bimonthly magazine ● vol.57 ● March - April 2017
BREW + TASTE
TEMP. TIME
NEVER STOP LEARNING SILV ERS
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O N Y X Pro
The perfect brew ratio
THE FAST AND EASY WAY TO CUSTOMIZE YOUR ESPRESSO MACHINE
http://onyx.creminternational.com
www.victoriaarduino.com
Content 74 CTI Class
COFFEE ADDICTED
06 Editorial
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CATCH UP
Stop Renouncing Refractometers
42 Cover Story 78 Origin
08 World News
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Coffee’s Transport and Storage
16 Product
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Kenya: The Backward Rise of the
Small Estate Farm
COFFEE LIFE
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20 Coffee & Five Senses --
TEA AND ICED 98 Tea
Smell
24 Cafe Hopping 32 Cafe Around World 36 Drinks 38 Design 40 Latte Art
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Beginner: Never Stop Learning
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Intermediate: Back to School
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Professional: Coffee Competition
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SCA: Unified But Not Uniformed
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The Taste of Tea
57 Trade Show ●
Key Words 2016
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Cafe Show Vietnam 2017
64 Who to follow 66 Trade Show Preview ●
Food & Hotel Vietnam 2017
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Host Milano 2017
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Post-winter Tea
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Seeking Real Green Tea In UJI-
SHI, KYOTO
112 Iced ●
70 Management ●
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Korea Coffee Supermarket -
ArounZ
Carpigiani Gelato Museum
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The “Gelato in- forma”
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Vivoli: Gelato Practicing Traditional
Tastes
Editorial Editorial
Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan sam@blueskybooks.net
Welcome So far 2017 has been interesting and exciting, here at Coffee T&I we planed amazing changes and we are keeping it up not to let you down. We decided to dedicate this issue to education as New Year is associated with a fresh start, and for us there is no better start than new knowledge. Any educational program can seem difficult and confusing but we tried to make it as simple as a manual for everyone interested in basic or professional knowledge. We talked to baristas, coffee schools’ founders, SCA (A/E) representatives and can tell why it is important to educate yourself and your customers – it is all about sustainability and development of coffee industry. A better-educated coffee professional deepens industry’s knowledge, creates new concepts, while a better-educated consumer strengthens the industry. Keeping this dialogue and creating coffee community now is easier than ever, thanks to social networks and the Internet. In fact, newly formed SCA is the great example of going global and bringing coffee closer to each and every professional and, as a result, customer. Staying open and being global is one of our big goals and we are happy to show you more and more cities with their coffee culture, specialty coffee cafés, competitions, news and people behind the scene (and a counter).Working on this issue was also very educating for us and we hope to never stop learning (I personally decided to do some coffee course). Hope, you will enjoy it as much as we do and if you ever have any questions you know where to find us! Dasha Kartasheva
Coffee t&i ( China ) Chief Editor: Nicole Ou English Editor: Dasha Kartasheva Chinese Editor: Echo Lou Editorial Team: Faye Hu, Cindy Ning, Yazmin Su Graphic Designer: Hanna, Hailong Fang Blue Sky Books Team Bodin Amornpattanakul Thitiwat Deeyuadying Sutdrip Jenny Wang Vachapon Thisadeeruk Publisher Coffee t&i (China) RM1103B, No.222 Huaihai Zhong Rd., Huangpu District Shanghai, China Tel: +0086 21 6333 9299 Email: cti@coffeetimagazine.com The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher
Contributors Matthew Perger Founder of Braista Hustle
To update Coffee Society news, please visit
Melanie Leeson Director of Marketing & Development The Collaborative Coffee Source Daniel Millard Humphries Origin Manager from Origin Coffee Network Love Chan Tea expert from Taiwan
www.facebook.com/CoffeeMagazine
Fei Liu Tea Master from Fujian Roberta De Sanctis A biologist with 15-years-experience and a nutritionist; We are always looking for talented contributors. If you have any good idea, welcome to share it with us: cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com
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www.youtube.com/coffeetandi
Catch Up
ACE® New Leadership During the recent meeting (January 8, 2017)held in Portland, Oregon the Board of Directors of The Alliance For Coffee Excellence(ACE) voted to give Darrin Daniel its leading role. “We knew that we wanted someone who is aligned with the ACE mission and has vast experience working closely with both farmers and the marketplace. Darrin is an amazing fit for the organization” explains Geoff Watts. ACE’s Board Chairman. Darrin replaces the interim director and founder of the organization, Susie Spindler. “I am thrilled that Darrin has accepted this position.He brings an incredible understanding and enthusiasm for coffee farmers, high quality coffee and the global
specialty coffee sector. All three are centeral for the work of Cup of Excellence, ACE’s premier program,”indicated Spindler. Daniel is excited to take the helm. “It is with great honor that I assume the role of Executive Director for the Alliance for Coffee Excellence. Since my first experience as an International Judge in Honduras in 2005, Cup of Excellence has had a special place in my heart and coffee career. I am overjoyed to be able to lead this organization’s future.”
Ben & Jerry Pint’s Slices Ice-cream company Ben & Jerry’s is introducing a new ice cream bar: Pint Slices. The name refers to original Ben & Jerry’s pint of ice cream, but now it is divided by three, as there are three ice cream bars in one box; also each slice is individually wrapped so it is easier to share with friends or not to eat the whole pint by yourself and avoid a mess. Pint Slices are available in 4 flavors – Americone Dream, Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Vanilla Peanut Butter Cup.
Colombia Will Host the 1st World Coffee Producers Forum Between July 10 and July 12, 2017, Colombia will host the World Coffee Producers Forum. Organized by a conglomerate of coffee producing countries, the forum will summon key players of the coffee production chain (exporters, importers, roasters, traders, etc.) and of the global industry to discuss the main challenges faced by the coffee sector. As a mechanism to foster sustainability from the seed to the cup, the forum seeks to identify strategies that contribute to achieving a better distribution of value and responsibility among all actors of the chain. Themes that will be discussed include economic sus-
tainability of producers, rural development, climate change adaptation, price volatility, generational knowledge exchange and co-responsibility in the value chain. The forum will welcome 500 participants including representatives from 40 coffee producing countries and key actors of the industry. Colombian coffee growers, union leaders, representatives of Colombia’s coffee institutions, NGOs, foundations, academics, multilateral organizations, certifiers, verifiers, public entities and banks will also be part of the forum.
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Catch Up
Starbucks: A Friend In Need Is A Friend Indeed After Executive Order was issued to ban all immigrants from seven Muslimmajority countries, and all global refugees, from entering the United States on January 27th, Starbucks wielded the influence they have to show that America welcomes people and American Dream is for everyone. The company plans to hire 10,000 refugees over the course of the next five years. Moreover, as the executive order affects citizens (including dual citizens) from Iran, Iraq, Libya, Somalia, Sudan, Syria, and Yemen even though Egypt, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates, Starbucks had partnered with Ernest & Young to offer free legal advice to help their employees navigate immigration issues and make situation clear for each of them. “We have a long history of hiring young people looking for opportunities and a pathway to a new life around the world. This is why we are doubling down on this commitment by working with our equity market employees as well as joint
venture and licensed market partners in a concerted effort to welcome and seek opportunities for those fleeing war, violence, persecution and discrimination. There are more than 65 million citizens of the world recognized as refugees by the United Nations, and we are developing plans to hire 10,000 of them over five years in the 75 countries around the world where Starbucks does business. And we will start this effort here in the U.S. by making the initial focus of our hiring efforts on those individuals who have served with U.S. troops as interpreters and support personnel in the various countries where our military has asked for such support.” said Starbucks CEO, Howard Schultz.
Choose Experience. Choose BUNN.
Barista Nation Is Coming To New York Barista Nation is a grass roots series of events, produced by UNIC Espresso Machines, in collaboration with local roasters, baristas, and others in the coffee community, focusing on sharing knowledge and furthering the professional development of baristas. Barista Nation New York is the latest in a series of Barista Nation events, currently in its 6th year of production, and set up in a forum-like setting, pulling talent from local communities and outside experts, in an effort to create long last-
ing coffee communities around the world. Get hands-on experience with high-concept espresso machine Stella Di Caffè,and other brewing methods, learn about trending and cutting edge topics concerning the coffee industry, make new friends and build relationships with your peers and leaders in coffee. Follow @baristanation, the full program will be shortly unveiled! Join us on May 4th for BARISTA NATION NYC, at Shop Studios Film and TV Studio Rental, 528 West 29th St, New York.
Your beverage menu requires equipment that is consistently reliable and precise. Pascale MOLL - p-moll@unic-sa.com
+33 (0)4 92 08 62 88
bunn.com 12
Catch Up
Tea’s Health Benefits Biomedical engineers at Washington University found that the compound epigallocatechine-3-gallate (EGCG) may be of particular benefit to patients struggling with multiple myeloma and amyloidosis (a rare disease of the bone marrow). EGCG is a polyphenol found in green tea leaves, it is also found in many spices and herbs like oregano, cloves, cocoa power, star anise, flaxseed meal and dark chocolate. Previous study made by Washington University showed that EGCG stop dangerous build-ups to form in people with Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s disease. “My group is looking at the mechanism of the protein in a test tube; we are studying how it works on a foundational level. At the same time, clinical trials at the Amyloidosis Center in Heidelberg, with Alzheimer’s in Berlin and with Parkinson’s in China examine the process in people. We all want this compound to work in a patient.” said Jan Bieschke, assistant professor of biomedical engineering at the university’s School of Engineering & Applied Science.
Florence - February 7th, 2017 La Marzocco, a leader in the production of traditional high-end espresso machines, announced an opening of a new branch office in Germany, La Marzocco Deutschland GmbH. La Marzocco established its ninth branch in collaboration with its partner, a skilful businessman and espresso machine expert who has been working in the coffee industry for 15 years, Pasquale De Falco from “Nuova Ricambi Deutschland”, the official L a Marzocco Spare Parts supplier in Germany. La Marzocco Deutschland will distribute espresso m ach i ne s a nd s p a re p a r t s i n t he co u nt r y t h ro u g h robust support and training, as well as through the launch of local trade, community and educational bean-to-cup events for both clients and customers as well as coffee professionals and enthusiasts. La Marzocco Deutschland is located in Maulbronner Weg, 25 in 71706 Markgröningen, Germany.
Nespresso Introduced Selection Vintage 2014
La Marzocco Announces The Launch Of Its Deutschland
oxygen, while air is cold and moisture freezes instead of being absorbed by the beans. Karsten Ranitzsch, Head of Coffee at Nespresso, explained, “With the SELECTION VINTAGE 2014 we wanted to present an entirely new flavor with unique qualities. To this end, we used a method, which is very well known in the food and beverage industry, and applied it to coffee. To age the coffee we needed to start with beans of an exceptional quality and then store them in specialised conditions that we regulated constantly. Any minuscule change in the moisture, temperature, time, atmospheric pressure, light and oxygen conditions would affect the final taste. This carefully tailored process has resulted in an outstanding coffee with a very distinct flavor profile.”
S e l e c t i o n v i n t a ge 2014 by Nespresso is new limited edition aged coffee for both OriginalLine and Vertuo machine owners. Strict storage conditions were created to perfectly age the coffee and unveil a distinct new flavor, complex taste with elegant woodiness. Coffee was harvested in 2014 and then aged in a Colombian warehouse, as it is located near the equator at an altitude of almost 3,700 meters, there is less
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NEW! Destoners
loring.com/destoners
LORING.COM
Catch Up
Colombia Is To Host The International Talent Show Barista & Farmer Applications to take part in the new Barista & Farmer, the only international talent show promoting the production and sale of quality coffee, opened on 23rd January. The fourth event celebrating the culture and excellence of coffee worldwide is to take place in February 2018 in Colombia, the world’s third largest coffee producer. At the event ten of the world’s top baristas, selected from many applicants by a group of industry professionals, will have the opportunity to live a life of coffee manufacturers for ten days. The format was devised by Francesco Sanapo, multi-award-winning champion barista, in association with the Italian Exhibition Group and SIGEP - International Exhibition of Artisan Gelato, Confectionery, Pastry and Bakery Production, with the patronage of the Speciality Coffee Association (SCA).
The new talent show has added sustainability to its values of education and competition. And after the successful 2016 event hosted by Brazil (the first being held in Porto Rico in 2013 and the second in Honduras in 2015), Lavazza will be among the main partners and sponsors of the event for the second time running. On the theme of what it means to “make a sustainable coffee”, Lavazza will play a major role in the ¡Tierra! Project developed in 2002 in conjunction with the charity the Rainforest Alliance, which aims to improve the social and environmental conditions and production techniques of some coffee producing communities. One of these is Brazilian Lambarì, which hosted the last Barista & Farmer event won by Nikolaos Kanakaris, a 32-year old Greek barista from Athens.
50 Years Of Passion Together! Just like many of the best success stories, PreGel also had modest beginnings. It all started in a small suburb lab in 1967 with the passion of one man, Luciano Rabboni, and his nonstop quest to develop premium-quality dessert ingredient solutions, plus successful ideas and concepts to enhance the lives and businesses of passionate gelato makers. Today, after 50 years of sacrifices, hard work, and achievements, the company has decided to celebrate its anniversary together with all those who contributed to helping PreGel reach this goal. With its 18 subsidiaries and a sales network that covers over 130 countries, PreGel represents a true benchmark in the sectors of artisan gelato, frozen yogurt, pastry and coffee shop in Italy and around the world. In fact, day after day it works side-by-side with all professional gelato and pastry chefs who choose the best for their customers.
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From the wide range of products for gelato to those for frozen yogurt, a true must-have in soft serve shops around the world; from the deluxe artisan pastry line to the products for cocktail clubs and coffee-shops, all of PreGel’s solutions are fitting to turn each store into a successful business and a meeting point for consumers any time of the day. The 50th anniversary celebration officially started at SIGEP 2017, in Rimini, Italy, where PreGel launched 2017 novelties and boast the most significant flavors that have marked its history. Following this occasion, many more events will be organized throughout the year, in addition to classes, seminars, and live demos held at the International Training Centers.
Product
LADETINA Grind and Drip Automatic Coffee Maker ● The coffee machine with conical and easyremovable stainless steel burr grinder; ● Revolutionary direct-sprinkling way to collect powder to make sure coffee freshness and no residual after grinding; ● 14 levels of grinding, 5 coffee strength settings, 3-10 cups digital settings; ● keep warm function can set for 20-120min, and 2 pre-brewing time settings and memorized by the program. LADETINA smart grinding drip coffee machine, which intelligent brewing functions can let you have good experience in making coffee.
www.coffeedz.com Email: dz@coffeedz.com
WEGA Colour Your Coffee! One of the latest additions to the Wega range is the IO. With its fresh design and outstanding performance, it really stands out from the crowd! Available in three models - a 1 unit machine, a 2-unit COMPACT machine and a 2-unit machine - it will appeal to anyone who has limited available space but doesn’t want to forego the pleasure of authentic Italian espresso.
The IO comes in three eye-catching colour options: Brilliant Orange, Acid Green and Pearl White, a tribute to the Italian flag revisited in neon tones. Its “pop-art” style hides a high-tech interior that is fine-tuned for energy saving, one of the key tenets of the Wega philosophy. The COMPACT model offers an innovative energy consumption optimisation system allowing the barista to put one or both dispensing unit boilers into standby mode. The IO 1 unit machine is available in two versions: one with an internal tank and the other with a connection to the water supply, while the IO 2-unit COMPACT has both options. There’s no doubting that the IO was born to be personalised: the unmistakable shape of its side and rear panels provides the ultimate canvas to unleash your creativity. Whether you’re using photos, graphics or your favourite patterns, the IO gives you outstanding artistic freedom.
www.wega.it
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patented scale technology (now available as an option on the strada av)
• know the precise dose in the cup • • program the dose on the basis of weight in the cup rather than volume • • visualize the time (in seconds) and weight (in grams) on the display while brewing • • provide a great educational tool when training baristas •
www.lamarzocco.com
Product
VA358 The Modern Lever Coffee Machine VA358 White Eagle lever offers a barista the ability to use advanced technology and enjoy modern design, without having to give up the chance to express all their skills and knowledge in the art of making espresso. The future and tradition of espresso machines are blended together in the VA358 White Eagle Lever. The lever system in a professional coffee machine allows the barista to modulate the time of pre-infusion manually for each delivery: lower the lever and hot water from the boiler enters the group wetting the coffee. The more the barista holds down the lever, the longer the preinfusion. A good professional waits for the first drops of coffee to come out of the spout before lifting the lever. This means that water has permeated all the coffee. Leverage and technology for excellence in the cup. The VA358 White Eagle Lever has the technical characteristics to offer very creamy coffee. The secret is in the heat exchangers, controlling the water temperature to optimise quality in the extracted coffee. VA358 White Eagle lever is available in three different color version: stainless steel, white or black.
Barsetto® Series: Portable Coffee Accessories In order to enjoy your coffee with a convenient yet joyful experience, Barsetto has never stopped innovating new possibilities. Currently, Barsetto is relentlessly increasing the selection of products available for the Tripresso portable coffee machine. Portable Ground Case If you like freshly ground coffee, the portable ground case is a must have item. Filled with the right amount of grounds and with the Tripresso filter, you will have everything you need to make the perfect pressed coffee. ●
Tripresso PACK Made using durable yet fashionable denim material and soft internal layer of lining, its integral form matches perfectly with the Tripresso body and can resist shocks, abrasion, and dust. ●
Portable Mug Keeps beverages hot for 6 hours to ensure the quality of your espresso. ●
www.barsetto.com
info@barsetto.com
www.nuovasimonelli.it
Conti Excellium New advanced treatment of the Monte Carlo filter holders and spouts A new ContiExcellium treatment based on the nanoparticle technology will be applied inside the Monte Carlo filter holders and spouts in order to improve the technical feature of these surfaces. The ContiExcellium treatment gives to the treated surfaces a subtle anodized tint with rainbow shine, offering remarkable sanitary quality: - Antibacterial treatment - Anti sediment treatment - High endurance - NSF homologation The efficiency of the treatment developed by the Research&Development department gives all relevance to the replacement of the previous process obtained by Teflon coating. If the Teflon coating treatment proved to be efficient against coffee or milk sedimentation, it had the inconvenience of being mechanically attacked and to be altered in its integrity, at the risk of partial shedding that would limit its specifications.
Regarding the use, this new technology will give more satisfaction to the machine’s users, making the cleaning operation easier and protecting the parts against the risk of sedimentation. We are offering you a preview of this new technology “ContiExcellium” that will soon equip your Monte Carlo machines, in order to promote the benefits of this technology among your clients and to share our will to develop desirable high-tech machines.
www.conti-espresso.com
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www.conti-spareparts.com
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coffee knowledge Story/ Xiaofeng Wang
COFFEE AND SENSE OF
SMELL
All scents we have sensed since birth have contributed to the construction and consummation of the memory bank of our olfactory sensation. During summer in childhood, blended odors of salty water left in hair after swimming, orange soda together with streets shaded by luxuriant trees constitute our memory of summer. After growing up, if we smell the scent of salty water, leaves and orange soda again, the memory of childhood summer will revive. Otherwise, if grandma once cooked a super delicious braised pork, we would probably expect the same taste again every time we sensed that smell (though tastes could be different in spite of the similar scent). Olfaction is the deception, guidance and supplementary to sensation. Pleasant scents can make our sensation quite joyful. Similarly, disgusting odors can also bring us unpleasant experiences .
When smelling the scent of apple, we expect to see an apple. . However, it is also likely to come out from another object with apple fragrance. Cosmetics companies always make huge efforts to add pleasant scents into their products. For example, coconut flavored shampoo can function as relaxant by reminding people of things such as beach, tropical region, holiday, etc.
Physical conditions that completes olfaction:
● Volatile odor molecules ● Propagation medium
(mainly refers to air) ● Nose ● Olfactory nerves ● Olfactory memories
Why some people cannot help grabbing freshly baked bread while walking past a bakery? Why other people, who originally did not plan to, end up getting a cup of coffee when walking into a coffee shop? How easy is it for people to resist the enchanting scent of flowers and leave the flower shop without a bunch of roses? The scent of cosmetics and perfumes in department stores, the smell of paper in bookstores… The unique scent associated with a certain space not only becomes part of our memory regarding that space, but also affects our consumption experience. Olfactory sensation gives us the very first impression of an object when we touch or taste it for the first time. This perception might not always be unbiased, but tends to dominate. In forests, animals are able to search distant prey by smell. People who have been away from home for a long time feel relieved the moment they return home, perhaps due to the familiar odor. A couple often close their eyes to sense the scent of each other. Olfaction is related to memory and imagination: people relies on smell to judge invisible or untouchable objects, the benchmark of which happens to originate from memory and imagination.
