Coffee t&i 10 ch

coffee, tea & ice cream magazine www.coffeetandi.com

bimonthly magazine • vol. 10 • may-june, 2009

亚洲的咖啡、茶与冰淇淋双月刊

THE 2009 WORLD BARISTA CHAMPIONSHIP Interviews with WBC’s top baristas

True Coffee: Coffeehouse as Corporate Identity Ice Cream without a Conscience: Amaltery

contents

14

38 36

40

4 Editor Talk

30 Hot Bev

a note from the new editor

6 CT&I Society

46 Trade Show Preview

six drinks to help survive the rainy season

32 Indy Voice

8 Cover Story coverage of 2009’s World Barista Championship

why business is good at Bangkok’s Bitter Brown

35 Coffee Technique

we talk to WBC’s top placing 36 Iced Aid baristas ice cream with an edge the effects of the economic crisis on specialty coffee industry

24 Nanatassana

Starbucks turns to instant coffee

Hotelex Shanghai, FHI Jakarta, SCAA Atlanta

52 Barista Challenge 54 Cafés Around the World Shanghai’s Taikan Road

38 Tea Time

20 Special Report

48 Trade Show Tour

China Barista Championship Indonesia Barista Competition

syphon coffee brewing

14 Barista Talk

TRAFS July 2009

tea, pottery, and art at the Jioufen Teahouse

55 Baristas Around the World Asia’s WBC baristas

56 Product News

40 Café Design TrueCoffee’s corporate design

Cover photo by Sheldon Ferguson (sheldon@sefphotography.com) Courtesy of the Specialty Coffee Association of America

published bimonthly for the Asian coffee community

Publisher Blue Sky Books 65/6 Soi Chokchai Ruammit Wipawadee Rangsit Road Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand Tel: 662 691 5891 Fax: 662 691 5892 dane@blueskybooks.net www.coffeetandi.com Subscriptions oh@blueskybooks.net Sales pim@blueskybooks.net

Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan Editor Dane Wetschler Design Ellen Chu Coffee T&I Team Potcharawan Sukmuen, Prapaporn Rungkajonwong, Sakuntala Samakkeetham, Nuntawat Kaewcomchard, Zheng Xiaofang, Zhang Bo Visit us online for free digital copies www.coffeetandi.com The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher

IMPROVEMENTS :

Quality coffee for Barista & Reliability

Conti a coffee espresso machine manufacturer at Your service, based on his Distribution Network

1, avenue Albert II - B.P.119 - MC 98007 MONACO Cedex - Tel.:(377) 93 10 43 43 - Fax : (377) 93 10 43 44 E-mail : export@conti-espresso.com Websites : www.conti-espresso.com www.conti-spareparts.com

Editor Talk

An Introduction

A note from the new editor of CT&I

Like many American students, I developed a healthy dependence on coffee when I was in college. Looking back, I see how thoroughly coffee-stained my college experience was. I remember sophomore year. My roommate and I drank French pressfuls of coffee daily. Demonstrating both our ignorance of and appreciation for coffee, we delighted in the sludge that accompanied the final sips of each mug we drank, relished the sometimes-neglectful-ten-minute-brew, and flaunted our blade grinder as if it were a samurai sword, worthy of both fear and respect. Other than drinking coffee, we also made a habit of buying whole beans at a local roaster and direct buyer of coffee, the Coffee Exchange, where my real coffee knowledge took root.

It was at this third place, the Coffee Exchange, where I found a second home.

Through out my college career, I went with increasing frequency. The more my academics demanded study out of me, the more I demanded coffee. The more I wanted to drink coffee, the more I felt it had to be consumed at that particular coffeehouse.

Reading and writing became inextricable with my experience of coffee; although I enjoyed these activities more than anything else going on in my collegiate existence (and still do), I found, perhaps by senior year, that I could not really perform let alone enjoy the former without the latter. The same is true for the inverse of that relationship—I didn’t nearly enjoy coffee as much as when I was also reading and writing. It should be no surprise that I come to the seat of editor at Coffee T&I Magazine with a real sense of arrival and appreciation—I have finally gone professional with my addiction.

I encourage you, the reader, to email me your comments and questions so that we—the coffee, tea, and ice cream industries of Asia—continue sharing with one another and growing together.

像众多的美国大学生一样，我在读大学时就已经养成了 喝咖啡的习惯。暮然回首，咖啡的色彩仿佛已经渲染了 整个的大学生活。记得大学二年级的时候，每天去喝 French Press 咖啡是我和室友必做的功课，这份钟情虽然 在今天看来似乎有点盲目和幼稚，但那时即使杯中最后 一口咖啡仍会让我们意犹未尽，能享受那10分钟的烘焙过 程，或是研磨机内犹如武士刀般锋利的刀片的研磨过 程，也会令我们陶醉，甚至有时胜过喝咖啡本身。即便 如此，我们仍觉得不过瘾，就直接买来 咖啡豆在一家叫Coffee Exchange的咖啡 店，亲自尝试着制作咖啡，这些经历 也使我对咖啡的基本知识有了深刻的 了解。 在Coffee Exchange制作出每一杯属于 自己的咖啡，都让我享受到大学生活 中除了读书的另一个乐那家Coffee Exchange用品店的次数也随之增加。联 考时越是要开夜车K书，就越要依赖 咖啡，久而久之，这家店已经成为了 我的生活中的一部分。 大学时代的我还热衷于阅读与写 作，自从接触了咖啡以后，我才发现 对咖啡的依赖与对它们的感情竟是同出 一辙。那个年代（现在仍然是）这些 活动对我来说，甚至胜过了其他一 切。后来，或许是年纪稍大的关系， 我真的觉得不能放弃其中的某个，大有鱼与熊掌必要兼 得的感觉。阅读的时候必品尝咖啡；享受咖啡又给写作 带来灵感。如今我从事咖啡资讯杂志的编辑工作，这也 就毫不为奇了。不过有一点可以肯定，我终于将我的癖 好做成了我的事业。 亲爱的读者，诚挚地希望您将宝贵建议与意见以电子邮 件的方式联系我们——这个专为亚洲咖啡、茶和冰淇淋 产品而开创的资讯杂志，希望您的“不吝赐教”可以伴 随我们一起成长！

Dane Wetschler dane@blueskybooks.net

4 coffeet&i

CT&I Society News Hiang Kie Coffee: Exclusive Distributor of Monbana Chocolate in Hong Kong and Macau The French chocolatier Monbana appoints Hiang Kie Coffee as its sole distributor in Hong Kong and Macau.

Since its establishment in 1934, Monbana Chocolate has always been the perfect accompaniment of coffee. Nowadays, Monbana has blossomed to be the world’s master chocolate maker with an expertise ranging from the production of drinking chocolate powders to the creation of chocolate and confectioneries.

Korean Barista Lee Jong Hoon Places 5th at World Barista Championship 2009 This year was the first for both Lee Jong Hoon and his country, the Republic of Korea, to make it to the WBC finals, where he placed 5th. Lee Jong Hoon is the national barista champion of Korea and works at a small roaster coffeehouse, Republic of Coffee. Congratulations to Lee Jong Hoon on his hard work and accomplishments.

在2009世界咖啡大师锦标赛排名第五 的韩国咖啡大师Lee Jong Hoon 今年对Lee Jong Hoon和他的国家---大韩 民国来说都是一个新的起点，Lee Jong Hoon能够进入WBC的最后决赛，而且 取得了第五名的佳绩。Lee Jong Hoon本 人虽然仅在一家小小的烘焙咖啡馆工 作，但是经过其不懈的努力，不仅取得 了韩国咖啡大师赛的冠军，而且获得了世 界级排名，让我们为他骄人的成绩和 勤奋的精神表示由衷的祝贺！

Barista Champion from Black Canyon Coffee Goes to WBC 2009 Mr. Pravit Jitnarapong, manager director of Black Canyon (Thailand) Company Ltd., chaperoned Ms. Benyapa Naowan, Thailand Barista Champion 2009 and National Champion 2009, to the World Barista Championship 2009 in Atlanta, GA, USA. 近日Black Canyon (泰国)有限公司董事 长Pravit Jitnatapong先生将率领泰国咖啡 大师代表队参加2009年在美国亚特兰大 举行的世界咖啡大师锦标赛，此次泰国 队的参赛人员是曾在2009年泰国咖啡大 师锦标赛和2009泰国国际咖啡大师锦标 赛上获奖的Benyapa Naowan小姐。

6 coffeet&i

香港香记咖啡有限公司：法国 Monbana巧克力在香港及澳门地 区的独家经销商 近日法国巧克力厂商Monbana指定香港 香记咖啡有限公司作为其在香港和澳门 地区的独家经销商。Monbana巧克力自 1934年成立以来，一直被公认为是咖啡 伴侣的极品。如今，Monbana已在世界 各地蓬勃发展，成为了从生产饮用水、 巧克力粉到巧克力研发和制造的专业巧 克力制造商。

ct&i Society

New World Barista Championship Executive Director “Cynthia Chang” The World Barista Championship (WBC) appointed Ms. Cynthia Chang to executive director last April after a six-month search. Since 2003, Ms. Chang has been volunteering for the WBC as a regional coordinator and as a committee member of the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s United States Barista Championship (USBC).

She spent the past eleven years working for Counter Culture Coffee in Durham, North Carolina, USA, most recently as the director of development. As the executive director of the WBC, Ms. Chang will serve as an ambassador and leader of the WBC and its vision for specialty coffee and the barista craft.

世界咖啡大师锦标赛新任执行总监 Cynthia Chang 世界咖啡大师锦标赛（WBC）从去年4月份开始经过6 个月的人才选拔，任命Cynthia Chang 女士为执行总 监。Chang女士一直义务为WBC担任区域协调员，同 时兼任美国咖啡大师锦标赛（USBC）特种咖啡协会的 委员。并在过去的11年里在美国北卡罗莱纳州达勒姆 市为反主流文化咖啡发展工作，最近晋升为发展部主 任。作为WBC的执行总监，Chang女士将以形象大使 及WBC领导的身份履行职责，并为特种咖啡和咖啡大 师事业进行远景规划。

Cover Story

The 2009 World Barista Championships

8 coffeet&i

The World Barista Championship (WBC) is the premiere coffee making competition in the world. This year’s event took place in conjunction with the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s annual expo on April 16-19, 2009 at the Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA, USA. Through competitions, the WBC’s mission is to enhance baristas’ knowledge of and expertise in the preparation and serving of specialty espresso coffee. As it is also the aim of the WBC to share knowledge about specialty coffee with consumers, the winners of WBCs typically become ‘coffee ambassadors,’ traveling the world to promote specialty coffee. The event attracted 51 national champion baristas from around the world to compete for barista fame and glory.

NEW AT WBC 2009

The Official WBC Equipment: Last year La Marzocco and Kompac were the official espresso machine and grinder sponsors of the WBC. This year, Nuevo Simonelli and Mahlkönig outbid the other contenders and secured contracts for Simonelli’s Aurelia and Mahlkönig’s K30 Vario and K30 TWIN as the WBC’s official espresso machine and grinder sponsors for the years 2009-2011.

The WBC’s selection of the Aurelia, known more for its dependability than precision, came as a surprise to the barista community.

The Aurelia used in the competition, however, was modified, most importantly with a progressive integral derivative (PID) controller to regulate boiler pressure. The competing baristas had only great things to say about it.

The WBC Bar: This year, in line with the WBC’s goal to “promote the growth, excellence and recognition [of ] the barista profession,” the WBC introduced the WBC Bar: four barista stations where the public could taste (for free) the espressos, cappuccinos, filter coffee, and signature drinks made by some of the world’s best baristas. Behind each machine,

previous and current WBC baristas volunteered to make drinks and talk about them.

This was a brilliant addition to the WBC because it educates the audience, helping them understand better all that is involved in the preparation and tasting of specialty coffee.

SCORING AT THE WBC

Competitors are given 15 minutes to prepare four espressos, four cappuccinos, and four signature drinks. The highest possible score is 870 points. Technical judges, sensory judges, and a head judge evaluate the baristas’ performances and their beverages. The two technical judges each award 77 points according to how cleanly, quickly, and consistently the baristas prepare and pull shots and steam milk.

The four sensory judges each award 179 points, scrutinizing the taste and appearance of all three courses, including the creativity and presentation of the signature drinks. Although the head judge’s score does not factor into the barista’s total score, she is responsible for monitoring how clearly and accurately the other judges fill in their scoring sheets, compiling the other six judges’ scores, and docking points for going over time (up

to 60 points, 1 point for every second over 15 minutes).

THE FINAL ROUND OF THE WBC 2009

Though he had competed at the WBC once before, this was the first time Attila Molnar or any barista champion from Hungary made it to the WBC finals. He used for all his drinks a single origin Ethiopia Yirgacheffe from the Beloya locality to demonstrate “how colorful and diverse the world of coffee can be.” He described the espresso as having “a completely amazing complexity, that it is like a blend, but it is just a Beloya.” For his signature drink, Attila started by cooking four squares of sliced pumpkin in a pan next to a small pot of freshly grated pumpkin, butter, water, and maple syrup. He later combined the two and filtered them into a whipped-cream canister with half and half.

For his signature drink, He poured a little fresh-squeezed blueberry juice in each short, round glass of espresso and topped it off with the pumpkin whipped-cream.

Another first timer for country and competitor to be in the WBC finals was Lee Jong Hoon from Korea. A veteran barista, pulling shots for seven years and having competed at the WBC once before in 2004, Lee Jong Hoon was incredibly composed throughout his performance. Even when the music failed to start with the timer, he kept it incredibly cool, smiling, waiting patiently for the head judge to reset the clock and the tech support

coffeetandi.com 9

Cover Story

2

1

to make sure his jams were properly cued. no point in coming all [the way to Atlanta] As small of a detail as this was, it foreshad- and serving bad coffee.” His signature drink owed the professionalism and grace he em- was relatively minimalistic compared to the ployed through out his performance to come. others, but no less unique; he did not want Easily the smoothest barista trick brought to to overpower the espresso with other ingrethe WBC was how Lee Jong Hoon dosed, dients, but rather compliment some of the leveled, and tamped coffee into two portafil- characteristics found therein. First, he preters held in one hand. He passed one portafil- pared a cream made from eggs, Ugandan vater to his free hand and locked both into the nilla, seaweed (!), and a reduction from sour groupheads simultaneously. He used a coffee cherries. Adding just a miniscule amount of from El Salvador for his espresso and a Costa the reduction to the espresso, Colin instructRican coffee for his cappuccinos and signa- ed the judges to first sip the espresso, sip the ture drinks, both from the Cup of Excellence cream, and then back to the espresso. competition. His signature drink consisted As impressive as his knowledge of coffee is of a special cream made of Venezuelan cacao, the eloquence with which American chamColumbian cane pion Michael sugar, and whole Phillips articucoffee beans from lates the process Ethiopia.

This and characterisTHE 2009 WORLD BARISTA was mixed and tics of his drinks.

CHAMPIONSHIP RESULTS poured on top of Whereas most the espresso. describe coffee in 1st: Gwilym Davies, United Kingdom, 623 Colin Harmon an almost mys2nd: Sammy Piccolo, Canada, 619.5 from Ireland, havtical, religious 3rd: Michael Phillips, United States, 618.5 ing only left his way, Michael 4th: Colin Harmon, Ireland, 572 career in finance approaches cof5th: Lee Jong Hoon, Korea, 542 one year ago for fee as if it were a 6th: Attila Molnar, Hungary, 535.5 the barista profestext to be deconsion, surprisingly structed, which made his way to is exactly what he the final round at did at the WBC. the WBC, a place traditionally reserved for For his performance, he served a single orithe most seasoned of baristas. Although it gin Rwanda five different ways, adjusting has only been a short while since he began the dose, extraction time, temperature, and his barista career, Colin displayed an abun- the grind setting to allow different characdant wealth of coffee knowledge and skill. teristics of the coffee to be expressed. His He used a Bolivian blend of 80 percent typica signature drink involved splitting a shot in and 20 percent catura. Dissatisfied with his half in order to highlight and analyze what second round of espressos, Colin pulled two was unique about each segment of the shot: new ones, explaining to the judges, “there’s at first, a “dark sweetness, a nuttiness, a sa-

10 coffeet&i

3

vory quality, and a texturally rich body...then it becomes a bit more tart, a nice pleasant bitterness, a really, really clean, articulate sweetness, and the body is very juicy.” He increased the extraction time and dose to 19 grams and combined the two parts with other ingredients, aiming to accentuate what is distinct about each part of the shot.

After a few-year hiatus, Canadian Sammy Piccolo made his way back to barista competitions and to the WBC finals once again.

Having placed in the top three at the WBC three times already, everybody expected an excellent performance from Sammy, and that’s what they got. His espresso consisted of 85 percent Costa Rican and 15 percent Ethopian. He explained to the judges that he decided to incorporate grapefruit juice into his signature drink because the coffees come from high elevations, which gives the espresso the characteristics of “a little bit of caramel, a mellow acidity, and a grapefruit, especially in the finish.” He poured the espresso into a blend of grapefruit juice, cane sugar, and crème fraiche, ingredients to “just enhance the espresso.”

The World Barista Champion of 2009 is Gwilym Davies from the United Kingdom.

Gwilym began by diving into a treatise on how espresso easily disappoints; it is always temperamental—fascinatingly complex at its best, unpalatable at its worst. He used a Bolivian single origin, which he attributes as having a great depth and wide range of characteristics. The complexity of the coffee, he explained, is what led to the idea behind his signature drink. He gave pieces of paper listing sixteen ingredients he believed are noticeable in the coffee. The judges were instructed to select four of the sixteen ingre-

Cover Story

4

5

6 1. Attila Molnar 2. Colin Harmon 3. Lee Jong Hoon 4. Gwilym Davies 5. Michael Phillips 6. Sammy Piccolo

dients, one from each of four taste dimensions: sweetness, texture, fruitiness, and flavor. Gwilym then combined a small amount of the ingredients each judge had selected, mixed the ingredients in a pot, and added them to the espressos. The judges had a personalized drink, catering to particular tastes in the espresso that interested each judge.

