Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks Magazine July/August 2016 by Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks Magazine

Exfoliating from head to toe Is it beneficial?

Natural hair movement: Is it here to stay? Electric Straightening brushes comparison:

Can they really straighten your coily hair? Hair PERFUME DYI All natural ingredients

Dry Shampoos

How they work on textured hair

Featured Small Business:

Azure Marie Designs Clothing for plus size women On the Cover Shardae Wescott Photo by: Rick Jones at R. Jones Photography rjonesphotography.smugmug.com

www.ctckmagazine.com 1

Curly Hair Salon Resource Directory

Now available online! www.CTCKMagazine.com/ Salon-Directory

2 July/August 2016

Table of Contents Departments 4 Letter from the Publisher 5 Meet Our Cover Model: Shardae Westcott 6 Contributors 8 Ask the Expert: Make-up Q&A with Shavonna Finley 10 Ask the Expert: Hair Q&A with Danielle Green 12 DIY: Coconut Shampoo 14 In The Box: BIRCHBOX 34 Horoscopes: Predictions for July/ August 2016 36 Recommended Reading: Hair Story â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Untangling The Roots Of Black Hair In America

20 Photo by: Rick Jones at R. Jones Photography | rjonesphotography.smugmug.com

FEATURES 16 Hair Perfume for Natural Hair

By Temple Thompson

18 8 Dry Shampoos for Textured Hair

By Ruth WIlson

20 Featured Small Business: Azure Marie Designs - Clothing for plus size women

24 The Benefits of Exfoliation ... And How to Choose The Right Method

By Juliette Samuel

30 The Natural Hair Movement By Julie Thomas 32 Straightening Hair Brushes: Are they worth it? By MonĂŠt Ravenell

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Letter from the Publisher

Dear Reader...

I hope this message finds you well and in a good health. Summer is here and for me living in Las Vegas, Nevada, summer came early. We have already experienced triple digits on the thermometer here in the valley and it is only July. During the summer months, hair care, skin care and make up can be fun and challenging at the same time. Depending on where you live, not all products work for all climates, but I hope this issue has something for everyone. Juliette Samuel goes in depth for us with her article about the benefits and importance of exfoliating from head to toe. Monet Ravenell does a great side by side comparison of two electric straightening brushes and gives us her research results for curlies with wavy hair to coily hair. Temple Thompson gives us an all-natural DIY recipe for hair perfume and explains why you should never spray your favorite body perfume on your hair. The natural hair movement is more than a revolution, at this point, it is very real, but do you think it’s here to stay? Julie Thomas gives us a history lesson on the natural hair movement from past to present. Our resident hair and makeup experts, Danielle Green, Owner of Radically Curly Salon and Shavonna Finley “The Queen of Beat” (I saw it with my own eyes) both have the answers to your questions. What is Olaplex? Danielle has the answer. Did you know that you can remove the color from your hair? Danielle gives us her expert opinion on color removal products from the box verses a professional stylist. Did you know that you can add Visine eye drops to your mascara if it dries out? Not so fast……….What does Shavonna think about that? If you are looking for a way to plump up your lips, without going to the doctor for injections, Shavonna has a great tip that can save you money and time. Last, but not least, I would like to introduce you to Shardae Westcott, owner of Azure Marie Designs. Shardae created her clothing line geared toward serving plus size women. Azure Marie Designs will custom design for you on a one on one basis, to cater to your unique style. Azure Marie Designs were born from a vision she had at the age of 12 as a result of being ridiculed about her weight and the clothes that she wore. She has a great story and is on a mission to broaden the options of fashionable swimwear, casual wear and formal wear that fit and look good on plus size women. I hope that you will show your love and support to our natural small business owner, Shardae Westcott. Independence Day is the 4th of July, please be safe while celebrating with family & friends. I hope that you enjoy this issue, as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Much love! Enjoy your summer my CTCK Magazine Readers!

CONTRIBUTORS: Publisher & Editor Angela Turner Angela@ctckmagazine.com Creative Director/ Graphic Designer Rebecca Walters info@rebeccawalters.com Advertising Director Colleen Turner Ads@ctckmagazine.com Writers Shavonna Finley Danielle Green Monét Ravenell Juliette Samuel Julie Thomas Temple Thompson Ruth Wilson (For more information, see page 6)

INFORMATION: Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks Published 6 times a year P.O. Box 370524 Las Vegas, NV 89137 www.ctckmagazine.com 888-601-1986 Advertise: Call toll free at 888-601-1986 or e-mail ads@ctckmagazine.com Subscriptions: To subscribe to Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks magazine, call toll free at 888-601-1986 or visit our website at www.ctckmagazine.com/Subscriptions

Angela Turner Angela Turner, Publisher

Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks Magazine

CTCKhairmag

CTCK_Magazine

CurlsTwistsCoilsandKinksMag

4 July/August 2016

July/August | Issue 9

Meet Our Cover Model

Shardae Westcott

Photo by: Rick Jones at R. Jones Photography rjonesphotography.smugmug.com

Shardae’s hair care routine On the cover, Shardae Westcott, CEO of Azure Marie Designs. By day, Shardae is a Licensed Social Worker, by night, she and Co-Designer, Dana Marie Burgest, are creating fashionable clothing for plus size women. Here is Shardae’s natural hair routine: Shardae says what works for her when trying to achieve a twist out, she uses Crème of Nature Curling Custard or OGX Coconut Cream. She separates her hair into 4 sections, applies the product generously throughout her hair and then twists into two strand twist. She will sleep in her twist and cover her hair with a silk scarf, untwist in the morning and out the door. If time is of the essence, she will do a wash and go using Aussie

Moist Shampoo, Conditioner and 3 Minute Intense Moisture Conditioner. While her hair is wet, she will separate into 4 sections and apply coconut oil then apply ECO Styling Gel throughout her strands. Her curls will last for 3 days by tying her hair with a scarf at night and in the morning reviving her curls with water and oils, using a spray bottle. When asked what her “holy grail product” was, she said ECO Styling Gel and coconut oil. Favorite shampoo: OGX Coconut Shampoo and Conditioner because it has amazing hydration. She also uses Shea Moisture Black Soap to deep condition her hair. www.ctckmagazine.com 5

