SEPTEMBER 2012
f
ood
p12 - It’s always Friday at TGIF p44 - Oh Ahana
c s
ommunity and Fun p8 - Daegu Photo Biennale p10 - Daegu Opera Festival p22 - Nature in the City p26 - Slice and Dice p38 - DFFL - Fall League Begins p54 - the Hunt for Freedom p82 - Far from the Truth
pecial reports p16 - The Amazing Agriculture p20 - Dalseong Dilemma p28 - False Propaganda p40 - Olympic Wrap-up p42 - Behind the Decks
T U
ravel
p46 - the other Mongolia p70 - Farm, Surf and Fireworks
seful information p24 - A Cell Phone Plan for You p50 - Daegu Medical Tourism p69 - How to Order Food p76 - Bar and Club guide p80 - Hotel Guide
m
aps
p60 - Subway Map p61 - Daegu Culture Theatres p62 - Downtown Daegu Map p64 - Kyungpook & EXCO MAP p65 - Suseong-gu Map p66 - Suseong Lake Map p68 - Seomun Market Map
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EDITOR’S NOTES AND CREDITS
Editor’s Notes Hi Daegu, Fall is just around the corner. Enjoy the last moments of summer with good friends and happy memories. This month we are introducing a new member to the Compass team, Kevin Coughlin. Kevin has taken the challenge of steering the Compass in a new direction. We are very excited to have him on our team. This month you’ll find plenty of great articles to help you with getting to know Daegu a bit better. Plus an exciting aricle about North Korea’s propoganda tour from Donald Kirk. As always, we’d like to thank you the reader and our sponsors for helping make the Compass into Daegu’s best information guide. If you’d like to contribute, than email me at: info@daegucompass.com. Yuri Lee and the Daegu Compass team Managing Editor
Yuri Lee
Publisher
Miyong Ha
Creative Director
Scott McLaughlin
Assistant Editor
Kevin Coughlin
Graphic Designers
Scott McLaughlin
Translation Director
Bosun Kim
Sales & PR Yuri Lee 대구시 중구 포정동 6-6 2F
fax: 053.765.5697 tel: 070-7514-2709 mob: 010-8858-2709 email: yuri@daegucompass.com
Translators Bosun Kim, Hyunju Kim, Hyunseung Lee, Jaeheon Lee, Jinil Kim, Kyung Hee, Mina Park, Miyong Ha, Siron Jang, Soojeong Han, Suhyun Lee, Sun Lee, the Jaguar, Yujeong Lee Writers and Photographers Asif Quadri, Brad Piepkorn, Brian M. Van Hise, Chanel Barlow, Craig R. Gardner, Daniel Jackson, Don Kirk, Dyren Billups-Adams, Emma Thompson, Fuzz Chucas, Hyerin, Ivan Broida, Jennifer Chaussee, Jeremy Taylor, Jodi Nicolosi, Kevin Coughlin, Laurent Sewell, Scott McLaughlin, urbanEVENTS, Vacquer Richard, Will Thomas The Daegu Compass is published and printed by the Daegu Compass. The views expressed by the writers in the Daegu Compass do not reflect the opinions of the company. Maps, the Daegu Compass logo, and original designs are all property of the Daegu Compass. If you have any questions, please email: info@daegucompass.com. Thanks for reading. ©2011-2012 by the Daegu Compass
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DAEGU PHOTO BIENNALE
Photography is Magic! is a direct and celebratory exclamation of photography's enduring and sometimes playful capacity for experimentation. The title of the main exhibition of the 2012 Daegu Photo Biennale embodies the essential presence of alchemy, sleight of hand, coincidence, and transformation in contemporary art photography. Check out more info on our website: http://www.daeguphoto.com - English is available as well. There are twenty-nine international artists represented in this exhibition. Each offers their unique perspective on the possibilities of independent contemporary art photography at this exciting juncture in the medium’s history. At a time when most of our daily experiences of photography are screen-based, these artists reflect upon the physical and material aspects of photography intended for our appreciation in galleries and museums. Their work encourages us to both remember and rethink the unique and authentic properties of photography. Collectively, these artists answer with great imagination and innovation to the wholesale questioning of what continues and what is brilliantly new about contemporary photography. Main Exhibition Artists Cuny Janssen Cuny Janssen’s 2009-2010 representations of the natural landscape of Yoshino in Japan are utterly sublime and emphatic in their crystalline affirmation of how we can still know and experience the essence of a subject through its photographic representation. We are, of course, increasingly conscious of the extent of crafting and decision-making that constitute photography as contemporary art but the enduring alchemy of the photographic – the conflation of conscious and unconscious processes, luck, chance and preconception – is still magnificently in operation here. Cuny Janssen, Near the Takagiyama Lookout, Yoshino, 2009. Analogue color print, 70 x 80 cm
Daniel Gordon Daniel Gordon’s photographs make you think about making. The torn edges and rough adhesion of hundreds of colour images found through Google and printed in Gordon’s studio is messy and neurotic. The qualities of Gordon’s photographs oscillate between the seduction of the Google image material and their luscious colouration as-well-as our attraction to the artist’s obviously intensive and time-consuming work, with the abhorrence we might feel towards the resulting monsters into which Gordon’s photography breathes life. Daniel Gordon, Shadow Eye Portrait, 2012. Chromogenic print, 61 x 50.8 cm. Courtesy of the artist and Wallspace, New York
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DAEGU PHOTO BIENNALE Sebastiaan Bremer Sebastiaan Bremer’s series Schoener Goetterfunken(2010-2011) keeps our perception and attention caught between the photographic print and the hand-rendered circular abstractions he has drawn on each print’s surface. Bremer’s psychedelic draughtsmanship overlays his family photographs with an emotive, psychologically-driven narrative, using the formal device of his pointillist working on the surface of the print to create visualizations of unique and personal memories. Large Schoener Goetterfunken IV, ‘This glass to him, the good spirit’ (Dieses Glas dem guten Geist) - 2010
Paul Graham Paul Graham’s 2011 Films series is an autobiographical eulogy to the now defunct film stocks with which he created his key bodies of work over the past almost thirty years. His gorgeous microscopic photographs of the grains of both black and white negative and colour transparency films are labeled with their film stock identification including the Fuji Fujicolor HR400, Kodak Ektar 25, and the Ilford HP5 plus, imbued with a romanticism akin to reading out the names of now extinct exotic birds in a natural history museum display. Fuji Fujicolor HR400, 400asa (Beyond Caring), 1984, from the series Films 2011 (1)
Special Exhibition Artist Denis Darzacq (France, 1961) Hyper, 2007-2010 Denis Darzacq explores the relationship between individuals and their urban environment for years. In the series Hyper, he confronts the body in full flow with the rigid, structured world of the hypermarkets. These shots result in images of bodies floating freely in front of racks of shelves. Their postures, defying the law of gravity, appear as a provocation in the ordered framework of these temples of consumption. Denis DARZACQ, Hyper20, 105×70, 2007, Galerie VU’ Paris France.
Ryan McGinley (USA, 1977) You and My Friends 2, 2012 You and my Friends reflects McGinley’s interest in his subject: over the last few years, he has turned his lens on his own generation – American post-adolescents. He has photographed them in their everyday lives, alternating between snapshots and staged poses. McGinley’s work particularly highlights the community spirit that characterises adolescence, both innocent and transgressive. Ryan McGinley, You and My Friends 2 2012
Jason Sangik Noh Almost all of his projects are based on scientific materials, medical/ surgical records, laboratory results, patients’own commissioned photographs and something. Working on the theme of ”CANCER”, he is also doing some documentary projects. Noh joined several group exhibitions so far and had his first solo exhibition at Artbit Gallery, Seoul, 2008. Noh was raised in Seoul, South Korea. Jason Sangik Noh, stomach
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DAEGU INTERNATIONAL OPERA FESTIVAL
D
aegu International Opera Festival marks the 10th anniversary this year. We've decided on the theme, "Opera, New Generation," and plan on using innovating techniques to produce some of the best Korean opera this year. We hope the process pays off and the audience recognizes the dedication and hard work put into making this year's festival a success. Daegu International Opera Festival has made rapid progress in establishing itself as a leader in opera festivals around the world. The Festival has elevated its status by hosting some of the most majestic opera performances during the past few years. The Festival has also successfully exported Korean opera performances and performers around the world. On June 30, we participated in the world famous music festival "Aspendos International Opera and Ballet Festival," in Turkey and performed La Traviata with great success. The world opera audience praised our directing, stage, costume and professionalism of vocal performers. We hope to continue to grow and lead Asia as the number one 10
opera festival. The festival begins on Oct. 12 and runs till November 10. Wagner's opera The Flying Dutchman will be performed for the first time in Korea with the original language. Wagner's opera shows high-level composition technique and there are only six performances in Korea, so many of Wagner’s lovers will visit the theater from all over the country. The Festival includes operas from all over the world which have elements of artistry and popular appeal due to working with the foremost opera organizations in the world like Wroclawska Opera Theater, Poland, Karlsruhe National Theater, Germany, Moscow National Chamber Opera Theater etc., and all members of the cast and crew from Germany, Poland, Turkey, Austria, Italy, Russia, Bulgaria, France, Japan, China, Taiwan, Spain, Georgia and Korea which total 14 countries. To celebrate its tenth year, the Festival unveils The Memory of Chungna Hill, which is based on Daegu life. The main program is
composed of great works like The Memory of Chungna Hill which is a life and love story of Tae-Joon Park, Nabucco by Wroclawska Opera Theater, Poland with 386 years long history and splendid tradition, The Flying Dutchman the historic premiere in Korea with native language, Don Giovanni in fantastic harmony by Italian production crew and Asian vocals, Carmen the serious French opera with dignified French musicians and overseas famous vocals such as tenor, Alfred Kim, Acis and Galatea Handel's classic opera. We have prepared various concerts such as the world famous soprano Youngok Shin's special concert, opera ensemble by Moscow State Chamber Opera Theater, Russia, Opera Festival Preview Event, an outdoor concert and closing concert to elevate the atmosphere of festival, and there will be plenty of special and side events. Plan ahead as many of these shows will sell out. We hope to see you at the 10th Daegu International Opera Festival!
DAEGU INTERNATIONAL OPERA FESTIVAL Nabucco Wroclawska Opera Theater, Poland / DIOFoc Oct.18(Thu.) 7:30pm / 20(Sat.) 3pm [Daegu Opera House]
Don Giovanni Daegu Opera House, Korea Nov.2(Fri.) 7:30pm - 3(Sat.) 3pm [Daegu Opera House]
La Traviata Aspendos International Opera and Ballet Festival, Turkey / DIOFoc Jun.30(Sat.) 9pm [Aspendos Ancient Theatre(Antalya)]
The Flying Dutchman Karlsruhe National Theater, Germany / DIOFoc Oct.25(Thu.) 7:30pm / 27(Sat.) 3pm [Daegu Opera House]
Carmen DIOFoc Nov. 9(Fri.) 7:30pm - 10(Sat.) 3pm [Daegu Opera House]
TICKET INFORMATION Tel : 053-666-6111, 6153 : Tickets : Interpark 1544-1555 http://ticket.interpark.com Ticketlink 1588-7890 http://www.ticketlink.co.kr 11
IT’S ALWAYS FRIDAY - RESTAURANT REVIEW
It’s ALWAYS FRIDAY Written by Brad Piepkorn / Photos by Ivan Broida
T.G.I. Fridays is
a franchise known around the world, with approximately 920 locations across 60 different countries, four of which are in Daegu. In case you aren’t familiar with the name, here’s a brief rundown. The first Fridays was opened in Manhattan in 1965 to fill a perceived void of places for young, single people to meet. Since then, the chain has been rebranded and its focus shifted toward a more casual, family friendly atmosphere. Despite these changes, the original emphasis on high-quality bar food and beverages has remained constant throughout Friday’s history. Friday’s new downtown location, opened on May 5th, is a bit
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more upscale than your average franchise restaurant. Upon entering Friday’s, you are greeted by a bevy of polite hostesses who will guide you to one of the countless booths, unless you prefer to sit at the bar of course. This Friday’s is huge, the biggest of all the Daegu locations. The décor is classic Friday’s– lots of dark wood, red upholstery, and contemporary wallpaper. There is also an eclectic mix of antique decorations including the characteristic propeller and rowing scull display on the ceiling to remind employees of the importance of leadership, teamwork, and success. The most entertaining piece of décor, though, would be the Nixon caricature statue at the bar.
IT’S ALWAYS FRIDAY - RESTAURANT REVIEW While this location sticks to the archetypal Friday’s atmosphere, there are some unique characteristics of the new location. The open kitchen, for example, is the only of its kind in the city. It’s also the only location with a happy hour, but we’ll get to that later. For special occasions, there exists a large party area which seats 35-40 people. The menu, which can be viewed online in English and Korean, contains most of the classics you know and love from home, and the quality of the food (and drink) is superb. We tried the four person “Love on Fire Set” for 110,000 won. This includes four ridiculously delicious components. The first is the 300g Australian striploin, grilled to order and topped with balsamic caramelized onions continued on p14
IT’S ALWAYS FRIDAY - RESTAURANT REVIEW Now, to the important stuff: Friday’s includes a very wellstocked bar in the center of the restaurant. The new location offers the famous and expansive “Ultimate Cocktail” menu. Why are they “ultimate”, you ask? Many of their cocktails are served in an 18oz glass and made with top shelf and darker liquors. There is also a good selection of foreign and domestic beer. Being the new guy in town, the downtown Friday’s is offering some promotions to gain new customers, and they are great. Until the end of the year, a thirsty patron can drink unlimited Ultimate Cocktails for an hour for 10,000won. Until the end of September, draft beers are only 1,000w. There are also the Friday’s specials: with a side of mashed potatoes and roasted vegetable blend of carrots, mushrooms, and green beans in rosemary marinade. Next are the Jack Daniels Ribs, a full rack of slow-cooked baby back ribs, accompanied by seasoned fries. You can then choose two of the following: Cajun Fried Chicken Salad (served with hot bacon dressing), Pane Gamberi Pasta (served in a bread bowl), or the Szechuan Seafood Rice. You can’t go wrong with any of them. Friday’s does much more than steak and ribs, however. They offer a slightly pricey but oh-soworth it Tex-Mex menu consisting of fajitas, quesadillas, and enchiladas, the quality of which is difficult to compete with. Foreigners on the lookout for an excellent burger are also in luck at Friday’s, and the delectable Friday’s burger costs only 14,000 won. 14
IT’S ALWAYS FRIDAY - RESTAURANT REVIEW
1st Friday of the month: Order a salad and it’s unlimited 2nd Friday of the month: Your 1,000 won beer is bottomless 3rd Friday of the month: 50% off ribs 4th Friday of the month: 2 for 1 Ultimate Cocktails If you’re looking for some familiar, high-quality food, Friday’s comes highly recommended. The location is great, the drink selection is wide-ranging, and the atmosphere is enjoyable. In there, it’s always Friday. The new location is open from 11:00am-11:00pm and can be found just outside of exit 2 of the Jungangno subway stop, above Mango Six.
