Culinaire #10.10 (April 2022)

ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES APRIL 2022

Mexican Meals | Belgian Beers | Edible Gardening | Brunch | Going Greek

Are we nearly there yet?

NEVER HAD KIDS, SO I’VE BEEN asking myself that question all my life, never more than in the last two years. I’m sure I’m not the only one that just can’t wait for a semblance of life pre-2020; it really is one step forwardtwo steps back, in so many ways, and for so many of our local businesses.

It’s given many of us time to pause for thought, which isn’t always a good thing, and while I consider myself one of the most optimistic and positive people, I’m not feeling that we’ve come very far in 2022.

This letter is my opportunity to thank everyone who has played a part in bringing this issue to fruition, and to tell you what a great issue this is –and it is. Everyone has worked so hard and to tight deadlines, and come up

trumps: our contributors, our editors, our photographers, our designer, our supporters, our advertisers, and our printers, and we wouldn’t be reading this without all of them playing their respective parts to make it happen.

This issue is chock full of the articles that you told us in our recent survey you wanted to read: recipes from local chefs, news of local restaurants and to hear of new openings, wine reviews and recommendations, and the same with spirits and beer. You wanted to learn and be informed about eating and drinking well, and be entertained at the same time, and I couldn’t be prouder to know that we achieved that. I thank those that called me and emailed last week to say ‘thanks’

and let me know that we are valued and appreciated.

But at the same time, I can’t trivialise what’s happening currently. Why I turn off the evening news on television and turn on the radio as you can’t unsee those images, and I’m so deeply saddened. My heart goes out to the innocents whose lives are being torn apart, and I stand in solidarity with you.

Imagine there's no countries

It isn't hard to do

Nothing to kill or die for…

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes

Editor-in-Chief/Publisher

Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca

Managing Editor

Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca

Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca

Sales, Southern Alberta Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca

Sales, Northern Alberta James Jarvis 780-231-7511 james@culinairemagazine.ca

Design

Kendra Design Inc

Contributors

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn, Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Lesli Kowes, Morris Lemire David Nuttall, Leilani Olynik Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Our contributors

Lesli Christianson-

Kellow

Lesli is a freelance writer, expert gardener, and home cook who enjoys creating dishes reminiscent of her travels. She has participated in the Oliver/Osoyoos Half Corked Marathon (18km) twice. Fortunately, the wine was flowing freely both times. Her food, parenting, lifestyle, and travel articles have appeared in the Calgary Herald, Condo-Xtra, WestJet Magazine, and others, in print and online. Instagram @LesliCKellow.

Elizabeth ChorneyBooth Busy freelance writer and broadcaster, Elizabeth writes about food, travel, and many other topics. In addition to contributing to Culinaire, national, and international publications, she is a Globe and Mail bestselling cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio and the Calgary Herald. A lover of food, travel, music, and community, when Elizabeth isn't out searching for something delicious, she’s likely to be found curled up with a good book.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine

For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Leilani Olynik

Sunday morning waffles, smoky cocktails, and smiles; Leilani is happiest kicking back with friends and family and connecting in the kitchen with her two girls. As a Growth Manager at Everbrave Branding Group she strategically helps local businesses reach their full potential and helps to make our province a vibrant, progressive, and inspiring place to call home. Mother. Food lover. Bourbon enthusiast.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

It seems to be a good time for successful eateries to open a second location - a recurring theme in this month’s Salutes & Shout Outs!

Amato Gelato opened their Kensington location nearly 20 years ago, and now a café bar at the base of ‘The Fifth’ apartment building, at 602 17 Avenue SW. Choose from 48 rotating flavours of gelato and sorbetto, as well as pizzas and pastries, coffee and cocktails. 7 days 9am-late.

Cinnaholic has two locations in Edmonton, and round the corner in the same building as Amato, has opened its first in Calgary (there’s three more coming soon!). Choose from 17 frostings and 26 toppings to create your own cinnamon rolls, or other treats to eat in or take away: banana bread, brownies, cookies and cinnadoodles, bite-size baby buns, and the popular chocolate chip cookie dough, all washed down with Phil & Seb coffee. Everything is baked in-house and is 100% vegan, they offer catering too. 7 days 10am-late.

Four Calgary faves have branched out and opened new locations in Edmonton! With a baker’s dozen of cafés in Calgary, Deville Coffee is now serving its small batch, direct trade coffee and baked goods at MacEwan University’s SAMU Building, 10850 104 Avenue N from 7:30am. Closed Sundays.

Flirty Bird Nashville Hot Chicken has five locations in Calgary and Canmore, and now you can get the hottest chicken sando and tenders in Edmonton from 11am, Wednesday to Saturday, at 10455 Whyte Avenue.

Jerusalem Shawarma is growing, and as well as four Calgary locations serving up their ever-popular hummus, falafel, beef and chicken shawarma, and salads, lucky Edmontonians can now find them at 2213 101 Street, every day 11am-10pm.

Good times and good food come together at Home & Away, and now they’re open in Edmonton at 10363 104 Street NW, offering snacks, burgers, bowls, pizzas, tacos, and live sports action for lunch, dinner, and party, with daily food and drink specials from 3-6pm (11-3pm weekends).

Talking of sports bars, Canadian Brewhouse launched in Edmonton twenty years ago, and now has 41 locations –26 of which are in Alberta. Their 5th Calgary bar is at 3953 University Ave NW, with big screen TVs (and tabletop speakers when multiple sports and teams are playing!), and daily specials every night from 4pm: Taco ’bout Tuesdays, Steak and Sangria Saturdays, and Pizza Sundays - lunch specials too, such as Tuesday Poutine Party and Thursday Burger ‘N Beer. 7 days 11am-late, children allowed to 8pm.

If you’d rather eat and be active than eat and watch sports, Simtopia is open at 340 50 Avenue SE in Calgary. A community hub where you can learn to ski or improve your technique, and try out beautiful golf courses with the modern golf simulators, there are coworking spaces too for creatives to rent by the month, and a restaurant serving home-style waffles, burgers, tempura, and lots of chicken dishes, with a kiddies menu too. 7 days 9am-10pm, from 10am weekends.

Food halls have arrived in Alberta, and Robbins Health Learning Centre at MacEwan University is now home to Takam Market (“to crave” in Tagalog) -

a food hall from the good folks at Filistix. As well as their much-loved modern Filipino cuisine, here you’ll find Sosyal Scoops ice cream and milkshake shack from Yelo’d, coffee at The Colombian, and baked treats from Ayco Bakery. As there’s no dining hall for students, ‘The Public’ offers prepared heat-and-eat, quick meals after the concessions close. Monday-Friday 10am-3pm, 10910 104 Avenue NW.

The big guns are out at Calgary’s new Beltline food hall, The District. You’ll be spoiled for choice with these six vendors –including some of the city’s top chefs – so do what we did, and try them all!

Who’s here? First up is Chef Duncan Ly, of Foreign Concept’s Takori, a taqueria melding Mexican dishes with Asian flavours. You’ll love the tacos and burritos, but don’t miss the crispy chicken skin – it’s addictive! Next door is Chef Arce Morales’ new Oishidesu Ramen Shack location, serving soul-satisfying meat and veggie ramen, poke and rice bowls, takoyaki and more. Opposite you’ll find Chef Adam Ryan’s (of The Coup fame) Shrub Bloom, with sustainable, all-Canadian vegan and vegetarian pastas, sandwiches, chowder and salads, as well as smoothies and mocktails - healthy food that tastes great too. Moseying on down the aisle, on the right you’ll see Roy’s Korean Kitchen, Chef Roy Oh’s second location for his Korean comfort food with a Canadian

twist. Oh joy - the Soy Maple Brussels sprouts are here, as well as his KFC crispy fried chicken sandwich, and other plates from his former Anju and 4th Street SW dine-in restaurant. Next door is Modern Steak’s spin-off, Modern Burger, with their drool-worthy Benchmark Angus, ranch-specific Alberta Beef, classic or cheese burgers, wagyu hotdogs, poutine, and more! But be sure to save some room for the outstanding, sustainable seafood or vegan maki sushi and sashimi from Chef Darren MacLean and Chef Duncan Ly’s Greenfish. Open 7 days 11am-8pm, for dining in, take-out, and delivery.

Edmonton has two new pizza spots! Birch & Bear Pizza opens when sister, Toast Culture closes, with a menu of classic and creative West Coast flatbread pizzas –Birch for veggies, and Bear for meat-eaters (all as calzones too!), along with salads, craft beer and sodas. Wednesday-Sunday 4-8pm, 11965 Jasper Avenue.

Bravo Pizza & Kitchen’s menu includes pastas, burgers, salads, and platters, and while their big pizza menu is mostly traditional, we’re rather excited by the more unusual toppings of alfredo chicken, garlic prawns, and bacon and egg, and we have to try the meaty fried olives (with Italian sausage)! 3240 118 Avenue, 7 days 11am-late.

Head chef Mike Hakjin Kim’s first restaurant, Ari Sushi, is open in Inglewood at 1201 9 Avenue SE, and it’s a busy spot. Over the last 18 years, he’s had plenty of practise making really delicious and very

fresh appies (oh how we loved his crispy Ika (squid) Karaage!), sushi, tempura, and udon, working at the 5* JW Marriott Japanese Restaurant in Seoul. Reservations highly recommended for lunch and dinner, Wednesday-Sunday.