Contributors  Shavonna Finley

 Danielle Green

 Monét Ravenell

 Juliette Samuel

Shavonna is a Las Vegas native and seven-year licensed aesthetician and make-up artist. Additionally, she acquired training with MAC cosmetics and is a professional skin care expert and educator in her field. Her motto “love to beat that face.” Shavonna will help you look your absolute best by creating the perfect look that caters to your individuality! www.instagram.com/ lovetobeatface

A Kansas City native and owner of Radically Curly Salon in Las Vegas, NV. Having curly hair, she continues to educate herself in the industry and always caters to clients with curly hair. Her philosophy is to embrace and rock the fabric of your hair and be “Radically Curly.” www. RadicallyCurlySalon.com

Monét Ravenell is a freelance hair and beauty writer from Los Angeles, CA. She is a contributing beauty writer for TrendiMi.com and also works as a beauty host for WeAreOnyx. com. www.Monetfreelancewriter.com

Juliette Samuel is CEO-Founder of Nyraju Skin Care. She is an esthetician, aromatherapist, author, publisher and is the fragrance editor and ethnic beauty editor for BellaOnline.com. www.nyrajuskincare.com

6 July/August 2016

 JulieThomas

 Temple Thompson

 Ruth Wilson

Julie Thomas, a native of Philadelphia, PA is the founder and editor of www.jubolee. com, where the focus is the lifestyle and culture of natural hair. It is her mission to uplift, encourage and inspire women of all backgrounds to embrace their natural beauty. She desires to find the beauty in everything and enjoy the journey of life’s precious moments. www.juboolee.com

Born and raised on the island of Bardados, I am a lover of culture and all things fun. A mom and a wife, I love my family, the outdoors, and my writing. Spending most of my teen years in New York, I’ve got a sass about me that I’ve grown to love and that voice has definately been heard in my writing. I love food, art, and music and truly enjoy all that life has offered me thus far.

Ruth Wilson loves natural hair! She is ahair video junkie who is always looking for information that will benefit curly girls and guys. She is a regular contributing writer to Curls, Twists, Coils & Kinks magazine and a friend to the Publisher who enjoys helping the publication when needed.

â&#x20AC;¦ e n i l n o t ou Check it

www.ctckmagazine.com/meet-up-directory www.ctckmagazine.com 7

Q&A Make-up

Ask the Expert

with Shavonna Finley

Clairsonic brand now sells a mini version of their original facial cleansing device called the MiaFIT. The mini handheld device cost about $189.00. Are these hand held power cleaners worth the money? – Nicole, CA

Hi Nicole! Great question! The Clarisonic brand and its products are amazing! I personally use and love the Mia. I use it 3 times a week with an exfoliator and it works wonders for refining and retexturizing the skin. It’s a great buy and worth every penny.

Pinterest had a tip for reviving dried out mascara that I recently tried. The instructions were to add Visine eye drops or saline solution for contact lenses to your mascara tube, shake and warm the tube with a blow dryer for about 30 seconds to emulsify. Have you ever tried this technique and as a professional, do you think this is safe to do? – Lilly, Rhode Island

Hi Lilly! Love this question... Yes I have tried this and it did not work for me, LOL! The formula of the mascara didn’t get back to its original consistency and the application was not the same. Yes, it is safe to do because all products being used are made for the eye. Though, if your mascara is over 3 months old, it’s time to replace it anyway... If not, give it a shot, you may like the outcome.

Sephora sells this color correcting and concealer palette that has pastel tones to warm tones. My sales representative said that it controls redness, dullness and disguises dark spots and dark circles. It looks really cool, but I am not good with make-up, especially if too many steps are required. Can you explain how those pastel colors work to correct certain skin issues. – Felicia, Denver

Hi Felicia! Great question! I am familiar with this palette and it is great for color correcting. The green and yellow, tones cancel out redness and the purple and pink correct sallowness, and orange and red correct darkness. After you color correct, then you apply your foundation, concealer, powder and whatever other finishing touches to your look.

I recently read that eye creams that contain the ingredient, hyaluronic acid, like L’Oréal Paris Rivatalift Volume Filler Eye Treatment, are also great for use as a lip plumper and crow feet plumper. It seems logical to me, but what do you think, would you recommend it? -Adrian, Philadelphia

Hi Adrian! Love this question! Yes, I’ve heard good things about Rivatalift. Hylaronic acid is one of those “magic” ingredients. It has hydrating and collagen building properties that make it great for firming and toning all parts of the skin. Use it everywhere.

Shavonna Finley is a Las Vegas-based make-up artist sfnatis@yahoo.com, 702-825-0394 www.instagram.com/lovetobeatface 8 July/August 2016

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SULFATE-FREE PRODUCTS It Really Matter?

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RECOMMENDED READING Curly Girl: The Han dbook

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IN THE BOX Subscription-base d Beauty Boxes ACCESSORIES To Accentuate Your Curls

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Q&A Hair

Ask the Expert

with Danielle Green

I recently read an article that advised against going to bed with wet strands. The article said that wet hair is very fragile, stretches easier because it is wet and can easily break. Do you recommend going to bed with wet hair?

- Shania, CA

Hello Shania, the article that you read is absolutely accurate information. Although, going to bed with wet hair once in a while won’t damage the hair just be careful. Wet hair is weaker especially naturally curly. Friction from rubbing the hair on the pillow can easily break the hair. Hydrating with coconut oil or shea butter is gentle and your hair will absorb the natural ingredients overnight. Hope this helps.

A friend of mine, who loves to have her hair colored, recently told me that her professional stylist uses a process called “Olaplex” on her hair to protect her color treated hair. What is Olaplex and what are the benefits? Is this a treatment that is administered by a professional or is it sold over the counter?

I have never heard of hair color remover until recently. Is this a professional service and what is the process?

- Dee-Dee, NY

Hi Dee-Dee, hair color extractor or hair color remover is a service that should only be done at the salon. This is an old school method of chemically stripping hair color off and could possibly leave your hair in terrible condition. The results are unpredictable and the color that remains is not even throughout the hair strand. I do not recommend hair color remover. The technical advancements for removing hair color is considered a color correction today. A skilled service provider and quality color line will leave your hair in healthy condition with a new fresh color.

How do dry shampoos work? I work out about 4 - 5 days a week and as a natural, I cleanse my hair once a week. What brand of dry shampoo would you recommend for us curly girls?

