A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S A P R I L 2 02 0
Alsace Wines | Beautiful Butter | Top Chef Canada | Empanadas
MOUNT ROYAL IN CALGARY corner of 16 t h a v e . & 8 t h s t. S W 7 a m - 10 p m e v e r y d a y
Photos are for illustrative purposes only. A division of Save-On-Foods LP, a Jim Pattison business. Proudly Western Canadian Owned and Operated.
contents
Volume 8 / No. 10 / April 2020
18
departments 6 7 8
Salutes and shout outs
The latest news, openings, and happenings
Book review
Drinking with Chickens: free-range cocktails for the happiest hour
10
Off the menu
Black Sheep Bakery’s Pistachio and Sour Cherry Tart
10 Chefs’ tips and tricks Greek dishes
16
40 Etcetera…
Discovering new products
42 Open that bottle
Connie Giannoulis-Stuart and Gerry Stuart of Caesar’s Steak House
14 Meet Alberta’s Season 8 contestants
16 18
…for Top Chef Canada by Mallory Frayn
A treat to eat
Quick and easy Easter side dishes by Natalie Findlay
Whispering Cedars Ranch
Alberta lamb can be scarce, but there is a growing demand for this local product by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
20 Butter: back in our good books
Take matters into your own hands and get churning! by Leilani Olynik
ON THE COVER 24 More Alsace for Alberta!
Pizza is a comforting dish year-round. We couldn’t resist featuring this lovely pizza on the cover this month, it makes us hungry!
Pitch perfect for Easter and the bloom of spring by Mike Roberts
26 Pizza cheese
Bump up your pie to the next cheesy level by Candace Hiebert
28 Pizza pairing perfection
With a bit of planning and pairing know-how, pizza night can become an evening extravaganza! by Nicole MacKay
30 Fill your pockets…
with these Alberta-made empanadas by Lynda Sea
34 Beer festivals
A year’s selection of Alberta’s festivals (plus two in BC) by David Nuttall
36 April spirits
Gins for spring! by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
38 Making the case
…in black and white by Tom Firth April 2020 | Culinaire 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
THANK YOU Thanks very much for your emails, you have no idea how wonderful it feels to read the following:
Reasons to be hopeful
Culinaire is a stunning publication, rated as one having the highest readership in the city and with good reason—IT’S ON POINT, ON TREND with creative writers and amazing photographers. Gizella U
T
here doesn’t seem to be too many in these turbulent times; it rather feels like the world is falling apart around us, and with the situation changing by the hour, we can talk about nothing else. But we are lucky in Alberta to have stringent health and sanitation standards for our restaurants, and passionate business owners who are going over and above to make sure we can safely enjoy our food when we dine out. Please try to support your local eateries; profit margins are already miniscule, so if you’re not leaving your house, then call them or use a delivery service to have your meal brought to you—many are contactless. And maybe this is the time to take advantage of the wonderful box programs that are available to us too. You can order Alberta beef, BC
seafood, and local veggies online, most direct from the farm to your home. This is the second issue with our refreshed appearance, and we’re very pleased with our more modern, upscale look. Many thanks to J. Windsor Design for the great job on our new look, we hope you like it as much as we do and would love your feedback!
Cheers, Linda Garson
Congratulations on another fine edition of Culinaire Magazine! Everything about Culinaire Magazine reflects a commitment to being first class in all departments. I am particularly impressed with the food set-ups and photography throughout. I think Culinaire Magazine should be nominated for an award as an exceptional culinary magazine for being informative, inspiring, and of a consistently high quality that makes it a pleasure to pick up from the stands. Well done! Candy W
Flavours from all over the world are just minutes away from home. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
Italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
CALGARY Willow Park
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Daniel Bontje web@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Sky Hansen 403-993-0531 sky@culinairemagazine.ca Design J. Windsor Design Contributors Daniel Bontje, Elizabeth Chorney-Booth, Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn, Candace Hiebert, Dong Kim, Nicole MacKay, Karen Miller, David Nuttall, Leilani Olynik, Mike Roberts, Lynda Sea
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors Nicole Mackay
A passionate storyteller, exploring the world of wine one sip at a time, Nicole holds her WSET 3 Certification and is the Vice-President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. Her fervour to reveal the stories behind the labels led to the creation of her own website in 2015, SocialSips.ca. Nicole lives in Calgary with her husband and two children, and regularly adjusts perfectly good recipes to gluten-free and plant-based. Follow her wine journey on Instagram @SocialSips.
Leilani Olynik
Leilani is completely unable to follow a recipe, preferring to add her own spin on things. She has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. As the Marketing and Events Specialist at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, she shares her passion for local food by showcasing the market as a vibrant and inspiring place to build relationships with your farmer, and reconnect with your food. Wife. Mother. Bourbon enthusiast. And proud Calgarian.
403 283 8988 @verobistro 209 10th Street NW, Calgary
Mike Roberts
Mike is a Certified Sommelier and WSET Educator immersed in the Alberta beverage industry. For him, to discover wine is to discover history, civilization, culture, gastronomy, agriculture, geography, chemistry and language. You can find Mike invigilating WSET courses, hosting wine, beer, and whisky tastings, or working the floor at Co-op Wine Spirits Beer Tasting Centres. When not indulging in wine, life is all about family, the dogs and the outdoors.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
403 764 0878 @queensyyc 3927 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary NOVEL AUTHENTICITY
SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Many of the restaurants and bars we’re featuring here may be facing considerable service interruptions, and even temporary closure in the next little while. We have done our best to make sure that the information in this issue is current, but because the situation is changing by the minute, be sure to check before you visit these new openings. Please remember to wash your hands frequently, and stay home if you get sick. Stay safe and healthy! In light of the ever-changing situation, Taste of Bragg Creek has been postponed until September 25. This always-delicious, annual event at the Bragg Creek Community Centre showcases dishes and drinks from Bragg Creek’s local restaurants and vendors, who are offering specials and discounts throughout April instead. Visit tasteofbraggcreek.ca for details. Shhh…. at the back of Sho Sushi, on Calgary’s Macleod Trail, there is a Coca-Cola machine door that leads to the new speakeasy bar, Ajito (secret base of operations in Japanese), a hidden Japanese Izakaya. Don’t tell everyone! Monday–Saturday from 5:30 pm. Rain Dog Bar has opened its doors on 9th Avenue SE in Inglewood. A woodcarved terrier marks the entrance to this unassuming, cozy bar-restaurant with a wonderful feel that perfectly bridges the gap between upscale and casual. We love Chef Chris Lorenz’s fine dining menu, with its little comments and drawings that we can all relate to—those deviled duck eggs and braised onions are crazy good! And there’s an impressive beer list with ever-changing cheese and charcuterie choices too for a max of 50 lucky diners. Open 4 pm, Monday–Saturday. The Uproot Food Collective was started with a singular goal, to offer their customers high-quality food that doesn’t break the bank. Their store at 10552 114 St NW in Edmonton, does just that by promoting local businesses such as South Island Pie, Honest Dumplings, Irvings Farm Fresh, and MoJoJo Pickles— definitely worth a visit! 6 Culinaire | April 2020
Congratulations to Sunterra Market on celebrating 50 years in farming, and the 30th anniversary of their Banker’s Hall location, which has just re-opened after a major renovation. It’s doubled in size, with an expanded salad bar, Italian forno oven pizzas, pasta made from scratch, rotisserie meats, and a lot more! There’s now extra seating, wine and beer too, and still an ongoing emphasis on locally sourced food. Open Monday–Friday from 6:30 am, 9 am on Saturday. More congrats go to the winners of YYC Hot Chocolate Fest. Odyssey Coffeehouse won the ‘best hot chocolate’ award, Flower & Wolf won the ‘best spirited hot chocolate’ award, and Alforno Bakery and Café took home the ‘cup that runneth over’ award. Great job all! Congrats too to Edmonton-based cook and founder of Tomato Wheels, Moirae Choquette, who has won the Airbnb Scholarship, and the opportunity to work alongside renowned chef and owner of the Momofuku Group, David Chang, at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. We can’t wait for the launch of her products later this year!
Calgary’s Carmine’s Pizzeria has opened a new location on Palliser Drive SW. Serving up a wide variety of authentic New York Style pizzas as well as cheesy baked lasagna, juicy meatballs, mouth-watering jalapeno poppers and more. Decadent desserts await too. Open 7 days, 4–10 pm. Catering is available daily from 11 am. St. Albert is welcoming Link’s Woodfire Sausage Co. on Carnegie Drive, with its focus on high-quality, locally produced, and made-from-scratch sausages, all grilled over a wood fire. Yum! From 11 am, closed Sundays. American-based wing chain, Wing Snob, has opened their first Canadian location in Edmonton’s Brewery District, serving up chicken wings tossed in a lip-smacking choice of house-made signature sauces. Open every day 11 am to midnight, at 11988-104 Avenue. South African style curry restaurant, The Curry Bowl, has opened in Edmonton too, offering up big portions of delicious dishes such as chicken bunny chow, fish biryani, and peri-peri chicken livers. Open seven days from 11 am, at 3311 34 St NW.
B O O K R E V I E W BY K A R E N M I LLE R
Drinking with Chickens: Free-Range Cocktails for the Happiest Hour By Kate E. Richards Running Press 2020 $26
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on’t be fooled into thinking this is a joke by the hugely pretty and very captivating photo shoots with chickens front and centre. This book is appealing, even without the chickens posing with beautifully garnished drinks, the colours, the staging, the glassware… everything! Although the author does indeed live with chickens, and may have started drinking all the cocktails because of their constant squawking, she does advise against letting the chickens get close to your drinks (for your and their safety). The drinks are certainly Instagramworthy, and promoted on Richards’ popular blog. Her over abundance of enthusiasm for all things cocktail makes me think she does a lot of sampling of her very original “garden to glass” creations. Richards divides the recipes by season, and depends a lot for flavours and
garnishes on the bountiful garden she shares with the chickens. Like any good bartender she does make her own infused alcohol and syrups from scratch, but Richards agrees sometimes shortcuts will be “ok” even without a year-round garden. However, in my opinion everyone should go ahead and make a batch of Habanero Infused Tequila just in case. Although some of the cocktails are adaptions of old classics, such as the Pickled Carrot Mary on p.161 or the Salted Radish Martini on p. 53, others are very contemporary. Serving a Smoked Artichoke (p.102) or a Golden Greens Sparkler (p. 116) at your next party will certainly get a conversation started. She makes no excuses for her extraordinary garnishes, admitting they only sometimes serve a purpose (like scent) beyond their inherent beauty.