Although this was the most risky signature drink seen in the finals—considering that there were 256 possible drink combinations available for the judges to select—it was also the most rewarding; Gwilym ran seventeen seconds over the time limit, but the penalty did not stop him from winning the championship at this year’s WBC. We at Coffee T&I extend our congratulations to Gwilym and to all the WBC baristas on their success, hard work, and dedication to the barista craft.

2009年世界咖啡 大师锦标赛 第10届世界咖啡大师锦标赛（ WBC ）是世界上首个关于咖啡制作的竞 赛。（今年的赛事藉以美国特种咖啡 协会的年度博览会的召开，于2009年 4月16~19日在美国乔治亚州亚特兰大 市的乔治亚世界会议中心拉开了帷 幕）世界咖啡大师锦标赛的目的在 于，通过竞赛提高咖啡大师在专业服 务和意式浓缩咖啡方面的专业知识， 同时向消费者普及一些特种咖啡的有 关知识。竞赛的获胜者们通常会以“ 咖啡大使”的身份在全世界范围内进

行一些咖啡推广的活动。由于WBC 早已闻名遐迩，今年的赛事吸引了来 自51个国家的顶级咖啡大师前来参 加。

WBC在2009有什么新闻？ WBC官方指定咖啡研磨设备 去年，La Marzocco（意大利咖啡机 制造商）和Kompac（美国咖啡机制 造商）曾是WBC官方指定专用意式 浓缩咖啡研磨机及其赞助商。但在今 年，Nuevo Simonelli（意大利咖啡机 制造商）和Mahlk ö nig（美国咖啡研 磨机制造厂商）投出高于其他竞争者 的价格，紧抓机遇以Aurelia奥雷利娅 （Simonelli）和K30 Vario and K30 TWIN（Mahlkönig）型号签订了成为 WBC 在2009-2011年间官方专用意式 咖啡研磨设备及其赞助商之合 同。WBC之所以选择Aurelia奥雷利娅 （Simonelli），在于人们关注可靠性 胜于精确度，这无疑成为了咖啡大师 界的一个意外收获。然而，比赛中使 用了改良后的奥雷利娅咖啡机，其主 要以逐步积分微分控制器去调节锅炉 的压力。咖啡大师们非常引以为荣。

WBC吧 今年，WBC的目标是“促进咖啡产 业的发展以得到外界的认同，“关于 WBC吧，其举办者的介绍如下：通 过由锦标赛设立的四个咖啡站，与会 者可以免费品尝到出自世界各地著名 咖啡大师之手的意式特浓咖啡，卡布 奇诺，过滤式以及花式咖啡。前任及 现任的咖啡大师们都自告奋勇前来制 作饮品并给予讲解，这些活动均让 WBC和咖啡爱好者们受益良多，让

他们更进一步理解了意式香浓咖啡的 制作过程和品尝方式。

WBC的评分标准 每个参赛者均需在15分钟内完成意 式香浓咖啡，卡布奇诺，以及花式咖 啡各四杯的制作，比赛最高分为870 分。技术评委，味觉评委，以及裁判 长将以参赛者的作品和表现做出评 比。其中的两位技术评委，根据参赛 者制作咖啡和蒸牛奶的整个过程中是 否保持干净、快速、连贯等要点来评 分。（每位技术评委可打出77分的满 分）每位评委可给予的感官分为179 分，四位感官评委负责品尝与观察咖 啡的味道和外观，同时留心于参赛者 们对于花式咖啡的介绍及其创意，再 适当给予加分。虽然裁判长的评分并 不影响参赛者的最终成绩，但她负责 的工作仍是不可忽视的。比赛过程中 裁判长监督六位评委是否清晰明确的 把分数写到各参赛者的得分表上，最 后累积总分，再减去因超时而被扣除 的相应分数（扣除的分数最多为60 分，超过比赛规定的15分钟后则每秒 扣除一分）。

2009世界咖啡大师锦标赛之---总 决赛 来自匈牙利的咖啡大师Attila Molnar 曾参加WBC但无缘进入总决赛，然 而在今年的WBC上，他有幸成为了有 史以来第一个能进入总决赛的匈牙利 选手！他用众多源自埃塞俄比亚Beloya 地区特有的饮品向人们证明：咖 啡的世界是多姿多彩的。在比赛中， 他制作了特殊的南瓜生奶油。首先，他 一边用平底锅烹饪方形南瓜片，一

coffeetandi.com 11

Cover Story 边备好鲜南瓜泥、牛油、水、以及枫 糖浆的混合物。随后将两者以1：1的 比例混合放进生奶油的瓶子里。他本 人认为，意式香浓咖啡是种像Beloya 一样复杂的调配饮品。在花式咖啡的 竞赛部分，Attila Molnar在意式香浓 咖啡中加入了少量鲜榨蓝莓汁，并在 咖啡上添加了他特制的南瓜生奶油。 作为第一个进入WBC总决赛的韩 国选手---- Lee Jong Hoon，是一名经 验丰富的咖啡大师， 曾在2 0 0 4 年 WBC上有过出色的表现，他7年磨一 剑，只待此日！轮到他上场时，尽管 配乐在计时后出现了问题，他却表 现得出奇的冷静，面带着微笑，耐 心等待裁判长重新计时以及技术人 员的提示，确保配乐能正常播放。 从这些细节可以看出，Lee Jong Hoon的出色表现与他本身的优雅 风度和敬业精神是密不可分的。比 赛过程中，他采用来自萨尔瓦多的 咖啡豆去调配意式香浓咖啡；相比 卡布奇诺和花式咖啡，他则是采用 了哥斯达黎加的咖啡豆。上述的两 种调配方法均在众多优秀的WBC 作品上得到好评。值得一提的是， 他在花式咖啡中加入了一种由委内 瑞拉的可可豆、哥伦比亚蔗糖以及 埃塞俄比亚的全黑咖啡豆特制而成 的奶油。 爱尔兰选手Colin Harmon，于一 年前放弃了金融公司的工作全心投 身于咖啡行业，竟意外的闯入了本 届WBC的总决赛。面对众多的职 业咖啡师大的挑战， 虽然C o l i n Harmon从事咖啡行业仅一年时 间，但在比赛中他充分展现了其丰 富的咖啡知识与调配技能。冲调咖 啡时，他十分熟练的把玻利维亚 80%的铁毕卡亚种和20%的卡图拉 混合在一起使用。但令人遗憾的 是，在意式香浓咖啡的制作过程 中，他向评委解释说：“长途跋涉 来到亚特兰大去享用糟糕的咖啡是 没有任何意义的！”因为他不愿咖 啡本身的香味被其他成份过度覆 盖，所以他调制出的花式咖啡量少 且不独特。然而这也不失为一种 个人特色，并且得到了部分人的赞 赏。他准备了由鸡蛋，乌干达香草， 海带和少量酸樱桃所制成的奶油，和 普通的花式咖啡一样，他只倒入了一 点在咖啡上端做为调味。呈上花式咖 啡的同时，Colin Harmon还向评委建 议如何品尝才是最香的方法：先是吸 一小口咖啡和奶油，然后才开始喝。 美国冠军Michael Phillips运用他一流 的口才与咖啡知识阐述了关于他所有

12 coffeet&i

作品的特色与制作流程，他对于咖啡 的介绍方式就如解读一本古书，总带 着神秘和宗教色彩。他在比赛中演示 了来自卢旺达的5种不同的咖啡，通 过调整剂量，提取时间，温度，以及 研磨设置等过程，充分体现出5种咖 啡的不同之处。Michael Phillips将花式 咖啡的制作步骤逐个分开，令人印象 深刻的是，他竟能把制作环节中所使 用到的材料描述得栩栩如生：“黑暗 的甜，疯狂与潇洒，味美的口感，富 有质感的果肉……酸酸的、甘甜的、 清香的、多汁的……”在与其他成分 相结合前，他增加了咖啡的提取时间

的制作时，加入了葡萄柚汁，蔗糖， 以及法式鲜奶油；并向评委们阐明道 理，这种调配方法可以让来自高海拔 的咖啡豆在更加香浓的同时，带着一 点焦糖的甜和爽口的酸。 2009年世界咖啡大师锦标赛的桂冠 由来自英国的Gwilym Davies夺得。他 认为咖啡是变幻无穷的，成份复杂的 口味则最佳。正是咖啡的这种性质， 为他带来了许多关于花式咖啡的创 新。比赛中，Gwilym Davies单一使用 了来自玻利维亚的材料，因其具有非 常深入和广泛的特点。他把一张写有 16种普通咖啡制作材料的纸条分别 让4位评委挑选，每位评委任意挑 选其中4种材料；随后他把每位评 委挑中的4种材料分别混合，做出4 杯不同风格的咖啡让评委品尝。由 于评委们可选择的口味多达2 5 6 种，Gwilym Davies的花式咖啡在总 决赛中险象环生。但令人欣慰的 是，Gwilym Davies并没有因在此环 节超时了17秒种而没能夺得最后的 冠军。 藉此，表达我们对Gwilym Davies 和所有世界咖啡大师锦标赛的选手 们表示祝贺，希望他们在咖啡行业 中兢兢业业，并获得成功！

以及剂量（至19克）。整个参赛过程 中，Michael Phillips尽力做到让观众和 评委们体会各个环节的独特之处。 时隔几年，加拿大参赛者Sammy Piccolo又再次回到了WBC总决赛的赛 场。他曾三次闯入WBC的前三强， 所以观众和评委们都十分期待他这次 的表现。比赛中，Sammy Piccolo在意 式香浓咖啡的调配过程里加入了85% 的哥斯达黎加咖啡豆以及15%的埃塞 俄比亚耶加雪啡。他在完成花式咖啡

BARISTA TALK

In Conversation with WBC 2009’s Top Baristas

World Barista Champion 2009 Gwilym Davies, United Kingdom Why did you become a barista?

I worked in a cafe in New Zealand that roasted its own beans. I realized coffee was an agricultural product and how much better fresh roasted coffee tasted. I could not settle in my previous career after returning home, seeing what was possible in coffee. I moved to London in search of like-minded people.

What is your favorite thing about your job?

Showing people how good coffee can be and that it is possible even out of a cart in a market.

Who is your mentor?

It has been a long search to find like-minded people, but since Squaremile Roasters moved into town, there have been a lot. Tim Styles, Stephen Morrissey, James Hoffman, Anette Moldvaer, and their many visitors have all inspired me.

What experience prior to competing at the WBC did you have?

How did you prepare for this year’s WBC? This was my first year competing. I have been working in the coffee industry for twelve years, so have had a lot of practice making coffee.

Being unfamiliar with competition, I needed both to have a good coffee and to represent it well on stage. A lot of my time was spent getting familiar with the coffee I used. I also tried to make coffee in situations that I found stressful to make sure my nerves did not get the better of me.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the road to the WBC? Competition is very demanding and I did not want to put too much

14 coffeet&i

pressure on my family life or ignore my customers at the coffee cart.

It was hard to balance all this. Another challenge was relearning how to pour into porcelain cups; we use 8 ounce paper cups at the cart.

How was it working with Neuvo Simonelli’s Aurelia machine?

Great—a very easy-to-use machine. Before going to Atlanta I made six coffees on one. I realized it foamed well and produced a good shot—no complications. The machine was never a worry. Features I liked were: the ease with which the portafilter would insert, the button to start/stop brewing was faultless, and the steam on/off lever was great.

What was the idea behind your signature drink?

To explore the idea of a ‘Collectively Produced Best Bits Espresso.’ I gave the four judges a choice of their favorite espresso descriptors. One judge chose from four types of sweetness, one from flavor, one from texture and mouth feel, and one from fruit. I took their choices and added the ingredients to a Bolivian coffee (Colonia San Juan) base.

As for your performance, with what were you most dissatisfied?

Most pleased?

I was disappointed at not handing the judges the envelopes with their choices in the correct order. When I got the choices back in the wrong order it confused me and I lost my way a little. I was pleased that I managed to hold my nerves and concentrate on making good drinks, doing justice to the coffee.

What advice do you have for baristas who want to compete?

Ask yourself why you are competing and keep this always in mind.

Concentrate your efforts on the coffee and be prepared to work hard.

Barista Talk P172009世界咖啡大师锦标赛冠军得主， Gwilym Davies（英国） 你是如何成为一名咖啡大师的？ 我曾在纽西兰的一家咖啡店工作过，那家店是自己烘焙 咖啡豆的。我一直认为咖啡豆是农产品的一种，所以越 新鲜的咖啡豆，烘焙出来的味道就越好。后来我回到家乡 谋生，但我发现我的事业已经离不开咖啡了，所以我 又选择去了伦敦，去那里寻找一个事业上志同道合的人。

作为一名咖啡大师，什么是你最喜 欢的事情? 可以向世人展示咖啡美妙的味道，即 使是不在店里工作的时候也可以。

谁是你的良师益友？ 我花了很长时间来寻找与我志同道合 的人，但自从Square mile Roasters咖啡 店进驻到这个城市以后，就变得容易 了许多。像Tim Styles、Stephen Morrissey、James Hoffman和Anette Moldvaer这样的世界级咖啡大师，以 及他们的朋友都给了我很大的启发。

你有参赛经验吗？你是怎么为今年 赛事做准备的？ 这是我第一次参加这样的赛事。实际 上，我已经在咖啡行业服务了12年， 所以对制作咖啡积累了很多实践经 验。但在陌生的赛台上，需要我做到 的不只是能调制出味道佳的咖啡，还 要有在台上极佳的表现，为此，我已 经花了很多时间来熟悉和训练。此 外，我还要保持在紧张的情况下，仍 能稳定发挥，不被压力所扰，直至取 得最后的成功。

在你步入WBC征程中所面临的最大 的挑战是什么？ 可以说比赛是非常严峻的。我并不想 给我的家庭生活增加过多的压力，也不 想因准备比赛而忽视光顾我的客人，但 这些是很难做到周全的。对我来说的另 一个挑战是如何适应使用陶瓷杯，因 为在店里通常使用的是8盎司的纸杯。

使用Nuevo Simonelli’s Aurelia 咖啡机调制咖啡的感觉如何？ 非常棒！操作起来很简单！去亚特兰 大比赛前我就已经接触过，而且还用 它做了6杯咖啡。感觉不错，制作出的 咖啡品质很好，泡沫效果也不错，绝对可以放心使用。 其实我比较喜欢咖啡机的功能就是：你只需将过滤器缓 缓插入端口，然后按下启动按钮，咖啡机工作，再关闭 按钮，此时你就可以得到一杯完美无缺的咖啡，但如果 能配备蒸汽开关操纵杆就更好了。

制作花式咖啡背后的创意是什么？ 我的想法源自于“意式浓缩的精华汇合”。我给了4位考 官一个选择，请他们对自己最喜爱的意式浓缩进行描 述。考官们选择了4种不同的甜味，一种来自芳香味，一 种来自质地感，一种来自口感味，还有一种来自水果

味。我把他们选择的味道和玻利维亚咖啡（科洛尼亚圣 胡安）风味混合在一起，就完成了创作。

比赛中，你对你的哪个表现最满意？哪个最不满意？ 非常的遗憾，我没能按照正确的顺序去拿考官给我的考 题信封。当我发现是错误的时候，出现了一点紧张和小 小的失误。但是，我很庆幸我能很快地控制住这种情 绪，并能集中精力制作出考官要求的咖啡。

你对那些期望参加比赛的咖啡师有何建议？ 先要问问你自己为什么要参加比赛，然后把答案铭记在 心。接下来就要把你的所有精力都投入 在咖啡中，积极的备战。

2nd Place World Barista Championship 2009 Sammy Piccolo, Canada Why and when did you become a barista?

I became a barista because my brother Vince and I weren’t happy with the coffee culture and quality in the late 1990s, and we also wanted to get out of the restaurant business because we were working late hours.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the road to the WBC? Which time? I think some of my biggest challenges other than winning are being open minded and willing to take criticism; It’s taken me years to really be mature enough to be open minded and it has also taken me years to realize I am not competing one on one with anyone; I just have to do the best I can and realize it doesn’t matter if I win or lose. This year, for the first time I was satisfied no matter what happened; I am blessed to have reached the top three on four different occasions. I am grateful to have even been there once.

What is your favorite thing about being a barista?

I’ll tell you my favorite thing about this business, period! The fact that when I am seventy years old I will still have so much to learn.

Who is your mentor?

I have too many: my brothers, my wife, my boss, and my coach Kyle. I try to surround myself with people that are better then me. I also have a lot of respect for a lot of people in this business who have taught me so much, like Instaurator from Australia and Martin Hildebrandt, the 2nd World Barista Champion, who has taught me even more about life than coffee. And I have so much respect for Troels Poulsen, the WBC champ who won in Seattle. He hasn’t changed a bit from the first day I met him; after he won the WBC, he is still the same, modest guy. That’s rare!

How did you prepare for this year’s WBC? This was my fourth time competing at the WBC. What I did differently this year is I didn’t over work; I got at least eight hours of sleep a night and I did some practice in front of a lot of people on two occasions to get me used to it.

coffeetandi.com 15

Barista Talk

How was it working with the Simonelli machine?

I liked it! They are very nice people and they are always trying to get better.

What was the idea behind your signature drink?

I just brought out a flavor that really stuck out for me in the espresso: grapefruit. I focused on one flavor so the judges wouldn’t get confused because they have so much to write.

I made a grapefruit reduction with half of an organic grapefruit and two teaspoons of organic cane sugar. I added four tablespoons of crème fraiche because it goes so well with grapefruit and mixed those ingredients with four shots of espresso.

能不能打开你心扉，虚心地接受人家的批评。我花了很 多年的时间，才真正做到这一点。而且我也逐渐意识到 比赛中我不是在跟一个个的对手竞争， 而是在尽我最大 的努力去做。不管是输还是赢都无所谓。 今年是我第一 次能持续保持这种心态，无论结果如何我都会感到很满 意，而且在今年的4 个赛事中，我都很幸运地排在前三名 内。 当然，我更满意这次的结果。

作为一名咖啡大师，什么是你最喜欢的事情? 我可以告诉你，我最喜欢的是作为咖啡大师在发展上 的“无限性”！也就是说，当我老到70岁的时候，还是 有很多值得我学习的东西。

With regards to your performance at the WBC, with what were you the most pleased? Most dissatisfied with?

