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FAIR ISLE BUBBLE
KNITWEAR DESIGN
“Fair isle pattern interpretation ” Supervisor: Ildikó Kele Insturctors: Márta Pataki, Andrea Kass Foto: Noel Lászlók Budapest 2019
After researching the traditions, modalities, and colors of the Fair Isle pattern, I decided to change the geometrical shapes of the shapes and counterparts of the pattern.The strict editing, tiny pattern elements, and color variations characteristic of the Fair Isle pattern, which we learned in the first phase of the research, provided the initial inspiration. The pattern is also called, “multiple colour” pattern because of the intricate play of colors, however, a knitted line is limited to two colors. I retained this editing principle within the sample collection. Traditionally, the pattern elements are made by the eye-opening method, however, this technique cannot be applied effectively on two needle-bed flat knitting machines, so I simplified, rotated, and then geometricized the pattern elements.
In the experimental knitted structures, I varied the rhythm, location, size and color of the geometric pattern elements formed by the needle selection method. The five final compositions were selected from structures experimented with different yarn qualities, tightness and knitting-needle changes. The two small patterned structure compositions, the three magnified pairs of contrasts, are a giant pattern created with a new knitting mode, the special feature of which is that the pattern elements exit the strip rhythm in stages and move diagonally. The “transparent pattern” with contrasting needle bed and yarn shifts also carries the richness of color of the Fair Isle pattern in its rhythmically popping spots within the bound eyes.
EXTENDO
KNITWEAR DESIGN
After analyzing the shape, structure and processing methods of the classic ready-made cardigan shapes, I designed a garment called Extendo using zero-waste tailoring method. In the first stage of the experiment, and tested the area ratios of different bonding modes, creating as much change as possible within a flat bonded sheet. For the desired widening, I searched for the perfect ratio of knitting modes, yarn densities, and tightness. The proportionally widening bell shapes were followed by an analysis of the open and closed shapes embracing the body. The closed forms were pre-experiments for the sweater and the open ones for the cardigan.
I achieved the open forms with the widening and expanding held-up knit. For the reinterpreted cardigan, I further developed the “bubble” pattern previously designed on the hand-held knitting machine. The final design is a fully openable garment. The construction, which symbolizes excessive opening and freedom, is the opposite pair of a closed, safety sweater. The opening form can be closed with straps, which also extend from the upper part itself, like endless, re-wrapped arms. Thanks to the asymmetrical circular straps, arms can also fit in these tubes. The tight knitted structure prevents the shape from slipping away on the body.
QR EYE
KNITWEAR DESIGN “The reinterpretation of a knitted pullover ” Supervisor: Ildikó Kele Instructors: Márta Pataki, Andrea Kass Foto: Noel Lászlók Budapest 2019
After analyzing the shape, structure and processing methods of the classic pullover, I decided to reinterpret the formal design of the traditional shape.Moving away from the classic readymade shapes, I created pieces that offered a whole new direction for the limbs. In the first stage of the experiment, I tested the area ratios of different knitting modes, creating the greatest possible change within a flat bonded sheet. I was looking for the perfect ratio of knitting modes, yarn densities and tightness for the desired widening. Proportionally widening bell shapes were followed by analysis of open and closed shapes embracing the body.
The designed shape covers the body and hides the shape of the wearer, referring to its proportions only subtly with the gaps formed for the arms and the head.
The purpose of the shape is to design without tailoring. The non-tailored shape is built around the pocket. The pocket, as a central element, is a separate form made of the sweater’s own material, as well as an integral internal element. The matched pocket expands and then stretches over the shoulders. The pocket between the dress and the body is almost a part of the body. At the pocket, the outside and inside are separated.
One can reach into a pocket that is himself. His hand penetrates from the outside into the inside and turns it over. The pocket is shared by function, offering an option. The inherent things move from the visual world to the tactile world and lose their greatness. The hand remains free. My goal was to design a consciously edited knit garment that creates a sense of security, which carries with it variability, with a gap left free at the back.