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None of the above conditions is dispensable. Firstly, odor molecules of a compound (volatile) evaporate into the air, after which our nose captures these molecules. The molecules then travel across the mucus of nasal cavity and interact with the olfactory cells at the top of our nose. Olfactory nerves now start to transmit sensations to those odor molecules to the brain. Finally, the brain will pair up the captured odors with the existing olfactory memories so as to determine the smell we have just sensed. As seen, though olfaction and audition are both remote sensation, they differ in nature: auditory sensation does not originate from a specific compound whereas olfactory sensation is transmitted from odor molecules of a real existing matter. The acuity and preciseness of olfaction depend on the following variables. For example, the first variable is volatile odor molecules. Some compounds contain a large amount
of volatile aromatic components. When pressing oranges, people are able to sense citrus aromatic scent distantly. However, it is harder to discern some other compounds from their smell. For example, people can hardly rely only on olfaction to sense the existence of pure water without their eyes open. That is because there are almost no volatile aromatic compounds present in pure water. Secondly, propagation medium’s mobility also has an impact. When wind blows, it accelerates molecules’ propagation and thus makes it easier to smell distant odors. Nose also plays a role: if somebody unfortunately catches a cold, mucus the inside his nose will get thicker, making it difficult for odor molecules to pass through and hence harder for us to smell any odor. Also,after olfactory nerves transmit our odor sensation to the brain, it fails to match up with our olfactory memories, we still cannot discern those odors.
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coffee knowledge
COFFEE AND SENSE OF SMELL CAN SMELL BE TRAINED? When we open a bag of sealed coffee, roasted coffee aroma will first hit our noses and let us have a first impression of coffee’s flavor, whether it is fruity aroma from light roast, nutty aroma from medium roast and even smoky aroma from dark roast.
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DRY AROMA Smell the fragrance from roasted coffee powder after grinding. Dry Aroma in essence is organics spilled together with carbon dioxide. Normally, the fruitiness is the first aroma
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caught by tasters.
CUP AROMA Pour the hot water into powder, smell the cup aroma given out from vapor. The main aromas are fruity, greens/vegetable and nutty.
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NOSE-DERIVED
AFTER TASTE This step comes after swallowing, as there is still some flavor and fragrance on the palate. Aftertastes appear from aromatic volatiles of macromolecule, which are mainly the product of coffee ground in dry distillation, they are similar to pine / charcoal or wood fragrance and may also have the bitter taste of chocolate.
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This smelling sensation happens during tasting coffee: liquid molecules in coffee become aromas while being sipped with effort (as it usually happens during tasting). The aroma enters into the nose as nose and mouth are united, and captured by the olfactory cells. Nose-derived fragrances are majorly formed because of caramelization during roasting.
As we mentioned previously, brain can distinguish an aroma by memorizing it. Although the memory is a result of long-term accumulation, it can be acquired quickly from intensive and strengthen training. First of all, we need to believe in our noses. Olfactory cells on the nasal mucosa can feel thousands of different compounds of gaseous phosphate in one time, not only their kind but also their strength. On average, every person can distinguish 2000 to 4000 different smells. Of course the sensitivity of smell differs one from another, but after training, highly developed olfactory memory plays a more important role than the innate sense of smell. Coffee tasters usually use smelling-jars methods; the most popular of them is one called ‘Coffee Nose’ by SCAA, which includes 36 fragrant jars that are given to 4 groups of people to smell and identify several groups of smells: fermented group, caramel group, carbonized group and defective group. Fermented group is a group of the most volatile aromatic substances, and floral / fruit / herb aromas are most often found in freshly roasted and ground coffee powder. Caramel group is formed during the caramelization, including nutty/brown sugar/cocoa fragrances. Carbonized group is the least volatile one, having lipids/ spices/ charcoal fragrances, which are commonly found in dark roasted coffee. Training process is to smell and match again and again, to build the olfactory memory on these 4 groups. For example, when we smell the nutty fragrance, we can search the most related odor and describe it as “roast almond” or “roast peanut”. Olfactory memory on one coffee can be built by distinguishing 3 to 4 fragrances. Next time we smell the similar fragrance mix on a coffee, we can preliminarily evaluate it might be washed Yirgacheff or Mandheling.
CAN SMELL AFFECT TASTE? When we taste certain food or drinks, if pinch our noses, we may have quite different experience. Actually, most of the flavors that we know are forms of smells - scientists consider that 75%-95% so-called tastes are coming from smell. Without the smell, taste will be dull and flat. Without smell, we could not feel the beautiful aroma of coffee or even identify its taste like sour, sweet or bitter. The identification of flavors like the ones of flowers, fruits and nuts, is more dependable on smell sense; the existence of different fragrances improves a lot the complexity of coffee flavors. So next time, why not to pinch your nose while drinking washed Yirgacheffe, which is supposed to have rich floral fragrance? Perhaps you will just feel acidity and sweetness of normal kind of coffee, but not the magical flavor of specialty coffee. Smell sense is so important that it affects our food appreciation, impression of people and space and even our emotional memory. Only if we pay a little attention to fragrances around us every day, we will have more interesting sensations. So please embrace this little trick that sense of smell plays with the rest of our senses!
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Cafe Hopping
The late autumn of Seoul, the ginkgo and maple leaves complement each other. No matter if you are walking around the Gyeongbokgung Palace, or lingering on the fashion boulevard, you can always see the road full of ginkgo leaves. The whole city is under the atmosphere of love and romance. By attending the Seoul Café Show exhibit, the CTI group had a chance to visit 14 cafes, from the sleepless Hongik University area to the Jongno area, then to the Gangnam area, feeling the cultures of Seoul’s cafes. Address
MAPO-GU
Metro Tel Opening Hours
Fritz Coffee Company
Keywords
179-9 Dohwa-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
LATE FALL OF SEOUL
THE JOURNEY OF SOUTH KOREAN COFFEE We all know South Korea for its industrial business, K-pop and teen idols, Korean soap operas and famous brands such as LG and Samsung. However, South Korea had already surpassed Japan and became one of the most coffee-consuming nation after the US, coffee is a brand new title for South Korea. According to the data from ICO (International Coffee Organization), only in 2014, the amount of coffee consumed in South Korea had reached to 1,900,000 kg, the consumed amount for one person is 2.3 kg., In other words, one drinks about 2 cups of 310 ml /cup. South Korea is the most coffee consuming nation in Asia; in 2016, the numbers of cafes were three times bigger compare to 2015. For example, in Seoul, on the average of 10,000 people, there are 17 cafes opened, the density is even higher than Seattle. Therefore, this kind of explosive power helps pushing the coffee culture in South Korea forward to a new level. In fact, the coffee culture in South Korea has only been popular for about half century, compare to other European countries and the US, South Korean coffee culture is still premature, but it has a lot of potential. Unlike tea culture in China and Japan, which has already been there for thousands of years, before coffee became popular, South Korea has no favorite drink. Around 1950, Japanese tea culture made its way to South Korea, but people in South Korea didn’t accept that. Until the Korean War, under the influences of the US military, coffee culture became popularized. In the 80s, the Seoul Olympics brought the coffee culture into a new level.
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Gongdeok
08:00-23:00; Weekends 10:00-23:00 Champion store, fresh roast not just coffee
Fritz Coffee Company was established in June 2014, and despite its recent opening, it already is famous around the city. Almost every year when South Korean baristas attend a competition, they use the beans from Fritz. Last year, Kim Sa Hong, South Korea representative in WBC, was also trained by Fritz. This famous Fritz Coffee Company is located in the old fashioned Korean house, the building has a L-shape, it combines coffee roastery, bakery, café and education center. Walk through the small garden behind the gate, then to the stairs and push in: you will find two-floor house with its original walls and stairs. First floor has espresso, drip coffee bar and their own freshly baked bread and desserts station; second floor is the vintage style customers’ area. The whole building gives you the feeling like it has an old soul and reenergizes with coffee instead of blood. Fritz Coffee Company was founded by several baristas and bakery chefs, one of the baristas is the 2014 South Korean barista champion Park Keun Ha, Coffee Libre raw beans buyer Kim Byeong gi, roaster Kim Do Hyeon, and also Song Seung Man, who used to work at El Café. When we visited the store, it was noon on weekday, the store was filled with people buying coffee and bread. Not only the store is famous for its coffee, their fresh pastry is another popular item in the menu.
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Cafe Hopping
FELT 23, Seogang-ro 11-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Sogang University
FELT is located near Sogang University. It used to be a piano studio, now FELT still its original facade. Although on the outside it is not noticeable, their equipment is not amateur at all, having all specialty coffee gears inside. Once you open the door, you can see a white Slayer along with EK43 grinder, very nice and clean. FELT doesn’t offer desserts; they only sell coffee and beans. Despite opening only about one year ago, FELT is already famous among the local people. The average amount of sold cups per day is around 150 cups or more.
08:00-18:00; weekends 11:00-18:00
Less is more
The design inside is simple, only wood color besides black and white; the colors make the stereo and record machine more dazzling, which plays jazz. This minimalistic style (even no tables) brings the most intuitive coffee experience; this was exactly FELT’s original idea. They hope that this way customers will be able to focus on coffee itself, while enjoying its mix with the music. One of the founders of FELT, Kim Yeong Hyeon, is awarded as the best of the best in South Korean coffee society. Long before FELT was founded, he and his partner, Song Daxiong, founded the roastery-café, Mad Coffee, and it has already gained popularity in South Korea and abroad.
Coffee Libre 252-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Hongik University
12:00-21:00, closed on Monday
One of the three original roasting companies in South Korea
Bean Brothers 35-1, Tojeong-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Its founder, Pil Hoon, is one of the veterans in South Korean coffee scene, he is also the first South Korean Q-Grader. Their roasted beans are rewarded by COE, also they were used in WBC and showed good results. Coffee Libre buys raw beans from 12 different farms worldwide every year, they also have a farm in Nicaragua called Finca Libre; during the interview Pil said that he was not going to open any new stores, he wanted to focus on working, growing and roasting beans, that are sold in the store.
Coffee Libre, one of the leading brands of specialty coffee in Seoul, was named one of the eight must try self-roasting brands in South Korea by Sprudge. Established in 2008, now it has four stores, we went to the first one located in Yeonnam-dong. Although the space in the café is limited, only about ten seats, but it still had a lot of people. Four pop style wrestling masks hanging on the concrete wall and old Chinese medicine cabinet as decoration, each drawer displays their own roasted beans, the old house is filled with nice and relaxing vibe.
Hapjeong
Located close to Hongik University, Bean Brothers was once transformed from an abandoned wine warehouse to a coffee and culture space. Big revolving glass door, triangle shaped open-bar, the bar lets baristas to communicate and to take care of the customers at the same time. Despite the whole simple steel concrete design, this unique combination doesn’t seem dull at all. T h ree fo u nde r s go t to k now n e ach o t he r through entrepreneurship association in college; in order to imply knowledge they have learned, they needed to find a constant meeting place. While they were trying to find a proper place, they realized there was not any private space for group meetings.
11:00-23:00
Brotherhood coffee bar
That is how they founded ABLESQUARE together, the predecessor of Bean Brothers. Now, Bean Brothers has six stores in Seoul, five of them opened in 2014. The first store was opened in Hapjeong-dong with a “Dynamic, wholesale, People” concept, it has bakery and roasting studios and coffee educational equipment. BK from Fritz Coffee Company is responsible for recommending raw beans to Bean Brothers; three types of beans in store are named after three famous writers. Bean Brothers is not just a gathering point for coffee, it also has a whole section designed for books, Bean Brothers combines coffee with culture.
YEONGDEUNGPO-GU
EL Cafe 21-7, Yeongdeungpo-ro 42-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul
Seonyudo
08:00-21:00
One of the three original roasting companies.
El café likes to use light roasting and medium roasting together to create their own flavor, opening the way for South Korea to get more knowledge on specialty coffee. At the same time, El café keeps direct trading with farms to improve the quality of the beans. El café has moved a lot, in order to find an efficient space to reach the satisfaction of roasting quality. Over 50% of the customer are attracted to El café by people who work there.
El Café is one of the three biggest specialty coffee roasting companies in South Korea, it was founded in 2010, having three stores by now. It does not only sells coffee, but also does business of raw beans and selfroasting. El café is a senior coffee roasting company in South Korean coffee scene; monthly amount of roasted beans is around 4000 kg, the ratio of online and in-store selling is one to three.
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Cafe Hopping
Namusairo 21, Sajik-ro 8-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Gyeongbokgung Palace
10:00-22:00
Hanok Style
Café, well known roasting company
the details of this traditional architecture. By drinking excellent coffee and enjoying the architecture, you can feel the beauty of time. Namusairo is named one of the best South Korean independent roastery. It only imports 90+ raw beans, roast them into medium light, so it provides limited amount of coffee beans. Namusairo also exports coffee bens to the US and provides American coffee shops.
Namusairo means ‘in between the green trees’. In 2002, it first opened near Seoul National University, in 2013, it moved to Gwanghwamun, very close to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Fall in Seoul, golden ginkgo leaves everywhere, rows of ginkgo trees as we go to the café, what a nice view. The café is modified from a traditional hanok house; while enjoying coffee you can also look through
Coffee Graffiti 28-3, Yeongdeungpo-ro 13-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul Closed on Sunday
09:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00;
Seonyudo
Irish coffee, low profile champion café
People who know about coffee and competitions should be familiar with this café’s owner, Lee Jung Hoon, who has won a lot of championships in South Korean competitions, including his fifth place in WBC 2009. His brand Coffee Graffiti plays a role of coffee roastery and operator. Earlier Graffiti had a store near Hongik University, which moved last year to Yeongdeungpo-gu, so now it has a bigger roasting machine and set. Coffee
roasting amount is 2 tons per month, and roasting level medium light. Not only it has specialty coffee in store, if you are lucky, you can also taste Lee Jung Hoon’s own coffee creations. As Lee Jung Hoon works in Dublin, the store sells Irish coffee, you can choose your favorite whiskey as base. The café also provides tea. From the equipment point of view, the owner is a collector on grinder, tamper and coffee cups.
JONGNO-GU
SEONGBUK-GU Alex the Coffee
260-38 Seongbuk-dong, seongbuk-gu, Seoul Bus)
10:00-21:00; Weekends 10:00-22:00
Hansung University (Transfer 2112/1111 etc. café in the greenhouse; web star
the Red Dot award in 2013. Alex The Coffee has four stores, the ones in Seongbuk and Cheongdamdong, that mainly sells desserts, the one we went to is deep inside Seongbuk-dong, although it is not close to metro, it doesn’t stop Korean people from coming here and loving the place. Each store has its own design, because the owner, Alex Choi, thinks that not only it is important to drink good coffee, but at the same time, surrounding elements cannot be ignored, so everything and even music is carefully chosen by Alex, every detail reflects his character. The most famous drink in Alex The Coffee is its cold brew. Filling the specially designed bottle with the cold brew liquid, the amount of water added is varied upon a person’s taste, so each of us can have our own favorite cold brew. Moreover, Alex The Coffee values the idea of having organic drinks and desserts, so it promotes organic products from South Korean local farms through the “Neighborhood Project”. The average amounts of cups sold daily is 100 cups, roasting around 2kg per day, mainly medium level.
Alex The Coffee is an internet star in Seoul specialty coffee society. Its strong space design and green plants catch people’s eyes. South Korean Q-Grader Alex Choi founded this place in September 2013, the first store is a café that stores and roasts raw beans. Although it is outside of the Seoul, many people still come and visit it because of the greenhouse design; the building even won
Lusso 63-1, Samcheong Rd., Jongno-gu, Seoul
Anguk
10:00-22:00
franchise coffee brand
lingering between traditions and modernity
Samcheong-dong is located between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Hanok Village and you can feel Korean traditional spirit there. The art center and museums along the road exude an elegant and artistic atmosphere. You will see Lusso Barista Lab before you enter Samcheong-dong. Lusso Barista Lab is the franchise coffee brand of the most famous South
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Korean coffee electronic brand ArounZ, which has three stores by now. The first floor in Lusso has a self-drip coffee area, the second floor has a great balcony, facing the street. In this nice weather, warm sunlight slightly warms a coffee table and plants, rich coffee aroma flying in the air bring this fresh and lazy vibe.
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Cafe Hopping
SEONGDONG-GU
Mesh 43, Seoulsup-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul
Ttukseom
10:00-18:00; Closed on Sunday
Small but
fine roasting studio
Café Mesh does not have a big space, but it has everything you need inside. Less than 20 square meters of the store, there is a roasting studio, that provides around 5 kg of freshly roasted beans every day, and it is one of the lightest roasting cafés that exists, it was also awarded by COE in 2015 and 2016. The inside of the café is nice and warm, but it is a bit far from the center of the town. Since its opening
in January 2015, it already has gained popularity among customers. The average amount of cups sold per day is over 100. Two owners, Kim Kee Hoon and Kim Hyeong Seok, are both SCAE certified baristas and roasters. It were strategic decisions not to open the shop in downtown area and not to roast beans until medium. They carefully prepare each cup of coffee, and they want to share they favorite coffee with every customer.
Relive 21, Gangnam-daero 102-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Gangnam
08:00-2300; Weekends 11:00-23:00
White western-style building
The space is mainly made in white color, the décor and the atmosphere makes a pretty nice impression. The sun from the window comes floating down, and the shadow of minimalist furniture creates a unique pattern. The place is simple: half-opened and factory-like design, concrete walls, white space with wooden furniture. The most impressive thing here is the glass wall, not only it lets the sunlight shines through, it also gives you the view from the top of a mountain.
EDIYA Coffee Lab 636, Nonhyeon-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Eonju
GANGNAM-GU 07:30-02:00, Sunday 07:30-00:00
Luxurious
dream coffee factory
In the fierce battle of South Korean coffee market in 2016, Ediya Coffee is one of the top five coffee shops, opened a roast factory concept store EDIYA Coffee Lab in April last year. This 2-level building with a total area of 1650 square meters is located in the well-off area of Gangnam-gu. Ediya Coffee Lab uses
the idea of coffee dream factory, it has a bar area, roasting area, raw beans storage area and cupping area, the concept store also offers limited special drinks. Strong industrial space design, luxurious roasting machine, huge open-bar and sets of coffee gears are ready to be used, this is definitely one of the best cafés you ever wanted to visit.
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The owner of Relieve started to do part-time job in a café while he was in college, then he became interested in coffee and he wanted to have his own café. So in January 2016, Relieve was established. The origin of its name “Relieve” means the relaxing experience while enjoying a cup of coffee. The owner named the raw beans “Stress”, so while you drink it, it is “Stress Relieve”. Relieve has become very popular since its opening a year ago. It has two stores, and total average amount of cups sold per day of these two stores together is almost thousand cups.
The number of coffee consumers in South Korea is huge: there is a coffee shop on average every 50 meters so the battle in coffee business is fierce. Nowadays, the coffee culture in South Korea is blooming everywhere: coffee shops stand on each corner, EDIYA Coffee Lab has a main theme and its own roasting. As coffee is influencing people’s life wave after wave, we can say without doubts, the third wave coffee revolution has already merged with this city. Visiting South Korea, you can see every shop has its own roasting machine and its own roasted beans, most of the beans were directly traded from the farm or bought from internationally famous retailer. Compared with the simplyoperated coffee shop, they call it “coffee factory running model”. Also, South Korea has the highest number of certified SCAE and Q-Graders, a lot of baristas are also good at integrating their coffee skills into the coffee market according to its needs, in order to provide balance in South Korean coffee market. Without doubts, South Korean market shows a rapid development, here people pay extreme attention to aesthetics and they also try to find it in the coffee industry.