I was very pleased with the WBC this year. It was amazing. I have no complaints. I do have some suggestions though: I think the baristas should be awarded more points for their skill; I believe the two tech scores should be averaged than multiplied by three. After all, it is a barista competition.

I also am not a fan of each judge multiplying the points for overall impression by four; the score should only be multiplied by two. Nor do I think the overall impression should be out of 100! It is also on the sensory score sheet when it has nothing to do with sensory.

Nevertheless, I loved the competition this year! I have no complaints, just suggestions.

谁是你的良师益友？

Do you think you will aim to compete at the WBC next year?

I will try again in two years! But I might not get there; I have to win my extremely tough national competition first.

这次是我第四次参加WBC比赛了，跟往年不同的是，我 没有做过多的准备。每晚我都保证至少8个小时的睡眠时 间。而且为了能更好的适应比赛，我尝试了在很多人面 前同时制作两种不同口味的咖啡的练习。

What advice can you offer to baristas thinking about competing?

Don’t do it to compete! Try to make a difference.

2009世界咖啡大师锦标赛二等奖得主， Sammy Piccolo（ 加拿大） 你是为什么，又是什么时候成为一名咖啡大师的? 那是因为在90年代末期，我的兄弟Vince和我对当时的咖 啡文化和咖啡的品质不太满意，而且因为经营太久的关系， 我们打算放弃饭店的生意。

对你来说，WBC赛事路途上的最大挑战是什么？ 你指哪一次？我觉得最大的挑战并不是赢得比赛，而是

16 coffeet&i

有太多的人了： 我的兄弟们，我的妻子，我的老板还有我 的教练KYLE。 我尽量去接触那些比我技术优秀的人。同 时，我也非常感谢那些曾经在生意上指导和帮助过我的 人，像澳大利亚的INSTAURATOR和MARTIN HILDEBRANDT，第二届世界咖啡大师锦标赛时，他教给了我许 多关于咖啡的知识和处事的道理。而且我还要非常感谢 TROELS POULSEN ，他曾在西雅图举行的WBC赛事中夺冠。 从我第一次见到他直到现在他丝毫没有变化，虽然他贵 为冠军，但他还能保持那么谦逊、平常。这确实是难能 可贵的！

你是怎么为今年赛事做准备的？

首次与SIMONELI咖啡机厂商合作的的感觉如何？ 我很喜欢这种机器！他们公司的那些技术人员也非常 好，而且他们非常有进取心，总想做得更好。

花式咖啡背后的创意是什么？ 我只是引用了我最喜爱的意式浓缩中的一种味道： 葡萄 柚。因为我擅长专注于一种味道，我不会让考官们感到 味道上过于复杂，否则他们在写评语时，一定要写很多。 我把一个葡萄柚切开，只用其中的一半，再加入有机葡 萄柚和两茶勺的有机蔗糖，之后还要加进四汤勺 的“CREME FRAICHE”，因为只有它才能跟葡萄柚的味 道融合得完美无缺，最后再把这些配料全部调在一起， 加入四客的意式浓缩中即可。

Barista Talk

你对本届赛事筹备及评审有何意见和建议吗？ 我对今年的WBC感到非常的满意，如此完善的筹备让其 无可挑剔。我倒是有些建议，我认为考官在技术评审上 应该多给一些分，我认为这两个技术分应该是平均的， 而不是要乘以三，这毕竟是一场咖啡大师的比赛。 我对每个考官把整个印象分乘以四这种方法也不太认 同，这个分数应该乘以二就可以了。事实上，并不是只 有我认为总的印象分要超出100的！无论如何，我对今年 的赛事很满意！我没任何意见，这只是我的一点建议。

你有计划参加下一届的WBC吗？ 两年后我一定会再来试试的，但或许连入场卷都拿不 到，因为要赢得竞争激烈的全国比赛并非易事。

你对参赛的咖啡大师有什么建议吗？ 要时刻提醒自己：不是为了比赛而比赛！只是尝试做些 和平常不一样的就好了。

3rd Place World Barista Championship 2009 Michael Phillips, United States of America Why did you become a barista?

I had been working in Intelligentsia’s production department with the goal of getting into roasting back in 2006. After awhile, I realized that while that aspect of coffee was something I was truly interested in and loved, I wanted to be more in contact with the people we were preparing the coffee for and decided getting involved with the shops would be the best way to do that.

Who is your mentor?

I have learned more than I ever thought I could from a wide variety of people in this industry, but if I had to pick one right now, it would be Doug Zell [CEO and founder of Intelligentsia Coffee]. The funny thing is what I learn from him is usually not even related to coffee, it is more so about how to push yourself to be better than you were

18 coffeet&i

the day before and to keep on doing that everyday. He is one of the most driven people I know.

What is your favorite thing about being a barista?

Simply working the bar. Getting to be in my shop, making drinks for our customers, and sharing great coffee is what it’s all about. I really enjoy the work that I do everyday, and not everyone can say that about their jobs.

What experience prior to competing at the WBC did you have?

How did you prepare for this year’s WBC? I have competed for three years now, and those experiences were very helpful. Getting used to being on stage and focusing on four judges for fifteen minutes is a unique skill set. The main thing I did to prepare was to get familiar with my coffee, what it could do and how to talk about it. If you can do that, you’re half way there.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the road to the WBC? The act of winning the United States Barista Championship (USBC) was easily the biggest challenge. The competition in the US is jaw dropping, and to get to the top of that was a lifelong goal that I thought I would never achieve. After that it was pretty much just finding ways to tighten everything up and get ready for what the WBC would be.

How was it working with Nuevo Simonelli’s Aurelia?

Better than I expected. I had not worked on one before this competition season and it turned out to be remarkably consistent and very easy to get a feel for. The biggest perk though is easily the support. As a company, they have been simply amazing to work with.

What was the idea behind your signature drink?

My signature drink is based on splitting an extraction in half (the beginning and end), and then pairing each part up with the flavor that I find in that portion of the shot. In the beginning of a shot of Rwanda, I find dark sweetness, savory notes, nuttiness, and it is very texturally rich. I steeped some 62 percent bittersweet dark chocolate, muscavado [unrefined brown] sugar, diced almonds, and sea salt in some heavy cream. I then strained this, combined it with the beginning of the shot and served it as a hot drink. At the end of the shot

Barista Talk of this Rwanda, it tastes pleasantly tart and slightly bitter and has a very clean sweetness and a juicy body. I paired the end of the shot up with some freshly pressed blackberries, agave nectar, and brewed coffee. This was all shaken over ice and served as a cold drink. The end result is two drinks—one hot, one cold; one the beginning of the shot and, the other, the end. It is based on an exercise where you split a shot into several segments and taste how the flavors change.

I enjoyed how the two drinks had a concept behind them and still stood up as a tasty experience.

What did you like about your performance? With what were you disappointed?

I thought the coffee tasted great and that I really got my message through to the judges about it all. That’s really what I came to do.

I wish that I would have been able to pour nicer cappuccinos, my nerves got a bit shaky up there.

What advice can you offer to baristas thinking about competing?

Find a roaster that will work with you on selecting and roasting a high-quality coffee to your needs. The biggest advantage you can have is beans better than those of your competitors; the quality and taste of your coffee is what it all comes down to.

2009世界咖啡大师锦标赛二 等奖得主：Michael Phillips (美国） 你是怎么成为一位咖啡大师的？ 那还是在2006年，我就职于 “Intelligentsia”的产品制作部门， 那时我的目标是进入咖啡烘焙行 业。但过了一段时间，我发现我对 咖啡的某些东西非常感兴趣并逐渐 喜欢上了咖啡，这促使我希望有更 多接触咖啡的机会， 想了解那些在 操作间为客人准备咖啡的师傅，而 最有效的办法就是亲自进入这个行 业。

谁可以算是你的良师益友？ 从那些我接触过的咖啡师身上学到的东西超乎了我的想 象。如果一定要我指出是其中哪位的话，那就 是“DOUG ZELL”（Intelligentsia 咖啡的创始人和首席执 行官）。 但有趣的是，我从他身上学到的不仅仅是咖啡 的知识，他还教会我如何使你的每一天都能较昨天更进 一步，并且保持住这种状态。他是我所认识的最能让别 人士气大振、充满信心的人。

的帮助。对于比赛场所的熟悉和能连续15分钟关注四位 考官都算是我学到的独特技巧。最主要的是我做了充分 的准备，我非常熟悉自己的咖啡，知道怎样去调制，还 晓得应该如何把你对咖啡的感觉讲给考官们听。如果你 可以做到这一点，你就成功了一半。

对你来说，WBC赛事路途上的最大挑战是什么？能 能赢得USBC（全美咖啡大师锦标赛）冠军曾是对我的最 大挑战，但在美国的比赛上却让我大跌眼镜。达到顶级 水准一直以来都是我追求的目标，我还以为永远实现不 了。现在终于达到了。今后对我来说，最重要的是寻找 各种途径，加强、完善自己来备战下一届WBC。

使用Nuevo Simonelli’s Aurelia 咖啡机调制咖啡的 感觉如何？ 比我想象的要好。在本届赛事之 前，我从未接触过此品牌的咖啡 机，但事实证明这种咖啡机令我十 分满意，能很容易找到感觉，而且 最大的优点是操作简单。能使用像 他们这样公司的产品让我觉得非常 自豪。

制作花式咖啡背后的创意是什么？ 这次比赛中我制作的花式咖啡，创 意是基于“提取分半”，就是说把 一个味道分开后再与另一部分味道 结合（头部和尾部），这样我就得 到了我要找的味道。在刚开始的第 一杯RWANDA里，我找到了那种 黑色的甜，芳香、疯狂、质感醇厚 的感觉。我在一些浓奶油里放进 62%的苦甜参半的黑巧克力，黑砂 糖，杏仁丁和海盐。 然后进行滤 融，再将其与开始的那一份混合， 作为热饮端上桌。品尝这杯 RWANDA将尽的时候，你会感到 愉快的酸、淡淡的苦、清晰的甜还 有里面丰富的汁液。在制作搭配饮 料时，我又配入一些新鲜压榨的黑 莓，龙舌兰花蜜和调制好的咖啡，放满冰，作为冷饮端 上桌。两种饮料的最后结果是——种是热的，一种是冷 的，一种是在开始放，另外一种则是在最后放。这主要 是取决于在制作中，在哪个部分中，你会把一份分成很 多份。试着去尝试那味道是怎样改变的，直到现在我还 很享受这两种花式咖啡背后的创意，这算是我的一次美 味经历。

比赛中，你对你的哪个作品最满意？哪个最不满意？ 作为一位咖啡大师你有什么嗜好? 答案很简单，就是在操作室里工作。在我自己的咖啡 店，给我的顾客冲调咖啡，还有就是能享受美味的咖 啡，这些就是我的嗜好。我钟爱着现在我每天所做的工 作，这可能不是每个人都能做到的。

你觉得是什么经历让你能站在WBC的赛台上？你是 如何为今年的赛事做准备的？ 我参加过之前三年的比赛，是这些比赛经验给了我很大

我认为我做的咖啡尝起来味道都很好，从那些考官的表 情中我就已经看到了。我想这就是我来这儿的目的。本 来还可以做出一杯美味的“卡布奇诺”来的, 可遗憾的是 当时我还是有一些紧张。

你对参赛的咖啡大师有什么建议吗？ 在选择和烘培优质咖啡豆的工序中，一定要找一位你认 为称心的烘焙师。这样做的好处在于，他能帮你烘焙出 比你的对手好的咖啡豆，要知道，你咖啡的质量和味道 全部取决于它。

coffeetandi.com 19

SPECIAL REPORT

‘Specialty Coffee’ and the Economic Crisis What coffeehouses should do to keep from closing and how the economic crisis will affect the specialty coffee industry in the long run.

WHY HAVE TOXIC ASSETS COME TO AFFECT THE QUALITY OF MY COFFEE? Coffeehouse owners and roasters, like everyone else, are feeling the pinch of a nearly global economic recession. Fewer people are opting for a pricey cup at the café when they can brew it at home (buy it in a can, or mix it in cup) for much less. So, what can one do to keep business afloat? The thought process might look something like this: Should I lower prices?

No, prices already pretty low. Makes products look cheap, as if customers were overpaying before—brand damaging in the long run.

Devise a promotion?

Gimmicky. Unsustainable. Ego-deflating.

Reduce costs?

A common, if not promising, strategy: operate only during peak hours, manage labor more efficiently, cut costs on supplies, etc.

Unfortunately, cost cutting—particularly where costs are highest (coffee, milk, and other food products)—tends to reduce product quality. That said, who is going to hold you accountable for using cheaper grades of coffee? How likely are your customers to observe that the citrus notes and caramel aftertaste have vanished from the espresso buried within their sugar-lattes? If customers are willing to take their coffee drinking to cheaper pastures, they are probably not appreciative of the unique characteristics of

20 coffeet&i

specialty coffee or interested in the level of care with which specialty coffee is made. Or, at least enough so to pay the price such products deserve.

WHO’S GETTING HIT? Every sector of the coffee industry is affected by the economic crisis as access to credit tightens up; however, the retail sector— independent coffeehouses, coffee outlets, cafés—seems to be bearing the brunt of the consequences of economic recession. In Singapore, Ross Bright, Vice Chairman of the Singapore Coffee Association, observes a 1020 percent drop in sales in this sector.

In particular, it is the specialty coffee market that will get hit the hardest. Low-cost operations, like kiosks and stands, may enjoy increased business from thrifty consumers.

Coffee chains usually rent high-traffic retail space and receive a high volume of customers. Chain and low-cost coffee businesses cater to a consumer looking for a quick and convenient cup of coffee. The independent coffeehouse, on the other hand, tends to focus on serving high-quality specialty coffee to a consumer who is both interested in the product and environment of the shop. Specialty coffee is very different from the other coffee and so are the places that serve it. This kind of coffee is a luxury, one that people are choosing to do without during these hard financial times.

Green bean coffee trader Vincenzo Sendalj confirms that even in Italy, where the cost of espresso is around one euro, people are choosing to make the same cup at home,

where it costs around 30 cents. Although Italy is a unique case in that it has an overdeveloped café infrastructure and that the country has been in relative economic decline for the last few years, it is anticipated that as many as one-half of Italy’s 70,000 coffee bars will close in the long run.

Aside from receiving fewer customers who choose to spend less with each purchase, it is also difficult for new or expanding businesses to receive loans from banks. That said, for some places, such as in Seattle, the devaluation of real estate can be beneficial for café owners-to-be; where some people are opening businesses, jumping on falling real estate prices, others are forced to close shop as they lose access to credit.

As coffee houses look to cut their operating costs, they will buy cheaper, lower-quality grades of coffee. Sendalj says that he already sees this phenomenon in Italy: “We will see a decline in the most expensive consumption segments and more demand for cheaper coffees, lower-quality grades, but not a decrease in overall consumption. I see this as a trader; my clients’ roasters are already asking for cheaper grades.” On a broad scale and in the long run, it will not be the overall consumption or supply of coffee that will be so heavily affected by the current economic recession, but more so which kinds of coffee and in which sectors that coffee is consumed.

HOW IS STARBUCKS?

Last year, Starbucks started closing 616 of its underperforming stores in the U.S. Last January, Starbucks’ spokeswoman Deb Trevino

Special Report announced it would close another 300 this year. This amounts to around eight percent of the 11,434 Starbucks locations that were operating in the U.S. at the end of March last year. This news, however, is slightly misleading. In her presentation “Shifts in the Supply Chain,” delivered at the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s annual expo last April, Judith Ganes-Chase, founder and owner of J. Ganes Consulting, noted, “media attention on [Starbucks’ closing shops in America] has been overplayed. The decision to close select stores was taken long before the recession crippled the economy.” Still, the troubled economy aggravates the consequences of Starbucks’ over-development in America. Other measures Starbucks’ are taking to cut costs include: dropping the $1.2 million annual salary of CEO David Shultz to ten thousand, reducing employees’ vacation and personal days, and offering promotions, such as loyalty and debit cards that yield discounts after several purchases.

The store closings in America, however, are not representative of how Starbucks is doing in other countries. The company plans to open 170 stores this year in foreign markets, such as China, Brazil, and Russia. Currently, twenty percent of the coffee giant’s sales occur outside the United States, but this figure is likely to grow as Starbucks focuses on international markets and selling its new instant coffee product, Via. All Starbucks can really do in the U.S. is reorganize and work more efficiently; it is into other countries, however, where Starbucks will significantly expand.

Starbucks serves as a benchmark in different ways to different groups of people: For many consumers, Starbucks is the epitome of specialty coffee. Independent café owners gauge appropriate prices for their products in relation to what Starbucks charges. Coffeehouses and restaurants worldwide replicate the Starbucks menu and jargon in their own menus.

The prominence Starbucks holds in the coffee industry and coffee cultures around the world is undeniable. Many coffee drinkers (and retailers) consider Starbucks as a provider of specialty coffee. Although such qualification is up for debate, how extensively Starbucks affects people’s understanding of specialty coffee is not. It is interesting to see then both how Starbucks is adjusting

its strategy—to offer products of perceived high-economic value to their customers without jeopardizing the perceived luxury value—and how people will in turn adjust their conceptions of specially coffee. Where consumers can now go to McCafe for a cheap ‘specialty’ coffee, how will Starbucks compete? Moreover what can be done to save specialty coffee from receding ever further into the murk of obscure definition?

THE UNEDUCATED CONSUMER, OR THE WEAKEST LINK IN THE SPECIALTY COFFEE CHAIN The problem of pricing coffee at the counter appropriately and according to its ‘value’— an incredibly nebulous word—is not only wrapped up in a wide spectrum of people’s taste preferences, but also in their ethical and political ideologies; these perceptions of value vary from country to country, city to city, shop to shop, person to person. Consumers’ preferences, however, are dynamic, pliable, and a product of their previous acculturation to coffee. It is essential for the health of the specialty coffee industry that baristas, roasters, and coffeehouse owners educate consumers about the uniqueness and complexity of specialty coffees—not only how to experience high-quality coffee, but to recognize the time, work, and skill that goes into the preparation of each cup. If

consumers’ perceived values of coffee do not incorporate these facets of specialty coffee culture, they will be less inclined to pay the price of what specialty coffee can and should cost. The consumer’s lack of coffee knowledge more than discourages cafés from buying high-quality grades of coffee; it affects a reduction in demand for specialty coffee and further exacerbates a historically (and currently) volatile coffee economy.

