Asia, International Coffee & Tea Expo and Sweets & Bakes Asia 2017, Singapore to expand your business and network with the new entrepreneurs in the Café & Bakery Industry!! http://www.cafeasia.com.sg/

We are excited to be announcing the great news for entrepreneurs and all players in the F&B industry.

Thailand’s largest coffee, pastry, and ice-cream exhibition is set to return for its 11th year on 16-19 March, 2017. The approaching event will come back with over 300 booths by more than 150 exhibitors, who are ready to go all in with special promotions and exclusive discounts, and myriad of exciting activities guaranteed to impress buyers and business owners looking for new ideas and equipment from around the globe in this “One Stop Shop” event.

With more exhibitors joining the event, the ex-

hibition area will be 15% larger than the previous edition. Over 150 local and international exhibitors will be presenting their products and services for coffee, pastry, and ice-cream industry. In addition to products and services, Thailand Coffee, Tea & Drinks 2017 is also hosting cake and pastry workshop by renowned pastry chef and the highly-anticipated competitions including the 10th Thailand Barista Championship that searches for Thailand’s next representative for the World Barista Championship. (+66) 02-861-4013 www.thailandcoffee.net www.thailandbakery.net

Hotelex Shanghai 2017 28-31 March 2017, Shanghai New International Expo Centre(SNIEC) As the most international event of its kind in China with more than 25 years’history, HOTELEX Shanghai attracts 2,200 exhibitors, 117,000 visitors and 4,800 overseas buyers every year, creating an excellent platform for sourcing, procurement and industry exchange.

HOTELEX Shanghai also plays host to 30+ world-renowned special events, ranging from barista championships, cooking competitions, baking competitions, uniform shows and table art competitions to bring together an unparalleled experience for industry professionals and beyond.

The next HOTELEX Shanghai will take place on March 28-31, 2017.

Available Now on iPad & iPhone! http://en.hotelex.cn/exhibition/shanghai/

71

（Mr. Alex Ni）+86 21 3339 2242 alex.ni@ubmsinoexpo.com

Competition

World Coffee Championship of Korea 2017 Announced Korea representatives during WCE 2017 December 6th-9th, Café & Bakery fair was held in Korean International Expo Center, Kintex. At the same time, South Korea held 5 competitions, which were sponsored by WCE. World Barista Championship 2017(WBC) will also be held in Seoul, South Korea. In addition, sponsored by SCAJ(Specialty Coffee Association of Japan), Siphonist Championship will be held outside of Japan for the first time.

Expo included Korea National Barista Championship (KNBC), Korea Brewers Cup Championship (KBrC), Korea Cup Tasters Championship (KCTC), Korea Latte Art Championship(KLAC), Korea Coffee in Good Spirits Championship(KCGSC), Korea Siphonist Championship (KSC), the winners will participate in the next year's WCE world-class events. Each year WCE hosts series of events, gathering high-level baristas from over 60 countries to compete and know who is the best.

November 18th-21st, Taipei International Nangang Exhibition Center opened its doors to Taiwan International Coffee Expo, during same period of time, there were also held World Barista Championship Trial 2016, World Latte Art Championship 2017 Trial, Coffee in Good Spirits Championship 2017 Trial, who later announced the winners.

Third World Coffee Championships Taiwan Trials Announcing the finalists World Barista Championship Trial 2016 1st

Lv Yibei (Single Origin Espresso & Roast)

2nd

L ai Mengxin ( S im ple Kaffa)

3 rd

Weng Xiaoqian (Pe ace & Love C afé)

The winner will represent Taiwan during World Barista Championship 2017, which will be held in Seoul, South Korea.

World Latte Art Championship 2017 Taiwan Trial Korea National Barista Championship (KNBC) 2017

Korea Cup Tasters Championship (KCTC)2017

1st

Zheng Zhiyuan (ALFEE Coffee) Zhang Zhongrui (Oracle Coffee) Lin Xinying (UCC)

1st

Bang Jun-bae

Andrea Plus

1st

Son Jae-hyeon Individually

2nd

2nd

Song In-ho

SPC

2nd

Park Jung-Hoon Stitch Coffee Roasters

3 rd

3 rd

Kim Jin-hyeok

J Square

3 rd

Ryu Cheong-nim Gold Tree Coffee

Korea Brewers Cup Championship (KBrC) 2017

Korea Coffee in Good Spirits Championship (KCGSC) 2017

1st

Han Kyo-reh

Conversation

1st

Kim Dae-keun

Blackin Lab

2nd

Jang Moon-gyu

Signature Roasters

2nd

Yoon Yong-hwi

Bever Easy

Fritz Coffee Company

3 rd

Pang Hyeon-young Bean Project

A f te r w i n n i n g l a s t ye a r, Z he n g Z h iy u a n proved his title in this year’s trial. next June , he will represent Taiwan for international championship held in Budapest, Hungary.

3 rd

Kim Young-Sun

Coffee in Good Spirits Championship 2017 Trial The winner

Korea Siphonist Championship (KSC) 2017

Korea Latte Art Championship(KLAC) 2017

1st

Mo Ar-reun

The Beaner

1st

Won Seon-bon Individually

2nd

An Dae-min

UCC Coffee Korea

2nd

Choi Won-jae Oneway

3 rd

Choi Seung-jin

Ediya Coffee Lab

3 rd

Won Dan-hui Individually

72

Gao Xinjie

November 18th, Coffee in Good Spirits Championship 2017 Taiwan Trial were held in Taipei Nangang Exhibition Hall, and after the hard day of competing, the winners were announced. Gao Xinjie took the first price, and next year she will represent Taiwan in Budapest during for Coffee in Good Spirits Championship 2017.

73

Event Story/ClayZ

Does your coffee shop need only good coffee?

RE:VERB

Global elite coffee forum in China

Kalle Freese

Thanks to active collaboration of WCE and JASCAFFE, the widely known elite coffee forum Re:verb is finally in China. Re:verb is a platform for people who love coffee to gather and share their insight and thoughts on coffee industry development and opportunities. Different ways of interaction is what makes Re:verb unlike any other forum, it does not claim to be educational, on the contrary, it is more like a salon: stage is full of coffee products, while people off stage constantly ask questions and make notes.

First Danielle came into contact with coffee when she was 14 in her father’s coffee shop after school she decided to study graphic design, then she showed great results in Tonx so had a chance to join Blue Bottle Coffee team. Danielle’s advice on brand design is simple: to focus more on your values than on brand logo. For example, if your brand is a mountain, then your logo is going to be a peak of an iceberg reflecting in the water surface. To support it you need brand’s goods, services and most importantly, value system and beliefs. If you create your own brand, you need to be able to describe brand’s value in three words, for example: what kind of coffee it is, what your team is like, if you do any extra services and what kind of customer you want to attract. So when shaping brand, you can imagine that it is a person with a unique set of characteristics, that is why you do not want your brand to please everyone, but to have precise positioning. Also while creating a logo, it is not necessary to add any coffee elements in it, because your product itself already has coffee inside.

Nowadays the trend is simplicity and original design that reflects brands’ unique values. So when you look for the right designer, stay in close contact with him/ her to be sure that he/she can clearly understand your brand’s values instead of simply chasing visual effects.

Danielle Harris

Creating right coffee experience: hospitality and design.

Finding new possibilities and markets Kalle Freese is one of the founders of Sudden Coffee, this good quality tube instant coffee was described in New Your Times as “instant coffee you’ll actually want to drink”.

Before giving a speech, Kalle agreed to tell us his coffee story. He fell in love with coffee in high school, since then he has won Finnish Barista Championship twice and had 9th result in World Barista Championship. First he opened his own coffee shop in Helsinki, which with time became coffee lovers’ destination. But Kalle was still not satisfied, so he was ready to take a risk and do something different. So he combined technology of Silicon Valley and his own knowledge to create a new brand of coffee, Sudden Coffee. After carefully roasting the best beans and manually extracting espresso goes dry compressing to create a coffee powder. Using all those steps makes flavors to be locked in coffee granules, what means that it does not matter if you make it with hot water, cold water, juice, milk or alcohol, you will still enjoy a rich taste of coffee.