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Cafe Around World
Littlepeople Coffee
Koffee Mameya 4-15-3 Jingu-mae Shibuya-ku,
Photography Sonia Cao (www.instagram.com/sscmot)
Tokyo, Japan
G-01, Avantas Residences 162, Jalan Klang Lama, 58200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Mon - Sun 10:00 - 18:00
+60 3-7971 9209
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@littlepeoplecoffee Mon - Thur 8:30 - 22:00, Fri - Sun 10:00am - 11:00pm, Tuesday closed
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Cafe Around World
Ob-La-Di
Aucuba Coffee 108 Bank Street South Melbourne, Melbourne, Australia
@AucubaCoffee
54 rue de Saintonge, Paris, France
Mon- Fri 7:00- 16:00,
@ObLaDiParis
Wed-Fri 08:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00
Sat- Sun 8:00-16:00
+61 3 9041 3904
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Drinks
Mesh old-fashioned Ingredients espresso..........................................................................2shot sugar.......................................................................................3g illyquore ................................................................1 bar spoon Lejay creme de cassis de dijon..................................1/2oz orange twist
Kim kihoon Bomb 1.
sugar 3g with illyquore 1 bar spoon into a rocks glass
Ingredients
2.
mixing glass filled with ice, espresso 2
vanila syrup......................................................... 10g
shot, Lejay creme de cassis de dijon1/2oz
espresso..............................................................1shot
and stir until cold
freshcream............................................................25g sugar........................................................................1.5g grapefruit peel
1.
vanila syrup 10g pour into a shot glass
2.
espresso 1shot
3.
freshcream 25g with sugar 1.5g shake and pour
4.
3.
strain into a rocks glass filled with ice
4.
flame and drop in the orange twist
1.
grapefruit twist and garnish
2.
3.
4.
About Café Mesh 1.
2.
3.
4.
Café Mesh, is not a big area, but it has everything you need inside. Less than 20 square meters of the store, there is a roasting studio, that provides around 5 kg of freshly roasted beans every day, and it is one of the lightest roasting cafés that exist, it was also awarded by COE in 2015 and 2016. The inside of the café is nice and warm, but it is a bit far from the center of the town. Since its opening in January 2015, it already has gained popularity among customers. The average amount of cups sold per day is over 100. Two owners, Kim Kee Hoon and Kim Hyeong Seok, are both SCAE certified baristas and roasters. It were strategic decisions not to open the shop in downtown area and not to roast beans until medium. They carefully prepare each cup of coffee, and they want to share they favorite coffee with every customer.
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Design simple” is about the materials like wooden table and mortar floor, which seem to be built with the same substance. Talking about design, we only used straight lines and no curves; most of the lines are horizontal and vertical. Also, keeping in mind traditional Japanese architecture, we used a perfect shape of a circle. Our logo means Tokyo Saryo, as I turned the Kanji characters into geometric design. As you can see all the lines are straight and horizontal or vertical.” “For Japanese people, green tea is seen as two different drinks: tea for ceremonies and bottled tea. People like green tea but they still do not quite understand it. One of the reasons of it is that nothing is suitable for witty modern Japanese culture. We wanted to change it; Sangenjaya is the best place to open our first store, ‘Jaya’ means teahouse so this place somehow has ‘tea roots’ and the atmosphere around the shop is really nice and cozy, it is kind of fusion between old and new, and I am not talking about its age only.” said Mikito.
WORLD’S FIRST HAND-DRIP
GREEN TEA SHOP
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okyo Saryo is a Japanese green tea brand established in 2016, offering the highest quality of sencha with brewing in the best methods, focusing on temperature and extraction rate, in other words it is the first brand store of “green brewing”. Hand-drip green tea shop was designed by LUCY ALTER DESIGN, a design duo, Satoshi Aoyagi and Mikito Tanimoto, based in Tokyo. They reinterpreted tea-ceremony room by omitting things and focusing on brewing the tea. Tokyo Saryo offers a tea tasting course: guests can get to compare two different types of green tea by first steeping(70 degrees ℃), second steeping(80 degrees ℃) of each and third steeping(80 degrees ℃) with roasted rice (Genmai-cha), 6 cups in total. As Mikito Tanimoto says: “We are very wary of using myopic Japanese motifs/shapes/patterns, because in this century people don’t use such things anymore. But it is important to make it simple, which is a better way to show Japanese design, so people can feel our culture and spiritually, not just see something material. That is why we needed to make things flat and simple at the point of human cognition, things are supposed to be simple in two ways: ‘look simple’ and ‘be structurally simple’. In my opinion, “being structurally
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Latte Art
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Lion King By Ray Chang
Turner Bird By DAISUKE TANAKA
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From Oracle coffee Taiwan Taiwan Latte Art championship 2016&2017 2nd place Thanks for you like.
From OSAKA,TOKYO Almond breeze latte art champion in TOKYO(2017) Streamer coffee company latte art throw down champion(2017)
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Cover Story
Let’s start with the old fashioned way :
BOOKS (You can find them in Taobao or Amazon)
Uncommon Grounds by Mark Pendergrast A lot of people like to start their day with a cup of coffee. But how many of us know where their coffee came from and what impact it has on the world? Uncommon Grounds tells you a story of coffee from A-Z, starting with its discovery and up to todays’ trends, including how your morning cup affects foreign policy. It does sound more than serious.
The World Atlas of Coffee: From Beans to Brewing by James Hoffman James Hoffman, the winner of WBC 2007, from London's Square Mile Coffee Roasters can tell you a lot about your favorite drink from his personal experience. The World Atlas of Coffee has everything you need to know about coffee industry; and just like any other good atlas it has maps and information of coffee growing countries as well as tips on how to prepare the best cup with different equipment. This book happens to be the beginning of my coffee journey and I would definitely recommend it to everyone.
PART 1
NEVER STOP LEARNING We all love coffee, don't we? According to the 67th National Coffee Drinking Trends Report made by the National Coffee Association in the US, between 2008 and 2016, consumption of gourmet coffee beverages tripled among 18–24 year olds from 13% to 36%, and more than doubled for those 25–39, from 19% to 41%. Home-prepared coffee is still the most popular one: In total, 81% of coffee drinkers prepared at least one cup of coffee at home everyday. And according to another study, ENERGY STAR Market & Industry Scoping Report on Coffee Makers, there is 2.6% annual growth rate in retail scene of coffee makers, that tells us that more and more young people tend to drink good coffee and the most popular place to do this is their houses as they are buying more and more coffee makers. Coffee makers are not something rare today, almost everyone has one at home and it seems so easy to manage; but there are lots of new techniques of preparing your favorite drink, that you might want to know. It doesn’t matter if you are a coffee world newbie or a professional barista, here are some ways to fall in love with coffee even more and, of course, get some insiders’ information.
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33 Cups of Coffee: Pocket Coffee Journal Well, 33 Cups of Coffee is not actually a book, it is a coffee journal to make notes while tasting coffee and easily recall a coffee’s flavor long after consumption. It is not only useful, as all memories tend to fade, but also eco-friendly- made with 100% recycled papers. We chose those three books because it is important and interesting to start with works that tell you everything about coffee like The World Atlas of Coffee: From Beans to Brewing and Uncommon Grounds and then to get started with 33 Cups of Coffee: Pocket Coffee Journal because it is important to compare coffees by yourself and make notes so you will not forget it.
ONLINE RESOURCE
Nowadays coffee is not just a drink, it is a culture, that unites a lot of people, simple example is newly formed SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) with more than 10000 members, well, of course they are professionals, but there are even more people involved in specialty coffee world if we count farmers, distributors, consumers and everyone interested. Asia is no exception here, as Vietnam, Thailand, China, Indonesia, Cambodia, Philippines and India are coffee growing countries. Moreover, Asia is one of the most important markets at the moment, especially China, as its economy continue to grow and, according to Goldman Sachs, real GDP growth in 2017 will be 6,5%; so consumers’ spending will also grow, what gives a lot of opportunities to coffee business. As economy continue to grow customers will demand higher quality of drinks, and that is why there will be a higher demand for qualified coffee professionals.
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Cover Story
If you are interested in a deeper knowledge of coffee, but don't know where to start, we are here to help you and provide with some online resources, as it is the easiest and fastest way to get some insiders’ information. Online courses are usually cheaper than the offline ones, moreover, e-learning usually let you learn on your own schedule and at your own pace, no need to take time off work or go far away and spend more money on airplanes and trains. Downsides of online learning depend only on your goal, so before starting your coffee studies we suggest you to set your goal and decide if you need a certificate, if yes, how you want to use it after, does it need to be international like SCA (SCAE and SCAA) etc..
PART 2
INTERMEDIATE
Coffee Business School of the Cascades
BACK TO SCHOOL
www.coffeebusinessschool.com As you can understand from the name of the school, its program is built around business education for new coffee entrepreneurs. And, of course, as no one wants to run a low-profit business, the program prepare you to build a successful company and teach A-Z of coffee management, but to better understand what coffee is about, Coffee Business School of the Cascades also provides you with videos of how to make a great cup and to do latte art. You can save all the videos and watch (or rewatch) it later or get back to them any time you like, as the website allows you to use all the materials for 2 years just for $199.
The American Barista & Coffee School www.onlinebaristatraining.com Online Barista Training by The American Barista & Coffee School has two types of memberships: Individual Barista and Coffee Retailer. The difference is that with the first one only you (individually) can access all the materials and training program for $49.95/3 months and $14.95/month after first 3 months (you can cancel anytime), which can be a great start in the coffee industry; for the business owners ABCS created Coffee Retailer Membership, it includes 15 employee accounts, 1 retailer account (business and management resources) and so on. You can learn more with this membership, that is why it is more expensive - $59.95/month (and cancel anytime). Both programs also provide a certificate of completion, which can be a nice asset.
Coffee Courses www.coffeecourses.com With a name as simple as it can be, Coffee Courses offer everyone interested in coffee different kind of online coffee courses, delivering programs in the art and science of coffee tasting, roasting, quality management, green coffee production, brewing and enjoying coffee. Prices for individual programs are ranging from $0 to $299.95 or you can always get Coffee Pro Membership for $499.95 for the first year (annual renewal $149.95), for this amount of money you can get all of the courses starting with Origins of Coffee course and ending with how to drink coffee.
If e-learning is still not enough and you are ready to save the date and book your flight (or a train) to go on a coffee adventure, we are happy to help you in your travel. Here are some coffee schools around the world, where you will not only study hard but also feel local coffee vibe and meet professionals from all around the world, what are actually important assets of offline education. So pack your bags and choose your direction, because there are plenty of them.
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If you look around you will notice that specialty coffee shops are booming nowadays, clearly they also have students as employees, but let’s face the fact: you cannot build a business without qualified staff. You and I might be able to say what we like about coffee, but could we say more, by identifying everything that makes a cup good or bad? And that precious practical knowledge is what we can gain in schools all around the world, we just need to chose suitable program. Barista and Roaster Compensation Report made by SCAA in 2014 one more time proved that education helps people make their lives better (and it is still so in 2017). Salary survey shows that there is a strong link between certification and better pay; certified barista earns $240 more per year compared to a non-certified one, certified roasters have a similar success to share, which is earning 6% more on average that non-certified counterparts. There also exists a strong correlation between an education level and career opportunities, such as management and training positions. In order to analyze the education market, we chose 5 coffee schools from different parts of the world and talked to them about their experience. Noticing the importance of being a part of international acknowledged coffee education system, most schools we interviewed offer all (in general) of the SCAE/SCA. Coffee Diploma System modules (Barista Skills, Brewing, Green Coffee, Roasting, and Sensory Skills). However, due to different background, environment and consumers’ demand, their specialization also differs.
Australia and New Zealand In Australia and New Zealand, coffee has always been a part of leisure time and relaxed beach-centric lifestyle, so people are expecting better quality drinks, which create a demand for more qualified baristas. “We trained over 400 people last year, and approximately 95% of the students learnt Barista skills,” said Simon James from Genovese Coffee, a 3rd generation family business in Melbourne. Thus, one of the most popular courses in Australia is basic barista skills, also there is a growing demand for SCAE/SCAA training programs, learning coffee roasting and sensory skills, brewing courses are also popular due to the growth of brewed coffee market. What’s more, Genovese Coffee is also the only facility offering certified training for all aspects of the coffee industry in Australia.
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Australia New Zealand
Cover Story
Other recommendation Australian Coffee School(Australia), Australian Coffee School (Auckland, New Zealand)
“Most of our students come from our accounts in Melbourne. An increasing number of general public enrollments come from around Australia and Asia. We limit class numbers to 4 - 6, to ensure quality training for our students. Most of our Barista Fundamentals classes are full, weeks in advance. Demand for these classes has more than doubled over the last 5 years,“ says Simon James. According to a research made by Square, 43% of Australians chose a latte when it comes to ordering drinks at cafes, 20% order flat whites, 12% take cappuccinos, 5% prefer long blacks and 4% are for espresso lovers; the remaining 16% are for other beverages. Let’s just think about it – 84% prefer coffee to any other drink; without any doubt, we can call Australia a continent of coffee lovers, which brings a demand for higher quality more creative coffee and, of course, coffee education. “However, the industry has struggled to keep up with this demand, so training is often conducted with large class sizes in poor facilities, and the training is kept very brief, often by trainers who have little or no qualification; this has also led to an expectation that training is cheap and simple, and will be provided free of charge by employers, or very cheaply at small educational companies,” says Simon James.
North America
North America
Talking about American coffee culture, first what comes to anyone’s mind is, of course, Starbucks, no one denies that it has helped popularize coffee, especially in new markets. But American contemporary coffee culture is more than just Starbucks; with the rise of third wave people are more aware of coffee origins and what impact can bring their choice, trying to change the perception of coffee from ‘energy boost while working’ to ‘new unique experience’. According to “RTD Coffee in Canada” research made by Euromonitor International, there is a strong growth of the coffee category in Canada over the past 5-6 years due to rising consumer demand for authentic, unique experiences from beverage consumption, particularly among the younger generation, as well as market development by leading brands, which made coffee retail sales jump to 23% in volume terms and 26% in current value terms in 2016. Moreover, according to the latest report from the 2016 NCDT, “In USA, daily consumption of espresso-based beverages has nearly tripled since 2008; between 2008 and 2016, consumption of gourmet coffee beverages jumped from 13% to 36% among 18-24 year old, and from 19% to 41% for those 25-39; for espresso-based beverages alone, the jump become 9% to 22% for the 18-24 group and 8% to 29% for those 25-39”. As there is new consumers group, marketers need to know how to manage the business when consumers’ demands have changed. American younger audience have no lack of knowledge nowadays as this knowledge is easy to get with just one click, as a result they are also more open to any innovations in the coffee market. American Barista & Coffee School was the first company and still the only company to focus 100% on Coffee Business and entrepreneurial training in Portland, USA. They offer a full immersion learning environment, focused
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on Business Start Up for coffee roasters and retailers, as well as professional development for baristas and coffee enthusiasts. Roughly 90% of their students are traveling from around the US and the globe. Their most popular course “5 or 6 Day Business and Barista Workshop” is jam packed with comprehensive coffee education as well as professional development in fine tuning business skills. Comparing to other education system, American Barista & Coffee School focus more on empowering the coffee bar owners, and the small businesses roasting and serving coffee. “I would say one change from 5 years ago is that we are seeing more and more entrepreneurs interested in also starting a micro-roaster alongside a retail coffee bar, or we see students opening their minds to developing a more creative concept that fits their local market which may include serving more than just coffee and pastries,” said Matt Milletto, Vice President and Partner of the school. “Understanding the consumer and trends in our industry is a big part of what shapes our curriculum month to month. The evolution of consumer behavior is what every coffee professional needs to understand and be aware of, and we should embrace and help drive the market locally based on our end consumers wants and needs.”
Other recommendation Canadian Barista & Coffee Academy (Vancouver and Toronto, Canada), Boot Coffee School (San Rafael, California)
Europe NO.1
NO. 2
NO.3
NO.4
NO.5
Areas
European Union
United States
Japan
Canada
Russia
Thousand 60-Kg Bags
44,500
25,000
4,400
4,375
NO.
(2015/16)
8,325
Source: Foreign Agricultural Service/USDA Office of Global Analysis
We all know that fashion for coffee started in Europe; while nowadays Europe is one of the biggest importer of coffee beans. According to ‘Europe Coffee Market - Growth, Trends and Forecast’ made by Mordor Intelligence, two main suppliers of Europe are Brazil and Vietnam, shipping around 946,000 and 720,000 tons of coffee beans and Italy has one of the largest share of coffee imports in Europe. That is not a surprise, as Italy is well known for its caffeinated drinks, which are classics of coffee culture. European specialty coffee market is not exactly booming at the moment, but it is easy to understand, as Europeans are more traditional in this sense and tend to choose classics over trendy drinks. As Carlo Odello, the founder of Italian Barista School (Ibs), said, “The idea of espresso was born in Italy and it is still very well rooted in our culture. We do not say ‘espresso’, we just say ‘coffee’. ” So the school runs a complete system which is focused on true Italian flavor, delivering courses like Great Italian Espresso & Cappuccino, Italian Coffee Art and One-to-One Italian Barista Training. Ibs is based in Italy but with branches in, Korea, Taiwan and China and working directly in other countries such as Thailand, Germany, Spain, France. They enrolled hundreds of students and are aiming at a consistent growth, “Abroad consumers do play a role in shaping the offer and thus the training. This is not actually happening in Italy where consumers are much more traditional and less demanding,” says Carlo Odello. Coffee education in more traditional markets, such as the Mediterranean, is developing slower than in new markets. That is why Europe is a perfect place to master the art of an authentic espresso, latte or cappuccino. Although there is a big number of new trainers entering the market and, of course, not each and every of them is skilled enough to provide a professional coffee education. “I always suggest students not only to get information on the organization but on the specific trainer holding the courses inside that organization.” concluded by Carlo Odello.
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Europe
Other recommendation Università del Caffè (Trieste, Italy), CoffeeMind (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Cover Story
China China
Over the past five years, rising globalization has brought new opportunities to the emerging markets like China. Among the fastest growing industries is the coffee business. Western-style coffee has been met with the interest in these markets and it is fueling the sector, particularly among younger consumers who are influenced by international big branded chains. Education and continuing innovation are important in the area in order for growth to be sustainable. Many roasters and cafes here are helping their local consumers to become more aware and accepting by introducing classes and programs from SCAA and SCAE, as well as educational workshops and coffee tastings. Kelly Chan, General Secretary from Crema Coffee Training Centre, explained that development of coffee scene caused a large change in quality of coffee shops. Their steady development and growth of consumer groups made professional baristas face a big flourishing market. She also acknowledged that now mass market is shaping not only retail scene, as we already know, but also training courses. Crema Coffee Training Centre was established on 2005 and has training centers in Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen (having 50000 students enrolled). IIAC and Italian Barista School ( IBS ) also set up their branches here.People from Singapore, Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Ukraine, Indonesia and other countries come to Crema to widen their knowledge on coffee. And as a result, over the last five years the total number of students increased by 70%. The “General Program” is the most popular course among students, which is characterized by a comprehensive knowledge, long-term training and practice, combined with effective assessment and summary, as well as work and internship opportunities in coffee shop. “The hardest thing about coffee education in China is to recruit new students,” says Kelly Chan. After 13 years in business Crema Training Center became very well known in coffee education sphere so students a lot of professionals recommend to start coffee education here. In addition, Crema provides students with detailed and deep knowledge. Dean of Bloom Coffee College (Beijing, China), Qi Ming, told us that international certificate courses (SCAA/SCAE) are getting more popular, as coffee professionals around Asia tend to need deeper and wider knowledge. So, it is no surprise as Bloom Coffee College is the first schools to provide SCA training courses. Other classes such as C01 Barista Almighty Classroom is also welcomed by students, which provides comprehensive training to newcomers of the industry, thus, the school has already enrolled more than 10 000 students. Over the last 5 years Bloom Coffee College has trained around 20 000 students, among which are mostly 22-35 year-old people. “Talking about changes in Chinese coffee education, we should notice that the world market now is more focused on individual consumption that is also true for coffee industry in almost every country, that is why it is obvious that in the future we will se ore and more new equipment, technologies and businesses,” said Qi Ming.
As we think where to go to study, we need to notice the differences in coffee cultures around the world. Every country and region is different in its own unique way due to different factors, and we need to pay attention on every advantage and disadvantage that might affect our education. We need to stay focused on what we want to gain from the program and how it is supposed to help us. Almost every coffee school suggests universal Barista training and SCAA/SCAE courses, as people want to know more about coffee and how to make it (not only professionals), but we need to pay attention at regional difficulties such as slow market development or even comparably recent market development etc.. Talking to 5 representatives of coffee schools from different parts of the world, we can conclude common trends in coffee education, which are growing quantity of coffee schools and higher importance of understanding consumer behavior and including it into the courses. It is a fact that coffee education is now an imperative part of being a success coffee industry professional, as long as we have a desire to never stop growing and develop our community coffee education will continue to get better and evolve.