THE AMAZING AGRICULTURE
THE AMAZING AGRICULTURE Written and photographed by Jennifer Chaussee
A
griculture is really interesting here because it crops up in the least expected places. Tiny family farms can be found under freeways or wedged between high-rise apartments and a triple-story McDonald’s. Just behind my neighborhood, which is comprised entirely of high-rise apartments and small family run businesses, there is a very tranquil man-made pond surrounded by a sufficient little irrigation system that feeds into a series of unexpectedly charming family farms. You can walk five minutes down the street and feel like you’re in the countryside, freed from the branding of the 재벌 (Chaebol), Korea’s elite monopoly companies. Then, not too far in the distance, you’ll see the KTX speed right by a cherry orchard. And if you turn your back to the pond, you’ll miss the mountains on the other side of the valley because more high-rise apartments block the horizon. This paradox between industrialization and tradition is the perfect focal point through which to examine Korea’s current state of existence. Forty-some odd years after the country began its rapid climb to success, there is still a very real tension between the old and the new. In the classroom, I see students
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come in with their eyes half opened and their feet dragging. As the world knows, they are tired. Korean kids are so tired. They go to school a lot. I mean, A LOT, and it’s worthy of the all caps. We’re talking eight hours of regular school followed by four hours of one academy followed by maybe two or three hours of another academy. Their schedules change every day, but they usually don’t get home until midnight or later. Like any other kid, they have
to take some time to themselves to wind down, which means they aren’t falling asleep until about 2 a.m., according to my students’ testimonies. The reason for this, as even the exhausted kids will aptly remind you, is because their parents have hammered the idea into their head that the country’s future depends on their ability to study hard. And it’s true- the future success of Korea does depend on
THE AMAZING AGRICULTURE the success of its future leaders. Korea is all about the bali-bali, or the hurry hurry. Everything needs to be done fast and with precision. Everything needs to be bigger and better and more electronic and more lucrative. People need to make money and invent stuff. Fast! This push into the future happens at break-neck speed. Businesses that can’t thrive in the environment are gutted and re-sold to the next entrepreneur in line. This usually happens overnight but in some cases it can take as long as three days (gasp!) to re-purpose a building. They waste no time putting a for-lease sign in the window. But as futureoriented as Korean culture can be, it is also rooted in tradition. Respect for elders and the Korean bloodline is paramount to the culcontinued on p18
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THE AMAZING AGRICULTURE people live in high-rise apartments and buy their food from markets or grocery stores. But agriculture has remained virtually stagnant when compared to the growth of other industries in Korea over the past 40 years. Because of the small size of the farms, farmers have not been able to utilize large industrial farming techniques popular for boosting productivity in large countries like the U.S., where major cash crops like wheat, soy, and corn are government subsidized by the bushel. ture, as is familial identity. School kids wear uniforms because of the traditional beliefs surrounding the collective image. There are also a lot of conservative beliefs surrounding personal relationships. Korean marriages are steeped with tradition and ideas about devotion. Women who marry the oldest son of a family are in for an especially demanding job, as they must host all of the main holidays, cooking and cleaning up after the relatives. For outsiders this seems sexist or backwards, but tradition lovers say it is just an act of selflessness. Selflessness and service are seen as ways to show respect and gratitude. Homosexuality, on the other hand, is out of the scope of society, either denied entirely or banned. It is still the status quo for women to marry young and raise children, though this is changing as more women are deciding not to get married. But the farms are my favorite example of the tug between future and past, because the farms refuse to give in to modernization. In all fairness, this is partly because they can’t. A long time ago, when Korea
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gained independence and began to work towards establishing itself, one of the first things the government did was parcel off bits of land to families so they could grow food for themselves. The land became the property of the families. As Korea progressed and built expansive cities, many young people moved into the cities to find respectable office jobs. Many families sold their farms to the Chaebol and other companies that built over the land. Now, most
The Korean government has also subsidized agriculture and continues to do so in hopes of raising productivity, but to little avail. While some modern farming techniques have kept agriculture on a steady climb, the domineering harvesting technique is still the farmer’s own two hands, and the seasonal help he gets from visiting family members and school children. Historically, lobbying groups have formed and protested every time the government has looked
AGRICULTURE into boosting imports of major foods from other countries in hopes of maintaining a food supply for the growing working class. During the U.S.’s debacle with mad cow disease, citizens created a boycott against the product. Many foreign food companies, like Dannon yogurts, are required to produce a certain percentage of the products they sell in Korea on Korean soil, using Korean milk products and Korean workers. Some say this has hurt Korea’s economic relations in the global market but it has also preserved traditional agriculture practices and a sense of domestic food pride and culture. Despite the fact that approximately 75% of Korea’s produce is imported, street produce markets dominate the landscape of rural and urban areas and these foods are often grown, picked, and sold sometimes within just a two mile radius. If Koreans want to eat local, it’s hardly a novelty. The local produce is abundantly available and usually at cheaper prices than the super market. That’s quite an accomplishment considering larger countries like the U.S. are having a whole host of social, economic, political, and health issues as a result of their dependence on imported agricultural technology, foods, and food products. But the concern that comes to mind when I look out into the summer-green rice paddies and lush rows of stone fruit is what’s going to happen when all the farmers die? The only people I have ever seen working on the farms are all elderly, their backs bent over from a lifetime of planting and picking and squatting. There have been efforts on the part of the Korean government to get young people interested in carrying on the agricultural legacy, but they haven’t been very wide sweeping. There are virtually no young people who are interested in taking over the family farm. When the older generation passes on, who will take up the burden of the country’s local food supply? If Korea’s dependence on imported produce increases, how will this affect their race to the top of the proverbial ladder that is the global economy? These are all questions that will have to stand the test of time and it will be interesting to watch the developments of Korean agriculture over the next twenty or so years. But as it stands today, Korean agriculture is one of the rare facets of traditional life that remains virtually unchanged.
DALSEONG DILEMMA
DALSEONG DILEMMA Written and photographed by Laurent Sewell
Conveniently centered near Seomun Market, Dalseong Park originates from an ancient earthen fortress established during the Bronze Age. Today, it serves as a historical learning site for youths and tourists alike, though the immaculate grounds are often host to senior citizens during most afternoons and weekends. A variety of tree and flower species dot expansive grass plazas, line the many walking trails, and cluster near vigilant statues and monuments. Spring excursions welcome backpack-clad kiddies, festivals showcase traditional music and dance, and families stream onto the premises during Children’s Day. But aside from the park’s outdoor splendors and historical tidbits, there lies a very surprising attraction: the zoo. And, yes, I’m talking lions, tigers, and bears.
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(Oh my!) Former Korean President Park Jung Hee, one of Gyeongsan Province’s own, wanted to add something special to his hometown district by incorporating a zoo within Dalseong Park. A year after the park opened, the zoo took off, exhibiting eighty-six species of animals, largely aquatic birds, but boasting its share of mammals, including wolves, chimps, and elephants. Sadly enough, the conditions were badly underdeveloped and, for forty years, have remained as such. Even stranger, the park’s entrance fee was abolished in 2000, cutting any means of public fundraising permanently. In the park’s defense, the zoo falls outside the normal regulations of systemized corporations because it is owned by the city, not a
private entity. Designed to mirror Changgyeonggung Palace’s zoo in Seoul, Dalseong has remained no more than it has always been: a historical site, not a wild animal reserve. As for the free entry, the city recognized the park as a place of exercise and education and decided it should be open to the public free of charge. But where does that put the animals? A recent campaign was to provide 8.6 billion KRW (about 7.5 million US dollars) for the park as part of a cultural restoration project, expenditure raised by the Korean government as well as Daegu city. Currently, funding has been revoked, a ramification on the park’s behalf for not meeting the project’s terms. According to Korean law, funding should be provided to a cultural asset alone (i.e. Historical Site no. 62), and
DALSEONG DILEMMA unfortunately, for grants to be committed, Dalseong’s zoo would have to have been adopted by a private company and relocated first. In other words, the zoo is not considered a cultural asset, and funding won’t flow until it is removed. As it turns out, there were no takers in Daegu, and park reconstruction remains in a state of stagnancy. Future plans, however, are looking bright. According to Dalseong Park Office manager Jung Suk Jang, motions for relocating the zoo permanently are still in effect. Once private owners strike a fair deal, funding for reconstruction on Dalseong Park as a historical site will return. It will take time and possibly more awareness, but the animals of Dalseong will find new homes eventually and hopefully for the better. For the
time being, you can visit the park via Seomun Station exit 5. Head north up Dalseong-ro and follow the brown, landmark signs, or hop on bus #300.
A special thanks to Ms. Jung Suk Jang, manager of Dalseong Park Office, and Ms. Sarah Lee of the Daegu Tourist Information Center for their time and knowledge.
NATURE IN THE CITY
NATURE IN THE CITY Written and photographed by Emma Thompson
W
hen arriving into Daegu one of the first land marks you notice is Daegu Tower, high on a hill. Duryu Park at its base, is one of the largest parks in Daegu, and is accessible from around the city by many buses and also from both Subway lines. The park is a great place for a day out with friends or to try a new sport. Cathedral Lake is a short 10 minute walk from the Daemyoung Subway station on the red line. Alternatively take the 618 or 706 buses from the Jungangno transit area downtown. Many trees surround the lake including maple, and weeping willow. In the spring it fills with blossom and in Octo-
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ber with lovely autumn colours. The lake is home to several a varieties of bird and marine life and some seasonal visitors; swallows and house martins dip and dive over the lake, daring each other to go lower still to catch the bugs skimming the surface. Wandering around the lake you will find local aficionados playing Baduk and other games, often with money riding on the winner. There are also several spots where small bands, saxophone players and karaoke will set up, gathering a crowd of onlookers. In the mountains behind the lake you might get lucky and see Korean squirrels scampering across the
trails. From the top you can see out over the city to Apsan. Nestling at the foot of these hills, across from the lake, is the Daegu Culture and Arts Centre and Palgong Hall. The centre is home to Daegu’s Symphony Orchestra, several of Daegu’s dance troupes, the choir and some Korean Cultural performance groups. The symphony puts on concerts with Daegu Choir and soloists once a month during the spring and autumn season. For 10,000-16,000w a ticket, this is a great experience to soothe the soul. To the East of the lake you will find Duryu’s two swimming pools, next door is the Judo Centre and opposite a bicycle and roller blade rental area and an inline skating park, which doubles as tennis and badminton courts in the morning. A trip to the swimming pools can be quite an event in itself. The park has two traditional pools, one outdoor, one inside, a children’s pool outside, and a diving area. The indoor pool is open from 6am and the outdoor pool from 10am in the summer. Nudity is quite normal in Korea, once the genders are separated, and many foreigners (myself included) can find the lack of personal space to be rather overwhelming. However I have to say everyone has always been very helpful and kind at the pool. Remember to take off your shoes before going into the locker
NATURE IN THE CITY
rooms, and store your towel and shower stuff by the pool while you swim, you will need to be dry before you come back into the locker room, or the cleaning lady will be on you in a flash, rolling her eyes and clucking. You will need a swimming cap in the pool. The pools are closed for cleaning regularly, which can limit your swim time so do some practice runs before you swim on a tight schedule. Before your swim everyone stretches together, so join in for your free warm up! For 3000w a swim it is great value and if you’re not a swimmer yet, just sign up for lessons. If you are more interested in soaking up the culture, head around the hill to the Kolon Outdoor Stadium where there are often free concerts with traditional Korean dancing, music and plays. This also doubles as an unofficial dog park during the day, but be sure to take your baggies and beware of some of the more exuberant pups. It’s a great grassy spot to head out to if you want to sunbathe or have a picnic with friends.The running track around the park is about 2km and most Koreans walk the track anti-clockwise. The Daegu Running Club often meets to run in the park. continued on p25
DIVERSE HORIZONS
A CELL PHONE PLAN YOU CAN TRUST WITH
DIVERSE HORIZONS Tony Marshall has always wanted to find a way to work with many different people from many walks of life. After living in South Korea for two years and working in a hagwon, he decided to expand its horizons, so to speak. He expanded his then-five-year-old business, a golf development company, into the global economy with telecommunications and healthy beverages. That’s how they got into the cell phone business. Diverse Horizons is an independent business partnered with numerous companies that want to help out foreigners (and natives) in Korea and 22 other countries. Their biggest service is helping foreigners get a cell phone in Korea; their reps are native English-speakers, once in the ESL shoes, so they know a thing or two about what life in Korea is like. Foreigners don’t need more complications when all they want is a good contract and reliable phone—that’s why their services are free, with no initial payment or deposit needed. They’re a direct seller of telecommunications, which makes them equivalent to phone shops throughout Korea that house all three telecommunication companies: KT, SK and LG U+. Here’s how it works: Diverse Horizons offers an initial consultation with you, the potential customer, either in person or via phone/email at any time. Their inventory site is in Korean, so they provide you with simple and detailed instructions. After that, they send the application (via email) to you, who then fills out the application and faxes it to the number provided (you should be able to fax from your job). For foreigners in Korea, the first purchase requires you to fill out a hand written application along with a copy of your Korean visa card. The process is simple and easy. In addition, any purchases made in the future from a registered customer can be done directly from their website, diversehorizons.acndirect. com. (Click on the South Korean flag at the bottom of the page.) If you have any questions or want to keep in touch, check them out on Facebook (facebook.com/diversehorizons) or follow them on Twitter (@diversehorizons). Though if you have any questions, it would be better to just call them at 010-5169-1914, or email them at diversehorizons@hotmail.com.