– Isabella CA

Isabella, our clients love FRESH. HAIR dry cleaner by Kevin Murphy. We carry this product at our salon and our stylists and curly girls rave about the volume and texture it gives the hair. It also eliminates excess oils from the scalp, removes unwanted odor and can be used daily. Another reason we love FRESH. HAIR for every can sold Kevin Murphy makes a financial contribution to help reduce global carbon emissions.

chemical services on all hair types. There is a two-step system done in the salon and step three is a take-home product that is given to you by your stylist. There are many ways to use Olaplex for coloring, curly perm, relaxing or deep conditioning natural hair.

– Carey TX

Hi Carey, Olaplex is a professional in-salon treatment that is not sold in stores. Olaplex is a bond multiplier that dramatically reduces breakage from

10 July/August 2016

Danielle Green is the owner of Radically Curly Salon www.RadicallyCurlySalon.com

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Do it Yourself

DIY: Coconut Shampoo

This recipe is suds free and sulfate free, which means you do not have to worry about stripping your hair of its’s natural oils or drying out your hair follicles. It will leave your hair soft, conditioned and fresh smelling. I think you will fall in love with your recipe and never pay for coconut shampoo again.

What You Need: 1 Mason jar; 1 Qt. size or an empty shampoo bottle ½ Cup Coconut Milk 2/3 Cup Unscented Castile Soap 2 Tablespoon Vegetable Glycerin 1 Tablespoon Jojoba Oil 15 – 20 Drops Essential Oil

(To the right you will see recommendations for specific hair and scalp concerns)

Steps: In your Mason jar, combine all of the ingredients except your essential oils. Gently stir to combine ingredients. Add your essential oils (15 – 20 drops) Stir gently to mix the oils well. Pour into your empty shampoo bottle for easy application to hair. If any left-over remains, I would refrigerate what is left over in the Mason jar or discard. Shampoo your hair as usual and then condition your hair.

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Essential Oil Recommendations for: Dry hair

6 drops of Lavender oil 5 drops Peppermint Oil 6 drops Geranium Oil

Oily hair

5 drops Rosemary 5 drops Peppermint Oil 5 drops Cypress Oil 5 drops Basil Oil

Dry scalp

5 drops Rosemary Oil 5 drops Clary Sage Oil 5 drops Tee Tree Oil 5 drops Lemon Lavender Oil

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In The Box

Beauty Subscriptions

BIRCHBOX by Ruth Wilson

irchbox is a New York City-based online monthly subscription service that sends its subscribers a box of four to five selected samples of makeup, or other beauty related products. Founded in 2010 by two Harvard Business School graduates, Hayley Barna and Katia Beauchamp. Birchbox has over 1 million subscribers and in July 2014 opened its first store in New York’s Soho neighborhood.

subscription based delivery to your door beauty boxes. For just $10.00 a month or $110.00 a year, you will receive your personalized beauty box which will include 5 product samples. In your Birchbox you will receive sample products from haircare, skincare to makeup. What makes Birchbox different is that the products are tailored to your specific beauty needs and they don’t just cater to women, they also have a Birchbox Man.

Katia and Hayley envisioned a way for customers to easily and efficiently try, learn about, and purchase beauty products online. They felt that shopping for products was frustrating, inefficient, and confusing. They wanted to find a way for people to try products without buying them all. Birchbox was born and they call it a monthly delivery of surprise and delight.

Once you subscribe, you will be asked to fill out your beauty profile that will ask you questions about your hair, skin type and skin concerns. When you visit their website, you will find Birchbox exclusives, limited edition boxes, Ideas & Inspiration, how to groom a beard and so much more. This “In the Box” featured company also makes a great gift from $30.00 - $60.00 for 3 to 6 months. Give them a try and don’t forget to check out their website at www.birchbox.com

BIRCHBOX works a little bit differently than other 14 July/August 2016

ATTENTION: Potential Advertisers... Promote your natural hair care products!

We will have frequent, contests, promotions, giveaways and product reviews or if your company is having a giveaway contest, let us know, we would love to feature you ... If you are willing to donate your hair care product that is specific to curly/textured hair for contests, promotions, product reviews and or giveaways, contact us.

Send your email request to giveaways@ctckmagazine.com along with your contact/company information if you are interested in participating or wish to be featured. www.ctckmagazine.com 15

uch like our bodies, hair has its own natural

scent. This undeniable aroma is uniquely mapped to just you. But if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re anything like me, a girl on the go, that signature scent tends to change as days and weeks go by.

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re

building muscle in Pilates or just making your way around in the summer heat, your head sweats and that natural scent can change into something funky. Depending on your hair style of choice, locs, braids or even natural curls, you may not have the luxury of washing your hair every day.

HAIR 16 July/August 2016

PERFUME

FOR NATURAL HAIR

So hair perfumes have come to the rescue.

Now that that crisis has been averted, let’s talk beauty.

Now if you’re thinking of a perfectly marketed bottle with pretty packaging, this is not quite it. Like most DIY projects that have taken social media and home kitchens by storm, hairs perfumes too are all the craze. These easy put together recipes are great for giving your hair a quick refresh in between maintenance days or adding an extra boost to clean tresses. Now if you’re thinking, why not just hit my scalp with my go-to Dolce and Gabbana scent, let me stop you right there. Seriously girl, put the bottle down. Body perfumes were in no way designed for our hair. They are loaded with alcohol and can dry your hair out, stripping it of the necessary nutrients and oils it needs to stay healthy and strong.

One of the best benefits I have found when doing research on hair perfumes are that all the ingredients are words I can pronounce. Even if you are using a store bought, hair-intended perfume, some of the ingredients can be quite intimidating. DIYs gives you the peace of mind knowing exactly what is going on your hair and inevitably, your body. Other than buying the spray bottle, most of the ingredients needed, I already had at home. Now, if you’re not an oil geek like I am, searching for essential oils is a great time to put your nose to the test and see what scents really resonate with you. Peppermint, lavender or even frankincense maybe? Most recipes require a 3-oil blend (top, middle and base note) so I was mindful to pick oils that would do well mixed together and nourish my hair. Now that you’ve got your scents picked out, a base and distilled water are all you need. For your base, vodka or jojoba oil are options. I usually use the vodka to make a mojito and opt for the oil instead. Another great feature of making this perfume on my own is that I save time and money. The cost to make this is a fraction compared to what I would pay if I bought something similar in the store and I have plenty of oil let to make another. The best part is that it is truly custom to what I like and I can mix up scents depending on my mood, any time I want. Something light for summer and earthier during the fall months. A great win-win.