The Concorde Group are on a winning streak with Bridgette and Lulu Bars, Major Tom and Lonely Mouth, and now their new success-to-be, Surfy Surfy, a laidback, casual, Southern California-inspired restaurant underneath Double Zero, on the ground floor of Calgary’s Chinook Centre. With an upscale beach shack feel, and a surfboard on the wall, Chef Sandy Voerman (from Bridgette Bar) is killing it with her Asian-Cali fusion dishes. We loved her tempura corn fritters with coconut curry dip, kimchi-seasoned fries, and excellent tacos, not to mention her salads, burgers, burritos, and bowls… Local beers are on tap and Cali beers in cans, and there’s a Margarita menu too. Portions are very generous, but do save room for potato churros with burnt cinnamon ice cream!

tribute to the late Luigi Bontorin and his passion for simple, local ingredients that create a nutritious bread to be shared with family and friends. read the full story at www.cibl.com

¡Que Rica Comida!

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM

In anticipation of cinco de mayo next month, we tapped into the amazing Mexican cuisine Alberta has to offer. Full of flavour and tradition, we soon learned that there is so much more to it than tacos, burritos, and guacamole.

There’s an element of time and care with each dish that is created, some of them taking more than 24 hours to prepare. It’s a complex cuisine, with flavours ranging from spicy or sour to fresh or savoury, but one thing is certain: those who cook it are excited to share it.

Perhaps it’s because of how they learned to cook – with close family sharing recipes and techniques passed down over time. There’s a beautiful sense of community built into Mexican cuisine, and all four Alberta chefs we spoke with encourage everyone to experience it. From personal takes on tradition, to dishes created in honour of spring, here’s just a taste of what Mexico in Alberta has to offer.

Calgary’s Tu Tierra was opened in 2006 as a small Latin market. Co-owners and childhood friends Hector Delgado and Diana Palafox saw an opportunity to draw more customers by cooking and serving items such as tacos and burritos. “People were always asking for more and more food,” says Delgado. “We switched the business from a store to a taqueria, and then moved to a bigger place.”

Delgado grew up watching his mother and grandmothers cook. “My mom is from northern Mexico, so my sisters and I grew up on those regional recipes.” He also has fond memories of family gatherings at his grandparents’ home, where dishes like mole and barbacoa were staples. “I’ve always had a love for cooking,” he says. “And I knew I wanted to do it for a living.”

“Mexican food is about the flavours,” says Delgado. “It’s about the aromas and the textures.” It’s also about tradition.

“Pozole is an antique dish and is often eaten during festivals and parties.” While there are variations for each region of Mexico, his recipe is like those found in northern Mexico, with his own touches of pork and chipotle.

Pozole de Frijol

Serves 4-6

¼ cup (60 mL) oil

1 half small white onion, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

1 kg of pork chops cut into 1 cm cubes

250 g pinto or red kidney beans, cooked, with cooking liquid reserved

250 g hominy* pre-cooked

25 g chipotle pepper in adobo sauce* finely minced ½ tsp dried oregano

To taste salt and pepper ½ cup (125 g) queso fresco*

(*you can find hominy, queso fresco, and chipotle at specialty Latin markets)

1. In a large pot, heat oil on medium high. Add onion, garlic and pork, and sauté for 5 minutes.

2. Add beans and cooking liquid to pot, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add the remaining ingredients except the queso fresco, cook for another 10 minutes, adding water if needed.

4. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Ladle into bowls and top with queso fresco.

Originally from Mexico City, Chef Alli Said came to Calgary over 10 years ago with a degree in culinary arts, and experience cooking in Spanish, Italian, and Mexican restaurants. He quickly became partners with Mike Clark, owner of Mikey’s Juke Joint (now closed) and together they opened Mikey’s on 12th.

“When there are family events, everyone helps with the cooking,” says Said. Catering was the family business, where his mother and aunts cooked in the morning, and Said DJ’d at night. While he studied for his degree, he got more involved with the business. “My grandmother and mom taught me amazing techniques,” he explains. “And every time I go to Mexico, my mom is still teaching me!”

“I really invite people to learn about real Mexican food – the spices, the chilies, and the tomatoes right from Mexico,” says Said. “It’s complex at times, but it is so good.” His recipe for ceviche, created with spring in mind, is something that can be recreated with ease. “Practice your knife skills,” he adds, “And have fun with it.”

Chef Alli Said’s Chipotle Tuna and Mango Ceviche Tostada Serves 4

2½ cups tomatoes, diced 1 cup red onion, minced ¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped ¾ cup mango, diced 1 jalapeno, de-seeded and diced (add additional jalapenos to increase spiciness) ¾ cup cucumber, diced 3 limes, juiced 500g raw ahi tuna, cut into 1 cm cubes

To taste salt and pepper Corn tortillas or ready-made tostadas Oil for shallow frying

Dressing:

1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise

1 chipotle pepper

½ cup (125 mL) white vinegar

¼ tsp oregano

To taste salt and pepper

1. In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, mango, jalapeno and cucumber.

2. Add lime juice to the mixture.

3. Add the cubed tuna and set aside while making the dressing.

4. In a blender, combine mayonnaise, chipotle pepper, vinegar, and oregano until blended. Adjust seasoning accordingly.

5. If using corn tortillas: Fill a deep frying

pan with 2-3 cms of canola oil. Heat on high to 350º F. When the oil is hot, add a corn tortilla. Flip at least twice or until crispy, then remove and let drain on a piece of paper towel. Repeat until you have enough tostadas to serve.

6. Place tostada on a plate, add ceviche mixture and dress with the chipotle mayo. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

Chef Mariel Montero-Sena is the owner of Edmonton’s Huma Mexican Comfort. “Well, owner-slash-dishwasher-slashserver,” she explains. “Anything that is needed.” From Pueblo, Mexico, she earned a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts and spent time traveling the world and experiencing different cultures before coming to Edmonton.

“My grandmother is my inspiration, and her kitchen was my happy place when I was growing up.” Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain was another guiding force. “I realized that food is a way of connecting with people. It doesn’t matter who you are or where you’re from. We can all share a meal and have a good time.”

“Mexican cuisine is not just tacos and guacamole,” she adds. Many dishes require hours of preparation and attention to detail. “If you don’t know how to deal with dried chilies, take your time and do some research.” Her take on Sopa de Tortilla has a chili-based broth as opposed to tomato-based. “It’s different compared to what grandma does, but I wanted to be adventurous.” In the end, it earned her grandmother’s approval.

Sopa de Tortilla

Serves 4

2 tsp (10 mL) cooking oil

2 corn tortillas

4 cloves garlic, unpeeled

4 large plum tomatoes

1 medium yellow or white onion, peeled and quartered

2 medium dried ancho chilies, stems removed

2 medium dried pasilla chilies, stems removed

Water to cover

2 sprigs epazote or cilantro (or use 1 Tbs dried epazote)

6 cups (1.5 L) chicken broth, divided

To taste salt and pepper

Cooking oil for shallow frying

6 corn tortillas, cut into strips about 1 cm wide

1. Heat a heavy sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add oil. Fry tortillas for about 1 minute until softened. Remove tortillas and cool. Tear tortillas into pieces.

2. Wipe out pan. Place back onto medium-high heat and add the garlic, whole tomatoes, and onion. Using tongs, turn the vegetables occasionally for

about 10 minutes to ensure charring on all sides. Remove the vegetables from pan and peel the garlic. Add the charred vegetables to the blender with the tortilla pieces.

3. Cover the chilies with water in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil for 5 minutes until softened. Drain and add to blender with epazote and 1 cup (250 mL) chicken broth. Blend until smooth. Strain mixture through a mesh sieve if a smoother texture is desired.

4. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan or Dutch oven and add the remaining 5 cups chicken broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. For the tortilla strips: Pour enough oil to reach a depth of 1 cm in a medium-sized, heavy skillet. Heat over medium-high until very hot but not smoking. Add the tortilla strips in batches and fry until golden and crisp, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

7. Ladle the soup into individual serving bowls. Serve with crema, avocados, queso fresco or panela cheese, and tortilla strips on the side to add to soup as desired.

Giovanni Vasquez, of Calgary’s El Chefe, always knew he wanted to open a restaurant. Starting as a dishwasher at Salsa Restaurant, he wasn’t afraid to speak up when he thought something was missing from a recipe. “I’d tell them, ‘Hey, I think your salsa verde is missing something. Maybe add a little cumin.’”

Those instincts quickly landed him in kitchens of several Calgary restaurants, where he gained more experience with different cuisines. “When I’m in the kitchen cooking, the day just goes by so quickly,” says Vasquez. “I wasn’t really into sports like soccer, or anything else,” admits Vasquez. “So I’d watch my grandparents or my mom cook. For me, it was exciting to sit down and eat something that I cooked with my mom.”

Vasquez prefers acidic sauces like the one here made with tomatillo. The recipe, first made by his mother, quickly became one of Vasquez’s favourites. “When I’d visit her, it was either cooking, or already on the table. And every time she would make it, I’d have to have the first bite.”

Entomatado De Res

Serves 4-6

1.5–2 kg beef shoulder, cut into 2 cm cubes

1 medium onion cut into ½ cm chunks ½ tsp salt

4 - 5 dried morita peppers

1 kg tomatillo (fresh if you can find them, but canned is fine)

3 cloves garlic

1 to 2 small cans chipotle peppers in adobo

1 cup (250 mL) water

1 to 2 tsp beef bouillon powder

To taste salt

1. Add beef to a large pot, and add enough water to cover the meat. Add in salt and one quarter of the chopped onion. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer, and cook until the water is fully reduced.

2. Cook the beef with the fat accumulated in the pot until it’s browned. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Bring morita chilies to boil in a small pot

with enough water to cover. Boil for 3-5 minutes to soften. Drain and set aside.

4. If using fresh tomatillos, add them to a pan on medium-high heat and turn occasionally until charred on all sides. Allow to cool slightly and add to a blender. If using canned, add them to the blender straight from the can.

5. Add morita chilies, garlic, the rest of the onion, and one tin of chipotle peppers in adobo (two tins if you like it spicy!). Pulse 2 or 3 times to ensure a chunky sauce.