During his speech Kalle highlighted that one should not be scared and worried about his product, instead needs to be brave to launch it and let it enter the market as soon as possible, and if it is possible to get the feedback, do not stop improving the product.

74

Bennet Cross is Equator Coffees and Teas’ retail operations project manager; earlier he was also a member of Blue Bottle Coffee team. He claimed that, in fact, coffee is a part of food and beverages industry, which is always oriented on people’s needs. For cafés the most important part is how you experience the whole product, guests may forget taste of their coffee, but they will never forget your level of service. First step in taking care of your guests is caring about your employees, because they are the people who are in close contact with all the customers and who can make them feel wanted. In addition, Bennet suggested several ways how to improve customer service: number one is to have a “journey mapping”, which means to write down and think about your own feelings when you are a customer of any other restaurant, coffee shop, café and so on, this will let you clearly analyze what you need to bring or improve in your coffee house. One more way to highlight your café is to look around places that you go to yourself and notice every detail and what kind of feelings they bring you, and at the same time you also need to create kind of a map for baristas, letting them understand how and why guests’ behavior changes after entering a coffee shop, thus step by step you will find your own design for a coffee place.

Bennett Cross 75

* The statistics have been audited based on the evaluation at HOTELEX Shanghai 2016

Event

Coffee experience – new possibility of redefying everything.

Isabela Raposeira is a coffee goddess from Brazil who has been in the coffee industry for 17 years.

She explained that because the term “speciality coffee” was born not so long ago in 1974 and is only 42 years old, so the major part of consumers do not understand the role it plays in the industry, therefore industry people are more responsible for educating the consumer to make them understand what a good cup of coffee is and what they really want. In her Coffee Lab she often holds coffee events, which are aimed to bring new coffee experience to the customer.

For example, she lets customers try by themselves high quality and poor quality coffee, and after careful comparison people would clearly understand why they like high quality speciality coffee. Coffee Lab is also one of the industry’s leaders as they work with high quality beans and attract a large number of coffee lovers and people who want to know more about it.

116,688

116

Professional Visitors

Countries’ Buyers

2,207

250,000 m2

Exhibitors

Exhibition Space

Isabela Raposeiras

Good quality coffee is not just a short trend.

Michal is a founder of “Standard” magazine; at the age of 22 in times of traditional media recession he made a crucial decision to open a totally different magazine. Talking about his life, coffee industry experience and also summarizing points of 4 previous speakers, Michal said that design, marketing, service and creativity play the most important roles in the industry, and that according to his own observations, speciality coffee is not just a short trend, but a long lasting tendency.

For now speciality coffee has difficulties in all of the countries, but that is exactly why we all need to work harder and look for opportunities. As a magazine balancing between industry and ordinary people, we need to always look for interesting stories, that will make customers get to know coffee makers, understand what speciality coffee is and let them accept it gradually.

Michal Molcan

March 28 - 31,2017 Shanghai New International Expo Center

Shanghai International Hospitality Equipment & Supply Expo 2017

www.hotelex.cn｜www.jdgle.com

Only takes 30 seconds to register online to get free admission now!

Follow us: 76

Organizer: UBM Sinoexpo Limited

Hotelex

HotelexShanghai

Tel: 86 21 3339 2242 Mr.Alex Ni

Hotelex

HOTELEX Shanghai

E-mail: Alex.Ni@ubmsinoexpo.com

Event

James Hoffmann

Q&A

How to make your customers stick to your coffee shop.

Hoffmann shared with audience his ideas on relationship between a person and coffee, then in a very lively atmosphere everyone discussed how to manage a café and how to make people come back or “stick” to your place.

Profile

James Hoffmann is the author of “The World Atlas of Coffee”, fonder of British Square Mile Coffee Roasters brand, winner of World Barista Championship, co-creator of Nuova Simonelli Black Eagle VA388 coffee machine.

COFFEE TALK AT SHANGHAI HIANG KIE COFFEE COLLEGE (HKCG) November 2016, the author of “The World Atlas of Coffee “, James Hoffmann, landed in Shanghai, which made us to follow every step of his trip like real fans. During his short stay, Hoffmann took part in several talks dedicated to speciality coffee, and after talking to all industry people and coffee lovers there is still one question: in this new Shanghainese speciality coffee culture, did he find a coffee shop that he liked and a cup of coffeeto remember? After strict examination not limited by roasting and production process, he faced even more questions that needed careful consideration and his thoughts and ideas should be further developed.

November 2nd, James Hoffmann in Shanghai office of HKCG together with one of the translators of Chinese version of “The World Atlas of Coffee”, Charles huang, had a public talk on how to make coffee shops’ customers stick to the place and what speciality coffee market is.

78

How to make a bigger profit and, at the same time, attract more and more customers to small independent coffee houses?

Industry people and customers do not seem to follow the same way of thinking, we provided a big variety of coffee, but the guests do not buy it that much.

Hoffmann: I have two s u g g e s t i o n s . F i r s t l y, make the environment more comfortable, so that your guests will experience only the best service, this way they will spread the word and make more people come.

Secondly, you need to have a rich menu, with a big variety of food and drinks, not just coffee.

H o f f m a n n : We c a n no t force people to think the same way as we do, and do not try to change their needs. But what we can do is to make them enjoy and a have pleasant experience in our café, and due to the warm and greeting atmosphere make them trust you and people you work with, baristas. Based on this trust, customers are more likely to accept things they do not know or understand and may become more open to the changes. For chain coffee shops, it is more important to show the customer clear brand identity, which includes special services, unique interior design, strong brand image etc.

At the same time, it is crucial to have business and

James Hoffmann has already spoken on this topic in a speciality coffee blog, he believes that people that work with high quality coffee are always huge coffee lovers, and they hope consumers will appreciate all their efforts to make coffee better. But the reality is so that even if you have the best quality coffee, it still does not mean that you have the strongest voice in the industry. At the end of the day, we all should recognize that it is a service industry,

development plan.

and the basic of the industry is

Famous chain cafés focus on improving their coffee’s quality, does it mean that independent coffee shops market is going to shrink?

Hoffmann: It is very hard to compare those two, because it is almost impossible for an independent coffee shop to compete or keep up with a chain one.

On the other hand, clients

to bring the best experience and service to the costumers.

groups are different, but, of course, improving coffee quality is very profitable for the chain shops, as the gap between them and independent cafés will be smaller and smaller.

How do independent coffee houses set prices?

Hoffmann: It is a bad idea for small coffee shops to do big chain’s pricing strategy, because their markets are different, independent cafés cannot imply low-priced and fast-sell model, because there is always going to be someone who can sell it cheaper.

79

Could you compare coffee market in Shanghai, and in London?

H o f f m a n n : Right now the situation in Shanghai speciality coffee market is relatively close to London’s in 2010, the only difference is that coffee consumers here are very young.

Event

Speciality coffee market.

After a short break everyone started discussing a second topic, speciality coffee market. The talk started with the close look at London’s coffee market, where Hoffmann’s head office is. According to Hoffmann, London can be seen as a benchmark for high quality coffee market, like a canary in a coalmine.

James Hoffmann thinks that now in London only “1000 fans” theory will help coffee shops, it means that every newly opened coffee house needs 1000 real fans to continue its existence. However, London coffee shops’ growth has far exceeded the existing number of customers groups, and this situation created a severe competition. Just like in London, inspired by those pioneers’ success, many high quality coffee houses have rapidly appeared in many cities around the world. Unfortunately, many people started doing coffee business blindly, which led them to become bankrupts and which confused the whole industry. Apparently, for Hoffmann coffee fu-

ture does not seem to be bright and optimistic, in his opinion, speciality coffee market is oversupplied with limited consumers’ capacity and at the same time, the production of the high quality coffee is also reduced. It seems like both, buyers and sellers, lack resources and it worries everyone.