All aspects of composing a drink are considered, including making clear, shaped ice, and each recipe has a glassware suggestion for ideal taste and visual presentation. Whether making a signature cocktail for a dinner at home or trying to impress guests at a bigger event, this book is inspiring and full of ideas certain to trigger your own creativity. Drink up responsibly but in style—chickens optional! Karen is a lawyer by trade, who claims to have been on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon sooner than most, and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers.
Carriage House Inn • New Ballroom Coming Soon • www.carriagehouse.net
O F F TH E M E N U
Black Sheep’s Pistachio and Sour Cherry Tart BY LINDA GARSON | PHOTO BY DONG KIM
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e received an email from Etienne M. asking, “Do you think you could get Benjamin at the Black Sheep Bakery to share his recipe for his Sour Cherry and Pistachio Tart? It is divine but they only seem to sell it in Summer–Fall. We need to have some sooner than that!” We can’t thank Benjamin Griffin enough for sharing this most delicious recipe!
Black Sheep’s Pistachio and Sour Cherry Tart Makes 10–12 individual tarts Simple syrup 225 g sugar 2/3 cup (160 mL) water Bring the sugar and water to a light boil until all the sugar has dissolved, reserve. Pistachio pralines 200 g whole unsalted shelled pistachios 100 g sugar 4 Tbs + 1 tsp (50 mL) water 8 Culinaire | April 2020
1. Add the water and the sugar to a pot, and heat to 250º F. Off the heat, fold in the pistachios, mix with a wooden spoon. Caution: Proceed with care and use a wooden spoon as silicone cannot withstand the heat of the caramel. 2. Put the pot back on the burner and caramelize the pistachios on medium heat. Stir constantly to prevent burning the nuts or caramel. Once nuts are coated with an amber, transparent caramel, place on a silicone mat. Separate while still hot. Leave until cold. Pâte sucrée 125 g butter, room temperature 100 g icing sugar 1 egg, room temperature A few drops vanilla extract 1 pinch salt 250 g all-purpose flour In a mixer bowl, cream the butter with the paddle. Add the icing sugar and stir more. Add the egg, vanilla and salt, and stir well. Add the flour, mix until combined. Place the dough in the fridge for at least an hour.
Cherries Spread 1 pack frozen sour cherries on a parchment paper-lined baking tray. Place in the oven preheated to 150°–160° F until the cherries are dry (no more juice coming out) but still soft. This should take about an hour. Pastry cream and almond filling 10 g cornstarch 30 g sugar A few drops vanilla extract 1 egg ½ cup (125 mL) milk 120 g butter at room temperature 120 g icing sugar 25 g all-purpose flour 120 g almond flour 2 very large or 2½ medium eggs at room temperature 1. In a bowl, mix first four ingredients, whisk until lighter in colour. In a pot, heat up the milk, when simmering, pour the milk on the egg mixture and mix. 2. Return everything to the pot on medium heat. Bring to a boil, whisking continuously to prevent it sticking.
Once thickened, spread on a baking tray or a plate wrapped with plastic wrap. Wrap the pastry cream so that it is not in contact with air. Place in the fridge until completely cold. 3. In a mixer bowl, cream the butter with the paddle. Add the icing sugar and mix. Add the flour and the almond flour, and mix again. 4. Add the eggs a little at a time, mix, then add the cooled pastry cream. Mix and refrigerate. Pistachio ganache 100 g white chocolate (Griffin uses Blancor Lindt) 3 Tbs (45 mL) whipping cream 36% 20 g pure pistachio paste. Place everything in a container and microwave 2–3 minutes on low power. Mix until smooth. Tart shells and assembly 1. Crush shelled, unsalted pistachios with a rolling pin for garnish. Sieve to separate the powder from the pieces. Reserve. 2. Roll out the pâte sucrée to 2 mm thick. Line tart rings with it and place on a parchment paper lined baking tray. 3. Place one scoop of almond filling on the dough in each ring. Sprinkle with pieces of crushed pistachios and top with 5 or 6 dried cherries. Bake 12 minutes at 350° F until the dough and the almond filling are golden. Let cool at room temperature. 4. When cold, spread a thin layer of ganache on the shells avoiding the rims. Arrange the pistachio praline in a flower pattern. 5. Brush syrup on the tart rims and sprinkle pistachio powder (from the sieve) onto the syrup, making sure it sticks to the shell.
If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!
Vine & Dine Series April and May events Vine & Dine Franca’s Italian Specialties
Wednesdays April 15, 22, and 29 Italian is our most often requested cuisine, and we are coming back to Franca’s, one of Calgary’s hidden gems, for three 6-course pairing dinners! $81.75 ++
Domaine Gustave Lorentz Winemaker Dinner Mr. Chen’s Asian Brasserie
Tuesday April 21 A special, one-off premium Fine & Dine multi-course winemaker dinner with Pascal Schielé of Maison Gustave Lorentz in Alsace, France, who is taking us through his premium organic range and fascinating stories of the region at this award-winning Mission restaurant! $89.90++
Chef’s Table Kitchen Party Upstairs at Shoe & Canoe
Friday April 24 As they’re so popular, we’re continuing our new series of 6-course Chef’s Table pairing dinners upstairs in the private kitchen at Shoe & Canoe into April and May! $81.75 ++
Culinaire Culinary Treasure Hunt, Calgary
Saturday April 25 For our 6th annual culinary hunt we’ve planned 30 exciting destinations for
you to discover, and more treats for you to enjoy! Register as a team of two or solo at culinairemagazine.ca
A One-Off Special Premium Pairing Banquet T.Pot Bistro
Tuesday May 5 We know why T.Pot Bistro was voted 2018 Best Cantonese Cuisine Restaurant in Canada! So we’re coming for a special night in May where we’ll delight in a one-off pairing evening of authentic Cantonese dishes—a six course banquet! $85 ++
Vine & Dine Allora Italian
Wednesday May 6, Thursday May 14, Tuesday May 19 We loved our evenings here so much last year that we’re coming back for three nights in May! And Allora has just been voted one of Calgary’s 10 Best New Restaurants in Calgary 2020! $81.75 ++
Chef’s Table Kitchen Party Upstairs at Shoe & Canoe
Friday May 15 February and March dinners here sold out very quickly, so we’re continuing our new series of 6-course Chef’s Table pairing dinners upstairs in the private kitchen at Shoe & Canoe into May! $81.75 ++
Both our spring and autumn wine and culinary tours are completely sold out, so watch our autumn issues for details of our 2021 tours! To reserve places, arrange a private Vine & Dine event and for the latest updates on rescheduled dates, check culinairemagazine.ca/events and contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802.
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
Modern to traditional, Greece has it all! BY TOM FIRTH | PHOTOS BY DONG KIM
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reece is a nation positively brimming with a deep history and a strong cultural identity. It also has a firm grip on the imagination of travelers with iconic scenery and cuisine to die for. While plenty of variation exists in its regional dishes—whether an island visit or touring the northern stretches, Greek cuisine also transcends the seasons, making for good, wholesome, flavourful food, as well suited to a cold spring day as it is to a baking hot summer afternoon. A counterpoint to island-hopping cuisine, Yiannis in Edmonton focuses more on the mainland of Greece with more meat than seafood, and everything
is made in-house (except for their pita bread which has been made by the same Lebanese family at Mediterranean Pita Bakery since day one). According to Sous Chef Elina Komusidi, it’s the simple character of Greek food that is so appealing, being: “spicy without heat, immensely satisfying without being (too) rich.” At Yiannis, the focus is on fresh ingredients with plenty of vegetables, citrus, zesty herbs, garlic, and tangy cheese. Aside from a tip to buy the best feta cheese you can afford, Chef Komusidi points out, “There are many wonderful ingredients available locally. Alberta produces some of the best honey, lamb, beef, and wheat in the world! After that we have the Italian Centre Shop and Omonia
Foods to supply us with the ubiquitous olives, cheeses etc. that are unique to Greece.” A staple of Greek cuisine, try chef’s recipe for Grilled Lamb Chops and Lemon Potatoes! Patates Lemoni Serves 4
1–1.5 kg russet potatoes Olive oil To taste sea salt and freshly ground pepper 2 pinches oregano 1 lemon Parsley, optional for garnish 1. Preheat oven to 400˚ F. 2. Peel the potatoes and cut into quarters lengthways. Place them in a roasting pan, and drizzle with oil, seasoning with salt and pepper and add oregano. Squeeze lemon over and add small amount of water to bottom of pan. 3. Roast until golden brown and soft in the centre, 30–40 minutes. Garnish with parsley and squeeze more lemon to serve.
Grilled Lamb Chops —Paidakia Arnisia Olive oil 1 large lemon, juiced Oregano 1 kg lamb chops, around 4 To taste sea salt and freshly ground pepper Mix the oil with the lemon juice and oregano. Pour over the lamb and make sure it coats them well. Let them stand for a few minutes or refrigerate for up to two hours. Grill on charcoal or gas turning frequently until desired doneness. 10 Culinaire | April 2020
Located in Calgary’s Willow Park Village, Broken Plate was originally opened by a Greek family using old, family-style recipes while grandma cooked in the back. These days, under chef and owner Ervin Bushi, Broken Plate is very much a modern expression of Greek dining, plus, after a recent redesign, this light and airy location is closer to the Grecian seaside than a traditional taverna. Bushi is a big believer that our memories, taste, and sense of smell go hand in hand. “When I eat a delicious octopus dish—my current favourite—I always feel the seaside close by me.” When asked what he loves about Greek food, he adds, “It’s the flavour and versatility. You will never eat bland Greek food. In terms of versatility, you will never run out of ideas as a Greek chef.” For the home chef, says Bushi, “There are absolutely some traditional classic ingredients such as oregano and lemon. For me personally, the best Greek ingredient is fresh lemon because it can transform a dish, (but) simple and fresh ingredients are key. The magic is in the simplicity of a good product. A great cut of meat, fresh, plump tomatoes, a juicy lemon, a mix of aromatic spices. It is not as complicated as people believe.” For a mouthwatering Greek casserole, try Chef Bushi’s Giouvetsi with Lamb Shank and Kritharaki (orzo pasta).
