Rogaland county offers everything one would expect to find in Norway. It has high mountains and deep fjords, broad agricultural fields and large forests, impressive waterfalls and quiet lakes, beautiful beaches and steep cliffs. But the county has a lot more to offer. A wide array of Rogaland sites is presented in this book. Rogaland is the country of Norway in miniature.
9 788282 333085 ISBN 9788282333085 ART. NR. 333085
D ISCOVE R ROGA LA N D
DISCOVER ROGALAND Norway in a nutshell
DISCOVER ROGALAND Norway in a nutshell
DISCOVER Rogaland
DISCOVER Rogaland
Norway in a nutshell
John SirevĂĽg / Nils J. Tollefsen / Barbara K. Mang
A journey through 26 municipalities in Rogaland county
2016
Š Commentum Forlag 2016 COMMENTUM FORLAG AS Gamleveien 87 4315 SANDNES www.commentum.no ISBN: 9788282333085 Design: Hana Costelloe Photos: Nils J. Tollefsen and John Sirevüg Text: Barbara K. Mang Translation: Ingvill Christina Goveia All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, stored in a database and / or published in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Content Norway in miniature................................................................................. 6 I) DALANE 1. Bjerkreim.............................................................................................. 8 2. Eigersund............................................................................................12 3. Lund...................................................................................................16 4. Sokndal.............................................................................................. 20 II) STAVANGER 5. Stavanger........................................................................................... 26 6. Sandnes............................................................................................. 32 7. Sola................................................................................................... 36 8. Randaberg......................................................................................... 40 9. Hå...................................................................................................... 44 10. Klepp................................................................................................. 48 11. Time.................................................................................................. 52 12. Gjesdal.............................................................................................. 56 III) HAUGALANDET 13. Bokn.................................................................................................. 62 14. Haugesund....................................................................................... 66 15. Karmøy.............................................................................................. 70 16. Tysvær................................................................................................ 74 17. Utsira................................................................................................ 78 18. Vindafjord......................................................................................... 82 IV) RYFYLKE 19. Finnøy.............................................................................................. 88 20. Forsand............................................................................................ 92 21. Hjelmeland....................................................................................... 96 22. Kvitsøy............................................................................................100 23. Rennesøy........................................................................................104 24. Sauda..............................................................................................108 25. Strand............................................................................................. 112 26. Suldal.............................................................................................. 116
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Rogaland county is like Norway in miniature
I
f you want to know how a county really is perceived, it usually is a good idea to ask someone who are not born in the county about their opinion. A few years ago I asked former Councilman in Stavanger and County Governor of Rogaland, Konrad B. Knutsen from Bergen, if he could tell me how he perceived the county. Knudsen (who, at the time, was also a State Mediator) immediately affirmed that Rogaland is like Norway in miniature. He elaborated his point of view with the following words: “The wide villages are first and foremost to be found in the well known seven mile long plains of Jæren. In the eastern, innermost parts of Ryfylke the mountains of Norway are piling up, intersected by deep fjords. At the mountains’ feet, by the waters and lakes, green spots are evidence of farming and gardening. Outside the coastline is a myriad of islands and reefs. The scenery is charming and shifting – rich of opportunities and challenges – and populated by humans with a mentality and character you just have to love”, Knudsen said, as he was pointing out the historical development of the county: “When the first settlers came to Rogaland about nine or ten thousand years ago, it is assumed that they came from the delta areas around the rivers