6. Add tomatillo sauce to pan with cooked beef, and add in one cup of water, and 1 to 2 tsp bouillon powder. Stir to incorporate and add salt to taste. Simmer on medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

7. Serve with warm tortillas, rice, and beans.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

Edible Gardening:

THROWING OUT ‘PERFECT’ TO LET PASSION GROW

BY LEILANI OLYNIUK

Two years ago, we were all forced to take a pause and rediscover things that bring us joy. For some, that was jumping on the Banneton-bandwagon to nurture a sourdough starter and perfect our scoring technique.

For others, it was a chance to get back to our roots, appreciate a little dirt under our nails and cultivate a garden that could nourish not only our bellies, but our souls too. Planning and selecting seeds to plant, grow, and harvest is daunting for some, but it doesn’t have to be. It can be meditative and cathartic, joyful even (and who doesn’t need that these days?!).

For the most part, we’re detached from the origin of our food; we don’t know who grew it or where it came from. So, seeing

a chef in their crisp whites saunter out to the garden with shears and a bowl to cut fresh greens and herbs for a seasonal salad not only creates an idyllic scene, but delights diners in an unmatched way. That’s because a lot of us are yearning for a simple life that offers a chance to connect with something and someone. Restaurateurs worldwide have adopted the garden-to-table philosophy to reignite a chef’s passion for fresh ingredients and inspire menus that celebrate bright, bold, and beautiful flavours.

In 2015, Paul Shufelt of Workshop Eatery in Edmonton, fell in love with a space for his new restaurant venture without knowing what kind of dining experience would come to life. The LEED Platinum certified building that housed

his restaurant was required to have a certain portion of edible landscaping. And so he and his chefs found themselves taking advantage of a unique opportunity to lean into what was flourishing in the garden space to influence menu items and daily specials that feature an abundant crop. Boasting 21 beds of varying sizes, diners enjoy garden-fresh produce that is transformed into stunning dishes by agile chefs who tweak recipes on the fly to highlight seasonal flavours.

Born, raised, and trained in Austria, chef Tobias Larcher travelled the world to expand his culinary horizons before putting roots down in Canada. First as a Chef de Cuisine, and now Executive Chef, he heads up all the food and beverage outlets at Heritage Park. Flowers abound

in the historical village, but the vegetable gardens are expertly cultivated and serve as a way of educating visitors, and culinary students. The Field-to-Fork series, sadly suspended through covid, offered a behind-the-scenes garden tour before enjoying a four-course dinner that shone a spotlight on produce plucked from the grounds. Chef Larcher and Heritage Park’s head gardener, Rachel Spencer, are happily preparing for this delicious, immersive dining experience to launch again at the Selkirk Grille in Summer 2022.

Mike Soucy, a trained chef and lover of uncommon vegetables, has been experimenting in the garden for a decade. Weird, rarely-grown, sometimes-neverheard-of vegetables ignited a passion in him to start a small-scale farm business. He invited friends to get their hands dirty with him and sold produce in a weekly CSA box. Recipients were wowed with weekly surprises and challenged to cook with rare and remarkable garden treasures.

Today, with partner Tim Houghton, they cultivate botanicals, hard-to-find culinary herbs and edible flowers in two hoop houses, raised beds, and plots on a farm south of Calgary. The focus of Marigold MFG is on culturing fermented goods, specializing in small batch vinegars and condiments. They found the most vibrant and stunning flavours in long-forgotten ingredients like lovage and nasturtium. It transformed the way

they thought about growing food and combining flavours to create something extraordinary.

It doesn’t take much to elevate your own home-cooking, even if you don’t have a green thumb or culinary training. Each of these chefs embrace a sense of creativity in the kitchen that has them throwing out rigid recipes and playing around with the fruits and vegetables of their labour. And when asked what recommendations they have for the home-gardener and food-lover, they all echoed the same message: expand your horizons, throw away the recipe, discover flavours that excite you, don’t overcomplicate it, grow what you like to eat, share bumper crops with your

neighbours, and always grow herbs.

There are no mistakes when it comes to cooking food that you love. And there is no reward or gratitude greater than when you share a meal that started as a seed you planted with your favourite people.

This summer, may you breathe in that fresh garden smell as you brush off the soil from your hands and let the sun shine on your face as you dream of the delicious things you are going to create.

Wife, mother, food lover. Leilani has a diverse background in marketing and brand, copywriting and communications and applies her skills to helping businesses flourish as a Growth Manager at Everbrave Branding Group.

Chef Tobias Larcher

Chef Paul Shufelt

OPA!

Bringing the flavours of Greek street food into your kitchen is as easy as Gyro – Tsatziki – Bougatsa!

BY LESLI CHRISTIANSON-KELLOW

Enjoying a meal together is central to traditional Greek culture; gathering with family and friends around a table laden with delicious food that almost always include ripe red tomatoes, crispy cucumbers, plump olives, salty feta, savoury meats, and rich Greek yogurt.

‘Fresh from the garden’ goodness, after all, is the foundation of Greek cuisine. By combining simple, easy to find ingredients like extra virgin olive oil, oregano, garlic, rosemary, mint, and dill, with fresh vegetables and meats, it’s easy to bring the taste of Greece into your mealtimes.

Although Greek food is delicious any time of year, enjoying it outdoors with strings of patio lanterns and a few bottles of Mythos Lager might just transport you to a taverna in Greece. Add some casual and tasty Greek street foods like Gyros, Tsatziki, Horiatiki (Greek Salad) and Bougatsa and you might just have a weekly ritual on your hands. And the best part? You can create these Greek favourites in your own kitchen with ingredients found locally.

The Gyro (pronounced “Ghee-ro”), is a popular Greek street food found in both large cities like Athens and on tiny islands,

like Skopelos (Think Mamma Mia!). The savoury meat (whether it’s pork, chicken, beef or lamb) is simply spiced and tightly stacked on a vertical rotisserie, and slowly roasted for hours at a low temperature. This cooking method creates a meat that’s juicy and tender. To serve, the meat is thinly sliced and nestled on a pita bread, alongside tomatoes, onions, feta, and French fries. The finishing touch is a dollop of garlicky tzatziki sauce.

Tsatziki is a yogurt-based sauce that combines garlic, cucumber, white wine vinegar, and olive oil, to create an addictive sauce that is served alongside most Greek

dishes and used as a condiment or a dip. And for dessert? Bougatsa - a popular Greek street food that is an addictive pie-like creation consisting of a creamy semolina custard middle surrounded by layers of phyllo and sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar. Bougatsa is definitely meant to be shared and tastes even better the next day!

Gyros

Serves 6-8

6-8 pita breads

1.8 Kg pork shoulder blade roast

1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil

1 tsp oregano

1 tsp salt

½ tsp pepper

350 g onions, sliced

350 g red or orange bell peppers, sliced

1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil

½ tsp salt

200 g French fries, quick baking

2 cups (500 mL) tsatziki (see recipe below)

85 g feta, crumbled

200 g tomatoes, sliced

1. Preheat oven to 400° F. Rub olive oil, oregano, salt and pepper over pork roast. Brown each side in a pot on the stove. Place in the preheated oven in a covered roasting pan.

2. Bake for 30 minutes then turn heat down to 325° F, and bake until internal temperature reaches 155° F. Remove from oven, cover with tin foil and let rest. Pork takes approximately 20 minutes per pound to cook when covered.

3. While the pork is roasting, slice onions and peppers in half and then into ½ cm thick strips. Transfer to a baking sheet. Toss in the oil and salt.

4. Once the pork has finished roasting, remove from the oven and cover with tin foil. Let rest.

5. With the oven at 400° F. Place the pan of onions and peppers into the oven for about 20 minutes (until onions are translucent and peppers start to brown around the edges).

6. Place the fries on a baking sheet and place in the oven for 10 minutes, or until baked. Both pans will be in the oven. Remove when ready.

7. Slice the pork roast and place on the pan that holds the pepper and onions, add the fries. This is a brilliant way to serve and have guests to make their own gyros, family-style.

8. To prepare a Gyro: On a pita bread, slather Tsatziki, arrange onions, peppers, pork, and fries. Sprinkle with crumbled feta cheese and tomatoes. Enjoy!

Tsatziki

Serves 6-8

2 cups (500 mL) Greek yogurt

100 g cucumber, peeled and finely grated

4 garlic cloves, pressed

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil

2 tsp (10 mL) white wine vinegar

1 Tbs fresh dill, finely chopped To taste salt and pepper

1. Line a fine mesh strainer with a cheesecloth or a paper coffee filter, and set over a bowl. Add yogurt and let sit in the refrigerator for 1-4 hours. The longer the yogurt is strained, the thicker it becomes. When ready, transfer the yogurt to a bowl.

2. Squeeze the excess liquid out of the grated cucumber and add to the yogurt.

3. Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl. Combine thoroughly.

Bougatsa

Makes 20

6 cups (1.5 L) 2 percent milk

1 tsp (15 mL) vanilla

1½ cups sugar

1½ cups semolina

1 tsp (15 mL) lemon juice

5 eggs, whisked in bowl

½ cup unsalted butter, melted 12 sheets phyllo pastry

1 Tbs cinnamon ¼ cup icing sugar

1. In a stockpot, combine milk, vanilla, sugar, semolina, and lemon juice. Whisk continuously. Once custard begins to thicken, scoop 1 cup (250 mL) into the eggs and stir. This is just a trick to warm up the eggs so they incorporate nicely into the custard. Pour the mixture into the stockpot. Continue whisking until the eggs have combined well into the custard. Set aside.

2. Preheat oven to 350° F. Using a pastry brush, butter the bottom and sides of a 22x33 cm (9x13”) baking dish.

3. Lay one phyllo sheet into the baking dish allowing the excess phyllo to hang over the sides of the baking dish. Generously spread the melted butter onto the sheet of phyllo, including the overhanging edges. Repeat this step with five more sheets of phyllo.

