coffee, tea & ice cream magazine bi monthly ma g a z i ne • vol. 8 • janu ar y-febr u ar y, 2009
www.coffeetandi.com
How UCC Makes “Good Coffee Smiles” Coffee Market Trend in Japan An Organic Primer
By Elizabeth Whitlow Inman and Mark Inman 亚洲的咖啡、茶与冰淇淋双月刊
Chun Shui Tang :
Taiwan’s Modern Pioneer of Tea
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EDITOR•TALK
8
Ct&I•society
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IMPROVEMENTS :
cover•story 领先一步，在激烈的竞争中脱颖而出：悠诗诗上 岛咖啡公司（UCC）—“Good Coffee Smile”
Ueshima Coffee Company 我们的责任是创造“Good Coffee Smiles”
Our Responsibility Is to Create......
A bi-monthly magazine serving the coffee society in Asia
悠诗诗（UCC）咖啡博物馆
UCC Coffee Museum 日本精品咖啡协会
Specialty Coffee Association of Japan
Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan
16 cAFé•DEsign
Art Director Kitti Amornpatanakul
18 INDY•VOICE
Blue Sky Books Team Potcharawan Sukmuen Prapaporn Rungkajonwong Rossarin Tupniyom Chavamon Boriboontanawat Dane Wetschler Zheng Xiaofang
212 BARcode A Glamorous New York Corner in Bergamo
Café De L’AMBRE Perfect, Old-Bean Coffee for 60 Years
contents
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NANATASSANA
An Organic Primer
28 special•report
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34
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Quality coffee for Barista & Reliability
Coffee Market Trend in Japan
Roasted Almond Latte Sweet New Year Latte White Almond Frappè BB Iced Latte The Sparkling Lover Tender Rose Soda ICEd•AID
Gelatoni TEA•TIME 春水堂: 美味茶汤·精致茶食
Chun Shui Tang
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coffee•techniques
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TRADE•SHOW•PREVIEW
Publisher Blue Sky Books 65/6 Soi Chokchai Ruammit, Wipawadee Rangsit Road, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand Tel : 662 691 5891 fax : 662 691 5892 Email : info@blueskybooks.net www.coffeetandi.com
HOT•BEV
BARISTA•Talk
Liesbeth Sleijster: 3rd Place in 2008 WBC Akihiro Okada: The 2008 Japan Barista Champion Cloth Filter Drip Coffee Thailand Coffee, Tea and Drinks 2009 Hotelex Shanghai 2009 HOSFAIR Guangzhou 2009
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cafés•around•the•world
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baristas•around•the•world
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product•news
TRADE•SHOW•TOUR
SCAJ 2008 Coffee Fest Hong Kong Taipei Tea, Coffee & Wine Expo BARISTA•CHALLENGE
The Millrock Free Pour Latte Art Championship Taiwan Barista Championship 2008 Japan Barista Championship 2008-2009
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1, avenue Albert II - B.P.119 - MC 98007 MONACO Cedex - Tel.:(377) 93 10 43 43 - Fax : (377) 93 10 43 44 E-mail : export@conti-espresso.com Websites : www.conti-espresso.com www.conti-spareparts.com
When I was young, I was not much different than other Thai kids that grew up with Japanese comic books. Compared to western comics, the easy readability, neat drawings, and cute characters were and still are unique to Japanese comics. These comics we read when we were young provided our first exposures to Japanese people and culture and now give us fond memories of our past. Over the last 20 years, I have been involved with Japanese people and culture through my business relationships and friendships. Having had several short and, sometimes, long stays in Japan, I am impressed by their people, culture, way of doing business, and philosophy of producing goods and services. I have met a few key people in the Japanese coffee business, in particular, Mr. Takeo Ueshima and Mr. Tatsushi Ueshima, president of Ueshima Coffee Company (UCC) and the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ). I came to understand Mr. Ueshima’s vision of the coffee business and learned of his experiences managing UCC. He told me how He built the UCC Coffee Museum and Coffee Academy, how he helps improve coffee-qualMr. Takeo Ueshima and I in Kobe
ity from farming to distribution, and how they both facilitate the cooperation among players in the Asian coffee industry. Every time the SCAJ has meetings or activities to increase co-operation among members of the coffee business in Asia, they never forget to invite me. Although I have visited other countries to observe how the coffee business occurs there, I have received no welcome as warm as when I took my first step into Kansai airport, Osaka. I visited a number of UCC’s coffeehouses, the UCC Coffee Museum in Kobe (where UCC’s headquarter is situated), a coffee institute and laboratories that follow the standards of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), and other UCC operations in Tokyo. Listening to Mr. Ueshima’s stories told in conversation – stories about the invention of the world’s first canned coffee, ideas about new, retro-style coffeehouses that imitate the old-style Japanese coffeehouses (Kissaten) and traditional brewing methods – convinced me that the UCC has been and will continue to be one of the leading coffee companies and coffeehouse franchises in Asia for a long time.
EDITOR•TALK
我的少年时期，和泰国其他孩子没有很大的差别，日本
以及他们在促进亚洲咖啡业经营者间的合作上所做出的努力。
漫画伴随了我们的成长。比起西方漫画，日本漫画更为通俗易
每次日本精品咖啡协会举办增加亚洲咖啡业人士之间合作的会
懂。那些简洁的构图、可爱的卡通人物都是日本漫画独一无二
议或活动， 他们都不忘邀请我去参加。
的特征。那些年轻时看的漫画，使我们对日本人民以及日本文
虽然为研究当地咖啡业的发展状况，我访问了很多国家，
化有了最初的接触和了解，如今，通过这些漫画，我们仍然能
但是我第一次迈入大阪关西机场时受到的热烈欢迎是无可比拟
追忆起过去那些美好的时光。
的。我走访了很多悠诗诗咖啡屋、坐落在神户的悠诗诗咖啡博
在过去20多年里，无论是商务活动还是纯粹的友谊往
物馆（悠诗诗总部所在地）、按照美国精品咖啡协会 (SCAA) 标
来，我一直和日本人民保持联系，也不断地涉足日本的文化
准建立的一个咖啡研究所、一些实验室，以及悠诗诗在东京的
领域。在多次或长或短停留日本的过程中，日本人民、文化、
其它业务点。
他们的经营方式以及生产和服务理念都给我留下了极其深刻 的印象。
在交谈中，倾听 上岛达司（Tatsushi Ueshima）先生的故 事：世界上第一个罐装咖啡的发明、仿日本旧式咖啡屋 (Kis-
我有幸见到几位日本咖啡业的关键人物，尤其是悠诗诗
saten) 打造出来的新式或者怀旧风格咖啡屋、传统的酿造方
上岛咖啡 (UCC) 和日本精品咖啡协会 (SCAJ) 总裁 上岛达司
法——这些都使我深信，在亚洲，悠诗诗一直是，而且在将
(Tatsushi Ueshima) 先生和 Takeo Ueshima 先生。我明白 上岛达司
来很长一段时间里都会是世界领先的咖啡公司和特许经营咖
(Tatsushi Ueshima) 先生对咖啡业的设想，并从他身上学到了悠
啡屋中的一员。
诗诗的管理经验。从他的介绍中，我了解到他如何建立悠诗诗 咖啡博物馆和咖啡学院、如何帮助改善咖啡种植与销售质量，
Sam Tanadej Kamonchan sam@blueskybooks.net
想知道咖啡、 茶和冰淇淋业内的最新消息， 请参阅
为亚洲咖啡社团服务
www.coffeetandi.com
•
CT&I•SOCIETY
1. D’oro Continues “More Stamps, More Joy” After “Photo Trick with D’oro” Mr. Veradech Somboonvechakarn, Managing Director of The Golden Cream Co., Ltd., organized a special photography activity, “Photo Trick with D’oro,” at the FI-CLUB Studio & Training Center on November 15th, 2008. At the event, Mr. Issara Samuenpo, an editor from FotoInfo Magazine, offered his technical and professional support to visitors interested in improving their photography skills. This was one of the activities within D’oro’s “More Stamps, More Joy” campaign. The campaign improves relations with D’oro’s customers and has returned some profit to the customers. There has been great feedback so far from D’oro members that all are happy. 继“D’oro 摄影艺术”之后，D’oro 推出“More Stamps, More Joy”活动
Veradech Somboonvechakarn 先生是 The Golden Cream 有限 公司的常务董事，2008年11月15日，他在 FI-CLUB 工作室和培 训中心举办了一次特殊的摄影活动，名为“D’oro 摄影艺术”。 在活动中，FotoInfo 杂志的编辑：Issara Samuenpo 先生为希望 提高摄影技术的参观者提供了技术以及专业支持。这次活动是 D’oro“More Stamps, More Joy”的系列活动之一。活动有助于
4. Bluecup’s Champion Trifecta
5. Chester Coffee Renovates Mall Branch
In 2008, Bluecup, the coffee corner in S&P restaurants, was the proud home to three champion baristas: Ms. Luckhana Daoprai (Thailand Barista Championship), Ms. Amorn Boonnao (Thailand Latte Art Championship), and Ms. Sirithai Rungjanthuek (National Thailand Barista Championship). Their accomplishments reflect how much Bluecup’s baristas pay attention to each cup of coffee they make.
November 19th, 2008, Chester Grill and Chester Coffee finished renovating its Ngam Wong Wan branch on the 6th floor of The Mall at the City Walk Zone. The new style seeks to attract a younger generation of consumers. Along with the renovations, Chester revamped its menu, introducing better coffee and two new drinks to celebrate the New Year.
布卡咖啡冠军 Trifecta
切斯特咖啡购物中心分店翻新
布卡咖啡——一个位于S&P 餐厅内的咖啡角，值得骄傲的
2008年11月19日，吉时客（Chester Grill）和切斯特咖啡
是，2008年这里培养出三位咖啡师冠军：Luckhana Daoprai 小姐
完成位于城市步行区商店六楼Ngam Wong Wan分店的翻新。
（泰国咖啡师竞赛）、Amorn Boonnao 小姐（泰国拉花竞赛），
新风格的尝试是为了吸引年轻一代的消费者。除了翻新店面，
以及Sirithai Rungjanthuek 小姐（泰国国家咖啡师竞赛）。她们
切斯特还改善了他们的菜谱，而且特别引进了更好的咖啡和两
的成就反映出布卡咖啡师们对每一杯咖啡极高的关注程度。
款新的饮品，来庆祝新年的到来。
改善 D’oro 与客户之间的关系,同时, D’oro 借这样的机会将部分 利润归还给客户。D’oro 成员已经提供了大量的反馈意见，迄 今为止，所有成员都对活动持满意态度。
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2. Caffè Musetti Master Barista Leads Training Course for Thai Baristas coffee t&i Magazine and the Barista Association of Thailand hosted a training course on espresso and latte art for representatives of Thai coffee houses taught by Italian professional barista Mr. Luigi Lupi from Caffè Musetti. Mr. Lupi is a master barista with more than 30 years of experience. Attendees from coffee companies in Thailand represented The Deli House, Mister Donut, Chester’s Coffee, Black Canyon Coffee, S&P, Oishi (In & Out), McCafé, Au Bon Pain, True Coffee, and several Thai independent coffee houses.
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来自 Musetti 咖啡屋的咖啡师为泰国咖啡师提供培训课程 代表泰国咖啡屋，《咖啡、茶与冰淇淋》杂志和泰国咖 啡师协会主办了一次关于意式特浓以及咖啡拉花的培训课程。 课程由来自 Musetti 咖啡屋的意大利专业咖啡师 Luigi Lupi 先生 主讲。Lupi 先生是一位不可多得的咖啡大师，拥有30多年相关 经验。大部分泰国咖啡公司都派出了相关人员参与培训，他们 分别代表：Deli 咖啡屋、美仕唐纳滋甜甜圈、Chester’s 咖啡、 Black Canyon 咖啡，S&P、Oishi (In & Out)、Mc 咖啡馆、Au Bon Pain、True Coffee 以及几家泰国独营咖啡屋等。
3. CRG Celebrates 200 Branches in Thailand Central Restaurants Group and Mister Donut celebrated the opening of its 200th branch in Thailand. The celebration was held on De3 cember 18th, 2008 at Mister Donut’s Chang Wattana branch. Central Restaurants Group executive, Mr. Teeradej Jirathiwat, and an executive from Japan’s Mister Donuts presided over the event with some of Thailand’s superstars, making donuts together. Approximately 100 guests and suppliers came, some, including K2 Coffee, bringing congratulatory flowers. CRG’s current objective is to renovate their branches to match the concept of its very successful Japanese branches. The renovations will start next year with the aim to create a more warmly welcoming Mister Donut. 中广餐饮集团（CRG）庆祝200个分店入驻泰国 中广餐饮集团和美仕唐纳滋甜甜圈庆祝200个分店在泰国落户、开张。庆典活动于2008年12月18日在美仕唐纳滋甜甜圈 Chang Wattana 分店举行。中广餐饮集团董事 Suradej Jirathiwat 先生和一位来自日本的美仕唐纳滋甜甜圈董事主持了庆典。与此同时， 泰国众多知名明星也参与其中，一起制作多娜圈，为庆典活动增添了更多的热闹与温馨。近100名顾客和供应商出席了庆典，其 中包括K2咖啡，他们为活动献上了喜庆的鲜花。 中广餐饮集团当前的目标是对他们的分店进行革新，使其经营理念与成功的日本分店同步。朝着营造更温馨的美仕唐纳滋 甜甜圈氛围这样一个目标，翻新工程将在明年全面启动。
•
4
5
Coffee Break
During my visit to UCC, I saw a drawer of items for coffee brewing standing in a corner of the office. I couldn’t help asking what this corner was for. One of the UCC staff answered, “the corner is called ‘a coffee station,’ where everyday, one of the staff is responsible for choosing and brewing coffee for all the executives and colleagues in the building.” The nametag of whoever made coffee that morning was placed at the station. It seemed like everybody was waiting for their turn to make the coffee of the day. • In front of the UCC Coffee Museum, there is a not-so-big, brown Godzilla sculpture made of coffee beans. If you happen to visit the UCC Coffee Museum, don’t forget to stop by to say ‘hi’ and take ‘A coffee station’ Brown Godzilla sculpture The first UCC apron a photo with him. • In the UCC Coffee Museum, there is an apron in the showcase on the wall. Taking one step closer, the tag says that this is the first apron used in a UCC coffee house. However, if you want to know what the current apron of UCC is like, you will have to get a cup of coffee at a UCC coffee house and peep at the staff’s apron. 在访问 UCC 的时候，看到他们办公室的角落里立着一个立柜，里面装满了冲泡咖啡的用具，我忍不住问他们这个角落的用途。 UCC 的一位工作人员告诉我说：“这个角落被叫做‘咖啡站’，每天都有一位员工负责为这栋楼里所有的管理人员和同事冲泡 咖啡。”无论是谁，只要早上冲泡了咖啡，他/她的名字就会被写在牌子上，放到‘咖啡站’里。看来,这里的每个人都期待着 轮到自己为大家冲泡“每日咖啡”的那天。
•
在 UCC 咖啡博物馆前面，有一座不太大的、用咖啡豆制成的棕色哥斯拉雕塑。
如果您有机会到 UCC 咖啡博物馆参观，千万别忘了停住 您的脚步，向这个雕塑送上您的问候，并拍照留念。
• 在 UCC 咖啡博
物馆，您会发现一堵墙上的陈列窗内摆放着一块围裙，如果走近观看的话，您会发现它的标签上标明这是在 UCC 咖啡馆里使用
的第一块的围裙。然而，如果您想知道如今 UCC 咖啡馆的围裙是什么样子的，您就得亲自到 UCC 咖啡馆，点一杯咖啡，然后， 您就可以窥看到他们工作人员的围裙是什么样子的了。
•
COVER•STORY
领先一步，在激烈的竞争中脱颖而出： 悠诗诗上岛咖啡公司 (UCC) “Good Coffee Smile”
Ueshima Coffee Company One Step Ahead of the Competitors Spreading “Good Coffee Smiles”
The Ueshima Coffee Company (UCC) has been part of a long history of coffee in Japan. For more than 70 years, this coffee company has upheld the motto, “doing all we can with coffee, doing what only a coffee company can do,” focusing on making quality coffee so that people know exactly where to turn when looking for delicious coffee. coffee t&i had a chance to talk to Mr. Tatsushi Ueshima, president of UCC and the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ), about running UCC. UCC was one of the first coffee roasters in Japan. “My father had been a green coffee trader until we founded UCC in 1933. He then became a coffee roaster whose roasted coffee had a unique, delicious taste. He knew that as a coffee roaster, he had very few competitors in the market, so he was certain that it could be his business.” US General George S. Patton once instructed, “if everyone is thinking the same thing, then no one is thinking.” Mr. Ueshima’s father proved this idea to be true. He identified a new niche within the coffee market. He recognized that canned coffee was not coffee proper, but rather a soft drink. “At the same time, my father also tried to think of new products which could be launched in the coffee market. His aim was to sell coffee to as many people as possible, so he finally came up with the idea of canned coffee. Again, since UCC was the first company who produced canned coffee, there was no competitor. We can say that we created the world’s first canned coffee beverage.” It is well known that once a new product is launched by one company, the same or similar products from other companies will appear in the market a few days later. Therefore, it is possible to be the first, but not the only one who sells a given product. This is one reason why UCC has always followed innovation with dynamism. “When more people became coffee roasters in Tokyo, we realized that we need to think ahead of our competitors. Although UCC’s canned coffee became very successful and had its own market segment, my father and I thought that it was time to enter the coffee house business. It was a major change for UCC, but we knew that we had to make it work.” The first UCC coffee shop, Café Plaza, opened on the 1st floor inside UCC’s original headquarters. It was and still is an American-style coffee shop with a lively atmosphere. Eventually, UCC opened coffeehouses in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Thailand, and Singapore. “The most successful coffee house business of UCC is in Taiwan and Hong Kong. The success depends on the partners. In Thailand, for example, we used to have 33 coffee shops, but today we only have
10 •
4 coffee houses left. This is partly because our partner started to invest in another businesses, so it was not good for us. The business in Thailand is very good and I think other companies are doing very well. At the moment, we are thinking about rebuilding our business in Thailand, but we need a new partner to become successful.” Sustained growth of the coffee industry in Asia is undeniable. The UCC will have to make further steps into coffee circles in new countries if it is to keep growing too. “Coffee consumption is increasing worldwide; however, coffee suppliers are still unstable. I am certain that the growth of coffee business will continue, especially in Asia. In many countries, such as China, India and etc., people drink coffee every morning and the population of these countries is large already. So our targets are still countries in Asia.” Over the past 70 years, trends in the coffee market have been changing and developing. Mr. Ueshima pointed out that one of the most influential factors to account for the changing trends have been the changes in coffee culture.