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Rhine and Elbe. At the time these river mouths were near the area we today call “the Ekofisk field”. This field later represented the beginning of a new era in the county: The Oil Age.” In 1943 newspaper editor Vegard Sletten published a comprehensive historical book entitled Fram stig Rogaland. In the book he gives a broad overview – still convincingly accurate – of the county’s development through history. Vegard Sletten highlights a statement many people still agree with today: “Seen from Oslo, Rogaland has probably always been a hidden corner of the country. However, the distance to every corner of the world is nowhere shorter and easier than from here ...” Both Vegard Sletten’s and Konrad B. Knudsen’s observations of the location and position Rogaland has had in the country have stood the test of time. Rogaland county definitely is a miniature version of Norway. This book about the municipalities in the county is a timely confirmation that the statement still applies. Engwall Pahr-Iversen journalist
I/ DALANE
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INHABITANTS: 2,857 • AREA: 651 km2 • ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE: Vikeså OFFICIAL LANGUAGE FORM FORM: Norwegian Nynorsk
1. Bjerkreim
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jerkreim is an inland municipality centrally located in the southeast of Rogaland, and has relatively few inhabitants. Bjerkreim is located approximately 50 kilometers south of Stavanger, and the European highway E39 runs through the municipality. Stavanger Airport Sola is a 40-minute drive away. Bjerkreim is an agricultural municipality. The farms are first and foremost sheep farms. Services and the industrial sector are also important. The nature in the area is abundant and varied, and one of the best salmon rivers in the country runs through the municipality. The municipal coat of arms is a birch twig on a green base. This motive was cosen to fit the name “Bjerkr-heim", which means "home of the birch”. The coat of arms was chosen in March 1985 and was granted the same year. Gloppedalsura scree Gloppedalsura scree consists of avalanche boulders that are piled up on top of an end moraine. The moraine arose approximately 10,000 years ago, when the glacier in the area of Gloppedalen
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melted. An enormous end moraine dammed up the river Hunnedalselva’s course toward Veen and Vikeså, and a lake was formed in Byrkjedalsgryta. The terraces in Byrkjedal, 240 meters above sea level, are evidence of this moraine-dammed lake. As a result of frost swelling and melting processes enormous amounts of boulders and rocks suddenly came tumbling down the southern mountainside. When the avalanche stopped, the masses formed a 100-meter thick wall on top of the end moraine and formed the scree Gloppedalsura. Today Gloppedalsura is a popular tourist attraction, and you can also see war memorials in the area. (regionstavanger.com) M/K Ørsdølen M/K Ørsdølen has been operating the 17 kilometers long lake Ørsdalsvannet. Until 1983, this was the last ferry operating a lake in Norway. The farmers in the valley bought the first ferry in 1900, and the second one in 1923. The present boat arrived in 1964. When the road to Ørsdalen was built, the ferry line was closed down. Today the boat club in
Ørsdølen (Photo: John Sirevåg)
Ørsdølen is in charge of carrying tourists across lake Ørsdalsvannet, and you can go on a guided tour of the lake every Sunday from early July until the end of August. The lake tours include guiding and a visit to the farm Dyrskog, which is still operating today, despite the fact that there is no road to the farm. The lake tours start from Odlandstø and end in Ørsdalen. The ferry has a planned mid-tour stop at Lauperak resort, where you can have a nice barbeque meal. M/K Ørsdalen is also available for rent for various events.
Other attractions: The UN park in Vikeså: By highway E39 you will find a beautiful small park where a monument has been erected in commemoration of the fallen UN soldiers who were born in Rogaland. The lake Vikesåvatnet surrounds the area and frames the park beautifully. The monument was erected in 1944 by former Rogaland UN Veterans Union, now called Norwegian Veterans Union for International Operations, department Rogaland. Kløgetvedttunet farmyard: An old farm from the 18th and 19th centuries. The farm is located a 15-minute drive from highway E39. You can follow the signs and exit to Ognedal or drive directly from Bjerkreim. On the farm you will find a farmhouse, a stone barn, − 9