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Getting physical: practical barista knowledge One more way of entering the industry and becoming a barista is getting a job in a coffee shop, where you will also gain practical knowledge and some salary as a bonus. Unfortunately, now less and less coffee shops hire inexperienced baristas, so they need to have basic coffee knowledge, understand café operations and have related working experience. On the other hand, big café chains have lower requirements and can provide a newcomer a great training. Big brand’s training approximately takes about one month (depending on student’s learning time and store operations, of course) and includes next steps:
Practice Let’s take Starbucks as an example – learning theory and practicing time for Starbucks newcomers is only 1 month, which includes several modules to introduce a person to coffee step by step; the training is provided one-on-one with a highly experienced and certified by the company trainer-barista. After each step of training, this barista will give a feedback according to newcomer’s results in theory and practice. Training includes:
Orientation Welcoming of a new barista and introducing him/her to the whole coffee shop team. Being a barista requires you to be independent but at the same time a team player, so it is important to make newcomers feel like a part of the team so they feel much more comfortable in a new company. Ground Rule Almost every coffee shop has its own basic operating standards and drinks recipes, and every each of them sets their own style and pace of work. Even though coffee shops usually give costumers a very personal experience, but they are more focused on sustainability of their service and coffee brand quality. That is why, no matter if a new barista has a related work experience, big chain companies will still train him/her according to the company’s standards
Basic knowledge (coffee history, production areas, processing types, flavor description etc.); Espresso machine know-how, it includes a manual on how to daily maintain and operate the machine and how to make a good espresso or any other drink from a menu. In addition to coffee-based drinks, the
Service training Barista is a service sector job; every day they contact with all kinds of people and guests, that is why being a barista in any coffee shop will do a great job and prepare you for being great at your job, it is just a matter of time and practice.
barista will also learn to make other types of drinks, e.g. ice drinks. Most coffee shops now offer filter coffee so it is also important for a barista to know how to use different coffee equipment and brew differently. The most important part of training is how
Selling skills In most of the coffee shops (especially in chains) barista also takes care of selling a coffee to a customer, therefore except for knowing how to make a cup of coffee, baristas should gain basic selling and marketing knowledge to be able to sell it.
to keep a bar clean, the barista has to know how to maintain a bar clean and pay high attention to hygene.
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Cover Story
CTI: How and why WBC was created? And how has it changed during these years till now? SBG: It started as an idea of a man called Alf Kramer in Norway. He was
To b e t te r u nde r s t a nd what role competitions play
Advanced COFFEE COMPETITIONS THE PATH TO BIGGER OPPORTUNITIES Being a barista, making and serving your morning low-fat cappuccino or latte haven’t always been taken seriously; barista is usually seen as a part-time job while studying in university. Unfortunately, many people do not realize how exciting and big can be the industry. As many baristas are not just serving coffee, they choose to improve their skills and roasters, trainers, managers in coffee business, judges, Q-graders or even to go and compete for the Best Barista title. A coffee competition can really start a career: almost every famous coffee person is a champion of WCE, as the event gives you the chance and the audience. Although, the intensity of competition is not for everyone, it requires constant practice and improvement until every movement becomes a muscle memory. And there are competitions such as World Barista Championship, World Coffee in Good Spirit, World Latte Art, World Brewers Cup, World Cup Tasters and World Roasters, so you can imagine how highly educated a barista should be. In the World Barista Championships, competitors must provide four espressos, four milk beverages, and four “signature” coffees, which are their own creations. Baristas will plan every single step and detail of the 15-minute process in advance: everything from cups to aprons and music. And almost every year, rules are changed to make them even more objective.
in coffee scene we decided to talk with Sonja Björk Grant, who is one of co-founders and Head Judges of WCE and SCAE authorized coffee trainer, she is also a barista, roaster and barista trainer, working in specialty coffee for 22 years now. With a l l t h at ex p e r i e nce b e h i nd her, we are eager to hear her thoughts on the championships.
CTI: So what’s a head judge to do and how does he/she judge?
SBG: Head judge is a kind of a type of a manager. He makes sure that everybody is playing by the WCE rule book. That means that the organizers need to run the championship in a professional and sanctioned way, the judges need to follow the rules while judging and the baristas have to honor the rules in their performance. So the Head Judge combines all of these responsibilities. He is the leader of the judges’ team and makes the final decision if there is a debate and a grey area in the rules, but he does not give scores. CTI: How score sheets for Barista Championship are built up?
Q&A
PART 3
CTI: Coffee T&I Magazine SBG: Sonja Björk Grant
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involved with starting up the SCAE and at that time he was working with a creative team of people that took his idea and made it into reality. It was Tone Elin Liavaag and Willy Hansen, who worded actively to run the first national barista championship in Norway, this was back in 1998-1999. When I met Tone and Willy I was sure that this would be an interesting championship to be a part of and from that moment there was no turning back, we held the first World Barista Championship at SCAE show in Monte Carlo the year 2000. It has changed a lot over the years: both focus of the technical side of making espresso drinks and the sensory side. In the beginning all participants had dark espresso blends and no one had single origin. But over the years the coffee knowledge behind each participant has got amazingly professional. In the past all blends were roasted by big roasteries and baristas displayed the packages on the judges table so they could read what coffee was in the blend. But over the years the package’s information changed into pure coffee knowledge, transparency, social awareness and respect for ‘from seed to cup’.
SBG: There are two different score sheets. One is with focus on technical skills and workflow of the participants and the other is the sensory experience of the espresso drinks, presentation and service skills of the participants. CTI: What are the steps? What competitors need to provide? SBG: The participants need to be professional baristas with good technical skills, good coffee knowledge and service, to be able to create an inspiring coffee experience in 15 minutes. CTI: In your opinion, what is the most important part in the competition? SBG: This is a very difficult question and there is no simple answer. But one thing that I like the most is about the championships is to follow the participants through their journey of learning and growing professionally. I like it when I see young baristas get more confident but humble at the same time and when they represent their country their passion shines through with honor and pride. I know it is a bit cheesy, but I have seen it so many times happening. The championships can change baristas’ life if they want to, that is a simple fact.
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Cover Story CTI: How do you think, is it better to stick to coffee classics while competing or try to create something new and unexpected?
PART 4
SBG: Hmmm…it all depends on the participant. The rules are open for creativity and stretching but all actions on stage needs to be related to the cup quality. CTI: How do you think, what does the championship teach a barista?
SCA
UNIFIED BUT NOT UNIFORMED
SBG: The championships opens mind of everybody who are involved, not only baristas but roasters, growers, marketing people, consumers and all other coffee lovers. The possibilities are endless when the mind is open. One of the most valuable lessons is discipline and respect. Many baristas have made business out of their success in the championships. Many baristas have open roasteries, coffee shops or other companies related to coffee. Championships help to point out our interests in the coffee industry and direct us to the right path that suits each and every barista. Some baristas stay in the industry, others leave but with a great knowledge of quality cup of coffee – and they turn into our best consumers. CTI: How and why rules change every year?
Erna Knutsen in the Tea and Coffee Trade Journal first used the term “specialty coffee” in 1974. But why exactly it is special? Specialty coffee is not just a big name; this coffee has been grown at the perfect altitude, in the best soil, and then picked at just the correct season and the right time. It is generally more taken care of, that is also the reason for a higher price.
Of course, as any other industry, this flourishing specialty coffee business had to create associations to regulate and promote itself. As everyone knows the two associations, SCAA and SCAE, are the first choice for professional barista education. Even though in January 2017 they announced their unification SCA, but in the nearest future they will still operate the way we all know them.
SCAA was established in 1982 to discuss issues and set quality standards for the specialty coffee trade. SCAA played an important role in developing specialty coffee industry, educating, training and delivering business services to members in over than 40 countries. We can also say that wide popularization of specialty coffee has its roots in America.
Europe, on the other hand, also had specialty coffee organization, but a younger one. SCAE was formed in London on the June 5th, 1998, accepting new trend from across the Atlantic. Currently SCAE has local chapters in more than 30 European countries, as well as Singapore and Korea.
CTI: How do you think, how are rules going to change in the nearest future?
SBG: If I could see into the future, there would not be fun to live from day to day and enjoy the present, that is why it is exciting to be a part of and to see how the championships will change in the near future. CTI: What advice would you give to coffee competitions newcomers?
SBG: The championships (World Barista Championship, World Coffee in Good Spirit, World L atte Art, World Brewers Cup, World C u p Ta s te r s , Wo rld Ro a s te r s ) a re a lways i n deve lo p m e n t a n d eve r y ye a r c o m m i t te e s o f profe s s ion a l s i n e ach ch a m pion sh i p mee t to review the rules. The championships, trends a nd s t a nd a rd s a re i n co n s t a nt deve lop me nt , which makes the championships so interesting and challenging.
S B G : To k n ow t h e r u le s by t h e h e a r t , b e open minded and brave, practice-practice-practice, have as much fun as possible on the journey to the championship.
Coffee industry is in constant development while industry professionals also have a lot to learn. Competitions give chances to participants not only to challenge themselves, but also to gain opportunities, knowledge and experience, that they are not able to gain anywhere else. Moreover, WBC is the world platform that gives participants cultural exchange opportunities and better understanding of the world’s top technologies. Since the beginning of WBC the rules have been changed 8 times, starting in 2009, which is caused by ongoing changes in market’s demands, to make competitions more challenging and exciting, which also means that people involved baristas and judges need to keep up to date all the time. But most important is that you are not competing with other people there, but with yourself, by learning, practicing and showing your best. As WBC goes hand in hand with third wave of coffee, we can also consider it as a training tool and part of educational process. Coffee education is an important asset for the whole industry, as it does not only train professionals to work with coffee, but also to pass their knowledge to customers. Probably the most important reason for learning is growing consumer’s demand, as in Digital Age any knowledge is extremely available via the Internet, that is why professionals always need to be one step ahead. One more very important part of coffee culture is customer service, which is crucial, as people tend to spend a lot of time in coffee shops and expect special treatment. Last year Bloomberg reported that coffee has reached its peak in China, Japan and India, showing new open markets for coffee itself and coffee education. And in fact, we see more and more cafés and coffee schools opening in Asia, that is why coffee education in new markets is the only way to develop the industry, keep it sustainable and make your customers aware of what exactly you do.
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Specialization The two organizations delivered a big variety of educational courses from roasting to running a coffee shop; also together they founded World Coffee Events (WCE), which brings not only education but also opportunities to emerging talents. They also brought coffee education not only to America and Europe, but also to Asia, Australia, New Zealand and even Africa.
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Cover Story
BARISTA FOUNDATIONS PATHWAY OF LEVEL 1 LEVEL 2
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New logo
HOURS
Embodies SCA core proposition,
COFFEE
FOUNDATIONS OF COFFEE
COFFEE BUYER PATHWAY LEVEL 1
ROASTER PATHWAY LEVEL 1
LEVEL 2
COFFEE TASTER PATHWAY LEVEL 1
“SCAE Coffee Diploma System started in June 2011, by the end of 2016 we delivered over 90,000 certificates, with the last year an average of 2,500 certificates per month in around 90 countries in the world,” said Annemarie Tiemes, SCAE’s Education Field Manager and World Competitions Judge. Almost every coffee school provides SCAA/SCAE training programs, which also unites professionals into a bigger coffee community and letting customers know more about their favorite drink, its history, people who are behind and the impact they make by choosing specialty coffee. The names of two associations sound similar (except for last A- and E- parts) and indeed both offer internationally recognized coffee certifications, have similar vision, but still have some differences.
Specialization SCAA
SCAE Green Coffee
Coffee Buyer
Sensory Skills
Coffee Taster
Roasting
Roasting
Brewing
in coffee foundation module, not separate
Barista Skills
Barista
Except for being American-based (and not European), SCAA has its system of Pathways, those courses can be taken individually and can be counted in different courses once finished: for example, CP205 Green Coffee Buying Essentials, is required in both the Coffee Buyer Pathway and the Roaster Level 1 Pathway. So this course will be counted once finished for any path you choose, even if you change your decision from being a roaster to a coffee buyer. On the other hand, SCAE courses cannot be taken individually and are given only in modules (Level: Foundation, Intermediate and Professional), these courses are based on subject matter and not on career choice like SCAA. Despite of all the differences these two largest coffee bureaucracies in the world decided to join forces, bringing together 4,400 members from SCAE with SCAA’s nearly 5000 members. Thus, some 10,000 coffee professionals around the world are directly impacted by the unification and there are of course a lot of questions around newly formed SCA (Special Coffee Association).
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and mission within the specialty
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coffee industry: giving a voice
HOURS
to the specialty coffee world. MASTERY DIPLOMA
55 HOURS
60 HOURS
SCAA As two main educational structures SCAA and SCAE united in one SCA, we decided to talk more with Annemarie Tiemes about the importance of education. She believes that in order to improve quality and create a healthy coffee chain we need to keep on doing research and educate people, a lot is being done and all materials ends up in education. “SCAE has found it always important that cultural differences should be taken into account,” Annemarie added, “while the basics are the same, for instance the correct temperature range of a cappuccino is quite broad.” As example we can take Mediterranean Sea and Eastern Europe where cezve or ibrik coffee are quite popular, there it would be taken into the Brewing courses. Moreover, “In Asia the teacher is treated with more respect, while for instance Europeans more tend to discuss and challenge. It is possible though that for the future we will be looking at developing business modules. Consumer behavior is though taken into account into our research projects,” shares Annemarie Tiemes.
1+1>2
Difference in SCAA and SCAE courses
SCAE
LEVEL 2
the values that drive behavior
What real benefits will each member get from this new organization? What about even bigger bureaucracy, will it slow down the process of unification? Members of the world’s two largest coffee trade organizations—SCAA and SCAE, still have their differences, how should they manage it? What about members who do not welcome unification, what options they have? In seeking of answers we decided to interview SCA representatives and get more specific answers. Unification brings a lot of questions, but what we know for sure is that newly-formed SCA will work on united educational system, which is great news by itself, only it will happen in 3 years (at least). The system should bring united standards for education, European & US balance, wider coffee knowledge and better intercultural communication. As all members of SCAA and SCAE have already voted and we have a new united but not unified organization, SCA; all we can do is wait and see what will happen next as SCA promises that changes will not happen overnight so we will still have time to get used to the new order of things. Just like what Annemarie Tiemes said, “Coffee education and certification is definitely taken more seriously, so much more resources can be available for everyone now and the Internet makes knowledge and products accessible to nearly the whole world. And it is only up to each of us to make this change for the better and use these global opportunities to the fullest, it is an exiting world to live in.”
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And the pronunciation of the logo is “Schwa”.
SWEET FEASTIVAL SWEET
SIGEP2017 EXHIBITS S U C C E S S F U L L Y
T O O K
P L A C E
Between January 21st and 25th 2017, the once a year SIGEP2017 (artisan gelato, pastry, bakery, coffee shows) and AB Tech Expo took place in Rimini, Italy. This so-called world biggest artisan gelato show has been successfully held for 38 times, it mainly shows the artistic skills of the European pastry chefs, also strengthening its position in the world’s desserts and bakery industries. This year’s expo attracted total of 208,472 trade visitors, among them 41,827 foreign attendees from 170 countries, compare to last year, the number has increased 29%. This year, the total space area of the exhibition in Rimini was 118,000 square meters and 1,250 companies were involved. The exhibition was divided into four sections including artisan gelato, coffee, bakery and chocolate, also over 800 different events and competitions took place there during the expo. This sweet feast surely made participants’ and visitors’ senses of vision, taste, hearing and touch work all together.
Scan for more videos
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Trade Show During the expo every day at 12:30 there were held gelato lessons in Italian and English, where gelato experts talked about the basics of gelato and how to identify them. According to data, chocolate gelato can have a very big flavor spectrum as there are about 600 flavor substances in cocoa: various production areas and different roasting degrees of cocoa beans can affect the flavor of the chocolate gelato differently. During the one-hour session, the participants and the teachers tested three gelatos, judging their appearances, texture and flavors. It was like tasting single origin coffee; although the recipes are the same, the differences of the basic materials will definitely affect the final products. Besides the teaching part, CAPIGIANI also brought some crossover catering methods:
FABBRI Since we came to this world’s biggest artisan gelato show, how can we miss gelato, the quintessence of Italy? The history of ice cream goes back to the ancient Mesopotamian culture recorded 14,000 years ago, but the renaissance of Italian gelato happened in Florence, Italy back in sixteen century, it was led by Cosimo Ruggeri and Caterina De Medici. In ancient China, Book of Poetry and Poetry of the South also had an early record of ice drinks. At this year’s SIGEP show, today’s gelato culture is more like a kind of food art.Different kinds of dazzling gelato are made with fresh ingredients, the amount of fat and sugar is less than in traditional ice cream, also less air volume makes the texture much creamier and lighter. Let’s take a closer look at gelato from the perspective of several special booths.
1
The brand new IdeaTre system can
store two cold gelatos and hot sauces at the same time. The whole system is assembled with four vertical cylinders. Each cylinder can either heat to 105 degrees Celsius or drop to -15 degrees Celsius within couple of minutes.It can produce around 10 to 130 kg per hour. This can help to satisfy demands from hotels, din-
ers and retailers.
2
Automat from CAPIGIANI
FABBRI’s almost thousands of square meters booth was divided into desserts, bar, gelato, soft ice and brand history areas. This family brand, founded in 1905, has outstanding achievements in working with organic materials. This time, FABBRI is back to the top again with its creative methods. For people working in gelato business, they brought a new series called “Simplè Gold”, it is combined with the world five most favorite flavors. Besides, there are some other unique flavors, such as a new ginseng coffee flavor, 100% dark chocolate, fresh antioxidant black currant, delicious lemon cookie, bubble gum and the genuine 100% Italian honey “Polly” flavors. Marshmallow flavor gelato in pink and blue colors brings back our childhood memories; desserts specially made for vegetarians were also very popular, including vegetarian gelato and sponge cake and piecrust. Moreover, the classic aperitif Marendry was re-decorated along with several new products.
is a combination of coffee and gelato machines, it can make a fresh espresso gelato within a couple of minutes.
GELATO
3
Combining gelato with pizza
stores: during the non-dining time, the diner can make gelato pizza desserts, in order to attract more customers.
CAPIGIANI This year is also CAPIGIANI’s 70th anniversary. Famous for its gelato machines, the brandhad brought a series of events this year, from the free lessons of CAPIGIANI Gelato University to the live cooking shows with chefs, also announcements of new books written by Donata Panciera, Luciana Polliotti and Antonella Bondi.
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Trade Show
Pa s try W o rl d Cup
PreGel Italian famous raw material brand PerGel was celebrating its 50th birthday this year. Its huge stand was divided into desserts and pastry, coffee and wine, soft ice and gelato areas. Every one and half hour, the head chef and a bartender of PreGel would take turn to perform exciting shows.
COMPETITION
This was a competition that gathered participants from India, Singapore, France, Russia, The Philippines, Italy, Boronia, Mexico and Japan. Dessert and gelato media and critics from Thailand, US, Australia, UK, etc. together formed into live judging committee, the chief editor of Coffee t&i, Sam, was also honored to be the representative of Southeast Asia among the judges. After several rounds, finally, Japan came to the top with its outstanding showpiece.
IFI
Gelato World Tour German Challenge Founded in 2013, the competition welcomed 62 German gelato artisans participating in this event created back in 2013. The two artisans were there to get the entrance tickets for their Berlin stop of the Gelato World Tour. The players must work together to create a gelato and present its flavor to the judges, and let the judges to decide.
Using white as the main color, the booth of IFI seems more like a futuristic world. Pop App equipment, at the corner of the booth, is a new compact workbench developed by IFI can produce, store and supply a restaurant or a coffee bar with gelato. It doesn’t need a lot of space, and it can take gelato to any possible place.
COFFEE
This year, SIGEP added big area to display coffee, the name on the expo also had coffee in it. It surely states the influence of coffee worldwide. WBC Italy also took place during the expo; you can check more “competitions” section for more information.
Nuova Simonelli - Nuova Simonelli’s exhibit was like a coffee station at home.
ISA announced a futuristic gelato storing egg.
Besides the described above stands and competitions[There is no info on competitions above, only about booths.], there were also some new things to try at the show: salty and alcohol flavor gelato from Babbi, CAPRESE flavor gelato from MEC3, virtual cookie contest and mini gelato sessions, exciting shows from COMPRITAL, differently shaped desserts and some other products related to gelato. It was still very memorable despite the fact that the expo only took place for five days.