悠诗诗上岛咖啡公司（UCC）是日本咖啡历史长河中不可或缺的
到我们还不能停住脚步——进军咖啡屋业务的
一个重要组成部分。七十多年来，公司一直坚持这样的座右铭：“在
时候已经来临。对悠诗诗来说，这是一个巨大
咖啡事业中竭尽所能，做一切一个咖啡公司力所能及之事。”把制作
的转变，我们必须实现这个伟大的设想。”
质量上乘的咖啡当作企业经营的最高目标，确保顾客在想喝一杯美味
于是，第一家悠诗诗咖啡店：咖啡屋广
咖啡的时候，便知道在哪儿可以停下脚步。《咖啡、茶与冰淇淋》有
场，就在悠诗诗最初的总部一楼内顺利开张。
幸能就悠诗诗经营方式的问题，采访到悠诗诗上岛咖啡和日本精品咖
它拥有活泼灵动的氛围，无论在当时还是现
啡协会 (SCAJ) 的总裁上岛达司（Tatsushi Ueshima）先生。以下便是这
在，它都是一个美式咖啡店。最终，悠诗诗咖
次交流的简要记录。
啡店在台湾、香港、泰国以及新加坡都开设了
悠诗诗是日本首批咖啡烘焙店中的一员。
分店。
“在1933年成立悠诗诗上岛咖啡公司之前，我的父亲一直是一位
“悠诗诗最为成功的咖啡店开设地要数
咖啡生豆商人。后来他成为一位咖啡烘焙师，他烘焙的咖啡品质独特、
台湾和香港。成功取决于合作伙伴。比如说，
美味可口。他深知在那时，作为一名咖啡烘焙师，他的竞争对手为数不
过去我们在泰国有33个咖啡店，但是现在仅剩
多，所以他确信自己可以在这个行业里开辟一片天地。”
4家。部分原因是由于我们的合作伙伴开始进
美国乔治·巴顿将军曾经说过：“当每个人想的都是同一件事情
行别的生意投资，这给我们带来了很多负面影
的时候，就等于根本没有人在思考。”上岛先生的父亲就亲身验证了
响。我想泰国是一个很好的市场，别的企业在
隐藏在这句话中的真理。他发现了咖啡市场中一个有利可图的缺口。
泰国都得到了很好的发展。目前，我们打算恢
在他看来，罐装咖啡算不上真正的、纯粹的咖啡，而只不过是一种软
复在泰国的业务，但是我们需要新的合作伙
饮料而已。
伴，确保经营取得成功。” 不可否认，咖啡业在亚洲呈不断持续增长 的趋势。如果要保持发展，悠诗诗就必须到新 的国家开发市场，必须进军新的咖啡业务圈。 “虽然全球咖啡消费量正在增长，但是咖 啡供应商的情况却并不十分稳定。我坚信咖啡 业，特别是亚洲的市场将继续增长，比如在中 国或者印度等国家，人们每天早上都喝咖啡， 最重要的是，这些国家人口众多。所以我们的 发展目标是亚洲国家。” 过去70多年里，咖啡市场趋势一直在变化 中发展。上岛先生指出，咖啡文化的变化是影
“Culture has brought about maturity and people have become more openminded. They can accept diversity. For example, in the morning, they can have American-style coffee, then in the office they might have Japanese coffee and later in the afternoon they might have espresso. Every brewing method is still there, but culture somehow mixes them up so that people can enjoy it.” In terms of coffee society, the co-operation in different areas appear to be different and Asia, according to Mr. Ueshima, is very unique in this respect. “In Europe and America, coffee associations in different regions are working independently to promote coffee in particular zones. However, in Asia the coffee associations get together to discuss and work on the promotion of coffee. By working together, all of us are making progress. The results are very clear in the big picture.” Although UCC is regarded as a giant company in the Japanese coffee industry in Japan, for Mr. Ueshima, this is not yet what he considers ‘success.’ “At the moment, I do not consider UCC as a successful coffee company. We are still on our way to success. We have been developing innovative technology in order to improve our products. While the quality of our products is always our top priority, our mission is to be the leader in new creations, such as canned coffee beverages and vacuum-packed coffee. We have to keep moving forward in order to serve our customers’ desires and needs since our ultimate goal is to promote the spread of Good Coffee Smiles.”
响咖啡市场变化的最重大因素。 “当时，我父亲还试图寻找其它能够投放到咖啡市场中的产品。
“文化的发展带来了成熟的观念，人们的
他的目标就是向尽可能多的人销售咖啡，于是最终他想到了罐装咖啡。
思想也越来越开放。他们可以接受多元化的事
悠诗诗再次创造了一个第一：第一家生产罐装咖啡的公司，当时在这个
物。比如说，每天清晨，他们可以享用美式咖
领域还根本没有竞争对手。我们可以自信的宣称是我们公司发明了世界
啡；在办公室的时候，他们可能喝日本咖啡；
上第一厅罐装咖啡饮料。”
到了下午，他们或许会选择意式特浓咖啡。各
众所周之，一旦一个新的产品被某一家公司生产出来以后，类
种冲泡方式都初衷不改，但是文化将它们揉和
似的产品很快就会被其它公司生产、并投入市场。因此，我们可以做
在一起，而人们都已经接受并喜欢这样多元化
到“第一”，但是却无法成为“唯一”，我们无法垄断任何一个产品
的存在。”
的销售市场。这就是一直以来悠诗诗都必须保持活力、不断挑战和创 新的原因之一。 “在东京，当越来越多的人开始成为咖啡烘焙师的时候，我们就
就咖啡社团而言，合作在不同的领域有不 同的表现。上岛先生认为亚洲的合作，就有非 常独特的一面。
意识到我们必须对竞争者进行一些思考和分析。虽然悠诗诗罐装咖啡已 经在市场上占有一席之地，并且取得了很大成功，但是，父亲和我都感
• 11
COVER•STORY
On May 1, 1933, Ueshima Tadao Shoten was founded and 18 years later, on May 28, 1951, Ueshima Coffee Co., Ltd. was established. Since then, UCC has been engaged in wide-ranging business operations centered on coffee with activities that extend all the way from plantation to cup. UCC was the first Japanese company to establish and directly manage coffee estates in coffee-producing countries. In 1981, UCC began the operations of estates, firstly in Jamaica, followed by Hawaii and Indonesia. All of these estates started with one lone seedling. UCC aims to make the connection between the customer’s
In 1981, the city of Kobe hosted the Portopia expo. The Ueshima Coffee Company (UCC) had a pavilion at the Portopia expo that became a museum dedicated to the history and culture of coffee after the expo ended. The six-level UCC Coffee Museum in Kobe, Japan houses all kinds of information about coffee - from history of production methods to coffee’s changing significance within different cultures. By drawing its visitors into a stunning, exceptionally designed environment that celebrates coffee culture, art, history, and legend, the UCC Coffee Museum has been designed and devel-
oped to enhance the pleasure of drinking coffee. • Display Hall 1: How it All Began (Origin) • Display Hall 2: Raised with Tender Loving Care (Cultivation) • Display Hall 3: The Journey Begins (Distribution) • Display Hall 4: It’s All in the Bean (Processing) • Display Hall 5: The Good, Good Taste of Coffee (Culture) • Display Hall 6: More About Coffee (Information) Special Display Hall
UCC 咖啡博物馆
悠诗诗上岛咖啡有限公司 我们的责任是创造“Good Coffee Smiles”
一个咖啡的世界、浪漫与一千多年的梦想之旅
UCC Ueshima Coffee Co., Ltd. Our responsibility is to create “Good Coffee Smiles”
Experience a World of Coffee, Romance, and Dreams of Over 1,000 Years
1933年5月1日，Ueshima Tadao书店成立； 18年之后，于1951年5月28日，悠诗诗上岛咖啡
客的杯子与种植园连接起来。这就是悠诗诗的品 质保证。
UCC Coffee Museum
1981年，日本神户主办了 Portopia 展览会。Ueshima 咖
第一展示厅：咖啡是如何产生的（起源）
啡公司（UCC）在展会中设有一个分馆，会展结束后，这个分
第二展示厅：精心呵护下的生长（栽培）
馆便发展为一个专门为展示咖啡历史、文化而建的博物馆。
第三展示厅：旅程的开始（流通）
有限公司（Ueshima Coffee Co., Ltd.）成立。从那
如今，为了随时随地为更多人提供更多真
时起，悠诗诗（UCC）便一直进行着以咖啡为主
正美味的咖啡，悠诗诗已经覆盖到各个角落和各
坐落在神户的UCC咖啡博物馆，共有6个展示厅，日式建
第四展示厅：所有精华皆在豆中（加工）
的、广泛的业务运作，其活动涉及从种植到冲泡
种场合。无论办公室还是家庭饮用，那些业务范
筑，展出各种与咖啡有关的信息——从生产方式的历史变迁，
第四展示厅：绝美，咖啡的味道（文化）
等领域。
围广泛的咖啡屋和饭店都能为人们提供一杯抚慰
到在不同文化中咖啡重要性的变化等。让参观者们在一个引人
第五展示厅：更多内容（信息）
心灵的咖啡。
入胜、精心设计的环境中，观看咖啡文化、艺术、历史以及传
特别展示厅
悠诗诗是第一家在咖啡生产国建立咖啡种植
12 •
cup and the estates with delicious coffee. This forms the basis of UCC’s quality. From coffee shops and restaurants to offices and homes, UCC represents a wide variety of business models to provide as many people as possible the soulsoothing occasion of enjoying a delicious cup of coffee, anytime and anywhere. At UCC, a “Good Coffee Smile” refers to the smile that spreads across one’s face when one smells the rich aroma of coffee. This smile intensifies when one tastes a delicious coffee beverage. Smile after smile, connected by coffee - this is UCC’s mission.
园并对园地进行直接管理的日本公司。1981年，悠
在悠诗诗，“Good Coffee Smile”的含义是让
诗诗咖啡开始其种植园管理，首先是在牙买加，
咖啡浓郁的芳香把微笑带到人们脸上。当人们品尝
其次是夏威夷和印度尼西亚。所有这些庄园都始
美味的咖啡饮品时，他们的笑容就会越发灿烂。用
于一株独苗。悠诗诗的目标是用美味的咖啡将顾
咖啡将微笑串起来，这就是悠诗诗的使命。
说。UCC 咖啡博物馆已被设计和发展成一个为咖啡的品味更增 情趣的地方。 Open: 10.00 a.m. - 5 p.m. (entrance closes at 4.30 p.m.) Closed: Mondays, days following national holidays, year-end and New Year holidays Admission: Adults, 210 yen. Children (elementary and junior high school), 100 yen. Address: 6-2 Minatojima Nakamachi 6-chome, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650-0046 Japan Tel.: (078) 302-8880
• 13
COVER•STORY
日本精品咖啡协会 有限责任、互利、非营业性机构 Specialty Coffee Association of Japan: A Limited Liability Mutual Benefit Nonprofit “Founded in April 2003, the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan works to spread the enjoyment of delicious coffee and awareness of Japanese coffee culture by liaising with likeminded organizations around the world. Through a wide range of activities to expand the coffee market at a global level, our priorities are the healthy development of the Japanese coffee market and the expansion of consumption.”
及咖啡给人带来的美好享受；同时，通过联系世界各地志同道合的组织， 来提高日本咖啡文化的知名度；通过举办各种各样的活动，来扩大日本咖 啡的国际市场。我们的工作重点是为日本咖啡市场的健康发展保驾护航， 并且促进消费。”
Tatsushi Ueshima President of SCAJ
Fundamental Concept The Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ) raises awareness and deepens the understanding of specialty coffee among Japanese consumers and coffee growers around the world. SCAJ seeks to spread and publicize systematic knowledge of and practices in coffee processes from cultivation to cup and to expand coffee consumption. SCAJ’s fundamental concepts embrace the application of these efforts to further the development of the coffee culture of Japan, the contributions to the global Specialty Coffee movement, the improvement of the natural environment, and standards of living in coffee-producing countries. The Specialty Coffee Association of Japan conducts a variety of activities with the aim of providing coffee drinkers in Japan “a splendid cup of coffee.” SCAJ primary activities include exhibitions, trade fairs, seminars, workshops, Coffee Master training courses, Japan Barista Championship, industry networking, and the sharing of the latest information from international Specialty Coffee conferences and trade fairs overseas.
14 •
“日本精品咖啡协会（SCAJ）成立于2003年4月，主旨是传播咖啡的美味以
日本精品咖啡协会会长：Tatsushi Ueshima
基本理念 日本精品咖啡协会（ SCAJ ）致力于提高日本消费者与全球咖啡种植 者对精品咖啡的认识、加深他们对精品咖啡的了解。精品咖啡协会旨在宣 传、推广从咖啡种植到咖啡冲泡的系统知识和具体实践，以此扩大消费。 协会的基本理念包括：通过上述努力进一步发展日本的咖啡文化、为全球 精品咖啡运动贡献力量、改善自然环境、提高咖啡生产国人民生活水平。 日本精品咖啡协会举办了各式各样的活动，目的是向日本咖啡饮用 者提供“一杯极好的咖啡”。协会的主要活动包括：展览、交易会、研讨 会、讲习班、咖啡大师培训课程、日本咖啡师竞赛、行业联网、国际精品 咖啡会议和海外贸易博览会的最新消息发布。
Contact: Da Vinci Onarimon Bldg. 6-1-11 Shimbashi Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel +81-3-5400-5506 Fax +81-3-5400-5613 info@scaj.org Source: http://www.scaj.org/e/index.html
CAFé•DESIGN
212 BARcode
A Glamorous New York Corner in Bergamo Inspired by the cosmopolitan and glamorous atmosphere of New York City, this modern and elegant concept lounge/coffee shop/restaurant is appropriately named after the city’s telephone area code: 212. This intriguing shop makes a strong impression, attracting and suitable for VIPs and a young, select clientele. Coming into this concept bar, one immediately notices the metropolitan breeze and painstaking minimalism in every detail. Born out of the striking intuition and enthusiasm of Michele Colombo from Colombo Design SpA, the shop suggests a journey of simple and unified experiences through the codes that we find again and again embedded within the simplest and deepest pleasures of daily life. The aesthetic language of the shop was created and coded by Gabrielle Aresi. Thanks to Costa Group’s project and fitting, the existing historical bar in Bergamo was substituted for a New York style corner bar. This shop is installed on two floors and a basement, dominantly characterized by white, molded and modified by a computerized system, changing the colors all over the shop (murphy lights, false ceilings). The lift is embellished by graphics of codes and skyscrapers. The bathroom is a real wonder. Conceived in cooperation with Colombo Design, one can read meticulous refinement and care in the precious detail and choice of materials with which the bathroom was designed.
16 •
Here and there are touches of red to enliven and balance the all white fittings: small skay sofas, corian tables, and resined chairs and cubes. To contrast the interior’s very minimal and modern style, the stone stairs and original banister have been preserved. All the graphics and details coordinate to play on two elements: the code, 212, and the Manhattan skyline. Bar codes and rectangular shapes extend upwards to create the impression of a cityscape. Enormous graphics on plasterboard play along the line of the corian-topped bar counter and partition of the upper floor. Near the entrance, a showcase displays Carolina Herrera’s “212” perfume. The menu also recalls specialty dishes and drinks associated with NYC and other foreign cities. The restaurant opens in the morning to serve tasty breakfasts, particularly a delicious selection of croissants artfully displayed like precious jewels in a glass showcase. Presented on a smart and unique calendar list, the lunch and dinner menus change monthly. The appetizers are always variegated and stylish; theme nights will start in December. Following the best winds of inspiration from around the world, assimilating the pleasures of a superb dining and drinking experience with the symbolic code of New York City, 212 BARcode endeavors to symbolize a lively embrace of cosmopolitanism. 212 BARcode: a new lounge, coffee shop and restaurant located in front of the Donizetti Theater on Sentierone Road in Bergamo, Italy.
Design and Fitting: Costa Group, Arch. Massimiliano Faggioni
212 BARcode Sentierone Rd. 37 24122 Bergamo Tel. 035-428-4646 Hours: Sun. – Thu. 7:00 a.m. – 12:00 a.m. Fri. – Sat. 7:00 a.m. – 2:00 a.m.
它的灵感来源于世界主义氛围以及纽约的城市魅力，恰如其分
码“212”，以及曼哈顿天际线。酒吧号码和常规
地，“212”这个现代化、优雅的概念沙发吧/咖啡店/餐厅，便是以其位
图形朝上方延伸，创造出一个别致的都市美景。
处之地的区号命名的。这个魅力小店通常给人留下深刻印象，它不断满足
纸面石膏板上，无数图案沿着 Corian 的吧台面及
并吸引着贵宾们还有那些极其挑剔的顾客。
与第二层楼的分界线交织缠绕。小店入口处附近，
进得这个概念吧，迎面而来的便是一股城市气息和精雕细琢的极小 派乐风。小店采用一种直观而热情的麦歌哥伦布风格，这种风格是从哥伦
一个陈列窗内摆设着卡罗琳娜•海莱娜“212”系 列香水。
布式设计浴场的启发中孕育而生的。这个小店使人联想到一个简约的旅程
小店菜谱让人联想到纽约以及其它国外城市
与和谐的体验，它的设计主旨，是重现那些我们一次又一次于日常生活中
的特色菜肴和饮品。清晨，小店就开始提供美味的
获得的、最简单却又最深沉的快乐。 作为小店的美学语言，Quid 式的生
早餐，特别是那些犹如华贵的珠宝一样被陈列在玻
活风格就这样被 Gabrielle Aresi 创造和借用了。
璃橱窗内的羊角面包，将是一个美妙无比的选择。
受益于Costa团队的项目支持和设备提供，过去开设在柏加摩的酒吧被
午餐与晚餐的菜谱每月一换，更新的菜肴就列在一
收归到这个纽约风格的角落酒吧旗下。这个店分上、下两层，外加一个地下
个精美而又独特的日历表上。开胃菜通常都丰富多
室，其色调以白色为主，整个店内色彩（墨菲灯、假天花板）完全由一个电
彩；主题夜通常始于十二月。
脑化系统控制。它的电梯完全用号码和摩天大楼的图案装饰而成。 店内洗手间的设计堪称奇观。受哥伦布设计的启发，从选材到装修， 每个细节都经过精打细算，每个环节都经过精雕细琢。 店内，白色的Skay沙发、Corian 材质的桌子、resined 椅和立体闪光 灯等设备，与活力无限的红色搭配在一起，显得十分协调。为了与简单派 艺术和现代化的风格形成对比，店内还采用了石砌楼梯和别出心裁的栏杆 小柱。 有两种元素贯穿于所有的图案和细节之中，它们分别是：号
于全球新风尚的引导下，在这样一个能够代 表纽约文化的地方享用特级晚餐和酒水，将是一 个让人无比难忘的全新体验。“212 BARcode”正 致力于打造并成为一个涵盖世界文化的标志性小 店。 212 BARcode：一个位于意大利柏加摩 Sentierone 路，多尼采剧院前，全新的休闲之所、 咖啡屋及餐厅
• 17
INDY•VOICE
Café De L’AMBRE
Perfect, Old-Beans Coffee for 60 Years Although nowadays most coffee drinkers no longer appreciate the concept of “old beans”, Tokyo’s Café De L’AMBRE has gained renown and popularity over the past 60 years for serving 14 to 19 year-old, high quality coffees. The shop’s amber-orange sign, “Café De L’AMBRE. Perfect. Own Roast. Hand Drip.” provides its customers an idea about what to expect from this traditional Ginza back alley coffeehouse. With the motto, “Coffee Only,” Café De L’AMBRE has been exclusively serving “perfect” coffee since 1948. The café has no milk, no juice, and no sandwiches to offer. Its customers know this well; it is why they come to Café De L’AMBRE. For Ichiro Sekiguchi, the 90-yearold owner, “the perfect coffee refers to a French-style coffee, brewed strong and of a darker roast than coffee commonly served in American restaurants. The deep amber color of coffee is where the shop’s French name, L’AMBRE, comes from.” Upon entering the café, one can tell from the dark wood-paneled walls and linoleum floors that nothing has changed during the past 60 years. The whole atmosphere is comfortable -- dim, but never quiet. “Before opening this café, I was a sound engineer who wanted to have a good cup of coffee. I preferred to drink old bean coffee because aged beans are like fine wine. They develop a fuller, rounder flavor and aroma. My favorite is 30-year-old Cuban beans.” “The value of old beans was introduced through WWII. At the time, Germany was very keen on good, strong coffee, so they demanded the best-quality coffee beans. The beans were imported from Indonesia, but because of the long distance and other difficulties in shipping, Germany decided to ship coffee beans from Indonesia to Japan before sending them to Germany. The beans were stored in a warehouse in Maebashi until the war ended. Germany lost the war and lost the claim to the coffee that had been kept in Japan for years. The beans were found in perfect condition; they were cool, dry and very fine.” When Mr. Sekiguchi understood the merits of storing coffee, he started to stock and age fine coffees. He currently has about five tons of high-quality coffee beans in stock, improving as they age. Mr. Sekiguchi spends most of his days in a snug alcove next to the coffee roasting room where he roasts only 300 grams of coffee beans at a time in order to ensure freshness. “Café De L’AMBRE also sells roasted beans. The beans can be stored up to a month, but should be kept in an airtight container, stored in a dry place, and ground only immediately before use. This is how we maintain the quality of our coffee beans. Poor quality beans will never yield wonderful coffee.” Besides the quality of the beans, another key to Café De L’AMBRE’s success is careful brewing. “Each cup is brewed to order at L’AMBRE and our customers drink only the best.” While waiting for a cup of coffee at
18 •
Café de L’Ambre, one can see how coffee is brewed with cotton cloth filters. The filters are fashioned by cutting and stitching a cloth pouch around wire, which is then attached to brass handles. Mr. Sekiguchi has been studying coffee since he was 15 years old. His years of experience have taught him everything he knows about coffee. “There is no
need to follow the instructions on how to brew good coffee. If you know its nature, then you know how to make delicious coffee.” In today’s competitive coffee market, Café De L’AMBRE still receives a number of customers each day. Mr. Sekiguchi attributes the shop’s success to its commitment to real coffee. “We do not use heavy cream because it overwhelms the flavor of the coffee. In those giant chain stores, their coffees are different from ours, so the customers are also different. We have our own customers and they love real coffee. For me, a place where people can find sugar, milk, etc., is not a real coffee shop.”
