Itasca State Park & La Salle Lake State Recreation Area | Where Do Your License Fee Dollars Go | Biking Cuyuna
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Contents
In This Issue
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OFFICE 6 From the Office by Erin Hintz
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BIRDS Hawk Ridge Duluth, Minnesota
by Judd Brink
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OFFICE Explore Cuyuna
A Mountain Bike Paradise
by Rebecca Haarstad
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CRAFTSMEN A Craftsman for the Ages Perham Man Creates Custom, Handmade Fur Products by Patrice Peterson
DOGS 34 Breeding Excellence Thunderstruck Retrievers
by Alicia Underlee Nelson
PHEASANTS 46 Rousting Ringnecks
A Minnesota Pheasant Adventure
by Richard Massey
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Minnesota DNR Your Hunting & Fishing License Dollars at Work by Kristi Coughlon DNR Northwest Region Public Information Officer
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FEATURED STATE PARK La Salle Lake Recreation Area and Itasca State Park The Oldest and Newest Companions by Kristi Coughlon DNR Northwest Region Public Information Officer
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Volume 3, Issue 1 • FALL 2019
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BUSINESS OFFICE 118 South Vine Fergus Falls, MN
PUBLISHED BY Compass Media
Publisher Kip Johnson
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EDITORS Brent and Jennifer Rogness
Sales manager John Burns
ART DIRECTOR Kip Johnson
Sales staff
46 For advertising rates and information, contact artwork@lakeandhomemagazine.com. Subscriptions available upon request.
Jerry Shea jerry@lakeandhomemagazine.com 218.205.7454 Erin Hintz erin@lakeandhomemagazine.com 218.205.2120 Rebecca Haarstad rebecca@lakeandhomemagazine.com 262-994-8744
MAILING ADDRESS Lake & Home Outdoors 118 South Vine Fergus Falls, MN 56537 artwork@lakeandhomemagazine.com
Fall is here, and as much as spring triggers a feeling of renewal, fall can often have an equal impact on our mindsets. After the hustle and bustle of a busy summer, fall brings a reminder to slow down, to appreciate the fleeting fall colors, the harvest, a quiet sunrise from a duck blind or a sunset from a deer stand. Our family becomes more intentional with how we spend our time together, planning weekend trips to pumpkin patches or state parks to enjoy what we believe to be the best outdoor season of the year. This issue reflects all that the season has to offer, when we get outside, slow down, and appreciate it. With the fall season right around the corner, you’ll find an article on pheasant hunting and an article on how permit fees help wildlife. We’re also featuring Thunderstruck Retrievers, who specializes in raising, competing, and breeding award winning golden retrievers (or your hunting companion). 6
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You don’t have to be a hunter to enjoy the fall season. Check out the articles showcasing the Cuyuna Bike Trail and Itasca State Park for outdoor recreation that your whole family can enjoy.
While fall is a reminder to slow down, I’m often left wishing that fall itself would learn to slow down. This season is wonderful, but also fleeting, so get out there and enjoy it!
And for every outdoorsman, of any age, check out the article on Wildlife Minnesota, a company out of Perham who makes natural, handcrafted fur products for men, women and children.
Erin Hintz
Marketing Consultant Lake & Home Outdoors
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OUTDOORS BIRDS
written by
Judd Brink
Owner and guide of MN Backyard Birds in Brainerd For more information please visit birdmn.com or contact Judd Brink by email at info@birdminnesota.com
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n an October day, a cool northwest wind comes off the ridge and a silhouette comes into view… a redtailed hawk. Hawk Ridge Nature Reserve is located along Skyline Drive in Duluth with panoramic views of Lake Superior. Hawk Ridge is also an IBA (Important Bird Area) and one of the best hawk-watching sites in the country. During the early 1900s, hawks were used for target practice; many were innocently killed here simply for fun. After nearly 50 years of illegal shooting that took place within the city limits of Duluth, these actions were halted in 1951 as the first hawk watch was organized. Daily counts started in 1972 with the operation of a banding station. Today the banding station now leads the nation in total number of birds captured and banded. The first naturalist program was started in 1974 following a friends group of Hawk Ridge to support its education programs and research. What attracts nearly 100,000 raptors to Duluth’s Hawk Ridge each fall?
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Duluth’s topography is dominated by steep hills that climb up from Lake Superior with an average of over 1,000 feet of elevation. Lake Superior and the surrounding area play a major role in creating this migration corridor (Sawtooth Mountains) known as Hawk Ridge.
As the migration continues south from Canada and points northward, the great size of Lake Superior funnels the birds to the ridgeline in great numbers. Migrating raptors use thermals of warm air for “lift” and avoid the cold waters of the great lakes.
The North Shore geology is ancient and complex with formations caused by fire and ice. Duluth lies atop a mid-continent rift which erupted with molten basalt. This basalt flow was 10 miles deep and over time sunk when cooled to form what is now
the Lake Superior basin. During the last ice age a number of glaciers carved and scoured the basin creating the present day shoreline. The glacial ice then receded and melted, filling the basin and creating what we now know as Lake Superior. The lake remains one of the coldest and deepest lakes in the world! The weather in Duluth can change very fast and without warning. The size of Lake Superior greatly influences the local weather. A good flight day is when the wind comes from the northwest, providing a tailwind for the migrating birds. All other wind directions are generally poor with little or no activity. A day with a northwest wind can produce several hundred to several thousand birds in a matter of hours. The best times to view the birds are between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., depending upon the weather of course.
Since 1972, Hawk Ridge has successfully captured and banded 23 species of raptors totaling 93,625 individuals. The banding station operates from mid-August through late November with an average of 3,000 raptors each fall. The banding station is staffed 24 hours a day to capture both diurnal (day) raptors such as hawks and eagles and nocturnal (night) raptors such as owls. Very little was known about owl migration until Hawk Ridge banded 1,402 saw-whet owls in 1995. Banding data helps us to understand population trends, migration seasons and ecology as well as providing educational resources.
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Why do birds migrate? Migration is the movement to find a food source. For birds, their migration might be due to seasonal change or food source availability. Most of the raptors that are moving southward are long-distance migrants with some spending the winter in Central and South America. With years of banding data and newer GPS devices we know how far our raptors are traveling. Birds have very interesting migration patterns, with some birds having reverse paths during the spring and fall. The spring migration is very scattered and extends over a longer period of time in contrast with the fall migration that is much more predictable and concentrated.
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During the early-morning hours, the sun starts to warm the ridge and the heat rises to create thermals of warm air. The migrating raptors use these thermals and updrafts to help them glide and soar above Hawk Ridge. Larger birds such as eagles and vultures take full advantage using their large wings to “ride” the wind effortlessly. The peak raptor migration starts in mid-September with broad-winged, sharp-shinned and Cooper’s hawks. Later in the fall, October through November, the larger birds such as eagles, goshawks and roughlegged hawks can be seen. During the peak season, several thousand birds can be seen in a single day with broad-wing hawks being the most abundant in the sky. For example, the record daily high for broad-winged hawks is 101,716 on September 15, 2003.
A large group of soaring raptors is known as a “kettle” and can contain hundreds to thousands of birds.
Several Hawk Ridge staff (counters/banders) start their annual duties in August and finish in December. Hawk Ridge naturalists and volunteers are available daily between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. from September 1 through October 31 to help you with the identification and education of migrating birds. On your first trip, take advantage of their experience and knowledge so you can enjoy this wonderful and amazing opportunity. The volunteers also bring down newly-banded birds from the banding station for their adopt-a-raptor program and for schools and the public.