4. Pour the custard into the baking dish

over the stack of phyllo. Use a spatula to scrape the pot clean.

5. Arrange the remaining six phyllo sheets on top of the custard, again generously buttering between each layer, including the edges hanging over the baking dish.

6. Tightly roll the edges of the phyllo together towards the baking dish, gently tucking the rolled edges neatly into the pan. It’s okay if the phyllo cracks or splinters. It’s not meant to be perfect. Think rustic.

7. Lightly score into the first 2 layers of phyllo with a sharp knife, as if you are cutting the bougatsa into 20 pieces. This will allow the steam to escape and make it easier to serve.

8. Slightly wet your fingers and then flick

your fingers over the bougatsa so a bit of water hits the top. This will stop the phyllo from puffing up too much.

9. Place the bougatsa in the preheated oven for 40-50 minutes or until it is slightly puffed up and is golden brown. Gently poke a knife into the custard and if the knife comes out clean, it has set and is finished baking. Remove from oven.

10. Allow to cool for 10 minutes then sprinkle generously with cinnamon and then icing sugar. Cool at least 30 minutes before serving.

Lesli is a freelance writer, expert gardener, and home cook who enjoys creating dishes reminiscent of her travels. Her writing has appeared in the Calgary Herald, Condo-Xtra, WestJet Magazine, and others. Instagram @LesliCKellow.

Naramata grown. And raised.

Beer and Balsamic Braised Beef Short Ribs

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

Tender, melt-in-your-mouth beef short ribs make a delicious meal, especially during the cooler months of the year. Short ribs tend to have a lot of fat and connective tissue, making them ideal for hands-off, “low and slow” cooking methods such as braising, whether in a slow cooker, on the stove top or in the oven. I imagine an instant pressure cooker gadget could cook them much faster, but I quite like having something cooking low and slow in the oven while I putter around the house.

Short ribs are taken from the chuck, brisket, rib, or plate areas of beef. They contain a short portion of the rib bone, which is overlain by meat of varying degrees of thickness.

There are two common cuts of short ribs: English-style, which are cut into long or short one-bone pieces, and flanken-style, which are cut into strips across several ribs. Plan on at least one pound per person, or about two 8 cm pieces per person. Of course, this all depends on how meaty the ribs are, and the appetite of the folks at your table.

Beer and balsamic vinegar lend a sumptuous richness to these ribs, which fall off the bone in the very best way. Because there are a few steps to this dish and the cooking time is the better part of the afternoon, this recipe is ideal for weekend cooking. Serve with buttery mashed potatoes or even parsnip puree for elevated supper fare.

Beer and Balsamic Braised Beef Short Ribs

Serves 4-6

2 kg bone-in beef short ribs, Englishstyle

3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oil

½ large yellow onion, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

2 garlic cloves, smashed

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

¼ cup (60 mL) tomato paste

½ cup (120 mL) balsamic vinegar

3 Tbs (45 mL) Worcestershire sauce

1 bottle (330 mL) dark beer

2-3 cups (500-750 mL) low-sodium beef broth

¼ cup chopped parsley, for garnish Sprigs of thyme, for garnish

1. Season the short ribs generously and on all sides with salt and pepper. Warm a large 35 cm (14 inch) braising pan or a Dutch oven (8-9 L) over medium-high heat. Add the oil. Once it’s hot, brown the ribs on all sides in batches. Transfer the browned ribs to a plate and repeat with remaining ribs.

2. While the ribs are browning, add the onion, celery, carrots, and garlic to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process until smooth.

3. Preheat the oven to 325º F.

4. Once all the ribs are browned and removed from the pot, stir the vegetables into the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for

about 7-8 minutes until the vegetables are browned. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another 3 minutes, until thickened.

5. Pour in the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and beer. Scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

6. Return the ribs to the pan, arranging them with the meatiest sides facing down. Add enough beef broth to cover the ribs. Bring the liquid to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Cover the pot tightly with aluminum foil, then with the lid. The foil helps prevent too much liquid from evaporating from the pot.

7. Bake for 3 hours, or until the meat can be easily pierced with a fork and the meat seems like it wants to fall apart from the bone. Remove from the oven and let the ribs rest for 15 minutes, uncovered. Skim as much fat as you can off the top.

8. To serve the simple way: Garnish with

chopped parsley and place on the table alongside mashed potatoes.

9. To serve the elegant way: Preheat the oven to 350º F. Remove the ribs from the sauce and place on a baking sheet. Roast them for 15 minutes until the edges start to crisp. Meanwhile, strain the braising liquid into a medium saucepan and simmer it over high heat for 10-15 minutes, until reduced by a third. The sauce should be opaque and be slightly thickened. Arrange the ribs on a platter and drizzle with half of the sauce. Generously mound some mashed potatoes on each plate or shallow bowl. Arrange 2 ribs on the potatoes and drape with additional sauce. Garnish with parsley and thyme.

To Make Ahead:

Chill the entire dish in its braising liquid in the fridge (covered, of course) for up to 2 days. The great part about this is the fat is solidified and easier to remove. Plus, this resting time allows the ribs to develop even more flavour. This is a great tip if you are planning on entertaining - just reheat and serve as steps 8 or 9.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

This recipe is ideal for weekend cooking

Lambtastic Farms: Making Alberta lamb a household name

BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Anyone who pays close attention to menus at finer dining restaurants in Calgary has probably seen the words “Lambtastic Farms” listed next to a lamb chop dish or two. The Vulcan, Alberta-based farm has become a bit of a superstar over the years, creating a farm-to-table product that rivals some of the ranch-specific beef brands as far as recognizability goes. Beef may still rule in Alberta, but Lambtastic’s Ray and Nancy Nolan are slowly converting discerning Alberta meat-eaters into loyal lamb lovers.

Even though they’re partners in both business and life, Ray and Nancy didn’t meet in the world of agriculture — the couple both left their respective

childhood homes in Ireland and Alberta to take on the world of fine dining. After completing professional cooking programs, they both ended up in London, cooking at the very prestigious Dorchester Hotel.

Eventually the Nolans decided they wanted to settle down and have a family — not something that’s particularly conducive to restaurant life — and since both had grown up in farming families, raising food seemed like a viable option. Their experiences in the world of fine dining had highlighted the restaurant industry’s demand for high-quality farmfresh food.

Since Ray has an older brother running his family farm, setting up shop in Ireland

wasn’t an option. Luckily, Nancy’s parents were preparing to step back from their own farming operation, so the pair headed to Vulcan and set up Lambtastic Farms in 2012. Nancy’s family spent their lives raising beef and grain, but Ray’s livestock background was in sheep and lamb, so he had a pretty good handle on those animals. The Nolans also saw a gap in the market when it came to the direct market farming of Alberta lamb, and liked the lifestyle that lamb production could offer them.

“Lamb is something that I've always liked,” Ray says. “Especially with a young family, it’s a little easier to manage with kids around. You’re not having your kids out there getting mowed down by a cow.”

Lambtastic Chop

Both Nolans knew that they wanted to raise their lambs ethically and hormonefree, to feed them healthy food, and to process them at the optimal age to create a product that local chefs would clamour to get into their kitchens. By buying directly from the farm, restaurants know that they’ll get consistently highquality meat, while still supporting a local business and giving customers a legitimate farm-to-table experience. Calgary restaurants like Yellow Door Bistro, River Café, The Guild, and many others have all been customers, and the Nolans are happy to be the top choice of some very respected chefs. They hope that those chefs’ skills will inspire diners who may not always reach for lamb in their home kitchens.

“Chefs were crying out for local beef, so why not local lamb?” Ray says. “Restaurants were our go-to in the beginning. We didn't really do much retail at the start because we wanted to be the number one supplier for restaurants. It was a big goal of ours to get into higher end restaurants and make our name that way.”

That Lambtastic name was well established going into the pandemic. But restaurant activity has obviously slowed

over the last few years, so Lambtastic is keen to become a known quantity with home cooks as well. Since many Albertans didn’t grow up eating lamb in the same way they do beef (or worse, have been put off sheep completely thanks to poorly prepared mutton), the Nolans try to make things easy for customers by providing recipes on their website and also offer easy-to-use products like lamb sausages, lamb burgers, and pre-made lamb ravioli, as well as fully cooked braised lamb shanks and lamb jerky for customers who might not be quite ready to invest in or cook up a rack of lamb or a full leg of

True Local, and Best of Calgary Foods. Most importantly though, the farm sells directly through its lambtasticfarms.com website and delivers to urban centres all over Alberta.

“We’ve really made it easier for people to eat lamb,” Ray says. “Really, that’s all we want: for more people in Alberta to eat lamb.”

lamb. Once those customers are hooked, Lambtastic can sell them anything from lamb neck to entire lambs broken down into individual cuts.

“We’ve tried to make it more approachable,” Ray says. “Not everybody wants a rack of lamb. Our sausages are more approachable. Getting my kids to eat lamb is probably tougher than it should be, but if we cook the ravioli the kids are eating all of it.”

While federal regulations make it tricky for small farms to get their meat into major grocery chains, Lambtastic’s meat is available in some independent grocery stores and through services like Spud,

A family business

Restaurants know that they’ll get consistently high-quality meat

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

Brunch or Bust: A

Guide to Making the Best Pancakes, Waffles, and French Toast

BY MALLORY FRAYN

As a famous cereal company once said, “breakfast is the most important meal of the day.” What started as a catchy advertising slogan has become a mantra, particularly on weekends when leisurely, pyjama brunches reign supreme.

Starting your Saturday with an underwhelming plate of pancakes or waffles is a dud, so these dos and don’ts will help make sure that you break your fast in the most satisfying of ways.