Lamb Shank Giouvetsi with Kritharaki Bake Serves 4
½ cup (120 mL) olive oil 4 lamb shanks To taste salt and pepper 4 celery sticks, diced 1½ cups carrots, diced 1 clove garlic, chopped 2/3 cup (160 mL) tomato puree ¾ cup + 3 Tbs (225 mL) red wine 4 bay leaves 15 black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 1 sprig fresh rosemary 440 mL can tomatoes, diced 300 g orzo pasta 2 lemons 28 g fresh mint, chopped 28 g fresh parsley, chopped 150 g shredded kefalotyri cheese 1. Preheat the oven to 400˚ F. In a Dutch oven or a heavy bottomed pan, add ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil on medium heat. 2. Season the lamb shanks well with salt and pepper. Starting with the side where the meat is cut first, sear the meat on all sides until golden brown. Place in a 10 cm deep oven-safe dish.
3. In the same pot where you seared the shanks, add the diced celery, diced carrots, and the chopped garlic. Sauté for around 5 minutes. When the vegetables are starting to brown, add the tomato puree. Sauté for 2 more minutes and deglaze with the red wine. Cook until ⅔ of the wine has evaporated. 4. Add to the shanks wih the bay leaves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick and the rosemary. Add the diced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Add hot water to cover the shanks with 2 cms water above the shanks. Cover with the lid or foil. Braise in the oven for 2 hours. 6. When the shanks have been braising for 1 hour and 50 minutes, take another saucepan, add ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil and sauté the orzo pasta until golden brown. 7. Remove dish from oven. Add orzo pasta and mix. Remove the cinnamon stick. 8. At this point, the dish needs 2 cm of liquid above the pasta. If the liquid level of the dish is low, add boiling water. Check seasoning. Cover, and continue braising further for 30 minutes. 9. To serve, finely grate the zest of two lemons, and mix with the chopped mint and parsley. Sprinkle the dish with the lemon herb mix and kefalotyri cheese. April 2020 | Culinaire 11
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
In Edmonton’s south is another notable Greek restaurant—Koutouki South, bringing authentically styled dishes, but also the atmosphere many still associate with traditional restaurants: belly dancing, plate smashing, and classically Greek music can all be found some evenings here. Chef Collin Macleod again focuses on selection and quality ingredients telling us, “we use nothing but the freshest ingredients for our dishes, that are homemade daily.” For his favourite dishes at Koutouki, he’s quick to recommend the Koutouki Meze, which is a bit like a small plate, family-style feast meant to be shared and explored among friends or family—or the Arni Kleftico which is a slow roasted lamb shoulder. For a tip, chef Macleod has a very easy suggestion: “follow your heart, and your stomach!” so taste, taste, taste! Chef Macleod’s Moussaka is a casserole of eggplant, beef, zucchini, and potatoes in a rich béchamel sauce.
12 Culinaire | April 2020
Koutouki South Moussaka Serves 4–6
3 eggplants, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices 3 zucchini, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices 3 potatoes, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices To taste salt and pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 1 Tbs butter 450 g lean ground beef 2 onions, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp finely chopped herbs 2 Tbs dried parsley 1 egg, beaten 4 cups (1 L) milk ½ cup butter 6 Tbs all-purpose flour 1½ cups parmesan cheese, freshly grated ¼ Tbs ground nutmeg
1. Place eggplant, zucchini, and potatoes on paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let sit 30 minutes. In a pan over high heat, heat the olive oil. Fry vegetables until browned. Put on paper towels. 2. In a pan over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs butter and add the ground beef, salt and pepper to taste, onions, and garlic. When beef is browned, sprinkle with cinnamon, nutmeg, herbs and parsley. Simmer for 20 minutes. 3. For béchamel sauce, scald the milk in a medium saucepan. Melt ½ cup butter in a pan over medium heat. Whisk in flour until smooth. Lower heat; gradually pour in the hot milk, continue whisking. Add egg and continue whisking until the sauce thickens, season with salt and white pepper. 4. Add a layer of eggplant and zucchini, and all the potatoes in a deep baking dish. Add all the meat mixture, and then sprinkle ½ cup of parmesan overtop. Cover with remaining eggplant and zucchini, and sprinkle another ½ cup of cheese on top. Pour the béchamel sauce over the top, Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake for 1 hour at 350˚ F.
Calypso’s Solomos Plaki (Mediterranean-style Salmon) Serves 4–6
6 salmon fillets, skin removed 2 heads of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 3 large onions, thinly sliced 2 cans diced tomatoes, 440 mL ½ bunch of fresh parsley, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste 2 Tbs fresh dill, minced 1 Tsp chopped fresh mint 1 cup (240 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 large potatoes, cut in half and thinly sliced 3 cups (720 mL) water To taste salt and pepper
In Calgary’s northwest, one can find family owned and operated, Calypso’s Greek Taverna, and most likely Peter Kaitsas, chef and owner. It’s hard to talk about Greek cuisine without talking about lamb, and Kaitsas is justifiably proud of their lamb dishes like their padaikia, the kleftiko, and of course lamb souvlaki. But as chef laughingly shares when asked what he likes about Greek cuisine, “Everything! The blending of flavours and the satisfaction after eating an authentic Greek dish are what we think draws many to it.”
Kaitsas points out traditional ingredients that are a must-have, “good Greek olive oil, garlic, lemon, and oregano are absolute necessities.” But he’s also well aware of local food, and tries to support local producers and ingredients – the fresher the better of course. As for any additional tips, chef makes a good point, “Have fun with it! If something goes wrong, just yell “Opa!” and keep going!” The restaurant offers wild Pacific salmon as a special, but has shared a dish they make at home for family, a Solomos Plaki.
1. In a large pan mix all ingredients together except water and salmon. Pour water over mixture, stir well. Bake at 450˚F for 30–40 minutes until potatoes are cooked and mixture is simmering. 2. Remove from oven and place salmon fillets across the top of the mixtures. Once placed, spoon mixture over the fillets so they are generously covered. Shake pan to resettle the mixture base to level. Place in oven and bake until salmon fillets are cooked and flaky. Approximately 40–50 minutes. Serve with crusty bread and salad of your choice, we suggest Greek!
Get your career cooking
Kitchen and Bath Design Registration now open. Find your tech side
Meet Alberta’s Season 8 Contestants for Top Chef Canada BY MALLORY FRAYN
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op chef canada is back and season 8 is slated to feature some of Calgary’s top culinary talent. One of these contestants is Elycia Ross, chef-owner of Little Truck on the Prairie, a food truck that emphasizes locally sourced and prairie-inspired eats. For Ross, applying for the show was a life-long dream. “Ever since I was a little kid, I wanted to be on the Food Network,” she says, but it wasn’t until culinary school that she set her sights on Top Chef. “As I grew in my career, I realized that I wanted to make a name for myself,” Ross adds. Owning her own business was the first step in that journey, and she now sees Top Chef as the next opportunity to put her name and message out there. Having worked at several restaurants in Calgary, including helping to open Sidewalk Citizen Bakery’s Sunnyside location, Ross believes that her restaurant experience and hours spent practicing skills were integral in preparing for the show. However, she notes that having a firm identity may have been even more important. “I went into it knowing who I was; that was the best thing to have in my back pocket,” Ross says. For Nils Schneider, getting on Top Chef was less about exposure and more about personal challenge. “I wanted to see if I could do it,” he admits. Having worked in kitchens for most of his life,
14 Culinaire | April 2020
his experience has ranged from working under the mentorship of Season 1 alumnus, Xavier Lacaze, to helping Cam Dobranski (chef/owner of Winebar and Brasserie Kensington) open a restaurant in China. Presently, Schneider is in the kitchen at Hotel Arts’ Yellow Door Bistro, honing his skills in pastry. “I feel like I’ve done everything else I needed to do in this industry, so I wanted to take another step and see where it took me,” Schneider says of his decision to
more about myself,” Schneider says, “It pointed me in the direction of who I want to be as a chef, what my beliefs are, and how to portray myself in a kitchen.” For Ross, participating in the competition with fellow chefs also helped to challenge some of the preconceptions she held about the industry that she works in. In an environment that can foster unhealthy competition, egotism, and a feeling akin to what Ross describes as, “walking on eggshells”, her experience
“You have years and years of knowledge and that all slips right away. When the camera is in your face and you’re being asked a hundred questions, you have to stay calm and be present, while also focusing on all of the things that you are cooking.” –Nils Schneider pursue Top Chef. Despite his experience, he says that managing pressure on the show was no easy task. “You have years and years of knowledge and that all slips right away,” he says jokingly, “When the camera is in your face and you’re being asked a hundred questions, you have to stay calm and be present, while also focusing on all of the things that you are cooking.” For him, trying to strike a balance between pressure and composure was difficult, but he would recommend the experience to any chef to go and try it. “Being on Top Chef taught me a lot
on the show ran counter to that. “Everyone I met is someone that I admire and it shed a new light on collaboration,” Ross says, “The food industry is in a different place than I realized and I felt respected by the other chefs. I’ve experienced a lot of bullying in the industry and I felt like all of us were there to make a difference.” Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat
Photographs courtesy Food Network Canada
Easter side dishes STORY AND PHOTOS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
E
aster weekend is an exciting weekend. The Easter Bunny has sprinkled chocolate eggs around the house and yard. The warmer weather has started moving in, and it’s time for the first big, yummy, family gathering of the year. Want to spend more time enjoying the weekend and less time slaving over the stove? These quick and easy to prepare sides dishes will not disappoint.
Sautéed Coleslaw Serves 2
This dish pairs beautifully with corned beef, sausage or ham for an easy, quick, and healthy side dish. It easily doubles and triples to feed a crowd. 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil ½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp caraway seeds ½ cup (65 g) white onion, peeled and thinly sliced ¼ small savoy cabbage, cored and thinly sliced 1 medium carrot, peeled and grated 1 medium apple, cored and grated ¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable stock 1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 2 sprigs parsley leaves, finely chopped 1. Add oil to a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add fennel and caraway seeds and toast 1 minute. 2. Add onion and cook 5 minutes. 3. Add cabbage and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 4. Add carrot, apple, vegetable stock, and apple cider vinegar, let cook 5 minutes. 16 Culinaire | April 2020
5. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with parsley to serve. Take it into summer: no cooking required. This recipe can translate to a summer coleslaw by replacing the white onion with red onion and removing the vegetable stock. For the dressing, combine the toasted fennel and caraway seeds, olive oil and apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper, along with mayonnaise, and whisk. Add to the thinly sliced cabbage, carrot, apple, red onion and parsley, and mix well.