Hawk Ridge is about a two-and-a-half hour drive from the Brainerd Lakes area and is the best fall raptor watching site in Minnesota. The view of Lake Superior atop Hawk Ridge during the peak migration and fall color season is definitely worth a road trip. A few things to take with you are a good pair of binoculars, warm clothing, rain/wind gear, a folding chair and food. One of the most important things to do when planning a trip is to check the weather because it is more extreme atop Hawk Ridge and northwest winds are best for viewing the birds. Hawk Ridge held its annual ‘Hawk Weekend Festival’ September 20-22 of 2019. This year’s festival included events, programs, birding classes, banding and of course hawk watching. The festival is an excellent opportunity to learn more about migrating raptors and get tips from the experts on how to identify them in flight.
For more information about Hawk Ridge visit Hawkridge.org. Happy birding!
OUTDOORS
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OUTDOORS BIKING
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C
uyuna is a biking mecca nestled in the hills of central Minnesota. In what was a mining area, now is reborn as a mountain biking gem to enthusiasts flocking from all over the country. The Cuyuna lakes area is being touted by outdoor enthusiasts across the nation. Crosby is another feather in Minnesota tourism’s hat, a state that is already known as one of the nation’s best summer vacations. A former mining town, Crosby has been reborn through uniting, rallying, and coming together around the theme of biking. There are 27.5 miles of mountain biking trails in the Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area, one of Minnesota’s newest recreation areas. The trails cover 800 acres. There are plans in the next few years to expand the trails to 75 miles. The goal is for a rider to ride the trails for three days, without riding the same trail.
The Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area includes 5,000 acres of clear lakes and trails among the beautiful foliage grown up around abandoned mine pits. The park includes 33 campsites, 18 electric, 15 non-electric, one group camp on the shores of Portsmouth Mine Lake, and three yurts on Yawkey Mine Lake. The yurts are open year round.
There are a wide variety of trails from beginner to novice to expert riders. The Minnesota DNR offers a mountain bike skills course for youth and adults wanting to learn more about mountain biking on a closed course near the Miner’s Mountain Road and Rally Center. For more information on this course, the following link gives more details. www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/ican/mountain_bike.html
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The Cuyuna Lakes Mountain Bike Crew maintain trails and report conditions on Trailforks, an online trail database. www.cuyunalakesmtb.com/trails.html
Vehicle permits can be purchased at the Minnesota DNR in the Ironton office at 307 3rd Street in Ironton, Minn., online, or at any of the six self-service kiosks available in the following locations: Yawkey Unit parking lot, Portsmouth Campground, Portsmouth Boat Access, Miner’s Mountain Rally Center, Sagamore Boat Access, and the Mahnomen Unit West entrance off County Road 128. You can still bike in and bike out of the park without a vehicle permit. The Minnesota DNR provides GeoPDF maps of the Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area that you can load onto your mobile device. files.dnr.state.mn.us/maps/state_parks/sra00302.pdf
Cuyuna Lakes State Trail runs on the south side of Huntington Mine lake for 7 miles from Highway 31 Cuyuna Road in Crosby to County Road 128 in Riverton, Minn. It is a paved trail. It winds along the shores of six natural lakes and 15 constructed lakes, that were formerly mine pits. The lakes combined have a shoreline of 25 miles. When completed, the Cuyuna Lakes State Trail will run for 30 miles from Aitkin to Baxter, Minn. The trail will also connect to the Paul Bunyan State Trail. While biking the Cuyuna Lakes State Trail, you will pass the Happy Otter Wood Fired Pizza, serving trailside to riders on weekends in Riverton, Minn. There is a parking lot down from the food stand. There is great fall riding in Cuyuna. Get out on the trails and enjoy the views from some of the overlooks on the Cuyuna trails. Miner’s Mountain Rally Center, just north of Ironton, is a good place to start. From the Rally Center, you can hike to Miner’s Mountain Overlook for spectacular views of the Cuyuna landscape. For a great view on the trails, go west over the channel between Pennington Mine and Mahnomen Lakes.
The overlook at Miner’s Mountain is the tallest point in the Cuyuna Lakes Recreation Area. There is a road leading to the top, making it one of the most accessible overlooks in the area. You overlook Huntington Mine Lake in the foreground. This is a great spot for watching sunrises and sunsets. Heading out on the trails, you can expect to have some great experiences on the trails in Cuyuna. The Sand Hog Trail is an exhilarating trail. It won an International Mountain Bicycling Association’s Flow Country Trail Award. Only four trails in the world have received this designation. Sand Hog Trail offers wonderful overlooks on the uphill climb. The Drag Line Trail, located on Portsmouth Mine Lake, meanders through the Portsmouth Campground and swimming beach before taking you up one of the tallest hills in the recreation area. The Portsmouth Mine Lake is 395 feet deep. The mine lake waters have almost 40 feet of visibility making them one of the best places for scuba diving and snorkeling in the Midwest. The Minnesota Diving School in Brainerd has scuba equipment rental and offers scuba diving excursions to the Cuyuna Mine Pits. Contact the Minnesota School of Diving in Brainerd, Minn., located at 712 Washington St, 218-829-5953 for more information.
Twenty-five miles of undeveloped shoreline can be explored by boat, kayak, or canoe. Fishing in the area will find a crop of trout, bass, sunfish, walleyes, and northerns. Alstead Mine Lake, which is 140 feet deep, has a wide variety of fish, making it a great lake to observe the marine life. Several of the mine lakes offer excellent launching facilities. Cuyuna has a great mountain biking event coming up this fall, the Teravail Oremageddon Bike Race on October 12, 2019. Teravail Oremageddon has three different races and rides on October 12, 2019 in Ironton, Minn., at the Cuyuna Country Recreation Area. There is a 50 miler, 25 miler, and 12 miler, depending on how much of a challenge you want to tackle in one day. The event is located at the Miner’s Mountain Rally Center. The park also has groomed fat tire bike trails in the winter. Riders will be able to test their fat bike skills this winter at the 45NRTH Whiteout, a Great Lakes Fat Bike Series Race, held on the Cuyuna Lakes Mountain Bike Trails on February 8, 2020.
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About 40 miles of multi-use trails are available for fat biking, with 20 miles of trails groomed specifically for a great fat biking experience. A few murals have popped up around town reflecting the biking industry and the transition from a mining town to a recreation destination. Construction is expected to wrap up later this summer on a multi-use trail tunnel under Highway 6 in Crosby, making it easier for biking enthusiasts to maneuver around the city.
reasonable rate of 25 dollars weeknights and 31 dollars on the weekends. They also have great descriptions of their tent sites, if you are a tent camper, so you can pick out the site that is just right for you.
There are many lodging opportunities in and around Crosby. Red Rider Resort, designed for bikers, has eight beautifully designed cabins for bikers. If you wanted to lodge in a cabin with some luxury, but the fun of a tree house, Red Rider Resort and Campground is your location. Some of the cabins offer a cable walk bridge, which makes your stay extra fun. All cabins come with a fire ring, grill, picnic table, and bike storage. They have weeknight specials at their campground, so have some fun on the trails during the week, if your schedule allows. Red Rider Resort also offers a campground for 20’ to 28’ campers with a
Crosby Lofts is located in a beautifully restored 120-year-old brick building on the corner of Main Street. They are conveniently located above Rafferty’s Wood Fired Pizza. You can lodge, dine, and bike from one location.
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From True North Basecamp’s lakefront cabins, you get a front seat view to the beauty of Cuyuna. True North offers some beautiful tent camping experiences that are a great lodging choice for getting out on the trails.