Hoffmann believes that in recent years coffee industry has been facing some serious difficulties: not only rent prices rised and competition got harder, but also some plant diseases have created some real problems. Let’s take El Salvador as an example: in 2000 annual coffee production in El Salvador was 2 million bags, and the reason that took away 75% of the harvest is a rampant leaf rust.

In addition, due to the lower profit some farmers started abandoning their coffee in favor of more profitable kind of plants, creating a vicious circle.

Someone in the audience also asked if James Hoffmann could continue writing his “The World Atlas of Coffee” and release a new book. The author gave negative answer, but at the same time prom-

In conclusion, James Hoffmann gave

MALAYSIA COFFEE FEST 2017

us a really useful advise: coffee industry

May 5 - 7, 2017 Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Malaysia www.mycoffeefest.com

will grow and develop only when we will have clear and realistic views of it, but for now we have a lot of difficulties. Saying all of it with a warm and sunny smile on his face, Hoffmann still inspired us with his love for coffee.

HOFEX

JANUARY

May 8-11,2017,Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre,Hong Kong http://hofex.com/

CAFE MALAYSIA January 12 - 14, 2017 MATRADE Exhibition & Convention Centre (MECC), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.cafe-malaysia.com

THAIFEX-WORLD OF FOOD ASIA/WORLD OF COFFEE & TEA May 31 – June 4 , 2017 Bangkok, Thailand www.worldoffoodasia.com www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com

SIGEP 2017 January 21 - 25, 2017 Rimini Fiera,Italy en.sigep.it

JUNE

MARCH

SCAE WORLD OF COFFEE EVENTS June 13-15,2017 hungexpo, Budapest http://www.worldofcoffee-budapest.com

CAFE ASIA March 2 - 4, 2017 Marina Bay Sands, Singapore www.cafeasia.com.sg

JULY

CAFE SHOW VIETNAM March 2-4,2017,Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center - SECC Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.thailandcoffee.net

ised readers to develop and improve maps in the book. And we are looking forward to see China’s Yunnan region in “The World Atlas of Coffee” maps.

CAFE SHOW CHINA July 6-9,2017 ,China International Exhibition Center, Beijing, China www.cafeshow.com.cn

THAILAND COFFEE,TEA & DRINK 2017 March 16-19, 2017 Hall 1-3, IMPACT Muang Thong, Bangkok, Thailand www.thailandcoffee.net

TRAFS 2017 August 13-16, 2017 Bitec Bangna, Bangkok, Thailand www.thailandhoreca.com

HOTELEX 2017 March 28 - 31, 2017 Shanghai New Int’l Expo Center, China www.hotelex.cn

AUGUST

APRIL

MIFB August 9-11,2017,Putra World Trade Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia http://mifb.com.my

FOOD&HOTEL INDONESIA April 5-8, 2017, Jakarta International Expo, Indonesia www.foodnhotelasia.com

HK Tea Fair 2017

GLOBAL SPECIALTY COFFEE EXPO (SCAA)

August 11-13, 2017,Hong Kong Convention ,Hong Kong www.hktdc.com

April 20-23, 2017 Washington State Convention Center, Seattle, USA www.coffeeexpo.org

Facebook: Coffee Tea&I Magazine Instagram: coffeeteaimag Web: www.coffeetandi.com Wechat: cti_magazine issuu: Coffee tea&i

FOOD&HOTEL VIETNAM

SEPTEMBER

April 25-27, 2017,Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC),Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.foodnhotelvietnam.com

Food and Hotel Thailand 2017 September 6-9, 2017 Bitec, Bangkok www.foodhotelthailand.com

MAY

CAFÉ CAMBODIA

HOSFAIR GUANGZHOU

May 4-6,2017 Koh Pich (Diamond Island) Convention and Exhibition Center, Phnom Penh, Cambodia www.cafe-cambodia.com

September 13-15,2017 hungexpo, Budapest http://www.hosfair.com

81

CTI Class Story/ Matthew Perger

Medium Scale Roasters

MAT

T

TO BLEND OR Not TO BLEND For a very long time “coffee” was a blend by default. Some businesses have their own namesake as a blend, many larger businesses have consistent year-round blends, and more recently, specialty businesses have been favouring the seasonal blend.

Blends are shrouded in mystery by many roasters. It’s dark art, practised by legendary roast masters who claim it cannot be taught. They keep the percentages a secret, and some don’t even write the recipe down lest it be copied! I find this pretty ridiculous and frankly, masturbatory.

Many roasters can’t roast coffee with perfect consistency week to week.

This makes the thought of copying a blend well enough to be a commercial threat rather farfetched.

There’s a few reasons why a coffee company will make a blend.

Usually, it’s correlated to the size of the business; the economies of scale it affords and the consistency at volume it demands. I do acknowledge that some companies sit between or across some of the categories below.

Just take this as a general guide to the economies of their main blend rather than the business as a whole.

Large Scale Roasters Probably not focused on serving high grade specialty customers: Illy, Starbucks.

Large scale roasters need a consistent product in gargantuan volumes. To keep some semblance of consistency, they buy a constant stream of many coffee and blend them together to mitigate change. Seasonality is less of a concern because there are enough coffee and flexibility in the blend to buffer any seasonal changes in flavour. The downside of this method is the lack of transparency and character displayed by the blend components. To be honest, in a blend of 8 components, it really doesn’t matter how floral that Yirgacheffe is.

That said, it’s truly incredible just how consistent some of these blends are. The logistical and commercial demands placed upon the professionals developing them are mind boggling, and my hat goes off to them.

82

Serving mostly specialty focused customers: Intelligentsia, Blue Bottle, Sensory Lab. Medium scale roasters will generally create blends that are as consistent as possible without sacrificing the “voice” of the components or seasonality. This means they might choose 2-4 countries for a blend and stick to them throughout the year. If they’re smart, those countries will have two crops per year, or a widely dispersed crop time. This means the blend can contain fresh coffee all year round without changing flavour too drastically. It also provides them with some wiggle room to adjust the blend ratios without losing transparency of flavour. For example, at Sensory Lab and St Ali, we have a blend called Steadfast that is always Brazilian and Colombian. We utilise the main and fly crops of Colombia and the varied harvest times of Brazil to keep it incredibly consistent.

Small Scale Roasters Almost definitely serving specialty customers: Heart Coffee, Square Mile, Market Lane Coffee.

Small scale roasters will, nearly by default, create blends that are quite variable and seasonal. A great number of Specialty roasters name their mainstay blend the “Seasonal Blend” and others will have an offering that includes a consistent blend, as above, alongside a seasonal blend that’s more variable. This rapidly changing blend happens for a few reasons depending on the business.

Some will explain that coffee is inherently seasonal and that they want to celebrate that by offering a constantly changing blend according to what’s the freshest. This is the best-case scenario. Others are just bowing to the pressure of small-volume coffee buying.

Without many economies of scale or a strong cash flow, it’s in one’s favour to buy a lot of smaller lots more regularly (not to mention that the highest quality coffee almost always comes in small lots anyway). Buying a container of Brazil would sink many a small roaster, so the oft-changing blend is sometimes preferred.

A constantly changing seasonal blend is great, but makes for an inconsistent product.

Some might think of the constantly changing Seasonal Blend as a carefully crafted experi-

The Real Dark Art of Blending

ence – and it can be – but for a lot of roasters it’s a commercial necessity rather than a luxury. It’s often the case that a roaster’s blend will include the waste or “buffer” inventory of the business. As the most popular product the blend can be a great way to sell coffee that are getting long in the tooth or under-performing on their own. Although it may not always hurt the quality of the Blend (it might be a great coffee that just isn’t selling well!) it does damage the integrity and original intent of the business to sell one.

So that’s why roasters blend from a rather commercial standpoint. But why do some roasters choose blending while others stay entirely away?