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WEGA - WEGA hottest machine “MyConcept”, touchscreen + Wi-Fi control+100% customized setting +eco technology= the unique smart coffee machine, it is just like a smartphone. It can make over 20 combined menu, each brewer can customize the menu individually in order to offer different flavors of coffee.
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Trade Show
HAUSBRANDT - Hausbrandt stand amazed everyone with Italian bartenders mixing coffee with wine and making a delicious creative drink with few simple steps. This kind of cocktails have been very popular in Italian
Xelecto - The visual impression of Xelecto’s booth was very strong, this capsule coffee system from Italy can offer espresso of different flavors, also it goes with specially made handle and tamper, this system can be used in
FrankeA1000 can make coffee with milk or soymilk at the same time, it also can store up to 6 different syrups.
Corrado Facco, CEO of IEG, gave his own opinion on this expo: “To IEG, 2017 is a year to focus on the essence of Italian production business, we want to push forward two of our most advanced productions, handmade pastries and jewelry productions.” The five-day expo showed the world unique Italian gelato culture, this treasure of Italy is not only the specialty of dessert, but also a glamorous feature in this society. Whether gelato is combined with fashion or lifestyle, its numerous flavors and displays can always be an eye-catcher. With more and more people getting involved, it certainly indicates the handmade pastry business in Italy has a bright future.
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who to follow
Brewers
bluepenguincoffee
MPLS Pop-Up Pour Over Bar Locally Sourced Hand Crafted Drinks Shop Blue Penguin Online.
ekasuryadichandra
zacharyakelley
Manual Brew Coffee Enthusiast.
Home brewer enthusiast: my journey in learning specialty coffee.
Cafe Show Vietnam 2017 Education
bettrbarista
coffeemindacademy
Changing lives through coffee. Pro coffee education & certification, micro-roastery, mobile coffee/event services & consultancy.
CoffeeMind is a Danish company, owned by Morten Münchow, offering various courses within the coffee industry.
March 2-4, 2017, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
brandywinecoffeeroasters
Coffee Roasters with very nice packages| Wilmington, Delaware.
precisioncoffee
brewmethods
Roasters
Exploring Coffee Brew Methods.
Roaster from Perth Western Australia showing his coffee adventures.
Vietnam National Barista Championship 1st Tran Que Han 2nd Place Ta Thuy Linh
Beans
socraticcoffee
Coffee/research professionals performing self-funded coffee experiments to provide open & honest objective data & analysis.
baristaschool
American Barista&Coffee School.
cafeimports
Independent importer & developer of some of the best green coffees in the world.
belcogreenco
A green coffee importer located in Bordeaux, France, and coffee just like wine, is an art that is accomplished with passion.
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3rd Place Ho Duong Quang Minh
vagabondcoffeeroasters
Speciality coffees from around the world in the pursuit of quality and consistency.
4th Place Quach Thi Thanh Huong 5th Place Nguyen Quynh Nhat Khanh 6th Place Tran Nguyen Dang Khoa
The 2nd edition of Vietnam International Cafe Show, one of the brand exhibition of Cafe Show, concluded in great success. A total of 19,000 trade and public visitors packed the exhibition hall at Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center in Ho Chi Minh City over three days from 2 to 4 March 2017, hosted by Exporum Inc. the organizer of the Seoul International Cafe Show since 2002. In this year, the 2nd Vietnam Cafe Show attracted 100 Exhibitors from 10 countries and functioned as a multiplatform for coffee, tea, beverage, bakery, raw material, machine and equipment, dessert, cafe interior and franchise and start-up businesses. Above this, various special events could be found during the exhibition period. “Cherry’s Choice” was the place where you can find the highlighted exhibit items of the year . “Coffee Training Station” was the various levels of lecture given by professional barista. At “Sweet Class”, trendy recipe for dessert, bakery and beverage were demonstrated for the public . Furthermore, at the new events of this year , New Year’s Crop Celebration, visitors had a chance to try the taste of high quality coffee harvested last season in Vietnam. And “A cup of the world”, where visitors could taste the best coffee from famous coffee producing countries, for example, Colombia, Peru, Mexico and so on. Following this year, the Vietnam Int'l Cafe Show 2018 will be held on 3 to 5 of May, 2018 at Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center in Ho Chi Minh City. The organizer, Exporum Inc. has made great effort to hold the global brand of Cafe Show successfully - Cafe Show Beijing on July, Cafe Show Shanghai on October and Cafe Show Seoul in every November .
mycoffeeplanet
Born in Arabia. Our goal is to help more people experience the finest global Arabica coffee.
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Trade Show
Food&HotelVietnam2017
25 to 27 April 2017, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Thaifex2017
31 May to 4 June 2017, Bangkok, Thailand The 2017 THAIFEX – World of Food Asia, is set to be bigger and better than its previous edition, with attendance of: at least 2,000 exhibitors (↑11%), over 40 countries representation (↑48%) and more than 45,000 industry professionals (↑18%). The five-day event, modeled after the world’s largest and renowned F&B trade show, Anuga, looks to bring visitors up-to-date on the latest happenings in the food and beverage industry. To be held at Bangkok’s IMPACT Exhibition and Convention Centre from 31 May to 4 June 2017, THAIFEX-World of Food Asia is uniquely positioned in the region to connect visitors to a myriad of opportunities in Asia. This year’s edition boasts an additional 16% of floor space, extending into IMPACT Halls 5 and 6. At THAIFEX-World of Food Asia 2017, Asia’s top international food and beverage show, visitors can look forward to a mega showcase categorised and themed around the three ‘W’s zones: Whet Your Appetites, Witness evolving F&B trends, and Widen Your Business Network.
Food&HotelVietnam2017 – Vietnam’s leading international food and hospitality trade show, is set to return from 25 to 27 April 2017 at Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Food&HotelVietnam2017 promises attendees a truly international showcase with the largest variety of food, beverages, wines and spirits, as well as other services and technologies. Organized by Singapore Exhibition Services and in partnership with VCCI Exhibition Service, the event will welcome more than 520 exhibitors from 36 coun-
tries and regions (of which 75 per cent are from overseas) - including 16 international group pavilions of Australia, Belgium , Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Korea, Malaysia, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Turkey and USA. Covering 10,000 square meters of hall space, the exhibition will present exhibit categories such as Food, Drinks & Beverages; Dairy Products; Meat & Poultry, Bakery & Confectionery Equipment; Bar, Coffee & Beverage Equipment; Foodservice & Catering Equipment; Cleaning and Washing Equipment; and many more.
Host2017 Milano
20-24 October 2017, Milan, Italy The industry is eagerly expecting the 40th International Hospitality Exhibition, which will take place on 20-24 October 2017. The aroma of a cup of black steaming coffee is every bit as evocative of Italy as the national anthem or the Colosseum. It is also central to the scene and setting of the Host trade exhibition. Next edition of Host takes place on 20-24 October 2017 at the FieraMilano. Host is where you come to find the whole world of coffee – everyone from the producers of the beans and the companies that roast and blend them to the
manufacturers of coffee-making machines and the brand name companies that sell coffee, but also the designers and studios that create bar and café interiors. SIC – The International Coffee Exhibition has become the point of reference for the whole industry ever since its first pioneering editions held in the Chamber of Commerce of Milan in the 1950s. Indeed the very heart and soul of Host – SIC Salone Internazionale del Caffè is an unmissable calendar date for anyone involved at any level in the world of coffee. www.host.fieramilano.it, @HostMilano, #Host2017
Available Now on iPad & iPhone! 69
THAIFEX-WORLD OF FOOD ASIA/WORLD OF COFFEE & TEA May 31 – June 4 , 2017 Bangkok, Thailand www.worldoffoodasia.com www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com
JUNE
MARCH
SCAE WORLD OF COFFEE EVENTS
THAILAND COFFEE,TEA & DRINK 2017
June 13-15,2017 hungexpo, Budapest www.worldofcoffee-budapest.com
March 16-19, 2017 Hall 1-3, IMPACT Muang Thong, Bangkok, Thailand www.thailandcoffee.net
JULY
HOTELEX 2017
March 28 - 31, 2017 Shanghai New Int’l Expo Center, China www.hotelex.cn
CAFE SHOW CHINA
APRIL
TRAFS 2017
July 6-9,2017 ,China International Exhibition Center, Beijing, China www.cafeshow.com.cn
August 13-16, 2017 Bitec Bangna, Bangkok, Thailand www.thailandhoreca.com
FOOD&HOTEL INDONESIA
April 5-8, 2017, Jakarta International Expo, Indonesia www.foodnhotelasia.com
AUGUST
GLOBAL SPECIALTY COFFEE EXPO (SCAA)
MIFB
April 20-23, 2017 Washington State Convention Center, Seattle, USA www.coffeeexpo.org
August 9-11,2017,Putra World Trade Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia mifb.com.my
FOOD&HOTEL VIETNAM
HK Tea Fair 2017
April 25-27, 2017,Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC),Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.foodnhotelvietnam.com
August 11-13, 2017,Hong Kong Convention ,Hong Kong www.hktdc.com
SEPTEMBER
MAY
CAFÉ CAMBODIA
Food and Hotel Thailand 2017
May 4-6,2017 Koh Pich (Diamond Island) Convention and Exhibition Center, Phnom Penh, Cambodia www.cafe-cambodia.com
September 6-9, 2017 Bitec, Bangkok www.foodhotelthailand.com
HOSFAIR GUANGZHOU
MALAYSIA COFFEE FEST 2017
September 13-15,2017 hungexpo, Budapest www.hosfair.com
May 5 - 7, 2017 Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Malaysia www.mycoffeefest.com
HOFEX
SCAJ 2017
Bakery China 2017
Food&Hotel Malaysia
May 8-11,2017,Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre,Hong Kong hofex.com
September 20-22, 2017 Tokyo, Japan www.scajconference.jp
May 10-13, 2017 Shanghai New Intl’l Expo Center, China www.bakerychina.com/en
September 26-29, 2017 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.foodandhotel.com
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COFFEE A to Z
AROUNZ
Management
THE FIRST “ONE-STOP COFFEE SERVICE”
ALL ABOUT COFFEE
SOUTH KOREAN COFFEE RETAILER
AROUNZ
According to the statistics of South Korea Contents Media, South Korea had 12,400 coffee chain stores and individual cafes in 2011. Up to 2016, the number has increased to over 50,000, that’s three times bigger than the number in 2011. Seoul, which only has a population about 10 millions, has over 20,000 cafes. In addition, big office buildings even have their own baristas, the mediumsize office buildings also have a café inside and the offices are equipped with coffee machines as well. A lot of Korean houses have their coffee gears prepared, in case if the owners want to have a cup of coffee there. From all that, we can clearly see coffee
No doubt, the matured market brings the whole business alive; coffee market needs a platform that can organize the resources in a professional and objective way. Aiming for the gap of the market at that time, the notion of coffee retailers arose from the horizon. In July 2013, Korean famous food production brand CK Corporations founded the coffee brand ArounZ, it runs under the idea of “One-stop Coffee Supermarket”, it offers services online and offline. It became the best in South Korea, covering every need of the coffee business. It’s like alphabet from A to Z, ArounZ offers all kinds of resources for the coffee industries, it provides customers with the best coffee experience
means a lot to the Korean people.
and stimulates them through every sense.
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The offline retail store of ArounZ is located in Seonyudo, Seoul, it has an area of 400 square meters and it is a three-floor building made out of containers. Its rich industrial design and its worksite location mix very well together. Apart from the second floor, where is office area, the first and the third are for the customers. The first floor has four sections including product selection, raw beans storage, roastery and coffee tasting room. They have over 5000 kinds of coffee products, from beans, gears, syrups and packaging to straws made specifically for coffee; almost each product is available by different brands that you can choose and compare, the store can be considered as a convenient platform for coffee lovers and coffee professionals. Besides the regular “open-shelf” service, ArounZ also offers the customers roasting service. You can also watch and learn while roasters work. The third floor is a senseexperiencing center, which also has classrooms for lessons. ArounZ has its own farm.They send people to different countries regularly for beans selections. Understanding the idea of making coffee that customers like to drink, ArounZ tries to find the best flavor for their coffee. Once beans are sent to roasting factory, a team form by the Q-graders and the local famous roasters reviews and tests the beans over and over . Deeply influenced by Japan and the US, Koreans like their roasting level pretty balanced, they also like cocoa and nutty flavored coffee from Latin America region. However, along with the trend of light roasting, the medium roasting level, which has a clean, crisp and fruity flavor, has become Koreans’ favorite.
SPECIAL TECHNOLOGY BACKUP The Korean coffee market gets mature every day, opening a café has become a profitable decision for lots and lots of young people. Having a coffee machine at home has also become a trend. Therefore, ArounZ not only provides the “One-Stop platform service”, it also has professional classes. ArounZ commits to spread coffee knowledge across South Korea and help the young people to have their individual cafes.
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Management
LOCK THE MARKET TO CATCH THE CHANCE
Home Café Program Regularly sets up free coffee lectures and talks about the basic principles of coffee etc.. For coffee lovers, they also have 1-on-1 lessons with Q-Grader, professional baristas or roasters.
Café Aid Program Free information about opening a café, including preparing different materials, menu designs and advertisings etc..
In addition to the retail store in Seonyudo, ArounZ has an online platform that sells same products as in store. Right now sells volume online is 300 items per day, 70% of the customers are coffee lovers and baristas, the other 30% are the café businessmen. The online platform connects to a much broader market - Southeast Asia is the second largest pool of customers, including Hong Kong with the biggest percentage of online consumers. According to the ArounZ representative, Koreans like to have at least two cups of coffee per day; also the amount of coffee consumptions in South Korean is rising continuously. Although in recent years instant coffee became unpopular due to the influence of the specialty coffee, instant coffee won’t disappear from the stage soon because it already became a part of a daily habit in a fast lifestyle of Korean people. However, Koreans will raise their standards on the instant coffee. So ArounZ announced that they will team together with the University of Seoul to improve the technology behind the instant coffee, they will create a product that combines the flavor of the specialty coffee and the convenience of the instant coffee and call it RTD (Ready to Drink), we are definitely looking forward to it.
The latest Monte-Carlo espresso machine from Conti features unique LED lights and exceptional multi-boiler system that guarantees precise and consistent water temperature throughout the brew process. The Monte-Carlo also comes equipped with user-friendly touch screen and the pre-infusion feature for the highest quality cup in every menu.
Different kinds of lessons, such as coffee educations, tests, operation management etc. Things you need for your café.
ArounZ Marketing manager
AROUNZ 74
Kwan Hyeok Hoon
For more info.: www.arounz.co.kr
Eco mode for excellent energy saving
7 colour LCD touch screen for extra personality and easy control
Cool touch steam wand
Teflon portafilter for easy cleaning
Small time and water volume display for each group head
CTI Class Story/ Matthew Perger
Higher extractions and TDS aren’t an aim. They’re an effect. It’s all to do with evenness of extraction. I’ve written thousands of words on this. Look here, here, here, and here if you want to learn about how an even extraction will improve things for you. In short: with all other variables static (same dose, yield, time etc.), a more even extraction will result in a higher extraction yield. So, the aim isn’t a higher extraction, it’s a more even extraction. And the easiest way to spot a more even extraction in a side-by-side test is an increased TDS and therefore extraction yield. Don’t confuse the two!
Our goal in the Specialty Coffee industry is not to yield a higher TDS. Our job is to make amazing coffees for customers. This is almost the same thing, but I put it here to drive the point home. When hunting for evenness, TDS is a proxy for extraction so it’s really the same thing. These three statements will serve well anyone looking to improve their coffee: ● A more even extraction is a more delicious extraction. ● A higher extraction that tastes great is a more even extraction. ● A higher extraction is not necessarily a more delicious extraction.
There’s still a lot of misinformation and anti-intellectualism surrounding coffee refractometers. Here’s a couple phrases I’ve read recently, and my rebuttals. Apologies for the rant, but we should be collectively well past this.
STOP
Higher extraction isn’t always more delicious. I’ve had plenty of espressos at lower extractions that are delicious.
RENOUNCING REFRACTOMETERS
A delicious high extraction, and a delicious low extraction are not mutually exclusive.
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It is shame to see lot of baristas being driven by numbers. This is just straight up anti-intellectualism. It’s wondrous to see so many Baristas around the world embracing measurement and consistency! I remember my first WBC in Bogota, where half the competitors were using scales to measure their espressos and that was revelatory. Look where we are now! ● Do you deride your accountant for being driven by numbers? ● Would you prefer that the manufacturers of your seatbelt put down their testing instruments and had a good look instead? ● Do worldwide companies known for exceptional customer satisfaction reject their Net Promoter Score and rely on vibes? ● Would you prefer your coffee farmer put down the moisture meter and just send you coffee she feels is amazing? Being driven by numbers is admirable. Never let anyone tell you otherwise.
We will not use Refractometers to dictate what we should serve our customers. The classic I-have-no-idea-what-this-thing-does argument; aka wilful ignorance aka tactical stupidity. Facts do not cease to exist when you ignore them. Every coffee you make for your customers sits at a certain strength and level of extraction. Why not track it and learn? Refractometers don’t dictate what you should serve, they just help you track and understand what you’re serving. If your coffees aren’t tasting great and a refractometer indicates your strength and extraction are lower than when it was previously delicious; is that the refractometer telling you to increase them? No. It’s telling you what’s different, and you’ve learnt why. A refractometer is a quantitative tool. It doesn’t have sick 77
CTI Class
SHANGHAI MELLOWER COFFEE ROASTING FACTORY
days, palate fatigue, or bias. It also can’t tell you what’s delicious or otherwise. Your tongue is a qualitative tool. It can detect thousands upon thousands of nuances and knows exactly what delicious is (sometimes). It has bad days, is wildly affected by your biases, and cannot be quantified. Use just one, and you’re blind. Use them together, and you have the best of both worlds! Sensory Lab has collectively saved hundreds of thousands of dollars through the use of refractometers in our roasters, cafe, and customer’s venues. We’ve improved roast consistency and solubility, inter-venue consistency, inter-barista consistency, equipment
choice and servicing, and just straight up deliciousness of our coffees: all through the use of refractometers. You’d be a fool not to employ them wherever possible.
About Barista Hustle Barista Hustle is an online blog, community for baristas founded by Matt Perger, World Brewers Cup Champion 2012. It is well known amongst Baristas worldwide as a source of advanced information and equipment for coffee making, and for the ultra premium coffee bean subscription.BaristaHustle.com
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Origin Story&Photo/ Melanie Leeson from the collaborative
Until this point, the various planters’ unions and then the Coffee Board of Kenya had focused their efforts on gaining control over processing and curing coffee. So far left out of these movements was the gaining of genuine control over the marketing of Kenyan coffee. The auction was thus borne from the impetus of Kenyan farmers who wanted to gain control over the marketing of their coffee. The first auction was established in 1931 but did not overthrow the prominence of the London traders. Several other auctions followed to varying degrees of success until in 1937, when the Nairobi Coffee Exchange was opened to widespread support. In addition, a nationwide standard in grading was developed in 1938. This became controlled by the KPCU.
THE RISE OF THE COFFEE SMALLHOLDER
KENYA The Backward Rise of the Small Estate Farm Connecting quality coffee with specific farms and their owners has become the specialty coffee norm, which emphasizes cup score, long-term relationships, and transparency. This bodes well for smallholders and roasters alike, as these expectations point to an evolving market; one that is slowly shifting away from purely speculative pricing and is now favouring connections between specific people selling and buying to/from one another. Kenya, then, has been anomalous from other specialty origins in that much of its best quality lots are sold through a centralized auction and come from cooperatives serving up to 2000 smallholder members each. But contrary to other origins, many of Kenya’s coffee farmers’ cooperatives are impressively run organizations. Many of them actually
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accomplish what so many cooperatives in other origins fail to do: provide services and disseminate information that help farmers grow great coffee which in turn attracts buyers willing to pay good prices. Kenyan coffee cooperatives are in fact so successful, that some of the highest quality lots in the world come from them: AA and AB lots produced by cooperative factories are consistently the most expensive commercially traded coffees in the world. To understand how and why coops became so strong, let’s go back to the beginnings of how
Land ownership rights will always determine how a coffee sector is structured. With Kenya’s colonial history, early coffee production was represented and controlled by colonial land owners. In 1946, the government (still colonial) began to open rules for who could grow crops where and actively began encouraging indigenous Kenyans to grow cash crops, including coffee. Then in 1954, a local chief got coffee seedlings from a European friend and began to plant on his farm. While he was initially subject to criminal proceedings, the growing independence movement (“Mau-Mau rebellion”) aided the chief in having his case successfully dropped. Once the rebellion ended, the Director of Agriculture removed restrictions previously allowing for only large plantations to grow coffee. The smallholder revolution had begun.