“特种咖啡” 与经济危机 为什么经济因素会影响咖啡的品 质？ 无异于其他行业，咖啡业同样遭受到 了全球经济危机所带来的影响。越来 越少的人愿意光顾那些昂贵的咖啡 店，取而代之的是自己在家冲调或是 饮用经济实惠的即溶咖啡。 那如何才能保证咖啡业的持续发展呢? 来听听业界人士的看法：

我们应该降低价格吗？ 回答是：不！现在的价格已经够低的 了。顾客以往都情愿花高价来店里品 尝咖啡的，若把价格降低，对品牌的 声誉必定会有所影响。从长远发展上 来看，这显然不是一个明智之举。 推出更多的促销活动？ 这种方式只是一时的噱头，显然不是 什么长久之计。

降低成本？ 一般来说，这也算不上一个好策略， 因其只有在营业高峰时段运作才较为 可 行。此外，店主需同时考虑提高工 作效率，消减原料成本。 但遗憾的是，和其他行业有所不同， 咖1啡、牛奶等食品 制造业中，如果要减 少开支、降低原料品 质，就意味着产品的 质量也会受到一定程 度的影响。顾客必然 会有所察觉，昔日意 式香浓咖啡中的柑橘 酸与焦糖甜悄然消 失，取而代之的则是 普通的砂糖。倘若只 是些习惯于廉价咖啡 的顾客，或许根本就 不会留意到咖啡店 内“精品” 咖啡的独 特味道，更不会在意 咖啡的成分。但是， 作为咖啡店来说，至 少要做到让客人感到 物有所值。

谁与争锋？ 咖啡产业的众多环节中，几乎每个都 因经济危机造成的融资紧缩而受到影 响。但其中比较严重的当属像露天咖 啡座这类的高档咖啡零售业。新加坡 咖啡产业协会的副董事长Ross Bright透 露，今年在新的咖啡销量

coffeetandi.com 21

Special Report 下降幅度为10-20%。所以店内的“精 品”咖啡试图借此机会“扭转乾坤” ，显然是不可能的。相反，像路边咖 啡摊这类低成本咖啡店则逐渐被那些 节俭的消费者所青睐。咖啡连锁店通 常会以高价租下座落在人、车流量都 十分大的位置。低成本的咖啡连锁店 则把经营重点放在迎合现代人的生活 节奏，为顾客提供快捷、方便的咖啡 上；而独立的露天咖啡座则是以优 雅的环境与高品质的“精品”咖啡 去服务顾客。但当今如此恶劣的经 济环境下，坐在露天咖啡座上，悠 闲地品尝精品咖啡，实为一种奢 侈。 经营绿咖啡豆的贸易商Vincenz Sendalj也透露说，现在，对部分意 大利消费者而言，即便卖价为1欧 元的精品咖啡，仍然是偏贵的。他 们更乐意在家烹煮成本仅为30分的 一般咖啡。但这种情况是十分罕见 的，因为意大利有着过度兴旺的咖 啡业，而且在过去几年间该国的经 济在不断衰退。这也预示着将近一 半的意大利咖啡馆（大约7万家） 可能会在近年内关闭。

并不是完全正确的。在Deb Trevino的 发言中引用了J. Ganes Consulting 的创 始人Judith Ganes-Chase于去年4月在美 国特种咖啡协会年度博览会上的发 言：“供需链中的转变”，她强调， 媒体过分夸大地报道了关于星巴克关 闭分店的新闻。其实经济衰退之前， 星巴克就已作出关闭部分分店的决 定。星巴克在美国本土过度扩展分

商家们不但要学会适应少量顾客节 俭的心态，而且还面临着难以获得 银行贷款的危机，这意味着的咖啡 店拓展计划将难以实施。尽管如 此，在某些地方，例如美国的西雅 图，房地产的贬值对于从事咖啡行 业的商人而言却是十分有利的，因 为其中部分开放性的企业和财团在 炒作房价，最终导致企业倒闭失去 从银行信贷的机会。 为达到降低营运成本，咖啡店会购 买廉价但质量等级低的原材料。来自意大 利里雅斯特的绿咖啡豆贸易商Vincenzo Sendalj讲述了他在意大利的所 见所闻：当高档咖啡消费阶层的需 求下降时，市场上对廉价、低品质 的咖啡的需求则在增加，也就是说市 场上的整体消费并没有在下降。他还 说：“据我所知，我的一位客人即咖 啡烘焙师，已经提出购买更廉价原材 料的要求”。但从长远来看，并不是 整个咖啡产业的供求情况都会受到经 济危机的影响，要取决于消费者的层 次，以及消费何种咖啡。

星巴克业绩分析 去年，星巴克关闭了其在美国业绩不 佳的616家分店。今年1月，星巴克的 发言人Deb Trevino宣布今年将再关闭 另外的300家分店。根据去年3月的数 据，星巴克这次总共关闭了大约915 家分店，相当于其在美国连锁店的总 数（11,434家）的8%。然而这个数据

22 coffeet&i

场，以及其新的速溶咖啡产品上市而 增长。此外，星巴克也将对美国的分 店进行重组、整顿以提高效率，而在 其他国家，星巴克仍在日益壮大。 星巴克以两种不同的方式来迎合不同 的消费群。对于大多数顾客来说，星 巴克仍是高价位“精品”咖啡的标 志。市场上的咖啡业主也会以星巴 克咖啡的价格为标准，为自己的咖 啡定价。世界各地的咖啡屋和餐厅 均效仿星巴克的菜单和专业术语。 这些都表明星巴克在世界咖啡文化 中的重要性是不可否认的。许多咖 啡爱好者（或零售商）都认为星巴 克是精品咖啡的发源地。尽管此荣 耀曾引起争议，但星巴克在人们对 于精品咖啡的理解上还是有着广 泛的影响。星巴克调整其策略的方 法是十分有趣的：改变了以往的高 档“精品”咖啡形象，推出了低价 位“精品”咖啡（速溶咖啡），而 且正在努力为此产品宣传，希望得 到消费者的认同。然而，现在消费 者无论在哪里，甚至是麦当劳都能 品尝到一杯廉价的“精品”咖啡。 那么，星巴克又将如何取得低价位 市场份额呢？而且，怎样才能让这 种”精品”咖啡不再默默无闻呢？ 这也是星巴克现在所面临的难题。 缺乏专业知识的消费者是在精品咖 啡销售中最薄弱的环节

店，其后果是使其经营状况恶化。星 巴克不得不通过以下方法来降低成 本：行政总裁David Shultz的120万美元 年薪被缩减为1万美元，同时减少了 员工的休假和私人假期，同时推出促 销活动，比如经常光顾星巴克的顾客 可通过信用卡获得折扣。 然而，美国部分分店的关闭并不代表 星巴克在全球范围内的经营情况。今 年星巴克仍将持续扩展国外市场，并 计划在中国、巴西、俄罗斯等国家开 设170家分店。目前，20%的销售额都 来自美国境外的城市。这一数据很可 能随着星巴克转移投资重点至国际市

一杯价格不菲的精品咖啡，其价格 定位取决于它本身的价值。令人难 以置信的是，咖啡不但可以满足众 人的口味，而且它还包含了人们关 于伦理道德和政治上的认知，这种 认知随着国家、城市、咖啡店以及 人的不同而变化。皆因不断有机会 品尝多种多样的咖啡，让消费者的 口味在不断地变化且易受影响。如何 健康地饮用精品咖啡？无论咖啡师、 烘焙师，还是咖啡店主都有义务向顾 客介绍高价位“精品”咖啡的独特与 复杂之处。饮用精品咖啡的时间、方 式、技巧、和准备工作都是很重要 的，请记住我们不仅仅是在享用一杯 高品质的咖啡。倘若消费们缺乏对精 品咖啡文化的认知，他们就会认为不 值得为一杯精品咖啡买单。消费者对 于咖啡知识的缺乏令他们不情愿去咖 啡厅品尝高档的咖啡，这对精品咖啡 的市场需求量造成了影响，从而进一 步恶化了咖啡产业在经济上的不稳定 性。

NANATASSANA

Instant Convenience, Mermaids,‘Good Enough’?

Why has Starbucks moved to instant coffee?

Mike Ferguson provides a brief history of instant coffee and insight into Starbucks’ latest marketing jibe.

W

hen Robert Falcon Scott set out for the arctic in 1901, he carried a version of instant coffee, but what was then a powdery extract that clumped in water did not approach commercial viability until WWI, when the entire production of the G. Washington Coffee Company went to the American troops. Most soldiers despised the taste yet praised the practical value of a hot, caffeinated cup of ‘George’ in the trenches. After the war, use among American consumers remained limited. Serving instant coffee to guests in the 1920s would be akin to serving freeze-dried backpacking food to your guests today.

Innovations by Nestle and others improved the taste of instant coffee, but it wasn’t until the 1950s and the era of ‘space-age’ convenience that consumption began to grow significantly in the U.S. In 1953, 10% of all cups of coffee in the U.S. were instant. By 1970 that number had grown to 26%, and, correspondingly, 25% of Americans were drinking instant coffee daily by 1977. Instant coffee would cling to this market share through the early 1980s.

It’s not likely a coincidence that this growth in consumption of instant coffee closely paralleled a decrease in overall coffee consumption. In 1962, Americans were drinking 3.12 cups of coffee a day per capita. By 1988, that had been cut almost in half to 1.67 cups a day. Instant coffee did not cause the decrease; it was a symptom of an overall decrease in the quality of coffee. As daily consumption of instant coffee hit its peak of 25%, daily consumption of regular coffee bottomed out in the neighborhood of 38% where it would remain until the late 1980s.

Indeed, at 43% in 2008, daily consumption of regular coffee has not moved far from that neighborhood.

24 coffeet&i

By the early 1970s, the quality of regular coffee had deteriorated to the point that instant coffee, with its new ‘freeze-dried’ production process, could compete on taste. In the absence of quality, convenience became the determinant of consumer choice. It certainly wasn’t price as instant coffee sells for a premium at retail—one of the coffee industry’s great ironies. Most coffee producing countries do not allow extremely low-quality coffee to be exported, but these types of regulations do not apply to coffee that has been processed into instant, or ‘soluble’ coffee.

The result is that some of the world’s lowest-quality coffee, and thus cheapest, becomes some of the most expensive and profitable coffee per cup on the grocery store shelf.

Consumption of instant coffee began its nosedive in 1983 when it dropped to 22% and then never looked back. By 1993 daily consumption of instant coffee was at 12%, and since 2001 it has held steady at around 7%.

In the same way that an increase in consumption of instant coffee paralleled a decrease in the quality and consumption of coffee overall, the subsequent decrease in consumption of instant coffee coincides with the emergence of the specialty coffee industry.

But instant coffee’s road to recovery, or at least double-digit consumption, may have begun on February 18, 2009 when Starbucks introduced instant coffee. The company claims to have been developing an instant product for twenty years and has a patent pending on a process they insist replicates the taste of their brewed coffee.

Howard Schultz told the Wall Street Journal that he has been secretly serving the instant coffee to guests in his home and no one

Nanatassana has detected the difference, which could say more about Starbucks’ brewed coffee or the politeness of Schultz’ guests than it does about the instant coffee. But whether the claims about taste are based on objective testing or the hopes and dreams of the marketing department hardly matters. Even a modest but noticeable improvement in taste over the current offerings in the market could result in a successful product launch and the only significant revenue-driving move the company Some of the world’s made since Schultz returned to lowest quality coffee, has the helm, just in time to navigate a recession. It is a move that plants a flag and thus cheapest, firmly in the territory where Starbucks becomes some of the will compete for dominance: coffee that most expensive and is ‘good enough.’

Far from snide commentary, the idea profitable coffee per that Starbucks has in effect admitted cup on the grocery that it is competing primarily in the arena of coffee that is ‘good enough’ is store shelf. potentially good news for the company and its stockholders. It is also good news for the quality-driven sector of the specialty coffee retail industry, those companies that have stubbornly stuck to their obsessive pursuit of serving the best coffees in the world.

Coffeehouse customers reveal a surprisingly balanced decision making process not unlike the mythical rational consumer, or at least they did in August 2007, when Mintel International Group asked them what they are most interested in when visiting a coffeehouse.

Respondents were allowed to choose as many answers as they found applicable. The top four answers: Reasonable prices 62% Serves me quickly 62% Has consistently high-quality coffee 61% Conveniently located to where I live 61% One must imagine that the percentage of customers who would say “reasonable prices” has increased since August 2007, perhaps dramatically and perhaps at the expense of quality-driven decisions.

In any case, with the introduction of instant coffee, Starbucks sets the stage to acquire a larger share of the price- and convenience-driven coffee purchase without abandoning completely a commitment to a decent cup and the perception of quality. And no doubt, truly exceptional coffee will still be available from Starbucks through programs like Black Apron selections and the Clover single-cupbrewing device. But by and large, Starbucks appears to be taking dead aim at intrusions made into their market share by the convenience sector, which has come to understand in recent years the value of coffee that is ‘good enough.’

Fast food operators and convenience stores, in unison to a degree that seems almost conspiratorial, have come to understand that they need only increase the quality (and cost) of their coffee incrementally to capture a larger share of the quality conscious coffee consumer. At the same time, the quality-driven coffee retail sector could do little to compete on convenience.

To their credit, Starbucks saw this trend and responded with the drive-through store, which averages 30% higher revenue annually than a store without a drive-through. Once again, Starbucks is pushing back, but this time they are introducing in one move a potential increase in revenue and decrease in costs.

For those coffeehouses where proper preparation of a high quality product are still the rule of the day, Starbucks’ move by the light of day into the game of ‘good enough’ makes it that much easier

to differentiate their business and define their niche. The specialty coffee industry was created in opposition to the poor quality coffee that was prevalent in 1982, when instant was still 25% of daily consumption and the niche was simply ‘us’ and ‘them.’ Today, coffee quality exists on a continuum with very poor coffee on one end and exceptional, very high-quality coffee on the other. These exceptional coffees and the retailers who serve them will have an easier time defining themselves in the minds of consumers and competing for their customers as Starbucks lays claim to the middle ground.

“即时、便利”版的美人鱼（星巴克 标志）-----真的“刚刚好”吗？ 星巴克为何转攻速溶咖啡市场？Mike Ferguson（Fresh Ground Consulting总裁，并兼任 Coffee Solutions Inc.资 深顾问）讲述了速溶咖啡的发展史及星巴克最新市场转 型的背景及契机。 公元1901年，当Robert Falcon Scott开始他的北极之旅 时，行囊中就已有了“速溶咖啡”，但从液体咖啡中提 取的这些固体颗粒在那个年代并不能被世人所接受，直 至第一次世界大战时，由G. Washington 咖啡公司生产的 速溶咖啡供应给了当时的美军，虽然绝大多数士兵都认 为其味道极差，但作为仅有的咖啡因的热饮也慢慢地在 军中受到青睐。19世纪20年代，给店里的客人端上一杯速 溶咖啡就如同现在给到访你家的客人端上来速冻食品一 样，所以对于战后的美国消费者来说，这种速溶饮料还 未能完全流行起来。 此后，雀巢等几家饮料公司都对速溶咖啡的味道进行 了革新，19世纪50年代人们对于速溶咖啡的消费有了明显 的提高。此后的一段时期，消费者对方便、快捷的需求 大大提升，这也意味着便利食品的时代来临。1953年美国 10%的咖啡产品为速溶咖啡，此比例在1970年增长成为 26%，1977年更达到了约25%的美国人每天饮用速溶咖啡 的水平，19世纪80年代初速溶咖啡开始在市场上占据了份 额。 市场上，一方面速溶咖啡的消费量持续增加，另一方 面一般咖啡的消费量却在降低。其实这种现象并不是偶 然的。据统计，1962年美国平均每人每天饮用咖啡3.12 杯，到了1988年，此数据迅速下降一半为每人每天1.67 杯。速溶咖啡并非导致人们对一般咖啡消费量下降的原 因，当时咖啡产品整体品质的问题才是真正的缘由。当 速溶咖啡每天的消费量到达25%的高峰时，一般咖啡却跌 到38%，此比率持续到19世纪80年代末期。到了2008年才 有了轻微的反弹，变动为43%。 -19世纪70年代初期 一般咖啡的品质逐步下降，但速溶 咖啡却以其新的冷冻、干燥的生产过程，保持了咖啡的 原味。对消费者来说如果没有“品质”而言，那么“方 便”则成为选择商品的决定因素。但是这并不意味着速 溶咖啡自此会取得良好的销售成绩。对于咖啡产业来说 极具讽刺意义的是：速溶咖啡出现了溢价销售。因为当 时大部分咖啡生产国限制劣质咖啡的出口，但是这类规 定却不适用于那些加热水即可饮用的速溶咖啡，其结果 是： 一些品质差、成本低的咖啡被摆在商店的货架上，变成 了可以给店主带来高利润的高档商品。

coffeetandi.com 25

Nanatassana 但是，自1983年起消费者对速溶咖啡的热情逐渐 降温，消费比重也随之减至22%且毫无回升势头。到了 1993年人们对速溶咖啡的消费比重降至每天12%，到了 2001年更跌到了最低谷的7%并趋于稳定。一般咖啡的品 质问题曾导致了速溶咖啡的崛起，那此次速溶咖啡的“ 跌倒”能否给整个咖啡产业带来新的发展契机呢？

一些品质差、成 本低的咖啡被摆 在商店的货架 上，变成了可以 给店主带来高利 润的高档商品。

不管怎样，速溶咖啡消费比 重的成倍反弹也随着2009年2月 18日星巴克宣布进军“低价位市 场”即速溶咖啡产业的消息而拉 开了序幕，发布会上星巴克公司 向媒体展示了其花费20年研发的 新型速溶咖啡，而且为避免仿效 正在为该产品申请专利。