Try DIY: If you want to try this recipe as a DIY – Here is a hair perfume recipe you can try. • 45 drops of Essential Oils (Recommended: 14 drops Top notes, 22 drops Middle notes, 9 drops Base Notes)

Normally I co-wash my hair, but recently I found that using hair perfumes has almost benefited my hair in the same way a protective style has. For a few days or even a week, I am not putting my hair through the trauma of a full treatment. It’s a nice, well-needed break in my opinion. My hair is stronger, breaks less and is overall healthy. Now before you start tossing all your shampoo and conditioner out the window and getting all Breaking Bad in your kitchen, know that hair perfumes are not a substitute but a great addition to your beauty regimen. Just one more way to stay beautiful inside and out and kicking toxic products to the curb and hopping on the natural band wagon. So before you head out the door, put a couple spritz on your mane and take on the day.

• 2 tsp Carrier (Vodka, Witch Hazel, Aloe Vera Gel, or Jojoba Oil)

• 3.5 OZ. Distilled Water or Rose Water

Temple Thompson Writer

www.ctckmagazine.com 17

Dry Shampoo & Textured Hair R

ecently at my son’s graduation on an early Saturday morning, I asked my girlfriend if she had any gum in her handbag. She had the gum and she also pulled out an aerosol can of Batiste dry shampoo and could not stop raving about it. I have a confession, when I first heard about dry shampoo years ago, my first thought was “that’s gross”! I just could not imagine spraying anything from an aerosol can onto my already dirty hair but I never really took the time to research the product to form a real opinion, so I thought now might be a great time. Let’s start with the science of Batiste dry shampoo in particular. This dry shampoo is starch based and requires no water. Formulated to boost body to dull lifeless hair, target excess oil and grease at the roots. For naturals with wavy hair to curly hair, removing excess oils might be something that you would occasionally need. On the other hand, if you have textured hair like mine, which is coily/ kinky, removing oil is not something we worry about. As you already know, curly strands take longer for oils to travel down the shaft, which is why most of us add oils to our hair as part of

Batiste Dry Shampoo $5.99 - $8.99

Alterna Cleanse Extend Translucent Dry Shampoo (Made of organic bamboo extract)

Big Sexy Hair Volumizing Dry Shampoo $17.95

Garnier Fructis Volume Extend Dry Shampoo $14.95

our regimen. With that being said, there have also been times when products produce too much oil and it just lays on your hair, rather than absorb. In this case, dry shampoo might come in handy. Other benefits of dry shampoo for naturals are the array of fragrances available, which will make your hair smell fresh if you work out frequently or if you just need to go another day or two before you wash your hair. Batiste is also available with a hint of color. Professional stylist say that they also recommend it to their customers who have recently had their hair colored, as they recommend going a few days before washing or co washing your hair, to keep your new color rich. Some reviewers complain of white residue because of the clay base or starch base of the dry shampoos. I have listed a few brands of dry shampoos that professional stylist swear by and claim do not leave a residue.

Kevin Murphy Fresh Hair Dry Cleaning Spray Shampoo $16.00

Matrix Design L’Oréal Pulse Clean Ever Style Energizing Dry Remix Instant Dry Shampoo Shampoo $14.99 $7.99

$22.00

If you have not tried dry shampoo yet give one a try and let us know how it worked for you. Summer is a great time to keep a can nearby especially for all of you beach goers and swimmers.

Ruth Wilson Writer

18 July/August 2016

Pureology Fresh Approach Dry Shampoo $24.00

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SPOTLIGHT ON:

Photos by: Rick Jones at R. Jones Photography rjonesphotography.smugmug.com

Shardae Westcott

CEO of Azure Marie Designs

eet Shardae Wescott, LSW and CEO of Azure Marie Designs. Azure Marie Designs is a clothing line geared toward serving plus size women. When Shardae isn’t designing women’s clothing, she is working with men and women of color who are impacted by violence in their community. Shardae is a Social Worker by day, and a designer by night. She holds a Master’s Degree in Social Work from the University of Pennsylvania, currently holding a position at Hahnemann University Hospital in Philadelphia as a Community Intervention Specialist. Her job assist victims of violence with alleviating trauma symptoms caused by community violence. She was born and raised in North Philadelphia and has overcome much adversity. Shardae works in this position as a way to give back to

20 July/August 2016

the North Philadelphia community that she came from.” As a young adult, she was taken under the wings of her Godmother who helped her develop her skills as a seamstress and designer. She has been a designer for 6 years, and says she could not imagine fashion not being a part of her life as it is today. Growing up, as the youngest of five, raised by a single mother, who was the sole provider of the household. Shardae said that her mother could not afford to purchase the latest fashion trends and shoes. As a result she was often ridiculed about her clothing and her weight. During these years is the time she knew that she wanted to do something in fashion.