Red Raven Bike Cafe, a combination bike shop and eatery, offers bike rental and service. Red Raven rents mountain bikes and fat tire bikes. They offer some great sandwiches, so you can get your bike and be out on the trails in no time. They have an extensive list of services for your bike should you need service while you are in the Cuyuna area. They can help
you with a new bike chain or a tune-up on your bike. They have bike mechanics ready to help you get back on the trail. Cycle Path & Paddle in Crosby can help you with your paddling excursions in the Cuyuna Lakes area. Cycle Path & Paddle can set you up with a kayak, canoe, paddleboard, or bike for your outdoor adventure. Prairie Bay’s Iron Range Eatery is a farmto-table restaurant in Crobsy, specializing in artisan pizzas to organic greens in a fun, easy-going atmosphere. They have a fresh juice menu. They also like to feature local foods of the Cuyuna Iron Range area. With options like a brisket quesadilla, organic greens, and Philly cheesesteak soup, you should be fueled up for a day out on the trails.
OUTDOORS
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OUTDOORS
CRAFTSMEN
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W
ildlife Minnesota is a small business tucked into a storefront between Gene’s Sport Shop and The Brew bar/restaurant on Main Street in Perham. This low-key furrier shop serves as a reminder of what remains of a once-booming industry.
when he lived in Alaska during the 60s, and brought that knowledge back to Minnesota. He eventually sold the business and went into excavating.” By the early 2000s, Osterday became interested in the fur business after Peter Paul Furs changed hands a few times.
In a world where most everything is mass produced, Brian Osterday’s fur products are all handmade and customized. He established Wildlife Minnesota in 2006 after a series of events introduced him to a trade that seemed to be dying.
“The owner at that time, Pam, was ready to retire,” he says. “She taught me a few things, and I was hooked immediately. I love a challenge, and I went into it ‘full steam ahead.’”
“Peter Paul Furs had once been a thriving business here in Perham,” he explains. “The owner, Peter Paul Ziolkowski, was a true furrier. He learned the art of making mukluks
Shelley Gilkey, who hunts, fishes and traps in Montana, discovered Wildlife Minnesota when she was searching for someone who could create a specialty item from the fur of the
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What are Mukluks?
The term mukluk is often used as a description for a soft boot made of animal fur/skin. It was originally worn by Arctic aboriginal people, and spread across parts of Alaska.
first three coyotes she trapped. She sent specific measurements to Osterday, and he made her a pair of mukluks. He is well known in the industry as the only furrier in the lower 48 states to still make fur mukluks (see Sidebar to the right). He starts by creating an entire pattern for each foot. Since preventing water from going inside is crucial, he puts adjustable straps from the back that tie around the mukluk to keep the boot fastened to the lower leg. Another adjustable strap is added on the top to keep snow from going down inside. The lines must all be equal, and when done sewing, the boots have to be turned inside out. The last thing he puts on is a thick rubber sole on the bottom. Most Alaskanstyle mukluks only have leather bottoms, but Minnesota winters can vary from dry to wet pretty quickly, and that’s where the rubber sole truly shines.
They are very lightweight, extremely warm, and allow air exchange for breathability, an important factor in extremely cold conditions where any perspiration or moisture can cause frostbite. The traditional Alaskan mukluks typically only have leather bottoms/soles because of the lack of access to rubber and the dryer snow conditions in that region. In the wetter, slushier conditions of Minnesota and the surrounding areas, a hard rubber sole is added to the leather bottom for a practical improvement on mukluks.
“I was astounded at the beauty of his craftsmanship,” says Gilkey. “Not only was he a pleasure to work with, but it’s not often you can find someone with exceptional skills, great business ethic, and timely service on a custom item.” An extra surprise for Gilkey was the can koozie, made of fur, that was included in her order. “He told me he made it from the leftover fur fragments because he doesn’t like to waste any fur,” she says. “It was a unique and unexpected item that gave me an additional keepsake from my endeavors.” A true craftsman can be hard to find, and other remnants of bygone days are evident when walking into Wildlife Minnesota. Order forms are hand written, with the yellow copy
attached to each project. In the past, Osterday completed all his paperwork at a desk in the store, but now he finishes that at home on Sundays. It’s important for his business that people are happy with their purchase, and they don’t “push” their products on anyone. “We try to let the things we make sell themselves,” he says. “We may stock up on items like fur slippers, headbands or earmuffs for Christmas, but most of what we do is custom made.”
The Fur Industry
Once known for its Hollywood image, the fading fur industry had a negative reputation, but Osterday claims it is now making a slight comeback for all the right reasons.
“We try to let the things we make sell themselves. We may stock up on items like fur slippers, headbands or earmuffs for Christmas, but most of what we do is custom made.” Brian Osterday
“The original explorers used boots, mitts and hats, all made of fur, with the intended purpose to protect your skin and extremities from frostbite,” he explains. “Fur repels water, blocks wind, and the hide is a key ingredient because it regulates the heat, a function you can’t replicate with faux fur. In a cold climate and below zero temperatures, it’s more of a survival format. I always carry a fur hat and fur mitts for emergency situations.” While that faux fur may be adequate for the current fashion industry, Osterday says that real fur is a natural product that has a breathability factor, is warmer, more insulating, and probably “better for the environment” as far as eventually breaking down and decomposing. In addition, he says that a segment of the new generation is becoming interested in the old trades to a certain extent because of TV shows like “Mountain Man,” which are raising awareness of a throwback kind of lifestyle.
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Background
Raised in Duvall, Wash., Osterday’s lifestyle included an interest in fishing, the outdoors, and anything to do with art. “I learned from my mom as I watched her sewing, quilting, and embroidering,” he says, “and I took every art class, especially the drawing and creating, which set me up for the patterns I now need to create in this business. You can’t just go out and buy a pattern for a fur vest or fur gloves.” He and his wife moved to Minnesota to raise their family here, and he worked for Lund Boats for several years before he found his true calling. Besides purchasing Peter Paul Furs, he gradually bought equipment from a few other regional furriers that were going out of business.
“I have 22 sewing machines, and 17 of them are specifically fur sewing machines, These older machines work best because they were designed for furs.” Brian Osterday
Sewing Machines
Necessary tools of the trade include cutting tools and grommets, but what stands out in this business are the sewing machines, which he collects, cherishes and uses for sewing his custom fur items. “I have 22 sewing machines, and 17 of them are specifically fur sewing machines,” he explains. “These older machines work best because they were designed for furs.” Fur trading was one of the earliest and most important industries in the development of North America, and sewing machines were an intricate element of that development since the first one was invented in 1895. Unlike the typical Singer model that most people
are familiar with, they sew sideways, going up and down, with one needle and no bobbin – creating more of an overlock stitch. “Most of the ones I own were manufactured prior to the 1960s, and unlike the newer plastic ones, they are all metal, weighing up to 34 pounds,” he says with a measure of respect. “I have to repair my own, but there’s not much to repair. I keep them oiled, and they could last forever.” Each of these sewing machines has its own history, a source of pride for Osterday, whose interest and knowledge has expanded and caught the attention of others. FALL 2019 Lake & Home Outdoors 29
“People will contact me about these sewing machines, and I recently purchased one in Fergus Falls,” he says. “One woman got in touch with me after she saw my business featured on the news. Her mother had held onto this machine right up until she passed away, and I’m so grateful to have it now. The gears wouldn’t turn at first, but I oiled it, and it’s a great machine that really sews well.” As a self-proclaimed “collector of anything to do with the furrier trade,” he is always on the lookout for machines, history and background. “I’m still trying to find a sign that says, ‘Store your fur coats here,’” he says with a laugh. “Back in the 1920s and 30s, before people had air conditioning, there were a number of places that were in the business of cold storage.”