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NATURE IN THE CITY Easily accessed from the Green Line’s Duryu station is E-world (formerly Woobang Tower Land), now owned by Lotte and home to Daegu’s tower, you can scare yourself silly on the many roller coasters, or bungee jump from the tower. On the Duryu Station side of the park you will find the tennis courts, library, a baseball stadium, and a large outdoor stadium which sometimes hosts free concerts of K-Pop stars! Near the Duryu Station Park entrance is the Tourist Information centre. There are English speaking guides here who can help you explore Daegu and prepare to travel further afield. You can also find leaflets and maps in English, including a monthly guide to cultural events around Daegu. To contact the Tourist Information just call 1330 and ask for English.
continued on p27
SLICE AND DICE WITH MOO GUMDO
SLICE AND DICE WITH MOO GUMDO K
im Geunwoo's father didn't want him anywhere near a gumdo gym, yet that's where he has spent the last 17 years of his life. This was not necessarily a rebellious act by a misguided kid, but a passionate pursuit of the sport he fell in love with. His father, a gumdo trainer himself, hurt his best friend's back during a competition and handicapped him for life. After that, Mr. Kim's father gave all his money to his friend and forbade his son from practicing gumdo. But, before this terrible accident, Mr. Kim had seen his father, a government worker, spend a lot of money from his own pocket to train and feed kids from his neighborhood so that they could learn gumdo. Back then, he already knew that this sport would be his life. He went as far as to secretly work jobs just to make money to pay for gumdo lessons,
without his father's knowledge. The relatively small gym run by Mr. Kim has a full-size ping pong table that seems at odds with its surroundings. “The ping pong table was left here by the previous tenant. I wanted to get rid of it,” explained Mr. Kim, “but after
seeing how much the kids enjoyed playing with it before the class, I decided to keep it.” This relationship of harmony and respect was one of the things that led Mr. Kim to open his own gym. He enjoys the senior-junior connection that's made through gumdo and his students seem to feel at ease in the gym and around their instructor. The kids get to run around and play before the class, but become very different people once the teacher tells them to line up. Although the connection between the teacher and his students is palpably strong, Mr. Kim acknowledges that there is a more mundane, that is to say commercial, relationship that drives it. He has, however, met some of what he calls “real students.” His first “real student” used to be a bully in elementary school. He lived with his grandmother and his parents
26
SLICE AND DICE only saw him once a month because they were busy tending to their bar. One of the bully's classmates had a cast on her arm for a very long time. On the same day that the girl had the cast removed, this boy broke it again. When Mr. Kim found out about this situation, he canceled his class and had a talk with the kids. He made them all hit him, the teacher, with their wooden swords to teach them a lesson in humility and respect. None of the kids wanted to do it but in the end, accepted. When Mr. Kim took the bully home, the boy asked him for forgiveness. After that day, the boy never bullied anyone again and is now studying in a university in Japan. Another transformative experience that happened at Mr. Kim's gym was with an autistic child. The boy had a lot of problems adapting to school and basically shut down and shut out the rest of the world. His parents tried everything short of medication in hopes of improvement but everything failed. Finally, they took him to Mr. Kim's gym and through patience and hard work, the boy managed to whisper the word 'yes' after six months of complete silence. The boy stayed at Mr. Kim's gym for 12 years and is now the leader of his high school class. Seventeen years of teaching gumdo have allowed Mr. Kim to understand that the level is not what matters, but the process to get there. He has seen many kids that are naturally good at sports, albeit lazy, be surpassed by kids that are not so talented but become great by the sheer force of hard work and commitment. His role is to make sure that they all have a chance at becoming great, if they so choose to. Anyone (Korean or foreigner) with an interest in haidong gumdo or hapkido can sign up to take a class with Mr. Kim. His gym is conveniently located right outside Camp George's gate (taxi drivers should know where that is). Classes for kids, kindergarten-aged and up, start at 2pm, while the classes for adults start at 6pm and each lesson runs for an hour (although you may want to give yourself more time). The student fee, kindergarten to high school, is 100,000won a month plus registration, uniform, and equipment fees. The fee for adults is 120,00won a month plus extras. For more information, you can contact Mr. Kim's gym by calling 53-471-1175 or 010-5588-559. You may also email him at chals1129@hanmail.net.
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA
Seeing, Hearing and Speaking No Evil: On the Propaganda Tour in North Korea Written and photographed by Donald Kirk / Translated by Yujeong Lee
T
he skyline and traffic patterns of the North Korean capital of Pyongyang were not quite the same during my most recent visit in July as when I was last there four years earlier. This time, on a 12-day tour, I saw people preparing to move into their brand new homes in a row of glistening high-rise apartment blocks in the center of the city. There were jokes about electricity failures stopping elevators in the 42-story towers, but there was no doubt those with rank, privilege and connections were living fairly comfortably. Other signs of the times were a few traffic lights–though uniformed traffic ladies were still much in evidence–and occasional brief traffic jams. In my four previous visits, I don’t recall the tour bus ever having been delayed by other vehicles on mostly empty streets. 북한의 수도인 평양의 스카이라인 과 교통 패턴은 가장 최근에 방문했 던7월과 마지막으로4년 전에 방문했 을 때와는 꽤 달랐다. 12일 간의 이 번 방문에서 나는 도시 가운데에 있 는 반짝이며 높게 줄 지어 서 있는 아 파트 단지의 새집으로 이사가기 위 해 준비하는 사람들을 보았다. 전력 부족에 의해 멈춰선 42층 타워의 엘 리베이터에 대한 농담도 하고 있었으 나 지위와 특권, 연줄이 있는 그 사람 들이 꽤 편안히 살고 있다는 것에는 의심할 바가 없었다. 그 때의 또 다른 징조는 몇몇 신호등만 켜져 있었고 신호등과 –비록 제복을 입은 여자 교 통안내원들이 여전히 더 두드러졌지 만- 그 때문에 이따금씩 간단한 교 통체증이 생겼다는 것이다. 네 차례의 이전 방문에서는 투어버스가 다른 차
28
량들이 대부분의 텅 빈 거리에서 지 체된 적이 없었다.
Appearances of real change, however, might be deceiving. Crowded trams, made in East Germany years before the fall of the communist regimes of the old Soviet Union and its eastern Europe satellites, still lumber slowly beside avenues off which slum-like alleys run by decaying buildings largely hidden from view. Beyond the new apartment buildings, away from the avenues, people here as everywhere seem to be barely getting by. 하지만 실제 변화의 모습은 속임수일 수 있다. 구소련과 동유럽 지역 공산 주의 체제의 몰락 전에 동독에서 만 들어진 전차에는 사람들이 가득하고,
시야에서 거대하게 숨겨진 채 쇠락해 가는 빌딩이 가득한 슬럼가 같은 거 리 옆을 여전히 둔중하고 느리게 굴 러가고 있다. 새 아파트 건물을 넘어 거리에서 떨어진 곳에서는 다른 곳과 마찬가지로 사람들이 거의 지나다니 지 않는다.
Rushing to approved tourist sites, you can hardly escape the reality of a country riven by class and social differences–and the danger that eventually the have-nots will not be quite so submissive to the will of the haves. You hear no such counter-revolutionary talk, however, while still in North Korea. You’re blocked from making local phone calls to anyone but diplomats and representatives of international organizations. You have to deposit your cell phone at continued on p30
JEONGDONGJIN - A SEASIDE TOWN
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA the airport on arrival, retrieving it just before you leave. You can’t go on the Internet or receive email. Outgoing calls are extremely expensive, and presumably monitored, and you have to plan any itinerary far in advance. 승인된 관광지로 달려가면 계급과 사 회적 차이로 쪼개진 나라의 현실에서 거의 벗어날 수 없다. 또한 결국 가지 지 못한 자들이 가진 자들의 의지에 대해 그렇게 순종적이지 않을 것이라 는 위험에서도 말이다. 그러나 당신 은 북한에 있는 동안 그러한 반혁명 적인 대화를 듣지 않을 것이다. 당신 은 누구에게도 외교관과 국제 기구의 대표 외에 시내 전화를 거는 것을 할 수 없도록 저지당할 것이다. 도착한 즉시 공항에서 휴대전화를 맡겨 놔 야 하며 떠나기 직전에 다시 되찾을 수 있다. 메일을 받거나 인터넷에 접 속도 할 수 없다. 외부로 전화를 하는 것을 매우 비싸며, 짐작하건대 감시 당할 것이며, 여행을 시작하기 훨씬 전에 여행 일정을 계획해야 한다.
The rules are just as tough on foreign embassies and companies
as they are on short-term visitors. They’re unable to call even their own local staff members, all of whom are paid directly by the government, not their ostensible employers, and are assumed to inform for the multi-tentacle security apparatus. Much of the country, moreover, is closed to diplomats just as it is to short-term visitors. Diplomats when they do travel come back wondering about another issue–how long, they ask themselves, will people remain so supine, amenable to the will of the center, before they seriously complain? Nowhere, however, do you find the least sign of protest. 그러한 규칙들은 단기 방문자에게 힘 든 것만큼 외국 대사관들과 회사들에 게도 힘들다. 그들은 심지어 표면적 인 고용주가 아닌 정부로부터 바로 돈을 받는 모든 현지 직원들에게조차 전화를 걸 수 없고, 수많은 촉수를 가 진 보안 기관에게 전화 내용이 알려 질 것이라고 생각한다. 더 나아가, 대 부분의 나라는 단기 방문자들에게처 럼 외교관들에게도 닫혀 있다. 여행
을 하면서 외교관들은 다른 문제에 대해 궁금해하며 돌아온다. 스스로에 게 사람들이 심각하게 불평하기 전에 얼마나 오랫동안 아주 무기력하게 중 앙의 의지에 순종할 것인가? 그러나 어디에서도 당신은 항의에 대한 징조 를 절대 찾아볼 수 없다.
The contrast between life in Pyongyang and elsewhere is blatant. Cars are more common there than elsewhere, and most of the country’s one million cell phone users live in the capital and a few other major centers. The disparity between life in Pyongyang, population 3 million, and the rest of North Korea’s 24-25 million people is evident as you bump along cracked and buckling roads over mountains, sometimes stripped of trees, past farmland where bicycles and oxcarts are standard modes of transportation. The scenes appear deceptively bucolic–an image of how the countryside might have appeared a century ago. Corn and vegetables fill “private plots” around small homes fashioned from whitewashed cement, supplementing harvests from “cooperative farms” that never leave enough for the tillers of the soil who are supposed to get a percentage of the crops. 평양과 다른 곳에서의 삶의 대조 는 노골적이다. 자동차가 다른 곳보 다 흔하며, 무엇보다도 나라의 백만 명 정도의 휴대폰 사용자들이 수도 와 다른 몇몇의 주요 지역에 산다. 3 백만명의 인구가 사는 평양과 나머지 23-24백만의 사람들이 사는 나머지 북한 지역에서의 불공평한 차이는 산 에 있는 금이 가고 휘어진 도로를 따 라가다 부딪히거나 때로는 나무가 벗 겨진 것이나 자전거와 달구지가 운송 수단의 기준양식인 농경지를 지나치 는 것만큼이나 명백하다. 그러한 풍 경은 믿을 수 없게 전원적이다. 약 한
30
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA 세기 전에 시골이 어땠는지를 보여주는 이미지 같이 말이 다. 옥수수와 채소들이 희게 칠한 시멘트로 치장된 작은 집 부근의 ‘개인 토지’를 채우고 있고. 농작물의 일정량을 받아야 하는 토지의 농부들에게 결코 넉넉하게 남는 적이 없는 “협동농장”의 수확물에 대한 보충이 된다.
Black smoke spewing from dilapidated trucks powered by wood-burning stoves in the open rear cargo sections blemishes the impression of rustic simplicity. Guides ban photographs of these old wood-burners– they may be a tribute to ingenuity in a time of need but are still an embarrassment to a country that looks more like a backward third-world enclave than the regional power player fantasized by its leaders 뒤쪽 덮개없이 화물을 싣는 공간의 나무를 태우는 난로로 작동되는 다 낡은 트럭에서 피어 오르는 검은 연기가 시 골 특유의 소박함에 대한 감상을 망친다. 안내원들이 이런 낡은 나무를 때는 장치들을 촬영하는 것은 금지시킨다. 아 마도 그런 것들이 어려운 때의 독창성을 입증하는 것이지 만 지도자들에 의해 만들어진 지역의 군림자의 환상보다 는 여전히 퇴보하는 제 3세계 거주지 같아 보이는 나라에 대해 곤란함이다.