Sweet Potato Gratin Serves 2
This recipe can be completed with a very sharp chef’s knife, but a mandolin is easiest and produces the best results. 1 Tbs + 2 tsp (25 g) butter, softened 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 3 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine ½ cup (125 mL) cream 4 sage leaves, finely chopped 400 g (2 small) sweet potatoes 50 g cheese, grated Garnish 1½ Tbs butter, cut into small cubes ¼ cup panko or breadcrumbs 1 green onion, thinly sliced Preheat oven to 350º F. 1. Coat a 15 x 22 cm serving dish (6” x 9”)
with 2 tsp softened butter and set aside. 2. Add 1 Tbs butter to a small pot over medium heat. Add garlic, thyme, bay leaves, salt and pepper; cook 3 minutes. 3. Add wine and reduce by half, around 2 minutes. Add cream and simmer 15 minutes. Take off heat and remove thyme and bay leaves. Add sage. 4. Peel sweet potatoes and thinly slice with the mandolin. 5. Layer into dish 1/3 sweet potato, 1/3 cream mixture, and 1/3 cheese, and repeat until all are finished. Cover dish with foil and bake 30 minutes. 6. Remove foil, add breadcrumbs and cubes of butter. Bake another 10–15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and top with green onions. Note: The sweet potato filling shrinks when it cooks.
Onion Tart Serves 6
This is a great complement to brunch as well as dinner and lunch. Béchamel Sauce 2 cups (500 mL) milk ½ clove garlic, peeled and crushed 3 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs parsley 4 peppercorns ¾ tsp salt 2 Tbs butter 2 Tbs flour 1. In a medium pot, add milk, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, parsley, peppercorns and salt. Simmer 15 minutes. Strain and reserve the milk.
2. Add butter to another medium sized pot over medium heat. Allow the butter to brown then add the flour and whisk to combine. Let the butter and flour mixture cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly (this is so your béchamel sauce doesn’t taste like flour). 3. Slowly add the warm milk to the flour mixture, constantly whisking to create a smooth, thick sauce. Onion and Mushroom Filling 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil 1½ cups (100 g) mixed mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced 4 large (1 Kg) white onions, thinly sliced 1 tsp salt 1 Tbs (15 mL) brandy ¼ cup (60 mL) beef stock (can use vegetable stock) 3 Tbs (45 mL) fromage fraîche
Sautéed Coleslaw
Sweet Potato Gratin
Preheat oven to 375º F. 1. Add oil to a deep pot, over medium heat. Add mushrooms and onions and cook for 2 minutes. 2. Cover pot and let cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Add brandy and stock and cook 5 minutes. Remove from heat. 4. Add the béchamel sauce to the onion and mushroom mixture and combine. Stir in the fromage fraîche. 5. Pour into a 23 cm (9” tart) shell. Bake 25 minutes.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Onion Tart
WHISPERING CEDARS RANCH
Living the lamb life
w
BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
hile beef will likely always be the king of ranchland in Alberta, another smaller and woolier livestock animal is becoming increasingly popular, especially with young upstart farmers. Thanks to their more manageable size and a growing demand for their meat, lamb are making their mark on the Canadian prairies. For example, lamb has turned out to be an ideal choice for Janna and Ryan Greir, the couple behind Whispering Cedars Ranch, a relatively young 100-acre farm near Strathmore. While neither Greir grew up on a commercial farm, they both grew up on Vancouver Island, dreaming of a career in farming, thanks to the influence of Ryan’s rancher uncle and Janna’s time spent on her family’s hobby farm. Non-farming work brought the Greirs to Alberta and in 2014 they started raising lambs under the Whispering Cedars banner. Even though neither Ryan nor Janna had any experience with sheep, as young newbie ranchers, they quickly decided that a flock of lamb would be a much better match for them than a herd of cattle. “We’d originally talked about cattle,” Janna says. “But we picked sheep because we knew we also wanted to start a family
and wanted something smaller and a little easier to work with. Lamb are much easier to handle.” The Greirs now have 250 breeding ewes. The learning curve wasn’t too difficult and the couple learned the ropes from other local farmers who were willing to provide mentorship, some educational help from Alberta Lamb Producers, and good old trial and error. Ryan says that other sheep ranchers have been willing to provide guidance and that he’s found a lot of camaraderie in the industry. “Most of the sheep producers around here also have to work off farm to make a full living, so there are some long days involved,” Ryan says. “ So, often it’s hard to meet up with other sheep producers because they’re doing their chores or you’re doing yours. But I’ve found that they’ve always been one call away when you’re having a hard time or need to talk.” Even though lamb is not nearly as well celebrated as beef, when it comes to terrain and weather conditions, sheep do very well in Alberta. All Whispering Cedars’ sheep are the Rideau Arcott breed. Developed in the ‘80s, Rideau Arcott are the result of a Canadian cross-breeding program that aimed to create a breed with improved mothering characteristics and
a longer lambing season and larger litters. This particular breed also works well on smaller farms, making them ideal for start-up ranchers. Being small also means that distribution is less complicated. For the most part, Whispering Cedars is selling its product directly off the farm after processing their animals at a local abattoir. They have worked with distributors in the past, but have found that direct distribution has been easier and, thanks to the Internet, customers can find them fairly easily to buy either whole or half lambs or a wide variety of cuts. In this respect it’s also helped that more and more Albertans are not just embracing lamb, but also clueing into the fact that we don’t need to import lamb from New Zealand when there is plenty of local lamb being produced right here in the province. While Alberta lamb can be somewhat scarce depending on the season, there definitely is a growing demand, both for local product and for lamb in general. Older generations are getting over the trauma of childhoods spent eating overcooked mutton and younger diners are embracing all the different ways in which lamb can be prepared.
“We’ve definitely seen an increase in demand from restaurants and have had some direct sales to restaurants, but I’d love to see it on even more menus for sure,” Ryan says. “The other big factor is the diverse population in Alberta. Sheep is a major source of protein in many parts of the word and people whose backgrounds are in those countries are wanting more and more lamb.” For now, the Greirs are looking forward to raising their young family on the farm and continuing to learn more about how to best raise their lambs. With other off-farm jobs still supplementing what they make from the sheep to keep everything afloat, the goal is to find some balance and get the farm to the point where it’s enough to sustain them as a family. “We’re always learning and growing,” Ryan says. “Every year we change something to try to match efficiency with animal health. You’re always learning and growing to try to make it a healthy lifestyle for both of you and the animals.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. April 2020 | Culinaire 19
Mmm, butter! BY LEILANI OLYNIK
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et’s face it—butter is an essential ingredient in some of our most favourite things. Chocolate chip cookies, brown butter ravioli, mashed potatoes, homemade salted caramel, grilled corn on the cob, hot popcorn, butter-basted anything… Not long ago, butter had a bad rap with health professionals. Across the board, they recommended a diet made up of low fat options, which meant: “bye bye butter”. But now, with dieting trends like the Keto lifestyle, butter is a big deal again. It’s carb-free, 80% fat, and is extremely easy to source. It also happens to be one of the richest food sources of butyrate: a short-chain fat that may play a significant role in promoting brain health, according to research. Even if you’re not following the Keto20 Culinaire | April 2020
craze, and you’re just a fan of eating good quality food that has ingredients you can pronounce on its label, then you’re in luck. Butter is just cream (and salt if that’s the way you like it). So now that butter is back in our good books, you don’t have to feel so guilty for eating the thing that makes everything better.
churning butter for 51 years. Foothills Creamery is still using the same oldfashioned technique of churning butter that they started with in 1969. They take a great deal of pride in having a personal relationship with each batch of butter that is churned, with a dedicated employee standing watch, waiting until
Now that butter is back in our good books, you don’t have to feel so guilty for eating the thing that makes everything better. If you’re passionate about supporting your local community by choosing to put your purchasing power into small businesses, you might be wondering: well, where can I get my hands on Alberta butter? Thankfully, Alberta boasts a triedand-true family business that has been
the butter breaks. Every Canadiansourced batch of cream is treated with care, crafted for the highest quality, creating their signature taste. When you purchase butter from Foothills Creamery (they offer 8 different kinds), you can feel confident that you’re about to enjoy some
“Aromas of dried strawberries, cut grass and roasted meat. Hints of citronella, too. Full body, well-integrated tannins and a crisp finish. Delicious now. Why wait?” - James Suckling
It’s easy to whip up a batch of butter at home
of the best butter around. And you’re also supporting neighbours and friends, because it’s all made in Calgary. But if you’re yearning for the grass-fed, organic, bright green Jersey butter that is making its way across Canada from the butter hub that Eastern Canada is becoming, you’ll be sorely disappointed. The bitter truth about local craft butter is there really aren’t many to choose from. For a variety of reasons and an industry bogged down by regulations, butter that goes from farm to fresh-baked-bread is almost impossible to find. But does that mean you can’t have outstanding local butter? Not at all. You can still support small local businesses and have exceptional fresh butter to slather on whatever your heart desires (since recent research shows that the vitamin E found in butter actually supports heart health, and acts as an antioxidant to protect your cells). You’ll have to put in a bit more work, but in this day and age when so many people are becoming more mindful about the food they put in their bodies, from fermenting kombucha on your counter to nurturing Clementine (your sourdough starter) and everything in between, whipping up a batch of your own butter is about as easy as it gets. All you need are a few things: high quality local cream, a whipping/shaking/ churning vessel, and cheesecloth.
Hit up your local farmers’ market or organic food store to source top-notch dairy. Then, simply choose your ‘churn’. A stand mixer is probably the easiest method since you pour, cover, whip, and wait, which takes mere minutes for the butter solids and buttermilk to begin to separate. You can even make butter in a mason jar, although it will take some serious shaking. Then you just drain the buttermilk off, rinse butter in ice-cold water until the water runs clear, and use the cheesecloth to squeeze out all the excess water. Adding salt is highly recommended, but at this point, you can go wild. Try adding fresh chopped herbs, chili flakes, truffle, garlic, or honey and cinnamon for a sweet option. For a unique addition, try tonka bean, that imparts an aromatic Amaretto-style flavour without being sweet. As you may have gathered, the options really are endless. Don’t let a dearth of local options thwart your pursuit of perfect butter, just take matters into your own hands and get churning.
Wife, mother, and food lover, Leilani has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing and Events Specialist.