Kløgetvedttunet (Photo: John Sirevåg)
a stable and a smithy. Here you can also see Bjerkreim’s first ballot box and the first telephone exchange that was in use in the Dalane area. The farm also contains a collection of old shoes, skis, hunting tools and clothes that were in use at the time, as well as an exciting book collection. The farm is open every weekday during summer. (visitnorway.com) Magma Geopark: Offers exciting activities. (magmageopark.com) Culture: The cookhouse in Vikeså: A farm cookhouse with a wood-fired oven and a mill. The millstone house and the grain dryer are among the oldest buildings 10 −
on the farm Vikeså. On the farm they serve everything from homemade pizza from the wood-fired oven to exclusive lamb rib meals. The farm is available for rent for social events. (eldhuset-vikesaa.com) Bjerkreim Church: Wooden long church built in 1935. The altarpiece is from the 17th century. The altarpiece was restored both for the 100th and 150th anniversaries. The church has seating capacity for 410 people. (bjerkreimkyrkja.no) For more information, please visit bjerkreim.kommune.no
Gloppedalsura scree (Photo: John Sirevåg)
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INHABITANTS: 14,916 • AREA: 432 km2 • ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE: Egersund OFFICIAL LANGUAGE FORM: Norwegian Bokmål
2. Eigersund
T
he municipality of Eigersund, and Egersund, the friendly town of wooden houses, are located between the sea and the moorlands in the region of Dalane. Both Sørlandet Railway and highway E39 runs through the municipality. Stavanger city and Stavanger Airport Sola are only an hour away by train, bus or car. The most important industry of Egersund is fishing. Measured by quantity brought ashore, Egersund is the largest fishing port in Norway. Approximately 15,000 people live in Eigersund. During weekends and holidays cottage owners also make for a pleasant increase in the population. Egersund harbour is sheltered by the island Eigerøy. The mooring area is stretching approximately 4,500 meters, and the berths range in size from 6 to 9 meters. The centrally located guest harbour is popular and offers everything a boat owner would need. The municipality has varied offers and an exciting history. The fact that the locals have quite a few nicknames on their homeplace – “The Southern City in Western Norway”, “Okka By” (which means
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something like “our city”), “The Summer City” and “Christmas Town” – is evidence of the love they have for the place they live in. Whichever name works, you are welcome to read more about this pearl in the southwestern part of Norway! Eigerøy Lighthouse The Lighthouse of Eigerøy was built in 1853–54. Its height of 46,5 meters above sea level and 134 steps to the top makes it an exciting destination. The lighthouse was depopulated and automated in 1989. Many seafarers have probably appreciated the Lighthouse of Eigerøy, right there at the tip of the stormy southwestern coast of Norway. The location of the lighthouse, with the North Sea as its closest neighbour, probably makes it the most important lighthouse in the southern part of coastal Norway. Today not only seafarers enjoy the lighthouse. Its location makes it a popular recreational destination. Here you can feel the pulse of the North Sea with its occasionally powerful waves rumbling towards the shore. Sometimes a nice summer breeze is ca-
ressing the archipelago, allowing you to enjoy the warm sea breeze while you are watching summer visitors sailing by on their way to the south or to the north. To get to the Lighthouse of Eigerøy you have to park your car in the area called Nautasundet and follow a two kilometers long path through the beautiful cultural landscape. The lighthouse area and the buildings are protected under the Cultural Heritage Act, and The Norwegian Ornithological Society has a bird station on the island. The area is also excellent for diving, where the kelp forests extend down to 30 meters. (fyr.no) The coastal culture collection: Feylingsbua With its location down by the sea and the street Strandgaten in Egersund, Feylingsbua represents a
part of Egersund’s history as an important trading and fishing centre far back in time. The buildings were erected in 1879 and include a boat house and a dwelling unit. The boat house has three floors with a workshop, a woodshed, a storage room, a barn and a pit latrine. The dwelling unit, which is facing the street Strandgaten, includes a basement, two full floors and a furnished attic. In 1991, the foundation Egersund Coastal Society was established. The aim of the foundation is to protect and preserve the coastal heritage of Eigersund by protecting vessels, buildings and facilities that are unique for the district. In 1996, Egersund Coastal Society initiated the procurement of this unique property and the buildings. The Feylingsbua Foundation owns and operates the buildings. Today the Eigerøy Lighthouse (Photo: John Sirevåg)