On the road to Hamhung, population 800,000, the country’s second largest city and main industrial center, near the east coast 100 miles northeast of Pyongyang, our guides–we call them “minders”– suddenly advise, no picture-taking. “This city was opened just two years ago,” a minder explains, and the city and region are believed to harbor too many tales of poverty and starvation from the darkest days of the famine of the 1990s when two million people died. Many, we hear, passed away here while an elite class of officials, their cronies and relatives close to authorities in Pyongyang clung to enough food and medicine to survive. 평양의 북동쪽으로 100마일 떨어져 있으며 동해 옆에 있는 북한 제 2의 도시이자 주요 산업 지역인 인구 80 만의 함흥으로 가는 중에 우리의 안내원이-우리는 “경 호원”이라고 부른다-갑자기 사진을 찍지 말라고 충고 한다. 경호원이 “이 도시는 겨우 이 년 전에 개방되었 습니다.”라고 설명했다. 그리고 이 도시와 지역이 200 만명이 죽은 1990년대의 기근의 암흑기 때의 가난과 굶주림에 대한 수많은 이야기를 품은 곳이다. 우리는 관리자의 엘리트층과 평양의 권력층과 가까운 친구들 과 친척들이 생존하기에 충분한 음식과 의약품을 놓치 지 않는 동안 이 곳에서는 수많은 사람이 죽어나갔다
고 들었다.
Hamhung was finally opened to occasional foreigners only two years ago, and the city’s decaying factories and decrepit apartments betray the hardships of people still struggling to recover. Inside the Hamhung industrial zone, an ancient narrow-gauge railway, a relic of the Japanese colonial era, is supposed to carry workers commuting to factories dating from the years after the Korean War when the city was pulverized by bombing. I see one train on a distant siding, but none is moving when we’re there. 함흥은 마침내 겨우 이 년 전에 가끔씩 외국인에게 개방 되었고, 도시의 다 쇠락해가는 공장들과 노후한 아파트들 은 이 전의 어려움에서 회복하기 위해 여전히 몸부림치는 사람들의 고난을 배신하고 있다. 함흠의 산업단지 내부에 는 일제강점기의 유물인 아주 오래된 좁은 궤도 철로가 노 동자들을 폭격으로 완전히 함흥이 파괴된 한국 전쟁 몇 년 후부터 존재해 온 공장으로 실어 날라야 한다. 나는 멀리 에 철로 위에 기차가 하나가 있는 것을 보았으나 우리가 그곳에 있는 동안 아무것도 움직이지 않았다.
Our minders tell us one of Hamhung’s main products
continued on p32
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA is a uniquely North Korean fabric called vinylon, made from limestone, but they don’t want anyone photographing the vinylon factory–whether because of the run-down look of its ramshackle old buildings or the presence of another factory in the complex that’s said to produce “machinery,” perhaps military hardware, nobody knows. 우리 경호원들이 함흥의 주요 생산품 중 하나가 독특한 북한의 섬유인 석 회석으로 만든 비날론이라고 이야기 해줬으나 아무도 비날론 공장의 사 진촬영을 하지 않기를 원했다. 금방 이라도 무너질 것 같이 오래된 건물 의 황폐해 보이는 모습 때문인지 아 니면 “기계류”를, 아마도 군수물품이 겠지만, 생산한다고 말해준 단지 내 의 다른 공장의 존재 때문인지 아무 도 모른다.
There is, however, one showcase–a fertilizer factory. Manager Lim Hung-nam skips the plant’s Japanese origins but says it produces 700,000 tons a year, maybe a third of the country’s needs. Another factory on the west coast, he says, produces 600,000 tons while aid, mainly from China, make up for the glaring shortfalls. Glistening machinery, some of it fairly new, testifies to the potential for other factories to shine as well. “All this equipment we made by ourselves,” says Lim. Asked whether “eternal” President Kim Il-sung or his son Kim Jong-il, now “eternal” general secretary of the ruling Workers’ Party and “eternal” chairman of the national defense commission, ever visited, he points at two bronzed tablets whose inscriptions testify to their “on-the-spot guidance.” 어찌되었든, 하나의 쇼케이스로 비료 공장이 있었다. 임흥남 관리자는 공
장이 일본인에 의해 만들어진 것에 대해 건너뛰었지만 북한에서의 수요 1/3정도인 연간 70만톤을 생산해낸 다고 말했다. 주로 중국에서 오는 원 조가 확연한 부족분을 보충해주는 동 안 서해안 쪽의 다른 공장에서는 60 만톤을 생산해낸다고 말했다. 몇몇은 꽤 새것인 반짝거리는 기계들이 또한 다른 공장들의 존재 가능성의 증거가 되었다. “이 모든 장비들은 우리 스스 로 만들었습니다.” 라고 관리자가 말 했다. “영원한” 김일성 주석이나 이 제 북한을 지배하는 노동당의 “영원 한” 서기장이자 “영원한” 국방위원장 인 그의 아들인 김정일이든 간에 한 번 공장을 방문해서, 그들의 “현장 지 도”의 증거가 되는 글이 새겨진 두 동 판을 가르켰다.
The deification of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il is so total that it’s not clear if third-generation heir Kim Jong-un, not yet 30, showered with all the requisite titles including “marshal” of the country, with no previous experience in governance, can or even wants to reverse the pattern. Life may be marginally more open than a few years ago, but you can’t talk
to ordinary people, and you can’t walk into stores or markets to see if the shelves are as empty as they appear from quick looks through the windows. 김일성과 김정일의 우상화는 매우 전 면적이어서 만약 30살이 되지 않은 3 대째 후계자인 김정은이 이전의 통 치 경험없이 나라의 “원수”를 포함하 여 모든 필요한 명칭이 주어질 지 그 리고 그러한 경향을 반전시키기를 원 하는 지 명백하지 않다. 몇 년 전보 다 생활이 미미하게 더 자유로워졌는 지도 모르지만 보통의 사람들에게 이 야기할 수 없으며, 선반이 창문을 통 해 잠깐 본 모습처럼 그렇게 비어있 는가 보기 위해 가게나 시장으로 들 어갈 수 없다.
Superficially, the North Korean media venerates Kim Jong-un in superlatives that place him on nearly the same level as his forebears while he pays lip service to the policy of songun, “military first,” often in fiery rhetorical blasts against South Korea. “If the U.S. side wants another war, they will have to sign a document continued on p34
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JAPAN - KYOTO AND NARA HISTORIC TOUR
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA lieved to want to bring about change, at least in emphasis. He is assumed to have been the one who convinced his father four years ago of the need for cell phones. Configured to make international calls impossible, they’re widely seen as a sign of the desire to modernize but not break with the past. Kim’s appearance with a mystery woman believed to be his wife at a performance featuring Walt Disney characters was shown by the North Korean media just as he faced the top military leader who owed his career to his father’s “military first” policy.
of surrender, not an armistice,” an army captain at Panmunjom, the “truce village” where the Korean War armistice was signed in July 1953, dutifully quotes the “supreme commander” as having said during a visit in March. “We should defeat them using the Korean style of repelling them.” 표면적으로, 북한미디어가 종종 남 한에 대해 강렬한 미사여구의 광풍 을 쏟아내는 가운데서 선군, 즉, 군이 먼저라는 정책에 대한 입에 발린 말 들을 하는 반면에 김정은을 그의 선 대와 거의 동급으로 올려 놓고 최고 로 숭배하고 있다. “만약 미국측이 또 다른 전쟁을 원한다면 그들은 휴전 이 아닌 항복문서에 서명을 해야할 것이다.” 판문점(1953년 7월 한국전 쟁 휴전협정이 맺어진 “휴전마을”)의 대위가 3월의 방문 동안 이야기를 하 는 동안 충실하게 “최고 사령관”을 인 용했다. “우리는 그들을 격퇴하는 한 국인의 방식을 사용하여 그들을 물리 쳐야 한다.”
At the base of the 150-meter-tall tower in Pyongyang honoring juche, “self-reliance,” symbol34
ized by a hammer, a sickle and a writing brush on top, a woman explains its significance in terms of “threats” by the country’s enemies, the United States, South Korea and Japan, which ruled the Korean peninsula as a colony for 35 years before the Japanese surrender in 1945. “Our goal is to keep our sovereignty,” she says. “By investing in the economy we could be better off, but to be independent is more important.” 망치, 낫 그리고 제일 꼭대기에 있는 붓이 형상화하는 주체,”스스로에 대 한 의지를 기리는 평양의150m짜리 탑의 맨 아래 부분에서 한 여성이 북 한의 적인 미국, 남한 그리고 1945년 일본이 항복할 때까지 35년간 한반도 를 지배한 일본에 의한 “위협”이란 용 어의 중요성을 설명했다. “우리의 목 표는 우리의 자주권을 지키는 것이 다.”, “경제에 대한 투자를 통해 우리 는 더 나아질 수 있으나 독립적인 것 이 더 중요하다”라고 그녀가 말했다.
No one in North Korea would dare question that principle openly, but Kim Jong-un is be-
북한의 누구도 감이 그 원칙에 대해 터 놓고 질문하지 않을 것이다. 하지 만 김정은은 적어도 강조를 해서, 변 화를 가져오고 싶어한다고 믿어지고 있다. 그는 4년 전에 휴대전화의 필 요성에 대해 그의 아버지를 설득시킨 사람이라고 추정되고 있다. 국제전화 는 불가능하도록 설정되었으나 넓은 의미에서 현대화에 대한 욕구의 신 호, 하지만 과거와의 청산은 아닌 신 호로 보여졌다. 월트 디즈니의 캐릭 터가 나오는 공연에서 김정은의 아내 로 여겨지는 의문의 여인과 함께한 김정은의 모습이 북한 미디어에 의해 공개되었다. 그의 경력을 그의 아버 지의 “선군”정치에 빚지고 있는 최고 군사령관을 보고 있듯이 말이다.
Reportedly, conflict over economic policy was why General Ri Yong-ho was stripped of all his posts while Kim removed the armed forces from control over the economy. Could it be that the new leader by now is aware that life for many, even in the best of times, is harsh – and totally unbearable for those still dying of untreated diseases and starvation? Down the east coast, on the way to the Mount Kumgang tourist complex just above the North-
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA South Korea line, thousands of “volunteers” hunker over portions of a rusted single-track rail line, hammering at rocks for the rail bed. No modern equipment in sight. They’re dedicating their muscle power to restoring the line so trains can bring Chinese tourists to the Kumgang region. 전하는 바에 따르면 경제 정책에 대 한 갈등이 김정은이 경제에 대한 영 향력에서 무장세력을 제거하는 동안 이용호 장군이 그의 모든 지위에서 옷을 벗게 된 이유다. 새로운 지도자 가 이제 황금기에조차 많은 사람들이 가혹하게 살아간다는 것을, 그리고 완전히 여전히 기근과 병을 치료받지 못해 사람들이 죽어가는 것을 완전히 참을 수 없게 된 것인가? 저 아래 동해안쪽에, 남북 경계선 바 로 위쪽의 금강 여행단지를 가는 중 에 수천명의 “자원봉사자”들이 철길
의 토대를 위해 망치로 바위를 두드 리며 녹슨 한 줄의 철로선의 부분 너 머에 쪼그리고 앉아 있다. 현대적인 장비는 보이지 않는다. 그들은 철로 를 복구하여 기차가 중국인 여행객들 을 금강지역으로 실어올 수 있도록 육체적인 힘을 바치고 있었다.
Inside the Kumgang resort, at the foot of stupendous granitic peaks, the scene is one of desolation. Business shows no sign of recovering since South Korea’s President Lee Myung-bak four years ago banned tourists from entering from the South after a guard shot and killed a middle-aged woman who’d ventured from the tourist zone to gaze at the sunrise. A minder, normally polite and cheerful, rationalizes the incident on the grounds that the woman ignored shouts and a warning shot and was wandering toward “an army base.”
As for President Lee, he echoes the official North Korean media, declaring angrily, “I would like to kill him not by shooting him but with my bare hands.” 거대한 화강암 봉우리의 발치에 있는 금강 리조트의 내부에는 풍경이 황량 함의 하나였다. 보초병이 일출을 보기 위해 관광객 구역을 돌아다니던 중년 여성을 사살한 후로 이명박 대통령이 4년 전에 남한에서의 여행자들의 출 입을 금지시킨 이후부터 사업은 회복 의 기미를 보이지 않고 있다.
At the duty-free shop at the Kumgang resort, clerks hired on short-term contracts from China are more concerned by the lack of business, not politics. Sales, they say, range from slow to non-existent. What about those tourists whom North Korea wants to lure from China? Kevin Ho, the continued on p36
PROPAGANDA TOUR IN NORTH KOREA Hong Kong manager, smiles. “The Chinese don’t want to spend,” he says. “You’re the only ones here today.” 금강리조트의 면세점에서, 중국에서 단기 계약으로 고용된 점원들이 정 치적인 문제가 아니라 사업의 쇠퇴로 더 걱정하고 있었다. 그들이 말하기 를 판매가 저조한 데서부터 아예 없 는 정도라고 했다. 북한이 중국에서 낚아오기를 원하는 여행자들은 어떻 게 되었는가? 홍콩 매니저인 케빈 호 가 미소지으며 말했다. “중국은 돈을 쓰고 싶기를 원치 않습니다. 당신이 오늘 온 유일한 고객입니다.”
On the trail to Guryong falls, tumbling down one of Kumgang’s many rock faces, you see reminders of hero-worship of the Kim dynasty. Statements and blessings from “eternal” President Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il are carved for eternity into the granite, but Kim Jong-un goes unmentioned. One of our minders, in an unscripted break, explains he’s been “too busy” to make the trek. Is the new “supreme leader,” much overweight, suspected of being not physically fit for the hard two-hour hike to the falls? The minder prefers to go on defending the policies of the regime, arguing passionately that nukes and missiles are needed to stave off the constant threat of invasion by enemies near and far. 금강산의 수많은 암벽 중에 하나가 굴러 떨어져 내린 구룡폭포로 오는 오솔길에서 당신은 김씨왕조를 영웅 으로 숭배하는 경호원들을 보게될 것 이다. “영원한” 김일성 주석과 김정일 로부터의 말들과 축복이 화강암에 영 원히 새겨져 있으나 김정은은 제외되 어 있었다. 우리의 경호원 중에 하나 가 예정에 없던 휴식 동안에 그가 “너 무 바빠서” 이곳에 오지 못 했다고 설 명했다. 새로운 “최고 권력자”가 과
36
체중이라 폭포로 오는 2시간 가량의 힘든 하이킹에는 육체적으로 적절하 지 않다고 의심받는 것인가? 그 경호 원은 핵무기와 미사일이 도처에 있는 적들의 지속적인 침략에 대한 위협을 피하기 위해 필요하다고 열정적으로 논하며 체제의 정책에 대한 옹호를 계속하기를 원했다.