“In the past, the trades were passed down through generations. My son Ashton knows the craft quite well, having worked alongside me for the past several years, and his 3-year-old son is already showing an interest in all things outdoors.” Brian Osterday 30 Lake & Home Outdoors FALL 2019
More than Mukluks
Besides the mukluks, the custom end of his business includes a number of different hats. He is particularly proud of the Davy Crockett hat he made for the original singer of the “Davy Crockett” song made famous by the Kentucky Headhunters back in the 1960s. “Fred Young’s original hat was falling apart, and I made him a new one,” he says. “He’s wearing that hat on the cover of the new album they released in 2015!”
As far as hats go, using the entire head of an animal wouldn’t be popular with everyone, but Osterday’s deluxe mountain man hats rate high with followers of sports teams, such as the Wisconsin Badgers or Chicago Bears. And for the past 10 years, he has worn one of his deluxe mountain man hats to the Eelpout Festival, held every February in Walker, Minn. “It takes place at the coldest time of the year, and there are up to 15,000 people there, so as the guy who walks around with a grizzly bear hat, I’m becoming part of the Eelpout Festival in my own way.”
What’s Next?
Looking to the future, Osterday feels that it’s very important to keep this trade going. That’s what keeps HIM going. “In the past, the trades were passed down through generations,” he says. “My son Ashton knows the craft quite well, having worked alongside me for the past several years, and his 3-year-old son is already showing an interest in all things outdoors.”
“I can’t imagine NOT doing this, and I wouldn’t stop unless I had to. I think my entire life was preparing for this and I just didn’t know it.” Brian Osterday
Ashton’s intent is to carry on his father’s trade and learn more about making mukluks and blankets so that he can someday pass that knowledge along to his son. “I hope he will become just as passionate about this business as his grandfather.” For now, Brian Osterday will continue to sew and continue to create high-quality fur products for his customers at Wildlife Minnesota. “I can’t imagine NOT doing this, and I wouldn’t stop unless I had to,” he adds. “Sometimes I wonder if I was born in the wrong generation, but as I look back at how things lined up, I think my entire life was preparing for this and I just didn’t know it.”
OUTDOORS
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OUTDOORS
DOG BREEDER
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B
enita and Todd Otterness’ property is heaven for hunting dogs. Rolling hills and picturesque ponds dot the 120-acre property in rural Lowry, Minn., a few minutes southwest of Alexandria. The landscape has everything the pair’s golden retrievers need to thrive and improve their hunting skills.
The real-world environment makes the dogs stronger hunters and gives them an edge in the competitions that have been a part of the Otterness’s’ lives since 2010. Todd got his first golden retriever in 1979, after seeing how much his uncle Tom enjoyed his. It was a choice that set one of the passions of his life in motion.
That’s not an accident. “We actually developed all the land for dog training,” explains Benita. “We can simulate real hunting conditions,” adds Todd. Every inch of the property contains new challenges to master, new stimuli to explore.
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“It was that simple,” he says. “And then I started training and hunting.” He bred the dogs for several years before he and Benita married in 1985. Benita caught his passion for training when a golden named Forman joined the family in 2009. Todd was (and still is) enthusiastic about the breed’s unique attributes.
“They’re a good water dog. Back when they were first created in Europe in the 1800s, there were several traits put together specifically for hunting purposes— talent, trainability, endurance, toughness,” he says. “We try to find the best traits we can and improve on them.” As the three Otterness children, Amanda, Jacob and Levi, joined the family, Todd and Benita’s participation in training events ebbed and flowed. But as the kids moved away to start their adult lives, their parents decided to take their passion for the breed to a new level. “We’ve had Thunderstruck Retrievers since 2012,” says Benita. “After our kids were through high school, we decided this was what we were going to do for the rest of our lives.”
Benita and Todd have traveled to competitions all over the country. They both compete in field trials and hunt tests and have judged field trials as well. To a person outside the world of competitive dog training, the two events might look similar. Both events showcase an animal’s focus, athleticism and discipline, and emphasize the partnership between the dog and trainer. But to the highest echelon of dog trainers, they couldn’t be more different. Each event has its own thrills and challenges, which increase as dogs advance through different levels of competition. “A field trial is a competition where you are competing against other dogs and handlers for first, second, third and fourth,” explains
Hunt tests are just what they sound like— tests of hunting skills. Instead of competing for places, hunt tests are pass/fail tests. Some skills, like retrieving birds, are obvious even to non-hunters and people who have never witnessed such a competition. Others are more subtle, like how patiently a dog will hold back and honor another dog’s space while it’s working. “There’s a lot of different types of skills, but basically it all comes down to ‘marks’ and ‘blinds,’” says Benita. “‘Marks’ are when they see a bird fall and mark the bird and retrieve it. And a ‘blind’ is when they don’t know where it’s at. The handler sets them on a line toward the bird. When you whistle, the dog turns around and sits. Using hand signals, you then direct it to the line.”
“We’re both addicted to it. We love training and trialing and testing.”
Benita Otterness
Benita. “There are different levels, anywhere from Derby for dogs age 2 and under, to Open for professional trainers from around the country. Amateurs can compete in those as well.”
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There’s a lot of competition. Up to 100 dogs might compete for just four placement slots. Judges also distribute Judges Awards of Merit (JAMS) for excellence in the competition.
Todd and Benita spent hours studying training techniques and watching live field trials all over the U.S. They trained with professional trainers Tim Springer of Dynamic Retrievers in Marine on St. Croix, Minn., and Dave Rorem of Rorem Retrievers, which operates facilities out of Littlefork, Minn., and Fayetteville, Texas. They worked with their dogs’ unique temperaments, learned to control their own emotions so they wouldn’t distract the dogs during competition and developed and refined their own training styles. They crisscrossed the country competing. “We’re both addicted to it,” says Benita. “We love training and trialing and testing.” “And seeing progress,” adds Todd. Their patience and perseverance paid off. The Thunderstruck Retrievers dogs have competed at every level, from derby (when the pups are under 2 years old), to all-ages qualifying and amateur levels to professional competition at the open level. It’s a highly competitive world and Todd and Benita’s golden retrievers are excelling, even at the very highest tier. Benita and Otter, a particularly athletic and graceful water dog, won the Golden Retriever Club National Specialty Open in 2015. The next year, Todd and Forman, a stellar marker with a memorable presence, took the title.
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“That’s the first time that’s ever been done by a husband/wife team,” says Benita, pride coloring every word. It was just the beginning. Forman became a Master Hunter in 2017, while Otter made it to the National Field Trial Retrievers Championship in 2015, a contest that includes all retrievers, not just goldens. “There’s usually approximately 100 dogs there each year and they’re all labs, mostly,” says Benita. “For a long time, there were not as many goldens in the country. Now they’re breeding more, and they’re up and coming.” Thunderstruck Retrievers was in a perfect position to fulfill the demand for more golden retrievers. All of the dogs Benita and Todd breed are athletic, well-socialized hunting dogs. The majority are also highly decorated, boasting titles and ribbons from competitions or from mothering other excellent hunting dogs. Breeding on a larger scale was the next logical step. 40 Lake & Home Outdoors FALL 2019
“We bought the dogs to run field trials and do hunt tests with,” says Benita. “And our dogs were popular around the country and were doing well and people wanted their offspring.” Four to five litters are born to Thunderstruck Retrievers mothers every year. The litter size varies from three to thirteen. All golden retrievers that grow up on the Otterness property receive the same treatment in their early days. “We send puppies home at seven weeks old, so what we’re trying to do is expose that puppy to as much as we can so it’s a learner,” Benita explains. “We’re going to expose them to something new every day, so they continue to learn and are able to handle new situations. That way they go home and they’ll do anything.”