hen asked how did it begin for you? Shardae said that the fashion life really started for me when I joined a modeling program for plus size models in Philadelphia. I was trained professionally in runway by two amazing coaches of Fashion Forever Entertainment Jessica Porter and Arthur Burgest III. After participating in numerous fashion events as an aspiring model, the fire was lit inside of me. I looked at clothing designed by some amazing designers and I thought to myself “I think I can make this outfit.” I knew it was time to develop the clothing line that I dreamed of. My very first design made its grand entrance into the fashion industry in February 2013. Since that time I connected with a close friend, Dana “Marie” Burgest, of Self-Conscious Designs. Dana joined me and helped grow the vision even though it was never her intention to become a designer. During Dana’s journey, her husband, Arthur Burgest III, who is a runway coach and fashion coordinator was putting together a fashion event for at-risk foster children and was looking for a designer. Dana stepped up and created a line for the children participating in the event. She feels that fashion has a way of making people think more of themselves, and wanted to create clothing that made people feel good. Since then, she has participated as a designer in “Philly Fashion Week, 17 Days of Fashion in Philadelphia, and other fashion events within Philadelphia and New York. Dana is more of the behind the scenes co-designer and seamstress, but she is extremely talented, creative, and I could not imagine designing a clothing line without her. The name Azure Marie is a combination of myself and my Co-Designer Dana. We thought our middle names put together was authentic, and a representation of what we dreamed our clothing line would be- unique, classy, and fierce! Since then we have collaborated on designing collections for fashions shows and photo shoots to promote our brand. We have worked with aspiring and signed plus sized models who have an interest in our designs, believe in our mission and understand the vision for our line. Because of their love for fashion, Shardae and Dana wanted to create something that was a manifestation of who they really are. Shardae said, we believe we have the ability to create designs that will speak for you when you walk into a room. We find that there is beauty in seeing designs in our minds, and having the talent to make it come to life with fabric. We also created Azure Marie Designs to inspire women to love themselves, and to use fashion as a healthy form of self-expression. We consult with you about your image and fashion vision, and we will custom design clothing just for you. We work with women of all shapes and sizes, and feel strongly that there is no project too great to accomplish. When asked what has been your most memorable experience since becoming a designer? Shardae said, I actually have had two experiences that I will never forget for as long as I live. My first memorable experience was when I first started out. I was trying to find what was most needed in the industry. I found that fashionable bathing suits for our plus size women are in high demand. One day I got a phone call from my dear friend Juliet, and she told me about her attorney friend who was in need of a bathing suit for a photo shoot. This was three days before the shoot was to take place. I put together two bathing suits for this prestigious attorney for the “Philly Sexy Singles” event. This event shines a light on successful singles in Philadelphia. Danyl, the attorney, was nominated and chosen to be featured in the Philadelphia Daily News as a Sexy Single, and she wore my bathing suit with cover up design. Danyl was the first plus size featured Philly Sexy Single in 10 years. I was honored and truly excited. www.ctckmagazine.com 21

hen in April 2015, I was asked to donate two outfits to the Full Figured Fashion Weeks’ Curves for a Cure Fundraiser Event. For me this was huge! I was so excited about this opportunity. I stayed up late and woke up early in pursuit of making the perfect bathing suits and cover-ups. This was a dream come true. I was able to mingle with fellow aspiring models, other high fashion designers, amazing photographers, and the women who are responsible for FFFW; Ms. Gwen Devoe and Ms. Sharon Quinn. This gave me some insight on how far I could take my vision. I was, and still am truly inspired by this event. Major thanks to the FFFW team for the opportunity, special thanks to Designer Liaison Curby Ingram for believing in Azure Marie Designs vision, and to my favorite plus size photographer Rick Jones for capturing the moments. When asked have you ever felt like giving up and what inspires you to keep going? Shardae said, there have been times when she felt like giving up on her business aspirations, “my thoughts about how short life is kept me motivated.” Curiosity of how far I could really take my business also keeps me chasing my dreams. I believe so deeply in my pursuit, that I can’t give up. Looking at all that I have overcome, I can’t turn back now. I am a mother before everything, and I am motivated by my three children. My creativity comes from my children. I find inspiration in their laughter, our heritage, and my desire to see them in fashionable but appropriate clothing.

with major fashion industry photographers and have participated in numerous fashion events. Since late 2015 they have stepped away from fashion events and have focused on working directly with clients.

From designing for small fashion shows in Philadelphia to participating in High-Fashion events in New Jersey and New York. Azure Marie Designs has had the opportunity to collaborate

Shardae and Dana, CTCK Magazine thanks your for granting us this interview and the opportunity to tell your story and we wish you all the success in the world.

Ultimately the goal of Azure Marie Designs is to open a couture dress making shop for proms, weddings, and formal events. Shardae is all about giving back to her community and has future plans of providing sewing classes for inner city youth impacted by community violence who are at-risk within the next year. Azure Marie Designs promotes self-love with a touch of class. They believe strongly that curvy women can still be attractive with their clothes on. Currently they have a variety of collections. They custom design and sell formal gowns, swim wear for women, African print dresses, jackets/blazers, pants suits, or anything our customers may envision can be custom designed.

Shardae is all about giving back to her community and has future plans of providing sewing classes for inner city youth impacted by community violence who are at-risk within the next year.

22 July/August 2016

Anyone interested in having a custom Azure Marie Design can contact Shardae or Dana directly by visiting their website at: http:// azuremariedesigns.com Like them on Facebook: AzureMarieDesigns And follow them on Instagram: AzureMarie_1

www.ctckmagazine.com 23

The Benefits Of

...And How To Choose The Right Method 24 July/August 2016

hen we think of black skin care for women, typically its hyperpigmentation or skin discoloration issues that top the list. Did you know that exfoliation can help with those challenges? Your skin naturally exfoliates every 28-40 days. But, regardless of the body part, your body can only shed so much of the dead skin build up on its own. Exfoliation then becomes the key to maintaining healthy skin. And, exfoliation helps the dead skin cells shed quicker than normal.

Why would you exfoliate? There are several reasons why you exfoliate your body. When you exfoliate your body: • • • •

it it it it

evens out your skin tone and texture helps fight the signs of aging prevents blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts can minimize dark spots

You are taught to exfoliate your face because if you don’t your skin will become dull, gray and ashy. Dull gray and ashy will accentuate the signs of aging in your complexion. But what about the other parts of your body? Your lips, your chest, your feet, your scalp and yes even your hands need to be exfoliated on a regular basis.

Why would you need to exfoliate your lips? Did you know that your lips have dead skin cell build up? Yes! This is one of the reasons why you see dryness and chapping. That’s why your lipstick or lip gloss appears flaky. Dehydration is another.

Why would you exfoliate your chest? Your chest is home to hundreds of pores and can produce as much oil as your face and back. The area is known as your décolleté and technically should be treated as part of your entire facial skin care regimen. If your chest isn’t exfoliated at least once a week, a buildup of film will appear and your skin will have the same dull ashy look as your face. Not to mention that old skin look, you know the one where your chest begins to look as though it has folds.

Why would you exfoliate your scalp? Your scalp is constantly shedding dead skin cells. It often shows up as dandruff. Styling products, relaxers, hair oils and butters can lead to build up, making your hair look dull, limp and hard to style. And yes, even natural hair can experience these same challenges. Exfoliating your scalp helps in removing debris, opens up clogged follicles and gets rid of excess oil and dead skin cells. When this is done, you’ll increase circulation in your scalp and this promotes hair growth.