Kenyan coffee was traded.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE KENYAN COFFEE AUCTION In the beginning (pre-Depression era), coffee was sold by London traders who took up to six months after the coffee was shipped before paying the farmers. Farmers had to rely on banks to finance them during this period, as well as pay for shipment costs. Further depleting their returns was the fact that coffee was initially dry milled in London, rather than in-country. By 1926, the Coffee Planters’ Union was established with the aim of helping producers both make better coffee and more money from it. The 1930s was a time of rapid changes within the Kenyan coffee industry with various groups trying different kinds of cooperative and marketing systems, with the result that the Planters’ Union began splitting into smaller cooperative societies. The Thika Planter’s Cooperative Union became the largest and most dominant of these factions, which eventually was replaced by the Coffee Board of Kenya (KPCU), due to political lobbying from farmers and traders.
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Origin
THESE DAYS, KENYAN COFFEE IS MADE UP OF TWO MAIN SECTORS Smallholder cooperatives began building factories/washing stations in the 1960s so that they could process their coffees the way large plantations did. Nowadays, these factories serve up to 2,000 members each. Smallholders, overall, control of 58% Kenya’s coffee production. Not only do they contribute the largest proportion of coffee, they are known for producing the highest quality coffee coming out of Kenya.
KENYA COFFEE
1 25% PLANTATIONS
75% SMALLHOLDER FARMERS
2
CHANGING TIMES: THE RISING SMALL ESTATE FARM plantations, made up of ±3,300 farms comprising an area of ±40,000 hectares (ha) of coffee. Within the plantation sector, there are 3000 small estates (<50 ha) and 300 large estates (>50 ha). This accounts for about 25% of Kenya’s coffee planted land. The other 75% is comprised of the coop sector, made up of 270 cooperatives with a membership totalling 700,000 smallh o l d e r f a r m e r s c u l t iv a t i n g 120,000 ha of coffee.
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Given Kenya’s coffee history, it is unsurprising that the cooperative has been the dominant seller of Kenyan specialty coffee. Specialty coffee buyers are very used to working with cooperatives and marketing Kenyan coffees in this way. But not all cooperatives are working equally well and it has often proved frustrating for a buyer to align themselves with specific coops and/or factories because of things like corruption, mismanagement issues, and fluctuating quality. It is for these reasons, traceability con-
cerns, etc., that we have started exploring relationships with both single estates as well as small farmer groups beginning to form micro-coops. As is true at origins with well-developed farm-level marketing, these kinds of partnerships are enticing for even greater quality and relational potential than is possible with big group organizations.While touring Kirinyaga during early-November this year, we met with the newly established “Slopes of 8” micro-cooperative. As its name implies, this cooperative is made up of eight estates that have banded together to market their coffees together with the aim of establishing long-term relationships with buyers. The project has garnered so much interest from neigbouring farms that the leader of Slopes of 8, Joseph Karaba, is consulting others on how to begin their own micro-cooperatives. In February, we will hopefully cup lots from a couple of these newly established coops and start some new partnerships.We have already had a lot of success with one small estate farmer relationship that was established two seasons ago: John Njoroge owner of Kiambu and Kiriani estates, who has produced great coffees for us two seasons in a row. The current harvest will represent our third season working with him and we were thrilled to see that he had invested in and constructed beautiful, sturdy, shaded drying beds, even though the drought brought on by El Niño/La Niña earlier this year has left him with a disappointing volume of coffee this season.Unfortunately for farmers all over Kenya, the current harvest will lead to lower than average volumes this year, which often leads to higher overall cup quality. Look forward to sharing our selections with you in a few months.
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Origin Story /Daniel Millard Humphries
COFFE
I n my j o u r n e y s a r o u n d t h e re g ion , to b e to t a l ly hone s t a nd blunt, I’ve tasted more stale, haylike, and washed-out cof fee than I’ ve tasted anywhere else in the wo r l d . T h e re i s a n e p i d e m i c o f “ b a g g y ” a nd “ p a s t - c rop ” f l avo r s in East Asia, and S outheast Asia. What’s worse, many cuppers are so accustomed to th is f lavor th at t h e y d o n ’ t e ve n n o t i c e i t — o r t h e y e ve n c o m e t o p r a i s e i t a s something good! This is a serious situation, and it is my belief that it’s holding back t he i nd u s t r y i n t h i s p a r t o f t he world. People talk about “farm to cup.” Great care is put into selecting the farm. Great care is put into brewing the cup. But in between there is a period of months or years th at the “special” coffee is getting treated like it was just a big pile of garb a g e r o t t i n g aw ay i n a n i n d u s trial warehouse!
E’S
TRANSPORT & STORAGE
FRESH
KEEPING YOUR COFFEE The explosion of specialty coffee in East Asia and Southeast Asia has been wonderful to see, but is there a blind spot in Asian quality coffee practices that is holding back the entire industry? In many ways, Asia is ahead of many other parts of the world when it comes to certain aspects of specialty coffee. There tends to be a very high degree of attention to detail at the roasting and coffee shop/barista level. In my travels from Shanghai to Taipei to Singapore, I’ve seen many beautiful shops with extremely top-level grinders and espresso machines. The baristas show a great deal of care and attention when preparing their drinks, and the latte art is probably the best in the world, on average. At the roasting level, too, I see roasters making very detailed graphs charting the rate-of-rise of their roast curves, agonizing over 10 seconds here or 2 degrees there, trying to get the best possible flavor out of their roasts. And everyone is aware that different origins, processing styles, and varietals can lead to huge differences in flavors. The Asian market, for example, is keenly aware of the best Geishas in the world, like I’ve mentioned in past articles. But there is something so fundamental and basic underlying all of these extreme quality procedures. It’s simple, it’s not sexy at all, and almost everyone seems to be overlooking it: how is the green coffee stored?
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TRANSPORT & STORAGE
UNFAIR ADVANTAGES IN GEOGRAPHY As with my past articles (about wet weather in Panama, drought in Brazil, and El Niño in El Salvador), much of the issue comes down to geography and climate. My background in life and in coffee is from the Seattle area of the United States. I believe it is no coincidence that the strongest centers of the third wave specialty coffee explosion back in the late 1990s and early 2000s were on the West Coast of the United States: Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco. These three cities have relatively similar climates: cool (but not freezing) in the winter; warm (but not hot) in the summer, with ocean breezes. All three cities receive oceanic precipitation, but the ambient humidity is low and stable overall, and they do not receive monsoon style rains that you see in the tropics. Why is this important? Because it allows for a style of green coffee storage that naturally preserves the inherent flavor of the beans. Many are familiar with the idea that green coffee is “like a sponge.” That is to say: i t soaks up whatever is around it. In moist environments, the coffee absorbs moisture, and in dry environments, it releases the moisture.
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Origin
UNFAIR ADVANTAGES IN GEOGRAPHY So, if you do business in Asia, and you care about quality, what can you do about all this?
1 Green coffee is“like a sponge”
IT SOAKS UP WHATEVER IS AROUND IT. IN MOIST ENVIRONMENTS, THE COFFEE ABSORBS MOISTURE, AND IN DRY ENVIRONMENTS, IT RELEASES THE MOISTURE. This natural sponging action of green coffee means that, when stored in “extreme” conditions, it can soak up and release ambient moisture many times over. I put “extreme” in quotation marks in the last paragraph, because what’s “extreme” to one person might be normal to another person. I talked to Chris Davidson of Atlas Coffee Importers in Seattle, one of the leading US companies, and he had this to say: “Green coffee is comfortable in any place that humans are comfortable. If you think about temperature, humidity, airflow, and extreme light as variables, humans all have a fairly narrow comfort zone before they start to suffer.”He also points out that warehouse conditions have to be kept workable for any employees. In the ports of Seattle, New Jersey, and Oakland, they keep coffee warehoused in places with air circulation, but no air conditioning. However, he notes: “New Orleans is one exception, and we tend to keep micro-lots stored in an air-conditioned room there to beat the intense heat and humidity.” Intense heat and humidity, as Davidson notes, can be very damaging for coffee. And, I’d also note, that what’s “comfortable” for one person could be “intense” for another person. As a native of Seattle, I find New Orleans to be very hot and steamy. But a native of Hong Kong would probably find New Orleans to be quite mild. So the situation, climatically, in East and Southeast Asia is, in fact, more seriously damaging for green coffee than, for example, that in New Orleans.
If you look at a map of the world’s climatic zones, you’ll find that there are very different conditions around the South China Sea and the Sea of Japan than those that exist on the west coast of North America. And, the warehouse practices are less strict in Asia, when in fact they need to be much, much more strict! So, you have a phenomenon where specialty coffee shops are spending thousands of dollars on fancy espresso machines, obsessing over the details in Scott Rao’s books, paying top money for coffee from famous places like Yirgacheffe and Boquete. And yet: the raw ingredients they are using have been totally destroyed before the process even begins.
ASIA NEEDS A REVOLUTION IN THE WAY COFFEE IS STORED
For example, the coffee that I access most is stored in Singapore. Singapore is one of the hottest, most humid places in the world. But we take care to air condition the coffee 100% of the time. From the moment it arrived at the warehouse, it has never once been subject to the outside climate. It’s even better cared-for than the coffee in the original “coffee revolution” cities of Seattle and San Francisco. I’ve done side-by-side cupping with coffee from various warehouses around the region, and there’s really no comparison in freshness. Coffee stored in climate-controlled warehouses has far more flavor even after years than the coffee stored in heat-and-humidity has after even just a few months. 86
2
The first thing is to use a green importer with a great warehouse. They should be able to prove to you that they are taking care of the coffee. Unfortunately, there are very few traders in the Asian region that are storing their coffee properly.
The second option you have is to take ownership of the coffee as soon as possible after it is imported, and store it yourself. This means you will have higher electricity bills from air conditioning, but you have to decide if this is worth it.
Many businesses purchase very expensive espresso machines and roasters — worth tens of thousands of dollars — and then they ruin their green coffee by trying to save a few hundred dollars in electrical costs. This is very foolish! You can make your business stand out for quality by taking care of the storage conditions. I’ve noticed something interesting. For various reasons, I often have extra sample material left in my home that I keep in storage. Occasionally I will sample roast these coffees and cup them to track the quality. The samples that have been out of the climate-controlled warehouse for a longer time always have a more faded flavor, and sometimes taste very old, despite being only a few months old. Conversely, the samples that are fresh from the warehouse taste bright and fantastic, even if the coffee was harvested a long time ago. Storage makes all the difference.
SHIPPING CONCERNS Shipping containers are, essentially, just a big metal box. The only thing between the inside of the box and the outside is a single layer of metal. That means it can get very hot (or very cold) inside, and whatever humidity levels are outside will be the same inside. To mitigate this, the best producers and exporters put a lining of craft paper inside the shipping container. It may not seem like much, but that paper liner can act as a sponge — a kind of barrier between the inside and the outside, that “breathes” as the outside conditions change. I’ve also begun to experiment with putting silica packets inside the container and even inside the bags of coffee themselves. These are the small packets you sometimes find with electronics, or with other food products sometimes, whose purpose is, again, to soak up excess moisture and act as a buffer. This is something you will see from quality exporters and importers more and more in the future.
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Origin
BAGGING CONCERNS
The advent of GrainPro bags (and similar style multi-layer polyethelene bags) has been a big help to the coffee industry. Most people are familiar with these bags these days. And although they are still unavailable from certain origins, each year we see more and more producers pack their coffee in these bags. I don’t have a strict “GrainPro only” policy for my own coffee, because this would exclude some great coffee. But that is the way the industry is headed, and in the future, I believe we will see the extinction of the “jute only” style of packaging. There is also the question of how to bag naturals versus washed coffee. Essentially, the washed process kills off any changes going on in the interior of the bean. After fermentation, the fresh-water washing process makes the coffee relatively inert. If it’s been dried properly, you end up with a product that is stable in flavor. However, with natural process coffees, there is increasing evidence that the coffee is still changing weeks and even months after the drying process is over. Although the overall moisture content of the coffee should be stable, some of the alcohols deep within the coffee may still be changing. This means that there’s a chance of bad flavors developing after the coffee has been bagged. Cotton liners are a way to mitigate this process. Because the cotton breathes more easily than polyethelen, it allows air to circulate around the beans inside the bag. But the absorptive character of cotton means that it acts as a moisture barrier, meaning the coffee is better protected than it would be in a plain jute sack.
THE BARISTA CHOICE
WITH THE STELLA DI CAFFÈ DCL Multi-boilers machine with dual command on the same machine, lever for the skilled barista who wants to further control its shots and electronic volumetric control for the beginner barista to deliver consistant cups during rush hours. For more on this topic, you can view a video lecture on this website coffeescholars.com
MASSIVE DAMAGE, THEN CAREFUL PRESERVATION Most of the “damage” done to coffee happens immediately after harvest. The processing, milling, and shipping stages are where most of the damage occurs. After that point, it is up to coffee professionals in the consuming markets to take care of the coffee. The gradual aging of the coffee should be gentle, gradual, and barely noticeable. Right now, most coffee in Asia is aging far too rapidly, and the results can sadly be noticed in the cup. East Asia and Southeast Asia have done a fantastic job with so many stages of the specialty coffee boom. But it lags behind in proper green storage. The next leaders in this industry in the region will be those that get strict and serious about using coffee that was stored well. Luckily, we are already seeing movement in that direction, and I’m excited about the future, when all the best shops from Beijing to Guangzhou to Bangkok to Singapore have bright and beautiful tasting coffee that has been treated like a true specialty product from farm to cup — with no gaps in between!
China - Hong Kong - Macau Taïwan - Singapore Franzen LEUNG +86 152 1943 7598 +852 9686 3525 EXPORT Sebastien CONSTANT +33 687 737 047
Stella di Caffè DCL customized painted bodywork, front strip and colored leather handles
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info@unic.fr
UNIC espresso machines
Brand
Wega New Machine “MYCONCEPT”
THE IMPORTANCE OF PEOPLE MANAGEMENT
DRIVING WITH BOTH FEELINGS AND TECHNOLOGIES VISITING ITALIAN COFFEE MACHINE BRAND WEGA’S FACTORY Susegana is a small city on the north of Treviso in Italy. Vast plains and litters of locally produced wine make this place the home of grape wine. Quiet and opening environment are also the top priorities for many Italian factories. This time our CTI group paid a visit to the Italian coffee machine brand WEGA’s factory, which is located here in Susegana. Founded in 1985, WEGA is the brand that has the world’s biggest coffee machine factory. The factory was finished in 2007, the total area is 20,000 square meters, of course they ship worldwide. The whole factory has four production lines, about 180 engineers, automatic machines and high technology machine arms — these are the main forces that form this coffee machine productions.
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They say that Italians have strict attitude towards food and their lifestyle, luckily this visit really opened our mind and helped us understand their work manner. WEGA has almost 240 members, people that work here really reflect the potential of this company, 40% of them have10-30 years of working experience. As Filippo Nardin said “People are the value of the company, training them is the most important and the hardest part”. In WEGA, engineers need to adapt to different lines of productions. The company provides workers with training programs, letting them to learn different skills and to accumulate experiences at the same time. WEGA wants workers to know every step of the process, so it can help them to collaborate with each other better. Even when there is an emergency, workers can quickly solve the problems
themselves, but there are cutting machines and machine arms, in order to assemble the coffee machines with precisions. It helps to increase the production speed while keeping high quality at the same time. . What is more, each machine will be checked many times before its complete, beside the manual process, the last step of the checking process will be done by the computers automatically, in order to keep its precision.
GOING GREEN For those familiar with the new model “My Concept” from WEGA, there is a label that says “Green Line” which you may already know. Besides that, the machine itself has a power saving feature, and production of it is also very environmental friendly. WEGA has a water recycling system, which can check and purify the waste water from the furnace. Apart from all that, the lighting in the factory is also eco-friendly and has all the certificates. Well, you can see how serious when WEGA takes environment issues.
to maintain the lines of work properly.
HIGH TECH Besides people management, professional and creative production skills are the core of WEGA. a lean manufacturing system of production, to really make sure of quality of each producting process. During our half-hour tour, each automatic and manual production line is working in order. WEGA designs and makes steel parts by
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Brand
GLOBAL EXPORT The last stop of our WEGA trip was factory’s warehouse; we all know that packaging and storage are also very important. The whole warehouse is like a history of WEGA: starting from the small city Susegana to Veneto, then step by step selling all around Italy, and now shipping across the world. Apart from that, the lean manufacturing system, which promotes “minimizing the storage and putting an end to wasting”, is taking over the area. The storage only has sufficient amount of top selling models, the other ones are made according to pre-orders. Right now, export amount is about 70% of total production, including shipping to Asia, which is about 35%; thus, Asia, especially China, has become one of the WEGA’s most potential selling marAt the end of our trip we were lucky to have an interview with managing Director for WEGA, Mr. Managing Director for Wega Paolo Nadalet Nadalet, this gentleman used to work in restaurant business for ten years before he joined WEGA in 2003, he became the Managing Director in 2012. Recalling WEGA’s history, he still cannot forget that feeling of thrill and proud when the first coffee machines were produced. Talking about Italian coffee culture, Mr. Nadalet thinks that current coffee culture changes frequently, continuously developing and becoming more and more eco-friendly. WEGA keeps up with all those changes and offers Green Line coffee machines. Moreover, WEGA simplifies work of baristas introducing them to new technologies: new model “My Concept” shows this point very well as high-tech working surface looks more like a smart phone. Lastly, customizations and personalization, especially for the younger generation, is becoming the biggest trend, coffee gears is one of the ways for young people to express themselves. All these trends and concepts have become WEGA’s focus, to know what the customers want and to create many as many possibilities as customers want. For us, one day in WEGA seemed like a tip of an iceberg that has conquered 130 countries. We are certainly expecting this passionate Italian brand to bring more new ideas and coffee knowledge to this always-changing market.
InfinityRoast™. A new dimension in coffee flavor creation. Let the InfinityRoast™ inspire your product innovations and assist you in creating traditional and new non-conventional roasting profiles for customized flavor characteristics and physical bean properties.
Got a question? Let’s talk about it. consumerfoods@buhlergroup.com
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Brand
Milk foaming system The Arcadia brewing profile line offer also a Milk foamer system that allow to set 3 different programs for different milk texture as now a day most of the beverage produced with coffee machines are milk based the flexibility in milk texturing is a must on a modern coffee machine.
Hot water programs A dedicated touch pad for Hot water allow to set 3 programs for hot water extraction where is possible to obtain different quantity and temperatures to get the best from any infusion.
Arcadiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brewing profile concept is based on volumetric dosage control, the sophisticated electronic allow to set 3 pressure variation during the coffee supply process the variation are related to 3 volumetric segment of the pre setted coffee dose.
Espresso profiles The espresso coffee programs can be adapted to any coffee blend or single origin; with a settable temperature and an easy programming pressure profile.
Drip coffee profiles The pressure range go from 3 to 11 bar allowing to program low pressure profiles for tea infusion or filter coffee preparation, a special program for filter coffee at 3bar of pressure allow to set 3 pause during the water delivery in order to let the coffee drip down the filter avoiding the water overflow.
Bezzera espresso coffee machine company presented the new Arcadia line, a new professional coffee machine range from 1 to 3 groups available with brewing profile system and independent group temperature control by PID thermostat.
Bezzeraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new born Arcadia is a flexible product studied to follow the coffee preparation trend with a modern and simple technology.
The drip coffee program allow to prepare drip coffee with the espresso machine following a dedicated program.
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CREM INTERNATIONAL - WHERE QUALITY, INNOVATION AND THE ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT CONVERGE
Crem International Crem International AB has been designing, manufacturing and marketing high quality coffee machines for personal and professional use since 1985. With three strong brands under its flagship, Expobar, Coffee Queen and Spengler, Crem International provides high quality solutions for the food and drinks industry.
For more details: E-mail: info.cn@creminternational.com Web: www.creminternational.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/creminternationalasia/
Convergence
seeing the product in its context, understanding the needs of the end customers and segments in which the equipment is deployed. This way we stay true to our mission to manufacture top quality coffee machines, and to be the preferred partner for our customers”, says Sebastian Lindström, CEO of Crem International.