When they’re tiny, puppies will go through early neurological stimulation. They’re given new sights, sounds and smells to investigate. The puppies learn to follow an object, then chase it and bring it back to their handler. They tackle small obstacles and experience wind and weather. By the time they’re fiveand-a-half-weeks old, they’re swimming and frolicking in the water. This active upbringing has physical and mental benefits for the pups. “What it does is that it teaches the dogs to deal with different types of pressure at a young age so they’re mentally and physically sound,” explains Benita. “It stimulates the central nervous system. It makes them more stable also.” All of the Thunderstruck Retrievers dogs are excellent hunters. Puppies that demonstrate exceptional flexibility, drive and trainability will go on to compete in field trials. Those with the ability to pick up subtle scents could find themselves using their skills for a higher cause.
“We’re going to expose them to something new every day, so they continue to learn and are able to handle new situations. That way they go home and they’ll do anything.”
Benita Otterness
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“They’re excellent for search and rescue, hunting, agility, obedience. They’re bred to have a job to do and if they don’t, they’re not happy.”
Benita Otterness
With focused training, lots of stimulation and love, golden retrievers can excel. Todd and Benita’s passion for the breed has shaped their lives and their livelihood. It’s led to a deep sense of purpose and a thriving business. “We do have quite a few that go on to be search and rescue and cadaver dogs,” says Benita. “At five-and-a-half to six weeks, they can follow a scent trail.” Todd and Benita monitor every step of the puppies’ development. After seven weeks in Minnesota, they’re placed with the appropriate owners. “We don’t have anyone pick puppies,” says Benita. “We place all of them. That way we can match up all the puppies so everyone is happy with the puppies that they get. Because we know our dogs, it’s about which litters would fit the best. There are real subtle differences.”
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Owners are happy to depend on the Otterness’ expertise. Thunderstruck Retrievers puppies have found homes in nearly all 50 states and in Canada, the UK and Hungary. Since Benita and Todd know the animals so well, the dogs’ owners often ask their opinion about training their dogs once they’re in their new homes. Todd says his advice is simple.
Even their land, where so many Thunderstruck Retrievers have learned and grown, now benefits other dogs and trainers. The couple hosts two field trials and one field test on their property every year, through the Vikingland Retriever Club out of Lowry. Last year, hundreds of dogs competed there.
“As far as training goes, start young,” he says. “And just have fun.”
Many of the competitions are sponsored by Eukanuba dog food. Thunderstruck Retrievers is an influencer for the brand.
“All the dogs mature at different ages,” adds Benita. “Training is important, especially obedience. Golden retrievers are really smart. They’re smarter than their owners a lot of the time. And that’s where you get the disobedient dog.”
Benita toured the company’s facilities and met with its nutritionists, learning more about a partnership that may eventually put images of the dogs of Thunderstruck Retrievers on Eukanuba products, with owners’ names and the name of the kennel listed. Former NDSU standout and Philadelphia Eagles
quarterback Carson Wentz is currently helping promote the brand. His puppy Riggs, a Thunderstruck Retrievers dog, may be featured in the future as well. But a golden retriever from Thunderstruck Retrievers doesn’t need to make it onto a dog food bag to be a star. Each animal is bred to be the best and to maximize its own unique abilities, right from day one. “These dogs are bred to be active competition dogs,” says Benita. “They’re excellent for search and rescue, hunting, agility, obedience. They’re bred to have a job to do and if they don’t, they’re not happy. They’re not couch potatoes. They make good pets, but they need a job.”
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OUTDOORS
PHEASANTS
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S
o there we were, successful pheasant hunters lining up for a grip and grin picture with our beautiful birds and worn out dogs. It was a hunt that worked out just the way we planned it. Real pheasant hunters will tell you how rare that is. The best part of the scenario was that my son Will was with us and with him was his beloved Nikon camera. But let’s back up and check out how it was done. The secret, as always, was scouting. Taking the time to find out where the birds are and when is the name of the game now. Times as we know have changed for pheasant hunters in Minnesota. Old timers like me love to look back on the glory days and regale the youngsters with how we could drive a mile out
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of town here in western Minnesota and shoot a limit of birds after work. Yes, those glory days of the soil bank hunts were easy. We didn’t know how lucky we were until we lost it. Then we got it back for a time with CRP fields stretching out before us and the ringnecks making a nice little comeback. It was a taste of the glory days but alas, all too brief. King Corn went to eight bucks a bushel and again my beautiful birds had to go. So we were back to square one. What to do?
For us, the solution was as always, to reduce expectations. To a real pheasant hunter, there’s no thought of quitting. The big red birds are in our blood. We must spend the best part of each fall following our dogs in pursuit of long tails. Many choose to escape hard times on the Minnesota prairies by fleeing to North or South Dakota. I’ve considered it myself, but too many of my memories are wrapped up in the area I’ve hunted for 60 years. Now that I’m retired, I can spend every day afield, and I do. That brings me back to the secret of success in hunting Minnesota pheasants. Scouting lets me find where the birds are, but also where they go and when they go there. In early season, I scout from a tree stand. I often bow hunt from trees that give me a view of brushy draws and marshy bottoms that the farmers have left alone or state lands that border large cornfields.
Rookie pheasant hunters love to get out on opening day and plunge right into heavy cover, only to find few or no roosters there. They are disappointed of course, but they don’t need to be. It’s a matter of timing. Of course there’s nothing in the heavy cover at that time of day, they are in the corn feeding. On opening day of pheasant season last year, my friends and I were duck hunting. We missed all the nonsense that goes on with hunters staking out spots to “beat” the other hunters to the best spots. We missed all the yelling and whistling at dogs and all the fruitless tromping to get a few precious shots at a rooster. Why? Scouting. Two days prior to the opener, I was in my tree stand waiting for a deer to show, and what to my wandering eyes should appear, but a whole flock of pheasants sailing out of the standing corn and into a dry cattail slough on state land. Do I need to tell you where my
friends and I were on opening day? But here’s the kicker. When those birds flew in there was only 15 minutes of legal shooting time left in the day. Here’s the rest of the story: An hour before sundown, as we waited for our time, another group of hunters descended on the cover and with a couple of dogs they combed the cover thoroughly, jumping a couple of hens and a rooster that flushed early and escaped into the standing corn. Then it was our turn. With the other hunters finished with the field, we spread out and waited. Kneeling so as not to alert the birds when they flew in, we were ready. Dogs were fidgety with the wait, but soon they were rewarded for their patience. In a rush, a couple of dozen birds sailed out of the standing corn and lit into our cover.
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Several shots rang out, so I knew the boys and Sue Aagesen had found targets of opportunity. Retrieving commands were being given so I knew roosters were down, but the action was just starting. Sheba, my American Water Spaniel was nose down in cover and her snuffling had changed to a high pitched whine which was her signature alert to me that she was hot on the trail. She was really hot. With an excited yip, the big red bird clawed out and up from that cover. My Benelli Ethos came up as I tracked my target and pulled ahead just enough when I touched off. The big cock bird folded and dropped. Mission accomplished. But the bird was not yet in the bag. At times like these, I keep my focus on the spot where the bird dropped. Shuffling forward through the big bluestem, I caught the flash of another rooster blasting up from cover off to the side of me. I paid no attention now as I neared the place to begin my search. Using an old pheasant hunters’ trick, I dropped my hat at the spot to begin the searching. That way, if Sheba doesn’t come up with the bird and the search has led us off too far, we can start over again.