In Pyongyang, at the martyrs’ cemetery honoring those who died fighting with Kim Il-sung against the Japanese, an inscription reads, “The noble revolutionary spirit will live forever in the hearts of the people.” The cemetery memorializes each hero with a bust and an inscription on a slope ascending to a monument in red marble showing the victorious struggle against the Japanese. Far below, by the Daedong River, looms the spacious Kumsusan memorial hall where the bodies of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il rest in state. 평양에는 일본에 대항하여 김일성과 싸우다 죽은 사람들을 기리는 순교자 의 묘지가 있는데, 비문에는 “고귀한 혁명 정신이 인민들의 가슴에 영원히
살아있을 것이다.”라고 되어 있다. 이 묘지는 반신상과 일제에 대항한 영광 스런 투쟁을 보여주는 붉은 대리석으 로 된 기념비를 향해 위로 향하는 경 사면에 새겨진 비문으로 각 영웅들을 추모하고 있다. 대동강 옆, 저 아래에 널찍한 공식적으로 김일성과 김정일 의 시신이 쉬고 있는 금수산 기념관 이 흐릿하게 보인다.
During my visit, hundreds of soldiers file in columns through the cemetery. They’re 18 or 19 but look 12 or 13–the result of the pervasive hunger that has stunted the growth of much of the populace. Some grin as they stand in line waiting to bow before the memorial. A few wave goodnaturedly despite the presence of grizzled sergeants accompanying them. Judging from the appearance of these young soldiers, it’s hard to believe North Korea’s 1.2 million troops, many actually working on farms or in factories, not in military outposts, are ready or eager to fight another Korean War. The inherent tragedy is that of a country ruled by a regime that prefers to stage spectacles venerat-
NORTH KOREA ing the new leader and his forebears while wasting its resources on nukes and missiles. 내가 방문해 있는 동안, 수백명의 군인들이 열을 지어 묘 지를 통과하여 행진했다. 그들을 18-19세이나 북한 주민 의 성장을 저해하는 만연한 기아의 결과로12-13세처럼 보였다. 몇몇은 기념비 앞에서 절을 하기 위해 기다리는 줄을 서는 동안 활짝 웃고 있었다. 그들을 함께 온 반백이 된 병장의 존재에도 불구하고 몇몇은 친절이 손을 흔들었 다. 이러한 어린 병사들의 모습으로 판단하건대, 실제로 는 군사기지가 아닌 농장이나 공장에서 많이 일하고 있는 북한의 120만 군대가 또 다른 한국전쟁의 참전에 준비가 되었거나 참전을 하고 싶어한다는 것을 믿기 어려웠다. 내재된 비극은 핵무기와 미사일에 자원을 낭비하는 동안 새로운 지도자와 그의 선조를 숭배하는 장관을 벌이기를 선호하는 체제에 의해 지배되는 나라의 것이다.
Donald Kirk is a veteran correspondent and noted author on conflict and crisis from Southeast Asia to the Middle East to Northeast Asia. He has covered wars from Vietnam to Iraq, focusing on political, diplomatic, economic and social as well as military issues. 도날드 커크는 베테랑 기자이며 동남 아시아부터 중동, 북동 아시아까지 그 곳의 분쟁과 위기에 대해 유명한 저 자이다. 그는 베트남전쟁부터 이라크 전쟁까지 군사적 문 제뿐만 아니라 정치적, 외교적, 경제적, 사회적인 분야에 대해서도 집중해 담당해왔다.
He recently returned from Okinawa, Japan and is on the ground covering issues surrounding the construction of a naval base on Jeju Island. 최근에 그는 일본의 오키나와로부터 돌아왔으며 제주도 의 해군기지 건설을 둘러싼 이슈들로 뒤덮인 땅에 가 있 다.
He most recently published “Korea Betrayed: Kim Dae Jung and Sunshine.” His Web site is donaldkirk. com Contact him at kirkdon@yahoo.com. 가장 최근에 “한국의 배신: 김대중과 햇볕정책”을 펴냈다. 그의 웹사이트는 donaldkirk.com이며 kirkdon@yahoo. com 으로 연락할 수 있다.
Check out more engaging articles at http://www.thethreewisemonkeys.com
ALWAYS DOUBLE DOWN *Thursdays will now now feature feature pour your own pour your own Rum/Gin/Vodka Rum/Gin/Vodka for 6000 won. *We6000 handwon. you for the bottle and *We hand you you decide how the bottle and much to pour you how into decide your drink. much to pour into your drink.
SUNDAYS = OPEN MIC NIGHT TUESDAYS = 2 FOR 1 WING NIGHT WEDNESDAYS = QUIZ NIGHT DIRECTIONS : DOWN THE STREET FROM GALLERY ZONE : MAP ON P62 : TRAVELERSBAR.COM
DFFL - FALL LEAGUE
DFFL - FALL LEAGUE Written and photographed by Daniel Jackson
W
ith the summer coming to an end it will soon be safe to go outside and participate in extra-curricular activities and we are stepping away from the comfort of our air conditioners and gearing up for another season of flag football in Daegu. Since the fall of 2010, the Daegu Flag Football League has held its annual flag football season. Each season so far has been very successful and this year we hope to have another successful year. The 2012 season will open up with our registration night. On Friday, September 21st we will hold our registration night at Traveler’s Bar and Grill, which is located in downtown Daegu. The registration will be from 8pm until 11pm. If the registration dates or times to do not fit your schedule, then just let us know and we’ll be happy to get you signed up at another time. The registration night is a great opportunity for participants to come out and get signed up and meet and greet the league captains and fellow competitors. The season games will be played at Yeungnam University, which is located in Gyeongsan. Gyeongsan is just outside of east Daegu and with the expansion of the subway it should be more easily accessible. In the past we have had some questions regarding why we play outside of the city and answer to that question is quite simple. At Yeungnam University we have the opportunity to play on grass. Yes, that’s right! Grass! So, say good38
bye to that awful turf burn. The season will kick-off on Sunday, October 14th and we will play every Sunday after, with the season championship being held on Sunday, November 25th. All games will be played in the afternoons, so that will give you plenty of time to recover from Saturday night and make the trek out to Yeungnam. Please feel free to check out our 2012 league Facebook page for more info regarding the season and to ask any questions or express any concerns. In addition to our past 2 seasons, the DFFL has recently seen success in our first ever Daegu Flag Football Tournament. For the tournament, which was held in March, we invited teams from Bundang and Gwangju to Daegu to participate. Daegu, which had two teams represented in the tournament, took both first and second place with relative ease
and proved Daegu’s dominance in flag football in South Korea. We would like to continue to host similar tournaments for years to come, so stay tuned for more information. The DFFL would like to express our gratitude to all of our participants in the years past. Our first two years have seen our share of hitches, but your feedback and ideas have been instrumental in the league’s success. We have listened to you once again and will be making some changes to our rules this year. With the new rules we will likely see more competitive games and more scoring. Stay updated for more information regarding these changes. We are looking forward to another successful season! See everyone at registration!
Daegu Flag Football
SUMMER SHOPPING
OLYMPIC RECAP
OLYMPIC RECAP A Written by Will Thomas
s with most sporting events taking place in North America or Europe, it’s pretty much impossible to sit down in a bar and enjoy them mid afternoon on a Saturday here in Korea. More than likely it will mean a grudgingly set alarm clock to wake you up at 3am. Watching the Olympics here in Korea has meant doing some of this, however a lot of the events started pretty early and with a +8 hour time difference it wasn’t impossible to catch some of it before I passed out face down on my laptop.
As a Brit, I was naturally unenthusiastic and unexcited by the prospect of the London Olympics, especially being so far away from the preparations and the hype. However, as soon as I tucked into the opening ceremonies I changed my mind. In my opinion, the opening ceremony was brilliant. I’ve read mixed reviews of it, with complaints being that it was too British and irrelevant to the rest of the world with displays promoting the NHS (National Health Service) and a giant Voldemort versus Mary Poppins show down. There was even a huge baby, which according to
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commentary was being delivered by the NHS nurses. To me it was eccentric and strange while being exciting and beautiful, and David Beckham looked incredible as always.
Since then, I was glued to my laptop from about 9pm-2am watching event after event via various legal Internet streams. What is great about the Olympics
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is that you find yourself watching events you had no idea existed, and with that, cheering on the private schooled Olympian who was going for gold in Dressage (some sort of horse riding.) Now, Team GB (Great Britain) started off pretty slowly and my American co-worker made sure I
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knew it, as the USA was cleaning up the gold medals along with China. Even North Korea was something like 5th in the table, with Korea being 3rd or 4th. I was beginning to wonder if - despite throwing a great Olympics - the Brits would fail to show up. By the second week, however, there had been a complete turn around. BBC pundits were calling it a gold rush. Day after day, Team GB picked up gold in our favourite sports: cycling, sailing and rowing. I think we must have added some more rowing and cycling events
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this year just to keep us in the running. With the final medal tally in, Britain had smashed its previous
OLYMPIC RECAP count by 10 gold medals making it our best Olympics since 1908. In an effort to please my Korean co-workers who Britain had just over-taken in the medals table, I let them know that Korea was the most deadly of all the nations taking part. With Korea picking up most of its gold medals in sports designed around hurting people, this went down very well. However, the Olympics have not been without their controversies and scandals. First there was the great Badmintongate scandal of 2012. Eight Olympians had been throwing badminton games on purpose! Due to the badminton competition being done via round robin, certain teams were attempting to lose on purpose so as to avoid stronger competition
in the knock out round. People who had managed to get tickets to the badminton competition were being shown stunning rallies of up to 4 shots. I caught a bit of this and the players were missing and serving out on purpose, it was painfully obvious as well and they were deservedly disqualified. 8 players in total, from China, Korea and Indonesia had failed to show Olympic spirit! I’ve yet to bring this up to my co teachers, but I’ve been tempted. Next there was poor Korean swimmer Park Tae Hwan who twitched his shoulder and was accused of a false start. Due to the stress of this, people believe he was unable to rest properly before the medals heat and only got silver instead of gold.
My girlfriend, who speaks Korean, heard (on a fanatical religious radio station that her taxi driver was listening to) that Britain would no doubt be subject to God’s wrath because of what they had done to Korea’s swimming hopeful. Now it looks like 5 Cameroonians have disappeared from the Olympic village with reports that they joined the team just to get to the UK. Still, I think perhaps having to actively seek out the Olympics rather than just switching on the TV has made me appreciate them even more, and I can’t wait for the next one (not the winter Olympics, I don’t think Britain is very good at those made up sports.) Bring on Rio 2016!
BEHIND THE DECKS WITH LEWIS ANTHONY
Behind the Decks http://soundcloud.com/lewisanthony
An interview with Lewis Anthony
“Lewis Anthony aims to take electronic music aficionados on a sense-assaulting journey of long and textbook musical transitions through driving twists and turns-with a few ups and downs along the way. Lewis’s passion for music and exploration has taken him all over the world: from Europe, to America, to Asia. Today, he resides in Seoul, Korea.”
He’s been producing on and off for the last eight years, but it’s only within the last year that he’s been pushing stuff out to labels. “I spent a lot of time trying to distinguish what it was I wanted to create music wise. I didn’t want to rush into it. I wanted to thoroughly explore the whole spectrum of electronic music,” Anthony said. According to his online bio, Anthony aims to take electronic music aficionados on a sense-assaulting journey of long and textbook musical transitions through driving twists and turnswith a few ups and downs along the way. What is your definition of a DJ? A DJ is a person who tells a story with music. In order to tell a story well, a DJ is somebody who has to have an unparalleled passion for the music that they play. They have to continually evolve their sets to create new chapters.
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Who has influenced you the most? The people who have influenced me the most are the ones who kindled my passion for electronic music. The mammoth sets I used to witness by John Digweed in England, as well as the mix compilations he put together with Sasha, are really what whet my appetite. Also, the lesser-known Jonathan Lisle was a huge influence. He was a very technically gifted DJ who could put together the intricate elements of electronic music effortlessly to create something magical. What is your latest release? My latest release is an EP called Flatpack. There are two tracks on the EP: Galant and Vika Amon. Galant is a deep tune with grooving percussion and repetitive synths. Vika Amon is a deep,
hypnotizing, and building tune. They complement each other very well on the EP. Where can one purchase your music? My music can be purchased at many of the large online music stores including, Beatport, Juno Download, DJ Download, and iTunes. What were your impressions when you first arrived in Korea? When I first arrived in Korea, my first impression was that I was going to have to search for the music I was interested in. This was fine with me. It was what I liked to do. There were a few clubs, but I wanted a place that focused on the music rather than the décor. That place was Joker Red. Unfortunately it closed
BEHIND THE DECKS WITH LEWIS ANTHONY down last year. I was fortunate enough to hold down a residency there. How has living here influenced your sound? I wouldn’t say living here has necessarily influenced my sound, but it has helped it become more refined. I’ve become more determined to create something off the beaten track. What’s your most memorable experience behind the decks? One experience that stands out for me actually came about by chance. One Sunday morning, in the early hours, I turned up at an after-hours club to check out one of my friends who was playing there. I still had my records on me after playing a gig on the other side of the city, and I was asked to fill in for somebody who couldn’t make it. The place exploded as soon as I pressed play on the first track, and I didn’t get off the decks until 9:30 a.m. Who are your favorite DJs on the peninsula? There are a lot of talented DJs in Korea. East Collective was one of the first acts I encountered. Mang and Unjin, the guys who make up East Collective are good friends of mine and have done really well outside of Korea. The Sequential crew: Andy & Stu and raiCO, were the first guys I played with here in Korea. They are all talented DJs who know a great deal about electronic music.