Pancakes

Of all the recipes in a brunch cook’s arsenal, having a reliable formula for pancakes is always a crowd pleaser. While simple at their most basic, needing only flour, milk, eggs, and baking powder to come together, it isn’t to say that ratios and quantities aren’t important in producing a desirable outcome. Some prefer their pancakes on the thinner side, more of a flapjack as it were. This usually requires a thinner batter and less leavening. On the flip side (pun intended), thicker batter with more leavening produces

cakier pancakes, all the better for sopping up maple syrup.

If you’re looking to spice up your traditional recipe, there are two angles you can come at it: 1) changing up the batter itself or 2) working with the same base, but adding in accoutrement after the fact. This is easier, and only requires knowing what add-ins tickle your fancy.

A sprinkle of blueberries or chocolate chips is classic, but creativity is king. Try piña colada pancakes, bejewelled with chunks of pineapple, fresh or candied, and toasted coconut. Or opt for the savoury route with bacon pancakes. That’s right, you can inlay cooked bacon into your pancakes, merging two brunch favourites into one.

Should you wish to experiment with the batter itself, it can be helpful to think about other forms of cakes that could translate into pancake form. For example, adding finely grated carrots and warm spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, can turn your standard pancakes into carrot cake pancakes. Add in poppyseeds, lemon zest, and lemon juice and you’ve got yourself a batch of lemon poppyseed pancakes.

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Plain, white sandwich bread can yield delicious French toast, but because it is soft and squishy, it only needs a second or two to soak up the custard before cooking. Alternately, if you’re worried about it disintegrating, cut it into thicker slices and allow it to dry overnight so it loses some of its moisture.

Conversely, if you’re working with a heartier loaf, you’ll probably want to cut it thinner and soak it longer to avoid ending up with cardboard. Keep in mind that a two-stage cooking process is often helpful. In other words, start your French toast in the pan, and finish it in the oven to allow it to cook all the way through.

Because of French toast’s durability, it’s a great canvas to get creative with sauces and fillings. While maple syrup is classic, mixed berry compotes and all forms of jams and jellies go great on top of or inside French toast. Mix plain yogurt with orange juice and zest for a creamier finished that isn’t quite as rich as whipped cream. You can also crust your French toast for added texture and flavour. Try sprinkling it with coarse sugar after it’s cooked but before serving, and melt the sugar with either a blow torch or using your broiler on low. Voila, brûléed French toast!

Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

One-Off St. George’s Day Celebration at A1 Café and Wine Bar Sunday April 24 Don’t miss the opportunity for this one-off, fun and very delicious evening, and enjoy a sparkling reception followed by a five-course meal, paired to complement the flavours of British Chef, James Lawson’s modern take on traditional English dishes.

We’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus for you to enjoy an evening of good food where you don’t have to do the washing up afterwards.

Our promise is that we’ll only offer events where you can relax and enjoy an evening out, seated only with people you choose.

Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and email if you’d like to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. They do sell out rather quickly!

One-Off Vine & Dine Evening at Flower & Wolf Saturday April 9 Flower & Wolf have a new elevated menu, and we can’t wait for our Saturday evening 6-course pairing dinner here to enjoy our new menu of beautifully executed, flavourful dishes cooked with loveand ingredients from local farmers.

Vine & Dine at The Attic Tuesday April 12 and Mother’s Day, May 8

We’re excited to be at the new Attic Bar this spring for two fabulous evenings to enjoy Chef Lyndon Hertz’s upscale and very creative dishes - they really are unique, and we can’t wait for you to try them! We’re here for six courses of this delicious menu, each carefully paired to complement the ingredients.

A Celebration of Great Big Nature with Brian Keating! Wednesday April 27 SOLD OUT!

As our evening on March 30 sold out very quickly with a long waiting list, we were thrilled to offer a repeat evening in April with Brian’s new videos and stories, and 6-course pairing meal at Safari Grill.

One-Off Special Fine & Dine Pairing Dinner at TPot China Bistro Wednesday May 25 Join us for a very special 6-course Fine & Dine pairing dinner, for one-night only at this lovely restaurant – awarded the Best Cantonese Cuisine Restaurant in Canada 2018, and try their superb, upscale, authentic, and completely delicious cuisine, each dish paired to complement the flavours!

Special Surf-Turf dinner at Modern Steak Southport Thursday May 12 One night only! A fabulous evening for just 18 people in the private dining room of the beautiful new Modern Steak Southport location for a premium multi-course pairing dinner celebrating both land and sea.

Menus are added regularly, so check out our paired dinners and email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve yours. We try to cater for all allergies.

Ham It Up

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

Abone-in leg of ham makes a beautiful and extravagant show at the centre of your Easter dining table. A quick, sweet glaze to balance the saltiness from the ham along with a couple of sides such as roasted green beans and garlic mashed potatoes and you’ve got yourself a delicious spring feast. It’s a wonder why we don’t have ham more often?

Roasted Ham with Mustard, Honey Bourbon Glaze

200-250 g per person bone-in leg of ham 20-30 whole cloves

1 cup (240 mL) bourbon ½ cup (120 mL) honey

¼ cup (60 mL) maple syrup

1½ Tbs (22 mL) Dijon mustard

4 cloves garlic

1 tsp dried thyme

1 tsp dried sage

To remove or keep the skin is a personal preference. If you are removing the skin: Don’t trim the fat with the skin. The fat layer adds needed moisture so your ham does not dry out during cooking.

1. Cut a line through the skin all around the shank end. Insert a sharp knife between the rind and fat and run it along to detach both layers.

2. Using your fingers, gently separate the rind from the fat and discard the rind.

3. Score into the fat layer a 2 cm deep diamond pattern all over the surface.

If you are keeping the skin on: with a sharp knife, score a 2 cm diamond pattern over the entire ham.

1. Preheat oven to 325° F.

2. Line a shallow roasting pan with several sheets of foil (this will make for easier clean up).

3. Push the cloves into each corner of the diamond.

4. Place ham in your roasting pan and add ½ cup (120 mL) water. Place ham in the oven on the lower shelf. Tent with foil if you find the ham getting too dark.

Glaze

Add the bourbon, honey, maple syrup, mustard, garlic, thyme, and sage in a small pot over medium-high heat. Let cook at a low boil for 10 - 15 minutes to reduce. Reserve for coating the ham during the last 30 minutes of cooking (approximately 15º F before fully cooked).

How long to cook your ham?

Approximately 45 minutes per kilo.

For hams that are labelled “cook before eating” cook until the internal temperature reaches 165° F.

For hams that are labelled "fully cooked” or “ready to eat” cook until the internal temperature reaches 150° F.

Let the ham rest for 10 - 20 minutes before slicing.

Go Big!

With all the amazing things you can do with leftover ham and just how easy it is to prepare, you might as well go big and portion out your ham for multiple meals.

The bone makes a great base flavour for a split pea or white bean soup.

Ham is easy to freeze so keep portions on hand for quick meal preparation. Cut up ham into cubes and portion out so you can thaw and add to scrambled eggs, pasta, fried rice, or macaroni and cheese. Freeze some thin slices to thaw and make delicious ham sandwiches like this Monte Cristo.

Monte Cristo-Style Ham Sandwich Makes 4 sandwiches

This is a filling sandwich. You could even make it for dinner with a side salad. Or brunch with a sweet glaze.

4 eggs

1 Tbs (15 mL) milk or water

Pinch salt

240 g Gruyere cheese, grated or thinly sliced

8 slices bread, sourdough or brioche preferably

To coat mayonnaise

4-8 slices leftover ham

To coat Dijon mustard

2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) olive oil

2-3 Tbs butter

1. In a medium-sized shallow dish crack eggs and whisk to break up the yolks. Add the milk or water and salt and whisk until fully combined.

2. Lay the bottom slices of bread on your work surface and coat with mayonnaise.

3. Add 30 g of cheese and spread evenly across the bread. Lay the ham slices on top of the cheese. Add the next 30 g of

cheese on top of the ham.

4. Coat the top slice of bread with Dijon mustard and close sandwich.

5. Preheat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add half the butter and olive oil to the pan.

6. Gently place sandwiches in the egg mixture and turn to coat both sides. Add sandwich to the pan and cook 4 minutes on each side. Cheese should be fully melted and the outside toasty brown. Remove from frying pan. Continue with same procedure until all sandwiches are cooked. You can keep the sandwiches warm in the oven (on warm or the lowest temperature) while you cook the rest of the sandwiches.

Sweet garnish options: bourbon maple syrup glaze and a dusting of sugar.

Savoury garnish options: your favourite barbecue sauce and picked red onions.

Ham isn’t just for Easter or other special occasions. It’s delicious any day.

Note: If you don’t want to use eggsuse softened butter to coat the outside of the bread and sauté like you would a grilled cheese. So good!

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

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Purslane:

garden treasure, underfoot and overlooked

BY BY MORRIS LEMIRE

If, when you first looked at the title of this piece, you said, “Purslane? Never heard of it”, you are not alone. I went through two-dozen cookbooks before I found a passing reference in the dog-eared family edition of Mrs. Beeton’s, Cookery & Household Management (1960), now used mainly for historical reference. Mrs. B is somewhat dated.

There is a chapter on “Domestic Helpers and Their Duties”: “Go out to the herb garden, Franny, and bring in some purslane”.

Purslane likes heat; the hotter it got last summer, the better it did. Every plant has a temperature range in which it ripens. Purslane’s range is the higher end of the scale. At ground level, between the

cracks of our patio stones, it thrived in heat that was over 40° C. The tomatoes shut down, the pole beans wilted, but purslane went crazy.