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The “Vest Pocket Retriever” quickly came up with the bird which was still alive. Sheba does not retrieve pheasants, for some reason, but she holds them down with her paws. Ducks don’t bother her, but for whatever reason she hates the dusty feathers in her mouth. I don’t mind that at all, having seen way too many dogs who are well known for “munching” birds. I picked up my prize and praised my little pal for her good deeds. Then recalling that rooster that almost distracted me, we returned to pick up my hat and resume our hunt. Checking my watch, it looked like we’d have to hurry because DNR sundown was only 15 minutes away. I waved a fellow hunter and his lab over to join us and the dogs began ranging back and forth for scent. If you know anything about pheasants, you know they love to run. That has always been the best course for survival, and this bird was certainly no exception.
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He was out of luck this time though, because we were at the end of his cover. Instead of the dogs trailing in a straight line after him, he began to zig and zag back and forth. I’m sure he well knew where he was and that he had no room to maneuver. Our guns came up and to our surprise, two beautiful roosters came up with a rush of wings and a cackling that always sets my blood boiling. Being old hands at this, Steve Aagesen and I each picked a bird, based on where we stood. His bird went down on the first shot, and mine on the third. He dropped the left bird and I got the right one. Standing there enjoying the glorious prairie sunset, we watched Aagesen's lab Star bring in our birds that had dropped into a plowed bean field. Star is no muncher so I didn’t have to have a foot race with her as I would have with some dogs. I will do that because I hunt to eat and these birds are too good to waste on a hound. Sorry to be so stiff on this, but just as I give due diligence to finding every bird I drop, so too do I advise every owner of a munching dog to use a training collar to correct this behavior. Some owners will worry that shocking their dog when it is gobbling a downed bird might make them quit retrieving. To them I say,
good. That will save me a foot race. It makes no sense to work as hard as we have to in order to harvest this increasingly rare game bird only to feed it to a canine. But these dogs that we hunt with are all veterans of many campaigns with this bunch of pheasant hunters. Each of them have good noses. They are all veteran retrievers. When the shooting starts, the heads come up and the drop is marked in the canine brain. Pheasant hunting would be far different without a dog. Some would say they couldn’t hunt without a dog to watch. It just isn’t the same. It’s all part of the reason we love the fall bird hunts with leaves falling and the corn all down so it’s easy to work the available cover. Dogs flushing big red birds from prairie grass makes the hunt come alive and all the walking you’ve done without a flush is forgotten with the opportunity of being the hero. Remember though that like baseball players, a hunter can go from hero to zero in a heartbeat. So you pull up with your shotgun and take your chance. It’s a game of skill but to play you must pay. You must bust through cover to be there when the dog gets his turn.
It doesn’t get any better than putting a bird in the game bag. So many things have to come together to make that happen. You live and learn in pheasant hunting. Mostly, the dogs will teach us. When the dogs want to go a different way, follow the dogs. Their noses are better than ours. But be aware, you’re tall enough to look ahead and spot things to avoid. Dogs are great but they can get into skunk trouble or worse. If there is a worse. But never be deterred by accidents that may not happen. Just be aware and prepare ahead of time. I carry antibiotic salve for cuts and a Leatherman for fence accidents, etc. I’m sure I’m preaching to the choir here, but some reading this may not have been lucky enough to celebrate fall in the field. They need to know how broad the planning and execution of these hunts really are. A far cry
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from when Pappy used to pick up his gun to go through that “soil bank “ behind the barn. Those halcyon days of pheasant hunting are long gone now, but these days we have mile after mile of state land to walk and even more. I’m talking about the Walk-In Access Program. Through this program, Minnesota pheasant hunters have access to more than 30,000 acres of prime pheasant land in 35 western Minnesota counties. For a mere one to three dollars, you will be allowed to hunt these prime parcels of excellent cover. This opportunity began in 2011 and it is well worth our support. Maps of the available areas are on the DNR website. 54 Lake & Home Outdoors FALL 2019
Now I’ve given you a small taste of what a pheasant hunt is like and I hope you’ll have time to join our ranks this fall. Will has done his best with the Nikon to show you the beauty and action of our sport, but remember that the pheasant season lasts until the new year in Minnesota. And I’ll leave you with one last secret: most pheasant hunters only hunt opening day or weekend. After that, you’ll have way less trouble finding places to hunt. What’s more, the hunting gets better and better the later it is in the season. During the last two weeks, I rarely see other hunters, but I do see lots of pheasants. Pheasants in big bunches. Pheasants running around on fresh snow so you can scout out the best spots a lot easier. If you’re like me you’ll celebrate this grand season not just in the field but at the table as well. And as I enjoyed my feast, I looked forward to the next season of rousting ringnecks.
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OUTDOORS MN DNR
by Kristi Coughlon DNR Northwest Region Public Information Officer
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innesota anglers and hunters are passionate about the outdoors and know that the money they spend on fishing and hunting licenses is used by the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) toward conservation programs and projects on the state’s public lands and waters. Every Minnesotan and visitor to the state benefits from these license fees in the form of healthy fish and wildlife habitat that provides a variety of outdoor recreation opportunities. 56 Lake & Home Outdoors FALL 2019
Fishing and hunting license revenues are the mainstay of traditional fisheries, wildlife and law enforcement work and are critical to sustaining Minnesota’s multi-billion dollar angling, hunting and wildlife viewing economy. One hundred percent of license fee dollars goes toward conservation and restoration efforts that benefit 1.5 million anglers, 600,000 hunters and 500,000 bird and wildlife viewers.
This spruce grouse is being fitted with a transmitter so DNR research scientists and managers can learn more about the distribution, abundance, population trends and management needs of these birds. Spruce grouse live in the birch and coniferous forests in extreme northern Minnesota.
A helicopter places a pine tree in the Straight River near Park Rapids to create brown trout habitat. Cooperative fish habitat improvement efforts among conservation organizations, local landowners and the DNR help create better fish habitat benefitting both the fish population and anglers. DNR waterfowl researchers and managers and Shallow Lakes Program specialists monitor waterfowl breeding populations and collaboratively work together to protect and enhance wildlife habitat on Minnesota’s shallow lakes. Shallow lakes have extensive vegetated areas that are critically important to aquatic furbearers, and to waterfowl and water birds for resting and feeding areas.
Minnesota’s Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) protect wildlife habitat for future generations and provide public access to outdoor recreationalists interested in hunting, trapping and wildlife viewing. Continued management efforts on existing WMA lands and acquisition of new parcels will be critical to maintaining quality wildlife habitat in Minnesota.
State hunting and fishing license purchases also provide matching funds for federal programs such as the Pittman-Robertson Act of 1937, which created an excise tax (paid by manufacturers, producers and importers) on firearms and ammunition sales. These funds support wildlife conservation efforts, hunter education and shooting programs. Allocations are based on a state’s geographic size, the number of licensed hunters and the prerequisite that states pay 25 percent of a project’s cost. The Dingell-Johnson Act of 1950, a “partner” to the Pittman-Robertson Act, created a 10 percent excise tax on sport boating and fishing equipment. These monies match state funds generated through fishing license sales for state fish restoration and management plans and projects. For every 100 dollars Minnesota spends on allowed game and fish expenses, the federal government
reimburses 75 dollars, effectively allowing DNR to spend three times more for fish and wildlife habitat management and maintenance than it could if it only used money directly from license sales. In Minnesota, Pittman-Robertson revenues have been used by the DNR to acquire around 400,000 acres of wildlife habitat (almost one-third of the state’s wildlife management area system), maintain the state’s 1.3-million-acre WMA system through enhancement and management projects; fund shooting ranges throughout the state through grant programs, and support the National Archery in the Schools Program in Minnesota schools. DingellJohnson revenues have been key in DNR efforts to manage and enhance fish habitats, survey fish populations, develop lake and stream management plans and stock fish throughout the state. FALL 2019 Lake & Home Outdoors 57
Who Does the Management? Throughout the state, fisheries and wildlife biologists and research scientists use their expertise to manage fish and wildlife and maintain and enhance habitat. Their work creates some of the nation’s most soughtafter outdoor experiences – fishing or boating on one of Minnesota’s 4,500 fishing lakes, paddling or wading its 16,000 miles of fishable rivers and streams, or hunting and wildlife watching in field or forest at one of Minnesota’s 1,500 Wildlife Management Areas. DNR wildlife managers use prescribed fire as a tool to manage natural areas such as prairie, oak savanna, wetlands and oak woodlands. Many plants bloom in the gaps left by prairie fires, providing nectar for butterflies and other pollinators. Fires are also a key tool in creating open areas essential for prairie chickens and sharp-tailed grouse.