The following two decades was a time of exceptional growth for both EXPOBAR and COFFEE QUEEN. In the early 2000’s, more departments were added to EXPOBAR’s portfolio as they expanded to the US market. At the same time, Coffee Queen expanded towards Asia, setting their machinery in Shanghai, China. It was a common client that introduced Crem Aparatos Cafexpress and Coffee Queen. After five years, both companies linked the deal and became Crem International Group in 2008.
Quality, simplicity and innovation fuels Crem International, and they are now very proud to introduce their newest creation and addition to their espresso machine portfolio, the ONYX. The ONYX was designed from the insights of experienced baristas passionate about coffee. That along with their proven brewing technology and energy-saving software, they have created a premium espresso machine that is smart, reliable as well as elegantly beautiful.
With Spengler GmbH and Co KG as a recent addition to its roster in 2015, Crem International continues to provide high quality beverage solutions targeted to the HoReCa, Office Coffee Services and Convenience segments, and they are growing stronger than ever.
Entrepreneurial roots In Spain, Rafael Olaso Peiro witnessed the influx of tourists during its apertura in the 1960’s. Seizing this opportunity, he started importing exclusive, innovative and necessary products to answer to the needs of the growing hotel and restaurant business. With the knowledge of trading that he gained over the years, he decided to start the company Crem Aparatos Cafexpress manufacturing his own in 1985. After three years, Expobar was launched. In Sweden, Alvar Carlson loved experimenting with metal. One day, while he was drinking a cup of coffee, he thought of designing his own coffee machine. And so, he set to work, inventing the EDEA 2x7 in 1968. He set up his own company, which Stig Mansson, one of Alvar’s trusted employees took over the company in 1981. A few years later, Stig met Georg Möller and merger took place in 1983. It was finalized when Georg bought EDEA and renamed it Coffee Queen AB in 1986.
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Quality, Simplicity and Innovation Staying true to their roots, Crem International continues the legacy of their founders through elegant, innovative designs and high quality machines. From personal and professional espresso machines, filter coffee, vending and instant product machines, Crem International assures its clientele access to high quality food and beverages for anyone, whenever, wherever.
O N Y X Pro
“Crem International is pure passion and innovation. Our drive and our unique offer maximize the way we add value to our customers. We have grown from 446 MSEK in 2012 to 740 MSEK in 2016 and believe in
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Aroma - Smell is the largest part of how people perceive taste. That’s why our syrups and sauces have more aroma than competitors. Taste - We follow a “true to the fruit” philosophy to deliver truer flavour. We capture nature’s flavours at their best, so our syrups and sauces taste more like the real thing.
THE STORY OF FLAVOUR GENIUS
DAVINCI GOURMET At DaVinci Gourmet, we are inspired by Leonardo da Vinci and his pursuit of perfection. We use Craft, Science, and Art to empower Baristas and Mixologists to create their own masterpieces.
Our CRAFT We continuously evolve to meet the changing needs of today’s customers. Starting with legacy recipes, in single batches, we have been perfecting the art of syrup making for over a quarter of a century.
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Touch - The way a drink feels in your mouth is an important part of creating the perfect drink. We design our syrups, sauces, and bases to enhance mouthfeel and deliver the precise effect you desire.
The SCIENCE We understand how the senses influence the enjoyment of a drink and how flavour creates a deeper connection with consumers. Sight - We study how colours and appearance influence our emotions and satisfaction. We craft our syrups to look amazing in drinks.
Your ART And now… for the moment of truth. Like an artist who uses a colour palette to paint a masterpiece, we give Baristas and Mixologists a palette of powerful flavours so they can create their own masterpieces. We like to think of this as…. FLAVOUR GENIUS!
DAVINCI GOURMET; NEW SENSORIAL ‘TRUE TO FRUIT’ SYRUPS In our continuous journey of evolution, DaVinci Gourmet will be introducing a range of new syrup flavours, which had been co-created with Baristas and Mixologists to ensure products that are true to fruit. These new flavours are Menta Cubano, Super Berries, Green Apple Campagna, Grenadine Pomegranate, Blue Ocean, Tropical Passion Fruit, Raspberry Rhapsody, European Strawberry, Majestic Mango, Peach Garden and Dry Bitter Orange. Contact your local sales representative or distributor now for a tasting and more information. (http://apac.davincigourmet.com/find-your-local-distributor/)
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Tea Story/ Fei Liu
Certainly, bitterness, aftertaste of sweetness and cleansing aroma are not all what tea has. Vocabulary for describing tea flavors might include green grass, rose, gardenia, pear, peach, cream, nut, chocolate, cinnamon, sticky rice and chicken soup etc. China is one of the biggest producers and consumers of tea in the world, but we don’t seem to have looked into the flavors of tea in a deep enough way. When we mention “Chinese Tea”, we are not really sure what tea we are talking about because of the big variety with their distinctive flavors. While tea may fall into six broad categories, more types can be further developed in each category; the complexity might overwhelm anyone before he tries to learn about it. I would like to highlight three categories of tea based on their flavor.
is a result of a similar processing with that of Pouchong tea, the least oxidized oolong. Pouchong tea is a kind of Taiwan dark green tea, also known as oolong. But in the milk tea community, Taiwan dark green tea mostly refers to Pouchong tea. Most Pouchong tea is featured with clean flowery smells, such as Sijichun, which is a perfect choice for blending an oolong latte, and Qingxin oolong with orchid aroma.
STRONG AND FRAGRANT
FRESH AND LIGHT
Dark green tea
Green tea
THE TASTE OF TEA Tea strikes us as a drink with thin and cleansing taste. It would create a bitter and puckery sensation on the tongue followed by the aftertaste of sweetness. It’s simply like our life day in and day out, which makes one wonder how could it become one of the world top three non-alcoholic beverages, and even “Milktea Sis” (Zhang Zetian, wife of Liu Qiangdong, founder of Ecommerce giant Jingdong) has decided to invest 500 million RMB in this industry.
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White tea
L i g h t - fl avo r Tieguanyin tea
These categories mostly cover green tea, white tea, yellow tea, Pouchong tea and the light-flavor Tieguanyin tea. Those teas are popular with most northerners as simple and pure with a low degree of oxidation. They are perfect for a big cup and long and repeated brewing would not affect the flavor too much as long as the right amount of tea is used. Green tea, for its freshness from plants, might come with light fragrance of green grass, flowers, fruits and chestnut. Slurping the green tea would bring freshness and briskness of a chicken soup. Freshness and briskness apply to white tea as well, only that they are less strong and astringent than in green tea. Pekoe fragrance in white tea comes as simpler and more elegant, and the tea infusion is thicker with stronger texture. Abstract as the term of pekoe fragrance is, it is basically the clean and even hairy mouth feel. Indeed, the plucking of young tealeaves with much fine hairs produces good quality white tea of a high pekoe value. If green tea is a graceful Shanghai lady, white tea, in comparison, is a gentle and quiet girl of a southern water town. Tieguanyin is a premium kind of Chinese oolong tea; its aroma, compared with that of green tea, is richer and more unpredictable. Light-flavor Tieguanyin is featured with an elegant orchid aroma and a clean and sweet mouth feel, which
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This category covers most oolong teas. Compared with other tea, oolong is distinctively featured with a heavy aroma and varied flavors, which is resulted from the combination of its extremely complex processing, kinds and origins. As we know, most Robusta bean is for instant coffee, while Arabica for specialty coffee, likewise, a variety of oolong teas with unique flavors have developed based on the types of camellia sinensis, such as narcissus tea with orchid aroma, Jinxuan tea with milk aroma, Aijiao oolong tea with peach aroma, Cassia with heady aroma etc.. Wuyi rock tea, more than any other oolong tea, has particular flavors of different origins based on where the tea bushes are located among the seventy-two rocks in the thirty-six peaks of Wuyi mountain, which is the interesting part with rock tea. Oolong tea can suit any taste. To name just a few, flowery aroma light-roasted Queshe, fruity aroma medium-roasted Cassia, Oriental Beauty with honey and ripe fruit aroma, Ice Peak with nut and sesame a ro m a , r i c e f r a g r a n t T i e g u a ny i n , f u l l roasted Dahongpao with chocolate and milk fragrance, Old Bush Narcissus with wood freshness, Phoenix Single Bush with strong flower aroma.
Tea
Black tea
Dark tea
Aged white tea
T h i s c ate gor y cove r s bl ack te a , d a rk te a , a nd a ged wh i te te a . Full-fermented black tea, post-fermented dark tea, and naturally oxidized old white tea are all featured with mild aromas and pure tastes, which are perfect as a winter beverage. Yunnan black tea and Yingde black tea, strong and brisk, are good choices for making a milk tea. Fujian black tea and Yichang black tea, sweet and smooth, would be good companions at work. Jinjunmei, fresh and sweet, is perfect to share with a good friend. And the flowery and sweet single variety red oolong would make you the most popular afternoon-tea host. If you want to read a thoughtful book quietly, or simply want to ease your stomach after a strong hotpot or barbecue, go for sticky rice fragrant ripe Puer dark tea or arohid flavour Fu-brick dark tea. A big hot cup of either of them will comfort you in no time.
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Microbe-mediated post-fermentation of dark tea soften the astringent tealeaves, producing substance that helps stomach digest. The pekoe fragrance of white tea would develop into a honey smell in time. Old white tea is called “aged white tea” or simply “old white”. White tea with fewer buds, in its standing of many years, would bring pleasant herb fragrance. White tea is particularly popular in Europe because people believe it provides an extraordinary health effect. That feature of white tea is not alone for the first popularity of tea in Western countries, where tea, as a whole, was promoted as magical oriental leaves with curative function. Only taste-obsessed people from Hong Kong know that Shoumei , a white tea type, is cheap and perfect to refresh; the more the tea aged, the better. Tea flavors would mostly fall into those three categories, and each is the result of a combination of processing techniques, variety, and origins. As long as you know how the three factors affect the tea’s taste, you are close to find your favorite tea. But this is a big “know-how”, so complicated that it can’t be explained in a few sentences. The three factors also change constantly over time. Maybe that’s why tea continues its life and growth for thousands of years despite that good teas and famous teas come and go.
Our Quality travels the world. The quality of BUENCAFE’S organic coffee is recognized, supported and certified in America, Asia and Europe, that is why you will find it in many markets around the world.
Feel free to call +57(6)850-4040 Ext. 7327 or visit us at www.buencafe.com and let’s do business.
*Trademark registered by the Colombian Coffee Growers Federation - FoNC
PURE AND MILD
Tea Story/ Love Chan
POST-WINTER TEA: UNEXPECTED WINTER GIFT
Is Post-winter tea also winter tea? Even though they are both harvested in winter, a big difference in terms of mouthfeel during tasting exists. Winter tea usually sprouts in September and is harvested in autumn from the end of October to November. Post-winter tea usually sprouts in November and is harvested in Decem-
ber or upcoming January. Generally speaking, temperature goes down again after winter tea was harvested - tea leaves’ physiological function and metabolism slows down, and almost goes into hibernation. Warm weather at the end of winter misleads the tea trees that spring is coming. Therefore, tea trees begin to have small leaves, this tea is the so-called post-winter tea. As the harvest period is very
short and post-winter tea appears mostly on naturally high quality tea trees, the yield is very low. Just because of this, post-winter tea has other names like Liu Shui Zai or Qi Shui Tea. The taste of post-winter tea is very rich due to its special growing procedure - the low temperature make the leaves grow slowly so that leaves fiber structure is very strong. Besides the outstanding tea fragrance and no bitterness, Post-winter tea tastes soft and has a sweet aftertaste. All these make post-winter tea one of the seasonal specialty teas. The soft and smooth mouthfeel of post-winter tea comes only after careful tasting. Many tasters, when they brew Post-winter tea for the first time, make mistake by prolonging brewing duration or increasing water temperature. In fact, it is not necessary, there is an old Chinese saying “Tea’s temper is simple and not wide”, which means the taste of brewed tea is restrain, simple and self-consistent. Only by being calm, concentrated and simple while drinking tea you can feel its beauty, brought to you by its bitterness and sorrow. Indeed, elegant taste comes from few tastes. The flavor of postwinter tea can be descripted as a waiting for spring young girl, all what you can feel after filling your mouth with it is youthful vital energy.
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The post-winter tea that we are brewing today is originally from Ding Tea area in Ali Mountain. The processed tea leaves are blue and green, they take a shape of a ball and relatively bigger size. Normally we need to pay a lot of attention to not only tea’s variety, water’s quality, but also to the brewing temperature. As mentioned in the Classic of Tea book: on the first-round, water start boiling, forming the bubbles at a size as fish eyes; on the secondround, boiling bubbles at the edge of container rise up like a string of pearls; on the third and last round, bubbles stir and waves roll. After three brewing stages, water is not suitable for making tea; thus we can see how to master the water’s temperature and the right brewing temperature to make tea. Water becomes hard caused by the deposit of calcium after boiling again and again, this has bad impact on the tea taste. Professional tea brewers with high selfrequirements will train themselves to observe the fine brewed tea. This capability will help to reduce the chance to make under-extracted tea due to unbrewed water, which leads to lack of taste in tea, or over extracted tea due to over brewing water, which tastes bitter and plain. Today, we will make a post-winter tea in a pot with WHAT MAKES FINE water at a temperature of 95 POST-WINTER TEAS degrees Celsius. You can see that water mist is dense, with many small bubbles on the bottom starting rising up as a string of pearls. Sometimes fish-eye sized bubbles appear while brewing and their sound is so fast, like the wind blows through pine trees. It is the right way to brew 1 / water degrees tea, because in ancient times, our ancestors did not have thermograph or automatic temperature-controlling equipment. The only way to control the water’s brewing temperature was to observe bubbles’ size – when the size is like a crab’s eye and brewing sound is like a sound of wind blowing through pine trees, it 2 / altitude is also known as crab’s foam, which rises up during the first-round brewing. Since the introduction of electrical brewing pot by Lu Yu Tea Center in the 80s, it become very popular and as a result now it is easy to make tea at home. For example, if t he brew i n g te m p e r at u re 3 / management reaches to 95 degrees, heavy
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Tea
COMPARING TO THE WEIGHT OF BALLSHAPED OOLONG TEA, POST-WINTER TEA IS 1/4 LIGHTER, THANKS TO ITS LONG-TIME BREWING CAPABILITY
successful tea brand With us, your
is in the bag – or box, tin, can ...
first brewing time is 1’10” to 1’20” Second brewing is 40” to 60” Third brewing is 1’30” to 1’40” Fourth brewing is 1’50” to 2’20”
mist forms around the spout, accompanied by rolling waves and sounds, if it is 85 degrees, fish-eye like bubbles appear. If it is 75 degrees, only light vapor with small bubbles like crab eyes on the bottom of pot appear, its sound is very light - these are the benchmarks of brewing a good cup of tea. The influence of altitude on tealeaves has been always a topic to discuss. So if Post-winter tea is collected in low altitude, does it mean that large temperature difference is good for the tea? Maybe not. Many factors can influence the quality of tea. Beside the things like climate and natural environment, management of tea plantation is also one of the important factors that cannot be ignored.
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Comparing To The Weight Of Ball-Shaped Oolong Tea, Post-Winter Tea Is 1/4 Lixx
Considering that post-winter tea is tolerant to long-time brewing, we choose a special dark-red enameled pot with dual porosity structure to make the tea. This dual porosity structure can help to better release the real fragrance of tea by maintaining its original flavor. It is mentioned in Chang Wu Zhi that dark-red enameled pottery has benefits like keeping original tea flavor and avoiding to over-brew. In addition, this kind of pottery is heat resistant has so its handhold-friendly even after several brews. After brewing, we can notice that the tea is clear, the color is honey green and a bit yellowish. The special fragrance of Post-winter tea is known as “high mountain tone”. It is actually a fragrance of high mountain tea, which can be extracted with icy water. The flavor is like green grass after rain and the taste is very refreshing. The most important is the mouth feel brought by post-winter tea: it tastes sweet, smooth and moistening, no bitterness; the aftertaste is very fresh. There are variety of post-winter tea differentiated by region: in South Taiwan, it is Si Ji Chun and Cui Yu in Minxiang and Jin Xuan in Zhushan, in the East Taiwan, it is Qingxin oolong and Daye oolong in Luye. Normally a region with a lot of sunlight and high temperature difference has advantages in geography and climate. Tea brewers always try to pursue natural taste that depends on the region of origin of the tea and that makes this beverage unforgettable.
Develop your successful tea brand with our unparalleled selection of first-class teas, fruit and herbal infusions and instant products. We translate our trend insights from international markets into a line-up of innovative packaging solutions customised to precisely fit your brand’s image. After all, success comes in all shapes and sizes.
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Tea
京都 宇 ·治
SEEKING REAL GREEN TEA IN UJI-SHI, KYOTO KITAGAWA HANBEE
“Wind rising continuously from the green cloud, shiny white petals floating on the bowl surface.”
①
By the end of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), the way of “dian cha”, together with tea utensils were introduced to Japan by a Japanese monk Eisai (1141-1215) who took them from Hangzhou of Zhejiang province. It has since been popular and became the national tea ceremony of Japan. However, one dynasty after another, “dian cha” declined in China and finally was replaced by “steeped tea ”. Now looking back, we can say that it is such as pity. Japan Tea Central Public Interest Incorporated Association has its definition of matcha as: stoneground fine powder from shade-grown tea leaves laid out flat and dry without being rolled out (tencha). From this definition, we can see that origin, environment and production style are all strictly demanded for making matcha.
BEST JAPANESE MATCHA IN UJI As the saying goes, “Japan has the best matcha in the world, and Uji has the best matcha in Japan”. We hear the phrase “Uji Matcha” so often that many people mistake it for a brand. Actually, “Uji” and “matcha” were not born together. Uji is a small city in southern Kyoto. It is a basin surrounded by mountains, and it is extremely hot in summer and severely cold in winter. Such geography and climate, making Uji more than a peaceful place, providing natural advantages for growing tea bushes as well. Another treasure is the family fine tea craftsmanship passed from one generation to another. Since tea was introduced into Kyoto 800 years ago, “Uji matcha” is a synonym of “high-grade tea” and is popular with upper echelons of society.
TEA MAKING IN ACIENT DAYS
WHI SK
Time honored tea brand - Kitagawa Hanbee
——Lu Tong, a Tang Dynasty (618-907) Chinese poet
FROM POWDER TEA TO MATCHA When we talk about matcha(まっちゃ), many people would relate it with “Japan” and “Uji”, and they hardly realize that matcha actually originates from China and only thrived to Japan afterwards. As the birthplace of tea, China has a long history of producing and drinking tea, which dates back to five to six thousand years ago. Despite a flash in a pan, matcha has had an impressive moment in China’s tea history. Editors of CTI made a special trip to Uji, the birthplace of Japanese matcha, seeking the true nature of green tea.
Tea drinking came in different ways as time changed; it’s “cooked in Tang Dynasty (618-907), dian cha (whisking water with tea powder several times) in Song Dynasty (960-1297), and steeped in Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1644 and 16361912)”. During the more than 600 years from Sui and Tang Dynasties to Song Dynasty, “dian cha” was a popular way for brewing tea: grind tea was made into powder (powder tea) and added water, whiped them with a whisk① or a special tea spoon
In Uji Kyoto, there are plenty of time-honored shops passed from a few generations or even dozens of generations. The valuable ancient techniques are all reserved in the craftsmanship of these old shops, whose good tea needs no bush. What we visited this time is Kitagawa Hanbee, a prestigious matcha brand with a history of 150 years. Founded in 1861, Kitagawa Hanbee has been winning “National Matcha Golden Award” for 16 years consecutively. Products from its exclusive single tea field have won 34 golden awards as well. It is no exaggeration to call it the highest-grade matcha producer in Japan.
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Toshiyuki Kitagawa, who accompanied us in our visit, is the 6th head of the family brand. To traditional matcha craftsmen, tea is indispensable part when people interact and exchange their cultures. In the first meeting, Mr. Toshiyuki entertained his friends with tea, and he served us with the top level gyokuro, a type of sencha (processed whole tea leaves for infusing in hot water, as opposed to ground matcha powder). Different from traditional Chinese way of brewing tea leaves, gyokuro does not need to be waken up. Usually, the first steeping would use 45℃ water, which brings the fresh and sweet taste from the amino acid, surprising you with a sudden stimulation on your taste
CULTIVAR Similar to coffee cupping, tea evaluation would be carried out when tealeaves are primarily treated. High-grade matcha can be as expensive as over 10,000 RMB per kilogram. Evaluation process may cover the following steps:
bud. Only the second steeping would need high temperature water.