INDY•VOICE
虽然现在绝大多数喝咖啡的人已经不再热
必须将它们保存于真空密封的容器内，并放在一个
衷“老咖啡豆(old beans)”理念，但是东京的咖啡
干燥的地方，仅在食用前进行研磨。这就是我们保
屋 De L’AMBRE 却靠出售十四到十九年之久的、高
持我们的咖啡豆质量的秘方。劣质咖啡豆是永远不
品质的咖啡，在六十多年的岁月里美名远扬、流行
可能冲泡出美味的咖啡的。”
不减。咖啡屋琥珀近橙黄色的标语上写着：“Café
除了咖啡豆的质量以外，De L’AMBRE 咖啡屋
De L’AMBRE Perfect Own Roast Hand Drip.”意思
获得成功的另一个重要因素在于细心冲泡。“冲泡
是：“De L’AMBRE 咖啡屋•完美•独家烘焙•手冲
任何一杯，都是为了让顾客喝到最好的咖啡。”在
滤泡。 ”于是，这个传统银座后巷咖啡屋的服务理
De L’AMBRE 咖啡屋等待咖啡的时候，顾客可以观
念就形象地通过标语展现在了顾客面前。
看用棉布滤器冲泡咖啡的整个过程。所使用的滤
遵循“咖啡至上”的格言，从1948年起， De
器非常时尚：一个金属线圈连接在黄铜手柄上；
L’AMBRE 咖啡屋就开始其“完美”咖啡的专项提
而绕着金属线缝成袋状的，便是精心剪裁过的用
供。其它如牛奶、果汁、三明治类的产品在这个
来过滤的棉布块。
咖啡屋是无迹可寻的。当然，顾客们对此早就了 然于胸，这也正是他们光顾这个咖啡屋的原因所 在。九十岁高龄的店主 Ichiro Sekiguchi 认为：完美 的咖啡就是一种法式咖啡，它要比寻常在美国饭店 里提供的咖啡冲泡得更香、烘焙度更深。代表着深 琥珀一样颜色的咖啡，就是以法语 De L’AMBRE 命 名咖啡屋的原由了。 走进咖啡屋，每个人都能从深色的木制护墙 板和油布地板明显看出，咖啡屋的样子和六十年前 变化无异。整个氛围是舒适的——暗淡、朦胧，却 永远门庭若市。 “在开办这个咖啡屋之前，我只不过是一个 想喝一杯好咖啡的录音师。我喜欢喝老咖啡豆咖 啡，因为老咖啡豆就如陈年美酒一样，不仅独具 醇厚、成熟的韵味，而且气味芬芳。我最喜欢的 是长达三十年之久的古巴咖啡豆。” “老咖啡豆的价值是在二战中发现的。那 时，德国人非常钟爱优质的、味道浓烈的咖啡， 所以，他们要求咖啡豆达到最上乘的质量。他们 的咖啡豆是从印度尼西亚进口的，但由于远程运 输和船运的种种困难，德国人于是决定将咖啡豆 从印度尼西亚运到日本作为中转之后，再运到德 国。战争结束以前，他们的咖啡豆便一直被储藏 在日本前桥市的一个仓库里。随着德国战败，他
从十五岁起，Sekiguchi 先生就开始了对咖啡
们也失去了一直储藏在日本的咖啡豆的认领权。
的学习和研究。如今他对咖啡的了解，正得益于多
这些咖啡豆重见天日时，不但没有出现发霉、变
年经验的积累。“根本没有必要从说明书或者食谱
质等情况，而且所有咖啡豆仍然温度适中，完美、
上去学怎么冲泡一杯好的咖啡。一旦知道了咖啡的
无可挑剔。”
本质，您就能冲泡美味的咖啡。”
当 Sekiguchi 先生了解到储藏咖啡的价值之
在如今竞争激烈的咖啡市场，De L’AMBRE 咖
后，他便开始储藏并陈化优质咖啡豆。目前，他
啡屋仍然每天客源不绝。 Sekiguchi 先生将咖啡屋
有近五吨的特制咖啡豆在存，这些咖啡豆正随着
的成功归于他们一直遵守提供真正的咖啡的承诺。
岁月的流失而价值倍增。
“我们从不添加很多奶油，因为这样会夺走咖啡
Sekiguchi 先生把大量的时间都花在咖啡烘焙
的原味。大型连锁店里的咖啡和我们的咖啡是不
屋隔壁的一个舒适的凹室里。他在这个地方进行咖
一样的，所以我们的顾客也就截然不同。我们拥
啡烘焙，为了保证咖啡的鲜纯与色质，他将每次烘
有自己的顾客，我们的顾客喜爱真正的咖啡。于
焙的咖啡数量控制在300克。
我而言，一个可以找到糖、牛奶等等的咖啡屋根
“De L’AMBRE 咖啡屋同时出售的还有烘焙咖 啡豆。这种咖啡豆的储藏期可达一个月之久，但是
20 •
本不是一个真正的咖啡屋。
NANATASSANA
“An organic farm, properly speaking, is not one that uses certain methods and substances and avoids others; it is a farm whose structure is formed in imitation of the structure of a natural system that has the integrity, the independence and the benign dependence of an organism.” - Wendell Berry, “The Gift of Good Land.”
Around the year 2000, the specialty coffee industry made a conscious shift from acknowledging emerging concepts in sustainable coffee such as Fair Trade, Shade-Grown and Certified-Organic to a formal acceptance and even endorsement of them. The Specialty Coffee Association of America went so far as to adopt the term “Sustainable” into both its dialogue and mission statement. Some basic understanding of these concepts is useful in engaging and educating your customers, exploring emerging markets, or analyzing purchasing philosophy and strategy. While much has been written about these vari-
of the keys to everything wrong with modern civilization...the NPK mentality serves as a shorthand for both the powers and limitations of reductionist science.” (The Omnivore’s Dilemma, p.146) As Rodale and others in this budding organic movement popularized Howard’s concepts, the new, technologized agriculturalists ridiculed them. Organic farming was relegated to the Luddites, the “back-to-the-landers” and hippies who were just ‘out of touch with truly advanced modern science’. Welcome to the Green Revolution. In the 40s, this “green” movement was about highly mechanized, chemically based agriculture with high yield seed varieties. The Green Revolution greatly affected traditional coffee growing areas by supplanting heirloom cultivars with hybridized coffee seeds such as Catimor, Catuai, & Variedad Colombia. The U.S. government was certainly one of the most vigorous proponents of the Green Revolution and asserted this through aggressive subsidization programs both domestically and internationally.
An Organic Primer By Elizabeth Whitlow Inman and Mark Inman
ous environmental and social programs in the press and trade publications, often the message has focused on the negative. Writers and critics decry potential weaknesses within certification programs and lament how mainstream acceptance of certified products will lead to inevitable degradation of standards (i.e. “walmartization”). They complain that the various sustainable forms of agriculture have negligible environmental benefits, do not address taste quality nor guarantee a more nutritious product.
A Brief History Many in the US attribute the nascence of organics to Joe Rodale when he started the magazine Organic Gardening and Farming in 1942. Rodale was highly influenced by Sir Albert Howard (1873-1947), a British research scientist who is largely attributed as the heart and soul of the modern organic movement. His classic organic text, An Agricultural Testament (1940), is a must-have in the library of any organic enthusiast. In this work he emphatically and repeatedly contends the health of soil, plant, animal and human is one and indivisible. Researchers contend that Howard dedicated himself to debunking the 1840 paper, Chemistry in its Application to Agriculture, by German scientist Justus von Liebig. Essentially Liebig theorized that plants only require the macro-elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K from the periodic table). Hence, no matter the derivation, synthetic or natural, the delivery of NPK was the only essential input for healthy plants and higher yields. To be sure, there is a direct correlation between “NPK” and increased yields, but can the natural world in its myriad complexities be reduced to three simple letters? Can soil eventually become a sterile medium in which these three elements do all the heavy lifting? Clearly Michael Pollan doesn’t agree, “to read Howard is to begin to wonder if it might not be one
22 •
Another outspoken “NPK” advocate (also credited as the Father of the Green Revolution) was Norman Borlaug. In the recent December 9th issue of the Economist magazine, Borlaug asserts as a ridiculous notion that organic farming is not better for the environment. He alleges that because organic agriculture produces lower yields, more land than how much conventional agriculture needs is required to produce the same amount of food. Today, the environmental destruction to soil, water and air combined with the ill effects on human health wrought by overuse of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides are undeniable. Borlaug’s technical assessments and contentions fall on many deaf ears among successful organic farmers and sustainable agriculture researchers (see suggested reading list) who hold that the exact opposite is true AND provide the hard data to refute the Borlaug camp. Throughout these early years, organic farmers seemed content to remain outside mainstream agriculture with its newfangled hightech production strategies based on synthetic chemical compounds, heavy equipment and petroleum. The organic movement grew from within as farmers markets, food cooperatives and alternative food systems sprang up around the country. With the release of Rachael Carson’s novel, Silent Spring, a scathing report on the effects of DDT and other stories of environmental degradation during the 1970s, the demand for organic foods increased. California was a hotbed region for organic agriculture for various reasons - year round farming, strong agricultural base, liberal consuming public, etc. - and therefore the logical place for the Rodale Institute to try its first organic certification program in the early 1970s. This was initiated as a response to allegations of fraud in the marketplace. The sole criterion adopted for certification was a 3% minimum of humus content in the soil, verified by independent lab
tests. Because most of the growers of this first trial run were based in California, this first certification program quickly evolved into its own institution, California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), founded in 1973. Once CCOF was formed, other groups quickly followed suit. By the end of 1974 there were over 11 certifying bodies defining and regulating organic agriculture under the auspices of Rodale, Inc. As the market flourished, organic distributors and marketers needed a legal definition of what “organic” meant, in an attempt to bring legitimacy to their cause. After many false starts the first Organic Food Act was completed in 1979. This act provided a formal definition of the term, but did not include regulations to enforce it. The rapidly increasing demand and consequent allegations of fraud prompted the state to add some teeth to the legislation, thereby resulting in the California Organic Food Act of 1990. This version allowed regulatory oversight to organic claims. It is important to note that the definitions and standards required arduous multi-stakeholder discussions and negotiations to develop. This act, taken largely from CCOF’s guidelines and standards, was widely adopted in the U.S., ultimately becoming the platform for the Federal Act under which we now operate. The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) and the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) now oversees the current organic program. The NOSB is composed of representatives from consumer
groups, farmers, processors, environmentalists, livestock representatives and more.
Quality of Cup / Quality of Life With a widely shared preference for organic produce, meat and dairy among well-regarded chefs in this country, it still boggles the mind that within the coffee industry, organic coffee is often thought to be inferior in quality. To be fair, the roots of this assumption are rational and logical: a large portion of the early farmers to convert to certified organic status were either peasant farmers too poor to afford inputs (natural or chemical) and therefore farmed on malnourished soil, or were passionate “back to landers” who were driven more by mission rather than the desire to produce a true specialty product. Most lacked access to quality-oriented buyers in the United States, Europe and Japan, and many times fell victim to “industry experts,” various NGO’s and International Aid agencies who pushed high yield/ more commercial, hybrid cultivars over the much more coveted “heirloom” cultivars of Bourbon and Typica. Meanwhile, larger, well-capitalized estates possessed what seemed to be every tool necessary to guarantee success: Often, they spoke the language of the coffee buyer (English, German, Japanese), understood what buyers preferred (heirloom cultivars, peaberries, certain preps, etc.) and they either owned or had access to state of the art milling facilities as well as fully functional cupping laboratories, allowing buyers the ability to create specific, customized lots. They could employ the assistance of top agronomists, offer internships to students from around the world, access grants and sources of capital at reasonable interest rates and were savvy on market fluctuation and price. It should be no wonder why many of the original top ranking coffees in the Cup of Excellence and similar competitions as well as
on websites like Coffee Review, were of this camp. Similar to the early years of organic agriculture in the U.S., organic coffee was viewed as a fringe movement without significant demand. But a few savvy estate owners (Café Mesa de los Santos, Fazenda Santa Terezhina, Lomas al Rio) did see organic as an emerging and lucrative market and soon found themselves as considered pioneers in the industry. But time has changed and so have many market conditions that kept the organic specialty coffee movement at bay. Both cooperatives and estates readily embrace many concepts of sustainable agriculture. More capital, agronomical assistance and student internships have become accessible to smaller farmers and cooperatives. Green coffee buyers have access to cupping laboratories and to farmers from all segments of the industry while farmers have much more access to market information, emerging trends and niche markets through increased Internet access. To summarize, in recent years, the playing field has been virtually leveled.
Is Organic Ready for Prime Time? Now farmers of all shapes, sizes, political persuasions and organizational structures are gaining top spots in these cupping competitions and achieving high scores on coffee rating websites, yet a bias persists. Why is it that the coffee industry is so late in understanding that organic agriculture can produce a truly specialty product? Why is it
that top baristas are not demanding organic coffees in their espresso blends as top chefs demand organic ingredients in their dishes? The demand for overall organic products has risen at roughly 20% every year for the last 13 years (Some sectors such as dairy and meat have risen much more sharply). As awareness of high quality organic coffee continues and more premium organic coffees become available to U.S. buyers, hopefully, the acceptance by the leadingedge coffee industry-retailers and baristas will grow as well. Who will be the first barista to win the WBC with an all-organic blend? Who will be the first barista to sign a sponsorship deal with an organic brand of coffee milk or chocolate? Who will become the next Alice Waters in coffee? That story has yet to be told...
7 CFR 205 National Organic Program Standards Organic production: A production system that is managed in accordance with the Act and regulations in this part to respond to sitespecific conditions by integrating cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity. Not bad for a working legal definition! There is something in this sentence for everyone and especially for certifiers to uphold the fundamental principles of a sustainable, organic system. NOP certified growers must have been striving to achieve these goals at all times. The standards are broken into numerous subparts, each relevant to the components of a well functioning organic farm and include sections on soil fertility, seeds, crop rotation, pest, weed & disease management.
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NANATASSANA
ensures a continuous food source for these microbes. Research indicates that one-teaspoon of compost rich organic soil hosts between 600 million and 1 BILLION beneficial microbes from over 15,000 species and over three miles of fungal hyphae. On the contrary, one teaspoon of chemically treated soil can host as few as 100 microbes. Other obvious benefits of building rich organic soil is the reduction in soil compaction, run-off, erosion and nutrient loss. • 205.204 Seeds and Planting stock All producers must seek organically grown seeds and transplants. Due to wide commercial unavailability of organic seed and plant stock, growers are also allowed to use untreated varieties. In the case of coffee farming, many coffee growers propagate their own seeds within their grower co-ops or communities. Seed saving is practiced widely within the organic farming community and fully accepted under NOP guidelines.
• 205.201 Organic Production and handling system plan The Organic System Plan (OSP) is the most comprehensive glimpse into a farmer or processors’ operation. The OSP leaves no stone unturned. Any layperson should be able to look at an OSP and gain a complete understanding of how an operation meets its organic compliance requirements to maintain organic integrity. This document is unparalleled among comparable certification programs (RA, FT, SMBC, etc). The details depend on the size and level of complexity of each operation. The OSP is used as a guiding document for annual inspections and considered a legally binding contract between certifier and organic client. • 205.202 Land Requirements A certified operation must be able to prove their land has had no prohibited substances applied for a period of 3 years prior. They must further show distinct boundaries and provide adequate buffer zones for any adjacent conventional farming activities. For example, certifiers regularly ask to see hedgerows in place where there is concern for potential drift from nearby pesticide applications or runoff diversions to prevent unintended application of a prohibited substance. • 205.203 Soil Fertility and Crop Nutrient Management (a) The producer must select and implement tillage and cultivation practices that maintain or improve the physical, chemical and biological condition of soil and minimize soil erosion. (b) The producer must manage crop nutrients and soil fertility through rotations, cover crops, and the application of plant and animal materials. This is one of the most critical sections on production and ensures that certified operations are not simply operating under an ‘organic by benign neglect’ scenario. Producers have a responsibility to not simply deplete and profit from a piece of land, but enrich their soil and employ sound land stewardship practices. Soil is the basis for all healthy plants, farms, food and therefore, humans. Healthy, rich soil is most crucial in organic agriculture because it cannot be artificially maintained or stimulated as the conventional counterpart. It should consist of minerals, rock, water, air, organic matter, and microorganisms (including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, insects and worms). An intricate web of decay, rebirth, and replenishment by microbes maintain long-term soil fertility. Organic matter in the soil
24 •
• 205.205 Crop Rotation Practice This is another critical component of a healthy, well-run organic farm. The NOP rule is clear on this requirement. Annual crops must not be grown in the same block of land repeatedly. Crops must be alternated with green manure or cover crops so that soil matter content is improved. With a perennial crop such as coffee (likewise in grape vineyard and orchard crops), growers must implement cover crops in between rows or encourage natural vegetation to flourish in between rows. • 205.206 Crop Pest, Weed and Disease Management First and foremost, a grower should be attempting to control pest problems through physical and cultural methods. This includes a number of strategies from good sanitation of disease vectors, removal of weed seeds, Integrated Pest Management methods (hedgerows or other beneficial plants that attract diversity, the release of beneficial insects, etc), non-synthetic lures, traps, or repellents, mulching, and hand controls just to name a few. If these methods are inadequate, producers may look to the NOP National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances (205.600-605) or to the Organic Materials Review Board’s list. Most of the allowed & restricted materials are plant or mineral based controls, and although that does not necessarily make them benign or harmless, they must be applied in a way that does not cause accumulation in the soil. The discussion of material use in organic systems is long and can be contentious. There is a valid fear of widespread adoption of an input substitution model using NOP allowed materials, without the application of ‘real’ organic principles. Certifiers can always point to the sections above §205.203 and §205.205 or the legal definition of organic production in order to bring a certified operation into compliance.
Mark Inman is the President of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) and the President and co-founder of Taylor Maid Farms, a certifiedorganic herb farm and coffee roaster based in Sebastopol, California. Elizabeth Whitlow Inman is the California Certified Organic Farmers regional service representative. www.taylormaidfarms.com
“一个有机农场，确切地说，并不是一个使用某些特定方 法和物质，不使用某些特定方法和物质来经营的农场；而是整
的一个速记，用来为还原主义科学的强势与局限做个记录。” (The Omnivore’s Dilemma, 第146页)
体构造都是出于对大自然生态系统的一个模仿的农场。以这样
罗戴尔和其他研究人员在这次有机农业运动萌芽之际推
的方式创造一个可以无为而治，却绝不代表可以袖手旁观、任
广了霍华德的理念，一些浅薄的农学家对他们嗤之以鼻。有机
其发展的有机环境。”
农业者被归为从未接触过先进现代科学的鲁德分子、“回到田
——温德尔•白瑞 (Wendell Berry) “The Gift of Good Land.”
