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H STYLISH ACCESSORIES H CHRISTMAS IDEAS H SMOCKING MASTERCLASS e New magazinng from sewi ebbie expert D Shore

ISSUE 5

30

stunning projects

HOMESPUN TEA COSY

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FABRIC TULIPS

CHRISTMAS ANGELS Brought to you by the craft experts

Pretty tote

asy Make this eag appliqué b

MAKE WITH YOUR

FREE STENCIL

!

FREE

STENCIL

Easy as 1, 2, 3!

This beautiful fabric counting book makes a gorgeous gift for a baby and will be treasured forever.

By Trisha Boyd ky ribbon Add a sihle spine to t

12 SKILL LEVEL

YOU WILL NEED

A A A A A A A A

Your free stencil Natural seeded cotton Craft felt Fusible backing (we used Heat n Bond Lite) Fusible wadding Various scraps of cotton fabric for appliqué Heat erasable pen Basic sewing kit

TOOLS

A Sewing machine

HOW TO MAKE Cut the rectangles for the required number of pages – remember that each page has to have a back and a front. Iron each rectangle in half to create the pages. Practise with sheets of paper first so you can work out the layout of your book before you start sewing.

Using an erasable pen, mark the centre of each page with the page number. Using blanket stitch, attach a square of different coloured felt to each page to provide a neat frame for your appliqué shapes. Leave a border at the bottom for the wording.

Iron fusible backing to your chosen cotton fabrics. Using your free stencil on the cotton fabric, draw around and cut out your appliqué shapes before ironing each piece to the felt squares. Appliqué each shape in position using the free-motion embroidery technique and your sewing machine.

To add the wording, use a heat erasable pen and machine-embroider, making sure there’s a piece of fusible stabiliser at the back to eliminate any puckering. You can add further embellishment to the front and back page by adding a spine in a contrasting cotton fabric.

Place the pages right sides together and sew all the way round, leaving a small gap

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to turn the pages through. Clip the corners before turning through to the right side. Press carefully, topstitch all the way around the outside, stitching the gap closed.

Layer up the pages in order. Sew down the centre through all of the layers, then turn and repeat to give it extra strength. Add a decorative ribbon around the centre of the book. Sew this ribbon in place so that it won't slip off when baby plays with it!

TIP Type out the words in a font you like, print them out and then trace over them to achieve neat ‘handwriting’

FREE

STENCIL

!

Fuzzy felt fun Inspire a child's imagination and create pictures and stories on the move with this colourful felt set.

By Lesley Tawton 13 SKILL LEVEL

YOU WILL NEED

A Your free stencil A 45.75x30.5cm (18x12in) of foam stabiliser or fusible fleece

A 45.75x30.5cm (18x12in) of outer fabric

A Larger pieces of blue, dark green and light green felt

A Scraps of felt for the shapes A 5x35.5cm (2x14in) lengths of handle webbing

A 30.5x15.25cm (12x6in) of contrast fabric for the pocket

A 30.5x7.75cm (12x3in) of contrast fabric for the tab

A 15.25x7.75cm (6x3in) of fusible fleece for the tab

A Button A Crafter's Companion Stick & Stay Adhesive for Fabric

A Basic sewing kit TOOLS

A Sewing machine A Fabric clips

HOW TO MAKE To build the landscape, place a strip of blue felt across the top of the foam stabiliser and adhere using Stick & Stay for Fabric. Cut curvy lines in the dark and light green felt to create the hills. Beginning with dark green, stick the felt on top of the sky. Sew in place along the curvy edge using a zigzag or decorative stitch to add texture and interest. Repeat with a piece of the light green felt. Cut out half a tree top and half a tree trunk shape and apply in the same way on one edge of the foam.

To make the pocket, fold over the top long edge twice by 0.5cm (¼in). Press and topstitch.

Fold under the bottom long edge by 0.5cm (¼in) and press. Add any appliqué shapes or lettering on the pocket at this point. I used toadstool shapes and affixed with fabric spray adhesive. Position pocket across one half of right side of outer fabric with opening facing outwards towards the raw edge. Sew in place along the bottom edge of the pocket. Machine tack the sides in place close to raw edge. To personalise the board, appliqué letters on the opposite side to the pocket facing outwards – I used felt letters to spell out ‘PLAY’.

At either end, and on the right side of the outer fabric, machine stitch the handles in

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place 5cm (2in) either side of the centre point.