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WE’RE HERE TO KEEP OUR INDUSTRY GROWING STRONG. We are all doing our part to keep our families, co-workers, and communities safe. We wish to express our sincerest gratitude for the ongoing support of your local wine industry. Together, we can keep our industry growing strong. Support your local community by choosing to buy local. Wines of British Columbia is here and ready to do our share. See what the industry is doing at WineBC.com
SUPPORT YOUR COMMUNITY BY CHOOSING TO BUY LOCAL.
More Alsace for Alberta! BY MIKE ROBERTS
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ere in the wild rose province, we love our red wines. It makes sense with our long winters, short summers and blink-or-you’ll-miss-it spring and fall. We find comfort and warmth in hearty dishes, certainly not shying away from red meat consumption. Red wines fit the bill—they are hearty, texturally diverse experiences that comfort our bellies, stain our teeth, and warm our chests. It is no wonder then that Alsace—with about 95 percent of wine production being white—rarely graces our tables. In northeastern France, alongside the Rhine River near Germany, Alsace is on the leeward side of the Vosges Mountains — a rain shadow casting its spell of dryness, sunshine and warmth in what would otherwise be an impossible climate for grape cultivation. Alsace has a long and storied history in which its control has been passed between Germany and France at least five times, whilst entrenched in war for nearly 200 years. The result is a fusion of cuisine, architecture, culture, language, and most notably a uniquely developed sense of place and style in its wines. Grapes were first planted in Alsace by
24 Culinaire | April 2020
the Romans in the 2nd Century AD, and it was considered (next to Bordeaux) to have some of the world’s finest wines in the Middle Ages. Here you will find the world’s oldest wine in a barrel from 1472, and there are more than 800 wine cellars with open doors to visitors, many within the town walls available to pedestrian traffic. If you have a trip to French wine country on your mind, Alsace is a must.
There is so much sunshine in the glass you may be convinced you’ve received your dose of Vitamin D. So how is it, with its unique history and long-standing winemaking traditions, that it could be a hidden gem and unknown to many Albertans? I often see people walk by an admittedly conspicuous Alsace wine section without batting an eye. The tall, slender “flute” shaped bottles, the mishmash of German-French language, fonts, and “feel” of the labels attached to Germanic grape varieties such as gewürztraminer and riesling, make it hard for many to assume anything other than the wine is sweet.
The truth could not be further away. Alsace wines are by and large dry, expressive wines offering freshness, bang for your buck, and even long-term cellaring options for the vino infatuate but there are also plenty of off-dry, gateway wines available for neophytes or broader gatherings. Wine producers and the Vins D’Alsace consortium (CIVA) are working together to end a decades-long struggle to create simplified, consumer-friendly labelling to help us choose our wines. The best solution seems to be the legal requirement to incorporate a sweetness scale infographic on the back label of all wines. The trick here though is for innumerable (and often traditionally minded) producers to agree on a standardized scale, and when to implement it. In the meantime, Alsace should be gracing the tables of Albertans, brightening up the gloomy winter days alongside hearty, salty dishes. There is so much sunshine in the glass you may be convinced you’ve received your dose of Vitamin D. The wines are pitch perfect for Easter, the bloom of spring, and slurping at summer gatherings. The versatility is astounding.
Exploring the wines of Alsace
Cremant D’Alsace Champagne taste on a beer budget? Alsace is well known for producing sparkling wines, fashioned in the same method as champagne with regional grapes but at a very reasonable price. Think drier, more full-bodied prosecco.
Gewürztraminer Almost always dry but some have residual sugar (we can’t wait for that back label scale!). Look for wines at 13–14 percent alcohol—these will be dry with big personality. Floral, exotic, spicy, and oily with soft acidity. Great with ethnic foods and dishes with ginger. Pinot Noir Growing in plantings and production as Alsace tries to reach more wine drinkers, pinot in Alsace can vary from near rosé in body and weight to deeply text ured and matured in new oak. Checking alcohol content will help here (more alcohol, fuller bodied). Pair with pork, duck, tender red meat cuts, pizza, pasta and charcuterie boards. Muscat Always dry! Not your momma’s
moscato, although Alsatian versions have the nose of flowers, “Thrills” gum and grapes, the palate is always light, fresh,
clean and vibrant. A great little wine for hors d’oeuvres, bright salads, as a welcome drink, or on the patio.
Riesling Usually completely dry. Look for
wines at 12–13 percent ABV. Riesling is king and treated as such. These gorgeously aromatic, medium to full-bodied wines are steely, high acid, with tons of intrigue and complexity. Many can and should be aged.
Pinot Gris A specialty of Alsace. Always a chubby wine, richly textured, with residual sugar and opulence. Poached pear and honey flavours dominate. The wines are perfect with salty pork dishes, sausages, or anything with pears. My go-to for turkey dinners. Some excellent producers to seek out in Alberta: Domaine Trimbach, Hugel et Fils, Domaine Zinck, Pierre Sparr, Gustave Lorentz, Francois Baur, and Wolfberger.
Mike is an ISG Certified Sommelier, WSET Certified Educator, and holds the WSET Diploma. He is passionate about making any day extraordinary with wine and food experiences. You only live once!
Pizza cheese
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BY CANDACE HIEBERT | PHOTO BY DANIEL BONTJE
hen you think of pizza, do you imagine melting pools of cheesy goodness like we do? Usually it’s the kind that stretches into long strings when you take a bite, but here are some suggestions that will bump up your pizza or flatbread to the next level!
Mozzarella Blend
The quintessential American pizza cheese, this blend of full fat and part-skim mozzarella cheese will give you that rich, fatty flavour and mouthfeel, while also browning nicely due to the lower moisture content in the part-skim cheese. Put a twist on the classics and try making a breakfast pizza with bacon, sliced tomatoes, and mozza blend topped with a fried egg!
Gorgonzola
Think of blue cheese almost as a condiment—especially as an addition to any flatbread that has a fruit component. Use creamy Gorgonzola as the only cheese or as an accent to a mozzatopped pie, depending on how intense you want the flavour to be. Up your pizza game and crumble Gorgonzola over a pear and proscuitto flatbread, and finish with a drizzle of truffle-infused honey!
Fresh Mozzarella
Fresh mozzarella’s very high moisture content makes it flow when melted, and its rich, clean flavour is a perfect balance to other fresh ingredients—the classic margherita pizza is just fresh basil, sliced tomatoes, and fresh mozzarella. Try topping a flatbread with slices of roasted eggplant and zucchini, fresh mozzarella, and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.
Soft Chevre
Tangy goat chevre becomes gentler and less sharp when melted, but still has that distinctive farmyard flavour. We like to use it on its own, as it can get a little lost when mixed with other cheeses. Try sautéeing wild mushrooms and onions in butter before scattering them over your pizza dough, and topping with dollops of soft chevre.
26 Culinaire | April 2020
Feta
Salty, crumbly, pungent—feta is a versatile cheese that sometimes gets relegated to just topping salads. Added to a pizza after baking, it provides a lovely temperature and texture contrast. When baked with the pizza, it doesn’t really melt, but softens and browns. Classic greek flavours are ideal with feta—try topping a fresh tomato, olive, and grilled chicken pizza with a liberal handful of feta before baking.
Many thanks to Springbank Cheese who provided all these delicious cheeses for photography and sampling. Candace is passionate about food—eating it, making it, and writing about it—and is up to trying any and all new culinary experiences, especially with friends.
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anadas
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Pizza pairing perfection BY NICOLE MACKAY
izza can be as simple or as complicated as you like; that’s the magic of it and why it’s one of the most popular foods on the planet. It’s a vessel for unlimited topping combinations from the tried and true to the never been tried before. Options are endless with various crusts, your favourite protein, and a sometimesdizzying choice of cheeses. For most though, pizza signifies a meal of convenience and a meal of comfort any night of the week, which is why any white wine that’s chilled, or any red with a screw cap is often a go-to pairing. However, with a little bit of planning and food pairing know-how, a simple night of delivery or homemade pizza can become an evening extravaganza—miles away from a humdrum weeknight.
Food pairing basics
Generally speaking, the intensity of the ingredients in a dish should match the intensity of the wine. A devoted carnivore’s pizza with layers of ground beef and cured meats will complement a big, bold cabernet sauvignon from California or a South African pinotage. A veggie-inspired pizza with caramelized onions, roasted squash, or even Brussels sprouts, would shine alongside an unoaked chardonnay or a dry, fruit-forward rosé. Take it a step further and pair regional ingredients with regional wine; it’s often a winning combo. Match a pizza with Italian sausage, prosciutto, pepperoni, sun-dried tomatoes, or roasted eggplant with an Italian speciality like a negroamaro from Puglia, a cannonau from Sardegna, or even a house priced, wallet-friendly montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Pair ingredients such as chorizo, olives, red onion, roasted peppers or mushrooms with a Spanish Rioja, a tempranillo from Castilla y Leon, or a monastrell from Valencia.