园运动成员”以及披头士。他们高呼着“欢迎加入到绿色革命 中来”的口号。但在四十年代，这个“绿色”运动是依赖高度
2000年前后，精品咖啡产业受新兴理念的启发，作出
机械化和化学种子的多样化来达到高产的农业。这个绿色革命
了一个有意识的转变，提出了可持续咖啡发展的新理念，于
极大的影响了传统，造成的结果是咖啡种植区用卡地摩、卡杜
是，公平贸易、荫下栽种、授权有机咖啡开始成为正式接纳
艾、变种哥伦比亚这些杂交咖啡种子来取代传统的栽培变种。
的条款，甚至是一种保证。美国精品咖啡协会竭尽所能，将
美国政府理所当然地成为绿色革命运动的支持者，他们的支持
“可持续”这个理念采纳到他们的会议交谈和目标宣言中。对
通过在国内和国际颁发进取津贴的方案体现得淋漓尽致。
这个概念做一些基本理解，将有利于吸引顾客、方便您对顾客
Norman Borlaug 是另一位直言不讳的“NPK”拥护者（也
进行指导、发现潜在市场，或有助于采购理念和策略的分析。
被公认为“绿色革命之父”）。在最近一期，也就是十二月九
很多发表在新闻报纸或者商贸出版物上的文章都为这些多样化
日发行的《经济学家》杂志上，Borlaug 发表了一个很荒谬的
环境和社会项目做出了介绍，但是这些评论通常注重的都是负
观点，他断言有机农业根本无法改善环境。他的理由是有机
面消息。作者和评论家们谴责认证程序中潜在的缺点，并认为
农业的产量很低，用地却很多；生产同等数量的粮食，用地
认可、认证产品将引起必然的标准退化（如“沃尔玛化”），
量却比传统农业生产用地量还要多。然而，Borlaug 没有提到
他们对此感到无比悲哀。他们抱怨多样化的可持续农业形式不
的是，现今过量使用合成肥料、杀虫剂和除草剂是造成土壤、
但不会对环境有任何改善，而且根本无法保证提供真正美味和
水和空气等环境破坏的原因，也是造成对人类健康有不良影响
更有营养价值的食物。
的无可非议的重要因素。所以，Borlaug 浅薄的评估和论点成了 许多成功的有机农业主的耳旁风，可持续农业研究员（参看推
简短的历史回顾 许多美国学者将有机学的起源归功于乔•罗戴尔（Joe
荐读物目录）也抱以相反意见，而且他们都可以提供硬数据来 驳倒 Borlaug 的论点。
Rodale） ，主要因为他于1942年创办了《有机园艺与农业》杂志
在早年岁月中，有机农业农民手握以综合化学化合物、笨
(Organic Gardening and Farming)。罗戴尔深受英国研究员，
重的设备和原油为基础的新潮技术生产策略进行经营和生产，
也是现代有机化学运动的灵魂人物----艾伯特•霍华德先生
看上去似乎都满足于置身农业主流之外。后来，从一个农业市
(Albert Howard 1873-1947) 的影响。艾伯特•霍华德有一篇很优
场，到食品消费合作社，再到替代食品生产系统，有机农业运
秀的文章，题为《农业的宣言》 （An Agricultural Testament） ， 写
动悄然波及到整个国家。1970年，伴随着 Rachael Carson 的小
于1940年，此书是图书馆和有机学热衷者的“必备之物”。在
说《寂静的春天》（Silent Spring）的出版，伴随着一个严厉的
这部著作里，他反复强调并主张土壤、植物、动物和人类的健
关于滴滴涕的报道以及其它关于环境恶化的故事的发表，人们
康虽然无形，但却是无法可分割的。
对有机食品的需求开始猛增。
研究人员认为霍华德试图批判一篇德国科学家 Justus von
加利福尼亚成为有机农业的温床，其中存在很多原因：常
Liebig 写于1840年名为《化学用品在农业中的使用》的论文
年耕作，坚实的农业基础、民主消费等等，所以，在1970年，
(Chemistry in its Application to Agriculture) 。Liebig建立了一个
该地便成为罗戴尔研究所的第一个有机农业认证项目基地。这
理论，认为植物只需要宏量元素氮、磷、钾（化学周期表上
个研究所的成立，刚开始只是出于对 “有机农业是市场上的一
的 N, P, K）。所以，无论是NPK的衍生物、天然物或合成品，
个骗局”的想法的一个回应。当时唯一采用的认证准则是土壤
NPK资源的输送是唯一与植物健康和高产密切相关的重要因
中腐殖质的含量至少要达到3%，由独立的实验测试核验。因为
素。不得不承认，NPK与增加产量的确有直接的联系，但难
第一次试验中的绝大多数种植者都居住于加利福尼亚，所以第
道真的可以将自然界中像金字塔一样复杂的秘密用三个如此
一次认证项目很快就发展成了一个独立的研究所：加洲认证的
简单的字母诠释吗？难道可以相信土壤最终不过是一个植物
有机农民 (CCOF)，成立于1973年。
发芽、结果的介体，而功劳却要归于这三个元素的催化作用？
CCOF 成立之后，其它团体也无不马首是瞻。直至1974年
很明显，Michael Pollan 是持反对意见的，他说：“读霍华德的
底，十一所以上的认证机构在罗戴尔的赞助下确立并开始管理
时候就是应该开始思考的时候，或许这并不是真正答案，不能
有机农业。市场红火起来以后，有机农业经销商和市场经营者
用来解释那些现代文明所带来的错误—— NPK 只能作为意识上
迫切希望能够从法律角度得到一个“有机食品”的定义，他们
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NANATASSANA
这样做的目的是试图将合法性带到他们的经营中来。几经波折
快，他们就成了业内先锋。
其它类似项目（RA, FT, SMBC 等）相比可谓史无前例。文件的
之后，第一份《有机食品生产条例》终于在1979年修订成功。
时代变化以及市场行情的千变万化，使有机精品咖啡运
不同细节又由每一个生产经营的规模和复杂性而决定。OSP 被
这个条例为“有机食品”提供了一个正式的定义，但是它并没
动仍然倍受牵制。但可喜的是，合作社与种植园都欣然地接受
当作一份年度检查的指导性文件以及一份介于认证者和有机产
有包含具体的实施章程。由于有机农业的迅猛增长，让一些赝
了可持续农业的许多理念。更一流的农业援助和学生实习活动
品客户之间的具有约束力的法律合同。
品和欺诈行为有机可乘，增强法治力度就势在必行，于是， 《加
已经扩展到了比较小的农场和合作社。咖啡生豆买主可以走进
利福尼亚有机食品生产条例》于1990年出台。这个版本的条例
杯测实验室，直接与业内的所有部门农产者交流；同时，通过
允许对有机农业所有权实行自觉监管。值得注意的是，“有机
网络，经营农业者也可以得到更多的市场消息、时下动态和有
一个已通过认证的生产、经销商必须能够证明他们的土
食品”的定义和标准的发展要靠多方利益攸关者的努力探讨和
利可图的市场缺口。总而言之，近年来，市场已经升级，到处
地在第一次有机农产品成熟的前三年内不曾使用禁用物质。他
共同商议。这份条例很大程度上参照了美国CCOF认证的指导
一片海阔天空。
们必须进一步证明在有机生产与常规生产的区域之间有明显的
方针和标准，并且于美国广泛采用，它最后成为我们现在实施 的《联邦法案》的政治纲领。现代有机项目目前由美国农业部
§205.202土地要求
界线和足够的隔离区。比如说，认证者通常会要求查看在相关
有机农业是否已做好进入“黄金时段”的准备？
地段设置灌木篱墙的情况，确保能够有效阻挡、隔离那些因邻
和美国有机标准委员会监管。美国有机标准委员会是由顾客、
如今各种形态、规模大小、政策信条和组织结构的农会
农民、农产品加工者、环境问题专家和家畜饲养者等多方代表
都能在杯测竞赛中亲临现场并且在咖啡排行榜网站上获得很
组成的。目前，有95名特派认证者（55名本国认证者；40名外
高的分数，竞争中已经不存在任何偏见。可为什么咖啡产业
国认证者）代表联邦政府颁发客户基础许可证、授予“有机食
对“有机农业能够生产出真正的精品咖啡”的理念会这样犹
品”这个名称的使用权。
豫不决呢？为什么顶级咖啡师在配制意式浓缩咖啡的时候，
(a) 生产者必须选择并执行可以保持或者提高土壤本身含
对有机咖啡的需要就根本没有特级厨师们在烹饪时对有机食
有的天然、化学和生物成分的，或者能够减少土壤侵蚀的耕作
物的需要强烈呢？
和栽培技术。
杯中物的质量 • 生活的质量
近区域农药的使用而产生的潜在漂积物，还有径流等无意中带 来的禁用物质。 §205.203土地肥力和作物养分管理实践标准 且国家有机工程（NOP）指导条例上也接受这样的做法。 §205.205轮作实践标准
出于对有机产品共同的偏爱，国内倍受尊敬的厨师已经
在过去13年里，有机产品的总体需求每年大致增长20%，
(b) 生产者必须设法通过土地轮作、覆盖作物、作物营
这是与健康、良好经营的农场息息相关的另一个重要因
广泛接受并采用有机肉类和奶制品，但咖啡产业内仍然迟疑
其中，以奶制品和肉类的需求量增长最为迅猛。随着对高质有
养以及动、植物性原料的使用来保证作物营养、维护土地肥
素。NOP 对这一点有相当明确的规定。绝对禁止重复使用同一
和踌躇不前，有机咖啡常被认为是质量低劣的产品。公正地
机咖啡意识的增强、更具诱发力的有机咖啡在美国上市，希望
力。
块田地进行一年生农作物种植。农作物必须与绿肥植物或者覆
说，这个猜想的根源是很合理也很符合逻辑的：很大一部分有
有机咖啡能够越来越被前沿的咖啡业零售商和咖啡师接受。谁
这是在生产和确保认证经营过程中最具决定性的一个环
盖作物交替耕种，以提高土质。多年生的植物，譬如咖啡（又
机农业的现状是，并不富裕的农民尚无能力承担需要投入的资
将成为世界咖啡师竞赛中第一位以全有机混合咖啡参赛的咖啡
节，它并不是单纯地在“无为而治达到有机”的方案下执行
如葡萄园和兰科植物），种植者必须在行与行之间培植覆盖植
金（无论是天然的还是化学生产），所以他们一直还在已经失
师？谁将成为有机咖啡、牛奶或者巧克力的保荐人？而谁，又
的。生产者有责任不单一损耗或者从一块土地上获利，他们
物，或者助长自然植被来丰富行与行之间的营养。
去营养价值的土壤上耕种。还有那些激情洋溢的“回归田园的
将成为咖啡界的另一位爱丽斯•渥特斯（Alice Waters）呢？
必须增加土壤肥力、实施良好的土地管理措施。土壤是一切
成员们”，其实是被使命和任务驱赶着回归自然，而并不是出
一切还有待分晓……
于对生产真正的特制产品的渴望而付诸行动。在美国、欧洲还 有日本，很多注重品质的买主都无法找到购买途径，他们一次
7 CFR 205 国家有机工程标准
健康植物、农田和食物，当然也是人类生存的基础。健康、肥
§205.206作物害虫、杂草和疾病管理实践标准
沃的土壤是有机农业生产的决定性因素，因为它无法像传统对
首当其冲的是，一个种植者必须努力以物理防治、耕作
照物一样通过人为手段保持或者促进。它必须包含矿物质、岩
防治等方法着手控制害虫。这包含很多措施，例如使用良好的
又一次地落入“企业顾问”的陷阱；另外，比之商家梦寐以求
有机产品生产：一个针对位点特异情况、按照相关法案与
石、水、空气、有机质和微生物（包括细菌、真菌、原生物、
卫生设备、消除病媒生物、除去野草种子、病虫害防治综合术
的“传家宝”一样的波旁和帝比卡的栽培品，很多非营利性机
规章来管理和操作，靠实现耕作、生物学以及机械实践的统一
昆虫、和蠕虫）。长期的土壤肥力的保持，是由微生物的衰
（设置灌木篱墙或者种植其它天敌植物来消灭杂类植物，或者
构与国际援助机构更推崇能够大量生产的混合栽培变种。
和一体化来促进资源循环周期、提高生态平衡、实现生物多样
退、再生、补给这样一个复杂的生态循环完成的。土壤里的有
减少天敌昆虫）、诱杀、陷阱、驱虫剂、地面覆盖物、手动控
性守恒的生产体系。
大型的、资本雄厚的产业看上去具备了各种为成功保驾
机质是微生物持续的食物供给来源和保障。研究表明，一个茶
制等等，不一一列举。如果这些方法还不够，生产者可以参阅
护航的工具：通常，他们精通咖啡买主的语言（英语、法语、
这不愧是一个实用的、合法的定义！不仅阐明了每个参与
匙量的混合营养有机土壤富含着来自一万五千多个物种，和长
NOP《允许在有机作物生产中使用的合成物质清单》(205.600-
日语），他们了解买主的偏爱（传家宝栽培变种、单豆咖啡等
者必须遵守的规则，而且为认证者提供了一个可持续的有机系
达三英里的地衣中含的六百万到近十亿有益微生物。然而，一
605) 或者《美国有机资材审核协会清单》。绝大多数允许或者
等），而且他们定然有极为便利的人工研磨设备、功能齐全的
统认证基本准则。国家有机工程规定，种植者必须时刻为实现
个茶匙量的化学处理土壤仅含一百种微生物。培养营养有机土
被禁止使用的物质都是基于对植物或矿物的控制，虽然这些并
杯测实验室，可以满足买主的各种需求。他们能够得到最好的
以上所述目标而奋斗。同时，这些标准被分成许多规则，每条
壤的另外一个显著益处就是能够减缓土壤紧凑、流失、腐蚀以
不能完全达到有益健康或者无害的效果，但的确能够避免有害
农学家的帮助，为全世界的学生提供实习机会，以合理的利率
规则都与如何运作良好的有机农业息息相关，这些规则包括了
及营养的流失。
物质在土壤内的积累。关于能够在有机系统中使用的物质的争
提供一流的产品和资源，对市场和价格波动随时保持敏锐的
土地肥力、种子、轮作、害虫、杂草以及疾病的管理。
洞察力。毋庸置疑地，在顶级咖啡比赛或类似比赛中，在像 Coffee Review 一样的网站上的那些一直名列榜首的咖啡都有这
论是漫长而难以定论的。真正让人担心的并不是 “真正的”有 §205.204种子和苗木实践标准
§205.201有机生产和处理系统的计划
机条例的遵守与否，而是对 NOP 允许使用材料偷梁换柱般广泛
所有生产者必须寻找有机生长的种子和移植苗木。由于有
进行输入代替模型使用。为了使认证经营符合标准，认证者经
样的出身。和早年出现于美国的有机农业一样，有机咖啡被视
有机生产和处理的计划 (OSP) 是对一个农人或农产品加工
机种子和苗木的商业出售尚未得到广泛推广，种植者也可以使
常强调经营者注意条例中的§205.203 和 §205.205，以及法定
为次要的市场活动，并没有重要的销路。但是洞察力很强的业
者的生产经营做出的最全面的诠释。OSP 想方设法地尝试，希
用未处理过的品种。譬如，在咖啡种植中，许多咖啡种植者与
的有机产品的定义。
主（Mesa de los Santos 咖啡屋、Fazenda Santa Terezhina, Lomas
望使外行人在看到 OSP 的时候，都能够对一个生产经营如何才
他们的合作者或者社团之间就经常进行种子繁殖。使用繁殖出
al Rio）便将有机咖啡视为新兴的，而且有利可图的市场，很
能够达到其有机要求、保持其有机完整了然于胸。这份文件与
来的种子进行生产在有机农业生产团体中也是极为常见的，而
26 •
• 27
SPECIAL•REPORT
Japan is the third largest coffee importing country in the world after the USA and Germany. Once stereotyped as a predominantly green tea drinking culture, Japan has proven itself as one of the most thriving coffee cultures in the world. The popularity of coffee in Japan is, perhaps surprising to some, not a consequence of Starbucks’ global influence; from the late 1870s, Japan started and steadily increased its import of coffee. The volume of imported coffee reached a peak with a coffeehouse boom in the late 1930s before a complete collapse as a result of the trade embargo during World War Two. Shortly after the end of the war, Japan resumed importing coffee, and in the early 1980s, the sale of coffee began to exceed that of green tea both in terms of volume and yen spent annually per household. Coffee has left an indelible mark on Japanese consumer culture; its value in Japan is locked. Japanese coffee culture has changed noticeably since the 1980s, however, and will most likely continue to evolve. Leading up to the economic bubble in 1989, the number of coffee shops in Japan ballooned, forecasting a very unique, Japanese café culture that would not dwindle anytime soon. After the economic bubble burst – with the deflation and recession to follow through
Japan’s coffee market is growing and is expected to grow the most: instant, packaged, bottled and canned coffee. From 2002 to 2006, Japan’s coffee market increased by 7.5%. Instant coffee grew by 8%. Canned and bottled coffee beverages grew by 9%. Packaged coffee for home use grew by 10%. And coffee sold in the food service industry – in coffeehouses, restaurants, etc. – increased by only 4%. The convenience and affordability of conventional coffee packets and canned coffee appeal to the changes in Japanese consumer culture; people want to save money where they can without giving up the things they enjoy. Although all four segments of the coffee market are experiencing growth, the canned and bottled coffee segment of Japan’s coffee market enjoys the lion’s share of the market (around 30%) and is expected to continue maintaining this lead into the future. Rising from approximately 70 to 105 thousand tons of coffee between 1994 and 2008 sold annually, the industrial use of coffee has grown more rapidly than other segments of the Japanese coffee market. During the same time span, the volume of coffee sold for home use has grown from approximately 47 to 76 thousand tons, while the volume sold
Coffee Market Trend in Japan
2008年10月12日，悠诗诗上岛咖啡公司 (UCC) 主办了一
再度增长。
个以“日本咖啡市场趋势”为主题的研讨会，发布从1994年到
该协会的统计还表明，在同一时间段中，每周“在咖啡店
出稿之际，他们对日本咖啡市场发展趋势以及消费行为的观察
内消费”的咖啡杯数已经从1983年的每周1.2杯，减少到2008年
报告。下文是对大会讨论内容的一个简要概括与分析。
的每周0.44杯——大约是15年前在店内喝的咖啡数量的三分之
居美国与德国之后，日本是世界第三大咖啡进口国。虽 然在大多数人眼中，日本是一个典型的以绿茶饮用和绿茶文
一。致使咖啡消费总体增涨的原因，是人们在家、在学校或者 在其它地点每周喝的咖啡数量比以前增加了2.76杯。
化为主导的国家，但不可否认的是，日本已向世界证实了其
这份统计报告表明，在日本，人们的咖啡消费、生活方
鼎盛的咖啡文化。咖啡在日本受欢迎的程度或许已经达到惊人
式以及喜好出现了：从公众咖啡屋到自家厨房、从意式特浓
的地步，而这，却不是“星巴克全球影响”的结果。1870年年
咖啡吧到自动饮料机这样一些戏剧性的变化。为了省钱，人
底，日本开始咖啡进口，也是从那个时候起，日本的咖啡进口
们减少了关顾咖啡屋和餐馆的次数，但是勒紧裤带并不意味
量便不断增长。1930年年底，随着咖啡屋的涌现，咖啡进口量
着他们会放下杯子。
到达一个顶峰。后来，由于二战期间的贸易封锁，带来了巨大
咖啡销售量的趋势显示出日本咖啡正在发展的、并且将
的损失，也造成了商业的彻底崩溃。战后不久，日本恢复咖啡
出现最大增长的环节：速溶、袋装、瓶装以及罐装咖啡。从
进口。20世纪80年代初，无论销售量或是每年每户日元的消费
2002年到2006年，日本咖啡市场增长了7.5%。速溶咖啡增长
量，咖啡的数量都开始逐渐超过绿茶。咖啡在日本消费文化里
8%。罐装和瓶装咖啡饮料增长9%。家用袋装咖啡增长10%。 食品服务行业，譬如咖啡屋、饭店等销售的咖啡仅增长了4%。 常规袋装咖啡不仅方便而且实惠。而罐装咖啡的出现又正好与 日本消费文化的变化相呼应：既节省了开支，又能享受到自己 喜欢的饮品，何乐而不为呢？ 在日本咖啡市场里，虽然四个环节都各有增长，罐装咖啡 和瓶装咖啡这两个环节却享有市场的最大份额(约30%)，而且预 计还将继续保持它们的领先地位。比起日本咖啡市场的其它环 节，特别是食品服务类的销售趋势，工业使用咖啡销售量增长 最为显著、迅猛，1994年到2008年，从每年7万吨左右增长到每 年约10万5千吨。在同一时段，家用咖啡销售量从4万7千吨左右 上升到7万6千吨；食品服务业方面的销售量却不断波动，虽然 最终在最近几年里有所增长，却才增加不到2000吨。虽然食品 服务业这个环节的销售量没有明显增长，但是小规模、独营咖
the early 90s – coffee shops and other small businesses started disappearing as quickly as they sprouted in the previous decade. The economic turmoil and slump in the quantity of coffee shops did not prevent the eventual growth of the Japanese coffee market. Since the establishment of the All Japan Coffee Association (AJCA) in 1980, there has been more than a two-fold increase in the quantity of coffee imported to Japan. The AJCA estimated that from 1983 to 2006, the average cups of coffee/person/week consumed in Japan increased from 8.5 cups to 10.59 cups. Despite a precipitous decrease in coffee imports in the early 90s, the market started to grow again rapidly nearing the end of the decade and continues to the present. The AJCA concluded that the number of cups per week consumed in coffee shops to have in 2008 decreased to .44 cups from 1.20 cups per week in 1983 – nearly a third of how much was drunk in coffee shops fifteen years ago. To account for the overall increase in consumption, the number of cups either had at home, school, or other locations increased by 2.76 cups per week. This statistic suggests a dramatic shift in Japanese coffee-consumer lifestyle and preferences: from cafes to kitchens, from espresso bars to dispensing machines. People stopped frequenting coffee shops and restaurants as much to save money, but tightening the belt did not mean dropping the cup as well. Trends in coffee sales volume illustrate in which segments
28 •
within the food service industry fluctuated and finally grew within the last few years by no more than two thousand tons. Instead of demonstrating a clear growth of sales volume within this sector, the food service industry has witnessed a decreasing number of small, independent coffee shops substituted by an increasing number of coffee shops run by large franchises. Despite the statistics, Japan is home to a vibrant, dynamic coffee culture, not to mention some of the world’s best baristas and most innovative coffee shops. Even though Japan imports more coffee than all but two countries in the world (USA and Germany), its annual consumption of coffee per capita is strikingly small (340 cups/year/person compared to Finland’s 1202 or Germany’s 586 ). There is great room for growth in the Japanese coffee market. A recent study conducted by the AJAC shows that more consumers would chose to drink organically grown (33.2% of surveyed consumers) and environmentally friendly (29.9%) coffees before considering its taste, roast, or brewing technique used. Consumers in Japan - and worldwide - have in recent years started to consume not strictly along the lines of taste, but rather increasingly along preferences rooted in personal ethics, a product’s image, and/or concern for personal and environmental health. How these changes in consumer preferences might affect attitudes towards large franchises, and how those franchises adapt to their consumers’ changing preferences, will shape Japan’s coffee market in the future.