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Wildlife Management Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) are part of Minnesota’s outdoor recreation system. They are the backbone of DNR’s wildlife management efforts. WMAs are established to protect those lands and waters that have a high potential for wildlife production and public recreation opportunities. They range from prairies and forests, to wetlands and shrublands, and provide 1.3 million acres of high-quality, diverse habitat throughout the state. Management activities on WMAs are directed toward protecting and enhancing wildlife habitat to sustain wildlife populations and maintain or increase hunting and viewing opportunities. To accomplish these goals, DNR managers and biologists conduct resource assessments of wildlife habitat on WMAs statewide, as well as restore, conserve, manage and enhance a wide variety of Minnesota habitat. Management activities include an array of techniques depending on the wildlife species inhabiting the areas. Managers plant prairies and grasslands that provide prime
nesting cover critical to waterfowl and pheasant production. They restore and enhance wetlands that benefit waterfowl and other wetland wildlife species, including pheasants that use these areas for winter cover. Prescribed burning is conducted to maintain grasslands, prairies and brushlands important to sharp-tailed grouse and prairie chickens. Forest openings and regeneration projects benefit ruffed grouse, wild turkeys, deer and moose. Wildlife food plots are managed to feed both resident and migratory wildlife. Woody shelterbelts are planted to provide winter cover and nesting sites for upland birds and a variety of nongame species as well. Wildlife managers and researchers also conduct wildlife population surveys to determine abundance and distribution of wildlife species, monitor and control disease outbreaks and provide advice and recommendations to private landowners, conservation groups, government agencies and other land and water management organizations. This lake sturgeon was captured by DNR fisheries biologists conducting a population estimate to monitor this dinosaur-like fish, which almost disappeared from Minnesota in the early 1900s.
Fisheries Management Minnesota’s waters provide some of the most diverse recreational opportunities in the country. On any given day, fisheries managers, biologists, aquatic plant management specialists and shoreland habitat specialists collaborate to provide fisheries management and habitat protection across the state. Fisheries biologists conduct assessments and annual surveys on lakes, rivers and streams to best manage fish species and important habitat that provides quality fishing experiences for anglers to enjoy. They engage in ecological investigations geared toward advancing knowledge of fish ecology and biology. Coordinated efforts with other DNR water resource scientists and professionals provide habitat restoration and enhancement projects, such as dam modification DNR fisheries biologists immerse walleye fry in a solution of oxytetracycline (OTC), which leaves a harmless marker in the fish’s ear bone that can be detected years later under a microscope. This technology enables managers to determine how many walleye in a population originate from stocking versus natural reproduction.
Biologists tag muskies (muskellunge) to learn more about this premier Minnesota native fish species. Fisheries managers and researchers ensure that good science informs DNR fisheries management decisions.
and removal efforts, that create natural fish passages for species such as walleye, catfish, lake sturgeon and endangered fish species. DNR managers also conduct spring egg taking operations and hatch these eggs in 15 fish hatcheries around the state. Hatcheries produce fish that help maintain and enhance fishing opportunities in 4,300 managed lakes and 16,000 miles of fishable streams and rivers throughout Minnesota. DNR’s Aquatic Management Area (AMAs) program administers more than 700 AMAs and 770 shoreland miles throughout the state. AMAs are established to protect, develop and manage lakes, rivers, streams and adjacent wetlands that are critical for fish and other aquatic life, water quality and intrinsic biological value, public fishing or other compatible outdoor recreational uses.
Dedicated Funding Minnesota’s Legislature and sportspeople have funded WMA and AMA land acquisition in a multitude of ways. Hunting license fees, bonding funds, Reinvest in Minnesota funds, including Critical Habitat License Plates, have also been used to buy WMAs and AMAs. Conservation groups donate land and money to support the acquisition of WMA/ AMA lands as well. In 2008, Minnesota voters approved the Clean Water, Land and Legacy Amendment that established dedicated funding for environmental, recreational and cultural purposes. DNR receives funding from four of the five constitutionally-dedicated funds. These include the Environment and Natural Resources Trust Fund (ENRTF) and the following Legacy funds: Outdoor Heritage Fund (OHF),
Clean Water Fund and Parks and Trails Fund. The DNR uses ENRTF dollars to conserve and enhance Minnesota’s natural resources including air, water, fish and wildlife. The Legislative-Citizen Commission on the Minnesota Resources (LCCMR) committee governs this fund and makes funding recommendations to the legislature. The DNR uses OHF dollars to restore, protect and enhance land and water for fish, game and wildlife. The Lessard-Sams Outdoor Heritage Council (LSOHC) governs this fund and makes recommendations to the legislature. For more information on how license dollars are at work, visit mndnr.gov/ licensedollarsatwork.
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OUTDOORS
STATE PARKS
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UPPER LEFT An aerial view of LaSalle Lake from the south. La Salle Lake SRA was established to protect the rare plants, animals and cultural resources found in the forests and wetlands of the areas glacial valley. It surrounds La Salle Lake, which is the deepest inland lake in Minnesota. LOWER LEFT The mighty Mississippi River begins in Itasca State Park. Visitors from around the world enjoy walking across the headwaters of the world’s fourth longest river system by stepping from rock to rock to reach the opposite shore. Visitors can also walk across a log bridge or wade through the shallow water.
A gorgeous sunset on Lake Itasca at Peace Pipe Vista. This favorite scenic overlook offers grand views of the lake and interpretive signs give a glimpse of Itasca’s glacial history.
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midst the towering pines and crystal clear lakes in northwestern Minnesota, sits the oldest and perhaps most beloved of state parks, Itasca State Park. This grand old park was established in 1891 to preserve remnant stands of virgin pine and protect the basin around the mighty Mississippi River headwaters where the river begins its 2,552-mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. It encompasses more than 32,000 acres. The park is home to stands of virgin pine, over 100 lakes, numerous historic landmarks, a wilderness sanctuary (one of Minnesota’s seven National Natural Landmarks) and an incredible diversity of wildlife species.
Itasca State Park is nestled in the northern pine moraine at the leading edge of repeated glacial advances. This terrain is sometimes referred to as “knob and kettle.” The knobs are mounds of debris deposited directly by the ice near the glacier’s edge or by melt-water streams flowing on or under the glacier surface. The kettles are depressions, usually filled with water, formed by stagnant ice masses buried or partially buried under glacial debris. The retreat of these ice masses formed the lakes within the park, including Lake Itasca, which is regarded as the main source of the Mississippi River. Thousands of years ago, Native American hunters pursued wild animals for food in the park’s region and some lived in permanent settlements, using stone, wood and bone to craft their tools. The FALL 2019 Lake & Home Outdoors 61
park is registered as an historic site and is filled with cultural artifacts that tell tales of explorers and Native American history. The name “Itasca” is derived from the Latin words for “truth” and “head.” It was named by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who was led by Ozawindib, an Anishinabe guide, to the headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca. The Jacob V. Brower Visitor Center is named after the historian, anthropologist and land surveyor whose tireless efforts in the late 1800s protected the
and through pristine pines. A stop at the Bison Kill Site, where bison were ambushed at watering sites by Native American hunters, is highly recommended. Many trailheads originate along Wilderness Drive and several connect to the North Country National Scenic Trail, a 4,600-mile long trail that traverses seven states, from New York to North Dakota. The trails offer a variety of hiking experiences to different lakes and wilderness campsites.