I can see why a lot of roasters and baristas don’t like blends. Quite often they’re a disappointing representation of the coffees within. You take a chocolaty Brazilian and a juicy Kenyan, put them together and you get a powdery, dry, sour blend. But why? Shouldn’t you get fruity chocolate?! No. Not unless you understand solubility and how it plays a part in blending. If you have ever tasted the components of a blend separately, and then together as a blend, you may have noticed that the blend tastes nothing like the best of its components. In fact, it tastes like the worst of them. This is because the coffees have differing solubilities. Please, allow me to explain.Back in my post on Talking about Roasts I mentioned that a developed roast makes a coffee more soluble. In other words, it allows water to permeate its structure and dissolve its flavour. Unfortunately, solubility isn’t a yes/no situation. There are many shades of solubility, and every coffee is a little different.

Think of an aeropress with 6g of a very soluble coffee (A) and 6g of another coffee that’s less soluble (B). From the moment you add water, those two coffees will extract at different rates. Let’s stop the brew at different points and check in to see what those coffees will taste like.

• 2:00 (A)will be powering towards a full extraction, beginning to produce some nice sweetness and roundness. (B) will be struggling to keep up, and is still very under-extracted. To combat that sourness you let the brew go on.

• 3:00 (A) is starting to taste a bit over extracted. B is only beginning to taste good, and needs more time.

Pro Blending Blending is often touted as a way to make a product greater than the sum of its parts. From this standpoint, blending allows coffee to hide their faults and show their strengths. I believe this is often just wishful thinking. If you blend one thin, acidic coffee, and one rich and sweet coffee, you don’t magically get a juicy rounded cup. You get a coffee that’s a bit acidic, a bit sweet and has a mouthfeel somewhere between thin and rich. Blending doesn’t just hide the negatives and bring out the positives, it puts everything together and dilutes those qualities according to the ratio.

Some go so far as to say that single origin/estate/ microlot coffee will never taste good on its own and must be blended to taste great (with the aggressive improvements towards coffee quality in recent years this opinion is certainly less popular). I definitely don’t agree with this, but I will happily admit that blends can – occasionally – taste significantly better than their components. This is rare, and involves a great deal of skill, but it’s far from impossible.

Anti Blending Others have gone as far as to stop blending altogether; notably Tim Wendelboe in Oslo and The Barn in Berlin. I believe the prevailing argument here is that the coffees being bought are incredibly complex, unique and special, so blending them would only serve to diminish their qualities. I think this is a noble and just cause – their coffees are indeed special – but I’m not convinced that this is the best course of action for the industry at large.I don’t believe the majority of coffee-drinking customers are quite ready to appreciate and understand why roasters have suddenly dropped blends from their offering. Blends still hold a special place in customer’s hearts; they’re the flag-bearer for the business; the gateway to the rest of your offering. Don’t get me wrong: I’m definitely a strong advocate for exposing customers to unique and special coffees.

I’m just wary of how we go about that as an industry.

83

www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com

CTI Class

• 3:00 (A) is well over-extracted and, finally, (B)is tasting great! … Damn.

At no point during that brew did both of the coffees taste at their best. No matter how skilled you are as a barista, the brews you make of this blend will always be a compromise. There is, quite literally, nothing you can do to fix that. The best you can do is to stop the brew around 2:30-3:00 where neither coffee is aggressively under- or over-extracted.

[Some call this mix of roast flavour “melange” and strive for it as a desirable characteristic. Just like over and under-extraction being boring, generic and definitively ‘non-specialty’ flavours, this mix of roast flavour has less to do with the coffees used and more to do with the varying levels of extraction created because of it.]

I’m about to throw out a very personal opinion that many won’t agree with.If a roaster isn’t fastidiously matching the solubility of every component in a blend it will never taste great. There’s nothing anyone can do to fix it. Once blended, varying solubilities of coffee will always be extracted differently and will taste muddled or incoherent. I really, really dislike blends with varying levels of solubility and extraction. I will not waver on this one. It’s game over for me.When adjusting the ratio of

BREW

None of the components are hidden or diminished by the presence of the others, they just all exist peacefully side by side. It’s magical.

So if you’ve been sitting in the antiblending camp, maybe give it another go. Talk to your roaster and understand a little more about the solubility of the components in a blend. Maybe ask for some of your blend components to taste individually, and play around with different ratios.

After all that talk about magical blends I can’t leave you hanging. Here are three examples of blends (geographically dispersed to avoid postal pains) that I know are definitely solubility matched. Maybe order some and give blending another chance. See if you can taste the individual components all at once, rather than a boring old melange!

THE BEST

IN ASIA C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

31 MAY - 04 JUNE

coffees in a blend with varying solubilities, you’re not adjusting the intensity of each coffee’s flavour. You’re actually adjusting how disparate their extractions will be. A sobering thought.

I know of a few companies that measure and match the solubility of their blend components. It’s also really difficult to manipulate roasts according to that kind of information. I have a very strong suspicion that this is the root cause of why many specialty coffee professionals don’t like blends. It’s not the blending itself, it’s the result of blending coffees with differing solubilities.When performing quality control on blends for Sensory Lab, I’ve been blown away by just how much better things are when the solubilities are matched. It’s night and day. When mismatched, the blend will taste jumbled and confused; it’ll be a big mix of under-, idealand over-extraction. When matched, every coffee can be easily identified.

84

2017

About Barista Hustle Barista Hustle is an online blog, community for baristas found-

Challenger 1

ed by Matt Perger, World Brewers Cup Champion 2012. It is well known amongst Baristas worldwide as a source of advanced information and equipment for coffee making, and

4th International Trade Exhibition for the Coffee and Tea Industry in Asia

for the ultra premium coffee bean subscription.

Koelnmesse Pte Ltd Ms. Jennifer Chiah Tel: +65 6500 6738 Fax: +65 6294 8403 j.chiah@koelnmesse.com.sg

IMPACT Exhibition & Convention Center Bangkok, Thailand

Powered by

Jointly organized by

THAIFEX-World of Food Asia

The Thai Chamber of Commerce

Origin Journey

Ethiopia

story/Melanie Leeson

COFFEE THAT

IS WORTH WAITING FOR

The prevailing expectation is that since harvest begins in October and ends from December-January, coffee buyers cup/select in February, and then containers ship in March. This schedule is based on buyers’ experience of the former auction system and does not reflect the way the current auction system operates.

In the old system, parchment coffee was sent to a centralized warehouse and then purchased in Addis Ababa. This meant that a coffee purchased in the morning could be delivered to the buyer’s facility within the same day. When the new ECX system was implemented, the decision was made to place warehouses in seven locations across the country that make up the geographic regions that coffees are now sold as (e.g. Yirgacheffe, Sidama, Limmu, etc.). So now when a lot is purchased, it has to travel from the countryside to Addis after the regulated inspections are made and paperwork is in order. This process takes, on average, 10 days.

By the time the coffee arrives in Addis, it has not yet been evaluated by the buyer. In fact, one can only make a quality claim while the coffee is still at its original warehouse. And in reality, the current ECX structure makes it close to impossible to make quality claims because:

Farmers

Exporters

Foreign Buyers

have a staff member be there to do the inspec-

3. you have to pay your driver’s expens-

es while any claim is made and the resulting appeal is followed up. And of course, the coffee isn’t going anywhere and can’t be offered to any customers while this process is unfolding.

Ethiopian coffee is arguably the most coveted within specialty coffee. It is also one of the most complex origins to work with due to its many distinct regions, languages, cultures, which all affect business relations. The Ethiopian Commodities Exchange (ECX), where the majority of coffee is purchased from is in its very nature lacking in transparency and consists of many actors and locations that each handle coffee from the time coffee cherries are purchased and processed at washing stations, through to loaded into a container, ready for export.

It then makes sense that the export process itself is time consuming and consists of many layers. It is therefore the purpose of this article to clarify the processes involved in preparing and exporting Ethiopian coffee.