WITH THE BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO KITAGAWA
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OBSERVING
more yellow the tea infusion is, lower grade the tea is; greener the tea infusion is, higher grade the tea is;
TOUCHING
lighter the tea is, higher quality it is; softer the tea feels when pinched, better it is;
SMELLING
fresher and cleaner the fragrance is, better the tea is;
TASTING
sweeter the tea infusion is, better quality the tea is, and it might come with creamy and fresh mouthfeel. Another criteria is chewing tea leaves.
HANBEE’S HISTORY, WE BEGAN OUR JOURNEY FOR EXPLORING MATCHA.
All tealeaves will be processed with the unique Kitagawa fine techniques. After the sense evaluation by experienced judges, tea will be further produced in integrated technology based on its characteristics, and, thus, the distinct Kitagawa flavor matcha is created.
GRINDING AND FINISH At last, tencha is stone-ground into a fine powder through the use of specially designed granite stone mills. The mill rotates 60 times/minute and grinds tencha into powder with a diameter of 13 microns, the finest grind that can be achieved in the world. Compared with high-yield traditional tea, stone ground matcha is just the opposite- “slow work yields fine products”. Usually, high-grade tea should be preserved at -5℃. Therefore, Kitagawa Hanbee only starts grinding when a customer’s order is confirmed to be sure of the freshness.
CULTIVAR Cultivar of Camellia Sinensis is a matter of altitude, soil and temperature differences. As opposed to planting of coffee, shade growth is key for matcha. An average of 98% of green tea plants of matcha are shade grown for 20-30 days before harvest. If the plants are cultivated for light roasted tea, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight to avoid astringency in taste. Usually, there are two harvests of tea in a year, one in spring and the other one is in autumn. However, in Kitagawa, they only pick tea in spring and cut down the autumn tea from the plant in order to store nutrients for the new spring tea.
TENCHA Shade grown green tea leaves would first be made into “tencha” through steam fixation ② and laying out flat to dry. Modern technology has made large scale drying machine a requisite in tea factories. In addition, to achieve even higher quality, tencha may be de-veined and de-stemmed. In Kitagawa tea factory, there is even an automatic screening machine eliminating impurities.
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What’s more, rigorous control of the grinding process in Kitagawa Hanbee assisted with professional machine screening, ensuring the high quality of matcha without granular mouthfeel. Matcha in Kitagawa Hanbee is measured manually. A skilled employee can finish 500 packs (40g/pack) in a seven-hour workday, which is about the machine speed. Kitagawa Hanbee has been strictly producing and protecting Uji green tea for the 150 years since it was founded in 1861. It makes the greatest efforts to continue bringing authentic tea flavor the entire time. At the same time, it has also been developing techniques of tea production. When we “taste tea”, we are tasting Japanese adherence to traditions.
13-15 June 2017
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Explore new coffees, check out top European roasters and watch the best compete in 5 World Coffee Championships
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COFFEE EVENT
① WHISK: an ancient teaware, made of bamboo bristles. It is a requisite in Japanese tea ceremony for whipping. ② FIXATION: first step in processing tea where tea leaves are over-heated to prevent fermentation, keep the green color and soften leaves by reducing moisture content for further content.
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Come along and meet old friends, discover new trends and experience the excitement of five World Championship World of Coffee Budapest 2017 - Hungexpo, Budapest World of Coffee Budapest 2017www.worldofcoffee-budapest.com - Hungexpo, Budapest www.worldofcoffee-budapest.com
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HISTORY ACCORDING TO MUSEUM’S RECORDS, THERE ARE 5 STAGES OF GELATO HISTORY: 12,000 years B.C. – 13th century: From snow reservoirs to sorbets’ prototype 16th – 18th century: Ice cream available for aristocracy 19th – 29th century: Rapid development and spread of gelato 1900 – 1950: From ice and salt preserving technologies to modern technology development 1950 – 1985: Bringing together ice cream producing and retail spots
THE MYSTERY OF GELATO CARPIGIANI GELATO MUSEUM
HISTORY Traditional Italian hand-made ice cream, Gelato, is still quite new for customer in China; while for Chinese people ice cream associates with brands like Häagen-Dazs, Cold Stone Creamery, ICEASON etc., there are more and more people nowadays attracted by low-sugar and lowfat Italian delight with a long history in Europe. For a newbie in gelato world there is probably no better place to start getting to know its history than a Gelato History Museum. In 2012 famous Italian ice cream equipment producer, Carpigiani, founded the first Gelato museum in Bologna, Italy, it is also known as one of the seven coolest new museums. The museum’s total area is more than 1,000m2, gathering 20 different types of gelato equipment, 10,000 photos, videos, documents’ archive under the same roof. Since its opening 5 years ago, the museum has attracted more than 11,000 visitors from all over the world.
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HISTORY THE SECRET DRINK OF ARISTOCRACY Just like coffee, ice cream, or better to say ice drinks, came to us from ancient times. According to a research made by ethnologist Catherine Perlès, humanity discovered and used ice and snow 14,000 B.C. In records from ancient Mesopotamia we can find that servants in Royal Palace of Mari had to run around 100 km in search of snow and ice to cool the drinks at royal banquet or religious ceremony. In Chinese classical “Book of Songs”, there are also recording about people from Northwest Plateau who dug snow well to preserve ice and snow. In 4th century C.E. Greek philosophers, poets and some land conquerors started adding snow into drinks to make them more refreshing. But the first real ice drink was invented in 11th century, shrb (kind of a syrup, considered to be the most primitive version of sorbet) was made of water, sugar and spices, one would boil it all together and then put in a container filled with ice to cool it down. Since then people started to use ice to create different kinds of drinks and sugar became one of the most important ingredients for making sorbets.
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From 16th century aristocrats started treating delicacy and good food as symbol of noble life, but, unfortunately, there are very few culinary books left from that time. At that time, the French queen Catherine De’Medici and the royal alchemist/ astrologer Cosimo Ruggieri brought cryotechnique to Paris, which later became a huge trend in noble circles, allowing king’s servants freeze food. In 17th century two poets, Francesco Redi and Lorenzo Magalotti, wrote a recipe of gelato made out of eggs and cream, they were extremely proud of it; at this point, sorbet and other ice drinks still belong only to the aristocracy, including the Pope. The turning point was in 1686 when Francesco Procopio Cutò from Sicily opened his“Le Procope”café in Paris and started selling noble status sorbet to anyone who wanted it, making it available for wider audience. Today the café is still opened and known as probably the earliest place to sell ice cream. 18th century is an important period of time for ice cream history, written by Diderot and D’alembert Encyclopedia first time mentioned the word“glace(gelato)”; medical expert Fillippo Baldini wrote On Sorbets article, where he put sorbets into three categories and described in every detail its favorable aspects for health.
TECHNOLOGY CRAFT THE CRYSTALLIZATION OF HUMAN WISDOM Nineteenth century can be called “Golden Age” of ice cream, as gelato was produced of numerous ingredients such as flowers and other plants, vegetables and even medical herbs; also many famous chefs and hotels included gelato into the menu. Early gelato ingredients were still mixed by hand and after birth of artificial ice in 1869, its production costs went significantly lower and easier manufacturing made ice cream a one more type of street food. Every spring hawkers would push their ice cream trolleys, ring a bell and scream“Gelato,gelato!”; so in time this icy delight was all over Europe and even came to the USA. With growing popularity of gelato, people started paying more attention on its look and shape, and with the help of different iron patterns and equipment gelato became also fashion food.
Different iron patterns
IMCA ice cream barrel used in early twentieth Century
Early ice cream trolley
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From the late 19th century to the early 20th century, gelato’s culture was developing very fast in Europe due to a boom of gelato craftsmanship. At that time gelato was put in paper and glass cups, waffles, biscuits etc., until December 13th 1903, when Vittorio Marchionni invented and patented circular cone shape, which is now famous as gelato cone. At the end of the 1920s, with the invention of the automatic mixing cooling machine started a new era of gelato. Cattabriga’s “Motogelatiera”, fully automatic ice cream maker, became a revolutionary invention; in 40s Bruto Carpigiani from Italy started to develop cleaner, faster and more efficient way to produce ice cream, that is how “Autogelatiera” was born. Since then, his younger brother Poerio Carpigiani founded the brand “Carpigiani Bruto”, opening the way for “made in Italy” ice cream.
EXPANSION FORMING A UNIQUE CULTURE In 50s due to blooming ice cream manufacturing in Italy, there also started to appear more and more small individual and family business, of course, they were facing a severe competition making the quality higher and sanitary standards better, with time situation stabilized and everyone took their own place. 1950 – 1960, first committee of protection and promotion ice cream craftsmanship was established, bringing its culture, educating and training, the committee made a great contribution to ice cream history. Thanks to these craftsmen, health officials and appliance manufacturers pasteurization has become a point of the importance, automatic pasteurizers began to appear in the ice cream shop, in order to ensure the hygienic standards of handmade ice cream, which is now one of special characteristics of hand-made Italian gelato.
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SPREAD In 60s, the number of ice cream shops increased a lot, as automatic ice-cream making machines were being developed and modernized as everything else at the time, what brought new culture to Italian streets, gelato. The first World Expo of hand-made ice cream was held in Longarone, Italy, in 1959; in 80s first SIGEP Exhibi-
www.world-of-coffeeandtea.com
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SPREAD tion introduced gelato to even bigger audience, letting everyone to try this freshly made, rich-flavored Italian secret and to discover its amazing features. This dessert is a mix of deliciousness and culture, which evolved from the streets and gradually made its way to be a part of national diet, and on top of this, now it is available all over the world. This few-hours museum tour will definitely make you know more about its history, like the Museum Historic Curator Luciana Polliotti said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;it took us few centuries to create the perfect Italian handmade ice cream. The most important about this museum is that it shows gelato culture to every gelato shop and each gelato lover, only this way experts and general public will understand how to identify, treat, inherit and pass a true delight.
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3rd edition of Celebrity Coffee Bar will be hosted at Challenger 1. The celebrity baristas will showcase their specialty at specific timing so save the dates!
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2017
Challenger 1
4th International Trade Exhibition for the Coffee and Tea Industry in Asia Koelnmesse Pte Ltd Ms. Jennifer Chiah Tel: +65 6500 6738 Fax: +65 6294 8403 j.chiah@koelnmesse.com.sg
31 MAY - 04 JUNE
IMPACT Exhibition & Convention Center Bangkok, Thailand Jointly organized by
The Thai Chamber of Commerce
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THE “GELATO IN- FORMA”: GELATO FOR THE SPORT
insulin Ongaro, and also the two flavors with the tonic Peruvian root shown by Candida Pellizzoli with her “Maca: long life root” and “Maca and Pomegranate” by Franco Di Benedetto. Maurizio Alessi in his “Km 42,195” used an aqueous extract of equisetum to make sorbet with low glycemic load ideal for mineral integration. The “Passion sport” of Piero Salomone was instead made with egg white and sweetened by dates, raisin and banana therefore with fructose from fresh fruits and fiber. Instead, the recipes studied for the recovery effect after training could maintain a normal balance of sugars because release of insulin is important in restoration glycogen stores and amino acids absorption. Classic ingredients such as milk, eggs and yogurt are a good resource of high-grade proteins, good for muscular protein turnover; the antioxidants, represented by some vitamins and others phytochemicals such as anthocyanins from fruits, vitamin E from virgin olive
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he Maestri della Gelateria Italiana are a group of artisans key specialists in the art of making Italian gelato; they come from all around Italy and some of them have gelato parlors also in Germany. In 2004 they founded the Italian School of Gelato located in Perugia. This Italian Association in recent years became a pioneer in the proposal of functional gelato and promotes the combination of gelato & health in many ways. This argument is linked to specific competences and legislation awareness, for this reason, experts such as Roberta De Sanctis Ph D, dietitian biologist and consultant for functional food (Fb. Roberta De Sanctis nutrizionista nel settore gelateria) and dr. Salvatore Cannavò, chemist and consultant for some food industries and also connoisseur of legislation, have been involved in this project since 2013. The subject for the edition of SIGEP-2017 of the Maestri della Gelateria Italiana was “Gelato In- forma”: a series of gelato flavors designed for the sport. What does it mean? Flavors created for the moment before training and others designed for the recovery after. “The nutritional profile is different in the two cases,” says Dr. Roberta De Sanctis, “While the aqueous content is always important, as well as the mineral content, in the moments preceding competition it is important to reduce the sugars impact on blood to avoid the effect of insulin and the consequent fatigue linked to hypoglycemia. Therefore we utilized our gained knowledge of gelato structure with low glycemic index, already presented at SIGEP 2015 and 2016, to obtain a lot of specific flavors thought for a nice and easily digestible snack before physical activity.” Recipes of this type are the proposal of Arnaldo Conforto with his “delactosed”, balanced with stevia or the “pomegranwate” of Renzo
Here the complete and ideal recipe of Claudia Urbinati: “viable cell”, with high-grade protein from egg and milk, omega-3 from nuts and antioxidants from saffron.
Viable Cell White base recipe* Fresh pasteurized egg dextrose add nuts at the end *White Base recipe: Whole milk with saffron Extra-virgin olive oil sucrose maltodextrins dextrose emulsifiers and stabilisers whole milk powder
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oil and vitamin C from citrus fruits, are useful ingredients to counteract oxidative stress. Omega 3 from seeds and dried fruits are also important ingredients for their anti-inflammatory properties. A good example is “sbatudìn”, a sort of cream by Giorgio De Pellegrin or the “vanilla-protein” by Stefano Venier, both with a high quality and high content of milk and egg proteins or also an aromatic flavor of Corrado Sanelli with his “tangerine flavored olive oil gelato”, a complete mixture of hydro- and fat-soluble antioxidant vitamins and high-grade proteins. Giampaolo Cianuri brilliantly proposed a conversion of the drink Golden Milk to a sorbet with oatmeal milk; integration of omega-3 was the idea of Paolo Bettelli, Gianni Toldo instead, prepared “Seduction of Aphrodite” with Greek yogurt and fresh red fruits topping.
“*The maestri Claudia Urbinati (the author of the described recipe) and Franco Di Benedetto will be in China, in Shangai for Hotelex, to be present, as usual, as judges in the China Gelato Championship.” For more information: Email: info@scuolaitalianagelateria.it Web: http://www.maestridellagelateriaitaliana.it
Author: Dr. Roberta De Sanctis 713 g 40 g 120 g 40 g 30 g 7g 50 g
A biologist and a nutritionist; 15-years-experience as a biochemist researcher. From 2014, working with the Maestros of Italian Gelato Makers on the issue of gelato proposed as a functional food. Training gelato-makers to new concepts concerning the impact of the single ingredients and whole recipes on the body. https://www.facebook.com/robertadesanctisgelateria/
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VIVOLI,
GELATO. PRACTICING TRADITIONAL TASTES
Gelato, as the sweetest thing existing in Italian cuisine, is the expression of both Italians’ romantic spirit and their food traditions. Starting from the times when certain kind of food was only served in palaces to nowadays when it is served for everyone, along with the movies and the cultures spreading throughout the world nowadays, this great success happened not only because of the huge advertisements from the big franchise stores, also lots of hard work the gelato artisans devoted themselves into. Now they have their own story to tell. Today, we will introduce you this traditional family business store called Vivoli Gelatria.
THE HISTORY BEHIND THIS STORE The story of Vivoli goes back to 1929, at that time, Serafino Vivoli opened a dairy store in his community and it became the local’s favorite in no time. After a year, his brother Raffaello joined and helped managing the store. After that, one day the brothers decided to get into gelato business, and because the quality of their ingredients was very high the store slowly grew into a famous family business. In 1960-1970, because of the efforts that had been done by Piero, Raffaello’s son, Vivoli had been awarded the most recommended place to visit on the travel magazine for continuous years, this certainly brought fame and plenty of customers to the store. Nowadays in Florence, if you ask a local what’s the most recommended place to have gelato, Vivoli will surely be their top choice. There are various kinds of gelato being sold in Vivoli. In summer, there will be about thirty choices; even in winter, there still be around twenty choices available. Those choices include nocciola, fichi secchi & noci, vaniglia, riso flavor, zabaione, stracciatella, pear & caramello, etc.. These flavors combine the traditions with creativities. However, the most popular one is still the cream custard, although the ingredients are only
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fresh milk and eggs, Vivoli can still create a rich flavoring cream custard. This is also the difference between Vivoli and the other ge l a to s to re s : avoiding working on the big complicated heavy machines, Vivoli promises to use the traditional skills and fresh ingredients to fully maximize the tastes of the fresh materials. Therefore, Vivoli respects the seasonal routines of the fruit and vegetables and obeys the laws of nature. This makes a very interesting picture at the store because everyday there will be a slight different flavor of gelato. In times of difficulties, Vivoli also asks the local farmers for their helps: milk and butter, that Vivoli uses, comes from a place called Maremma, located in the south of Tuscany.
WITH GELATO SINCE EARLY DAYS “Tasting our gelato, it’s like experiencing heaven in ten minutes”, said proudly by Silvana Vivoli, the third generation of Vivoli. Since her childhood, Silvana spent a lot of time with gelato,and since then she is deeply in love with it. Back then, Silvana spent times in the kitchen helping her grandpa, now she inherited the store and everyday morning keeps serving fresh gelato to customers, she never gives up. In Vivoli, there is no recipes, all the methods are kept in Silvana’s mind; in order to keep the customers’ favorite gelato for ten years, Silvana has to really put her senses and experiences into the gelato. While talking with Silvana about the recent and the future of her store, Silvana Vivoli doesn’t hide her pride and proud, she is very enthusiastic and confident about the future business of Vivoli. One of her goals is while advertising the cultures of gelato, letting people know the importance of the basic ingredients of gelato, and also knowing how to make healthy gelato.
BIG FRANCHISE OR SMALL SHOPS Even though they seem very confident about their own gelato, changing in the market and the high demands from the customers make small shops like Vivoli indecisive on their future development. Especially when franchises such as Grom, Amorino and Venchi open up their stores on every corner. The basic standards of massive productions satisfy the basic tastes and quality needs of the modern customers, but the whole idea of “every gelato is different”will no longer exist at some point. Introducing new flavors may catch people’s attentions, but it slowly deviates from the essence of the traditional gelato. Making up beautiful stories and nice packaging may get customers from different corners of the world, but they cannot copy the fresh ingredients and the hard work that every artisan puts into his gelato. When facing the challenges, Vivoli will not be the one that stays the same. Combining traditions with creativities, operating the business with an opened mind. Thus, the products selling in Vivoli are different from the original gelato and traditional dairies; their handmade desserts and cakes, also espresso and cappuccino are another way of keeping their customers. Besides that, Vivoli is also focused on American market, it already has two stores in the US, located at Macy’s in Manhattan, NYC, and Disney resorts in Orlando, Florida. It doesn’t have a luxurious outlook or some exaggerating advertisement, it doesn’t pay less attentions on the qualities despite all the matches. Vivoli, almost hundred years old, not only is an old gelato store, to the people living in Florence, it is also a place to enjoy a ten-minute heaven experience. Like Silvana said, to her, the best compliment is not about the trophy, it’s about when a grandma takes her grandson to the store and she says to her grandson “ I’ve been eating Vivoli since I was ten, this has always been my favorite!”
I’VE BEEN EATING VIVOLI SINCE I WAS TEN, THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY FAVORITE!
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CONTACT U S
China Nicole Ou RM1103B, No.222 Huaihai Zhong Rd., Huangpu District, Shanghai, China +0086 6333 9299 cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com
Thailand&Malaysia Blue Sky Books Co., Ltd 65/4-6 Soi Chokchai Ruammit Wipawadee Rangsit Road, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand +622 6915891 +662 6915892 info@blueskybooks.net
Singapore Lulu Zhao The Prospex 108 Middle Road #01-01 & 02-01 Singapore 188967 +0086 13708478436 lucy@coffeetandi.com
Vietnam Vuong Boi Nghi
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3rd Fl, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai st, Dist 1, HCMC, VietNam +84-8 3822 5806 aki@coffeetandi.com
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Macau John Leung +853 2878 2878 john_leung@spcoffee.com.co
South Korea Sissi Xiao #4906, Block 107, 297 Tanhyeon-dong,Ilsanseo-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea 010-2314-1024 031-919-8118 sissi10.24@hotmail.com
WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR DISTRIBUTION PARTNERS. Please contact: cti@coffeeteaimagazine.com
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