啡店已逐渐被日益增多的大型特许联营店取代。 留下了不可磨灭的印记;其价值将被铭记在人们心中。从二十世
撇开统计出来的数据不谈，日本不仅培养了众多世界一流
纪八十年起，日本的咖啡文化便显示出明显的变化，这些变化
的咖啡师、开办了许多创新的咖啡店，它还是一个充满活力、
还可能会愈演愈烈。
生机勃勃的咖啡文化发源地。虽说除了美国和德国以外，日本
1989年，众多原因导致了泡沫经济的产生，日本的咖啡屋
咖啡进口量几乎超过了世界上所有国家，但是其人均每年咖啡
数量开始激增，这预示着日本拥有非常独特的咖啡屋文化，而
消费量仍然少得可怜（日本人均每年340杯；芬兰：1202杯；德
且这种文化不可能在短时间内有所缩减。泡沫经济破灭之后，
国：586杯）。日本咖啡市场仍存在巨大的发展空间。据全日
随之而来的便是90年代初的通货收缩和工商业的衰退。同其它
本咖啡协会所做的一个最新研究表明，有越来越多的消费者选
规模较小的商业经营一样，咖啡屋开始撤离市场，它们的消失
择有机咖啡（占被调查者的33.2%）以及环保咖啡（29.9%）。
如同十年前的出现一样，速度十分迅猛。
先前，咖啡爱好者更为关注的是咖啡的味道、烘焙，或者冲泡
虽然经济的动荡和衰退对咖啡屋的数量有了很大的影响，
中所使用的技术——近几年来，日本以及全球的消费者已经不
但却没能阻止日本咖啡市场的最终发展。自1980年全日本咖啡
把口味当作消费的唯一准则，而开始将自己的喜好越来越多地
协会(AJCA)成立以来，日本的咖啡进口量增加了两倍。据该协
植根于个人道德、产品形象或者对环境卫生以及个人健康的关
会估计，从1983年到2006年，日本每人每周饮用咖啡的平均数
注上。消费者个人喜好的变化可能会影响到他们对大型特许联
量从8.5杯增加到10.59杯。除了90年代初出现过咖啡进口量的
营店态度的变化，而这些联营店为适应顾客的变化所做出的转
急转直下以外，从2000年末到现在，日本咖啡市场已经开始
变，又将对日本未来的咖啡市场造成巨大影响。
• 29
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HOT•BEV
In the midst of winter, let’s welcome this coming Valentine’s Day with special hot lattes and Italian sodas to warm you up. In this issue, coffee t&i will fulfill your Valentine’s Day with great tastes and aromas. May your Valentine’s Day be full of love and warmth.
Roasted Almond Latte
Preparation
1. Pour DaVinci Coconut Syrup and DaVinci Banana Syrup into an 8 oz. cup 2. Add freshly brewed espresso 3. Add steamed milk 4. Top with foamed milk
1. 在容积为8盎司的杯子中倒入达芬奇
将到来的情人节，希望下面介绍的特殊
饮品：热拿铁和意大利苏打能够为您带
3. 倒入蒸牛奶
淋》将让您的情人节香气弥漫、秀色可 人节！
Roasted Almond Latte The rich taste of coffee and intense roasted almond aroma from this latte will keep you warm.
中下怀。
1. Espresso shot 30 cc 2. DaVinci Roasted Almond Syrup 7.5 cc 3. Pasteurized milk 120 cc
Preparation
Sweet New Year Latte
配制
和糖浆混合在一起
3. 加入双份浓缩咖啡
The Sparkling Lover This red, sweet, and sour Italian soda is guaranteed to sweeten your Valentine’s Day.
Ingredients
1. Mix DaVinci Banana Syrup and DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup 2. In a 16 oz. glass, mix pasteurized milk and the syrup 3. Add a double shot of espresso
1. DaVinci White Chocolate Sauce 30 cc 2. DaVinci Coconut Syrup 15 cc 3. DaVinci Frappease Powder 2 tbsp 4. Crunchy Almond 2 tbsp 5. Pasteurized milk 90 cc 6. Ice 16 oz.
Ingredients
地气泡将带给您凉爽与清新的享受。
Ingredients
来一抹暖阳。
糖浆
2. 在一个16盎司的玻璃杯内将巴氏牛奶
香蕉的幽香与达芬奇蓝橙糖浆嘶嘶跳动
Preparation
这杯牛奶与香脆的杏仁冰沙或许能够正
高度烘烤的杏仁，香气弥漫，为寒冬带
还将让您领略到一种非常独特的味道。
For those wary of coffee, this milk smoothie with crunchy almonds just might change their hearts. 对咖啡饮品怀有谨慎之心的人，
这杯拿铁，咖啡味道浓厚，经过
1. 混合达芬奇香蕉糖浆和达芬奇蓝橙
White Almond Frappè
Besides the eye-catching color of this iced latte, you will also experience a very unique taste. The smell of banana and the fizz of DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup will give you a cool, fresh feeling.
1. Espresso shot 60 cc 2. DaVinci Banana Syrup 15 cc 3. DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup 7.5 cc 3. Pasteurized milk 120 cc 4. Ice 16 oz.
4. 在顶部加上奶泡
餐。祝您拥有一个充满爱意、温暖的情
1. Pour DaVinci Roasted Almond Syrup into an 8 oz. cup 2. Add freshly brewed espresso 3. Add steamed milk 4. Top with foamed milk
椰子糖浆和达芬奇香蕉糖浆
2. 加入新鲜冲泡的浓缩咖啡
来一份温暖。本期的《咖啡、茶与冰淇
配制
除了醒目的颜色以外，这杯冰拿铁
配制 正值隆冬，让我们一起迎接即
BB Iced Latte
红色、甜中带酸的意大利苏打为您 温馨而又甜美的情人节锦上添花。
Ingredients / ส่วนผสม
1. DaVinci Rose Syrup 15 cc 2. DaVinci Strawberry Syrup 7.5 cc 3. DaVinci Peach Syrup 7.5 cc 4. Soda 150 cc 5. Ice 16 oz.
BB Iced Latte
Preparation
1. Mix DaVinci Rose Syrup, DaVinci Straw berry Syrup, and DaVinci Peach Syrup 2. Pour the mixed syrup into a glass full of ice 3. Fill up the glass with soda 配制 1. 将达芬奇玫瑰糖浆、草莓糖浆和蜜桃
糖浆混合在一起
2. 将混合好的糖浆倒入装满冰块的玻璃
Preparation
杯中
1. Add all the ingredients into a blender 2. Blend and pour into a 16 oz. glass
3. 向杯中倒入苏打
配制
The fizz of sweet soda and the scent of rose and raspberry will compliment a romantic atmosphere on your Valentine’s Day.
Tender Rose Soda
1. 糖浆混合在一起，倒入冰沙机中 2. 启动冰沙机搅拌，完成后倒入杯中
嘶嘶冒泡的甜美苏打、玫瑰花香再
1. 将达芬奇烤杏仁糖浆倒进一个容积为
加上木莓的芬芳——为您的情人节营造
8盎司的杯子
2. 加入新鲜冲泡的浓缩咖啡
一份完美的浪漫情怀。
3. 倒入蒸牛奶
Ingredients / ส่วนผสม
4. 在顶部加上奶泡
Drinks created by Umaporn Hutthawong
Sweet New Year Latte For lovers of sweet coffee, the scents of DaVinci Banana and Coconut Syrups in this latte will bring a smile to your face.
Photo by Chavamon Boriboontanawat Written by Prapaporn Rungkajonwong
对于爱好甜咖啡的您来说，这杯拿 铁中达芬奇香蕉和椰子糖浆的香甜将把
Sponsored by
微笑带到您脸上。
32 •
Preparation
The Sparkling Lover
Tender Rose Soda
1. Mix DaVinci Rose Syrup and DaVinci Raspberry Syrup 2. Pour the mixed syrup into a glass full of ice 3. Fill up the glass with soda 配制 1. 混合达芬奇玫瑰和木莓糖浆
Ingredients
1. Espresso shot 30 cc 2. DaVinci Coconut Syrup 5 cc 3. DaVinci Banana Syrup 5 cc 3. Pasteurized milk 120 cc
1. DaVinci Rose Syrup 15 cc 2. DaVinci Raspberry Syrup 7.5 cc 3. Soda 150 cc 4. Ice 16 oz.
2. 将混合好的糖浆倒入装满冰块的玻璃
White Almond Frappè
杯中
3. 向杯中倒入苏打
• 33
ICED•AID
现在在泰国，几乎任何地方都能买到Gelato意式冰淇淋，其流行之 势真可谓锐不可挡。本期的《咖啡、茶与冰淇淋》记录的是与苏玉风小姐 的一次交流，苏小姐是Gelato最新连锁店 Gelatoni（Black Canyon 旗下的一
Create a Colorful Daily Life with New Homemade Gelato, Gelatoni
个子公司）的管理人。
Gelatoni 的出发点
就是合适之选。比较关心健康问题的顾客会更中意 无糖果子露，其中，要数草莓最受欢迎。
Gelatoni 的诱惑 Gelatoni 的魅力主要来源于其独特的产品品 质。Gelato 冰淇淋十分柔软、细腻，冰淇淋中几
Black Canyon 目前的经营范围主要是食品和饮料，重点是咖啡。由于
乎找不到任何气泡。它用纯天然水果和果汁制成，
业务的发展，Black Canyon 计划对菜谱和服务内容进行增加和补充。最终，
所以顾客可以尽情享受源于自然、营养丰富的冰淇
他们认为冰淇淋业最有发展前景，因为冰淇淋深受不同年龄层次顾客的欢
淋——这与美式冰淇淋截然不同。新的顾客很可能
迎。加之泰国地处热带地区，气候炎热，冰淇淋业的发展空间相当巨大。
在尝过 Gelatoni 冰淇淋后就变成这里的常客。 Gelatoni 从意大利进口高品质原料，而且原料
Gelato, or Italian-style ice cream, has become very popular and can be found very easily in Thailand nowadays. coffee t&i had the opportunity to talk with Ms. Withara C. Pong, manager of the new gelato chain, Gelatoni, a subsidiary of Black Canyon Coffee.
都针对每一个订单新鲜制作而成。小店可以说是一 个小型厨房，顾客可以观看每一个制作细节。
我们锁定的顾客群
Gelatoni at the Starting Point
我们的顾客层面很广。绝大多数是青少年还
Black Canyon’s business currently operates within the food and beverage industry, focusing on coffee. As it develops, Black Canyon will expand its menu and offer a wider variety of products. Black Canyon identified the ice cream business as a promising market because people from all generations and ages love ice cream. Moreover, Thailand is a hot, tropical country, and the ice cream business still has a long way to grow. When Black Canyon decided to enter the ice cream business, it opted for gelato instead of ice cream because of its current popularity in Thailand. The shop is named “Gelatoni” after the Italian word for gelato, which means a big scoop of ice cream.
和 Caffe Nero 就可谓功不可没，因为它们通过分店
Number of Branches
宣传，让顾客知道了 Gelatoni。同时，Gelatoni 也
At the moment only one Gelatoni store located at Esplanade operates independently. The other 25 branches are included as ice cream corners inside Black Canyon Coffee and Caffe Nero branches found mostly in Bangkok.
Concept and Design At Esplanade, Gelatoni creates a colorful and lively atmosphere. Its logo is written in multi-colored letters on a pink background. The store exhibits an Italian modern design to compliment the ever-trendy gelato. The walls are decorated with photographs of Italy, creating a bright, lively and comfortable atmosphere for customers. The menu carries the Italian aesthetic further by labeling its gelato creations after names of famous places in Italy, such as “Pisa Tower,” “Waffle in Rome,” and the “Colosseum.” Gelatoni also emphasizes healthy and low-fat products for health conscious consumers.
Products and Popular Items Gelatoni offers Italian-style low-fat gelato in a variety of flavors, such as lychee, rambutan, and mango. For chocolate lovers, Chocolate Rocher and Dark Chocolate are very popular. Health conscious customers enjoy no sugar-added fruit sorbets, particularly the strawberry.
Gelatoni’s Attraction The attraction of Gelatoni is the quality of its unique
34 •
有上班族。每逢节假日，一些很大的家庭也会光临 这里。另外，刚做完运动的人也是这里的常客。如 今顾客对食物和健康的关注越来越多，所以我们的 产品很容易便被市场接受了。
挑战 Gelato 冰淇淋业面对的市场竞争非常激烈， 这个牌子还很新。Gelatoni 必须更为有效地让顾客 对这个牌子耳熟能详。在这一点上，Black Canyon
products. The gelato is very soft and smooth because there are hardly any air bubbles in the ice cream. The gelato is made with real fruit and juice so customers can enjoy rich and natural ice cream flavors; this is totally different from American-style ice cream. Most newcomers who try Gelatoni’s ice cream will likely become regular customers. Gelatoni imports a high-quality gelato base from Italy and every order is freshly prepared. The store can be compared to a small kitchen where the customers can observe the preparation.
Target Customers We have a variety of customers. Most of them are teenagers and working men and women. On holidays, we usually receive big families. In addition, there are also those who come out after exercise. Today’s customers pay more attention to their food and their health, so our products are well received in the market.
Challenges The gelato business is very competitive and the brand is still very new. Gelatoni must introduce its brand effectively to its target customers. What helps is that Black Canyon Coffee and Caffe Nero introduce Gelatoni to the customers through its branches. Gelatoni also advertises via other means, such as television and magazine advertisements. In the mean time, Gelatoni must work to keep developing its products in terms of both quality and tastes so it can offer more choices to its customers.
Future Plan At the moment, Gelatoni is not yet ready to expand its business beyond the walls of Black Canyon Coffee. This year Gelatoni will open five new shops inside branches of Black Canyon. In addition, Gelatoni will offer many new ice cream flavors and will introduce redesigned packaging to make their products look livelier.
当 Black Canyon 决定进军冰淇淋业的时候，他们并没有选择一般的
积极地通过其它途径开始自我宣传，例如电视、杂
冰淇淋作为卖点，他们敏锐的察觉出 gelato 在泰国受欢迎的程度，并以此
志广告等。另外，Gelatoni 还必须提高自己的产品
作出选择。新店改名为“Gelatoni”，源于意大利语中的“gelato”，意思就
品质和口味，为顾客提供更多可选之品。
是“很大的一勺冰淇淋”。
未来计划 分店数目 目前，只有一个独立的 Gelatoni 店位于 Esplanade。其余大多数分店都 分布在曼谷各处的 Black Canyon 店内或者 Caffe Nero 的分店里。
目前，Gelatoni 还没有做好靠 Black Canyon 的 支持来扩展业务的准备。今年还会有五个 Gelatoni 店在 Black Canyon 的分店内开张。另外，Gelatoni 还将提供更多全新的冰淇淋口味，而且还将重新设
理念与设计.
计它们的包装，使产品看上去更加生意盎然。
位于 Esplanade 的 Gelatoni，笼罩在一片缤纷的色彩和生动活泼的氛 围中。店标由彩色的文字写成，背景色为粉红。为配合时髦的 gelato 冰淇 淋，店内采用的是十分现代化的意式设计。店内墙壁由意大利照片装饰而 成，为顾客营造出一个明亮、活泼、温馨的氛围。 菜单上的 gelato 都以意大利的名城胜地命名，其中就不乏：“比萨斜 塔”、“在罗马的私语”、“罗马竞技场”等等，这些名称无不显示出对 意大利美学的延伸。针对那些比较关注健康问题的顾客，Gelatoni 特别准 备了健康、低脂肪的产品供他们选择。
产品及热门产品 Gelatoni 提供口味众多的意大利风格 gelato 低脂冰淇淋，比如荔枝、 红毛丹，还有芒果。对于喜欢巧克力的人来说，巧克力 Rocher 和黑巧克力
• 35
TEA•TIME
In this issue, Tea Time is taking you to a modernstyle Chinese tea shop where, among other things, you will be particularly impressed by the ambiance. It is our pleasure to have a chance to interview Mr. Liu Hanjie, the founder of Chun Shui Tang.