86

Washing/Hulling

Ethiopian Commodity Exchange

Consumers

L et’s assume a lot h as b een p u rchas ed on February 1 (e.g. Kochere gr. 1) and it proceeds to Addis without incident:

1. you have to pay a non-refundable fee of $150 to have your coffee inspected 2. you have to tion

Initial Trading Market

87

Origin Journey

2/1: Kochere gr. 1 is purchased (it’s a full container lot, 320 x 60kg bags) completed

2/8: Inspections and paperwork are 2/10: Kochere arrives at warehouse in Addis

2/11: Kochere is first cupped and evaluated by the buyer 2/12: sample is sent out to a potential client sample arrives at client’s lab for evaluation

2/17:

2/20: sample is cupped and let’s assume,

a pproved

2/21: Kochere goes into the queue for

mechanical and hand sorting at the exporter’s facility 3/1: earliest possible

departure date from the exporter to Coffee Liquoring Unity (CLU) for final inspection before export to Djibouti

3/10: container arrives to Djibouti port

3/15: container departs from port at arrival port warehouse

3/4: container

3/5: departure from Addis

is approved for export by CLU

4/15: container arrives

4/22: container is stripped at arrival 4/24: earliest possible loading to the roaster

The above timeline is based on the following assumptions: 1. Absolutely every step occurs without incident 2. Only one lot is in the container.

In reality, many importers purchase containers that are made up of at least two different lots (it can go up to ±5). Each of these lots have to go through the above process and then be approved by the client for purchase. Getting five lots coming from different warehouses with the exact cup characteristics that the client likes and then getting those lots and hand sorted for export makes March

export nearly impossible. All of the above also assumes that the export facility is functioning at top efficiency and capacity.

As you can see, all the beautiful Ethiopian coffees being offered at cafes around the world have travelled a long way not only geographically, but also having passed through many hands, offices, and facilities before even being loaded onto a ship. The next time you are wondering why your coffee is taking so long to arrive at your roastery, remember that your exporter and their team is working with many factors and people in order to ship the coffee to you as quickly as possible.

88

M

Y

CM

2/18: sample

is roasted

2/28: Kochere is ready for export

C

MY

CY

CMY

K

Brand a coffee roastery that produces over 1000 tons of roasted coffee annually. Aside from being certified as an Authorized SCAE Trainer, he also has SCAA Roaster certification. James served as Rocky’s assistant in 2016 when Rocky taught SCAE Roasting Professional at JASBLEU Coffee Academy, and he is also the leading assistant of the Q Grader courses.

Rocky Roaster in 1996 and focused on both wholesale and retail specialty coffee.He joined the Roasters Guild and was voted on to the Executive Council (BOD). During 5 years in that role, Rocky ran the Coffees of the Year competition and assisted in the development of the Roaster Certification program.Rocky invested many hours of teaching and assisting in the development of the Q-Grader certification materials. He became one of the first five certified instructors of this system. Rocky is also one of the first R-Grader (Robusta coffee) Instructors.Rocky Roaster joined the Woodland Hills – Tarzana Chamber of Commerce later and was elected to the Board of Directors.After selling Rocky Roaster in 2009, Rocky founded International Coffee Consulting. The primary focus of the company is training classes in Q-Grader certification, R-Grader Certification, SCAA certified classes and custom trainings for employees.ICC has clients in several countries.

The JASBLEU Coffee Academy Q Grader course students who had Rocky as instructor in 2016 will agree that Rocky is a very strict and disciplined teacher, but he always shares this tip to pass Q Grader exams – to relax. He helps students to be as relaxed as possible in face of the exams, while executing the class and exams with clear and strict instructions.

Internationally Certi ed:

JASBLEU COFFEE ACADEMY Rocky Rhodes Continues Q-grader Courses for 2017

SCAE & SCAA Certified Coffee Academy

ity through a scientific way and discuss coffee in a common language, hence this is a key linkin the coffee industry.

The Q-Grader Course at the JASBLEU Coffee Academy is a nine-day training course including the Pre-Q Grader course. Through solid knowledge and intensive training, this helps students to successfully exceed in their Q-Grader Certification exams.

Our Q-Grader course is fully bilingual and is interpreted by a certified AST and Q-grader.Mr. Rocky Rhodes has agreed to continue teaching Q-Grader courses at JASBLEU Coffee Academy for 2017.

For over a decade, JASCAFFE has based its focus on specialty coffee education and training, and in April 2013, JASBLEU Coffee Academy was established in Shanghai.

JASBLEU Coffee Academy has been unanimously approved as a corporate member by both SCAA (Specialty Coffee Association of America) and SCAE (Specialty Coffee Association of Europe), and has many SCAE AST (Authorized SCAE Trainer) and CQI certified Q-Graders (Coffee Quality Appraiser). The Coffee Academy has then taught courses such as SCAE Brewing, Roasting, Barista course and CQI-certified Q-grader courses.

The Academy is also equipped with top-notchhardware from around the world, such as Diedrich Roaster, customized Slayer, Conti Espresso Machine, Ditting Grinders, Curtis Drip Brewer…etc. Lastly, the Academy is equipped with a SCAA certified coffee cuppingroom that can accommodate 24 students simultaneously.

TEACHERS

Q-Grader Course

•Experienced Team of Assistants JASBLEU Coffee Academy always ensures the students who come for coffee courses are well supported and assisted. The number of assistants is determined by the class size each time to ensure all equipment and coffee preparations are well done and the students are always well assisted.

Extra Student Service Throughout the intense professional coffee training courses, JASBLEU Academy not only provides breakfast and lunch, but also has a wide selection of snacks to help to fuel students’ brains. Snacks include but not limited to and assortment of bread,imported cheese and ham, waffle, pizza, salad and fruits. Student shuttle service is also provided daily.

JASBLEU Coffee Academy now owns training facility of hundreds of square meters. The academy invested millions of Chinese Yuan to establish highly professional and wellequipped training facility and R&D lab. We strive to provide all if not more than what specialty coffee courses require of campus facility. Aside from the Shanghai Headquarters, JASBLEU Coffee Academy now also has campuses at Chengdu, Shenzhen, Nanning, Xinjiang, and Shenyang, providing more selection and convenience to coffee lovers all over the world to acquire professional training and knowledge of specialty coffee.

•The Trainers of World Brewers Cup Third Place Winner Chad Wang Amongst the instructors of JASBLEU Coffee Academy are two low-key but highly professional instructors – they are the assistants and trainers of 2016 World Brewers Cup Third Place Winner, Chad Wang. They helped Chad through every practice – roasting coffee, recording data and suggesting modifications in brew method and performance. Ms. Ling Chang, is the SCAE Brewing Instructor. If you would like to learn the extraction methods behindWBrC Third-Place Winner’s recipe, then do not miss her class! The other trainer, Ms. Qing Yu, is adept at roasting Ninety Plus Coffee. She is JASBLEU Coffee Academy’s leading assistant in SCAE Roasting; she also assists in Q Grader courses.

•Roasting Instructor with a M.S. Food Science and Engineering Degree Our SCAE Roasting instructor, Mr. James Cheng is a Master of Science in Food Science and Engineering. Needless to say, he has had many years of coffee roasting experience, and is in charge of quality control over

For more details: houyuhan@jascaffechina.com FB: jascaffechina Wechat: wcyuhanh

•Q-Grader Instructor and Master - Rocky Rhodes Mr. Rocky Rhodes is one of the first Q-Graders in the world, and he was the instructor of many active Q Grader instructors, so we respectfully call him Master.

Rocky has been active in the specialty coffee movement for over 18 years. He founded a coffee roasting company,

The Q-Grader Certificate is a coffee certification for professionally accredited cuppers accredited by CQI. Through training and examinations, certified Q-Graders has the ability to consistently and accurately assess coffee qual-

90

91

Brand

BREW YOUR OWN CUP!

WPM KD-310VP Variable Pressure Coffee Machine

In order to meet the growing coffee lovers’ market, WPM developed a new coffee machine KD-310VP for the purpose of creating more inspiration to the world of espresso!

WPM started the business in Hong Kong for producing OEM and ODM products of numerous would-famous brands in USA, European countries, Australia, and Japan from 1975.

Although Our manufacturing plant (40,000m2 ) was moved to Guangdong China, the headquarters & R&D department still remain based in Hong Kong until now.