Howard Schultz在接受Wall Street Journal采访时说，他曾暗 自用这种新的速溶咖啡来招待到 访他家的客人，不知是由于星巴 克研发部门的成绩骄人还是来客 拘于礼貌的原因，客人对新产品 的味道没有提出任何异议。一般 来说，我们在评论咖啡的味道 时，通常要看其出发点，目的是单纯的品尝还是为了增 加市场效应。所以，我们可以完全忽视以上这些观点。 但是可以肯定的是，味道的改进对产品在市场上的影响 会有很大的帮助。在整个咖啡市场不景气的状况下，星 巴克仍能以其远见，创造出此种“刚刚好”类型的咖啡 产品，希望以此来占领更多的市场份额，同时获得最大 的利润。

基于上述原因，星巴克预估出了市场的流行趋势 并通过了增加“得来速”（drive-through）销售点的方式 来顺应此发展。据保守估计，与一般星巴克咖啡店相 比，得来速年均的回报率超过30%以上。也正因为如此， 增加得来速销售网点的政策也再次被星巴克的管理层所 采纳，但这次他们是本着尽量减少支出来增加收入的方 式执行。咖啡市场中的佼佼者仍属于那些注重咖啡的冲 煮方法和服务品质的“高档”咖啡店，星巴克也是遵循 了这次商业游戏的目标来变革的，并且创立了“刚刚 好”类型的较廉价咖啡。无论如何，此次变革使我们可 以很容易地区别出咖啡产业中不同的商业模式及其商业 目标的定位。1982年因抵制劣质咖啡而造就出了特种咖啡 业，那一时期特种咖啡消费者比重仍保持在每日25％， 经营的目标也只局限于“我们的速溶咖啡”和“他们的 高档咖啡”而已。时至今日，咖啡产业出现了两个发展 极端，即讲究制作方法、服务环境的“高档咖啡店”和 货架上摆放着便利、快捷速溶咖啡的超市或便利店。 但在消费者眼中，咖啡的 好坏是由咖啡的味道及购 买是否便利而决定的，这 其实正是星巴克转型的缘 由所在。 Mike Ferguson is a senior consultant with Coffee Solutions, Inc. and the owner of Fresh Ground Consulting. www.coffeesolutions.net www.freshgroundconsulting.com

Artwork courtesy of www.coffeegeek.com

无论如何，星巴克此次进军速溶咖啡市场的想法无 论对公司本身还是对中间商来说都是一个好消息。从另 一个角度来看，甚至对提升特种咖啡的品质还能起到一 定的作用。2007年8月Mintel International Group对经常光顾 咖啡店的客人做了一次市场调查，当客人被问到：您认 为好的咖啡店应具备什么样的标准时，得到的回答 竟然跟现在消费者的想法大同小异： 合理的价格 62% 便捷的服务 62% 品质、标准保障 61% 离住宅位置便利与否 61% 客人中不乏有一些“以价格高低为准则来判断产 品品质好坏”的客人，这种客人的比例在2007年8月有所 增加，原因可能是以品质来作为判断依据而造成的。无 论如何，在市场比例中，星巴克无论在价位还是便利、 快捷方面都占有一定优势。为了坚守其保证品质的诺 言，星巴克又开发出名为“Black Aporn”的新型产品来迎 合较低的消费群体，并同时推出了名为Clover的咖啡冲泡 配套机。许多业界人士认为，虽然星巴克推出面向低价 位市场的新产品，但是常以高档咖啡自居的”美人鱼” 并不能在此市场分到一碗羹。 与此同时，餐厅经营者和便利店的业主也逐渐意 识到，店铺装饰装潢的漂亮与否再也不是判断咖啡品质 是否优良的因素。经营者应该注重咖啡品质（同时提高价 位），以此来获得那些“以品质为依据”的消费者。

26 coffeet&i

Expertise is only helpful if you can understand it.

how MANY? As Many as it Takes.

Ongoing classes and custom training in all core coffee competencies, including barista skills, roasting, cupping, and all aspects of quality assurance.

Full-service laboratory and consultancy providing customized solutions to customers worldwide, from micro-roasters to established global brands.

NOW offering SCAA Certified Cupper Classes and Q-Grader Testing!

Coffee Solutions is the Training Partner for Probat North America

508-422-9233 info@coffeesolutions.net www.coffeesolutions.net Offices in Boston and Los Angeles

Add some flavor to your day with DaVinci Gourmet syrups Start your day with flavored hot coffee: Caramel • Vanilla • Hazelnut • Peppermint Paddy • English Toffee

www.davincigourmet.com.au

Escape the heat with sweet and fragrant iced coffee: Raspberry • Banana • Strawberry • Toasted Hazelnut • French Vanilla

Freshen up your iced tea with these flavors: Lychee • Peach • Kiwi • Rose • Lemon

Relax with smoothies.

DaVinci sauce and frappease powder will make drinks smooth, wellblended, delicious until the last drop: Chocolate Sauce • Caramel Sauce • White Chocolate Sauce

Italian Sodas will brighten up your day: Blue Curacao • Kiwi • Strawberry • Cranberry • Apple

Cool down on a hot day with DaVinci’s high Vitamin C Palm Bay Club Real Fruit Smoothies: Strawberry Smoothie • Mango Smoothie • Mixed Berry

Contact Kerry Asia Pacific (Singapore) Tel : +65 62703833 Kerry China (Shanghai) Tel : +86 21 54265370 Email : kerry@kerry.com

Hot Bev The rainy season has begun in many countries in Asia. In this issue, CT&I presents a variety of drinks to welcome the rainy days, including aromatic coffee, colorful Italian sodas, and fruity smoothies. 现在，亚洲的许多国家已经进入雨季，所以本期的 《咖啡、茶与冰淇淋》向您推荐几款饮品以迎接雨季 的来临。无论是浓香型的咖啡还是多姿多彩的意大利 式苏打水或是水果沙冰（又称司莫奇）都将与您共同 分享这雨季的滋润。

Mango Smoothie To face the rising temperatures, many go for fruity smoothies. This drink is created particularly for those who love the unique taste of mango. 在炙热天气中，水果冰沙可成为大家解暑的热門饮品。 喜爱芒果的人可别错过以下为您介绍的芒果冰沙。

Ingredients

1. Palm Bay Mango Smoothie 60 cc 2. DaVinci Pineapple Syrup 21.5 cc 3. Cooled Water 60 cc 4. Ice 16 oz.

配制 1. 将所有配料倒入冰沙机 2. 启动冰沙机搅拌，完成后倒 入一个容积为16盎司的玻璃杯

Preparation

1. Add all the ingredients into a blender 2. Blend and pour into a 16 oz. glass

Latte Almond Mocha A rich, hot mocha with almond can transform your simple day into one of elegance and comfort. 摩卡咖啡综合杏仁香濃将带给您优雅舒适的一天。

Ingredients

1. Espresso shot 30 cc 2. DaVinci Almond Syrup 7.5 cc 3. DaVinci Chocolate Sauce 15 cc 4. Pasteurized milk 180 cc

Preparation

1. Pour DaVinci Almond Syrup and DaVinci Chocolate Sauce into an 8 oz. cup 2. Add freshly brewed espresso 3. Add steamed milk 4. Top with foamed milk

配制 1. 将达芬奇杏仁糖浆和达芬奇 巧克力酱倒进一个容积为8盎司 的杯子 2. 加入新鲜冲泡的浓缩咖啡 3. 倒入蒸牛奶 4. 在顶部加上奶泡

Blue Yogurt Soda Adding yogurt to blue soda makes for a truly unique taste you cannot find in other beverages. 在蓝苏打内加上酸奶变成很有特色的新式意大利苏打，将带给您新的体验。

Ingredients

1. DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup 15 cc 2. Yogurt 120 cc 3. Soda 90 cc 4. Ice 16 oz.

Preparation

1. Mix DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup and Yogurt 2. Pour the mixed syrup into a glass full of ice 3. Fill up the glass with soda

30 coffeet&i

配制 1. 将达芬奇蓝柑糖浆和酸奶混合在一起 2. 将混合后的饮品倒入一个装满冰块的杯子 3. 用苏打将杯子填满

Hot Bev

Blue Apple Soda Blue Italian soda with the sweet and sour flavors of green apple and lemonade can zap the boredom out of your tiresome days. 绿苹果和柠檬水让这杯蓝色、甜中带酸的意大利苏打带给您通 体舒畅的享受。

Ingredients

配制

1. DaVinci Green Apple Syrup 22.5 cc 2. DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup 7.5 cc 3. Soda 150 cc 4. Lemonade 5 cc 5. Ice 16 oz.

1. 将达芬奇绿苹果糖浆和达芬奇蓝 柑糖浆混合在一起 2. 将混合后的糖浆倒入一个装满冰 块的杯子 3. 用苏打将杯子填满

Preparation

1. Mix DaVinci Green Apple Syrup, DaVinci Blue Curacao Syrup and Lemonade 2. Pour the mixed syrup into a glass full of ice 3. Fill up the glass with soda

Mint Latte A hot latte with the richness and sweetness of caramel sauce as well as the fragrance of mint. 这杯浓厚甜美的热拿铁咖啡综合了香濃的焦糖与鲜香的薄荷糖浆 将带给您充满活力的一天

Ingredients

配制

Preparation

1. 将达芬奇薄荷糖浆和达芬奇焦糖酱 倒进一个容积为8盎司的杯子 2. 加入新鲜冲泡的浓缩咖啡 3. 倒入蒸牛奶 4. 在顶部加上奶泡

1. Espresso shot 30 cc 2. DaVinci Mint Syrup 7.5 cc 3. DaVinci Caramel Sauce 15 cc 4. Pasteurized milk 180 cc 1. Pour DaVinci Mint Syrup and DaVinci Caramel Sauce into an 8 oz. cup 2. Add freshly brewed espresso 3. Add steamed mitlk 4. Top with foamed milk

Iced Almond Mocha An iced mocha with the smell of almonds and rich flavor is the adaptation of the hot mocha. 甜香浓郁的冰杏仁摩卡会将带给您清新的享受。

Ingredients

1. Espresso shot 60 cc 2. DaVinci Almond Syrup 15 cc 3. DaVinci Chocolate Sauce 30 cc 4. Pasteurized milk 90 cc 5. Ice 16 oz.

Preparation

1. Mix DaVinci Almond Syrup and DaVinci Chocolate Sauce 2. In a 16 oz. glass, mix pasteurized milk and the syrup and fill in with ice 3. Add a double shot of espresso

配制 1. 将达芬奇杏仁糖浆和达芬 奇巧克力酱混合在一起 2. 将巴氏鲜牛奶和糖浆倒入 一个容积为16盎司的玻璃杯进 行混合，装满冰块。 3. 倒入双份意式浓缩咖啡与 之混合

Sponsored by

coffeetandi.com 31

INDY VOICE

Bitter Brown keeping it really delicious

T

hese are tough times for businesses around the world. Independent coffeehouses in particular are suffering, yet some are managing just fine. As coffee drinkers feel the pinch of recession squeeze their pocket books, they must make a very important decision: whether to forgo those precious cups of coffee at their favorite cafés.

Mr. Wiman Boonyaratavej, owner of Bitter Brown, shares with us the journey of his Bangkok café and what makes it so successful despite the nation’s struggling economy.

STAY FLEXIBLE, STAY STRONG

Similar to many coffeehouse owners, Mr. Boonyaratavej’s decision to enter the business was motivated by a mixture of two forces: a healthy passion for coffee and cuisine and the boredom that attends retirement.

“I was retired—windsurfing, cooking, eating good food—but then I got bored. I loved coffee and I loved to cook, so I decided with my wife to open a small coffee shop.

We expected to open a very small shop, buy a Conti with two groups, sell some sandwiches, cake, and ice cream, but when we finished decorating, the shop was not small. I started with a little pasta and salad, but saw the customers were hungry and wanted more.”

Mr. Boonyaratavej’s success comes in part from his flexibility, his ability to respond to the needs of his customers.

“During the first few months I was really in the black. We tried to set the direction— salad, pasta, and stew—and then added a few more choices. I added the soup later because

32 coffeet&i

of so many requests from the foreigners.”

HIGH QUALITY IS KING

Flexibility, however, is only a means to achieve something more instrumental to a coffeehouse’s success: delicious products.

For Bitter Brown, providing the most high-quality products reins supreme, but achieving and maintaining high-quality is no cakewalk.

“I would lay down ten recipes for one dish and adjust this, adjust that. I love to eat. I love to cook Italian, Spanish, and French food. Customers love to order pasta and my stew. Everything is homemade. Now, I make smoked bacon with hickory wood. We offer spaghetti with bacon, salad with bacon and BLT sandwiches—these are our bestsellers right now.”

Another issue is how to maintain standards of excellence after they’ve been attained.

“The other thing is training the staff. You have to train them and monitor them well.

You have to trust them, they have to trust you; they have to believe in you. You have to do everything in front of them first. The first two and one-half years were hard for me, but enjoyable as well because I had to do all the coffee and cooking in the kitchen.”

This labor of love, however, has not gone in vain; he sells frappes that seem to defy laws of thermodynamics: “Our frappes are quite thick; you can put it on the table for two hours and they’ll still be intact—it does not separate into a layer of water and a layer of ice. The drink is like a desert.”

BITTER BROWN’S SWEET SPOT

When asked what the deciding factors for a coffeehouse’s survival are during these times, Mr. Boonyaratavej replied that the location, among other variables, is critical.

“It depends on the location. For indie coffeehouses, not being in the center business area or tourist areas means you will not survive. Franchises and high-end brands may have some difficulty depending on location because they have the highest costs and overhead. A few years ago people opened coffee shops because they loved coffee and had the money; they opened so many nice and pretty coffee shops, but their locations are difficult to get to, except on weekends.”

If consumers are going to splurge on gourmet coffee—especially when budgetary constraints deter unnecessary travel expenditures—they will try particularly hard to find it where it can bought most conveniently.

HOW TO KEEP IT REAL

The bustling lunch crowd that pours into Bitter Brown everyday is testament to the business’ success. The neighborhood oyster bar impacted Mr. Boonyaratavej’s vision for his shop. The owner of this particular restaurant had a gregarious personality, establishing a loyal customer base and friendships with those regulars. Following suit, Mr. Boonyaratavej displays the menu at the front of his shop, encouraging the same kind of relationships with his customers to flourish as he saw at the oyster bar. “If somebody wants to talk about the menu,

Indy Voice

ask ‘what’s good today?’ I’m right there to answer.”

This is the kind involvement that is necessary of a coffeehouse owner to make sure the needs of the customers are always met and the quality remains consistently excellent. Engagement with customers also makes them feel more involved with the shop as they establish relationships with the business, products, and the person behind them.

As such, Mr. Boonyaratavej has never done any advertising; the quality of his products and relationships he establishes with his customers draws them back again and again.

The lesson we can draw from Bitter Brown and Mr. Boonyaratavej’s experience is that there are three keys to a coffeehouses success: flexibility, high-quality products, and a good location: “I never do any discounting; I never do any promotions. We kept the price down from day one, and our customers appreciate this. I’ve never even had a leaflet to advertise.

You have to be very patient. If your location is not in a high traffic area, coffee will not make you rich. You have to find the other products – like food, cake – to help your income. Try to keep your costs low. Quality is the most important thing. Someone once said to me,“your coffee is quite sour,” but the Japanese love that, they say it’s fresh. You must screen everything to your customers, or your customers will screen you, and they won’t come.”

-DW

Bitter Brown 恒久的美味

现在对于全球经济来讲可谓是寒 冬，尤其对咖啡店的经营者来说更是 雪上加霜，仅有部分业者依然靠着苦 心经营来维持业绩。对那些习惯于傍 晚时分手里捧着杂志，享受咖啡的常 客们来说，现在到了做出抉择的时 候，是否还要像以往那样毫不吝啬地 光顾咖啡店呢。今天，BITTER BROWN的老板，WIMAN BOONYARATAVEJ先生，来跟我们 分享在曼谷经营咖啡店的经历，以及 在经济萧条的情况下如何取得成功 的。

保持灵活，亦要保持稳定 跟很多咖啡业界的老板相似 BOONYARATAVEJ先生决定进入这个 行业也是因为两个原因：对咖啡、烹 调的热爱和退休后生活的百般无聊。 “我退休后不是做帆板运动，就是 烹调食物、享受美食……直到我对这 些都感到了厌烦。我一直热爱咖啡， 也很喜爱烹饪，所以就决定跟妻子开 一家咖啡店。起初我们只是想开一家 很小的咖啡店。买一台Conti的咖啡 机，卖些三文治、蛋糕和冰激凌。但 是装修好后才发现，这个店面不是我 们所想象的那么小。所以就改为卖一 些意大利空心粉和沙拉，结果发现顾 客们很喜欢，而且想要吃到更多种类 的食物。” BOONYARATAVEJ先生取得成功

的原因之一源于他的灵活性，还有就 是想方设法满足顾客各种各样的需 求。 “在头几个月里，我们对开咖啡店 真的是什么都不懂。只知道尽量使店 里的经营走入正轨。 菜谱里先是沙 拉、意大利面和炖菜，随后又增加了 一些新的菜系，后来还因为外国客人 的要求而增加了汤类。”

品质至上 然而，要想使咖啡店的经营走向成 功，只靠灵活性一个因素是不够的， 还要加上有美味的食物。所以，对 Bitter Brown咖啡店来说，首要的任务 是不断提高其产品的品质。然而想要 实现并保持产品的品质却并非一件易 事。 “起初我们的菜谱中总共只有10种 菜，后来慢慢地增加这个、那个直到 变成今天这样的情形。我本人喜欢 吃，我也喜欢做意大利菜、西班牙菜 还有法国菜。顾客们喜欢点意大利面 和我做的炖菜，这里每一道菜都是家 常菜。现在，我们又推出了用核桃木 熏的腊肉，所以店里能给客人供应腊 肉意大利面、腊肉沙拉和BLT三文 治，而且这些都是现在卖得最好的。 另外一因素就是如何在成功之后仍 能保持这种高标准。 “还有一点就是：培训员工。你必 须要培训你的员工并时常检查他们。 但你要信任他们，而且要使他们也信 任你。这就需要你必须以身作则。头

coffeetandi.com 33

Indy Voice

两年半的时间里，对于我来说是最艰 难的时期，但是同时也是最快乐的时 期，因为我要亲自到厨房里去做各种 各样的咖啡和食物。 全心投入地工作换回来的一定不是 徒劳的。店里卖的冰咖啡看起来完全 不遵循热力学原理，“我们的搅拌冰 咖啡比别家黏稠得多，在桌子上放两 个小时都不会变样，绝不会沉淀或融 化成了一层水和一层冰那样的，我们 的冰咖啡就像甜品一样。”