Among the qualities that piqued my interest in this vegetable were its commonality, its ability to thrive without fuss or bother, and its obvious tolerance to heat, an attribute we will need going forward. As I investigated further, I discovered that it is the subject of considerable scientific interest, bordering on excitement. It turns out to be one of the few edible plants high in omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. It’s like having salmon in your garden. Scientists are fully aware of the decline in fatty fish populations (salmon, turbot, herring);

they are clearly concerned about environmental change and are beginning to promote plants suitable for future food security - a new buzz phrase.

The intention when choosing lesser-known garden vegetables is to re-focus our attention on foods that are overlooked by large suppliers or linger lost in weed wilderness.

When is a plant a weed and when is it not? That question may be as old as “weeds” themselves. Aldo Leopold raised it in his classic essay, “What is a Weed” (1947). More recently, Michael Pollen talks about weeds in the context of purslane in his 2008 book, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto. If it is in your canola field competing for water

Purslane Salad with Cucumber and Yogurt

and nutrients you may think of it as a weed. On the other hand, if it is in your back yard, literally underfoot, rich in melatonin, iron and amino acids it may be more beneficial to think of it as part of your home menu.

When I noticed how well it liked the heat on the patio, I transplanted it to a designated spot in the garden, in between bricks. And sure enough it took off. The bricks absorbed the heat and kept the plants out of the mud. This also made it easier to get at. While its presence is a sign of healthy soil, hence its affinity for tomatoes, it will grow just about anywhere.

Purslane self-propagates via its tiny seeds, which can live up to forty years. However, if you have to control it, then dig it out as soon as you see the first little yellow flowers. Don’t leave any broken off bits behind, because they will readily re-root. The good news is that it can be grown in pots, and it loves a hot balcony.

Edible purslane comes in two varietals. The one most common in Alberta (Portulaca oleracea) is a free-range ground-hugger. The second (P. oleracea sativa) is taller and grows wild in India and throughout the Middle East, which helps explain its tolerance to heat. Like many desert plants, it is a succulent, (95% H2O) so you won’t have to worry about watering. It also grows throughout Europe and the U.K. where it is better known as Portulaca. Use that term if

you are searching for recipes. The taller sativa varietal with its bigger leaf, is easier to harvest. You can order these seeds from westcoastseeds.com, in B.C. or Johnny’s Selected Seeds in Maine, johnnyseeds.com.

Retail availability for purslane is still limited, but it’s often found at garden centres. In the Edmonton area, Reclaim Urban Farm grows it on their plot in Leduc County, and can be found at the Edmonton Downtown Farmers' Market. In season, they also supply Blush Lane, Mo-na, and Earth's General Store. Phone first. If you want them to supply your restaurant or grocery store, contact them well in advance.

Purslane is a pulpy, mild tasting veg with lemony notes and hints of green flavours akin to spinach. You can eat it cooked or raw; the Italians use it in many dishes, including risotto. The French often use it in salad, which they may have adopted from the Lebanese who put it their beautiful breaded Fattoush salad. On the Indian subcontinent purslane is used in a myriad of ways, imagination being the only limiting factor. This suggests that we shouldn’t be shy about experimenting. Purslane is ideal in a salad. This recipe can be quickly made as a light, low calorie lunch or as a side with supper. It’s mild and cool - perfect for a hot summer’s day.

Purslane Salad with Cucumber and Yogurt Serves two for lunch

1 garlic clove, crushed 1 loose cup purslane, washed ½ cup cucumber, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil

1 lime

To taste salt and pepper ½ cup (125 mL) yogurt

1. Rub a salad bowl with the crushed garlic clove.

2. Add washed purslane to the bowl. The stems are also edible so you can leave the smaller reddish stems on if you like.

3. Add chopped cucumber, drizzle over olive oil and toss together.

4. Squeeze lime juice over the purslane, cucumber, and oil, and stir.

5. Season to taste.

6. Add in ½ cup (125mL) of fridge-cool yogurt. Toss well and serve.

Morris Lemire lives in Edmonton where he spends the summer gardening and winter skiing. He likes winter, in part, because citrus is plentiful. He uses citrus in everything from marmalade to preserved lemons, cocktails to meringues.

Belgian Beer Styles Beckon

BY DAVID NUTTALL

Acursory glance of beer style names will show that most are identified by region. We have American lagers, British ales, German hefeweizens, Czech pilsners, etc. These designations were about as far as beer descriptors got until Michael James Jackson's The World Guide To Beer was published in 1977. He categorized beers as more than colour, flavour, ABV, ingredients, and production methods, by identifying their history or origin and cultural significance to a locality.

When the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) formed in 1978 and the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) in 1985, they both developed style descriptors and guidelines for

competitions and brewing specifications, most which reflect region of origin.

The country that most fascinated Jackson, but was largely ignored in North America, was Belgium. In 1980, this relatively small country of less than ten million people had several hundred breweries (compared to three national and eight independent breweries in Canada and about 80 breweries in the U.S.). However, since most of its beer came from small cottage operations, very little of it left Europe, as exemplified by the number of Belgian beers available on ALCB store shelves at the time (zero).

That does not mean their brands weren’t appreciated; beer aficionados the world over knew the quality and

diversity of the country's output, which was part of Belgian beer's other obstacle to mass appeal, that diversification hurt Belgium’s identity to any distinct beer style(s); seemingly every brewery produced unique beers. Despite that, thanks to homebrewing clubs and savvy importers, a trickle of Belgian imports began to appear in North American liquor stores and restaurants by the mid 1990s, including Alberta. When New Belgium Brewing Company opened in 1991 in Colorado, and Unibroue in Quebec the following year, both essentially brewed Belgian style beers and craft brewing began to notice.

What makes many Belgian beer styles unique is the most overlooked ingredient

in beer - the yeast. While malts and hops draw all the acclaim, the yeast often only gets acknowledged for its utilitarian role in converting the sugars into CO2 and alcohol. However, it can also produce esters, phenols, and other compounds that can affect taste, aroma, and carbonation levels. Hence, some Belgian breweries have been guarding and cultivating their yeasts for centuries, making it almost impossible to copy their recipes.

Nonetheless, as craft brewing grew, its brewers began expanding their repertoire of recipes, and by the 2000s, many of them were producing their own versions of Belgian beer styles. The first and still most prominent style to appear was witbier (sometimes called wit). As a wheat beer with spices and citrus peel, it required ale yeast, so was an easy introduction for both brewers and beer drinkers.

Modern commercial yeast labs began in the 1980s, but really started to multiply in the 2010s as brewery numbers exploded. This allowed brewers access to the specialized yeast strains that defined Belgian beers, such as the saison. Made with its namesake yeast, it produces spicy/fruity characteristics that make it a favourite style to combine with fruit. Belgian brewers also stand apart in their fondness for using multiple grains. While barley dominates the malt bill of most beers, Belgians commonly use any of wheat malt, unmalted wheat, oats, rye, maize, spelt, and adjuncts for their mash bill. In addition, Belgians aren’t afraid of adding substantial amounts of sugary compounds either. These are essential ingredients when making higher alcohol beers like the Belgian Blonde and Golden Strong Ales. This is also standard practice for what are commonly called the Monastic Ales; Dubbels, Tripels, Quads, and Dark Strongs. All employ high attenuating Abbey, Trappist, or Belgian Strong Ale yeasts to deliver beers that have a touch of sweetness to them while ranging from 6 to 12 percent ABV.

Over the past few years, the new Belgian darling has become the sour. Although it is technically a group of somewhat related beer styles, craft breweries tend to market them as any beer containing wild yeasts and/or bacteria; here you find Brettanomyces and Saccharomyces yeasts combining with bacterial strains such as Lactobacillus and Pediococcus. While

craft breweries tended to use the kettle sour method of accelerated production originally, today many are also following the Belgian traditions of multi-year aging, storage in barrels, blending, and bottle conditioning. To that end, you can now find craft versions of Flanders Reds, Oud Bruins and Lambics, with or without fruit additions. Look also for other styles like Belgian Pale Ale, Gueuze, Bière de Garde, and Table Beer.

While proceeding through the third decade of the 21st century, we are bound to see more Belgian styles produced by your local craft breweries as once inaccessible ingredients become more attainable

for brewers, and the public gets better educated about what Belgian beers bring to the table. Their popularity is growing, and brewers enjoy the challenge of creating individualized versions of centuries-old recipes. Well over half of Alberta’s 120+ breweries make some form of Belgian style beer, so next time you visit one, see what they have available and be prepared for something wonderfully different.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

April Spirits

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT APRIL IN ALBERTA?

One day, we might be shoveling snow, and a few days later (or possibly the same day) we might be out and about in shorts showing off our pale, pasty legs! We scoured the globe to find some interesting and tasty spirits to share this month, and for those longing for a beach vacation, we have a few tequilas and rum to sate the craving for slushy cocktails – or evening sipper, along with some arak from Lebanon, a smattering of whisky, and a couple of new to us spirits from Saskatchewan!

Massaya Arak, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Arak isn’t an everyday drink in Alberta, but maybe we can start a trend with a quality bottle like Massaya. Produced from the native Lebanese Obeïdi grapes, it’s distilled twice before being macerated with green aniseed, and a third time before ageing a couple of years in clay amphorae. It’s strong and clear with herbal notes (and no added sugar), and traditionally drunk with plenty of ice or water to cut the 50 percent ABV, and watch it turn milky. Serve as an aperitif, or try with bourbon and ginger ale, or with mint and soda for a mojito!

CSPC +847755 $47-50

Romero Amber Rum, Alberta

It’s still a little mind-blowing that there is a rum distillery in Alberta, and that it’s also really good! A subtler example of amber rum and showing off a fine balance of sweeter notes, but also a firm molasses character on the mid palate finishing on a clean, woody caramel palate. A fine sipping rum, but also makes a fine alternative to bourbon in a cocktail – or drinking by the fireside.