We applied our rich experience in manufacturing overseas home appliances and dedicated our efforts to design, manufacture, and sell our own Welhome brand products in China. Our distribution channels were widely developed in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Chongqing and Guangdong with after sales service support.

machines include coffee machines, coffee grinders, tea machines, milk steamers and coffee related accessories.

World’s First Triple Thermoblock coffee machine With the third wave of specialty coffee boom, the requirements for coffee lovers are increasing . The market demand for high-performance coffee machine has been lifted as well. In the meantime, the new WPM flagship coffee machine “KD-310” was born.

KD-310 is the first triple thermoblock coffee machine in the world. Two of the thermoblocks are dedicated to ensure optimum temperature stability. Heating just the amount of water required for extraction ensures a fresh espresso shot every time. The third thermoblock provides simultaneous, stable and powerful steam per- formance for professional silky milk texturing.

KD-310 is the perfect fusion of high performance and magnificent design. The espresso machine is smart looking inspired by the iconic Italian group head, taking the professional espresso experience from the café and transporting it into your home.

In addition to perfect coffee extraction, steam output is also a major concern of the user. Steamed milk needs to be at optimum temperature to sweeten the taste and create a silky texture. KD-310 has a super-steam heat- ing thermoblock

Start of coffee business with new WPM brand Our first coffee machine KD-210 was launched in 2005, the 1st twin thermo-block coffee machine in the world. For expansion and penetration into pro- fessional channels of beverages, new WPM brand was established. It stands for “Welhome Professional Machine”. After that, WPM launched more varieties of beverage-related machines for bars, restaurants, coffee schools, baristas and coffee lovers. Those

92

penetrate into the individual coffee particles before commencement of extraction, therefore requiring less pressure to extract the soluble elements of the coffee.

Regardless of the extraction of espresso, experimentation is the key to get the best coffee.

“The best coffee is the coffee you like.”

WPM machines are hand built under the best quality of manufacturing. Our innovative design and technolo- gies enhance home coffee brewing like a professional. WPM machines are also perfect professional tools for baristas in every corner of the world. Brewing a decent cup of coffee with science is full of fun and we love to share.

WPM currently has over 50 experience centers (WPM Coffee Lab) and almost 100 dealers in mainland, Hong Kong and Macau. We also export our products to Asian market, such as Korea, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam, etc. Number of countries are increasing. WPM cares about coffee culture promotion. We held many coffee-related joint activities with other coffee schools, shops and associations to gather coffee lovers and to articulate baristas’ skills in coffee industry. We want to share our coffee science with coffee industry, with baristas, with coffee lovers and most importantly with you.

that high-temperature heating can provide continuous and relative dry steam output.

The first VP-Variable Pressure In order to get a perfect cup of coffee, the pressure of the espresso extraction plays a very important role.

That pressure can be varied during extraction gener- ally exists in the most high-end commercial coffee ma- chine.

Different pressure curves can produce different flavor in the extraction process. By changing brewing pressure during extraction, user can achieve the vari- ance of the balance and taste of coffee even with the same kind of coffee beans.

In order to bring this brewing technology into prac- tice, WPM introduced KD-310VP, which allows home baristas to control pressure throughout the extraction process directly.

KD-310VP is the latest WPM espresso machine with the capability to vary pressure. You can afford to brew your coffee with a superb machine at reasonable price and control brewing pressure by us- ing our proudly introduced pressure control buttons. You are able to bring out different flavor components to effect the balance and body of the shot, and tends to produce a rounder, softer espresso that highlights brightness, sweetness, and delicate notes.

You can control brewing pressure by simply pressing the two red ring buttons. This opens up infinite possi- bilities for varying the quality of extraction and is the most exciting advancement in home espresso machines today which can extract the sweetness out from the coffee easily.

KD-310VP also have 4 types of pre-infusion settings .

Lower pressure extraction at the beginning can help barista to have good pre-infusion. It enables water to

For More information about WPM please visit our website: www.wpm.hk

93

Tea Photos/Samovar Tea Lounge story/Lluviaz

a e T r a v o m a S nge lou

AN ALTERNATIVE VIEW OF TEA 6 years ago, when I was doing my third year in university, o u r profe s s or sh a red w i t h u s a v i d e o o f S a m ov a r Te a L o u n g e i n c l a s s . Je s s e J a c o b , f o u n d e r of Samovar, introduced the category of tea leaves and told his s t o r y f a l l i n g i n l ove w i t h t e a .

Impressive images with delightful background music did hit me.

In June 2015, I boarded on my trip to San Francisco, where Samovar presents an alternative view of tea drinks.

ABOUT

SAMOVAR TEA LOUNGE Samovar Tea Lounge is a well-known tea lounge and restaurant in San Francisco with 3 outlets: THE CASTRO, YERBA BUENA GARDENS and THE MISSION. Jesse, the founder, revealed that tea has made him a different person in both, life and career, stepping out the rat race.

“Samovar” origins from a traditional Russian 3-level heated metal container, which ensembles pipe, filled with solid fuel to heat the water in the middle and maintain temperature of the teapot placed on top. The strong brewed tea served with jam makes the Russian winter warm.

The 3 outlets are carrying different characters like the levels in a samovar.

THE CASTRO-Zenism day to day zen fashion My first stop is Jesse’s first shop. Located in a corner of Castro Street, it delivers cozy, warm and oriental ambiance.

Japanese Service: steamed

organic

b row n r i c e , s e awe e d salad, sauerkraut, seasonal veggies (dumplings), alternate wtih smoked s almon and s moked d u ck . P a i red with Ryokucha.

94

95

Tea

You can find both single origin tea and food & tea pairings in its menu, Chinese cuisine paired with Blood Orange Pu-erh, English service with breakfast tea, Japanese, Ryokucha and Masala chai along with Indian flavors.

Tea-holics, like me, will explore many different pairings that can be rated as high culinary. I am fascinated with Blood Orange Pu-erh. Tea’s aged scent blended with orange peels and spices brought an unforgettable sensations. The bookshelf at the corner is also eye-catching: many in-depth research tea books! From tea culture in San Francisco to translated works about Pu-erh, you can be what you read. And I am so into it.

THE MISSION minimalism and stylish

YERBA BUENA GARDENS Ideal spot for private events S a m ov a r ’ s s e c o n d o u t l e t i n i t s 2nd year is more like a different exp e r i m e n t t h a n a s i m p l e c o py. Wi t h its beautiful garden terrace, it is big enough to accommodate small to middle scale events. It serves draft beers, w i n e s a n d c o c k t a i l s a p a r t f ro m t h e same tea menu as Castro.

T h e E a r l G rey w i t h n i c e s m ok y scent pairs perfectly with the Russian cuisine. What a delightful surprise!

THE MISSION is contemporary. Its style and details ultimately reflect Jesse’s understanding of tea drinks. Decent space without overloading decoration, it is such a magnificent combination of orient wisdom and modern living. The bespoke teacups from Oakland’s artist show you same simplicity.

Are you ready for the New wave?

Herbal tea and masala chai make it special. Imagine taking latte at 7am on the way to work, to-go with artisan toast with jam. You will feel how positive energy has filled your whole day.

Alpha Dominche Steampunk is eye-catching. A highte c h d ev i c e ke e p s yo u r b rew i n g v i s i b l e . T h e v a r i o u s herbal teas tasted good, which actually brings out the soul of the shop. There is nothing else, except for interior design and tea sets.

Also Jesse organizes talks for different industries professionals to share their experience: hobbies, dreams a nd wh at t hey fo c u s o n i n l i fe a nd c a ree r. Ye s , fo c u s points are as important as passions.

96

Samovar Tea’s 3 different outlets i n te r p re t 3 d i f fe re n t w ays o f te a i n young customer’s lives. However, their Hayes Valley outlet, which was styled for proffesional tasters, has shut down.

It may be a hint of the limitation of traditional tea tastings to young customers.

Will it be too far away from our lives if tea is remained on the sanctuary? The answer is yes, to them.

In San Francisco, there are many different types of tearooms, due to its cultural mix. The traditional ones are oriental and relatively costive, which is not, to most people, a delicious drink.