A deeper dive into pairing toppings Heat
Spice is one of the most popular elements to add to pizza. Whether you introduce it by layering in pepperoni or kicking it way up with jalapeños or sriracha, it should still be balanced. Try a cheesy tomato sauce as a base to help cut through the heat, and then pair it with a chilled white wine that has a touch of sweetness such as an off-dry riesling or a moscato d’Asti. The cool temperature will help soothe the heat, while the sweetness will help bring some balance. If you opt for red wine, ignore what you think you know about drinking it at room temperature, and throw a full-bodied dry red wine in the fridge for 20 minutes. In this instance, the wine should be dry to balance the spice, so opt for a shiraz or carménère. Try: Clean Slate Mosel Riesling CSPC +757403 about $14–$16 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D’Asti CSPC +788585, $20–$22 Errazuriz Single Vineyard Carménère, CSPC +737070, $21–$24 Meat
The key to pairing effectively with meat is paying attention to tannins. Higher tannin levels (that drying sensation on your gums) are a great match to intense, meaty flavours. Cabernet sauvignon is a failsafe option, while tempranillo or malbec would also be good choices. Try: Santa Julia Organic Malbec CSPC +735417 about $15–$17 Marques de Riscal 1860 Tempranillo CSPC +716003 $17–$19 Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon CSPC +748004 $20–$24 Sweet
Agree with it or not, many people adore fruit on their pizza. Pineapple, grilled peaches, or figs—they bring sweetness that will need to be harmonized. As with spice, an off-dry option is the way to go, especially if you can find one with higher
acidity to help cleanse the palate. Try sauvignon blanc or riesling with your fruity pizza. Or perhaps even a prosecco to really step things up a notch with some bubbly. Try: Kono Sauvignon Blanc CSPC +58032 about $14–$16 Summerhill Riesling CSPC +130575 $18–$20 Astoria Treviso Prosecco DOC CSPC +818904 $21–$24 Cheese
Whether you opt for a quattro formaggio of mozzarella, gorgonzola, gouda, and gruyere, or simply love a ton of cheddar, cheese adds richness to your pizza. Too much, or the wrong selections may show itself in the form of greasiness, so cut through that grease with a wine of high acidity. Try for a medium-bodied zinfandel, a cool-climate pinot noir or a light and bright Beaujolais. Try: Cline Zinfandel CSPC +451963 $19–$21 Yealands Pinot Noir CSPC +744476 $22–$25 Louis Latour Bourgogne Gamay CSPC +755022 $27–$30
It’s a pizza party after all
Food is fun and wine is an adventure. Put them together well and you’ll often have an unforgettable meal. Following the ‘rules’ gives a guided path to the best possible experience but it can be an easy trap to fall into trying to match everything. When all you want is a glass of wine with your pizza, and you feel like winging it—then by all means strap on your wings and fly! But if tannins and mouth-feel, and complementary flavours are your game—then break out the corkscrew for a pizza party you’ll never forget. A passionate storyteller of wine and curious foodie, Nicole can often be found roaming farmers markets on the weekend or chasing after her two children. Follow her on Instagram @SocialSips. April 2020 | Culinaire 29
Fill your pockets with Albertamade empanadas BY LYNDA SEA 30 Culinaire | April 2020
C
rispy on the outside, chock-full of filling inside, empanadas are baked or fried where all manner of savoury, cheesy, and sweet fillings are encased in hot pockets of dough. The word empanada itself comes from the Spanish verb empar, which means “wrapped or coated in bread.” The original empanada is the Galician empanada from Spain which was a single, large circular or rectangular pie that was cut into individual servings. Now these portable individual-size hand pies, a staple street food of Latin American countries, are a common sight on restaurant menus, food trucks, magazine covers and in cookbooks everywhere. In Alberta, empanadas are steadily making their mark on the food scene. When she first opened Empanada Queen in Calgary 10 years ago, owner Kathy Vallejos says empanadas weren’t that easy to come by. Now, Empanada Queen is a regular at festivals and markets and a destination for Calgary and area residents, and even Edmontonians who come for her Chilean empanadas. “Empanadas are a lot more simple than people think they are,” says Vallejos. “It’s simple clean cooking that’s wrapped in beautiful dough. It’s meat and bread—homey, comfort food.”
These portable individual-size hand pies, a staple street food of Latin American countries, are a common sight on restaurant menus, food trucks, magazine covers and in cookbooks everywhere.
The filling Empanadas are traditionally filled with meat, like beef, chicken or pork, but vegan or vegetarian empanadas are gaining popularity as chefs experiment with different fillings for the versatile food item. “I try to not just hit the Latino market,” says Vallejos. “I wanted it to be for everyone. That’s why I have all those vegetarian and vegan options so we can make it for everyone. Ultimately, there is no right or wrong way to make an empanada.” It’s also through the filling ingredients that you can discern an empanada’s country of origin—in Argentina, there are raisins and eggs; in Chilean empanadas, you’ll find a slice of egg and a black olive inside, while potatoes are distinctly a Colombian thing. “The filling is the most important thing because it is the flavour you choose to eat,” says Patricia Capuzzi of Heaven Restaurant, a Venezuelan Calgary hotspot. Her 17th Avenue restaurant is known for a choice of 23 different flavours of gluten-free mini empanadas, including cheese and guava, chorizo, black bean and plantain, beef, as well as seafood, duck or lamb. Her empanada dough is made with corn flour, plantain and unprocessed sugar, all made by hand and from scratch. The dough Generally, countries in South America like Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and Peru, make the dough for their empanadas using wheat flour, while in Venezuela, El Salvador, Costa Rica and Guatemala, it’s all about corn flour. A sign of dough made well is that when cooked, it’s soft and crispy and stays together. Max Labhardt is a seasoned chef who has worked in kitchens downtown including the Marriott, Westin, and Hyatt. He’s currently the Culinary Director at Calgary Sports and Entertainment Corporation, and has been the executive chef for the Calgary Flames for the last decade. His latest venture Good Fillin is a wholesale empanada business— meaning you’re likely enjoying his empanadas at Spruce Meadows, the Petroleum Club and at Calgary airport without even realizing it. His empanadas are Venezuelan-style two-bite morsels that come in four different flavours: beef, chicken, wild mushroom, and vegetarian. The vegetarian empanada, filled with carrots, celery, onion, parsley, sweet potato, corn, and black bean, is by far Labhardt’s bestseller. He makes his dough with three types of corn flour (yellow,
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Top spots to get empanadas in Alberta Good Fillin Empanadas Bay 438, 53 Avenue SE, Calgary 403-860-9463 Heaven Artisan GF Cuisine 1013 17 Avenue SW, Calgary 403-249-3037, heavengf.com Empanada Queen 4412 Manilla Road SE, Calgary 403-235-0686, empanadaqueen.ca El Fogon Latino 8026 118 Avenue NW, Edmonton 780-756-8388, el-fogon-latino.com MyEmpanadas 11460 42 Avenue, Edmonton 780-756-1345
white, and whole grain) depending on the empanada flavour. He says, “it’s just flour and water, and salt, and a tiny bit of sugar which helps caramelization when they’re fried, and cornstarch makes it a bit flakier too.” To bake or to fry Kevin Goncalves, owner of El Fogon Latino, a Venezuelan restaurant in Edmonton out by the Coliseum, says that while Chilean style empanadas are typically baked, most empanadas are fried. At his family-run restaurant, you’ll find arepas, pupusas, cachapas and a variety of empanadas including Colombian, Argentinian, Chilean and even Salvadorian pastelitos—empanadashaped meat pastries made from corn flour. “Venezuela, Colombia, El Salvador— we all deep fry,” he laughs. “You can’t go wrong with deep-fried. I like Colombian and Venezuelan style because they’re crispy and you have a bit of sweetness 32 Culinaire | April 2020
from the corn flour, giving the contrast between sweet and salty.” Empanadas to heat and eat at home For those in the empanada business in Alberta, the newest trend now seems to be focused on making their empanadas more readily available for customers to take home and cook themselves. Labhardt says he’s finalizing packaging this year to retail his frozen empanadas in stores like Co-op and Sunterra Market. Vallejos already sells smaller versions of her empanadas frozen for customers to take home. And if you want to sample the highlights of Heaven’s gluten-free mini empanadas, Capuzzi sells convenient, frozen packs of six empanadas in five flavours that are heat-and-eat ready. Lynda Sea is a freelance writer/editor based in Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, Westjet Magazine, enRoute, Flare. You can often find her hiking in the Canadian Rockies and eating her way through Alberta.
Heaven’s Cilantro Sauce
Hot sauce, guacamole, pico de gallo and salsa are common sides for empanadas. Whether or not to sauce or dip an empanada comes down to personal preference. Heaven’s Patricia Capuzzi offers cilantro and roasted garlic mayo-based sauces for her mini empanadas and shares her recipe here. Makes 1 cup (250 mL) 1 bunch cilantro 1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise 1–2 limes, juiced 1 garlic clove Cut off the bottom of the cilantro stems, and chop. Add all the ingredients to your blender or food processor, and process until well mixed.
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Beer festivals i ALBERTA AND AREA
BY DAVID NUTTALL
t may come as surprise to many, but apart from what was initially a royal wedding celebration in Bavaria in 1810 (Oktoberfest), and a couple of other events worldwide, beer festivals as we know them today really began in the latter part of the 20th century. In Alberta, they only arrived this century, yet even though we may have come late to the game, we are starting to make up for it in numbers. Thanks to the rapidly growing number of breweries in the province, every month of the year now has some celebration going on with beer involved. These festivals come in all shapes and sizes. The big ones are the best known; running for multiple days and attracting tens of thousands of people enjoying several hundred beers. There are also large festivals that include wine and spirits as well. Even the biggest fairs, The Calgary Stampede and Edmonton’s K-Days, now have craft beer on their grounds. You’ll also find numerous neighbourhood and small-town events, usually one day affairs, along with those hosted by beer-focused restaurants and pubs, liquor stores, or sponsored by larger breweries. Beer Weeks have recently become popular as a way for a region to hold multiple events during their duration. Plus, thanks to Alberta’s large population with German heritage, you’ll find all sorts of Oktoberfests taking place in September through October. Of course, local breweries will hold their own events, many having a charitable aspect. Likewise, look for beer runs, tap takeovers, and other events as beer tourism itself has become a growing industry. A year’s selection of Alberta’s festivals (plus two in B.C.) which feature beer are listed below. Some exact dates have not been set at time of writing; in that case the month they last appeared is cited. If you enjoy beer, make sure you attend as many as you can! As always, check out websites and social media for more information.