Why would you exfoliate your back? For some of you, your back might be hard to reach but it’s important to exfoliate it on a regular basis. Your back can get clogged with oil and dead skin cells which can lead to pimples and acne. One way of getting to your back is to use a brush, whether it’s for dry brushing or a massage type brush.

Why would you exfoliate your feet? The skin on your feet is thicker than the rest of your body and can be hard to keep hydrated. In order to lock in moisture, it’s important to keep your feet exfoliated by removing the dead skin cells. You know it as the white skin build up that if not treated, you’ll look as though you’re walking around with an extra sole. The top of our feet will look like an elephants with all the lines and wrinkles. Pedicure to the rescue.

www.ctckmagazine.com 25

“

There are several methods of exfoliation that can be used on one particular concern or condition.

Hands, why would you exfoliate your hands? Yes, dead skin cells that build up on your hands, will cause them to look dry and dull. When your hands are so ashy, it can sometimes look like you’re wearing a pair of white gloves. This means taking care of your nail beds as well and NOT by having the skin “cut” away with sharp objects. Massage them with a little oil.

Are You Choosing The Right Exfoliation Method For Your Skin?

How Do You Choose The Right Exfoliation Method For Black Skin?

Warm weather has arrived and you want your skin to be at its best appearance. So that means, the more you show of your bronzed and beautiful self, the more care you’ll need to provide to your skin.

There are several methods of exfoliation that can be used on one particular concern or condition. Learning about the differences between the types of exfoliation is necessary before you choose one or have one performed on your beautiful black skin by a skin therapist.

Believe it or not, exfoliating treatments and products are used to accomplish this and for various skin conditions. Skin discoloration, uneven skin tone, acne, fine lines, dry skin, wrinkles and even skin tightening, benefit from a good exfoliation treatment or product.

26 July/August 2016

”

You’ve got surface exfoliants, superficial mechanical exfoliation and superficial chemical exfoliation.

Surface Exfoliants Surface Exfoliants can be purchased and used in conjunction with other methods as part of your at-home maintenance program. These products might contain ingredients with jojoba wax beads, crushed herbs, ground nuts or crystals. With any exfoliation treatment, caution should be taken with the amount of pressure used when exfoliating. Although the ingredients listed above are natural, over stimulation can actually cause minor wounds in your skin. Enzymes are surface exfoliants that are typically derived from fruit acids found in pineapples (bromelain) and papaya (papain). Depending on their strengths, they can be used for home treatments or spa treatments. Enzymes are known to break up dead skin cells on the surface of your skin and depending on the treatment they are often combined with hydroxy acids. This type of treatment is better left to the professional during a spa treatment.

Superficial Mechanical Exfoliation

Superficial Chemical Exfoliation

Superficial Mechanical Exfoliation is when microdermabrasion and dermaplaning is used.

Superficial Chemical Exfoliation is what you know as chemical peels. They fall under the category of Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy acids (BHAs).

Microdermabrasion is when a rough surfaced instrument is used to remove dead skin cells and polish your skin during the performance of microdermabrasion. Although this procedure is performed by a skin care professional, it is not always the best option when caring for African American Skin. Because this treatment is used by creating suction through a loophole, the suction can cause harm especially to sensitive and inflamed skin. Dermaplaning is when a skin care professional is removing dead skin cells and fine hairs from your face with a scalpel. While this procedure might seem straightforward, it is not a simple procedure to perform and the legalities of whether or not an esthetician should perform it, is controversial. The controversy comes in the use of a medical instrument, the scalpel. Each state must determine whether or not it’s legal for an esthetician to use this procedure as an exfoliation process.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) include glycolic, lactic, malice and citric acids. AHAs dissolve proteins that hold dead skin cells to each other. The common Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) used in peeling agents is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is known for its use for oily and acneprone skin.

Remember … Exfoliation treatments and products are a great way to care for black skin and remove dead skin cells. Exfoliating your “entire” body will give you smooth, soft, sensual skin and make it pleasurable to touch for you and your significant other If you are going to be exposed to the sun, only a surface exfoliant should be used. Don’t forget your sunscreen! This will cut the risk of side effects that occur when exposing your skin to the sun after a microdermabrasion or chemical peel treatment.

Dedicated To Your Beauty Juliette Samuel Esthetician/Author/Publisher Nyraju Skin Care

www.ctckmagazine.com 27

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oday, natural hair is intensely growing more and more popular. Many women of all backgrounds and facets are returning to natural and embracing their curly manes. One would call this epidemic, the Natural Hair Movement. This, however, is not the first time natural hair has made a huge impact within society, or has triggered the start of a revolution.

30 July/August 2016

The

Movement The first natural hair movement began back in the 1960s during the Civil Rights Movement. It was during this time where Afros were being celebrated and being accepted as a visual aesthetic to identify as being Black. Angela Davis, Human Rights Activist and member of the Black Panthers, was the trendsetter with making the Afro “famous”.

During the 1970s is when the Afro was depicted as appearing negative, as it appeared on women and men apart of activist groups in trouble with law enforcement. Angela Davis shared in an article that photographs of herself, particularly displayed on FBI posters, painted a negative perception of the Afro to others and affected the lives of other black women who wore their hair natural. The Afro hairstyle became an easy target for arrests and interrogations, which led to many women disguising their natural hair under wigs. The movement slowly began to phase out in the 1980s. Within this decade the Jheri Curl and other permed styles were becoming popular which caused the Natural Hair Movement to dissipate. Throughout the years, natural hair has been embraced by a number of women within the entertainment industry, however it was not at all celebrated by the masses. Music Artists such as

“

The Natural Hair Movement today is more about self-acceptance and self-love.

”

Jill Scott, Erykah Badu, and India Arie are women I remember growing up in my teenage years who fearlessly rocked their natural tresses. The Natural Hair Movement was not as prevalent in the early 2000s, however has since made a strong comeback within the past few years.