These years, Samovar’s “youth focused” model gave us a great hope. Many coffee lovers, who never considered tea before, are willing to try it there. Originally from U.S., Samovar didn’t simply imitate any successful case of cafes or

polish itself with such an outfit. The founder’s experience and knowledge from different tea countries has made the “Tea services” in menu more than just a trick. They are thoughtfully created and delivered, with the touch of their origin.

High quality flavors, coupled w i t h s u f f i c i e nt s i nce r i t y, a s fo r me , all of these indicate a start of emerg ing new wave of contemporary tea.

In China, domestic tea compan ie s we re we a ke ned by S t a r b uck s ’ a c q u i s i t i o n o f Te av a n a , t h e b i g ge s t tea retailer in the U.S. in 2013. In l e s s t h a n 2 ye a r s , Te av a n a h a s e x panded from 1 store in New York to more than 400 outlets in the U.S., Mexico, Canada, D ubai, etc. Numb e r s a re g row i n g , a n d a re a s a re ex panding. Teavana got ready to enter C h i ne s e m a rke t i n 2 0 1 6 . Wi l l t he s e youngsters become loyal custome r s o f Te a v a n a , e n c o r i n g t h e s u c c e s s o f S t a r b u c k s ? T h e y h ave b e e n w a i t i n g to o lo n g a n d b e c a m e b o re d by “ le a r n c u l t u re b e fo re yo u d r i n k ” s t r ate g y f rom t r ad i t ion a l te a ho u s e s .

Tea lovers might have mixed feelings, however, it may be the best time for those in pursuit of a good cup of tea.

97

Tea Story/ Evaa

MODERN TEA THAT WOULD SURPRISE EVEN LU YU

lem of adding ice to the drinks. Tea Opal also creates a machine that extracts tea in 55 seconds under the high temperature and the constant pressure. Tea Opal also has an open tea brewing station. The tea maker can talk with the customers about the specialty of each cup. The unique water filter system, adjusting the soft and hardness of water, controls the essence and the taste of the tea. These changes transform the ideas of some teahouse using the tea extract.

Tea Opal slowly becomes the site of pilgrimage of the tea culture.

Recently, the pursuing of tea and aesthetics of its ceremony have reached the peak, a person doesn’t become a tea maker overnight, the second generations enhance their level by participating in tea competitions. They have some new achievements over the courses of learning from the academies and even from their own developments. For example, the fully leavened “small leaves black tea” that helps to increase the marketing value of the “four season spring tea”, developed by the peasant association to drink from extracting the leaves of guava, “black oolong” successfully developed in Huadong to overcome the difficulties, “rose oolong”, etc. These not only double the resources, but also create some extra values to the industries.

From the Classics on Tea, there are nine problems while making a good cup of tea. First is to work on tea leaves, then is the identification of the tea, third is the equipment for making tea, fourth is the fire that makes the tea, fifth is the water, sixth is the method of roasting, seventh is the technique of brewing, last is the concept of drinking. People nowadays not only overcome these nine problems, but also develop different variations of brewing equipment, this should be the idea of the great Lu Yu had never thought of.

From the preparing methods of the Tang dynasty to the extra lid method of the Qing dynasty, these are the wits of our ancestors. Until now, there are still a lot of tea makers, that continue to practice in order to master their tea skills and to take challenges on the aesthetic of the tea party designs. That should be something the great LuYu has never thought of…

ing tea is only suitable for the old people and youngsters never go to the tea house are changing. In recent years, the youngsters brought back the tea drinking culture.The bubble black tea is a special drink that came from Taiwan. In 1983, Mr. Liu, the founder of ChunShuiTang in Taizhong, tried to mix the hot black tea, syrup and ice to make the bubble black tea. It brought the youngsters who never use a tea pot before closer to have a try of nice cup of tea. The selling modes of tea business include mix, take-out and teahouse. Its upgraded version bubble milk tea also became the most popular drink in the U.K. The tea business not only makes its way into fashion and our lives, leads the youngsters into the world of tea successfully, but also it brings the tea industry alive by injecting the new elements.

These franchises leading the new tea cultures include TianRen, its brand “ChiChaQu” creates a unique line of tea drinks, desserts and food. The style of casual and healthy at the same time wins the most welcomes from people of different age.

Recently in Shanghai, Tea Opal is one of the brightest examples of a company, that pushes the level of tea culture to the higher peaks of market. A tea brick that was frozen for 12 hours under the temperature of -18℃, can solve the prob-

The Classics on Tea, Chinese first encyclopedia on tea, was written by Lu Yu of the Tang dynasty. The book is divided into three parts and it is included ten chapters. In the genesis of the first chapter， Lu Yu talked about the tea ceremony-----Drinking tea is good for our bodies, but it is best for humble people. Of course, the way of being humble is putting devotions into actions, having no ambitions, only moral simplicity and also being modest and not luxurious. These sentences state that drinking tea is for everyone. Throughout the tea ceremony, one can reserve his spirit and mind in order to have a calm and peaceful moment. In the modern world, we can still see people hanging Lu Yu’s scripts in their tearooms, thus pursuing the noble state of mind.

A lot of people know the Classics on Tea is a book that cannot be ignored. However, only a few have read it, so how does the tea culture enter our life without any interference? People nowadays don’t read books about tea and appreciation of tea drawings like we used to do. Almost everyone has tried bubble black tea, because of that, it changes the idea of drink-

98

99

Iced tion. Between 2012 and 2014, the market was happy to see a group of high skilled Gelato masters as well as trendies who have gradually learned the concept and features of Gelato

GROWING PAINS GELATO IN CHINA Ice cream is something we can never have enough of, but when you think you know it well, you might have missed one fact that the worldwide popular frozen treat actually originated from China. As early as in the Zhou Dynasty (11th century BC), chunks of ice were preserved below ground in winter for emperors’ summer use. By the end of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), people stumbled across that saltpeter, when mixed in water, would absorb large amount of heat and freeze the water to make a cool and sweet taste.

Since then ice can be made even in summer. Merchants in the Dynasty of Yuan (1279-1368) even mixed it with fruits and milk, making it the grandaddy of modern ice cream.

However, it was not until the 13th century that this technique was introduced to Italy by the Italian traveler Marco Polo. Then the famous Florence chef Bertalan perfected the recipe, and that was the very first Gelato, which through time was improved constantly till what we have today.

Gelato’s price, but as a symbol of the Italian culture and life, Gelato has amazed people around the world with its idea of healthy lifestyle. The past few years have seen a higher popularity of Gelato in China, where you can see massmarket brands such as Iceason, brands, often seen in fairs, such as Gabbri and Carpigiani, or sensational speciality style online stores. Even though many people are still confused about the difference between traditional ice cream and Gelato, with more Gelato brands entering China and more competitions organized to expand its popularity, this Italian specialty is seeing a bright future in China.

The following information is based on an interview with Marketing Chief of Fabbri China, a leading Gelato brand.

Gelato in China Gelato’s path in China has had an astonishing resemblance with the early stage of coffee introduction to the country. People are still in the transitional phase of accepting Gelato. If a chronic has to be made for Gelato’s development in China, it will show four stages as follows: 1999-2004 newborn: the earliest Gelato stores appeared one after another in a few Chinese cities. But did not cause much tweets due to limited hardware equipment, material, skilled staff, and marketing.

2005-2009 infancy: the concept of Gelato was widely recognized in the market, but still at the level of “Gelato equals ice cream”.

2010-2014 childhood: with the joint efforts of Italian raw material manufacturers, equipment suppliers, and investors in various areas, Gelato has attracted obviously higher atten-

Gelato is different from traditional ice cream in the following ways: 1.Gelato is lower in fat (0%-10%) or fat free.

2.Gelato contains less air in the process of making; 3.Gelato is lower in sugar (16%-22%) than other types of ice cream ; 4.Gelato always contains with fresh fruits, providing various vitamins.