Chun Shui Tang at the Starting Point
I am a tea drinker and I prefer to make my own pot of tea at home. Before I opened Chun Shui Tang, I had been a teacher. I have conducted a number research projects on Chinese culture and written a book about varieties of Chinese tea, their origins, their types and various brewing techniques. The making of my tea shop was like the making of a movie. Just as a movie begins with a screenwriter, the concept of my tea shop originated from the book I wrote. At that time, I realized that the book was very well written, so I thought, “Why don’t I
she steps into one of our shops. This is the reason why our customer base -- adults who are familiar with hot tea and younger crowds who prefer iced tea -- is very broad. Our customers are both men and women, 2040 years old. However, we tend to serve more females than males.
Products and Recommendations
There are a number of drinks offered in our teahouse, all of which are equally popular. Our customers have their own favorite drinks and tend to order the same things every time they visit. For the last 25 years, the number of drinks on the menu has never decreased. We also have special drinks for the seasons, such as kiwi tea for the summer and tomato red tea for the winter. We recommend our tea lattes. They are made with steamed milk, mixed with tea, and are quite special.
Chun Shui Tang
春水堂: 美味茶汤·精致茶食
A Nice Cup of Tea in a Modern Chinese Atmosphere
open a tea shop of my own?” I transformed those words into a reality. The first Chun Shui Tang was opened in my hometown, Taizhong. Many people might think the tea business is not worth investing in, but since there are countless types of different teas, I believe that a tea business can be successful.
Chun Shui Tang’s Strategies
In the past, Taiwanese people drank only hot tea. Nobody added ice or sugar. However, the new generation does not like pure tea because it finds traditional tea tasteless and too hot to drink during the Taiwanese summers. Consequently, hot tea does not sell well nowadays. In response, I have started to use the British’s red tea to make iced tea. Red tea can be mixed with different kinds of ingredients to create very enjoyable tastes. We blend red tea, sugar, milk and juice to make smoothies. My teahouse started in 1983. Since then, we have divided our drink menu equally between hot drinks and cold drinks. My business has become very successful. Some customers stand long waits in a queue just to buy a cup of tea from us.
Target Customers
Because we offer a variety of drinks and continually create new menus, I am certain that each customer is able to find at least one drink she would love once
36 •
Customers’ Behaviors
It is well known that tea is a part of Taiwanese people’s daily life; if they do not drink it, they feel like they have missed something. Younger tea drinkers, however, do not like traditional style hot tea because the taste is not strong enough for them. Nowadays, tea menus have multiplied by adding sugar, milk, flavors, nuts and tapioca pearls to tea. Despite this recent trend in tea culture, there are still those who love hot tea. The varieties of tea have attracted people’s attentions, and the number of traditional tea drinkers is increasing.
Branches and Design
Chun Shui Tang opens a new branch every year. Today, there are 25 branches in Taiwan and one branch in Shanghai. We plan to open more there in the future. However, we are not as concerned with the size of our company as we are with the quality of our products. Most of our customers are knowledgeable about tea drinking, so we emphasize quality maintenance over growth. Besides selling tea, we offer excellent service and an authentic atmosphere. Our customers can sit down, relax and chat in our tea shops. There are modern Chinese decorations, such as flowers and lanterns, which facilitate the tea culture we are trying to create. Nothing in the shops indicates western culture or influence. Alu-
minum and metal are hardly to be found. We choose locations where people can find parking spaces easily, get together and feel relaxed under the shadows of big trees.
Obstacles and Solutions
It is normal to encounter obstacles in any business, especially at the starting point. There are a number of competitors and their shops are all around us. Sometimes, they try to win our customers over by offering cheaper prices. For example, if one of our products costs 12 yuan, a similar product of theirs might cost 10 yuan. However, we never think about reducing the prices. We offer high-quality products, so our costs are higher. Even though we even have had to raise our prices at times, many of our competitors have closed their shops while we have done very well.
Overview: Tea Market in Taiwan
Chinese people have been drinking tea for more than 5,000 years. In Taiwan, the history of tea began more than a hundred years ago. Therefore, it is not surprising to know that Chinese people are familiar with tea drinking culture. They drink tea the way others drink
water or coffee. We never have to worry whether the customers will visit our shops, but we have to make sure that we have enough staff to take care of them. I believe that the tea market in Taiwan can still grow. It just depends on how businesses are operated. Business owners need to find their own ways of how they’d like to conduct business, but at the same time they need to meet the standards consumers expect.
Words for Newcomers
People might think that becoming a part of this market is easy, but that is not the case. You might be able to enter the business, but once you are up and running, there are numerous details to deal with that require a specialist’s knowledge. You have to make a tremendous effort to pay undivided attention to what you are doing. If you want to open a tea shop, you need to have a clear vision of your tea shop’s identity in order to succeed. If you want to have a tea shop to kill time, this is not the industry for you. It is a big investment. You may have to spend 300,000-500,000 dollars in initial costs that you will not get back in a short period of time. So if you want to have a tea shop of your own, you should carefully think about it beforehand and then focus intensely on the business at hand.
本期的“茗茶时间”带您参观的是一个现 代风格的中式茶馆，那里的环境和气氛会给您留 下深刻的印象。非常有幸能够采访到“春水堂”的 创办者刘汉介先生，以下为您呈现的就是关于采 访的记录。
创办“春水堂”的出发点 我是个喜欢喝茶的人，我特别喜欢喝自己 在家里泡的茶。在开“春水堂”之前，我是一个 老师。我曾做过一些关于中国文化的研究，写过 一本书，叫《中国茶艺》。书里专门介绍了中国 的茶，包括它们的起源、品种、以及各种冲泡技 术。我开茶馆就像拍电影一样。拍电影前通常都 有人先写出剧本，然后照着剧本开始拍摄，我开 店的理念其实都是我书里写过的内容。那时，我 觉得这本书写得非常好，所以我想：“为什么不 自己开一个茶馆？”所以我就把书里写到的内容
都实践了。“春水堂”的第一个店就开在我的家 乡——台中。很多人可能认为茶馆生意根本不值 得投资，但是因为茶的品种实在太多了，所以我 相信茶馆生意是一定能够做好的。
“春水堂”的经营策略 过去，台湾人只喝热茶，从来没有人往茶里 加过冰或者牛奶。但是，年轻人不是很喜欢喝原汁 原味的茶，他们觉得这样的茶没有味道，而且热茶 也不适合在夏天的时候喝。理所当然的，如今热茶 并不好卖。作为一种应对方式，我开始用英国的 红茶制作冰茶。因为红茶包容性大，可以加很多 不同的东西来调制各种可口的味道。比如，我们 就常在红茶里加糖、牛奶和果汁来做特别饮品。 我的茶馆是在1983年开起来的，从那时起，我们 的茶谱上就分别列出热饮和冷饮两个不同大类供 顾客选择。我的生意很红火，很多顾客通常要排 很长的队才能从我的店里买到一杯茶。
• 37
TEA•TIME
我们的顾客群
文化或者受西方文化影响的东西在我们的店里是找不到
因为我们提供的茶品种很多，而且还在不断地推
的。钢铁和合金的东西也很少运用在店内装修上。增加
陈出新，所以我相信每一位顾客来到店里都至少可以
新店的时候主要选择的是方便停车的地理位置，还有那
找到一种他喜欢的饮品。我们顾客的基本情况是这样
些有树木、比较休闲的地方。
的：上年纪的热衷热茶；年轻的喜欢冰茶——年龄层次 很广。顾客年龄范围大概在20到40岁之间，而且，女性 顾客的数量要比男性顾客数量多。
经营上的障碍和解决办法 做任何生意都会遇到难题，特别是在起步的时 候。我们的生意红火起来以后，就开始有很多竞争者，
产品和推荐品
他们的店就开在“春水堂”附近。有时他们靠降价的方
我们茶馆提供很多种饮品，每一种都很受欢迎。
式来吸引顾客。比如说，一个产品，如果我们卖12元，
我们的顾客都有自己喜欢的茶，而且每次他们来的时
他们就卖10元。但是我们从来没有想过降价，我们的产
候点的都是同样的东西。在过去的二十五年里，茶谱上
品质量好，当然价格要贵很多。我们不但没有降价，甚
没有删除过任何一种饮品。根据季节的不同，我们还推
至有时还加价。很多的竞争者最后都关门了，我们的生
出了很多特殊饮品，比如奇异果茶，它比较适合在夏季
意却还一直很红火。
喝；番茄红茶则适合在冬天喝。
我们推荐的是我们的拿铁茶。这种茶的制作方法 是，把奶泡与茶混合 ， 非常独特。
纵观台湾茶市 中国人喝茶的历史已经有五千多年了，在台湾， 喝茶的历史也超过一百多年。所以，中国人对茶文化
顾客消费行为
是非常熟悉的。他们喝茶就像喝水或者喝咖啡一样。我
众所周知，茶是台湾人生活的一部分；如果不喝
们根本就不用担心顾客是否会来我们这里，但是我们一
茶，人们就感觉好像差了点什么。年轻人不喜欢喝传统
定要确保有足够的员工，照顾到每一位顾客。我相信台
热茶，因为他们觉得这种茶没有味道。现在，茶谱已经
湾茶市会有很大的发展，但还要看经营者怎么经营、管
变得很丰富了，因为有了加糖、加牛奶、加各种果味、
理。经营者要找到适合自己的方式，但是同时要考虑如
加坚果、加西米的茶。但是不管时下流行的是什么茶文
何才能达到顾客的要求、满足他们的期望。
化，总会有热衷热茶的顾客。在多元化的茶吸引顾客的 同时，喝传统茶的顾客也有增无减。
寄语后来者 很多人可能以为开茶馆是件容易的事情，但事实
分店和设计理念
38 •
并非如此。可能开店是件简单的事情，但经营的时候
“春水堂”每年都增开一个分店。现在在台湾已
你就必须处理各种各样的细节问题，这需要很多专业
经开了二十五个分店，还有一个分店设在上海。我们计
知识。你不得不在你的生意上投入很多精力。如果要
划开更多分店，但是，我们真正注重的不是店的规模，
开一家成功的茶馆，你就必须对你的茶馆有个明确的
而是我们产品的质量。绝大多数的顾客都是懂得喝茶的
定义。如果开茶馆的目的是为了消磨时间，那么最好
人，所以我们必须以质量为主、规模为辅。
不要开，这个行业不适合你。开茶馆需要很大投资，
除了提供好茶以外，我们茶馆的其它特色就是服
可能在起步的时候就要投入30到50万美元，这些钱一时
务上乘、氛围极佳。顾客可以在我们的店里闲坐、休
半会儿是赚不回来的。所以，如果你要开一家自己的茶
息、聊天。店内采用很现代的中式装修，为了配合我们
馆，就必须事先考虑清楚；而一旦店开起来，就专心、
试图创造的茶文化，店内还增加了一些花和灯笼。西方
认真地经营好它。
BARISTA•TALK
Liesbeth Sleijster 3rd Place in 2008 WBC Something as basic as making a cup of coffee changed my life. It has been four months since I placed 3rd at the World Barista Championship last June in Copenhagen. It seems like yesterday and at the same time it feels like a year ago. I started working in a café, The Blonde Pater, in 2005. When people ask me about when I became a barista, I tell them this is where it started. But my passion for coffee really started at the age of four when my mother first introduced me to coffee (with a lot of milk and sugar, of course). In 2001, I had some coffee experience in a ‘real’ coffeeshop before coming to the Blonde Pater in Amsterdam. I made coffee, but at that time we had never heard of the term, barista. The coffee was roasted in the shop, and we were given the opportunity to make blends to take home and taste. At the time, this seemed like nothing special. Upon reflection, however, I can see how it contributed to my success as a barista. Now I can look back on three amazing years. It started with just making espressos, but there were so many other very important things in the coffee making process to learn: preparing, watching, smelling, tasting, and changing -- constantly adjusting. After a while and a lot of coffee down the drain, I discovered chocolate in my espresso for the first time. From that moment on, taste really started to have meaning; taste has depth and carries content. I have always been an enjoyer of life, but now I could really taste life. From the moment you learn to taste, you find out that everything has flavor. A couple of weeks ago I was at Monin, the syrup factory in France -- a very cool experience. We could taste everything, including products that where unknown to me. While blind-tasting, we discovered that despite the sweetness of the syrups, the flavors were authentic. We tasted four coffee-related and four cocktail-related syrups. Tasting cherry, pomegranate, crème de cassis and blackberry were bizzare experiences. The nutty, almond-flavor of the cherry and the harsh, somewhat greeny character of the cassis stood out in particular. During the test I realised that one could learn endlessly about taste. By working on techniques and taste, your coffee becomes better and better. Many people think that they can’t taste differences in coffee at all. I think this is nonsense. It is something you can learn. Most people can taste the difference between a great or a bad cup of coffee. I am often asked how you can become a good barista. For me it is believing this: Things can always be made better. I mean this in a positive way; to me, it is a challenge -- a challenge to always develop one’s skills and make a higher quality product. You can get there by learning to taste and improving your techniques. Sometimes, everything comes together and you know,
40 •
“Wow, this is what I am looking for!” For me, that moment was during the finals at the WBC. But now, if I had another opportunity, I would do things differently and would go for making even higher-quality coffee. The Dutch coffee market is really growing. There is a lot of interest for coffee. More and more espresso bars are popping up, and with this, more work for baristas. Unfortunately, it’s often only about looks, not about the essence, so the taste and quality of the coffee is usually very poor. As a barista, I like to inform guests, “keep tasting and always stay critical. Don’t be satisfied with just anything that is served to you. Keep in mind, things can always be made better.” Customers are my motivation. People fascinate me because they are all different. I like to serve a drink to someone because you really offer them a moment. And the nice thing about coffee is that it always triggers something different for everyone, especially in the Netherlands, one of the highest coffee-consuming countries in the world! During my time at The Blonde Pater, I started competing in the Dutch National Barista Championship with my collegue who had already competed there a couple of times, Rose van Asten. I learned so much while training for the championship. In 2006, Rose became the Dutch Barista Champion and I came in second. One year later, I won the title, which meant that in June 2008, I got the chance to compete at the World Barista Championship in Copenhagen. At the moment, I am starting a company with Rose van Asten. In addition to being the Dutch Barista Champion of 2006, Rose is also the Dutch Latte Art Champion of 2007 and Dutch Cupping Champion of 2008. In 2006, she competed and came in 8th at the World Barista Chamionship and came in 7th at the World Latte Art Championship in Antwerp. In June 2009, she will represent the Netherlands at the World Cupping Championship in Köln. This next step is very exciting for us. After the WBC in Copenhagen, I was already thinking about the next championship. I also got some nice job offers, but soon came to realize it was time for something new. Since October, Rose and I have combined our strengths. Before, we were working seperately doing barista work. Now, we are using our knowledge and passion to answer the growing market for specialty coffee in the Netherlands. We are doing this through coffee consulting, clinics and trainings. We also offer our services by making coffee at special events. While we were setting up our business plan, I started to realize there is no time fore me to compete at the championships. That period in my career has now passed. I can fully focus on the new path and the challenges that come with it. This makes me feel energized. When you are doing exactly what you want to do, something special happens. It makes you feel good. It’s just a matter of doing it! That is the great thing about making coffee: It is something you just do to enjoy!
很多就像冲一杯咖啡一样基本的事情改变了我的生活。从去年六月 于哥本哈根举行的世界咖啡师竞赛中获得第三名到现在，已经过去四个月 了。有时感觉一切都已过去一年，有时又感觉一切有如昨日。
费量最高的国家，人们的体会就更深了！ 在 The Blonde Pater 咖啡屋工作的时候，我 开始和我的同事 Rose van Asten 参加荷兰国家咖
2005年，我在 The Blonde Pater 咖啡屋开始了自己的职业生涯。 有人
啡师竞赛，她之前已参加多次。在准备竞赛的时
问我是什么时候成为一个咖啡师的，我回答说：是从我到 The Blonde Pater
候我学到了很多东西。2006年，Rose成了荷兰咖
工作开始。但是我对咖啡的热情应该追溯到我年仅四岁的时候，那时我的母
啡师冠军，我获得亚军。一年之后，我得到冠军
亲让我第一次认识了咖啡（当然，里面放了很多牛奶和糖）。进入位于阿
称号，这就意味着我取得了2008年6月哥本哈根世
姆斯特丹的 The Blonde Pater 之前，也就是2001年，我在一个“真正的”咖
界咖啡师竞赛的参赛资格。那时，我和 Rose van
啡店收获了一些经验。我制作咖啡，但是当时我们根本没有听说过“咖啡
Asten 办起一个公司。除了在2006年荷兰咖啡师竞
师”这样一个专业术语。咖啡是在店内烘焙的，我们可以制作混合咖啡然
赛中夺冠，Rose 还是2007荷兰拿铁拉花艺术冠军；
后带回家尝味。那时并没有感到这样的实践有什么特别之处，直到现在，
2008荷兰杯测冠军。2006年，她在世界咖啡师竞赛
我才体会到这些经历对我后来成为一个成功的咖啡师有着莫大的帮助。
中获得第八名；在安特卫普世界拿铁拉花艺术中
现在我可以回顾一下那另人难以置信的三年时光。起初，我只制作 意式特浓咖啡，但其实除此之外还有很多重要的咖啡制作环节需要学习：
获得第七名。2009年6月，她将代表新西兰参加于 科隆举办的世界杯测竞赛。
准备、观察、闻味还有调试——一刻不停地调整。经过一段时间的尝试，
生活中的下一刻将是激动人心的，于我们而
还有不得不将咖啡倒入排水孔的多次失败之后，我终于第一次在我的意大
言就更加精彩纷呈。哥本哈根世界咖啡师竞赛才
利特浓里面发现了巧克力。从那一刻起，尝味才真正充满意义；才有了深
结束，我就已经开始憧憬下一届竞赛了。我得到
度并饱含内容。我一直都是一个很会享受生活的人，但是直到那一刻我才
了一些比较好的工作，但是很快地我就意识到，
真正懂得去品味生活。从你学会品尝开始，你就会发现每一样东西都有其
是时候去做一些新的尝试了。从10月起，Rose 和
独特的味道。
我就开始联手合作。之前，我们都是分工进行咖
几星期以前，我到过法国的莫林糖浆厂——这是一个相当绝妙的经 历。我们可以品尝所有东西，包括那些我根本不知道的产品。在这样盲目 的尝味过程中，我们发现这些糖浆除了香甜可口之外，味道都是极其纯正、 道地的。我们品尝了四种咖啡味、四种鸡尾酒味的糖浆。对樱桃、石榴、黑 醋栗利口酒、黑莓的尝味又是另一番奇特的体验。还有富于坚果、杏仁味的 樱桃糖浆，甜中稍带苦涩；特别出众的要数略呈绿色的黑醋栗糖浆。在品尝 中，我意识到，一个人可以从尝味里学到的东西真可谓无穷无尽。 通过在技术和尝味上下功夫，您的咖啡就会变得越来越好。许多人认 为他们根本尝不出咖啡与咖啡之间有什么不同——我想这简直就是胡说八 道。您可以从中学到一些东西。绝大多数人都能够品尝出一杯好咖啡和一 杯劣质咖啡之间的区别。别人经常问我是怎么成为一个好的咖啡师的，我 深信：我们总是可以把事情做得更好。而且我很积极地看待这个问题。于 我而言，这是一个挑战：一个可以提高个人技能并创造更高品质产品的挑 战。通过学习尝味和提高技术就可以实现这样的目标。有时，当机会到来 的时候你就会突然发现：“啊，这正是我一直寻找的！”于我而言，这个
啡师的工作。现在，我们都投入我们的知识和热
时刻就是世界咖啡师竞赛的决赛。但是，如果现在我能得到另一个机会，
情，来应对新西兰精品咖啡市场迅猛发展所带来
我会去尝试一些不同的东西，甚至去做品质更高的咖啡。
的问题。我们通过咖啡咨询、“门诊”和培训来
荷兰的咖啡市场发展迅猛，人们对咖啡有相当浓厚的兴趣。越来越多 的意式特浓咖啡屋像雨后春笋般出现，咖啡师得到了更多的工作机会。不
达到我们的目的。我们还在特殊活动中通过制作 咖啡的方式提供我们的服务。
幸的是，倍受关注的通常只有“外观”而已，“本质”经常被人们忽略，
在我们定下商务计划的时候，我忽然意识到
所以咖啡的口味和质量通常是相当低略的。作为一个咖啡师，我想告诫顾
我根本没有时间去参加竞赛了。我职业生涯中的那
客们：“要不断地品尝，还要抱以十分挑剔的眼光。不要对任何放到您桌
段时光已成为过去。我要完全投入到新的生活方式
上的东西都感到满意。请记住，凡事都可以做得更好。” 顾客就是我的动
和挑战中去，这让我感到精力充沛。当你在做你真
力，人与人之间的不同之处深深吸引着我。我希望在为别人提供一杯饮品
正想做的事情的时候，很多特别的事情就会发生，
的时候，其实是为他献上了一段美好而又享受的时光。咖啡的美好之处在
这是一种很好的感觉。全心全意去做！这就是制作
于，它总能将不同的感受带给不同的人，特别在新西兰这个世界上咖啡消
咖啡最重要的事情：因享受而做！
• 41
BARISTA•TALK
Akihiro Okada The 2008 Japan Barista Champion It is our pleasure to interview Mr. Akihiro Okada, the second runner-up at the SCAE World Latte Art Championship 2008 in Copenhagen last June. He recently entered the Japan Barista Championship 2008 and will represent Japanese baristas at the World Barista Championship 2009 this April in Atlanta.