Bitter Brown的位置 当被问到在现今经济环境中，咖啡 店 得 以 生 存 的 重 要 因 素 时，BOONYARATAVEJ先生回答说 地理位置相对于其它因素来说更是至 关重要的。。 “咖啡店得以生存主要取决于其位 置，对于那些独立的咖啡店来说，如 果没能在商业中心或是旅游景点占据 好的地理位置，那就意味着未来的生 存会出现问题。但那些时尚咖啡屋和 高档咖啡店想要同样靠位置取胜恐怕 就很难了，因为他们最需要的是高层 次的消费群体。几年前，很多人因为 爱好以及具备经济条件，开了些咖啡 店，那一时期出现了不少环境优雅舒

34 coffeet&i

适的咖啡店，但由于地理位置的关 系，客人只有在周末才会去光顾。” 如果客人想要享受一杯上等的咖 啡，但碍于荷包和没必要的路费开支 等原因，他们就会尽量去找那些地点 适宜、方便的咖啡店。

如何做到以诚待人 每天午饭时间，就可以看到熙熙攘 攘的人群涌入BITTER BROWN咖啡 店，这足以证明了他的成功。隔壁的 牡 蛎 店 的 经 营 方 法 使 BOONYARATAVEJ先生的想法改变 了许多。那家店的老板特别喜欢交 友，把来店的客人都当做朋友，使得 这家店有了固定的客户网。为了效仿 此法，BOONYARATAVEJ先生亲自 站在店门前向来往的行人介绍店里的 菜谱，以行动来建立并增强与客人之 间的关系。如果有人想要知道店里的 菜谱，只要问：“今天有什么特色 菜？”我就可以在那里直接作答了。 经常了解客人的需求、保持咖啡及 食物的品质水准不变，这些都是作为 咖啡店老板所肩负的重要职责。此 外，与客人建立良好的关系，让客人 能感受到他们置身于咖啡店与顾客间 的亲密关系之中。这种关系的保持无

论对咖啡店的经营，还是产品乃至幕 后的服务人员都是有帮助的。 基于此因，BOONYARATAVEJ先 生从未给自己的咖啡店打过任何的广 告。实际上，是店里的高品质的产品 和跟顾客所建立的良好关系把他的顾 客一次又一次的带回咖啡店来。 我们 可以从Bitter Brown咖啡店和 BOONYARATAVEJ先生本人身上学 到三个成功的秘诀： 灵活性、高品质 的产品和绝佳的位置。 “我的店从来没打过折，也从来没 有做过任何促销活动。开店的第一天 我们就制定出了合理的价格，而且一 直到现在都没有变过，我们的客人也 都能接受这个价位。我从来没有为了 打广告而印制过宣传单。如果你店铺 没能设立在人来人往的闹市区，那么 你能做的就是要耐心的等待。只供应 咖啡是不会给你带来什么盈利的，你 必须增加其他的卖点——比如说一些 配菜、蛋糕等等来增加你的收入。尽 量做到降低成本，但无论如何请你 记住：品质仍是关键。有人说：你咖 啡的味道比较酸，但是日本人喜欢， 他们觉得酸味代表着咖啡的新鲜程 度。你必须要以顾客为基准，否则顾 客会考虑是否再次光临你的店。”

Coffee Technique

Syphon Coffee Maker

After presenting several drip brewing methods, CT&I introduces another interesting brewing technique that uses a charming syphon coffee maker.

The taste of coffee brewed by this coffee maker is of high quality and will not disappoint. 前几期的ct&i已经给大家介绍了几种咖啡的烹煮方法，本期我们 会给您介绍一种更有趣的烹煮方法，那就是魅力无限的“虹吸咖啡 壶”烹煮法，保证给您带来无法抵挡的乐趣与美味。

Materials

1. A syphon coffee maker (a vessel for the lower part and a tube for the upper part) 2. A filter 3. An infrared stove 4. Ground coffee 5. Hot water 6. A coffee spoon 7. A coffee stirrer

器具和原料 1. 虹吸式咖啡壶（包括上部的球形杯 及下部的圆形烧杯） 2. 过滤网 3. 酒精炉 4. 研磨好的烘焙咖啡(28克) 5. 93-94摄氏度的开水（310毫升） 6. 咖啡匙

7. 搅拌木棒

Preparation

1. Pour 310 ml of water in the vessel. If the outside of the vessel is wet, towel dry it and turn on the stove.

2. Add ground coffee in the tube.

3. Wait until the water in the vessel starts to boil and then put the vessel and the tube together.

4. The pressure in the vessel forces the steam to go up into the tube and mix with the ground coffee.

5. When the steam mixes with the ground coffee—when the water in the vessel disappears— stir the coffee in the tube with a coffee stirrer until it is well mixed and turn off the stove.

6. Let the coffee from the tube flow into the collection vessel.

制作方法

1

2

3

4

5

6

1. 将310毫升的热水注入球 形杯中，此步骤中一定要 注意,若是热水洒到 杯身 外边时，一定要擦拭干净 后，才能打开炉子。 2. 将所需数量的咖啡粉放入 圆形烧杯中备用。 3. 确认球形杯内的热水处 于沸腾状态后，再将其与 圆形烧杯组合在一起完成 装置。 4. 球形杯内的热水由于蒸汽 压力的作用会缓缓流入圆 形烧杯中与其内部咖 啡粉 混合。 5. 当热水与咖啡粉混合时 （也就是球形杯中水将尽 时）用木棒将圆形烧杯 中的热水和咖啡粉搅拌均 匀，然后关掉炉子。 6. 圆形烧杯内的咖啡自动流 入球形杯中即可。

coffeetandi.com 35

ICED AID

Amaltery: Adult Ice Cream

I

n case you haven’t already heard of Amaltery, CT&I introduces the only ice cream cocktail bar in Thailand. Mr. Arnon Hoontrakul, one of the brand’s executives, tells us about this unique concept and encourages Thais to experiment with Amaltery.

THE STARTING POINT OF AMALTERY In 2004 my close friend, Mr. Utthakorn Wattanapongsiri, or “Earth,” wanted to open an ice cream store and create a brand of his own. He invited his friends to be partners and help the business. We all wanted our store to be a meeting spot for people who would like to come enjoy a chat and have cocktails. If we had made it a noisy pub, it would have been too much; However, a candy shop would have been for children.

Finally, we decided to combine the two and the result was a cocktail ice cream store, or an “ice cream for adults” shop. We started in 2005.

AMALTERY’S CONCEPT

Our concept is that Sunday afternoon feeling. We have an ice cream bar in our store. It is a combination of an ice cream store and a bar, which is warm, enjoyable, comfortable, and suitable as a meeting point. Amaltery is a combination of the two words “malt” and “adultery.” The adult’s naughtiness is represented by alcohol in the ice cream.

AMALTERY’S UNIQUE PRODUCTS

What makes us different from other brands is our products. Our cocktail ice cream is made of high-quality ingredients. The milk is fresh and the cream is natural without milk powder. The alcohol is real, but the ice cream has an alcohol content of only five percent, not enough for anybody to get drunk. Originally, we wanted to create ice cream with flavors of alcoholic beverages; we did not think about actually mixing the alcohol and ice cream together. We did not create products intending for them to be a kind of cocktail that will make people drunk.

A MUST AT AMALTERY

We offer more than 40 ice cream flavors divided into ice cream and sorbet. Our bestsellers for the creamy type are B-52, A.T.V., and

36 coffeet&i

Chocolate Orange, while popular sorbets are Kamikaze and Margarita. I would also like to suggest our frozen cocktails. You can mix cocktails with different ice cream flavors and wait until the ice cream melts—personalized ice cream cocktails for every customer to enjoy.

TARGET CUSTOMERS

Our target customers are AB level, working men and women, students older than twenty, and foreigners. We hope they understand the products and accept the suitability of prices according to the high quality of our products. We create good first impressions with the high quality of our products and maintain our standards in order to build up brand loyalty. As a consequence, the customers will be the ones who help us expand our customer base.

PROBLEMS AND OBSTACLES

Our main problem is that people do not accept our products. Many people are stuck to the idea that because our ice cream has alcohol that it can get them drunk. At the same time, they find our products expensive. High costs, not surprisingly, result in high prices.

Unfortunately, some people do not understand why some Thai products can be and are so expensive. They do not consider that we must spend a lot of money on high quality ingredients. This is the reason why we are trying to create a clear understanding of our products among our customers.

ICE CREAM MARKET IN THAILAND Since last year Italian ice cream, or gelato, has become very popular. However, the economic crisis has harmful effects on this business. Even in the midst of the hot weather, the ice cream industry has not been doing well. This is because people think that ice cream is an unnecessary sweet or snack. If people really want to have ice cream, they prefer the ice cream stores that offer their products at cheaper prices. They make their decisions based on price, not quality. However, we are certain of our concept and intention to maintain high-quality products and handle business through this difficult time.

ADVICE FROM AN AMALTERER

Do not judge a book by its cover. I would like people to try our products because they will surely love them. Also, it is possible for Thai products to be expensive. Like export products, they are very expensive compared to other products sold in Thailand. Thai products can be as good as others’, but people need to realize that higher quality has a higher price.

Amaltery:

蕴含在冰淇淋中的 “乐趣”与“温馨” 相信很多人已经对“amaltery”冰淇淋 店有所耳闻，本期的Iced-Aid有幸采 访到“amaltery”冰淇淋店管理者之一 Arnon Hoontrakul先生，请他来为大家 讲述，“amaltery”是怎样成为泰国首 家鸡尾酒式冰淇淋店的。

“amaltery”的初始 那还是在2004年，我有一个好朋友名 字叫Aert Attakorn，他计划开一家冷饮 店，而且要创立自己的品牌，于是朋 友们一起探讨。大家最初的想法是开 一家店铺，让客人可以坐下来一边聊 天一边喝鸡尾酒，但这样就变成了普 通的喧嚣酒吧，可如果开一家甜点店

Iced Aid

又太过平常了，最后大家建议将两个 店的特点结合在一起，就变成了今天 的“鸡尾酒式冰淇淋店”（成人冷饮 店），并于2005年开了第一家店铺。

“amaltery”的理念 “amaltery”的理念是：”that Sunday afternoon feeling”意思是：“周日下 午的感觉”，我们要把冷饮店做成“ 冷饮酒吧”的感觉，换句话说就是打 造介于冷饮店和酒吧之间的模式。在 温馨的氛围中，让客人可以舒舒服服 地坐下来和朋友聊天，这也正好符 合“amaltery”的含义，“amaltery” 是由英文的“malty”(麦芽，或舒适 温馨的饮品)和“adultery” (成人般的 顽皮)组合而成，也就是鸡尾酒式冰 淇淋。

“amaltery”与众不同之处 我们与众不同之处就是非常注重原料 的品质，我们会选用绝对新鲜的牛奶 和奶油，而绝非奶粉或奶制品。酒的 选择也是真材实料，绝非以酒精香料 替代，冰淇淋里的酒精含量绝不会像 酒。例如，一个冰淇淋球里的酒精含 量仅有5%而已，这也是源于我们的初 衷——做出酒味的冰淇淋，而绝不是 仅仅将酒加到冰淇淋中，所以客人们 在享受我们的产品时绝不是在饮酒。

产品介绍 我们拥有四十多种冰淇淋产品，大致 可分为奶油系列和果汁系列。奶油系 列中比较受欢迎的口味有：B-52, A.T.V., Chocolate Orange，果汁系列中 的卡米卡瑟、玛格丽特等也很受欢 迎。除此之外还有一种叫“冰冻鸡尾 酒”的产品，它是用一种鸡尾酒冰淇 淋和一种鸡尾酒混合而成的，当冰淇 淋融化后就变成了一种口味奇特的鸡 尾酒。

目标客户群 我们的主要客户群定位在公司的白领 人士和20岁以上的大学生，同时也包 括在泰的外籍人士，当然这需要他们 能信任我们的产品并接受价格。我们 的原则是让客人在第一次接触产品时 就因产品的良好品质而留下深刻的印 象，所以保持高品质亦是在保证品 牌，而客人的良好口碑也正是在为品 牌做宣传。

问题与困难 我们现有的问题是：大部分人都会认 为食用加入鸡尾酒的冰淇淋犹如在饮 酒，因此我们的产品尚未被众多消费 者所接受。还有一点就是价格问题， 由于成本高而造成的价位高。大多数 消费者都会产生疑问，国产产品为什 么价位如此之高，而此时他们忽略了

产品的高品质原料导致成本高的原 因。所以我们正在努力使消费者增加 对我们产品的了解，让他们能够接受 新的理念。

泰国冰淇淋市场概览 在过去的一年里不难看出意大利口味 的冰淇淋正在逐渐得到市场的认同。 由于全球经济不景气，致使在泰国特 有的炎热天气环境下冰淇淋市场还是 没有得到应有的发展。绝大多数人仍 把冰淇淋作为零食、奢侈消费品而非 必需品来对待，即使在消费时一般也 会选择价位较低的品牌，会认为有甜 甜的、冰凉的感觉就可以了，所以“ 注重价格而不注重品质”的观念导致 了目前国内冰淇淋市场的价格竞争十 分激烈。目前我们公司仍会以“品质 为主”的理念来迎合当前市场的状 态，努力维持、度过难关。

追加建议 希望大家能正确看待我们的冰淇淋产 品，不要“以貌取人”。诚心邀请您 亲自体验一下，保证让您“流连忘 返”！同时不要总认为国产货就一定 要便宜，品质好的东西到哪里价位都 会高，正象俗语所说的“便宜没好 货，好货不便宜”。相信泰国人也能 做出高品质的产品来，泰国人是不会 输给任何人的。

coffeetandi.com 37

TEA TIME

Jioufen Teahouse J

ioufen is a mountain city. It is located in the foothills of the northeast face of Keelung Mountain in Taiwan. In the 1980s, the town experienced the disappearance of its golden age—empty chairs and empty tables.

Mr. Hong Zhisheng is the owner of Jioufen Teahouse, a hundred-year-old house, that used to be owned by the legendary Weng Shanying. Mr. Hong opened the first teahouse in the area in September 1991.

Let’s visit the Jioufen Teahouse now!

THE BEGINNING

Jioufen Teahouse used to be the Shuichi Clinic. When Mr. Hong took ownership, the property fell under his protection. At first, he took the property for like-minded friends to use as a place to paint. Later on, according to his friends’ suggestions, the place was opened to the public on holidays.

Responding to popular demand, Mr. Hong opened the teahouse and, subsequently, the pottery workshop and art gallery.

Mr. Hong is a tea person. He visited all the famous shops in Taiwan and selected the best products available to make his teahouse successful. Tea sets are designed by Mr. Hong first and then made in his the pottery workshop.

BUSINESS CONCEPT

The canvas hanging outside the teahouse says, “Tea, Pottery, Painting,” i.e., the business concept of the shop. His aim is— through his tea, tea sets, and the art displayed in his shop—to have customers experience an artistic atmosphere in which Mr. Hong intends to bring the arts to people’s lives and art to life.

TARGET CUSTOMERS

There are no target customers here; everyone is welcome. At the very begining, Mr. Hong’s family and neighbors were not opti-

38 coffeet&i

mistic about the openning of the teahouse.

However, with Mr. Hong’s persistence, time proved his shop could be a success.

SIGNATURE DRINK

The signature drink in the shop is called Oriental Beauty. In this drink, high-quality tea leaves are selected from a number of famous teahouses and blended together. No matter where the customers come from, they all can enjoy the experience. The teahouse recommends customers take back home the unused tea leaves.

DIFFICULTIES

After the Xangsane Hurricane in 2001, the traffic through the area decreased significantly. This impacted business in Jioufen adversely, including the Jioufen Teahouse. Mr. Hong considered discontinuing his business; however, Mr. Hong and his colleagues held a meeting and concluded to work hard together to keep the business.

COMPETITORS

Mr. Hong pays close attention to the changes in the market. For example, he recognized that during the ‘self-renewal movement,’ 90 percent of his customers were from Taiwan while foreign tourists comprised 10 percent.

Now, the teahouse’s clientele 50 percent of each group. Mr. Hong does not want Jioufen Teahouse to be exclusively identified as a tourist destination; simply hopes that the shop will retain the spirit of art and beauty that was at the root of the shop’s inception.

STAFF TRAINING

Mr. Hong encourages the staff to improve their language skills to cater to the significant tourist clientele. The staff goes through a rigorous training; the process of pouring water in particular is taught with great care and precision.

FOR NEWCOMERS

Due to the unique climate and topography in Jioufen, Mr. Hong recommends people interested in opening a teahouse there choose durable, wind and waterproof materials when designing their shops. Because the government put teahouses into the same category of the Eight Businesses, the Ministry of Health and Sanitation has to supervise them with the same standards resturaunts are held to. If one chooses to use wood, one must consider the termite problem. The design and decoration should accord with the needs of the shop owner and trends he or she is concerned with. Jioufen Teahouse combined tea, pottery, and painting together successfully. By following its own unique vision the shop has became a landmark teahouse in Taiwan and put Jioufen back on the map.

九份茶坊 九份这座山城，位于台湾东北海岸 最前线的基隆山，经历过八十年代金 脈淘尽、人去楼空的萧瑟。“九份茶 坊”负责人洪志胜先生得到了当年金 矿当家大阿哥翁山英的百年古昔(现 为历史建筑)，并于1991年9月开设了

Tea Time

The Oolong Cat

On the way from Jioufen Teahouse to the Sky City, one can see a lovely Oolong cat-shaped street lamp as a guide. This lovely round bodied cat was created by the landlady when she was pregnant. Its holes are in the shape of Oolong tea.

乌龙猫的小故事 从九份茶坊到天空之城 的路上,可以看到一个作为向 导的可爱的乌龙猫造型路 灯。原来，这只有着浑圆体 态的猫咪，是老板娘在怀孕 期间创作的，它身上的洞孔 正是乌龙茶叶的形状。

The Origin of Jioufen Jioufen means The Land of Gold in the Pingpu language 当地第一家茶坊，现在就让我们对 九份茶坊进行一次探访吧!