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
34 Culinaire | April 2020
April 2020 Capitol Hill Brewfest Capitol Hill Community Centre, Calgary capitolhillcommunity.ca April 17–18, 2020 Okanagan Fest-of-Ale Penticton, B.C. festofale.ca
April and October/ November 2020 South Yeast Brewfest Acadia Recreation Complex Calgary acadiaca.com/brewfest April and October 2020 NorthYeast BrewFest Crossroads Community Association, Calgary crossroadsyyc.com/event/ northyeastbrewfest May 1–2, 2020 Calgary International Beerfest BMO Centre, Stampede Park albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals May 29–30, 2020 Edmonton Craft Beer Festival The Edmonton Expo Centre albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals June 1–7, 2020 YYC Beer Week, Calgary yycbeerweek.com June 2020 Olds Craft Beer Festival Olds Cow Palace oldsbeerfest.com
July 2–12, 2020 Calgary Stampede Stampede Park calgarystampede.com
July and September 2020 Big Rock Barn Burner Big Rock Brewery, Calgary bigrockbeer.com July 16–26, 2020 Taste of Edmonton Churchill Square tasteofedm.ca July 17–26, 2020 K-Days 2020 Edmonton EXPO Centre & Exhibition Grounds k-days.com July 2020 Sun n’ Cerveza Kensington, Calgary kensingtonyyc.com August 6–9, 2020 Taste of Calgary Eau Claire Market Plaza tasteofcalgary.com August 2020 (pending) Barley Belt Tap Tour Barley Belt, Calgary barleybeltyyc.com August 21, 2020 Barley & Smoke ENMAX Park, Calgary barleysmoke.ca
August 23, 2020 Phillip’s Brewing Brewery & The Beast—Festival of Meat Fort Calgary breweryandthebeast.com/ calgary
August 2020 Caskapalooza Craft Beer Markets in Edmonton and Calgary craftbeermarket.ca
September 2020 Oktoberfest 2020— Rotary Club of St. Albert Red Willow Place, St. Albert stalbertrotaryclub.com
September 11–12, 2020 Great Canadian Beer Festival Victoria, B.C. victoriabeersociety.com/ great-canadian-beer-fest
September 2020 Lethbridge Oktoberfest Exhibition Park oktoberfestyql.com
September 18–19, 2020 The MASHING—Calgary Stampede Grandstand albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals September 2020 Penhold Craft Beer, Wine & Spirits Festival Penhold Regional Multiplex townofpenhold.ca/p/ upcoming-events September 15–21, 2020 Canmore Uncorked Drinks Festival Downtown Canmore canmoreuncorked.com September 2020 Village Brewing Circle Carnival, Calgary circlecarnival.com September 25–26, 2020 The MASHING—Edmonton RE/MAX Field albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals September 2020 Edmonton Beer Geeks Anonymous Real Ale Festival Ritchie Community League Hall, Edmonton edmontonbeergeeksanonymous.ca September-October 2020 Multiple Events German Canadian Cultural Association (Edmonton) gcca.ca
September 2020 Oktoberfest Calgary Polo Club Ranch House & Tents oktoberfestcalgary.com September 2020 Red Deer Oktoberfest Westerner Park rdoktoberfest.ca September 2020 Medicine Hat Beer Fest Medicine Hat Lodge mhbeerfest.ca October 2020 Scarecrow Fest-Of-Ale Revolution Place Grande Prairie facebook.com/ scarecrowfestivalgp October 16–17, 2020 Calgary Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival Stampede Park BMO Centre rockymountainwine.com/ event/calgary October 2020 Lethbridge Craft Beer Festival Southern Alberta Art Gallery saag.ca October 2020 Alberta Beer Week All over Alberta alberta.beer/stories/ alberta-beer-week
November 6–7, 2020 Edmonton Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival Edmonton Convention Centre rockymountainwine.com/ event/Edmonton November 11–15, 2020 Farmfair International Northlands Edmonton EXPO Centre farmfairinternational.com November 2020 RenBREW Fest Renfrew Community Association, Calgary renfrewyyc.ca November 2020 Grape Escape Fall 2020 BMO Centre Halls D & E Stampede Park coopwinespiritsbeer.com November 2020 Banff Craft Beer Festival Cave and Basin albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals January 2021 Alberta Food and Beverage Expo Lethbridge Exhibition Park Lethbridge eatdrinkalberta.com/events/ lethbridge February 2021 The Jasper Beer & Spirits Festival Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge albertabeerfestivals.com/ festivals February 2021 Alberta Food & Beverage Expo—Medicine Hat Medicine Hat Exhibition & Stampede Park eatdrinkalberta.com/ events/medicine-hat
March 2021 Bottlescrew Bill’s 27th Annual Beerfest Bottlescrew Bill’s, Calgary bottlescrewbill.com March 2021 Grape Escape Spring 2021 BMO Centre Halls D & E Stampede Park coopwinespiritsbeer.com/ events March 2021 Alberta Food & Beverage Expo—Grande Prairie Evergreen Park eatdrinkalberta.com/events/ grande-prairie March 2021 Edmonton’s International Beerfest The Edmonton Convention Centre internationalbeerfest.com March 2021 Brewski Festival Lake Louise skilouise.com April 2021 Alberta Food & Beverage Expo—Red Deer Westerner Park Exhibition Hall eatdrinkalberta.com/events/ red-deer
April spirits BY TOM FIRTH
I
t’s spring—need we say more? We’d suggest celebrating by getting down to your nearest liquor store and indulging in a new crop of flavourful gins for sipping neat or for making your next new favourite cocktail! Collective Arts Plum and Blackthorn Gin, Canada With an ever-so-delicate hue, this gin is a pretty one from start to finish. Great aromatics with a delicate edge perhaps from the plum fruits with plenty of pepper, while the palate is refreshingly not too overpowering—yet still decidedly ginlike. A limited release for a limited time, this does rock a gin & tonic with style (Collective Arts recommends it with plum slices and a cinnamon stick) and looks great on the back bar. CSPC +825106 $52–55
No. 3 London Dry Gin, Berry Bros & Rudd, England The quintessential British gin, and awarded World’s Best Gin four times, everything about this gin exudes quality. You’re greeted with sweet grapefruit and orange peels followed by aromatic coriander, cardamom, and juniper for a beautifully balanced and spicy sip—and put away your tonic; No. 3 is a wonderful martini gin and doesn’t need anything added to make it the most enjoyable sipper.
Kokoro Gin, Cherry Blossom Liqueur Forest Spirits, Great Britain Sniff it; just sniff it and you’ll be transported to Japan just in time for the famous cherry blossom season that happens in April! It’s pretty and pink, just as you’d hope, with a sweet smelling nose that is definitely cherry but almost with a hint of almond like a Bakewell tart. 10 percent of the sale of every bottle of these gin liqueurs goes to help preserve the forests, which are close to the founders of Kokoro Gin, the Darnell family’s, hearts.
Kokoro Gin Yuzu and Ginger Liqueur Forest Spirits, Great Britain It was a delight to open this gin, with its wooden and cork stopper and delicate lemon colour, and charming and appealing label—who would have guessed it was actually English and distilled in London in the traditional London Dry method, with the addition of fresh sansho berries from the Nagano prefecture in Japan. At 20 percent ABV, this is a lovely and flavourful drink that could be the base to any number of cocktails.
Luxardo Sour Cherry Gin, Italy Proudly made in Italy (and boy, do they need all the help we can give right now!) this gin is infused with marasca cherries from Luxardo’s orchards, for which they are rightly famous. At only 199 years old, Luxardo are better known for their maraschino liqueurs, sambuca and amaretto, but add this to your list of faves, and add tonic or make into a Cherry Martinez with the addition of sweet vermouth, Luxardo maraschino and a dash of bitters.
CSPC +741108 Around $55–$60
CSPC + 823841 500 mL $38 36 Culinaire | April 2020
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Making the case in black & white
By TOM FIRTH
Looking across the many, many cases of wine that litter my office, I’m often looking for themes or common threads to organize my tastings. In the spirit of never quite knowing how April will turn out (we could be shoveling snow or mowing the lawn—maybe even on the same day), this month we look to two of the great wine grapes. Pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, but with a twist—both from British Columbia. What better way to drink local, but also get an early start on spring. Although the Calgary Edition of Chef Meets BC Grape was planned for April 23rd (now postponed to October), now, more than ever, it’s good to buy and support local whenever we can. Please do consider making your beverage selections local ones.
Township 7 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley
Coming from the Blue Terrace Vineyard, Township’s sauvignon blanc is pretty awesome. Melon and lemons dominate the nose, but finely balanced on the palate with citrus fruits and zesty acids. A very clean, modern style of the grape, perfect for lighter seafood dishes or poultry. CSPC +34355 $20–25
Evolve 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley
Fresh, summery fruits with melons, gooseberry, and a decidedly mineral quality on the nose and palate. Feels like a touch of sweetness shows up on the palate lending a minor, rock candy/green apple fruit character. Pretty tasty, and an easy wine to enjoy on the deck or patio on a nice day. CSPC +797732 $22–25
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Bench 1775 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Naramata Bench
Big lemon and lemon rind aromas on the palate with a minor influence of vanilla. On the palate, that little bit of oak aging has a big influence, cutting back the citrus and lending a little creamy, buttery tone. Pretty agreeable to drink, would handle roasted fowl, or buttery sauces. CSPC +652180 $24–27
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
38 Culinaire | April 2020
Mt. Boucherie 2017 Pinot Noir Similkameen Valley
We don’t see a lot of wines from the Similkameen Valley— let alone pinot noir, so this was a bit of a treat. Tight fruits, fresh herbs, and a touch of smoky/spicy tobacco lead the nose, while the palate is well balanced with slightly assertive tannins and zippy acids. Would pair best with earthy or protein-rich dishes with a little fat. CSPC +807653 $29–31
Quails’ Gate 2018 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley
For those that think good pinot should have a little “funky” earthiness too it, look no further that Quails’ Gate. Good fruits with a wild, almost brambly depth to the nose lead into a bigger pinot palate with pumping acids and almost chewy tannins. Duck. Duck is what you’ll want here. CSPC +585760 About $33–35
Mission Hill 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley
Most BC wine enthusiasts should be familiar with the Mission Hill juggernaut, but their attention to detail and quality winemaking should never be overlooked. This pinot sings with blueberry and raspberry fruits, and mild herbal notes on the nose. Juicy and smashable on the palate, this is a bottle that will go quickly at a get-together. CSPC +731391 $32–35
40 Knots 2017 Pinot Noir, Comox Valley
Mission Hill 2018 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley
Clos du Soleil 2017 Fumé Blanc Similkameen Valley
Calling a sauvignon blanc a fumé blanc typically means that the wine has seen a little time in a barrel tempering some of the characters of sauvignon blanc with creaminess and vanilla. Expertly balanced with fairly subtle oak and yet still bright with tropical fruits of lime and grapefruit. Try pairing with rotisserie chicken, or grilled kebabs. CSPC +636936 $22–25
JoieFARM 2016 PTG, Okanagan Valley
My first experience with Comox pinot noir (outside of competitions), and a more relaxed tasting setting, lighter in colour with aromas more in the range of strawberries and cranberries than cherry. Light and fruit driven, with a bright tartness and a zingy finish. Not a classic expression, but would be a great tipple on the deck.
A bit more of a “classic” style of sauvignon blanc, and a bit more in the New Zealand camp over most from BC. Tightly wound with almost subtle gooseberry and melon characters along with mild capsicum and olive notes. Very enjoyable, and best with grilled chicken breast, or salmon garnished with lemon.
Ok, this one is a little bit of a cheat, but it’s so damn good! A blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, the PTG stands for “Passe Tout Grains” a slightly uncommon Burgundian blend. Herb and cherry with slightly smoky, rustic aromas lead into a tightly wound, vibrant palate begging for big cuts of meat or mushroom-based dishes. Excellent.