The Starting Point I first learned of the ‘barista’ career while reading a magazine and I had dreamed of becoming one ever since. In 2004, I decided to work for Ogawa Coffee, beginning my career as a barista. Mr. Uda introduced me to the job. He is very knowledgeable about coffee and many other subjects. I admire and am thankful for him very much.
Favorite Blends
去年六月，欧洲特种咖啡协会（SCAE）在哥本哈根举行了2008世 界咖啡拉花竞赛，Akihiro Okada 先生在竞赛中荣获季军，我们很荣幸能够 采访到他。他最近参加了 2008日本咖啡师竞赛，并将代表日本咖啡师参加 今年4月在亚特兰大举行的2009世界咖啡师竞赛。 出发点 我是从一本杂志上看到“咖啡师”这个职业的，从那以后，我就梦想 能够成为一名咖啡师。2004年，我决定加入奥佳华咖啡（Ogawa Coffee） ，开 始我的咖啡师职业生涯。 我的这份工作是 Uda 先生介绍的。他学识渊博，不仅对咖啡有很深的 了解，而且对其它学科也有深刻的认识。我很崇拜他，并对他充满感激。 最喜欢的饮品
I like coffee from Ethiopia because of its sweetness and unique aroma.
Barista’s Charm
我喜欢埃塞俄比亚咖啡，因为它味道甜美、气味芳香。 咖啡师的魅力
I like being a barista because it allows me to directly share the good taste of coffee with my customers. I also like it when customers take an interest in how I brew coffee for them. It is enjoyable and fun. I love to show them my skills; I think it just looks cool. Although it is only a morsel of happiness I prepare for people, I always pay attention to every detail in making my drinks.
我都抱以谨慎、认真的态度。
Experience from Barista Competitions
咖啡师竞赛参赛经验
I have attended five barista competitions, the last one being the World Latte Art Championship 2008 in which I received 3rd place. Although sometimes I do not win first prize, I feel happy anyway; I experience the sense of victory as a result of my hard work. The increasing number of barista competitions I attended does not make me feel tired of practicing. My goal is to win. Also, I want to show the charm of Japanese baristas to others.
我喜欢当一名咖啡师，因为它能让我直接地与我的顾客分享咖啡的美 味。顾客充满好奇地观看我为他们冲泡咖啡的时候，我会感到非常开心。 这是一件其乐无穷的事情。我喜欢向他们展示我的技艺；我想那看上去很 酷。虽然这仅仅是我为别人准备的一个小小的幸福，但对每一个制作细节
我已经参加了五次咖啡师竞赛，最后一次是2008世界咖啡拉花竞赛， 我获得了第三名。虽然我不是每次都能获得冠军，但是我总是很开心；每 一个胜利都必须归功于我的努力和付出。 虽然我已经参加了很多届咖啡师竞赛，但是我仍然孜孜不倦地保持训 练。我的目标就是胜利；而且我非常想向别人展示日本咖啡师的魅力。 参赛作品 我的参赛饮品灵感来源于日本的秋天。我将东京本地的栗子、马斯
Signature Drink My signature drink is inspired by the fall season in Japan. I mix local Tokyo chestnuts, mascarpone cheese and espresso to create a well-mixed coffee taste with the sweetness of mascarpone cheese and chestnut cream.
Preparation for Barista Competitions Since I became a barista in 2004, I have always dreamed of entering barista competitions. Therefore, I have been preparing myself for competition and am lucky to have warm support from everybody at my company.
Words for New Baristas A barista is a person who satisfies customers’ desires. In order to do so, I believe that I must be happy with my products first. In addition, one must enjoy the job, smile and be lively if one is to be a charming barista. This is very important.
42 •
卡彭奶酪和浓缩咖啡混合在一起，制作出一杯混有马斯卡彭奶酪和栗子的 香甜味道的美味咖啡。 咖啡师竞赛参赛准备 从2004年成为一名咖啡师开始，我就梦想能够参加咖啡师竞赛。因 此，我一直为参赛而努力准备着，而且公司里的每一个人都热心地支持着 我。 寄语新来者 一名咖啡师就是一位能够满足客户需求的人。如果要让顾客满意， 我首先就必须对自己的产品感到满意。另外，我相信如果一个人要成为魅 力十足的咖啡师，就必须热爱自己的工作，随时保持微笑，并且精力充沛 地投入到工作中去。这是很重要的。
COFFEE•TECHNIQUES
coffee t&i is happy to include a new column dedicated to the art of preparing coffee, Coffee Techniques. In this issue, we will explain drip brewing, a method of brewing coffee with a cloth filter. If you have never tried it, you may want to get the necessary equipment and follow the steps below. We guarantee that drip brewing will allow you to experience each coffee’s taste more distinctly than you would be able to by other brewing methods. Give it a try!
《咖啡、茶与冰淇淋》很荣幸地为大家献上一个新的栏目，专门介绍 准备咖啡的艺术以及咖啡技术。在本期杂志中，我们将介绍滤网式冲泡法， 这是一种用滤网进行冲泡的方法。如果您还没有尝试过这样的冲泡方式，那 就按照我们的介绍，准备相关器具，然后依照下面介绍的步骤进行冲泡。我 们保证您将品尝到一杯独特的咖啡，这样的咖啡和用其它方式冲泡出来的咖 啡是截然不同的。开始行动吧！
器具和材料： 1．一把匙子
Materials
2．一个咖啡壶
1. A spoon 2. A collecting vessel 3. A vessel for mixing the brewed coffee 4. Roasted ground coffee (50 g) 5. A cloth filter 6. A coffee dripper 7. A kettle with a spout 8. Hot water at 90°C (450 ml)
Preparation / 准备
3．一个用来混合抽取出来的咖啡的容器 4．已研磨好的烘焙咖啡（50克） 5．一块滤网 6．一个咖啡滴漏器 7．一个细嘴壶 8．90摄氏度的开水（450毫升）
Cloth Filter Drip Coffee
4. Let the ground coffee breathe for a while and then pour the water so the liquid begins to drip into the collecting vessel.
1. Put 50 g of ground coffee into the cloth filter. Gently shake the filter to balance the level of ground coffee. Put the filter into the coffee dripper and then place the dripper on top of the collecting vessel. The coffeehouse in this example uses a coffee blend that can be fully extracted after the first extraction to brew 3-4 cups of coffee.
2. Pour boiling water into a kettle and wait until the temperature decreases to 90°C. By starting in the middle and slowly going around in a circle, pour just enough water onto the ground coffee in order to slowly warm and wet the coffee. Do not allow the hot water to directly touch the filter.
3. The size of the wet coffee will swell and then contract. After it has shrunk, repeat step two. Make sure that all of the coffee grounds have been saturated with water before it begins to drip.
1．取50克研磨咖啡倒入滤布。轻轻地
2．将开水倒入细嘴壶中，冷却到90摄
3．潮湿的咖啡的体积会先膨胀然后缩
晃动几下使咖啡表面平整。将滤布放入
氏度之后，就可以向咖啡进行第一次注
小。待咖啡缩水以后，重复第二个步骤
咖啡滴漏器中，然后将咖啡滴漏器放到
水，注水方向要从中心向四周，绕着圈
进行二次注水。进行咖啡滴落之前，必
咖啡壶上方。在所做的示范中，这个咖
注水，保持水量大小适中，缓缓用水加
须确保咖啡粉已经全部浸透。
啡屋使用的是一种综合咖啡，在第一次
热并浸透研磨咖啡。避免将热水直接浇
咖啡提取之后还可以足足提取并冲泡3至
到滤网上。
4杯咖啡。
44 •
5. Continuously pour the water onto the coffee. The first portion of coffee in the collecting vessel (the first 2 cups) is considered to be the best quality.
6. Next, pour the remainder of the hot water onto the ground coffee. Make sure that the water continuously drips into the collecting vessel and no water remains in the filter.
4．稍作等待，使研磨咖啡被水全部浸
5．持续不断地向咖啡注水。容器中收
6．将剩余的热水注向咖啡，确保抽出
透，再次注水使液体开始朝咖啡壶内
集到的第一部分咖啡（头两杯）的质量
的咖啡不断地低落到咖啡壶内，不要把
滴落。
是最好的
水留在滤纲上。
7. Remove the cloth filter from the coffee dripper before the liquid stops dripping.
8. The strength of the coffee is divided into layers. The taste of the upper layer is not as rich as the taste of the lower layer. Therefore, it is necessary to pour the coffee from the collecting vessel into another vessel in order to balance the richness of coffee. Wait until its temperature has decreased to 85°C (around 15 minutes) and then the coffee is ready to be served!
7．在咖啡停止滴落以前将滤布从咖啡滴 漏器上移开。
8．咖啡的浓度层次分明。上层的咖啡 浓度比下层的浓度低。因此，必须将咖 啡从咖啡壶倒到另一个容器中， 再倒回 咖啡壶， 以中和咖啡浓度。待咖啡冷 却到85摄氏度后（大约15分钟），就可 以喝了。
• 45
TRADE•SHOW•PREVIEW
Thailand Coffee Tea and Drinks 2009 February 19-22, 2009, MCC Hall The Mall Bangkapi After its successful debut last February, Kavin Intertrade will organize the 2nd Thailand Coffee, Tea and Drinks expo February 19-22, 2009 at MCC Hall, Bangkapi Shopping Centre, Bangkok. The show’s exhibition space will increase from last year’s by 25% to 120 booths to cope with the overwhelming demand of both Thai and foreign coffee equipment manufacturers and bean distributors. Over 50% of the exhibition space has been confirmed as of October 31. The number of reserved booths is expected to rise to 100 by the end of the year. It is anticipated that more than 100 million baht in sales—nearly US$3 million—will be brought in over the course of the four-day show. In addition to the exhibition, the Barista Association of Thailand will host the National Thailand Barista Championship, the winner of which will represent Thailand this year at the World Barista Championship in Atlanta, Georgia, USA. For more information, please visit www.thailandcoffee.net or call Ms. Jay at 662-861-4013 ext. 102.
在去年二月的初展成功之后，凯文展贸公司（Kavin Intertrade ）将 于2009年2月19到22日，在曼谷 Bangkapi 购物中心的 MCC 大厅，举办第二 届泰国咖啡、茶和饮品展览。 为满足不断增长的泰国和外国咖啡设备制造商以及咖啡豆经销商的需 求，展会的空间比去年扩大了25%，展览亭也增加到120个。 在10月31日以前，得到确认的展位预定已超过了50%，预计今年年底 展销亭的预定数目将增加到100个。初步预算，这四天展览将带来1亿泰铢 （大约3百万美元）的收入。 除此之外，咖啡师协会将在展览中举办泰国国家咖啡师竞赛，大赛 的获胜者将代表泰国参加明年美国亚特兰大乔治亚州举办的世界咖啡师竞 赛。 详情请登陆 www.thailandcoffee.net，或者联系Jay小姐，电话号码： 662-861-4013 转102。
TRADE•SHOW•PREVIEW
Hotelex Shanghai 2009 March 31 – April 3, 2009 Shanghai New International Expo Center Asia’s largest hospitality exhibition, Hotelex Shanghai 2009, is coming soon. Hotelex has showcased the future of Asian hospitality for 17 years, attracting many famous brands of catering and kitchen equipment, hotel supplies, hotel related foods and beverages and many other hotel related services and products. It is expected Hotelex will attract more than 800 exhibitors to display their latest products, services, food and beverages to over 50,000 local and international trade buyers on an exhibition area of more than 60,000 square meters at the Shanghai New International Expo Center, March 31st - April 3rd, 2009. We hope you can join us at Hotelex Shanghai 2009 to expand your distribution network in China. For further information, please visit www.hotelex.cn. 亚洲最大的酒店用品展——2009上海国际 酒店用品博览会即将拉开序幕。十七年以来，国 际酒店用品博览会致力于展示亚洲酒店用品的未 来，一直吸引着许多有名的餐饮服务、厨房设备、 酒店用品、与酒店相关的食物和饮品，以及很多其 它酒店类服务和产品参展。预期国际酒店用品博览 会将吸引800多个展商，他们将于2009年3月31日到 4月3日，在占地面积超过60,000 平方米的上海新国 际博览中心，向50,000多个当地以及国际商贸买主 展示他们的最新产品、服务项目、食物以及饮品。 希望您同我们一起加入2009上海国际酒店用品展览 会，来扩张您在中国的销售网。 更多详情，请参阅：www.hotelex.cn
HOSFAIR Guangzhou 2009 June 30 – July 2, 2009 China Import and Export Fair Pazhou Complex The largest hotel supplies exhibition in Asia, The Guangzhou International Hospitality, Supplies, Food and Beverage Fair (HOSFAIR Guangzhou 2009) will be held on 40,000 sq. m of exhibition hall at the China Import and Export Fair Pazhou Complex. HOSFAIR Guangzhou 2009 will attract more than 1,000 exhibitors displaying their latest products and services to over 33,000 local and international visitors. HOSFAIR Guangzhou has become the fastest growing hospitality trade show in Asia. It serves as a golden platform for domestic and overseas buyers to purchase hotel goods and for manufacturers to meet new clientele.
48 •
亚洲规模最大的酒店设备及用品展——广州国际酒店及用品展览会 (2009广州 HOSFAIR )将在占地面积为40,000 平方米的中国进出口商品交易会 琶洲展馆的展览大厅举行。这次展览吸引了1,000多个展商，届时，他们将 为当地和国外33,000多位参观者展出他们的最新产品。 广州 HOSFAIR 已经成为全亚洲发展最快的酒店商贸展。它为国内以 及国外的酒店用品购买商、制作商提供了一个产品购买和结识新顾客的黄 金平台。 www.hosfair.com/Guangzhou/index.asp
TRADE•SHOW•TOUR
SCAJ 2008 October 15-17, 2008, Tokyo Big Sight SCAJ 2008 was held October 15th – 17th, 2008, in West Hall 3 at Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo. The event was organized by the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan and supported by the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The theme for SCAJ 2008 was “Fun & Tasty” specialty coffee. Besides the exhibitions and the competitions, there were a number of seminars for visitors to attend run by leading figures in coffee society, such as the president of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA), Mark Inman, the president of the Brazil Specialty Coffee Association (BSCA), Gabriel Carvalho Dias, and the executive director of Eastern African Fine Coffees Association (EAFCA), Philip A. Gita. World-renowned Ms. Judith Ganes delivered the keynote speech about the latest information concerning coffee. The event received 20,520 participants from around the world and was closed with a successful outcome.
Coffee Fest Hong Kong November 7-9, 2008, Asia World Expo Making its trade show debut at the Asia World Expo in Lantau, Coffee Fest Hong Kong received approximately 10,000 visitors November 7-9, 2008. There were 100 exhibition booths representing coffee machine manufacturers, tea and coffee product retailers, barista schools, Asian coffee associations, beverage equipment suppliers, and coffee magazines. The expo hosted several educational classes and workshops focusing on how to improve and streamline operations and maximize profits in different retail environments for professionals working within the coffee, hotel, and food and beverage industry.
2008年10月15至17日，2008 SCAJ 世界精
香港咖啡节在大屿山亚洲国际博览馆首次
品咖啡会议与展览在日本东京国际展示场（Big
推出贸易展览会，仅2008年11月7日至9日短短几日
Sight）西面第三大厅举行。这次活动由日本精品
之间，香港咖啡节便接待了约10,000名参观者。
咖啡协会组织、日本外交部支持承办。活动的主 题是：“奇妙与美味”的精品咖啡。 除了展览和比赛以外，还有很多专家研讨 会供大家参加，这些会议的组织者都是咖啡协会 中的领袖人物，譬如美国精品咖啡协会(SCAA)会 长马克·英曼（Mark Inman）、巴西精品咖啡协 会 (BSCA) 会长 Gabriel Carvalho Dias，以及东非精 品咖啡协会 (EAFCA) 执行董事 Philip A. Gita。针对 咖啡的最新信息，全球闻名的 Judith Ganes 女士发 表了重要讲话。
展览会中共有100个展位参展，分别代表着： 咖啡机制造商、茶和咖啡产品零售商、咖啡师学 校、亚洲咖啡协会、饮料设备供应商以及咖啡杂 志出版商。 展览会还主办了一些学习课程和研讨会，目 的是为了向从事咖啡、酒店、食品和饮料业的专 业人员出谋献策，课程和会议集中讨论了如何帮 助这些业内人士在不同的零售环境中改善、精简 业务和提高利润。
活动共接纳了20,520名来自世界各地的与会 代表和参观者，最后取得圆满成功，顺利地落下 帷幕。
50 •
• 51
TRADE•SHOW•TOUR
Taipei Tea, Coffee & Wine Expo November 21-24, 2008, Taipei World Trade Center The Taipei Tea, Coffee & Wine Expo, the biggest trade show in Taiwan, was held November 21-24, 2008, at the Taipei World Trade Center. More than 250 booths exhibited tea, coffee and wine from Japan, America and Russia. Oven manufacturers, bakeries, and chain and independent stores among others were present at this event. The expo gathered a number of producers and participants in the tea, coffee and wine industry from around the world. On November 24, Stephen Morrissey, World Barista Champion 2008, conducted a workshop on “Barista Skill.” This was the only workshop in Asia during the whole year presented by the World Barista Champion, and the audience was certainly impressed.
BARISTA•CHALLENGE
除了几个可听性很强的研讨会、一些示范还有一些学 术研讨会以外，2008香港咖啡节还主办了“Millrock 创意咖啡 拉花竞赛”。 40名来自亚洲的选手参加了为期三天的比赛，一 起探求咖啡拉花的最高境界。在前两天的比赛中，每位选手必 须制作出2至3杯作品供评委打分。分数最高的选手得以进入第 三天的最后一轮比赛。 获胜的咖啡师代表了亚洲很多国家和地区。冠军是来自 韩国首尔的 Young Min Lee，他获得了1000美元的奖励；第二 名和第三名分别是来自台湾的张建龙和来自日本东京的 Shiaki Hosaka，分别获得500和250美元奖金。 所有入围作品都极为创新、独特，像龙和五角花结这样 的设计就从来没有在近期的国内展演中出现过。
Among several high-quality workshops, demonstrations, and educational seminars, Coffee Fest Hong Kong 2008 was host to The Millrock Free Pour Latte Art Championship. The 40 competitors from Asia competed over the course of three days, pouring the best latte art they could. For the first two days, 20 competitors each had to create 2-3 cups for the judges to evaluate. The ten highest-scoring competitors moved onto the final round to compete the third day. The winning latte artists represented a wide geographical range within Asia. Young Min Lee of Seoul, Korea took first and its $1,000 purse. Second and third places were awarded to Chien Ling Chang of Tayuan, Taiwan and Shiaki Hosaka of Tokyo, Japan, taking home $500 and $250 respectively. All of the finalists crafted creative designs not recently seen at domestic shows, including an elaborate dragon and a 5-pointed rosette.