The handles point inwards and are not twisted.

To make the tab, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of one half of the fabric. Fold the fabric in half with right sides together and sew the two long edges. Turn right sides out and fold in the raw edges 1.25cm (½in). Topstitch all the way around and sew a buttonhole at one end. Alternatively, you could use a hook and loop fastening or a press stud. On the same side as the pocket, position the tab between the handles and sew in place.

Place the inner and outer fabrics right sides together and pin or clip in place, making sure that the handles and tab are tucked out of the way. Sew all the way around the edge leaving a 15-20cm (6-8in) gap for turning.

Cut across the corners and trim the seam allowance as close as possible. Turn right sides out and topstitch all the way around, closing the turning gap. Fold the tab closed, mark the button position and sew it firmly in place.

Using scraps of felt, cut out the shapes from the woodland template. Also make lots of basic shapes in different colours and sizes – we made circles, squares, triangles, rectangles, clouds, flowers, hearts and stars.

Now let storytime begin!

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TOTE

BAG

Everything's rosy Shop in style with this gorgeous little tote bag – it’s just perfect for carrying all those essential bits and bobs. By Debbie Shore

20

On the

cover

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TOTE

bbi e D

e's proje

BAG

!

ct

“A pretty and practical tote bag is a must for a trip to the shops”

SKILL LEVEL

YOU WILL NEED

21

A 1 piece of spotty fabric, 38x60cm (15x23½in)

A 2 pieces of floral fabric, 38x10cm (15x4in)

A 1 piece of seeded cotton, 15cm (6in) square

A Heart appliqué, 9cm (3½in) across

A 80cm (31½in) of 6mm (¼in) wide piping cord

A 80x4cm (31½x1½in) strip of bias cut fabric for the piping A 1 piece of lining fabric, 38x70cm (15x27½in) A For the handles, two pieces of fabric, 10x48cm (4x19in) and fusible fleece cut to the same size A Crafter's Companion Stick & Spray Adhesive for Fabric A Basic sewing kit

TOOLS A Sewing machine A Fabric clips Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout

This stylish tote is the perfect accessory for the savvy shopper.

We’ve used linen-look cotton for both the outside and the lining, but if you’re using a lighter weight fabric you may wish to add stabiliser to make it a little sturdier. We love the red roses and spotty fabric combo with contrasting green trim and handles.

HOW TO MAKE To make the piping, cut the cord and piping fabric in half. Wrap the fabric around the cord so that the long raw edges meet, and sew with the zipper foot on your machine [1].

With the zipper foot still on your machine, sew each piece of piping to the short sides of the spotty fabric, with right sides together [2].

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With right sides together, sew the floral fabric to the top of the bag, sandwiching the piping in between [3].

Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the handle pieces. Fold each long edge to the centre, and then fold in half. The fabric is a bit bulky at this stage so it may be easier to use fabric clips to hold it together [4].

Sew along both long sides [5]. Sew the handles to the top of the bag, facing inwards, 11cm (4½in) from each side [6].

Take the square of seeded cotton and fray the edges by about 1cm (½in). Spray the wrong side of the heart appliqué with fabric adhesive and place in the centre of the square.

Spray the back of the square, place in centre of front of bag, about 2.5cm (1in) from the piping.

Sew around both the square and the heart [7].

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TOTE

BAG

TIP To add a bag base to this mini shopper, cover a piece of mount board in fabric and sit it in the base of the bag

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Sew the top of the lining to the top of the outer bag, you’ll have a large tube. Flatten the tube so that the outer section and lining sit right sides together, and pin. Push the bottom fold of both ends inwards by 4cm (1½in) [8].

Sew along both sides, leaving a gap in one side of the lining for turning. Turn the right side out. This is how the corners of the bag will look [9].

Sew the opening in the lining closed, then push the lining inside the bag. As the lining is cut slightly longer, you’ll have a border around the top of the bag. Neatly top stitch around this seam to finish [10].

Ditsy and polkprints are a gar dots combinat eat ion

‘Lining the handles with fusible fleece makes them more comfortable to carry, for a bag that's practical and pretty’ DEBBIE SHORE, DESIGNER

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PONCHO

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Poncho perfect Just right for the autumn months, make this cosy cover-up in stunning scarlet.

By Ann Charles

27

Us a gre fabr eat ic this drapewith cape for

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!