CSPC +840670 $75-80

Black

Fox Oaked Gin, Saskatchewan

John Cote and Barb Stefanyshyn-Cote are fifth-generation farmers and alumni of Canada’s Outstanding Young Farmers program, and on their farm just outside Saskatoon they grow fruit, flowers, and grains and distil them into gin and whisky. Made with 15 botanicals, many home-grown including calendula and rhubarb, their gin ages in first-use American white oak casks to produce this stunning, smooth oaked gin – almost whisky-like in complexity. Sip and enjoy, or use in your negroni, old fashioned, or sour – you’ll be impressed!

CSPC +819741 $82-86

Black Fox SE Eleven Single Grain Whisky, Saskatchewan

Named after the location of the land, SE 11-36-06 W3, Black Fox’s single grain whisky is made from Triticale – a hybrid grain between wheat and rye, grown, distilled, and aged at Black Fox farm. It’s light bodied and smooth with tropical, soft fruit notes of mango and apricot, a little toasted almond, and vanilla fudge. At 47.9 percent ABV, it opens up beautifully with a few drops of water. I think of some whiskies as ‘winter whiskies’, where I want to sit in front of a fire cradling my glass, but I’d happily drink this Single Grain whisky all year round!

CSPC + 847805 500 mL $90-95

Bowmore Masters’ Selection, Islay, Scotland

One for the collectors – a new expression from Bowmore and a first edition single malt whisky in partnership with Aston Martin. Inspired by the Golden Ratio, it’s created from 61.8 percent 21-year Bowmore aged in first-fill sherry casks, with the remainder including Bowmore matured for more than 35 years. Try with a drop of water, it’s exceptional: sweet and rich, honey-maple aromas follow through on the palate with toffee and mocha, and a warming spice, leading to a long, smooth finish. Treat yourself or someone you love.

CSPC +1182590 $500-550

Tequila Cascahuin Plata Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

The pure depth and range of quality these days is staggering – I almost miss some of those old, sweaty/dirty examples…. but not really. Bright salinity and steely aromas with clean vegetative notes and lots of mineral. On the palate, very smooth, with a white pepper spiciness and a little bit of heat on the back end. A fine sipping tequila any day of the week.

CSPC +843709 $65-70

Tequila Cascahuin Anejo Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

Spending 14-16 months in American Oak has a few advantages for aging quality tequila, it settles the spirit a little making it smoother and mellow, but also using those older barrels like at Cascahuin doesn’t add a lot of barrel flavour either. Slightly smokey and salty on the nose with some milder, nutty characters lead into a rich and spicy palate with plenty of flavours to describe with your friends. You might just never need a bourbon ever again.

CSPC +843707 $80-85

Grand Love Anejo Tequila, Mexico

A truly delightful tequila expression with robust salinity, tropical fruits, and smokiness to complement that agave character. On the palate is where the smokiness really comes into play, and provides ample support to what is an exceptionally smooth, very much sipping tequila that has all the authentic characters you want with a mild, almost caramel finish. A very nice tequila to have for special guests.

CSPC +849357 $120-130

Shinobu 10 Year Mizunara Oak Whisky, Japan

It’s always fun to find a new whisky, and let alone something different, with an age statement, but also one offering something a little fun. The Shinobu is full flavoured with a deep smokiness, but one that evokes more coffee and nuttiness over peat character. Surprisingly floral with a great palate. Best without water, but still fine with a splash.

CSPC +825572 $120-130

Beer for an uncertain month

BY TOM FIRTH

BY DAVID NUTTALL

It’s always hard to tell what we’ll be able to do in April. My birthday is in mid April, and I’ve had birthday parties with six inches of fresh snow on the ground, and others spent chilling out on the deck in shorts.

Here in Alberta, we are always keeping an eye on the weather, and usually prepared for this uncertainty, but plans change, and one weekend’s plan to go and hike in a provincial park might turn into a rainy afternoon spent at the movies or vacuuming the living room.

So, in looking for some great beers to enjoy this month, it came to mind to focus on some tasty treats that might fit in well in any manner of days, a beer to enjoy after shovelling the walk in an April snowstorm, or a day spent prepping the garden for planting.

Fortuna Cantabeerto Agave Session Ale, Mexico

A beer-driven take on a “Cantarito” but switching out the tequila for agave juice with a bit of fruit peel, and a little bit of salt (since – of course there is a little). A crisp sessionstyle ale with some unique flavours that work out very well, but obviously a little off the beaten path. Perhaps more interesting, is its ability to evoke a sunny, beach bound day, or a taste of summer.

CSPC +863150 $5-6 (330mL)

Fahr Hefe, Alberta

One of the best, and certainly one of the tastiest hefeweizens being made around here (it won best in the world in 2020!), Jochen Fahr has made a stunner. A full flavoured, slightly cloudy wheat beer that shows off bright, pronounced citrus flavours and a touch of spiciness. Utterly and completely refreshing too. It’s widely available, but worth heading to Turner Valley to try it at the source.

CSPC +823855 $16-18

Village Misheard Lyric New England IPA, Alberta

A bit of a monster in the glass with 7 percent ABV, loads of intense hop-driven characteristics and a sweeter, almost tropical sweetness finish showing off a little nutty or caramel towards the end. Not a wallflower by any means, but a fine, if chewy brew for a cool evening.

CSPC +866773 $16-19

Apex Predator Rushing Waters Bohemian Pilsner, Alberta

Miles away from insipid or thin pilsners, Rushing Waters feels and tastes very different, and even feels a little stronger than its 4.5 percent ABV would imply. Grassy and toasted with a fine hop character and a wickedly refreshing finish too punctuated by a little herbaciousness. A standout option after skiing, snowshoeing, or a little yard work (you deserve it).

CSPC +806446 $15-18

Grizzly Paw Three Sisters Pale Ale, Alberta

There is something about a good pale ale that just hits the spot. Especially if the day is a little cooler, or if the sun is going down on a busy day. Crisp and bitter without being too “hoppy” or over the top, with a good amount of tropical fruit presence too. The brewery is a fine destination if in Canmore, and a good beer is always going to taste better when near the mountains.

CSPC +853463 $16-18

Good Mood Hibiscus + Rosehip Cream Ale, Alberta

A bit of a secret weapon, this cream ale is always a pleasant surprise. A clean, smooth and tasty cream ale with exactly the right amount of hibiscus and rosehips. This is lofty praise, as Good Mood has the flavours without adding sweetness, or herbal notes without making it just weird. A cool, weird and delicious beer I love to have on hand at home.

CSPC +833866 $16-18

Birra Dello Stretto, Sicily

A Sicilian beer – without the travel? Yes please! A completely delicious lager with a clean maltiness, and that sort of Mediterranean character that is so well suited to a day in the sun enjoying fresh seafood and hot weather. Completely smashable too, and might put you in mind for some getaways in the months to come.

CSPC +838213 $4-5 (330mL)

Village Binge Watch New Zealand Pale Ale, Alberta

A New Zealand pale ale, which might be a new term for most beer drinkers, but crisp and not too hoppy, and very much a sessionable drink too. Absolutely loving the intensity of grapefruits and a very mild resinous character throughout. Brand new and available year-round, this will be great for those summer months. Binge-worthy indeed!

CSPC +866770 $16-19

MAKING THE CASE For Being Prepared

By TOM FIRTH

here is a bit of an old chestnut around these parts that if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. Or given the blurry line as we transition from winter to spring, we don’t really have much idea at all of what to expect from nature this month.

With that in mind, my wine picks for April cover all manner of options, from big hearty reds suitable for indoor relaxing to raging bonfire, from delicate whites and reds in case the menu (or the attire) warrants something a little more suited to chillaxing. And finally, a white port which makes a deadly (and simple) cocktail, and a honey-based wine made locally, that really changes things up.

Good luck out there - and keep a jacket handy!

Nothing wrong at all with finding another steal of a deal in organic red wines, this merlot is definitely made in the European style with less than plummy or jammy fruits, but herbs, tart blackberry, and a fine earthy character. Tannins are a touch prominent, but so much the better for matching with harder cheese, beef, or even bigger pork dishes.

CSPC +848751 $17-18

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Hess Select 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast, California

Proof positive that even sub-$30 cabernets from California overdeliver on quality. Hess Select’s 2018 North Coast is working with high quality, perfectly ripe grapes that show in the glass. Cherry and cassis with lots of oak quality to soften the tannins and bring a little breathing room for the fruit and acids to let the palate do what it does best, makes you hungry for a good steak or roast. A great bottle to have on hand.

CSPC +335802 $23-25

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

Fairly closed up at first, but soon opens up with some fresh and prominent red fruit structures supported by some lovely blueberry notes and a clean, almost liquorice rootiness that gives it a fine level of complexity. The palate is where this well-priced cab really shines with generous fruits, softer tannins (for a cab!), and good balance. This would rock out with some pork sliders, Memphisstyle ribs, or a nice brisket.

CSPC +739661 $18-22

Few countries manage to nail the prospect of value in wine as Spain. El Picoteo is a Rhone-style blend (think syrah and grenache sort of blends), but showboats a little with loads of spice, bright if slightly tart red berry fruits, and a rather surprisingly long and clean finish. A wine that is the epitome of value, but also one that will complement all manner of barbecue-style meats or dishes. Though what comes to mind is freshly made, thin crust style pizzas on the bbq… CSPC +797026 $14-16

El Picoteo 2019 Organic Red, Almansa Spain

Gerard Bertrand 2020 “Change” Merlot South of France

Cathedral Cellar 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Cape, South Africa

Sokol Blosser 2018 Estate Pinot Noir

Dundee Hills, Oregon

Lean on the palate with cherry/cranberry fruits showing abundant cocoa and herbal layers too. Drier tannin structures but still generous fruits and acids really help this pinot shine, but most of all, it’s the sort of pinot that is just begging for grilled salmon dishes, or a fine prime rib or beef from the smoker. One of the first wines we saw in Alberta from Oregon, and still a classic.