How would you define underground music? The genres of electronic music have become so convoluted these days that so much is considered underground. I think the scene has gone in two directions of late. In one direction you have the popular scene where you can see a lot of crossover into the mainstream. In the other direction you have the underground scene. Underground music is music out of mainstream culture. What changes would you like to see in the scene? I would like to see more clubs in Korea taking risks with the types of music that they play. There isn’t much variety between an ever-growing number of clubs. Not to write off the scene here however, there are a few places that are willing to take a chance with underground music. And those select few really make the
scene quite special and diverse. Our Social Underground events at Exit in Hongdae are drawing some great artists and crowds, so the underground is thriving and intact. Is it difficult to manage your own bookings? Managing my own bookings means I have total control. There are no commitments. I can do things in my own time. So no, it’s not difficult. Why do you continue to play out? I continue to play out because I want to give something to people. I want to give them the opportunity to listen to something different and innovative. If they like what they hear, they can come and listen again. If they don’t, then there is no obligation. Fortunately, I always receive a lot of positive feedback when I do play out, so that keeps me going.
This column was published with the express permission of urbanEVENTS. www.samurai.fm/seoulvibes ~ seoulvibes@gmail.com ~ www.myspace.com/seoulvibes
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OH AHANA - RESTAURANT REVIEW
OH AHANA Written by Catherine Laws / Photos by Laurent Sewell
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estaurant owner, Moo Eun, wastes no time in telling his story of how Ahana came about and his passion for Indian cuisine. Originally from Haeinsa, Korea, and having spent seven years of his youth in India, Moo Eun is back living in Daegu and eager to share his love of Indian food. He tells of his recent visit to India to visit friends and spend time learning to cook the amazing curries and kebabs now available at his brand new restaurant. During his visit, he spent time at his friend’s organic farm, named Ahana. The good times and good food he enjoyed there made clear what the name of his first restaurant was going to be. Ahana’s flower logo is even inspired from the fields of sunflowers on the farm. 44
With floor to ceiling windows and tables spaced well, the overall interior feels open and modern. Of course, with touches of Indian here and there to keep with the cuisine. We began our meal with a traditional Dahl made with lentils and spices. This is Moo Eun’s favourite food especially since it is rated as the 5th healthiest food in the world! The balance of flavours are just right and perfect for a starter. The Kebabs come served on huge hanging skewers and certainly have a wow-factor. One is a Murigh Malay and the other, classic chicken tikka. The flavours of the Murigh Malay kebab have depth and complexity. The chicken tikka is simply the best I’ve had in Korea. The spices are strong, but not overpowering. When dipped
in the accompanying spicy mint chutney or cool yogurt dip, these kebabs become all the more explosive and delicious. At present, Moo Eun explains that the majority of food offered at Ahana is Mogul Indian food. This is the northern style of Inidan food the western world is most familiar with: chicken tikka, butter chicken, and the like. However, Moo Eun has much bigger plans for his future menu and is soon to offer Dosa Indian food. Dosas are an Indian street food which is becoming particularly popular in the states as well as other Indian restaurants around the world. It is a crepe traditionally filled with massala, lentils, or beans. There are hundreds of variations however, and Moo Eun hopes to bring a chef from India, specialising in
OH AHANA - RESTAURANT REVIEW
Dosas so that the people of Daegu can experience this authentic and unique Indian cuisine. All in all, Ahana offers a refreshing take on Indian dishes, inspired by the northern style. Located at Suseong Lake, you can get there by taking the left between Starbucks and Angel-in-us Coffee. Follow the road to the left until you get to a roundabout. Ahana is located half way round on the left.
THE OTHER MONGOLIA
the other Mongolia Written and photographed by Asif Quadri
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he first places in China people will visit are Beijing and Shanghai. However, China is a vast country the size of the US, with multiple time zones, and home to 57 officially recognized minorities. The Great Wall was designed to separate the heartland from border provinces, yet here we discover a rich cultural heritage distinct from what we know of mainland China. Last Chuseok, I chose to go to Inner Mongolia Province China. Confusingly there are two Mongolia's, the country of Mongolia and the Chinese Province Inner Mongolia bordering the country to the south. I first learnt about the province when I was looking at teaching jobs, but the winters
were too cold so I chose warmer Daegu. However, the curiosity remained as somewhere I still wanted to explore. Getting to the main city Hohhot is quite easy. Daegu airport has almost daily afternoon flights to Beijing. From there flights are almost hourly to Hohhot for another $80. For Chuseok I was able to catch a Friday night flight to Jeju then connect to Beijing. After a Saturday layover in Beijing I reached Hohhot on Saturday nite. My accommodation was with www.andaguesthouse. com which is friendly family run Mongolian guesthouse easy to book on Hostelbookers. Their home is Mongolian themed and they offer a selection of tours to continued on p48
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HAPPY TEETH - HEALTHY SMILE
THE OTHER MONGOLIA Outside the mosque vendors sell local mooncakes, a CD sized shortbread outer biscuit filled with raisins, dates, almonds, and nuts. The side streets also have local bazaars selling grilled kebabs, and whole roasted chicken with head and feet still attached. Monday/Tuesday I did the overnight grasslands tour with the hostel which was reasonably priced at $40. After driving for over an hour we reached the flat grasslands which stretch across the horizon. Wild horses roam and there are many traditional yurt tent communities. Lunch was with a local family who made a beef and noodle stew with many other dishes. After hiking and exploring the landscape we saddled up on Mongolian Horses and rode for another hour.
the grasslands, Gobi desert, and Great Wall. Sunday I spent exploring Hohhot City. The hostel will provide a city map showing the landmarks, bus stops and routes from the hostel. The town centre has several interesting temples rich in Tibetan style Buddhist culture. The Wu Ta (five pagoda temple) is more Indian style with rows of tiny figures carved into the outer wall on all sides to the top. Nearby DaZhao and XilituZhao Temples are more Tibetan style with
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hanging fabrics, wall art, spinning wheels, and home to communities of monks of all ages. Outside DaZhao Temple is a tourist market filled with Mongolian and Genghis Khan merchandise. A short walk north of the temples you can see Arabian domes in the distance. The city is also home to a Hui Muslim quarter, who are ethnic Chinese but follow Islam. They have adopted Arabian architecture in their district but the main mosque is traditional Chinese pagoda style except for a minaret.
After evening dinner with the family we collected dried cow dung to light a fire at sunset. It was very difficult to light due to the wind and it burns very quickly so no raging fires. However it was an interesting experience as the hosts sang traditional Mongolian songs as we huddled by the fire. Sleeping was in a traditional yurt tent. Sleeping bags and blankets are provided, and it had electricity for light and to recharge batteries. However, there is no running water so remember to bring an extra bottle for cleaning and some wet wipes. Watching the sunset it was surprising how noisy it is in the wilderness with the sounds of distant geese and horses grazing. The morning rooster call will awake you at first light. It was interesting
THE OTHER MONGOLIA watching the moon set on one side of the horizon while the sun rises on the other. Morning breakfast was again with the host family as we returned back to the city to shower in the hostel. There is an extremely large Genghis Khan Museum of Mongolian History in the city but it was closed on the day I visited. The Baitou Stupa is also a giant monument visible from the plane but only accessible by taxi. That evening the hostel had arranged a traditional mongolian hot pot dinner with folk singalong. If you can deal with the hassle of getting a China visa from Korea then visiting Mongolia province would be a really interesting experience to have and to share with your friends.
DAEGU MEDICAL TOURISM CENTER
대구의료관광종합안내센터
DAEGU MEDICAL TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER
Medi-City Daegu invites you to experience the best medical services. Medi-City Daegu, the hub of Korean Medical Tourism! Daegu is the representative ‘Medi-City’ of Korea. With 12 general hospitals, more than 7,500 medical specialists, high-tech medical equipment and advanced medical care, Daegu provides various medical services from basic health screening to complex specialty care at an affordable cost. At Daegu Medical Tourism Information Center, we strive to deliver the best healthcare experience to international patients and travelers by offering one-stop service.
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DAEGU MEDICAL TOURISM CENTER
Why patients choose Daegu. Leaping toward a high-tech medical industrial city In August 2009, Daegu was awarded the High-tech Medical Cluster Project by the central government, which is a national new growth engine designed to develop medical industry into a core industry for Korea. Daegu is making strides towards becoming an inteDaegu Medical Tourism Information grated medical industrial city Center [www.meditour.go.kr] for medical equipment, medi6F Daegu city Center, 11-1 Munhwacines, etc. dong, Jung-gu, Daegu, Korea Excellent medical service infrastructure
Tel. 1688-9977 Fax. 070-7006-1165 Email. Meditour53@hotmail.co.kr
Five university hospitals including Kyungpook National University Hospital, Yeungnam University Medical Center, Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center, Daegu Catholic University Hospital and Daegu Oriental Hospital continued on p52
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DAEGU MEDICAL TOURISM CENTER of Daegu Haany University; twelve general hospitals; six hospitals accredited by the Ministry of Health and Welfare; eleven special hospitals; and more than 7,500 medical specialists provide high-quality Western and Oriental medical services with the best medical care and high-tech equipment. Affordable cost and specialized medical fields recognized by the world Not only does Daegu provide the world’s best hair transplantation technique, but also proudly presents various other specialized medical services in areas such as health screening, oriental medicine, dentistry, plastic surgery, dermatology, obstetrics and gynecology, etc. Here in Daegu, visitors can experience the world-class health care at a low cost. Medi-City Daegu, providing the best health care service ever! Daegu ranked first among non-capital cities in the number of foreign patients visiting for medical treatment in Korea, and the patient satisfaction is very high as well. In addition, Daegu Medical Tourism Information Center offer professional assistance to international patients in various services as follows: - One-stop service from arrival to departure including airport pickup service, etc. - Priority reservations for international patients - Transportation provided for hospital visits - Interpretation service 52
DAEGU MEDICAL TOURISM CENTER available in various languages including English, Chinese, Japanese, Russian, etc. - Medical results translated into mother tongue within 48 hours - Hotel reservation service available The center is located on the 6th floor of Daegu City Center along with Kyungpook National University Hospital Hair Transplantation Center, and the information booth is conveniently located on the 1st floor of Novotel Ambassador in order to provide medical tourism services while effectively promoting local medical tourism industry to international travelers. If you have any questions about Daegu medical tourism or local medical institutes, you can call us at 1688-9977 and our staff can help you in English or Chinese. Are you suffering from toothache, or having skin trouble? Do you need a medical check-up? If you are in need of medical attention or consultation for medical services such as health screening, plastic surgery, oriental medicine, ophthalmology, dentistry, dermatology, etc., but worried about the language barrier and cultural differences, it’s time to call or visit Daegu Medical Tourism Information Center!
THE HUNT FOR FREEDOM
The Hunt for Freedom A Photo Scavenger Hunt Extravaganza Written and photographed by Jodi Nicolosi
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all is coming, and the school year has started again. We’ve all started teaching again, well, those that are teachers anyway. And now it’s time to get back into the swing of things. It’s time to fill our weekends with awesome fun plans and take advantage of the great weather that Daegu gives us this time of year. For a lot of new people starting their lives in Korea, and those that don’t know us, I wanted to let people know of a group here in Daegu called Dynamic Daegu. We are a task force that is part of a larger group called Love146 (check them out at www.love146. org). Their purpose is to combat child sex trafficking & exploitation and help the survivors of child sex trafficking and slavery. As a task force in Daegu, a group of nine teachers originally from all over meet up once a month to discuss pertinent information and talk about what is really going on with child sex trafficking in the world today. But to become a task
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force, we must pledge that we will raise $1,000 USD to give to the organization to help them fight the bigger picture while we continue to raise awareness amongst ourselves and those in our lives. Now, I know this issue isn’t talked about much, and google has a lot of information if anyone wants to dive into what this issue is all about so I won’t throw statistics at you. But I do want to inform you of a fundraising event that is being held on October 20, called The Hunt for Freedom.
This October, the Dynamic Daegu Love 146 taskforce will be holding an epic (let me repeat that for dramatic emphasis), an EPIC scavenger hunt called “Hunt for Freedom” that will be the photo scavenger hunt of all awesome scavenger hunts. And even if it isn’t as fun as I say it will be (though it will), you’ll still be helping an awesome cause by participating as the cost per group for entry (25,000 won) will be sent directly to Love146.org once we reach our $1,000USD fundraising goal. With a really huge thanks to many participating restaurants and cafes that have generously donated many awesome prizes, the first place group in the scavenger hunt will receive a prize package entitled: FANOID, or more cleverly known as: “Freakin’ Awesome Night Out In Daegu.” This will include generous gifts from our sponsor, Traveler’s Bar and Grill, where this epic scavenger hunt will start and end, as well as Lala’s café, the Holy Grill, Bunny’s bar and other awesome restaurants,
SCAVENGER HUNT bars and cafes in the area. You absolutely want to win this prize! Also, Traveler’s will have an after party with drink specials after the scavenger hunt for participating members. So even if you don’t win, it'll still be an awesome time! So check out the details below and please email us by October 12th at dynamicdaegu146@gmail. com to sign up immediately and/or to ask us any questions about the “Hunt for Freedom” scavenger hunt or about who we are, etc. I’m super excited to see you there! Let’s Hunt for Freedom on Oct. 20th, and do something amazingly fun for a really worthy cause! When: October 20th. Please arrive at Traveler’s bar and grill at 2:30pm to let us know you are there and ready to race. All members must be present at 3pm sharp to start the race. Where: The “Hunt for Freedom” scavenger hunt race will start at 3:00pm sharp at Traveler’s bar and grill and will end at 5:00pm sharp back at Traveler’s Bar and Grill. Who: Groups of four please! If you can’t get a group together, please email us and let us know you want to participate and we will place you in an awesome team. Anyone can race! How much: Each group of four will cost 25,000won per group. How to sign up: Email dynamicdaegu146@gmail. com with the subject Hunt for Freedom and with each member’s name letting us know you want to participate and we will respond with the bank transfer details. Once we receive the participation fee, you’ll be all set for the race! What’s the prize: The first place group will win the FANOID prize package! Each group member will receive a free full entrée and two free cocktails/beers at Traveler’s, gift certificates provided by Holy Grill, Lala sweet’s café, Bunny’s Bar, and MORE! So, you should be SUPER pumped about this! Sponsors: Special awesome thanks to Traveler’s bar and grill, Lala sweets, Holy Grill, Bunny’s Bar and many more for all donations for the first place prize!