九份的由来 “九份”为平埔族語,原意为产金之地。

店之初,洪先生的家人和街坊邻居对 此并不看好,但后来时间证明了他的 坚持是正确的。

认定为接待国外观光客的茶馆，他只 希望茶坊能够保持将艺术生活化和坚 持对美的追求。

招牌茶饮

员工培训

店內招牌茶是“东方美人”；茶坊內 茶叶都是从一些老茶楼里选出的高品 质茶叶，不管顾客來自何方，都能在 相同的消费水平下得到一样的享受。 茶坊还鼓励顾客将喝不完的茶叶带回 家享用。

员工都经过专门训练，就连加水的基 本动作也是严格训练出来的。

开始 “九份茶坊”的原身是“水池诊所” ，在归为负责人洪先生名下之后，洪 先生便以保存的心态保留，并将之作 为一个让画友共同进行绘画创作的空 间。后来在朋友的建议下,开始在假 日对此地进行开放。最后，通过民意 调查，茶坊的经营才真正开始。随 后，陶工坊、天空之城及九份艺术馆 也先后成立。洪先生本身是喝茶之 人,为开店走访了全台湾知名茶馆， 去精选店內用于沖泡的茶品。茶坊內 的茶具先由洪先生设计，再经陶工坊 制作,以呈现其在地艺术价值。

经营理念 茶坊外挂的画布上写着“茶、陶、 画”，即为茶坊的经营理念：希望顾 客能够从茶、茶具到店內的油画中感 受到洪先生立意营造的气氛——艺术 生活化；生活艺术化。

目标顾客 在这里没有目标顾客,只有分享。开

困难 2001年象神飓风过后，周遭道路受 创，九份一带的生意都受到连带影 响,九份茶坊也不例外,当时也考虑过 停止营业，洪先生召集同事开会，最 后大家決定一起努力坚持下去。

竞争者 竞争者就是自己。洪先生随时注意市 场变化，例如以前自强活动盛行时, 台湾的顾客占90%，国外观光客占 10%； 而现在则各占一半，所以茶坊 特別注重员工语言能力的提高。但洪 先生也强调，他并不希望九份茶坊被

寄语后来者 在九份，由于气候及地形的特殊性， 所以如果要在此地开店，洪先生个人 建议购买裝潢建材的时候必须选择耐 用、防风、防水的；如果选用木质建 材，则必须考虑白蚁问题。应就茶店 本身的需求及走向去设计裝潢。九份 茶坊成功的将茶、陶与画美妙结合, 并创造出条状的休闲艺术区域，成功 地成为九份的代表性茶坊。 以往政府认为茶馆属于八大行业之 一，卫生主管机关会用餐厅的标准来 要求，甚至要求在茶馆内裝纱窗，后 来几经争取问题才得到了解決。对于 目前台湾的茶市，九份茶坊所能作到 的就是严格要求自己，向顾客提供优 质的茶，与此同时为进来店里的每位 客人带上茶、陶、画結合的美感，相 信市场的机制会对此做出评断。

coffeetandi.com 39

CAFÉ DESIGN — iPhones, cameras, calling plans: things you do not typically find for sale in a café, yet they can all be purchased at TrueCoffee.

TrueCoffee—merely one appendage of the True corporate behemoth—functions as a “lifestyle retail-shop,” a synergistic stew of True’s Internet, telecom, multimedia, credit, and, of course, café services. Although the slogan ‘more than just (insert your noun of choice)’ is hackneyed beyond credibility, TC offers more than just coffee, truly.

Designing True: Coffeehouse as Corporate Identity

MORE THAN JUST COFFEE

As committed to educating customers about high-quality coffee as it is outfitting them with high-tech gadgets, TrueCoffee(TC) is a “branding shop,” according to Mr. Nitipat Dennapasurapong, TrueCoffee’s assistant director. TC is a “lifestyle retail-shop” in that it offers several of True’s many IT related products to a body of customers who probably also appreciate good coffee and the environment in which it is most typically enjoyed: a coffeehouse.

TC is one of the few shops in Thailand that offers coffee from around the world for customers to order filter-brewed by the cup.

The roasts of the day are listed on a black board behind the cashier counter. Customers can request which beans they would like to try and the baristas will make it for them.

“We wanted to introduce something new to the Thai consumer, so we brought in filter-brewed coffee for the customers to experience coffee beans from all around the world. We want to educate the customer

40 coffeet&i

to drink good coffee, rather than just an iced-blended-cream-something. This can differentiate us from our competitors.”

Good coffee is not the only thing that differentiates TC from its competitors. TC provides “True services where you can pay your bills using True Money or subscribe to a True Move phone plan. If you use True Move, you get True Visions for free.” TrueCoffee is just one subsidiary of the True corporate umbrella: True Move, True Online, True Vision, True Money, etc.

TrueCoffee is a place where True’s services converge; the coffeehouses serve as physical manifestations for something much larger, the locus of True’s corporate identity.

to each location’s target customer group, working to create a brand at once recognizable yet distinct for different consumers. TC Chamchuree Square is built next to the campus of Chulalongkorn University. The long library tables, brass desk lamps, chandeliers, and—most impor tantly—“Innovative Book Space” (with its own librarian!) invite students into a familiar and comfortable atmosphere for study. Where there is a floor-to-ceiling library bookshelf bisecting the TrueCoffee Chamchuree Square branch, there is an equally proportional and impressive television display spanning the lengths of the sidewalls at TrueCoffee Paragon.

In contrast, the TC branch at Paragon, one of Thailand’s most posh shopping malls, is designed to pull in the most serious of shoppers. A matrix of fluttering black and

“Design-wise, we adapt according to the community.”

CONSUMER ORIENTED DESIGN

Every TrueCoffee branch is designed to appeal

Café Design

red wafers dominates behind the shop’s wall-to-wall glass facade, oscillating between advertisements for True Move and the new iPhone 3G. The shelves that line the walls are home to a potpourri of consumer products instead of books. Behind the cashier’s counter, canned and jarred goods (olives, jam, vinegar, etc.) are displayed like antiques to be admired. Showcased in a similar fashion, to the right of the counter is the more fittingly themed wall of vintage telephones, lomographic cameras, iPhone/iPod accessories, and newly released imported CDs. Although TrueCoffee is a chain, its brand identity is more fluid than others’ because each shop demonstrates unique qualities that cater to unique groups of consumers.

TrueCoffee’s design principles characterize True as a brand that is as technologically savvy as it is trend conscious, as concerned with the quality of its products as it is with the aesthetic preferences of its customers.

Whether TrueCoffee is a coffeehouse that

happens to sell IT products or an IT shop that happens to sell coffee is a negligible juxtaposition—it succeeds so well at being both.

TrueCoffee is one of the fastest growing coffee chains in Thailand and Bangkok’s must-visit coffeehouse, bakery and gettogether place.

-DW

True式设计：以咖啡屋 树立企业形象 iPhone、相机、calling plans：这些通 常不能在咖啡屋找到的东西，现在都 可以在True咖啡找到。True咖啡—— True这个巨头企业旗下的一个小小分 枝，以“贴近生活的零售店”方式面 向消费者，以True 互联网、电信、多 媒体、信贷，当然还有咖啡服务为一 体。虽然他们的口号 “不仅仅只是（ 插入您自己所选的名词）”是信誉之 外的陈词滥调，但True咖啡提供的确 实不仅仅只有咖啡而已。

不仅仅只是咖啡 True咖啡设备精良、技术先进，一直 致力于让顾客了解高品质的咖啡。按 副经理Nitipat Dennapasurapong先生 的说法，True咖啡是一个“品牌店” 。它是一个“贴近生活的零售店”， 因为它还提供一些Ture品牌下的IT产

coffeetandi.com 41

Café Design

“我想我们应该增 加一些让我们的顾客 感到舒适和温暖的东 西，而不仅仅是开一 个零售店、IT或者电 话商店。” 品，让顾客在最舒适的咖啡屋内享受 咖啡的同时，还能收获别的乐趣。 True咖啡是泰国为数不多的几个为顾 客提供世界各地杯装滴滤咖啡的咖啡 屋。每天烘焙豆的名称都被列到收银 台后面的一块黑板上。顾客可以选择 不同的咖啡豆，根据不同喜好，咖啡 师们总能为他们冲泡一杯满意的咖 啡。 “我们想给泰国消费者介绍一些新的 东西，所以我们推出了滴滤咖啡，让 消费者品尝世界各地不同种类咖啡豆 的味道。我们希望能够引导消费者去 喝优质咖啡，而不是那些冰块和奶油 混合的饮品。这是我们和竞争者之间 最大的区别。” 优质咖啡并不是True咖啡和别的咖啡 屋之间唯一的不同之处。他们还提 供“真正的服务：您可以用您的True 币或者通过认购true移动电话计划来 付款；如果您加入Ture移动计划， 您就可以得到免费的True Visions” 。Ture咖啡只是Ture企业旗下的一个 小分枝，另外还包括True Move, True Online, True Vision, True Money等 等。Ture咖啡是True服务的一个衔接 点，只是True这样一个雄厚企业实体 下一个小小的形象代表。

42 coffeet&i

以消费者为中心的设计 每一个True咖啡分店都是按照不同 区域内目标客户的不同特点来设计 的，目的是设计出一 个家喻户晓、极易识别 品牌，而针对不同分 店的特点，设计风格 又各不相同。True咖啡 Chamchuree广场建在朱 拉隆功大学旁。图书馆 的长桌、黄铜台灯、吊 灯以及最重要的——“ 创新图书空间”（配有 自己的图书管理员！） 将学生引入一个既熟悉 又舒适的学习氛围。一 个落地书架将True咖啡 Chamchuree分店一分为二；一台比例 一样的大屏横跨在Paragon True咖啡 的侧壁上。

像陈列珍贵的古董一样，摆放着许多 罐装、瓶装产品（橄榄油、果酱、 醋等等）。柜台右边，陈列柜内， 以同样的方式更为贴切地展示着老 式电话、lomographic相 机、iPhone/iPod附件以 及最新发行的进口CD。 虽然True咖啡是一个 连锁店，但其品牌标识 却比其它更强烈。因为 每个不同的分店都有其 独特的品质，能够迎合 不同的顾客群体。Ture 咖啡设计理念是要突出 True这个品牌，要能体 现产品品质，并迎合客 户的审美偏好。不管 Ture咖啡本是咖啡屋，而辅以IT产品 销售；还是咖啡销售只是最为一个微 不足道的并存——它在双方面取得的 成功都是不容忽视的。 True是泰国发展最快的、曼谷最不 容错过的咖啡连锁店、面包店和聚会 的地方之一。 “采用明智的设计，我们要适应社

“采用明智的 设计，我们 要适应社会， 争 取与社会 同步。”

与之相反，Ture咖啡Paragon分店， 坐落在泰国最时尚的商场内，设计的 初衷是为了吸引到那些最热衷购物的 人。排列成矩阵的黑色、红色晶片， 装饰着咖啡屋玻璃墙的正面，在True Move和最新iPhone 3G产品广告之间 轻轻摇摆。货架上摆放的不是书本， 而是家用和系列消费品。收银台后，

会，争取与社会同步。” “我想我们应该增加一些让我们的顾客 感到舒适和温暖的东西，而不仅仅是开一 个零售店、IT或者电话商店。”

-DW

Trade Show Preview

2-4 July 2009 @ Holiday Inn Chiang Mai

31 July - 2 August 2009 @ Royal Phuket City

27-29 August 2009 @ Peach : The Royal Cliff Beach Resort

24-26 September 2009 @ Samui Palm Beach Resort

Exclusive Fantastic 4 Local Hoteliers Events of The Year 2009 此次活动内容丰富多样。除了举办各式各样的酒店业、餐饮业的专业能力竞赛以外， 还将举办与之相关的贸易博览会。活动将以树立泰国国内酒店业、餐厅及饮食业的良 好形象为主题，以此来吸引更多的包括酒店业经营者、游客、在校大学生及一般的民 众的参与。

The Combination of “food & hospitalities competition” with “hospitality trade expo”. Emphasizeson PR for the good images of the 4 Local Hoteliers Events 为了此次各地区“酒店业者”的大型活动的举行，而召开的年度聚会。

Once a year of exclusive single event in each potential local hoteliers’ association 举办地区级的“酒店业者”专业能力比赛，以此来筛选出地区代表，随后才能参加国 家级乃至世界级的酒店专业比赛。

Searching for the representatives of its region by challenging the winner of The Professional Hoteliers Competition to join inthe Thailand hoteliers championship event and the international professional hotelier competition 得到了当地政府部门、私营企业及各类“酒店业者”协会、组织和俱乐部的大力支持。

Well great supported by all the government & private sector, including of the hoteliers’ organization, associations, clubs in every areas 为开发地区旅游业而举办的学术活动、培训、座谈会及相关会议。

Hoteliers’educational activities; training, seminar, meeting for improving its own tourism industry

Thailand Retail, Food & Hospitality Services (TRAFS) 2009 July 16-19, 2009 Bitec, Bangkok, Thailand Thailand Retail, Food & Hospitality Services 2009, the best and largest food, hotel, and retail show in Thailand, will be held on July 16-19, 2009 at Bitec, Bangkok, Thailand. The show will feature more than fifteen business categories, such as hotel/catering equipment and supplies, chilling and freezing equipment, tableware/accessories, cleaning equipment and supplies, information systems, laundry equipment, security systems, coffee equipment and supplies, and bakery and ice cream equipment.

TRAFS 2009 will also highlight the newest concept in food and hospitality show in Thailand: kitchen and banquet design, hotel room tech, and tableware showcases. Furthermore, TRAFS 2009 will also for the first time in Thailand feature a Japanese pavilion along with comprehensive activities, like Japanese food competitions and workshops. On top of that, there are more than ten seminars that address the current economic situation as it relates to the hospitality industry, both locally and internationally.

For more information, visit www.thailandhoreca.com, or call 662 861 4013 ext 105-7. 不容错过的2009 泰国年泰国零售、食品及服务行业展览 Kawin国际贸易有限公司董事长Kawin Kittiboonya先生，日前向本刊透露，2009年泰 国零售、食品及服务行业展览将于今年7月16~19日在曼谷挽那BITEC国际会展中心举 行，本会将吸引30多个国家的参展商前来展示近15大类的展品，包括：厨房用品、餐 具、咖啡烘焙、研磨机械及配件、清洁液体及清洁用具、洗涤设备、酒店客房的洗烫 衣设备、各种应用软件、各种饮料等等，其中主要的参展商来自美国、欧洲、中国、 日本、韩国和澳洲等一些国家 会展中除精彩的展示活动以外，还会举办一些从未有过的促销活动，比如“Kitchen & Banquet Design Showcase”活动；酒店预定系统展览；鸡尾酒晚会或狂欢派专用餐具 展；日本料理比赛，中餐厨艺表演等等。 如果您对比赛感兴趣或是想要来参加此次会展，请电话至02-861-4013 转 114 联系人，Khun Wanita 或登录我们的网站 www.thailandhoreca.com

46 coffeet&i

Trade Show Tour

Hotelex Shanghai 2009 March 31 – April 3, 2009 Shanghai New International Expo Center, Shanghai, China

The 18th edition of the Shanghai International Hospitality Equipment & Supply Expo set new records this year. With more than 3,029 booths in an area of 60,000 square meters and 751 exhibitors from 19 countries, this year’s edition grew 10% from the previous year’s expo. Exhibition for overseas exhibitors grew 28% this year to 2,200 square meters. During the four days, the show received 41,227 visitors, 10% of whom came from outside of China.

Despite the global economic crisis, the hospitality industry is developing well in China. The success of the expo is reflective of both the level of investment and confidence in China’s hospitality industry. Next year’s edition is expected to grow even more as Hotelex is considered to be the benchmark of the hospitality industry in Asia. “第十八届上海国际酒店用品博览会于2009年3月31日 至4月3日在上海新国际博览中心隆重举行，本届博览会 在展出规模、展商数量、海外展位面积、参观人数、配 套活动等衡量展会是否成功的重要指标上，均创下新 高，成绩骄人。本届博览会展出面积达60,000平方米，拥 有3,029个展位，来自19个国家和地区的751个中外展商联 袂参展，展商数较2008年增长10%。参展的海外品牌数量 达到博览会品牌总数的50%。2,200平方米的海外参展面积 也较2008年增加28%。四天展期共接待观众41,227人，其 中海外观众3,055人，约占总人数的10%。特别值得关注的 是意大利、西班牙是以国家展团的形式亮相，这显示了 海外企业对中国市场的高度关注。 尽管全球经济危机，但是中国酒店与服务产业却在持续 发展。此次博览会的成功举办也反映出全球对于在华投 资酒店与服务产业的信心。“国际酒店用品博览会”一 直被认为是亚洲酒店与服务产业发展的晴雨表，所以本 届参展商和组织者预计明年的博览会各项指标会有更大 增长。

48 coffeet&i

Trade Show Tour

coffeetandi.com 49

Trade Show Tour

SCAA’s 21st Annual Exposition April 15-19, 2009 Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, GA, USA

The Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) held its 21st annual expo at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta, GA, April 15-19, 2009. The event hosted 400 exhibition booths and attracted over 6,000 specialty coffee professionals, producers, retailers, manufacturers, business owners, and C-level executives, from more than 40 countries. This is the largest specialty coffee event in the world. Despite a rocky global economy, the turnout and sales at this year’s expo confirmed that the specialty coffee industry still has a bright future ahead.

For the first time, the expo featured a symposium geared towards high-level executives involved in the specialty coffee industry. The symposium saw more than 280 C-level attendees who discussed several crucial issues pertinent to the specialty coffee industry. “The Symposium was just what the industry needed,” said SCAA president Ric Rhinehart. “We’re proud to have launched this kind of senior-level meeting, where dialogue and debate on critical specialty coffee topics is welcomed and encouraged. Our presenters delivered and our executive attendees were empowered.”

In addition to the symposium and the exposition, the event was home to several competitions, including the Roasters Guild Coffee of the Year Competition, the 10th Annual World Barista Championship, the United States Taster’s Championship, the Roasters Guild Roasters Choice Tasting Competition, and the Best New Product Awards—all of which showcased the coffee industry’s most elite professionals and coffee experts.