PONCHO

Ann Charles Ann has been in love with fabric for as long as she can remember. Taught to sew by her grandmother when she was just four years old, she progressed from cross stitch tray mats to cushion covers sewn on the treadle sewing machine. She made her first dress when she was aged just nine and since then she has never looked back!

SKILL LEVEL

28

YOU WILL NEED A 2.10m (83in) of 160cm (63in) wide fabric

A Lining fabric A Matching thread A Basic sewing kit

TOOLS A Sewing machine Use a 1.25cm (½in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated

SIZE To fit UK size 12-18

‘Ponchos are great to wear in the colder months because they’ll keep you warm and looking stylish at the same time!’

ANN CHARLES, DESIGNER

HOW TO MAKE Measure from the neck, over the shoulder and down to the wrist of the person for whom you are making the poncho. This will give the desired length of poncho, ours was 66cm (26in). Add 9cm (3½in) to this measurement to allow for hem, seams and neck opening.

This gave us a measurement of 75cm (29½in).

Fold your fabric in half lengthways with the selvedges together. Fold the fabric in half again, keeping selvedges together so you have four layers. The top two layers should be a little longer than the required length of your poncho – we ended up with a measurement of 75cm (29½in) so we folded down 76cm (30in).

The top two layers will be shorter than the two layers of fabric underneath, leaving excess fabric for the collar. From the folded corner of the fabric, measure the required length down

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the folded edge – ours was 75cm (29½in) – and mark with a pin. Then, approximately every 5cm (2in) and keeping the tape measure on the folded corner, measure your required length and place a pin.

Work across your fabric towards the selvedges, remove the pins and mark with tacking stitches or chalk. You should end up with a quarter circle marked out [1].

For the neck edge, measure 7.75cm (3in) down the length of your fabric on the fold, from the top folded corner and pin. Working around the fabric to form a quarter circle for the neck edge, measure and pin. Mark, and then remove the pins [2]. Cut through all four layers of fabric. If your fabric is very thick, cut the top two layers first following the marked line, then cut the bottom two layers the same length [3].

Open your fabric out, leaving the centre

PONCHO

top folded. From the neck, measure and mark with a pin on the centre front, about 10cm (4in) down. Cut down from the neck edge to the top pin. At this point, make sure your head fits through the opening. If it is too tight extend the front cut a little, but bear in mind the opening will be a little larger when stitched.

With matching thread, stitch around the neck edge and front opening 0.5cm (¼in) from the edge of main fabric, this will prevent the fabric from stretching [4].

For the lining fabric, repeat steps 1-7 but cut the required length 1.25cm (½in) shorter than the fabric, so that the poncho hangs straight when hemmed.

To cut the collar pieces, take the remaining fabric and fold the selvedge up at a 90 degree angle, to make a fold on the bias (at a 45 degree angle) of the fabric. You will need a piece of fabric folded 11.5cm (4½in) deep and 76cm (30in) long. Mark with pins and cut, we had to cut 2 x 39.5cm (15½in) pieces. Do this twice to join together on the short side with a 1.25cm (½in) seam [5].

Lay the fabric flat and place the lining on top with the right sides together. Pin and tack around the bottom hem. Stitch around the bottom of the garment and lining about 1.25cm (½in) from the lower edge, to form a hem. Remove tacking threads and/or pins and trim around the edge with your pinking shears [6].

Carefully turn the garment to the right side through the neck opening. Work the fabric so it sits flat around the hem, ensuring the lining is not seen from the right side of the fabric. Pin and tack, then press in place after removing pins. (Sometimes a larger pin helps to ease fabric seam out straight on the right side.)

As this is a gentle curve, it is not necessary to snip into the seam allowance [7].

For the neck opening, pin and tack the lining to the neck edge and opening wrong sides together, ensuring the fabric and lining are laying flat from the hem [8].

Cut a piece of fabric about 8cm (3in) wide and 2.5cm (1in) longer than the required neck opening, neatening the edges to prevent fraying. With right sides together, place this over the neck opening and stitch in place from the lining side inside the poncho. Stitch down one side of the opening, 0.5cm (¼in) from the edge. Leaving the needle in the fabric, pivot through 90 degrees, stitch 1.25cm (½in) across the bottom of the opening, pivot and stitch up the second side of the opening. Snip into the corners of the stitching at the base

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of the neck opening, being careful not to cut through the stitches [9].