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Egersund (Photo: John Sirevåg)
buildings are used for festivities, exhibitions and cultural events. Feylingsbua was officially opened during the jamboree of The Norwegian Coastal Federation in Egersund in 1999. Other attractions: Egersund Church: Ludvig Caspersen Feyling (1745– 1818) was a professional carpenter. After living in Bergen and Stavanger, he settled in Egersund in the middle of the 18th century. In 1785, he was given the responsibility of a thorough reconstruction of the church in Egersund. The original church was built in 1623. Since then, it has been undergoing extensive enlargements and reconstructions, and has become the second largest church in 14 −
Rogaland county, counting 1,090 seats. The year 1583 is carved into the baptismal font, but it is uncertain whether it was made that year or not. Either way, it is probably the oldest object in the church. The altarpiece dates back to 1607 and was painted by the German painter Peter Reimers. (eigersund.kirken.no) Eigøy Battery: Far back in time, Egersund was an important trading and fishing centre. To defend the city, its resources and inhabitants, a fortification was built by the seaward entrance to Egersund in the early 17th century. The location of the fortress is not coincidental; at the time it was controlling vessels from both north and south. The cannons and the gunpowder house have been restored and are
Feylingsbua (Photo: John Sirevåg)
in good condition. On the waterfront just beneath the fortification, an aluminium sculpture called “Linda” is welcoming seafarers when they arrive Eigersund. The sculpture was made by the sculptor Hanny T. Konntinen. The Mysinghåla cave: At Mysingheia in Helleland, about an hour walk from the car park, you will find one of Aakregjengen’s hideouts. Aakregjengen was a division of the resistance group Vestige IV from Linge’s Company. Sergeant Alf Aakre was the leader of the group, which had its hideout in the caves in Mysingheia for about a year. 14 saboteurs were abiding in the caves in 1944–45. Acts of both espionage and sabotage were carried out from Mysinghåla. One of the caves was equipped with a window, an oven, a bed and a table. This cave is still intact today. The caves were never discovered by the Germans. Not far from the caves in Mysing
you can find remnants of one of the planes that crashed during «Operation Freshman», the Norwegian heavy water sabotage in Vemork in Rjukan in 1942. (dalanefolke.museum.no) Magma Geopark: Offers exciting activities. (magmageopark.com) Culture: Egersund Folk Song Festival: An annual festival with well-known, high-quality musicians and thousands of visitors in July. (egersundvisefestival.no) The Okka Festival: Festival for children and youth with a range of exciting activities; sports, cultural activities, outdoor activities, shows and concerts. (okkafestival.no) For more information, please visit eigersund.kommune.no − 15
INHABITANTS: 3,247 • AREA: 408.51 km2 • ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE: Moi OFFICIAL LANGUAGE FORM: Norwegian Bokmål/Nynorsk
3. Lund
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he municipality of Lund was established in 1987. With only 3,247 inhabitants it is a small municipality. Lund is located between Stavanger and Kristiansand. The administrative centre is Moi. Within easy reach via Tananger or Kristiansand you’ll find ferries operating between Norway and Denmark. Highway E39 and Sørlandet railway runs through the municipality of Lund. The coat of arms shows three acorns, symbolizing the three most important areas in Lund: Hovsherad, Ualand/Heskestad and Moi. The coat of arms was designed by Svein Arild Berntsen in 1983. The municipality of Lund is well known for its beautiful scenery. Between fertile valleys and rocky mountains are countless inland waters with plenty of trout, and marked walking trails in the beautiful landscape. Maps that show fishing resorts and tourist attractions are for sale. There is also a rental store where you can rent canoes, kayaks, lavvos, camping stoves, tents and more. Magma Geopark is located in Lund. This is a geographically defined area with unique geology and exciting hiking experiences. The municipality is also
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known for Tronåsen – the winding road that was part of Rally Monte Carlo in 1931. In Lund you find Norway’s largest manufacturer of windows – NorDan. Traditional Norwegian clogs come from the clog factory Eik Treskofabrikk, and not to mention bells from the bell factory Moen Bjøllefabrikk. Also worth mentioning is the woodware factory Medby Trevare, which is producing the renowned Moi chair, and the door factory Nor Door A/S. An earth station of one of the world’s leading satellite communication companies is located in Eik in the municipality of Lund. Agriculture is also important, especially in Ualand and Hovsherad.