Gelato to Italian is what milk tea to Taiwanese; it is part of their life. Time honored Gelato stores are easy to find in Italian streets. Gelato masters can always make unique flavors from their passion and their love. High quality material, artisanal making and short shelf time all increased

and developed fondness of this novelty.

2015-2019 adolescence: more source enterprises and investors have looked to the Chinese market. At the same time, besides ice cream shops, an increasing number of coffee shops, dessert parlors and mass-production ice cream factories have all started to step into the area.

While Gelato has entered the end of its second decade in the Chinese market, it still remains to be modest in popularity, and it’s worth pursuing, here is why: Dietary habit difference Compared with western food, traditional Chinese food would be mostly served hot rather than cold. What’s more, it has not been too long since dairy products began to get popularized in the country as the biggest effort was made only in 1997. It must be difficult for an ice cream with 60% milk to cater to the taste of a market which doesn’t like dairy and cold food.

Ambiguous industry/product standard In China, there is only product standard for mass-produced ice cream, but none for Gelato, and this has caused chaos where Gelato producers and shops have no standard to follow and evil material and equipment suppliers get mixed into good ones. Rough mouth feel happens to the product sometimes, bringing shame to the shop and the entire industry.

Main Forces in the Chinese Market In order to better understand Gelato’s road to China, we have interviewed two Gelato representative brands from Italy, the classic Fabbri and Carpigiani. Their popularity and development in China is a epitome of Gelato’s development in the country.

Fabbri

manufacturer of Gelato, bakery ingredients, coffee syrup and beverage syrup. Its Gelato and pastry material has a 60% market share in Italy and 50% in Europe.

Carpigiani

Carpigiani was found

in 1946. In 1989, Carpigiani became part of Ali Group, one of the biggest companies for catering equipment production and distribution. Today’s Carpigiani is worthy of being the leading manufacturer of

Customers misunderstanding Without proper learning and guidance, Chinese customers tend to take Gelato as an ordinary type of ice cream, which makes it

food equipment for ice cream, desserts etc. In 2007, it set up a manufacturing base in China, serving the Chinese and Asia-Pacific market.

Q&A

extremely slow for Gelato to build its concept in China.

Drawbacks of traditional business model Since freshness is the key to Gelato, most parlors in Western countries are front-shops and workshops and, rarely, chains with uniform distribution. While everyday Gelato freshness is defended to the most extent, by doing this, it comes with the price of lacking support and appeal of a powerful brand. Because of the solo business model, people only have an inkling of Gelato, and there is no brand yet that embodies the standard and culture of Gelato. In this matter, the Gelato industry is changing its philosophy and acting to bring the adolescent Chinese market a gift for stepping into the adulthood. This gift is to build a real and standard Gelato brand shop. It is very likely to be a

THE FOUR INTERVIEWEES

Stella Zhan Fabbri China Chief Gelato and Pastry Technical Consultant and Trainer

Kevin Lv Fabbri Marketing Manager

non-chain single shop but with proper scale.

100

Fabbri was founded in 1905.

It is the most famous and time honored Italian

101

Iced three days) and the major competition in Shanghai at the Shanghai Hotel Supplies Fair in March or April (it will last for four days) . There are different criterions on each stage of the competition, the preliminary asks for Gelato, the intermediary asks for Sorbetto, and in the final contestants are free to create. Audience can see every step of the process through the competition from material selecting to the final product. The competition is a perfect opportunity to show the real process of Gelato making, and people get to taste the works made by contestants. It is believed to strike people in a deeper way and thus a better way to expand Gelato’s appeals gradually.

Cindy Chen Carpigiani Gelato University China Training Master

Welling Zhang Carpigiani China Marketing Manager

What efforts have you made to make people know better Gelato culture?

In participating/sponsoring fairs the last few years, what changes have you noticed in the Chinese Gelato market?

Fabbri: The last few years fairs have struck us that Gelato has gained more attention and practitioners skills have improved remarkably.

Fabbri: in 2002, we started to tap the Chinese market through importers/dealers by giving presentation and teaching people how to use our products and make high quality Gelato. In 2009, we saw clear market potential in China, so we set up a branch in Shanghai and started to introduce and spread professional knowledge about Gelato.

Meanwhile, we have brought from our Italy headquarter the professional Gelato Master Class to China, and it is further modified to meet the Chinese market’s needs. Each class we enroll 10 students. They will learn how to make Gelato with their own hands, experiencing the Gelato culture from the the origin. Each year, Gelato Master Class will train 50100 students. In addition, as a initiator and title sponsor, we are also very proactive in promoting Gelato competitions, constantly transfusing new blood to the industry.

Carpigiani: We are having an increasingly expanded customer group from hotels, international restaurant chains, Gelato exclusive shops and local fast food chains in the past to today’s chains of coffee shops, bakeries, and tea and beverage parlors. When it comes to competitions, contestants used to use paste provided by the organizers and could only make ordinary flavors, but they are more creative in flavors now with home made paste and featured material, which in a way shows improved overall Gelato skills.

C

M

Y

CM

How do you see the prospect of Gelato in China?

Carpigiani: we have set up Gelato University, and, through various courses and by explaining details, we tell people the difference between Gelato and regular ice cream.

In our Italian headquarter, there are Gelato museum and DIY workshops to let people learn more about Gelato. Since 2003, Carpigiani has been working with Sigep ice cream fair sponsor to organize the Gelato World Tour (GWT), promoting Gelato culture around the world. In the summer of 2016, we were invited to prepare for the G20 banquet, providing fresh,

Fabbri: With the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s becoming the mainstream customers, eating habit and market rules are altering. They are more adaptable and willing to accept new things. We are still convinced that Gelato has a bright future in China. More and more excellent mainstream businesses are entering the market with clearer rules, providing a standard for people to follow and to improve their business. At the same time, “survival of the fittest” makes sure that inferior suppliers and Gelato shops will be knocked out. A purified market will develop its own virtuous cycle.

Carpigiani: we believe Gelato will be better and better in China. now people have a higher demand on food safety, freshness, and variety. Gelato meets their expectations perfectly and it will enjoy a nationwide popularity as long as it is fully recognized by people.

healthy and delicious Italian Gelato to the world leaders.

Could you please tell us about the Gelato World Tour and why you initiated the competition?

Fabbri: It’s the fourth year since the first Gelato World Tour in 2013. As an initiator, rule and marking criterion maker of the competition, Fabbri has intended to let people know more about Gelato. In the past, the culture and knowledge were limited to a small amount of people within the industry.

Therefore we have to reach the mass to expand Gelato’s appeal, and competition is a good way to include every foodie to join us.

High quality Gelato pleases your heart. Despite its low popularity and a long way to go, we are still confident that Gelato, with its beauty of being natural, original, fresh and healthy, will capture your heart one day.

What is the Gelato World Tour like? As the biggest professional competition in China, how does it promote Gelato’s appeal in this market?

Carpigiani: There are regional sub-competitions and the major competition. We have sub-competitions in Beijing, Chengdu and Guangzhou (each one will last for

www.hotelex.cn.

102

MY

CY

CMY

K

CONTACT U S

China Nicole Ou RM1103B, No.222 Huaihai Zhong Rd., Huangpu District, Shanghai, China +0086 6333 9299 cti@coffeetimagazine.com

Thailand&Malaysia Blue Sky Books Co., Ltd 65/4-6 Soi Chokchai Ruammit Wipawadee Rangsit Road, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand +622 6915891 +662 6915892 info@blueskybooks.net

Singapore Lulu Zhao The Prospex 108 Middle Road #01-01 & 02-01 Singapore 188967 +0086 13708478436 lucy@mellowercoffee.com

Vietnam Vuong Boi Nghi 3rd Fl, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai st, Dist 1, HCMC, VietNam +84-8 3822 5806 aki@coffeetandi.com

Macau John Leung +853 2878 2878 john_leung@spcoffee.com.co

South Korea Sissi Xiao #4906, Block 107, 297 Tanhyeon-dong,Ilsanseo-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea 010-2314-1024 031-919-8118 sissi10.24@hotmail.com

WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS. Please contact: cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com