CSPC +709556 $33-36

Wood 2018 Le Puits Sec Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

A pinot noir that is a step or two outside of the norm. Plenty of fruits on the blueberry and cherry spectrum but fairly floral and almost jammy characters. A dark, full-bodied pinot noir that brings a lot more presence to the palate than most. Very good and drinking exceedingly well now, it would be a showstopper with a flavourful beef dish. Worth seeking out and stocking up if you can.

CSPC +834750 $68-72

Gerard Bertrand 2020 “Change”

Sauvignon, South of France

A new, organic offering from the very well known and regarded French label of Gerard Bertrand, this sauvignon blanc is a dialed back, but not dialed down example with fresh and clean gooseberry fruits, melon, and a bit of capsicum, but little to no grassy or herbaciousness intruding. Very, very easy to enjoy and very well priced too. Try matching with shellfish or leafy greens.

CSPC +848749 $17-18

Choosing to eschew the name mead, Spirit Hills is accomplishing some pretty remarkable things with their wines. Still made via some hardworking bees, this barrel-aged flower wine (violets specifically) shows only a little of its honey-like origins. Light on the nose with gooseberry and citrus aromas, on the palate it’s a very spicy, light bodied wine with moderate oak. Very different, very interesting, and quite tasty.

CSPC +9858183 $21 (at the winery)

Fonseca NV White Port, Douro Portugal

I’ve made no bones that I am a bit of a port purist in my feelings on this incredible style of wine, but I take a bit of a break from it when it comes to white ports. These uncommon, fortified wines are best as an aperitif showing off a fresh almond nuttiness and mild dry fruits, and are quite a bit drier than other ports. Best of all, these wines make a stunning cocktail with tonic and a nice garnish (about 50-50 port and tonic).

CSPC +727347 $22-25

Lost Peak 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, Washington State

It’s good news indeed that we are seeing more wines from the Pacific Northwest in our market, and better news that we are still seeing more great cabernet sauvignons too. Lush on the nose with prominent blackberry and cherry fruits, while on the palate, it’s checking off so many boxes with generous, jammy fruits, a pleasing tartness, and great, understated tannins (for cab!). Messy ribs or briskets would be very suitable here.

CSPC +862881 $23-25

Pinot noir is one of those grapes that is perfect year-round, but also does so well in these shoulder months (is April going to be spring-like? Or all winter?). A fresh and fruit-driven pinot with blackberry leading the way, but also that expressive floral tone and spice the berry can have. A bit lighter bodied but well balanced for drinking casually, and at the table this should sing with anything from spicy pork dishes, salmon, or even great pizza.

CSPC +846133 $28-30

Flat Rock Cellars 2018 Riesling Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Being this far west of Ontario, we tend to see more BC examples of riesling than those from east, but this is exactly the sort of finely crafted riesling that shows why we need to seek out more from the Niagara Peninsula. From Twenty Mile Bench, this bottle is sleek, perfumed, and delicious. If it had any more minerality, you’d have to drink it from a stone goblet. Not bone dry with 22 grams of sugar per litre, but impeccable and fantastic.

CSPC +846129 $22-24

A serious cabernet for a fine dinner occasion, but also one that doesn’t break the bank. A cabernet that has all the nuance of fruit (oh- there is a lot of fruit), floral notes (so many!), and clean spicy/ cedar aromas. On the palate, it’s still quite young, but the current 2018 is just opening up a little with pure fruits, smooth yet full tannins, and a long finish. A fine bottle to stock up on for the cellar, but also a fine bottle to impress your friends with.

CSPC +723241 $47-$50

Flat Rock Cellars 2019 Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Evesham

Spirit Hills Whitetail Oaked Violet Flower Wine, Alberta

Hess Collection 2018 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

Summer Fresh Hummus

We’ve been adding a little spice to our snacks with two new flavours of hummus from family-owned, Toronto salad and dip producers, Summer Fresh. Vegan, gluten-free, and kosher, and made from Canadian chickpeas, Spicy Buffalo is creamy and tangy, and BBQ is lightly smoky – both perfect to jazz up your burgers and other dishes. We really enjoy the new Spicy Dill Pickle Dip too: cream cheese, sour cream, dill pickle, and a hit of chili! 227g $4 at Save On Foods, IGA, and good grocery stores.

The Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook

Lisa Steele is a fifth-generation chicken keeper and coop-to-kitchen cook, and her new book, “Over 100 Fabulous Recipes to Use Eggs in Unexpected Ways,” comes just in time as southern Alberta opens the doors for urban hens. You probably think you don’t need a cookbook to cook eggs, but cooking perfect eggs is a different matter. With a clever recipe index by number of eggs required, and helpful tips such as determining freshness and deciphering labels on egg cartons, this book could soon become a kitchen staple. Harper Horizon, $35

eat2explore

We’ve all seen all manner of subscription boxes, and they can get a little tiresome, but this is one of the coolest we’ve seen in a long time: a themed box centred around the food from a different culture or country around the world. Inside each box are a few recipes, some of the dry goods or ingredients that might be hard to find, and you simply get the fresh ingredients, and get cooking. Suitable for kids and adults, with vegan and gluten-free options too. $25 to $30 at eat2explore.com, Amazon, williams-sonoma.com.

Zwilling Enfinigy Electric Kettle

Developed in Germany and designed in Milan, this is one very classy kettle, and for tea drinkers like us, it doubles as a super-sophisticated teapot that has a tea insert to hold your leaves or bags and heats the water to exactly the temperature you want for the type of tea you’re steeping. Then it keeps it at that temperature for 30 minutes. And… there’s an an insert for preparing baby food and keeping it warm that can also be used to sterilise the bottles! $200-$275 in stores and at zwiilling.com.

Malbec Mon Amour

The Catena name is indelibly linked to wine in Argentina, and wine in Argentina is synonymous with its most famous grape - malbec. Focused entirely on this grape with plenty of insight, background, and passion, this is a love letter for one of the world’s favourite grapes from two authors uniquely positioned to tell the tale. Remarkably easy to digest, brilliantly illustrated, and wonderfully informative. Using plenty of the Catena family’s research, this is a deep dive into the terroir of the vineyards and what makes malbec in Argentina unique. By Laura Catena and Alejandro Vigil, Catapulta Editores, $32.

Air Fryer Cookbook

The hottest appliance of the decade has to be an air fryer – as revolutionary as the microwave back in the day - but what do you cook in them? We know they’re great at reheating pizza and cooking fries, but this book has 99 more recipes to spark your imagination - from soft-boiled eggs (in the shellwho knew?) to chicken tikka and satay chicken skewers, baba ganoush, roasted Brussels sprouts, muffins, flapjacks, and shortbread – a must-have for air fryer novices! By Jenny Tschiesche, Ryland Peters & Small, $30.

...with Dallas Flexhaug

BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

As a youngster, Dallas Flexhaug didn't know what she was going to be when she grew up, so when she graduated high school, she took a year of General Studies at the University of Calgary.

“I knew I liked communications and I knew I liked media,” she says. “At home before I would go to university, (and I was the only one of my friends to do this), I would get up an hour early and read both the Calgary Sun and the Calgary Herald –just because I liked it. So, as an 18/19-year old, I would spend an hour with my cereal and my coffee reading these newspapers. And I never connected the dots that maybe there was something there that I would like to do.”

Flexhaug took some communications classes and then had to decide which course to enroll in. She was tempted by the Bachelor of Communications Studies, and then discovered a two plus two program with an additional two years at SAIT to study broadcast news.

“I didn't even think about doing news, but it was always on in my house. Back in the day, my dad would always watch Barb Higgins and Darrell Janz on CTV Calgary, so news was always part of growing up for me, but it's not ever something I knew that I could go to school for,” says Flexhaug. “But I signed up for SAIT and got accepted - and I’ve never looked back.”

After graduating, she started applying for work and landed her first job in Dawson Creek, B.C. Being born and raised in Calgary, it was a big change, and she remembers her very first day saying to her co-workers that she was tired and could use a Starbucks. “Everyone in the

newsroom laughed at me and I didn't understand, but what was so funny is that they didn't have Starbucks (in Dawson Creek). They just looked at me like, here's this city girl asking for a Starbucks on her first day. So that was my introduction to television,” she laughs.

Flexhaug was thrown in at the deep end as a news reporter; she shot and edited her own stories, was a news anchor and a sports anchor, and did the radio news too. She learned a lot and then a year later, in 2005, was offered a position at Global Lethbridge.

She had a connection there because of her name - there are Flexhaugs throughout Southern Alberta. As the six o'clock news anchor, she did some reporting, and produced the show too before, after a couple of years, taking a part-time producing job in Calgary, just to get her foot in the door. She started producing newscasts on the weekend, and over a decade ago she’d write the newscasts for the anchors and produce the show she anchors now. Flexhaug has come a long way since then and celebrated her 15-year anniversary at Global Calgary this year.

So what bottle is Flexhaug saving for a special occasion?

August 4th this year is her 10-year wedding anniversary. “We got married in 2012 and we bought too many cases of sparkling wine, so we have this Roederer Estates Brut from California, and we don't drink much sparkling wine,” she explains. “We have two or three of them, and they've been sitting on our wine shelf in our basement for 10 years.”

So how come there was leftover wine? (we know there's no such expression as ‘leftover wine!’).

“We made sure we had lots, and we went through quite a bit at the wedding. It was at the Grand Theatre in Calgary, and we had family from all over the place; probably a good 150 people,” she adds. “And we had a shot ski where people did shooters off a ski. One of the cousins brought that to the wedding, so maybe that's why we had wine left because everyone was on the shot ski, but we had fun. On our wedding anniversary, we plan to pop open the wine and give it a try - and if it's still good, that's okay, and if it's bad, that's okay too.”

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