YEONGCHEON
ATV AND CULTURE TOUR - ENJOY 1 NIGHT AND 2 DAYS STAY IN A TRADITIONAL KOREAN HANOK VILLAGE
23nd Sept.
Breakfast Art Village Lunch 10th Oriental Medicine Festival Back to Daegu
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22nd Sept.
Science Museum Korean Wine Making Check-in and Lunch at Hanok Village ATV TIME! Dinner (Korean Buffet) Observatory (nighttime)
ATV and Culture Tour Come Join us as we head to Yeongcheon for 1 night and 2 days to enjoy the beautiful countryside. Experience life in ancient Korea at a traditional Hanok village, don’t worry though, modern bathrooms and showers are available.
SIGN UP HERE http://www.daegucompass.com/yeongcheontour
EVENT CALENDAR
SUN
MON
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
SEPTEMBER 2012 This is an overview of our September events. For more information on events in our calendar, check out the next two pages or email : events@daegucompass.com. Please email us your event information by September 15th for our October 2012 issue.
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5th Daegu International Body Painting Festival@ Daegu Colon Concert Stadium(9.1~9.2)
2 for 1 Wing Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
Open Mic Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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Daegu Symphony Orchestra ‘The Romantic Music of Germany’ @ Daegu Culture and Art Center
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2 for 1 Wing Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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18 Moscow City Ballet ‘Swan Lake’ @ Daegu Opera House
Open Mic Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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2 for 1 Wing Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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30 2 for 1 Wing Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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Katharina Deserno & Nenad Lecic Duo Concert @ Suseong Artpia Wednesday Night Trivia @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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Wednesday Night Trivia @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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1 2012 Street Concert @ Boseong Art Center 5th Daegu International Body Painting Festival@ Daegu Colon Concert Stadium(9.1~9.2)
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2012 Street Concert @ Boseong Art Center
POUR YOUR OWN DOUBLES @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
13 Concert @ 20:3022:30 (Novotel Daegu Terrace Cafe)
Opera Festival Preview Event @ Suseong Artpia Open Mic Night @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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SAT
POUR YOUR OWN DOUBLES @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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14 358th Daegu Symphony Orchestra ‘BRAHMS Symphony No.1’ @ Duryu Park Outdoor Concert Hall
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2012 Street Concert @ Boseong Art Center
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10th Yeongcheon Oriental Medicine Festival @ Yeongcheon (9.19~9.23)
Wednesday Night Trivia @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
Concert @ 20:3022:30 (Novotel Daegu Terrace Cafe) 2012 Daegu Photo Biennale @ Bongsan Art Center, KT&G Building, Daegu Culture and Arts Center (Duryu Park) (9.20~10.28)
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Park la on’s JAZZ and STORY (Giovanni Mirabassi) @ Suseong Artpia
Concert @ 20:3022:30 (Novotel Daegu Terrace Cafe)
Andong International Mask Dance Festival @ Andong (9.28~9.30)
Wednesday Night Trivia @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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POUR YOUR OWN DOUBLES @ Traveler’s Bar and Grill
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EVENT CALENDAR SEPTEMBER 2012
Event Calendar SEPTEMBER 1 - 31 SAT-SUN 9.1~9.2 5th Daegu International Body Painting Festival
TUE 9.4 Daegu Symphony Orchestra ‘The Romantic Music of Germany’
THU 9.6 Katharina Deserno & Nenad Lecic Duo Concert
Time: 9.1~9.2 Price: Free Place: Daegu Colon Concert Garden Ticket: 053)760-1855 www.dibf.co.kr
Time: 19:30 Price: 10,000w Place: Daegu Culture and Art Center
Ticket: 053-606-6313 http://artcenter.daegu.go.kr
Time: 19:00 Price: A:10,000w / Student:5000w Place: Suseong Artpia Ticket: 053)623-0684 www.ssartpia.kr
TUE 9.11 Opera Festival Preview Event
FRI 9.14 358th Daegu Symphony Orchestra ‘BRAHMS Symphony No.1’
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Time: 11:00am Price: 20,000w Place: Suseong Artpia Ticket: 053-668-1800 www.ssartpia.kr/
Time: 19:30 Price: A:15,000w / B:10,000w Place: Duryu Park Outdoor Stadium Ticket: 053-606-6313 http://artcenter.daegu.go.kr
EVENT CALENDAR SEPTEMBER 2012
SEPTEMBER 1 - 31 Event Calendar Time: 19:30 Price: R:80,000w / S:60,000w / A:40,000w / B:30,000w Place: Daegu Opera House Ticket: 02-3463-2446
TUE 9.18 Moscow City Ballet ‘Swan Lake’
www.daeguoperahouse.org
Time: 9.20~10.28 Price: 7000w Place: Bongsan Art Center, Daegu Culture and Arts Center (Duryu Park) Ticket: 053-655-4789
SEPT-OCT 9.20 2012 Daegu Photo Biennale
http://artcenter.daegu.go.kr
Time: 9.19~9.23 Price: free Place: Yeongcheon Ticket: 054-339-7281 http://herb.yc.go.kr
Time: 9.28~9.30 Price: free Place: Andong Ticket: 054-841-6397 www.maskdance.com
Time: Every THU - 20:3022:30 Price: Free Place: Novotel Daegu Terrace Cafe Ticket: 053) 664-1169
WED-SUN 9.19-9.23 10th Yeongcheon Oriental Medicine Festival
FRI-SUN 9.28~9.30 Andong International Mask Dance Festival
THU 20:30-22:30 FREE Concert Every Thursday
http://www.facebook.com/ NovotelDaegu
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SAMSUNG LIONS SEPTEMBER SCHEDULE
SAMSUNG LIONS SEPTEMBER 2012 HOME GAME SCHEDULE
Photos courtesy of the Samsung Lions and iSportsKorea News Agency
SEPT. 1 SAT
SAMSUNG VS NEXEN
17:00
SEPT. 2 SUN
SAMSUNG VS NEXEN
17:00
The Samsung Lions are once again at the top of their game. Leading the league in the home stretch before the playoffs, after a rollercoaster of a season. Come join them for the last two home games of the season! Go Lions!
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DAEGU ART VENUES
How to > Get there bring the Compass with you and show the taxi driver your destination
This is a guide to all the art centers in Daegu. Various art centers play a range of art performances: from musicals, nonverbal performances, operas, and classical plays. Check out our event calendar on p57 for some of the events playing this month. 61
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64
65
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4
8
2
5
9 6
7
3
2. Ganga (Indian)
4. Pita Bono (Sandwich)
7. Japanese (Sushi)
3. Tasting Table (Italian)
1. Napoli (Italian)
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5. Business Bar
6. Bin (Italian)
9. Africa (Pasta & Coffee)
8. Hai Long Bay (Vietnamese)
Minature Golf
10. Long Bar
Cafe Francessco
La Bella Cucina (Italian) Dusan Ogori 두산오거리
Suseong Lake Suseong Land (Amusement Park)
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Carlo Italian Pasta & Wine (Italian)
New York New York (Steak)
Suseong Lake area is one of the classiest places in Daegu. A perfect date area. After taking your sweetheart out to a nice meal, I’d recommend Napoli, Ganga, La Bella Cucina or New York New York, take a stroll around Suseong Lake until you come upon the famous ‘duck boats’ and paddle your way into each other’s hearts. Next, swing by the minature golf course and Suseong Land. Thanks to the photogs who took the great pics you see here. Aygul Sarvarova, Jeremy Taylor and Chanel Barlow. Photos by Aygul Sarvarova, Chanel Barlow and Jeremy Taylor
Suseong Lake area offers a change of pace to the hustle and bustle of downtown. Suseong Lake also boasts an amusement park (Suseong Land) reminiscent of those carnivals you went to with your parents at the local fair ground. There’s something to be said when you are on the back of the seahorse with a safety bar that barely locks you in place as you float for a few brief seconds in mid-air before being plunged back down in your seat. Thrilling, exhilarating are just a few choice words to descrribe the experience.
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Seomun Market is Daegu’s biggest market. There are multiple areas dedicated to similar products. BARGAIN, it’s challenging, but fun. We hope you have an awesome time and try to enjoy and see as much of the market as possible. We would like to thank Dyren J. Billups-Adam for his photos of the different areas. Thanks bud!
6 7
1 Traditional Clothes, Souvenirs
5
2 3 68
Food Court
Knicknacks, clothes, food
4
Textiles, Blankets, Leather goods
Women’s Clothes
8
9 Wholesale Clothing
Parking Lot
Main Entrance (5min walk to subway)
Bargaining tip : Ask for a discount in Korean, “Gga Gga Ju Say Yo.”
to Seomun Market Subway Station
HOW TO ORDER FOOD An easy step-by-step guide on how to get food delivered right to your door.
How to Order Food Written by Brian M. Van Hise and Hyerin
Mastering food delivery by phone in Korea is not difficult. Think of all those dozens of restaurants that are just a stone's throw from your apartment. Get past the nervousness of ordering once or twice and you will see an entirely new world of dining possibilities open up before you. Step 1
Step 2 (Your Gu)
Step 3 (Your Dong) Step 4
XX구
XX동
서구
중동
동구, etc...
두류동, etc...
수성구
여기 (Yogi)
달서구 Step 6 (name your food) Food
상동
Quantity
불고기 (bulgogi)
Street number + Building name + Apt Number
월성동
Step 7 (quantity) 하나랑 (1) hana rang
Step 8 (drinks)
세개 (3) say gay
맥주 (beer)
김밥 (kimbap)
네개 (4) nay gay
오렌지주스 (O.J.)
만두 (mandu)
여섯개 (6) yeoseot gay
돈까스 (tonkkatsu)
Step 9
콜라 (cola)
두개 (2) do gay
다섯개 (5) daseot gay
-인데요 (in-dae-yo)
Beverage
김치찌개 or 된장 찌개 (kimchi or bean soup) 떡볶이 (tteokpokki)
Step 5
사이다 (cider)
가져다 주세요. (ga-joe-da ju-se-yo)
This is a sample conversation you might have when you order food. Try it out to get your favorite dish delivered right to your home. How convenient! Restaurant 여보세요 ( Yeobo say yo) You
You
여기 수성구 황금동 롯데캐슬 105 동 402호 인데요. (Yogi [insert your Gu, Dong, and You street address here] in-dae-yo)
자장면 하나랑 볶음밥 하나 가 져다 주세요. ( JaJangMyun hana-rang pokkeum bab hana ga-joe-da ju-se-yo) (One JaJangMyun and one fried rice, please.) 그런데 얼마죠? (keuh-lun-dae ul-ma-joe? “How much is it?”)
(My address is SuSeongGu, Hwanggeum-dong, Lotte Castle, Building Restaurant 네. 105, Apt. #402) (nay “all right/goodbye”)
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FARM SURF FIREWOKS
FARM, SURF & FIREWORKS Written and phoographed by Craig R. Gardner
S
aturday morning ( July 28) was a hot and humid morning but that didn't deter a group of beautiful (and I'm not joking) people from gathering downtown Daegu to head out of the city to experience the countryside of Yeongdeok and evening fireworks in Pohang. Organized by Daegu Compass as part of their monthly outings offered to explore Korea, the trip started auspiciously as everyone was ready to go at 8:00 a.m. We arrived at Nagarol traditional village and the scent of fruit filled the air. Armed with bags, we invaded a peach orchard and picked the sun ripened fruit with relish. While some members retired to the air conditioned comfort of the bus, others took a short hike to check out some of the restored traditional buildings in the area.
A lone mule was delighted to see many of us, as he ate our freshly harvested peaches with a toothy grin. Our lunch was taken at a local eatery and was a true feast with boiled chicken and veggies. Stuffed, refreshed and slightly
peach colored we returned to the bus to head towards the New and Renewable Energy Center. Surrounded by huge modern windmills, the center was truly wonderful. Especially appreciated was a science center with handson displays and explanations of the mills outside. A basketball hoop with air forced up through it was a dunkers delight as well as the comfort station with cool drinks and popsicles. The massive windmills silently turned as we noisily quenched our thirst. Needless-to-say, the beaches in the area were jam packed with people. We found one that was not so crowded and all rushed to cool our steaming bodies in the sea. Oh my goodness! The water was only a meter deep (about three feet). Every time we tried to go beyond the barrier to deeper water the lifeguards blew their whistles. Kneedeep frisbee, cool beer, napping in the sun and chatting occupied our time there before heading back to
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FARM SURF FIREWOKS
the bus to go to the firework display in Pohang. Being one of the most popular displays in Korea, the beach area was already crowded by the time we got there. The display was a bit in the distance; however, all around us were booth keepers selling everything from ginseng to rockets, wood carvings to frozen persimmons, foreign food to local herbs. The multicolored display lasted around a half an hour as the audience ate, drank and cheered in delight. Our trip ended back in Daegu around midnight with goodbyes exchanged as a tired group of travelers headed back to their respective homes. New friends, old friends, the wonderful guidance of Hami from Daegu Compass, our cheerful bus driver, country to city, orchard to beach...how can I wrap up this trip? It was simply PEACHY!
DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT GUIDE
Downtown Eats Drinks
&
Photos by Ivan Broida, Vacquer Richard, Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
The Daegu Compass and it’s volunteers have come up with this comprehensive guide to the bring you the best places to enjoy the night in beautiful downtown Daegu.
Bennigan’s
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053.424.8200 Everyday 11:30am – 10:30pm Western American Food
Berkeley
Map on p62
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053.421.8577 Everyday 11am-2am Pasta and Coffee
Bulzip
Map on p62
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053.257.2220 Everyday 11:30am – 10:30pm Samgyeopsal - thick slices of pork belly
Map on p62
Burnham’s Burgers \ \ 053.254.3320 Everyday 10:30am – 11pm Burgers and Milkshakes
Caliente
Map on p62
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010.8247.3939 Everyday 6pm – 4am Burgers, Mojitos, Wine
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Map on p62
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053.426.2268 Everyday 11am – 4am Mexican & Bar
Club That
\ Won’t break the bank \ Who cares, hav’n funz \ \ \ \ Millionaire Club
Map on p62
DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT GUIDE \ \
Havana 053-257-9007 12:00pm-11:00pm Pasta, Salads, Coffee
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The Holy Grill 053-255-4048 11:00am-10:00pm Sandwiches and Tex-Mex
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Hyundai Food Court Food Court B1 Open 10:30~ Close 21:00 Restaurants F8 Open 10:30~ Close 22:00 Food Court
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JJ’s Bar and Grill 010-4013-9879 Tue-Sun 5pm – Late Tex-Mex and Burgers
Map on p62
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KoKoChon
(꼬꼬촌)
Double cheese and ramen! Everyday 11am – 9pm Fried chicken and rice
Map on p62
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Lazy Diner
Interesting interior
Everyday 11am – 10pm Burgers and Breakfast
Map on p62
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Little Italia Chef studied in Italy.
Everyday 11am – 10pm Pasta and Wine
Map on p62
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Mies Container
Electronic music and Bacon Pizza Map on p62
Everyday 11am – 2am Pasta, Pizza, Salad
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DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT GUIDE
Mies Factory
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One of the busiest restaurants downtown. Everyday 11am – 2am Pasta, Pizza, Salad
Pan Asia
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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South East Asian Cuisine Comes to Daegu Everyday 12pm – 11pm Pad Thai, and other South East Asian Food
Quiznos Subs
Map on p62
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Near Banwoldang for all your sub needs. Everyday 11am-9pm Subs and Sandwiches
Map on p62
Samcho-(Shovel Samgyeopsal)
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053.252.1266 Everyday 3pm – 3am Samgyeopsal - thick slices of pork belly
Seoga & Cook
Map on p62
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053.254.9989 Everyday 11:00am – 11pm Korean Western Fusion
Seorae
Map on p62
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053.255.8970 Everyday 4pm– 4am Galmaegisal - Korean BBQ
TGIF
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Map on p62
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053.256.9707 Everyday 11am~11pm (order 10pm) Western Food
Map on p62
Traveler’s Bar & Grill \ 010.4591.4869 Weekdays 5pm–CL Weekends 12pm-CL Burgers, Hot Wings, Beer
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\ Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT GUIDE \ \
Camapkaha
9’s, 7’s ~ great beer!
Everyday 11am – 9pm Uzbekistan & Russian Food
Map on p62
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Vin
Great lunch specials Everyday 11am – 2am Pasta, Coffee & Desserts
Map on p62
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What!
Different flavored Samgyeopsal.
Map on p62
Everyday 11am – 1am Samgyeopsal - Korean BBQ
DOWNTOWN BARS AND CLUBS GUIDE
Downtown Bars & Clubs
Photos by Ivan Broida, Vacquer Richard, Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Daegu thrives at night. Downtown is loaded with bars and clubs to meet everyone’s drinking and partying needs. Challenge yourself and try out places you’ve never been.
Apple Lounge
\ Won’t break the bank \ Who cares, hav’n funz \ \ \ \ Millionaire Club
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Great interior and good drinks. Everyday 6pm – 4am Cocktails, Electronic music, Wine
AU Lounge
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Upscale and good for large groups. Everyday 6pm – 4am Bottle service, trendy
Map on p62
Billi Bow & Dart
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Lots of Dart Machines and Pool Table Everyday 6pm – 4am Western food, on 2FL of Lotte Cinema
Blue Ketchup \
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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053.286.1000 Everyday 6pm - 3am / Fri, Sat 6pm - 5am Korean fusion food
Bus Bar
Map on p62
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Theme bar, fun atmosphere. Everyday 6pm – 4am Korean fusion food
Champs Sports Bar
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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New bar in town ~ They came to play. Everyday 8pm – 4am Beer Pong, Darts, Air Hockey, Live Music
Map on p62
Communes \ Longest running bar in Daegu. A must go to. Everyday 8pm – 4am Beer, Trivia Night, Sports
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Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
DOWNTOWN BARS AND CLUBS GUIDE
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Flower Bar Apple is the best!
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Everyday 6pm – 4am Wine and Hooka Bar
Map on p62
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Club Frog
4am~headed to Frog? Everyday 9pm – 4am Hip-hop / Dance / Party
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com Map on p62
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Gold Label
Good for large groups who drink.
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Everyday 6pm – 3am Top 40 hits / Good Beer
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Go Go Party
Everyone’s favorite bag drink! Everyday 7pm – 4am Party / Hip-hop / Dance
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Club G2
Upscale club, 17,000w cover. Everyday 9pm – 4am Party / Hip-hop / Dance
Map on p62
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Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Club JEEEP 010.7527.4879 Everyday 8pm – 4am Party / Hip-hop / Dance
Map on p62
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Makgeoli
You should experience it once.
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
Map on p62
Everyday 6pm - 3am Traditional Korean Tavern
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DOWNTOWN BARS AND CLUBS GUIDE
MF Bar
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My Favorite bar ~ owners are cool! Everyday 7pm - 4am Darts / Music Requests / Cheap Booze
Old Skool
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Ghetto blaster!
Everyday 7pm - 4am Hip-hop / Dance / Pool
Club Pasha
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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3 : 1 Women to men ratio, always. Everyday 9pm - 4am Large Club / Banging House Music
Teum Lounge
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Classy lounge with a sexy, futuristic atmosphere. Everyday 7pm – 3am Electronic Music
Thursday Party I
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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The best of the best go here.
Everyday 7pm – 4am Beer Pong, Darts, Danc’n
Thursday Party II
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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053.252.1266 Everyday 7pm – 4am Beer Pong, Shuffle Puck, Darts
Urban Club & Lounge
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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Live Music on the weekends.
Everyday 7pm – 4am Live Music, Darts, Hip-hop
Who’s Bob
Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
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The Bob.
Everyday 8pm – 4am Beer Pong, Dart Machine, Pool
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Map on p62
Fuzz @ www.chrischucas.com
RESTAURANTS AROUND TOWN
Compass Connoisseur
Check out these other great eats around town.
Suseong-gu
Indian
Ganga - http://www.ganga.co.kr
A cuisine worthy of Shiva. This upscale Indian restaurant has great curries. There naan is quite exquisite as well. You can even order samosas! Wash it down with a nice mango lassi and you have yourself an aroma massage for your stomach! Check out the Suseong-gu Compass map on p65 for directions. Lunch : 11:30am ~ 3:00pm Last Order 2:30pm Dinner: 17:30 ~ 22:00 Last Order 21:30 Weekend Hours: 11:30 ~ 22:00
053.768.3610
Carlo Italian Pasta & Wine
Owner Giovanni Kim has lived and trained in Italy for 14 years. Mr. Kim can speak several languages including English and Italian. Trained as an Italian Chef. The menu is traditional Tuscan style cuisine; however special requests are available with 24 hour notice. Check out the Suseong-gu Lake Compass map on p66 for directions. Monday – Sunday: 11:30AM – 12:30AM Kitchen Closes: 11:30PM
Italian
053.781.5655
Kyungpook Uni. area
Indian
Indo Bang Rangi - 3F Restaurant
Sanjay welcomes you! Renovated and redesigned last year, this Indian restaurant is famous for it’s curries. The chef is from India and speaks English very well. Plus, he’s super friendly and will answer all your existential Indian food questions. The restaurant is located on the 3rd floor right across from Kyungdae Buk Moon (north gate). Check the Kyungdae Compass map on p64 for directions. 11am - 10pm everyday (except major holidays)
053.956.9940
Maya - 2F Restaurant
A wood-fired tandoor oven seeps into your senses as you enter the door to this fantastic Indian/Nepali restaurant. Relatively new to Daegu, about 2 years old now, this restaurant is a great escape from the retro-urban decor that most Daegu restaurants display. A cozy interior with exotic tapestries of the far east adorning the walls. Reasonable prices and great Thali sets round out this establishment. Check the Kyungdae Compass map on p64 for directions. 11:00am to 11:00pm everyday (closed Mondays)
Nepalese/Indian
053.214.1916
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HOTEL GUIDE
HOTEL HOTEL GUIDE GUIDE Welcome to the Daegu Compass hotel information guide. We will also be adding a guide about motels soon. Daegu is very spread out, and not all the hotels will be convenient for you. We hope our hotel guide will help you with making your decision on where to rest your weary bones for the night.
Downtown Area Hotels Novotel Daegu City Center Add : 대구광역시 중구 국채보상로 611번지 Tel : 053- 664-1111 Website : http://www.novoteldaegu.com Email : rsvn@novoteldaegu.com
Eldis Regent Hotel Add : 대구광역시 중구 동산동 360번지 Tel : 053-253-7711 Website : http://www.eldishotel.com/ Email : eldishotel@hanmail.net
Nam Gu Area Hotels Hotel the Palace Add : 대구광역시 남구 봉덕3동 688-1번지 Tel : 053-471-9911 Website : http://www.hotelthepalace.co.kr/ Email : no - online reservation system
Prince Hotel Add : 대구광역시 남구 대명2동 1824-2번지 Tel : 053-628-1001 Website : http://www.princehotel.co.kr/ Email : prince@princehotel.co.kr
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Near the nightlife Roomrates start at 150,000+ to 472,600+ won(10% vaT will be added) Fantastic all you can eat buffet!
Room rates start at 100,000won Close to Hyundai and Dongha Shopping
Near Camp Walker Room rates start at 99,000won Near Camp Walker Clean and Friendly
Room rates start at 105,000won Western and Korean rooms available
HOTEL GUIDE
HOTEL HOTEL GUIDE GUIDE Suseong Gu Area Hotels Daegu Grand Hotel Add : 대구광역시 수성구 범어1동 563-1번지 Tel : 053-742-0001 Website : http://www.taegugrand.co.kr Email : concierge@daegugrand.co.kr
Hotel Inter-burgo Add : 대구 수성구 만촌동 300번지 Tel : 053-6027-171, 173 Website : http://hotel.inter-burgo.com Email : feel20c@inter-burgo.com
Hotel Ariana Add : 대구광역시 수성구 두산동 200-1번지 Tel : 053-765-7776 Website : http://www.ariana.co.kr Email : arianahotel@nate.com
Dong Gu Area Hotels Hotel J’s Add : 대구광역시 동구 신천4동 326-1번지 Tel : 053-756-6601~10 Website : http://hotel-js.com/ Email : http://hotel-js.com/
10 min from Dongdaegu station
Room rates start at 240,000won One of the top hotels in Daegu
Room rates start at 330,000won Daegu Casino is open! Room rates start at 110,000won
Across from Dongdaegu station Close to Express Bus Station
Room rates start at 160,000won Walking distance to KTX & Express Bus
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FAR FROM THE TRUTH
FAR FROM THE TRUTH :P
Written by Kevin Coughlan
Glorious Victory in Euro 2012 North Korea has announced its glorious victory in the 2012 European Championships. Playing a revolutionary 0-0-0 formation, the North Koreans swept aside Italy, Holland, Portugal, Germany and Spain with a blistering aggregate score of 217-1. The Glorious Leader (who is only slightly less Glorious than the Supreme one who came before him and definitely no less important than the Almighty one who started the whole process of Korea, the world and evolution about 80 years ago) decided to give Spain a free goal when 50 to the good, as a gesture of solidarity with another country which has a completely false reputation for being utterly bankrupt and on the verge of famine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbagley
In the final against renowned European heavyweights Brazil – complete with star players Messi and Ronaldo – North Korea were indeed sorely tested before the late intervention of the late Kim Jong Il who popped up with a 4 second hatrick on his way to collect the Ashes at Wimbledon via the US Masters. Delighted with their 9th consecutive major football world trophy, the North Korean government has announced yet another victory parade in Pyongyang, to be conducted by the military just for a change. They apparently have not yet decided whether to refuse to enter future tournaments so as to give lesser nations a chance.
New 10 Commandments After the success of Christian theologians in proving that the Holy Mother is in fact Korean - and the resulting assumption that the universe was created some time after Korea was, in order to give Korea something to look at – new revelations have emerged that the original 10 commandments were deeply flawed and clearly were not the divine purpose of God. Henceforth the new laws to live by worldwide will be as follows: 1. Thou shalt have no other foods before kimchi http://www.flickr.com/photos/imcomkorea 2. Do not worship at the altar of false foods, especially not poreign ones. 3. Do not take the name of kimchi in vain, it must be held sacred and pure. 4. Remember to keep holy the kimchi day. Which is to say all of them. 5. Honour thy mother and father’s kimchi and rice. 6. Thou shalt not kill kimchi. Just bury it for months and then raise it from the almost-dead. 7. Thou shalt not commit adultery with other cabbage, lettuce or spinach. 8. Thou shalt not steal kimchi or rice. 9. Thou shalt not lie about thy kimchi consumption, but eat it steadfastly and true all the days of your life. 10. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbour’s wife. Everyone makes their own kimchi.
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