Liquidity 2017 Pinot Noir Okanagan Falls
CedarCreek 2016 Platinum “Block 2” Single Vineyard Pinot Noir
JoieFARM 2017 “En Famille” Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley
CSPC +808503 about $65–67
CSPC +761223 $45–50
CSPC +817197 $52–55
Exactly the sort of thing that good pinot is known for. Clean, floral characters with juicy fruits, and just a tiny touch of dried herbs and vegetable leaf. On the palate, fruit, acids, and tannins are all in balance, making for a very nice glass of wine. Pair with anything really, but this might sing best with pork tenderloins or grilled veggies. CSPC +754435 About $33–35
CSPC +388629 $24–26
CedarCreek’s Platinum line of small production, high level of attention, and focus on making the best wines from these small blocks, is well appreciated. Cherry fruits with floral characters and underbrush vegetative characters dominate the nose, with plenty of nuance on the palate. Damn good, and will get better in the cellar. Match with duck confit if you can.
CSPC +823799 Around $35–37
Though the whites might get most of the attention from JoieFarm (A Noble Blend comes to mind), their reds are attentionworthy too. The excellent “En Famille” pinot noir is seriously tasty with deep floral characters, riper fruits, and a healthy amount of earthy goodness on the nose. Can cellar a bit, or drink soon to let zesty acids show through. An ideal match with salmon. April 2020 | Culinaire 39
E TC E TE R A . . . Soleterra d’Italia Charcuterie
From Modena, in Italy, Soleterra d’Italia have built a facility near Acme, producing authentic Italian, gluten and lactose-free, cooked and cured meats in Alberta with Sunterra Farms’ pork. We tried 5 salamis and really enjoyed them: smoky, garlicky Ungherese; Finocchio (fennel); sweet garlic and pepper Milano; spicy Calabrese; and peppery Toscano—and we’re supporting local producers too! 250 g salami sticks $9, 125 g packs Modena ham and prosciutto $5–$7 at Sunterra and Co-op stores.
Venetian Republic
Ninja Air Fryer
What fun we had putting the new Ninja Air Fryer through it’s paces! Of course it makes great fries and wedges—and chicken wings too— with up to 75 percent less fat than traditional frying, but it also roasts, bakes, reheats, and dehydrates. We’re all a bit more conscious about our food choices these days, and the Ninja makes for a speedy, cost-effective, and guiltfree way to enjoy our favourite fried dishes at home. It’s easy to clean too! Around $189 at Canadian Tire stores.
By Nino Zoccali, Thomas Allen & Son, $50. From the 8th to the 18th centuries, the Venetian Republic was a world power, and Zoccali has focused on the four key regions of Venice, the Veneto, the Croatian coast, and the Greek islands – all of which have their own cuisines. This beautiful book explains this history, along with photographs and wonderful recipes such as Prosecco and Snapper Risotto, Ionian Island Bruschette, Roasted Venetian Duck and Prunes, and Valpolicella Spiced Pears.
Cauliflower Power Nude sodas
Now with over a dozen flavours, Nude vodka, gin, iced tea, and tequila sodas are only 100 calories per can, with no added sugar or sweeteners, and gluten-free too. We can’t promise no hangover, but these are certainly refreshing. We tried 7 flavours—our favourites? Mixed Berry, Cranberry Raspberry, and the classic Lemon Gin Soda, all about 5 percent ABV. Gives new meaning to all sorts of phrases, so this summer spend time on the links with a couple of Nudes! $12–15 for a 6-pack.
Sunterra croissants
Sunterra have a new croissant program led by Sami Cocaj, whose family has a 300-year tradition of baking in Kosovo. After bringing his recipe and process to the operations team it was love at first bite, and Cocaj now makes enough dough, with no preservatives or additives, for 1,000 croissants every morning. He leaves it to rest for 24 hours, before adding cheese, chocolate, almonds, or leaving plain, to make his buttery, flaky croissants—delicious! 4-pack $6–$9 at all Sunterra stores. 40 Culinaire | April 2020
By Lindsay Grimes Freedman, Workman Publishing $28. Cauliflower has gained respect in recent years, and now we love it as a pizza base and the star of many appies. Freedman has taken it to another level though, with 75 easy-to-follow recipes for breakfast treats such as vanilla waffles, cinnamonpecan coffee cake, cauli tots, and more, as well as lunch and dinner recipes— and strawberry ice cream, chocolate mousse, and candied bites for dessert! A lovely, colourful little book.
Will your products be winners in 2020?
Registration is now open! Celebrating Alberta’s Best Beverages
Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers, spirits, mixers, coolers, and soft drinks for the 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards. Registration Deadline June 26 Judging Takes Place July 13–15 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca
culinairemagazine.ca/aba
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O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
...with Connie Giannoulis-Stuart and Gerry Stuart BY LINDA GARSON | PHOTO BY DONG KIM
“T
here were three of us born here, and my father always said, “I don’t want you in the restaurant. Go get an education and find your own way.” So really none of us kids got involved too much in the business,” says Connie. Her father, Gus Giannoulis, was a steak chef and, with three partners, founded Caesar’s Steak House in 1972. “I did business and economics, and then I got into oil and gas after university, and was in it for a long time,” she says. “My last job was with Alliance Pipeline; this little company was only 20 of us, and we brought it to a $1 billion revenue company. It was exciting and so much fun.” Gerry grew up with a mom who was a great baker, and was always interested in food. “My nickname was the garburater,” he laughs, “but it was when Connie and I got together that the shared interest in food, and then wine, really came about. I was in fashion retail, I worked for Henry Singer for 15 years,” he adds. By 2004, Caesar’s was just Gus, one partner, and his son. The Stuarts had started their wine journey, and while Gerry had never worked in restaurants, with an interest in wine and customer service, it was a good fit for him. But it was 2015 before Connie finally jumped in the business too. “As a family, we had a strong vision for the business,” she says, “We decided to buy our partners out, so we could continue to grow.” The Willow Park location opened in 1985. “It was not intended to be another Caesar’s, and prior to our 2012 renovation, I think you really had to like us a lot to come— it was a location that didn’t age as well as downtown did.” The central tenet has always been Alberta beef, and then only the best 10 percent of triple and prime, with a minimum aging of 35 days. “I was bugging my dad as everybody talks about open kitchens, but we’ve always had an open kitchen - people can see 90 percent of the food grilled in the middle of the dining
42 Culinaire | April 2020
rooms,” laughs Connie. “They’re not using thermometers, they’re not putting steaks in the oven, it’s the man and the steak, and the grill and the fire. And we’re constantly improving. We recently made a significant change in the menus to move away from a fixed menu. It gives customers a lot more options.” So what bottle are the Stuarts saving? In 2006, on a trip to Italy, they visited Roberto Voerzio. “It was our first trip and we’d learned about it in our classes,” says Connie. “But to be in Piemonte in October, in La Morra overlooking that concave amphitheater of vineyards, which includes his vineyard, and see just how beautiful it is, and the autumn colours and the fog rolling through, was really magical.”
“We had the wonderful privilege to do a tour and tasting with Roberto. And we actually tasted this in the barrel just before bottling,” Gerry adds. Voerzio spent time with the Stuarts in the vineyard, talking about the care he takes with his vines: one bunch per branch, three branches per plant. “This 2004 Cerequio Barolo was just finishing its two years in oak, and when it was released here we made sure we bought it. We’ve tasted a couple of them just to see the progression, but we’re holding back for a while to see how far we can take it. We do a lot of family gatherings at home. Usually there’s 12 to 14 around the table and it could be one of those little surprises. We just go with how we feel on the on the day.”
é s o R There’s a one ! for every From refreshing and light, to elegant and fruity. Here are 9 rosé’s that you are sure to love!
Chateau Ste. Roseline Prestige Rosé
Folonari Pink
Santa Margherita StilRose
AOP CÔTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE Cinsaut, Grenache & Syrah
VENEZIA IGT, ITALY Pinot Grigio
CHIARETTO DOC, ITALY Groppello
Frescobaldi Alie
Vina Esmeralda Rosé
Charles & Charles Rosé
TOSCANA IGT, ITALY Syrah & Vermentino
CATALUNYA, SPAIN Garnacha
COLUMBIA VALLEY, WA, USA Syrah
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Three Thieves Rosé
Casal Garcia Rosé
COLUMBIA VALLEY, WA, USA Syrah & Merlot
LODI, CA, USA Syrah & Merlot
VINHO VERDE, PORTUGAL Vinhão, Red Azal and Borraçal
Santa Margherita S.p.A. Via Ita Marzotto, 8 30025 Fossalta di Portogruaro (VE) Tel. +39 0421 246 111 Fax +39 0421 246 417 www.santamargherita.com info@santamargherita.com
Introducing
SANTA MARGHERITA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
from the producers of the #1 Selling Santa Margherita S.p.A. Santa Margherita S.p.A. Pinot Grigio in Canada Via Ita Marzotto, 8 Via Ita Marzotto, 8
oon ON origin
Pinot Grigio
bbiadene Prosecco Superiore G Brut Glera
Valdobbiadene
: vel
300 – 500 m (985 – 1,640 ft.) above sea level
OIL: th stones
Morainic origin, with little depth Sylvoz
1,800 - 3,500 vines per hectare (730 – 1,415 per acre)
PERIOD:
Second half of September
LEVEL:
11,50 % vol.
TURE:
8 - 10 °C (46 - 50 °F)
NDED
Medium-sized, tulip-shaped glass, narrowing at the rim
TENTIAL:
2 - 3 years
rds the rim
ICAL INFORMATION
ine is put into pressurized tanks for the prise de mousse. There for 18-20 days, with the aid of selected yeasts, at a controlled e of 14-16 °C (57-61 °F). When the desired pressure has been round 6 bars), the wine is chilled to - 4° C in order to arrest the on and encourage stabilization. The sparkling wine is then kept rigio grapes lled temperature of 8-10 °C (46-50 °F) for at least a month, in ontact with vor its natural maturation in contact with the yeasts that have r.red-wine Following vinification on the bottom ). Once the of the pressurized tank. At the end of this phase, 24-26 °C. Malolactic nd isobaric ture of 15 -bottling is carried out.
and partly in French
30025 Fossalta di Portogruaro (VE) Tel. +39 0421 246 111 Fax +39 0421 246 417 www.santamargherita.com info@santamargherita.com
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut
Cabernet Sauvignon
30025 Fossalta di Portogruaro (VE) Tel. +39 0421 246 111 Fax +39 0421 246 417 www.santamargherita.com santamargherita@santamargherita.com
Santa Margherita Wines Santamargheritawines