The new Lake Itasca amphitheater is situated along the shore of Lake Itasca and seats more than 300 people along its grassy areas and on bench seating. Experience a cool breeze from the lake while enjoying park activities, music, storytelling or a family gathering. The amphitheater will be available to rent hourly beginning in 2020.
pine forests and waters surrounding the Headwaters of the Mississippi River. The 13,000 square-foot Visitor Center is open year-round and is a contemporary version of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) projects of the 1930s. Many of these CCC structures are still in use and can be seen throughout the park. The center is bursting with interpretive displays, exhibits and murals depicting the history of the park.
Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the Old Timers Cabin is a remarkable historic structure. It is located on the ¼ mile Dr. Roberts Boardwalk that meanders through a scenic bog.
There are many ways to enjoy Itasca State Park. For those looking for a leisurely trip through the park, motorists and bicyclists can experience a “remote” journey along the 10-mile paved Wilderness Drive. The drive traverses the west edge of the park from the Headwaters to Douglas Lodge along grassy marshes
Main Park Drive winds along the east side of Lake Itasca to popular sites with incredible views, including Preacher’s Grove and Peace Pipe Vista. The drive ends at Mary Gibbs Mississippi Headwaters Center where a short stroll (900 feet) along the river leads to the Headwaters of the Mississippi River and a spectacular view of Lake Itasca. The Bike Trail or Brower Trail hiking trail traverses the east side of Lake Itasca, meandering through the forest from Douglas Lodge to Preachers Grove, Peace Pipe Vista and the Bear Paw campground.
Gaze up at the virgin pine trees while you enjoy a selfguided walk up the 2-mile Doctor Roberts Trail and learn about the Ojibwe and how they used forests plants. This trail is also excellent for wildflower viewing and photography.
The Historic Douglas Lodge, built in 1905, is a two-story log building with lodging and a full-service restaurant on the first floor. It is located on the south shore of Lake Itasca with easy access to trails.
There are over 45 miles of hiking trails and a 6-mile bike trail exploring the woods, bogs and wildlife in the park. Wilderness Drive adds another 10 miles for bicyclists to enjoy. The Mississippi River Trail Bikeway, Great River Road and Mississippi River State Water Trail all begin at Itasca and travel the river route to the Gulf of Mexico.
Itasca has a variety of summer and fall lodging options, from wilderness camping to group camping or lodging, to rooms at the historic Douglas Lodge or historic cabins. The newly acquired Bert’s Cabins are available for rent and are located along Wilderness Drive near the Headwaters.
In the summer, visitors can rent boats, pontoons, paddle boats, kayaks, paddleboards and canoes from Itasca Sports Rental located on Lake Itasca. The many lakes in the park provide opportunities to float, paddle and fish. There are boat accesses on four lakes and two fishing piers. Those interested in a boat tour of Lake Itasca can enjoy a narrated tour on board the Chester Charles II.
In the winter, skiers, snowshoers and snowmobilers can enjoy easy access to trails. The Jacob V. Brower Visitor Center is open as a warming shelter and offers parking for winter users. Winter lodging is available at the Itasca Suites, Mississippi Headwater Hostel and at campsites in the Pine Ridge Campground. Itasca State Park has a full calendar of events and activities for young and old, including interpretive hikes and programs for kids and adults, music, guided tours, fishing events, candle-lit skiing/snowshoe trips, lantern-lit hikes and seasonal festivals.
Itasca’s companion - La Salle Lake State Recreation Area Established in 2011, La Salle Lake State Recreation Area (SRA) is the newest of Minnesota’s SRAs. La Salle Lake SRA offers 940 acres of remote wilderness experiences, cultural resources and outstanding forest biodiversity. It is a satellite unit of Itasca State Park, which is eight miles southwest. This SRA is one of a kind, offering challenging hiking and gorgeous views of the Mississippi River Valley. The SRA surrounds the pristine LaSalle Lake, which is Minnesota’s deepest inland lake at 213 feet. The lake is 221 acres and encompasses 18,600 feet of shoreline. The lake supports walleye, northern pike, crappie, largemouth bass and bluegill. The land surrounding the lake is recognized for its biodiversity. A portion of LaSalle Creek, which also begins in Itasca State Park, and frontage on the Mississippi lie within the SRA as well.
LaSalle Lake supports a variety of fish species and fishing opportunities. Visitors can wet a line on the accessible ramp while soaking in the incredible view of one of Minnesota’s deepest and most pristine lakes.
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Within the SRA are high quality natural and cultural resources. The northern portion of the SRA has been designated as La Salle Lake Scientific and Natural Area (SNA) recognizing the presence of high quality jack pine woodland, white cedar swamp, and rare plants and animals. Archaeologists have uncovered well-aged evidence of Native American presence at the site. La Salle Lake SRA provides both remote experiences as well as developed areas for camping, picnicking and playing. There are 11.5 miles of trails winding through some of the most pristine parts of the recreation area, ranging from easy to difficult terrain.
The picnic pavilion, nature play area, natural swimming area, fishing pier and boat access are located on the north end of the lake. The campground has 39 drive-in sites complete with water, electric and sewer hookups. There is an accessible shower building with private rooms complete with showers, sinks and flush toilets, as well as a coin operated laundry room. The facility is available from fishing opener through the first Sunday in October. The spacious Black Bear Guesthouse and cozy Lone Wolf cabin, both nestled in the woods near the shore of the lake, are available to rent as well.
A view of the Mississippi River valley on La Salle Lake SNA. This SNA hosts a rich diversity of wildlife and high-quality plant communities. The clear-running LaSalle Creek flows through red pine-white pine forests and white cedar swamp before joining the Mississippi River.
Visitors can enjoy a picnic in the pavilion, complete with electricity, while watching children explore the Nature Play area.
The Black Bear Guesthouse is a spacious, three bedroom cabin with all the comforts of home. It sits above LaSalle Lake near the boat access and fishing pier.
The SRA offers hunting, fishing, boating, kayaking, canoeing, swimming, hiking, snowshoeing and wildlife viewing activities. There are over 11 miles of hiking trails. For hikers feeling adventurous, there is a primitive, rugged, 6.5-mile Challenge Trail that crosses creeks and traverses steep ridges before descending to the lakeshore. For those who want to take a stroll through the SRA, the one-mile River Overlook Trail leads to gorgeous views of the Mississippi River and LaSalle Creek confluence. There are also three miles of hunter walking trails that meander through varied habitats and connect
with the Challenge and Spur trails. Most of La Salle Lake SRA is open to hunting and trapping of protected species during open seasons, except in the vicinity of the campground and cabins. In the winter, visitors can snowshoe anywhere in the SRA. There are snowmobile and ATV trails nearby. For more information on Itasca State Park and La Salle Lake SRA, visit mndnr.gov/state _ parks.
OUTDOORS
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ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR
FLOORING
ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
CONSTRUCTION
LUMBERYARD
INSULATION
RADON TESTING & MITIGATION
MARINE / WATERCRAFT REPAIR
LANDSCAPING