Celebrities today who are unashamed to represent the Natural Hair Movement are Solange Knowles, Janelle Monáe, Traci Ellis Ross, Lupita Nyong’o, Viola Davis, and Amandla Stenberg to name a few. These women are in the forefront with breaking barriers in the industry when it comes to the views of society’s norms on beauty. Amandla and Solange are also known taking a stance and voicing their opinions when it comes to cultural appropriation and natural hair. With the natural hair movement fading in and out over a number of decades, I believe it is now here to stay. Many women, even outside of African Americans, are embracing their natural hair textures or are gravitating to Ethnic hairstyles. The Natural Hair Movement today is more about selfacceptance and self-love. Women are returning to natural in a way to embrace who they are and to be themselves unapologetically. Going through your natural hair journey will also led you to a journey through self-discovery; which relates back to the initial movement and identifying with one’s true self. There are other reasons of course for women to return natural, such as opting for healthier hair care and avoiding harsh chemicals. However, no matter what your reasoning for deciding to return natural, you will always be led on the road to self-acceptance, self-love, and self-discovery.

Julie Thomas Writer

www.ctckmagazine.com 31

Straightening Hair Brushes:

Are they worth it?

As a curly girl, it’s inevitable that you will go through a ton of hair products. Admit it, you’ve probably got enough products to open your very own beauty supply store. It’s can be frustrating. But at some point, you realize that it’s just all a part of the curly girl journey. But here’s the thing, we’ve got to start being choosy with our money. After all, the more money we have left over, we can invest in products that truly work. Right now, hair-straightening brushes are all the rage. It can be tiresome trying to figure, which are best, or if they are even good for you at all. But not to worry, we’ve got you covered. Check out our latest reviews on the top two hair straightening brushes on the market.

What Are Hair Straightening Brush? Before we get into our review, you may be wondering, what the heck is a hair straightening brush? Hair straightening brushes are an, all-in-one electric tool that allows you to smooth and straighten hair via heat. It eliminates the use of standardized tools like flat irons. You simply guide the tool through your hair, like you would a brush. We know what you’re thinking. But I thought naturalistas weren’t supposed to use brushes. Well, that all depends on who you ask. The people who rave about hair straightening brushes claim that there are three main benefits to hair straightening brushes: it’s easy to use, safe for the hair and saves you time.

of the first on the market. There is no comparison when it comes to its sleek design. It’s very unique and much sturdier compared to other brands. We were really impressed with how quickly this brush heats up. It heats up in less than in a minute! Although, we give brownie points for its thoughtfulness on construction, we have to eliminate points for it’s maximum heat output. For those with thicker curls, you may find that a maximum temperature of 365 is just simply not enough. However, those with a looser texture, may find the temperature to be just right. We were able to easily glide the brush through dry hair. However, we noticed that those with thicker hair textures didn’t get bone straight hair, even with multiple applications. Those on the looser curl end found that they experienced beautiful straightening results. This is also one of the most expensive brushes on the market. So it makes it hard to justify purchasing at this rate.

Pros: • • • • • •

Easy to use Only brush that meets Canadian safety approval Superior technological design Made with high quality ceramic Saves you time Heats up in less than a minute

Cons:

• It’s pricey • Doesn’t get as hot as competitors • Hair will not get bone straight with certain textures

Review Two: Simply Straight Straightening Brush Price: $39.99

Review One: Dafni Hair Brush Straightener Price: $249.99 First up on the list is the Dafni Hair Brush Straightener. It’s actually a pioneer of the electric brush trend, as it was one

32 July/August 2016

Next up we have the Simply Straight Straightening Brush. It’s the much more affordable cousin of electric hairbrushes. The first thing we notice is that it’s nowhere near constructed as nicely as the Dafni brush, which is understandable. Companies will often skimp on construction, when they are trying to lower retail value. There is also a much longer heat up time, ranging between 5 to 10 minutes. This is still a relatively small amount of time, but when you’re in a hurry, those minutes really add up! A feature that we were particularly impressed by was the 60-minute auto shut

off feature. Remember, safety first ladies. Just like Dafni, we found this product simple and easy to use. Something to note about both hairbrushes. They both are made with high quality ceramic material, which is much safer for the hair. Where Simply Straight truly shines is its heat temperature. It goes up to a staggering 450 degrees. For those with thicker curls, you’ll definitely enjoy the higher temperatures for sure. And ladies, you simply cannot beat the price on this. It’s just $39.99!

Pros: • • • •

60 minute auto shut off Affordable Easy to use High heat

Cons:

• Hair will not get bone straight with certain textures • Longer heat up time (5-10 minutes)

Overall Consensus The bottom line curlies is that while these hair-straightening brushes will in fact straighten your hair, you shouldn’t expect miracles. For those who want to go through the straightening process with one fell swoop, we’d recommend these brushes for hair type 2-3a. 3b-4c girls you can use these tools as well. However, if you want a bone straight look, you will ultimately need to go back over it with a hot comb or flat iron, as these brushes do not do an adequate job of hitting the roots of thicker curl patterns. There is no way you will experience bone straight hair in just one pass. Sorry dolls. But if you want to eliminate using a blow dryer with attachment, then this may be just the product for you! All in all, this is a nice tool to have in your arsenal. But ultimately, you will find that you may need to add some flat ironing for finishing. And the search continues…

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www.ctckmagazine.com 33

Astrology

Horoscopes Predictions for July/August 2016

Aries (21 March – 19 April )

This is an excellent time to create a budget or financial plan or to rid yourself of bad habits that undermine your sense of personal power. All that is deeply personal comes into focus now. Mid July your focus may shift towards your work environment, like looking for a new job; improving your health or dealing with a health issue and daily habits. In August, you will have a greater need than usual for contact and exchange with an intimate partner. If single, you would be more willing than normal to enter into a committed relationship. Favorable Dates: July 4, 5, 13, 14, 22, 23 Aug 2, 5, 11, 14, 20, and 23 Favorable Colors: Green & White

Taurus (20 April – 20 May)

You actively seek out new learning experiences and have a strong desire to set out on new adventures in this period, however big or small. Others find you easy to be around, even inspiring and energizing, and are attracted to your assertiveness and courage. You’ll likely have more energy and drive for your hobbies and just having more of a good time, wanting to get out more with people instead of staying at home. Special attention to and from a partner is in focus and flattery works to your advantage. Give to a partner exactly what you would like to receive just now. Favorable Dates: July 2, 9, 11, 18, 20, 27 Aug 2, 3, 11, 12, 20, and 21 34 July/August 2016

Favorable Colors: White & Purple

Gemini (21 May – 20 June)