Gursli Molybdenum Mines When drilling had been undertaken to test for presence of molybdenum in 1914, the extraction of molybdenum started in 1915. Gursli Molybdenum Mines was the largest enterprise in the municipality of Lund at the time. At the most, the work force in the mines consisted of 120 men. The workers came from all over the country, and even Swedish and Finnish navvies found their way to Lund. The
Hovsvatnet (Photo: John Sirevåg)
work force also consisted of local men who contributed a great deal to the establishment of the mines and the infrastructure. Work on the roads, maintenance and transportation were also performed by local workers. The mines were accessed by use of horse carriages along a winding road up the hill. To be able to pull the heavy load, each carriage was pulled by as many as six to eight large brewery horses. The road continued along lake Gullvannet. Along the road and in the mining area you can still see remains of the mining operations. The mines are now closed, but guided tours are available upon request. The mining operations ended in 1919.
Kvernfossen Power Station At Skulevold, about 400 meters north of Moi, is Kvernfossen. The old Moi power station is located here, nearby the old mill, which was probably built in the 18th century. The power station – the first of
its kind in Moi – supplied the farm Moi, the church and other buildings in the area with electricity. The power station continued operating until around 1980, when it was replaced by the new power station. The mill and the millstone are from the early part of the 20th century. Four millhouses were located on the west side, and one on the east side. The millstone was in operation until after the war. Under the occupation during World War II, the grains were milled at night to keep deliveries going. The furnishing and equipments in the mill are probably from the 18th century. (lundmuseum.no) Other attractions: The smallholding Haien: In the area around Lund Church, called Lund Farmstead (Lund Bygdetun), right by the lake Lundevatnet, you find the smallholding Haien, which is part of the Lund Village Museum. The house is built in traditional Dalane − 17
Smallholding Haien (Photo: John Sirevåg)
style with an entrance hall, a kitchen in the middle, a living room in one end and chambers in the other end. Spinning wheels and barrels were produced in the workshop in Nordskoden. The smallholding belonged to the vicarage. During World War II, the German occupation forces had a prisoner-of-war camp here. Many of the prisoners were Russians. They were assigned to live in the old horse stable belonging to the church. Today, the settlement Haien is part of the museum’s cultural events, exhibitions and other relevant activities. A cafeteria is open for some weekends during the summer season. (lundmuseum.no) Lund Church: Lund Church was originally built in 1808 and has been gradually renewed. It is a wooden longchurch with seating capacity for 421 people. The church was consecrated on the 13th of September 1912. During the church construction period, the population in Lund municipality increased. The original church had seating for as many as 396 people, which was equivalent to 1/3 of the population 18 −
in Lund. In the beginning, the pews in the church were assigned to every household in Lund, as well as for the sheriff’s and the vicar’s families. In 1880, the seating arrangements came to an end. (lundmuseum.no) Tronåsen: The main throughfare of western Norway, completed in the 1840's, started at the market square Stortorvet in Oslo (at the time called Christiania) and ran all the way along the southern coast of Norway to Stavanger. The most detailed information we have is about the road section from the western and eastern Agder counties to Rogaland county. Back then, the road ran over Tronåsen hill in the municality of Lund. This part of the road is still intact, but is only accessible in the summer, and only in one direction, from Moi to Sira. It’s quite an adventure to drive this road and experience how people were able to make their way with the means of transportation they had at the time. With our modern vehicles it is easy to climb up the hill and over the moors. In 1931, the road was part of
Lund Church (Photo: John Sirevåg)
Rally Monte Carlo. Every five years a mini rally over Tronåsen for veteran vehicles is arranged. This is a major event in Lund, with plenty of old vehicles and spectators. (naturtriangelet.no) Magma Geopark: Offers exciting outdoor activities. (magmageopark.com)
Culture: Lund Village Museum and Culture Bank: The museum contains several collections showing the history of the village. Numerous collections show artifacts from handicrafts, industry, schooling, farming and plenty more. (lundmuseum.no) For more information, please visit lund.kommune.no − 19