The Millrock Free Pour Latte Art Championship November 7-9, 2008, Asia World Expo
台北茗茶、咖啡与美酒展——台湾最大的 贸易展，于2008年11月21至24日在台北世界贸易中 心举行。 展会共设250多个展位，展出来自日本、 美国和俄罗斯的茶叶，咖啡和美酒。 烤箱制造商、面包房、连锁和独营商店等的 经营者出席了这一活动。博览会聚集了一些茶叶生 产者和相关人员，以及来自世界各地的咖啡、美酒 行业的业内人士。 2008年11月24日，世界咖啡师竞赛冠军斯蒂 芬· 莫里西（Stephen Morrissey）举办了一次“咖 啡师技巧”研讨会。“这是整年里亚洲唯一一次由 世界咖啡师冠军倾力打造的研讨会，会议给观众留 下了非常深刻的印象。
52 •
• 53
BARISTA•CHALLENGE
在举办2008 SCAJ 世界精品咖啡会议与展览期间，有四 个咖啡师竞赛同期举行。这些赛事当仁不让地成为会中最精彩 的环节，这些大赛包括：2008-2009日本咖啡师竞赛、2008意大 利浓缩咖啡拼配竞赛、咖啡拉花竞赛和2008 SCAJ 虹吸式咖啡 竞赛。这些竞赛都很成功，吸引了众多参观者前来观看咖啡师 的竞赛表现和技术发挥。
During the SCAJ World Specialty Coffee Conference & Exhibition 2008, the highlights of the events were undeniably the four barista competitions, including the Japan Barista Championship 2008-09, Espresso Blend Championship 2008, Latte Art Championship, and SCAJ Siphon Championship 2008. The events’ success was measured by the large crowds magnetized to the stages, themselves competing to watch the baristas demonstrate their techniques throughout the show.
Japan Barista Championship 2008-2009 Espresso Blend Championship 2008 • SCAJ Siphon Championship 2008 Latte Art Championship 2008 October 15-17, 2008, Tokyo Big Sight 2008-2009日本咖啡师竞赛半决赛和决赛都在大会期间举 行。竞赛规则依照2008世界咖啡师竞赛的赛规严格执行。这个 春天，冠军 Akihiro Okada 先生将代表日本到美国乔治亚洲亚特 兰大参加2009世界咖啡师竞赛。
Results
Taiwan Barista Championship 2008 November 23, 2008, Taipei World Trade Center
The Taiwan Barista Championship 2008 coincided with the Taipei Tea, Coffee & Wine Expo on November 23, 2008, at the Taipei World Trade Center. The competition was held using the same standards and regulations as those used at the WBC 2008. The Taiwan Barista Champion 2008 decided the baristas who will represent Taiwan at the World Barista Championship 2009 in Atlanta, USA. The final results were as follows: First Place: Cao Jiaming First Runner-Up: Xiao Feiyin Second Runner-Up: Zhuang Hongzhang Third Runner-Up: Wang Chunmin Stephen Morrissey, World Barista Champion 2008, judged the competition and also conducted a workshop on “Barista Skill” the next day. Chao Jia Ming, Taiwan Barista Champion 2008, also attended this workshop.
54 •
1st Mr. Akihiro Okada 2nd Ms. Mie Nakahara 3rd Mr. Takahiro Ishitani 4th Mr. Manabu Sekiguchi
The Japan Barista Championship 2008-2009 semi-finals and finals were held at the event stage. The rules followed those of the WBC 2008. The winner, Mr. Akihiro Okada, will be granted the honor of representing Japan this spring at the World Barista Championship 2009 in Atlanta, Georgia, USA. 5th Ms. Urara Nakama 6th Mr. Yoshitaka Tomikawa 7th Mr. Hidenori Izaki 8th Mr. Kenji Kushihama
2008台湾咖啡师竞赛于2008年11月23日，在台北世界贸易中心， 与台北茶、咖啡与美酒展同时举行。大赛使用的标准、规章与2008世界 咖啡师竞赛所使用的完全相同。2008年台湾咖啡师竞赛决出的冠军将代 表台湾参加2009美国亚特兰大世界咖啡师竞赛。大赛最终结果如下： 第一名：曹嘉铭 第二名：萧翡呤 第三名：庄宏彰 第四名: 王淳敏 斯蒂芬·莫里西（Stephen Morrissey）：2008年世界咖啡师冠军， 在这次咖啡师竞赛中担任裁判一职，大赛第二天举办了“咖啡师技 巧”研讨会。2008台湾咖啡师竞赛冠军曹嘉铭也参加了这次会议。
• 55
BARISTA•CHALLENGE
SCAJ Siphon Championship 2008 At the SCAJ Siphon Championship 2008 finals, each siphonist had 14 minutes to make 4 cups of siphon coffee and 4 cups of signature beverage. Similar to the WBC, the siphonists could not use any kind of liquors in their signature drinks and the competition was supervised by one head judge, two technical judges, and four sensory judges. 在2008 SCAJ 虹吸式咖啡竞赛（决赛）中， 每位虹吸咖啡师有14分钟时间来制作4杯虹吸咖啡 和4杯参赛饮品。和世界咖啡师竞赛一样，虹吸咖 啡师们不可以在他们的参赛作品中添加任何含有酒 精的液体。竞赛由一名主裁判、两名技术裁判以及 四名感官裁判进行监督。
Espresso Blend Championship 2008 2008意大利浓缩咖啡拼配竞赛参赛者名单 通过 SCAJ 的网站公布，按参赛者工作的咖啡店 所在区域，一共分为6个代表队，每队有6至10个 成员。 今年，生咖啡豆进口商赞助了17种不同类 型、已分等级的精品咖啡豆供竞赛使用。每个竞 赛组必须自己烘焙咖啡，创造出他们自己的意大 利浓缩咖啡拼配。竞赛禁止单一混合以及单品参 赛，作品中必须加入巴西咖啡生豆。 官方评委可以为作品打的最高分是100分，特 约评委可以给到60分。大赛鼓励一般观看者亲自品 尝咖啡，然后将他们的意见反馈给参赛组。
The participants at Espresso Blend Championship 2008 were identified through the SCAJ webpage resulting in six teams of 6-10 members formed according to the regions in which the participants’ shops were located. This year, green bean importers donated 17 kinds of specialty graded coffee beans to be used in the competition. Each team had to roast the beans themselves and create their own blends of espresso. No single blend or single estate was allowed, and the Brazilian green beans had to be included. The official judges could award up to 100 points and the guest judges could up to 60 points. General visitors were encouraged to taste and give feedback to the teams.
Results
1st Ms. Saori Nakajima 2nd Mr. Futoshi Nakamura 3rd Mr. Tadashi Kurio 4th Ms. Chizuru Motokawa 5th Mr. Hiroaki Takada 6th Mr. Shogo Shimizu 7th Mr. Takumi Suzuki 8th Ms. Natsuki Nomura
Results: Official Judges’ Section
1st Chubu region team 2nd Kyushu region team 3rd Kansai region team 4th Kanto region A team 5th Kanto region B team 6th Hokkaido region team
Results: Guest Judges’ Section
1st Kansai region team 2nd Chubu region team 3rd Kanto region B team 4th Hokkaido region team 5th Kanto region A team 6th Kyushu region team
Latte Art Championship 2008 The Latte Art Championship, a competition to create artistic designs made with espresso and steamed milk, was held based on the rules of the SCAE World Latte Art Championship 2008. This was the first full-scale latte art competition in Japan. Six baristas battled through the preliminary heats to take center stage in the finals, making incredible designs and superb coffee. 咖啡拉花竞赛：一个以浓缩咖啡和蒸牛奶 进行艺术创造与艺术设计的竞赛，严格按照2008 SCAE 世界咖啡拉花竞赛的赛规举行。 这是第一次日本大规模咖啡拉花竞赛。最终 有6名咖啡师在初赛的激烈角逐中获胜，得以站上 决赛的舞台，进行无以伦比的咖啡设计与制作。
Results
1st Mr. Kenji Kushihama 2nd. Ms. Urara Nakama 3rd Mr. Wataru Takehi 4th Mr. Yoshitaka Tomikawa 5th Mr. Masahiko Sakai 6th Mr. Soushi Nishioka
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CAFÉS•AROUND•THE•WORLD
BARISTAS•AROUND•THE•WORLD
It is time to get to know the young generation of baristas whose capabilities have brought them to compete at national and international levels. Besides developing their own expertise, they represent their countries as models of the next generation of baristas.
1 Every barista in Korea knows Yong Min Lee. He is a Korean champion barista and has always performed outstandingly at several international competitions. He has written several books on coffee making and art. Last November, he won the Millrock Latte Art Championship at Coffee Fest Hong Kong. 2
Stephen Morrissey, the World Barista Champion 2008, was invited by Taiwan Coffee Association to be a judge in a barista competition.
He also conducted a workshop for WBC certified judges.
3
Xiao Feiyin, an S-size barista from a well-known Taiwanese coffee house, Gabee, was the first runner-up in Taiwan Barista Championship 2008.
4
Shunichi Takemoto, Japan Barista Champion 2007 and Akihiro Okada Japan Barista Champion 2008 discuss the tastes of espresso brewed by the competitors in latte art competitions.
5
Hiroshi Sawada, Millrock Latte Art Champion 2008, and Suphot Leesuwattanakul, Thailand Barista Champion, from Black Canyon Coffee.
Traditional coffee with a new look Revived by American marketers and now in demand worldwide, today’s popular espresso coffee shops mirror the old Italian-style coffee house. In Asia, each country has its own traditional-style coffee, such as Vietnamese filter coffee, traditional Thai coffee, and Japanese flannel drip coffee. The original purpose of UCC’s Ueshima was to create traditional coffee houses (kissaten) that combine traditional brewing techniques with new technology, bringing convenience to coffee making without sacrificing taste and style. The exquisite taste and quality are preserved, so old and young coffee lovers can enjoy cups of tasty coffee in an authentic atmosphere. 原是被美国商业人士重拾的经典，现在已在全球范围内引起跟风热
1
2
潮——时下流行的浓缩咖啡店，是旧时意式咖啡屋的真实再现。 在亚洲，每个国家都有其独特的传统咖啡，譬如：越南滤滴咖啡、泰 国传统咖啡以及日本法兰绒滤网咖啡。 悠诗诗上岛咖啡的本意是开设传统咖啡屋（就像 kissaten，传统与最新 冲泡技术相结合、在保证咖啡美味与品质的同时，带来方便的冲泡方式。 A warm welcome from young baristas.
因为味道与品质得到了保证，所以年老、年轻的咖啡爱好者能在一个专业
来自年轻的咖啡师的温馨问候。
的氛围内享受咖啡带来的愉悦。
3
4
5
是时候来了解一下年轻一代的咖啡师了，这些咖啡师都有雄厚的实力，都能在国家和国际竞赛中独领风骚。除了发展自 己的专长，他们还代表着各自国家咖啡师的实力，他们是下一代咖啡师的杰出榜样。
1
Yong Min Lee 是韩国咖啡师圈子中众所周知的人物，他
是韩国咖啡师冠军，在国际竞赛中始终有出色的表现，著有一 些关于咖啡制作和咖啡艺术的书籍。去年十一月，在香港咖啡 节中获得咖啡拉花大赛（Millrock Latte Art）冠军。
2 A model of the traditional coffee maker with the double flannel drip system. 一个典型的装有双层绒布滴漏系统的传统咖啡
斯蒂芬·莫里西（Stephen Morrissey）：2008世界咖
啡师冠军，曾受台湾咖啡协会邀请，在一次咖啡师竞赛中担
3
萧翡吟：来自台湾知名咖啡屋——义式（Gabee.）的
一位娇小的咖啡师，获2008台湾咖啡师竞赛第二名。
4
Shuichi Takemoto 2007日本咖啡师冠军和Akihiro Okada
2008日本咖啡师冠军正在讨论参赛者在拉花竞赛中冲泡的特浓 咖啡口味的日本咖啡师竞赛中夺冠。
5
Hiroshi Sawada：2008 Millrock 咖啡拉花大赛冠军；
任裁判。曾为世界咖啡师竞赛的公认审查员们举办了一个讨
Suphot Leesuwattanakul：来自 Black Canyon 咖啡，泰国咖啡
论会。
师冠军。
机。
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PRODUCT•NEWS
Eureka
DaVinci Gourmet Syrups - Rum
Since 1920, Eureka has been the leader in design and manufacturing of coffee grinders for coffee shops and roasters. Today, Eureka coffee grinders are the touchstone of coffee grinding in more than 50 countries owing to their high quality, precision and reliability. Italian technology and a passion for coffee: This is Eureka! www.eureka.co.it
This New Year, DaVinci Gourmet Syrups introduces their new Rum flavor for you to add to your favorite cup of coffee.
自1920年以来，尤利卡（Eureka）为咖啡店和烘焙师们设计、制造咖 啡磨豆机，并一直是这个行业的引领者。凭借精准、可靠的品质和上乘的 质量，目前尤利卡咖啡磨豆机已成为五十多个国家咖啡研磨的试金石。来 自意大利的咖啡技术与热情：这就是尤利卡！
Hamilton Beach “Rio” Blends Daiquiris in Just 20 Seconds Serve delicious smoothies for your thirsty customers in less than 1 minute! The Wave~Action™ system continually forces mixture down into the blades for smooth results. It has four durable stainless steel blades that are made to get the job done fast and last. The Hamilton Beach “Rio” comes with a 44 oz., break-resistant polycarbonate container with easy-to-read measurement marks. For more info, please visit www.commercial.hamiltonbeach.com. 做出一杯可口的果汁为您的顾客解渴，用时不到一分钟！波动作用 ( Wave~Action™) 系统不断将混合物往刀片下面挤压，使果汁达到滑溜的口 感。它有四个耐用的不锈钢刀片，促使混合任务完成得即快，又彻底。汉 密尔顿海滩“锐欧”配备44盎司聚碳酸酯防裂容器，容器上标有清晰可辨 的容积刻度。如需详细资讯，请访问 www.commercial.hamiltonbeach.com
Lavazza BLUE The innovative Lavazza BLUE system is fast, easy to use, and makes espresso of the best quality every time. It is composed of a machine and a sealed capsule with 6 tastes. This versatile machine can prepare thick and creamy cappuccinos or any coffee specialty you could possibly want with simplicity and speed. Lavazza BLUE is the ultimate result of a process that has been perfected over a century of experience and passion for coffee. 创新的 Lavazza BLUE 系统运转速度飞快，易于使用，每一次都能制 作出品质非凡的浓缩咖啡。它由一台机器以及制作不同口味咖啡的六个密 封舱组成。这台多功能设备可以简捷而快速地为您准备香浓、多奶油的卡 布奇诺或者任何您喜欢的精选咖啡。Lavazza BLUE 是一个多世纪以来咖啡 经验与咖啡热情积累的结晶。
Matrix Software and Solution Our management teams have more than 10 years of experience arranging specializing in Point-Of-Sale providing total solutions for restaurant systems, fast food operations, and retail outlets. We also provide CRM with H/W, S/W, and after sale services. We arrange all training necessary to prepare your staff. We are ready to serve you everyday standard service support ISO 9001: 2000 for Thailand office. For more information, contact Clexpert (Thailand) Co., Ltd. Tel: 02 969-9200-4 Matrix 软件以及解决方案 我们的管理团队拥有超过10年的从业经验，专门从事销售点终端管 理，为餐厅系统、快餐业务以及零售商店提供全面的解决方案。我们还 为 CRM 提供 H/W、 S/W，以及售后服务，并为您的员工安排必要的培训课 程。我们可以为您在泰国的公司提供 ISO 9001: 2000日常标准服务支持。更 多详情，请联系 Clexpert（泰国）有限公司。电话：02 969-9200-4。
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达芬奇糖浆——朗姆酒 新的一年里，达芬奇糖浆向您推荐他们的全新风味——朗姆酒，竭诚为 您喜爱的咖啡献上更多味道和情趣。
The Espresso Quest Instaurator’s book, The Espresso Quest is a definitive perspective on all aspects of producing espresso coffee. Espresso-based coffee is taking over the world. This book goes behind the mysterious veil of the coffee shop counter and explores the furthest reaches of the coffee world: from the world’s highest grown coffee in Bolivia, via America and Italy’s espresso capitals, through Asia, and back to his espresso homeland, Australia. This is book is a must for espresso lovers. www.espressoquest.com 《探索意式香浓》——全书观点明确，对意式浓缩咖啡的生产进行了全面 阐述。以意式浓缩咖啡为主的咖啡逐渐占据了世界的各个角落。这本书为您揭 开咖啡店柜台后的神秘面纱，带您深入咖啡的世界进行探索：从世界上海拔最 高的咖啡种植地玻利维亚，经美国和意大利浓缩咖啡首都，取道亚洲，最后回 到浓缩咖啡的故乡：澳大利亚。此书已成为意式浓缩咖啡爱好者的必读之物。 www.espressoquest.com
Venusta DSK-118-FA A fresh shot of espresso cheers us up when we need a quick refreshment. Here is the answer for making a grace cup within a few seconds: The Venusta DSK-118-FA is an elegant Europeanstyle coffee maker with black & silver tones. Its fully automatic bean-to-cup system enables you to enjoy a fresh espresso with golden thick crema through a hot and high-pressured water bypass with a graphic LCD display. The sugar dose pre-selection is adjustable. www.venusta.net 当我们需要提神醒脑的时候，一杯鲜美的意式浓缩咖啡就可以使我们 心旷神怡。它，就是在短短几秒内冲泡一杯美味咖啡的明智之选：Venusta DSK-118-FA——一款黑色与银色搭配、优雅的欧式风格咖啡机。全自动豆到 杯(bean-to-cup) 系统，高压热水通过的状态会显示在图形液晶显示器上，毫不 费力地，您就可以品尝到一杯覆盖着浓郁黄金泡沫、新鲜的意式浓缩咖啡。糖 份剂量预选可任意调节。
Maruka: DaVinci Gourmet Distributor in Japan Maruka Corporation (Maruka) is a trading firm based in Tokyo. Maruka has been one of the trendsetters in Japan’s Specialty Coffee industry since they first imported Da Vinci Gourmet Syrups from Seattle. After more than a decade of contributions to the market, Maruka has the reputation of being a high quality, cutting edge product importer and distributor for both the food service and retail sectors. The best and finest brands they partner with from all over the world are: • Da Vinci Gourmet: Flavored coffee syrups from Seattle U.S.A. • Esserre: High-end artisan drink bases from Bergamo, North Italy • Oral Fixation Mints: Quality breath mints dedicated to making an everyday object beautiful • Profoods: Dried fruits from the island of Cebu, Philippines Not only a food and beverage distributor, Maruka also runs cafes and restaurants as showcases for their company philosophy: “The perception - bring the new value and choice to life”.
Company Information Maruka Corporation: 4-1-8 Toranomon, Minato-Ku Tokyo 105-0001, Japan Tel: 81+3-5733-6511 Fax: 81+3-5733-6511 Email: info@maruka-grp.co.jp URL: www.maruka-grp.co.jp
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coffee, tea & ice cream magazine A bi-monthly magazine serving the coffee society in Asia