This is a period in which you seek a higher meaning to your life and seek out new experiences that take you beyond the mundane details of day-to-day life. Anything that broadens your experiences attracts now. A lack of superficiality finds you straight to the point, interested in the truth of things. You are more in touch with the deeper and even primal elements of your own personality. Watch for a possible ending, something coming to fruition in your life, as well as heightened emotions and sensitivity in August. Favorable Dates: July 1, 4, 10, 13, 19, 22 Aug 2, 4, 11, 13, 20, and 22 Favorable Colors: Yellow & Blue

Cancer (21 June – 22 July)

Cancer (21 June – 22 July) – You are especially enthusiastic and more bold than usual. You would be looking to expand your activities and may find that you have a lot of energy for new professions, higher studies and travel. Smoothing out your close personal relationships would be a priority. If single, you are more willing than normal to enter into a committed relationship. You would be adaptable when it comes to your affections–very willing to compromise, negotiate, and make peace. Negative potentials include being excessively opinionated or getting easily fired up over differences in points of view.

Favorable Dates: July 3, 6, 12, 15, 21, 24 Aug 1, 7, 10, 16, 19, and 25 Favorable Colors: Yellow & White

Leo (23 July – 22 August)

Leo (23 July – 22 August) - This is an excellent cycle in which to do some financial planning and strategizing. Research is also highly favoured. Your inclination during this cycle is to think about the big picture rather than the mundane circumstances. It’s also easier for you to approach sensitive, intimate and personal matters with rationality and logic. A deep and intimate connection made now could be revitalizing and even healing. You are more inclined to want to smooth over differences in a partnership concerning the sharing of power, intimacy matters, finances, and other emotionally-charged topics. Favorable Dates: July 4, 5, 13, 14, 22, 23 Aug 2, 8, 11, 17, 20, and 26 Favorable Colors: Red & Blue

Virgo (23 August – 22 September)

Your mind is focused on selfimprovement and self-mastery skills. Partnership matters continue to figure strongly in this period. A relationship can reach a new level of understanding. Physical energy can be on the low side in July, but emotional energy runs high. Good feelings could continue through the month of August. You may be presented with a new way to make money. August may be a good

month with lots of communications and pleasantries. All that is deeply personal comes into focus now and intimate matters become especially important. Favorable Dates: July 1, 2, 10, 11, 19, 20 Aug 1, 7, 10, 16, 19, and 25 Favorable Colors: Yellow & Purple

when to act will last throughout the period. Favorable Dates: uly 5, 9, 14, 18, 23, 27 Aug 4, 5, 13, 14, 22, and 23 Favorable Colors: Red & Yellow

Libra (23 September – 22 October)

There would be good news on the money front and you’re likely to find comfort in order rather than chaos. Health matters might dominate your thoughts in July, but not in a negative way. Streamlining your lifestyle in a healthier way or even just resolving to visit the gym on a regular basis will certainly appeal. A period of restlessness could affect your mood in August, changing your routine will work wonders. Your finances will need careful attention throughout but with help you can ensure you end the period in a much stronger position. Favorable Dates: July 2, 4, 11, 13, 20, 22 Aug 5, 6, 14, 15, 23, and 24 Favorable Colors: Blue & Yellow

This is a great time to open up conversations about topics that normally might cause waves, such as those revolving around the sharing of power, intimacy, and finances. Dealing with new sentiments and needs stirs up a huge desire for activity. Emotional issues take precedence–there is simply no pussyfooting around when it comes to dealing with the feelings. You are more inclined to flatter and charm others during this cycle. One-to-one relating appeals to you more than group activities or more casual connections. Favorable Dates: July 6, 9, 15, 18, 24, 27 Aug 3, 6, 12, 15, 21, and 24 Favorable Colors: Red & White

Scorpio (23 October – 21 November)

The period is likely to start with a burst of fiery energy, where you’ll feel able to take on various new projects or ventures, but less likely to see them through. July is looking like an excellent month to travel, as the planets indicate that you’ll visit somewhere that you haven’t been before, while August will probably introduce one or two unwelcome hiccups to your love life. Lucrative and innovative influences won’t last long, although you’re run of good luck and uncanny knack of knowing

Sagittarius (22 November – 21 December)

Capricorn (22 December – 19 January)

This period is all about perspective and organization. You will find that the energy of the planets enables you to put your emotional feelings into perspective. This will help you to resolve a major anxiety about one relationship in particular. A new interest could lead to a new romance in August, but whether you’re single or attached it will be a sizzling month! By the time the period is over, you will have a whole new and much more positive outlook on your life, and in particular in relation to any romantic involvements.

Favorable Dates: July 2, 9, 11, 18, 20, 27 Aug 2, 3, 11, 12, 20, and 21 Favorable Colors: Purple & Yellow

Aquarius (20 January – 18 February)

The month of July indicates a period of inactivity and indecisiveness that will swiftly be followed by some firm and life changing resolutions. There may be a dent in your confidence, Taking on a new creative interest will give you an amazing boost. Not only will you generate a sense of pride, which will have excellent knock on effects in terms of work or school, but you would also be likely to meet some interesting people too. Make sure you reserve enough time to enjoy yourself and recharge your batteries. Go for it. Favorable Dates: July 3, 7, 12, 16, 21, 25 Aug 1, 3, 10, 12, 19, and 21 Favorable Colors: White & Yellow

Pisces (19 February – 20 March)

The months ahead could start with some hiccups in your love life as you become a little dismissive. Romantic developments are likely to become a lot more demanding. Keep your energy levels high to cope with the intensity of it all. Distractions in the form of other people’s problems are likely to hold you back. Try not to get so involved that you lose sight of your own goals, especially in terms of work or studies. Don’t be dismayed by any setbacks or disappointments. Keep plugging away and be patient as the end of the period will make it all worthwhile. Favorable Dates: July 2, 5, 11, 14, 20, 23 Aug 1, 8, 10, 17, 19, and 26 Favorable Colors: Blue & Green

Astrology by Manish Kumar Arora K.P. Astrologer, Numerologist, Tarot Card Reader & Vastu Consultant facebook.com/manishastroconsultant manish@manishastrologer.com www.ctckmagazine.com 35 © Sad Monkey Design. Watercolor Texture. Photo sourced from Lost and Taken.