Turn the facing through the opening towards the inside of the poncho. Pin, then tack around the edges to hold in place. Press, then topstitch using a slightly larger stitch [10].

For the collar, join the two collar pieces together down the shortest side with a 1.25cm (½in) seam. Press the seam open. With right sides together, fold collar fabric in half along the long sides matching raw edges. Pin and tack down short edges, then machine stitch 1.25cm (½in) from the edge. Repeat for other short ends. Snip off pointed corners of seams, being careful not to cut stitching [11].

Remove pins and/or tacking, turn right side out and press seams. Find the centre of one long side of the collar piece (centre seam)

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and pin to centre back of neck with right sides together. Working around the neck edge, pin collar to fabric and lining all the way around to front opening. The collar will be about 6.25cm (2½in) longer at each side of neck front opening. Tack and machine stitch 0.5cm (½in) from the neck edge all the way around. Trim the threads, remove tacking and press the seam up into the collar [12].

Turn under 1.25cm (½in) seam allowance to wrong side of fabric on other side of collar.

Pin onto stitch line on neck edge of lining.

This neck edge can be slip stitched in place by hand or machine stitched close to the fold, to include the ends of the collar and the front neck opening of the poncho. The hemline around the bottom of the poncho can also be top stitched in place.

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CHRISTMAS

ANGELS

Choir of angels With their peaceful expressions and customised wings these angels make heavenly decorations for the tree. By Jackie Wicketts

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CHRISTMAS

ANGELS

!

Jackie Wicketts As a girl, Jackie sat on her mum’s knee to operate their beloved Singer machine, making dolls’ clothes from fabric scraps. Having two children of her own meant sewing took a back seat until she was inspired after seeing Debbie on TV. Jackie’s hobby has now become a passion!

SKILL LEVEL

YOU WILL NEED A Fabric A, front of angel, 17.75cm (7in) square

61

A Fabric B, back of angel, 17.75cm (7in) square

A Fabric C, wings, 2 x 20.25cm (8in) squares

A Heat n Bond in the same size as fabric B and one the same size as fabric C A Button, for the head A Small piece of plain fabric to cover button A Small amount of wool, for the hair A Small amount of ribbon or cord to make a hanging loop A Toy filler (optional) A Permanent pens, for features A Basic sewing kit

TOOLS A Sewing machine A Button Factory Kit A Debbie Shore 12" Nesting Circle Templates

A Pinking shears Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout

HOW TO MAKE With pinking shears, cut fabric B in half and, with right sides facing, sew them together.

With the seam in the centre, cut a 15.25cm (6in) circle. Cut a 15.25cm (6in) circle of fabric A and a 15.25cm (6in) circle of Heat n Bond – press together to adhere [1].

With right sides together, sew fabric A to fabric B all around the outside edge. Open up the seam a little on fabric B, turn the right side out and press. Add a little toy stuffing at this stage if you are planning to. Ladder stitch the open seam to close and top stitch all around the outside edge; use a decorative stitch if you like [2].

With fabric B facing upwards, fold down a 2.5cm (1in) segment at the top and catch with a few stitches in the centre to hold in place [3]. With fabric A facing, bring the ends of the segment – that you have just folded together – to the centre and stitch together, this will form the angel’s collar. Add a little decorative button or bead [4].

Using the Button Factory kit, cover a button with plain fabric and draw on facial features of your choice with a permanent pen. Add a little

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carefully-placed blusher to make rosy cheeks for your angels if you like. Using wool in a colour of your choice, cut three or four strands about 12.5cm (5in) long for the hair. Fold the strands in half to find the centre point and stitch to the top of the button to form the angel’s hair [5]. Stitch the angel’s head to the neck area on fabric A just inside the collar, as shown.

For the wings: cut one piece of fabric C in half and, with right sides facing, stitch together and press. Cut out a heart template and place it centrally over the seam on fabric C and mark out a 12.5cm (5in) heart with a heat erasable pen. Adhere Heat n Bond to the second piece of fabric C and cut out another 12.75cm (5in) heart. Using the same technique as step three, and with right sides together, stitch all the way around the outside edge. Open up a few stitches from the stitched centre line and turn the right side out. Again, ladder stitch to close the gap and top stitch all around the outside edge.

Attach the wings to the back of the angel’s body whilst catching a loop of ribbon or cord to make a hanging loop [6].