由美国特种咖啡协会主办的第21届年度博览会，于2009 年4月15~19日在美国乔治亚州亚特兰大市乔治亚世界会 议中心拉开了帷幕。本届博览会共设置400个展台，吸引 了来自40多个国家的6000多名特种咖啡专业人员、生产 商、零售商、加工业者、咖啡经营者和C级高管人员前来 参观学习，堪称世界级的特种咖啡博览大会。尽管目前 全球经济不景气，但博览会的盛大场面和销售额已充分 证明特种咖啡业仍有一个光明的未来。 博览会中还首次举办了面向特种咖啡业高层管理人员的 研讨会，280名C级高管人员到会并讨论有关特种咖啡业 的若干个重要议题。“研讨会让大家看到了特种咖啡业 的需求”SCCA协会主席Ric Rhinehart说，“我们为能够举 办如此高水平的专业研讨会而感到骄傲。本次研讨会的 口号是：欢迎和鼓励。每位与会者都被授予发扬和壮大 特种咖啡业的权利。 除了举办专题研讨会及展览活动以外，博览会还举行了 一些比赛项目，包括了年度咖啡烘焙比赛、第十届世界 咖啡大师锦标赛、全美品尝师冠军赛、自选咖啡烘焙尝 试比赛、最佳新产品奖。所有这些都展示了咖啡业界的 优秀专业人员和咖啡专家.

50 coffeet&i

Trade Show Tour

Food & Hotel Indonesia 2009 April 15 - 19, 2009 Jakarta International Expo Kemayoran, Jakarta, Indonesia Some 850 participating companies representing 37 coutntries showcased their products, expertise, and services at Food & Hotel Indonesia (FHI), April 15-18, 2009. Despite the current economic climate, Indonesia’s food, hotel, and tourism industry is growing. The show took place on a floor area of 10,578 square meters at the Jakarta International Expo Kemayoran. Over the course of four days, the expo received 18,610 trade and business visitors from Indonesia. National pavilions came from Australia, France, Germany, Italy, Korea, Peru, Taiwan, Turkey, UK, and USA. The 3rd Indonesian Barista Competition 2009, organized by the Indonesian Specialty Coffee Association, attracted 49 of Indonesia’s top baristas to compete.

The Salon Culinaire chefs’ cooking competitions drew 318 young chefs to compete in 18 culinary events, ranging from fruit, vegetable, and ice carving to butter, sculptures, live cooking, and table display competitions.

2009年4月15~18日在印尼雅加达举行 的“印尼食品与酒店产业展”吸引了 来自37个国家近850家企业前来参展。 本届会展为参展商提供了产品展示、 普及专业知识及服务经验交流的平 台。尽管目前世界经济不景气，但此 次展会的举行显示出印尼的食品、酒 店及旅游业仍在持续增长。会展地点 设在雅加达Kemayoran区的雅加达国际 展览中心，展厅面积达10578平方米。 为期四天的展览中，展会不仅接待了 印尼本国18610个贸易和商务访客，更 有来自澳大利亚、法国、德国、意大 利、韩国、秘鲁、台湾、土耳其、英 国和美国的国际访客前来参观。 由印尼特种咖啡协会主办的第三届 印尼咖啡大师锦标赛也同时敲响了战 鼓，赛事吸引了49位印尼顶级咖啡大 师前来参战。除此之外会展还举办了 由318名青年厨师参加的共18个项目 的“沙龙烹饪厨师大赛”，赛事内容 包括水果雕刻、蔬菜雕刻、黄油雕 刻、现场厨艺表演和餐桌装饰等等比 赛活动。

coffeetandi.com 51

Barista Challenge

China Barista Championship 2009 March 31 - April 3, 2009 Shanghai New International Expo Center Shanghai, China The China Barista Championship 2009 (CBC 2009) was staged in conjunction with the 18th edition of Hotelex Shanghai at the Shanghai International Expo Center. In its 7th year, the CBC 2009 attracted 21 baristas, three from each of seven provinces: Shanghai, Ningbo, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Chengdu, Beijing, and Yingkou.

The baristas had to rank among the top three in their regional qualifying competitions, so making it to the CBC was a victory in itself. Because the CBC is the official WBC qualifying competition in China, the winner, Zhou Yungui, is set to go to the WBC 2010 in London next year.

2009年中国咖啡大师锦标赛(简称2009CBC)，随着在上海新 国际博览中心举办的第18届上海国际酒店用品展而拉开了序 幕。本届比赛已经是第七届了吸引了来自七个城市（包括上 海、宁波、广州、深圳、成都、北京和营口）的21名咖啡大 师前来参加，参赛选手只有在各自城市的预赛中取得前三名 的成绩，才有机会进入本届锦标赛，能进入本次锦标赛已是 选手的一大胜利。中国咖啡大师锦标赛是世界咖啡大师锦标 赛在中国的预选赛，，大赛的冠军----周云贵将远赴英国伦 敦参加2010年在那里举行的世界咖啡大师锦标赛。

52 coffeet&i

THE RESULTS

1st Zhou Yungui 2rd Zhang Tiaotiao 3rd Sun Yingying 4th Chen Peng 5th Chen Huiwen 6th Xu Tao

Best Coffee Club, Ningbo Shanghai Sunny Trading Co., Ltd. Karen Coffee, Liaoning Kerry Ingredients Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. Guangzhou Greenery Food & Beverage Franchising Co., Ltd. Sculpting In Time Café Ltd.

Some photos courtesy of Lou Ding-He from the China News Service.

Barista Challenge

Indonesia Barista Competition April 15 -18, 2009 Jakarta International Expo Kemayoran Jakarta, Indonesia

THE RESULTS

1st Agustinus Tassi 2nd Victor Setiawan Susanto 3rd Siti Zuhriyah 4th Agus Aryanto Brahmana 5th Santy Dewi 6th Ari Setiawan

Caswell’s Fine Coffees & Teas Caffe La Tazza Caswell’s Fine Coffees & Teas Caswell’s Fine Coffees & Teas Starbucks Coffee Corner

The Indonesia Barista Competition was held in conjunction with Food Hotel Indonesia at Jakarta International Expo Kemayoran, April 15-18, 2009. Forty-four baristas from around the country came to compete. The competition followed the same format and scoring criteria used at the WBC: four espressos, four cappuccinos, and four signature drinks in fifteen minutes. 印尼咖啡大师锦标赛藉以2009年4月15至18日在印尼雅加达 国际会展中心举行的“印度尼西亚食品与酒店产业展览”期 间隆重开幕。来自全国各地的44名咖啡大师参加了这次比 赛，此次比赛沿袭了世锦赛的比赛规程和评分标准，即15分 钟内完成 四杯意式浓缩、四杯卡布其诺及四杯花式咖啡的制 作。

coffeetandi.com 53

Cafés Around the World

Taikang Road, Tian Zi Fang In 1998 the Taikang Road area began developing into a commercial art center with galleries, studios, craft shops, and fashion boutiques. Thanks to a coalition of artists, historical preservationists, and city officials, the area retains much of the character it had prior to Shanghai’s explosive development. Where there might have been a high-rise luxury condo or shopping complex—and despite the more than 200 cafés, galleries, studios, and restaurants that have opened there—Taikang Road retains the atmosphere of old Shanghai: brick houses, laundry hung from windowsills, shared taps and bathrooms, vegetable vendors, street cobblers, confused chickens.

One side street, Tian Zi Fang, is well known for being home to both the work of several famous Chinese artists, such as Chen Yifei and Er Donggiang, and several coffeehouses. The area is known as Shanghai’s SoHo because it maintains a similar aesthetic to that bourgeois-bohemian community of New York: boutiques, coffeehouses, and art spaces superimposed on regular, working class communities. If you make your way to Shanghai, be sure to spend an afternoon sensing your way through these eclectic side streets.

世界各地的咖啡屋 田子坊，泰康路 1998年，上海的泰康路一带开始改造并逐步发展成为商 业及艺术的中心，以艺术画廊、工作室、工艺品商店及 时尚精品店为主。这些都要归功于当地的艺术家协会、 历史文化保护者以及市政府官员，该地区的变化同时也 体现出上海城市突飞猛进地发展。尽管该地区有豪华公 寓和购物中心，而且入驻有咖啡屋、画廊、工作室以及 餐厅两百多家，但泰康路仍然保留了许多老上海的氛 围：红砖排屋、楼上窗户伸出来的晾衣杆、公用自来 水、公共浴室、蔬菜摊、修鞋摊等等。 在街道的一边——田子坊，这个因艺术家的工作室和咖 啡屋而闻名的地方，得到了很多中国本地著名艺术家的 青睐，像陈逸飞、尔冬强等都把工作室搬到这里，使原 本默默无闻的小弄渐渐吹起了艺术之风。此外，田子坊 还被誉为“上海的苏荷”，因为它保持了一个与“纽约 的无产阶级艺术家社区”类似的美学标准：精品店、咖 啡屋等所有这些艺术空间与工人社区的有序融合。 如果 您有机会来上海，一定不要忘记在日程上安排一个下午 的时间，好好地感受一下这条小弄的魅力。

54 coffeet&i

Baristas Around the World

Daniel Felix, India

Benyapa Naowan, Thailand

Asia’s Best at WCB 2009 Here are some of Asia’s best baristas doing what they love to do at the 2009 World Barista Championship. These baristas represent their respective countries as national barista champions.

Coffee T&I congratulates all the Asian baristas who performed at the WBC on their incredible achievements! 向大家介绍几位在2009年世界级锦标赛上有所作为的亚 洲顶级咖啡大师。这些咖啡大师都是亚洲各国咖啡界的 精英，本刊仅对这些亚洲咖啡大师在世锦赛上取得的骄 人佳绩而表示衷心的祝贺！

Akihiru Okada, Japan

Jin Bao Lin, China

Lee Jong Hoon, Korea

Chia Ming Tsao, Taiwan

Jhi Chaing Ting, Singapore

coffeetandi.com 55

Product News HARIO’S MINIPHON Syphon coffee brewing is very famous in Japan. Hario introduces the Minihon, a small and stylish syphon coffee brewer that makes 1-2 cups of delicious syphon coffee. The Miniphon makes coffee just as good regular-sized syphon brewers. For more information, visit www.harioglass. com.

虹吸咖啡壶组早已风靡日本。最近Hario又推出其新一代产品Miniphon ，小巧玲 珑、且不失时尚的虹吸咖啡壶组，每次可制作1~2杯的美味咖啡。Miniphon完全 可与普通的虹吸式咖啡壶组媲美。欲了解更多信息，请访问 www.harioglass.com

N&W’S ROTARY The Rotary works with paper pods or capsules and boasts an innovative system for automatic release. Thanks to a motorized revolving support, exhausted pods or capsules are immediately discharged at the end of the drink delivery process. The new Rotary is available with a manual or automatic dosing system, with the possibility of dose programming and electronic temperature control. The top area works as a cup warmer. Contact Jeff Zhang at jeff.zhang@nwglobalvending.com for more information, or visit www.nwglobalvending.com

Rotary可与咖啡饼及咖啡胶囊共同使用，这都要归功于其最新的技术研发。此 外，还具备自动排渣功能。目前有手动及自动两种水量调节系统，并可通过水 量编排调节水量和电子温度控制。置杯区的高度亦可根据杯子的不同尺寸进行 调节，机器的顶部也可用作暖杯器。Rotary可提供不同口味的咖啡来满足不同客 户的需求。

CORNELIUS’ VIPER IMI Cornelius is the world’s leading supplier of beverage dispensing solutions with cuttingedge knowledge. Viper – the FCB (Frozen Carbonated Beverage) machine, which is developed

by IMI Cornelius USA in 2008, can serve multi-flavor products. Each barrel can be adjusted individually for carbonation and overrun specification. The Intelligent Defrost system reduces defrost frequency, increases uptime to maximize sales with high output to satisfy peak demands.

Contact Tarcy Ding at tarcy.ding@cornelius.com.cn for more information, or visit www. cornelius.com.cn

康富是世界领先的饮料分装设备商，提供集饮料系统整套解决方案。Viper雪泥 机是IMI Cornelius美国工厂最新研发的一款制作多种口味冻饮的饮料设备，每缸 饮品独立碳化冷却，膨化率最高可达150%，利润高；设有智能除霜系统，减少 除霜频率，增加工作时间，满足售点高峰时期的需求；另有灯箱宣传面板，强 化广告效应

FINUM ICED TEA CONTROL For a healthy alternative on hot days, try the new Finum Iced Tea Control. It’s easy, it’s eye catching, and you will not even have to remove the filter. Simply twist the lid clockwise when the tea is strong enough, and the brewing process will stop. Now you can make fresh tea anywhere without the dripping or waiting; just enjoy nearly two liters of delicious, ready-to-drink iced tea! Contact Ms. Deisy Barbosa at barbosa@finum.com for more information, or visit www.finum.com

在炎热的天气中，您拥有了保持清新、健康的又一选择：请尝试新的芬伦冰 茶“泡茶控制器”，操作简单，超具吸引力，绝对会让您爱不释手！可以在任 何适当的时间停止泡茶。只需转动茶壶盖，就可以控制茶的浓度和味道。现在 您可以随时随地泡出地道的好茶,快来享受冰茶吧！(近2公升超大容量)

56 coffeet&i

Product News

MÖVENPICK LAUNCHES NEW PACKAGE OF COFFEE IN HONG KONG Swiss Brand “Mövenpick” has long been famous for providing premium-quality, fine foods to consumers. Gourmet coffee is one of their flagship products. With the growing coffee culture in Asia, more people would like to have a cup of nice coffee at home. They are more selective in choosing high-quality ground coffee and coffee beans to enjoy ‘unique moments of sensational leisure.’ The new Mövenpick coffee had its first introduction at HOFEX Hong Kong 2009. The new box contains background information telling the story of each blend to coffee lovers. The new package will be introduced to supermarket chain stores in Hong Kong soon!

Contact hiangkie@hiangkie.com.hk for more information, or visit www.hiangkie.com.hk

“Mövenpick”在香港推出新包装的咖啡 瑞士品牌Möve n p i c k 以其优质的服务和卓越的品质早就赢得了消费者的芳 心。Mövenpick旗下的“精美”咖啡一直被视为其旗舰产品之一。随着咖啡文化 在亚洲地区的蓬勃发展，越来越多的人希望即使在自家中也能享受到一杯地道 的咖啡。可以任意购买质优的研磨机和咖啡豆，也使您可以随时随地享受咖啡 为您带来的休闲时刻。新的Mövenpick咖啡已在2009香港酒店食品博览会上亮 相，每个新款的包装盒都记载着咖啡爱好者感兴趣的故事。新款包装即将在香 港连锁超市推出！

EVERPURE’S MRSͳ600 HE REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM The MRS-600 HE (High Efficiency) Reverse Osmosis System is the highest efficiency RO system available today. This groundbreaking RO system dramatically reduces water waste and consumes less energy, while providing the highest quality, premium water available, leading to reduced costs and increased efficiency. Plus, due to its sleek, compact design, the MRS-600 HE takes up limited space, which is crucial to those operations without room to spare.

Contact Ms. Tracy Bao, Bao.Tracy@pentair.com for more info, or visit www.everpure.com

美国爱惠浦反渗透系统净水机咖啡机 日前，爱惠浦宣布其新型MRS-600 HE净水机咖啡机问世，此机型配备了超高效 反渗透系统，這一突破性的配置，极大的降低了水的浪费和能源的消耗，同时 为咖啡提供了更高品质的水源，从而为您减少成本、提高效率。此外，小巧玲 珑的外观设计，也让MRS-600 HE为您节省足够的空间，非常适合于那些操作间 狭小的咖啡屋。

TAYLOR Cͳ713 AND FLAVOR BURST FBͳ80 The Taylor Company and Flavor Burst Company are partners in innovation and recently demoed at the Shanghai Hotelex Exhibition. The Taylor Crown Series C-713 and Flavor Burst FB-80 machinery are a winning combination whereby a flavor strip is automatically applied around the ice cream as it is dispensed. The result is a tasty, eye-catching ice cream cone. The FB-80 can hold eight flavors. A real crowd pleaser! Contact Robert Delach at robert.delach@ carrier.utc.com for more info, or visit www.taylorchina.cn

Taylor公司和Flavor Burst公司一直是研发创新的合作伙伴，最近他们在上海酒 店用品展览会中展示了其最新研发的The Taylor Crown Series C-713和Flavor Burst FB-80两款冰淇淋机。这两种机器可以有效地配合在一起工作，并且在制作冰淇 淋的同时自动分配的糖浆彩带环绕着冰淇淋的边缘，使冰淇淋既好吃又美观。 此机可制作出多达8种不同的冰淇淋口味，这对冰淇淋发烧友来说确实是一大喜 讯。

DAVINCI’S PINEAPPLE GOURMET SYRUP Welcome the middle of 2009 with the new pineapple DaVinci Gourmet syrup, created especially for Asian consumers. Besides the fabulous taste, it also gives you an attractive yellow drink!

Suitable for all hot, cold, blended, and soda beverages. For more information, or visit www. davincigourmet.com.au

达芬奇凤梨糖浆 恭贺达芬奇2009年中推出的新品---达芬奇凤梨糖浆。此口味糖浆完全是为亚洲 消费者而研制的，除了口感佳以外，糖浆的黄色也超具诱惑力！本品可适用于 苏打水及所有冷、热、混合饮品。欲知更多信息可登陆www.davincigourmet.com.au。

coffeetandi.com 57

Hotelex ’09 Shanghai

What’s FHI ’09 Indonesia

HOFEX ’09 HongKong

ThaiFex ’09 Thailand

FHT ’09 Thailand

FHA ’08 Singapore

News?

SCAJ ’08 Japan

coffee, tea & ice cream magazine A bi-monthly magazine serving the coffee society in Asia

SCAA’09 Atlanta USA

DaVinci Gourmet The Key to Popular Drinks

www.davincigourmet.com.au

Contact : Kerry Asia Pacific (Singapore) Tel: +65 62703833 Kerry China (Shanghai) Tel: +86 21 54265370 Email: kerry@kerry.com